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  • Six Line Wrasse Care Guide: The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It)

    Six Line Wrasse Care Guide: The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It)

    The Six Line Wrasse is a pest controller that becomes a pest itself. It eats flatworms and bristleworms, which is great. It also terrorizes peaceful tankmates once it establishes territory.

    Add the six line wrasse last. If you add it first, nothing peaceful survives after.

    Add the six line wrasse last. If you add it first, nothing peaceful survives after.

    Table of Contents

    The Six Line Wrasse is one of the most popular saltwater fish for a reason, but popularity does not mean easy. This fish has specific requirements that reef store employees rarely explain. After 25 years of reef keeping, I know what separates a healthy specimen from a slow decline.

    Saltwater fish do not forgive mistakes the way freshwater fish do.

    Saltwater fish require stable parameters, quality food, and a mature tank. The startup cost and ongoing maintenance are significantly higher than freshwater.

    In saltwater, the tank runs on stability. Every shortcut you take shows up weeks later as a problem.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Six Line Wrasse The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It)

    The most common mistake I see with six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Six Line Wrasse The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters.

    The Reality of Keeping Six Line Wrasse

    A mature tank is mandatory. Most saltwater fish need a tank that has been running and stable for at least 3 to 6 months. New tanks have unstable parameters that stress saltwater fish far more than freshwater species.

    Diet is not just flake food. Many saltwater fish need frozen mysis, brine shrimp, or specialty foods to thrive. A pellet-only diet leads to malnutrition, faded colors, and immune suppression. Variety is not optional.

    Quarantine is essential. Marine ich and velvet are common in newly purchased saltwater fish. A proper quarantine tank before adding fish to your display tank prevents devastating disease outbreaks.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Skipping quarantine and adding a new saltwater fish directly to the display tank. One infected fish introduces marine ich to your entire system. Treatment in a reef tank is nearly impossible because copper kills corals and invertebrates.

    Expert Take

    Quarantine every new fish for 4 to 6 weeks before adding it to your display. I have never met a serious reefer who regretted quarantining. I have met dozens who regretted skipping it.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are Six Line Wrasses aggressive?

    Six Line Wrasses can become territorial and aggressive, especially toward other small, similarly shaped fish. They are fine in larger tanks with plenty of rockwork and hiding spots. Adding them as one of the last fish to the tank can help reduce territorial behavior.

    Are Six Line Wrasses reef safe?

    Yes, Six Line Wrasses are reef safe and will not bother corals. They actually benefit reef tanks by eating flatworms, pyramidellid snails, and other small pests. They are one of the most useful pest-control fish available for reef aquariums.

    How big do Six Line Wrasses get?

    Six Line Wrasses reach about 3 inches in length at full maturity. Their compact size makes them suitable for tanks as small as 30 gallons, though a larger tank helps manage their territorial tendencies.

    Will a Six Line Wrasse eat cleaner shrimp?

    Six Line Wrasses leave adult cleaner shrimp alone but may harass or eat very small shrimp. They are known to eat tiny ornamental shrimp and may pick at newly molted shrimp. Most keepers report no issues with established cleaner shrimp.

    What do Six Line Wrasses eat?

    Six Line Wrasses eat a variety of meaty foods including mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and finely chopped seafood. They also hunt small pests like flatworms and pyramidellid snails. Feed them two to three times daily for best health and coloring.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
    Common Names Six line wrasse and six stripe wrasse
    Family Labridae
    Origin Indo-Pacific and the Red Sea
    Diet Omnivore
    Colors Purplish-pink, blue, yellow, orange, green
    Care Level Easy
    Temperaturement Semi-aggressive to Aggressive
    Minimum Tank Size 40 Gallons
    Max Size 3 inches
    Temperature Range 76. 82 degrees F
    pH Range 8.0. 8.4
    Salinity 1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef Safe Yes

    Classification

    Order Perciformes
    Family Labridae
    Genus Pseudocheilinus
    Species P. Hexataenia (Bleeker, 1857)

    Origins And Habitat

    Six line wrasses are a widespread species found throughout the Red Sea and Indo-Pacific. More specifically, they is found in warm waters all the way from the west coast of southern African, up to the coasts of India, across to Japan, and down to Fiji; they is found near surrounding islands as well1.

    These attractive fish are found in shallow reefs no deeper than about 65 feet. They especially favor dense reefs with close-knit branched corals where they can easily hide and forage for small crustaceans.

    Though six line wrasses are not very social, they will be seen in mating pairs or loose shoals as they forage the reef for food.

    How Long Do They Live?

    There is no average lifespan for six line wrasses, but it’s safe to say that they have the possibility to live 10 years or more.

    In general, six line wrasses are incredibly hardy fish once established in the reef aquarium. There is some difficulty with stress from improper care or poor acclimation, but these fish do extremely well once settled in.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Six Line Wrasse in Reef Tank

    Six line wrasses are very colorful and active fish. They are also very small, staying under 3 inches when fully mature, which can make them appealing to hobbyists with nano tanks. As we’ll discuss later, even though this fish is small it is by no means an appropriate nano species.

    These fish have beautiful colors and patterns. They have a purplish-pink base color that will appear as dark red in different settings; the underbelly is the lightest portion of the body and can have a tan appearance against the bluish anal and ventral fins. In shape, the body is very aerodynamic with exact curvature for quick and efficient travel.

    Six line wrasses are named after the six alternating blue and orangey-yellow stripes along the sides of their body that run from behind the gill, onto the dorsal fin, and onto the caudal (tail) fin. The tail fin is green at the base and transition into yellow or become transparent. At the top of the base of the tail, there is also a black eyespot which is used to confuse predators.

    Six line wrasses also have very characteristic red eyes with two horizontal stripes at either side of the pupil.

    Hermaphroditism

    While six line wrasses have not been successfully bred on a large scale in the aquarium hobby, their reproductive habits and life stages have been closely studied.

    Like many other species of wrasse, the six line wrasse is a protogynous hermaphrodite. This means that the individual fish are born as females and transition into males as they mature in response to internal and external factors.

    This is very unlikely to happen in the aquarium setting which is a closed system without additional environmental factors.

    Tank Requirements

    There is a lot of debate surrounding six line wrasse tank and care requirements. For many years, they were eagerly shoved into small tanks due to their small size. However, over the past few years, hobbyists have agreed that they need a lot more space than was originally believed.

    Still, experienced keepers have had success keeping six line wrasses in 20 gallons. Other hobbyists find that 55 gallons is the bare minimum. We believe that a standard 40 gallon fish tank with intricate rockwork should be enough space for your six line wrasse to freely roam.

    As they heavily rely on the structure of reefs and corals in the wild, live rocks are a necessity for this species. It is also recommended to use a sand substrate as six line wrasses, like many other species of wrasse, will use the sandbed to hide if stressed. Some will even sleep in the sandbed, though this is a sign that something else is wrong in the tank.

    Otherwise, six line wrasses are incredibly hardy. They is a little tricky to acclimate and don’t do well with sudden changes in water parameters but will thrive once established. There is no special care or maintenance needed to make sure your six line wrasse does well once introduced into the aquarium.

    However, it is also a necessity to have a tight-fitting lid on the tank. Remember, these fish are aerodynamic and can easily jump out of small openings in the top of the aquarium. If you have a rimless aquarium, consider getting a mesh net to prevent your fish from jumping.

    Temperament

    https://youtu.be/3Ck-0ZQKLRY

    Not only are six line wrasses known for their activity levels, but they can also be very big bullies. There are a few benefits to having them in the tank though as they will act as a type of cleaner fish and will even control some pest populations (Video source).

    Six line wrasses are often the most active fish in any aquarium setup. They can quickly dash across the front of the reef tank or take their time maneuvering in and out of the rocks, looking for some microorganism to nibble on. No matter what they’re doing, they’re always moving.

    However, when they’re not looking for food they is bothering other fish. There are many stories from hobbyists who have had to trade in or give away their six line wrasse after a year of having them because they turn into a menace overnight. This is one of the risks you take when adding one of these fish to your aquarium!

    Six line wrasses are labeled as being semi-aggressive, though they’re either peaceful or aggressive with no in-between. The problem with these fish is that they is model citizens until they’re not. One day, they may start terrorizing other peaceful fish in the aquarium and they won’t stop; six line wrasses are very persistent at pestering other fish, which can quickly lead to weakened, sick, and dead tankmates.

    As mentioned before, many hobbyists end up giving their six line wrasses away as the aggression only gets worse with time. However, increasing feedings and providing more hiding places may help deter some aggression, though this is not guaranteed.

    If you’re looking for a fish that’s not as aggressive but still as colorful, then you may consider the eight line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia); note that these fish are considerably larger and can also be relatively aggressive. Other larger peaceful wrasses like the Yellow Coris do not exhibit this behavior, but may harass and eat shrimp.

    Are They Cleaner Fish?

    It has been said that six line wrasses can act as a cleaning species for other fish, though this isn’t often observed. In general, a cleaner shrimp is going to do a better job.

    Experienced keepers have seen their six line wrasse approach other fish and pick at parasites and other foreign bodies that is present. While some wrasses, like the bluestreak cleaner wrasse (Labroides dimidiatus), are known for having a mutualistic cleaning relationship with fish, this behavior is largely undocumented with six lines.

