I’ve been keeping aquariums for over 25 years — freshwater community tanks, a 65-gallon planted display, and a 125-gallon reef — and the thing that separates thriving tanks from struggling ones almost always comes down to consistent care fundamentals, not fancy equipment. I’ve also served as technical editor for both Freshwater Aquarium For Dummies and Saltwater Aquarium For Dummies, which gave me a deep appreciation for getting the basics right. This guide is my complete breakdown of aquarium care: everything you need to maintain a healthy tank long-term, regardless of your experience level.
Aquarium care fundamentals every fishkeeper should know.
Understanding water chemistry is the foundation of good aquarium care. Fish are entirely dependent on their water, and even small swings in pH, hardness, or dissolved waste can trigger stress, disease, and death. Regular testing and knowing how to adjust parameters keeps your tank stable and your livestock thriving.
pH, Hardness & Alkalinity
Most freshwater fish do well in a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5, but what matters most is consistency. Fluctuating pH is far more dangerous than a reading slightly outside the ideal range. General hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) act as buffers that prevent pH crashes. If your KH is too low, your pH can plummet overnight.
Ammonia is the silent killer in aquariums. Even trace amounts (0.25 ppm) damage gill tissue and suppress immune function. Temperature stability is equally critical, as most tropical species need water between 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit with minimal daily fluctuation.
Every new aquarium must go through the nitrogen cycle before it is safe for fish. Beneficial bacteria colonize your filter media and substrate, converting toxic ammonia into nitrite and then into far less harmful nitrate. Skipping this step is the number one reason beginners lose fish in the first month. A proper fishless cycle takes four to six weeks but pays dividends in livestock survival.
Aquarium Substrate Guide – How substrate choice affects biological filtration and aquarium care.
Maintenance & Cleaning
Routine maintenance is the most important habit in aquarium care. Weekly water changes dilute nitrates, remove dissolved organics, and replenish trace minerals. Gravel vacuuming pulls decaying food and waste from the substrate before it breaks down into ammonia. A consistent schedule prevents the slow water quality decline that causes chronic stress.
How to Clean a Fish Tank – A complete step-by-step cleaning routine for glass, gravel, and filter media.
Even well-maintained aquariums encounter problems. Cloudy water, algae outbreaks, and unexplained fish deaths are issues that nearly every hobbyist faces at some point. The key to effective aquarium care is diagnosing the root cause quickly rather than masking symptoms. Most problems trace back to overfeeding, overstocking, or inconsistent maintenance.
Algae thrive when light and nutrients are out of balance. Identifying the specific type of algae tells you exactly which parameter to adjust. Brown diatoms signal a new tank, green hair algae points to excess light, and white fuzzy growth often indicates decaying organic matter.
Proper feeding is one of the simplest yet most misunderstood aspects of aquarium care. Overfeeding is the leading cause of poor water quality in home aquariums. Most fish need only what they can consume in two to three minutes, once or twice a day. A varied diet that includes high-quality pellets, frozen foods, and the occasional vegetable keeps fish healthy and colorful.
Disease prevention is always easier than treatment. Quarantining new arrivals, maintaining pristine water, and avoiding stress are the three pillars of fish health. When illness does strike, accurate identification is critical because bacterial, fungal, and parasitic infections all require different medications. Uninvited hitchhikers like planaria and detritus worms are usually harmless but signal overfeeding or excess organic waste.
Understanding basic fish behavior helps you spot problems early and provide better aquarium care. A fish that hides constantly, refuses food, or gasps at the surface is sending distress signals. Knowing what is normal for your species allows you to act before a small issue becomes a crisis.
Starting a new aquarium is exciting, but choosing the right fish makes or breaks the experience. Hardy, peaceful community species are the best choice for beginners. Use a compatibility chart before mixing species, and resist the urge to overstock. A lightly stocked tank is far easier to maintain and far more forgiving of the mistakes every new fishkeeper makes.
Whether you are cycling your first tank or troubleshooting a stubborn algae bloom, the guides above cover every core aspect of aquarium care. Bookmark this page and revisit it as your skills and setup evolve. For additional perspectives, the FishLore community and Seriously Fish species profiles are excellent external resources to complement your learning.
Over 25 years in this hobby, I’ve bought, tested, and in some cases returned more aquarium equipment than I can count. I’ve served as a technical editor for both Freshwater Aquarium For Dummies and Saltwater Aquarium For Dummies, and a big part of that work was understanding what gear actually matters versus what’s marketing noise. This guide is my comprehensive breakdown of every major category of aquarium equipment — what to prioritize, what to splurge on, and where you can save money without sacrificing results.
Over 25 years in this hobby, I’ve bought, tested, and in some cases returned more aquarium equipment than I can count. I’ve served as a technical editor for both Freshwater Aquarium For Dummies and Saltwater Aquarium For Dummies, and a big part of that work was understanding what gear actually matters versus what’s marketing noise. This guide is my comprehensive breakdown of every major category of aquarium equipment — what to prioritize, what to splurge on, and where you can save money without sacrificing results.
Filtration is the backbone of every successful aquarium and the single most important category of aquarium equipment you will invest in. A good filter provides mechanical filtration to remove debris, biological filtration to process toxic ammonia and nitrite, and often chemical filtration to polish the water. The best filter for your setup depends on tank size, stocking level, and whether you keep freshwater or saltwater. From compact sponge filters for nano tanks to powerful canister filters for large aquariums and protein skimmers for reef systems, there is a solution for every situation.
Best Canister Filters — In-depth reviews of the top canister filters for freshwater and saltwater tanks, with flow rate and media comparisons.
Best Aquarium Power Filters — Our top hang-on-back (HOB) filter picks for reliable, easy-to-maintain filtration across all tank sizes.
Best Internal Aquarium Filters — Compact internal filters ideal for smaller tanks, quarantine setups, and supplemental filtration.
Best Sponge Filters — Gentle, effective biological filtration perfect for shrimp tanks, fry rearing, and betta aquariums.
Best Aquarium Sumps & Refugiums — Top sump systems for serious hobbyists who want maximum filtration capacity and equipment concealment.
Best Overflow Boxes — How to safely move water from your display tank to a sump using hang-on or internal overflow boxes.
Best Protein Skimmers — Essential foam fractionation for saltwater and reef tanks — our tested and reviewed picks.
Do Betta Fish Need a Filter? — Why filtration matters even for bettas, plus the best low-flow filter options for betta tanks.
Fish Tank Filter Not Working — Troubleshooting common filter problems, from reduced flow to strange noises and leaks.
Algae Scrubber vs. The World — How algae scrubbers compare to reactors, biopellets, GFO, and refugiums for nutrient export.
Heating & Cooling
Stable temperature is one of the most important factors in fishkeeping, making heaters essential aquarium equipment in fish health. Most tropical fish thrive between 76–82°F, while coldwater species and certain marine organisms have their own requirements. A reliable heater prevents dangerous temperature swings, and an aquarium chiller keeps tanks cool in warm climates or under intense reef lighting. Investing in quality temperature control equipment prevents stress, disease, and loss.
Best Aquarium Heaters — Our tested and reviewed picks for submersible, inline, and titanium heaters across all tank sizes.
Best Aquarium Chillers — Top-rated chillers for keeping tank temperatures stable in warm environments and high-light setups.
Lighting
Aquarium lighting does far more than illuminate your tank — it drives photosynthesis in corals and plants, enhances fish coloration, and sets the visual mood of your aquascape. Modern LED fixtures offer programmable spectrums, sunrise/sunset ramps, and energy efficiency that older technologies cannot match. Choosing the right light depends on what you are growing and how deep your tank runs.
Best LED Lighting for Reef Tanks — Top-rated reef lights with the PAR output and spectrum needed to grow SPS, LPS, and soft corals.
Water Movement & Circulation
Proper water movement distributes heat, oxygen, and nutrients throughout your aquarium while preventing dead spots where detritus accumulates. Reef tanks in particular rely on wavemakers and powerheads to simulate ocean currents that corals need for nutrient uptake and waste removal. Even freshwater setups benefit from gentle circulation that keeps water oxygenated and well-mixed.
Best Aquarium Wavemakers — Tested and reviewed wavemakers and powerheads for creating natural flow patterns in reef and freshwater tanks.
Best Aquarium Return Pumps — Reliable return pumps for sump-based systems, rated by flow, noise level, and energy efficiency.
Best Aquarium Air Pumps — Top picks for quiet, powerful air pumps that drive sponge filters, air stones, and decorations.
What Are Aquarium Air Stones? — How air stones work, why they matter for oxygenation, and which types deliver the finest bubbles.
Best Aquarium Dosing Pumps — Automated dosing pumps for precise delivery of supplements, fertilizers, and trace elements.
Water Quality & Monitoring
You cannot manage what you cannot measure, which is why monitoring aquarium equipment is so valuable. Test kits, controllers, and automated systems help you stay on top of water chemistry — catching problems before they become emergencies. For saltwater hobbyists, RO/DI systems produce pure water free of chlorine, heavy metals, and silicates, while auto-top-off systems prevent salinity swings caused by evaporation. Advanced aquarium controllers tie everything together, monitoring and adjusting parameters automatically.
Best Aquarium Test Kits — Reviews of liquid, strip, and digital test kits for monitoring ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, and more.
Best Aquarium UV Sterilizers — How UV sterilizers eliminate free-floating algae, parasites, and bacteria for clearer, healthier water.
Best RO/DI Systems — Top reverse osmosis deionization systems for producing ultra-pure water for reef and sensitive freshwater tanks.
Best Auto Top-Off Systems — Automatic evaporation replacement to maintain stable salinity and water levels in your aquarium.
Best Aquarium Controllers — All-in-one monitoring and automation hubs that track pH, temperature, ORP, and control your equipment.
Best Reef Salt Mixes — Our top salt mix picks for consistent water chemistry in saltwater and reef aquariums.
Tanks & Stands
Choosing the right tank is the very first piece of aquarium equipment and the equipment decision you will make — and one that affects everything that follows. Tank size determines stocking options, filtration needs, and overall stability (larger volumes are more forgiving). Whether you want a compact nano tank for your desk, a standard rectangular aquarium for the living room, or a showpiece rimless tank for a modern aquascape, there are excellent options at every price point.
Aquarium Sizes Guide — A complete reference for standard aquarium dimensions, weights, and gallon capacities from nano to jumbo.
Types of Fish Tanks — The top 10 aquarium styles you can keep, from traditional glass to acrylic, bowfront, and all-in-one setups.
Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks — Top compact aquariums for bettas, shrimp, and nano setups where space is limited.
Best 10 Gallon Fish Tanks — The sweet spot for beginners — our reviewed picks for 10-gallon starter tanks and kits.
Best 20 Gallon Fish Tanks — Versatile mid-size tanks with enough volume for community fish, planted setups, and more.
Best 75 Gallon Aquariums — Large-format tanks for serious hobbyists who want room for bigger fish and elaborate aquascapes.
100 Gallon Fish Tanks — What to know before buying a 100-gallon aquarium, including weight, stand requirements, and top picks.
125 Gallon Aquariums — The best 125-gallon tanks for freshwater monsters, large cichlids, and impressive reef builds.
Best Rimless Aquariums — Sleek, modern rimless tanks that showcase your aquascape with unobstructed views.
Best Nano Reef Tanks — All-in-one nano reef setups perfect for keeping corals and marine fish in small spaces.
Aquarium Stand Selection Guide — Five essential things to know before choosing a stand, including weight capacity and materials.
The finishing touches and decorative aquarium equipment make your setup uniquely yours. Backgrounds hide equipment and cords while adding depth, decorations provide shelter and visual interest, and creative tank ideas inspire your next build. Whether you prefer a natural look or a themed setup, the right accessories bring your vision to life.
Best Aquarium Backgrounds — Our top picks for adhesive, printed, and 3D backgrounds that transform the look of any tank.
Best Aquarium Decorations — Artificial vs. natural decor — reviews of the best ornaments, caves, and structures for fish tanks.
Fish Tank Ideas — Over 30 inspiring tank setups across freshwater, saltwater, and creative themed aquariums.
Pond Equipment
Outdoor ponds need specialized aquarium equipment built to handle larger water volumes, weather exposure, and seasonal temperature changes. From de-icers that keep a hole in winter ice for gas exchange to solar-powered pumps that circulate water without running up the electricity bill, the right pond gear keeps your outdoor fish healthy year-round.
Best Pond Heaters & De-Icers — Top picks for keeping your pond ice-free through winter, protecting fish from trapped gases.
Best Solar Powered Pond Pumps — Eco-friendly, energy-free circulation pumps powered by sunlight for garden ponds and water features.
Aquarium Equipment Resources & Further Reading
Whether you are setting up your first aquarium or upgrading an established system, the right equipment makes the difference between a tank that merely survives and one that truly thrives. This guide connects you to over 40 expert reviews and buying guides covering every major category of aquarium gear. Bookmark this page as your go-to resource, and explore the articles that match your setup and goals.
A planted tank transforms an ordinary aquarium into a living underwater garden. Whether you are drawn to lush Dutch-style layouts bursting with color, minimalist Iwagumi rockscapes, or a simple low-tech setup with a few hardy species, aquatic plants bring beauty, balance, and biological filtration to every freshwater aquarium. This guide is your central resource for everything planted-tank — from choosing your first beginner plants and mastering aquascaping styles to dialing in CO2, lighting, substrates, and keeping algae under control.
Setting up a planted tank involves more than just dropping a few plants into water. Success starts with understanding the fundamentals — choosing the right tank size, selecting an appropriate substrate, establishing proper lighting, and learning how water chemistry affects plant growth. Whether you are converting an existing aquarium or building a new setup from scratch, a solid foundation makes all the difference.
Water quality plays a crucial role in plant health. Most aquarium plants thrive in slightly acidic to neutral water (pH 6.5–7.5) with moderate hardness, though many species adapt to a range of conditions. Understanding how your tap water interacts with plants — and when to supplement — gives you a significant head start.
Planted Aquarium Setup Guide — Step-by-step walkthrough for building your first planted tank, from substrate layering to planting techniques and initial cycling.
Aquarium Water for Plants — How water parameters like pH, GH, KH, and temperature affect plant growth, plus tips for optimizing your water chemistry.
Popular Aquarium Plant Species
Aquarium plants come in an incredible range of shapes, sizes, and colors — from tiny carpeting species that hug the substrate to towering stem plants that sway in the current. Learning which plants work best in each zone of your aquascape (foreground, midground, and background) is the key to creating a balanced, visually striking planted tank.
Beginner-Friendly Plants
New to the hobby? Start with hardy, forgiving species that tolerate a range of lighting and water conditions. These plants grow well without CO2 injection and rarely suffer from nutrient deficiencies, making them ideal for learning the basics of aquatic plant care.
Best Beginner Aquarium Plants — Our top picks for easy-care species that thrive in low-tech setups, including Java Fern, Anubias, and more.
Foreground & Carpet Plants
Carpet plants create a lush green lawn across the bottom of your tank — one of the most sought-after looks in aquascaping. These low-growing species spread horizontally through runners or creeping stems. Most carpet plants benefit from high light and CO2 injection, though a few species manage in moderate conditions.
Dwarf Hairgrass Care Guide — How to grow and carpet Eleocharis parvula, including lighting, substrate, and trimming advice.
Monte Carlo Plant Guide — Care tips for Micranthemum tweediei, a popular carpeting plant that works in moderate to high light.
Dwarf Sagittaria Care Guide — A grass-like foreground plant that tolerates a wide range of conditions and spreads quickly.
Best Aquarium Carpet Plants — A roundup of the top carpeting species and how to achieve a full, healthy carpet in your tank.
Midground Plants
Midground plants bridge the gap between your foreground carpet and taller background species. They add depth and dimension to an aquascape. Many midground favorites are slow-growing epiphytes — plants that attach to rocks and driftwood rather than rooting in substrate — making them versatile and low-maintenance.
Anubias Nana Care Guide — One of the hardiest aquarium plants available, perfect for attaching to hardscape in low-light setups.
Cryptocoryne Wendtii Care Guide — A versatile crypt with bronze, green, and red varieties that thrives in most tank conditions.
Bucephalandra Care Guide — An increasingly popular epiphyte prized for its unique leaf textures and slow, compact growth.
Java Fern Care Guide — The classic beginner epiphyte — attach it to wood or stone and watch it flourish in almost any setup.
Background & Stem Plants
Tall background plants add height and movement to your aquascape, creating a living backdrop that frames the rest of your layout. Stem plants grow quickly and often display vibrant colors under high light, while rosette species like Amazon Swords and Vallisneria produce dramatic, flowing leaves. Regular trimming keeps them in shape and encourages bushier growth.
Vallisneria Care Guide — How to grow and propagate this graceful, ribbon-leaved background plant that thrives in almost any tank.
Amazon Sword Care Guide — Complete care for Echinodorus species — a large rosette plant that makes a stunning centerpiece.
Ludwigia Repens Care Guide — A colorful stem plant that shifts from green to deep red under higher light intensity.
Water Sprite Care Guide — A fast-growing, feathery plant that works planted in substrate or floating at the surface.
Water Wisteria Care Guide — An easy, fast-growing stem plant with lacy leaves that helps absorb excess nutrients.
Tall Aquarium Plants — Top picks for large aquariums, including species that can reach 20 inches or more.
Floating Plants
Floating plants rest on the water surface, drawing nutrients directly from the water column. They provide shade for fish that prefer subdued lighting, reduce algae by competing for nutrients, and offer cover for fry and surface-dwelling species. Most floaters grow rapidly and need regular thinning to prevent them from blocking all light to plants below.
Amazon Frogbit Care Guide — A popular floating plant with round, lily-pad-like leaves and dangling roots that fish love.
Best Floating Aquarium Plants — Our top floating species, from Duckweed to Red Root Floaters, with pros and cons of each.
Aquarium Mosses
Mosses are among the most versatile plants in aquascaping. They attach to rocks, driftwood, and mesh to create lush green walls, carpets, and tree-like structures. Mosses thrive in lower light, grow slowly enough to maintain their shape, and provide excellent grazing surfaces for shrimp and micro-organisms.
Java Moss Care Guide — The most popular aquarium moss — easy to grow, attach, and propagate in any tank.
Christmas Moss Care Guide — Named for its triangular frond pattern, this moss creates beautiful overlapping layers on hardscape.
Flame Moss Care Guide — A unique upward-growing moss that creates a flickering flame effect on driftwood.
Marimo Moss Ball Guide — Care tips for these iconic velvety green spheres, including rolling, lighting, and water conditions.
Types of Aquarium Moss — A comprehensive guide to the most popular moss species used in aquascaping.
Plant Roundups & Lists
Looking for the perfect plant for a specific situation? Our curated roundup articles group plants by color, light requirements, tank size, and more — helping you find exactly what you need for your setup.
Freshwater Aquarium Plants — A broad overview of popular freshwater plant species, organized by difficulty and placement.
