Last Updated: May 16, 2026
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Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot
I’ve kept butterflyfish in my tanks over the years, Raccoon and Copperband specifically. They’re some of the most visually striking fish in the saltwater hobby. But I’ll be honest: I don’t keep them as often as I used to. They’re sensitive, most species are corallivores that will destroy a reef, and weaning them onto prepared foods is a genuine challenge that many hobbyists underestimate. Most butterflyfishes sold in fish stores die within six months, not from disease but from starvation and stress in systems that aren’t ready for them. If you’re going to keep a butterflyfish, know which species actually tolerate aquarium life. Klein’s butterfly is my top pick. It’s about as forgiving as this family gets. Everything else on this list requires honest assessment of your experience level before you spend the money.
I’ve kept butterflyfish in my tanks over the years. Raccoon and Copperbands specifically. And while they’re some of the most visually striking fish in the saltwater hobby, they’re genuinely not easy keepers. They’re sensitive, many species will pick at corals, and weaning them onto prepared foods is a real challenge. Honestly, I don’t keep them as often as I used to for those reasons. That said, if you’re set on one, there are species that hold up better than others in the home aquarium. Klein’s butterfly is my top recommendation. It’s about as forgiving as this family gets.
Key Takeaways
- Most butterflyfish are corallivores. If you have a reef tank, most of these species will eat your corals. Full stop.
- Many species die within months in captivity because they won’t accept prepared foods and slowly starve.
- The Copperband is one of the most popular and one of the hardest to feed. It should not be a beginner fish.
- Klein’s butterflyfish is the most adaptable species on this list and the safest recommendation for most hobbyists.
- Heniochus (bannerfin) is the closest thing to a reef-friendly butterfly, but even this species carries risks with soft corals and LPS.
- Butterflyfish belong in fish-only with live rock (FOWLR) systems or large, experienced reef tanks with hobbyists who know the risks.
- Buying a butterflyfish as your first or second saltwater fish is a mistake that will likely end badly for the fish.
Avoid Butterflyfish If…
- You have a reef tank with SPS, LPS, or soft corals and you’re buying anything other than Heniochus (and even then, with caution)
- You don’t have a mature system with stable parameters. New tanks kill these fish fast.
- You’re a beginner or intermediate reefer looking for a “showpiece fish.” This family will expose gaps in your husbandry quickly.
- You don’t have the time or resources to try multiple feeding strategies to get a stubborn specimen eating prepared foods
- You’re buying a Copperband as a pest control solution without a backup feeding plan if it won’t eat
The Hard Truth About Butterflyfish
There are around 130 butterflyfish species spanning 12 genera, and they are arguably the most beautiful family of fish in the marine hobby. They’re also among the most difficult to keep successfully. This combination creates a cycle of impulse purchases, declining fish, and frustrated hobbyists who blame themselves for something that was never going to work in their setup.
Most butterflyfish species are obligate corallivores in the wild. That means they eat coral. Not occasionally. It’s their primary diet. Put one of those species in a reef tank and you will watch it systematically destroy your corals while you struggle to find foods it will accept. Weaning a wild-caught corallivore onto prepared foods takes patience, the right techniques, and sometimes just doesn’t happen at all.
The species in the aquarium trade that survive long-term are the ones with more flexible diets. These are the species worth knowing. The rest are best left on the reef or in expert hands with very specific FOWLR setups designed around them.
ASD Butterflyfish Difficulty Tiers
Most Adaptable (Best for Experienced Hobbyists): Klein’s, Raccoon, Heniochus. These species accept prepared foods most readily, tolerate FOWLR setups well, and have the widest dietary flexibility.
Intermediate (Specialized Care Required): Longnose, Threadfin, Saddleback, Vagabond. Manageable with the right feeding strategy and mature system, but not forgiving of mistakes.
Avoid for Most Hobbyists: Copperband (beautiful but extremely difficult to feed in most systems), Chevron, Ornate, and all obligate corallivores. These species have very high mortality rates in captivity and belong in expert FOWLR systems only, if at all.
The 21 Types of Butterflyfish
For each species, I’ll cover the key stats and the honest reality of keeping it. Not just the scientific name and size, but whether it actually works in a home aquarium and what you’re getting into.
