Tag: Saltwater Fish Profiles

Saltwater shrimp are more than cleanup crew. Cleaner shrimp set up stations and remove parasites from fish. Peppermint shrimp eat aiptasia. Fire shrimp hide all day and look incredible at night.

Buy saltwater shrimp for what they do, not just how they look.

Saltwater shrimp get overlooked compared to their freshwater counterparts, which is a shame. Some of the most visually striking inverts in the hobby are marine shrimp. I’ve kept cleaner shrimp and fire shrimp in my 125-gallon reef, and they’re not just decorative: cleaner shrimp actively remove parasites from fish, which makes them genuinely useful in a reef setup. Peppermint shrimp are the go-to for aiptasia control. Each species has its own compatibility considerations with corals and other tank inhabitants, so here’s what you need to know before picking one.

Introduction

Freshwater shrimp get all the attention while saltwater shrimp get thrown into the tank as a last-minute addition. Marine shrimp are just as cool as freshwater shrimp, with bright colors and bold personalities. The only problem is that you can’t have as many as you could in a freshwater tank and some species have more exact requirements.

However, there are many benefits to having a shrimp in your saltwater aquarium and there is no additional care needed.

If you find that your shrimp isn’t molting on a regular one to two month basis, then there might not be enough calcium available in the water column. Trace elements may be dosed into the aquarium or calcium blocks may be supplemented.

Saltwater Shrimp Aquarium Requirements

As mentioned before, saltwater shrimp aren’t too difficult to keep happy and healthy. There is little that needs to be changed in a mature saltwater tank in order to keep a shrimp.

Tank Size

Saltwater shrimp don’t take up a lot of space. Even the larger species stay in one section of the tank after they’ve established a territory.

Hobbyists have fit most saltwater shrimp species into a 5 gallon tank, including cleaner shrimp. This isn’t recommended for everyone, though smaller species can comfortably live in near-pico conditions.

One of the most popular nano shrimp stockings is a pistol shrimp with a goby; for example, hobbyists have had success with a yasha goby (Stonogobiops yasha) and Randall’s pistol shrimp in tanks as small as 5 gallons.

Tank Setup

Shrimp don’t need any special setup, though they will do best with matured live rock. Live rock will provide your shrimp with food and shelter. More timid species, like the blood red fire shrimp, will appreciate several caves towards the back of the tank for protection. All species of shrimp will be found picking at algae and small organisms in and around the rockscape.

If planning to go with a species of pistol shrimp, it is important to think about how their burrowing behavior will alter the rockscape. To help prevent collapse, the rock should be secured by sand or gravel. The structure should be tested regularly to make sure that your fish and shrimp don’t get injured.

How Many Saltwater Shrimp Can Be Kept Together?

Most shrimp like to be the only shrimp in the saltwater aquarium but some do well in groups.

One of the most popular combinations of shrimp tank mates is the blood red fire shrimp and cleaner shrimp. However, this pairing doesn’t work unless the tank is well over 100 gallons. Though peaceful shrimp on their own, blood red fire shrimp and cleaner shrimp will be aggressive towards each other in close proximity.

Sexy shrimp, harlequin shrimp, and peppermint shrimp all do well in a group setting with their own species.

Types

While the selection of saltwater aquarium shrimp is limited, there is a shrimp for everyone! Unfortunately, shrimp prices have risen dramatically in the past couple of years, though shrimp will live for about 2-5 years on average.

When buying a shrimp, it’s important to know whether or not the species is reef-safe. Reef-safe mainly refers to compatibility with corals, though this can also include safety with fellow invertebrates as well.

1. Blood

• Scientific Name: Lysmata debelius
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Bright red with white spots on the upper back
• Unique Traits: Some cleaner shrimp behaviors
• Reef-safe: Yes

The blood red fire shrimp is one of the most eye-catching invertebrates in all of the saltwater fish tank keeping hobby. These shrimp are big and bright red. They have the same lobster-like appearance as the scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp but are much more intense in coloration.

In many other ways, these two shrimp species are similar. Both the fire shrimp and cleaner shrimp hide in the rockwork, cleaning up waste and detritus. However, fire shrimp are timider and don’t regularly exhibit fish-cleaning behaviors such as cleaner shrimp do. Because of this, they’ll resort to shadier overhangs, only coming out for food.

2. Banded

• Scientific Name: Stenopus hispidus
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Color Pattern: Red and white stripes
• Unique Traits: Large pincers
• Reef-safe: With caution

Banded coral shrimp are one of the largest shrimp species available for the saltwater aquarium growing to be about 3 inches in length, but surpassing that with extended pincers and antennae. These shrimp are sought after for more aggressive, predatory fish tanks., banded coral shrimp can hold their own against larger fish.

This isn’t to say that they’re aggressive, though. Some hobbyists have had overly aggressive banded coral shrimp while others have had no problem pairing them with peaceful fish and even other shrimp species–though we do not recommend this.

The banded coral shrimp is a large, extroverted shrimp that is seen floating around the tank in search of leftover food and other wastes.

3. Scarlet Shunk Cleaner

• Scientific Name: Lysmata amboinensis
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Red and white stripes with yellow
• Unique Traits: Cleaner shrimp behavior
• Reef-safe: Yes

Scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, also known as red skunk cleaner shrimp or simply as cleaner shrimp, are hands down the most popular saltwater shrimp species to find in the home aquarium. These shrimp are colorful and full of character.

Scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp exhibit cleaning behavior much more than the related fire shrimp. This shrimp species sets up a cleaning post on the side of the rocks where fish and other marine invertebrates come to be cleaned of dead skin, tissue, parasites, and other imperfections. They will not hesitate to even get under your nails when you put your hands in the reef tank for maintenance!

Cleaner shrimp are compatible with nearly all saltwater fish species and can help keep them healthy. They’ve even been paired with more aggressive species as those fish seem to be aware of their cleaning benefits.

4. Peppermint

Great Against Aiptasia

Peppermint Shrimp

These little shrimp are the most common livestock treatment for Aiptasia. Available as tank raised and reef safe.

Click For Best Price

• Scientific Name: Lysmata wurdemanni
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Reddish-brown, light stripes
• Unique Traits: Forms groups to eat Aiptasia
• Reef-safe: With caution

Peppermint shrimp are a very useful shrimp species as they are effective at hunting down and eating pest anemones, like Aiptasia. While some hobbyists have had great success using 4-6 of these shrimp for pest control, some have seen their peppermint shrimp completely ignore Aiptasia or even opt for other coral altogether.

These shrimp love to be in groups and will be most active and present in the company of others. They tend to hide if left by themselves in the aquarium, but are completely peaceful to other fish; some caution is needed if Aiptasia populations run low or if there are a lot of soft corals in the reef aquarium.

The peppermint shrimp is commonly confused with the camel shrimp.

5. Marbled

• Scientific Name: Saron marmoratus
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Red, white, and sometimes green-speckled appearance
• Unique Traits: Fuzzy camouflaged body
• Reef-safe: No

Also known as the saron shrimp, the marbled shrimp is one of the less commonly seen shrimp species in the saltwater aquarium hobby. These shrimp are considered not reef-safe and should not be kept with corals. They are opportunistic feeders and are likely to eat other invertebrates.

Otherwise, these speckled shrimp are efficient substrate cleaners. They mainly hide in caves formed with the substrate and will help keep food and other waste from accumulating.

6. Sexy

• Scientific Name: Thor amboinensis
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Color Pattern: Reddish-brown with large white dots
• Unique Traits: Curled up tail and unique dance
• Reef-safe: Yes

The marine shrimp with the best name, the sexy shrimp also has one of the most unique dances. These red and white dotted shrimp constantly sway back and forth, making it look like they’re moving with the current.

Sexy shrimp are very tiny and only grow to be about an inch big at mature size. Because of this, they like to form groups for safety in numbers. When kept in groups of at least three or more, sexy shrimp will gladly stay at the front of the reef tank displaying their dance.

7. Harlequin

• Scientific Name: Hymenocera picta
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Color Pattern: White with pastel blue and purple spots
• Unique Traits: Large pincers; specific starfish diet
• Reef-safe: Yes

The harlequin shrimp is a favorite due to its pastel coloration, but these shrimp are one of the most difficult to keep due to their natural diet. These shrimp only eat starfish. This can make keeping them difficult and expensive in the long run for an inexperienced hobbyist.

Harlequin shrimp are the perfect addition to a large saltwater aquarium overrun with Asterina starfish. These shrimp flip the starfish on their back and eat them from the inside out. Many hobbyists supplement Asterina starfish with other larger species, like Linckia spp..

To help keep up with the demand and to cut costs, many hobbyists cultivate pest starfish in a separate aquarium.

8. Bumblebee

• Scientific Name: Gnathophyllum americanum
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Color Pattern: Alternating black, white, and yellow stripes
• Unique Traits: Preferred echinoderm diet
• Reef-safe: Yes

Not to be confused with the freshwater bumblebee shrimp (Caridina breviata), Gnathophyllum americanum is a saltwater shrimp that looks like a bee! These shrimp have alternating black, white, and yellow stripes on top of a plump abdomen and short tail. The bumblebee shrimp may also be known as the striped harlequin shrimp (video source).

Bumblebee shrimp are difficult to keep. Like regular harlequin shrimp, bumblebees need echinoderms, like starfish, included in their diets. Unlike the harlequin shrimp, bumblebee shrimp is supplemented with other meaty foods as well.

Otherwise, bumblebee shrimp do great in nano aquariums with dimmed lighting.

9. Pistol

• Scientific Name: Alpheus spp.
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Color Pattern: Varies
• Unique Traits: Creates loud snapping noise
• Reef-safe: Yes

There are several species of pistol shrimp commonly found in the hobby, including the popular tiger pistol shrimp (Alpheus bellulus) and the Randall’s pistol shrimp (Alpheus randalli). These shrimp are named after the fish that they have a symbiotic relationship with; the “pistol” name is in reference to the shrimp’s hunting mechanism to create bubbles and pop the bubbles at speeds in excess of 60 mph to stun their prey. A loud, gunshot-like sound is the result.

Most pistol shrimp also have symbiotic relationships with fish, namely gobies. Many hobbyists choose to pair their shrimp with a goby. The shrimp helps build and maintain their tunnel home while the fish brings back food.

10. Camel

• Scientific Name: Rhynchocinetes durbanensis
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Red and white thin stripes
• Unique Traits: Humped back
• Reef-safe: No

The camel shrimp is also known as the hinge-beak shrimp, dancing shrimp, or candy shrimp. It is extremely common for camel shrimp to be confused with peppermint shrimp, especially by general pet stores. Here are a few ways to tell them apart:

1. Coloration. Camel shrimp are very brightly colored with definable thin red and white alternating stripes. Peppermint shrimp are a dim, transparent red with less defined patterns.
2. Body shape. Camel shrimp have very angular features. They are named after their distinct humped back that then leads into a pointed-upwards, sharp beak. Peppermint shrimp lack this hump and have a much broader body.
3. Diet. One of the most important differences between these two shrimp species is their dietary preference. Peppermint shrimp are used to control Aiptasia and may occasionally go after a coral or two. On the other hand, camel shrimp are almost guaranteed to go after corals and are not considered to be reef-safe.

