Tag: Freshwater

Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect. outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

Introduction To Goldfish

Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

1. Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.
   
   However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.
   
   It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
2. Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
3. Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
4. Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
5. Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

Introduction To Breeding

Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

How To Breed Them

The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

Aquarium Setup

In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54° F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74° F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

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Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

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Spawning

Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

Raising The Fry

Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

Conclusion

Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Red devil cichlids earn their name. They’re large, bold, and genuinely aggressive. And in 25+ years I’ve seen plenty of them rehomed by people who underestimated just how much personality (and destruction) one fish can bring to a tank. That’s not a knock against the species. It just means they’re a commitment, not an afterthought.

The fish that needs its own tank, its own filter, and its own insurance policy.

The Red Devil does not share. It does not compromise. It owns the tank, and everything in it is either food or a target.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Red Devil Cichlid

The most common misconception about red devil cichlids is confusing them with Midas cichlids (Amphilophus citrinellus). Most fish sold as “red devils” in stores are actually Midas cichlids or hybrids between the two species. True red devils (Amphilophus labiatus) have noticeably thicker lips and a slightly different body shape. This matters because their temperaments differ. True red devils are even more aggressive than Midas cichlids, which is saying something. The other myth is that their aggression is managed by adding more fish. Unlike mbuna where overstocking can spread aggression, adding more fish to a red devil tank just gives them more targets.

Table of Contents

• The Reality of Keeping Red Devil Cichlid
• Key Takeaways
• Fish Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins
• Appearance
• How Big Can They Get?
• How Long Do They Live?
• What Do They Eat?
• Temperament and Behavior
• Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates
• Care
• Tank Requirements
• Water Quality And Filtration
• Breeding
• Health And Disease
• Where To Buy
• FAQs
• Final Thoughts

Red devil cichlids are among the most aggressive freshwater fish in the hobby. They will kill tank mates, bite your hand during maintenance, and rearrange everything in the tank on a daily basis. This fish does not coexist with anything. I have seen red devils crack heater guards and move rocks that weigh more than they do. If you want a pet with personality, this delivers. If you want a peaceful tank, look elsewhere. The fish that bites back and means it.

The Reality of Keeping Red Devil Cichlid

There is no sugarcoating this. Red Devils are demanding, aggressive, and destructive. Here is what owning one actually looks like.

They destroy everything. Heaters, thermometers, decorations, plants. If a Red Devil can move it, it will. If it cannot move it, it will try. Use external heaters, protected equipment, and heavy rocks that cannot be displaced.

Tank mates are not an option. Most Red Devils end up as solo fish because they attack and kill everything else in the tank. Some keepers have success with similarly-sized aggressive cichlids in very large tanks (150+ gallons), but this is the exception, not the rule.

They bite. Red Devils will bite your hand during water changes and maintenance. This is not playful nipping. They have strong jaws and it hurts. Use caution or tools during tank maintenance.

They need massive filtration. A 12 inch Red Devil produces an enormous amount of waste. You need canister filtration rated for at least double your tank size, and water changes of 30 to 50 percent weekly are mandatory, not optional.

Biggest Mistake New Red Devil Cichlid Owners Make

Buying one as a juvenile and thinking you can keep it with other fish. That cute 3 inch baby will be an 12 inch tank terror within a year, and by then your other fish are already dead or traumatized.

Expert Take

If you want a Red Devil, plan for a 75 gallon species-only tank from day one. Invest in a canister filter rated for twice the tank volume. Accept that this is a solo pet fish with a personality closer to a dog than a typical aquarium fish. If that sounds like your kind of challenge, a Red Devil will not disappoint.

Fish Species Overview

Classification

Origins

The red devil cichlid is native to Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua, two large freshwater lakes in the Central American country of Nicaragua. These Nicaraguan lakes provide naturally warm waters throughout the year.

These feisty fish have been introduced to a few places in the world, and wild populations exist in Florida and Hawaii today.

Appearance

The red devil cichlid is a large, attractive freshwater fish that comes in a range of colors. Wild fish are often gray or dark brown but specimens in the aquarium trade stand out with white, yellow, orange, and even bright red shades.