Before you buy: The biggest mistake I see is people buying butterflyfish for a reef tank. Most species will nip at corals, anemones, and other invertebrates. Even so-called “reef safe with caution” species are a real risk with LPS and soft corals. On top of that, many butterflyfish are notoriously sensitive and difficult to wean onto prepared foods. They’re beautiful fish, but they demand more care and the right system.
1. Heniochus (Bannerfin / Wimpelfish)

- Scientific Name: Heniochus acuminatus
- Common Name: Bannerfin Butterflyfish, Wimpelfish, Longfin Bannerfish
- Size: 8 to 10 inches (20 to 25 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 125 gallons (473 L)
- Tank Bred Available: Rarely
The Heniochus is the most adaptable member of the butterflyfish family and the closest thing to a reef-friendly option, with significant caveats. It accepts prepared foods more readily than most species. It will eat mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and even quality marine pellets once established. It can be kept in some reef tanks, but it may pick at soft corals and certain LPS over time. The larger the system and the more well-fed the fish, the lower that risk.
At up to 10 inches (25 cm) and needing 125 gallons (473 L) minimum, this is not a small-tank fish. Some species can be kept in pairs. If you’re set on a butterflyfish that has a realistic shot at long-term success in a home aquarium, Heniochus is the safest starting point outside of Klein’s.
2. Klein’s Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon kleinii
- Common Name: Klein’s Butterflyfish, Blacklip Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
Mark’s Pick
Klein’s is my top recommendation for any hobbyist who wants a butterflyfish and wants a realistic chance at success. It has the most flexible diet in the family, accepts prepared foods most readily, and does well in FOWLR systems and some mixed reefs. If you’ve been thinking about adding a butterfly to your system, start with Klein’s.
Klein’s is the most beginner-friendly butterflyfish available and the one I recommend to anyone who asks. It’s not the flashiest, but it transitions to prepared foods better than any other species in this family, accepts mysis shrimp and marine pellets readily, and adapts to FOWLR systems without the feeding drama that plagues most other butterflies. At 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm), it fits in a 75-gallon (284 L) system. It is not fully reef safe but is one of the less destructive species when well-fed and given a large enough territory.
3. Raccoon Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon lunula
- Common Name: Raccoon Butterflyfish, Moon Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific, Hawaii
- Tank Size: 100 gallons (379 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The raccoon butterflyfish is identified by the dark mask across its eyes and the bold yellow, white, and black color pattern. It’s one of the more commonly available butterflyfish and one of the more adaptable in terms of diet, accepting a range of invertebrates, tube worms, and over time, prepared meaty foods. I’ve kept this species and it will eat. Getting it onto prepared foods takes some work initially, target-feeding mysis shrimp works well, but once it’s eating it’s a reliable feeder.
It will eat Aiptasia, which some reefers use as justification for putting it in a reef tank. That is not a good enough reason. This species will also eat your other invertebrates and pick at corals. It belongs in a FOWLR system. At 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm), it needs a minimum 100-gallon (379 L) tank and plenty of open swimming space.
4. Copperband Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chelmon rostratus
- Common Name: Copperband Butterflyfish, Beaked Coralfish
- Size: 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The Copperband is the most popular butterflyfish in the hobby. It’s also one of the most commonly dead butterflyfish in the hobby. People buy it to control Aiptasia, it refuses to eat anything else, and it slowly starves while they keep trying different foods. This is a predictable outcome that happens over and over.
Getting a Copperband to accept prepared foods is one of the more difficult challenges in marine fishkeeping. Start with live or frozen copepods, then small live brine shrimp, then frozen brine, then mysis shrimp, then anything more substantial. The process can take weeks. Some specimens never get there. Purchasing only from a store that shows you the fish actively eating prepared food before you buy is the only way to significantly improve your odds.
The Copperband requires a mature, stable system. New tanks with swinging parameters will kill it within weeks. A minimum 75-gallon (284 L) is required, and the tank should have been running at least 12 months before adding this species. If your Aiptasia problem requires a solution faster than that, look at peppermint shrimp instead.