11. Peacock Mantis

• Scientific Name: Odontodactylus scyllarus
• Adult Size: 4-7 inches
• Color Pattern: Rainbow
• Unique Traits: Deadly punch
• Reef-safe: No

Probably one of the most fascinating animals on this planet, the peacock mantis shrimp has the strongest self-powered punch on earth. These shrimp have a punch that reaches speeds of 75 ft/sec, which is comparable to a.22 caliber bullet. Check out the video above by Love Nature for some great footage.

Does that mean they can break the glass in your aquarium?

Yes, they can. They can also cause some damage to fingers and hands if hit. These incredible shrimp use this ability to break open hard crab shells and other invertebrates. Most hobbyists keep them in a tank by themselves, though some have had success keeping them with fish.

12. Pederson’s

• Scientific Name: Ancylomenes pedersoni
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Color Pattern: Translucent with iridescent blue and purple
• Unique Traits: Cleaner shrimp behavior
• Reef-safe: Yes

The Pederson’s cleaner shrimp, also known as the Caribbean anemone shrimp, is not a common species of shrimp to find. They form symbiotic relationships with anemones as well as with fish. They help remove waste from anemones while also removing parasites from fish like other cleaner shrimp.

Which Ones Are Reef Safe?

From our list, the reef safe types of saltwater shrimp are:

• Blood red fire shrimp
• Scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp
• Sexy shrimp
• Pederson’s cleaner shrimp
• Pistol shrimp
• Bumblebee shrimp
• Harlequin shrimp

These species are not reef-safe or should be added with caution:

• Banded coral shrimp
• Peppermint shrimp
• Marbled shrimp
• Peacock mantis shrimp
• Camel shrimp

Final Thoughts

Shrimp are a natural part of saltwater ecosystems. It only makes sense to add one to your home aquarium!

There are many different species of shrimp to choose from with some being more demanding than others. It’s important to pick the shrimp that is right for your aquarium and experience level. Always make sure that your tank can handle the additional bioload and that you avoid species that are not reef-safe if you have corals.

If you’re like me, then one of your favorite things to do is sit back and watch your reef tank filled with beautiful fish swimming around. Among the many different types of fishes that can be kept in a reef tank, lyretail anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) are perhaps some of the most colorful and striking. Lyretail anthias require a fair bit of care, but if you’re up for it they are definitely worth keeping. In this article I’ll provide a complete guide on how to take care of lyretail anthias so that you can enjoy them in your reef tank for years to come.

These aren’t fish you set up and forget. They’re demanding, they eat constantly, and they will show you every water quality problem your tank has. But when they’re thriving in a mature reef, there’s nothing quite like watching a school of them dart and hover in open water. That image is worth earning.

Species Overview

What People Get Wrong

Most hobbyists underestimate the feeding commitment. Lyretail anthias are not “set up and leave” reef fish. They have high metabolisms and need to eat multiple times a day. In the wild, they’re constantly picking planktonic organisms from the water column. Replicating that in captivity takes real effort, and failing to do so is the fastest way to lose these fish. Don’t buy lyretail anthias unless you can feed them at least twice a day, every single day.

The second mistake is adding them to immature systems. These fish do fine in stable, established tanks but will stress and decline in anything newly set up. Aim for a system that has been running at least six months to a year before considering them.

The Hard Rule

Never add lyretail anthias to a tank under 125 gallons (473 liters). Full stop. They need open water column space, and the harem group dynamics require room for multiple individuals to establish territories without constant fighting. A tank that’s too small creates chronic stress, suppresses immune function, and kills them slowly.

Origins And Habitat

The lyretail anthias goes by many names but is pretty easy to identify.

Contrary to popular belief, these fish are not true anthias species belonging to the Anthias genus. Instead, they belong to the Pseudanthias genus. As a fish species of Pseudanthias, these medium-sized fish have very bright colors that bring great contrast to the aquarium setting.

Lyretail anthias are native to the Indo-West Pacific Ocean. They can be found throughout the Red Sea as well as off the coasts of Japan, Australia, and South Africa. There, these fish form huge harems in clear tropical waters consisting of one male and up to 10 females. They depend on coral reefs for protection and food, mainly zooplankton.

Though these peaceful fish can be found throughout many ecosystems, there is little physical difference between populations.

Hermaphroditism And Sexual Dimorphism

Lyretail anthias demonstrate protogynous hermaphroditism, much like clownfish. This is the evolutionary ability for the fish to change from female to male depending on internal and external environmental factors.

Protogynous hermaphroditism is designed to increase reproduction rates and is especially successful in harem communities. Lyretails like to stay in large aggregations of about 10 females for every one male. When this male leaves or dies, a female will undergo the transition to male to fill this space and to optimize reproduction rates.

On top of this, lyretails display sexual dimorphism. Simply put, this is when male and female individuals of the same species differ in appearance. For the lyretail anthias, this difference is significant.

Male lyretail anthias grow considerably larger than females, maxing out at about 6 inches (15 cm) while females typically stay under 3 inches (7.6 cm). The bigger difference is in color.

Female lyretail anthias are sherbet-colored with a yellowy-pink body and bright yellow underbelly. The eyes have hints of purple which are further accented by the purple streak that runs along their cheeks.

Male lyretail anthias are much more ornate. These fish are dark purplish-red with contrasting red fins. Like females, they have a bright red streak that runs along their cheeks. They also have an identifiable elongated dorsal spine and some extension to the rest of their fins.

In the case of a missing male, females have the ability to transition into a male in under a month. If a female harem has been established without a male, the most dominant female will make the transition in about 170 to 280 days.

Lyretail Anthias Tank Requirements

Though beautiful fish, lyretails aren’t the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium. This is largely due to their spatial and dietary needs. Still, the lyretail anthias is considered to be one of the easier Pseudanthias species to maintain.

Lyretails live above the reef and need open swimming space. In the tank setting, hobbyists also need additional space to comfortably keep large numbers of these fish together. Because of this, they need at least a 125 gallon aquarium (473 liters).

Though these fish will look their best against a natural backdrop of coral, this isn’t always necessary. One of the important factors to remember when keeping these fish is that they are active zooplankton feeders, constantly searching for floating foods.

A reef aquarium setting will naturally help to maintain populations of microorganisms so that they don’t need to be manually supplemented as often.

Are They Hardy?

Though lyretails aren’t necessarily sensitive to water parameters, they do best when conditions are maintained and stable. These fish will show their brightest colors with minimal nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank setting.

Lyretail anthias are generally hardy, though they should only be kept in matured and established systems.

Reality Of Keeping Lyretail Anthias

Here’s what daily life with lyretail anthias actually looks like: you’re feeding twice, ideally three times a day. Frozen mysis, frozen brine, copepods from a refugium or pod culture. These fish are always on the move, always hunting the water column, and they’ll make your feeding schedule non-negotiable.

In a mature reef with a refugium cranking out pods, they’ll thrive with less intervention. In a tank without that natural food source, you’re doing the work manually. Both approaches can work, but only if you’re consistent. A week of inconsistent feeding will show up on the fish as dulled color and reduced activity. Two weeks and you may start losing individuals.

On the positive side: they’re absolutely stunning to watch as a group. The male displays to the females, the females interact with each other, and the whole school moves through the tank with a kind of orchestrated energy that’s hard to describe. If you’ve put in the work to build a mature reef, these fish are the reward.

Temperament

Lyretail anthias are active fish. They will usually stay at the top of or in front of the live rock, swimming loosely in their harem.

In general, these fish keep to themselves if conditions are met. Male lyretail anthias can become territorial at times, though they won’t inflict injury on another fish.

It is also common to see females picking at each other, especially if there is no male present in the tank. At that point, the biggest and brightest females may work out which one will assume the position of male in the group.

Are They Aggressive?

The lyretail anthias is regarded as one of the more aggressive species within the Pseudanthias genus. They are slightly sensitive to imperfections in saltwater tank conditions and parameters, which can affect their individual behaviors.

Lyretails are constantly searching for food. If food supplies run low, these fish will become aggressive toward other fish who might compete for resources. This is especially true for smaller and slower-moving species.

In the same way, lyretails can become aggressive if space is limited. Though the males are mostly regarded as being territorial, the females will chase after other fish if they feel cramped.

Lyretails are only concerned with food that is free-floating in the water column and won’t pick at the rocks like other foragers. These fish can be safely kept with soft corals, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and small polyp stony (SPS) corals without concern.

Though there is usually no risk with keeping lyretail anthias in a reef setup, it’s always possible for an individual fish to start picking at coral unexpectedly.

Tankmates

Not only are lyretail anthias reef-safe, but they’re also a great community fish overall. Space and dietary strains can cause individual fish to become more aggressive, but they can usually be kept with an assortment of fish.

Lyretail anthias are best kept with other reef species. This includes damselfish, tangs, wrasses, and some angelfish.

To help prevent issues with aggression, allow lyretails their own space within the aquarium. These fish will mainly stay at the top of or in front of the rockwork. Avoid other smaller fish that like to stay in the same areas for extended periods of time.

Most hobbyists pick up a group of all-female lyretail anthias and allow them to pick a male among themselves. It’s best to either pick all small juvenile females or a group of females where one is noticeably larger. Immediately adding a male to the tank can cause rejection and increased aggression between individuals.

Though these fish are a shoaling species, they actually do fine on their own in the aquarium. Many reefers have had luck keeping only one lyretail anthias by itself in a full reef tank setting. There have been no noticeable differences in behavior and the fish remains present and active.

Most times, a single fish will transition to a male when kept alone.

There are many different kinds of anthias in the aquarium hobby, both true ones and Pseudanthias. The problem is that one is more beautiful than the next, making it difficult to pick and choose. Pick species that can tell each other apart, like:

• Bartlett’s anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)
• Dispar anthias/Madder seaperch (Pseudanthias dispar)
• Bicolor anthias (Pseudanthias bicolor)
• Evansi anthias (Pseudanthias evansi)

Some hobbyists have seen aggression between males of each species, though there is usually no cause for concern. If keeping multiple species of anthias together, the tank should be much larger than the minimum 125 gallons (473 liters).

Diet

The hardest part of owning lyretail anthias is keeping them fed. These are very active fish with high metabolisms that need to be fed regularly. This is also in addition to their need for small planktonic foods, similar to their natural diet in the wild.

Luckily, most hobbyists have had success getting their lyretails to accept a wide variety of aquarium foods. For best coloration, provide a varied diet.

Lyretail anthias are carnivores. They need a good assortment of meaty foods to meet their dietary demands. This should include a selection of live, frozen, and freeze-dried options, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and black worms.

If you’re struggling with getting your fish to eat larger foods, try feeding copepods or a specialized food, like Reef Frenzy by Larry’s Reef Services (LRS).

Best Frozen Food

LRS Reef Frenzy

LRS Reef Frenzy is well known for being the best frozen food available for reef fish. High quality raw ingredients that fish love!