Not every plant works in every tank. Some fish nibble on delicate leaves, others uproot plants while digging, and certain species need plants tough enough to handle their environment. Matching plants to your inhabitants ensures both your fish and your greenery thrive together. These guides help you pick the best species for popular tank types.
Best Plants for Betta Fish — Soft, broad-leaved plants that bettas love to rest on and explore, from Anubias to floating species.
Best Plants for Shrimp Tanks — Mosses, carpeting plants, and dense foliage that provide grazing surfaces and hiding spots for shrimp colonies.
Best Plants for Goldfish — Tough, fast-growing species that can survive goldfish nibbling and uprooting habits.
Best Plants for Cichlid Tanks — Hardy plants that tolerate the digging behavior and water preferences of popular cichlid species.
Best Fish for Planted Aquariums — The most plant-friendly fish species that complement a planted tank without damaging your aquascape.
Aquascaping Styles & Design
Aquascaping is the art of designing underwater landscapes — combining plants, rocks, driftwood, and open space to create scenes that range from wild nature-inspired jungles to meticulously trimmed formal gardens. Each style follows different principles of layout, plant selection, and hardscape placement. Exploring these styles helps you develop your own aesthetic and plan layouts that look intentional rather than random.
Aquascape Aquarium Guide — An introduction to aquascaping fundamentals, including layout principles, the rule of thirds, and focal points.
Aquascape Ideas & Inspiration — Creative layout concepts and real-world examples to spark your next aquascaping project.
Iwagumi Aquascape Guide — The Japanese stone-arrangement style that emphasizes minimalism, open space, and carefully placed rocks.
Dutch Aquascape Guide — The classic European style focused on dense, colorful plant groupings arranged in terraced rows.
Top Modern Aquascaping Designs — Contemporary approaches to aquascaping that blend traditional techniques with new ideas.
Paludarium Tank Guide — How to build a half-land, half-water setup that combines aquatic and terrestrial plants in one enclosure.
Essential Planted Tank Equipment
Beyond the plants themselves, a successful planted tank depends on the right supporting equipment. Nutrient-rich substrates anchor roots and feed heavy-feeding species, CO2 systems accelerate growth and bring out vivid colors, proper lighting drives photosynthesis, and quality fertilizers fill nutritional gaps. Hardscape materials like rocks and driftwood complete the picture, giving your layout structure and natural beauty.
Substrates
Substrate is the foundation of any planted tank. Active substrates buffer pH, supply essential nutrients to plant roots, and support healthy bacterial colonies. Choosing the right substrate for your plants and aquascaping style makes a noticeable difference in growth rates and long-term success.
Best Substrate for Planted Tanks — Reviews and comparisons of the top planted tank substrates, from ADA Amazonia to Fluval Stratum.
Aquarium Substrate Guide — A complete overview of substrate types — gravel, sand, soil, and inert options — and when to use each.
CO2 Systems
Carbon dioxide is the single biggest growth accelerator in a planted tank. Pressurized CO2 injection lets you grow demanding species, achieve vibrant coloration, and maintain a lush carpet. Even budget DIY setups make a noticeable difference compared to running no CO2 at all.
Plants need more than just light and CO2 — they require a steady supply of macro and micronutrients. Liquid fertilizers, root tabs, and structured dosing methods like the Estimative Index keep your plants fed and prevent deficiency symptoms like yellowing leaves and stunted growth.
Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers — Reviews of top liquid fertilizers and root tabs for both low-tech and high-tech planted tanks.
Estimative Index Dosing Guide — How to use the EI dosing method to ensure your plants never run short of essential nutrients.
Lighting
Light drives photosynthesis — without the right spectrum and intensity, even well-fertilized plants will struggle. Modern LED fixtures offer adjustable color temperatures, programmable schedules, and energy efficiency that make it easier than ever to dial in the perfect lighting for your planted tank.
Best LED Lights for Planted Tanks — Detailed reviews of the top LED fixtures for low-tech, medium-tech, and high-tech planted aquariums.
Hardscape: Rocks & Driftwood
Hardscape — the rocks and wood in your aquascape — forms the skeleton of your layout. The right hardscape defines your design style, creates natural focal points, and provides attachment surfaces for epiphytic plants like Anubias, Bucephalandra, and mosses. Choosing safe, aquarium-appropriate materials is essential to avoid unwanted changes to your water chemistry.
Best Driftwood for Aquariums — Top driftwood types for aquascaping, from Spider Wood to Manzanita, with prep and soaking tips.
Algae Management
Algae is an inevitable part of every planted tank, but it does not have to take over. Understanding the different types of algae, what causes each outbreak, and how to respond with targeted solutions keeps your aquascape looking clean and healthy. A combination of proper lighting duration, balanced nutrients, good water circulation, and biological allies like algae-eating fish and shrimp forms the backbone of effective algae control.
Types of Algae
From slimy green coatings to stubborn black tufts, aquarium algae comes in many forms — each with different causes and solutions. Identifying which algae you are dealing with is the first step toward eliminating it.
Types of Aquarium Algae — A visual identification guide to the most common algae species found in freshwater aquariums.
Common Algae Problems
Certain algae types plague planted tanks more than others. Brown diatoms often appear in new setups, black beard algae thrives in tanks with fluctuating CO2, and hair algae can smother plants if nutrient imbalances go unchecked. These guides walk you through diagnosis and treatment for the most frequent offenders.
Brown Algae in Fish Tanks — What causes diatom blooms, why they are common in new tanks, and how to eliminate them for good.
White Algae in Aquariums — Identifying and treating white or clear algae-like growths, including bacterial biofilms on new driftwood.
Black Algae in Fish Tanks — How to recognize and combat black beard algae (BBA), one of the most stubborn planted tank algae.
How to Get Rid of Hair Algae — Causes, manual removal techniques, and long-term prevention strategies for hair and thread algae.
Algae Eaters
The right cleanup crew makes algae management significantly easier. From tireless Amano shrimp to efficient Siamese Algae Eaters, these biological allies graze on algae around the clock — reaching spots that manual cleaning cannot. Choosing algae eaters that match your tank size, inhabitants, and algae type maximizes their effectiveness.
Best Algae Eaters — A complete roundup of the most effective algae-eating fish, shrimp, and snails for freshwater tanks.
Chinese Algae Eater Guide — Care requirements and behavior notes for Gyrinocheilus aymonieri, including tank size and compatibility.
Siamese Algae Eater Guide — Why SAEs are considered the gold standard for eating black beard algae, plus care and identification tips.
Algae Eaters for Betta Tanks — Peaceful, small algae-eating species that coexist safely with bettas in smaller aquariums.
Algae Eating Fish for Ponds — The best pond-safe species for controlling algae in outdoor water features and garden ponds.
Resources & Further Reading
Building a thriving planted tank is a rewarding journey that combines science, art, and patience. This guide connects you to over 60 in-depth articles covering every aspect of planted aquariums — from your first easy beginner plant to advanced aquascaping techniques and precision nutrient dosing. Bookmark this page as your central hub, explore the topics that interest you most, and enjoy watching your underwater garden flourish.
I’ve been keeping saltwater tanks for over 25 years — from my first fish-only setup to the 125-gallon reef I run today — and this hobby never stops teaching me something new. I’ve personally kept hundreds of saltwater fish species, written as a technical editor for Saltwater Aquarium For Dummies, and built one of the most active aquarium YouTube channels out there. This guide is the culmination of everything I’ve learned: a comprehensive resource for saltwater fish care, reef keeping, and species identification that I keep building on year after year.
Starting a saltwater aquarium is an exciting journey, but it requires more planning and preparation than a typical freshwater setup. From choosing the right tank size to understanding the nitrogen cycle in a marine environment, the decisions you make early on will determine your long-term success. Saltwater tanks demand more precise water parameters, specialized equipment like protein skimmers and powerheads, and a deeper understanding of marine biology. The good news is that with the right guidance, anyone can build a thriving saltwater aquarium.
Our getting started guides walk you through every step of the process, from selecting your first tank to stocking it with compatible fish. Whether you are planning a fish-only setup or a full reef system with corals and invertebrates, these resources will give you the foundation you need.
The diversity of saltwater fish species available to marine aquarists is truly staggering. From tiny gobies that perch on coral heads to large angelfish that patrol the reef, each species brings its own unique colors, behaviors, and care requirements to your tank. Understanding the specific needs of each fish, including tank size, diet, temperament, and reef compatibility, is essential for building a healthy and harmonious marine community.
Below you will find our detailed guides organized by fish family. Each guide covers species identification, care requirements, tank mate compatibility, and expert tips from years of hands-on reef keeping experience.
Clownfish
Clownfish are arguably the most iconic saltwater fish in the hobby. Made famous by popular culture, these hardy and colorful fish are an excellent choice for beginners and experienced reefers alike. Their symbiotic relationship with anemones is one of the most fascinating behaviors you can observe in a home aquarium. With dozens of species and designer varieties available, there is a clownfish to suit every taste and tank size.
Types of Clownfish – A complete guide to clownfish species and designer varieties
Tangs & Surgeonfish
Tangs are among the most popular and visually striking reef fish. Known for their vivid colors and active swimming behavior, these herbivorous fish play an important role in controlling algae growth in reef aquariums. Most tangs require larger tanks due to their active nature and territorial tendencies, so proper planning is essential before adding one to your system.
Types of Tangs – Explore the full range of tang species for your reef
Blue Hippo Tang – Care guide for one of the most popular tangs in the hobby
Marine Angelfish
Marine angelfish are some of the most breathtaking fish you can keep in a saltwater aquarium. Ranging from the compact and reef-safe dwarf angels to the magnificent large species that can grow over a foot long, angelfish offer incredible color and personality. Care requirements vary significantly between species, with some being beginner-friendly and others demanding expert-level attention.
Coral Beauty Angelfish – A popular dwarf angel with stunning purple and orange coloration
Flame Angelfish – One of the most vibrant dwarf angels in the hobby
Emperor Angelfish – A majestic large angel with dramatic color changes from juvenile to adult
Wrasses
Wrasses are a diverse and incredibly useful family of reef fish. Many species are prized for their ability to control pests like flatworms and pyramid snails, while others are valued purely for their brilliant colors and entertaining personalities. From tiny fairy wrasses to larger predatory species, there is a wrasse for nearly every type of marine setup.
Types of Wrasses – A comprehensive overview of wrasse species for reef and fish-only tanks
Six Line Wrasse – A colorful and popular reef-safe wrasse with a bold personality
Blennies & Gobies
Blennies and gobies are the charming personalities of the reef. These smaller fish are packed with character, often perching on rocks and darting between coral heads. Many species serve practical purposes in the aquarium too. Lawnmower blennies are legendary algae grazers, while sand-sifting gobies help keep your substrate clean. Mandarin gobies, with their psychedelic patterns, are among the most visually stunning fish in the entire hobby.
Types of Blennies – Explore the different blenny species available for marine aquariums
Lawnmower Blenny – The ultimate algae-eating machine for your reef tank
Mandarin Goby Care – How to successfully keep one of the most beautiful saltwater fish
Anthias
Anthias are the schooling jewels of the reef. In the wild, they form massive clouds of color above coral formations, and in the home aquarium they bring that same dynamic energy. These active swimmers require frequent feedings and excellent water quality, making them better suited for intermediate to advanced hobbyists. When kept in proper groups, anthias create a stunning display that few other fish can match.
Lyretail Anthias – The most popular and beginner-friendly anthias species
Other Popular Species
Beyond the major fish families, the saltwater hobby offers a wealth of unique and fascinating species. Damselfish are hardy and colorful starter fish. Butterflyfish bring elegance and grace to larger systems. Triggerfish offer bold personalities and striking patterns. Groupers are impressive predators for fish-only setups, and seahorses provide an entirely different kind of marine keeping experience.
Damselfish – Hardy and colorful, but watch out for their territorial attitude
Reef Triggerfish – Bold and intelligent fish with big personalities
Panther Grouper – A stunning predator that grows surprisingly large
Pet Seahorse – A guide to keeping these unique and delicate marine creatures
Coral Care Guide
Corals are the living foundation of any reef aquarium. These fascinating organisms are actually colonies of tiny animals called polyps, and they come in an astonishing array of colors, shapes, and growth forms. Coral keeping adds an entirely new dimension to the saltwater hobby, transforming a fish tank into a living reef ecosystem. While corals have a reputation for being difficult, many species are surprisingly hardy and well-suited for beginners.
Understanding the three main categories of coral, soft corals, LPS (Large Polyp Stony), and SPS (Small Polyp Stony), is essential for planning your reef. Each category has different lighting, flow, and water chemistry requirements. Our coral guides below will help you choose the right species for your experience level and equipment.
Types of Coral Overview
Before diving into specific species, it helps to understand the broad categories of coral and what makes each one unique. Our overview guides cover the differences between soft corals, LPS, and SPS, helping you make informed decisions about which corals to add to your reef.
Types of Coral – A comprehensive breakdown of coral classifications and care levels
Soft Coral Types – The most forgiving corals for beginners and mixed reef tanks
SPS Coral Types – Advanced corals that reward experienced reefers with stunning growth
Beginner Corals
If you are new to coral keeping, starting with forgiving species is the key to long-term success. Beginner-friendly corals tolerate a wider range of water parameters, adapt to various lighting conditions, and are more resilient to the common mistakes that new reefers inevitably make. These guides will help you choose your first corals with confidence.
Beginner Corals – The best first corals for new reef keepers
Soft corals are the most beginner-friendly category of reef coral. Unlike stony corals, they do not build calcium carbonate skeletons, which makes them more flexible and resilient. Many soft corals grow quickly, add beautiful movement to the tank as they sway in the current, and can tolerate less-than-perfect water conditions. Popular soft corals like mushrooms, zoanthids, and green star polyps are staples in reef tanks of all experience levels.
Toadstool Coral Care – A classic leather coral known for its flowing polyps and easy care
Mushroom Coral – Incredibly hardy corals available in a rainbow of colors
Zoanthids – Colorful colonial polyps that are a favorite among collectors
Green Star Polyp Care – A fast-growing soft coral that creates a stunning green carpet
LPS Corals (Large Polyp Stony)
LPS corals strike the perfect balance between the hardiness of soft corals and the visual impact of SPS. These stony corals feature large, fleshy polyps that often display incredible movement and fluorescent colors under blue lighting. Many LPS species like hammer corals, torch corals, and frogspawn are moderately easy to keep and make excellent stepping stones for reefers looking to move beyond soft corals. They do require stable calcium and alkalinity levels to maintain their calcium carbonate skeletons.
Hammer Coral – A showstopping LPS with flowing, hammer-shaped tentacles
Torch Coral – Long sweeper tentacles and brilliant color make this a reef centerpiece
Frogspawn Coral – Closely related to hammer and torch with distinctive bubble-tipped tentacles
Duncan Coral – A fast-growing and forgiving LPS perfect for beginners
Acan Coral Care – Colorful brain-like corals prized by collectors
Bubble Coral Care – Unique inflatable vesicles create a one-of-a-kind look
SPS Corals (Small Polyp Stony)
SPS corals represent the pinnacle of reef keeping. Species like Acropora and Montipora build the intricate branching and plating structures that define natural coral reefs. These corals demand the most from your equipment and husbandry skills, requiring intense lighting, strong flow, pristine water quality, and rock-stable calcium and alkalinity levels. The reward for meeting their demands is a reef tank that rivals the beauty of the ocean itself.
Acropora Coral Care – The king of SPS corals and the ultimate reef keeping challenge
Montipora Coral Care – A more forgiving SPS with beautiful plating and encrusting growth forms
Saltwater Invertebrates & Cleanup Crew
Invertebrates are essential members of any reef aquarium ecosystem. From anemones that host clownfish to cleaner shrimp that remove parasites from tank mates, these creatures add biodiversity, visual interest, and practical utility to your reef. A well-chosen cleanup crew of snails, crabs, and shrimp will help control algae, eat leftover food, and keep your substrate clean, reducing maintenance and improving overall water quality.
Understanding the specific needs of each invertebrate species, including compatibility with corals and fish, is important for avoiding problems. Some invertebrates are excellent reef citizens while others can cause trouble if not carefully selected.
Even the most experienced reef keepers encounter health issues and pest problems from time to time. The key to success is early identification and swift, appropriate action. Saltwater fish are susceptible to a range of diseases that differ from their freshwater counterparts, and reef tanks can develop persistent pest populations that threaten corals if left unchecked. Our health and troubleshooting guides arm you with the knowledge to diagnose problems quickly and treat them effectively.
Common Diseases
Marine fish diseases can spread rapidly in the closed environment of an aquarium. Diseases like marine velvet and ich are among the most common and deadly threats to saltwater fish. Learning to recognize symptoms early and having treatment protocols ready can mean the difference between losing a single fish and losing an entire tank. Proper quarantine procedures remain the best line of defense.
Saltwater Fish Diseases – A comprehensive guide to identifying and treating common marine illnesses
Marine Velvet – One of the deadliest saltwater diseases and how to fight it
Chloroquine Phosphate – An effective treatment option for marine parasitic infections
Reef Pests
Reef pests are unwanted organisms that hitchhike into your aquarium on live rock, coral frags, or invertebrates. Once established, some pests can be extremely difficult to eradicate. Aiptasia anemones can overrun a tank in weeks, bristle worms can irritate corals, vermetid snails produce unsightly mucus webs, and dinoflagellates can smother everything in a slimy brown coating. Knowing how to identify and combat each pest is essential reef keeping knowledge.
A dedicated quarantine tank is the single most important tool for preventing disease outbreaks in your display tank. By isolating new fish for observation and prophylactic treatment before introduction, you dramatically reduce the risk of introducing parasites and pathogens to your established reef community.
Proper nutrition is the foundation of healthy, vibrant saltwater fish and thriving corals. Unlike freshwater fish that often do well on a simple flake diet, marine species frequently require a more varied and specialized approach to feeding. Many saltwater fish are naturally planktivores, herbivores, or specialized feeders that need specific food types to maintain their health and coloration. Corals and invertebrates have their own feeding requirements as well, with some relying on photosynthesis while others need direct target feeding.
Understanding what, when, and how to feed your marine inhabitants is critical. Overfeeding can crash water quality in a reef tank, while underfeeding can lead to malnutrition and aggression. Our feeding guide covers the best foods and feeding strategies for a healthy marine ecosystem.
Food for Saltwater Fish – A complete guide to the best foods and feeding strategies for marine fish
Resources & Further Reading
The reef keeping hobby is constantly evolving with new research, techniques, and equipment innovations. Staying connected with the broader reef community through quality publications and trusted resources will help you continue growing as a marine aquarist. Below are some of our favorite resources and articles that do not fit neatly into the categories above but are absolutely worth exploring.
This saltwater fish and reef guide is a living resource that we continually update with new species profiles, care guides, and expert advice. Whether you are cycling your first marine tank or fine-tuning a mature SPS-dominant reef, we hope this hub helps you find exactly the information you need. Bookmark this page, explore the linked articles, and feel free to reach out if there is a topic you would like us to cover next. Happy reefing!