They may be a single color or a combination, with many fish having attractive spots and patterns. Many specimens change color as they mature, so a full-grown adult may look quite different from when you first bought it.

Male red devil fish are larger than females and develop a pronounced bump (nuchal hump) above their heads. Red devils are characterized by their large, thick lips, although this feature is much more pronounced in wild-caught fish.

Red devil cichlids have large dorsal and anal fins that end in a sharp point, sometimes extending to the end of their fan-shaped tails.

The red devil cichlid is easily confused with another popular Central American species known as the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus). However, the red devil grows larger and have thicker lips.

How Big Can They Get?

The red devil cichlid is a large, heavily built fish. Adults can measure 12 to 15 inches when fully grown, and males are the larger sex.

Red devil cichlids are often sold at just an inch or two, but they grow to reach adult size in just three years or so.

How Long Do They Live?

The red devil cichlid can live for over ten years with good care. Their average lifespan is about 10 to 12 years, making them a similar commitment to the average dog.

These fish will live longest if given plenty of tank space, high water quality, and a healthy, balanced diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feeding your red devil cichlid is one of the easiest aspects of its care. These true omnivores eat insect larvae, snails, small fish, and plant material in nature.

Captive specimens are not fussy, and high-quality cichlid pellets are the best option for their daily needs, although young red devil cichlids will eagerly accept tropical fish flakes.

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Supplement the red devil cichlid diet with the following foods to improve their general condition:

• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Peas
• Lettuce
• Spinach

Live Foods

Live foods provide a great natural source of nutrition for your red devil cichlid. These fish regularly hunt live prey in nature, so they certainly have that killer instinct. Live foods like earthworms, crickets, and cockroaches are great choices.

How Often and How Much to Feed them

Feed your red devil cichlid at least twice each day, providing only as much food as your fish will eat. Remove any uneaten food before it spoils in your tank water.

Red devil cichlids is excitable around mealtimes, and they will often crash into the hood of your aquarium when taking food from the surface. Make sure your lid is securely fitted and solidly built.

Weigh down lightweight hoods to keep them securely in place, and take care when feeding these fish, as an accidental bite is pretty painful.

Temperament and Behavior

The red devil cichlid is an aggressive fish, and they aren’t called devils for nothing! However, these colorful cichlids make wonderful pets that love to interact with their owners.

Nevertheless, many specimens will bite the hand that feeds them, and larger fish can easily draw blood. In extreme cases, you need to use a divider to keep your fish to one side when performing tank maintenance.

Red devils are not fish you can add to a community aquarium. These guys need careful planning and a tank that is designed around their needs. However, it is possible to keep them with some other fish types.

Continue reading to learn about the best red devil cichlid tank mates.

Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates

Choosing tank mates for your red devil cichlid is challenging because these fish are just so aggressive. It is best to keep them in a species-only tank because they have such great personalities that you don’t need any others.

Nevertheless, multi-fish tanks are possible, but you should always have a plan B in case things don’t work out. Keeping your red devil cichlid with other fish will require an enormous aquarium, so consider the size and weight of a 180 + gallon aquarium before committing to this kind of setup.

Best Tank Mates For Them

It is possible to keep these fish with other red devil cichlids when they are young, but they will become increasingly aggressive as they mature. Introducing all the tank mates when they are young is the best chance of creating a harmonious fish tank, but there are no guarantees when it comes to the red devil.

Some freshwater fish have lived side by side with the red devil cichlid. Plecos are one of them, although these bottom feeders will become strictly nocturnal to stay out of the red devil’s way.

Other possible options are large cichlids like Jack Dempseys, Texas, Midas, and jaguar cichlids, but again, having a spare tank is important if things go wrong.

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Most fish will not get along with the red devil cichlid. Smaller fish may be eaten, while others may be attacked and killed.

Red devil cichlids become particularly aggressive when breeding. They will kill any other fish in their tank during this time.

Care

Red devil cichlids are not ideal for beginner aquarists. That being said, their care is relatively straightforward for more experienced fishkeepers, especially if you start out with the right tank setup.