    If you find that your six line wrasse is picking at the sides of other fish in a friendly manner, then you may have a cleaner six line wrasse! Keep an eye out for if this turns into aggression and/or starts to bother the other fish.

    Pest Control

    Bristle Worm Upclose

    Though your wrasse might not be a natural cleaner, there is a good chance that it will control some pests in your saltwater aquarium. Six line wrasses are foragers and advantageous scavengers. They will happily eat any small invertebrates they come across as they swim in and out of the rocks.

    Some of the six line’s favorite quick snacks include flatworms and bristle worms. This is beneficial for hobbyists struggling with flatworm or nudibranch hitchhikers, like those commonly found on small polyp stony (SPS) corals. They can also help hobbyists who don’t enjoy the appearance of bristle worms, though these worms is some of the best cleanup crew members.

    At the same time, six line wrasses will eagerly eat any copepods they come across. Hobbyists work years to establish a healthy copepod population in their aquariums, especially if they have a finicky eater like the mandarin goby (Synchiropus splendidus). If this applies to your tank, you should not add a six line wrasse.

    It should also be said that six line wrasses will not eradicate a pest infestation. Though they will definitely help control populations, there are simply too many pests for one fish to eat. In addition, these fish should never be added to a tank simply to help with a pest problem!

    Are They Reef-Safe?

    Past their aggression and interesting behaviors, six line wrasses make a great reef-safe fish; of course, there will always be one individual that is not reef-safe from this sample, but in general, six line wrasses are reef-safe.

    In fact, these fish feel especially at home in between the branches of elaborate SPS colonies. In the wild, they use these branches for protection and this natural behavior will translate into the saltwater aquarium setting as well.

    Tankmates

    Purple Tang

    Six line wrasses are largely regarded as a community species fit for any fish only (FO), fish only with live rock (FOWLR), or reef setup. However, they shouldn’t be treated as just another community fish.

    In general, you want tankmates that can stand against your six line wrasse, either in terms of speed or aggression. Species like tangs, angelfish, and damsels, will be able to escape or hold their own against the tyranny of an aggressive six line wrasse.

    There are a few methods to increase the chances of compatibility among your tankmates.

    1. Add the six line wrasse last. Adding this species to the tank last leaves little room for a hierarchy to form among other fish and even less physical space for a large territory to be established.
    2. Acclimate slowly. In this case, we don’t mean acclimation in the sense of matching water parameters. Instead, use a glass or plastic container to slowly introduce your wrasse to the rest of the tankmates. Simply submerge or float this container with your wrasse inside for several days. This should get all fish familiarized with each other so there is less immediate aggression.
    3. Get a pair of six line wrasse. Pairs of wrasses are difficult to come by. This method only really works if you know with certainty that the two fish are already a mated pair. Experienced keepers have found that keeping six line wrasses in pairs completely diminishes aggression.

    Lastly, you want to stock your tank accordingly. There are definitely a few species you will want to avoid if you’re trying to eventually add a six line wrasse to the stock list.

    Can They Live With Clownfish?

    Whether or not six line wrasses can live with clownfish is completely up to the personality of the individual fish. I, personally, kept a six line wrasse with ocellaris clowns (Amphiprion ocellaris) and never had a problem. Other hobbyists have had their clownfish killed overnight.

    If you desperately want to keep your clownfish alive, then do not add a six line wrasse. There are also a few other species of clown that is able to tolerate possible aggression instead.

    Some varieties of maroon clown (Premnas biaculeatus) can grow to be very large, which could possibly intimidate the wrasse. Tomato clowns (Amphiprion frenatus) can also get to be very big and are one of the most aggressive species, making them a good candidate as a six line wrasse tankmate.

    Can They Live Together?

    Yes, experienced keepers have successfully kept pairs of six line wrasse together, though this is rare. In fact, pairs often help diffuse aggression.

    More importantly, though, wrasses of different species should not be kept with six lines. It is not unheard of for a six line wrasse to kill another, larger species of wrasse. The territories, body shapes, and behaviors can overlap too much and the six line may see the other fish as a threat.

    Of course, experienced keepers have had complete success keeping an assortment of wrasses together, though this is uncommon.

    What Do They Eat?

    Six line wrasses are very opportunistic feeders. On top of the many bristle worms, snails, and microorganisms they find among the rocks, they will readily eat fish flakes and pellets. They will also appreciate meaty foods like live, frozen, and freeze-dried options like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp as well. Blackworms are also a good option. For frozen foods, I highly recommend LRS foods.

    Freeze Dried Blackworms

    Will They Eat Peppermint Shrimp?

    While these fish gladly eat small invertebrates, they leave bigger snails, crabs, and shrimp alone. This includes peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) that are much larger than the very small mouth of the six line wrasse.

    Of course, if your fish is especially hungry, it might try to go after bigger prey and it’s not unheard of for them to eat snails and smaller shrimp. As long as you keep your fish fed and watch for signs of aggression, there should be no problems with keeping other invertebrates.

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate — Six-line wrasses are active and effective at pest control, but become aggressive once established. Add them last.

    Hard Rule: Add six-line wrasses last in the stocking order. Once established in a tank, they become territorial and will harass and injure fish added afterward.

    Is the Six Line Wrasse The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It) Right for You?

    Before you add a six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Six Line Wrasse The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    Avoid If:

    • You plan to add new fish after the six-line is established – introductions become very difficult
    • You keep small, docile fish like firefish, small gobies, or seahorses they may bully
    • Your tank is under 30 gallons (114 L) – they need open swimming space and territory
    • You want multiple wrasse species together without careful species selection

    How the Six Line Wrasse The Popular Reef Fish With a Reputation (and How to Manage It) Compares to Similar Species

    Want a hardy first saltwater fish? Get clownfish. Want more personality? Get a six-line wrasse. Want a showstopper? This fish is worth the effort if your tank is ready.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the six line wrasse the popular reef fish with a reputation (and how to manage it) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Six line wrasse have been misunderstood for a very long time. Just recently, hobbyists have come to understand their true needs and aggression levels. Though these fish are relatively peaceful and reef-safe, they definitely have the capability of attacking and killing other fish in the tank.

    Keeping aggression in mind, these popular saltwater aquarium fish bring color to the home display like no other and are exceptionally hardy once established in the tank.

  • Cleaner Shrimp Care Guide: The Reef Tank’s Most Fascinating Cleanup Crew Member

    Cleaner Shrimp Care Guide: The Reef Tank’s Most Fascinating Cleanup Crew Member

    Cleaner Shrimp actively remove parasites from fish. This is not decorative behavior. It is functional and it works.

    A cleaner shrimp is not decoration. It is the closest thing to a doctor your fish have.

    A cleaner shrimp is not decoration. It is the closest thing to a doctor your fish have.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Cleaner Shrimp

    A shrimp tank is a constant show of activity. Shrimp graze nonstop, picking at every surface with their tiny legs. They crawl over plants, substrate, and even each other. The movement never stops.

    Molting is both fascinating and nerve-wracking. You will find translucent shed exoskeletons and panic thinking a shrimp died. It did not. But failed molts, where a shrimp gets stuck in its old shell, are always a risk.

    Berried females carrying eggs under their tails are a highlight. You watch the eggs develop over two to three weeks, then suddenly dozens of tiny baby shrimp appear on your moss and plants.

    Shrimp are escape artists during water changes. They jump into buckets, climb up siphon tubes, and end up in places you never expected. Always check your equipment and waste water for hitchhikers.

    Table of Contents

    The Cleaner Shrimp is one of the most rewarding invertebrates in the hobby, but it is also one of the most sensitive. Water parameters matter more here than with almost any fish. After keeping shrimp colonies for years, I have learned exactly what makes or breaks a thriving colony.

    One parameter swing and an entire colony dies overnight. That is the reality of keeping Cleaner Shrimp.

    A Cleaner Shrimp colony demands stable parameters every single day. One slip and you start over. This is a commitment to precision, not just maintenance.

    Shrimp keeping is the most humbling branch of the aquarium hobby. The water does not care about your experience level.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Cleaner Shrimp The Reef Tank’s Most Fascinating Cleanup Crew Member

    Guides often lump the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member in with fish care, but invertebrates have completely different sensitivities. Copper-based medications, for instance, are lethal. That’s something every keeper needs to know before adding any treatment to the tank. Acclimation is another area where most guides fall short. A quick float and dump can kill inverts. Drip acclimation over 45 to 60 minutes is the minimum I’d recommend. The water parameter requirements are also stricter than most guides suggest. In my 25+ years in the hobby, I’ve learned that stability beats perfection every time, but with inverts, even small swings can cause problems.

    The Reality of Keeping Cleaner Shrimp

    Water parameters rule everything. Shrimp are more sensitive to water chemistry than any fish in your tank. Ammonia, nitrite, and sudden pH swings kill shrimp instantly. A cycled, stable tank is absolutely mandatory before adding your first shrimp.

    Copper is lethal. Many fish medications contain copper. Even trace amounts from pipes, fertilizers, or treatments will wipe out an entire shrimp colony. Read every label before adding anything to a shrimp tank.

    Molting problems are the most common killer. Shrimp need consistent mineral content to molt successfully. Unstable GH and KH levels cause failed molts, which are fatal. Remineralized RO water gives you the most control.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Adding shrimp to an uncycled tank or a tank that was recently medicated. Both scenarios kill shrimp within days. The tank needs to be fully cycled and medication-free for at least two weeks before shrimp go in.

