Tag: Aquarium Plant Profiles

I’ve been keeping aquariums for over 25 years, and floating plants are still one of my favorite things to add to any freshwater setup. I started working at local fish stores early in my hobby journey, and it was there that I really fell in love with what a good canopy of floating plants can do for a tank. they make everything look more natural, more alive, and honestly more like a slice of a real river or jungle stream.

In this guide, I’ll walk you through the 16 best floating aquarium plants based on my hands-on experience. including my personal top picks, the ones I use in my own setups, and a few honest warnings about the plants that can turn into a real nightmare if you’re not careful. Let’s get into it.

What Are Floating Aquarium Plants?

Floating aquarium plants come in many different shapes and sizes. When we talk about floating plants in the aquarium hobby, we don’t only mean aquatic plants that literally float on the water surface, with parts of the plant sticking out of the top of the water.

In addition, aquatic plants that are not rooted to the substrate, but drift freely in the water column are also included in this category. Most species are green overall, but some like the Red Root Floater have a bit more color.

The Benefits Of Floating Plants For Your Tank

Let’s face it, a lidless set up with floating aquarium plants looks amazing. This kind of setup creates such a fascinating and natural appeal that it’s almost impossible to walk past without staring.

Unfortunately in most tanks, the surface is covered by a hood, but of course, there are often practical reasons for having a lid! Many freshwater aquarium fish are strong jumpers and will end up on the floor if they are kept in a topless aquarium, so you need to think carefully for the safety of your livestock.

Floating plants look great from whichever side you’re looking at them, and those types that grow on the surface of the water usually have great root systems that hang down into the water, which looks really cool.

Oxygen & Food

Floating plants are very popular in smaller aquariums like betta fish tanks, shrimp tanks, and other nano setups. This is because they’re really helpful in keeping conditions stable and safe in the freshwater aquarium.

One of the benefits these aquatic plants provide is oxygen! Plants use carbon dioxide and give off oxygen, which is what your fish need to breathe. Since most floating plants are fast-growing, they are able to produce plenty of oxygen.

In addition, micro-organisms and other life forms grow on the roots and other plant surfaces. These provide a great food source, particularly for shrimp and fry.

Cover For Your Fish

Apart from good looks, floating plants have loads of benefits for your fish and inverts. Floating plants that create a lot of structure in the water column make great places for fish to lay their eggs, and for fish fry and baby shrimps to hide in, safely away from hungry mouths.

Species that have leaves that cover the water surface really help to bring out the best in many fish species. Fish feel safer and have lower stress levels under aquatic plant cover. This is because small fish have many predators that hunt them from above out in nature.

Nutrient And Algae Control

Most floating aquarium plants grow without rooting themselves in the substrate. This means they are very good at getting all the nutrients they need from the water column. This is good news because high nutrient levels in the water can be very harmful to your livestock, and also tends to result in loads of algae!

Beneficial bacteria are able to colonize the surfaces of the plant and this really helps with the aquarium cycling process. These bacteria convert harmful toxins in fish waste into nitrates that the plants use as food. In fact, when plants are soaking up the nitrates, the need for water changes is reduced a whole lot! That doesn’t mean you don’t need good aquarium filtration of course.

Removing nitrates from the water isn’t the only way that floating plants help to control algae. Floating plants that cover the water’s surface also block out light from above, and without light and nutrients, algae won’t grow.

Other freshwater aquarium plants that grow below your floating plants also need nutrients and light of course. This competition can be a big problem if you add floating plants after planting other plants in the tank, especially types that need a lot of light.

Now that you know more about the pros and cons of floating aquarium plants, it’s time for me to introduce you to the list of amazing species for your home aquarium!

The 16 Best For Freshwater Tanks

I’ve put together this amazing list of the most popular and effective floating plants that you can grow in your aquarium to make your choice a lot easier. I’ve included surface floaters like Amazon Frogbit that can cover the surface of your aquarium, as well as submerged plants like Water Sprite, that grow in the water column.

So let’s get started with our list and get to know the top 16! Check out our YouTube video from our channel above. We got you covered in more detail from our blog below!

In A Hurry? Check All The Best Floating Plants at BucePlant!

1. Red Root Floater

• Scientific Name: Phyllanthus fluitans
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-High
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Red Root Floater is an amazing floating plant from South America that does well in just about any freshwater aquarium. The leaves of this plant are green if grown under low light, but turn a deep red with high lighting. These floating plants have awesome red roots, no matter what sort of lighting you use.

Red Root Floaters grow fast and will quickly cover the water surface of your fish tank. Controlling its growth is easy. just pull out a handful every week or so. This is my personal #1 recommendation for most aquariums. I’ve grown Red Root Floaters in multiple setups over the years, and the color transformation under high light is genuinely stunning. You go from green to deep crimson in just a few weeks. If you want one plant that immediately makes your aquarium look like something from a nature documentary, this is it.

2. Fern

• Scientific Name: Salvinia natans
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-High
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Salvinia natans is a really cool floating freshwater plant option for aquariums with lower water temperatures. This low-maintenance plant species has green, air-filled leaves with interesting, hair-like structures on their top surface.

The leaves of this plant can measure a little over an inch in size but are usually smaller in the home aquarium. These aquatic plants don’t have a very large root system and will grow best in low-flow tanks.

3. Dwarf Water Lettuce

• Scientific Name: Pistia stratiotes
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-High
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Dwarf Water Lettuce is a green floating plant that is native to Lake Victoria in East Africa. The leaves of the Dwarf Water Lettuce plant grow about 1.5 inches long and are soft and velvety in texture.

Dwarf Water lettuce plants grow dense roots that trail down into the fish tank, providing great places for shrimp and small fish to hide. Its well-developed roots also make Dwarf Water Lettuce a great aquatic plant for reducing nitrate levels in fish tanks.

One thing worth noting that often gets overlooked: Dwarf Water Lettuce works just as well in outdoor pond setups as it does in aquariums, making it one of the more versatile plants on this list. It’s also worth comparing directly to Amazon Frogbit. Water Lettuce has noticeably bigger leaves, meaning more surface coverage per plant and a bolder visual impact. For nutrient control in a larger or outdoor setup, it’s one of my top recommendations.

4. Salvinia cucullata

• Scientific Name: Salvinia cucullata
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-High
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

This interesting floating plant is native to the tropical regions of Asia. It is a floating fern that is not very well known in the hobby but makes an excellent addition to the planted fish tank.

The leaves of this aquarium plant are less than half an inch in size and, under ideal conditions, curl upwards to form an interesting bag shape. Achieving this form in the planted aquarium, however, requires good light, plenty of nutrients, and still water conditions.

5. Subwassertang

• Scientific Name: Lomariopsis lineata
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Low-Medium
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating
• Growth Rate: Low-Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

Subwassertang (or Susswassertang) is a German name that translates to English as ‘freshwater seaweed’. This is a really interesting species of plant that not that much is known about. In fact, the leaves of this floating plant are just one cell thick!

Subwassertang floats freely in the aquarium and does not produce roots or need any substrate to grow. This is a plant that is very popular with shrimp keepers.

6. Crystalwort Riccia

• Scientific Name: Riccia fluitans
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-Moderate
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Attached To Hardscape
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

If left to grow naturally, Riccia fluitans will form a mat at the surface of the aquarium. It is a versatile floating plant that can also be grown attached to hardscape features or attached to mesh though.

This beautiful species of plant can be found growing all over the world. It provides great habitat for small fry and shrimps in your aquarium.

7. Banana Plant

• Scientific Name: Nymphoides aquatica
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Moderate-High
• Tank Placement: Midground or Foreground
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

The Banana Plant is native to the Southeastern United States. This low maintenance aquatic plant does send roots into the substrate, and can be rooted and allowed to grow to the surface, or left to float and send roots down. These are beautiful and interesting water lily-type plants that can flower if given good light and left to grow mature.

8. Mosaic Plant

• Scientific Name: Ludwigia sedioides
• Skill Level: Advanced
• Lighting: High
• Tank Placement: Midground
• Growth Rate: Slow-Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

The Mosaic plant is a truly spectacular floating plant. The leaves of this plant are dark green with red edges and close up each night before reopening when the sun rises.

Unfortunately, this plant requires some space and needs to be planted in ponds or larger freshwater aquariums to grow to its full size and glory. This plant produces plenty of beautiful yellow flowers when it is growing well.

9. Duckweed

• Scientific Name: Lemna minor
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Moderate-High
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Duckweed is a very small floating plant that reproduces quickly in the aquarium. This tough floating plant is very efficient for removing nitrates from the water.

Each plant is bright green and floats above the water surface with small hanging roots. I’ll be straight with you from my years working in fish stores: Duckweed is a nightmare once it gets established. Every microscopic piece left behind becomes a new colony. I’ve seen tanks take months to clear after a Duckweed infestation. If you want nutrient control and surface cover, you’re almost always better off with Amazon Frogbit or Red Root Floaters. plants you can actually manage. If you still want Duckweed, just know exactly what you’re signing up for.

10. Amazon Frogbit

• Scientific Name: Limnobium Laeviatum
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Moderate
• Tank Placement: Surface
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Amazon Frogbit is a very popular South and Central American floating plant option that can be grown on the water surface of the planted aquarium. The spongy leaves of this plant can be left to cover the surface of your aquarium and the hanging roots provide great habitat for your fish and livestock.

Fortunately, Amazon Frogbit is low maintenance and pretty easy to control because the plants are not super small. This plant has become an invasive weed in parts of North America, so be careful about disposing of it outdoors. Amazon Frogbit is my other go-to recommendation, especially for beginners. In my experience, fish absolutely love hovering under a Frogbit canopy. I’ve watched bettas build bubble nests right underneath it. It’s fast-growing, easy to scoop out, and the hanging roots create a habitat that fish genuinely thrive in.

11. Hornwort

• Scientific Name: Ceratophyllum demersum
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Moderate-High
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating
• Growth Rate: Moderate-Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Hornwort is a very popular and very easy-to-grow aquarium plant. This stem plant lacks true roots and is not rooted in the substrate.

It will float in the aquarium, providing great cover for small fish and shrimps. This makes the Hornwort plant a popular choice for breeders who keep grow-out tanks without substrate.

My honest caveat with Hornwort: it sheds. A lot. If you’re the type of aquarist who likes a pristine-looking tank, be aware that Hornwort constantly drops needles as it grows, and those needles get everywhere. into your filter, across your substrate, floating around the tank. It’s not a dealbreaker, but it’s the one thing I always warned customers about before they added it to a display tank they cared about.

12. Java Moss

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia dubyana
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-Moderate
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Attached, Carpet, Walls
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

Java Moss is one of the most versatile, and popular aquatic plants in the hobby. These low-maintenance plants do not require any special lighting or equipment and can be used in all sorts of different ways.

Like most floating plants, Java Moss is really useful for protecting eggs and creating a hiding place for small fry, and shrimps from hungry bigger fish.

In my experience, Java Moss is about as bulletproof as freshwater plants get. I’d recommend it to any beginner without hesitation. My personal preference leans toward plants with a more dramatic look, but Java Moss has a practical advantage that’s hard to overlook: fish notorious for picking apart plants will usually leave it completely alone. It’s also a column feeder, meaning you can attach it to rocks and driftwood and it’ll grab on and grow in place beautifully.

13. Water Wisteria

• Scientific Name: Hygrophila difformis
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-Moderate
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Water Wisteria is a very easy and fast-growing plant that is a great choice for beginners because it does not need CO2 or strong light. It is quite similar to the Water Sprite and the two plants are sometimes confused.

The leaves of this plant look quite different in their emersed form and really change shape when grown underwater. The Water Wisteria plant can be rooted in the substrate, or simply floated in the aquarium.

14. Anacharis

• Scientific Name: Egeria densa
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-Moderate
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
• Growth Rate: Moderate-Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Anacharis is another easy stem plant for beginners that can be grown floating in the aquarium, or rooted in the substrate. The Anacharis plant grows very well in cool water and cooler tropical aquariums.

Anacharis is a fairly fast-growing and hardy plant, that can grow to a large size. It is best to grow this plant in medium to large aquariums so that it doesn’t take over a nano aquarium. It is one of the best floating aquarium plants for beginners.

15. Water Sprite

• Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Moderate
• Tank Placement: Submerged Floating, Rooted In Midground/Background
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Water Sprite is a great floating stem plant that grows wild in tropical areas all around the world. It is suitable for beginners and is easy to grow, providing many great benefits in the home aquarium. This aquarium plant can be left to float in the water or grow rooted in the substrate.

Honestly, Water Sprite is one of the most underrated plants in the hobby. It gets a bad reputation as an aggressive grower, but that fast growth rate is actually one of its biggest advantages. it’s a godsend for nutrient control. I’ve used it in setups where I needed to rapidly bring nitrates under control, and it delivers every time. If you’re a beginner who wants a floating plant that genuinely works hard for your tank, Water Sprite belongs on your shortlist.

16. Brazilian Pennywort

• Scientific Name: Hydrocotyle leucocephala
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Medium
• Tank Placement: Foreground, Midground, Background, Submerged Floating
• Growth Rate: Moderate-fast
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Brazilian Pennywort is a great South and Central American plant that is easy to grow and doesn’t need much maintenance. Although this plant will grow best under moderate lighting, it can adapt to low light conditions and a wide range of temperatures. This floating stem plant can be grown rooted or allowed to float freely in the fish tank.

The Biggest Mistake I See With Floating Plants

After 25 years in this hobby and time spent at multiple fish stores, the number one issue I see beginners run into with floating plants is lighting. specifically, floating plants shading out everything below them.

We’d regularly have customers come in frustrated that their stem plants or carpeting plants had melted or stopped growing. Nine times out of ten, they had a surface covered in Frogbit or Duckweed blocking nearly all the light from reaching lower plants. The fix is simple: use floating rings to section off part of the surface, or be selective about how much coverage you allow based on what else you’re growing. If you’re running high-light carpeting plants, be very conservative with your floating plant coverage.

Tank Setup

Floating plants are easy to grow, but do have a few special needs. For most of the species in this list, a substrate is not necessary, and that means these plants are ideal for aquarists who want the benefits of a planted fish tank, without substrate and hardscape.

Let’s take a closer look at how to set up your aquarium for these awesome aquatic plants.

Going Lidless/Hoodless

Plants that grow above the top of the water usually don’t do very well in the extreme humidity that occurs above the surface if you keep a hood on your tank. It is possible to grow a surface floating plant type with a hood but to really appreciate these plants, you’ll want to view them from above anyway.

This means you’ll want to set up your tank without a lid (aka Rimless Tank). You’ll need to be very careful about the kinds of fish you keep in a lidless aquarium of course because many fish will jump right out.

If you already have active fish and still want to grow floating plants without a lid, you may have to consider fitting some sort of screen over the top.

Lighting

Without a hood over your aquarium, you will need an alternative way to set up your lighting. Fortunately, there are plenty of different lighting options that can be used.

Clip-on lights are one of the best systems, but hanging fixtures, LED strips, and even desk lamp-style options will work.

Selecting The Right Filter

Even though floating plants are amazing for soaking up nutrients and improving water quality, a good quality filter is still essential. Most floating plants grow best in still water conditions so a fish tank with a low flow is definitely recommended. This means choosing the right filter can be very important.

Surface skimming filters are definitely not recommended for surface-growing plants. Choosing the right kind of filter is also very important when growing unrooted plants that drift in the water.

This is because these plants are delicate and the leaves and stems tend to break up and get sucked into filters, causing a blockage. The best way to avoid this is to use a sponge filter or to cover the intake of your power filter with a pre-filter sponge. If you are running a power filter, try using hardscape features like rocks and driftwood to break up the current.

Care and Instructions

Growing floating plants in your freshwater tank is very easy, and something that any aquarist can do. Let’s take a look at the most important aspects of floating plant care:

Feeding

Floating plants are water column feeders, and they can get most or all of the nutrients they need from fish waste and uneaten food in the fish tank. If you don’t have fish, or just want to get the best growth rate out of your plants, providing a liquid supplement, like APT Complete is definitely recommended.

CO2 Injection

Most floating plants don’t need high-tech conditions. A plant like Amazon Frogbit that floats on the surface of the aquarium has unlimited access to CO2 from the atmosphere around it. Floating plant species like Java Moss that grow beneath the surface are not so lucky, and many of them will benefit from added carbon dioxide.

Propagation

Floating plants are some of the easiest plants to propagate in the home aquarium. Although the flowering species can reproduce by seed, most species are very easy to grow by division.

The mother plant will often produce small plantlets that can be separated or allowed to detach themselves and continue to grow. Stem plants and mosses can simply be divided and allowed to float.

Tank Maintenance

Tank maintenance is a very important part of keeping a healthy aquarium. Many species of floating plant will thrive in high nutrient systems and can be very helpful in improving water conditions.

In heavily planted tanks, almost all of the nitrates in the water can be used by the plants, but I would still recommend you make regular partial water changes. It is important to test your water regularly to keep an eye on these parameters, so make sure you pick up a liquid test kit and test for nitrates when you’re changing water.

Heavily planted tanks will usually have very little algae growth, but keeping the substrate or floor of the tank clean with your gravel vac is still very important.

Keeping Them In Check

In many cases, these aquarium plants grow really fast and multiply quickly in a fish tank. This means they can fill up your aquarium, or completely cover up the water surface in no time at all.

Small floating plants that multiply can be pulled out of the tank very easily, but you might have to do this a few times a month. Some species, like Duckweed, can multiply incredibly fast, and this will keep you quite busy.

Many aquarists use floating rings to keep surface-growing plants from covering certain areas. This is a great way to keep your plants from shading out the other plants below.