Freshwater aquarium fish offer an incredible diversity of colors, shapes, behaviors, and personalities. Whether you’re setting up your very first tank or you’re a seasoned aquarist building a complex community, there’s a freshwater species perfect for you.
This mega guide is your central hub for everything freshwater fish. We’ve organized our 200+ in-depth articles into species groups so you can quickly find care guides, tank mate recommendations, and expert tips for any freshwater fish. Each section links to our detailed articles where you can dive deeper.
New to the hobby? Start here. These guides cover the best beginner-friendly species, community tank stocking, and how to choose the right fish for your tank size.
Cichlids are among the most colorful and personality-rich freshwater fish. From the vibrant African cichlids of Lake Malawi to the majestic South American species, this family offers something for every experience level.
Goldfish are one of the most iconic and beloved freshwater fish. From fancy varieties to hardy comets, they come in a stunning range of shapes and colors. Proper goldfish care starts with understanding their unique needs.
Tetras are the backbone of countless community tanks. These small, colorful schooling fish are peaceful and look stunning in planted aquariums. Here are our guides to the most popular species.
Livebearers are beginner-friendly fish that give birth to free-swimming fry instead of laying eggs. Guppies, mollies, platies, and swordtails are the most popular species in this group.
Gouramis are labyrinth fish known for their vibrant colors and unique ability to breathe atmospheric air. They range from peaceful dwarf varieties to more assertive species, making great centerpiece fish.
Barbs are active, hardy schooling fish that bring energy and movement to any tank. From the popular tiger barb to the peaceful cherry barb, this group includes species for every community setup.
Catfish and plecos are the workhorses of the freshwater tank. Many species help control algae while adding interesting bottom-dwelling behavior. From tiny otos to impressive plecos, there’s a catfish for every setup.
Loaches are fascinating bottom-dwellers known for their unique behaviors and ability to control pest snails. Many species are social and should be kept in groups.
Rasboras and danios are small, peaceful schooling fish perfect for nano tanks and community setups. Many species display stunning colors and are incredibly hardy.
Freshwater angelfish are elegant, graceful fish that serve as stunning centerpieces in medium to large tanks. Their tall body shape and flowing fins make them unmistakable.
Killifish and rainbow fish are some of the most brilliantly colored freshwater species available. Often overlooked by beginners, these fish reward experienced keepers with dazzling displays.
For aquarists ready for a challenge, these large and exotic freshwater species offer truly unique fishkeeping experiences. Many require spacious tanks and specialized care.
Freshwater invertebrates add diversity and utility to your tank. Shrimp help with algae control, snails clean up waste, and crabs bring unique personality. Many make excellent additions to community and planted tanks.
Bettas are the fish that pull more people into the hobby than almost anything else — and they’re far more complex than their reputation as “beginner bowl fish” suggests. I’ve kept bettas for over 25 years alongside everything from community freshwater setups to a 125-gallon reef, and bettas remain one of my favorite species to recommend because the ceiling on what you can learn from them is surprisingly high. The right setup, the right tank mates, proper nutrition, and understanding their behavior transforms keeping a betta from a novelty into a genuinely rewarding experience. This guide covers everything: care, types, tank mates, common health issues, and the setup mistakes that shorten their lives. Use the sections below to find exactly what you need.
Betta fish (Betta splendens), also known as Siamese Fighting Fish, originate from the rice paddies and shallow waters of Southeast Asia. They are labyrinth fish, meaning they can breathe air from the surface — which is why they can survive in lower-oxygen environments. However, “surviving” and “thriving” are very different things. Proper care is essential for a healthy, vibrant betta.
A betta’s minimum tank size should be 5 gallons, they require warm water (76-81°F), and they need a gentle filter and regular water changes. With the right setup, bettas can live 3-5 years and will reward you with incredible personality and interaction.
One of the most exciting aspects of betta keeping is the incredible diversity of tail types and color patterns available. From the elegant flowing fins of Halfmoon bettas to the spiky crown-like rays of Crowntails, and from solid colors to stunning marble and galaxy patterns — there’s a betta for every taste. Some rare varieties can cost hundreds or even thousands of dollars.
Understanding the different varieties helps you choose the right betta for your setup and know what to expect in terms of care requirements, as some varieties like Dragon Scale bettas are more prone to certain health issues.
Dive Deeper:
Halfmoon Betta — The stunning 180-degree tail spread that makes this variety a showstopper
Crowntail Betta — Recognizable by their spiky, crown-like fin rays
Plakat Betta — Short-finned bettas that are closer to wild betta fish
Setting up a proper betta tank goes beyond just filling a container with water. Bettas are tropical fish that need consistent warm temperatures, clean filtered water, and an enriching environment with plants and hiding spots. The right equipment makes the difference between a betta that merely survives and one that truly thrives with vibrant colors and active behavior.
Key equipment includes a reliable heater (bettas need 76-81°F), a gentle filter (bettas prefer low flow), appropriate lighting, and live or silk plants. Regular maintenance including water changes and tank cleaning is essential for long-term health.
Betta fish are carnivores in the wild, feeding primarily on insects and insect larvae. In captivity, they need a protein-rich diet to maintain their health and color. A quality betta-specific pellet should form the base of their diet, supplemented with frozen or freeze-dried foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and daphnia.
Overfeeding is one of the most common mistakes betta keepers make. A betta’s stomach is roughly the size of its eye, so 2-3 pellets twice daily is typically sufficient. Fasting one day per week can help prevent bloating and digestive issues.
Dive Deeper:
Best Betta Food — Top-rated betta pellets, frozen foods, and treats reviewed
Contrary to popular belief, betta fish don’t have to live alone. While male bettas are aggressive toward other male bettas (and often toward fish with similar flowing fins), many species can coexist peacefully with bettas in a properly sized community tank. The key is choosing the right tank mates — peaceful, non-nippy species that won’t compete with your betta or trigger aggression.
Popular compatible tank mates include Corydoras catfish, certain tetras, snails, and shrimp. A minimum 10-gallon tank is recommended for any betta community setup, and always have a backup plan in case your particular betta doesn’t tolerate tank mates.
Dive Deeper:
Betta Tank Mates — The complete compatibility guide for betta community tanks
Betta Sorority — Keeping multiple female bettas together — risks and rewards
Betta fish are among the most personable freshwater fish you can keep. They recognize their owners, can be trained to do simple tricks, and display a wide range of interesting behaviors. Understanding these behaviors helps you identify when your betta is happy, stressed, or potentially ill.
Common behaviors include flaring (spreading their gills to appear larger), building bubble nests (a sign of a healthy, content male), glass surfing (which can indicate stress), and resting near the bottom or on leaves. Learning to read your betta’s body language is one of the most rewarding parts of keeping these incredible fish.
Even with excellent care, betta fish can sometimes fall ill. The most common betta diseases include ich (white spot disease), fin rot, velvet, swim bladder disorder, and dropsy. Early detection is critical — the sooner you notice symptoms and begin treatment, the better your betta’s chances of recovery.
Prevention is always better than cure. Maintaining clean water with proper parameters, avoiding overfeeding, minimizing stress, and quarantining new tank mates are the best ways to keep your betta healthy. When disease does strike, understanding the specific condition helps you choose the right treatment.
Dive Deeper:
Betta Fish Disease — Complete guide to identifying and treating common betta illnesses
Ich on Betta — How to identify, treat, and prevent white spot disease
Betta Fish Tumor — Causes, types, and what you can do about betta tumors
Breeding betta fish is a rewarding but challenging endeavor that requires careful planning, dedicated equipment, and patience. The process involves conditioning a pair, introducing them carefully, monitoring the male’s bubble nest building and the spawning embrace, and then raising potentially hundreds of tiny fry.
You’ll need a separate breeding tank, a conditioning period with high-protein foods, and a plan for raising and rehoming the fry. It’s not a casual undertaking — but for dedicated hobbyists, breeding bettas offers a fascinating window into their natural reproductive behavior.
Dive Deeper:
Breeding Betta Fish — Complete step-by-step breeding guide from conditioning to raising fry
Your Betta Fish Journey Starts Here
Whether you’re setting up your first betta tank or looking to level up your betta keeping skills, the resources above will help you provide the best possible care for your fish. Betta fish are incredibly rewarding pets — with the right knowledge and setup, your betta will thrive and bring you joy for years to come.
Have questions? Drop a comment below and our team will be happy to help. And be sure to check out our YouTube channel for video guides on betta fish care and more.
I’ve been keeping aquariums for over 25 years, and floating plants are still one of my favorite things to add to any freshwater setup. I started working at local fish stores early in my hobby journey, and it was there that I really fell in love with what a good canopy of floating plants can do for a tank — they make everything look more natural, more alive, and honestly more like a slice of a real river or jungle stream.
In this guide, I’ll walk you through the 16 best floating aquarium plants based on my hands-on experience — including my personal top picks, the ones I use in my own setups, and a few honest warnings about the plants that can turn into a real nightmare if you’re not careful. Let’s get into it.
What Are Floating Aquarium Plants?
Floating aquarium plants come in many different shapes and sizes. When we talk about floating plants in the aquarium hobby, we don’t only mean aquatic plants that literally float on the water surface, with parts of the plant sticking out of the top of the water.
In addition, aquatic plants that are not rooted to the substrate, but drift freely in the water column are also included in this category. Most species are green overall, but some like the Red Root Floater have a bit more color.
The Benefits Of Floating Plants For Your Tank
Let’s face it, a lidless set up with floating aquarium plants looks amazing. This kind of setup creates such a fascinating and natural appeal that it’s almost impossible to walk past without staring.
Unfortunately in most tanks, the surface is covered by a hood, but of course, there are often practical reasons for having a lid! Many freshwater aquarium fish are strong jumpers and will end up on the floor if they are kept in a topless aquarium, so you need to think carefully for the safety of your livestock.
Floating plants look great from whichever side you’re looking at them, and those types that grow on the surface of the water usually have great root systems that hang down into the water, which looks really cool.
Oxygen & Food
Floating plants are very popular in smaller aquariums like betta fish tanks, shrimp tanks, and other nano setups. This is because they’re really helpful in keeping conditions stable and safe in the freshwater aquarium.
One of the benefits these aquatic plants provide is oxygen! Plants use carbon dioxide and give off oxygen, which is what your fish need to breathe. Since most floating plants are fast-growing, they are able to produce plenty of oxygen.
In addition, micro-organisms and other life forms grow on the roots and other plant surfaces. These provide a great food source, particularly for shrimp and fry.
Cover For Your Fish
Apart from good looks, floating plants have loads of benefits for your fish and inverts. Floating plants that create a lot of structure in the water column make great places for fish to lay their eggs, and for fish fry and baby shrimps to hide in, safely away from hungry mouths.
Species that have leaves that cover the water surface really help to bring out the best in many fish species. Fish feel safer and have lower stress levels under aquatic plant cover. This is because small fish have many predators that hunt them from above out in nature.
Nutrient And Algae Control
Most floating aquarium plants grow without rooting themselves in the substrate. This means they are very good at getting all the nutrients they need from the water column. This is good news because high nutrient levels in the water can be very harmful to your livestock, and also tends to result in loads of algae!
Beneficial bacteria are able to colonize the surfaces of the plant and this really helps with the aquarium cycling process. These bacteria convert harmful toxins in fish waste into nitrates that the plants use as food. In fact, when plants are soaking up the nitrates, the need for water changes is reduced a whole lot! That doesn’t mean you don’t need good aquarium filtration of course.
Removing nitrates from the water isn’t the only way that floating plants help to control algae. Floating plants that cover the water’s surface also block out light from above, and without light and nutrients, algae won’t grow.
Other freshwater aquarium plants that grow below your floating plants also need nutrients and light of course. This competition can be a big problem if you add floating plants after planting other plants in the tank, especially types that need a lot of light.
Now that you know more about the pros and cons of floating aquarium plants, it’s time for me to introduce you to the list of amazing species for your home aquarium!
The 16 Best For Freshwater Tanks
I’ve put together this amazing list of the most popular and effective floating plants that you can grow in your aquarium to make your choice a lot easier. I’ve included surface floaters like Amazon Frogbit that can cover the surface of your aquarium, as well as submerged plants like Water Sprite, that grow in the water column.
So let’s get started with our list and get to know the top 16! Check out our YouTube video from our channel above. We got you covered in more detail from our blog below!
In A Hurry? Check All The Best Floating Plants at BucePlant!
Red Root Floater is an amazing floating plant from South America that does well in just about any freshwater aquarium. The leaves of this plant are green if grown under low light, but turn a deep red with high lighting. These floating plants have awesome red roots, no matter what sort of lighting you use.
Red Root Floaters grow fast and will quickly cover the water surface of your fish tank. Controlling its growth is easy — just pull out a handful every week or so. This is my personal #1 recommendation for most aquariums. I’ve grown Red Root Floaters in multiple setups over the years, and the color transformation under high light is genuinely stunning. You go from green to deep crimson in just a few weeks. If you want one plant that immediately makes your aquarium look like something from a nature documentary, this is it.
Salvinia natans is a really cool floating freshwater plant option for aquariums with lower water temperatures. This low-maintenance plant species has green, air-filled leaves with interesting, hair-like structures on their top surface.
The leaves of this plant can measure a little over an inch in size but are usually smaller in the home aquarium. These aquatic plants don’t have a very large root system and will grow best in low-flow tanks.
Dwarf Water Lettuce is a green floating plant that is native to Lake Victoria in East Africa. The leaves of the Dwarf Water Lettuce plant grow about 1.5 inches long and are soft and velvety in texture.
Dwarf Water lettuce plants grow dense roots that trail down into the fish tank, providing great places for shrimp and small fish to hide. Its well-developed roots also make Dwarf Water Lettuce a great aquatic plant for reducing nitrate levels in fish tanks.
One thing worth noting that often gets overlooked: Dwarf Water Lettuce works just as well in outdoor pond setups as it does in aquariums, making it one of the more versatile plants on this list. It’s also worth comparing directly to Amazon Frogbit — Water Lettuce has noticeably bigger leaves, meaning more surface coverage per plant and a bolder visual impact. For nutrient control in a larger or outdoor setup, it’s one of my top recommendations.
This interesting floating plant is native to the tropical regions of Asia. It is a floating fern that is not very well known in the hobby but makes an excellent addition to the planted fish tank.
The leaves of this aquarium plant are less than half an inch in size and, under ideal conditions, curl upwards to form an interesting bag shape. Achieving this form in the planted aquarium, however, requires good light, plenty of nutrients, and still water conditions.
Subwassertang (or Susswassertang) is a German name that translates to English as ‘freshwater seaweed’. This is a really interesting species of plant that not that much is known about. In fact, the leaves of this floating plant are just one cell thick!
Subwassertang floats freely in the aquarium and does not produce roots or need any substrate to grow. This is a plant that is very popular with shrimp keepers.
Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Attached To Hardscape
Growth Rate: Moderate
CO2 Requirement: Recommended
If left to grow naturally, Riccia fluitans will form a mat at the surface of the aquarium. It is a versatile floating plant that can also be grown attached to hardscape features or attached to mesh though.
This beautiful species of plant can be found growing all over the world. It provides great habitat for small fry and shrimps in your aquarium.
The Banana Plant is native to the Southeastern United States. This low maintenance aquatic plant does send roots into the substrate, and can be rooted and allowed to grow to the surface, or left to float and send roots down. These are beautiful and interesting water lily-type plants that can flower if given good light and left to grow mature.
The Mosaic plant is a truly spectacular floating plant. The leaves of this plant are dark green with red edges and close up each night before reopening when the sun rises.
Unfortunately, this plant requires some space and needs to be planted in ponds or larger freshwater aquariums to grow to its full size and glory. This plant produces plenty of beautiful yellow flowers when it is growing well.
Duckweed is a very small floating plant that reproduces quickly in the aquarium. This tough floating plant is very efficient for removing nitrates from the water.
Each plant is bright green and floats above the water surface with small hanging roots. I’ll be straight with you from my years working in fish stores: Duckweed is a nightmare once it gets established. Every microscopic piece left behind becomes a new colony. I’ve seen tanks take months to clear after a Duckweed infestation. If you want nutrient control and surface cover, you’re almost always better off with Amazon Frogbit or Red Root Floaters — plants you can actually manage. If you still want Duckweed, just know exactly what you’re signing up for.
Amazon Frogbit is a very popular South and Central American floating plant option that can be grown on the water surface of the planted aquarium. The spongy leaves of this plant can be left to cover the surface of your aquarium and the hanging roots provide great habitat for your fish and livestock.
Fortunately, Amazon Frogbit is low maintenance and pretty easy to control because the plants are not super small. This plant has become an invasive weed in parts of North America, so be careful about disposing of it outdoors. Amazon Frogbit is my other go-to recommendation, especially for beginners. In my experience, fish absolutely love hovering under a Frogbit canopy — I’ve watched bettas build bubble nests right underneath it. It’s fast-growing, easy to scoop out, and the hanging roots create a habitat that fish genuinely thrive in.
Hornwort is a very popular and very easy-to-grow aquarium plant. This stem plant lacks true roots and is not rooted in the substrate.
It will float in the aquarium, providing great cover for small fish and shrimps. This makes the Hornwort plant a popular choice for breeders who keep grow-out tanks without substrate.
My honest caveat with Hornwort: it sheds. A lot. If you’re the type of aquarist who likes a pristine-looking tank, be aware that Hornwort constantly drops needles as it grows, and those needles get everywhere — into your filter, across your substrate, floating around the tank. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s the one thing I always warned customers about before they added it to a display tank they cared about.
Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Attached, Carpet, Walls
Growth Rate: Moderate
CO2 Requirement: Recommended
Java Moss is one of the most versatile, and popular aquatic plants in the hobby. These low-maintenance plants do not require any special lighting or equipment and can be used in all sorts of different ways.
Like most floating plants, Java Moss is really useful for protecting eggs and creating a hiding place for small fry, and shrimps from hungry bigger fish.
In my experience, Java Moss is about as bulletproof as freshwater plants get — I’d recommend it to any beginner without hesitation. My personal preference leans toward plants with a more dramatic look, but Java Moss has a practical advantage that’s hard to overlook: fish notorious for picking apart plants will usually leave it completely alone. It’s also a column feeder, meaning you can attach it to rocks and driftwood and it’ll grab on and grow in place beautifully.
Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
Growth Rate: Fast
CO2 Requirement: No
Water Wisteria is a very easy and fast-growing plant that is a great choice for beginners because it does not need CO2 or strong light. It is quite similar to the Water Sprite and the two plants are sometimes confused.
The leaves of this plant look quite different in their emersed form and really change shape when grown underwater. The Water Wisteria plant can be rooted in the substrate, or simply floated in the aquarium.
Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
Growth Rate: Moderate-Fast
CO2 Requirement: No
Anacharis is another easy stem plant for beginners that can be grown floating in the aquarium, or rooted in the substrate. The Anacharis plant grows very well in cool water and cooler tropical aquariums.