Click For Best Price

Not all lyretails will readily accept flake or pellet food at first, and some may never accept anything other than their preferred foods. However, if your lyretail anthias do accept other foods, high-quality flake foods can serve as a staple in the diet.

To ensure that your fish are always happy and healthy, provide feedings 2 to 3 times a day. They do better in a reef aquarium with lots of fauna in the tank such as copepods and zooplankton. You can supplement plankton with foods like Benereef, which contains planktivore content that lyretail anthias love.

Should You Get Lyretail Anthias?

Good Fit If:

• You have a mature, established reef system that has been running at least 6 to 12 months
• Your tank is 125 gallons (473 liters) or larger with open swimming space in the water column
• You can commit to feeding 2 to 3 times daily without exception
• You have a refugium or pod culture to supplement natural food supply
• You want a schooling species that adds dramatic movement and color

Avoid If:

• Your tank is under 125 gallons (473 liters)
• Your system is newer than 6 months old
• You travel frequently or can’t maintain a consistent feeding schedule
• You’re new to saltwater aquariums
• You’re not prepared to quarantine before adding to the display

Common Diseases

Though lyretails are hardy fish, they can succumb to common aquarium illnesses rather quickly. Most anthias available in stores are affected by one ailment or another. Because of this, it’s definitely recommended to quarantine before adding them to the main display.

One of the most common marine diseases your lyretail anthias are likely to encounter is Uronema, usually Uronema marinum. This is a free-living ciliate parasite that uses the host for living, feeding, and reproducing.

Though most life stages are fulfilled while actively infecting the fish, the parasite can enter the water column and affect other organisms. It can survive on bacteria and detritus within the system indefinitely, meaning that it will survive through fallow periods.

Uronema is very quick to kill and should not be ignored. Unfortunately, its symptoms can be difficult to diagnose, which can take up valuable treatment time. The main symptoms are red bumps and abrasions that eventually grow into large, open sores. Discoloration, flashing, loss of appetite, and heavy breathing also follow.

Unfortunately, many hobbyists opt to euthanize their fish once this parasite has displayed itself in the home aquarium. Usually, the fish is too far gone and it’s better to sacrifice one to save the whole. However, if you manage to catch it early enough and have the proper quarantine setup and medications, there is still some hope.

The best course of treatment is a 5-minute freshwater dip and a dose of metronidazole every 48 hours for 10 to 14 days. For best results, feed medicated food with a binder like Seachem Focus and Seachem MetroPlex.

Introducing this parasite into the main display will cause it to live in the aquarium indefinitely. The best way to prevent it from devastating your tank is by quarantining.

Where To Buy

You can find lyretail anthias at well-stocked local fish stores or online from reputable marine fish suppliers. I recommend buying from sellers who can confirm the fish are eating in-store before you purchase.

• Flip Aquatics – A reliable source for quality marine fish with good acclimation practices
• Dan’s Fish – Another solid online option for saltwater livestock

Final Thoughts

The lyretail anthias is a beautiful saltwater fish built for the reef aquarium. In the wild, these fish form harems and feed on planktonic organisms within the water column. That diet can prove to be difficult for some hobbyists, though lyretails usually adapt well to aquarium foods and conditions once they’re settled in.

One of the major diseases to watch out for is Uronema, though they are very hardy after being properly acclimated. If you have the tank size, the feeding commitment, and a mature reef system, lyretail anthias will reward you with some of the most dynamic and visually striking behavior in the saltwater hobby.

Table of Contents

• Introduction
• Key Takeaways
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins and Natural Habitat
• Appearance and Identification
• Average Size and Lifespan
• Care Guide
• Tank Mates
• Food and Diet
• Reef Safety: The Real Story
• Breeding and Reproduction
• Common Health Issues
• Common Mistakes to Avoid
• Where to Buy
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Closing Thoughts
• References

The Coral Beauty Angelfish is the dwarf angel most reefers feel comfortable buying. It has the word “reef safe” attached to it more than almost any other angelfish. That reputation is mostly deserved, and also the most dangerous thing about it.

“Reef safe with caution” is not a green light. It is a warning dressed up as reassurance.

Some Coral Beauties (Centropyge bispinosa) spend years in a reef tank without touching a single coral. Others demolish a zoanthid colony within a week of being added. You cannot reliably predict which one you’re getting. That’s not a flaw in the fish — it’s the defining reality of owning one. If you go in knowing that, you’ll make better decisions. If you go in assuming it’ll probably be fine, the corals pay the price.

That said, this is still one of the best dwarf angelfish available. The coloration — deep purple-blue with streaks of orange and gold — is legitimately striking. It adapts well to captivity, accepts prepared foods readily, and has a personality that fills a tank. For the right setup, with the right expectations, the Coral Beauty is hard to beat.

Key Takeaways

• “Reef safe with caution” means exactly that. Most individuals are fine; a minority will nip corals. There is no way to guarantee which one you have until it’s in your tank.
• Hunger is the trigger for coral nipping. A well-fed Coral Beauty is far less likely to nip. Keep feedings frequent and diet varied.
• Minimum tank size is 70 gallons for a single specimen. A 55-gallon will not give this fish enough territory and swimming space long-term.
• One Coral Beauty per tank. Two will fight unless the system is 125 gallons or larger with dense rockwork.
• Add this fish last. It will establish territory aggressively if other fish are introduced after it.
• Captive-bred specimens (Biota is the main source) are significantly healthier, hardier, and better adapted to aquarium foods than wild-caught fish.

Species Overview

Classification

The genus Centropyge contains the dwarf angelfish, a group characterized by their smaller size relative to the large Pomacanthid angels. Centropyge bispinosa is one of the most widespread species in this group, found across a broad Indo-Pacific range. The name “bispinosa” refers to the two prominent spines on the preopercle (cheek area), a shared characteristic of all angelfish.

Origins and Natural Habitat

The Coral Beauty is one of the most geographically widespread dwarf angelfish in the world. Its range spans the entire Indo-Pacific, from the eastern coast of Africa through the Indian Ocean, across to the central Pacific and as far east as the Pitcairn Islands. This broad distribution is part of why the species shows so much individual variation in color intensity and behavior.

In the wild, Coral Beauties inhabit shallow reef environments, typically at depths of 6 to 98 feet (2 to 30 m). They favor areas with dense coral rubble, ledges, and sheltered lagoon slopes where algae growth is abundant. These fish are not open-water swimmers. They are secretive grazers that hug the reef structure, picking at algae-covered rock surfaces throughout the day.

Wild populations are often found in loose harems — one male with several females — distributed across established reef territories. This natural social structure is one reason keeping two specimens in most home aquariums does not work: the territory simply isn’t large enough to support two individuals without constant conflict.

The species has also been observed at the Chagos Archipelago, the Philippines, Indonesia, Australia’s Great Barrier Reef, and throughout Micronesia. Fish from different collection areas sometimes show noticeably different color patterns, with some specimens being predominantly purple-blue and others showing heavier orange and yellow patterning.

Appearance and Identification

The Coral Beauty earns its name. The body is deep purple-blue with vertical bars of rich orange and gold across the flanks. The belly is usually the most vivid, displaying the brightest yellow-orange tones. The fins often carry iridescent blue margins, and some individuals show light blue accenting around the face and eye. The overall effect is genuinely striking, especially under reef lighting.

Color intensity varies significantly between specimens. Fish from the Coral Sea and Australia tend toward deeper purple tones, while Philippines-sourced fish often show more orange. Captive-bred specimens from Biota consistently display vibrant, stable coloration that sometimes exceeds what you’d see in wild-caught fish.

Male vs. Female

Coral Beauties are protogynous hermaphrodites, meaning females can transition to males when social conditions require it. In practice, sexing them in a home aquarium is difficult. Males tend to be larger and may show slightly more intense coloration on the dorsal area, but there is no reliable visual distinction that works consistently. In a harem, the largest and most dominant fish is typically male.

Average Size and Lifespan

In a home aquarium, Coral Beauties typically reach 4 inches (10 cm). The 6-inch (15 cm) maximum size sometimes listed in older sources refers to wild specimens; aquarium fish rarely approach that length. At 4 inches, they’re compact enough to work in a 70-gallon system without crowding the tank, but don’t confuse small body size with low space requirements. These fish need territory.

Lifespan with good care is 10 to 15 years. That’s a meaningful commitment. The fish you buy today may still be in your tank when your tank is a decade old. Water quality, diet consistency, and disease management over that full span are what determine whether a Coral Beauty thrives or merely survives.

Care Guide

Tank Size

The minimum tank size for a single Coral Beauty is 70 gallons (265 L). A 55-gallon is too small for long-term success. These fish roam and graze constantly. In a cramped tank, that behavior turns into stress, aggression toward tank mates, and a higher chance of reef nipping as the fish searches for resources.

If you plan to keep a Coral Beauty with other dwarf angelfish, a 125-gallon (473 L) minimum is required, and even then, success is not guaranteed.

Water Parameters

Stability matters more than hitting exact numbers. A Coral Beauty that experiences frequent temperature swings or salinity fluctuations is a stressed Coral Beauty — and a stressed fish is more likely to nip corals. The marine hobby mantra of “keep it stable” applies doubly here.

Filtration and Water Flow

These fish need excellent filtration. The tank should be fully cycled and mature, ideally running for at least six months before adding a Coral Beauty. A well-established biological filter and diverse microfauna on the rock surfaces gives the fish natural grazing opportunities that keep it occupied and reduces the likelihood of reef nipping.

Water flow should be moderate. Strong random-pattern flow (from wavemakers) is ideal for reef systems housing this species. Avoid dead spots, as poor flow leads to nutrient accumulation and algae blooms that can alter the fish’s grazing behavior unpredictably.

Lighting

Coral Beauties adapt to a wide range of reef lighting. Standard reef-quality LED or T5 lighting works well. The fish does not have specific lighting requirements, but if the tank also houses light-demanding corals, the lighting needs should be set by the corals, not the fish.

Plants and Decorations

Live rock is essential. This is not a negotiable element for this species. The Coral Beauty spends the majority of its waking hours grazing rock surfaces for algae, detritus, and small invertebrates. A minimum of 80 to 100 lbs (36 to 45 kg) of quality live rock in a 70-gallon system gives the fish enough grazing surface to stay occupied and healthy.

Dense rockwork with multiple hiding places reduces stress and territorial aggression. Caves, overhangs, and crevices are all used actively by this species. Open swimming space between rock structures is also important — these fish cruise the mid-water between grazing sessions.

Substrate

A sand bed of 1 to 3 inches (2.5 to 7.5 cm) of aragonite sand is standard for reef systems housing this species. Deep sand beds can be used if the overall system supports them. The Coral Beauty doesn’t dig or interact much with the substrate; the sand bed’s purpose is primarily system stability and biological filtration support.