Tank Mates

Floating plants can be so effective in controlling algae in the planted aquarium, that they cut out the food source for algae-eating animals. Fortunately, algae wafers can be used to feed your algae eaters, but generally speaking, you should avoid growing a lot of floating aquarium plants if you keep animals like:

• Otocinclus Catfish
• Siamese Algae Eaters
• Plecos
• Amano Shrimps
• Nerite Snails

If you plan on keeping your tank without a hood, you’re going to need to consider the safety of your fish, and avoid keeping species that are known for jumping. Unfortunately, most freshwater fish can easily jump out of lidless tanks so this is always a risk.

Pests and other problems

Being such fast-growing plants, it’s really important that you dispose of unwanted plants very carefully. Many floating plants will turn into an invasive weed and really take off if they get into your local waterways, posing a real threat to native plants and animals.

Small species like the water fern and duckweed can be pretty messy and will tend to stick to your arms and equipment during tank maintenance.

Snails and other organisms very often hitch a ride into your fish tank when adding new floating plants. For this reason, I would definitely advise you to buy tissue culture specimens wherever possible because they are grown under sterile lab conditions. You can learn more about tissue culture plants from the video by Utah State University below.

Where To Buy Floating Plants

Floating plants are very popular in the hobby and can usually be picked up from your local fish-keeping store. I prefer to buy from trusted online retailers because they tend to have the best range of species and tissue cultures.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

After 25+ years in this hobby, floating plants remain one of my favorite additions to any freshwater setup. They’re one of the few things that simultaneously improve your tank’s looks, water quality, and the wellbeing of your livestock.

My personal recommendation if you’re just getting started: pick up some Red Root Floaters or Amazon Frogbit. Both are easy to control, look incredible under good lighting, and will immediately elevate any aquarium. Just stay away from Duckweed until you really know what you’re getting into. trust me on that one.

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

Background plants are where a planted tank really comes alive. they create the wall of green (or red) that frames everything else and gives your fish a sense of depth and security. After 25 years keeping planted tanks and working in fish stores, I’ve grown most of the plants on this list and learned which ones truly deliver and which ones are more trouble than they’re worth.

This guide covers 15+ of my go-to background plants with honest takes on each. including which ones actually need CO2 (fewer than you’d think) and the one tip that makes red plants actually turn red.

The Benefits For Your Tank

Live aquarium plants have so many great benefits that it’s tough to know where to start! Aquatic plants are an important part of most freshwater ecosystems, so they make your fish feel right at home. Your fish will love exploring and hiding in tall aquarium plants, and some species will even lay their eggs in them!

Living plants take in carbon dioxide and breathe out oxygen, which is what your fish need to stay active and healthy. Plants also soak up excess nutrients in the water, which would otherwise cause water quality issues and even excessive algae growth.

Aquascaping

Plants benefit our tank environment in many ways that we can’t see, but there are also obvious aesthetic benefits to growing live aquarium plants!

A simple but effective aquascape concept for planted tanks is to plant tall aquarium plants (background plants) at the back of the tank, medium-sized plants in the middle, and low-growing plants in the front.

Tall plants at the back of the tank can also be used to cover up hardware like filters and heaters in the tank, and cables and other stuff behind your aquarium.

Best Aquarium Background Plants

Now that you know what background plants are, you’re probably wondering how to choose the best species for your tank!

You can use more than one individual plant species in the background, or use a single type. Whichever route you choose to go, it’s important to choose background plants that have suitable care needs and that grow to the right size.

We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in our blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week!

I’ve included the following important information for each species so you can be sure you’re picking the right plants:

• Scientific Name
• Skill Level
• Size
• Lighting
• pH
• Growth Rate
• CO2 Requirement

Now let’s get started!

1. Amazon Sword

• Scientific Name: Echinodorus bleheri
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 4-20 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6.5- 7.5
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No, recommended

The Amazon sword is a classic aquarium plant, and the perfect species to start our list! This large rosette plant is great for beginners because it does well under moderate light and does not need injected CO2 to thrive.

The Amazon sword plant has large, bright green leaves. They can be used to create a green wall of lush growth at the back of a medium to large aquarium.

2. Water Wisteria

• Scientific Name: Hygrophila difformis
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 10 – 20 inches
• Lighting: Low-Moderate
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Water wisteria is a very easy background plant for planted aquariums. The leaves of this beautiful stem plant change shape as they grow larger. On young, emersed plants, the leaves are solid and broad, but on mature submerged plants, the leaves are finely textured and compound.

3. Moneywort

• Scientific Name: Bacopa monnieri
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 4- 12 inches
• Lighting: Moderate – high light
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Slow
• CO2 Requirement: No

Moneywort is a bright green stem plant that does great in the background of planted aquariums. This slow-growing plant is easy to care for and does not need increased CO2, although it does prefer a nutrient-rich substrate.

4. Ludwigia Natans Super Red

• Scientific Name: Ludwigia natans
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 6-20 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6-7
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Ludwigia Natans Super Red is an excellent red aquarium background plant. This tall stem plant should be planted in clumps to create a dense background screen.

It is very easy to propagate by cuttings. Despite its name, this plant will be green if grown under lower lighting conditions.

Ludwigia Natans Super Red is my go-to if you want red in your background. Here’s the key thing most guides leave out: red plants need iron. Without iron supplementation, they’ll stay green or wash out. Use a quality liquid fertilizer that includes iron and dose regularly. that’s what actually unlocks the deep red color. It’s not about CO2, it’s about iron.

5. Cryptocoryne Balansae

• Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne crispatula var. balansae
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Size: 24-36 inches
• Lighting: Moderate-High light
• pH: 6.5 – 7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Cryptocoryne balansae is a beautiful, long-leaved aquarium plant that can make an effective background species for your planted tank.

These tall aquarium plants do not grow as fast as some of the traditional stem plants but the texture and movement of their leaves make this plant an interesting focal point.

6. Vallisneria

• Scientific Name: Vallisneria americana, V. spiralis, etc.
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Size: 8-20 inches
• Lighting: moderate to high light
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate-fast
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

There are a few great varieties of Vallisneria in the aquarium hobby, and most of them make amazing background plants. These tall, grass-like plants show amazing movement in a tank with some flow.

Vals grow by sending out runners and rooting themselves into the substrate. When they are growing well, you’ll need to control their growth by cutting the shoot and replanting the new plant where you want it.

Vallisneria is one of my personal favorites for the background. It’s not flashy, but it’s reliable. easy to grow, no CO2 required, and unlike a lot of stem plants, the pruning is actually manageable. Vals spread by runners, so once you plant a few, they’ll naturally fill in the background over time. If you’re setting up your first planted tank, this is one of the first plants I’d recommend.

7. Ludwigia Repens

• Scientific Name: Ludwigia repens
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 4-8 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6-7
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Ludwigia repens can make an amazing background plant for smaller aquariums. They are one of my favorite background plants because they can provide so much color without requiring too much care. This easy stem plant stays pretty low and has awesome red color if grown in good light.

8. Rotala Rotundifolia Red

• Scientific Name: Rotala rotundifolia
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Size: 4-8 inches
• Lighting: High light
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Rotala Rotundifolia red is the perfect choice for aquarists who want good color in the background. With good light, nutrients, and enough iron, this plant develops a brilliant red coloration.

This stem plant looks a little thin if planted in a single row so plant it in nice clumps for a dazzling display.

9. Egeria Densa (Anacharis)

• Scientific Name: Egeria densa
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 4 – 12 inches
• Lighting: Low – Moderate
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

Egeria densa is a great beginner plant for the background. It has a moderate growth rate and is very easy to propagate from stem cuttings. This dense leafy stem plant does not need bright light or CO2 to thrive and is an ideal choice for a cold water aquarium.

10. Cryptocoryne Retrospiralis

• Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne retrospiralis
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 10-24 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

The best features of Cryptocoryne Retrospiralis are its awesome wavy leaf texture and subtle bronzy colors. This tall aquarium plant has a moderate growth rate so it does not require frequent trimming and maintenance.

11. Alternanthera Rosanervig

• Scientific Name: Alternanthera reineckii
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Size: 4-12 inches
• Lighting: Moderate – high light
• pH: 6.5 – 7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate – fast
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Alternanthera Rosanervig, or just AR, is one of the most colorful and vibrant background plants for freshwater aquariums. Its leaves are bright pink below and greenish above with pink veins and even its stems burst with color. For the best display, AR needs bright light and stable injected CO2.

12. Hornwort

• Scientific Name: Ceratophyllum demersum
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 6-15 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Growth Rate: Moderate – fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Hornwort is an easy, fast-growing plant that does not grow roots. It can make an effective background plant in tanks without substrate if you attach it to something like a rock or a plant weight.

Worth knowing: hornwort is incredibly flexible. it works just as well floating at the surface as it does in the background. If you want to explore that option, check out my floating aquarium plants guide. One honest note: hornwort sheds needles constantly, which can clog your filter intake if you’re not on top of maintenance. Great plant, just keep an eye on your filter.

13. Guppy Grass

• Scientific Name: Najas indica
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 4-12 inches
• Lighting: Low-moderate
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: No

Guppy grass is another extremely easy plant to grow. This hardy plant can be grown as a stem plant by securing it in the substrate or you can simply leave it to float in the aquarium. It is a very fast-growing plant under good conditions.

14. African Water Fern

• Scientific Name: Bolbitis heudelotii
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 6 – 16 inches
• Lighting: Low
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Slow
• CO2 Requirement: No

The African water fern is an excellent choice for the background of tanks without substrate. It is an epiphyte which means it should not be planted but rather attached to hardscape features like rocks or driftwood.

15. Water Sprite

• Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: 6 – 15 inches
• Lighting: Moderate
• pH: 6-7.5
• Growth Rate: Fast
• CO2 Requirement: Yes, recommended

Water sprite is a tall, fast-growing stem plant that is great for beginners. This beautiful green plant is very easy to care for and can grow pretty tall, so it is best for the background of medium to large aquariums.

Water sprite is one of those flexible plants that works in both roles. rooted in the background or floating freely at the surface. I cover it in depth in my floating aquarium plants guide as well. Either way, it’s a fast grower that’s excellent for nutrient control and keeping algae in check.

16. Lucky Bamboo

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• Scientific Name: Dracaena sanderiana
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: Up to 39 inches
• Lighting: Low
• pH: 6.0 – 7.5
• Growth Rate: Slow to Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Optional

Lucky bamboo is a lesser known background plant but has been made more popular by recent tiktok videos. These plants can make a great background section in your aquarium for your fish to swim in and out of. They are hardy and easy to care for. Just make sure that you keep the leaves above water.

My take: think of lucky bamboo as an accent plant rather than a primary background plant. It works well in certain setups. especially if you’re going for a natural or Asian-inspired aesthetic. but it’s not something I’d build an aquascape around. A fun, low-maintenance addition; just let it play a supporting role.

Tank Setup

Creating a beautiful planted tank can be simple if you start out in the right way. Here’s what you’ll need:

Lighting

All background aquarium plants need light to grow, but some plants need more light than others. As a general rule, plants develop the best colors and a denser growth form under bright lighting.

Most of the plants in this article will grow well under moderate lighting conditions and it is better to provide medium light if you do not have injected CO2. Whichever light strength you choose, make sure you use a full spectrum light that is specifically designed for growing aquarium plants.

Substrate

The substrate is the layer of gravel or sand at the bottom of a fish tank. This layer can do two things for your plants. Firstly, the substrate provides an anchor point where your plants can attach themselves and grow from. The substrate also provides nutrients to the root zone of aquatic plants.

There are two basic categories of aquarium substrates:

Inert Substrates

Inert substrates do not provide your plants with nutrients. They provide your plant with a place to root and grow from, and they also create a more natural look in your aquarium. A gravel substrate is a great example of this type of growing medium.

Active Substrates

This type of growing medium is a nutrient-rich substrate that ensures healthy plant root growth. Use this type of substrate in heavily planted aquariums with loads of root-feeding plants. Not all aquarium plants need to take nutrients from the substrate, however, so avoid this type of soil if you are only growing column-feeding stem plants, epiphytes, or floating plants.

CO2 Injection

The next plant requirement you need to consider is carbon dioxide (CO2). This gas is what plants breathe in. Carbon dioxide occurs all around us, and it is naturally dissolved in our aquariums at low levels.

These natural levels are enough to sustain many aquarium plants, but if you want to see the best results, you’re going to want to increase the concentration. Many amazing aquarium plants just won’t grow well without injecting carbon dioxide into your aquarium. So how do you increase your CO2 levels?

Pressurized carbon dioxide systems are available as kits, which is probably the easiest route to go. These awesome systems are designed to allow you complete control over the amount of CO2 you dissolve into the water.

If CO2 sounds intimidating, here’s the good news: many of the best plants on this list don’t need it at all. Amazon Sword, Water Wisteria, Crypts, Vallisneria, Hornwort, Guppy Grass, Water Sprite, and Lucky Bamboo all grow well without CO2 injection. The plants that benefit most are faster-growing stem plants and especially red plants like Ludwigia and Rotala. My advice: start with the no-CO2 plants, build confidence, and add a CO2 system later if you want to push things further.

Filtration & Water Quality

All aquariums need quality filtration, including planted tanks. This essential piece of aquarium hardware filters out visible particles and also plays a vital role in regulating your tank water chemistry.

Aquarium filters come in all shapes and sizes, and many types will work well in a planted aquarium with background plants. I recommend canister filters for planted display tanks because they hold a lot of filtration media and can be housed outside of your tank, so you won’t see too much unnatural equipment when gazing at your beautiful plants and fish.

How To Grow Them In Your Tank

Read this section to learn the basics of growing and caring for live plants in the background of your aquarium.

Planting & Spacing

Planting background plants in your fish tank is very easy. Most background plants must be grown submerged, which means you’ll need to have your tank set up with your substrate in place and at least partially filled with water before you plant them out.

Stem plants are usually sold in bunches. You’ll need to separate the stems before planting them into the substrate individually. These plants will look a little thin when spread out in a row across the background of your tank, but they are usually very easy to propagate, so with a little patience, you can fill up the background in a few months. A more natural-looking option is to buy a few bundles of stem plants and plant them in bunches.

Rosette plants like Amazon swords and crypts are usually sold individually in pots. These plants grow more slowly, so it is best to buy as many as you need. They should not be moved around after being planted in the substrate, so take the time to plan your layout carefully.

Fertilization

Plants need access to nutrients to stay healthy and grow. Some plants will thrive without any added fertilizer because they get enough nutrients from fish waste, but if you plan on growing healthy background plants in a beautiful planted tank, regular dosing with a quality aquarium fertilizer is usually the way to go.

Different plants access nutrients in different ways. Root feeding plants, like Amazon sword, get most of their nutrients from the substrate. An active aquarium soil will provide them with most of what they need to grow. These plants can also be grown in inert substrates but will need to be fed with root tabs to sustain their growth in the long run.

Many stem plants like hornwort access nutrients that are dissolved in the water column and do not need a nutrient-rich substrate. These plants are known as column feeders and they will require regular doses of liquid fertilizer to grow their best.

Trimming

Most stem plants are fast growing under good conditions and will need regular pruning and trimming to stay neat and tidy. A good-quality pair of stainless aquascaping scissors will make this job much easier and more fun.

You’ll need to collect all the little bits of plant that you have cut and remove them from your tank before they begin to rot (video source). The best way to do this is to use a small aquarium net with fine mesh, but you can also siphon them out with a hose or your gravel vacuum.

Tank Maintenance

Growing live aquarium plants can have amazing benefits for water quality, but with poor maintenance, the opposite can also be true.

Melting plants and trimmings left to spoil in your water can even create toxic conditions for your fish. It’s important to remove all your plant trimming and any melting/dying growth as soon as possible.

As with any aquarium, a regular maintenance schedule will keep your tank healthy and looking beautiful in the long run. Use your aquarium test kit to keep an eye on your parameters.

Regular partial water changes will reset the nutrient levels in your tank and keep your water safe for your fish and plants.

Pests & Other Problems

Most of the popular freshwater fish can be kept in planted tanks without any problems, but some species are notorious for destroying live aquarium plants. These are some of the fish that you should avoid:

• Goldfish
• Silver dollars
• Buenos Aires Tetras
• African cichlids

Algae growth is the most common problem in planted tanks. Solving algae outbreaks can be tough, but you’ll almost always be able to succeed by making a few changes to the following:

• Tank maintenance schedule
• Lighting
• Carbon dioxide levels
• Fertilizer use
• Plant numbers
• Water temperatures

Where To Buy Them

Many of the background plants in this article can be found at your local fish store. Another great way to buy your plants is to order them online from trusted experts in the field. Where it is rare to find tissue culture plants when it comes to backgrounds plants, if you can find them buy them as they are pest free.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Aquarists have long known that live plants can be used to create a beautiful and healthy aquarium. Deciding which plants to grow can be tough, but the 15 species highlighted in this guide are all amazing options. If you haven’t started growing live plants in your fish tank, why not start today?

Do you grow live plants in the background of your fish tank? Tell us about your favorite plants in the comments below!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

An aquarium carpet is one of the most stunning things you can create in this hobby. but it’s also one of the most misunderstood. After years working with planted tanks, I want to give you an honest picture of what it actually takes to grow a carpet, which plants are achievable for your setup, and where beginners go wrong.

My personal go-to carpet plant is Monte Carlo. it’s what I reach for when I want a reliable, beautiful result. But not every plant on this list has the same requirements, and that CO2 question needs a straight answer before you buy anything. Let’s get into it.

What Are Carpeting Plants?

Have you ever seen an aquascaped aquarium that has a floor covered in dense green foliage? The plants used to create this effect are known as carpeting plants, and there are many species available in the aquarium trade.

The best plants for this are low-growing and spread laterally to cover the floor. Most aquarium plants are grown rooted in the substrate, but epiphytes and mosses can be grown to cover hardscape features and in other creative ways.

