Category: The AquariumStoreDepot.com blog

  • 10 Exotic Freshwater Fish Worth Keeping (My Honest Picks)

    10 Exotic Freshwater Fish Worth Keeping (My Honest Picks)

    After 25 years in this hobby, I still get excited by freshwater species that most people overlook. The assumption that you need a saltwater tank for exotic fish is flat-out wrong. some of the most unusual, beautiful animals I’ve kept have been freshwater. These are the ten I’d recommend to anyone ready to go beyond the basics.

    Most people assume you need a saltwater tank to keep truly exotic fish. I’d push back on that hard. In 25+ years I’ve come across freshwater species that stop people cold when they see them for the first time. The issue is that many of these fish are genuinely challenging: some are hyper-aggressive, some need massive tanks, and a few are outright scary to feed. That’s part of what makes them interesting. Here are my top 10 picks that I’ve either kept personally or studied closely enough to give you real guidance on.

    10 Most Exotic Freshwater Fish

    1. Wolf Cichlid

    Wolf Cichlid

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 75 gallons 
    • Max Size – Around 28 inches
    • Temperament – VERY Aggressive
    • Lifespan – 30 years
    • Price – $20

    A relatively plain-looking fish as an adult so you may be wondering why this Cichlid makes our most exotic freshwater fish list. Well, it’s because this fish is hyper-aggressive. It is easily the most aggressive cichlid you can buy and arguably the most aggressive freshwater fish commonly available. 

    They are a total handful, they are usually best kept alone in a tank as they will harass any other fish in the aquarium and they are scary to feed. Just look at this video by Mbuna Marcus of his Wolf Cichlid. Several times in this video his Wolf Cichlid went right for his fingers while eating and splashes water over his floors! These fish do not mess around! 

    9. Vampire Tetra

    Vampire Tetra

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 75 gallons 
    • Max Size – Around 12 inches
    • Temperament – Aggressive
    • Lifespan – 2 years in captivity
    • Price – $75+

    This is one crazy-looking exotic freshwater fish. They have giant front teeth which are where the name vampire comes from. They are very aggressive fish that require expert-level maintenance. Most of these fish usually will not live very long in captivity, unfortunately. They usually only eat live fish and will rarely accept frozen foods. They are best suited for a species-only aquarium with most aquarists who keep them only having a single fish in the tank.  

    8. Red Texas Cichlid

    Texas Red Cichlid

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 75 gallons 
    • Max Size – Around 12 inches
    • Temperament – Aggressive
    • Lifespan – Around 5-10 years
    • Price – Usually around $150-200 at 6 inches

    This hybrid cichlid was created by breeding a Texas Cichlid and a Flowerhorn Cichlid. They are difficult to find and usually available seasonally from breeders. They command a high price tag since they are hard to find. 

    7. African Cichlids

    African Cichlid

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 40 gallons 
    • Max Size – Up to 24 inches though usually 6-7 inches
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive to Aggressive
    • Lifespan – Around 5-10 years
    • Most Expensive – Showcase African Varieties usually $120+

    There are so many African cichlid types we could list here. Since many of them are often confused as saltwater fish by many people who see them for the first time, I felt that it was best to include most of the African lake cichlids in one group. There are some Africans that you can get for cheap like assorted Mbunas from a local fish store. However, there are specific varieties of Africans that can command prices over $100. If you are interested in learning more about African Cichlid tanks and care, please be sure to check our earlier blog post.  

    6. Flowerhorn Cichlid

    Flowerhorn Cichlid

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 70 gallons 
    • Max Size – 15 inches
    • Temperament – Aggressive
    • Lifespan – Around 7 years
    • Most Expensive – Breeder Showcase Varieties $500+

    A very beautiful exotic freshwater fish that originates from Malaysia. In Asia, they are considered a bringer of good luck. Flowerhorn Cichlids come in a variety of colors including reds, blues, pinks, yellows, and oranges. They are an aggressive Cichlid species and prefer large tanks all to themselves.  

    5. Pleco

    L250 Pleco

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 70 gallons 
    • Max Size – 18 inches
    • Temperament – Peaceful
    • Lifespan – Around 20 years
    • Most Expensive – L250 Pleco $10,000+

    While most hobbyists will think a Pleco is a common freshwater fish, they really are a unique exotic freshwater fish. Many varieties like Snowball, Zebra, Golden Nugget and Royal Plecos are examples on how exotic-looking Plecos can be. There are common plecos which can get fairly large typically around 12-18 inches in length and there are smaller varieties like Bristle Nose Plecos which are suitable for smaller aquariums.  

    The most expensive Pleco to date was the L250 Pleco sold back in 2004 for over $10,000 in Japan; however, most Plecos do not sell anywhere near that. There are several types of Plecos that will sell for over $100 though.

    4. Discus

    Discus Fish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 75 gallons 
    • Max Size – 8 – 10 inches
    • Temperament – Peaceful
    • Lifespan – Around 10 years
    • Most Expensive – Mated Pair Discus $1,000+

    When one thinks of exotic freshwater fish, this is usually the fish most people think of. They can be expensive, have a variety of colors, are very delicate, and require excellent water parameters. Discus belong to the Cichlid genus and originate from South America. They are very social with members of their own species. They will also breed in the aquarium, which has created an industry of cichlid breeders where some top strains will sell for several hundred to thousands of dollars.

