Tag: Types Of Fish

Wrasses are the most diverse family of saltwater fish you will encounter. Some are peaceful reef cleaners. Some are aggressive predators. Some bury in sand. Some jump out of tanks.

The word wrasse covers peaceful cleaners and aggressive predators. Know the species before you buy.

The word wrasse covers peaceful cleaners and aggressive predators. Know the species before you buy.

Table of Contents

• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums
• Introduction To Wrasses
• Classification
• Requirements And Temperament
• Types
• The Best 15 For Saltwater Tanks
• Other Types (To Avoid)
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Is the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Right for You?
• How the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts

Wrasses are one of the largest and most diverse fish families in the ocean. And among the most popular choices for reef aquariums. After running a 125-gallon reef tank and following the saltwater side of this hobby for over 25 years, I’ve developed strong opinions on which wrasses belong in a reef and which don’t. The reef-safe question is genuinely nuanced with wrasses: some species will eat the shrimp and snails you’re trying to keep, others are fine with invertebrates but will actively hunt flatworms and bristle worms. Some need a deep sand bed to sleep in at night. Most are persistent jumpers that require a tight lid. This guide focuses on 15 reef-safe wrasse types I’d personally recommend, with honest context on what “reef safe” actually means for each species.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums

The biggest mistake I see with 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariumss is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

Introduction To Wrasses

Wrasses is found throughout the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, though most available species come from the coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. For the most part, wrasse fish inhabit coral reef ecosystems, though the exact type of reef will depend on latitude.

Some of these wrasses are completely reef safe, while others is partially reef-safe or not reef-safe at all. For the purposes of this article, we will only be looking at those wrasse species that are completely and partially reef-safe.

Classification

Requirements And Temperament

Since there are so many species of wrasse available in the marine aquarium hobby, setting a generalization for care is not possible. Species, like the pygmy wrasse (Wetmorella nigropinnata), do well in nano tanks under 20 gallons while other larger and more active wrasse need much larger setups.

There is one general care requirement for these fish though, and that is that they need a decently deep sandbed. This is because most wrasses sleep in the sandbed; they will also use the sandbed to hide when stressed, which causes a lot of mysterious disappearances for hobbyists.

In addition to sleeping in the sand bed, some wrasses will excrete a mucus cocoon to sleep in. If they are visible in the tank at night, you may notice them perched in between or underneath the rocks in a trance-like state. As soon as the lights turn on, you may see some remnants of the cocoon sloughing off.

Wrasses can also be difficult to safely acclimate to a new tank, but they are hardy once established. These marine fish are notorious for carrying external and internal parasites, like flukes. Because of this, it is strongly recommended to quarantine them for several weeks before adding them to the main display.

It is also required to have a tight lid on the aquarium as these fish are master escape artists.

Types

More likely than not, you will want to add at least one wrasse to your aquarium. The problem is that some wrasse types need certain setups or diets and success will depend on the skill level of the keeper.

Here are the most common genera of wrasse to find in the aquarium hobby:

• Anampses
• Cirrhilabrus
• Halichoeres
• Labroides
• Macropharyngodon
• Paracheilnus
• Pseudocheilinus
• Pseudojuloides
• Wetmorella

Not all of these wrasses are entirely reef-safe, though. Some wrasses might leave corals alone but nibble at shrimp and other reef crustaceans instead.

The Best 15 For Saltwater Tanks

To help differentiate between the best 15 wrasses for saltwater tanks, we have created categories for fully reef-safe wrasses and partially reef-safe wrasses. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. If you like our channel, be sure to subscribe. We post videos every week.

Fully reef-safe wrasses is kept with corals and all invertebrates. Partially reef-safe wrasses is kept with corals but should be watched when kept with other invertebrates.

Fully Reef Safe

For the most part, the wrasse species listed in this group will not pick at corals or invertebrates. However, there is always the chance that your specific fish picks at them in your own aquarium.

1. Blue Striped Tamarin (Anampses femininus)

• Species Type: Anampses
• Scientific Name: Anampses femininus
• Size: 10 inches
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 120 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

One of the most expensive and challenging wrasse species, the blue striped tamarin is unmatched. These large fish turn from yellow to royal blue as you move from their head to their tail. All along the body, they have even more electric blue horizontal stripes, earning them their name.

Blue striped tamarins are collected from very exact locations throughout the Melanesia region of the Pacific Ocean. There, they feed on coral reefs in small groups. In the aquarium, they are entirely reef safe.

2. Flame (Cirrhilabrus jordani)

• Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
• Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus jordani
• Size: 4 inches
• Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 90 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Rare

The flame wrasse, also known as Jordan’s fairy wrasse, is a stunning red and yellow colored fish with extended feathery fins. These fish come from the tropical waters surrounding the Hawaiin islands, feeding on zooplankton and other invertebrates in the water column (Video Source).

Though their dietary needs are more specific than other wrasses, they are compatible with both corals and invertebrates.

3. Scott’s Fairy (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)

• Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
• Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus scottorum
• Size: 6 inches
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 90 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

Scott’s fairy wrasse is a whirlwind of vibrant colors. Though the variation of color changes based on where they originated from (most commonly Australia, Tonga, and Fiji), they have a silky green body that transitions into blue and red. The caudal fin is red and the dorsal fin may with yellow with a darker margin.

In the wild, these wrasses are mostly found on the outskirts of the reef which means that your fish might enjoy having some extra swimming space. Luckily, they are completely coral and invertebrate safe.

4. Red-Headed Solon Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)

• Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
• Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus solorensis
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
• Tank Size: 90 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

The red-headed solon fairy wrasse is aptly named after its orangey-red head at the tip of its light blue with cream underbelly body. This Indonesian species is sometimes compared to the blueside wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura) due to similarities in appearance, though they are two separate species (Video Source).