These carpet plants are used in a number of different aquascape styles including various nature-style and biotope setups. Carpet plants are also very important in Iwagumi and other minimalist aquascapes.

The Benefits

A carpet of plants looks great, but these plants offer a number of other great benefits to your aquarium too. These include:

• Nitrate assimilation- Plants use harmful nitrogen compounds like nitrates and ammonia to grow, effectively removing them from your aquarium by turning them into healthy green growth.
• Oxygenation- Plants release oxygen molecules in the water which live animals like fish need to survive.
• Habitat creation- Carpet plants create the ideal environment for small animals like shrimp to hide and also create the perfect spawning grounds where fish eggs can be deposited.

11 Best Aquarium Carpet Plants

Now that you have a better idea of what a carpeting plant is, it’s time to learn more about the 11 best aquarium plant plant species for beautiful planted tanks.

For each type, I’ll be listing the following information to make your choice easier:

• Scientific Name
• Common Name
• Origin
• Skill Level
• Lighting
• Temperature Range
• Flow Rate
• CO2 Requirement

If you are a visual learner, check out our YouTube video above. We publish new videos every week. We go over more details in the blog post below. So let’s get started!

1. Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’

• Scientific Name: Micranthemum tweediei
• Common Name: Monte Carlo
• Origin: Argentina
• Skill Level: Easy-Moderate
• Lighting: Medium
• Temperature Range: 68-77°F
• Flow Rate: Low – Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is one of the best aquarium carpet plants because it stays low and is effective for forming a dense carpet. This all-green aquatic plant has small, rounded leaves that create a soft and lush look in the foreground of the aquarium.

It has a fast growth rate if given enough light and performs best with increased CO2 levels. Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is such a versatile plant that it can even be grown as an epiphyte attached to hardscape features.

Monte Carlo is my personal go-to carpet plant. the one I reach for when I want a reliable, beautiful result. I’ve worked with it directly and it delivers that dense, lush look that makes an aquascape. It grows well under good light with CO2, and it’s versatile enough to attach to hardscape as well. If you’re only going to try one carpet plant, this is the one I’d point you to.

2. Dwarf Hairgrass

• Scientific Name: Eleocharis parvula
• Common Name: Dwarf hairgrass, dwarf spike rush
• Origin: Australia
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Medium
• Temperature Range: 50-85°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Dwarf hairgrass is one of the favorite carpeting plants in the aquascaping hobby because it has amazing color and texture. In fact, a dwarf hairgrass carpet can really look just like a grass lawn!

This aquatic plant spreads by runners, so it can cover the bottom of the tank with horizontal growth. Growing a very dense carpet of dwarf hairgrass will require more intense lighting levels, injected CO2, and a rich substrate.

3. Dwarf Baby Tears (Hemianthus Callitrichoides ‘Cuba’)

• Scientific Name: Hemianthus callitrichoides
• Common Name: Dwarf baby tears
• Origin: Cuba
• Skill Level: Moderate-advanced
• Lighting: Medium-high
• Temperature Range: 68-75°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Dwarf baby tears (or pearl weed) is an amazing aquarium carpet plant for the more experienced aquarist. I say experienced because this aquarium plant requires great water quality, high quality lighting, and most importantly, stable co2 injection levels to thrive.

The reward is an amazing carpet plant with finer texture and smaller leaves than the similar ‘Monte Carlo’. This is the right aquarium carpet plant for nano planted aquariums that need a fine-textured ground cover.

4. Dwarf Sagittaria

• Scientific Name: Sagittaria subulata
• Common Name: Dwarf sagittaria, dwaf sag
• Origin: North & South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium
• Temperature Range: 72-82°F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

Dwarf sagittaria is a great beginners plant that can be grown as a carpet or mid-ground aquarium plant. It has a coarser texture, resembling a broadleaf grass plant. This plant thrives in coastal regions and it is one of the best carpet plants for aquarists who have harder water.

Dwarf sagittaria is easy to propagate and can be grown in a low-tech planted tank. For a dense carpet, however, this swarf sagittaria will perform best with high light and CO2.

5. Java Moss

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia dubyana
• Common Name: Java moss
• Origin: South East Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-medium
• Temperature Range: 60-86°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

Java moss is a favorite in planted tanks because it is just so versatile! It can be used to create a healthy carpet over the substrate, hardscape, and even walls of the aquarium.

The important thing to understand about Java moss is that it does not grow rooted in the substrate. This means it must be attached to the surface by tying it, gluing it, or sandwiching it between aquarium-safe mesh.

Java Moss is a perfectly acceptable beginner carpet. bulletproof, easy to attach, and grows without CO2. But I’ll be honest: it won’t give you that showstopping, high-end carpet look that more experienced hobbyists are after. Think of it as a gateway carpet plant. It’ll get you the feel for how carpeting works, and you can level up from there.

6. Christmas Moss

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
• Common Name: Christmas moss, Xmas moss
• Origin: South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low-medium
• Temperature Range: 72-82°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

This aquarium plant makes a fantastic carpet over hardscape features like driftwood and lava stone, but it can also be grown over a fiber mat and positioned anywhere in the aquarium. Like Java moss, this species is adaptable to low lighting and can be grown in a low tech tank.

Christmas Moss is my recommendation if you want a beautiful carpet effect without a CO2 system. I’ve worked with it and love the flexibility of being able to attach it to rocks, driftwood, or any hardscape. you get a lot of creative options. It’s much more forgiving than the high-tech carpet options and a great choice for low-tech planted tanks.

7. Elatine hydropiper

• Scientific Name: Elatine hydropiper
• Common Name: Eight-stamen Waterwort
• Origin: Widespread in Europe & Asia
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Moderate-high
• Temperature Range: 39-79°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Elatine hydropiper is still a relatively rare carpeting plant for planted aquariums. This species has tiny leaves and this makes it a great choice for nano aquariums!

Like most carpeting plants, Elatine hydropiper requires good light and stable CO2 levels to stay low and healthy. Many growers choose to begin this aquatic carpet plant with a dry start to allow good root development.

8. Four Leaf Clover

• Scientific Name: Marsilea hirsuta & Marsilea quadrifolia
• Common Name: Dwarf four-leaf clover, four-leaf clover
• Origin: Australia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium-high
• Temperature Range: 68-84°F
• Flow Rate: low-moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

The Marsilea species are great foreground carpeting plants when grown under medium to high light. You probably know the four leaf clover as a good luck charm, but this aquatic plant makes a really great aquarium carpet too! These plants are actually tiny ferns and they can be grown in medium light, although more light will be preferred.

9. Micro Sword (Liaeopsis Brasiliensis)

• Scientific Name: Liaeopsis brasiliensis
• Common Name: Micro Sword, Micro sword grass
• Origin: South America
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Medium-high
• Temperature Range: 70-83°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

The micro sword is a great foreground plant that loves nutrient-rich growing conditions. This grass-like plant has a medium blade width, somewhere between that of the dwarf hair grass and dwarf sagittaria. Micro sword can stay compact and form a great carpet if grown under high light and planted close together.

10. Glossostigma (Glossostigma Elatinoides)

• Scientific Name: Glossostigma elatinoides
• Common Name: Glosso
• Origin: New Zealand
• Skill Level: Moderate-advanced
• Lighting: Medium-high
• Temperature Range: 40-86°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Yes

Glossostigma, or glosso for short, is a beautiful carpeting species that is best for more experienced aquascapers. Glosso might not be the easiest aquarium carpet plant to grow, but it is a hardy species with a very wide temperature tolerance.

Its light green leaves can form a thick carpet if given high light and access to good carbon dioxide levels. Under these conditions, glasso will grow fast and takes very well to trimming.

11. Anubias Nana Petite

• Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana
• Common Name: Anubias Nana Petite
• Origin: West Africa
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low
• Temperature Range: 72-82°F
• Flow Rate: low-moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No, recommended

The last aquarium plant in this list is not a traditional carpeting species, but it can make a wonderful aquarium carpet plant for small areas. Anubias Nana Petite is a slow-growing species, so you will need plenty of patience if you plan on propagating it from just a few plants.

On the plus side, this hardy plant will thrive in a low tech tank. It can be used to form a carpet over hardscape features, and because of its slow growth rate, it requires very little maintenance.

One of the few plants on this list that genuinely doesn’t need CO2. Anubias Nana Petite grows slowly, so once it’s established you won’t be trimming it constantly. but patience is required getting there. Best used for smaller carpeted areas or accent patches rather than trying to fill an entire tank floor.

How To Grow

Anyone can grow a beautiful carpet of aquatic plants with the right knowledge and equipment. Read this section to learn everything you need to know to get started!

Planting

Being smart about how you position your carpeting plants can save you both time and money. Plants like dwarf hairgrass that grow rooted in the soil should be separated into small sections and planted in a grid pattern. In time, the plants will spread to cover up the area if growing conditions are good.

You can plant each section using your fingers, but a long pair of stainless aquarium tweezers can make the task much easier and more precise.

Epiphytes like the mosses and anubias do not grow rooted in the substrate and will need to be attached to your hardscape. There are many ways to do this, including gluing the plants down or simply attaching them with fine thread or fishing line.

The Dry Start Method

The dry start method (DSM) is a fast and reliable way of starting a carpeted aquascape. This method works by placing the substrate and hardscape into an empty tank and moistening the soil only. The plants are placed in their positions and allowed to grow emersed until they have established strong and healthy root systems.

Placing a clear layer of saran wrap/cling film over the top of the tank will lock in the moisture and create the high humidity levels the plants experience in their natural habitat. Your lighting needs to be in place and you can set the timer for 12 hours a day or even more because algae will not be a problem. There will be enough CO2 in the air while the plants are growing emersed to promote fast growth.

This is the approach I recommend for anyone serious about growing a carpet. The Dry Start Method gives your plants time to establish a strong root system before you flood the tank, which dramatically reduces the chance of the carpet floating loose or dying out in patches. If you’re committed to growing a carpet, start dry. don’t skip this step.

Unfortunately, there are some downsides to the dry start method that must be considered:

• This method is only possible for starting a new planted tank
• The tank will still need to be cycled when it is filled before you can add any fish
• You can expect some melting as the plants transition from emersed to submerged growth

Only plants that can be grown emersed should be started with this method. Here are some ideal species that you can use:

• Java moss
• Dwarf hairgrass
• Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’
• Dwarf baby tears

Not all plant species are suitable for the dry start method. The following types of plants should be avoided:

• Floating plants
• Stem plants

Check out the video above from my buddy Aaron. He highlights dry start and the planting methodl.

Substrate

Knowing how to plant your carpeting plants is an important first step, but where you plant them is just as crucial. Most species will need a nutrient-rich environment in which to anchor themselves and absorb the nutrients they need. Some potential carpeting plants like anubias and Christmas moss do not need any substrate at all.

There are many excellent substrate products on the market today that can be reliably used to grow incredible carpets. Some aquarists prepare their own ‘dirt’ mediums, but I would recommend starting out with a quality premade substrate like ADA Aqua Soil or Tropica. Aquarium soils are designed to include the nutrients plants need while providing the ideal structure for rooting and water flow.

Filtration

Filtration is just as important for your plants as it is for fish. Decaying plant material is a major cause of elevated ammonia levels.

The beneficial bacteria involved in biological filtration are essential for breaking this down into nitrates which is a less harmful compound. Fortunately, plants use nitrates as a source of nutrients, so live plants can work hand in hand to maintain great water quality!

Of course, filters also trap physical waste particles, taking them out of suspension and making a cleaner, better-looking aquarium. Water flow is a factor that should not be overlooked when maintaining a planted aquarium. Plants need good water flow to access carbon dioxide and nutrients in the water column.

There are many different types of filters available on the market, but I suggest buying the best quality unit you can afford. An external filter is the best option because it is able to house large amounts of filtration media with plenty of surface area for bacterial colonization.

Internal filters can be used for smaller nano aquariums, but the downside is that they tend to take up a large amount of space inside the tank.

Lighting

You’re going to need a good light source to maintain a healthy carpet of live plants. Different plants have different light requirements, but all species need light to grow.

As a general rule, plants grow shorter, denser, and more compact under intense lighting levels. In low light, plants will stretch themselves up to get closer to the light source above them, and that’s no good when growing a carpet!

Lighting technology has come a long way, and the modern aquarist can choose between excellent LED and fluorescent lighting designed specifically to maximize plant growth. The strength and spectrum of the light produced do vary between products, so choose a model that suits your goals. The height of the aquarium also needs to be considered because light intensity diminishes quickly with depth.

Of course, timing is important too. Your lighting should be set on a timer to start up and switch off automatically. Six to eight hours per day is the ideal photoperiod, and going longer than that can cause some algae issues.

Carbon Dioxide

All plants need carbon dioxide (CO2) in order to live and grow. CO2 is all around us and occurs naturally in your aquarium. Unfortunately, the levels are not high enough to promote the kind of dense, lush grow aquarists seek.

A lack of CO2 can result in a low growth rate, smaller leaves, and vertical rather than spreading growth. Many carpeting plants will survive in low CO2 environments, but will not grow low and dense, but rather tall and thin.

To maintain the perfect CO2 concentrations in your planted aquarium, you will need to set up a pressurized system. These systems are great for maintaining CO2 levels within a safe range and creating optimum plant growth in the aquarium.

A typical CO2 system (like the one linked above) will include:

• Pressurized CO2 canister
• CO2 regulator
• Diffuser
• Bubble counter
• Drop checker

An injection system like this should be run on a timer that starts it up an hour or two before the lights go on and then shuts it down when the lights go out. Using this equipment allows you to maintain stable, ideal concentrations of CO2 while the lights are on, the time when the plants need it the most.

Maintaining

Getting your plants to grow and thrive is the first goal, but maintaining that growth rate and keeping them looking at their best is just as important in the long run.

Regular aquarium maintenance is very important, so don’t forget to perform regular partial water changes and bring out your water test kit to test your parameters. Read on for more useful information on caring for carpeting plants.

Fertilizer

Aquarium carpet plants do not only gather the nutrients they need from the soil. These plants also need nutrients in the water column for the most rapid growth.

Root feeding plants gain the majority of the nutrients they need from the soil around their roots and they will thrive in a rich aquarium soil. Aquarium soils do become leached in time, but this doesn’t mean you have to uproot everything and start over!

Root tabs are small, slow-release fertilizer capsules that can be inserted into the soil around the roots of your plant. They are a long-lasting solution that delivers the nutrients directly to the root zone.

Aquarium carpet plants will also benefit from liquid plant food dosing. I recommend a product like APT Complete that contains both the macro and micro-nutrients that plants need.

Trimming

Trimming and shaping your aquarium carpet plants is very important to keep your aquascape looking its best. Whether you’re looking for a low, tight covering of plants, or a progression towards larger plants that creates depth, you’re going to need to stay on top of trimming.

Trimming your plants will also encourage lateral growth and the development of a healthy root system. A curved pair of aquascaping scissors make this job a breeze. Straight scissors have a place too, especially when it comes to creating neat edges.

Before we move on, here’s a very important trimming tip! Remember to net out all your plant trimmings when you’re done. This will prevent them from spoiling in the tank and affecting your water quality.

Algae and Pest Management

Not all things that grow in aquariums are welcome! Algae growth is probably the biggest challenge that you will face when maintaining any planted aquarium.

This can be a very temporary problem that resolves itself as your plants become established and begin to outcompete the algae for nutrients. There are also ways to use nature to fight algae for you.

Some fish and invertebrates feed specifically on algae, and these aquatic friends will be more than happy to do their bit! The following species make great clean-up crew members:

• Otoncinclus catfish
• Nerite snails
• Amano shrimps

Check out this complete guide for more detailed information on aquarium algae.

Common aquarium pests like snails often hitch a ride into aquariums on live plants. To avoid this, I definitely suggest growing tissue culture plants. Plants in a tissue culture cup have been grown under sterile lab conditions, so sterilizing and quarantining aren’t essential.

Where To Buy

Growing live aquatic plants has become increasingly popular, and more and more fishkeeping stores have begun stocking a range of live plants. I prefer to grow tissue cultured plants because it prevents any unwanted pests from being introduced. These aren’t always easy to find, but trusted online retailers stock great product ranges at great prices!

FAQS

Final Thoughts

If you ask me, there’s nothing better than a heavily planted tank with a beautiful green carpet. You can use the species and tips in this article to grow your own amazing aquarium carpet. Happy growing!

Do you love growing aquarium plants? Let us know about your favorite species in the comments below!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

I’ve kept Mbunas in planted tanks and the results surprised me. Most people assume African cichlids and live plants can’t coexist, but with the right species it absolutely works. The key is choosing plants tough enough to survive the digging, uprooting, and occasional nibbling that cichlids are known for. In this guide, I cover the 7 plant species I’d trust in a cichlid tank. rooted in real experience, not just theory.

The 7 Best Plants For Cichlid Tank

Many cichlid tank setups are barebones with a plain substrate and intricate rockwork. These tanks cater to the natural behavior of cichlids, aggressively establishing and defending a territory space within the tank. Having plenty of hiding spots throughout the aquarium helps to diminish aggression while also offering breeding pairs safe spots to spawn. Still, a plain tank can look pretty boring even though African, Central American, and South American cichlids are some of the most colorful fish in the aquarium hobby.

However, these plain setups are pretty similar to the natural habitats that you might find near Lake Tanganyika or Lake Malawi cichlids. These lakes have basic, hard water that doesn’t support many plants, with even fewer of those species being commercially available in the hobby. As we’ll see, this largely applies to African cichlid tanks. On the other hand, some Central and South Americans originate from very biodiverse waterways, leaving many options open for a planted aquarium.