    They are considered very challenging where they even intimate advanced aquarium keepers! If you are considering Discus and are new to keeping them, starting with an easier to keep discus breeder varieties like Stendker Discus or purchasing only domestically breed discuss will increase your chances to succeed.

    3. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 180 gallons 
    • Max Size – Up to 3 feet
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Lifespan – Around 10 years
    • Most Expensive – Polka Dot Stingray $100,000

    When most of us think about stingrays, we think about the saltwater variety. There are freshwater varieties that originate from the Amazon. Beautiful, bold, and unique looking they are difficult to resist if you have a big enough aquarium. This exotic fresh fish is also venomous. While there are no known cases of a freshwater stingray causing a human fatality, they have been cases where the sting has caused numbness at the wound site several years later!

    The rarest stingrays also command high price tags. One such stingray at the Taiwan Expo featured a Polka Dot Stingray with an asking price of $100,000!

    2. Arowana

    Arowana

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 125 gallons
    • Max Size – 3 Feet
    • Temperament – Aggressive
    • Lifespan – Up to 50 years
    • Most Expensive – Platinum Arowana $300,000

    An extremely popular freshwater fish due to its prehistoric cosmetic appearance, the Arowana is well known exotic freshwater fish. They are known for jumping as high as 6 feet in the air for prey in the wild and have been known to jump out of aquariums. They get very large and are usually housed in an aquarium at least 125 gallons or larger. A common Arowana can be purchased for around $50 to a few hundred dollars.

    However, certain Arowanas can fetch extreme price tags. Prized Arowana like the Platinum Arowana can sell for over $300,000!. These Arowanas are considered so valuable that they have microchips implanted into them before they reach sexual maturity to help identify and authenticate it. 

    1. Japanese Koi

    Exotic Freshwater Fish - Japanese Koi

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 1000 gallons
    • Max Size – 3 Feet
    • Temperament – Peaceful
    • Lifespan – Around to 30 years
    • Most Expensive – Golden Carp $2,000,000+

    In Japanese culture, the Koi fish is celebrated as a noble creature. It is said that Japanese Koi are able to climb large waterfalls bravely, which symbolizes that incredible achievement is possible with hard work. It is also said in Koi lore that if a Koi fish is caught, it will lie on the cutting board awaiting its death without fear, similar to the Samurai warriors. There are also legends stating that if a Koi climbed the waterfall on the Yellow River, it would be transformed to a Koi Dragon.

    With such great history, lore, long life spans, and respect for these fish, there is no question for this fish to be #1 on our most exotic freshwater fish list. In fact, the most expensive koi on the list demands a staggering price tag of over $2,000,000! You can see the prized fish in the video below: 

    What Has Been Your Experience With These Exotic Freshwater Fish?

    Have you kept any of these fish on this list? If so, share your experiences in the comments below. We would love you hear about your experiences. 

  • Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    The Blue Hippo Tang needs a tank of 125 gallons or larger. It is also one of the most ich-prone fish in the marine hobby.

    If you skip quarantine with a blue tang, you are introducing ich to your display tank. It is not a question of if. It is when.

    Saltwater fish do not forgive mistakes the way freshwater fish do.

    Saltwater fish require stable parameters, quality food, and a mature tank. The startup cost and ongoing maintenance are significantly higher than freshwater.

    In saltwater, the tank runs on stability. Every shortcut you take shows up weeks later as a problem.

    There are so many opportunities to teach children – biological, chemistry, trade skills from DIY projects, plumbing, software, etc. I’m going a little bit off topic in my excitement though – I promise you I will follow up in a later post about the benefits and activities you can work on with your family when you have an aquarium.  

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Blue Hippo Tang

    The Blue Hippo Tang is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

    Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Blue Hippo Tang learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

    Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

    Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

    The Reality of Keeping Blue Hippo Tang

    A mature tank is mandatory. Most saltwater fish need a tank that has been running and stable for at least 3 to 6 months. New tanks have unstable parameters that stress saltwater fish far more than freshwater species.

    Diet is not just flake food. Many saltwater fish need frozen mysis, brine shrimp, or specialty foods to thrive. A pellet-only diet leads to malnutrition, faded colors, and immune suppression. Variety is not optional.

    Quarantine is essential. Marine ich and velvet are common in newly purchased saltwater fish. A proper quarantine tank before adding fish to your display tank prevents devastating disease outbreaks.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Skipping quarantine and adding a new saltwater fish directly to the display tank. One infected fish introduces marine ich to your entire system. Treatment in a reef tank is nearly impossible because copper kills corals and invertebrates.

    Expert Take

    Quarantine every new fish for 4 to 6 weeks before adding it to your display. I have never met a serious reefer who regretted quarantining. I have met dozens who regretted skipping it.

    So What Is A Dory Fish?