These wrasses are found in slightly deeper waters and will not pick at corals or invertebrates.

5. Yellow Banded Possum (Wetmorella nigropinnata)

• Species Type: Wetmorella
• Scientific Name: Wetmorella nigropinnata
• Size: 3 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 15 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

On paper, the yellow banded possum wrasse is a perfect species for nano tanks: they are smaller fish and not as active as other larger wrasses. However, they are extremely sensitive to changes in parameters and have a pretty exact diet. These fish feed heavily on live copepods, though most individuals can thrive with a selection of frozen foods.

This wrasse species is named after the bands at the front of their head and at the base of their tail against their red body. Yellow banded possums are described as cryptic and finicky as they are often hiding in the rocks or cruising for food.

These wrasses are completely reef-safe and will not eat invertebrates due to their small mouth.

6. McCosker’s Flasher (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)

• Species Type: Paracheilinus
• Scientific Name: Paracheilinus mccoskeri
• Size: 3 inches
• Origin: Indo-West Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon

McCosker’s flasher wrasse is a beautiful fish with an orange and red body and electric blue highlights. These fish are very hardy and active but will stay towards the bottom portions of the aquarium. McCosker’s wrasses are also very likely to take well to other wrasses, especially multiple females, making this species one of the more popular to breed.

For the most part, these fish will leave both corals and small invertebrates alone. There is always the chance that they’ll eat any worms or snails that they find, though!

7. Carpenter’s (Paracheilinus carpenteri)

• Species Type: Paracheilinus
• Scientific Name: Paracheilinus carpenteri
• Size: 3 inches
• Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

Carpenter’s wrasses are an extremely popular type of wrasse, largely due to their bright red and yellow colors. These fish do even better when kept in group settings, which can add tons of color and movement to the aquarium. It is strongly recommended to add females first and then a single male.

These wrasses are pretty good citizens of the tank and won’t pick at corals or invertebrates. As always, there is a chance that your individual Carpenter’s wrasse will pick, though.

8. Filamented Flasher (Paracheilinus filamentosus)

• Species Type: Paracheilinus
• Scientific Name: Paracheilinus filamentosus
• Size: 4 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

These fish are similar in color to Carpenter’s wrasses but are more uniform red. The filamented flasher wrasse, also known as the whip-fin fairy wrasse, also does well with a group of females but the order of addition is less important. Filamented flasher wrasses rarely pick at corals and invertebrates, so they is kept in most setups!

Interestingly, these fish have been known to hybridize with other species in the wild so it is recommended to not keep closely related species within the same tank.

Partially Reef-Safe

Wrasse species within this group should be expected to pick at smaller invertebrates and possibly even corals. There is the chance that they will behave in your tank, but caution is needed.

9. Yellow Coris (Halichoeres chrysus)

• Species Type: Halichoeres
• Scientific Name: Halichoeres chrysus
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
• Tank Size: 50 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Rare

The yellow coris wrasse, also known as the golden rainbowfish or canary wrasse, is a very popular fish due to its vibrant, uniform yellow coloration. This yellow wrasse is relatively hardy and prefers to be in communities with other wrasse.

Yellow coris wrasses will happily eat various worms, coral pests, and snails they find around coral reefs. Though they will keep corals untouched, they cannot differentiate between good and bad smaller invertebrates. This makes them partially reef-safe.

10. Melanurus (Halichoeres melanurus)

• Species Type: Halichoeres
• Scientific Name: Halichoeres melanurus
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 50 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon

The melanurus wrasse goes by a few names including Hoeven’s wrasse and tail-spot wrasse. These fish have all colors of the rainbow with horizontal blue stripes along their yellow-blue body.

This wrasse species is found around shallow reefs near Australia, Fiji, and Indonesia. There, they feed on small invertebrates among corals; in the aquarium, they leave corals alone but should not be trusted with smaller worms and snails.

11. Christmas (Halichoeres claudia)

• Species Type: Halichoeres
• Scientific Name: Halichoeres claudia
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 50 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

These festive fish from Fiji are named after their red and green color variations! Christmas wrasses, also called Claudia’s wrasse, are an easy and colorful wrasse species to add to the reef aquarium. They are also one of the more inexpensive species available.

However, Christmas wrasses are likely to eat smaller invertebrates like the rest of the Halichoeres species on this list.

12. Red-Line (Halichoeres biocellatus)

• Species Type: Halichoeres
• Scientific Name: Halichoeres biocellatus
• Size: 4 inches
• Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 50 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

The red-line wrasse is similar to the Christmas wrasse in color and size. However, these fish have a much darker base green color and burnt orange patterns instead of red; they are also slightly smaller and originate from more western waters around the Philippines and Japan.

These fish are found around the perimeters on the reef, in more open water. This means that they will prefer having some extra swimming area.

Though the red-line wrasse won’t eat corals, they will definitely pick at invertebrates they find in between the rocks.

13. Six-Line (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)

• Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
• Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
• Size: 3 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Rare

The six-line wrasse is probably one of the most well-known species of wrasse in the aquarium hobby due to its size, activity levels, and attractive appearance.

For a long time, however, these small fish were categorized as a nano species. Though they might look like they would fit perfectly into a small display, their demanding activity levels leave them needing a large tank with open swimming space and intricate rockwork.

Six-line wrasses are a bluish-purple color with six horizontal orange stripes that lead into their green tail fin. Though small, these fish are very active and can show aggression towards other wrasses. Because they are so small, there is less of a chance for them to eat any larger invertebrates in your tank, though they do favor copepods and bristleworms.

14. Eight-Line (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia)

• Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
• Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus octotaenia
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Rare

The eight-line wrasse is different from the six-line wrasse in terms of size and appearance. However, their temperaments is just as aggressive as their smaller counterparts.