I used to be skeptical about African cichlid planted tanks until George Farmer. one of the most respected aquascapers in the hobby. showed me what was possible with the right plant selection. It genuinely opened my eyes. With tough, rhizome-based species like Anubias, Java fern, and Vallisneria, a planted Mbuna tank is achievable and stunning when done right.

Generally, these are some of the best plant species available for cichlid tanks.

The biggest mistake I see is choosing the wrong plants. soft, delicate species that cichlids tear apart within days. The second mistake is impatience: plants in cichlid tanks grow slower because lighting is usually lower and CO2 isn’t typically used. Cichlids will also detach rhizome plants from surfaces regularly. Set your expectations and focus on the tough species at the top of this list.

1. Anubias

• Scientific Name: Anubias spp.
• Size: 6-18 inches
• Tank Placement: On surfaces
• Lighting: Low
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Anubias are very hardy plants that grow in nearly any water condition. They can be acclimated to more basic or acidic water pH levels, making them a possible addition to either American or African cichlid tanks. Anubias also prefer lower aquarium lighting, which makes them accessible to hobbyists with low-tech setups. It’s important to keep Anubias under low lighting and in some water flow as these plants cannot tolerate algae growing on their leaves.

In addition to tolerating different water parameters, Anubias grows on driftwood, rock, and other surfaces. They are not planted in the substrate, which is beneficial since many cichlids love digging through sand and dirt. These plants have thick leaves that also make it hard for cichlids to nip at. Even if you have a troublesome picker, it is unlikely that the plant will be totally eaten.

Anubias is my #1 pick for any cichlid tank. including Mbunas. I’ve grown it attached to rocks in my African cichlid setups and even my most aggressive fish leave it alone. The thick, rubbery leaves are simply unpleasant to eat, and because Anubias attaches to surfaces rather than planting in substrate, cichlids can’t uproot it no matter how much they dig. It’s the most cichlid-proof plant I’ve found.

There are many species of Anubias to choose from, with some being hardier and more attainable than others. There are also dwarf species and others that grow to have moderately large leaves, though they are all generally slow growers.

Some of the most popular species of Anubias are:

• Anubias nana
• Anubias barteri
• Anubias heterophylla
• Anubias congensis

2. Java Fern

• Scientific Name: Leptochilus pteropus/Microsorum pteropus
• Size: <12 inches
• Tank Placement: On surfaces
• Lighting: Low to moderate
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Java fern is similar to Anubias in terms of hardiness but offers much more height and placement possibilities. These plants can vary in size, especially when it comes to leaf width. There are tall and skinny varieties like Java Fern Narrow and Java Fern Needle Leaf, or larger-leaf ones like Java Fern Broad Leaf.

For the most part, all types of Java Fern can be kept in any planted tank. These plants are so resilient that hobbyists even keep them in brackish conditions. They are also difficult and unpleasant to eat, so many fish avoid them. That being said, Java fern can thrive under low to moderate lighting and even high lighting if given time to acclimate. Their rhizomes cannot be planted in the substrate and they need to attach to rocks, driftwood, or other decorations.

Java fern is a slow grower but becomes bushy over time. This, in addition to the many different types available, makes them a great addition to cichlid planted tanks.

3. Bolbitis

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• Scientific Name: Bolbitis spp.
• Size: <24 inches
• Tank Placement: Midground or background in areas of high water flow
• Lighting: Low to moderate
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Another great plant option for Central, South American, and African cichlids are members of the Bolbitis genus. These are interesting-looking plants that can come in a lacy or broad leaf appearance. One lacy type is Bolbitis difformis while a straighter one is Bolbitis heteroclita.

These are slow-growing ferns that can reach impressive sizes. Because of this, Bolbitis are used as either midground or foreground coverage. They don’t need a ton of light but do best when placed in high water flow.

Like Anubias and Java fern, Bolbitis grows from a rhizome that can be attached to surfaces throughout the aquarium, which is necessary when keeping them with cichlids. They have tough, unpleasant leaves that nearly all fish avoid eating.

Bolbitis is underrated in the cichlid plant conversation. It’s not as commonly sold as Anubias or Java fern, but if you can find it, it’s one of the tougher options on this list and adds a really distinct look to a cichlid tank.

4. Cryptocoryne

• Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne spp.
• Size: <12 inches on average
• Tank Placement: Midground or background
• Lighting: Low to moderate
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Cryptocoryne species are some of the most popular plants available for freshwater aquariums. These plants come in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and are pretty forgiving of varying water parameters. That being said, not every Cryptocoryne species is the right fit for a cichlid tank. Some of the preferred species include:

• Cryptocoryne wendtii
• Cryptocoryne usteriana

Unlike the other species on this list, these plants need to be planted in the substrate. They get their nutrients mainly from their root system, so substrate fertilizers are recommended. Crypts are relatively slow-growing and much more palatable than the plants previously listed, so it’s important to keep your cichlids well-fed. Creating other sources of enrichment, like through live food, can also help distract other fish from digging up and nibbling on leaves.

5. Crinum

• Scientific Name: Crinum calamistratum/Crinum thaianum
• Size: <24 inches
• Tank Placement: Any
• Lighting: Moderate to high
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Crinum calamistratum and Crinum thaianum are uncommon to find at your local fish or pet store, though they continue to grow in popularity. These plants are mostly found growing on land, but a few make perfect additions to the cichlid planted tank (picture source: File:Crinum Calamistratum kz02.jpg – Wikimedia Commons. 13 Dec. 2019, commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Crinum_calamistratum_kz02.jpg).

Crinum is a bulb that should be partially buried in the substrate. They need moderate to high lighting and should have some water flow to keep algae from growing on their leaves. Both of these species are root feeders and will need a nutrient-rich substrate.

Otherwise, Crinum species are very hardy and will withstand being uprooted or eaten by a hungry cichlid. Make sure to feed your fish plenty of other food for a better chance of your plant’s survival. In especially favorable conditions, Crinum may produce a white flower.

It should be noted that Crinum species prefer hard water conditions, like those found with African cichlids. However, they can be kept in near-neutral conditions if a Central or South American setup allows.

6. Vallisneria

• Scientific Name: Vallisneria spp.
• Size: <36 inches
• Tank Placement: Midground or background
• Lighting: Low to high
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

If you’re looking to create an African cichlid biotope, then some species of Vallisneria might be on your list. These are some of the few species of aquatic plant found in Lake Tanganyika that are readily available in the aquarium hobby. Don’t worry though. These are very hardy plants that can be kept with most other cichlids as well.

There are many species of Vallisneria available with some staying under 10 inches and others growing out of the tank. Some of the popular types include:

• Vallisneria americana
• Vallisneria gigantea
• Vallisneria spiralis

Vallisneria are fast-growing with tough leaves that fish struggle to eat. However, new shoots might be susceptible to nibbling.

7. Amazon Sword

• Scientific Name: Echinodorus spp.
• Size: <24 inches
• Tank Placement: Background
• Lighting: Moderate
• Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

Amazon swords are very fast-growing, bright green plants that can outgrow and withstand your cichlid’s behaviors. These plants do need to be planted in the substrate, so you might have trouble initially getting them established if your fish keep ripping them up. However, they can be kept in nearly all aquarium conditions as long as they are given moderate lighting.

There are several types of Amazon sword, like Echinodorus bleheri, Echinodorus grandifolius, Echinodorus xinguensis, and Echinodorus horizontalis. Some of these species may be better equipped for withstanding lower water pH’s in Central and South American cichlid planted tanks.

There is a chance that cichlids will eat Amazon swords, but adding more plants and keeping fish fed can help deter picking.

Species That Work Best

Now that we know some of the possible plants that can be kept with cichlids, we can look more into which cichlids do best with which plants.

Here are some of the most common cichlids that you might be considering adding to a planted tank.

1. Apistogrammas

Apistogrammas are a South American cichlid that are commonly kept in blackwater community tank setups with a sand substrate. These fish are very easy to pair with plants and can be kept with all the species mentioned on this list. They will also appreciate floating plants.

2. Ram Cichlids

Another South American cichlid, rams are commonly kept in planted community tanks. However, these fish prefer higher-than-normal water temperatures compared to other fish, which can be stressful to some of the more sensitive species of plant. For the most part, Java fern, Anubias, crypts, Bolbitis, and Vallisneria will work in these warmer setups.

It should also be noted that ram cichlids love to burrow through the substrate, so root-feeder species might be torn up.

3. Angelfish

Angelfish are undeniably the most common cichlid to see in the average hobbyist’s aquarium. These fish thrive in slow-moving, heavily planted conditions. They are unlikely to nip at plants and like to take shelter in dense vegetation. However, some of the plants on this list, like Anubias and Crinum, require water flow to prevent algae from growing on their leaves.

Plants from these genera can still be kept with angels, but some algae control will be needed. This can be done through mechanical maintenance, using nerite snails, or other fish to gently eat algae off the surface of the leaves.

Julidochromis ornatus

Julidochromis are a common African cichlid from Lake Tanganyika. This lake has hard, basic water, and plants need to be able to acclimate to those conditions. Because of this, Java fern and Anubias are popular options, along with endemic species of Vallisneria.

4. Discus

Discus are some of the most challenging fish to keep in the aquarium hobby due to their need for pristine water quality. Luckily, plants help maintain water parameters and can help reduce the maintenance needed to keep these South American cichlids. Unfortunately, discus also prefer higher-than-normal water temperatures, which needs to be considered when picking out different plants.

Like ram cichlids, some of the best warm water plant species include Java fern, Anubias, crypts, Bolbitis, and Vallisneria.

5. Geophagus altifrons

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Geophagus altifrons are fun South American cichlids that look stunning in a planted aquarium. These fish can successfully be kept with all the plant species on this list, though it is possible they will dig up any planted ones.

Some Geophagus are kept in very low acidic water parameters, so some consideration may be needed. However, many plants can adapt.

6. Neolamprologus leleupi

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A small Lake Tanganyika cichlid, Neolamprologous leleupi is similar to Julidochromis ornatus. These fish especially love to hide in and around caves, though they might interact with surrounding plants from time to time.

Like Julidochromis, Neolamprogous will pair well with Java fern, Anubias, and Vallisneria.

Why They Struggle

You may have heard the term ‘melting’. This is the word usually used to describe a newly added plant that suddenly dies. The plant often turns yellow or white and loses its leaves until the base of the stem rots (though the plant should be removed much before this!). There is a chance that the plant will come back and survive from this point, especially if you can propagate healthy pieces.

There are a few reasons plants might melt or die when added to a new aquarium.

• The water is hard and basic. Many aquarium plants prefer neutral water conditions around 7.0 pH. Unfortunately, Lake Malawi and Tanganyika have much higher pH and hardnesses (usually buffered by crushed coral or limestone), which many plants can’t withstand.
• The fish in the aquarium are destructive. Almost any type of African, Central, or South American cichlid has the capability of being destructive by digging up rooted plants. This can prevent the plant from becoming established and growing.
• The water temperature is too high. Many South American cichlids originate from warmer-than-average water temperatures above 80° F. Most aquarium plants have been acclimated to the 70° F range.

Conclusion

Cichlids are often kept only with each other, but that doesn’t mean you can’t add some biodiversity through plants. While the species of plant that can be kept is limited due to preferred cichlid water parameters and behavior, there are still a few that can quickly fill an aquarium. Some of these options include Anubias, Java fern, and Cryptocoryne.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

Vallisneria is my favorite tall aquarium plant. I’ve used it more than any other background plant over the years. There’s something about a dense wall of flowing green that just looks right in a freshwater tank, and tall plants deliver that better than anything else. In this guide I’ll share my top picks, what I’ve actually planted and grown, and a few things beginners consistently get wrong before they’ve learned the hard way.

15 Tall Aquarium Plants

Are you ready to learn about 15 awesome tall aquarium plants? Each of these hand-picked choices can grow to over a foot tall under the right conditions (video source from our Channel), just make sure to compare their light and care requirements to make the best choice for your tank.

1. Amazon Sword

• Scientific name: Echinodorus sp.
• Family: Alismataceae
• Origin: Brazil
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/ aquarium soil
• CO2 requirement: No

Amazon Sword is a beautiful rosette plant that grows rooted in the substrate. This tall, large-leaved plant is a popular choice for the background of medium-sized tanks, although it can be used in the mid-ground of larger aquariums.

Amazon swords are great for beginners because they grow at a fast but manageable rate and do not need high lighting conditions or carbon dioxide. Choose these sword plants for a dense, tropical look in your freshwater aquarium.

2. Water Wisteria

• Scientific name: Hygrophila difformis
• Family: Acanthaceae
• Origin: Asia
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Low/moderate
• Substrate requirement: Recommended
• Fertilizer type: Liquid
• CO2 requirement: No

Water wisteria is a fast-growing plant that can be rooted in the substrate or allowed to float in the water column. Its leaves have great texture and interesting roots grow from the nodes to collect nutrients from the water column. This bright green plant makes a great background plant if planted in groups at the back of the tank.

3. Vallisneria Spiralis

• Scientific name: Vallisneria spiralis
• Common names: Straight vallisneria, tape grass
• Family: Hydrocharitaceae
• Origin: Europe, Africa, and Asia
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/ aquarium soil
• CO2 requirement: Recommended

Straight Vallisneria is an excellent background plant for medium-sized aquariums since it grows to about 2 feet tall. This plant will not grow up out of the water in shallow tanks but rather bend over to grow along the surface, creating a very attractive effect.

Vallisneria grows rooted in the substrate and should be grown in a fertile substrate to do its best. It grows fast and does require some maintenance since it spreads across the bottom by runners.

4. Vallisneria Americana

• Scientific name: Vallisneria americana
• Common names: Jungle val, wild celery, tape grass
• Family: Hydrocharitaceae
• Origin: Asia, Australia, South and North America
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Light: Moderate
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/ aquarium soil
• CO2 requirement: Recommended

Vallisneria americana is a tall aquarium plant that grows to about three feet in a nutrient rich substrate. Its bright green leaves may be straight or twisted but are strap-like and extend upwards toward the water’s surface.

Jungle val is an excellent choice for the background of a large aquarium and can even survive in slightly brackish water.

🌿 Mark’s Pick: Vallisneria and Water Sprite
Vals are my personal favorite tall background plant. I’ve used them more than anything else. They spread naturally through runners, they’re nearly indestructible, and once they’re established you’ll have a dense green wall that looks great and gives fish real cover. Water Sprite is my other go-to: it grows fast, works as both a background stem plant or a floater, and is one of the best natural nitrate consumers you can add. If you’re just getting into planted tanks, start with one of these two.

5. Cryptocoryne Balansae

• Scientific name: Cryptocoryne crispatula
• Family: Araceae
• Origin: Thailand
• Difficulty: Easy/intermediate
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/aquarium soil and liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: Recommended

Cryptocoryne balansae is an easy aquarium plant for the background of freshwater aquariums. It can reach a height of nearly two feet and has long, narrow leaves with an attractive wavy texture.

This cryptocoryne shows optimum growth under high lighting and does well in good water flow. It is native to areas with naturally hard water parameters but does well in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline conditions. Like other crypts, these plants need stable water conditions to avoid suffering ‘crypt melt’.

6. Cabomba

• Scientific name: Cabomba aquatica
• Common names: Fanwort, giant cabomba
• Family: Cabombaceae
• Origin: South America
• Difficulty: Moderate
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: Recommended

Giant cabomba is a beautiful, fine-textured stem plant with a striking pale green color. It is a hardy plant that can quickly grow to over two feet, although it does best with CO2, regular feeding, and gentle water flow. These are great background plants for larger aquariums with moderate to intense lighting.

7. Elodea (Anacharis)

• Scientific name: Egeria densa
• Common names: Brazilian waterweed
• Common names: Anacharis
• Family: Hydrocharitaceae
• Origin: South America
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Low/moderate
• Substrate requirement: No
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Elodea is a very easy tall aquarium plant that is perfect for beginner aquarists. This species has a moderate to fast growth rate and can be grown in both cold water and tropical aquariums. This deep green stem plant looks best when planted in clumps at the back of the aquarium.

8. Hornwort

• Scientific name: Ceratophyllum demersum
• Common names: Hornwort, coontail
• Family: Ceratophyllaceae
• Origin: South America
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate
• Substrate requirement: No
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Hornwort is a hardy, fast-growing stem plant that can reach nearly three feet tall under optimal growth conditions. It can grow floating, anchored with weights, or rooted in the substrate and it is excellent for soaking up excess nutrients in the water and outcompeting nuisance algae.

Hornwort is tolerant to both cold and tropical water environments and its fine leaf structure makes a great environment for shy fish and breeding projects.

9. Red Tiger Lotus

• Scientific name: Nymphaea zenkeri
• Common names: Egyptian lotus, Egyptian water lily
• Family: Nymphaeaceae
• Origin: Africa
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs, aquarium soil, or liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

The red tiger lotus is an interesting species that grows from a bulb rooted in the substrate. This beautiful plant has red leaves that grow both in the water and up at the surface.

These surface floating leaves will produce flowers, but many aquarists prefer to trim off the surface growth of the tiger lotus so it doesn’t block out light to the other plants below.

10. Ambulia

• Scientific name: Limnophila sessiliflora
• Common names: Asian Marshweed, Ambulis
• Family: Plantaginaceae
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Low-moderate
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Ambulia is a fast-growing stem plant that reaches a height of about 16 inches (40 cm). It has beautiful, fine-textured leaves but tends to look pretty thin unless planted in bunches.

Fortunately, these beginner friendly background plants are very easy to propagate from cuttings, so you can do a lot with just a few bundles if you have some patience.