5. Longnose Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Forcipiger flavissimus
- Common Name: Longnose Butterflyfish
- Size: 6 to 8 inches (15 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific, Red Sea, Eastern Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The longnose butterflyfish has an extremely elongated snout that it uses to extract prey from crevices in the reef. In the wild it feeds on small crustaceans, polychaete worms, and other small invertebrates hidden deep in the rock. In an aquarium, that specialized feeding behavior means it needs a well-established system with diverse food sources hidden in the rockwork. It will accept small live and frozen foods like copepods and mysis shrimp once acclimated, but it takes patience.
Unlike most butterflies, the longnose has a realistic chance in a mature reef. It tends to leave corals alone and feeds on mobile invertebrates rather than coral tissue. Not fully reef safe, but one of the better options if you want a butterfly in a reef environment. Still not recommended for beginners.
6. Threadfin Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon auriga
- Common Name: Threadfin Butterflyfish, Auriga Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific, Red Sea
- Tank Size: 100 gallons (379 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The threadfin is one of the larger and more commonly available butterflyfish. It gets its name from the extended filament on its dorsal fin. It will eat a range of foods including tube worms, soft coral polyps, and invertebrates, which makes it a poor reef choice. In a FOWLR system it’s a relatively manageable species that accepts prepared meaty foods once acclimated. Target feeding during initial weeks in a quarantine tank makes the transition to prepared foods significantly easier.
7. Saddleback Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon ephippium
- Common Name: Saddleback Butterflyfish
- Size: 9 to 12 inches (23 to 30 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 125 gallons (473 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The saddleback is a stunning species with a distinctive dark saddle patch across its rear body. It’s a large fish that grows up to 12 inches (30 cm) and needs a 125-gallon (473 L) minimum. It eats coral polyps, algae, and various invertebrates. Not reef safe. In a FOWLR setup with an experienced keeper, it’s a manageable species that accepts meaty prepared foods. The size commitment should not be underestimated. This fish needs space, a stable system, and a keeper who understands the commitment involved.
8. Vagabond Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon vagabundus
- Common Name: Vagabond Butterflyfish, Crisscross Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 9 inches (18 to 23 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 100 gallons (379 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The vagabond has a distinctive crisscross pattern of diagonal lines across its white body. It’s one of the more adaptable species in the family and transitions to prepared meaty foods more readily than most. In a FOWLR system, it’s a reasonable choice for experienced hobbyists who want a medium-difficulty butterfly. Will eat corals and invertebrates, so reef tanks are not suitable.
9. Redfin Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon lunulatus
- Common Name: Redfin Butterflyfish, Oval Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The redfin is a strikingly colored species with red, yellow, and white patterning. It feeds primarily on coral polyps and is not suitable for reef tanks under any circumstances. In a FOWLR system it can be maintained with prepared meaty foods, but weaning it off its natural corallivore diet requires commitment and consistent target feeding over weeks. Not a beginner fish.
10. Spotfin Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon ocellatus
- Common Name: Spotfin Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Atlantic Ocean (Western Atlantic)
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The spotfin is the most common Atlantic butterflyfish and one of the more frequently seen in stores on the eastern United States. It has a white body with a small spot on the dorsal fin and yellow accents. This species eats a wide range of invertebrates and soft coral polyps. Not reef safe. With consistent target feeding of mysis shrimp and other meaty preparations in quarantine, it transitions reasonably well. Best suited to a FOWLR system.
11. Lemon Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon miliaris
- Common Name: Lemon Butterflyfish, Milletseed Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm)
- Origin: Hawaiian Islands
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: Rarely
The lemon butterflyfish from Hawaii has a bright yellow body covered in rows of small dark spots. It’s one of the more omnivorous butterflyfish species and accepts prepared foods more readily than many. In a FOWLR system, this is among the better long-term choices. It will still pick at certain invertebrates, but its diet flexibility means starvation is less of a concern than with obligate corallivores. Tank-raised specimens occasionally appear in the trade and are significantly easier to work with.
12. Pearlscale Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon xanthurus
- Common Name: Pearlscale Butterflyfish, Crosshatch Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The pearlscale has an orange-red tail and a distinctive crosshatched scale pattern. It feeds primarily on coral polyps and small invertebrates. In a FOWLR system it can be maintained, but it’s one of the pickier eaters in the family and some specimens never transition to prepared foods reliably. Not reef safe. Intermediate difficulty for an experienced keeper with a mature system.