Read on to learn more about red devil cichlid care, their tank size, and setup needs.

Tank Requirements

The red devil cichlid needs a large aquarium with stable decorations, a secure hood, and a fine sand substrate. Keep reading for more information.

Tank Size

Red devil cichlids are large fish that need plenty of room. You can start out with a 55-gallon tank, but a 75-gallon setup will be best for a single fish in the long run. You could also keep a pair in this size tank, but stepping up to a larger size is a better bet.

Setup

Keeping red devil cichlids is all about the fish, so don’t design a complicated aquascape. These fish rearrange their tank regularly, so choosing the right decor is very important.

Decor

Providing a cave or shelter is a great way to ensure your fish has a place to relax and feel secure. However, safety is a very important consideration when choosing decorations for red devil cichlids.

These fish love to dig, and they can destabilize rock piles and driftwood arrangements, causing them to collapse. This will cause injury to your fish or even crack your aquarium!

Avoid placing decorations on top of deep sand. If you don’t want to make a rock arrangement for your fish, secure each component with an aquarium and fish-safe epoxy.

Substrate

A fine sand substrate is ideal because it will allow your fish to dig without scratching or injuring themselves.

Live Plants

Red devil cichlids are not recommended for a planted aquarium because they are notorious for tearing up all sorts of aquatic plants.

Water Quality And Filtration

Maintaining high water quality is essential in any aquarium; your red devil tank is no exception.

Filtration & Aeration

Powerful filtration is vital when keeping these large and messy fish. Red devils is hard on aquarium equipment like filters and heaters, so external hardware is often the best choice. Canister filters with integrated heaters (or you can get an in-line heater) are a great option because they limit the amount of hardware that your red devil cichlid can reach.

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A sump system is recommended for larger tanks. Larger hang-on back and internal power filters do not have enough to capacity to house adult cichlids. Their activity will also damage internal filters and sponge filters.

Red devil cichlids are native to stillwater environments, so aim for moderate water movement to avoid stressing your fish. Although it’s not essential, an airstone or two will increase aeration in your red devil cichlid tank and increase the activity levels of your fish.

Water Parameters

Red devil cichlids is kept in water with a pH of 6 to 8, although right around neutral is preferred. Ideal temperatures range from about 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and they will thrive in water hardness of 6 to 25 dGH.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is essential for keeping your red devil cichlid tank looking great and keeping your fish in excellent health.

Perform a 25-30% water change on your aquarium each week to reduce the build-up of nitrates in your water. This is also a great time to clean up your glass, vacuum up waste from the substrate, and perform any maintenance on your equipment.

Testing Tank Conditions

The only way to really know what’s going on in your water chemistry is to test regularly. Red devil cichlids can survive in a reasonable range of water parameters, but you should strive to maintain stable conditions in your tank.

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Pick up a test kit that can monitor the following important parameters:

• Nitrates (NO3)
• Nitrites (NO2)
• Ammonia (NH3 & NH4+)
• pH
• GH
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Breeding

Breeding red devil cichlids is easy – just make sure you’ll be able to find homes for all the young freshwater fish before you start!

Sexing

The first step toward breeding red devil cichlids is to acquire a breeding pair. Fortunately, adult red devil cichlids are easy to sex. The male red devil cichlid is bigger (up to 15 inches) and has a bigger nuchal hump. Females max out at about 10 inches and have a lighter build and a flatter forehead.

However, forming a pair is easier said than done since males can kill females if they don’t hit it off. Growing out a few young red devils in a large tank and allowing a pair to form naturally is one safe technique, but the other fish will need to be removed for their safety.

These fish can reach spawning age when they are about 6 inches long if healthy and well-conditioned.

Conditioning

Your fish should be in excellent condition before starting your breeding project. Pay extra attention to their water quality through frequent maintenance and provide plenty of live and frozen foods.

Raising the tank temperature to 75 – 78 degrees, Fahrenheit can trigger spawning since this replicates the natural temperature increase in their breeding season.

The Breeding Process

Red devil cichlids spawn on hard, level surfaces like a flat rock, or the walls or ceiling of a cave. The female will lay hundreds of eggs which the male then fertilizes.

