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  • 15 Types of Tangs: The Reef Keeper’s Guide to Saltwater Surgeonfish

    15 Types of Tangs: The Reef Keeper’s Guide to Saltwater Surgeonfish

    Tangs need large tanks, strong flow, and constant grazing opportunity. Every species on this list requires a minimum of 75 gallons and most need 125 or more.

    If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

    If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

    How Many Species Of Tangs Are There?

    There are many species of tang available in the aquarium hobby but even more exist in the wild, amounting to almost 90 known species. Most of these species originate from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific, where they travel from reef to reef searching for algae to graze on.

    These fish may also be known as surgeonfish due to the scalpel-like spine located at the base of their tails which is capable of inflicting some serious injury to predators. Some tangs are able to excrete venom from this scalpel while others are poisonous to ingest.

    What Is The Rarest Tang?

    As of 2020, one of the rarest tangs available in the aquarium hobby was an Anubis hybrid. This fish is a mixture of purple tang and scopas tang to create a bright yellow-bodied fish with a spectacularly dark overlay of intricate patterning.

    Aside from morphs, some of the most desired species are gem tangs and black tangs.

    Requirements And Temperament

    Tangs aren’t the hardiest of fish, but luckily, they’re not the most delicate either. With so many types of tangs to choose from, each list of requirements will be unique to the species.

    In general, most tang species are more susceptible to disease than other standard aquarium fish. That being said, they can quickly bounce back to full health given the right attention and care. To keep your tang from getting sick, always allow at least a two-week quarantine period (I recommend longer) before adding it to your main display.

    This display should be at least 70 gallons for smaller, less active types of tangs. Otherwise, these are very active fish that need both open swimming space and rockwork to graze on algae. They is kept at standard saltwater aquarium parameters:

    • pH: 8.0-8.4
    • Alkalinity: 8.0-12.0
    • Salinity: 1.020-1.025
    • Temperature: 72-82° F

    Are They Aggressive?

    More than likely, your tang will be aggressive. They are labeled as semi-aggressive saltwater fish, though they definitely have the ability to injure and kill other fish especially those that is similar in appearance.

    Some types of tangs, like yellow tangs, are particularly known for beating up other fish for no reason at all. To help prevent this from happening in your own aquarium, it’s best to introduce a school of tangs together at once; it should be noted that aggression can and probably will happen in these social groups as the bigger and stronger fish weed out the weakest ones.

    It is also recommended to add tangs as the last addition to the overall stocking list. This will allow other fish to establish a territory that they feel comfortable defending until your tang comes and tries to claim it as its own.

    Though most aggressive tangs is dealt with, some hobbyists have had to rehome their pet fish because nothing was working to diffuse the behavior. Check out the video above from Reef Nerd for a good overview on dealing with aggression.

    One of the best rules of thumb is to mix different sub-species of Tangs. Because they look different, they tend to not display as much aggression to tangs of the same species. I’ll explain the main species a bit later in the post.

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    In general, yes tangs are easy saltwater fish. As mentioned before, they is a little difficult to acclimate to the tank but will thrive if conditions are met.

    Apart from possible aggression, one of the challenges to keeping tangs is keeping them fed. In established coral reefs, they will get most of their herbivorous needs from the rockwork. However, this will need to be supplemented with pieces of dried algae, algae flakes, algae wafers, and a high-quality marine flake or pellet.

    This specialized diet is an additional cost but is necessary for the long-term success of the fish.

    Types – The 4 Different Species

    Tangs are broken down into 4 main species in our hobby. Each has different characteristics. They are:

    • Zebrasoma
    • Ctenchaetus
    • Acanthurus
    • Naso

    Zebrasoma spp.

    The Zebrasoma genus contains one of the most popular species of tang, the yellow tang.

    These fish are categorized by their compact, flattened bodies and sail-like fins. They are some of the most desirable for the home reef system.

    Ctenochaetus spp.

    Ctenochaetus tangs are pretty easy to recognize from Zebrasoma species. These tangs have a more elongated body, with a curved dorsal fin and truncated tail.

    Fish from this genus don’t tend to be as popular as those in Zebrasoma, but this group contains some recognizable faces like kole tangs. Some fish in this genus are also known as bristletooth tangs due to the teeth they use to scrape away algae from rocks.

    Acanthurus spp. & Paracanthurus spp.

    The Acanthurus genus has some of the less popular species while Paracanthurus has only one very popular species, the Dory fish.

    These fish have wide, streamlined bodies for traveling long distances. In general, members of these genera grow to be considerably larger than Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus.

    Naso spp.

    The Naso genus has some interesting fish in terms of color, shape, and body ornaments. These fish also have a very streamlined, yet squashed appearance to them. They can grow to considerable sizes, making most species in this genus unattainable for the average hobbyist.

    15 Different Species (With Pictures)

    In order to understand the many different kinds of tang available in the aquarium hobby, we’ve compiled a list of the most popular species by genus. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. We go over in more detail in the blog post below:

    1. Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens)

    Yellow Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens
    • Size: 8″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The yellow tang is an unmistakenly vibrant yellow. These fish grow to be about 8 inches and need a minimum tank size of 125 gallons with intricate rockwork for grazing on algae and for free swimming room.

    Yellow tangs is kept in schools in large systems, but they have also been known to be aggressive to their own species as well as to similar-looking species.

    Yellow tangs have a very large native range, primarily throughout the Pacific Ocean though they have been documented off the coast of Florida as well.

    2. Purple (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

    Purple Tang in Aquarium
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurum
    • Size: 10″
    • Origin: Red Sea
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The purple tang has become a very desirable species over the past few years, reflecting on its market price. These western Indian Ocean fish are a beautiful velvety purple-blue with accented yellow tail fin; upon closer observation, some darker horizontal lineations are also apparent across the body.

    Purple tangs can grow to be slightly larger than yellow tangs, reaching a maximum size of about 10 inches. They is safely kept with yellow tangs in a 125 gallon aquarium, though there may be some aggression from time to time.

    3. Gem (Zebrasoma gemmatum)

    Gem Tang
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma gemmatum
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Madagascar
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Gem tangs, also known as spotted tangs, have a black body sparkled with small white dots and a flashy yellow tail, making for a jewel of the tank. Unfortunately, these fish are pretty difficult to come across and their extreme appearance can make them absurdly priced.

    Otherwise, these fish require the same husbandry as both the purple and yellow tangs. Some hobbyists like to keep them in slightly larger tanks as they reach a mature size of 9 inches.

    In the western Indian Ocean, these fish is very territorial and often lead completely solitary lives.

    4. Sailfin (Zebrasoma desjardini)

    Sailfin Tang in Reef
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma desjardini
    • Size: 16″
    • Origin: Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The sailfin tang is one of the largest tangs available within the Zebrasoma genus, reaching impressive lengths of almost a foot and a half, plus extra height for their tall sail fins. They is found from the eastern Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

    The sailfin tang is aptly named as the dorsal and anal fins are greatly extended. These fish have simple brown, yellow, and white vertical stripes across their body with yellow fraying across their top and bottom fins.

    Sailfin tangs are less aggressive than other tangs on this list, but they can still easily beat up similar-looking fish and other tangs. Because of their mature size, it is best to keep these fish in aquariums over 180 gallons.