11. Bacopa Monnieri

• Scientific name: Bacopa monnieri
• Common names: Moneywort, water hyssop
• Family: Plantaginaceae
• Origin: Australia, Asia, Africa, South and North America
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/ aquarium soil and liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Bacopa monnieri is a bright green, upright aquatic plant with succulent stems. These tall aquarium plants are a great choice for the midground of large aquariums or the background of medium-sized tanks.

Bacopa monnieri can be grown in inert substrates like sand but they do prefer a nutrient-rich substrate and will happily grow above the water’s surface and even produce small white and pink flowers under the right conditions.

12. Ludwigia Natans Super Red

• Scientific name: Ludwigia palustris
• Common names: Super red ludwigia, water purslane
• Family: Onagraceae
• Origin: Worldwide
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Aquarium soil and Liquid fertilizer (preferably high iron for red coloration)
• CO2 requirement: No

Ludwigia Natans ‘Super Red’ is one of the few tall aquarium plants with bright red foliage. This attractive species has a fast growth rate and is ideal for beginner aquarists, although it will not develop its best colors in low aquarium light conditions or if provided with low nutrition.

Grow this plant in a decent aquarium soil and dose regularly with an iron rich fertilizer to encourage that bright red look.

13. Ludwigia Arcuata

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• Scientific name: Ludwigia arcuata
• Common names: Needle leaf ludwigia
• Family: Onagraceae
• Origin: North America
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Root tabs/ aquarium soil and liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

The needleleaf ludwigia grows to about 20 inches tall, making it a good choice for the background of a medium or tall aquarium. The fine foliage of this popular aquarium plant creates great texture in a planted tank and they provide a great hiding spot for smaller fish and shrimp.

These plants develop beautiful reddish foliage under high lighting, but they may turn green under dimmer conditions. An iron supplement is also helpful to encourage red foliage.

14. Java Fern

• Scientific name: Microsorum/leptochilus pteropus
• Common names: Java Fern
• Family: Polypodiaceae
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Low light
• Substrate requirement: No
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Unlike the other tall aquarium plants in this list, the ever-popular Java Fern does not grow floating or send roots into the substrate. These epiphytes are found growing on wet rocks and wood in nature, so the best way to grow them in the aquarium is by tying or gluing them to a piece of driftwood or your rockwork.

Java ferns are slow-growing, undemanding aquarium plants that can grow to about 12 inches tall. They are ideal for the midground of small to medium-sized planted tanks.

15. Eusteralis Stellata

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• Scientific name: Eusteralis/Pogostemon Stellata
• Common names: Water star
• Family: Lamiaceae
• Origin: Australia and Asia
• Difficulty: Easy
• Light: Moderate/high
• Substrate requirement: Yes
• Fertilizer type: Liquid fertilizer
• CO2 requirement: No

Eusteralis stellata is a tall aquarium plant that is highly sought after for its beautiful foliage. This plant is easy to grow and reaches a height of about 20 inches, making it an ideal background plant.

This plant species grows narrow, strap-like leaves, with various colors from green to reddish. However, you will need adequate iron levels and bright light to bring out its best colors.

Other Species

We usually limit our lists so our posts don’t get too long. Here are other plants that we didn’t cover that you can learn more about below.

• Anubias barteri
• Brazilian pennywort
• Bacopa caroliniana

16. Lucky Bamboo

• Scientific Name: Dracaena sanderiana
• Skill Level: Easy
• Size: Up to 39 inches
• Lighting: Low
• pH: 6.0 – 7.5
• Growth Rate: Slow to Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Optional

When considering the best tall aquarium plants to purchase, don’t overlook the understated charm of lucky bamboo. Recently gaining traction from TikTok showcases, this plant provides an impressive vertical element to your aquatic setup, inviting your fish to meander through its towering stalks.

Its robust nature and undemanding care needs make it a favored choice, particularly for its ability to prosper in ambient light alone. Ideal for aquarists seeking a low-light-compatible yet tall plant, lucky bamboo simply requires its leaves to remain above the waterline to thrive.

Planted Tank Benefits

Are you still wondering whether live plants are a good idea for your tank? Check out these pros and cons before you make the final decision.

Pros

• Tall plants create more depth in your aquascape and can be used to cover the background of your tank or hide equipment like heaters, filters, and cables
• Live plants add oxygen to the water, creating a healthier environment for your fish and other aquatic pets
• Tall aquarium plants create a great hiding place for shy fish and shrimp
• Fast-growing stem plants like water sprite, ambulia, and hornwort are excellent for soaking up excess nutrients in the water and outcompeting nasty algae.

Cons

• Live plants need decent lighting and adequate nutrient levels to thrive
• Omnivorous and herbivorous fish like goldfish and silver dollars will eat and damage live plants
• Fast growing species may need regular trimming, and plants like vallisneria that spread by runners can cover the bottom of your tank if you don’t keep them in check

Growing Them

Tall aquarium plants tend to be very easy to grow. However, each species has its own preferred growing conditions. Let’s take a quick look at the basics of aquarium plant care to get you started in the right way.

⚠️ Three Mistakes I See With Tall Aquarium Plants: First, people underestimate how large they get. vallisneria can hit 3+ feet and take over a small tank. Match the plant to your tank size. Second, most tall plants. especially stem plants. are heavy feeders and will stall or melt without regular fertilization. Don’t skip ferts and expect them to thrive on fish waste alone. Third, substrate matters more than most guides admit. Root-feeding plants like swords and vals need a nutrient-rich substrate or root tabs to perform at their best.

Substrate

Depending on their species, aquarium plants can either float in the water, attach themselves to rocks and driftwood, or grow roots down into the substrate.

Most popular aquarium substrates like gravel and sand are inert, which means they do not contain or release any nutrients. Fast growing stem plants will happily soak up the nutrients they need from the water column, but root-feeding species like Amazon sword and vallisneria will need access to nutrients at their root zones.

You can grow these plants in a nutrient-rich aquarium soil or simply insert root fertilizer tablets around their root zone in a sand substrate.

Lighting

Plants need sunlight to grow in nature, but exposing a fish tank to direct sunlight can cause algae problems if you don’t have enough healthy plant growth. The solution is to grow your plants under artificial lights that are designed for planted tanks. Here are some tips on choosing the right lighting:

• Light intensity decreases with depth, so deep aquariums need stronger lighting than shallow tanks
• Fluorescent and LED lighting are the best choices for aquariums because they do not create excessive heat and they are relatively energy-efficient
• Choose a lighting system with a spectrum/temperature of about 5000 – 7000K for a natural looking color and healthy plant growth
• Your aquarium lights must run on a timer to simulate a natural night/day cycle. about 8 hours per day is recommended.

For an easy go to, I recommend Current USA’s Serene RGB lights. For more complex and advanced setups, others will turn to T5s, but that is outside of the scope of this post. I prefer to stick to easier to care for plants for ease of success.

Feeding

Plants need nutrients to live and grow. Depending on their species, they may get the nutrients they need from the water, the substrate, or a combination of both.

Plants will use the nutrients from excess fish food and fish waste and some tanks may not need much fertilizer at all. However, you will see the best results and growth rate by providing a balanced liquid fertilizer, provided your water parameters and lighting are suitable too.

APT Complete is the best fertilizer product I’ve had the pleasure of using for planted aquariums. It’s created by an expert aquascaper for serious aquascapers. The all in one formula should cover everything you need for all plants on this list.

CO2 Injection

All plants require carbon dioxide for healthy growth, and fortunately, there are ways to increase the CO2 levels in your tank to safe, natural levels. Almost all plants will benefit from running a pressurized CO2 system in your planted tank, although each of the 15 species discussed in this article can be grown in low-tech aquariums.

If you are serious about aquascaping, I would consider a CO2 system. My favorite CO2 system to recommend comes from CO2Art. I’ve been a promoter for their products for several years now. You can get a discount code from me in the offer code in the box below.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

There’s something really special about a planted tank with a wall of tall aquarium plants in the background, a bunch of smaller plants in the mid-ground and foreground, and some beautiful tropical fish enjoying their vibrant home. Why not plant one or more of the awesome species mentioned in this guide in your own tank?

Do you have a planted aquarium? Share your favorite tall aquarium plants in the comments!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

Aquarium moss is one of the most underrated plant categories in the hobby. and after 25 years I still think most people treat them like throwaway plants when they’re capable of looking stunning with the right conditions. Christmas Moss is my personal favorite. With good lighting, CO2, and some patience, you can create aquascapes that genuinely stop people in their tracks. Here’s a rundown of the 15 best options and what you need to know to get them thriving.

What Are They?

Aquarium mosses (Java moss, etc.) and liverworts (Pellia, etc.) are non-vascular plants technically known as bryophytes. These delicate plants attach themselves to tree trunks, rocks, driftwood, and riverbanks using anchoring structures known as rhizoids.

Unlike regular plants, aquarium mosses don’t grow flowers, fruits, and seeds but reproduce with spores instead. They also get their nutrients from the water around them instead of using roots.

Benefits

Aquarium moss has many handy benefits for your tank. Let’s take a quick look at some of the reasons you may want to grow these interesting plants.

• Aesthetics

Aquarium mosses can turn an average aquascape into something truly special. From a dark green carpet to what looks like miniature fir tree branches, aquarium moss plants can be used in loads of interesting ways to create an amazing underwater world.

• Water Quality

Like other live aquarium plants, aquatic mosses oxygenate the water while soaking up excess nutrients like nitrates that cause poor water quality. That makes them great for the overall health of your fish and other aquatic pets.

• Breeding

Aquatic Moss is one of the best plants for fish and shrimp breeders because its dense growth creates the perfect spawning site for egg scatterers. Their eggs can remain safely hidden from hungry mouths and the fish fry and baby shrimp can also hang out and feed amongst the foliage.

Keep reading for some basic information about aquarium moss care.

15 Types Of Aquarium Moss

Now that you know the basics of Aquarium moss care, let’s dive right in and learn about 15 awesome species that you can grow!

I supplied a video from our official YouTube Channel so you can get a visual for all these mosses. Our blog goes into further detail so follow along with both to get the full details. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

1. Java

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia dubyana
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Care Level: Beginner
• pH: 6 – 8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 70 – 75 °F

Java Moss is the perfect species to start with because it is the most popular moss in the aquarium hobby and the easiest to find. This versatile plant is great for aquascaping, breeding projects, or just to provide a great environment for shrimp and small fish to explore.

You can grow this moss attached to your hardscape, as a carpet plant, or even as a living wall on the side or back of your aquarium. This plant has a moderate growth rate and develops long shoots lined with tiny leaves. It survives under a wide temperature range and in either low or bright light.

2. Christmas

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
• Origin: South East Asia and Australia
• Care Level: Beginner
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 72 – 82 °F

Christmas moss is another excellent aquatic species that can be used in a number of aquascaping styles. This attractive bright green plant is perfect for planted aquariums with dwarf shrimp and shy fish that can hide and feed within its foliage.

This species gets its name from its Christmas tree-shaped leaves. It has a neat, compact growth form when grown with sufficient light.

Christmas Moss is my personal favorite from this list. That distinctive Christmas tree growth pattern makes it one of the most visually striking mosses you can keep, and it does especially well attached to driftwood or rocks with good lighting and CO2.

3. Spiky

• Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum sp.
• Origin: Asia
• Care Level: Beginner
• pH: 5.5-8
• Light: Low
• Temperature: 68-82 °F

Spiky moss has an upright growth form which is excellent for adding depth to your aquascape. This fast-growing species has branched shoots similar to Christmas moss but tends to grow larger, reaching a length of about 4 inches. Grow this undemanding moss attached to your hardscape or even emersed in a paludarium.

4. Peacock

• Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Peacock moss’
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 65-77 °F

Peacock moss is a soft and delicate moss from the Taxiphyllum genus. This beautiful and undemanding aquarium plant has Christmas tree-like leaves.

5. Weeping

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia ferriei
• Origin: Eastern Asia
• Care Level: Beginner
• pH: 6 – 8
• Light: Low-high
• Temperature: 59-86 °F

The weeping moss (Vesicularia ferriei) is a slow-growing East Asian species with a beautiful drooping form like a weeping willow tree. You are most likely to achieve this interesting form in your tank when grown under sufficient lighting, although this species can survive in low light. Attach this low-growing species to driftwood with thread or super glue for the best results.

6. Flame

• Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Flame moss’
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 54-86 °F

Flame moss is a unique species that grows spiraled, upright stems that resemble flames. This slow-growing aquatic species can be grown both emersed and submerged and makes the ideal plant for a nano aquarium with shrimp or small fish.

Flame moss is a hardy species that reaches a height of 3 to 4 inches if left untrimmed. This decorative plant is suitable for beginners, although it will do best in stable water parameters and gentle water flow conditions.

7. Phoenix

• Scientific Name: Fissidens fontanus
• Origin: North America
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Medium
• Temperature: 64 -77°F

Phoenix moss is a North American moss with loads of uses in the aquarium. This aquarium moss has a delicate feathered appearance that adds amazing texture to any aquascape!

You can secure this moss to your hardscape with gel super glue or fishing line or you can weigh it down and let it attach itself to your substrate. It will also spread itself around in your tank naturally although it stays low and needs little maintenance.

8. Pearl

• Scientific Name: Plagiomnium affine
• Origin: Europe
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 5-8
• Light: Low
• Temperature: 50-86 °F

Pearl moss is an attractive aquatic plant that grows long fine stems with small round leaves. This very slow-growing European moss species is ideal for low-light conditions.

Pearl moss is a pretty rare species thats good for the aquarist who enjoys the challenge of growing a variety of different aquatic plant species. Its easy to propagate but will not spread as well as vigorous species like Java moss.

9. Round Pellia

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• Scientific Name: Monosolenium tenerum
• Origin: East Asia
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low to medium
• Temperature: 64 – 79 °F

Monoselenium tenerum is an attractive Asian plant from the liverwort family with a deep green colour. It does well in low light conditions and can be grown as a free-floating plant or tied/glued to wood and other objects in planted aquariums.

This plant should not be confused with Subwassertang, a similar looking fern which is also known as round pellia.

10. Mini Pellia

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• Scientific Name: Riccardia chamedryfolia
• Origin: Asia
• Care Level: Beginner/intermediate
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 64-82 °F

Mini pellia is often called coral moss, although it is actually a liverwort rather than a true moss. This delicate, deep-green species grows low stems that create interesting effects on driftwood and other hardscape features in a planted tank.

Mini pellia can grow and spread quickly once it is established in an aquarium and will look its best if given medium light and carbon dioxide. However, its not a good moss choice for warm water temperature ranges above 82°F

11. Mini Club Moss

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• Scientific Name: Selaginella Kraussiana
• Origin: Africa
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: N/A
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: Tropical

Mini clubmoss is a handy species for vivariums and paludariums because it requires high humidity but does not grow submerged in the water. This compact plant reaches a height of just two inches and has beautiful fern-like foliage.

Mini-club moss requires deep, moist soil to root and grow. Try this interesting plant for the land section of your paludarium or vivarium setup!

12. Fissidens Nobilis

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• Scientific Name: Fissidens nobilis
• Origin: Asia
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Medium
• Temperature: 64-79 °F

Fissidens nobilis is a dark green moss that develops a strong attachment with its rhizoids. This Asian species is a great choice for the bottom of your tank or for the driftwood and other hardscape features in your aquascape.

Fissidens nobilis has a very slow growth rate and looks pretty similar to the phoenix moss (Fissidens fontanus) although it grows larger and more upright feathery fronds.

13. Ruby Red Club Moss

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• Scientific Name: Selaginella erythropus
• Origin: South America
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: N/A
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: Tropical

The ruby red club moss is another interesting option for vivarium and terrariums. The lower surfaces of this terrestrial moss’s leaves are a beautiful ruby-red color that contrast with the dark green uppersides. Club mosses thrive in moist well-drained soil but they should not be grown submerged under the water in an aquarium.

14. Crystalwort

• Scientific Name: Riccia fluitans
• Origin: Cosmopolitan
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: 6-8
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: 68-81 °F

Popularized by aquascaping legend Takashi Amano, crystalwort is an interesting aquatic species that can be grown as a floating plant or attached to driftwood or stainless steel mesh. Riccia fluitans is not a true moss, although it has a similar appearance and growth form in the aquarium (video source).

This plant grows fast and develops an attractive branching pattern of narrow bright green leaves. It does not need CO2 or intense lighting if grown as a floating plant, although it will do better in a high-tech setup if grown attached to rocks or driftwood at the bottom of your tank.

15. Willdenow’s Spikemoss

• Scientific Name: Selaginella willdenowii
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Care Level: Easy
• pH: N/A
• Light: Low-medium
• Temperature: Tropical

Willdenow’s spikemoss is a large terrestrial species that makes an interesting choice for a terrarium or vivarium setup (video source). This attractive plant grows rooted in the soil and requires fairly shady and moist growing conditions. Unfortunately, this species will not survive if grown underwater.

Other Popular Species

• Nano moss – Amblystegium serpens
• Taiwan moss – Taxiphyllum alternans
• Marimo moss ball
• Stringy moss – Leptodictyum riparium

Basic Care

There is no specific combination of techniques and parameters that are perfect for every species, but these general guidelines are a good starting point for most aquatic mosses.

The biggest mistake I see with aquarium moss is treating it like a throwaway plant. These plants can look absolutely incredible in the right conditions. proper lighting, CO2 supplementation, and good water flow can transform a basic moss clump into something that looks professionally aquascaped. Don’t give up on them too quickly.

• Lighting

Most mosses can thrive under a variety of lighting and they are one of the few good options for low-light tanks. Some species even survive under ambient light conditions in well lit rooms, although they should never be exposed to direct sunlight.

• Temperature

Aquatic mosses are highly adaptable plants that can grow in a wide range of temperatures. However, most aquarists get the best results in heated aquariums with stable water temperatures in the low to mid-70s Fahrenheit. Algae and melting can become a problem at higher temperatures.