    Expert Take

    Drip acclimation is not a suggestion. It is mandatory. Every shrimp I have lost in 25 years died because I rushed the acclimation or ignored a parameter difference.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How many cleaner shrimp can you keep together?

    You can keep multiple cleaner shrimp together without issues, as they are peaceful toward their own kind. A pair or small group works well. They will often establish cleaning stations together and may even form mated pairs in the aquarium.

    Will cleaner shrimp clean fish in an aquarium?

    Yes, cleaner shrimp will set up cleaning stations and actively clean parasites and dead tissue from fish. You will often see fish line up near the shrimp, and the shrimp will climb on the fish to pick off parasites. This behavior is one of the most fascinating things to watch in a reef tank.

    Are cleaner shrimp reef safe?

    Cleaner shrimp are completely reef safe and will not harm corals or other invertebrates. They are one of the safest additions to any reef tank. They spend their time scavenging for food, cleaning fish, and picking through the rockwork.

    How long do cleaner shrimp live?

    Cleaner shrimp live 2 to 3 years in a well-maintained reef tank. They molt regularly as they grow, and you may find their exoskeletons around the tank. Leave the molted shells in the tank, as other inhabitants will consume them for calcium.

    Can cleaner shrimp live with other shrimp species?

    Yes, cleaner shrimp coexist peacefully with fire shrimp, peppermint shrimp, and other ornamental shrimp species. Avoid housing them with large predatory fish or aggressive crabs that might view them as food.

    A Brief Overview of Cleaner Shrimp

    Scientific Name Lysmata amboinensis
    Common Names Cleaner shrimp, skunk cleaner shrimp, scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp, red skunk cleaner shrimp, and Pacific cleaner shrimp
    Family Hippolytidae
    Origin Indo-Pacific and the Red Sea
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Temperaturement Peaceful
    Minimum Tank Size 10 Gallons 
    Max Size 2 – 3 inches with very long antennae
    Temperature Range 76 – 82 degrees F
    pH Range 8.0 – 8.4
    Salinity 1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef Safe Yes
    Available As Tank Bred Rare
    Filtration/Water Flow Low
    Water Type Saltwater
    Breeding Egg-layer
    Difficulty to Breed Difficult to breed
    Compatibility Species-only tank or community tank 

    Classification

    Phylum Arthropoda
    Class Malacostraca
    Order Decapoda
    Family Lysmatidae
    Genus Lysmata
    Species L. Amboinensis (De Man, 1888)

    Origins And Habitat

    As one of their common names suggests, the Pacific cleaner shrimp is found throughout the Pacific Ocean, more specifically in the Indo-Pacific around Indonesia and Australia. Some populations have also been observed in the Red Sea and have some variation in appearance.

    There, these invertebrates play an important role in shallow reef ecosystems. They is found hiding in the cracks and crevices of the rockwork all the way from 16 to 131 feet in depth. As we’ll discuss more later, these saltwater shrimp set up cleaning stations where fish knowingly travel to get cleaned1.

    Interestingly, cleaner shrimp are born as males but transition into hermaphrodites as they mature. This is known as protandric simultaneous hermaphroditism and is unique to the Lysmata genus as well as a few other decapods.

    On the reef, cleaner shrimp will commonly be seen in pairs but are relatively solitary creatures. They will also form pairs in the aquarium and breeding them is relatively straightforward. However, raising the fry after the eggs hatch is incredibly difficult. This makes coming across tank-raised cleaner shrimp very rare or even nonexistent.

    Why Are They Called So?

    Cleaner shrimp are very aptly named after their mutualistic relationship with fish. These invertebrates set up service stations on the reef where they wait for both predatory and nonpredatory fish to swim by to be cleaned. As the fish floats near the rock, the shrimp picks at the sides and gills of the fish–sometimes even venturing inside the mouth–to clean parasites, dead tissue, mucus, and other microorganisms.

    In both the wild and in the reef aquarium, these shrimp have a unique habit of rocking their legs side to side. Studies have found that this behavior increases when predatory fish are present, possibly signaling their beneficial intentions and asking them to not be eaten.

    This study also shows that shrimp are much less likely to clean when in the presence of predatory species and unideal cleaning conditions than when servicing nonpredatory fish in a comfortable environment.

    Cleaners vs. Fires

    Fire Shrimp

    When talking about cleaner shrimp, in general, hobbyists are referring to Lysmata amboinensis. However, fire shrimp (Lysmata debelius), also known as blood shrimp and scarlet cleaner shrimp (pictured above), are also considered as a type of cleaner shrimp.

    In comparison, fire shrimp are often a lot less reliable at cleaning than true cleaner shrimp. These bright red invertebrates are great at bringing color to the home aquarium, but they fail to set up true cleaning stations and often stay hidden in the rockwork instead. On top of that, many hobbyists have experienced their fire shrimp going after and killing less active invertebrates, including cleaner shrimp.

    There are some benefits to having a fire shrimp, though. For one, their intense color is unparalleled. Though they might stay hidden a better majority of the time, their bright red coloration does not go missed.

    In addition, they have been known to eat small pest anemones, like Aiptasia. However, if you’re dealing with an extensive Aiptasia problem, then there are much better shrimp options to choose from, like peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni), which form hunting groups that specifically prey on those anemones.

    Though you may get lucky and have an especially Aiptasia-hungry fire shrimp!

    What Do They Look Like?

    What Does A Cleaner Shrimp Look Like

    Cleaner shrimp are a very simple-looking, yet appealing shrimp species. All cleaner shrimp will look the same, with red, white, and yellow coloration. There have been some observed variations between those collected from the Red Sea and Indo-Pacific individuals, but the difference is minimal.

    Cleaner shrimp are also known as scarlet skunk cleaner shrimp due to their colors. They have two brilliant red lines along their back with dark yellow legs. Against those red lines, they have a long white stripe reaching from the antennae to the top of the head and all the way to the telson (tail). On the tail itself, there are multiple white spots.

    This white line greatly resembles the signature patterns of a skunk, earning the skunk cleaner shrimp its name!

    As a decapod, cleaner shrimp have ten legs. Cleaner shrimp also have small pincers that help them pick off foreign objects from fish as well as any microorganisms that is living in the crevices of the rockwork.

    Tank Requirements

    Cleaner shrimp do not need much to thrive, though they will die for apparently no reason at all. On average, they only live for a few years.

    These shrimp are one of the larger shrimp species available in the saltwater aquarium, but one can still comfortably be kept in a 10 gallon aquarium; experienced keepers have kept them in 5 gallons, but those pico tanks should be kept for other smaller and more ornate species, like pistol shrimp (Alpheidae family).

    While cleaner shrimp won’t explore all a reef tank has to offer, they is very active within their own given territory. These shrimp set up stations for fish to get cleaned, often at the top or side of the rockwork. They’ll use these rocks as areas to sleep and to hide while molting as well. There, they will scavenge for food in and around the rocks and accommodate any fish that want to be cleaned.

    Cleaner shrimp do not require any special water parameters. However, like other invertebrates, they are extremely sensitive to traces of copper in the water as well as high nitrates. Contrary to popular belief though, invertebrates do need some traces of copper present in the water for healthy shell growth. Large amounts, like those found in some aquarium medications, will be deadly.

    Otherwise, cleaner shrimp are hardy and can withstand some minor deviations from ideal water conditions.

    Acclimation

    Perhaps even more important than correct water conditions is giving ample time to slowly acclimate your new shrimp to your tank. Though hardy once established, this shrimp species is very sensitive to large and sudden changes in water parameters.

    There are a few methods to guarantee that the transition from store to home aquarium is as safe as is for your new cleaner shrimp:

    1. Bring a cooler or insulated bag to carry home the shrimp from the store. This will keep your cleaner shrimp in the dark while preventing drastic water temperature fluctuations and ultimately reducing stress.
    2. Once at home, turn off the aquarium light and float the bag in the aquarium for about 15-20 minutes. This will give time for temperatures to match between the store water and the display water.
    3. For almost all invertebrates, it is best to drip acclimate. Empty the store water and shrimp into a bucket and attach a drip acclimator. If you do not have one available, simply tie a loose knot in a piece of airline tubing to slow the flow.
    4. Allow the water volume to double in the bucket. This takes about an hour, though you may continue acclimation for up to two hours for extra precaution.
    5. When enough time has passed, it’s time to transfer the shrimp into the tank. It is best to use your hand or a plastic container as their legs and antennae can get stuck in netting. Your shrimp will likely head straight to the back of the tank and find coverage under a rock. Over the next few days, your cleaner will start to return to normal and set up a cleaning station somewhere in the tank.

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    If your shrimp does happen to lose a leg or antennae during the process, don’t worry. Shrimp have the incredible ability to rejuvenate lost limbs when they molt. Though this is not ideal, they should be okay as long as water conditions are favorable!

    Temperament

    Many beginner hobbyists see cleaner shrimp and see other shrimp, like fire shrimp, and think that the two species will get along in the same tank. Though cleaner shrimp are very peaceful, they can actually be a little temperamental towards other related species.

    As mentioned before, cleaner shrimp set up very distinct territories. If another shrimp were to accidentally enter this territory, the cleaner shrimp would be very capable of defending itself. For this reason and for controlling bioload, multiple species of marine shrimp are not kept together unless it is a larger system.