    5. Scopas (Zebrasoma scopas)

    Scopas Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma scopas
    • Size: 12″
    • Origin: Indo Pacific
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Scopas tangs are relatively plain in color with a half-light brown and dark black body, but upon closer inspection, have small iridescent spots all along their sides. These colors will change from their juvenile stage to adulthood, and can even darken or lighten due to stress or disease.

    Though not as colorful, scopas tangs have nearly the same personality as yellow tangs. They can get significantly larger and max out at one foot, though this is uncommon in the aquarium hobby. Because of their adult size, potential aggression, activity levels, and herbivorous diet, this tang species does best in a 125 gallon or more aquarium.

    They can regularly be seen in groups of 20 or more in the wild from the east coast of Africa to the western portions of the Indo-Pacific.

    6. Black (Zebrasoma rostratum)

    Black Tang in Reef
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma rostratum
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Even more devoid of color, the black tang makes a statement in its simplicity. These fish are silky black, with a sometimes lighter brown face; the scalpel at the base of the tail becomes extremely visible (as well as some unlucky external parasites, like ich). They are sometimes referred to as longnose surgeonfish due to their extended beak.

    Surprisingly, black tangs are naturally occurring and originate from the eastern central Pacific Ocean, near the Marquesas Islands and Tuamoto Islands.

    Black tangs can vary in aggression. It is best to give these 9-inch fish at least 180 gallons and it is even better if they’re the only tang in the tank and added last.

    7. Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus)

    Kole Tang
    • Species Type – Ctenochaetus
    • Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus strigosus
    • Size: 7″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The kole tang is an attractive fish with several different common names including kole yellow eye tang, spotted surgeonfish, and bristletoothed tang. These fish have a brilliant yellow ring around their eyes and delicate stripes down their brown body. At full size, they can grow to be 7 inches.

    Kole tangs are also named after their incredible ability to scrape away large amounts of algae from hard surfaces with their specialized teeth. In their native waters, these fish have been observed cleaning sea turtle shells throughout the eastern Central Pacific, even going as far as setting up stations for algae-covered visitors. In general, they are a solitary species.

    These are one of the less demanding species of tang in regards to size, though they can still be aggressive to similar species. At least 70 gallons is recommended with a heavy herbivore diet.

    8. Tomini (Ctenochaetus tominiensis)

    Tomini Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Ctenochaetus
    • Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus tominiensis
    • Size: 6″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Tomini tangs are probably one of the least tang-looking fish on this list. They have incredibly slender brown bodies with yellow-tipped fins and a white tail fin, giving the appearance that they’re another unrelated species.

    These fish are a small species of tang, growing to about 6 inches. They are native to the western central Pacific Ocean. While small, they are still advantageous herbivores capable of scraping algae off of most hard surfaces; they occur by themselves or in very small groups.

    Due to their activity in the aquarium and green diet, they need a minimum tank size of at least 70 gallons.

    9. Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus)

    Blue Tang
    • Species Type – Paracanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
    • Size: 12″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The Hippo Tang goes by many names, including blue tang, hepatus tang, regal tang, and most of all, the Dory fish. These Indo-Pacific schooling fish are a brilliant blue with yellow pectoral fins and tail fin. For now, they are the only described species within this genus.

    Blue tangs can grow to be a foot long and need 180 gallons at full size, though many hobbyists have successfully kept them in 125 gallons and up. Sadly, their fame has led to many poor conditions within the aquarium hobby. These fish are relatively hardy once established, but they can very easily succumb to ich and other illnesses when first introduced into the aquarium.

    The biggest problem is that blue tangs are sold when they are only a couple of inches long, making it seem like they can fit into very small aquariums. Though they’re not the most affordable fish, many inexperienced hobbyists take on the challenge of raising a small blue tang. Within a year, these fish experience exponential growth and quickly become cramped on space.

    At this point, they may injure themselves due to stress or they’re returned back to the aquarium store.

    10. Powder Blue (Acanthurus leucosternon)

    Powder Blue Tang In Aquarium
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus leucosternon
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Indian Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The powder blue tang is a personal favorite. These fish are a delicate blue with black masking, yellow dorsal fin, and other whitish-blue fins. They can grow to be 9 inches long and require a 125 gallon aquarium.

    Powder blue tangs are native to the Indian Ocean. There, they are found alone or in very large feeding groups; in the aquarium, they are best as the only powder species in the aquarium, excluding powder brown tangs as well.

    11. Powder Brown (Acanthurus japonicus)

    Powder Brown Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus japonicus
    • Size: 8″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The powder brown tang is very similar to the powder blue tang in appearance and behavior. These fish grow slightly smaller, reaching about 8 inches, but still need the full 125 gallons for openly swimming and grazing.

    These fish are simple, yet complex in appearance. They have a mainly light brown body outlined in yellow, with margined dark fins and a bright tail fin. The dorsal fin has a streak of orange, contrasting with the rest of the body.

    Powder brown tangs originate from the Indo-West Pacific Ocean around the Philippines and Ryukyu Islands. They are more often found in groups than powder blue tangs but still do best as the only powder tang in the tank.

    12. Clown (Acanthurus lineatus)

    Clown Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus lineatus
    • Size: 15″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The clown tang is another one of the least-looking tang species on this list, but undoubtedly one of the most colorful. As their name suggests, these fish have alternating yellow, black, and blue stripes with an untouched white underbelly. Their mature size is about a foot and three inches.

    These fish swim in schools around shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Though their diet is mainly made up of green, they do like to munch on meaty crustaceans every now and then.

    For best results, clown tangs need at least 250 gallons to be kept in captivity.

    13. Sohal (Acanthurus sohal)

    Sohal Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus sohal
    • Size: 16″
    • Origin: Red Sea
    • Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The sohal tang is similar to the clown tang, just slightly less colorful. Instead of yellow stripes, these fish stick the basic alternating blacks and whites with some blue highlights. They have an attractive yellow tail fin for a needed pop of color. Sohal tangs grow to be about the same size as clown tangs as well and need a 250 gallon tank.

    Interestingly, sohal tangs have a very limited natural range, occurring mainly in the Red Sea but extending to the Persian Gulf as well. There, they are pretty territorial and aggressive towards each other.

    14. Naso (Naso lituratus)

    Naso Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Naso
    • Scientific Name: Naso lituratus
    • Size: 18″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Naso tangs are a favorite in the hobby, though importation is currently limited; trading Hawaiin specimens is highly regulated but others may be collected from farther out in the Indo-Pacific. There, they occur in small groups.

    These fish have a very unique appearance with a smooth gradient from grey to yellowish-orange across their body. They can grow to be nearly two feet long, but rarely reach those sizes in captivity. Still, they need 180 gallons to comfortably swim and graze.

    15. Unicorn (Naso brevirostris, Naso unicornis)

    Unicorn Tang in Aquarium
    • Species Type – Naso
    • Scientific Name: Naso brevirostris
    • Size: 24″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 360 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    There are two main species of unicorn you are likely to come across in the aquarium hobby: the bluespine unicorn tang (Naso unicornis) and the blue/short-nosed unicorn tang (Naso brevirostris). Both these fish have a silvery body and unmistakable horn that grows from the front of their face once they have reached about 6 inches in length.

    The Indo-Pacific bluespine unicorn tang can grow to an impressive 2 feet and are recognizable by the bright blue margin on their fins. Due to their size, they should only be kept in public aquariums or in 300+ gallon home setups.