13. Triangular Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon triangulum
- Common Name: Triangle Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm)
- Origin: Indian Ocean
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The triangle butterflyfish is an obligate corallivore. It eats hard coral tissue almost exclusively in the wild and rarely adapts to prepared foods in captivity. This species appears in stores periodically but belongs in an expert setup or not in captivity at all. Its survival in typical home aquariums is poor.
14. Bennett’s Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon bennetti
- Common Name: Bennett’s Butterflyfish, Eclipse Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 8 inches (18 to 20 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 100 gallons (379 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
Bennett’s butterflyfish is a corallivore that is notoriously difficult to maintain in captivity. It rarely accepts prepared foods and tends to decline in captivity even in expert hands. Its appearance in the trade is unfortunately not matched by its suitability for most hobbyists. Avoid unless you’re running a dedicated, expert-level FOWLR system with live coral feeding options.
15. Panda Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon adiergastos
- Common Name: Panda Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm)
- Origin: Western Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The panda butterflyfish has a pale grey-white body with dark stripes around the head reminiscent of panda markings. It feeds on coral polyps and polychaete worms. Not reef safe. In a mature FOWLR system with consistent live or frozen food offerings, some specimens adjust. Intermediate difficulty for a dedicated keeper.
16. Tinker’s Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon tinkeri
- Common Name: Tinker’s Butterflyfish, Hawaiian Butterflyfish
- Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
- Origin: Hawaiian Islands, Johnston Atoll
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
Tinker’s is a deepwater species rarely seen in the trade. When it is available, it commands premium pricing. It has an unusual two-tone pattern, white on the front and dark on the rear. This species comes from deeper water than most tropical reef fish, which means it prefers cooler temperatures around 72 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (22 to 24 degrees Celsius). It needs a dedicated, stable system with careful temperature management. A beautiful fish, but requiring significant experience and infrastructure to keep successfully.
17. Multiband Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon multicinctus
- Common Name: Multiband Butterflyfish, Pebbled Butterflyfish
- Size: 4 to 5 inches (10 to 13 cm)
- Origin: Hawaiian Islands
- Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The multiband is one of the smaller Hawaiian butterflies with a distinctive peppered pattern. It feeds primarily on coral polyps in the wild and has a poor record in aquarium settings. Experienced Hawaiian reef keepers report occasional success in dedicated systems, but it is not a recommended species for hobbyists outside of expert FOWLR builds.
18. Spot-Nape Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon oxycephalus
- Common Name: Spot-Nape Butterflyfish
- Size: 7 to 10 inches (18 to 25 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 125 gallons (473 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The spot-nape is one of the larger butterflyfish and is characterized by a single black spot on its nape and a yellow-tinged body with vertical brown stripes. This is a corallivore. Not reef safe. At 10 inches (25 cm) fully grown, it needs a very large system. This species is rarely available and belongs only in expert-level setups.
19. Pacific Double-Saddle Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon ulietensis
- Common Name: Pacific Double-Saddle Butterflyfish, False Falcula
- Size: 5 to 6 inches (13 to 15 cm)
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The double-saddle has two prominent black saddle patches on its upper body and is sometimes confused with the Falcula butterflyfish. It eats coral polyps in the wild. In aquariums, some specimens make the transition to frozen mysis shrimp and other prepared meaty foods, but success is inconsistent. FOWLR only.
20. Melon Butterflyfish
- Scientific Name: Chaetodon trifasciatus
- Common Name: Melon Butterflyfish, Redfin Coralfish
- Size: 5 to 7 inches (13 to 18 cm)
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
- Tank Bred Available: No
The melon butterflyfish is a strikingly colored species with pink-red horizontal lines and a vivid yellow dorsal fin edge. It feeds almost exclusively on Acropora coral polyps in the wild and has an extremely poor record in captivity. Even experienced reefers rarely succeed with this species long-term. This is one of the species that should stay in the ocean.
21. Copperband Butterfly (Beaked Coralfish)
Already covered fully in position 4. See the Copperband section above for complete care notes. It’s listed here to acknowledge that many lists include it near the end, but it’s prominent enough to cover fully at the top given how commonly it’s purchased and how often it fails.