    Scientific NameParacanthurus hepatus
    Common Name (Species)Blue Hippo Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Tang, Dory Fish, Pacific Blue Tang, Pacific Regal Blue Tang, Blue Tang Fish
    FamilyAcanthuridae
    OriginIndo Pacific
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate to Difficult
    ActivityActive
    LifespanUp to 20 years
    TempermentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size120 Gallons
    Temperature Range73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range8.1. 8.4
    Filtration/Flow RateAll
    Water TypeSaltwater
    BreedingDifficult – tank bred available
    CompatibilitySemi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks?Yes
    Ok, For Inverts?Mostly Yes

    The Dory Fish is known by various names including Blue Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Blue Surgeonfish, Indo-Pacific Blue Tang or by its scientific name Paracanthurus hepatus. These tangs are found in the Indo-Pacific from East Africa to Japan and swim at depths of 30 to 130 feet.  

    The terms Tang and Suregonfish actually refer to the extremely sharp spines on each side of the fish’s tail, which are said to resemble surgeon’s scalpels. These spines remain flat against the fish’s body and extend only when they are threatened or alarmed. 

    Finding Dory

    They are recognized for their vibrant coloring, yellow tail, and bold black markings. They are capable of adjusting their color intensity of their hue from light blue to deep purple. These colors will often fad as the fish ages. 

    Adults average about 12 inches in length and is found living alone, in pairs, or in schools of 10-12. They are known to live as long as 30 years in the wild – which is longer than any cat or dog! Blue Hippo Tang is a very active fish. It will easily swim miles a day in the ocean looking for food and may move seasonally. They feed on algae and use their sharp teeth to rip algae off rocks and corals. Their diet is not only important for the tang fish itself, but also for the health of reefs as they prevent algae from overgrowing and suffocating corals. 

    Realistic Expectations of a Dory Fish (Blue Hippo Tang) in an Aquarium

    So we have learned that a blue hippo tang can grow to a foot long, can outlive your cat or dog, and swim miles every day. What does that mean in a salwater aquarium? After all, you likely have seen a small 1 inch blue hippo tang for sale at your local fish or chain store. Please do not let this fool you. A small 1 inch blue hippo tang will quickly outgrow a small aquarium and needs a needs a proper tank tank size for a long and healthy life.

    A Blue Hippo Tang (paracanthurus hepatus) needs a proper tank with plenty of space to move around because as we all know Dory just loves to keep swimming! So what does proper tank mean? Well, I’m going to be very honest with you. Dory is a large fish and therefore requires a very large tank with lots of swimming room.  So this means the following:

    • Minimum tank length – 60 inches
    • Minimum tank volume – 120 gallons
    • Recommended tank length – 72 inches
    • Recommended tank volume – 180 gallons

    I know these recommendations are going to be outside of many people’s budgets or wants in the home, but I would rather be honest and realistic about the requirements about the blue hippo tang. I have seen far too many local store happily sell a 1″ blue hippo tang to a new hobbyist with a small tank without thinking twice about the care and requirements.  I’m all about responsible aquarium keeping and want to ensure you are successful for the long-term.

    Doryfish
    Even Petco is starting to get on-board with notices about Dory care

    If getting a large tank is something not feasible for you, but you still want a Dory you are still in good shape because there are fish are would make an excellent alternative.

    Alternatives

    Want a hardy first saltwater fish? Get clownfish. Want more personality? Get a six-line wrasse. Want a showstopper? This fish is worth the effort if your tank is ready.

    The best example of a similar looking fish to a Dory or Blue Hippo Tang are yellow-tail damsels. I have been in the aquarium industry for many years and you would be surprised how often I would hear “Look – a baby Dory!” – from a child pointing at the yellow-tail damsel in a tank. In fact, my story was so interesting that I was actually interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with the Blue Hippo Tang and the yellow-tail damsel.  

    Yellow Tail Damsel

    Not only is the yellow-tail damsel much smaller than the blue tang, but it is also very hardy. In fact, many damsels from the Chysipetra genus would make good alternative with their vibrate blue and yellow colors. I actually wrote a blog post earlier about them that you can read about here. 

    There are also some fish among Nemo’s group of friends from the first movie that would make good additions to a saltwater aquarium – including the Gurgle the Royal Gamma and Nemo himself that I wrote about earlier in my Top 10 Saltwater Fish List. Even if you are going to get your own Dory, these fish make perfect tank-mates for them.

    Selection and Introduction

    If I have not scared you off in purchasing a regal blue tang, then I take it you know full well the requirements of keeping this fish so I will continue on. When selecting a blue hippo tang, it is best to purchase a tang at least 3 inches, not thin, actively feeding, and shows no physical signs of disease. The truth with the blue hippo tang is they are highly susceptible to parasites like ich and marine velvet as well as head and lateral line disease.

    I have seen far too many tank crashes where a blue hippo tang is added, they get ich, then the tank quickly crashes as the disease spreads.  Because of this, it is highly recommended that you quarantine a blue hippo tang before introducing them to your display tank. The quarantine period will help ensure that your fish is healthy before introducing them to your main tank. Outside of proper selection and quarantine, the main reason why these fish often get sick is lack of space (which I covered earlier) – and lack of nutrition.

    Nutritional Requirements

    The blue hippo tang is an omnivorous saltwater fish and providing them with a solid mix of meaty and green based foods is absolutely critical in keeping your tang healthy and happy. Seaweed probably the best green source you can feed your tang. One of the biggest secrets out there if you can get your tang to eat it is actually Nori sheets from your grocery store. They are way cheaper than the seaweed products that sellers like myself can get and you can pick them up locally.