    Molting

    As a crustacean, cleaner shrimp go through the molting process. This is when the shrimp sheds its exoskeleton in order to grow. This happens about every month or two and can make you believe that your shrimp is dead!

    When cleaner shrimp molt, they shed their exoskeleton in one complete piece. This empty shell looks exactly like the shrimp only lifeless, which leads many hobbyists to believe that the molt is actually a carcass. During this time, your shrimp is at its most vulnerable and will be hiding in the back of the tank.

    Make sure that your shrimp reappears after a few hours. Leave the molt in the tank as the shrimp will eat it and regain some calcium as well as other important nutrients. If you don’t see your shrimp after a few hours and you notice that bristle worms and other scavengers are starting to circle around it, then this might actually be your dead shrimp.

    Are They Reef Safe?

    Yes, cleaner shrimp are almost always reef safe; of course, there is always that rogue shrimp that will go off and consume a whole colony of zoanthids overnight., there is no cause for concern.

    The biggest concern with cleaner shrimp, though, is them swimming over and irritating corals. If your shrimp decides to set up its territory right next to a sensitive coral, then it could cause some indirect irritation. This is nothing to worry about though, and the coral should adapt over time.

    Tankmates

    In addition to being reef safe, these shrimp can also be kept with an assortment of tankmates. They do best in community saltwater settings with wrasses, clownfish, and tangs. Cleaner shrimp will even do well with fish that aren’t reef safe like, butterflyfish and small angelfish.

    As we mentioned earlier, though, they do service predators in the wild so those aren’t completely off the table either. Check out the video below by NatureFootage of a cleaner shrimp working on a Moray Eel!

    What Fish Eat Them?

    Many saltwater aquarium fish will gladly take the opportunity to munch on a shrimp. This includes obvious predators, like triggers, groupers, and puffers, though larger angels and wrasses might even try to nip at them.

    As cleaner fish have gotten more expensive over the past few years in the aquarium hobby, it’s not recommended to try keeping them with larger, more aggressive species. However, experienced keepers intentionally introduce cleaner shrimp into their tanks as a live food option. Not only do cleaner shrimp naturally increase predatory instincts, but their hard chitin shells help keep beaks and teeth trimmed.

    It is also important to note that on rare occasions, sea anemones have been known to catch and digest cleaner shrimp that may walk over their mouths.

    What Do They Eat?

    Cleaner shrimp are omnivores. While they get a lot of their required diet from picking parasites off of fish, this is not enough to sustain them. Luckily, they are not particularly picky about what they eat otherwise.

    For the most part, cleaner shrimp will gladly eat any pellet or flake foods that are added to the tank. They will even help dispose of any fish or invertebrates that might have died and gotten stuck under a rock or in the back of the tank.

    One thing cleaner shrimp won’t do though is treat an algae problem. Cleaner shrimp are sometimes lumped together with other cleanup crew members. While they are opportunistic feeders and largely scavengers, they won’t help contain algae or clean up fish waste. In fact, they’ll avoid setting up stations in algae-covered areas.

    Can They Treat Ich?

    Parasites contribute to cleaner shrimp diet to an extent. Though these invertebrates will definitely eat ich (cryptocaryon irritans) off of the sides and gills of fish, they shouldn’t be entirely depended on to treat the whole reef tank for an infestation.

    In short, there are simply way too many parasites to control by one shrimp. The cryptocaryon irritans life cycle is also pretty complex and shrimp won’t eat them at all stages, leaving them to reproduce freely and replace those that have already been eaten.

    This goes for other parasitic infestations as well, like marine velvet (Oodinium spp.); cleaner shrimp will eat those parasites, by they will by no means serve as a full treatment for those parasites.

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate. Cleaner shrimp are sensitive to copper, medications, and parameter swings. Beautiful and useful in the right marine setup.

    Hard Rule: Cleaner shrimp are highly sensitive to copper. Any copper-based medication used in the display tank (even at low doses) will kill them within hours.

    Is the Cleaner Shrimp The Reef Tank’s Most Fascinating Cleanup Crew Member Right for You?

    Before you add a cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • Your tank is fully cycled and stable. Invertebrates are more sensitive to water quality swings than most fish.
    • You’re not using copper-based medications. Copper is lethal to most invertebrates.
    • You can provide the specific diet this species needs. Not all inverts eat the same things.
    • Your tank mates won’t harass or eat the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member. Many fish see invertebrates as food.
    • You’re comfortable with drip acclimation. Inverts need slower transitions than fish.
    • Your water parameters are within range and, more importantly, consistent.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    Avoid If:

    • You routinely medicate your display tank – any copper treatment will kill cleaner shrimp
    • Your tank is under 20 gallons (76 L) with aggressive fish that will bully them
    • You keep triggers, large wrasses, or pufferfish that will eat shrimp
    • You cannot maintain stable calcium and alkalinity levels for long-term invertebrate health

    How the Cleaner Shrimp The Reef Tank’s Most Fascinating Cleanup Crew Member Compares to Similar Species

    Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the cleaner shrimp the reef tank’s most fascinating cleanup crew member needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    If you’re looking for something to fill your tank up with something other than a fish, then a cleaner shrimp is definitely something to consider. Though they’ve become reasonably more expensive over the past few years, their fascinating cleaning mutualism with fish is a behavior that can’t be seen with other invertebrates.

    These shrimp carry the bioload of a small fish and should not be considered a member of the cleanup crew. Otherwise, they are very forgiving of small fluctuations in water parameters as long as they are acclimated correctly!

    References

  • 15 Beautiful Types of Clownfish (With Pictures)

    15 Beautiful Types of Clownfish (With Pictures)

    Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    Clownfish are the entry point to the saltwater hobby for most people, and that’s a good thing. They’re hardy, adaptable, and genuinely interesting to watch. But there are things the hobby gets wrong about them constantly. First, not all clownfish are the same. The ocellaris and percula look nearly identical, but the percula has thicker black borders and brighter orange. Designer clownfish are not “genetically modified” as some people claim; they’re selectively bred, and tank-raised fish are almost always a better choice than wild-caught for any clownfish purchase. Second, the maroon clownfish is not a community fish. It’s aggressive and it will dominate your tank. A lot of hobbyists learn that one the hard way. And third, anemones are not required. Your tank-raised clownfish may never host one. That’s normal. Don’t stress over it.

    There are dozens of clownfish species and designer variants, and they are not all the same. Some are peaceful, some are aggressive, and some grow larger than most people expect.

    Not all clownfish are Nemo. Some are territorial bullies that will own your tank.

    Key Takeaways

    • There are 30 recognized clownfish species in the Amphiprioninae subfamily, with many more designer variants created through selective breeding.
    • Ocellaris and percula look nearly identical. The percula has thicker black borders, a darker orange, and slightly higher price. For a 10-gallon community reef, the difference is mostly cosmetic.
    • Tank-raised clownfish are superior in almost every way: healthier, better adapted to prepared foods, easier to acclimate, and not depleting wild reef populations.
    • Maroon clownfish are the most aggressive species in this family. A single maroon will dominate tanks under 55 gallons (208 L).
    • Anemones are optional. Many tank-raised clownfish never host one. That’s normal behavior, not a problem to fix.
    • Designer clownfish (black ice, DaVinci, Wyoming white, Picasso) are tank-raised, ethically produced, and perfectly healthy fish. They are selectively bred color morphs, not genetically modified.
    • Clownfish are sequential hermaphrodites. All start as males. The dominant fish becomes female and is always the largest in the pair.

    Introduction to Clownfish

    Clownfish belong to the Amphiprioninae subfamily within the family Pomacentridae. There are 30 recognized species and one genus (Premnas) reserved for the maroon clownfish. The most commonly seen in the aquarium trade are the ocellaris, percula, tomato, clarkii, maroon, and pink skunk. Designer variants extend that list significantly with selectively bred color morphs that have become a major segment of the captive-bred marine fish market.

    All clownfish are sequential hermaphrodites. They’re born male. The dominant individual in a group becomes female. That female is always the largest fish in the pair, which is why the female in an established pair visibly outgrows her mate over time. If the female is removed from the tank, the dominant male will transition to female. This biology is what made the movie premise work: in a natural group, the death of the female would have resulted in the largest male becoming female, not a search for a new mate.

    The relationship with anemones is one of the most misunderstood aspects of clownfish keeping. Clownfish evolved alongside anemones and benefit from their protection. But many tank-raised clownfish have never encountered an anemone and may ignore one completely, or host unusual substitute objects like powerhead intakes, wave makers, or even duncan coral. Don’t force the relationship. If it happens, great. If it doesn’t, your clownfish is fine.

    Avoid These Combinations

    • Maroon clownfish in tanks under 55 gallons (208 L) with passive or small tank mates
    • Two different clownfish species in the same tank (they will fight)
    • Wild-caught clownfish when tank-raised are available (tank-raised are always the better choice)
    • Clownfish with anemones in new tanks (anemones need at minimum 6 months of tank maturity and stable parameters)
    • Tomato clownfish in community reefs with passive species like firefish or small gobies

    ASD Clownfish Selection Guide

    Best for Beginners and Community Reefs: Ocellaris, Percula. These are the most peaceful, most adaptable, and most widely available. Fit tanks as small as 10 gallons (38 L). Tank-raised specimens are widely available and should always be the first choice.