Anacharis is a fairly fast-growing and hardy plant, that can grow to a large size. It is best to grow this plant in medium to large aquariums so that it doesn’t take over a nano aquarium. It is one of the best floating aquarium plants for beginners.
Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
Growth Rate: Fast
CO2 Requirement: No
Water Sprite is a great floating stem plant that grows wild in tropical areas all around the world. It is suitable for beginners and is easy to grow, providing many great benefits in the home aquarium. This aquarium plant can be left to float in the water or grow rooted in the substrate.
Honestly, Water Sprite is one of the most underrated plants in the hobby. It gets a bad reputation as an aggressive grower, but that fast growth rate is actually one of its biggest advantages — it’s a godsend for nutrient control. I’ve used it in setups where I needed to rapidly bring nitrates under control, and it delivers every time. If you’re a beginner who wants a floating plant that genuinely works hard for your tank, Water Sprite belongs on your shortlist.
Tank Placement: Foreground, Midground, Background, Submerged Floating
Growth Rate: Moderate-fast
CO2 Requirement: Yes
Brazilian Pennywort is a great South and Central American plant that is easy to grow and doesn’t need much maintenance. Although this plant will grow best under moderate lighting, it can adapt to low light conditions and a wide range of temperatures. This floating stem plant can be grown rooted or allowed to float freely in the fish tank.
The Biggest Mistake I See With Floating Plants
After 25 years in this hobby and time spent at multiple fish stores, the number one issue I see beginners run into with floating plants is lighting — specifically, floating plants shading out everything below them.
We’d regularly have customers come in frustrated that their stem plants or carpeting plants had melted or stopped growing. Nine times out of ten, they had a surface covered in Frogbit or Duckweed blocking nearly all the light from reaching lower plants. The fix is simple: use floating rings to section off part of the surface, or be selective about how much coverage you allow based on what else you’re growing. If you’re running high-light carpeting plants, be very conservative with your floating plant coverage.
Tank Setup
Floating plants are easy to grow, but do have a few special needs. For most of the species in this list, a substrate is not necessary, and that means these plants are ideal for aquarists who want the benefits of a planted fish tank, without substrate and hardscape.
Let’s take a closer look at how to set up your aquarium for these awesome aquatic plants.
Going Lidless/Hoodless
Plants that grow above the top of the water usually don’t do very well in the extreme humidity that occurs above the surface if you keep a hood on your tank. It is possible to grow a surface floating plant type with a hood but to really appreciate these plants, you’ll want to view them from above anyway.
This means you’ll want to set up your tank without a lid (aka Rimless Tank). You’ll need to be very careful about the kinds of fish you keep in a lidless aquarium of course because many fish will jump right out.
If you already have active fish and still want to grow floating plants without a lid, you may have to consider fitting some sort of screen over the top.
Lighting
Without a hood over your aquarium, you will need an alternative way to set up your lighting. Fortunately, there are plenty of different lighting options that can be used.
Clip-on lights are one of the best systems, but hanging fixtures, LED strips, and even desk lamp-style options will work.
Selecting The Right Filter
Even though floating plants are amazing for soaking up nutrients and improving water quality, a good quality filter is still essential. Most floating plants grow best in still water conditions so a fish tank with a low flow is definitely recommended. This means choosing the right filter can be very important.
Surface skimming filters are definitely not recommended for surface-growing plants. Choosing the right kind of filter is also very important when growing unrooted plants that drift in the water.
This is because these plants are delicate and the leaves and stems tend to break up and get sucked into filters, causing a blockage. The best way to avoid this is to use a sponge filter or to cover the intake of your power filter with a pre-filter sponge. If you are running a power filter, try using hardscape features like rocks and driftwood to break up the current.
Care and Instructions
Growing floating plants in your freshwater tank is very easy, and something that any aquarist can do. Let’s take a look at the most important aspects of floating plant care:
Feeding
Floating plants are water column feeders, and they can get most or all of the nutrients they need from fish waste and uneaten food in the fish tank. If you don’t have fish, or just want to get the best growth rate out of your plants, providing a liquid supplement, like APT Complete is definitely recommended.
CO2 Injection
Most floating plants don’t need high-tech conditions. A plant like Amazon Frogbit that floats on the surface of the aquarium has unlimited access to CO2 from the atmosphere around it. Floating plant species like Java Moss that grow beneath the surface are not so lucky, and many of them will benefit from added carbon dioxide.
Propagation
Floating plants are some of the easiest plants to propagate in the home aquarium. Although the flowering species can reproduce by seed, most species are very easy to grow by division.
The mother plant will often produce small plantlets that can be separated or allowed to detach themselves and continue to grow. Stem plants and mosses can simply be divided and allowed to float.
Tank Maintenance
Tank maintenance is a very important part of keeping a healthy aquarium. Many species of floating plant will thrive in high nutrient systems and can be very helpful in improving water conditions.
In heavily planted tanks, almost all of the nitrates in the water can be used by the plants, but I would still recommend you make regular partial water changes. It is important to test your water regularly to keep an eye on these parameters, so make sure you pick up a liquid test kit and test for nitrates when you’re changing water.
Heavily planted tanks will usually have very little algae growth, but keeping the substrate or floor of the tank clean with your gravel vac is still very important.
Keeping Them In Check
In many cases, these aquarium plants grow really fast and multiply quickly in a fish tank. This means they can fill up your aquarium, or completely cover up the water surface in no time at all.
Small floating plants that multiply can be pulled out of the tank very easily, but you might have to do this a few times a month. Some species, like Duckweed, can multiply incredibly fast, and this will keep you quite busy.
Many aquarists use floating rings to keep surface-growing plants from covering certain areas. This is a great way to keep your plants from shading out the other plants below.
Tank Mates
Floating plants can be so effective in controlling algae in the planted aquarium, that they cut out the food source for algae-eating animals. Fortunately, algae wafers can be used to feed your algae eaters, but generally speaking, you should avoid growing a lot of floating aquarium plants if you keep animals like:
If you plan on keeping your tank without a hood, you’re going to need to consider the safety of your fish, and avoid keeping species that are known for jumping. Unfortunately, most freshwater fish can easily jump out of lidless tanks so this is always a risk.
Pests and other problems
Being such fast-growing plants, it’s really important that you dispose of unwanted plants very carefully. Many floating plants will turn into an invasive weed and really take off if they get into your local waterways, posing a real threat to native plants and animals.
Small species like the water fern and duckweed can be pretty messy and will tend to stick to your arms and equipment during tank maintenance.
Snails and other organisms very often hitch a ride into your fish tank when adding new floating plants. For this reason, I would definitely advise you to buy tissue culture specimens wherever possible because they are grown under sterile lab conditions. You can learn more about tissue culture plants from the video by Utah State University below.
Where To Buy Floating Plants
Floating plants are very popular in the hobby and can usually be picked up from your local fish-keeping store. I prefer to buy from trusted online retailers because they tend to have the best range of species and tissue cultures.
FAQS
Do they oxygenate the water?
Floating plants work great to oxygenate the water in your aquarium. This is important for keeping your livestock healthy and active.
Do they stop algae?
One of the greatest benefits of floating plants is their ability to soak up excess nutrients in the aquarium water. This, coupled with the shading they provide, makes them a great way of reducing algae in your aquarium!
Do they plants need CO2?
Most of the popular floating plants for aquariums can grow fine without injected CO2. Increasing CO2 levels (to 30 ppm) will improve growth rates though.
Will floating plants block light?
Floating plants are often fast-growing and can block out light to other plants growing below them. Low-light plants will grow just fine below floating plants but high-light species will be difficult to care for.
Can you have too many in an aquarium?
Allowing floating plants to cover the surface of your tank can look great and create an excellent habitat for your fish and livestock. It can cause some problems, however, like making tank maintenance and feeding fish more difficult, and blocking out light to submerged plants
Final Thoughts
After 25+ years in this hobby, floating plants remain one of my favorite additions to any freshwater setup. They’re one of the few things that simultaneously improve your tank’s looks, water quality, and the wellbeing of your livestock.
My personal recommendation if you’re just getting started: pick up some Red Root Floaters or Amazon Frogbit. Both are easy to control, look incredible under good lighting, and will immediately elevate any aquarium. Just stay away from Duckweed until you really know what you’re getting into — trust me on that one.
🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide — your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
I’ve spent 25 years in this hobby — keeping bettas, angelfish, pea puffers, neon tetras, guppies, and dozens of others. I also worked in local fish stores, which gave me hands-on time with nearly every freshwater species you can imagine. This list is my personal take on 21 of the coolest freshwater fish you can actually keep — not just a pretty list, but what makes each one genuinely special, and where beginners sometimes get caught off guard.
If you’re newer to the hobby, I’ve also included everything you need to know before you buy: tank size, temperament, water parameters, and the honest warnings you won’t always find in a basic care guide.
Key Takeaways
Research your favorite fish’s needs before adding them to your tank- each species is different.
Choose peaceful community fish if you want more than one species in your tank. Your tank will be a much more harmonious place if you avoid aggressive fish.
Use the best equipment you can afford and keep up with regular maintenance to keep your fish healthy.
How To Choose
One of the biggest challenges when picking out new aquarium fish is selecting the perfect fit for your tank. Walking into a big fish store and being surrounded by all the beautiful exotic fish can be pretty overwhelming, especially when you don’t know exactly how big they will grow and how much space they need.
I recommend doing your research at home before you go out and buy fish, and that’s what this article is all about!
Tank Size
Size matters when you’re choosing a freshwater fish tank. It’s important to consider how much space you have for an aquarium. If you already have a tank set up at home, you also need to consider what kind of fish can live in your aquarium.
Read up on the adult size of the fish you like as well as the minimum tank size that they need. Starting with a big enough tank can save you a lot of trouble in the future!
Larger aquariums will need a dedicated stand or cabinet to stand on, remember, fish tanks are heavy. Your aquarium should also have a tight-fitting hood because most fish are surprisingly strong jumpers!
Care Level
Factoring in the physical space needed to keep your fish is a good starting point, but take your time to research their care too. Some aquarium fish are much easier to keep than others, and beginners should always choose fish with easy care requirements.
So what makes some fish easier to keep than others? Care level depends on factors like:
Diet– Some fish have very specific diets or need live foods only. Fish that can feed on prepared foods like flakes and pellets are easier to care for.
Water Quality– Some fish need very high water quality and are not likely to survive beginners’ mistakes. Hardy fish are the best choice for first-time fish keepers.
Tank Environment– Some fish need specific substrates, water flow, and other specialized setups. Fish that are happy in general tank conditions are the easiest to care for.
Temperament
Temperament is very important when choosing an aquarium fish species. Some semi-aggressive species like betta fish can actually make great beginner fish, it is just important to keep them alone or choose their tank mates carefully. Peaceful fish are always the safest bet when putting together a community tank.
Water Parameters
Water parameters are the chemical conditions in your aquarium water. Different fish prefer different parameters, although some fish have more specific needs.
It is best to test your water before you buy your fish. That way you can choose fish that will be comfortable in the water that you can provide.
21 Of The Coolest Freshwater Aquarium Fish
Now that you know what to look for when choosing aquarium fish, it’s time to meet 21 awesome freshwater aquarium fish that you can choose from!
Some fish just have that wow factor, and each of the species in this list will impress you. For each species in the list, I’ll cover some of the most important care requirements and some cool facts about what makes them unique.
We have a video below from our YouTube channel. If you like it, be sure to subscribe as we post new ones every week. We go into more detail in our blog below.
There’s also a list of information about each fish that you should keep in mind:
Diet: Carnivorous. Provide flakes/pellets, live/ frozen foods
Water Temperature: 75-80°F
pH: 6.5-8
The betta fish is hands down one of the coolest freshwater aquarium fish in the hobby. These beautiful fish are full of color and full of attitude.
In fact, betta fish are also known as Siamese fighting fish because they were originally bred to fight for sport. Today we prefer to enjoy these wonderful pets for their beauty and personality, so it’s important to keep just one betta fish in the same tank.
Betta fish are a great option for new fish keepers because they can be kept in just a 5-gallon tank, although they need a filter and a heater. These colorful freshwater fish can also be kept with some other species of peaceful freshwater tropical fish if they have plenty of space in a community aquarium.
Bettas are my #1 pick on this entire list — and I don’t say that lightly. I’ve kept many fish over the years, but bettas have a personality that’s truly hard to match. They recognize you, they respond to you, and in a properly sized community tank they thrive in ways you just don’t see when they’re crammed into a tiny bowl. The variety of color forms and fin types available today is also incredible — if you haven’t explored bettas beyond the basic pet store crowntail, you’re really missing out.
2. Freshwater Angelfish
Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare
Origin: Tropical South America
Care Level: Easy
Max Size: 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful, semi-aggressive when breeding
Swimming Level: Top/ mid-levels
Diet: Omnivorous. provide flakes/pellets, live/ frozen foods
Water Temperature: 78-84°F
pH: 6.5-7.2
Angelfish are unique cichlids from South America that are available in many different breeds with awesome colors and patterns. These tropical fish have very tall, flat bodies with really long fins. In fact, their bodies are taller than they are long!
Angelfish are easy to care for, but they need a pretty big tank. 29 gallons is the minimum tank size, but a 55 gallon would be a better bet in the long term. Angelfish are pretty peaceful for cichlids, but they will eat smaller fish, so choose their tank mates carefully.
I’ve kept angelfish for years and think of them as the perfect centerpiece fish that doesn’t come with the care drama of discus. They look spectacular in a tall planted tank. One thing often missing from care guides: angelfish can turn territorial and surprisingly aggressive when they pair up and breed — even mild-mannered fish will get pushy during spawning. If you’re running a community setup, make sure your tank is roomy enough and plan for that possibility.
3. Dwarf Gourami
Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
Origin: Pakistan, Bangladesh, India
Care Level: Moderate
Max Size: 2.5-3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Mid/top levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide dried, frozen, and live foods
Water Temperature: 72-82°F
pH: 6-7.5
The dwarf gourami is a beautiful freshwater aquarium fish that is great for smaller aquariums. These cool labyrinth fish come from the same family as the betta fish, although they are not nearly as aggressive. In fact, dwarf gouramis can be kept in a pair or small group if they have enough space.
There are many different dwarf gourami breeds, including the beautiful powder blue gourami and the colorful flame gourami.
⚠️ Honest warning: dwarf gouramis have become increasingly fragile in recent years. There’s a disease called Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus (DGIV) that has spread widely through the hobby and is notoriously difficult to treat. Buy from a reputable source, quarantine new arrivals, and watch them closely. A healthy dwarf gourami is a beautiful fish — but they’re no longer the bulletproof beginner fish they once were.
4. Rainbow
Scientific Name: Various
Origin: Australia, Southeast Asia, etc.
Care Level: Easy-moderate
Max Size: 1.5 – 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 – 55 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid/ top levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Feed dried, frozen/live foods, and vegetable matter
Water Temperature: Various
pH: Various
Rainbowfish are not a single species but rather a group of fish from the Melanotaeniidae family. Most of these fish come from Australia and Southeast Asia but they are common in the aquarium trade today.
These colorful freshwater fish are active swimmers that need plenty of swimming space to stay healthy. Most rainbowfish make excellent community fish that are easy to care for.
Each species grows to a different size and has different care needs, so be sure to research the specific needs of your rainbow fish before bringing them home.
5. Dwarf Cichlids
Scientific Name: Various
Origin: Africa, Asia
Care Level: Easy to advanced
Max Size: 1-5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful- semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom/mid-levels
Diet: Various
Water Temperature: Various
pH: Various
Dwarf cichlids are the smaller fish species in the cichlid family. These tropical freshwater fish are amazing fish for aquarists who don’t have the space to keep the larger species.
There are many different species, and each needs a slightly different setup and slightly different care. Dwarf cichlids tend to be less aggressive than their larger relatives too, which makes them really cool fish for carefully planned community tanks.
Some beautiful species like the German blue ram can actually be pretty shy and need plenty of hiding places to feel secure. Make sure you read up on the individual care needs of any dwarf cichlid species before adding it to your aquarium.
6. Pea Puffer
Scientific Name: Carinotetradon travancoricus
Origin: India
Care Level: Moderate
Adult Size: 1 inch
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Swimming Level: Top/ mid-levels
Diet: Carnivorous. Provide live and frozen foods
Water Temperature: 72-82°F
pH: 7-8
The Pea puffer ( AKA Dwarf puffer fish) is a super-cool nano fish with loads of personality. They are adorable freshwater aquarium fish, but they can be pretty aggressive and they don’t always get along great with other fish species (video source).
Pea puffers are perfect for fish keepers looking for a small species that doesn’t need a lot of space. These curious fish are an excellent choice for a small, heavily planted aquarium.
Thes dwarf puffers eat small snails, which they will hunt for themselves if you add some to the tank. They should also be fed live and frozen foods like brine shrimp, mosquito larvae, and blood worms.
Pea puffers are one of my personal favorites on this list. They are genuinely unhinged little characters — tiny fish with absolutely enormous personalities. Every one I’ve kept has had its own quirks, and they are endlessly entertaining to watch. Just don’t let the small size fool you: they will fin-nip and harass fish much larger than themselves. Best kept in a species-only tank or with very fast, short-finned tankmates.
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide flakes/pellets, live/ frozen foods
Water Temperature: 72-81°F
pH: 6-7.5
The honey gourami is another cool fish with a peaceful nature. These interesting little fish have beautiful colors and make great additions to community tanks with similar-sized fish.
Honey gouramis are tropical freshwater fish from Asia. They are relatively hardy and make a good choice for new fish keepers. These colorful fish look great too and are available in many different breeds including yellow and red color morphs.
8. Wagtail Platies
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Origin: Central America
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid/ top levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide pellets, flakes, dried and frozen foods
Water Temperature: 64-78°F
pH: 7-8
The Wagtail platy is one of the coolest platy breeds in the aquarium hobby. These unique fish have bright red bodies with black fins and a black tail.
These peaceful community fish are very easy to care for and breed, which makes them ideal for beginners who want a really colorful fish.
9. Sailfin Mollies
Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna
Origin: Southern United States and Mexico
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid/ top levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide pellets, flakes, dried and frozen foods.
Water Temperature: 70-79°F
pH: 7-8.5
Sailfin mollies are cool fish from the guppy family. These large livebearers have huge dorsal fins on their backs, which is where they get their interesting name. Sailfin molly fish grow pretty large, so it’s important to give them a tank of at least 29 gallons.
Sailfin mollies come from the same family as guppies and platy fish. These fish are called livebearers because they give birth to live babies instead of laying eggs. This makes them super easy to breed, even for beginners!
Diet: Carnivorous. Provide flakes, live, and frozen foods.
Water Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 4-7
Chili Rasboras are a tiny schooling species of freshwater fish. In fact, these cool black and orange rasboras are one of the smallest fish in the aquarium trade!
Chili rasboras are tropical fish that are perfect for a small, heavily planted aquarium. They can be pretty shy around larger species, however, so keep them in a species-only tank or with other very small fish.