    The blue/short-nosed unicorn tang originates from the Indo-Pacific and eastern central Pacific, with many individuals coming from Hawaii. This unicorn’s horn is slightly broader than that of the bluespine. These fish can also grow to be 2 feet long and need professional aquarium setups.

    Which Is The Best?

    Tangs are beautiful fish and you’ll probably want to get as many as you can to squeeze into your tank. Unfortunately, that isn’t possible unless you have a very large system. Instead, you will need to settle for one or two at the most.

    But which tang will be right for your reef tank?

    This largely depends on the size of the aquarium and the temperament of the other fish. A larger aquarium will allow for some of the bigger and more active species of tang while a smaller aquarium will greatly limit your choices. The aggression of other fish as well as of the tang that you want to add will also need to be considered.

    It’s also worth mentioning that not all tangs are available or affordable for the common hobbyist. Some of these fish need to be specially ordered and trading bans can suddenly cut off supply.

    Importation

    Though aquaculture has come very far in recent years, a large portion of the fish available in the aquarium hobby is wild-caught. In some cases, these fish originate from utterly unique and delicate ecosystems that need to be preserved. This is the case for some Hawaiin tang species, like yellow tangs and naso tangs.

    Early in 2021, Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources stated that harvesting permits could not be renewed and existing ones were no longer valid1. This is surely a valiant effort for preserving natural ecosystems, but unfortunately, has had a detrimental effect on the availability of some Hawaiin species.

    Luckily though, most of these species is found throughout other regions of the Indo-Pacific and might even be available as aquacultured. Currently, the main three tangs that are commercially tank bred are the Purple, Yellow, and Hippo Tang.

    The Tang Police

    When researching information about tangs, you’re bound to come across a term: the tang police. The tang police have been around since tangs were introduced into the hobby, and rightfully so.

    As mentioned before, many tangs end up in unideal conditions. These are big, active fish that need big, open aquariums to swim and graze. Too often, tangs are sold as juveniles at very small sizes, making it easy to believe that they can comfortably fit into a smaller tank. This simply isn’t true as tangs can grow several inches in just a few months.

    The tang police refer to members of the aquarium hobby, especially those participating in online communities, who insist on informing other hobbyists about proper tang requirements and prevent poor conditions from happening. There is some negativity that surrounds the title as many inexperienced hobbyists don’t believe the necessary requirements are entirely true and try to prove them wrong, but eventually fail.

    If for anything, a lot is learned from the tang police. After all, we are trying to make our fish the happiest and healthiest that they can possibly be.

    Final Thoughts

    Kole tangs, blue tangs, naso tangs, purple tangs. There are so many tangs to choose from and each individual has their own behavior and specific needs.

    For many years, these fish have been shoved into nano tanks without an established source of algae, leaving the fish to quickly outgrow their surroundings and starve. But given the proper care and compatibility, any tang will quickly become the showpiece of the tank.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 21 Types of Tetras: The Complete Species Guide for Freshwater Tanks

    21 Types of Tetras: The Complete Species Guide for Freshwater Tanks

    

    Tetras are the backbone of most freshwater community tanks. including mine. In my 65-gallon community setup I’ve kept multiple tetra species simultaneously, and after 25 years in this hobby I still find them endlessly varied and interesting. Most people know the neon tetra, but the tetra family spans hundreds of species. from beginner-friendly staples to specialty fish that can command real prices. The one thing I tell every beginner: tetras are schooling fish, and they need proper group sizes to thrive. A lone tetra or a pair isn’t just aesthetically wrong. it’s genuinely stressful for the fish. This guide covers 21 types worth knowing, with my honest take on which ones are best for different tank setups.

    What People Get Wrong About Tetras

    The number one mistake: buying three or four tetras for a community tank and calling it done. Tetras kept in small numbers are chronically stressed. They lose color, they hide, and they die faster than they should. This is not a fish quality problem. It’s a numbers problem. Six is survivable. Ten is where you see them thrive.

    The second mistake is mixing species without knowing their behavior. Serpae tetras and black skirt tetras nip fins. Put either in a tank with a betta or an angelfish and the long fins get destroyed. It’s not random aggression. It’s predictable. Know your species before you stock.

    Third: assuming all tetras are equally easy. Most are forgiving, but rummy nose and cardinal tetras are genuinely sensitive to water quality. They’ll signal problems in your tank before your other fish even notice. That’s actually useful if you pay attention.

    What Are Tetras?

    Tetra fish are small freshwater schooling fish that are technically known as characiforms. Most types of tetras will reach a maximum size of between one and two inches long, although some, like the Congo tetra, can grow to over 3 inches.

    Most of the tetras are from South America, but there are also great species from Africa. There is a huge variety of different tetra species in the aquarium hobby, with new species still being introduced from time to time.

    Why Do They Make Such Great Aquarium Fish?

    Tetras are beautiful fish. Most species have awesome colors and markings and some types of tetras also have interesting fin shapes. Looks are not all these tiny fish have going for them though, personality is just as important!

    Tetra fish are a generally super peaceful species, that get along with just about any other tropical freshwater aquarium fish that isn’t big enough to eat them.

    They also tend to be very hardy fish and easy to care for, although unfortunately, some tetras have lost their natural hardiness due to overbreeding.

    21 Best Types of Tetras For Freshwater Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about tetra fish in general, it’s time to meet some of the best Tetra types for your aquarium. For each species, I’ll be providing you with some essential information like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted aquarium suitability

    Here is a video from our YouTube channel you can also follow. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week! We go into more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Neon

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Mostly carnivorous
    • Origin: Colombia, Peru, Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-77°F
    • pH: 4-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Neon Tetra is a classic aquarium fish that has been popular aquarium fish for generations. These fish ‘wow’ everyone that sees them with their amazing colors. Neon Tetras are a schooling species and love to hang out together, so make sure you keep at least 8 of them in the same tank.

    2. Cardinal

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Mostly carnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 73-84°F
    • pH: 3.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    Cardinal Tetras might look very similar to the regular Neon Tetra but they are actually a completely different species. Cardinal Tetras also tend to be a little more difficult to find than regular neons. These schooling fish have even more color than Neon Tetras but the Cardinal Tetra grows a little larger.

    3. Green Neon

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon simulans
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Mostly carnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 76-90+°F
    • pH: 3-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Green Neon Tetra (Video Source) is another great species from the Neon Tetra group. Green Neon Tetras have a bright blue stripe running from head to the base of the tail which really makes them stand out in the tank. These fish are ideal for a heavily planted tank, as long as their tank mates are also very small and equally easy-going.

    4. Black Neon

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Mostly carnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    Black Neon Tetras are a great alternative to the more common Neon Tetra. This species of tetra is widely available and a very peaceful community fish for heavily planted aquariums. Like most other tetras, these fish should not be kept with shrimps.

    5. Gold Neon

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Mostly carnivorous
    • Origin: Colombia, Peru, Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-77°F
    • pH: 4-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    If you think this fish looks a little familiar, that’s because it is actually the leucistic form of the regular Neon Tetra.

    Both fish have the same care requirements, but the Gold Neon Tetra offers a completely different look. Gold Neon Tetras still have the neon stripe down the side of the body but a much lighter overall color.