The fertilized eggs will begin to hatch after about three days and will be closely guarded by the adult fish. After hatching, the young fry will be moved to a hole in the substrate and become free swimming within another week or so.

Males becomes aggressive toward female red devil cichlids at this point, so make sure you include a few secure hiding places and caves that are too small to fit the male. A divider is necessary.

Caring for Fry

Red devils are large fish, and you can expect a lot of babies after a successful spawn. Be prepared to see 300 to 800 red devil cichlid fry! The fry gets all the nutrients they need from their yolk sac, but they will require food after their fourth or fifth day.

Baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes are great starter foods for these fish. You can feed the fry directly using a turkey baster or a large syringe with some airline tubing.

The adult fish (video source) are very protective over their fry, although you can move the baby fish to their own tank to avoid any chance of them being eaten by their parents. Move the female to her own tank, if you choose to separate the fry as this can trigger extra aggression from the male.

Health And Disease

Red devil cichlids are not particularly prone to health problems, and they are relatively trouble-free if maintained in good conditions. Like any fish species, they are most likely to develop problems when stressed by poor water quality, inappropriate food, or conflict with other fish.

Evaluating their Health

The best way to monitor your fish’s health is to observe their physical appearance and behavior. Make the time to watch your fish for a few minutes in the morning and evening each day, and pay attention to any noticeable changes.

Healthy fish have vibrant colors, complete fins that are not held clamped against the body, and a healthy appearance without sores or wounds.

Buoyancy issues like floating or sinking are something to watch out for, as well as low activity levels and a lack of appetite.

Common Health Issues

Red devil cichlids can contract various illnesses that commonly affect freshwater fish species. Consult your veterinarian for more information on treating illnesses in your fish.

• Ich

Ich or white spot disease is one of the most common illnesses that affect freshwater fish, and it is serious if left untreated. This parasitic infection is caused by protozoa and often flares up in stressed fish.

Ich is treated with aquarium salt, heat treatments, or specially formulated medications like ich-X.

• Fungal infections

Fungal infections can cause fluffy growths on your fish’s skin, gills, and fins. This form of illness often arises from poor water conditions, so a targeted treatment with antifungal medication and better aquarium hygiene are recommended for the best results.

• Physical injuries from fighting

Red devil cichlids have an aggressive nature, and they are often kept with other aggressive freshwater fish. Fights happen, and these powerful cichlids can easily damage each other with their powerful jaws and sharp teeth.

It’s very important to have a spare fish tank available if you keep red devil cichlids with other fish, even of the same species. Separate your fish immediately if you see signs of serious aggression and treat their wounds when necessary.

• Bacterial infections

Fish are susceptible to many bacterial infections, particularly when injured or kept in poor water quality conditions. These infections is treated with antibiotics, available online, from aquarium stores, or from your local veterinarian.

Where To Buy

Red devil cichlids are very affordable if bought young. You can find these aggressive cichlid species online or at many aquarium stores. Unfortunately, red devils often hybridize with other cichlid species like Midas and Texas, so buy from a reputable breeder to be sure your fish are purebred.

FAQs

Is the Red Devil Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

• Only for experienced keepers who understand extreme aggression. This is not a fish for beginners or anyone who hasn’t managed aggressive cichlids before.
• Need 75 gallons minimum for a single fish. A pair requires 125+ gallons, and even then, the female need to be separated during non-breeding periods.
• Incredible personality and intelligence. Red devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish and develop strong bonds with their owners.
• Best kept as a solo species. Tank mates are possible but risky. Even large, tough fish can be injured or killed.
• Will rearrange everything. Decorations, substrate, heaters, filter intakes. Nothing is safe from a determined red devil.
• Long-lived commitment. Healthy red devils can live 12-15 years, so be ready for the long haul.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Red Devil Cichlid

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They have enormous personality. Red Devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish. They recognize their owner, beg for food, and will display for you constantly. Some keepers describe them as underwater dogs.

Feeding time is an event. A hungry Red Devil does not wait politely. It splashes, rams the glass, and makes itself impossible to ignore. Feeding this fish is entertaining and occasionally wet.