Different species prefer different temperatures so choose a moss that will fit in with the other species in your tank. For example, Willow moss prefers cold water below 68 degrees Fahrenheit, while Java moss can survive in the lower 80s Fahrenheit.

• Feeding

Aquarium mosses do not gather nutrients from the substrate like regular rooted plants. Instead, they get the nutrients they need from the water column and from waste and detritus particles that settle among their foliage.

Regular dosing with a liquid fertilizer is recommended for healthy growth, but avoid overdoing it as this could result in poor water quality and algae blooms.

• CO2

Aquarium moss needs carbon dioxide, just like other plants, and they will benefit from increased levels. However, pressurized CO2 is not necessary unless you are using strong lighting.

• Water Flow

Moderate to strong water flow will help prevent too much waste settling within your moss, and increase aeration and nutrient flow to all parts of the plant. However, moss are delicate plants that can be damaged or break loose in very strong water flow, especially when they are still developing healthy rhizoids.

Attachment

Keeping aquarium moss fixed in place can seem impossible until you learn a few simple tricks. It’s important to understand that these plants do not grow regular roots into the soil, so most species must be attached to the hardscape (rocks, driftwood, decorations ) or simply left to float in the water column.

I’m going to share this wondering walkthrough video by Daniel Keepfish Fish that shows how he attaches moss to driftwood and other structures. It’s a must watch!

You can tie or attach moss to rocks and driftwood with gel super glue, thread or fishing line. Separate and attach the plant in very thin sections, as thick clumps tend to rot from the inside. You can also sandwich moss between stainless steel or plastic mesh and use it as a carpet or even a living wall. Some examples of driftwood would include:

• Spider wood
• Manzanita
• Tiger wood

We’ll cover the process of growing an amazing wall a little later in this guide, so keep reading to learn about this amazing technique!

Propagation

Mosses are very easy to propagate, so you can grow large amounts from a small piece if you have the patience. The easiest method is to simply divide the plant and attach these divisions to other parts of the hardscape in your tank.

They can also spread themselves around the tank by releasing spores or when small sections break apart, drift around, and anchor themselves.

Maintenance

Depending on the species, you may need to trim your aquarium moss regularly to keep it neat and healthy. Don’t wait for it to grow too long and dense before trimming because the inner areas can die off if they don’t have access to light and water flow.

Trimming moss can get pretty messy as all the tiny offcuts go drifting around in the tank. Be sure to switch off your filter and powerheads during this process to avoid clogging up the inflow and media. You can use a fine mesh net or suction from a hose or gravel vacuum to remove the offcuts as you go.

Uneaten food, fish poop and other waste often settles among moss leaves and stems where it can decay and cause water quality issues. Remove this material with your gravel vacuum or stir it loose by waving your hand just above the plant during water changes.

Tankmates

Aquarium moss is delicate and can be damaged by large boisterous fish like plecos and bottom feeders that like to root around for food buried in foliage and substrate. However, a clean-up crew of nano species like otos, kuhli loaches, or dwarf shrimp is very helpful for keeping your moss clean and healthy.

Bonus – How To Create An Wall

Growing an aquarium moss wall is one of the most interesting and effective ways of using aquarium moss in a planted tank. However, aquarium mosses will not simply attach themselves to glass, so you’ll need to make some preparations to achieve this awesome effect.

Continue reading to learn how to create your own Aquarium moss walls!

• Step 1 – Select your moss species

Weeping moss (Vesicularia ferriei), Flame moss (Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Flame moss’), Christmas moss (Vesicularia montagnei), and many others can be used for your moss wall. Choose a species that appeals to your individual vision for the tank.

• Step 2 – Sterilize your moss

If you don’t have sterile tissue culture moss, you may wish to sterilize the moss before adding it to your tank. This will minimize the chance of snails and other unwanted organisms getting into your aquarium.

A weak bleach dip (1 part bleach: 20 parts water) is recommended. Make sure to rinse your moss thoroughly with dechlorinated water after dipping to remove all excess bleach or peroxide.

• Step 3 – Measure and cut mesh

You will need two panels of fine stainless steel or aquarium-safe plastic mesh cut to the size of your wall. Each panel should be the same size since you will be creating a moss sandwich to hold everything together.

• Step 4 – Pack in your moss

Arrange your moss on one mesh panel, being careful to keep it cool and moist. You don’t need to cover 100% of the mesh, but avoid overfilling as you need good water movement to the moss.

• Step 5 – Secure the other mesh panel

Next, it’s time to close the ‘sandwich.’ Use staples, small zip ties, or a needle and fishing line to hold everything together. Remember to mist your moss regularly during the process to prevent shock.

• Step 6 – Installation

Now it’s time to secure your moss wall to the glass. If you’ve made a wall that is long enough to cover the back and both sides, it might stay in place without any effort.

You can also peg or secure a single panel to the glass along the top rim of the tank and secure it along the bottom with rocks and driftwood. Suction cups work too, but try to get your wall attached as flush to the glass as possible to prevent any fish or shrimp getting trapped.

• Step 7 – Patience

You know what they say, good things come to those who wait! If all goes well, it’s going to take a few months for the moss to grow through the mesh and create a full wall. Keep the water temperature and parameters stable during this period, and enjoy watching your living wall come to life!

For a visual aid of all this, I’ll share this video from ThatShrimpDude that shows him setting up his own Moss Wall. Follow along to see how these steps are implemented visually.

Maintenance

Once your moss wall is well established, you may need to trim it down from time to time to keep it neat. However, this is going to depend on which type of moss you use because some slow-growing species stay short and compact while others may become stringy.

It’s best to use a pair of curved aquascaping scissors for this job- it’s what they’re designed for. Try to remove all the moss trimmings as you cut them, that way they won’t drift around and spoil in your tank. A gravel vacuum is effective for this job, but a small fine mesh net is easier if you’re working alone.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

There’s nothing like the deep greens of healthy aquarium moss to add that extra dimension to a planted aquascape. These interesting plants benefit our freshwater aquariums in so many ways that every aquarist should consider adding some to their tanks. I hope this guide has inspired you to try growing one of the many amazing types of moss available in the aquarium hobby today!

Do you grow moss in your fish tanks? Tell us about your favorite aquarium moss species!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

What It Is Actually Like Growing Flame Moss

The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

Table of Contents

• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins And Habitant
• Creating The Ideal Aquarium Environment For Flame Moss
• Feeding Your Plant (Fertilization)
• Attaching In Your Aquarium
• Propagating Your Plant In Your Aquarium
• Alternatives – Other Aquatic Plants to Consider
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Closing Thoughts
• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong
• Is the Flame Moss Right for You?
• Species Comparison
• The Reality of Growing Flame Moss
• What It Is Actually Like Growing Flame Moss

The Flame Moss is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.

Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

We’ll take you on a journey through flame moss habitat origins, how to create ideal conditions and propagation methods as well as introducing some alternatives options if desired. After reading our comprehensive care sheet about growing & caring for Flame Moss successfully within your tank setup ,you should have everything at hand required when adding these stunning beauties!

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Taxiphyllum Flame (Taxiphyllum sp)
Common Name	Flame Moss
Family	Hypnaceae
Origin	South East Asia
Skill Level	Easy to Moderate
Lighting	Low to Moderate 15-40 PAR (umols)
Tank Placement	Foreground
Water Current	Low, Moderate
Temperature Range	68 – 83° F
Height	2 – 8 Inches
pH Range	6.0 – 7.5
Propagation	Division
Growth Rate	Slow
Feed Type	Column
CO2 Requirement	Recommended

Classification

Division	Bryophyta
Class	Bryopsida
Order	Hypnales
Family	Taxiphyllaceae
Genus	Taxiphyllum
Species	T. sp. “Flame”

Origins And Habitant

Flame moss is an interesting aquatic plant found in moist and warm South and Southeast Asia climates, often dwelling in the calm river water there. It adds a unique visual to freshwater tanks as it grows upwards, unlike other types of moss, which expand horizontally. Its dark green coloring gives off even more appeal when properly cared for with sufficient lighting. With just minimal upkeep required due to its slow rate growth potential. up to 8 inches naturally but only three typically within aquariums. this species is a great way to add texture and color to aquascapes.

Appearance

The flame moss plant is an interesting sight to behold, with thick shoots twirling in a vertical motion that creates the look of a burning flame. This type of green-dark colored moss will reach up to 8 inches when cared for properly, thus making proper care essential. It has an upright growth habit that gives off a captivating visual effect and makes it great eye candy for aquariums!

People are drawn towards how fascinatingly unique its appearance is. No other type of foliage looks quite like Flame Mosses do. Allowing them plenty space as they grow brings out their beauty even more – providing aquarists an enjoyable experience while admiring these spectacular plants’ magnificent form.

Placement And Lighting Needs

Flame moss is a plant that grows best in low light and cooler water temperatures with slower circulation. For optimal growth conditions LED lights are ideal as they provide the spectrum and intensity needed while not burdening you with excess electricity costs. Because this variety has such a slow growth rate, you won’t have to worry too much about pruning as you would with stem plants. Avoid any intense lighting systems meant for professional aquascapes and keep flow moderate to slow to keep them from getting torn apart.

Good Tank Mates

Crystal Red Shrimp on Plant” class=”wp-image-551257″/>

Flame moss is an easy-care freshwater plant perfect for a wide variety of small fish and shrimp, which will gain shelter as well as access to nutrients from it. Some suitable tank mates include:

• Guppies
• Tetras
• Bettas
• Rasboras
• Shrimps
• Snails

All peaceful species can do well in properly maintained aquariums. By giving flame moss the right conditions alongside its chosen companions, you’ll be able to establish a rewarding aquatic environment with everyone benefiting equally!

Species To Avoid

For ease of care, flame moss is an ideal choice for aquariums. Be mindful when introducing this species to your tank, as overly aggressive fish may uproot or harm the plant’s delicate structure, as well as fish that have an appetite for plant matter. Watch out for these fish:

• Large aggressive cichlids
• Buenos Aires Tetra
• Silver Dollars
• Goldfish

Creating The Ideal Aquarium Environment For Flame Moss

When it comes to flame moss care, the size of your tank, water parameters, and substrate selection are all key factors. This plant type is quite versatile because it can live comfortably in small nano tanks or bigger aquariums.

To ensure successful growth, replicating its natural habitat by controlling water temperature and pH levels alongside adequate flow rate should be kept at optimal conditions for best results. Substrates like sand, gravel, or aqua soil can also give you some leeway when it comes to setting up an attractive aquatic display while still being able to maintain necessary habitats for your fire moss, no matter what format you choose, though sustaining ideal living standards will increase chances of success significantly.

Tank Size And Setup

In order for your flame moss to grow optimally and stay healthy, it’s important that you provide the right lighting and water flow in your tank setup. Flame moss can grow in as small as a tank as 5 gallons and is housed in large aquascapes. The main thing is getting your parameters right and your lighting on point.

We are looking at a low or moderate light for lighting. This is supplied with just about any standard planted tank led system. Limit your light exposure to 8 hours at most to prevent excessive algae growth.

Water Parameters

Creating a stable environment for flame moss with the ideal water parameters is crucial to ensure its health and growth. This includes maintaining temperatures between 68-83°F (20-28°C) as well as pH levels of 6.0 – 7.5. In order to keep your aquarium in optimal condition, it is important to be aware of any fluctuations related to ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite concentrations. Ammonia and Nitrites should be kept at 0PPM, while nitrates should be kept no higher than 40PPM. This will not only keep your fish and inverts healthy but also keep algae growth from getting excessive.

To keep parameters ideal, this require regular water changes. Closely monitor your parameters with a proper aquarium test kit and perform water changes to balance back to these parameter ranges if anything is off.

Substrate And Decor

In order to grow flame moss in a tank, it must be properly secured with either cotton thread or mesh sheets. This will prevent the plant from moving away and allow its growth, making it an attractive feature within your aquarium. Flame moss are column feeders with a root system allowing them to be placed anywhere in the aquarium. To attach flame moss securely, you can use items such as driftwood or rocks alongside other decorations in combination with the mentioned materials (like cotton thread) so that everything remains in place.

Feeding Your Plant (Fertilization)

Providing the right nutrients and maintaining a pristine environment can help ensure your flame moss’s healthy growth in your aquascape. Be mindful to not over-fertilize since too much fertilizer could increase algae or other health problems for both your aquarium moss itself and any occupants it shares space with. Everything needs to be balanced (CO2, Fertilizers, light, parameters, etc)

Fertilizers

Flame moss is a column feeder. To feed this plant, consider an all in one liquid fertilizer such as APT Complete. APT Complete is designed for serious aquascapers and is one of the best fertilizers on the market. It contains both micro and macro nutrients need to get plants to thrive.

Regarding the feeding schedule. This is going to depend on a few factors. The amount of CO2 injection and lighting will push up the need for fertilizers if the plant is trying to grow faster. In low tech environments, you can dose less, such as once a week.

CO2 Supplementation

For your flame moss to flourish, you can consider CO2 supplementation. This will lead to an enhanced color and increased plant growth rate. You could introduce this into your tank through a diffuser, reactor or injection system if desired. To keep tabs on correct levels for optimal plant development, a drop checker. Drop checkers will indicate when your CO2 levels are not at the ideal range of 30PPM. Note that Drop checkers have a delay to them. You can consider a test kit if you want an on the spot test without having to wait for your CO2 checker to read.

You can also seek a midgrade solution such as Seachem Flourish Excel. This is liquid CO2 that is dosed in the tank to enhance growth.

Attaching In Your Aquarium

Successful establishment of flame moss in your freshwater aquarium can give a fascinating look to the environment. Secure attachment methods such as cotton thread or fishing line are recommended to ensure it is fixed firmly and grows as desired. You could creatively plan its arrangement to enhance visual beauty by using various ideas like carpeting with flame moss, attaching it to driftwood or rocks, etc., thereby showcasing this exotic species’ appeal at its best. Let’s explore several techniques useful for stabilizing and arranging Flame Moss in two sections below – Anchoring & Planting Ideas!

Anchoring Techniques

To affix flame moss to decorations like driftwood in your tank, a good idea is to use either cotton thread or fishing string. These items is knotted around the plant material for support, providing it with a safe hold that will keep it from shifting about as time passes and allowing its growth for visual appeal within the aquarium’s environment (video source). Alternatively, you could make loops with these materials if desired. No matter which option you go with, by using this method of anchoring Mosses securely, you’re certain they won’t be moving to any place undesired!

Planting Ideas

Incorporating flame moss into an aquarium setup provides endless possibilities for creative and stylish planting designs. This type of moss is attached to driftwood or rocks, used with mesh netting to craft a wall or carpet, or formed into a “moss tree” using the same material. To ensure that your aquatic landscape is healthy and vibrant, it’s important to provide good lighting and adequate CO2 supplementation. One such idea is to place the moss on the branches of bonsai driftwood to create a tree-like look.

Propagating Your Plant In Your Aquarium

Flame moss propagation is a great skill to learn to spread your moss all over your aquarium quickly. This enhances the look of your aquarium and makes maintenance more manageable. To propagate this beautiful aquatic plant successfully in your tank, learning how to divide it correctly and replanting tips are key components for achieving success with its propagation techniques.

In order to create an eye-catching display featuring this captivating moss species in its full beauty – here are two methods you’ll need to master: firstly division, then replantation.

Division Technique

The division method is an easy way to propagate flame moss in your fish tank. Utilizing a pair of scissors, carefully cut up mature flame moss into smaller pieces and try not to harm the plant. This gives you multiple new plants that provide both aesthetic value and help with water quality for your aquarium. Dividing this kind of moss enables speedy growth so it is incorporated into any environment efficiently.

Replanting Tips

When propagating the pieces of flame moss, plant flame moss on driftwood or rocks and be sure to anchor them securely on decorations with cotton thread or fishing string. Monitor this new growth carefully As it establishes itself and maintains its health for a captivating aquatic display. To ensure that your replanting is successful, adhere to these instructions. You’ll soon have lush green foliage bursting from all around!

Alternatives – Other Aquatic Plants to Consider

If you’re seeking alternatives to flame moss, there are many aquatic plants that can give your aquarium a lush green environment while reducing nitrates and serving as natural food for fish. Options include other aquarium mosses like:

• Willow Moss
• Spiky Moss
• Christmas Moss
• Java Moss

These offer similar advantages both in terms of aesthetic appeal and practicality.

When selecting these other aquatic plants rather than flame moss it is important to ensure they receive the same level of care: proper lighting conditions should be ensured, fertilization applied when necessary, and water parameters closely monitored. Doing this will create an attractive landscape showcasing the beauty available from various aquatic plant species.

Where To Buy

Flame moss is purchased locally at specialty fish stores. However, if you do not have access to a reputable store, consider purchasing them online. They are available in tissue culture, which makes them pest and disease free as these are grow in labs. You purchase them from our suggested online provider below.

Is the Flame Moss Right for You?

Before you add a Flame Moss to your tank, here is an honest assessment of what you’re signing up for. I’d rather you know exactly what to expect now than find out the hard way after you’ve already bought one.

• Experience level: Flame Mosss are best for keepers with at least some experience maintaining stable water parameters.
• Tank size commitment: You’ll need at least 5 gallons, though bigger is always better. Make sure you have room for the tank before buying.
• Tank mate planning: Flame Mosss can be territorial, so plan your community carefully. Not every fish will work as a tank mate.
• Maintenance routine: Weekly water changes and regular filter maintenance are the baseline. Consistency matters more than perfection.
• Cost to keep: Flame Mosss are reasonably affordable. Standard equipment and quality food cover most needs.
• Time investment: Beyond daily feeding and weekly maintenance, regular observation is the best way to catch health issues early.
• Long-term commitment: These are living animals that depend entirely on you. Make sure you’re ready for the ongoing responsibility.