11. Glass Catfish
Scientific Name: Kryptopterus vitreolus
Origin: Thailand
Care Level: Moderate
Adult Size: 4 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid-level
Diet: Carnivorous. Provide dried, frozen and live foods
Water Temperature: 72-82°F
pH: 6.5-7.5
Glass catfish are cool freshwater fish with a really strange look. These peaceful community fish are transparent, which means you can see right through them and even see their bones!
Glass catfish are very social animals and it’s important to keep them in a group of at least 6. These unique freshwater fish can also be kept with other peaceful tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters.
12. African Cichlids
Scientific Name: Varied
Origin: Africa
Care Level: Moderate – advanced
Adult Size: 2 -12+ inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive – Aggressive
Swimming Level: All levels
Diet: Varied. Including pellets, live/ frozen foods, vegetables, and algae
Water Temperature: 74-80°F
pH: Varied. Usually 7+
African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. In fact, a tank full of African cichlids can look just like a saltwater reef tank!
There is a huge number of different African cichlid species in the hobby, and each one needs to be researched carefully before adding them to your tank. It’s better to be cautious because African cichlids can be aggressive fish and often have pretty specific care needs.
I have a real soft spot for African cichlids from my time working in fish stores. They are absolute characters — always active, always doing something interesting, and they’d come right up to the glass. When you set up a proper African cichlid tank with the right rockwork and compatible tankmates from the same lake region, they are some of the most rewarding fish you can keep. In my experience, they were consistently among the healthiest, most resilient fish we had in the store.
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide dried and frozen/live foods
Water Temperature: 68-78°F
pH: 6.5-7.5
The celestial pearl danio is also known as a galaxy rasbora or CPD. These peaceful community fish are a social species, so you’ll need to buy a small group of them.
Celestial pearl danios have beautiful colors, and the males in particular are very attractive. These shoaling fish are ideal for aquarists who would like to put together a small aquarium with live plants.
14. Discus
Scientific Name: Symphysodon aequifasciatus
Origin: South America
Care Level: Advanced
Adult Size: 6-9 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid-level
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide pellets, flakes, vegetables, and live/frozen foods
Water Temperature: 82-89 °F
pH: 6-6.5
The discus cichlid is a magnificent freshwater tropical fish from South America. Discus fish prefer slightly warmer water than most other fish, so keep that in mind if you’re setting up a community tank.
The discus fish is one of the most sought-after home aquarium fish in the world because they have such bright colorful patterns and such a unique body shape. These beautiful fish are a good choice for more experienced aquarists.
Diet: Carnivorous. Provide dried and frozen/live foods
Water Temperature: 70-79 °F
pH: 6-7
If you’re looking for a small exotic fish for a community tank, look no further than the neon tetra! These peaceful schooling fish are easy to find at most fish stores and just as easy to care for.
Neon tetras get along really well with other species of small fish, so you don’t have to worry about any conflict with your other cool fish. These tropical fish are highly social, so pick up a group of at least 6. You’ll love watching a school of neon tetras hang out in your freshwater tank! They the smaller cousin of the Cardinal Tetra.
16. Archer
Scientific Name: Toxotes spp.
Origin: Asia & Australia
Care Level: Advanced
Adult Size: up to 12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 110 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Swimming Level: Top level
Diet: Carnivorous
Water Temperature: 77-88°F
pH: 6-8
Archer fish are one of the most interesting tropical fish that you can keep in a freshwater aquarium. These exotic freshwater aquarium fish actually hunt for bugs above the water by spitting water at them!
Most archerfish are actually brackish water fish, so you’ll need to look for freshwater species like the small-scale archerfish if you have a freshwater tank. Archer fish are carnivores, so they are not safe to keep with smaller fish.
17. Gold Barbs
Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
Origin: Vietnam, Laos, Taiwan, China
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Mid/bottom levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide dried frozen/live foods and algae
Water Temperature: 61-75°F
pH: 6-8
The gold barb is a stunning little schooling fish that should be kept in groups of 5 or more. These fish are naturally green but they have been bred to have a bright golden color with amazing shining scales. Breeding males also develop bright red fins which really adds color to your aquarium!
These peaceful community fish can be kept in an unheated aquarium, although they will need good filtration and plenty of swimming space to stay healthy.
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide dried and frozen/live foods
Water Temperature: 63-82°F
pH: 7-8.5
Guppies are one of the coolest freshwater fish and an amazing choice for everyone from beginners to experienced fish keepers. Fancy guppies are just regular guppies that have been bred to show certain colors, patterns, or fin types.
Fancy guppies are hardy fish with bright, colorful patterns. They are very easy to care for and they will happily breed in most freshwater aquariums.
19. Fancy Goldfish
Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
Origin: East Asia
Care Level: Moderate
Adult Size: 6-8 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20-30 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: All levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide dried foods, live/frozen foods, vegetables
Water Temperature: 68-74°F
pH: 7-8
Fancy goldfish are classic aquarium fish that make amazing pets. There are many amazing goldfish breeds to choose from ranging from types with long fins to those with strange, bulging eyes!
Fancy goldfish are not as easy to care for as you might think, however, and they definitely won’t be happy in a bowl. These freshwater fish need a tank of at least 20 gallons to stay healthy.
20. Flowerhorn Cichlid
Scientific Name: Hybrid
Origin: Hybrid
Care Level: Moderate
Adult Size: 12-15 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Swimming Level: All levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide pellets, live/frozen foods, vegetables
Water Temperature: 75-86°F
pH: 6.5-8
The flowerhorn cichlid, is an awesome fish that makes a great pet for more experienced fish keepers. These fascinating fish are not a natural species but rather a hybrid that was bred for the aquarium trade from more than one wild cichlid.
Flowerhorn cichlids have amazing colors and their most distinctive feature is the large bump on the top of their heads. These fish grow really large (up to 15 inches) so they need a large tank to stay healthy.
⚠️ Be very clear-eyed about this: flowerhorns are not community fish. They are genuinely aggressive — territorial to the point where you almost always need to keep them alone. I’ve seen people try to add tankmates and it rarely ends well for the other fish. They’re a solo showpiece fish, and a spectacular one. Just go in knowing they own their tank — every inch of it.
21. Glofish
Scientific Name: Various
Origin: Various
Care Level: Easy-moderate
Adult Size: 2 – 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 55 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful – aggressive
Swimming Level: Mid/top levels
Diet: Omnivorous. Provide flakes, pellets, live and frozen foods
Water Temperature: Various
pH: Various
Glofish are fascinating freshwater fish with amazing colors. These fish come in awesome shades like cosmic blue, electric green, galactic purple, moonrise pink, Starfire red, and sunburst orange. Their bright colors are actually the result of artificial genetic modification, so you won’t find any of these neon fish in the wild.
There are many cool freshwater fish in the Glofish lineup, including tetras, danios, bettas, barbs, and freshwater sharks. The danios and tetras are very peaceful fish, but the others can be more aggressive.
Each Glofish species has different needs, so be sure to research your favorite species before you add them to your fish tank.
Preparing For Your Freshwater Fish
Have you chosen your favorite freshwater aquarium fish? Before you go ahead and buy them, you’ll need a great tank for them to call home.
Tank Setup Checklist
If you already have a tank setup at home, you can go ahead and skip this section. If you’re just starting out, go through this list carefully and get to know each item.
Let’s get started and run through the basics of what you’ll need!
Hardware Essentials:
Aquarium with hood
Filter
Heater
Substrate
Decorations like rocks, driftwood, and aquarium-safe ornaments
Once you have everything you need, the next step is to set up and cycle your aquarium. It can take a few weeks for a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria to build up in your filter media, so take this time to do as much research as possible into the needs of the fish you’re going to buy.
It can be tough to wait out your aquarium cycle. If you’ve already brought your fish home without cycling your tank, you can ask a friend with an established aquarium for help. By adding a little filtration media from an established tank, you can jump-start the cycle in your own tank.
Another great alternative is to use a liquid bacteria product like Turbo Start 700 and do a fish-in cycle. Just be sure to keep a close eye on your water parameters if you go this route.
Fritz Turbo Start is known in the industry as the fastest acting nitrifying bacteria you can purchase. This 700 version is specialized for freshwater tank and has my highest recommendation
Quarantining new fish is very important, especially if you are adding new fish to an existing tank. You never know if the new fish you bought is sick, and of course, you don’t want to introduce any illness to your existing aquarium.
I recommend putting new fish into a small quarantine tank for about 4 weeks before adding them to your main display tank. You can keep an eye on their health during this time and treat them individually if they show any signs of illness.
You can skip this step if you’re starting out with a single fish like a betta or a school of the same species.
Acclimating Your Fishes
Shipping and moving fish from tank to tank can be pretty stressful for your pets. The biggest shock often comes when they are moved from one source of water to the other. The problem is that the water conditions at your local fish store might be pretty different from the water in your tank, so how do you put fish into new water without causing shock?
The best way to add new fish to a tank is to acclimate them slowly. You can do this by floating the bag your fish came in at the surface of your aquarium. Leave the bag for a few minutes to slowly adjust to the water temperature of your tank.
Next, you can add a small amount of your aquarium water to the bag. Wait 10 to 15 minutes and repeat this process until you think all of the water in the bag is now your tank water. You’ll need to remove some water from the bag as you go to prevent it from spilling out into your tank.
Net the fish out of the bag and add them to your tank when the acclimation is complete. The water in the bag should be drained away outside of the tank to avoid introducing any unwanted organisms or parasites.
Caring
Once your aquarium is set up and you’ve introduced your new pets, you can sit back and enjoy the fascination of watching these beautiful creatures. But how do you keep them happy and healthy in their new home? Read on to learn how to care for your fish.
Feeding
Different fish species have different diets. Most aquarium fish can be fed with commercially made dried foods like flakes, pellets, granules, and wafers. Some products are made for specific species while other fish foods are great for most tropical fish.
I recommend choosing a regular dried food for your fish that you can provide on a daily basis, and then supplementing their diet once or twice a week for a more balanced diet.
Great supplements include live or frozen animals like bloodworms and brine shrimp, as well as vegetables like peas and zucchini.
How To Feed
Feed your fish once or twice a day. You should provide just enough food for the fish to finish in a minute or two.
Uneaten food will sink to the bottom of the tank where it can spoil and cause water quality issues. If you add too much food by accident, go ahead and remove as many of the leftovers as possible.
Maintaining Your Tank
Keeping your fish tank clean and healthy requires regular maintenance and water testing. Use your aquarium test kit to monitor your water quality and parameters each week to work out the perfect schedule for your tank.
You’ll need to perform a partial water change regularly to keep your nitrate levels down, and this is a great time to clean your glass, suck up waste from the bottom of the tank, and perform any other maintenance tasks.
Caring For The Sick Fishes
Fish can be affected by quite a wide variety of illnesses, just like us. Unfortunately, this is something that all fish keepers have to deal with at one stage or another. Being prepared can make all the difference, although you can never be sure about what kind of illness might occur.
Hospital Tank
I recommend keeping a small quarantine tank that can also be used as a hospital tank for treating sick fish. This way you can separate sick fish from healthy ones, just in case the illness is contagious. It will also make treating and monitoring a sick fish much easier.
Find the Cause and Treat the Problem
The biggest cause of illness in freshwater fish is stress from poor water quality, incorrect parameters, and injuries from other fish. Identifying the cause of the problem is your first priority, that way you can treat it more effectively.
Keeping some basic supplies on hand like aquarium salt and Ich-X is a good idea because they can treat many common fish illnesses.
Where To Buy
Most of the fish in this post are common species that you’ll find by visiting your local fish store. Many fish keepers do not have a decent, aquarium supply store nearby, but that’s no reason not to get started in this wonderful hobby. These days you can get your freshwater aquarium fish (and everything else you need) delivered to your door! I highly recommend Flip Aquatics if you are looking for smaller fish.
Founded in 2010. Robert and his team at Flip Aquatics have set the standard for conditioned freshwater fish. One of the best selections of freshwater shrimp and nano fish on the internet
Some fish like their water on the cooler side. This can be difficult if the temperature in your house gets really high in the summer. The best way to solve this problem is to keep your fish tank in a cool, air-conditioned room or to use an aquarium chiller or cooling fan.
Which are the smartest nonsaline fishes?
We don’t know exactly which freshwater fish is the smartest, but goldfish are probably close to the top of the list! Cichlids like Oscars can be pretty smart too, and even the good old betta or Siamese fighting fish can be trained to do some fun tricks.
Which are the most exotic nonsaline fishes?
There are so many amazing freshwater fish in the hobby that it’s impossible to pick just one! It’s hard to look past the amazing discus fish though. These gorgeous fish come in so many amazing colors and patterns, and their disk-shaped body is really unique. If you venue to all freshwater fish, Koi Fish definitely take the crown as the most expensive freshwater fish in the hobby!
Final Thoughts
The incredible variety of fish in the aquarium trade is what makes this hobby so much fun. Don’t be intimidated by all the options though, there’s a fish species on this page for any fish keeper!
If you’re looking for more information, go ahead and explore the rest of the Aquariumstoredepot website – We have loads of in-depth articles and educational resources for you to explore. If you are looking for saltwater fish check out our beginner saltwater fish guide.
Which fish do you think is the coolest of them all? Tell us about your favorite cool fish in the comments below!
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Background plants are where a planted tank really comes alive — they create the wall of green (or red) that frames everything else and gives your fish a sense of depth and security. After 25 years keeping planted tanks and working in fish stores, I’ve grown most of the plants on this list and learned which ones truly deliver and which ones are more trouble than they’re worth.
This guide covers 15+ of my go-to background plants with honest takes on each — including which ones actually need CO2 (fewer than you’d think) and the one tip that makes red plants actually turn red.
Key Takeaways
Background plants are best in the back of your aquarium
They typically represent stem plants, which have a fast growth rate and require lots of pruning
Hornwort, Water Sprite, and Anacharis are some fo the easiest background plants to care for
The Benefits For Your Tank
Live aquarium plants have so many great benefits that it’s tough to know where to start! Aquatic plants are an important part of most freshwater ecosystems, so they make your fish feel right at home. Your fish will love exploring and hiding in tall aquarium plants, and some species will even lay their eggs in them!
Living plants take in carbon dioxide and breathe out oxygen, which is what your fish need to stay active and healthy. Plants also soak up excess nutrients in the water, which would otherwise cause water quality issues and even excessive algae growth.
Aquascaping
Plants benefit our tank environment in many ways that we can’t see, but there are also obvious aesthetic benefits to growing live aquarium plants!
A simple but effective aquascape concept for planted tanks is to plant tall aquarium plants (background plants) at the back of the tank, medium-sized plants in the middle, and low-growing plants in the front.
Tall plants at the back of the tank can also be used to cover up hardware like filters and heaters in the tank, and cables and other stuff behind your aquarium.
Best Aquarium Background Plants
Now that you know what background plants are, you’re probably wondering how to choose the best species for your tank!
You can use more than one individual plant species in the background, or use a single type. Whichever route you choose to go, it’s important to choose background plants that have suitable care needs and that grow to the right size.
We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in our blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week!
I’ve included the following important information for each species so you can be sure you’re picking the right plants:
The Amazon sword is a classic aquarium plant, and the perfect species to start our list! This large rosette plant is great for beginners because it does well under moderate light and does not need injected CO2 to thrive.
The Amazon sword plant has large, bright green leaves. They can be used to create a green wall of lush growth at the back of a medium to large aquarium.
Water wisteria is a very easy background plant for planted aquariums. The leaves of this beautiful stem plant change shape as they grow larger. On young, emersed plants, the leaves are solid and broad, but on mature submerged plants, the leaves are finely textured and compound.
3. Moneywort
Scientific Name: Bacopa monnieri
Skill Level: Easy
Size: 4- 12 inches
Lighting: Moderate – high light
pH: 6-7.5
Growth Rate: Slow
CO2 Requirement: No
Moneywort is a bright green stem plant that does great in the background of planted aquariums. This slow-growing plant is easy to care for and does not need increased CO2, although it does prefer a nutrient-rich substrate.
Ludwigia Natans Super Red is an excellent red aquarium background plant. This tall stem plant should be planted in clumps to create a dense background screen.
It is very easy to propagate by cuttings. Despite its name, this plant will be green if grown under lower lighting conditions.
Ludwigia Natans Super Red is my go-to if you want red in your background. Here’s the key thing most guides leave out: red plants need iron. Without iron supplementation, they’ll stay green or wash out. Use a quality liquid fertilizer that includes iron and dose regularly — that’s what actually unlocks the deep red color. It’s not about CO2, it’s about iron.
Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae
Skill Level: Moderate
Size: 24-36 inches
Lighting: Moderate-High light
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Growth Rate: Moderate
CO2 Requirement: Yes
Cryptocoryne balansae is a beautiful, long-leaved aquarium plant that can make an effective background species for your planted tank.
These tall aquarium plants do not grow as fast as some of the traditional stem plants but the texture and movement of their leaves make this plant an interesting focal point.
Scientific Name: Vallisneria americana, V. spiralis, etc.
Skill Level: Moderate
Size: 8-20 inches
Lighting: moderate to high light
pH: 6-7.5
Growth Rate: Moderate-fast
CO2 Requirement: Recommended
There are a few great varieties of Vallisneria in the aquarium hobby, and most of them make amazing background plants. These tall, grass-like plants show amazing movement in a tank with some flow.
Vals grow by sending out runners and rooting themselves into the substrate. When they are growing well, you’ll need to control their growth by cutting the shoot and replanting the new plant where you want it.
Vallisneria is one of my personal favorites for the background. It’s not flashy, but it’s reliable — easy to grow, no CO2 required, and unlike a lot of stem plants, the pruning is actually manageable. Vals spread by runners, so once you plant a few, they’ll naturally fill in the background over time. If you’re setting up your first planted tank, this is one of the first plants I’d recommend.
Ludwigia repens can make an amazing background plant for smaller aquariums. They are one of my favorite background plants because they can provide so much color without requiring too much care. This easy stem plant stays pretty low and has awesome red color if grown in good light.
Rotala Rotundifolia red is the perfect choice for aquarists who want good color in the background. With good light, nutrients, and enough iron, this plant develops a brilliant red coloration.
This stem plant looks a little thin if planted in a single row so plant it in nice clumps for a dazzling display.
Egeria densa is a great beginner plant for the background. It has a moderate growth rate and is very easy to propagate from stem cuttings. This dense leafy stem plant does not need bright light or CO2 to thrive and is an ideal choice for a cold water aquarium.
The best features of Cryptocoryne Retrospiralis are its awesome wavy leaf texture and subtle bronzy colors. This tall aquarium plant has a moderate growth rate so it does not require frequent trimming and maintenance.
Alternanthera Rosanervig, or just AR, is one of the most colorful and vibrant background plants for freshwater aquariums. Its leaves are bright pink below and greenish above with pink veins and even its stems burst with color. For the best display, AR needs bright light and stable injected CO2.