    Please ensure that seaweed is the only ingredient and no salt is added. Romaine lettuce and spinach work as well, but there is some debate about this from purists in the reefing community that feel that greens of a marine origin are best. They also are not as nutritious as seaweed. 

    A feeding clip is incredible handy for feeding Tangs. These clips allow the blue hippo tang to naturally graze and keeps the seaweed from spreading around your tank. It may take some time for them to get used to eating this way, but once they get used to the clip it will be a feeding frenzy every time! Here is an example of a Palting from the ReefCentral forum feeding his tangs Nori from the grocery store: 

    For meaty foods, I would recommend LRS Foods. LRS foods are one of the finest saltwater fish foods in the world, used by top breeders in Europe and North America. You want to get top quality food for a blue tang as nutrition is such a critical aspect from keeping them disease food.

    Care Requirements

    A Blue Hippo Tang is a large saltwater fish that require quality water, filtration, and oxygenation. I would not recommend a hang-on back setup for tank with a Blue Hippo Tang. You absolutely have to go with a sump setup and quality protein skimmer and/or algae turf scrubber. The sump will provide you with additional tank volume, stability, and utility for added equipment like auto top offs and controllers which you will likely want to invest in order to ensure your aquarium is as stable as possible. Blue tangs live in environments with natural strong flow and lots or rocks so the flow and aquascaping of a mixed reef tank definitely suits them.

    They are compatible with most other aquarium fish, but be very careful with keeping more than one. Two blue tangs in a single reef tank will often show aggression except in very large tanks. They are also known for getting aggressive in smaller tanks, which is another reason I recommended a tank volume size of 180 gallons.

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are semi-aggressive, which means they will be territorial and harass more timid fish. You can curb aggression with a larger tank. They are also aggressive to other tangs of the same sub-species. If you are considering multiple tangs, consider a tang of a different sub-species too maximize your chances of success.

    What Do They Eat?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are omnivornes, but do better with greens in their diets. A diet with greens like nori, spirulina, and algae are healthy for a blue tang. They will also eat meaty foods like mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and black worms. A good frozen food to try is LRS Foods Herbivore Frenzy

    Are They Hardy?

    They are not as hardy as other tangs is. They are very susceptible to ich and other marine fish diseases. Tangs like the Scopas, Kole, and Tomini tang are better candidates for first time tang keepers.

    We are here to help you!

    I have gone over what is a Dory fish, recommended tank size, introduction, nutrition, care, and even alternative fish. Following these guidelines and tips in this post will help you succeed in keeping your very own Dory (or “baby dory”). If you have any additional questions, leave me a comment below. Myself and the team here are Aquarium Store Depot are happy to help! See you next time :).

  • LED Aquarium Lighting for Reef Tanks: How to Choose the Right One

    LED Aquarium Lighting for Reef Tanks: How to Choose the Right One

    Reef lighting is the single most impactful equipment decision in a coral system. and the one I see hobbyists get most confused about. I’ve run multiple reef lighting setups in my 125-gallon over the years, from T5 fixtures to high-end LEDs, and the market has improved dramatically. Here’s how to choose what actually works for your corals.

    Reef lighting is the single most debated topic in the saltwater hobby. and after running a 125-gallon reef and personally testing dozens of LED fixtures over the years, I can tell you that most of the confusion is unnecessary. The core mistake I see from new reefers is cranking intensity to 100% right away, which bleaches corals that need weeks to acclimate to new light. The second mistake is buying cheap LED fixtures that don’t deliver the blue-spectrum wavelengths corals actually use for photosynthesis. they look “bright” but they’re not doing what your coral needs. Good reef LEDs come down to PAR output at your coral depth, spectrum quality (especially in the 420. 480nm blue range), and programmability for sunrise/sunset cycles. Here’s how to cut through the noise and choose the right one for your tank.

    There is a lot of confusion when it comes to LED lighting for reef tanks. They look great and provide a lot of benefits to your reef tank, they are pretty technologically advanced. However, a number of reefers have reported mixed results with LEDs and the specs on these fixtures are not exactly universal, unlike traditional T5 lighting. We created this article to assist in the LED selection and buying process. Our goal at the end of the article is you been given the knowledge to select the best LED system for your tank:

    Why LED Lighting?

    There are a ton of reasons why reefers consider LED lighting. The biggest reason is the fact that you will never need to buy replacement lights ever again because of their long lifespan. This saves a lot of money and cuts down on the most common maintenance issues with traditional T5 and Metal Halide lighting. They are the most energy-efficient lighting setups and will cut down on energy consumption in the home.

    LED lighting is also controllable and offers all sorts of customization to suit your individual tank needs. This means that you do not need to find different types of light bulbs to suit your tank as you can just adjust the spectrum either manually on the light fixture itself or through controller software via an app.

    The PAR and spectrum output on LED is also very consistent. When you use T5 or Metal Halides, the output of the bulbs will change over time requiring replacement. With T5 the best practice has typically been to replace half your T5s every 9-12 months. This is done in this fashion so that you always have fresh lights running in your tank, but does get pricey.

    LED light is also very low profile allowing for very attractive setups. They can be mounted on rails, suspended above the tank, mounted on the aquarium, etc.  They also offer a shimmer effect that compares with a Metal Halide setup.