    Intermediate (More Personality, More Aggression): Clarkii, Pink Skunk, Saddleback. Hardy species with wider anemone compatibility. The clarkii is more assertive than ocellaris but manageable in a 30-gallon (114 L)+ system with appropriate tank mates.

    Advanced (Aggression Management Required): Maroon, Tomato. These species need more space, more careful stocking decisions, and experienced hobbyists who understand how to manage territorial fish. Not for community reef tanks with passive species.

    Types of Clownfish

    1. Ocellaris Clownfish (False Percula)

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion ocellaris
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
    • Tank Bred: Widely available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner

    Mark’s Pick

    The ocellaris is the one I recommend to nearly everyone starting in saltwater. It’s peaceful, hardy, works in small tanks, eats everything, and is one of the most widely tank-raised fish in the hobby. If you want your first clownfish to thrive, start here. The percula is equally good, but ocellaris tank-raised options are more abundant and often less expensive.

    The ocellaris is the most widely kept clownfish in the hobby and the species that most people picture when they think of clownfish: bright orange with three white bars outlined in black. Tank-raised specimens are available from almost every source and are reliably healthy, eating prepared foods from day one. They’re peaceful with most tank mates, compatible with a wide range of host anemones, and adaptable to FO, FOWLR, and full reef setups.

    At 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm) they fit a 10-gallon (38 L) as a pair. They establish a small territory and stay there, which makes them excellent for nano reefs. A bonded pair will breed readily in captivity, spawning on flat rock surfaces near their territory. The fry are difficult to raise but it’s a fascinating behavior to observe.

    2. True Percula Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion percula
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific, Great Barrier Reef, Melanesia
    • Min Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
    • Tank Bred: Widely available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner

    The true percula and the ocellaris are often sold interchangeably, and for most practical purposes in a home reef, they are. The distinguishing features are visible up close: the percula has thicker, more prominent black borders around its white bars and a slightly richer, darker orange body. The percula also has 10 dorsal fin spines versus 11 in the ocellaris, though you won’t be counting those in a fish store.

    Care requirements are essentially identical. The percula may host anemones slightly more readily than tank-raised ocellaris, and it tends to command a higher price. Both are excellent beginner fish. If you’re choosing between the two, let availability and price guide you rather than any meaningful difference in behavior or hardiness.

    3. Maroon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) females; males stay smaller
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L), 55 gallons (208 L) preferred
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Advanced

    The maroon is the largest and most aggressive clownfish species. It belongs to its own genus, Premnas, which separates it taxonomically from all other clownfish. The female grows to 6 inches (15 cm) and will dominate any tank she’s in. Maroon clownfish are not a community fish. Period. They will intimidate, harass, and sometimes kill other fish that venture near their territory, especially other clownfish species.

    In a dedicated system or a large tank with robust, similarly assertive tank mates, the maroon is stunning. The gold stripe morph is one of the most visually striking clownfish available. But buy one knowing exactly what it is. This fish defines the tank. Everything else gets stocked around it.

    4. Tomato Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion frenatus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

    The tomato clownfish is red-orange with a single white bar behind the head. Juveniles have two or three bars that fade as the fish matures. It’s one of the hardiest clownfish available and adapts to a wide range of water conditions. The downside is temperament. Tomato clownfish are significantly more aggressive than ocellaris or percula, particularly females. In a 30-gallon (114 L) community reef, a dominant female tomato will harass smaller or passive fish. Put it in a tank where other fish can hold their own.

    5. Clarkii Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion clarkii
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific, Persian Gulf
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The clarkii is one of the most anemone-compatible clownfish species, hosting a wider range of anemone species than almost any other. It’s a larger, more assertive fish than the ocellaris but not as aggressively territorial as the maroon or tomato. Coloration varies significantly: most are orange-yellow with three white bars, but regional color forms range from nearly all black to very pale yellow. Hardy and adaptable to most marine setups. A good choice for hobbyists who want a clownfish with a more noticeable presence in a larger reef.

    6. Pink Skunk Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion perideraion
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

    The pink skunk has a distinctive pale pink-peach coloration with a single white stripe running along the dorsal ridge rather than full bars. It’s one of the more peaceful clownfish species and less commonly seen in stores than ocellaris or percula. It pairs well with Heteractis magnifica anemones in reef setups. In a community tank with other peaceful fish, the pink skunk is an excellent choice. Its color is more subtle than the standard orange-white clownfish pattern, which some reefers appreciate for its uniqueness.

    7. Saddleback Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion polymnus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available in limited quantities
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The saddleback gets its name from the distinctive white marking that sits like a saddle across the back portion of its dark body. It’s less commonly available than other species but is hardy and adaptable when sourced from a quality supplier. The saddleback is more associated with bubble-tip anemones and Stichodactyla anemones in the wild. It’s moderately aggressive, between the peaceful ocellaris and the assertive tomato. A good mid-range choice for experienced hobbyists who want something less commonly seen in home reefs.

    8. Ocellaris Color Morphs and Designer Clownfish

    • Parent Species: Amphiprion ocellaris
    • Size: Same as standard ocellaris, 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Tank Bred: Yes, exclusively
    • ASD Tier: Beginner (care requirements identical to standard ocellaris)

    Designer clownfish are selectively bred color morphs of the ocellaris (and occasionally percula). They are not wild fish, not genetically modified, and not inferior in health to standard specimens. They’re the result of breeding programs run by professional aquaculture facilities that select for specific color and pattern traits over multiple generations. Common designer variants include:

    • Picasso: Irregular, asymmetric white patterning. Highly variable, no two are identical.
    • Wyoming White: Almost entirely white with minimal orange, sometimes with faint color near the face.
    • Black Ice: Dark body with white patterns. The black coloration replaces the orange.
    • DaVinci: Complex, painterly white patterning across a standard orange base.
    • Platinum: Nearly all white with minimal orange, often confused with Wyoming White but from different breeding lines.
    • Snowflake: White bars spread and connect in irregular snowflake patterns. Common entry-level designer.

    Designer clownfish are always tank-raised, always ethically produced, and always a better choice than wild-caught from an environmental standpoint. Care requirements are identical to the standard ocellaris. They command a premium price, which reflects the breeding program costs and the uniqueness of individual pattern variation, not any difference in care demand.

    9. Fire Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
    • Size: 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Central and Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The fire clownfish is a rich, deep red-orange with a single white bar behind the head and dark coloration around the fins. Often confused with the tomato clownfish, the fire clownfish has a darker body and slightly different distribution range. It’s moderately aggressive, similar to the tomato. Best kept in a tank with fish of comparable assertiveness. It will host bubble-tip anemones readily in reef setups.

    10. Cinnamon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion melanopus
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Limited availability
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The cinnamon clownfish shares significant overlap with the fire clownfish in both appearance and taxonomy. It has a warm reddish-brown body with a single white head bar, black edges on the fins, and an aggressive territorial disposition. Not commonly available but worth seeking out for reefers who want something less frequently seen. Temperament is similar to the tomato and fire clownfish, requiring appropriate tank mates.

    11. Sebae Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion sebae
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Indian Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Rarely
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate to Advanced

    The sebae clownfish is a large, dark-bodied species with two white bars, a yellow tail, and orange highlights around the face. It’s less commonly available than other species and most specimens sold are wild-caught. Wild sebae clownfish have a mixed track record in captivity. They form natural partnerships with Stichodactyla mertensii anemones and can be aggressive in the aquarium. If available as a tank-raised specimen, worth considering for an experienced reefer with a large system. Wild-caught specimens require more careful acclimation and feeding patience.

    12. Gold Stripe Maroon Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Premnas biaculeatus
    • Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Advanced

    The gold stripe maroon is a color variant of the standard maroon clownfish where the white bars are replaced by bright yellow-gold stripes. It’s visually one of the most striking clownfish available. The aggression levels are identical to the standard maroon. This fish will dominate any tank it’s in. In a large system with appropriate tank mates, it’s a spectacular centerpiece fish. Don’t keep it in a community reef unless you’ve planned the stocking carefully around its territorial needs.

    13. Skunk Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion akallopisos
    • Size: 3 to 4 inches (7.5 to 10 cm)
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean, Western Pacific
    • Min Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
    • Tank Bred: Available
    • ASD Tier: Beginner to Intermediate

    The skunk clownfish is one of the most peaceful species in the family, more passive even than the ocellaris. It has a pale orange-peach body with a single dorsal stripe. It’s less commonly available in stores but is hardy and compatible with most peaceful reef tank mates. Well-suited to systems where a more low-key clownfish presence is preferred. It pairs readily with Heteractis magnifica anemones.

    14. Orange-Fin Anemonefish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion chrysopterus
    • Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Limited
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    One of the larger species in the genus, the orange-fin anemonefish has a dark body with two white bars and distinctive orange-yellow fins. It’s closely related to the clarkii and shares its wide anemone compatibility. Less aggressive than the maroon or tomato, more assertive than the ocellaris. Available periodically from quality marine suppliers.