The eight-line wrasse is slightly less popular due to its paler yellow and pink colorations and larger size. This difference of 2 inches also allows the eight-line wrasse to eat more invertebrates than the six-line, leaving urchins, snails, and bigger worms at risk.

15. Small Tail Pencil (Pseudojuloides cerasinus)

• Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
• Scientific Name: Pseudojuloides cerasinus
• Size: 5 inches
• Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 75 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

Small tail pencil wrasses are pretty rare to come by in the aquarium hobby (picture source). They’re a recent addition and not all of their behaviors and personalities are fully understood. Based on how other species within this genus interact with the reef, it is safe to assume that they are only partially reef-safe.

This wrasse species is named after its narrow body which ends in a proportionally small caudal fin. Otherwise, they have pretty basic red colors with a signature yellow eye. They are only found in the tropical waters around Hawaii but form a complex with other species in the Pseudocheilinus genus.

Other Types (To Avoid)

There are a few wrasses for sale that you will see at the local fish store that are very popular, but should be avoided for reefs. Here are a few below:

1. Bird

• Species Type: Gomphosus
• Scientific Name: Gomphosus varius
• Size: 11 inches
• Origin: Fiji
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

The bird wrasse is a beautiful and active wrasse fish that unfortunately gets large. It is not reef safe as it will happy consume any inverts it can grab and will also eat any fish that it can fit in its mouth. These are best for fish only for fish only with live rock systems. The bird wrasse is a hardy fish, just not appropriate for a reef tank. They are one of the few wrasses you can successfully pair.

2. Dragon

• Species Type: Novaculichthys
• Scientific Name: Novaculichthys taeniourus
• Size: 12 inches
• Origin: Fiji
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

A Dragon wrasse is an amazing fish to find at a local fish store. You see them in their juvenile form, which has a unique mohawk like fin on its head. They are cute, very active, and full of personality. Unfortunately they grow to foot long and will tear apart any invert in your aquarium. They are also disruptive to corals as they will move them and arrange rocks in the tank.

They also are one of the less hardy Wrasses you can purchase. Overall, a wrasse you should avoid unless you want to place them in a fish only or fish only with live rock system.

3. Leopard

• Species Type: Macropharyngodon
• Scientific Name: Macropharyngodon meleagris
• Size: 6 inches
• Origin: Fiji
• Tank Size: 90 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not available

The Leopard Wrasse is a beautiful fish that actually is reef safe, however, they do poorly in captivity. They are notoriously difficult to successfully establish in an aquarium. Many tend to die because they do not accumulate well to fish food. They also tend to get shipped with damaged mouths, which leads to their deaths.

Leave these Wrasses to the experts or in the ocean.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most reef-safe wrasse?

The Fairy Wrasses (Cirrhilabrus species) are widely considered the most reef-safe wrasses. They are peaceful, colorful, and completely ignore corals and invertebrates. Popular choices include the Carpenter Fairy Wrasse and the McCosker Flasher Wrasse.

Do wrasses jump out of the tank?

Yes, wrasses are notorious jumpers. A tight-fitting lid or mesh screen over the top of the tank is essential. Many experienced reefers have lost wrasses to jumping, especially during the first few days after introduction when they are stressed and exploring their new environment.

How big do reef-safe wrasses get?

Most reef-safe wrasses stay between 3 to 6 inches in length. Fairy wrasses and flasher wrasses are on the smaller end at 3 to 4 inches, while melanurus wrasses and leopard wrasses can reach 5 to 6 inches. Always research the adult size of the specific species before purchasing.

Can you keep multiple wrasses together?

Yes, you can keep multiple wrasse species together in a sufficiently large tank, 75 gallons or more. Avoid keeping two of the same species unless they are a mated pair. Mixing different genera, such as a fairy wrasse with a flasher wrasse, works well.

Do wrasses eat pests?

Many wrasses are excellent pest control fish. Six Line Wrasses eat flatworms and pyramidellid snails. Melanurus Wrasses consume bristle worms, flatworms, and small snails. Leopard Wrasses eat parasitic pyramid snails. They are among the best natural pest controllers in a reef tank.

Expert Take

Wrasses are one of the most useful families in a reef tank: active, pest-controlling, and visually dynamic. But many species become aggressive once established. The stocking order matters. Add your wrasse last and you will have far fewer problems than the keeper who added it second. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate. Wrasses are rewarding saltwater fish but require careful stocking order and appropriate tank volume. Not all are reef-safe with small invertebrates.

Hard Rule: Add wrasses last in your saltwater stocking sequence. An established wrasse will aggressively defend its territory against most fish added afterward. This is especially true of six-line wrasses and larger aggressive species.

The Reality of Keeping Wrasses

Wrasses are in constant motion during daylight hours, darting, hunting, and investigating every corner of the tank. A healthy, well-fed wrasse is one of the most entertaining fish in the hobby. But they eat heavily, produce significant waste, and require a varied, protein-rich diet to maintain their health and color long-term.

Is the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Right for You?

Before you add a 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
• You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
• You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
• You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariumss need tank mates that can hold their own.
• You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
• You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
• You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:

• You plan to add new fish after your wrasse is established. Introductions become difficult and stressful
• You keep very small, docile fish or ornamental invertebrates that certain wrasse species will hunt
• You want a low-bioload reef with minimal feeding requirements
• You are new to saltwater fishkeeping. Wrasses are best added once you understand marine water chemistry

How the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums stacks up against some common alternatives.

The 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

There are many, many more wrasse species that is right for your aquarium but these are just some of the most popular!

As behavior, tank requirements, and diet can change drastically from wrasse to wrasse, always make sure to research the specific species you plan on getting before bringing it home. Always quarantine your wrasses before adding them to your display since they are likely carrying internal or external parasites!