Tank Mates

Best Tank Mates

The Coral Beauty does well in a mixed reef community with fish that occupy different niches and don’t compete directly for territory. Good options include:

• Tangs and surgeonfish — active open-water swimmers that don’t challenge the angel’s rock territory
• Blennies — small, non-competitive, and typically ignored
• Gobies — peaceful, often ignored entirely unless a goby occupies a cave the angel wants
• Wrasses — active swimmers with different territory preferences; generally compatible
• Clownfish — hold their own and are rarely bothered by Coral Beauties
• Chromis and small damselfish — usually coexist peacefully in larger systems

Tank Mates to Avoid

• Other dwarf angelfish — unless the tank is 125 gallons or larger, two Centropyge species will fight. This includes Flame Angels, Bicolor Angels, and other Coral Beauties.
• Aggressive large angelfish — larger Pomacanthids will bully or injure the Coral Beauty
• Overly aggressive damselfish — some damsels will harass a newly introduced Coral Beauty relentlessly
• Small invertebrates in reef tanks — cleaner shrimp are generally left alone, but ornamental shrimp and small decorative invertebrates carry some risk

Can You Keep a Coral Beauty with a Flame Angel?

This is the question that comes up constantly. The short answer: not in most home tanks.

Both the Coral Beauty (Centropyge bispinosa) and the Flame Angel (Centropyge loricula) are dwarf angels that compete for the same territories and resources. In tanks under 100 gallons, mixing them reliably produces aggression. In a 125-gallon or larger system with dense rockwork, it can work if both fish are added simultaneously so neither has an established territory advantage. Even then, monitor closely. Some pairs settle in; others don’t.

Choosing between the two: if reef compatibility is the priority, the Coral Beauty has a slightly better track record in mixed reef systems. If you want the more visually bold fish for a FOWLR, the Flame Angel’s red-orange coloration is hard to compete with.

Food and Diet

Feeding this fish correctly is the single biggest variable in reef compatibility. A hungry Coral Beauty nips. A well-fed Coral Beauty, consistently offered a varied diet multiple times per day, is far more likely to leave corals alone.

In the wild, Coral Beauties graze almost continuously throughout the day. They pick algae, small invertebrates, and detritus from rock surfaces in constant small meals. Replicating that feeding pattern in captivity is the goal. Two or three substantial feedings per day is the baseline. If you can manage four smaller feedings, even better.

Target diet:

• Algae-based foods — spirulina-enriched flakes or pellets, dried seaweed sheets (nori) clipped to the glass, algae wafers
• Frozen foods — mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, LRS Reef Frenzy, Rod’s Reef Food
• Angelfish-specific preparations — formulas containing sponge matter are important for long-term health; sponge is a significant component of the wild diet
• Live foods occasionally — live blackworms or copepods can be useful for fish that are slow to accept prepared foods

A Coral Beauty that refuses dry foods is not uncommon with wild-caught specimens. Captive-bred fish from Biota typically accept prepared foods from the start, which is one of the practical advantages of buying captive-bred.

Reef Safety: The Real Story

This is the section that actually matters for most people considering a Coral Beauty.

“Reef safe with caution” gets repeated so often that it has lost most of its meaning. Here is what it actually describes:

The majority of Coral Beauties in reef tanks do not nip corals. Estimates from experienced reefers and industry sources suggest something like 70 to 80 percent of individuals are genuinely low-risk in a well-maintained reef. That sounds reassuring until you remember that 20 to 30 percent are not — and you won’t know which category your fish falls into until it’s in the tank.

Corals most at risk:

• Zoanthids and palythoas — high risk; polyp tissue is a natural food source for many angelfish
• LPS corals — moderate risk; fleshy polyps like Euphyllia, Lobophyllia, and Trachyphyllia can be targeted
• Clam mantles — moderate risk; Tridacna clams are sometimes nipped
• SPS corals and leather corals — lower risk, though not zero

The trigger for nipping is almost always hunger. A well-fed Coral Beauty is far less likely to nip. This is the one lever you have to reduce the risk, and it works. Feed frequently, feed varied, and make sure the fish is getting sponge-based nutrition. An underfed fish will supplement its diet from the tank. That’s not aggression — that’s survival behavior.

If you observe any nipping within the first month, address it immediately. Increase feeding frequency, add more algae-based food, and watch closely. If behavior continues, the fish needs to be removed before the damage mounts.

Breeding and Reproduction

Breeding Difficulty

Successfully breeding Coral Beauties in a home aquarium is extremely difficult and has not been achieved reliably by hobbyists. Commercial captive breeding does occur, most notably at Biota’s facility in Palau, but requires large outdoor systems and controlled conditions not practical for home setups.

Natural Reproductive Biology

In the wild, Coral Beauties are protogynous hermaphrodites. All fish begin life as females. The dominant female in a harem group can transition to male if the existing male is lost. Spawning occurs at dusk, with the male and female rising together in the water column to release eggs and sperm simultaneously. Fertilized eggs are pelagic, drifting with currents until hatching.

Captive Breeding Progress

Biota Palau Marine Life Nursery is the main commercial source of captive-bred Coral Beauties. Their process uses outdoor 100-gallon systems in natural conditions near the fish’s native range, with aeration and regular water changes in place of conventional filtration. Larvae are microscopic at hatching and require continuous access to cultured phytoplankton and rotifers. Over several months, fry develop adult coloration and graduate to progressively larger live foods before being transitioned to prepared diets.

Captive-bred Coral Beauties from Biota are meaningfully different from wild-caught fish. They accept aquarium foods readily, are free of wild-caught parasites, and are generally hardier through the acclimation period. If you can source a captive-bred specimen, that’s the one to buy.

Home Aquarium Spawning

While some hobbyists have observed spawning behavior from established pairs in large display tanks, raising the larvae through the pelagic stage at home has not been accomplished successfully. The larvae require live phytoplankton at a scale and consistency beyond what most home systems can provide. This is not a DIY breeding project with current hobbyist technology.

Common Health Issues

Marine Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans)

Coral Beauties are susceptible to marine ich, one of the most common diseases in saltwater aquariums. Symptoms include white spots on the body and fins, flashing against rocks or substrate, and labored breathing as gill infestation progresses. The Coral Beauty is not unusually sensitive to ich compared to other marine fish, but it can succumb quickly once a heavy infestation develops.

Treatment requires quarantine. In a reef tank, most chemical treatments cannot be used safely. Hyposalinity treatment in a dedicated hospital tank is the standard approach for marine ich. Copper-based medications can be used in a fish-only hospital tank but should be dosed conservatively — dwarf angelfish can be more sensitive to copper than many other species. Monitor copper levels carefully with a reliable test kit.

Marine Velvet (Amyloodinium ocellatum)

Marine velvet moves faster and is more lethal than ich. Early signs are a dusty or velvety appearance on the skin, rapid breathing, and clamped fins. By the time visible symptoms appear, the fish is already in serious distress. Immediate quarantine and treatment are required. Copper or chloroquine phosphate are effective treatments in a hospital tank.

Wild-caught Coral Beauties should go through quarantine before entering any display tank. Captive-bred fish still benefit from a quarantine period to confirm health status before joining established tank inhabitants.

Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

HLLE presents as pitting and discoloration along the lateral line and around the head. In Coral Beauties, this often appears as faded or gray patches on the face. The condition is associated with nutritional deficiencies (particularly lack of vitamins A and C), activated carbon use, and high nitrates. Improving diet quality, switching to carbon alternatives, and maintaining pristine water chemistry can halt progression and sometimes allow recovery.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Assuming “reef safe with caution” means safe — it means there is individual variation and real risk. Go in with that understanding, not with optimism.
• Under-feeding — this is the most direct cause of coral nipping. Feed more than you think you need to. Multiple feedings per day is the standard, not a luxury.
• Adding to a new tank — Coral Beauties need an established, mature system with active algae growth on rock surfaces. A new tank doesn’t have the microbiome or grazing surface this species needs.
• Keeping two in a tank under 125 gallons — this reliably produces aggression and injury. One per tank is the default rule.
• Adding this fish first — the Coral Beauty will establish territory aggressively. Add it last or near last in your stocking sequence.
• Choosing wild-caught over captive-bred to save money — the price difference between wild-caught and captive-bred Coral Beauties is smaller than you might expect, and the survival rate and food acceptance of captive-bred fish is substantially better.
• Skipping quarantine — wild-caught fish often carry external parasites. Introducing them directly to a reef tank makes treatment nearly impossible.

Should You Get a Coral Beauty?

Good fit if:

• You have a 70-gallon or larger, established (6+ months old) reef or FOWLR tank
• You feed the tank consistently and can commit to multiple daily feedings
• Your coral collection leans toward SPS and soft corals rather than zoanthids and LPS
• You want strong color and an active personality in the tank
• You can source a captive-bred specimen
• You understand and accept that “reef safe with caution” is a real qualifier, not a marketing phrase

Avoid if:

• Your tank is under 70 gallons
• Your reef has an extensive zoanthid or LPS collection you’re not willing to risk
• You travel frequently and can’t maintain consistent feeding schedules
• You already have another dwarf angel in the tank (unless 125+ gallons)
• Your tank is new or unstable — this fish needs an established system
• You’re a beginner setting up your first reef tank

Where to Buy

Sourcing a healthy Coral Beauty from a reputable supplier makes a significant difference in long-term success. Two sources I recommend:

• Flip Aquatics — carries quality marine fish with good health guarantees. Check availability for captive-bred specimens when possible.
• Dan’s Fish — another reliable source for healthy marine livestock with solid seller transparency.

When buying, look for a fish that is actively grazing the tank walls or rocks at the store, eating offered food, and showing no signs of clamped fins, white spots, or HLLE. A Coral Beauty that is hiding and not eating at the point of sale is already stressed and a higher risk purchase.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are Coral Beauty Angelfish reef safe?

Coral Beauty Angelfish are reef safe with caution — meaning the majority of individuals do well in reef tanks, but a meaningful minority will nip at LPS coral polyps, zoanthids, and clam mantles. The risk increases significantly if the fish is underfed. Consistent, varied feeding greatly reduces the likelihood of coral nipping, but it cannot eliminate individual behavioral variation.

How big do Coral Beauty Angelfish get?

In a home aquarium, Coral Beauties typically reach 4 inches (10 cm). They can reach up to 6 inches (15 cm) in the wild, but home aquarium specimens rarely approach that size. Their compact body size makes them suitable for a 70-gallon tank, though the 55-gallon minimum listed in older sources is too small for long-term success.

Can you keep two Coral Beauty Angelfish together?

Generally, no. Coral Beauties are territorial toward their own species, and two fish in a standard-size tank will fight. In systems 125 gallons or larger with dense rockwork and simultaneous introduction, some hobbyists have success keeping a pair. But one specimen per tank is the reliable, low-stress approach.

What do Coral Beauty Angelfish eat?

Coral Beauties are omnivores that graze on algae and small invertebrates in the wild. In captivity, offer spirulina-enriched flakes or pellets, dried seaweed (nori) on a clip, frozen mysis and brine shrimp, and high-quality angelfish preparations that include sponge matter. Feed two to three times daily, mimicking their constant natural grazing behavior. Sponge-based angelfish formulas are important for long-term health.

How long do Coral Beauty Angelfish live?

With proper care — stable water parameters, a varied and consistent diet, and a low-stress environment — Coral Beauties live 10 to 15 years in captivity. The fish you buy today is a long-term commitment. Cutting corners on diet or water quality shortens that lifespan significantly.