    15. Barrier Reef Clownfish

    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion akindynos
    • Size: 3 to 5 inches (7.5 to 13 cm)
    • Origin: Western Pacific (Australia, Coral Sea)
    • Min Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
    • Tank Bred: Rarely available
    • ASD Tier: Intermediate

    The Barrier Reef clownfish looks similar to the clarkii but has a slightly different color pattern and distribution range concentrated around Australia’s reef systems. It’s one of the more rarely seen species in the trade. Hardy when obtained from a quality source, it’s a solid choice for experienced hobbyists who want a less common clownfish without the extreme care demands of some rarer species.

    Clownfish Comparison Table

    Species Size Min Tank Aggression Tank-Raised Difficulty
    Ocellaris3-4 in (7.5-10 cm)10 gal (38 L)LowWidely availableBeginner
    True Percula3-4 in (7.5-10 cm)10 gal (38 L)LowWidely availableBeginner
    Tomato3-5 in (7.5-13 cm)30 gal (114 L)HighAvailableIntermediate-Adv
    Maroon4-6 in (10-15 cm)55 gal (208 L)Very HighAvailableAdvanced
    Clarkii3-5 in (7.5-13 cm)30 gal (114 L)ModerateAvailableIntermediate
    Pink Skunk3-4 in (7.5-10 cm)20 gal (76 L)LowLimitedBeginner-Int
    Designer (Ocellaris morphs)3-4 in (7.5-10 cm)10 gal (38 L)LowYes (exclusively)Beginner
    Saddleback3-5 in (7.5-13 cm)30 gal (114 L)ModerateLimitedIntermediate
    Gold Stripe Maroon4-6 in (10-15 cm)55 gal (208 L)Very HighAvailableAdvanced

    Tank Requirements and Care

    Most clownfish species are hardy and adapt to a range of water conditions. They work in fish-only (FO), fish-only with live rock (FOWLR), and full reef setups. The minimum tank size for a pair of ocellaris or percula is 10 gallons (38 L), though a 20-gallon (76 L) gives more swimming room and easier water stability. Larger, more aggressive species like the maroon and tomato need 30 gallons (114 L) minimum, with 55 gallons (208 L) preferred.

    Water parameters should be kept at: temperature 74 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit (23 to 26 degrees Celsius), salinity 1.023 to 1.025 specific gravity, pH 8.1 to 8.4. Clownfish tolerate mild fluctuations better than most marine fish, which contributes to their reputation as beginner-friendly. That said, consistency is still the goal.

    Clownfish establish territory and don’t venture far from the area they claim. A pair will stay near their hosting spot (anemone, coral, powerhead, or other structure) and defend it against fish that get too close. This makes them predictable and easy to observe. Feeding time is one of the most entertaining parts of keeping clownfish. They learn to recognize feeding schedules and will come to the front of the glass in anticipation.

    FAQs

    What is the difference between ocellaris and percula clownfish?

    The percula has thicker black borders around its white bars and a slightly richer, darker orange body. It also has 10 dorsal fin spines versus 11 in the ocellaris. In a home reef, the practical difference is minimal. Both have similar care requirements and temperament. Price and availability often favor the ocellaris.

    Do clownfish need an anemone?

    No. Many tank-raised clownfish never host an anemone and live healthy, full lives without one. If you want to add an anemone, wait until your tank has been running for at least 6 months, parameters are completely stable, and you understand the anemone’s specific care requirements. Anemones are not beginner additions. The clownfish will be fine without one.

    Are designer clownfish healthy?

    Yes. Designer clownfish are tank-raised through selective breeding programs. They’re not genetically modified and not inferior in health to standard color variants. They can be slightly more expensive due to the breeding program costs and the uniqueness of individual patterns, but their care requirements, hardiness, and lifespan are identical to standard ocellaris.

    How long do clownfish live?

    In captivity, 3 to 5 years is typical but 10 or more years is possible with good care. They’re one of the more long-lived marine fish at their size, and tank-raised specimens tend to do better than wild-caught over the long term. Consistent water quality and appropriate diet are the biggest factors in longevity.

    Can I keep two different clownfish species together?

    Generally no. Different clownfish species will usually fight. Keep one species per tank. If you want two clownfish, buy a bonded pair of the same species or introduce two juveniles of the same species simultaneously so they can pair up naturally. Mixing species almost always ends in conflict.

    Wild-caught vs. tank-raised: which should I buy?

    Tank-raised, every time. Tank-raised clownfish are adapted to aquarium life, eating prepared foods from day one, healthier on arrival, less stressed by the captive environment, and not contributing to wild reef collection pressure. When tank-raised is available, there is no meaningful reason to choose wild-caught.

    Closing Thoughts

    Clownfish are one of the best entries into the saltwater hobby and for good reason. The ocellaris and percula are genuinely forgiving fish that will thrive in a well-maintained setup, stay in one spot so you always know where they are, and bring more personality to a 10-gallon (38 L) tank than most fish bring to tanks ten times that size.

    Buy tank-raised when you can. Know the aggression level of the species you’re choosing. Don’t stress over the anemone. And if you want something unique, designer clownfish are worth every penny of the premium when you see an exceptional Picasso or Black Ice specimen in person.

    For availability and quality sourcing, check Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both carry a range of clownfish species and designer variants and will tell you whether a specimen is eating before it ships.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Damselfish – Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    Damselfish – Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    After running reef tanks for over two decades, damselfish are sold as starter fish to cycle saltwater tanks. Then they grow up, become territorial nightmares, and nobody catches them in a reef full of rock.

    The damselfish is cheap, hardy, and aggressive enough to terrorize fish three times its size.

    Damsels are easy to add and nearly impossible to remove. Think about that before you buy one.

    Damselfish get a really bad rap in the saltwater aquarium hobby. They are highly aggressive, bite your hand if you put it in the tank, have been known to harass timid tank mates to death, and are a pain to remove if you have to take one out of your tank. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel.

    So why would anyway ever consider a damsel for their fish tank let alone a reef tank? Well they are several:

    • They are an extremely hardy marine fish
    • They will eat just about anything you feed them
    • They have an exclusive blue color that is difficult to find 
    • They are small and do not require a large tank
    • They are reef safe when introduced correctly

    Back in the day before fishless cycling was common practice, the Damselfish was the fish you would use to cycle a saltwater tank because they could tolerate levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates that would kill off many other saltwater fish. Of course, nowadays one should never consider cycling with damselfish.  However, they are extremely hardy in a tank and are a very forgiving fish for a novice.

    Damselfish will eat just about anything you feed them in the tank. They do not require a specialized diet and will do just fine with any food you buy them.

    Damselfish have a blue color that is very hard to find for a reef tank. Think about it for a second. How often have you thought about looking for a blue colored fish to compliment your coral reef tank setup?  Let’s think about likely candidates:

    • Blue Tang AKA “Dory” – Very large, susceptible to ich
    • Powder Blue Tang – Notoriously difficult to keep and best for experts
    • Mandarin Goby – Notoriously difficult to keep from starving to death and will devastate a micro-fauna population in a smaller tank
    • Large Angelfish – Not reef safe and get very large
    • Coral Beauty Angelfish – Hit or miss on reef safe; intermediate level fish
    • Blue Reef Chromis – The most suitable candidate, but get 5″ long and should be grouped

    Wow, that was pretty quick. So unless you have a large tank or pretty skilled at reefing already, your options are pretty limited for a blue fish.  

    Damsel fish - Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    Most Damsels stay very small. Only a few members get large and should be avoided for a community tank as they get very aggressive. Their compact size makes them attractive for smaller tanks, especially those under 75 gallons.

    Damselfish are reef safe, but have to be introduced in the correct manner. This means that you have to introduce them last and with the right tankmates, I’ll get into this in detail later in this article.

    So we have established the reasons why a Damselfish is a good candidate for your saltwater aquarium, but we have all heard the horror stories of their aggressive nature. Is there such thing as a sane Damselfish?  The answer is – YES!

    Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

    Most damselfish articles tell you to avoid the whole family. That misses the point. Chrysiptera damsels are genuinely different from the three-stripe damsels and domino damsels that give the group its reputation. After 25 years in the hobby and managing aquarium stores, the Chrysiptera species on this list are ones I have stocked and recommended repeatedly for reef tanks. They are not aggressive enough to be the classic damsel problem fish, and they are hardy enough to handle the conditions that challenge other reef species.

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner-Friendly (Chrysiptera species only)

    The Chrysiptera damsels covered in this guide are some of the hardiest and most beginner-accessible saltwater fish available. Hardy, reef-safe, and available as tank-bred. Not all damselfish are created equal, and these are the exceptions worth keeping.

    Introducing the Chrysiptera Damselfish Species

    Scientific Name Chrysipertera
    Common Name (Species) Damselfish
    Family Pomacentridae
    Origin Indo Pacific
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Active
    Lifespan to 10 years
    Temperment Semi-aggressive
    Tank Level All Areas
    Minimum Tank Size 30 Gallons
    Temperature Range 73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range 8.1 – 8.4
    Filtration/Flow Rate All
    Water Type Saltwater
    Breeding Egg-layers, Difficult to breed
    Compatibility Semi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks? Yes
    Ok, For Inverts? Mostly Yes

    These Damsels comes from the family pomacentridae and hail from the indo Pacific. There is a genus in the Damselfish family called Chrysiperta. They are just as pretty as other other Damsel relatives but far more peaceful. They will bring the lively nature and action of Damsels without the aggressiveness.