Tangs need large tanks, strong flow, and constant grazing opportunity. Every species on this list requires a minimum of 75 gallons and most need 125 or more.

If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

How Many Species Of Tangs Are There?

There are many species of tang available in the aquarium hobby but even more exist in the wild, amounting to almost 90 known species. Most of these species originate from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific, where they travel from reef to reef searching for algae to graze on.

These fish may also be known as surgeonfish due to the scalpel-like spine located at the base of their tails which is capable of inflicting some serious injury to predators. Some tangs are able to excrete venom from this scalpel while others are poisonous to ingest.

Requirements And Temperament

Tangs aren’t the hardiest of fish, but luckily, they’re not the most delicate either. With so many types of tangs to choose from, each list of requirements will be unique to the species.

In general, most tang species are more susceptible to disease than other standard aquarium fish. That being said, they can quickly bounce back to full health given the right attention and care. To keep your tang from getting sick, always allow at least a two-week quarantine period (I recommend longer) before adding it to your main display.

This display should be at least 70 gallons for smaller, less active types of tangs. Otherwise, these are very active fish that need both open swimming space and rockwork to graze on algae. They is kept at standard saltwater aquarium parameters:

• pH: 8.0-8.4
• Alkalinity: 8.0-12.0
• Salinity: 1.020-1.025
• Temperature: 72-82° F

Are They Aggressive?

More than likely, your tang will be aggressive. They are labeled as semi-aggressive saltwater fish, though they definitely have the ability to injure and kill other fish especially those that is similar in appearance.

Some types of tangs, like yellow tangs, are particularly known for beating up other fish for no reason at all. To help prevent this from happening in your own aquarium, it’s best to introduce a school of tangs together at once; it should be noted that aggression can and probably will happen in these social groups as the bigger and stronger fish weed out the weakest ones.

It is also recommended to add tangs as the last addition to the overall stocking list. This will allow other fish to establish a territory that they feel comfortable defending until your tang comes and tries to claim it as its own.

Though most aggressive tangs is dealt with, some hobbyists have had to rehome their pet fish because nothing was working to diffuse the behavior. Check out the video above from Reef Nerd for a good overview on dealing with aggression.

One of the best rules of thumb is to mix different sub-species of Tangs. Because they look different, they tend to not display as much aggression to tangs of the same species. I’ll explain the main species a bit later in the post.

Are They Easy To Keep?

In general, yes tangs are easy saltwater fish. As mentioned before, they is a little difficult to acclimate to the tank but will thrive if conditions are met.

Apart from possible aggression, one of the challenges to keeping tangs is keeping them fed. In established coral reefs, they will get most of their herbivorous needs from the rockwork. However, this will need to be supplemented with pieces of dried algae, algae flakes, algae wafers, and a high-quality marine flake or pellet.

This specialized diet is an additional cost but is necessary for the long-term success of the fish.

Types – The 4 Different Species

Tangs are broken down into 4 main species in our hobby. Each has different characteristics. They are:

• Zebrasoma
• Ctenchaetus
• Acanthurus
• Naso

Zebrasoma spp.

The Zebrasoma genus contains one of the most popular species of tang, the yellow tang.

These fish are categorized by their compact, flattened bodies and sail-like fins. They are some of the most desirable for the home reef system.

Ctenochaetus spp.

Ctenochaetus tangs are pretty easy to recognize from Zebrasoma species. These tangs have a more elongated body, with a curved dorsal fin and truncated tail.

Fish from this genus don’t tend to be as popular as those in Zebrasoma, but this group contains some recognizable faces like kole tangs. Some fish in this genus are also known as bristletooth tangs due to the teeth they use to scrape away algae from rocks.

Acanthurus spp. & Paracanthurus spp.

The Acanthurus genus has some of the less popular species while Paracanthurus has only one very popular species, the Dory fish.

These fish have wide, streamlined bodies for traveling long distances. In general, members of these genera grow to be considerably larger than Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus.

Naso spp.

The Naso genus has some interesting fish in terms of color, shape, and body ornaments. These fish also have a very streamlined, yet squashed appearance to them. They can grow to considerable sizes, making most species in this genus unattainable for the average hobbyist.

15 Different Species (With Pictures)

In order to understand the many different kinds of tang available in the aquarium hobby, we’ve compiled a list of the most popular species by genus. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. We go over in more detail in the blog post below:

1. Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens
• Size: 8″
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Yes

The yellow tang is an unmistakenly vibrant yellow. These fish grow to be about 8 inches and need a minimum tank size of 125 gallons with intricate rockwork for grazing on algae and for free swimming room.

Yellow tangs is kept in schools in large systems, but they have also been known to be aggressive to their own species as well as to similar-looking species.

Yellow tangs have a very large native range, primarily throughout the Pacific Ocean though they have been documented off the coast of Florida as well.

2. Purple (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurum
• Size: 10″
• Origin: Red Sea
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Yes

The purple tang has become a very desirable species over the past few years, reflecting on its market price. These western Indian Ocean fish are a beautiful velvety purple-blue with accented yellow tail fin; upon closer observation, some darker horizontal lineations are also apparent across the body.

Purple tangs can grow to be slightly larger than yellow tangs, reaching a maximum size of about 10 inches. They is safely kept with yellow tangs in a 125 gallon aquarium, though there may be some aggression from time to time.

3. Gem (Zebrasoma gemmatum)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma gemmatum
• Size: 9″
• Origin: Madagascar
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

Gem tangs, also known as spotted tangs, have a black body sparkled with small white dots and a flashy yellow tail, making for a jewel of the tank. Unfortunately, these fish are pretty difficult to come across and their extreme appearance can make them absurdly priced.

Otherwise, these fish require the same husbandry as both the purple and yellow tangs. Some hobbyists like to keep them in slightly larger tanks as they reach a mature size of 9 inches.