    6. Congo

    • Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Democratic Republic of Congo
    • Temperature: 73-82°F
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    Although all the other tetra species on my list are from South America, the Congo Tetra (Phenacogrammus interruptus) just goes to show that Africa has some great tropical fish too! Congo Tetras have amazing colors, an interesting caudal fin, and a long, flowing dorsal fin.

    Congo Tetras are large and very active, and they should only be kept in large groups and in tanks that have excellent water quality.

    7. Bloodfin

    • Scientific Name: Aphyocharax anisitsi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay
    • Temperature: 64-82°F
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed:
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Bloodfin Tetra (Aphyocharax anisitsi) is a very attractive fish, with sleek lines and a bright red tail fin. They are an easy tetra to care for and they do well with most tankmates in a tropical community aquarium. To be safe, just don’t keep them with slow-moving fish with long fins.

    8. Rummy Nose

    • Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
    • Temperature: 76-80°F
    • pH: 5.5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Optional

    The Rummy Nose Tetra is a silvery fish with a black and white barred tail and a bright red face. They are a close shoaling species, so make sure you keep at least 10 to see them perform their natural behaviors.

    The Rummy Nose Tetra makes a great community tank mate. It is best to keep them with other very peaceful types of tetras and community fish that will not bully smaller fish or outcompete them for food.

    9. Black Skirt

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia
    • Temperature: 68-78°F
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Optional

    Black Skirt Tetras are active fish that do great in community aquariums, especially if kept in a large group to prevent aggressive behavior. These fish are also known as the Black Widow Tetra.

    It’s true that they are not the most colorful tetras, but they are still a fun and easy species to keep. There are also awesome varieties of Black Skirt Tetras available with longer fins or gold-colored bodies.

    10. Black Phantom

    <a href=Black Phantom Tetra” class=”wp-image-549585″/>
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon megalopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Black Phantom Tetra has a really bold look with its long black dorsal fin and dark body with a black marking just behind the gill covers. Like all tetras, these fish will do best in groups of at least 8 to 10 or so because this helps them feel more comfortable.

    Black Phantom Tetras are very peaceful and easy to care for, making them a great choice for community tanks. Just be sure to avoid keeping them with shrimps or large aggressive tankmates to stay on the safe side.

    11. Ember

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae) is a nano freshwater fish species that can do well in pretty small aquariums. They are very peaceful fish that should only be kept with other small, non-aggressive species. Ember Tetras are schooling fish from South America that look amazing in a heavily planted aquarium.

    12. Ruby

    • Scientific Name: Axelrodia riesei
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Colombia
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Ruby Tetra is quite similar in appearance to the Ember Tetra, but a lot less common (Video Source). What really sets these fish apart is their white fins, black tail spot, and awesome red eyes. Ruby Tetras are very small fish that are ideal for small aquariums in the 15-gallon range.

    13. Bleeding Blue

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon margitae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 70-82°F
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Bleeding Blue Tetra (Video Source) is a less common relative of the Black Neon Tetra. These fish are larger tetras, and their amazing colors will make them stand out in any community aquarium.

    Bleeding Blue Tetras are perfect for heavily planted aquariums but should not be kept with shrimps because they naturally feed on small invertebrates.

    14. Purple

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon metae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Colombia & Venezuela
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    The Purple Tetra is another awesome relative of the more common Black Neon Tetra (video source). These beautiful fish can be difficult to find, but make a perfect addition to any tropical community tank with other fish that are equally non-aggressive.

    15. Golden Silver Tip

    • Scientific Name: Hasemania nana
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful, Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 74-82°F
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tanks: Optional

    This awesome variety of the regular Silvertip Tetra has a shining gold body that looks incredible in an aquarium with a dark background (video source).

    Like regular Silvertip Tetras, you should only keep these schooling fish in a large group. Without a group to encourage their normal behaviors they may have a tendency to bully other fish and nip their fins.

    16. Toucan

    • Scientific Name: Tucanoichthys tucano
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.5-0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-82°F
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Optional

    The Toucan Tetra is a great nano fish for tropical freshwater tanks. They have almost clear to golden bodies with a broad black stripe from head to tail and rosy-red cheeks (video source).

    These tiny tetras are still a rare species in the aquarium hobby but are awesome tankmates for other nano fish like Otocinclus catfish and rasboras.

    17. Orange Von Rio

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon flammeus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-79°F
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    This fish is actually just an amazing orange strain of the popular Flame Tetra. These adaptable fish are easy to care for and make a great centerpiece fish with their eye-catching looks.

    The Orange Von Rio Tetra is a very peaceful fish species that are perfect for community tanks, especially if they have other small, peaceful tankmates and live plants.

    18. Blue

    • Scientific Name: Boehlkea fredcochui
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 2o gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-82°F
    • pH: 5.5-7.6
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    Blue Tetras are still a pretty rare species but are amazing for larger community tanks. These guys can get a little feisty around feeding time, so make sure their tank mates are fast swimming and do not have long, soft fins.

    19. Red Eye

    Red Eye Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Paraguay, Brazil, Argentina
    • Temperature: 72-79°F
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Yes

    Red-eye Tetras can be identified by their shiny silver bodies, red eyes, and a black spot on their caudal fin (tail fin). It is important to keep them in a group of at least 8 fish to prevent fighting and fin nipping.

    They are pretty big for tetras at over 2 inches in length and they are also very busy fish that swim actively in the aquarium. This means these guys need a bigger setup than the other species on this list.

    20. GloFish

    Glo Fish Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia
    • Temperature: 68-78°F
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Optional

    The Glofish Tetra is a genetically modified version of the peaceful Black Skirt Tetra. Glofish are pretty controversial, and many aquarists either love them or hate them. One thing is for certain though, they do have incredible colors.

    Glofish Tetras are pretty misunderstood in the hobby. These fish are not injected to give them these fluorescent colors, and they can be bred to produce equally colorful offspring.

    21. Buenos Aires

    <a href=Buenos Aires Tetra” class=”wp-image-549600″/>
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon anisitsi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Uraguay, Paraguay, Brazil, Argentina
    • Temperature: 64-82°F
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tanks: Not recommended

    The Buenos Aires Tetra is a great-looking fish with a silvery body and bright orange fins. These are large, active tetras, that can reach a little over 2 inches in length.

    Buenos Aires Tetras have a bit of a reputation for eating aquarium plants, so they are not the best choice for carefully aquascaped aquariums. These fish are also not ideal for community tanks with smaller, slow-moving tank mates.

    Additional Species

    In case you’re still curious about even more types of tetra species, here are a few more that you might find swimming around at your local aquarium stores:

    • Rainbow tetra
    • Bleeding heart tetras
    • Bucktooth tetras
    • Emperor tetra
    • Penguin tetras
    • Lemon tetra
    • Glowlight tetras
    • Diamond tetras
    • Serpae tetra
    • Tail light tetra
    • Mexican tetras
    • Silvertip tetras
    • Bleeding heart tetra
    • Flame tetra

    Tank Setup

    Now that you’ve been introduced to some amazing tetra species for your aquarium, it’s time to learn how to care for them. Let’s start by looking at how to put together an awesome aquarium for your fish.

    Aquarium Size

    Most tetras are very small fish that don’t need a huge tank to be happy. They are active swimmers though, so they do need a decent amount of swimming space. The smallest species, like Ember Tetras, can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons. The majority of tetra species will do best in an aquarium size of 20 gallons or larger, however.