Butterflyfish Comparison Table
| Species | Size | Min Tank | Reef Safe | Feeding Difficulty | Overall Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Klein’s | 5-6 in (13-15 cm) | 75 gal (284 L) | FOWLR only | Easiest | Intermediate |
| Heniochus | 8-10 in (20-25 cm) | 125 gal (473 L) | With caution | Easy | Intermediate |
| Raccoon | 7-8 in (18-20 cm) | 100 gal (379 L) | No | Moderate | Intermediate |
| Longnose | 6-8 in (15-20 cm) | 75 gal (284 L) | With caution | Moderate | Intermediate |
| Copperband | 7-8 in (18-20 cm) | 75 gal (284 L) | No | Very Hard | Advanced |
| Threadfin | 7-8 in (18-20 cm) | 100 gal (379 L) | No | Moderate | Intermediate |
| Saddleback | 9-12 in (23-30 cm) | 125 gal (473 L) | No | Moderate | Intermediate-Adv |
| Lemon (Hawaii) | 5-7 in (13-18 cm) | 75 gal (284 L) | FOWLR only | Easy-Mod | Intermediate |
| Melon / Redfin | 5-7 in (13-18 cm) | 75 gal (284 L) | No | Expert only | Expert |
| Bennett’s | 7-8 in (18-20 cm) | 100 gal (379 L) | No | Expert only | Expert |
FAQs
Are any butterflyfish reef safe?
Very few. The Heniochus is the closest to reef safe, but even it may pick at soft corals and LPS over time. The longnose has a better record in mixed reefs than most. Everything else on this list is best kept in a FOWLR system. “Reef safe with caution” in this family means there is a real chance the fish damages your corals. Know that going in.
Why do butterflyfish die so fast in aquariums?
Two main reasons. First, starvation. Most species eat coral polyps or specialized prey in the wild and refuse prepared foods in captivity. Second, stress from inadequate systems. Butterflyfish come from mature, stable reefs. New tanks with fluctuating parameters, insufficient swimming space, or inappropriate tank mates kill them quickly. A butterflyfish that won’t eat in a tank with unstable parameters has almost no chance.
How do I get a Copperband butterflyfish to eat?
Start with live copepods or live brine shrimp to trigger its hunting instinct. Transition to frozen brine, then frozen mysis shrimp, using target feeding with a pipette aimed directly at the fish. Keep the tank dimly lit during feeding. Some specimens take weeks. Some never fully transition. Buying only a fish you see actively eating prepared food at the store is the most reliable shortcut.
What is the best butterflyfish for a beginner?
Honestly, no butterflyfish is a beginner fish. If you’re committed, start with Klein’s in a mature FOWLR system. It’s the most forgiving in terms of feeding and water parameter tolerance. Make sure the tank has been running at least 12 months before adding any butterflyfish.
Can I keep two butterflyfish together?
Some species form natural pairs and can be kept together if introduced simultaneously. Heniochus is commonly kept in pairs. For single-species pairs, introduce them at the same time in a large enough system. Mixing different butterflyfish species in the same tank can work in large systems but increases aggression risk. Never keep two of the same species unless they’re a bonded pair from the same source.
Closing Thoughts
Butterflyfish are some of the most beautiful marine fish in the hobby. They’re also some of the most frequently dead within six months of purchase. That doesn’t have to be the case if you go in prepared, choose the right species, and set up the right system before you buy the fish.
The short version: Klein’s or Heniochus in a mature FOWLR system is a realistic success story. Copperband or any obligate corallivore in a new reef tank is not. The fish pay for the mismatch, not the hobbyist’s enthusiasm.
If you’ve done your research and you’re ready, check availability at Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both are reliable sources that can tell you whether a specific specimen is eating before it ships.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
- About the Author
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I’m Mark Valderrama, founder of Aquarium Store Depot and a fishkeeper with over 25 years of hands-on experience. I started in the hobby at age 11, worked at local fish stores, and have kept freshwater tanks, ponds, and reef tanks ever since. I’ve been featured in two best-selling aquarium books on Amazon and built this site to share practical, experience-based fish keeping knowledge.



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