In the western Indian Ocean, these fish is very territorial and often lead completely solitary lives.

4. Sailfin (Zebrasoma desjardini)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma desjardini
• Size: 16″
• Origin: Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The sailfin tang is one of the largest tangs available within the Zebrasoma genus, reaching impressive lengths of almost a foot and a half, plus extra height for their tall sail fins. They is found from the eastern Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

The sailfin tang is aptly named as the dorsal and anal fins are greatly extended. These fish have simple brown, yellow, and white vertical stripes across their body with yellow fraying across their top and bottom fins.

Sailfin tangs are less aggressive than other tangs on this list, but they can still easily beat up similar-looking fish and other tangs. Because of their mature size, it is best to keep these fish in aquariums over 180 gallons.

5. Scopas (Zebrasoma scopas)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma scopas
• Size: 12″
• Origin: Indo Pacific
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

Scopas tangs are relatively plain in color with a half-light brown and dark black body, but upon closer inspection, have small iridescent spots all along their sides. These colors will change from their juvenile stage to adulthood, and can even darken or lighten due to stress or disease.

Though not as colorful, scopas tangs have nearly the same personality as yellow tangs. They can get significantly larger and max out at one foot, though this is uncommon in the aquarium hobby. Because of their adult size, potential aggression, activity levels, and herbivorous diet, this tang species does best in a 125 gallon or more aquarium.

They can regularly be seen in groups of 20 or more in the wild from the east coast of Africa to the western portions of the Indo-Pacific.

6. Black (Zebrasoma rostratum)

• Species Type – Zebrasoma
• Scientific Name: Zebrasoma rostratum
• Size: 9″
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

Even more devoid of color, the black tang makes a statement in its simplicity. These fish are silky black, with a sometimes lighter brown face; the scalpel at the base of the tail becomes extremely visible (as well as some unlucky external parasites, like ich). They are sometimes referred to as longnose surgeonfish due to their extended beak.

Surprisingly, black tangs are naturally occurring and originate from the eastern central Pacific Ocean, near the Marquesas Islands and Tuamoto Islands.

Black tangs can vary in aggression. It is best to give these 9-inch fish at least 180 gallons and it is even better if they’re the only tang in the tank and added last.

7. Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus)

• Species Type – Ctenochaetus
• Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus strigosus
• Size: 7″
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 70 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The kole tang is an attractive fish with several different common names including kole yellow eye tang, spotted surgeonfish, and bristletoothed tang. These fish have a brilliant yellow ring around their eyes and delicate stripes down their brown body. At full size, they can grow to be 7 inches.

Kole tangs are also named after their incredible ability to scrape away large amounts of algae from hard surfaces with their specialized teeth. In their native waters, these fish have been observed cleaning sea turtle shells throughout the eastern Central Pacific, even going as far as setting up stations for algae-covered visitors. In general, they are a solitary species.

These are one of the less demanding species of tang in regards to size, though they can still be aggressive to similar species. At least 70 gallons is recommended with a heavy herbivore diet.

8. Tomini (Ctenochaetus tominiensis)

• Species Type – Ctenochaetus
• Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus tominiensis
• Size: 6″
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 70 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

Tomini tangs are probably one of the least tang-looking fish on this list. They have incredibly slender brown bodies with yellow-tipped fins and a white tail fin, giving the appearance that they’re another unrelated species.

These fish are a small species of tang, growing to about 6 inches. They are native to the western central Pacific Ocean. While small, they are still advantageous herbivores capable of scraping algae off of most hard surfaces; they occur by themselves or in very small groups.

Due to their activity in the aquarium and green diet, they need a minimum tank size of at least 70 gallons.

9. Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus)

• Species Type – Paracanthurus
• Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
• Size: 12″
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Yes

The Hippo Tang goes by many names, including blue tang, hepatus tang, regal tang, and most of all, the Dory fish. These Indo-Pacific schooling fish are a brilliant blue with yellow pectoral fins and tail fin. For now, they are the only described species within this genus.

Blue tangs can grow to be a foot long and need 180 gallons at full size, though many hobbyists have successfully kept them in 125 gallons and up. Sadly, their fame has led to many poor conditions within the aquarium hobby. These fish are relatively hardy once established, but they can very easily succumb to ich and other illnesses when first introduced into the aquarium.

The biggest problem is that blue tangs are sold when they are only a couple of inches long, making it seem like they can fit into very small aquariums. Though they’re not the most affordable fish, many inexperienced hobbyists take on the challenge of raising a small blue tang. Within a year, these fish experience exponential growth and quickly become cramped on space.

At this point, they may injure themselves due to stress or they’re returned back to the aquarium store.

10. Powder Blue (Acanthurus leucosternon)

• Species Type – Acanthurus
• Scientific Name: Acanthurus leucosternon
• Size: 9″
• Origin: Indian Ocean
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The powder blue tang is a personal favorite. These fish are a delicate blue with black masking, yellow dorsal fin, and other whitish-blue fins. They can grow to be 9 inches long and require a 125 gallon aquarium.

Powder blue tangs are native to the Indian Ocean. There, they are found alone or in very large feeding groups; in the aquarium, they are best as the only powder species in the aquarium, excluding powder brown tangs as well.

11. Powder Brown (Acanthurus japonicus)

• Species Type – Acanthurus
• Scientific Name: Acanthurus japonicus
• Size: 8″
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The powder brown tang is very similar to the powder blue tang in appearance and behavior. These fish grow slightly smaller, reaching about 8 inches, but still need the full 125 gallons for openly swimming and grazing.

These fish are simple, yet complex in appearance. They have a mainly light brown body outlined in yellow, with margined dark fins and a bright tail fin. The dorsal fin has a streak of orange, contrasting with the rest of the body.