    Tetras are great fish for community tanks with other types of tetras or similarly sized tropical freshwater fish. If you want to set up a great community tank, make sure you provide enough room for the other fish too!

    Substrate

    The substrate is the sand or gravel that you put at the bottom of the tank. Some fish keepers prefer not to use any substrate at all, but I would recommend using aquarium gravel to create a more natural look in your tank. The color you use is not that important, but a darker substrate tend to bring out the colors in your fish better.

    If you don’t want to work with an active aqua soil, but still want some of the advantages of one, you can try a product like CaribSea Eco Complete. It’s a beginner friendly inert substrate that will absorb aquarium fertilizers well.

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    Lighting

    Many tetras prefer pretty dim lighting, so you don’t need anything too powerful or expensive to keep these fish happy. Unless you plan on growing a lot of live plants, a standard aquarium light will do just fine. For planted tanks, consider a light designed for them.

    Filtration

    An aquarium filter is a piece of hardware that aquarists use to keep the water in the fish tank clean and healthy. Filters do some very important things like:

    • Mechanical filtration

    Mechanical filtration is the actual physical removal of waste particles from the water. Essentially, aquarium filters suck water through a sponge-like material and these solid particles get trapped, leaving clean water to flow through the other side.

    • Biological filtration

    This is the incredibly important type of filtration where beneficial bacteria that live in your aquarium filter work to convert dangerous ammonia and nitrites into nitrate, which is safer for your fish.

    • Chemical filtration

    Many modern aquarium filters now offer a third type of filtration that removes toxins from the water. Often these filters use a material known as activated carbon that attracts and absorbs certain harmful particles.

    There are many different types of filters available, so it can be tough to choose the best one for your tank. A great starting point for a tetra tank or community setup would be a simple hang-on-back or internal power filter.

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    Testing Water Parameters

    Water parameters are the conditions of your tank water. Different fish species prefer different parameters, so it’s important to look up the preferred conditions for each type of fish you keep.

    The water you use in your aquarium will have certain qualities before you add it to the tank, and will also change over time, so it’s important to be able to test your water.

    Testing your water parameters is easy with a test kit. There are a few different types of these test kits, ranging from dry strips that you dip in the water, to liquids that you add drops of your aquarium water to. If water chemistry isn’t your favorite subject, don’t worry, they are very easy to use.

    Although each different tetra species has its own range of preferred parameters, let’s take a look at a generalized set of conditions that will work for most tetras:

    • Temperature: 76°F
    • pH: Most tetras do best in slightly acidic water, so a pH of between 6 and 6.5 is ideal.
    • Ammonia: 0ppm. Ammonia is a toxic substance produced in fish waste. In a cycled aquarium, testing should show no ammonia.
    • Nitrite: 0ppm. Nitrite is a toxic substance produced in fish waste. In a cycled aquarium, testing should show no nitrite.
    • Nitrate: 1-20 ppm.

    Live Plants

    Growing live plants in your aquarium is a subject all on its own, but it’s easier than you might think! Live plants provide many awesome benefits to your fish like:

    • Creating structure and hiding places
    • Providing a more natural habitat
    • Providing a growing surface for natural foods
    • Oxygenating the water
    • Removing nitrates from the water

    Most tetras do great in planted tanks, and I would recommend the following species for beginners because they are easy, tough, and grow well in low light.

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    If you have bright lighting, growing some floating plants like Amazon Frogbit can create some shady spots. This can help make your fish more comfortable and bring out their natural behaviors.

    Unlike other tetras, the Buenos Aires Tetra has a bit of a reputation as a plant-eater. This is one tetra species I would not recommend for planted tanks unless you don’t mind them taking a bite here and there.

    Decorations

    Natural decorations are the best to purchase to simulate their natural environment. Try purchasing decorations like aquarium driftwood and rocks. For driftwood, easy to use manzanita or spiderwood work very well and shape well for attaching plants to it.

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    For rocks, consider rocks like dragon stone or Seiryu stone. These rocks are great to use for aquascaping styles like Iwagumi.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After 25 years in this hobby and time managing fish stores, I’ve sold thousands of tetras and watched countless tanks fail for the same reason: people buy two or three and wonder why they look stressed and washed out. Tetras need a school. A group of six is the bare minimum, eight is better, and twelve in a well-planted tank is where you really see what these fish can do. Get the group size right and the colors and behavior follow. Skip it and you’ll be disappointed.

    TIER BREAKDOWN

    Beginner: Neon Tetra, Black Skirt Tetra, Buenos Aires Tetra, Serpae Tetra, Glowlight Tetra
    Intermediate: Cardinal Tetra, Ember Tetra, Black Phantom Tetra, Penguin Tetra, Colombian Tetra, Diamond Tetra
    Advanced: Rummy Nose Tetra (water quality sensitive), Emperor Tetra, Congo Tetra (needs space), Green Neon Tetra (soft acidic water required)

    Species Difficulty Max Size Min Tank Best For
    Neon Tetra Beginner 1.5 in (3.8 cm) 15 gal (57 L) First tank, community
    Cardinal Tetra Intermediate 2 in (5 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Planted South American setups
    Rummy Nose Tetra Intermediate 2 in (5 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Display tanks, experienced keepers
    Black Skirt Tetra Beginner 2.5 in (6.4 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Community tanks, robust setups
    Congo Tetra Intermediate 3.5 in (9 cm) 40 gal (150 L) Large planted community
    Ember Tetra Intermediate 0.8 in (2 cm) 10 gal (38 L) Nano planted tanks
    Diamond Tetra Intermediate 2.4 in (6 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Community, underrated display fish
    Serpae Tetra Beginner 1.75 in (4.5 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Robust community (watch fin nipping)

    How To Care For Them

    Tetras are low-maintenance fish that are really easy to care for. That’s why many tetra species make such great fish for beginners. Let’s go through some of the basics of tetra care:

    Aquarium maintenance

    To keep your fish healthy and looking their best, regular aquarium maintenance is necessary. The most important thing you can do is to perform regular partial water changes.

    This means regularly removing a certain proportion of the water and replacing it with fresh new water. A good starting point would be a 25% weekly water change.

    Apart from your water changes, you’ll need to rinse out your filter media when it becomes clogged up and clean any algae that may build up on the glass or other surfaces on your tank.

    Behavior

    In their natural habitat, tetras are schooling and shoaling fish. This means they live in large groups of their own species out in the wild. You may even find groups of tetras schooling with other tetra species.

    Tetras on their own or in very small groups will be stressed and nervous, and not comfortable enough to behave in their natural ways. Although tetras are peaceful fish species, some types may even become aggressive, so you should always keep your tetras in a good size group of the same species.

    In most cases, the minimum group size for tetras is 8-10 of the same species, but you can go even bigger than that!

    Tank Mates

    If you plan on setting up a community tank, it’s important to know which species make ideal tank mates and which don’t. Tetras are small fish, so make sure their tank mates aren’t big enough to swallow them!

    Tetras themselves are often partially or completely carnivorous, so avoid keeping them with fry or small shrimps that they may feed on. Here’s a short list of possible fish species that you can keep with your tetras:

    Avoid purchasing aggressive freshwater fish such as:

    Feeding

    Most tetra species are omnivorous which means they need both plant and animal matter in their diets. As a general day-to-day food, flakes or micropellets are a fine choice to keep your tetras well fed. Instead of choosing the cheapest variety available, make sure you pick up a high-quality, balanced product like Xtreme Aquatic Foods.