They rearrange the entire tank. Gravel mountains, dug-out caves, displaced decorations. Your aquascape is a suggestion, not a reality, when a Red Devil lives there.

Aggression is constant, not occasional. This is not a fish that gets aggressive during breeding and calms down afterward. Red Devils are aggressive all the time. Every day. That is their baseline personality.

How the Red Devil Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

Red devils are constantly compared to flowerhorns, partly because they’re one of the parent species used in flowerhorn creation. In terms of aggression, they’re roughly equal. Both are among the most aggressive freshwater aquarium fish. Flowerhorns are flashier with their pronounced nuchal hump and iridescent coloring, while red devils have a more natural, wild-caught aesthetic. Red devils is successfully bred in captivity as a pure species, which is something flowerhorns can’t match. If you value authenticity and want to work with a real species, the red devil is the choice. If you want maximum visual drama, the flowerhorn edges ahead.

The Jack Dempsey is another large Central American cichlid that gets compared to red devils, but they’re in different leagues of aggression. Jack Dempseys are assertive but manageable in a well-planned community tank. Red devils will dominate and potentially injure any tank mate regardless of size. If you like the idea of a big, tough Central American cichlid but want more flexibility with tank mates, the Jack Dempsey is the safer choice.

Final Thoughts

A red devil does not share territory. It eliminates competition.

The red devil cichlid is not for everyone. However, If you want a feisty, aggressive, and exciting pet that loves to interact, it is the perfect option for you! Just make sure you read through this guide carefully before adopting one of these amazing cichlids from Central America.

Do you keep red devil cichlids? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

Table of Contents

• An Overview Of The Fish Species
• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong
• Classification
• Origin And Habitat
• The Definition Of Hatchetfish 
• Characteristics 
• What Are The Different Types?
• Common Hatchetfish Care
• Aquarium Setup 
• Tank Size
• Water Parameters
• Filtration And Aeration 
• Lighting
• Aquatic Plants and Decorations
• Tank Maintenance
• Substrate
• What People Get Wrong
• Community Tank Mates 
• What Do They Eat?
• Breeding
• Fish Diseases
• FAQs
• Final Thoughts
• Recommended Video
• Is the Hatchetfish Right for You?
• Species Comparison
• The Reality of Keeping Hatchetfish
• What It Is Actually Like Living With Hatchetfish

Hatchetfish are the only freshwater fish that can genuinely fly. They launch themselves out of the water using powerful pectoral muscles, and they will do it right out of your tank if you give them the chance. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. It is the single non-negotiable requirement for keeping any hatchetfish species.

Hatchetfish fly. Your lid is either tight or your fish is on the floor. There is no in-between.

The Reality of Keeping Hatchetfish

The jumping is not a behavior problem. It is instinct. In the wild, hatchetfish jump to escape predators and catch flying insects. In your tank, any sudden disturbance, a loud noise, a fast-moving hand near the glass, or a startled tank mate can trigger a jump. A lid is not optional. It is the most critical piece of equipment for this species.

They are strict surface dwellers. Hatchetfish spend virtually all their time at the surface. They do not explore the middle or bottom of the tank. This makes them perfect for filling the top layer of a community setup, but it also means surface agitation from filters or airstones stresses them. They need calm water.

They are more sensitive than most tetras. Hatchetfish are wild-caught more often than tank-bred, and they are more sensitive to water quality fluctuations than common community tetras. Stable parameters and gentle acclimation are essential. They are not a good choice for new or unstable tanks.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Not having a proper lid. I cannot stress this enough. Hatchetfish will find gaps you did not know existed. Every opening around filter intakes, heater cords, or airline tubing needs to be sealed.

Key Takeaways

• Hatchetfish get their name from their unique ‘Hatchet-like’ body shape.
• It is a peaceful community fish that enjoys the company of at least 6 to 12 fish. 
• They are the only true flying fish with large pectoral muscles that work like wings.
• Many species of hatchetfish have bioluminescence with their own pattern of lights in order to communicate, attract prey, and camouflage.