Powder brown tangs originate from the Indo-West Pacific Ocean around the Philippines and Ryukyu Islands. They are more often found in groups than powder blue tangs but still do best as the only powder tang in the tank.

12. Clown (Acanthurus lineatus)

• Species Type – Acanthurus
• Scientific Name: Acanthurus lineatus
• Size: 15″
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Tank Size: 250 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The clown tang is another one of the least-looking tang species on this list, but undoubtedly one of the most colorful. As their name suggests, these fish have alternating yellow, black, and blue stripes with an untouched white underbelly. Their mature size is about a foot and three inches.

These fish swim in schools around shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Though their diet is mainly made up of green, they do like to munch on meaty crustaceans every now and then.

For best results, clown tangs need at least 250 gallons to be kept in captivity.

13. Sohal (Acanthurus sohal)

• Species Type – Acanthurus
• Scientific Name: Acanthurus sohal
• Size: 16″
• Origin: Red Sea
• Tank Size: 250 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

The sohal tang is similar to the clown tang, just slightly less colorful. Instead of yellow stripes, these fish stick the basic alternating blacks and whites with some blue highlights. They have an attractive yellow tail fin for a needed pop of color. Sohal tangs grow to be about the same size as clown tangs as well and need a 250 gallon tank.

Interestingly, sohal tangs have a very limited natural range, occurring mainly in the Red Sea but extending to the Persian Gulf as well. There, they are pretty territorial and aggressive towards each other.

14. Naso (Naso lituratus)

• Species Type – Naso
• Scientific Name: Naso lituratus
• Size: 18″
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

Naso tangs are a favorite in the hobby, though importation is currently limited; trading Hawaiin specimens is highly regulated but others may be collected from farther out in the Indo-Pacific. There, they occur in small groups.

These fish have a very unique appearance with a smooth gradient from grey to yellowish-orange across their body. They can grow to be nearly two feet long, but rarely reach those sizes in captivity. Still, they need 180 gallons to comfortably swim and graze.

15. Unicorn (Naso brevirostris, Naso unicornis)

• Species Type – Naso
• Scientific Name: Naso brevirostris
• Size: 24″
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Tank Size: 360 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: No

There are two main species of unicorn you are likely to come across in the aquarium hobby: the bluespine unicorn tang (Naso unicornis) and the blue/short-nosed unicorn tang (Naso brevirostris). Both these fish have a silvery body and unmistakable horn that grows from the front of their face once they have reached about 6 inches in length.

The Indo-Pacific bluespine unicorn tang can grow to an impressive 2 feet and are recognizable by the bright blue margin on their fins. Due to their size, they should only be kept in public aquariums or in 300+ gallon home setups.

The blue/short-nosed unicorn tang originates from the Indo-Pacific and eastern central Pacific, with many individuals coming from Hawaii. This unicorn’s horn is slightly broader than that of the bluespine. These fish can also grow to be 2 feet long and need professional aquarium setups.

Which Is The Best?

Tangs are beautiful fish and you’ll probably want to get as many as you can to squeeze into your tank. Unfortunately, that isn’t possible unless you have a very large system. Instead, you will need to settle for one or two at the most.

But which tang will be right for your reef tank?

This largely depends on the size of the aquarium and the temperament of the other fish. A larger aquarium will allow for some of the bigger and more active species of tang while a smaller aquarium will greatly limit your choices. The aggression of other fish as well as of the tang that you want to add will also need to be considered.

It’s also worth mentioning that not all tangs are available or affordable for the common hobbyist. Some of these fish need to be specially ordered and trading bans can suddenly cut off supply.

Importation

Though aquaculture has come very far in recent years, a large portion of the fish available in the aquarium hobby is wild-caught. In some cases, these fish originate from utterly unique and delicate ecosystems that need to be preserved. This is the case for some Hawaiin tang species, like yellow tangs and naso tangs.

Early in 2021, Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources stated that harvesting permits could not be renewed and existing ones were no longer valid¹. This is surely a valiant effort for preserving natural ecosystems, but unfortunately, has had a detrimental effect on the availability of some Hawaiin species.

Luckily though, most of these species is found throughout other regions of the Indo-Pacific and might even be available as aquacultured. Currently, the main three tangs that are commercially tank bred are the Purple, Yellow, and Hippo Tang.

The Tang Police

When researching information about tangs, you’re bound to come across a term: the tang police. The tang police have been around since tangs were introduced into the hobby, and rightfully so.

As mentioned before, many tangs end up in unideal conditions. These are big, active fish that need big, open aquariums to swim and graze. Too often, tangs are sold as juveniles at very small sizes, making it easy to believe that they can comfortably fit into a smaller tank. This simply isn’t true as tangs can grow several inches in just a few months.

The tang police refer to members of the aquarium hobby, especially those participating in online communities, who insist on informing other hobbyists about proper tang requirements and prevent poor conditions from happening. There is some negativity that surrounds the title as many inexperienced hobbyists don’t believe the necessary requirements are entirely true and try to prove them wrong, but eventually fail.

If for anything, a lot is learned from the tang police. After all, we are trying to make our fish the happiest and healthiest that they can possibly be.

Final Thoughts

Kole tangs, blue tangs, naso tangs, purple tangs. There are so many tangs to choose from and each individual has their own behavior and specific needs.

For many years, these fish have been shoved into nano tanks without an established source of algae, leaving the fish to quickly outgrow their surroundings and starve. But given the proper care and compatibility, any tang will quickly become the showpiece of the tank.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

There are dozens of clownfish species and designer variants, and they are not all the same. Some are peaceful, some are aggressive, and some grow larger than most people expect.

Not all clownfish are Nemo. Some are territorial bullies that will own your tank.