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    While this food source is a good staple diet, you should always supplement their diet with natural foods as this will bring out the best color and behavior in your fish. You can provide natural foods in either live or frozen form.

    Let’s take a look at some great natural foods that you can provide:

    • Brine shrimp
    • Blood worm
    • Mosquito larvae
    • Micro worms

    Breeding

    Many tetras are easy to breed, and sometimes they don’t need any help at all. To encourage your tetras to breed, be sure to provide them with high-quality natural foods and excellent water quality. If you have a large, mature aquarium, you might wake up one day to find tiny new fish swimming around!

    Usually, however, the problem with breeding tetras is that they tend to eat their eggs and fry, so you need to take some steps to get them to breed in the first place, and then to keep the eggs and babies safe.

    To do this, you will need to set up a specific breeding tank. A small tank of just a few gallons, and with no substrate is usually used for this. A clump of java moss in the tank will give the female a place to lay her eggs.

    Add an egg-carrying female to the tank and then two days later, a male. Perform a large water change in the evening with cooler water, this imitates the start of the rainy season. After the water change, cover up the tank to keep it in complete darkness until the following day.

    Remove the cover and switch on the lights, this often stimulates the pair to spawn. If the fish lay eggs, move them back to their regular tank and congratulate yourself on breeding your tetras!

    Where to Buy

    Tetras are some of the most common aquarium fish in the hobby and are usually pretty easy to find at your local fish store. My favorite online store for tetras is definitely Flipaquatics.

    These guys stock an awesome range of tetra species and take amazing care of their fish, even offering a 100% live arrival guarantee on certain deliveries! They also quarantine all their livestock!

    MARK’S PICK

    Cardinal Tetra. It’s bigger than the neon, hardier in warm water (75-82°F), and when you put 12 or more in a planted tank they move like a single organism. That red stripe running the full length of the body is one of the most striking things in freshwater. If I’m setting up a South American community, cardinals go in first.

    AVOID IF

    You want to keep just 2 or 3 fish (tetras school or they stress). You have a brand new tank under 4 weeks old (new tank syndrome hits tetras hard). You’re planning to pair serpae or black skirt tetras with long-finned fish like bettas or angelfish (fin nipping is predictable, not random). You want fish that survive neglect: tetras are forgiving of beginner mistakes but they punish dirty, unstable, or overstocked tanks. Rummy nose and cardinal tetras in particular will crash quickly in poor water conditions.

    FAQS

    How many of them should be kept together?

    Tetras are schooling and shoaling fish that need to be kept in groups to feel comfortable in your tank. I would recommend keeping a group of at least 8 tetras of the same species.

    Are they easy to care for?

    Most tetras are very easy to care for, and that makes them great beginner fish. Tetras will thrive as long as they are kept in a stable, heated aquarium, with good filtration and the right water parameters.

    Do they need a heater?

    Most tetras are tropical fish that need water temperatures between about 68 and 76°F, depending on their species, of course. If you live in a tropical area where the water naturally stays in this range, a heater will not be necessary.

    I recommend using a heater in all cases, however, just because it makes it so much easier to maintain stable conditions.

    What is the best kind?

    If you ask 10 different people this question, you could get 10 different answers! The best type of tetra for any fishkeeper is the one that most appeals to them, and the one that they can provide the right care for.

    What is the most common?

    The regular Neon Tetra is the most common tetra available. This is not surprising though because these awesome fish look great, are very peaceful, and are also very easy to care for.

    What is the most peaceful?

    Most tetras tend to be pretty peaceful. The most popular tetras like cardinal, neon, and rummy nose tetras are some of the most peace fish you can purchase in the hobby.

    Closing Thoughts

    Tetras are not complicated fish. But they do have non-negotiable requirements: school size, stable water, and compatible tank mates. Get those right and you’ve got a display that makes people stop and look. Get them wrong and you’ve got stressed, pale fish that die in three months.

    Start with neons, cardinals, or glowlights if you’re newer to the hobby. They’re forgiving and beautiful. When you’re ready to push further, rummy nose tetras in a mature planted tank are one of the best displays in freshwater. Diamond tetras are underrated and deserve more attention.

    For sourcing, I recommend Flip Aquatics (use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO at checkout) or Dan’s Fish. Both quarantine their livestock and give you a much healthier starting point than a chain pet store.

  • 15 Beautiful Types of Clownfish (With Pictures)

    15 Beautiful Types of Clownfish (With Pictures)

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    Clownfish are the entry point to the saltwater hobby for most people, and that’s a good thing. They’re hardy, adaptable, and genuinely interesting to watch. But there are things the hobby gets wrong about them constantly. First, not all clownfish are the same. The ocellaris and percula look nearly identical, but the percula has thicker black borders and brighter orange. Designer clownfish are not “genetically modified” as some people claim; they’re selectively bred, and tank-raised fish are almost always a better choice than wild-caught for any clownfish purchase. Second, the maroon clownfish is not a community fish. It’s aggressive and it will dominate your tank. A lot of hobbyists learn that one the hard way. And third, anemones are not required. Your tank-raised clownfish may never host one. That’s normal. Don’t stress over it.

    There are dozens of clownfish species and designer variants, and they are not all the same. Some are peaceful, some are aggressive, and some grow larger than most people expect.

    Not all clownfish are Nemo. Some are territorial bullies that will own your tank.

    Key Takeaways

    • There are 30 recognized clownfish species in the Amphiprioninae subfamily, with many more designer variants created through selective breeding.
    • Ocellaris and percula look nearly identical. The percula has thicker black borders, a darker orange, and slightly higher price. For a 10-gallon community reef, the difference is mostly cosmetic.
    • Tank-raised clownfish are superior in almost every way: healthier, better adapted to prepared foods, easier to acclimate, and not depleting wild reef populations.
    • Maroon clownfish are the most aggressive species in this family. A single maroon will dominate tanks under 55 gallons (208 L).
    • Anemones are optional. Many tank-raised clownfish never host one. That’s normal behavior, not a problem to fix.
    • Designer clownfish (black ice, DaVinci, Wyoming white, Picasso) are tank-raised, ethically produced, and perfectly healthy fish. They are selectively bred color morphs, not genetically modified.
    • Clownfish are sequential hermaphrodites. All start as males. The dominant fish becomes female and is always the largest in the pair.

    Introduction to Clownfish

    Clownfish belong to the Amphiprioninae subfamily within the family Pomacentridae. There are 30 recognized species and one genus (Premnas) reserved for the maroon clownfish. The most commonly seen in the aquarium trade are the ocellaris, percula, tomato, clarkii, maroon, and pink skunk. Designer variants extend that list significantly with selectively bred color morphs that have become a major segment of the captive-bred marine fish market.

    All clownfish are sequential hermaphrodites. They’re born male. The dominant individual in a group becomes female. That female is always the largest fish in the pair, which is why the female in an established pair visibly outgrows her mate over time. If the female is removed from the tank, the dominant male will transition to female. This biology is what made the movie premise work: in a natural group, the death of the female would have resulted in the largest male becoming female, not a search for a new mate.

    The relationship with anemones is one of the most misunderstood aspects of clownfish keeping. Clownfish evolved alongside anemones and benefit from their protection. But many tank-raised clownfish have never encountered an anemone and may ignore one completely, or host unusual substitute objects like powerhead intakes, wave makers, or even duncan coral. Don’t force the relationship. If it happens, great. If it doesn’t, your clownfish is fine.