    LED, while expensive upfront, is actually cheaper than traditional T5 and Metal Malide setups over the long run. Along with the cost savings in electricity, there is a significant cost saver over a 5-year period when considering bulb replacement costs.

    Cons of These Systems

    Looking at the list of the benefits of having a LED setup, it makes it seem like a no-brainer to select an LED setup over anything else. However, we need to discuss the disadvantages of LED systems.

    The biggest disadvantage to LEDs compared to T5 and Halides is the fact they are not exactly plug-and-play. This is likely the reason why some hobbyists have experienced mixed results with LEDs.  You have to keep into account intensity, spectrum, and positioning with LEDs to make sure they best fit your tank.

    This is where we need to take a step back from the fancy tech of LEDs and really focus on what matters – providing the proper light for our corals so they can thrive. It’s very easy to get caught up in the gadget and tech of LEDs or play with what looks the most visually appealing, but at the end of the day providing the proper light intensity and spectrum is the most important aspect.

    This is what can make LEDs complicated. Many reefers will not have knowledge of what proper PAR and spectrum levels are needed for their corals and have not really thought much about other factors like spacing or shadowing effects.  Many of us in the reefing community also do not have access to lighting tools that would tell us what our PAR is to efficiently measure our light intensity…we just use our eyes or our experience.  To help guide you on proper light selection, we need to define a few things for you – namely, what is PAR and what is Spectrum.

    So What is PAR and How Does It Relate To A Reef Tank?

    PAR, or Photosynthetically Active Radiation in our hobbyist terms is the number of particles of light that fall in a square meter over the course of one second that is in between the wavelengths of ~400nm to 600 nm.  NM stands for nanometer or billionths of a meter. Non-scientifically speaking it is the measurement of the total amount of visible light that shines on a square meter after one second.

    PAR is important to reef tanks because it is a measurement of how much usable light energy is available to your corals. It is one of the easiest ways for you to measure and gauge the exact amount of light your reef aquarium is receiving – which is extremely important when it comes to LED lighting.

    Why is this so important for LEDs? The main reason why is because LEDs are the most intensive lighting systems you can buy on the market. Several of the higher-end LEDs will outperform metal halides in PAR ratings and will need to turn down to avoid coral deaths. Knowing this, adjustments may be necessary for your light fixture and we have to understand that it is actually better to have too little light than too much light for a coral. Corals can be pretty adaptable and can survive months of too little light, which will give you time to adjust and provide the correct lighting for them.  However, too much light will cause a coral to pass away within days! It’s no wonder knowing this now that reefers can have mixed results with LEDs!

    Now that you know what PAR is, we need to explain what are acceptable PAR ranges for your aquarium. Keep in mind these are general recommendations. Particularly with SPS corals, the range can vary widely. Also, keep in mind that PAR ranges are higher at the top of the tank and lower at the bottom of the tank. What this would mean is if you got a LED fixture that produces around 300 PAR at the bottom of a tank, at the top of the tank you would likely be producing over 500 PAR.

    SPS – 150~300 PAR
    LPS/Softies – 25~100 PAR

    What is Spectrum And How Does It Relate To A Reef Tank?

    For our discussion about the spectrum, we are going to concentrate on the visible light spectrum. Visible light is a form of electromagnetic radiation and is defined as the wavelengths that are visible to the human eye. The wavelengths are measured in nanometers. These range from 400nm which is ultraviolet to 800nm which goes to infrared.  When it comes to reef tanks, we are concerned with the following colors:

    Blue (420-460nm) – Most important
    Green – Mostly visual – can increase algae growth
    Red – Removed by ocean water in the wild may be more harmful than helpful
    Light Spectrum
    There are a lot of theories when it comes to correct spectrum – but we lean on the spectrum specs of proven technologies like T-5’s. We will use an ATI bulb as an example as ATI bulbs are a benchmark when it comes to T-5’s. You can see the wavelength range of ATI’s Coral Plus lights below noting the 460 nm peak:
    ATI Spectrum Chart

    So What Makes a good LED Fixture?

    There are 5 things to consider when determining if a LED Fixture is of good quality:

    1. Longevity
    2. Build Quality
    3. PAR Output and Spread
    4. Spectrum
    5. Support and Part Availability

    The longevity of your LED Fixture to me is the most important factor in your decision-making. These units are not cheap and should outlast the tank that you are going to mount it on. You can look up reviews on-line and forum comments on the LED brand you are looking up to get the best gauge.

    Build Quality is another factor you will want to consider. Ask yourself questions like is the fixture built by a US based company and have they been around in the industry for years? The last thing you want is for a part to break and you have no support because the company is no longer around or their support is from another country like China and they won’t respond to your e-mails.

    PAR is the next consideration. Given the LED fixtures that we sell in our store, you will have no issue answering that question – what you likely will need to deal with is too much intensity on the highest-end models that we sell. The PAR spread is also another factor to keep in mind. Some of the models can have very intense lighting in the middle and the spread is less on the outside.  Other models have a fair even spread. In both cases, you will need to factor in spacing to solve get the proper PAR or adjust your intensity on the fixtures.