Should I buy a captive-bred or wild-caught Coral Beauty?

Captive-bred every time, if you can find one. Biota is the primary commercial source of captive-bred Coral Beauties. These fish accept aquarium foods more readily, arrive free of wild parasites, and generally have a higher survival rate through the acclimation period. The price premium over wild-caught is usually modest and well worth it.

What corals are most at risk with a Coral Beauty?

Zoanthids and palythoas are the highest risk, followed by LPS corals with fleshy polyps (Euphyllia, Lobophyllia, Trachyphyllia) and Tridacna clam mantles. SPS corals and leather corals carry lower but non-zero risk. If your reef is built around a large zoanthid or LPS collection, weigh that risk carefully before adding this fish.

Does the Coral Beauty eat hair algae?

Coral Beauties do graze algae, but they’re selective grazers, not algae-control tools. They may eat some hair algae, but they can’t be relied on to solve an algae problem. And their requirement for a large, mature system makes them a poor choice as an algae-control purchase. If hair algae is the goal, other options work better without the space and reef-risk tradeoffs.

Closing Thoughts

The Coral Beauty Angelfish is genuinely one of the best dwarf angelfish available for saltwater aquariums. The coloration is exceptional, the personality fills a tank, and it adapts well to captivity. In the right setup, it’s a fish that rewards the investment for a decade or more.

But the reef safety question is real, not theoretical. Go in knowing that this fish may nip corals no matter what you do. Feed it well, add it last, watch it closely in the first month, and have a removal plan if things go sideways. That’s not pessimism — it’s the kind of preparation that makes the difference between a success story and an expensive lesson.

The Coral Beauty is not a beginner fish for mixed reef tanks. In the right hands, it’s one of the most rewarding fish in the saltwater hobby. Know what you’re getting into, and it’ll earn its place in the tank.

References

1. Froese, R. and D. Pauly, eds. (2024). Centropyge bispinosa. FishBase. Retrieved from fishbase.org
2. Pyle, R. et al. (2010). Centropyge bispinosa. The IUCN Red List of Threatened Species. doi:10.2305/IUCN.UK.2010-4.RLTS.T165921A6162175.en
3. Biota Aquaculture. (2024). Coral Beauty Angelfish Captive Breeding Program. Retrieved from thebiotagroup.com
4. Seriously Fish. (2024). Centropyge bispinosa. Retrieved from seriouslyfish.com
5. Fenner, R. (2001). The Conscientious Marine Aquarist. TFH Publications.

Reef Triggerfish are intelligent, aggressive, and will rearrange your tank to suit themselves. They move rocks, eat invertebrates, and bite the hand that feeds them. Literally.

Triggerfish are the most entertaining fish you will ever keep. They are also the most destructive.

Triggerfish are the most entertaining fish you will ever keep. They are also the most destructive.

I want to share this experience with you as I feel these are special fish, when you can house them in the right environment. I’ll walk you through the 8 best reef triggerfish for aquariums, most that will work in reef tanks and 2 to avoid. So let’s get started!

Introduction To Triggerfish

Triggerfish are some of the most interesting fish in the marine aquarium hobby due to their decorated appearances and incredibly bold personalities. Though these fish are full of character and can have beautiful colors, many triggerfish are not reef-safe, which prevents a lot of aquarists from attempting to keep them.

What Are They?

Triggerfish belong to the Balistidae family which only contains about 40 different species of triggerfish, already limiting the short supply of these fish that are available in the aquarium hobby.

Like many other marine fishes, most reef triggerfish originate from the lush coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Unlike other species, most triggerfish do not cohabitate with other reef-inhabitants and depend on invertebrates and corals for food rather than shelter.

These reef triggerfish are mean, hungry, fast, and strong. Hobbyists only keep them in predatory setups or species-only displays where there is no risk to other fish or reef invertebrates. Over the years, though, aquarists have experimented with keeping triggerfish in the reef setting to some surprising success.

Before we get into the best reef safe triggerfish for the aquarium, we need to first understand what makes the better majority of these fish not safe for the reef.

Behavior

Most species of reef triggerfish grow to a large size. This, in addition to their muscular beaked mouths and strong bodies, makes them a formidable predator for their natural prey of various invertebrates.

Interestingly, these fish are named after one of the behaviors. Though a predator, triggerfish can easily scare. When this happens, they take refuge in the rocks and use their first and second dorsal spines as a way to secure themselves. At this point, they can only be removed if that large dorsal spine is forcibly relaxed or the threat diminishes. This action resembles the pulling of a gun trigger, giving them their name.

This behavior is also observed while the fish is resting. Attempting to remove the triggerfish from its position during this time can cause injury to the fish. Because of this, transferring a triggerfish from one tank to another can take a lot of time and patience. Hobbyists end up having to transfer some rock along with the fish as well.

Do They Bite?

With such an intimidating mouth full of teeth, how much damage can a triggerfish’s teeth actually do?

Yes, triggerfish can and will bite, even when unprovoked. Many scuba divers have the stories and scars of being chased and bitten by triggerfish on the reef, sometimes resulting in serious injury.

In the reef aquarium, the chances of being attacked are certainly less but never completely gone. Triggerfish will greedily splash, spit, and chomp at the surface of the water during feeding times, making the difference between a finger and the food almost indistinguishable; this behavior is known as hydraulic jetting and is used for uncovering and overturning prey. For these reasons, it is recommended to keep all hands out of the tank and to use tongs when feeding.

More importantly, hobbyists need to be aware of triggerfish biting at aquarium heaters and other equipment in the tank, including electrical cords. If these fish can bite through fingers, they can certainly bite through plastic!

To prevent this, it’s strongly recommended to keep as much equipment as possible in a sump or other external filtration. If this is not possible, equipment will need to be safeguarded with egg crate or other hard plastic. A titanium heater will also be able to withstand the powerful jaws of your fish!

Acrylic vs Glass Reef Aquariums

Something you need to think about before you even consider getting a reef triggerfish is the material that your aquarium is made from.

Many larger aquariums are made from acrylic because it be a stronger material than glass. Acrylic also gives a noticeably sharper and clearer look into the tank, allowing you to fully appreciate the colors of your fish and corals.

However, acrylic scratches very easily. If you happen to get a triggerfish that likes biting the glass or begging for food at the surface, there is a small chance that it could end up scratching the acrylic. This isn’t a huge concern for most hobbyists, but the possibility is there and should be considered.

Diet

Apart from their aggression, triggerfish are extremely hardy and can adapt to most aquarium conditions. They will need to be fed a varied diet of hard, often live, foods that help keep their beaks trimmed.

Triggerfish need to be fed often. They are highly active and need to restore those nutrients through small feedings throughout the day; most hobbyists aim for at least 5 small portions every day.

Because of this, many triggerfish keepers set up a snail culture. This allows them to have a near-constant supply of food that also helps keep beaks trimmed. This is even better than buying from the store in terms of expense and having control over the health of the snail population. Other hard-shelled invertebrates, like clams and shrimp, may also be supplemented.

In addition to these hard foods, triggerfish will accept most frozen foods. As omnivores, they will also accept marine algae snacks.

Reef-Safe vs Not Reef-Safe Triggerfish

There are some differences between reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish. Remember, there is always the possibility that a triggerfish that is labeled as reef-safe may not prove to be so in your own aquarium.

When talking about reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish, there are a few levels of compatibility. In general, most triggerfish will leave corals alone; if you find that a triggerfish has taken a bite of coral, it is more likely that there was an invertebrate on the coral than it is for the fish to intentionally go after the coral for food. However, there are some species that are more likely to intentionally or mistakingly eat corals than others.

Then, there are reef triggerfish that don’t eat corals or invertebrates. In the wild, these fish often rely on various types of zooplankton, like copepods, as their main source of nutrition. Not only is there a difference between food preferences with reef-safe versus not reef-safe triggers, but there are also behavioral differences.

Reef-safe species are anatomically different. They have smaller mouths that are higher up on the head to help them capture food in the water column. Because they depend on the water column for food, they are more likely to be in the open ocean than among the rocks.

Reef-safe species are also less likely to destroy your rockwork. Reef Triggers that rely on invertebrates and corals for food is very determined. They will be spitting sand and will even pick up and move rocks in order to reach their food. In return, this can injure corals and make a mess in the aquarium.

In general, reef-safe species are also much less aggressive, though this varies from fish to fish. As always, not every reef-safe triggerfish will be completely safe for a reef aquarium, but there are certainly some species that do better than others.

Different Types

Though there are not many species of reef triggerfish, there are actually quite a few different genera:

• Melichthys
• Odonus
• Xanthichthys
• Rhinecanthus
• Bailstes
• Balistoides
• Pseudobalistes
• Sufflamen

From this list, Melichthys, Odonus, and Xanthichthys tend to be considered the most reef-safe, with Xanthichthys being the most confirmed success.

Triggerfish are smart enough to recognize their owner and aggressive enough to bite them. This is not a passive display fish. It runs the tank.

Each species from these genera will vary in needs, so it is always important to do plenty of research before you go out and buy a triggerfish! Especially since some of these species is very, very expensive and grow to impressive sizes.

8 Best For Aquariums

Here are the top types of triggerfish that are likely to be reef-safe. Remember, this means that they are the species most likely to leave both corals and invertebrates alone. This can always change from fish to fish so don’t take the chance if you’re not willing to lose anything in your tank!

Due to spawning behavior in the wild, not many of these have been successfully bred in captivity. This can cause some prices to be higher and limit the availability of certain species.

1. Sargassum (Xanthichthys ringens)

• Species Type: Xanthichthys
• Scientific Name: Xanthichthys ringens
• Size: 10 inches
• Origin: Caribbean Ocean
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

The Sargassum triggerfish is also commonly known as the red tail triggerfish. These fish are named after the point in their juvenile stage where they hide among floating vessels of Sargassum algae until they are ready to survive open waters. Their second common name comes from their identifiable orangey-red tail at the end of their speckled bluish-grey body.

Sargassum triggerfish are very common to spot in groups among relatively shallow reef ecosystems throughout the Caribbean. There, they feed on crabs and sea urchins. In the reef, they won’t touch corals but might take a bite at any present invertebrates.

2. Bluethroat (Xanthichthys auromarginatus)

• Species Type: Xanthichthys
• Scientific Name: Xanthichthys auromarginatus
• Size: 9 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

The bluethroat triggerfish, also known as the gilded triggerfish and bluechin triggerfish, is an expensive yet eye-catching aquarium fish. These reef triggerfish have a very obvious blue patch around their throat with a lighter dappled grey body and yellow margins on their fins.

The bluethroat triggerfish be found on the perimeter of the reef in loose groups. They heavily rely on copepods as a source of food, which will translate into their aquarium diet.

3. Niger (Odonus niger)

• Species Type: Odonus
• Scientific Name: Odonus niger
• Size: 12 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

The Niger triggerfish, also known as the red-toothed triggerfish, is probably the most commonly available type of reef triggerfish in the aquarium hobby. They have a silky blue body with hints of yellow on their throat; as their second name suggests, they may have maroon-colored teeth.