    Avoid These Combinations

    • Maroon clownfish in tanks under 55 gallons (208 L) with passive or small tank mates
    • Two different clownfish species in the same tank (they will fight)
    • Wild-caught clownfish when tank-raised are available (tank-raised are always the better choice)
    • Clownfish with anemones in new tanks (anemones need at minimum 6 months of tank maturity and stable parameters)
    • Tomato clownfish in community reefs with passive species like firefish or small gobies

    ASD Clownfish Selection Guide

    Best for Beginners and Community Reefs: Ocellaris, Percula. These are the most peaceful, most adaptable, and most widely available. Fit tanks as small as 10 gallons (38 L). Tank-raised specimens are widely available and should always be the first choice.

    Intermediate (More Personality, More Aggression): Clarkii, Pink Skunk, Saddleback. Hardy species with wider anemone compatibility. The clarkii is more assertive than ocellaris but manageable in a 30-gallon (114 L)+ system with appropriate tank mates.

    Advanced (Aggression Management Required): Maroon, Tomato. These species need more space, more careful stocking decisions, and experienced hobbyists who understand how to manage territorial fish. Not for community reef tanks with passive species.

    Types of Clownfish

    1. Ocellaris Clownfish (False Percula)

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion ocellaris
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
    • Tank Bred: Widely available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner

    Mark’s Pick

    The ocellaris is the one I recommend to nearly everyone starting in saltwater. It’s peaceful, hardy, works in small tanks, eats everything, and is one of the most widely tank-raised fish in the hobby. If you want your first clownfish to thrive, start here. The percula is equally good, but ocellaris tank-raised options are more abundant and often less expensive.

    The ocellaris is the most widely kept clownfish in the hobby and the species that most people picture when they think of clownfish: bright orange with three white bars outlined in black. Tank-raised specimens are available from almost every source and are reliably healthy, eating prepared foods from day one. They’re peaceful with most tank mates, compatible with a wide range of host anemones, and adaptable to FO, FOWLR, and full reef setups.

    At 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) they fit a 10-gallon (38 L) as a pair. They establish a small territory and stay there, which makes them excellent for nano reefs. A bonded pair will breed readily in captivity, spawning on flat rock surfaces near their territory. The fry are difficult to raise but it’s a fascinating behavior to observe.

    2. True Percula Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion percula
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific, Great Barrier Reef, Melanesia
    • Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
    • Tank Bred: Widely available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner

    The true percula and the ocellaris are often sold interchangeably, and for most practical purposes in a home reef, they are. The distinguishing features are visible up close: the percula has thicker, more prominent black borders around its white bars and a slightly richer, darker orange body. The percula also has 10 dorsal fin spines versus 11 in the ocellaris, though you won’t be counting those in a fish store.

    Care requirements are essentially identical. The percula may host anemones slightly more readily than tank-raised ocellaris, and it tends to command a higher price. Both are excellent beginner fish. If you’re choosing between the two, let availability and price guide you rather than any meaningful difference in behavior or hardiness.

    3. Maroon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) females; males stay smaller
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L), 55 gallons (208 L) preferred
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Advanced

    The maroon is the largest and most aggressive clownfish species. It belongs to its own genus, Premnas, which separates it taxonomically from all other clownfish. The female grows to 6 inches (15 cm) and will dominate any tank she’s in. Maroon clownfish are not a community fish. Period. They will intimidate, harass, and sometimes kill other fish that venture near their territory, especially other clownfish species.

    In a dedicated system or a large tank with robust, similarly assertive tank mates, the maroon is stunning. The gold stripe morph is one of the most visually striking clownfish available. But buy one knowing exactly what it is. This fish defines the tank. Everything else gets stocked around it.

    4. Tomato Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion frenatus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

    The tomato clownfish is red-orange with a single white bar behind the head. Juveniles have two or three bars that fade as the fish matures. It’s one of the hardiest clownfish available and adapts to a wide range of water conditions. The downside is temperament. Tomato clownfish are significantly more aggressive than ocellaris or percula, particularly females. In a 30-gallon (114 L) community reef, a dominant female tomato will harass smaller or passive fish. Put it in a tank where other fish can hold their own.

    5. Clarkii Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion clarkii
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific, Persian Gulf
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The clarkii is one of the most anemone-compatible clownfish species, hosting a wider range of anemone species than almost any other. It’s a larger, more assertive fish than the ocellaris but not as aggressively territorial as the maroon or tomato. Coloration varies significantly: most are orange-yellow with three white bars, but regional color forms range from nearly all black to very pale yellow. Hardy and adaptable to most marine setups. A good choice for hobbyists who want a clownfish with a more noticeable presence in a larger reef.

    6. Pink Skunk Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion perideraion
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

    The pink skunk has a distinctive pale pink-peach coloration with a single white stripe running along the dorsal ridge rather than full bars. It’s one of the more peaceful clownfish species and less commonly seen in stores than ocellaris or percula. It pairs well with Heteractis magnifica anemones in reef setups. In a community tank with other peaceful fish, the pink skunk is an excellent choice. Its color is more subtle than the standard orange-white clownfish pattern, which some reefers appreciate for its uniqueness.

    7. Saddleback Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion polymnus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available in limited quantities
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The saddleback gets its name from the distinctive white marking that sits like a saddle across the back portion of its dark body. It’s less commonly available than other species but is hardy and adaptable when sourced from a quality supplier. The saddleback is more associated with bubble-tip anemones and Stichodactyla anemones in the wild. It’s moderately aggressive, between the peaceful ocellaris and the assertive tomato. A good mid-range choice for experienced hobbyists who want something less commonly seen in home reefs.

    8. Ocellaris Color Morphs and Designer Clownfish

    • Parent Species: Amphiprion ocellaris
    • Size: Same as standard ocellaris, 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Tank Bred: Yes, exclusively
    • ASD Tier: Beginner (care requirements identical to standard ocellaris)

    Designer clownfish are selectively bred color morphs of the ocellaris (and occasionally percula). They are not wild fish, not genetically modified, and not inferior in health to standard specimens. They’re the result of breeding programs run by professional aquaculture facilities that select for specific color and pattern traits over multiple generations. Common designer variants include:

    • Picasso: Irregular, asymmetric white patterning. Highly variable, no two are identical.
    • Wyoming White: Almost entirely white with minimal orange, sometimes with faint color near the face.
    • Black Ice: Dark body with white patterns. The black coloration replaces the orange.
    • DaVinci: Complex, painterly white patterning across a standard orange base.
    • Platinum: Nearly all white with minimal orange, often confused with Wyoming White but from different breeding lines.
    • Snowflake: White bars spread and connect in irregular snowflake patterns. Common entry-level designer.

    Designer clownfish are always tank-raised, always ethically produced, and always a better choice than wild-caught from an environmental standpoint. Care requirements are identical to the standard ocellaris. They command a premium price, which reflects the breeding program costs and the uniqueness of individual pattern variation, not any difference in care demand.

    9. Fire Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
    • Size: 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Central and Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The fire clownfish is a rich, deep red-orange with a single white bar behind the head and dark coloration around the fins. Often confused with the tomato clownfish, the fire clownfish has a darker body and slightly different distribution range. It’s moderately aggressive, similar to the tomato. Best kept in a tank with fish of comparable assertiveness. It will host bubble-tip anemones readily in reef setups.