Frequently Asked Questions

How the Flame Moss Compares to Similar Species

If you’re considering a Flame Moss, you’ve probably also looked at the Java Moss. Both fill similar roles, but the differences matter when planning your tank. The Flame Moss has its own distinct personality and care needs. In my experience, the choice often comes down to the specific community you’re building and whether your water parameters favor one over the other.

The Christmas Moss is worth considering as well. While the Flame Moss and the Christmas Moss share some overlap in care, they bring different energy to a tank. If you have the space, keeping both in separate setups gives you a great chance to compare their behavior firsthand.

Closing Thoughts

Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

This thorough guide has the knowledge and resources to help you grow vibrant flame moss in your aquarium. From its origins, required environment, planting methods, anchoring techniques, as well as other aquatic mates that may be suitable for it – everything is covered here so that you can craft an eye catching display.

Flame moss offers beauty and great shelter to their tank mates. With good care under ideal conditions provided by this guide’s instructions, you could create a stunning oasis within your aquarium!

Live plants transformed the way I keep freshwater tanks. Beyond the aesthetics, they compete with algae for nutrients, provide natural cover that reduces fish stress, and in a mature planted setup you can actually reduce water change frequency because the plants are doing real biological work. My approach is either CO2-injected with active substrate and Chihiros lighting for a proper planted tank, or fully natural using the Walstead method. but I’ve found the half-measures tend to disappoint. This list covers 30 popular species across beginner, intermediate, and advanced levels so you can find what fits your setup.

Placement Categories

Each aquarium plant species grows to a different size and shape, so it’s best to plan ahead before planting them in your tank. While you could grow plants in a random arrangement, it makes a lot more sense to structure your tank with the smallest plants in the front and the tallest in the back.

Aquarium plants can be categorized by where they grow best in a display tank. Let’s take a look at the four most important placement options.

Foreground

Low-growing plants like Anubias nana petite make the best foreground plants because they add a splash of green without growing tall and blocking your view into the tank. Many species, like dwarf hair grass and micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’, can also be used to create a beautiful lawn or ‘carpet’ in the front of your aquarium.

Midground

Mid-ground plants are generally medium-sized plant species that grow rooted in the substrate or attached to driftwood or rocks. Cryptocorynes and Ludwigias are excellent rooted plants for the middle of a planted aquarium. Choose epiphytes like anubias and Java ferns to attach to your hardscape.

Background

Choose tall, upright plants to cover the background of your aquarium and hide hardware like your heater. Fast-growing stem plants like water wisteria are an easy option, but large rosette plants like the Amazon sword or vallisneria which spreads by runners are also excellent choices.

Floating

Floating plants add a whole new dimension of interest to a display tank and also provide an excellent place for your fish to hide and explore.

These plants look the best when grown in a tank without a hood, but remember that many fish will jump right out of an open aquarium. Floating plants also shade the plants below, so be cautious if you have rooted plants with high light requirements.

Feeding Methods

All plants need minerals and nutrients to grow and stay healthy. However, different plants gather these nutrients in different ways, so it’s important to choose the right type of fertilizer to suit your plant species. Let’s take a brief look at the two major plant feeding types.

Column Feeders

Epiphytes, floating plants, and many stem plants gather all the nutrients they need from particles dissolved in the water around them. That’s how these plants can survive in an aquarium without any substrate.

They may gather all the nutrients they need from fish waste and uneaten food, but most will appreciate a regular application of liquid fertilizer.

Root Feeders

Rosette plants and species that can survive for long periods outside of the water gather the nutrients they need from the soil. These plants develop strong root systems and need to be anchored to survive in the long term.

Root-feeding plants should be grown in a nutrient-complete aqua soil or in an inert substrate (i.e. sand/ fine gravel) with added root tabs. These tablets slowly dissolve to release fertilizer directly at the plant’s root zone.

The 4 Types

Carpeting

Carpeting plants are low-growing plants that grow rooted in the substrate. They are planted densely or allowed to spread across the bottom of the tank, typically in the foreground of the aquascape. These plants are generally small species, although some require regular trimming to stay low and neat. Dwarf hair grass and dwarf baby tears are popular examples of aquarium carpet plants.

Epiphytes

Epiphytes are special plants that do not require soil to grow. These plants may develop a strong root system, but they use these roots to anchor themselves to rocks and wood rather than the substrate. Java fern is a typical example of an epiphyte that can be glued, wedged, or tied to a solid object in a freshwater aquarium.

Stem Plants

Stem plants are fast-growing species that grow upwards into the water column or simply float in the water near the surface. These plants have weak root systems and extract the nutrients they need from the water around them. Popular stem plants include water wisteria, hornwort, and anacharis.

Mosses

Mosses are versatile plants that can be left to drift in the water column or attached to driftwood and rocks. It’s also possible to use moss as a carpet plant by sandwiching it between two layers of fine mesh and allowing it to grow outwards.

The fine structure of moss makes it a great place for fish to lay their eggs and for tiny fry and shrimp to hide away from predators.

Low Tech Vs. High Tech

Planted aquariums can be described as high or low-tech, and the difference really comes down to the type of equipment and maintenance that goes into the tank.

High-tech planted tanks use powerful lighting, injected carbon dioxide, and carefully planned fertilization doses and schedules to improve plant growth and create amazing underwater aquascapes.

Low-tech planted aquariums can be as simple as a regular fish tank, with standard lighting and little or no fertilizer. Most of the plants mentioned in this post will grow fine under low-tech conditions, although almost all of them will do even better in a high-tech setup.

Tissue Culture Vs Traditional

Many freshwater aquarium plant types are available for sale as tissue cultures that are grown under sterile laboratory conditions. While more expensive, tissue cultures are the best choice for aquarists concerned about introducing unwanted parasites, disease, or snails and their eggs into the aquarium.

30 Types Of Freshwater Aquarium Plants

Now that we have defined and explained the various classifications and terms for aquatic plants, let’s get into our list. For each of these plants, we will have the following listed for you:

• Scientific Name
• Common Name
• Placement
• Origin
• Skill Level
• Lighting
• Temperature Range
• Flow Rate
• CO2 Requirement

We have a video just for you below from our YouTube Channel. We go over more details in our blog post so please check out both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we have no content uploaded every week!

Let’s jump in!

1. Java Fern

• Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus
• Common Name: Java fern
• Placement: Midground (epiphyte)
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 40 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 64 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Java fern is an excellent plant for just about anyone with an aquarium! This Southeast Asian fern does not require high light, CO2 injection, or even substrate to grow. Its tough leaves are also resistant to damage from nibbling fish.

2. Anubias

• Scientific Name: Anubias spp.
• Common Name: Anubias
• Placement: Foreground/midground (epiphyte)
• Origin: Africa
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low PAR, e.g. < 100 μmols
• Temperature Range: 72 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Optional

Anubias is a group (genus) of low-light aquarium plants from the Araceae family. Like the Java Fern, these slow growers are epiphytes, which means they should be attached to your hardscape with glue or thread.

There are several species available in the hobby, ranging from the tiny nana petite which makes a great foreground plant, to larger species like A. barteri for the midground.

3. Bucephalandra

• Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
• Common Name: Bucephalandra
• Placement: Foreground/midground (epiphyte)
• Origin: Indonesia
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 40 – 100 μmols
• Temperature Range: 71 – 79 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Bucephalandras are slow-growing epiphytes with beautiful colors. There are many species and varieties available, with many different leaf shapes, colors, and sizes. These plants are generally easy to grow and perfect for the midground hardscape of your aquarium.

4. Cryptocoryne

• Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne spp.
• Common Name: Crypts
• Placement: Foreground/ midground
• Origin: South & Southeast Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – high PAR, e.g. 40 – 200 μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Cryptocorynes, or crypts for short, are a large group of rosette plants that are mostly fairly similar in appearance. These plants grow rooted in the substrate and they are very easy to care for. Choose small species like C. parva for an interesting foreground or larger options like C. wendtii for the mid-ground.

5. Amazon Sword

• Scientific Name: Echinodorus bleheri/ grisebachii
• Common Name: Amazon sword
• Placement: Background – midground
• Origin: Central & South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – high PAR, e.g. 40 – 250 μmols
• Temperature Range: 72 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low-moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Amazon sword is an excellent background or midground plant for larger aquariums. This easy-going rosette plant has an upright growth form with large leaves – perfect for that lush tropical look.

These plants grow rooted in the ground, so you will need a fairly deep layer of substrate to develop healthy roots.

6. Java Moss

• Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
• Common Name: Java moss
• Placement: Foreground/hardscape/free floating
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Skill Level: Easy-moderate
• Lighting: Low to high PAR, e.g. 10 – 200 μmols
• Temperature Range: 64 – 79 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Java moss is an easy and versatile species for the planted aquarium. This species will grow unanchored in the aquarium, but most aquarists prefer to attach it to their hardscape. Left to grow wild, this plant creates excellent places for shrimp and fry to shelter, which makes it a great species for breeding projects.

7. Christmas Moss

• Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
• Common Name: Christmas moss, Xmas moss
• Placement: Attached to hardscape
• Origin: Asia & Australia
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 40 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 65 – 77 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Christmas moss is a slower growing and more challenging moss species than Java moss, but with the right care, it can look truly amazing. It is named for its branching structure which makes it look like a miniature Christmas tree.

8. Ludwigia Natans Super Red

• Scientific Name: Ludwigia palustris
• Common Name: Ludwigia natans ‘Super Red’, Water Purslane, Marsh Seedbox
• Placement: Background – midground
• Origin: Widespread
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 65 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Ludwigia natans is a beautiful upright stem plant that can add vibrant red shades to your planted aquarium and it looks amazing when planted in dense grouping to create a fuller look. This is a very easy plant to grow and propagate, provided you can maintain stable water quality. This red plant can turn green under low light and CO2 conditions.

9. Water Wisteria

• Scientific Name: Hygrophila difformis
• Common Name: Water Wisteria
• Placement: Background – midground
• Origin: India, Nepal, Bangladesh, & Bhutan
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 40 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 65 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Water Wisteria is a fast-growing stem plant that can create a bushy green wall at the back of a planted aquarium or be used in a grouping as a feature in the midground of larger tanks.

This interesting plant has rounded leaves with a toothed margin when grown emersed but changes to spiky feathered foliage when grown completely submerged in an aquarium.

10. Ludwigia Repens

• Scientific Name: Ludwigia repens
• Common Name: Creeping primrose-willow
• Placement: Background – midground
• Origin: North America
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 72 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Ludwigia Repens is stem plant that can show various shades from bright green to red or gold. This plant grows quickly and is easy to propagate from cuttings. It looks best when planted in a dense bunch, and is perfect for the background of planted aquariums.

11. Monte Carlo

• Scientific Name: Micranthemum spp.
• Common Name: Monte Carlo
• Placement: Foreground, carpet
• Origin: Argentina
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 77 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo‘ is a small green spreading plant with delicate rounded leaves. It is one of the best carpet plants for the foreground of planted aquariums. This plant is easy to grow, but you will need high lighting and injected carbon dioxide for a dense, low carpet.

12. Dwarf Hairgrass

• Scientific Name: Eleocharis parvula
• Common Name: Dwarf hairgrass, dwarf spikerush
• Placement: Midground, foreground, carpet plant
• Origin: Widespread
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Low – high PAR, e.g. 75 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 50 – 85 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Dwarf Hairgrass is one of the best carpet plants for planted aquariums because it can look just like a real lawn. It will grow at its best with decent light and CO2 injection, but this is a carpet plant that can also be used in low-tech setups. This plant will grow in moderate water flow, but it will need a few weeks of low flow to establish a healthy root system.

13. Floating Fern

• Scientific Name: Salvinia natans
• Common Name: Floating fern, floating watermoss
• Placement: Floating plant
• Origin: Africa, Europe, & Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – high PAR, e.g. 75 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

The floating fern is an interesting floating plant with bright green, wavy leaves covered in hairs. It is an excellent plant for open-top display aquariums or fish tanks with shy species like African killifish.

Be aware that this fast-growing plant can multiply to cover up the surface of your aquarium, which can starve your other plants of the light they need to grow.

14. Red Root Floater

• Scientific Name: Phyllanthus fluitans
• Common Name: Red root floater, apple duckweed
• Placement: Floating plant
• Origin: Amazon River Basin, South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – high PAR, e.g. 75 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 70 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: No

The red root floater is an attractive green or pinkish floating plant with striking red roots that hang down into the water. This is an ideal plant for open aquariums where you can enjoy its colorful rounded leaves from above. If it’s happy in your aquarium, this plant might even produce small white flowers!

15. Subwassertang

• Scientific Name: Lomariopsis lineata
• Common Name: Subwassertang, susswassertang, Loma fern
• Placement: Midground
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 75 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 75 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

The Subwassertang is a strange, seaweed-like moss that can be attached to your hardscape or left to drift around naturally in the tank. It is a great plant for fish or shrimp breeders who want to provide a healthy natural hiding place for young fry.

16. Dwarf Water Lettuce

• Scientific Name: Pistia stratiotes
• Common Name: Dwarf water lettuce, water cabbage, water lettuce, Nile cabbage
• Placement: Floating plant
• Origin: Uncertain. Africa or South America
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Low to high PAR e.g. 75 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 66 – 80 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

Dwarf water lettuce is a beautiful floating plant with pale green leaves and roots. It has low light requirements and will thrive in most aquariums, although this plant can grow pretty large. Unfortunately, water lettuce has a reputation for becoming invasive and is illegal in many states in the US, so check up on your local laws before ordering this attractive plant.

17. Hornwort

• Scientific Name: Ceratophyllum demersum
• Common Name: Hornwort
• Placement: Background – midground, floating plant
• Origin: Widespread
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium – high, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 50 – 77 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

Hornwort is a fast-growing stem plant with fine, needle-like leaves. This plant does not send roots down into the substrate, so you can leave it to float in the water column or anchor it in place with plant weights.

Hornwort is super-easy to grow and needs no special care like high lighting or CO2. These plants are also great for soaking up extra nitrates in the water and reducing the amount of maintenance you need to do.

18. Vallisneria

• Scientific Name: Vallisneria spp.
• Common Name: Vallisneria, tape grass, eel grass
• Placement: Background
• Origin: Various
• Skill Level: Easy – moderate
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 59 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate – high
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Vallisneria is a group of grass-like plants that can vary from about 8 inches to nearly 2 feet in height. These plants spread by sending a runner along the surface of the substrate and sending down roots.

Vallisnerias are ideal for the background of your aquascape and they look amazing when left to grow up to the surface and curve over, especially when there is good water movement in the tank.

19. Najas Indica (Guppy Grass)

• Scientific Name: Najas indica
• Common Name: Guppy grass
• Placement: Background, midground, floating plant
• Origin: Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 75 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 71 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: No

Guppy grass is the perfect plant for aquarists who want something that will grow fast with minimal effort. This stem plant is ideal for breeding projects because it provides excellent hiding places for baby shrimp and fry. Guppy grass does not need substrate either, so you can even grow this plant in a bare aquarium.

20. Pearl Weed

• Scientific Name: Hemianthus micranthemoides
• Common Name: Pearl weed
• Placement: Midground, foreground, carpet
• Origin: United States of America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 66 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Pearl weed is a versatile species that can be grown as an upright stem plant or trimmed regularly to encourage a low carpet. It will grow fast in a fish tank, especially if provided with increased CO2 levels and high lighting. However, this low-maintenance plant can also be left to grow to its full size at the middle and back of smaller aquariums.

21. Anacharis

• Scientific Name: Egeria densa
• Common Name: Anacharis, elodea, Brazilian waterweed
• Placement: Background, floating
• Origin: South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Low – medium PAR, e.g. 75 – 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 61 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: No

Anacharis is a large, fast-growing plant that even beginners can grow. This versatile plant can be left to float freely in the aquarium or anchored in the substrate.

Anacharis grows fast and large, so this is not the best choice for a nano tank. It has the potential to be highly invasive in local waterways, so always dispose of your trimmings responsibly

22. Nymphaea Tiger Lotus

• Scientific Name: Nymphaea zenkeri
• Common Name: Red tiger lotus
• Placement: Midground
• Origin: Africa
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium to high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 72 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: No

The red tiger lotus is a unique plant that will add color and interest to your freshwater tank. This African plant grows from a bulb and sends colorful leaves up to the surface. These plants even produce beautiful flowers if they receive enough light.

23. Amazon Frogbit

• Scientific Name: Limnobium laevigatum
• Common Name: Amazon Frogbit, South American/ West Indian spongeplant
• Placement: Floating plant
• Origin: Central & South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 64 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: No

Amazon frogbit is a beautiful floating plant for freshwater aquariums. It has smooth circular green leaves that float at the surface and interesting pale green roots that hang down into the water column. These plants shade the water and create the perfect environment for fish and shrimp to explore.

24. Dwarf Sagittaria

• Scientific Name: Sagittaria subulata
• Common Name: Dwarf sag, narrow-leaf sagittaria, awl-leaf arrowhead
• Placement: Foreground, midground
• Origin: North & South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 64 – 79°F
• Flow Rate: Moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Dwarf sagittaria is one of the best freshwater aquarium plants for the foreground or midground. It does not have special growing requirements but is most likely to create a dense, low carpet if grown under high light and with injected CO2. This plant grows rooted in the substrate and will perform best in a good quality aquasoil or fertilized substrate.

25. Water Sprite

• Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
• Common Name: Water sprite, Indian water fern
• Placement: Background, midground
• Origin: Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 72 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Water sprite is a fast-growing aquatic fern with fine, intricate leaves. This plant grows quickly and can reach over a foot tall, making it a great choice for the background of medium-sized aquariums. Water sprite can be left to float in the water column or be attached to the substrate with weights, but it does not develop a strong root system.