Though named after an African country, these fish have a large range throughout the warm waters of the Indo Pacific region. They live in very strong currents where they group together and feed on copepods and sea sponges.

Hobbyists have had some success keeping this aquarium fish in a reef tank. They tend to be safer to keep when small but can become quite aggressive to invertebrates and other fish as they age.

4. Crosshatch (Xanthichthys mento)

• Species Type: Xanthichthys
• Scientific Name: Xanthichthys mento
• Size: 11 inches
• Origin: Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Available

The crosshatch triggerfish shares the same secondary common name, red tail trigger, with the Sargassum triggerfish. In comparison, the crosshatch triggerfish is much more expensive and desirable due to its distinctive color pattern of black and yellow; the males have a red tail fin while the females have a yellow one.

These beautiful reef triggerfish is found off the coasts of oceanic islands, including Japan, the Hawaiian islands, and Easter Island. There, they hunt copepods in schools.

This aquarium fish is one of the friendliest species of triggers and will leave most corals and invertebrates alone.

5. Pinktail (Melichthys vidua)

• Species Type: Melichthys
• Scientific Name: Melichthys vidua
• Size: 14 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

The pinktail triggerfish has a very obvious broom like tail that is pastel pink, though the rest of their greenish-yellow body make them less desirable but more affordable. Unlike the other reef triggerfish on this list, these fish actually prefer marine algae and various detritus as their main diet. However, they will also eat smaller fish and invertebrates if given the opportunity.

That being said, many hobbyists have kept these fish in a full reef aquarium without too many problems. Of course, there is a chance that they will eat any present invertebrates but chances is improved with more regular feedings.

6. Indian (Melichthys niger)

• Species Type: Melichthys
• Scientific Name: Melichthys niger
• Size: 14 inches
• Origin: Widespread
• Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

The Indian triggerfish, also known as the black triggerfish, is another common type of trigger. These fish have a near black body and matching fins, though the bases of the fins are outlined in light blue; in good lighting, these reef triggerfish have dark blue patterning all along their body, but this is difficult to see.

The exact native range of the Indian triggerfish is unknown. They are believed to be widespread, with increased concentrations around oceanic islands, like Hawaii. These fish mainly feed on various algae and zooplankton. They have an interesting relationship with spinner dolphins where they both congregate together while the fish feed on the dolphin’s feces and vomit.

These fish aren’t kept in reef tank setups, though they seem to be very similar to pinktail triggers in behavior and demeanor.

7. Picasso (Rhinecanthus aculeatus)

• Species Type: Rhinecanthus
• Scientific Name: Rhinecanthus aculeatus
• Size: 10 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 180 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

Picasso triggerfish, also known as Humuhumu triggerfish (the official state fish of Hawaii), are very popular and often become the star of the tank. These fish are light tans and whites with paint splashes of yellow, blue, black, and brown.

Unfortunately, Picasso triggerfish is very aggressive towards fish and invertebrates. Though they likely won’t touch any corals in the tank, they will gladly eat larger crabs, sea urchins, and shrimp. Some hobbyists have had luck with keeping them in full reef setups as juveniles, but their aggression often grows with them.

In their natural shallow reef ecosystems, Picasso triggers are territorial and enjoy the open water.

8. Clown (Balistoides conspicillum)

• Species Type: Balistoides
• Scientific Name: Balistoides conspicillum
• Size: 20 inches
• Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
• Tank Size: 300 gallons
• Available As Tank Bred: Available

The clown triggerfish is the fish that everybody wants. This is one of the most colorful and interesting fish to look at in the aquarium hobby, period.

Many beginner hobbyists would love to get their hands on one of these black and white polka-dotted fish. However, they can grow to extreme sizes and need extreme setups. For most, it’s simply unrealistic to keep a clown triggerfish in the typical saltwater reef tank. Unfortunately, this doesn’t stop many from trying to do so.

In the wild, clown triggerfish live on their own and are very rare to come across. They feed on a variety of different benthic invertebrates, making them safe for corals but a predator for crabs, shrimp, and other cleanup crew members. This is one of the few triggerfish species that are available as tank bred.

Species To Avoid

While reef triggerfish are beautiful, there are a few species that common hobbyists want to avoid. This includes:

Undulate (Balistapus undulatus).

Also known as the orangelined triggerfish, this fish is super aggressive. They will definitely eat invertebrates and likely go after other fish in the aquarium as well. Because of this, they should only be kept with bigger reef fishes or ones that are able to defend themselves through poison, venom, or other body armor. They have tough teeth and can damage rocks, acrylic, and fingers. Buyer beware.

Queen (Balistes vetula).

These triggerfish need to be treated like nothing less than royalty. Queen triggerfish can grow to an impressive two feet and can become incredibly aggressive to fish and reef invertebrates alike. This makes them almost impossible to keep in the home aquarium, but something to admire on public display or appreciated from diver videos (like the one above by Rumble Viral).

Where To Buy

Triggerfish are available at local fish stores and several online fish stores. However, you will find large or common reef triggerfish when looking to purchase locally. If you are looking for smaller, tank raised, or even the more exotic types like crosshatches, consider purchasing from an online fish store.

These fish tend to do well when shipped and imported, however, do not purchase from an online retailer unless there is a guarantee on the fish or the fish is a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) fish.

For retailers, I would consider salwaterfish for budgets, liveaquaria’s driver’s den for middle price, and TSM corals for the most exotic varieties. Triggers is expensive. If you are going to spend, make sure your retail backs their fish with guarantees or a quarantine process.

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Final Thoughts

Triggerfish catch the attention of many hobbyists due to their impressive sizes, bright colors, and fearsome sharp teeth. Though most reef triggerfish species are incredibly hardy, not many hobbyists can actually keep them in their home aquariums due to their potential size and behavior.

Triggerfish are predatory fish. While there are some species that are reef-safe, there is always the chance that they take a liking to your reef invertebrates or corals.

Got any experience in keeping triggers? Leave a comment below.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

After 25 years in the saltwater hobby, I’ve seen just about every disease that can hit a reef or fish-only tank. ich, velvet, flukes, and more. I’ve personally gone through the heartbreak of losing fish to diseases I didn’t recognize quickly enough, which is why I now run a strict quarantine tank for every new addition. Knowing what to look for and how to treat it fast can mean the difference between saving your fish and a tank crash. This guide covers the most common saltwater fish diseases I’ve encountered and the treatments that actually work.

Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases

These are some of the most common diseases that are seen in saltwater fish.

1. Ich (Marine White Spot Disease)

Ich’s version is saltwater tanks is Cryptocaryon irritans vs Ichthyophthirius multifiliis – it’s freshwater version. It is considered a moderately serious parasite that infects fish. Ich is one of those parasites that you can either choose to eliminate entirely or manage.

For those that decide to manage it, you focus on having a low stress environment for your fish and managing with equipment like UV sterilizers, Ozone, Diatom filters, or an Oxydator.

Fighting Marine Ich is all about know it’s life cycle. The picture below from Charles Raabe posted on Humblefish’s website is a good illustration of how the cycle works.

Symptoms

• Salt-like white spots on fish usually on the fins or body
• White spots are spread out and can be counted. Too many to count would indicate a far more serious disease (Velvet)
• Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

Treatment

• Fallow period (fishless) is 76 days
• Copper like Copper Power
• Chloroquine Phosphate in quarantine system
• Hyposalinity in fish only or quarantine systems
• Manage with equipment like UV Sterilizers

2. Marine Velvet

Marine velvet is the most common of what I call the deadly 3. The deadly 3 are 3 of the most serious diseases in the saltwater hobby that have the potential of wiping out all the fish inhabitants of your tank. It is a disease that is not to be taken light, sometimes killing fish before symptoms show.

This disease requires a 76 day fallow period to eliminate and cannot be managed like Ich. You have to wipe it out completely. This disease is the #1 reason to quarantine your saltwater fish.

Symptoms

• Number white spots – so many that you can’t count. Almost dust like
• Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing
• Fish sensitive to light
• Fish swimming to current to breathe
• Mysterious sudden deaths of inhabitants

Treatment

• Copper like Copper Power
• Chloroquine Phosphate
• Fallow period – 76 days
• Disease must be treated in a quarantine tank to fully eliminate

3. Brooklynella (Clownfish Disease)

Brooklynella is the 2nd most common of the deadly 3 saltwater fish diseases. It typically affects clownfish, which is how it got its name clownfish disease from. Other fish can be inflected, but their physical symptoms will look different as you will see white blotches versus white film.

This disease has the potential to wipe out all the fish in a saltwater aquarium. Like with velvet, you can only eliminate it by doing a quarantine and doing a fishless period (fallow) for 6 weeks.

The medication used here are powerful. Formalin is the old school way of bathing and is no longer available in several states. Chloroquine Phosphate is the drug of choice here, but also difficult to obtain.

Symptoms

• Powderly white film
• Almost web-like white film on fish in advanced stages
• Large white blotches on non-clownfish
• Sudden deaths with any physical symptoms

Treatment

• Formalin bath (if legal in your state) – Ruby Reef Rally can be used as an option.
• Formalin bath – 45 minutes
• If Ruby Reef Tally – 90 minutes
• Freshwater dips can be used if above meds are not available. Bathe for 5 minutes
• After bath – treat with Metro + Chloroquine Phosphate
• Seachem Metro for 14 days in aquarium and feed to fish with focus binding if fish is eating
• Chloroquine Phosphate
• Fallow period – 6 weeks

4. Uroema marinum

Uroema is the scariest and hardest to battle of the deadly 3. This parasite has a direct life cycle, which means it has no encrusted stage like Brook. While this may mean the parasite is easier to eliminate, that is not the case. This disease can live without a host, mainly feeding on detritus to maintain itself when fish aren’t available.

You simply cannot get rid of this disease once it’s in your aquarium. It is that much of a nightmare. You can manage after you get rid of fish with sympthoms by maintaining a very clean saltwater aquarium and not purchasing chromis fish – the pathogens favorite host.

This is the only disease of the deadly three where euthanasia is recommended. Once the red sores appears, it’s usually too late to help the fish. Medication used here are strong just like Brook and velvet. Do not take this disease lightly

Symptoms

• Red sores on fish
• Sores appear in a vertical line usually around the center of the fish
• Sudden death without physical symptoms

Treatment

• If no sores are present – Formalin or Rally bath to start
• If sores are present – Use freshwater dip. Also okay to use if medications are not available
• Cholorquine Phophate
• Seachem metro treated food with focus to treat internal infections
• Euthanasia with clove oil

5. Flukes

Flukes are a hidden parasite that you will often come across with large fish like Tangs. While not serious on their own, it is common for these flukes to cause secondary infections (usually bacterial infections) on the infected sites.

This is one of the few diseases on the list that you can treat for in a display tank using Prazipro or General Cure. You can also use a freshwater dip to provide relief to the fish, as long in this video by Meredith Presley.