    10. Cinnamon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Limited availability
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The cinnamon clownfish shares significant overlap with the fire clownfish in both appearance and taxonomy. It has a warm reddish-brown body with a single white head bar, black edges on the fins, and an aggressive territorial disposition. Not commonly available but worth seeking out for reefers who want something less frequently seen. Temperament is similar to the tomato and fire clownfish, requiring appropriate tank mates.

    11. Sebae Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion sebae
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Indian Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Rarely
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

    The sebae clownfish is a large, dark-bodied species with two white bars, a yellow tail, and orange highlights around the face. It’s less commonly available than other species and most specimens sold are wild-caught. Wild sebae clownfish have a mixed track record in captivity. They form natural partnerships with Stichodactyla mertensii anemones and can be aggressive in the aquarium. If available as a tank-raised specimen, worth considering for an experienced reefer with a large system. Wild-caught specimens require more careful acclimation and feeding patience.

    12. Gold Stripe Maroon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Advanced

    The gold stripe maroon is a color variant of the standard maroon clownfish where the white bars are replaced by bright yellow-gold stripes. It’s visually one of the most striking clownfish available. The aggression levels are identical to the standard maroon. This fish will dominate any tank it’s in. In a large system with appropriate tank mates, it’s a spectacular centerpiece fish. Don’t keep it in a community reef unless you’ve planned the stocking carefully around its territorial needs.

    13. Skunk Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion akallopisos
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

    The skunk clownfish is one of the most peaceful species in the family, more passive even than the ocellaris. It has a pale orange-peach body with a single dorsal stripe. It’s less commonly available in stores but is hardy and compatible with most peaceful reef tank mates. Well-suited to systems where a more low-key clownfish presence is preferred. It pairs readily with Heteractis magnifica anemones.

    14. Orange-Fin Anemonefish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion chrysopterus
    • Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Limited
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    One of the larger species in the genus, the orange-fin anemonefish has a dark body with two white bars and distinctive orange-yellow fins. It’s closely related to the clarkii and shares its wide anemone compatibility. Less aggressive than the maroon or tomato, more assertive than the ocellaris. Available periodically from quality marine suppliers.

    15. Barrier Reef Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion akindynos
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific (Australia, Coral Sea)
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Rarely available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The Barrier Reef clownfish looks similar to the clarkii but has a slightly different color pattern and distribution range concentrated around Australia’s reef systems. It’s one of the more rarely seen species in the trade. Hardy when obtained from a quality source, it’s a solid choice for experienced hobbyists who want a less common clownfish without the extreme care demands of some rarer species.

    Clownfish Comparison Table

    Species Size Min Tank Aggression Tank-Raised Difficulty
    Ocellaris 3-4 in (7.5-10 cm) 10 gal (38 L) Low Widely available Beginner
    True Percula 3-4 in (7.5-10 cm) 10 gal (38 L) Low Widely available Beginner
    Tomato 3-5 in (7.5-13 cm) 30 gal (114 L) High Available Intermediate-Adv
    Maroon 4-6 in (10-15 cm) 55 gal (208 L) Very High Available Advanced
    Clarkii 3-5 in (7.5-13 cm) 30 gal (114 L) Moderate Available Intermediate
    Pink Skunk 3-4 in (7.5-10 cm) 20 gal (76 L) Low Limited Beginner-Int
    Designer (Ocellaris morphs) 3-4 in (7.5-10 cm) 10 gal (38 L) Low Yes (exclusively) Beginner
    Saddleback 3-5 in (7.5-13 cm) 30 gal (114 L) Moderate Limited Intermediate
    Gold Stripe Maroon 4-6 in (10-15 cm) 55 gal (208 L) Very High Available Advanced

    Tank Requirements and Care

    Most clownfish species are hardy and adapt to a range of water conditions. They work in fish-only (FO), fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), and full reef setups. The minimum tank size for a pair of ocellaris or percula is 10 gallons (38 L), though a 20-gallon (76 L) gives more swimming room and easier water stability. Larger, more aggressive species like the maroon and tomato need 30 gallons (114 L) minimum, with 55 gallons (208 L) preferred.

    Water parameters should be kept at: temperature 74 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 26 degrees Celsius), salinity 1.023 to 1.025 specific gravity, pH 8.1 to 8.4. Clownfish tolerate mild fluctuations better than most marine fish, which contributes to their reputation as beginner-friendly. That said, consistency is still the goal.

    Clownfish establish territory and don’t venture far from the area they claim. A pair will stay near their hosting spot (anemone, coral, powerhead, or other structure) and defend it against fish that get too close. This makes them predictable and easy to observe. Feeding time is one of the most entertaining parts of keeping clownfish. They learn to recognize feeding schedules and will come to the front of the glass in anticipation.

    FAQs

    What is the difference between ocellaris and percula clownfish?

    The percula has thicker black borders around its white bars and a slightly richer, darker orange body. It also has 10 dorsal fin spines versus 11 in the ocellaris. In a home reef, the practical difference is minimal. Both have similar care requirements and temperament. Price and availability often favor the ocellaris.

    Do clownfish need an anemone?

    No. Many tank-raised clownfish never host an anemone and live healthy, full lives without one. If you want to add an anemone, wait until your tank has been running for at least 6 months, parameters are completely stable, and you understand the anemone’s specific care requirements. Anemones are not beginner additions. The clownfish will be fine without one.

    Are designer clownfish healthy?

    Yes. Designer clownfish are tank-raised through selective breeding programs. They’re not genetically modified and not inferior in health to standard color variants. They can be slightly more expensive due to the breeding program costs and the uniqueness of individual patterns, but their care requirements, hardiness, and lifespan are identical to standard ocellaris.

    How long do clownfish live?

    In captivity, 3 to 5 years is typical but 10 or more years is possible with good care. They’re one of the more long-lived marine fish at their size, and tank-raised specimens tend to do better than wild-caught over the long term. Consistent water quality and appropriate diet are the biggest factors in longevity.

    Can I keep two different clownfish species together?

    Generally no. Different clownfish species will usually fight. Keep one species per tank. If you want two clownfish, buy a bonded pair of the same species or introduce two juveniles of the same species simultaneously so they can pair up naturally. Mixing species almost always ends in conflict.

    Wild-caught vs. tank-raised: which should I buy?

    Tank-raised, every time. Tank-raised clownfish are adapted to aquarium life, eating prepared foods from day one, healthier on arrival, less stressed by the captive environment, and not contributing to wild reef collection pressure. When tank-raised is available, there is no meaningful reason to choose wild-caught.

    Closing Thoughts

    Clownfish are one of the best entries into the saltwater hobby and for good reason. The ocellaris and percula are genuinely forgiving fish that will thrive in a well-maintained setup, stay in one spot so you always know where they are, and bring more personality to a 10-gallon (38 L) tank than most fish bring to tanks ten times that size.

    Buy tank-raised when you can. Know the aggression level of the species you’re choosing. Don’t stress over the anemone. And if you want something unique, designer clownfish are worth every penny of the premium when you see an exceptional Picasso or Black Ice specimen in person.

    For availability and quality sourcing, check Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both carry a range of clownfish species and designer variants and will tell you whether a specimen is eating before it ships.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.