Hornwort is an easy, fast-growing plant that does not grow roots. It can make an effective background plant in tanks without substrate if you attach it to something like a rock or a plant weight.
Worth knowing: hornwort is incredibly flexible — it works just as well floating at the surface as it does in the background. If you want to explore that option, check out my floating aquarium plants guide. One honest note: hornwort sheds needles constantly, which can clog your filter intake if you’re not on top of maintenance. Great plant, just keep an eye on your filter.
Guppy grass is another extremely easy plant to grow. This hardy plant can be grown as a stem plant by securing it in the substrate or you can simply leave it to float in the aquarium. It is a very fast-growing plant under good conditions.
The African water fern is an excellent choice for the background of tanks without substrate. It is an epiphyte which means it should not be planted but rather attached to hardscape features like rocks or driftwood.
Water sprite is a tall, fast-growing stem plant that is great for beginners. This beautiful green plant is very easy to care for and can grow pretty tall, so it is best for the background of medium to large aquariums.
Water sprite is one of those flexible plants that works in both roles — rooted in the background or floating freely at the surface. I cover it in depth in my floating aquarium plants guide as well. Either way, it’s a fast grower that’s excellent for nutrient control and keeping algae in check.
Lucky bamboo is a lesser known background plant but has been made more popular by recent tiktok videos. These plants can make a great background section in your aquarium for your fish to swim in and out of. They are hardy and easy to care for. Just make sure that you keep the leaves above water.
My take: think of lucky bamboo as an accent plant rather than a primary background plant. It works well in certain setups — especially if you’re going for a natural or Asian-inspired aesthetic — but it’s not something I’d build an aquascape around. A fun, low-maintenance addition; just let it play a supporting role.
Tank Setup
Creating a beautiful planted tank can be simple if you start out in the right way. Here’s what you’ll need:
Lighting
All background aquarium plants need light to grow, but some plants need more light than others. As a general rule, plants develop the best colors and a denser growth form under bright lighting.
Most of the plants in this article will grow well under moderate lighting conditions and it is better to provide medium light if you do not have injected CO2. Whichever light strength you choose, make sure you use a full spectrum light that is specifically designed for growing aquarium plants.
Substrate
The substrate is the layer of gravel or sand at the bottom of a fish tank. This layer can do two things for your plants. Firstly, the substrate provides an anchor point where your plants can attach themselves and grow from. The substrate also provides nutrients to the root zone of aquatic plants.
Inert substrates do not provide your plants with nutrients. They provide your plant with a place to root and grow from, and they also create a more natural look in your aquarium. A gravel substrate is a great example of this type of growing medium.
Active Substrates
This type of growing medium is a nutrient-rich substrate that ensures healthy plant root growth. Use this type of substrate in heavily planted aquariums with loads of root-feeding plants. Not all aquarium plants need to take nutrients from the substrate, however, so avoid this type of soil if you are only growing column-feeding stem plants, epiphytes, or floating plants.
The next plant requirement you need to consider is carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas is what plants breathe in. Carbon dioxide occurs all around us, and it is naturally dissolved in our aquariums at low levels.
These natural levels are enough to sustain many aquarium plants, but if you want to see the best results, you’re going to want to increase the concentration. Many amazing aquarium plants just won’t grow well without injecting carbon dioxide into your aquarium. So how do you increase your CO2 levels?
Pressurized carbon dioxide systems are available as kits, which is probably the easiest route to go. These awesome systems are designed to allow you complete control over the amount of CO2 you dissolve into the water.
If CO2 sounds intimidating, here’s the good news: many of the best plants on this list don’t need it at all. Amazon Sword, Water Wisteria, Crypts, Vallisneria, Hornwort, Guppy Grass, Water Sprite, and Lucky Bamboo all grow well without CO2 injection. The plants that benefit most are faster-growing stem plants and especially red plants like Ludwigia and Rotala. My advice: start with the no-CO2 plants, build confidence, and add a CO2 system later if you want to push things further.
The highest end offering by CO2Art. This package includes everything you need to perform consistent and the highest quality CO2 injection in the industry!
All aquariums need quality filtration, including planted tanks. This essential piece of aquarium hardware filters out visible particles and also plays a vital role in regulating your tank water chemistry.
Aquarium filters come in all shapes and sizes, and many types will work well in a planted aquarium with background plants. I recommend canister filters for planted display tanks because they hold a lot of filtration media and can be housed outside of your tank, so you won’t see too much unnatural equipment when gazing at your beautiful plants and fish.
Read this section to learn the basics of growing and caring for live plants in the background of your aquarium.
Planting & Spacing
Planting background plants in your fish tank is very easy. Most background plants must be grown submerged, which means you’ll need to have your tank set up with your substrate in place and at least partially filled with water before you plant them out.
Stem plants are usually sold in bunches. You’ll need to separate the stems before planting them into the substrate individually. These plants will look a little thin when spread out in a row across the background of your tank, but they are usually very easy to propagate, so with a little patience, you can fill up the background in a few months. A more natural-looking option is to buy a few bundles of stem plants and plant them in bunches.
Rosette plants like Amazon swords and crypts are usually sold individually in pots. These plants grow more slowly, so it is best to buy as many as you need. They should not be moved around after being planted in the substrate, so take the time to plan your layout carefully.
Fertilization
Plants need access to nutrients to stay healthy and grow. Some plants will thrive without any added fertilizer because they get enough nutrients from fish waste, but if you plan on growing healthy background plants in a beautiful planted tank, regular dosing with a quality aquarium fertilizer is usually the way to go.
Different plants access nutrients in different ways. Root feeding plants, like Amazon sword, get most of their nutrients from the substrate. An active aquarium soil will provide them with most of what they need to grow. These plants can also be grown in inert substrates but will need to be fed with root tabs to sustain their growth in the long run.
Many stem plants like hornwort access nutrients that are dissolved in the water column and do not need a nutrient-rich substrate. These plants are known as column feeders and they will require regular doses of liquid fertilizer to grow their best.
Trimming
Most stem plants are fast growing under good conditions and will need regular pruning and trimming to stay neat and tidy. A good-quality pair of stainless aquascaping scissors will make this job much easier and more fun.
You’ll need to collect all the little bits of plant that you have cut and remove them from your tank before they begin to rot (video source). The best way to do this is to use a small aquarium net with fine mesh, but you can also siphon them out with a hose or your gravel vacuum.
Tank Maintenance
Growing live aquarium plants can have amazing benefits for water quality, but with poor maintenance, the opposite can also be true.
Melting plants and trimmings left to spoil in your water can even create toxic conditions for your fish. It’s important to remove all your plant trimming and any melting/dying growth as soon as possible.
As with any aquarium, a regular maintenance schedule will keep your tank healthy and looking beautiful in the long run. Use your aquarium test kit to keep an eye on your parameters.
Regular partial water changes will reset the nutrient levels in your tank and keep your water safe for your fish and plants.
Pests & Other Problems
Most of the popular freshwater fish can be kept in planted tanks without any problems, but some species are notorious for destroying live aquarium plants. These are some of the fish that you should avoid:
Algae growth is the most common problem in planted tanks. Solving algae outbreaks can be tough, but you’ll almost always be able to succeed by making a few changes to the following:
Tank maintenance schedule
Lighting
Carbon dioxide levels
Fertilizer use
Plant numbers
Water temperatures
Where To Buy Them
Many of the background plants in this article can be found at your local fish store. Another great way to buy your plants is to order them online from trusted experts in the field. Where it is rare to find tissue culture plants when it comes to backgrounds plants, if you can find them buy them as they are pest free.
Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!
A healthy wall of living plants is my favorite kind of fish tank background, although you can use solid black, white, or even backlight backgrounds while your plants grow in.
What is a background plant?
A background plant is usually a tall plant that is used to cover the back wall of the aquarium. These are mostly stem plants, although tall, long-leaved rosette plants can also make a great choice.
How big do aquarium plants get?
Each different species of aquarium plant can grow to a different size. They range in size from foreground plants that reach an inch or less to tall species that can grow to several feet. Their ultimate size also depends on their growing conditions, however. Expect your plants to grow larger and healthier with good light, injected carbon dioxide, and regular doses of fertilizer.
Do Bettas need tall plants?
Betta fish love planted aquariums. They will benefit from just about any kind of aquarium plant, although they definitely enjoy hanging out in taller plants with large leaves.
What is the fastest-growing aquarium plant?
Hornwort is one of the fastest-growing aquarium plants in the hobby. This species can make a great background, but it will require regular trimming and maintenance to keep it under control.
Final Thoughts
Aquarists have long known that live plants can be used to create a beautiful and healthy aquarium. Deciding which plants to grow can be tough, but the 15 species highlighted in this guide are all amazing options. If you haven’t started growing live plants in your fish tank, why not start today?
Do you grow live plants in the background of your fish tank? Tell us about your favorite plants in the comments below!
🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide — your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
Building a community tank is one of the most rewarding things you can do in this hobby — and also where beginners make the most mistakes. After 25 years keeping and working with freshwater fish, I’ve found that a great community tank always comes down to one thing: doing your homework before you buy. This list covers 21 of my go-to community fish, with honest takes on which ones are truly peaceful, which ones come with caveats, and how to think about compatibility before you stock your tank.
I’ve also included a matching guide covering water parameters, size, swimming level, and temperament — read it before you head to the fish store.
What Are Community Fish?
Good community fish are species that can live peacefully with other types of fish. They are not aggressive or dangerous to their fish tank mates in any way. The ideal community tank fish species are:
Peaceful fish
Compatible with other species
Interesting and attractive to observe
Hardy and adaptable
How To Match
The first rule when matching fish for your community tank is to stock them together with other peaceful aquarium fish. You can check out the fish compatibility chart I have posted for an easy-to-reference guide.
There are also a few less obvious factors to consider, however. Here’s what you need to know:
Water Parameters
All the species in your freshwater tank should be comfortable in the same water parameters. That means they should be comfortable with the same, water temperature, pH, and water hardness. As a rule of thumb, many tropical aquarium fish will prefer softer and slightly acidic water. It’s really easy to buffer your system with natural decorations like driftwood.
Size
In most cases, you should aim to stock your aquarium with similarly sized fish. This is useful for planning how many fish you can keep in your tank and for preventing predation.
Remember, almost all carnivorous or omnivorous species will eat other fish that are small enough to fit in their mouths!
Swimming Level
A healthy mix of bottom dwellers, mid-water, and top-water swimming species will prevent overcrowding in the aquarium. Having fish that swim on all levels of the tank will also create a busier, more lively display tank.
Biotopes
Mixing fish breeds from different parts of the world can be very in interesting, but you can also keep things more natural. Many aquarists enjoy matching species that live together naturally in the same region or natural habitat to create biotope tanks.
For example, a South American river biotope could include species like corydoras catfish, neon tetras, and blue rams. An Asian stream biotope would be another great option and could include fish like the honey gourami and cherry barb.
Beyond biotopes, the two most important compatibility rules I’d give any beginner: first, match sizes — don’t put fish small enough to fit in another fish’s mouth. It sounds obvious, but it’s the most common stocking mistake I see. Second, understand aggression across the full life cycle. A fish that’s peaceful as a juvenile can become territorial when it breeds — angelfish are the perfect example. Research behavior at maturity, not just how they look in the store tank.
21 Of The Best Community Fish Species
Now that you know what community species are and how to match them, it’s time to get to know some of the best species of fish for your freshwater aquarium. Pay attention to the following information when considering each species:
Here’s a video from our YouTube Channel for those who are visual learners. I’ll go into further detail in our blog post. Please subscribe to our YouTube channel if you find our content helpful.
Let’s get started!
1. Cory Catfish
Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1-4 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10-30 gallons (depending on species)
Origin: South American
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 5.5-7.8 (depending on species)
Water Temperature: 72-82°F (depending on species)
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Simming Level: Bottom
There are more than 160 known species of these wonderful aquarium fish. Although Corydoras catfish spend most of their time on the bottom, these funny little fish will shoot up to the surface every now and then to take a breath of air. Corydoras catfish should be kept in groups of 6 or more to see them at their most playful and comfortable.
Cory catfish are genuinely one of my favorite community fish. They’re endlessly entertaining — always busy sifting through the substrate, and they’ll make you laugh when they dart up to the surface for a breath of air. With 160+ species, there’s a cory for almost any tank size, and they’re incredibly peaceful. I’d include them in almost any freshwater community setup.
2. Rasboras
Scientific Name: Rasbora spp., Boraras spp., etc
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75-6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 5-55 gallons (depending on species)
Origin: Asia
Diet: Omnivorous/carnivorous
pH: 4-8 (depending on species)
Water Temperature: 68-82°F (depending on species)
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, topwater
There are many different rasbora species in the hobby, ranging from tiny fish like the chili rasbora up to the much larger scissortail species. These Asian schooling fish tend to be very peaceful and make wonderful peaceful community fish. Rasboras are some of the smallest fish in the hobby too, so they are a great choice for nano fish community setups.
Guppy fish are the perfect community species for tropical aquariums with a water pH of over 7. These popular fish come in a wide range of different colors and often have big flowing fins.
Guppies are great beginners fish because they are very adaptable and easy to care for. They are livebearers, so if you keep males and females together you can expect to see loads of little fry in your tank!
4. Platies
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus spp.
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2-3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Origin: North & South America
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 6.8-8.5
Water Temperature: 70-82°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, topwater
Like guppies, platy fish are peaceful livebearers that are available in some awesome breeds. They will make an ideal small community fish for your freshwater aquarium and have the added benefit of helping out with algae control.
5. Molly
Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops & P. latipinna
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 3-5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Origin: North & South American
Diet: Omnivore
pH: 7-7.8
Water Temperature: 68-82°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
Molly fish are excellent peaceful aquarium fish for fish keepers with naturally hard water. Like other livebearers, these fish breed freely in the aquarium. These larger livebearers are available in many different colors and fin shapes.
6. Sword Tails
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus helleri
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size:3-6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Origin: Central America
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 7-8.5
Water Temperature: 64-82°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
Swordtails are yet another highly popular livebearer that is available in a huge variety of colors and breeds. What sets swordtails apart is their distinctive long tail fins! They are great community fish for beginners and will do best if kept in a group of one male and a few females.
Cherry barbs are beautiful and peaceful aquarium fish from the goldfish family. These active and colorful fish add rich orange-red color to your aquarium. The cherry barb fish is a social species that should be kept in groups of 6 or more fish to see them at their best.
8. Dwarf Gouramis
Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Origin: South Asia
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 6-7.5
Water Temperature:72-82°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
A pair of dwarf gouramis make a wonderful addition to a peaceful community aquarium. These graceful labyrinth fish are both beautiful and peaceful. Dwarf gouramis are available in many different breeds such as the flame,neon blue dwarf, and honey gouramis for example.
⚠️ Honest warning: dwarf gouramis have become increasingly fragile in recent years due to Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus (DGIV), which is widespread in the hobby and notoriously difficult to treat. They’re still beautiful community fish when healthy — just buy from a reputable source, quarantine new arrivals, and watch them closely.
9. Zebra Danio
Scientific Name: Danio rerio
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Origin: India
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 6.5-7.5
Water Temperature: 64-75°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
Swimming Level: All levels
Zebra danios are active fish that love darting around the aquarium. These peaceful freshwater community fish can thrive in relatively low water temperatures, making them a great choice for unheated aquariums, and they also get along with lots of fish. These hardy fish are available in long-finned, golden, and Glofish varieties.
These colorful little danio fish are also known as the galaxy rasbora. They are an excellent choice for planted nano community tanks.
Celestial pearl danios are very peaceful creatures although males may display and spar with each other. These shy little fish will do best if kept with other peaceful nano fish.
The bristlenose pleco is a very strange and interesting-looking suckerfish. These bottom-dwelling catfish are very peaceful towards their tankmates, but should not be kept in groups with their own species. Bristle nose plecos love grazing on driftwood and they are very helpful in cleaning some kinds of soft algae.
Neon tetras are a stunning fish! These south American beauties are one of the most popular community species in the hobby because of their great color and easy care. Neon tetras are peaceful schooling fish that are perfect for everyone from beginners to experts.
The cardinal tetra is very similar to the neon tetra but is even more colorful! The main difference between the two species of tetras is the red stripe on the cardinal tetra which extends the whole length of the fish’s body. Cardinals are also slightly larger than neons, but at just over an inch long, they’re still very small fish.
14. Congo Tetra
Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Origin: Central Africa
Diet: Carnivorous
pH: 4-8
Water Temperature: 75-81°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
The Congo tetra is one of the most beautiful tetras in the hobby. Congo tetras are native to Africa, unlike most other species which occur in South America. They are very peaceful but can be pretty shy if kept with larger or very active fish.
Worth noting: Congo tetras do best in larger tanks. They’re on the bigger side for tetras and can get stressed or outcompeted in smaller, busier setups. I’d give them at minimum a 40-gallon — they really shine in a 55 or 75-gallon where they can school properly and their colors fully develop.
15. Black Skirt Tetra
Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.4 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Origin: South American
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 6-7.5
Water Temperature: 70-82°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
The black skirt or black widow tetra is a really cool schooling tetra for community tanks. They might not be the most colorful tetras but their bold black markings and curios fin and body shape make up for that. These interesting-looking fish are very peaceful if kept in schools of at least 6 fish or so.
⚠️ Honest note: black skirt tetras are hit or miss as community fish. They can be nippy — especially in smaller, more crowded tanks. They do much better with plenty of space. Green Aqua has a fantastic YouTube video showing angelfish and black skirts coexisting peacefully in a 4-foot tank — it can absolutely work, but tank size matters a lot here.
These tiny sucker fish feed on algae, which helps to keep the glass, plants, and other surfaces in your tank clean. It’s fascinating to watch them feed as they stick to the glass, but they will also swim around in the midwater of the tank if kept in a school of at least 6 fish or so. Otos are great fish for the planted aquarium but should not be added to tanks that do not produce any algae.
17. Ram Cichlids
Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi & M. altispinosa
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Origin: South America
Diet: Omnivorous
pH: 4-7
Water Temperature: 81-86°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, bottom
If you thought all cichlids were big and mean, think again! Rams are small, shy fish that can be kept in community tanks with the right tankmates. It is best to keep just a pair of these stunning cichlids unless you have a tank of 40 gallons or more. Ram cichlids (video source) are tropical fish that need high water temperatures, so make sure their tank mates are compatible.
18. Glass Catfish
Scientific Name: Kryptopterus vitreolus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Origin: Southeast Asia
Diet: Carnivorous
pH: 4-7
Water Temperature: 68-79°F
Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
Swimming Level: Midwater, top
The glass catfish is perfect for aquarists who want something a little more unusual in their tank. These Asian catfish are translucent, and you can see practically every bone in their bodies! They are very calm fish that prefer to school together, so make sure you keep at least 5 of them in the same tank.
Dojo loaches are an awesome addition to a larger peaceful community tank. They are also known as weather loaches because they seem to know when the weather will change! These eel-like bottom feeders are very hardy and make a great choice for unheated aquariums. If this loach is too large for your aquarium, you can look at these other loaches in this post.