    I will break down 4 of the more colorful Chrysiperta Damsels that fit the exclusive Damsel blue that many hobbyist love:

    • Azure Damsel
    • Starck’s Damsel
    • Yellow-Tail Damsel
    • Springer’s Damsel

    Azure Damsel
    Azure – Tank Bred and tame

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    The Azure damselfish species is the most mild-mannered of the group. It has a wonderful disposition in the group and has rarely caused disruptions in aquariums. It is the best Damselfish to choose if you are considering one that is blue. In larger tanks, they have been kept in groups. It is as of the date of this post, the only Damselfish of the 4 that is available as tank bred.

    Starck's Damsel

    Starck’s – The Beauty of the Group

    Max Size – 4″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    The Starck is more aggressive than the Azure but still far less than many other Damsels. It has a brilliant blue body with a broad yellow band running along the top. It can almost pass as an Angelfish to a layperson’s eye. Unfortunately the Starck’s Damsel is a hard Damselfish to find available part of the year and commanding a price tag equivalent to Dwarf Angelfish like Flame Angels.

    Yellow Tail Damsel

    Yellow Tail – The “Dory” Substitute

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    This is the most aggressive of the four and has the most horror stories behind it. It’s on the list for two reasons. First, many of the stories I have seen have been involving timid saltwater fish or where the yellow tail was placed in first and established its territory. Both are incorrect ways on how to introduce a Damselfish. Second, the its yellow tail fin and color is often mistaken as a “Baby Dory” by children and with it’s hardiness can withstand a novice hobbyist or parent purchasing a “Dory” (AKA Blue Tang) for their children.

    I personally have recommend this marine fish to potential Blue Hippo Tang buyers along with a lot of education about the care and maintenance required to successfully keep saltwater fish. The suggestion was so common, that I actually was interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with this aquarium fish.

    Springer’s – The Coral Pest Slayer

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    Springer's Damsel

    Of all the damsels on this list, the Springer’s Damsel offers pest control abilities. This Indo Pacific fish is well known for wiping out flatworms in a reef tank, their ability to wipe out pests have been compared with Wrasses like Six-line and Malnanrus Wrasses. The great thing about a Springer’s damsel is they are just as docile as Azures so you can get a small pest control fish without the attitude of a Six-line Wrasse in a small system! In a smaller system they cannot be beat for pest control. Keep in mind though as they mature they will look at your hands as threats to their territory and will likely attack your hands!

    So I have outlined the four best Damselfish. Now let’s break down the best practices for adding a Damsel to your tank.

    Reality Check

    Even Chrysiptera damsels are still damsels. They are territorial, they will claim a cave or corner of the tank, and they do not appreciate fish that look similar to them being added afterward. The species on this list are significantly calmer than classic damsels, but they are not passive fish. They will hold territory, and they will assert themselves if the stocking order goes wrong or the tank is too sparse.

    Best Practices for Adding Them

    I’m going to break this done into 3 parts:

    • Introduce them last
    • Have other semi-aggressive fish in the tank
    • Have lots of rockwork

    Damselfish are often going to be the most aggressive marine fish you will add to your tank. Because of this, you need to introduce them last into your tank where territory has already been established by your other tankmates. This will prevent your damsel from becoming the alpha fish in your tank.

    Semi-aggressive fish need to be in the tank in order to be successful in the tank. If you have timid tank mates like firefish, damsels should be avoided. Here is a quick list of semi-aggressive fish that suit a damsel’s nature:

    • Tangs
    • Dwarf Angelfish
    • Clownfish
    • Dottybacks
    • Basslets like the Royal Gramma
    • Semi-Aggressive wrasses like Malnarus. Caution with flasher wrasses
    • Bottom Dwelling Gobies

    Rockwork is the third factor on our list. You are likely going to have a lot of rockwork if you have a reef aquarium so you will likely be okay. This is mostly a consideration if you have a fish-only setup.

    When selecting damselfish for your aquarium, you pretty much won’t go wrong with these guys if you’re looking for a community setup. Just make sure you have a tank that is suited for the species of fish you are getting, add them last, and pay attention to tankmates.

    Hard Rule

    Always add Chrysiptera damsels last. Adding them before other fish in an established tank creates a territory problem that is nearly impossible to fix without removing rockwork. Add them after your other fish are settled and you eliminate most of the aggression risk.

    Care Guide

    The damselfish on this list, with the exception of the Starcki Damsel, will grow to about 2-3 inches in length. The Starcki will be a bit bigger topping out at 4 inches. Give their more aggressive nature, it is best to keep them in a 30 gallon aquarium or larger with length being a major factor as damsels tend to claim an area of the tank as their own.

    Water temperature should remain at 73 to 81 Fahrenheit, which pH levels at 8.1 to 8.4 and salinity at 1.020 – 1.026. Open spaces are ideal for them as damsels are open swimmers. The rocks you keep in the tank should have plenty of hiding places to reduce aggression.

    Best Food For Them

    What makes damselfish great in saltwater tanks is that they tend to not be very picky eaters, but doesn’t mean that you should just feed the first fish food you find at the grocery store! Damselfish should be offered a complete diet. Let’s talk about the hierarchy of saltwater aquarium food.

    • Best – Fresh/Raw Food, Enriched Frozen Food
    • Better – Fried Dried + Nutrient Soaked Food
    • Good – Enriched Flake/Pellet Food

    The Best Frozen Food for Them – LRS Nano

    There are not many of us in this hobby who will go make fresh seafood for our marine fish. There are videos available on how to do this, but I’m going to assume it’s just not realistic for you to make your own. It’s a pretty smelly process! The next best option would be live black worms if you can somehow get it locally and grow a culture, but again your significant other may not be a fan of you keeping worms around the house or in the fridge ;-).

    So this brings us to frozen food. Without a doubt, LRS Nano frozen is the best frozen food you can get on the market. It is only available at your local fish store so if you are fortunate to have a store that carries it buy it today! The rest of the items are available online with Amazon (Affiliate Links Below) being the best way to get them quickly.

    The Best Freeze Died Food for Them – Fried Dried California Blackworms + Selcon

    Freeze Dried Blackworms

    California black worms have been praised by long-term reefers as a great source of nutrition and the most pickiest of fish will eat them. At least for the live black worms, but as I stated before live is tough to get and this is the next best thing you can get at a reasonable price. These freeze dried California black worms are ready to go for your Damselfish to eat 

    It is highly recommended to soak them in Selcon prior to feeding. The great thing about freeze dried food is they take vitamin soaks like Selcon very well so you know your fish are getting a vitamin rich diet!


    Selcon


    Selcon

    A vitamin enhancer that works great in freeze dried and frozen foods. A great choice to boost nutrition in brine shrimp, mysis, and blackworms


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    The Best Flake Food for Them – Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flake Food

    While you can make a very good case for pellet food, in our experience damselfish have an easier time eating flake food given their smaller mouths. Pellets are a more appropriate food for their large cousins, Clownfish. What makes Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes stand out is their food contains probiotics. The mix of the flake is also very comprehensive containing highly quality ingredients like squid, spirulina, plankton, krill, and mussel. The product is made in the USA and it’s highly palatable formula are great for finicky eaters and avoids the digestion/nutrition issue common with low quality flake foods.

    Contains Probiotics!


    Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes


    Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes

    One of the better flake foods available for marine fish today


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    Buy On Chewy

    Who Grows Most With This Fish

    Chrysiptera damsels suit beginner and intermediate saltwater keepers who want a hardy, colorful fish that can handle the conditions of a new or maturing reef tank. If you want a reef-safe fish that is tank-bred, affordable, and can coexist with corals and most common saltwater community fish, these are among the best options available. Experienced reefers who want to fill a small territory role without the aggression of a larger damsel species also find these a practical choice.

    Is a Chrysiptera Damsel Right for You?

    Good Fit If:

    • You want a hardy, reef-safe damsel that is significantly calmer than the classic problem species
    • You are stocking a new reef and want a fish that can handle the process while being easy to keep long-term
    • You can add the damsel last, after all other fish are established
    • Your tank is 30 gallons or larger with established rockwork and territory options

    Avoid If:

    • You plan to add the damsel first and stock other fish around it (territory conflict guaranteed)
    • You already have another damsel species in the tank (they will fight)
    • You want a fish that is completely passive in a community reef (all damsels will hold territory)

    Closing Thoughts

    Not all damsels are the same fish. The Chrysiptera species on this list are the exceptions in a family known for aggression, and they deserve to be treated that way. Add them last, choose the right tank mates, and these small, colorful fish will hold their place in a reef tank for years without creating the problems that made damsels infamous in the first place.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    The Blue Hippo Tang needs a tank of 125 gallons or larger. It is also one of the most ich-prone fish in the marine hobby.

    If you skip quarantine with a blue tang, you are introducing ich to your display tank. It is not a question of if. It is when.

    Saltwater fish do not forgive mistakes the way freshwater fish do.

    Saltwater fish require stable parameters, quality food, and a mature tank. The startup cost and ongoing maintenance are significantly higher than freshwater.

    In saltwater, the tank runs on stability. Every shortcut you take shows up weeks later as a problem.

    There are so many opportunities to teach children – biological, chemistry, trade skills from DIY projects, plumbing, software, etc. I’m going a little bit off topic in my excitement though – I promise you I will follow up in a later post about the benefits and activities you can work on with your family when you have an aquarium.  