Introduction to Clownfish

Clownfish belong to the Amphiprioninae subfamily within the family Pomacentridae. There are 30 recognized species and one genus (Premnas) reserved for the maroon clownfish. The most commonly seen in the aquarium trade are the ocellaris, percula, tomato, clarkii, maroon, and pink skunk. Designer variants extend that list significantly with selectively bred color morphs that have become a major segment of the captive-bred marine fish market.

All clownfish are sequential hermaphrodites. They’re born male. The dominant individual in a group becomes female. That female is always the largest fish in the pair, which is why the female in an established pair visibly outgrows her mate over time. If the female is removed from the tank, the dominant male will transition to female. This biology is what made the movie premise work: in a natural group, the death of the female would have resulted in the largest male becoming female, not a search for a new mate.

The relationship with anemones is one of the most misunderstood aspects of clownfish keeping. Clownfish evolved alongside anemones and benefit from their protection. But many tank-raised clownfish have never encountered an anemone and may ignore one completely, or host unusual substitute objects like powerhead intakes, wave makers, or even duncan coral. Don’t force the relationship. If it happens, great. If it doesn’t, your clownfish is fine.

Types of Clownfish

1. Ocellaris Clownfish (False Percula)

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion ocellaris
• Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
• Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Tank Bred: Widely available
• ASD Tier: Beginner

The ocellaris is the most widely kept clownfish in the hobby and the species that most people picture when they think of clownfish: bright orange with three white bars outlined in black. Tank-raised specimens are available from almost every source and are reliably healthy, eating prepared foods from day one. They’re peaceful with most tank mates, compatible with a wide range of host anemones, and adaptable to FO, FOWLR, and full reef setups.

At 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) they fit a 10-gallon (38 L) as a pair. They establish a small territory and stay there, which makes them excellent for nano reefs. A bonded pair will breed readily in captivity, spawning on flat rock surfaces near their territory. The fry are difficult to raise but it’s a fascinating behavior to observe.

2. True Percula Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion percula
• Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
• Origin: Western Pacific, Great Barrier Reef, Melanesia
• Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Tank Bred: Widely available
• ASD Tier: Beginner

The true percula and the ocellaris are often sold interchangeably, and for most practical purposes in a home reef, they are. The distinguishing features are visible up close: the percula has thicker, more prominent black borders around its white bars and a slightly richer, darker orange body. The percula also has 10 dorsal fin spines versus 11 in the ocellaris, though you won’t be counting those in a fish store.

Care requirements are essentially identical. The percula may host anemones slightly more readily than tank-raised ocellaris, and it tends to command a higher price. Both are excellent beginner fish. If you’re choosing between the two, let availability and price guide you rather than any meaningful difference in behavior or hardiness.

3. Maroon Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
• Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) females; males stay smaller
• Origin: Indo-Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L), 55 gallons (208 L) preferred
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Advanced

The maroon is the largest and most aggressive clownfish species. It belongs to its own genus, Premnas, which separates it taxonomically from all other clownfish. The female grows to 6 inches (15 cm) and will dominate any tank she’s in. Maroon clownfish are not a community fish. Period. They will intimidate, harass, and sometimes kill other fish that venture near their territory, especially other clownfish species.

In a dedicated system or a large tank with robust, similarly assertive tank mates, the maroon is stunning. The gold stripe morph is one of the most visually striking clownfish available. But buy one knowing exactly what it is. This fish defines the tank. Everything else gets stocked around it.

4. Tomato Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion frenatus
• Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

The tomato clownfish is red-orange with a single white bar behind the head. Juveniles have two or three bars that fade as the fish matures. It’s one of the hardiest clownfish available and adapts to a wide range of water conditions. The downside is temperament. Tomato clownfish are significantly more aggressive than ocellaris or percula, particularly females. In a 30-gallon (114 L) community reef, a dominant female tomato will harass smaller or passive fish. Put it in a tank where other fish can hold their own.

5. Clarkii Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion clarkii
• Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Indo-Pacific, Persian Gulf
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

The clarkii is one of the most anemone-compatible clownfish species, hosting a wider range of anemone species than almost any other. It’s a larger, more assertive fish than the ocellaris but not as aggressively territorial as the maroon or tomato. Coloration varies significantly: most are orange-yellow with three white bars, but regional color forms range from nearly all black to very pale yellow. Hardy and adaptable to most marine setups. A good choice for hobbyists who want a clownfish with a more noticeable presence in a larger reef.

6. Pink Skunk Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion perideraion
• Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
• Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

The pink skunk has a distinctive pale pink-peach coloration with a single white stripe running along the dorsal ridge rather than full bars. It’s one of the more peaceful clownfish species and less commonly seen in stores than ocellaris or percula. It pairs well with Heteractis magnifica anemones in reef setups. In a community tank with other peaceful fish, the pink skunk is an excellent choice. Its color is more subtle than the standard orange-white clownfish pattern, which some reefers appreciate for its uniqueness.

7. Saddleback Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion polymnus
• Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Available in limited quantities
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

The saddleback gets its name from the distinctive white marking that sits like a saddle across the back portion of its dark body. It’s less commonly available than other species but is hardy and adaptable when sourced from a quality supplier. The saddleback is more associated with bubble-tip anemones and Stichodactyla anemones in the wild. It’s moderately aggressive, between the peaceful ocellaris and the assertive tomato. A good mid-range choice for experienced hobbyists who want something less commonly seen in home reefs.