White cloud mountain minnows are another beautiful fish that can be kept in unheated aquariums. These colorful schoolers prefer cooler water than most tropical fish. They are available in beautiful golden and long-finned forms, although the wild type looks just as good if you ask me!
The Glofish are a collection of several genetically modified fish species that just burst with color! For a really amazing display, try keeping these fish in a tank with blue LED lighting.
Not all of the Glofish species are peaceful aquarium fish, but the glofish tetras and zebra danios are perfect! The glofish barbs, betta fish, and sharks are more aggressive fish that should not be added to a community.
FreshwaterTank Setup
When choosing a freshwater tank for a community, bigger is generally better. Most of the species in this list will be happiest if kept in a group of 6 or more individuals, so the numbers add up quickly as you introduce new species to the tank.
Luckily, that doesn’t mean you need a huge aquarium to put together an awesome community! A 30-gallon tank or larger would be an awesome place to start, but you can have great success with a tank of half this size too.
Once you’ve chosen your tank size, it’s time to get it set up for your fish. Read on to learn how.
Substrate & Decorations
Adding substrate and decorations to your aquarium can do more than just make it look pretty.
The substrate also provides a place for your fish to forage and for plants to root themselves. Decorations and hardscape features like lava rock and driftwood also create structure and hiding places where your fish can explore and relax.
You can get creative with your choice of substrate color, although fish tend to be most comfortable over darker natural colors. Make sure your substrate, hardscape, and ornaments are aquarium-safe and thoroughly washed before adding them to the tank.
Filtration
Apart from the tank itself, there are a few important pieces of hardware that you will need to put together a great fish community. The most important of these is the filter. We run into several filter types in freshwater aquariums. From easiest to most high end they are:
Your choice will depend on factors like your budget and stocking rate, but be sure to select a model that is designed for your aquarium size or larger. Canister filters are often considered the pinnacle in filtration systems with freshwater tanks. A model like the OASE Biomaster will get you professional level filtration that will last for years.
With an easy to remove prefilter chamber and intregrated heater chamber, this is the most advanced canister filter you can buy today. German engineered and aquascaper approved!
Lighting is one of the pieces of gear we run into if we are looking into planted tanks. You want a light that is full spectrum and will support plant growth. An easy to use moderately powered light like the Current USA Serene RGB is great for someone who want to venture into keeping many plants. Plants are great for your community fish as it makes them feel safer.
Providing a natural period of daylight is important for your fish’s health. Run your freshwater aquarium lighting on a timer so that it switches on and off automatically at the same time each day. 8 hours of lighting per day is recommended.
Heating
Most of the popular freshwater aquarium fish are tropical species that require consistently warm water temperatures. For most of us, that means an aquarium heater is an essential piece of equipment. Choose a model designed for your tank size that has an adjustable temperature range.
If you do not want to run a heater, you can opt to house coldwater fish. There are many peaceful community fish that will tolerate room temperature or lower water
Live Plants
A planted aquarium has many amazing benefits for your fish. Aquarium plants help to clean and oxygenate the water, and floating plants can help your fish feel safer and more confident.
You don’t need to rush into growing a high-tech, heavily planted tank, however. Low light and beginner plants are great to try. Here would be a few examples:
Now that you know how to set up a great environment for your freshwater aquarium community, it’s time to learn about care and maintenance!
Maintaining beautiful fish tanks and healthy fish is all about consistency. Once you settle into the right routine and habits, your tank will really thrive.
Community Tank Maintenance
Cleaning and maintaining your freshwater community aquarium regularly will keep your fish healthy and your tank looking great. You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor your water quality. This will help you determine your water parameters and whether you’re performing enough maintenance on your tank.
Set aside a little time every week or two to perform a partial water change. This will reduce the concentrations of nitrate (a by-product of fish waste, decaying plant matter, and uneaten fish food) to keep the water safe and healthy.
This is the perfect time to suck up any dirt that has collected on the substrate and to clean algae off the glass. Inspect your filter media and rinse it out with the water you have removed from the tank. The new water you put in should be treated with a water conditioner and brought up to the same temperature as the rest of your tank before being added.
Feeding
Feeding aquarium fish a healthy, balanced diet is essential for their long-term care. Different fish have different diets, but most freshwater community species will thrive on a high-quality pellet or flake food as their regular food source. Frozen food is great to try if you can get your fish to eat it. Bottom dwellers can miss out on fish flakes and floating foods, so provide them with sinking tablets or pellets.
Supplementing their diet with unprocessed food sources will help to bring out the best in their colors and behaviors. The following supplementary treats are recommended:
Brine shrimp
Insect larvae like bloodworms
Vegetables
Algae eaters like otocinclus catfish need a healthy source of algae to feed on. They should not be introduced to new, algae-free tanks for this reason. If your algae eaters have depleted the algae in your tank, their diet should be supplemented with blanched vegetables, algae wafers, and gel foods.
Overfeeding fish is one of the biggest causes of poor water quality and ammonia spikes in home aquariums. To prevent this, feed your fish once or twice a day and provide only as much food as they can finish in a minute or two. It’s also a good idea to observe your fish and make sure that all of them can access enough food.
Breeding
Different species of fish have different breeding strategies. As a general rule, however, the community aquarium is not a good place for breeding fish.
This is because most fish love eating the eggs and fry of their tank mates! If you plan on breeding your fish, your best bet is to set up a small, dedicated breeding tank and carefully research the best method for your specific species.
Where To Buy
All of the species in this list are common and easy to find. Your local fish store is usually a great place to shop for community species, and they will usually have most (or even all) of these fish in stock.
If you’re looking for a safe and convenient alternative, consider buying from a reputable online dealer!
FAQs
What varieties can live together?
With enough space and compatible water parameters, just about any similarly sized and peaceful fish can live together. Remember to keep each species in a big enough group to keep them peaceful and confident.
What big fish can live in a community tank?
Although the species in this list are all relatively small fish, there’s nothing to stop you from putting together a large fish community tank. The same rules apply, only you’ll need a much bigger tank! The rubber lip pleco, angelfish, and clown loaches are all great examples of larger freshwater fish for a community tank.
What is the most peaceful fish?
Otocinclus catfish are probably the most peaceful community fish in the hobby. These tiny algae eaters are great for the established planted community tank and they’re even safe to keep with shrimp and most snails.
What tropical fish are like these?
There is a large number of tropical community fish in the hobby. Most of the tetras, rasboras, and livebearers are great examples. It is very important to research the needs and behavior of any fish breed before adding it to a community tank.
What fish are generally known as this type?
Fish species that are calm and peaceful with other fish are generally referred to as community species. These fish can live together in harmony without causing their other tank mates any harm. Most tend to be small and won’t display aggression to other fish or attempt to eat them.
Final Thoughts
Setting up your first freshwater community tank is an awesome experience that we aquarists never forget. Choosing the right fish for your freshwater aquarium can be a little daunting at first, but if you choose from this list, you’ll have nothing to worry about. Just remember to take your time, do your research, and have fun!
Do you have your own aquarium with community fish? Let us know about your favorite community species in the comments below!
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide — your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
Choosing the right aquarium size is one of the most important decisions you’ll make as a fish keeper — and one where I see beginners go wrong most often. I’ve personally owned and run 5-gallon, 10-gallon, 20-gallon, 29-gallon, 40-gallon, 65-gallon, and 125-gallon tanks over my 25 years in the hobby, across both freshwater and saltwater setups. Trust me when I say: bigger is almost always easier.
This guide covers every standard aquarium size with real specs, honest pros and cons, and my personal recommendations for each — so you can pick the right tank the first time.
Key Takeaways
Bigger is always better for your fish.
Weight is important when choosing fish tank sizes. Each gallon of water already weighs 8.3 pounds, but empty weight, substrate, and hardscape all add up.
Consider your available space, budget, and the kind of fish you want to keep before choosing your tank size.
Large tanks require less frequent maintenance than small fish tanks.
Choosing A Tank – What To Consider
Setting up a fish tank is a long-term commitment, so it’s not something you want to jump into without considering all the facts. Let’s take a look at the most important factors when choosing aquarium dimensions.
Size
The length, depth, and height of your aquarium determine which kind of fish you can keep. Different species grow to different sizes and have different activity levels and territorial behaviors.
If you are setting up an aquarium for a specific species, you’ll need to research its minimum tank size first.
Weight
Water is surprisingly heavy, and so is glass and aquarium substrate. The weight of your aquarium is usually more important to think about than its size. Aquariums in the 5 to 15-gallon size range can often be kept on sturdy furniture, but anything bigger is going to require a proper stand.
Consider both the empty and full weight of a tank, and remember, it’s not only the stand that you need to consider but also what’s underneath it.
There are definite limits to the amount of weight your floor can handle, and that depends on a bunch of factors, like which floor you’re on and how your building was built.
Power
Aquariums need electricity to run, and the larger your tank, the larger your power bill. Most aquariums require heating, and all need filtration. Modern aquarium hardware is very energy efficient, but keeping a large tank warm in a cold environment is going to need energy. Some older homes, especially with reef tanks, make not have the breakers to handle a larger setup.
20 amps circuits are ideal for larger high-powered setups.
Cost
Generally speaking, aquarium prices increase with size. The same rule applies to hardware, lighting, decor, substrate, stands, and pretty much everything else.
Permission
You’ll need to consult your landlord/lady about permission to keep an aquarium if you’re renting, and size might well be an issue. There might also be weight limits in your building, so do your homework before you buy something too big.
Maintenance
Aquarium maintenance is one factor that actually decreases with aquarium size. Basically, the larger a tank, the more stable its water quality and the less maintenance it needs per gallon. Of course, this one’s really going to depend on how many fish you keep, how big they are, and what they eat.
Standard Aquarium Sizes
Aquariums come in all shapes and sizes, including cylinders, bow front, and hexagons (see our video above from our YouTube Channel). Their designs vary slightly depending on the manufacturer, and even the material they are made of varies, with glass aquariums and acrylic aquariums being the most popular options.
Choosing odd aquarium shapes and sizes takes careful planning, but fortunately, most fish tanks come in standard rectangular sizes. Standard-size glass tanks are also easy to find in kits that may include a hood, lighting, and sometimes other equipment like stands, heaters, and filters.
Even though standard fish tank sizes are, well, standard, there may be a slight difference in actual aquarium dimensions between different manufacturers and by trim type. I recommend you confirm the exact dimensions with a tape measure before you buy the wrong box!
Keep reading as we look at standard fish tank size options and the pros and cons of each one.
Small Fish Tanks
Small aquariums vary from less than a gallon up to 15 gallons. The major benefits of a small aquarium tank are low cost, and low space requirements, although they are not necessarily easier to maintain. Small tanks are recommended for small freshwater fish and invertebrates.
Let’s take a look at some popular small aquarium tank size options.
5-Gallon Tank
The 5-gallon aquarium is the smallest size you should consider for keeping fish. This is a great tank size for your desk at home, at work, or even at your bedside.
However, your options are very limited when it comes to choosing fish, and maintaining good water quality can be tricky. This aquarium size is best if you want a single betta or inverts in a compact freshwater tank.
I’ve kept a 5-gallon and I’ll be honest: small tanks are actually harder to maintain than larger ones, not easier. Parameters can shift fast — a missed water change, a temperature swing in summer or winter, or forgetting to top off evaporated water can cause real trouble quickly. A 5-gallon is a perfectly fine betta home if you’re diligent, but it doesn’t forgive neglect the way a larger tank does.
A ten-gallon fish tank is still considered a nano aquarium, although it provides more options when choosing aquatic pets. Ten-gallon tanks are cheap to set up, and a little easier to maintain than the 5-gallon size. These tanks are also easy to find as complete kits.
Medium fish tanks are the ideal choice for beginners who want a wide choice of fish species. The water volume in these tanks allows a little more room for error than in a small tank, although their filled weight makes them too heavy for most home furniture.
Read on to learn about the most popular medium-sized fish tanks.
20-Gallon Tanks
The 20-gallon aquarium size opens up a whole lot more options for fish keepers because these fish tanks are great for small, peaceful communities. This is also the minimum recommended size for saltwater fish like clownfish.
The 20-gallon capacity aquarium is available in two standard sizes with the same capacity. The long option is generally preferred, although the 20-gallon high is also a great choice, particularly if you want to grow taller plants or don’t have a lot of floor space for your aquarium.
For freshwater fish keeping, my personal recommendation for beginners is the 20-gallon long. It gives you enough water volume to keep parameters stable, opens up your stocking options significantly, and is still very manageable. I also strongly believe in running one tank at a time — especially when starting out. Get one 20-gallon running well before thinking about adding more. Don’t spread yourself thin.
Dimensions: (L x W x H):
Long 30 x 12 x 12 inches or 76 x 30 x 30 centimeters
High 24 x 12 x 16 inches or 61 x 30 x 41 centimeters
Dry Weight: 25 pounds or 11 kilograms
Wet Weight: 225 pounds or 102 kilograms
Pros
Great tank size for a small community
Easier to maintain than smaller tanks but still light and compact
Cons
May require a stand
Still too small for many popular tropical fish species
The 29-gallon aquarium is one of the best all-round choices, particularly for beginner fish keepers. This is the minimum tank size for many medium-sized freshwater fish like goldfish and angelfish, although it is also an excellent size for a busy community of small fish.
The 29-gallon fish tank is also a step up in height, which is great for growing a variety of aquarium plants. This aquarium size is also great as a hospital or quarantine tank for medium and larger fish.
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 30 x 12 x 18 inches or 76 x 30 x 46 centimeters
Dry Weight: 40 pounds or 18 kilograms
Wet Weight: 330 pounds or 150 kilograms
Pros
Stable water parameters
Enough room for a variety of different fish
Available in kit form
Cons
At over 300 pounds, this fish tank usually requires a well-built aquarium stand
Stocking options
A varied community, including centerpiece fish, bottom dwellers, and schooling fish
Angelfish
Fancy goldfish
40-Gallon Tanks
The 40-gallon aquarium allows you to keep ‘wet pets’ like the blood parrot cichlid or even younger specimens of larger species like oscars and flowerhorns.
This is a great tank size for three or four fancy goldfish with good filtration or even a cool water setup with a slow-swimming fancy goldfish and some white cloud minnows or ricefish.
40-gallon tanks are available in a ‘breeder’ tank or a standard long shape, which is longer and narrower but has the same depth. The longer option is a great size for more active swimming fish like giant danios.
Dimensions (L x W x H):
Breeder 36 x 18 x 16 inches or 91 x 46 x 41 centimeters
Long 48 x 12 x 16 inches or 122 x 30 x 41 centimeters
Large aquariums are necessary to provide a healthy home for medium to large salt and freshwater fish. Aquarium weight becomes more important than aquarium dimensions when setting up these tanks, especially if you live above the ground floor.
Let’s take a look at some popular options and what you can keep in them.
55-Gallon Tank
The 55-gallon aquarium size is entering the category of large aquariums. This is the minimum tank size for an African cichlid community, although your options are limited to a few species.
You can also keep some of the larger Central American cichlids in this aquarium tank size, including oscars and severums. Of course, all the fish mentioned for smaller tanks will also be happy in this larger tank size.
The 55-gallon is where I’d point anyone serious about African cichlids or saltwater fish. For African cichlids, it’s the realistic starting point — though I’d lean toward a 75-gallon if your space and budget allow. For saltwater, a 55-gallon gives you enough water volume to keep parameters stable for most fish. It’s a serious tank that rewards serious hobbyists.
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 48 x 13 x 21 inches or 122 x 33 x 53 centimeters
Dry Weight: 78 pounds or 35 kilograms
Wet Weight: 628 pounds or 285 kilograms
Pros
Stable water conditions
Variety of stocking options, including saltwater fish
Cons
Increased depth makes reaching the substrate more difficult during maintenance
Too large for sponge filtration
Stocking options
Varied community tank with angelfish school
Small African cichlid community
75-Gallon Tank
The 75-gallon aquarium is 4 feet long, just like the 55-gallon, but the extra width just increases the amount of floor space in the tank, allowing you to create a more diverse aquascape and keep even more fish or larger species.
This is a great size to create a healthy long-term home for large Central American cichlids like Jack Dempseys and Flowerhorns.
The 75-gallon is my sweet spot for serious freshwater setups and a solid entry point for a saltwater reef. For African cichlids specifically, this is where they really have room to establish territories without constant aggression from overcrowding. On the saltwater side, this is the size I’d recommend to most reefers who want to keep corals long-term. More water volume = more stability = more margin for error.
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 48 x 18 x 21 inches or 122 x 46 x 53 centimeters
Dry Weight: 140 pounds or 64 kilograms
Wet Weight: 850 pounds or 386 kilograms
Pros
Ideal long-term home for wet pets like full-grown Oscar cichlids
Cons
Does not offer many benefits over the 55-gallon but is significantly heavier
Medium-sized community fish like silver dollars and rainbowfish
Saltwater reef tank
125-gallon Tank
The 125-gallon tank is an excellent 6-foot option for serious fish keepers. Setting up a large aquarium takes time, but the results can be amazing!
I ran a 125-gallon reef tank and it was one of the most rewarding setups I’ve had. The scale — the fish, the corals, the whole living ecosystem — is something you simply can’t replicate in smaller tanks. But I want to be real: the maintenance commitment goes up significantly. Water changes take real prep work. Lighting for a 6-foot tank, especially for corals, gets expensive fast. Go in with eyes open, and it’s absolutely worth it.
There’s almost no limit to the variety of fish you can keep in a tank of this size, and they are pretty easy to find. In fact, 6-foot tanks are often available in kit form.
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 72 x 18 x 21 inches or 183 x 46 x 53 centimeters
Dry Weight: 206 pounds or 93 kilograms
Wet Weight: 1400 pounds or 635 kilograms
Pros
Big enough for most popular salt and freshwater aquarium fish in the hobby
The 150-gallon has all the same benefits as the 125 but has that little bit of extra volume for added water stability. It has the same dimensions at the bottom, which means you don’t need to spend more on substrate and hardscape, which really adds up to the cost of a tank setup.
Dimensions: (L x W x H): 72 x 18 x 28 inches or 183 x 46 x 71 centimeters
Dry Weight: 338 pounds or 153 kilograms
Wet Weight: 1800 pounds or 816 kilograms
Pros
This aquarium tank has the same floor space as the 125 but even more water volume
The extra height of a 150 allows more complex aquascaping options
Cons
Complete 150-gallon tanks are extremely heavy and often unsuitable for upper floors
Extra depth makes maintenance more difficult
Stocking options
Almost all the well-known freshwater aquarium fish and most large variety of reef species
When it comes to fishkeeping, bigger is almost always better. Fish live out in rivers, lakes, and oceans where they have huge amounts of space to swim and explore. This means that aquariums are never too big for fish, but they are often too small.
If you have the space, budget, and floor strength for a larger aquarium, why not go all out and build your dream setup? Your fish will thank you for it!