    Spectrum is important if your fixture is not adjustable. This is a critical question to answer if you purchase an LED fixture that does not publish its a spectrum or give you the option of adjusting the spectrum. Other higher-end models allow you to adjust the spectrum yourself to suit your needs, which may require you to adjust it. This can be a pro or even a con as adjustments can get complicated. You will want to look for a light fixture that peaks around the 460nm range, which has been the standard for top T5 lighting manufacturers for many years.

    This is where a manufacturer like a Kessil comes in with their simple adjustable features that ensure you always have the correct spectrum for your controls (Called the Kessil Logic), but allows you to remove harmful colors or reduce intensity. They also focused on more even spread than intensity which makes them more suitable for beginner and intermediate hobbyists..

    To help simplify the selection process for you, we provided the PAR & Stock Spectrum readings from our most popular LED lighting and our recommendations below.  All readings are at 100% intensity:

    MaxSpec Razor
    @ 6″: 220-193 PAR at top, 67 PAR at 24″ deep
    @ 12″: 128-116 PAR at top, 67 PAT at 24″ deep
    Peak Spectrum – 450nm
    Best for Mixed Reefs

    Kessil 360WE
    @ 6″: 189-181 PAR at top, 95 PAR at 24″ deep
    @ 12″: 104 PAR at top, 79 PAR at 24″ deep
    Peak Spectrum – 460nm
    Best for Mixed Reefs

    Kessil AP700
    @ 6″: 420-380 PAR at top, 176 PAR at 24″ deep
    @ 12″: 275 PAR at top, 188 PAR at 24″ deep
    Peak Spectrum – 460nm
    Best for Heavy SPS
    Works for Mixed Reefs if raised higher – Can light a 4′ mixed reef tank

    Our last factor is support and part availability.  If your fixture comes with moving parts like a fan, you may need to replace the part in the future. Ask yourself the following questions:

    • Does the manufacturer have quality support?
    • Is customer service US based and easily accessible?
    • Do they carry parts for earlier models?
    • How quickly can they supply parts to you?

    These are all factors you need to consider when purchasing an LED fixture. We have a post discussing the Best Reef LED systems on the market that goes in more detail about the best-LED lights available in the hobby today.

    Do I need a PAR Meter?

    The main issue with PAR Meters is that they are expensive.  If you are going for a heavy SPS tank or large mixed reef setup, it might be worthwhile to purchase one given a $200 investment could save you thousands of dollars in lost corals. We would recommend an Apogee PAR meter (Quick Note – This post includes affiliate links for which I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase) if you are looking for one.

    If you cannot afford one, it may be possible to get one from a hobbyist club or a fellow reefer. The best bet, however, is to just avoid the very high end of the LED market as they typically are too intense for most reefers’ needs and will likely need to be dialed back to work on your tank. Kessil with its simple-to-use adjustments even spread, and less intensity is best suited for those who want as plug-and-play LED fixtures as possible.  Even the AP700 is a strong consideration for SPS heavy tanks and its PAR testings have shown a very even distribution of PAR.  At the end of the day, we have to keep in mind that too much light will kill your corals much faster than too little light.

    We hope this will help you in your decision on selecting a fixture.  If you have any questions about your potential purchase, leave us a comment below.  If you already have an LED fixture, please leave us a comment and explain why you came to the decision of purchasing your fixture.

  • Top 5 Free Reef Hobbyist Magazines – Recommended by a 25-Year Reefer

    Top 5 Free Reef Hobbyist Magazines – Recommended by a 25-Year Reefer

    I’ve been part of the reef hobby for over 25 years, and one of the best ways I’ve stayed sharp is by reading the publications written by fellow passionate hobbyists. Reef magazines are a goldmine of expert knowledge. from coral aquaculture to fish behavior. and the best part is that several excellent ones are completely free. These are the top free reef hobbyist magazines I’d recommend to anyone in the hobby, whether you’re just starting out or have years of experience.

    The saltwater aquarium hobby is a passionate hobby that is filled with a ton of information. Some of this information can seem conflicting, especially on forums. We tend to recommend checking out hobbyist clubs and magazines. The reason why is because hobbyist clubs allow you to personally connect with other peers in the hobby and get mentor-ships and group collaborate.  Magazines are a great resource because the articles are written by top notch writers and researchers in the hobby. Below we outlined a list of the Top 5 Reef Hobbyist Magazines that are free to anyone in the hobby:

    Advanced Aquarist Magazine
    This reef hobbyist magazine is the longest running online publication.  Founded in 2002, this magazine focuses on publishing exclusive, relevant content written by world renowned experts in the field.

    Practical Fish Keeping
    A UK Reef Hobbyist Magazine that has been around for over 50 years! The magazine publishes both freshwater and saltwater content.  While the magazine itself you would have to pay for, the content on the website should be plenty for most hobbyist.

    ReefHobbyist Magazine
    This reef hobbyist magazine is made available for free in many local fish stores. A digital subscription is available on-line by going to their website and signing up. There is some pretty advanced hobbyist articles in this magazine as well as interviews and product reviews

    FishChannel.com
    FishChannel.com has a great website filled with articles for both freshwater and saltwater tank setup, aquascaping, Fish Species profiles, and more. Their facebook page tends to post the most recent articles.