8. Ocellaris Color Morphs and Designer Clownfish

• Parent Species: Amphiprion ocellaris
• Size: Same as standard ocellaris, 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
• Tank Bred: Yes, exclusively
• ASD Tier: Beginner (care requirements identical to standard ocellaris)

Designer clownfish are selectively bred color morphs of the ocellaris (and occasionally percula). They are not wild fish, not genetically modified, and not inferior in health to standard specimens. They’re the result of breeding programs run by professional aquaculture facilities that select for specific color and pattern traits over multiple generations. Common designer variants include:

• Picasso: Irregular, asymmetric white patterning. Highly variable, no two are identical.
• Wyoming White: Almost entirely white with minimal orange, sometimes with faint color near the face.
• Black Ice: Dark body with white patterns. The black coloration replaces the orange.
• DaVinci: Complex, painterly white patterning across a standard orange base.
• Platinum: Nearly all white with minimal orange, often confused with Wyoming White but from different breeding lines.
• Snowflake: White bars spread and connect in irregular snowflake patterns. Common entry-level designer.

Designer clownfish are always tank-raised, always ethically produced, and always a better choice than wild-caught from an environmental standpoint. Care requirements are identical to the standard ocellaris. They command a premium price, which reflects the breeding program costs and the uniqueness of individual pattern variation, not any difference in care demand.

9. Fire Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
• Size: 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Central and Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

The fire clownfish is a rich, deep red-orange with a single white bar behind the head and dark coloration around the fins. Often confused with the tomato clownfish, the fire clownfish has a darker body and slightly different distribution range. It’s moderately aggressive, similar to the tomato. Best kept in a tank with fish of comparable assertiveness. It will host bubble-tip anemones readily in reef setups.

10. Cinnamon Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
• Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Limited availability
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

The cinnamon clownfish shares significant overlap with the fire clownfish in both appearance and taxonomy. It has a warm reddish-brown body with a single white head bar, black edges on the fins, and an aggressive territorial disposition. Not commonly available but worth seeking out for reefers who want something less frequently seen. Temperament is similar to the tomato and fire clownfish, requiring appropriate tank mates.

11. Sebae Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion sebae
• Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
• Origin: Indian Ocean
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Rarely
• ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

The sebae clownfish is a large, dark-bodied species with two white bars, a yellow tail, and orange highlights around the face. It’s less commonly available than other species and most specimens sold are wild-caught. Wild sebae clownfish have a mixed track record in captivity. They form natural partnerships with Stichodactyla mertensii anemones and can be aggressive in the aquarium. If available as a tank-raised specimen, worth considering for an experienced reefer with a large system. Wild-caught specimens require more careful acclimation and feeding patience.

12. Gold Stripe Maroon Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
• Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
• Origin: Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Advanced

The gold stripe maroon is a color variant of the standard maroon clownfish where the white bars are replaced by bright yellow-gold stripes. It’s visually one of the most striking clownfish available. The aggression levels are identical to the standard maroon. This fish will dominate any tank it’s in. In a large system with appropriate tank mates, it’s a spectacular centerpiece fish. Don’t keep it in a community reef unless you’ve planned the stocking carefully around its territorial needs.

13. Skunk Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion akallopisos
• Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
• Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
• Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Tank Bred: Available
• ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

The skunk clownfish is one of the most peaceful species in the family, more passive even than the ocellaris. It has a pale orange-peach body with a single dorsal stripe. It’s less commonly available in stores but is hardy and compatible with most peaceful reef tank mates. Well-suited to systems where a more low-key clownfish presence is preferred. It pairs readily with Heteractis magnifica anemones.

14. Orange-Fin Anemonefish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion chrysopterus
• Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Limited
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

One of the larger species in the genus, the orange-fin anemonefish has a dark body with two white bars and distinctive orange-yellow fins. It’s closely related to the clarkii and shares its wide anemone compatibility. Less aggressive than the maroon or tomato, more assertive than the ocellaris. Available periodically from quality marine suppliers.

15. Barrier Reef Clownfish

• Scientific Name: Amphiprion akindynos
• Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
• Origin: Western Pacific (Australia, Coral Sea)
• Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Tank Bred: Rarely available
• ASD Tier: Intermediate

The Barrier Reef clownfish looks similar to the clarkii but has a slightly different color pattern and distribution range concentrated around Australia’s reef systems. It’s one of the more rarely seen species in the trade. Hardy when obtained from a quality source, it’s a solid choice for experienced hobbyists who want a less common clownfish without the extreme care demands of some rarer species.

Clownfish Comparison Table

Tank Requirements and Care

Most clownfish species are hardy and adapt to a range of water conditions. They work in fish-only (FO), fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), and full reef setups. The minimum tank size for a pair of ocellaris or percula is 10 gallons (38 L), though a 20-gallon (76 L) gives more swimming room and easier water stability. Larger, more aggressive species like the maroon and tomato need 30 gallons (114 L) minimum, with 55 gallons (208 L) preferred.

Water parameters should be kept at: temperature 74 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 26 degrees Celsius), salinity 1.023 to 1.025 specific gravity, pH 8.1 to 8.4. Clownfish tolerate mild fluctuations better than most marine fish, which contributes to their reputation as beginner-friendly. That said, consistency is still the goal.

Clownfish establish territory and don’t venture far from the area they claim. A pair will stay near their hosting spot (anemone, coral, powerhead, or other structure) and defend it against fish that get too close. This makes them predictable and easy to observe. Feeding time is one of the most entertaining parts of keeping clownfish. They learn to recognize feeding schedules and will come to the front of the glass in anticipation.

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

Clownfish are one of the best entries into the saltwater hobby and for good reason. The ocellaris and percula are genuinely forgiving fish that will thrive in a well-maintained setup, stay in one spot so you always know where they are, and bring more personality to a 10-gallon (38 L) tank than most fish bring to tanks ten times that size.

Buy tank-raised when you can. Know the aggression level of the species you’re choosing. Don’t stress over the anemone. And if you want something unique, designer clownfish are worth every penny of the premium when you see an exceptional Picasso or Black Ice specimen in person.

For availability and quality sourcing, check Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both carry a range of clownfish species and designer variants and will tell you whether a specimen is eating before it ships.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.