26. Bacopa Caroliniana

• Scientific Name: Bacopa caroliniana
• Common Name: Water hyssop, giant red bacopa, lemon bacopa
• Placement: Background, midground
• Origin: United States of America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 84 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Lemon bacopa is a slow-growing, upright stem plant that can be grown in the background or midground of your aquarium. This lemon-scented plant grows rooted in the substrate but is very easy to propagate by cuttings. It does not need high CO2 but will grow best with good light.

27. Giant Ambulia

• Scientific Name: Limnophila aquatica
• Common Name: Giant ambulia
• Placement: Background
• Origin: South & Southeast Asia
• Skill Level: Moderate
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 59 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended

Giant ambulia (video source) is an impressive background plant with dense fine foliage. It has an upright growth form but will spread horizontally when grown under ideal conditions. This plant will grow best with good nutrient levels and increased carbon dioxide.

28. Echinodorus muricatus

• Scientific Name: Echinodorus sp.
• Common Name: Radican sword
• Placement: Background, midground
• Origin: South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 59 – 86 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Echinodorus sp. ‘muricatus’ is an attractive green rosette plant for medium to large aquariums. This all-green plant grows rooted in the substrate of the freshwater tank and does not have any special requirements. However, like most species, it will grow best under quality lighting and with sufficient access to carbon dioxide.

29. Pennywort

• Scientific Name: Hydrocotyle leucocephala
• Common Name: Brazilian pennywort
• Placement: Midground, floating plant
• Origin: South America
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium PAR, e.g. 150 μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: No

Brazilian pennywort is a versatile and easy plant suitable for just about any freshwater tank. It can be grown rooted in the substrate or allowed to float on the surface and will thrive in a variety of temperatures and water parameters. This plant grows fast and is easy to propagate in the home aquarium.

30. Rotala Rotundifolia

• Scientific Name: Rotala rotundifolia
• Common Name: Dwarf rotala
• Placement: Background – midground
• Origin: Asia
• Skill Level: Easy
• Lighting: Medium – high PAR, e.g. 150 – 200+ μmols
• Temperature Range: 68 – 82 °F
• Flow Rate: Low – moderate
• CO2 Requirement: Recommended but not required

Dwarf rotala is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium plants in the hobby and is available in many varieties and colors. This Asian stem plant grows quickly under good conditions and forms a lovely background or midground feature if grown in tight bunches.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Thanks for stopping by and reading through this list of 30 amazing freshwater aquarium plants! If you’re thinking of adding a few live plants to your tank then I highly recommend just going ahead and getting started. Trust me – you won’t look back!

Do you keep live plants in your aquarium? Share your favorite species in the comments below!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

What It Is Actually Like Growing Marimo Moss Ball

The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

Table of Contents

• A Brief Overview Of Moss Balls
• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong
• Classification
• Introduction
• Origin And Habitat
• Appearance
• What Maes A Good Tank Mate For Them?
• Feeding Moss Balls
• Care
• Health And Disease
• Where To Buy
• Final Thoughts
• Is the Marimo Moss Ball Right for You?
• Species Comparison
• The Reality of Growing Marimo Moss Ball
• What It Is Actually Like Growing Marimo Moss Ball

The Marimo Moss Ball is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.

Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

For beginners, they’re nearly impossible to kill: low light, no CO2, no fertilizer required, just an occasional gentle squeeze-and-rinse to keep them round and healthy. Here’s everything you need to know to keep them long-term.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Marimo Moss Ball

Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Marimo Moss Ball without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

A Brief Overview Of Moss Balls

Scientific Name	Aegagropila linnaei
Common Names	Marimo moss balls, Moss balls, Cladophora balls, Lake balls
Family	Pithophoraceae
Origin	Japan, Iceland, and regions of Northern Europe
Skill Level	Very Easy
Lighting	Low to Moderate
Tank Placement	Bottom of tank
Flow Rate	Low
Temperature Range	65 – 80°F
Height	<5 inches in diameter
pH Range	6.5. 7.0
Growth Rate	Slow
Feed Type	Water column feeder
Co2 Requirement	No

Classification

Division	Chlorophyta
Class	Chlorophyceae
Order	Cladophorales
Family	Cladophoraceae
Genus	Aegagropila
Species	A. linnaei (Kutzing, 1843)

Introduction

Marimo moss balls is found for sale at most aquariums and pet stores. They can usually be found sitting idly on a shelf in a small container of water, sometimes next to the selection of betta fish. Fortunately, marimo moss balls can withstand these conditions, unlike their betta fish counterparts.

Marimo moss balls are one of the most interesting yet understated living things you could add to your aquarium. We call these little green balls living things because they don’t quite fit into any other category of fish, plant, or even coral. In fact, moss balls are a type of algae.

The marimo moss ball is a species of filamentous green algae called Aegagropila linnaei. Their common marimo name originates from Japanese meaning water plant and bouncy ball, which perfectly summarizes its appearance and texture. Though the second part of their common name is moss, this is a misnomer that tends to sell better than an algae label. Even though the marimo moss ball is technically an algae, many hobbyists still refer to them as aquarium plants.

While marimo moss balls are very common to find in the aquarium hobby, their populations are decreasing in the wild. Habitat destruction and dredging have disrupted the bottoms of lakes where these balls are found while eutrophication–or the accumulation of excess nutrients–has led to excessive algae growth and subsequently limited photosynthesis. All this combined has left marimo moss balls to starve.

Compared to other plants, marimo moss balls were discovered a long time ago. These algae balls were first discovered in the 1800s on the floor of Lake Zeller in Austria and then later in Japan¹. They only just rose in popularity in the aquarium hobby over the past decade.

Are They A Type Of Pest Algae?

For a while, marimo moss balls were scientifically categorized as Cladophora aegagropila. If you’re familiar with algae taxonomy, then some red flags might be going up!

The Cladophora genus is notorious for housing some of the most frustrating algae species known to the home aquarium. Species of this algae have a similar filamentous texture to marimo balls but grow very quickly and in an unorganized fashion in comparison. It is very easy to confuse this pest algae for a rogue marimo moss ball but scientists were able to find definitive differences between the Cladophora and Aegagropila genera.

So, no. Marimo moss balls are not a type of pest algae, though they are still a species of freshwater algae. If you find green algae that happens to look like your moss ball is spreading across the tank, then you’re most likely facing a Cladophora algae problem.

Cultural Significance

The marimo moss ball is a very important part of Japanese culture. So much so that it was deemed a national treasure that brings good luck and fortune. Marimo balls may also be given to each other’s significant partner as a way of expressing the heart’s true desires.

Are They Good For Fish Tanks?

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, algae isn’t inherently bad. In fact, algae is a necessary component of both freshwater and saltwater ecosystems by providing food for fish and invertebrates while also taking and storing nutrients out of the water column. In the same way, marimo moss balls are beneficial for freshwater fish tank setups.

Marimo moss balls aren’t the most efficient plants you can have in your aquarium, but they’re better than nothing. Aquarium plants depend on nutrients that are available in the water column to grow. These nutrients come from water changes, fish waste, and other organics that enter the system. Plants and algae can then use these nutrients to grow.

However, marimo moss balls have an extremely slow rate of growth, which means that they don’t need nutrients often. Still, they are processing excess nutrients that would otherwise need to be converted by beneficial bacteria or manually removed.

At the same time, marimo moss balls also introduce fresh oxygen into the aquarium through photosynthesis; fish and invertebrates create carbon dioxide which can then be used by the algae to create their own food. Freshwater shrimp and snails also appreciate grazing on any waste and detritus that gets stuck on the marimo balls.

Origin And Habitat

Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

Marimo moss balls are rare to find in the wild and need pretty exact conditions. They prefer cooler temperatures, slower currents, and low light; other species of plant and algae must also be limited so that the marimo balls are not out-competed.

Marimo balls are native to Japan, Iceland, and regions of Northern Europe. They have also been found in North America and Australia, but are not considered to be native to those regions.

Marimo moss balls usually live on the bottom of freshwater lakes, but can also be found attached to rocks or free floating. They are most likely to be found in their unique circular shape while on the lake floor where they are gently rolled by tides and currents mostly caused by wind action.

As mentioned before, the wild marimo moss ball population has been on the decline for many years due to habitat destruction and eutrophication.

Appearance

There is nothing else that quite looks like a marimo moss ball. In the wild, marimo balls can have a perfectly rounded shape thanks to the gentle current on the lake floor. In the aquarium, hobbyists cant gently roll their moss balls from time to time to keep this shape intact.

Marimo balls are green algae that are made up of small individual strands. There is no core. Together, these strands make a compact ball that ranges in size from 2 inches to a foot in diameter. Most aquarium marimo moss balls stay under 5 inches in diameter, which takes a very long time to accomplish.

Hobbyists should not confuse a marimo ball with a floating Christmas moss ball. These two balls are very similar in appearance and are often sold from the same fish tank. Christmas moss balls are covered in Christmas moss (Vesicularia montagnei), a true freshwater aquarium plant. Christmas moss has long, light green, fuzzy individual strands that take a Christmas-tree shape upon closer inspection. These balls are able to float as there is a buoyant core in the center.

What Maes A Good Tank Mate For Them?

Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

Moss balls are the perfect addition to both coldwater and tropical fish tanks. Here are just a few fish species that this aquarium algae are perfect for:

• Tetras
• Rasboras
• Gouramis
• Livebearers
• Betta fish
• Goldfish
• Some cichlids

In general, any fish that is kept with true freshwater plants can successfully be kept with marimo moss balls. Freshwater shrimp and snails will also especially love foraging on and around marimo balls as food and detritus get stuck.

A marimo ball is also a great alternative to other live plants for small betta fish tanks. Some betta fish like to pick at plants, but will generally ignore marimo moss balls.

Fish Species To Avoid

We mentioned that a marimo moss ball is a great addition to a coldwater setup, like one designed with goldfish in mind. Goldfish will love to nip at their marimo ball, pushing them around the tank to help keep their round shape. However, that curiosity and fun can quickly turn into an appetite. For this reason, we recommend using caution when introducing a moss ball into a goldfish aquarium.

For the same reason, use with cichlids should also be watched. Many cichlids like to move the decorations in their homes around, which can help keep a moss ball round but can also become food or destroyed over time.

Other species to avoid with marimo moss balls are plecos and crayfish.

Feeding Moss Balls

Moss balls are very undemanding. They do not require a lot of light or nutrients.

In general, feeding your moss ball is unnecessary. As long as there are available nutrients in the water from fish waste and other organics, there should be enough food in the water column for your moss to survive. For this same reason, carbon dioxide injections are also not needed.

If you’re placing your moss ball in a heavily planted tank, then you should dose liquid or dry fertilizers to help keep nutrients available for the slower-growing species.

How Much And How Often To Feed

How much and how often you feed your planted aquarium with fertilizers is dependent on how nutrients move throughout the system. If you find that you have low nitrates, generally considered under 10 ppm for a planted tank, then you need to dose supplements to keep nutrients available.

Care

Marimo moss ball care is simple and straightforward. In fact, your algae ball might be even easier to keep alive than some pest snail species.

There are a few conditions that need to be met to keep your marimo moss ball happy and healthy, though.

What Do They Need In Their Tank?

Marimo moss balls don’t need to be kept in a conventional planted tank with strong lighting or carbon dioxide dosers.

In fact, many people keep marimo moss balls in glass jars on their bookshelf without any substrate, filtration, or air movement; some rerolling and water changes may be needed from time to time. The only requirement is that they are constantly submerged and exposed to low to moderate lighting for at least 7 hours a day.

Marimo moss balls is kept on a gravel or sand substrate or on a bare bottom. They are most commonly kept on the bottom of the tank, but they is attached to rock and driftwood as well.

Otherwise, marimo moss balls don’t even need to be kept with fish or invertebrates and is used for household decoration!

Planted Tank Parameters For A Tank

Marimo balls do not need any special water parameters. They are very hardy and can withstand fluctuating parameters and temperatures as long as they aren’t stressed too much.

That being said, this aquarium algae does best when kept in a cooler area of the home or in a coldwater or tropical setup. The water temperature should remain steady between 65 and 80°F. When kept with fish, pH should remain fairly neutral around 7.0 with 0 ppm ammonia and nitrite and minimal nitrates.

Marimo moss balls should also be kept in dechlorinated water, no matter if kept in a jar or in a fish tank. Water dechlorinators and cheap and easy to use.

Lighting

Marimo moss balls live on the lake floor where sunlight struggles to penetrate. This means that, in the home aquarium, lighting does not need to be strong either. Marimo balls do best when grown under low to moderate lighting. Too much light can cause the algae to burn, which will cause discoloration. Not enough light may cause the algae to grow looser and turn brown or white as well.

If keeping a marimo moss ball without artificial lighting, then it’s important to make sure that it is getting enough light to photosynthesize. This usually means indirect sunlight for at least 7 hours or more.

It is also important to remember that the bottom of the marimo moss ball needs to get sunlight too. To help prevent brown spots from forming on the underside of the ball, the moss ball should be rotated about every week or so. Many hobbyists do this during their weekly water change schedule.

Filtration 

Marimo balls do not require filtration, though it’s strongly recommended to use a sponge filter or hang on the back filter. Canister filters is overly strong for your moss ball.

If you decide not to use filtration when keeping marimo balls, then regular water changes will be needed to keep the water healthy.

Flow

When it comes to keeping marimo moss balls, flow is more important than filtration.

The ideal water flow for a moss ball would be gentle and random. This would imitate the light currents found at the bottom of freshwater lakes that help keep this algae rounded. Unfortunately, this isn’t really possible in the aquarium unless filters or an air stone are hooked up to a timer.

The best way to imitate these conditions is by placing the moss ball near a filter or air bubbles so that the ball is gently rocked back and forth. This helps bring water movement under the moss ball and slowly turns it over.

If this is not possible, then you will need to manually reshape your marimo ball from time to time.

How To Keep Them Round

Marimo balls are popular due to their minimal care requirements and unique round shape. Unfortunately, this algae doesn’t naturally grow in a spherical shape and depends on environmental factors to round it out.

Luckily, it’s easy to keep your moss ball in shape. Every couple of weeks, simply remove your marimo ball from the water and roll it around in your hands. It should easily return to its compact shape.

At the same time, it’s recommended to gently squeeze out your moss ball with old aquarium water. Detritus easily gets stuck in marimo balls and rinsing them occasionally can help remove some of this waste.

How To Propagate

In all honesty, it is usually easier to buy another moss ball than it is to propagate one that you already own. This is because of how long it takes for this algae to grow.

The easiest way to propagate marimo moss balls is by cutting them in half and reshaping the new pieces into spheres. It may be necessary to use thread or fishing line to wrap around the new pieces until they hold their shape on their own.

The problem is that it will take years for both these new pieces to reach the size that the original piece was. Because of this, it’s recommended to buy an entirely new marimo moss ball of similar size instead.

Introducing Them To The Tank

Introducing marimo balls into the freshwater aquarium is easy, though it wasn’t so easy a few years ago. In 2021, zebra mussels (Dreissena polymorpha), small invasive freshwater mussels, were discovered living inside store-bought marimo balls. Luckily, the problem was caught early on and infected marimo balls were recalled.

To safely introduce your marimo ball into its new tank, first, rinse it off with old tank water. This will help remove the tank water from the store, which could possibly contain unwanted chemicals and pests.

Next, place the marimo moss ball in its desired location. It may float in the water column for a couple of days until it becomes waterlogged. You may tie it down or wait for it to naturally settle.

And that’s it! With some regular rinsing and reshaping, you will have your marimo moss ball for decades.

Is the Marimo Moss Ball Right for You?

Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

Before you buy a Marimo Moss Ball, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.

• Experience level: Marimo Moss Ball are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
• Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
• Temperament considerations: Marimo Moss Ball are generally peaceful enough for community setups, but always research specific tank mate compatibility. Even peaceful fish can become nippy or stressed in the wrong combination.
• Feeding requirements: Marimo Moss Ball are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
• Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
• Water type: This is a saltwater species. You need a fully cycled marine setup with proper salinity, filtration, and water chemistry. Saltwater tanks are more expensive and demanding than freshwater, so factor that into your decision.
• Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.

Health And Disease

Marimo moss balls are very hardy and resilient to internal and external stresses. However, they can start to develop white or brown spots if there is too much or not enough lighting.

Signs Of Health

A healthy marimo moss ball will be fuzzy and bouncy. The dark or bright green coloration should be even across the surface. This algae should be easy to mold into a circular shape, but firm enough that it holds its own in the water.

Signs Of Ill Health

A struggling marimo ball may be brown, yellow, or white. This is usually indicative of a lighting issue instead of a nutrient problem.

If your marimo ball develops discolored spots on one side, make sure that lighting is even across the surface of the ball. Discoloration can either mean too much or too little light. It can also mean that the ball has been on one side for too long.

In time, this discoloration will grow out on its own. If there is not a large area present, then the marimo ball may be trimmed once placed in better conditions.

Where To Buy

Marimo moss balls may be conveniently found at your local fish or pet store. They are often sold in little cups near other fish tank decorations or near the betta display. If your store of choice does not carry them, they can easily be bought and shipped through online stores.

On average, small moss balls retail for about $5. Larger ones can cost upwards of $15.

Final Thoughts

Marimo moss balls aren’t like other aquarium plants, in fact, they’re not considered plants at all. This unique algae is rare in the wild but has become a staple for coldwater tanks and betta fish setups. Moss balls require little to no extra care but need to be rerolled every once in a while to maintain their circular shape.

If you don’t feel like adding marimo balls to your fish tank, then you can even keep them in glass jars around your home as decoration!