    Tropical Fish Hobbyist 
    Since 1952, TFH Magazine has been a staple of the aquarium hobby. They cover from beginner to advanced, freshwater and saltwater, and have a no-frills magazine available online. While the main printed magazine is not free, there is plenty of free content available on their website. The online content is a refreshing take on a magazine as it is pure content.  

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Algae Turf Scrubbers: How They Work and Whether They’re Worth It for Reef Tanks

    Algae Turf Scrubbers: How They Work and Whether They’re Worth It for Reef Tanks

    Algae turf scrubbers came up repeatedly in my conversations at reef trade shows. hobbyists either swear by them or dismiss them entirely. I’ve looked closely at how they work, talked to reefers running them long-term, and compared the results against other nutrient export methods I’ve used in my own 125-gallon reef. My take is more nuanced than the enthusiasts or the skeptics: they work, under the right conditions, for the right systems.

    Algae turf scrubbers have been generating serious discussion in the reef hobby for years. and I think the debate is worth having. The core idea is clever: instead of fighting algae everywhere in your display tank, you grow it intentionally in a dedicated chamber under light, let it export nutrients as it grows, then harvest it. I run a 125-gallon reef, and nutrient export is always one of the more challenging ongoing management problems. ATS is a legitimate tool in that toolkit, though I’d say it works best as part of a layered approach rather than a magic bullet. Here’s what you actually need to know about how it works.

    This development is a game changer folks. So now that I have hyped it up a bit, let me explain what exactly an Algae Turf Scrubber is.

    What is an Algae Turf Scrubber (ATS)?

    An Algae Turf Scrubber is a filtration device that uses light to grow algae. Okay so that sounds odd – why would you want to grow algae right? It’s unsightly in the tank and a pain to remove from the tank after all. Well, the thing is algae can remove all sorts of nasties in your tank – Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrates, Phosphates, etc. They even act as chemical filtration and remove chemicals like copper from your tank! The problem is it looks ugly in your display tank.

    An algae scrubber purposely grows algae in your tank in a concentrated area so that it can do filtration for you. In fact, it has the ability to eliminate algae in your display tank since the area you grow your algae in will be so much more attractive for algae to thrive.

    How does it work?

    When Algae turf scrubbers were first around most of the hobby world who adopted them utilized Dr. Walter Adey’s dump tray style scrubber. The design relied primarily on the growth of red turf algae. This dump tray model had several drawbacks though. It was massive taking up a large amount of space. The dump trays would swing back and forth and be noisy. Many of these models were not operated correctly, which lead to some of the negative feedback you may likely hear from forums, stores, or other hobbyists.

    Dump Style Algae Turf Scrubber

     

    Enter the new Water Fall Style Algae Turf Scrubber Model

    After around 2008, a new bred of algae turf scrubbers was released. These models used a fixed screen that hangs on a waterfall-style water pipe and is illuminated by lights. These waterfall models excel at growing green hair algae and have a much smaller foot print then the dump tray models. This green hair alga is far superior to the red algae as it grows faster and has better nutrient export than the red algae grown in the dump tray models.

    These waterfall models have become very popular on hobbyist forums and there are multiple DIY applications for them along with success stories of hobbyists who have used them. Many of these DIY algae turf scrubber setups are so successful that they no longer use expensive equipment like protein skimmers, media reactors, bio-pellets, etc. They also reported incredible pod growth. The algae turf scrubbers would grow millions of baby pods, enough to feed Mandarin Gobies.

    DIY Algae Turf Scrubber

    These DIY models were wonderful. They were cheap to build, they produced great results, but something was missing. It was only available to DIYers! Not everyone in the hobby is a DIYer and the scrubber technology was patented for years so not a lot of ready-made products were available – until recently.

    The Birth of The Ready-Made That is For Sale

    With the patent expiring on the algae scrubber, products are now available to hobbyist for purchase. They are hard to find, but we have fortunately been working with a domestic manufacturer and have a Algae Turf Scrubber for sale. This unit from IceCap is one of the more affordable manufactured units on the market.

    I looked long and hard to find the right manufacturer who was developing a top-notch waterfall-style scrubber. The big difference between a DIY scrubber and a ready-made scrubber is the fact that the ready-made scrubbers are enclosed. They are made of top-quality acrylic and PVC. They easily connect with a pump and can be installed in sump. The lighting is powered by IP66 waterproof white light LEDs and adjustable spray bars for quiet operation.

    Algae Turf Scrubber

    These scrubbers growth incredibility rich green algae that should be cleaned out every 7 days. You can see examples of the harvest from these scrubbers below. We were blown away from the algae these models were producing!

    ATS Harvest
    ATS Harvest

    What do I do if I Already Have a Aquarium and Skimmer?

    Algae turf scrubbers are actually superior to protein skimmers because they do so much more. If you have a skimmer, I would recommend running both until you have pulled at least three full harvests of green algae from the algae turf scrubber. After that, try running the tank without the skimmer and monitor the results. As long as you are keeping up with the maintenance of the scrubber and regularly cleaning it, you will begin noticing that the tank is operating ideally without the skimmer.

    Eventually, you can make the decision to remove the skimmer completely or just run both. Running both is not necessary, but hobbyists like to run them as a backup. You will always pull with the skimmer using a scrubber, but that is because the skimmer and scrubber pull nutrients at different stages.