What people consistently underestimate about very large tanks is the ongoing maintenance. Water changes don’t just take more water — they take more time, more prep, and more equipment. Lighting becomes a real investment once you go beyond a 2-foot tank, especially for reef or high-tech planted setups. My advice: only go as big as you can realistically maintain. A well-maintained 75-gallon will always outperform a neglected 200-gallon.
Quick Tank Chart
For those who prefer a quick list to reference, here is a chart with all the aquarium sizes we discussed. Happy shopping!
Gallons
Dimensions (Imperial)– LxWxH
Dimensions (Metric) – LxWxH
Estimated Filled Weight
5 Gallon
16 x 8 x 10 inches
41 x 20 x 25 centimeters
62 lbs (28 KG)
10 Gallon
20 x 10 x 12 inches
51 x 25 x 30 centimeters
111 lbs (50 KG)
20 Gallon Long
30 x 12 x 12 inches
76 x 30 x 30 centimeters
225 lbs (102 KG)
20 Gallon High
24 x 12 x 16 inches
61 x 30 x 41 centimeters
225 lbs (102KG)
29 Gallon
30 x 12 x 18 inches
76 x 30 x 46 centimeters
330 lbs (150 KG)
40 Gallon Breeder
36 x 18 x 16 inches
91 x 46 x 41 centimeters
458 lbs (207 KG)
40 Gallon Long
48 x 12 x 16 inches
122 x 30 x 41 centimeters
458 lbs (207 KG)
55 Gallon
48 x 13 x 21 inches
122 x 33 x 53 centimeters
628 lbs (295 KG)
75 Gallon
48 x 18 x 21 inches
122 x 46 x 53 centimeters
850 lbs (385 KG)
125 Gallon
72 x 18 x 21 inches
183 x 46 x 53 centimeters
1400 lbs (635 KG)
150 Gallon
72 x 18 x 28 inches
183 x 46 x 71 centimeters
1800 lbs (816 KG)
FAQs
What is a good fish tank choice?
All fish tank sizes have their place, it really depends on the kind of fish you wish to keep. Standard-size aquariums tend to be the most affordable and easiest to find. If you’re just starting out and want a small and affordable tank that can hold plenty of beautiful community fish, consider a 29-gallon capacity tank.
Larger pet fish like oscars usually need 55 gallons or more, but you can scale down to a betta tank of just 5 gallons if you want a wonderful small pet fish.
How big is a 24x12x12 tank?
A 24 x 12 x 12-inch tank is a standard 15-gallon or 2-foot aquarium. This is an excellent size for a nano community aquarium or a basic planted tank with small schooling tetras. There are many stocking options available for this tank size, although the small volume of water makes frequent maintenance important.
What are the dimensions of a standard tank?
Standard tank dimensions vary depending on the volume of water they hold. Popular small aquarium sizes include 2-foot, 3-foot, and 4-foot tanks.
Is Taller Or Wider Better?
Wider tanks are better than taller tanks in most situations. A bigger surface area or ‘footprint’ provides more space for swimming, territories, and aquascaping. However, there are some cases where a tall tank is ideal. Tall fish species like angelfish require deeper water and many of the taller stem plants will not fit in shallow planted aquariums.
Final Thoughts
Choosing your aquarium’s dimensions takes careful planning, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be fun! Use this guide to help make an informed decision; just remember to factor in how much space you have and the water weight on your tank before making a purchase.
What is your favorite tank size? Let us know in the comments below! Also check out our YouTube channel for more videos.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide — your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
An aquarium carpet is one of the most stunning things you can create in this hobby — but it’s also one of the most misunderstood. After years working with planted tanks, I want to give you an honest picture of what it actually takes to grow a carpet, which plants are achievable for your setup, and where beginners go wrong.
My personal go-to carpet plant is Monte Carlo — it’s what I reach for when I want a reliable, beautiful result. But not every plant on this list has the same requirements, and that CO2 question needs a straight answer before you buy anything. Let’s get into it.
What Are Carpeting Plants?
Have you ever seen an aquascaped aquarium that has a floor covered in dense green foliage? The plants used to create this effect are known as carpeting plants, and there are many species available in the aquarium trade.
The best plants for this are low-growing and spread laterally to cover the floor. Most aquarium plants are grown rooted in the substrate, but epiphytes and mosses can be grown to cover hardscape features and in other creative ways.
These carpet plants are used in a number of different aquascape styles including various nature-style and biotope setups. Carpet plants are also very important in Iwagumi and other minimalist aquascapes.
The Benefits
A carpet of plants looks great, but these plants offer a number of other great benefits to your aquarium too. These include:
Nitrate assimilation- Plants use harmful nitrogen compounds like nitrates and ammonia to grow, effectively removing them from your aquarium by turning them into healthy green growth.
Oxygenation- Plants release oxygen molecules in the water which live animals like fish need to survive.
Habitat creation- Carpet plants create the ideal environment for small animals like shrimp to hide and also create the perfect spawning grounds where fish eggs can be deposited.
11 Best Aquarium Carpet Plants
Now that you have a better idea of what a carpeting plant is, it’s time to learn more about the 11 best aquarium plant plant species for beautiful planted tanks.
For each type, I’ll be listing the following information to make your choice easier:
If you are a visual learner, check out our YouTube video above. We publish new videos every week. We go over more details in the blog post below. So let’s get started!
Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is one of the best aquarium carpet plants because it stays low and is effective for forming a dense carpet. This all-green aquatic plant has small, rounded leaves that create a soft and lush look in the foreground of the aquarium.
It has a fast growth rate if given enough light and performs best with increased CO2 levels. Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is such a versatile plant that it can even be grown as an epiphyte attached to hardscape features.
Monte Carlo is my personal go-to carpet plant — the one I reach for when I want a reliable, beautiful result. I’ve worked with it directly and it delivers that dense, lush look that makes an aquascape. It grows well under good light with CO2, and it’s versatile enough to attach to hardscape as well. If you’re only going to try one carpet plant, this is the one I’d point you to.
Dwarf hairgrass is one of the favorite carpeting plants in the aquascaping hobby because it has amazing color and texture. In fact, a dwarf hairgrass carpet can really look just like a grass lawn!
This aquatic plant spreads by runners, so it can cover the bottom of the tank with horizontal growth. Growing a very dense carpet of dwarf hairgrass will require more intense lighting levels, injected CO2, and a rich substrate.
Dwarf baby tears (or pearl weed) is an amazing aquarium carpet plant for the more experienced aquarist. I say experienced because this aquarium plant requires great water quality, high quality lighting, and most importantly, stable co2 injection levels to thrive.
The reward is an amazing carpet plant with finer texture and smaller leaves than the similar ‘Monte Carlo’. This is the right aquarium carpet plant for nano planted aquariums that need a fine-textured ground cover.
Dwarf sagittaria is a great beginners plant that can be grown as a carpet or mid-ground aquarium plant. It has a coarser texture, resembling a broadleaf grass plant. This plant thrives in coastal regions and it is one of the best carpet plants for aquarists who have harder water.
Dwarf sagittaria is easy to propagate and can be grown in a low-tech planted tank. For a dense carpet, however, this swarf sagittaria will perform best with high light and CO2.
Java moss is a favorite in planted tanks because it is just so versatile! It can be used to create a healthy carpet over the substrate, hardscape, and even walls of the aquarium.
The important thing to understand about Java moss is that it does not grow rooted in the substrate. This means it must be attached to the surface by tying it, gluing it, or sandwiching it between aquarium-safe mesh.
Java Moss is a perfectly acceptable beginner carpet — bulletproof, easy to attach, and grows without CO2. But I’ll be honest: it won’t give you that showstopping, high-end carpet look that more experienced hobbyists are after. Think of it as a gateway carpet plant. It’ll get you the feel for how carpeting works, and you can level up from there.
This aquarium plant makes a fantastic carpet over hardscape features like driftwood and lava stone, but it can also be grown over a fiber mat and positioned anywhere in the aquarium. Like Java moss, this species is adaptable to low lighting and can be grown in a low tech tank.
Christmas Moss is my recommendation if you want a beautiful carpet effect without a CO2 system. I’ve worked with it and love the flexibility of being able to attach it to rocks, driftwood, or any hardscape — you get a lot of creative options. It’s much more forgiving than the high-tech carpet options and a great choice for low-tech planted tanks.
Elatine hydropiper is still a relatively rare carpeting plant for planted aquariums. This species has tiny leaves and this makes it a great choice for nano aquariums!
Like most carpeting plants, Elatine hydropiper requires good light and stable CO2 levels to stay low and healthy. Many growers choose to begin this aquatic carpet plant with a dry start to allow good root development.
Common Name: Dwarf four-leaf clover, four-leaf clover
Origin: Australia
Skill Level: Easy
Lighting: Medium-high
Temperature Range: 68-84°F
Flow Rate: low-moderate
CO2 Requirement: Recommended
The Marsilea species are great foreground carpeting plants when grown under medium to high light. You probably know the four leaf clover as a good luck charm, but this aquatic plant makes a really great aquarium carpet too! These plants are actually tiny ferns and they can be grown in medium light, although more light will be preferred.
The micro sword is a great foreground plant that loves nutrient-rich growing conditions. This grass-like plant has a medium blade width, somewhere between that of the dwarf hair grass and dwarf sagittaria. Micro sword can stay compact and form a great carpet if grown under high light and planted close together.
Glossostigma, or glosso for short, is a beautiful carpeting species that is best for more experienced aquascapers. Glosso might not be the easiest aquarium carpet plant to grow, but it is a hardy species with a very wide temperature tolerance.
Its light green leaves can form a thick carpet if given high light and access to good carbon dioxide levels. Under these conditions, glasso will grow fast and takes very well to trimming.
The last aquarium plant in this list is not a traditional carpeting species, but it can make a wonderful aquarium carpet plant for small areas. Anubias Nana Petite is a slow-growing species, so you will need plenty of patience if you plan on propagating it from just a few plants.
On the plus side, this hardy plant will thrive in a low tech tank. It can be used to form a carpet over hardscape features, and because of its slow growth rate, it requires very little maintenance.
One of the few plants on this list that genuinely doesn’t need CO2. Anubias Nana Petite grows slowly, so once it’s established you won’t be trimming it constantly — but patience is required getting there. Best used for smaller carpeted areas or accent patches rather than trying to fill an entire tank floor.
How To Grow
Anyone can grow a beautiful carpet of aquatic plants with the right knowledge and equipment. Read this section to learn everything you need to know to get started!
Planting
Being smart about how you position your carpeting plants can save you both time and money. Plants like dwarf hairgrass that grow rooted in the soil should be separated into small sections and planted in a grid pattern. In time, the plants will spread to cover up the area if growing conditions are good.
You can plant each section using your fingers, but a long pair of stainless aquarium tweezers can make the task much easier and more precise.
Epiphytes like the mosses and anubias do not grow rooted in the substrate and will need to be attached to your hardscape. There are many ways to do this, including gluing the plants down or simply attaching them with fine thread or fishing line.
The Dry Start Method
The dry start method (DSM) is a fast and reliable way of starting a carpeted aquascape. This method works by placing the substrate and hardscape into an empty tank and moistening the soil only. The plants are placed in their positions and allowed to grow emersed until they have established strong and healthy root systems.
Placing a clear layer of saran wrap/cling film over the top of the tank will lock in the moisture and create the high humidity levels the plants experience in their natural habitat. Your lighting needs to be in place and you can set the timer for 12 hours a day or even more because algae will not be a problem. There will be enough CO2 in the air while the plants are growing emersed to promote fast growth.
This is the approach I recommend for anyone serious about growing a carpet. The Dry Start Method gives your plants time to establish a strong root system before you flood the tank, which dramatically reduces the chance of the carpet floating loose or dying out in patches. If you’re committed to growing a carpet, start dry — don’t skip this step.
Unfortunately, there are some downsides to the dry start method that must be considered:
This method is only possible for starting a new planted tank
The tank will still need to be cycled when it is filled before you can add any fish
You can expect some melting as the plants transition from emersed to submerged growth
Only plants that can be grown emersed should be started with this method. Here are some ideal species that you can use:
Java moss
Dwarf hairgrass
Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’
Dwarf baby tears
Not all plant species are suitable for the dry start method. The following types of plants should be avoided:
Check out the video above from my buddy Aaron. He highlights dry start and the planting methodl.
Substrate
Knowing how to plant your carpeting plants is an important first step, but where you plant them is just as crucial. Most species will need a nutrient-rich environment in which to anchor themselves and absorb the nutrients they need. Some potential carpeting plants like anubias and Christmas moss do not need any substrate at all.
There are many excellent substrate products on the market today that can be reliably used to grow incredible carpets. Some aquarists prepare their own ‘dirt’ mediums, but I would recommend starting out with a quality premade substrate like ADA Aqua Soil or Tropica. Aquarium soils are designed to include the nutrients plants need while providing the ideal structure for rooting and water flow.
Filtration is just as important for your plants as it is for fish. Decaying plant material is a major cause of elevated ammonia levels.
The beneficial bacteria involved in biological filtration are essential for breaking this down into nitrates which is a less harmful compound. Fortunately, plants use nitrates as a source of nutrients, so live plants can work hand in hand to maintain great water quality!
Of course, filters also trap physical waste particles, taking them out of suspension and making a cleaner, better-looking aquarium. Water flow is a factor that should not be overlooked when maintaining a planted aquarium. Plants need good water flow to access carbon dioxide and nutrients in the water column.
There are many different types of filters available on the market, but I suggest buying the best quality unit you can afford. An external filter is the best option because it is able to house large amounts of filtration media with plenty of surface area for bacterial colonization.
Internal filters can be used for smaller nano aquariums, but the downside is that they tend to take up a large amount of space inside the tank.
Lighting
You’re going to need a good light source to maintain a healthy carpet of live plants. Different plants have different light requirements, but all species need light to grow.
As a general rule, plants grow shorter, denser, and more compact under intense lighting levels. In low light, plants will stretch themselves up to get closer to the light source above them, and that’s no good when growing a carpet!
Lighting technology has come a long way, and the modern aquarist can choose between excellent LED and fluorescent lighting designed specifically to maximize plant growth. The strength and spectrum of the light produced do vary between products, so choose a model that suits your goals. The height of the aquarium also needs to be considered because light intensity diminishes quickly with depth.
Of course, timing is important too. Your lighting should be set on a timer to start up and switch off automatically. Six to eight hours per day is the ideal photoperiod, and going longer than that can cause some algae issues.
Carbon Dioxide
All plants need carbon dioxide (CO2) in order to live and grow. CO2 is all around us and occurs naturally in your aquarium. Unfortunately, the levels are not high enough to promote the kind of dense, lush grow aquarists seek.
A lack of CO2 can result in a low growth rate, smaller leaves, and vertical rather than spreading growth. Many carpeting plants will survive in low CO2 environments, but will not grow low and dense, but rather tall and thin.
To maintain the perfect CO2 concentrations in your planted aquarium, you will need to set up a pressurized system. These systems are great for maintaining CO2 levels within a safe range and creating optimum plant growth in the aquarium.
The highest end offering by CO2Art. This package includes everything you need to perform consistent and the highest quality CO2 injection in the industry!
A typical CO2 system (like the one linked above) will include:
Pressurized CO2 canister
CO2 regulator
Diffuser
Bubble counter
Drop checker
An injection system like this should be run on a timer that starts it up an hour or two before the lights go on and then shuts it down when the lights go out. Using this equipment allows you to maintain stable, ideal concentrations of CO2 while the lights are on, the time when the plants need it the most.
Maintaining
Getting your plants to grow and thrive is the first goal, but maintaining that growth rate and keeping them looking at their best is just as important in the long run.
Regular aquarium maintenance is very important, so don’t forget to perform regular partial water changes and bring out your water test kit to test your parameters. Read on for more useful information on caring for carpeting plants.
Fertilizer
Aquarium carpet plants do not only gather the nutrients they need from the soil. These plants also need nutrients in the water column for the most rapid growth.
Root feeding plants gain the majority of the nutrients they need from the soil around their roots and they will thrive in a rich aquarium soil. Aquarium soils do become leached in time, but this doesn’t mean you have to uproot everything and start over!
Root tabs are small, slow-release fertilizer capsules that can be inserted into the soil around the roots of your plant. They are a long-lasting solution that delivers the nutrients directly to the root zone.
Aquarium carpet plants will also benefit from liquid plant food dosing. I recommend a product like APT Complete that contains both the macro and micro-nutrients that plants need.
Trimming and shaping your aquarium carpet plants is very important to keep your aquascape looking its best. Whether you’re looking for a low, tight covering of plants, or a progression towards larger plants that creates depth, you’re going to need to stay on top of trimming.
Trimming your plants will also encourage lateral growth and the development of a healthy root system. A curved pair of aquascaping scissors make this job a breeze. Straight scissors have a place too, especially when it comes to creating neat edges.
Before we move on, here’s a very important trimming tip! Remember to net out all your plant trimmings when you’re done. This will prevent them from spoiling in the tank and affecting your water quality.
Algae and Pest Management
Not all things that grow in aquariums are welcome! Algae growth is probably the biggest challenge that you will face when maintaining any planted aquarium.
This can be a very temporary problem that resolves itself as your plants become established and begin to outcompete the algae for nutrients. There are also ways to use nature to fight algae for you.
Some fish and invertebrates feed specifically on algae, and these aquatic friends will be more than happy to do their bit! The following species make great clean-up crew members:
Check out this complete guide for more detailed information on aquarium algae.
Common aquarium pests like snails often hitch a ride into aquariums on live plants. To avoid this, I definitely suggest growing tissue culture plants. Plants in a tissue culture cup have been grown under sterile lab conditions, so sterilizing and quarantining aren’t essential.
Where To Buy
Growing live aquatic plants has become increasingly popular, and more and more fishkeeping stores have begun stocking a range of live plants. I prefer to grow tissue cultured plants because it prevents any unwanted pests from being introduced. These aren’t always easy to find, but trusted online retailers stock great product ranges at great prices!
FAQS
What is the best carpet plant for aquariums?
Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is one of the best all-around carpet plants for aquariums. These plants can create a full, bushy carpet if given good light, and they can even grow without CO2 under certain conditions.
How do you take care of a carpet plant?
Carpet plants need to be fertilized and trimmed from time to time. They also require good water quality, so regular aquarium maintenance and water changes are very important too.
Do carpeting plants need CO2?
All plants need CO2, but some need more of this gas than others. All carpeting plants will grow better with a pressurized CO2 system, and some species like dwarf baby tears should not be attempted without it.
What is the easiest aquarium carpeting plant?
Java moss is one of the easiest carpet plants to grow because it is so versatile. When it comes to achieving a perfect green cover at the bottom of the aquarium, however, Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is probably the easiest.
Final Thoughts
If you ask me, there’s nothing better than a heavily planted tank with a beautiful green carpet. You can use the species and tips in this article to grow your own amazing aquarium carpet. Happy growing!
Do you love growing aquarium plants? Let us know about your favorite species in the comments below!
🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide — your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