Symptoms

• Lethargic fish
• Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

Treatment

• 5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
• Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
• Hyposalinity for 7 days

6. Black Ich

Black ich is parasitic flat worm that usually affects Tangs (picture source). Like flukes it is a moderately severe disease that can develop secondary infections. It has the same treatment as flukes and can be treated in the display tank

Symptoms

• Small black spots on body
• Spots are raised

Treatment

• 5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
• Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
• Hyposalinity for 7 days

7. Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are very serious in the saltwater hobby. There are two types – gram-positive and gram-negative. Gram-negative are more serious and unfortunately the most common with saltwater fish. These infections are typically secondary infections from aliments like Ich or flukes. Wounds will also cause infections.

Treating a bacterial infection requires antibiotics and a quarantine tank. Because there are so many different types of bacterial infections, multiple medications are used. Board spectrum medications are the best to use to get a handle on the infection.

Because you cannot differentiate between a gram-positive or gram-negative infection without a scrape and microscope, it’s best to assume all bacterial infections you come across are gram-negative.

If untreated, a bacterial infection will typically kill a fish. Most gram-negative infections will kill a fish within 1-2 days.

Symptoms

• Redness, soreness on body
• White film or fungus looking growths
• Cloudy eyes
• Fin & tail rot

Treatment

• 90 minute dip in Ruby Reef Rally (one of the active ingredients is an antiseptic)
• Antibiotic options
  • API Triple Sulfa
  • Seachem Sulfaplex + Neoplex
  • Spectrogram (only available via American Aquarium)
• Treat antibiotics for 7-10 days

8. Head & Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

HLLE is a condition that is typically associated with tangs (picture source). There isn’t a definitive answer as to why this condition occurs, but there are several theroies:

• Poor nutrition
• Stray voltage
• Carbon
• Stress

Since there this isn’t a disease but more of a condition, this can be treated without medication. Tackle this by addressing all possible causes. Feed your fish quality frozen food and greens like Nori for tangs. Use a ground probing to remove any stray voltage and get any carbon in your filter/sump out of your system.

HLLE will sometimes heal over time, other times the fish will have some scarring from the condition. It’s all dependent on how quickly you can address the issue.

Symptoms

• Discoloration of fish
• Looks like color is peeling off from fish
• White or grey fading of color in patches

Treatment

• Increase nutrition with quality frozen food and vitamins like Selcon
• Remove any stray voltage with a grounding probe
• Remove any carbon from your filter or sump
• If fish was treated with copper – increase nutrition condition may heal over time

9. Internal Infections & Parasites

Internal infections can either be worms, parasites, or bacterial infections. Since it’s difficult to tell what your fish has, it’s best to tackle this ailment with a broad medication. General cure + focus is the big practice here with Metro + Prazipro being another combo (General Cure has both).

This is a very common issue with imported fish, but also easy to cure if you catch it early. This is a condition that can be treated in a display tank, though best handled in a quarantine tank before the fish is introduced to the display system.

Symptoms

• Sunken bullies (like video)
• White stringy feces
• Skinny fish that can never gain weight

Treatment

• General cure + Focus mixed with food
• Treat for 10-14 days or until feces is no longer white for several days

10. Swim Bladder Disease

Swim bladder disease is an all too common issue with imported deep water fish. Wrasses in particular are the most common fish affected by this aliment due to poor handling by the importer.

I’ve personally dealt with this issue several times in my reefing journey. I got so frustrated with this from imported fish, I stopped buying wrasses online unless it was a what you see is what you (WYSIWYG) get wrasse.

You can do the 3 treatments below in the bullet points. Some cases get to the point where you will need to lance the fish to remove the gas bubble. This is an advanced techique that should not be attempted by a beginner.

If you are going to attempt the lancing method (see video above), try to get an experienced reefing member from a reef club or considering calling your local vet. Some vets have performed the procedure with large ornamental fish or koi.

Fish will usually die without treatment as they cannot compete for food and will be subject to bullying. I haven’t seen any swim bladder wheelchairs made for saltwater fish versus goldfish (where these devices are more common).

Symptoms

• Fish is unable to swim upright
• Fish unable to swim downwards
• Gas bubble present in belly

Treatment

• Epsom salt – one tablespoon per 5 gallons
• 30 minute Methylene Blue bath
• Metro + Neomycin + Focus in food
• Lancing (See video) do not attempt unless with an experienced reef or have a license vet perform it

11. Lymphocystis

Symptoms

Lymphocystis makes this list as it is confused by ich. The disease fortunately is rarely fatal. However, the bad new is this is a viral infection. The fish will continue to carry the virus for the rest of its life. It can be managed.

The healthier the fish is, the more likely this virus will stay in remission. Focus on putting your fish in a low stress environment with a great diet. The virus will come and go, but the your fish can live a healthy life carrying it.

• White color growth on fins and back of fish
• Starts small, then grows in size

Treatment

• There is no known cure
• Can put virus in remission by providing a low stress environment and high quality diet

How to prevent many health issues in your fish

Prevention is the best medication when it comes to disease. There are many things that you can do at home to help prevent many of these issues in your fish. Your favorite pet’s health depends on water quality, diet and levels of stress; however there is still more we could do for them! Here’s how:

1. Quarantine New Fish

This is your #1 preventative measure against diseases. Many saltwater fish are imported, which means they go through a lot of stress to get to your home. This stress lowers the fish’s immune system and makes them venerable to disease. Some importing practices are also not ideal, leading to several issues after getting the fish.

You can save yourself a lot of headache and tank crashes by quarantining. If you want to learn more about it, I have a great article on quarantining.

Not interested in quarantining fish? If so, consider working with an online retailer who specializes in quarantined or pre conditioned fish. My top two choices for these would be Live Aquaria’s Drivers Den or TSM Corals. Go with TSM Corals if you can fish the fish you want there – they have the best practices in the industry.

2. Provide A Quality Diet

To keep your fish healthy, it is important that they have a proper diet. A well balanced and species appropriate food will not only make them full but also less likely to fight with other individuals in the tank over meals! Top quality frozen food is the best food you can purchase for saltwater fish. You can also do cultivated live food like black worms, but I’m assuming many readers here don’t want to go that route.

For frozen food, there are two brands I highly recommend. LRS and Rod’s Food are the two best frozen food makers on the market. Both are difficult to find online, but you can find them at specialty fish stores.

Best Frozen Food

LRS Reef Frenzy

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3. Provide Pristine Water (Avoid Poor Water Quality)

Part of establishing a low stress environment for fish is providing quality water. For saltwater tanks, an aquarium sump is the best filter you can purchase. Use a sump to your advantage by installing quality equipment like protein skimmers too keep your tank filtered and consider getting an auto top-off unit to keep your salinity stable.

Saltwater tanks are different than freshwater tanks in that some may not need a traditional water changing schedule. Test your water quality with quality test kits and only change water to maintain your parameters. If you have a reef tank, consider investing in a dosing pump to keep your calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels up

4. Reduce Stress

There are a few ways to reduce stress. I explained water as one. The other would be shelther and tankmates.

For shelter, you can provide your fish with lots of rocks. A large amount of live rock and/or dry rock provides plenty of spaces for fish to get shelter in. For most reef tank setups, shelter will usually not be an issue.

Tank mates are the next. You want compatible tank mates. Too many territorial disputes and bullying from aggressive fish will lead to stress, injuries, and disease. Add your most passive fish first and your most aggressive last.

5. Purchase Captive Bred Fish

Captive bred fish are generally healthier and have a better time adjusting to a home aquarium environment. You can avoid a few of the aliments on this list like Swim bladder disease from purchasing tank bred fish. You will still come across Marine Velvet and other serious diseases, but you will lower your risk in getting outbreaks with healthier fish who are used to living in a captive environment.

Creating A Medicine Cabinet

Anyone who has multiple saltwater fish and tanks eventually deals with sick fish. Whether you quarantine or not, it’s a good idea to keep medication on hand for emergencies! Here are some common medications that can help – I’ve added them together in one table so they’re easy to read. Most are available online or at your local fish store. Purchase them now before you are in a bind. Many medications on this list have long shelf lives.

FAQS

Further Resources

It would be unfair for me to talk about saltwater fish diseases without mentioning Dr. Fish himself, Humblefish. His forum is the go to if you are dealing with sick or infected fish in the saltwater tank hobby. Give his forum a visit if you need immediate assistance. The community there is amazing. They can be a lifesaver in a hobby where Vets are hard to find with experience in these aquatic animals.

Final Thoughts

Saltwater fish diseases tend to be more serious then with freshwater fish. Because of this, quarantining is the best practice. If you come across a sick fish, take action right away. Use this guide to help identify what you are going against. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below. Thanks for reading!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

Looking for a full Mandarin Goby care guide? I have you covered today on this beautiful, but tricky to care for fish.

The Mandarin Goby is a small fish with enormous care demands. They are visually unlike anything else in the saltwater hobby, but their nearly exclusive diet of live copepods makes them one of the hardest fish to keep alive long-term. This guide gives you everything you need to know before buying one and what it actually takes to keep one thriving.

Species Overview

What People Get Wrong

Most people buy mandarin gobies because of their colors and assume the fish is as easy as it looks harmless. It’s not. The mandarin’s challenge isn’t water parameters or disease susceptibility. It’s feeding. These fish eat almost exclusively live copepods, and a tank that hasn’t built up a thriving, self-replenishing pod population will have an empty pantry within days.

The second mistake is confusing “can survive in” with “thrives in.” Yes, hobbyists have kept mandarins in 10-gallon tanks. Those are expert-level setups with extraordinary pod management. The casual hobbyist needs at minimum 30 gallons (113 liters) with a refugium running underneath and a robust live rock ecosystem that has been established for at least a year.

Third mistake: skipping the feeding check at purchase. Never buy a mandarin goby unless the store can show you it eating. A mandarin that won’t eat frozen food and is in a tank without pods is already declining.

The Hard Rule

Do not buy a mandarin goby until your tank has been established for at least 12 months with a healthy, visible copepod population. This is not optional. A new tank does not have the pod density to sustain this fish. Buying one earlier is buying it a slow death.

Origins And Habitat

It is crazy to think that such beautiful fish exist on their own in the wild. The mandarin goby is a spectacle to find around Pacific reefs. More specifically, they can be found in the Western Pacific Ocean, from the Ryukyu Islands below Japan to the barrier reefs off the coasts of Australia.

There, they live in and around shallow reefs and lagoons less than 60 feet (18 meters) in depth. They prefer silty bottoms littered with pieces of coral that won’t injure their underbodies. These islands of reef provide good hunting grounds for their favorite food, copepods, as well as other small invertebrates and microorganisms.

Interestingly, mandarin gobies are usually seen in small groups, foraging together among this rubble.

What Do They Look Like?

Mandarin gobies are some of the most beautiful fish in the fishkeeping hobby. Unfortunately, this beauty, combined with their relatively low price point, causes them to end up in the wrong hands of inexperienced hobbyists. The colors come at a price in care complexity.

Mandarin gobies have a deep aquamarine body with swirls and spots of greens and oranges that lead into a spectacular large reddish-orange tail fin. They also have a very distinguishable red eye against a lighter green head.