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Blue Hippo Tang

    The Blue Hippo Tang is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

    Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Blue Hippo Tang learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

    Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

    Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

    The Reality of Keeping Blue Hippo Tang

    A mature tank is mandatory. Most saltwater fish need a tank that has been running and stable for at least 3 to 6 months. New tanks have unstable parameters that stress saltwater fish far more than freshwater species.

    Diet is not just flake food. Many saltwater fish need frozen mysis, brine shrimp, or specialty foods to thrive. A pellet-only diet leads to malnutrition, faded colors, and immune suppression. Variety is not optional.

    Quarantine is essential. Marine ich and velvet are common in newly purchased saltwater fish. A proper quarantine tank before adding fish to your display tank prevents devastating disease outbreaks.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Skipping quarantine and adding a new saltwater fish directly to the display tank. One infected fish introduces marine ich to your entire system. Treatment in a reef tank is nearly impossible because copper kills corals and invertebrates.

    Expert Take

    Quarantine every new fish for 4 to 6 weeks before adding it to your display. I have never met a serious reefer who regretted quarantining. I have met dozens who regretted skipping it.

    So What Is A Dory Fish?

    Scientific NameParacanthurus hepatus
    Common Name (Species)Blue Hippo Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Tang, Dory Fish, Pacific Blue Tang, Pacific Regal Blue Tang, Blue Tang Fish
    FamilyAcanthuridae
    OriginIndo Pacific
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate to Difficult
    ActivityActive
    LifespanUp to 20 years
    TempermentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size120 Gallons
    Temperature Range73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range8.1. 8.4
    Filtration/Flow RateAll
    Water TypeSaltwater
    BreedingDifficult – tank bred available
    CompatibilitySemi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks?Yes
    Ok, For Inverts?Mostly Yes

    The Dory Fish is known by various names including Blue Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Blue Surgeonfish, Indo-Pacific Blue Tang or by its scientific name Paracanthurus hepatus. These tangs are found in the Indo-Pacific from East Africa to Japan and swim at depths of 30 to 130 feet.  

    The terms Tang and Suregonfish actually refer to the extremely sharp spines on each side of the fish’s tail, which are said to resemble surgeon’s scalpels. These spines remain flat against the fish’s body and extend only when they are threatened or alarmed. 

    Finding Dory

    They are recognized for their vibrant coloring, yellow tail, and bold black markings. They are capable of adjusting their color intensity of their hue from light blue to deep purple. These colors will often fad as the fish ages. 

    Adults average about 12 inches in length and is found living alone, in pairs, or in schools of 10-12. They are known to live as long as 30 years in the wild – which is longer than any cat or dog! Blue Hippo Tang is a very active fish. It will easily swim miles a day in the ocean looking for food and may move seasonally. They feed on algae and use their sharp teeth to rip algae off rocks and corals. Their diet is not only important for the tang fish itself, but also for the health of reefs as they prevent algae from overgrowing and suffocating corals. 

    Realistic Expectations of a Dory Fish (Blue Hippo Tang) in an Aquarium

    So we have learned that a blue hippo tang can grow to a foot long, can outlive your cat or dog, and swim miles every day. What does that mean in a salwater aquarium? After all, you likely have seen a small 1 inch blue hippo tang for sale at your local fish or chain store. Please do not let this fool you. A small 1 inch blue hippo tang will quickly outgrow a small aquarium and needs a needs a proper tank tank size for a long and healthy life.

    A Blue Hippo Tang (paracanthurus hepatus) needs a proper tank with plenty of space to move around because as we all know Dory just loves to keep swimming! So what does proper tank mean? Well, I’m going to be very honest with you. Dory is a large fish and therefore requires a very large tank with lots of swimming room.  So this means the following:

    • Minimum tank length – 60 inches
    • Minimum tank volume – 120 gallons
    • Recommended tank length – 72 inches
    • Recommended tank volume – 180 gallons

    I know these recommendations are going to be outside of many people’s budgets or wants in the home, but I would rather be honest and realistic about the requirements about the blue hippo tang. I have seen far too many local store happily sell a 1″ blue hippo tang to a new hobbyist with a small tank without thinking twice about the care and requirements.  I’m all about responsible aquarium keeping and want to ensure you are successful for the long-term.

    Doryfish
    Even Petco is starting to get on-board with notices about Dory care

    If getting a large tank is something not feasible for you, but you still want a Dory you are still in good shape because there are fish are would make an excellent alternative.

    Alternatives

    Want a hardy first saltwater fish? Get clownfish. Want more personality? Get a six-line wrasse. Want a showstopper? This fish is worth the effort if your tank is ready.

    The best example of a similar looking fish to a Dory or Blue Hippo Tang are yellow-tail damsels. I have been in the aquarium industry for many years and you would be surprised how often I would hear “Look – a baby Dory!” – from a child pointing at the yellow-tail damsel in a tank. In fact, my story was so interesting that I was actually interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with the Blue Hippo Tang and the yellow-tail damsel.  

    Yellow Tail Damsel

    Not only is the yellow-tail damsel much smaller than the blue tang, but it is also very hardy. In fact, many damsels from the Chysipetra genus would make good alternative with their vibrate blue and yellow colors. I actually wrote a blog post earlier about them that you can read about here. 

    There are also some fish among Nemo’s group of friends from the first movie that would make good additions to a saltwater aquarium – including the Gurgle the Royal Gamma and Nemo himself that I wrote about earlier in my Top 10 Saltwater Fish List. Even if you are going to get your own Dory, these fish make perfect tank-mates for them.

    Selection and Introduction

    If I have not scared you off in purchasing a regal blue tang, then I take it you know full well the requirements of keeping this fish so I will continue on. When selecting a blue hippo tang, it is best to purchase a tang at least 3 inches, not thin, actively feeding, and shows no physical signs of disease. The truth with the blue hippo tang is they are highly susceptible to parasites like ich and marine velvet as well as head and lateral line disease.

    I have seen far too many tank crashes where a blue hippo tang is added, they get ich, then the tank quickly crashes as the disease spreads.  Because of this, it is highly recommended that you quarantine a blue hippo tang before introducing them to your display tank. The quarantine period will help ensure that your fish is healthy before introducing them to your main tank. Outside of proper selection and quarantine, the main reason why these fish often get sick is lack of space (which I covered earlier) – and lack of nutrition.

    Nutritional Requirements

    The blue hippo tang is an omnivorous saltwater fish and providing them with a solid mix of meaty and green based foods is absolutely critical in keeping your tang healthy and happy. Seaweed probably the best green source you can feed your tang. One of the biggest secrets out there if you can get your tang to eat it is actually Nori sheets from your grocery store. They are way cheaper than the seaweed products that sellers like myself can get and you can pick them up locally.

    Please ensure that seaweed is the only ingredient and no salt is added. Romaine lettuce and spinach work as well, but there is some debate about this from purists in the reefing community that feel that greens of a marine origin are best. They also are not as nutritious as seaweed. 

    A feeding clip is incredible handy for feeding Tangs. These clips allow the blue hippo tang to naturally graze and keeps the seaweed from spreading around your tank. It may take some time for them to get used to eating this way, but once they get used to the clip it will be a feeding frenzy every time! Here is an example of a Palting from the ReefCentral forum feeding his tangs Nori from the grocery store: 

    For meaty foods, I would recommend LRS Foods. LRS foods are one of the finest saltwater fish foods in the world, used by top breeders in Europe and North America. You want to get top quality food for a blue tang as nutrition is such a critical aspect from keeping them disease food.

    Care Requirements

    A Blue Hippo Tang is a large saltwater fish that require quality water, filtration, and oxygenation. I would not recommend a hang-on back setup for tank with a Blue Hippo Tang. You absolutely have to go with a sump setup and quality protein skimmer and/or algae turf scrubber. The sump will provide you with additional tank volume, stability, and utility for added equipment like auto top offs and controllers which you will likely want to invest in order to ensure your aquarium is as stable as possible. Blue tangs live in environments with natural strong flow and lots or rocks so the flow and aquascaping of a mixed reef tank definitely suits them.

    They are compatible with most other aquarium fish, but be very careful with keeping more than one. Two blue tangs in a single reef tank will often show aggression except in very large tanks. They are also known for getting aggressive in smaller tanks, which is another reason I recommended a tank volume size of 180 gallons.

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are semi-aggressive, which means they will be territorial and harass more timid fish. You can curb aggression with a larger tank. They are also aggressive to other tangs of the same sub-species. If you are considering multiple tangs, consider a tang of a different sub-species too maximize your chances of success.

    What Do They Eat?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are omnivornes, but do better with greens in their diets. A diet with greens like nori, spirulina, and algae are healthy for a blue tang. They will also eat meaty foods like mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and black worms. A good frozen food to try is LRS Foods Herbivore Frenzy

    Are They Hardy?

    They are not as hardy as other tangs is. They are very susceptible to ich and other marine fish diseases. Tangs like the Scopas, Kole, and Tomini tang are better candidates for first time tang keepers.

    We are here to help you!

    I have gone over what is a Dory fish, recommended tank size, introduction, nutrition, care, and even alternative fish. Following these guidelines and tips in this post will help you succeed in keeping your very own Dory (or “baby dory”). If you have any additional questions, leave me a comment below. Myself and the team here are Aquarium Store Depot are happy to help! See you next time :).