These gobies have large pectoral fins that they use to navigate and hover over coral reefs and the seafloor. They also have impressive dorsal fins that can easily collapse or be raised for a sail-like effect. As we’ll discuss, these dorsal fins are also used for telling the difference between males and females.

Mandarin gobies are only 3 inches (7.6 cm) long at mature size, but they immediately catch the eye with their unparalleled colors. In fact, they’re one of the few species of fish to express true blue pigmentation.

Male vs Female

If planning to attempt to breed mandarin gobies in your own reef aquarium, it is important to be able to distinguish a male from a female. Luckily, these fish are pretty easy to tell apart from each other, making it easy to obtain one of each.

The main difference between a male and female mandarin goby is the presence of an elongated spine at the front of the first dorsal fin. Males will have a noticeable point on top of their heads that cascades into a normal dorsal fin. Females will not have this spike and will have a rounded first dorsal fin instead.

Tank Requirements

In terms of setup, mandarin gobies are easy to keep. They do well in reef settings with lots of cracks and crevices for them to hide in and to forage for food. A soft substrate, like aragonite sand, will also keep their underbellies safe from jagged, coarser granules.

Mandarin gobies are considered a nano species and hobbyists have kept them in aquarium sizes as small as 10 gallons (38 liters). However, these are expert hobbyists and the casual fish keeper will not be able to do this for dietary reasons we will discuss later.

Instead, these gobies should be kept in a minimum tank size of 30 gallons (113 liters). An even larger tank will help maintain a steady food supply. Even big tanks with mandarin gobies in them will still need supplemental feeding from time to time.

Should You Quarantine Them?

For being such a difficult fish to keep alive in the aquarium, mandarin gobies are actually quite resilient and have good immunity to most common aquarium diseases.

These fish are known to excrete a protective mucus that prevents them from getting the most common aquarium diseases, especially those that attack the external body like some parasites. In addition to this natural defense, most hobbyists don’t quarantine them due to their immediate dependency on a living ecosystem.

Placing a mandarin goby in quarantine is basically redundant. Most medications that could preemptively be dosed would end up killing any and all pods while unnecessarily stressing out your fish. This could lead to a starving fish that might have been relatively healthy in the first place.

Instead of quarantining your mandarin goby, buy from a reputable local fish store. Introduce it to the main display and observe closely for any signs of sickness. The most important thing, though, is to get your goby regularly eating and accepting a variety of foods as soon as possible.

Mandarin Goby Care Guide

While mandarin gobies are mostly peaceful, they can be aggressive towards other fish around the reef, especially other similar-looking sand dwellers.

The same is true for keeping mandarin gobies with other mandarin gobies. However, given some time, multiple goby species are able to work out territories among themselves after a bit of fin nipping. If you have a male and female mandarin goby, you might even end up with a breeding pair when all is said and done.

If planning on keeping more than one species of goby in the reef aquarium, it is imperative to have a steady source of copepods. This can be achieved through harvesting your own copepods as well as having a larger tank in general. You can also purchase pods from companies like Algaebarn.

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Otherwise, mandarin gobies can be seen weaving in and out of the rockwork looking for food. They are shy fish and spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank, but they might venture up to the higher portions of the rockwork if hunting is good.

In general, if you see your fish picking at the rock, there is food available. You should be concerned if your fish starts to become more lethargic or duller in appearance and is drifting from rock to rock without nipping at anything.

Are They Poisonous?

You might’ve heard that the most colorful animals in the world are toxic, like poison dart frogs. Being one of the most colorful fish on the reef, does this mean that you need to worry about your mandarin goby killing the rest of the fish in your tank?

Yes, mandarin gobies do carry toxins. However, it’s something you’ll rarely ever have to worry about.

When threatened, these peaceful fish excrete toxic mucus that apparently has a disgusting odor as well. It isn’t exactly known how detrimental this poison can be to nearby life, but the smell of the mucus can be very noxious.

It is very rare for your fish to excrete this mucus as they are incredibly docile. However, if they are mishandled or threatened by another fish, they will use this as protection. The excretion of the mucus can be seen as fine filaments in the water radiating away from their bodies.

Having to excrete this mucus often stresses out the fish a great deal and it is likely that the fish will die shortly after. If this happens while in the reef aquarium, do a water change immediately and continue to monitor parameters. Once things are under control, look for the cause of the annoyance.

Tankmates

Mandarin gobies are reef-safe fish. They can be kept with an assortment of peaceful fish that won’t chase them around or try to steal their favorite places among the rockwork.

This can be troublesome with keeping mandarins with other gobies and blennies that might get too close to their territories. Though multiple goby species can be kept in larger tanks, it’s usually only recommended for much larger systems with a steady food supply and intricate rockwork.

Otherwise, mandarin gobies can be kept with clownfish, tangs, wrasses, and other common reef fish species as well as most invertebrates. However, these fish will not do well in aquariums with higher flow, like small polyp stony (SPS) coral systems that need lots of water flow. Excessive flow makes hunting difficult and might make them stay hidden within the rockwork.

As these fish typically stay towards the bottom of the tank though, they usually don’t irritate too many corals by floating over them.

What Do They Eat?

This is where mandarin gobies get difficult. Up to this point, mandarin goby care has been straightforward, though they’re unlike any other reef fish you might have kept before.

When looking at a mandarin goby, you realize just how small their mouth really is. These picky eaters have incredibly small mouths fit for eating one main invertebrate: copepods.

What Are Copepods?

When hobbyists refer to saltwater rock as being ‘live’, they mean it in a few ways. One of the most obvious ways is understanding that it houses microscopic beneficial bacteria that keep aquarium systems stable. Even more obvious than that, are the many macroscopic invertebrates and organisms that also make rock come alive.

In this group of living macroscopic organisms are copepods. Copepods are a type of aquatic crustacean found in both freshwater and saltwater ecosystems. There are many different types of copepod all with different roles within the natural food web. But in the marine aquarium, they are regarded as members of the cleanup crew and are a key diet item for some species.

Copepods are very small even though they are macroscopic. They can be very difficult to find in the aquarium, but they can sometimes be observed on the side of the glass, especially when a light is shone at night. The most recognizable feature about them is their two antennae that run perpendicular to their clear or white body.

In general, these animals are scavengers and help clean up microscopic waste. In return, they serve as food for some of our favorite challenging marine fish, like the mandarin goby.

Feeding Instructions

The most ideal way to feed your mandarin goby is by having a fully established and mature reef tank with a healthy population of copepods that will never expire and replenish itself. Even for the most advanced hobbyists, a self-sustainable copepod population within the main display is practically impossible.

Mandarin gobies are always searching for food and it’s rare that a copepod population will be able to replace itself at the rate at which it’s being eaten. The problem is that some mandarin gobies will only accept live copepods and reject all other foods.

In cases like this, the best way to keep your mandarin goby fed is by setting up another tank to grow and culture copepods. This setup doesn’t need to be elaborate, just enough to always have a steady population of copepods on hand to keep your goby fed.

Setting Up A Copepod Culture Tank

A copepod culture tank can be made with a 5 to 10-gallon spare aquarium or container. Most hobbyists have found fast-reproducing species, like Tigriopus and Tisbe sp., to be the most effective for keeping mandarin gobies happy. It’s also possible to start with a mix of copepod species.

This spare aquarium should be seeded with copepods and raised to a water temperature of about 75°F (24°C) for optimal reproduction rates. There should be some water movement throughout the aquarium from a small sponge filter. In order to keep salinity stable, freshwater top-offs may be necessary every couple of weeks.

Otherwise, there is no additional maintenance. In fact, you want to get the aquarium as dirty as possible so that the copepods have something to eat, like the algae that naturally grows on the sides of the aquarium.

Another alternative is setting up a refugium underneath the main display. Not only will a refugium increase nutrient transportation for your overall system, but it’s a safe place for copepods to live and naturally refill the main display reef tank.

However, refugiums give less control over manually dosing copepods and having an idea of the overall population available within the system at any given time.

How Do You Know If This Fish Is Starving?

The most common cause of death among mandarin gobies is starvation. These fish can quickly devour large populations of copepods overnight. If you see your fish searching for food but not picking at the rock, there might not be anything there to pick at and it might be time to replenish.

This is a very common mistake among beginner hobbyists as their reef tank is not mature enough and copepod populations run out within a few days of adding the fish. The only way to know how much your goby is eating is by constantly observing the behavior of your fish and seeing how many copepods are present at any given time. This can be done by shining a light into the aquarium at night and seeing how many copepods are present for a rough estimate.

In addition to having a healthy population of copepods, you can supplement feedings with live brine shrimp and mysis shrimp. Some mandarin gobies will take frozen food alternatives to both of these, but they will usually prefer live foods most. This diet can get to be incredibly expensive and difficult to maintain.

Some lucky hobbyists have had mandarin gobies that would take regular flakes and pellets, but this is very rare.

Lastly, make sure that your fish is always vibrant in color and has a plump abdomen. A starving mandarin will have dull colors, a skinny body, and an overall lethargic demeanor.

Reality Of Keeping A Mandarin Goby

Here’s the honest picture. Daily life with a mandarin goby is mostly about watching and worrying. You’re watching whether the fish is actively hunting vs. drifting. You’re watching whether its belly looks full or pinched. You’re counting pods on the glass at night.

When things are working right, these fish are mesmerizing. They hop and glide along the rockwork with a unique movement pattern that no other reef fish replicates. Their colors are genuinely unmatched in freshwater or saltwater fishkeeping. When you see a healthy, well-fed mandarin goby in full color actively hunting across a thriving reef, you understand why people do the work to keep them.

When things are going wrong, it happens quietly and quickly. By the time the fish looks visibly thin or lethargic, you’re often already in crisis. The lesson experienced hobbyists learn: check on pod supply proactively, not reactively.

Should You Get A Mandarin Goby?

Good Fit If:

• Your reef has been established for 12 months or more with a visibly thriving copepod population
• You have a refugium or dedicated pod culture tank running
• You have at least 30 gallons (113 liters) with complex live rockwork
• You can observe the fish daily and adjust feeding as needed
• You’ve kept other demanding reef species successfully

Avoid If:

• Your tank is under a year old
• You don’t have a refugium or pod culture system in place
• You’re a beginner to saltwater aquariums
• You travel frequently or can’t monitor the fish daily
• You can’t get the fish to eat before purchasing it

Where To Buy

Always buy mandarin gobies from sellers who can confirm they are eating before shipping or sale. A mandarin that arrives already declining from starvation is nearly impossible to save.

• Flip Aquatics – Quality marine livestock with good handling practices
• Dan’s Fish – Reliable source for saltwater fish online

Final Thoughts

Mandarin gobies are one of the hardest fish that can be kept in the aquarium setting. They don’t actually require much in the way of tank size, water parameters, or territorial needs, but their nearly exclusive diet of live copepods makes them a huge challenge for keeping fed.

These are one of the most colorful gobies available, but their beautiful colors take time, preparation, and determination to maintain. These fish are not for every system even if you think you have everything they need to thrive. Build the pod infrastructure first. Then get the fish.

Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide — your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.