    A skimmer takes organics out of the water BEFORE they have time to break down into nitrates. They also remove some beneficial things such as coral food. They are plug and play, and very reliable, but they will not capture ALL of the nutrients.

    Algae Turf Scrubbers on the other hand remove nutrients AFTER they have already broken down. This ensures that all the little coral food particles float around in the water column so your corals get maximum exposure time to food. When you are ready to remove your skimmer – go sell it off and get what you really want- Corals and Fish!

    Why Don’t I Just Make One DIY?

    Because of the fact that Algae Turf Scrubbers were mostly available to DIYers, they were not plug-and play, took time to grow and dial in, and research was required to get the right amount of light and flow was needed to be successful. With a production model like ours, the vetting has been done and these models are just as plug-and-play as any protein skimmer. By purchasing a proven model, you ensure maximum success for your reef tank and avoid the frustration of having tweak your DIY to make sure it was done right.

    How Come I Have Never Heard Of These Before?

    For one thing, there was a patent on the design so there were not a lot of retail products out there. The second factor is more about our hobby. If you are a brand manufacturer, you are heavily invested in equipment like protein skimmers which sell for a lot of money. These scrubbers have the ability to make skimmers obsolete so there is a natural hesitation to adopt them. The third factor is retailers. We have a lot of inventory invested in equipment that we sell to customers.

    This is something I struggled with when looking at scrubbers, but after working with my manufacturer and seeing the results myself I feel that I have an obligation to the hobby to promote the scrubber and bring it to market. I have always run my store with the motto “We seek to simplify the hobby so the beginner can thrive.” The Algae Turf Scrubber IS simplification at its finest.  It’s natural, simple, and cheaper, and this innovation should be available to all hobbyists – not just DIYers.

    If you already have a tank, I ask you to try these Algae Turf Scrubbers out. If you are new to the hobby, we encourage you to set up your tank with an algae scrubber from the start and start it up after the tank’s cycle and initial algae boom. These models do not take up a lot of space and will save you money. I promise you will not be disappointed.

  • 5 Real Benefits of Keeping a Fish Tank at Home (Backed by Science)

    5 Real Benefits of Keeping a Fish Tank at Home (Backed by Science)

    I’ve had aquariums at home my entire adult life. and I genuinely believe keeping fish has made me calmer, more patient, and more observant. That’s not just anecdote. There’s real research backing up what hobbyists have known for decades: there are measurable mental and physical health benefits to keeping a home aquarium. After 25+ years in this hobby, here are the five benefits I’ve seen hold up consistently, both in the science and in my own experience.

    Thinking of keeping a fish tank at home? Not only is a home aquarium enjoyable, entertaining and a good hobby for any family member, it is also a proven benefit to your health. In a time where stress is at an all time high with pandemics, high work stress, and increased anxiety an aquarium can really help alleviate stress.

    And that’s not just me being bias about my 25 years in the hobby. My statements are backed up by various medical studies made over the years. It’s not secret that keeping a pet is great for your health, and aquarium fish are no exception. Let’s good though the various benefits in this post.

    An overview on the hobby

    According to a study made by the 2021 American Pet Products Association (APPA), fish are the third most popular pet behind dogs and cats and ahead from birds

    PetNumber (in Millions)
    Dog69.0
    Cat45.3
    Freshwater Fish11.8
    Bird9.9
    Small Animal6.2
    Reptile5.7
    Horse3.5
    Saltwater Fish2.9
    Source: American Pet Products Association’s 2021-2022 National Pet Owners Survey1

    Freshwater and saltwater fish are separated into two separate categories on this survey. Adding them both up, that is nearly 15 million aquarium owners in the US!

    The Top 5 Health Benefits of Home Aquariums

    1. Reduced levels of stress

    Do you have a stressful life, high blood pressure, insomnia? Studies have shown that aquarium may provide significant health benefits to you. Studies go back as far as the 80’s have shown that gazing at aquarium fish reduces stress and subsequently lowers blood pressure.  It’s no wonder why it is a common site to see aquariums in doctors and dentist lobbies – they have known about the stress reliving benefits for years!

    The recent study by the University of Exeter Medical School showed that exposure to natural environments and highly managed settings can have calming and stress relieving effects.

    Furthermore, the study found that there was an increased stress relieving and calming effect on fish, in particular tropical and marine fish.  There was a strong correlation between more biodiversity (fish and aquatic plants/corals) and reduced levels of stress and blood pressure.

    Reduced stress and blood pressure are great benefits, but it goes much further than that. According to the Women’s Heart Foundation, a number of aliments have been associated with with high stress levels in daily life including heart attacks, sleep disorders, and some ulcers.

    2. Improvements in Sleep Quality

    According to a survey conducted by the American Pet Products Associate, 66 percent of stated that their aquarium help relieve them of stress. Lower blood pressure and lower stress contributes to better sleep. After all, there is a sleep condition linked to high blood pressure and stress called Obstructive Sleep Apnea (OCA).

    We see even greater evidence in the hobby itself. I know of two such examples. The first is Travis from Fish of Hex. He was an ex-vet serving in the US Army who got deployed to Afghanistan from 2007-2008. He was diagnosed with PTSD after returning home and has stated on his about us page that keeping reef tanks has helped him cope ever since. He is so passionate about this, he created a Reef Tank for Veterans program where he builds reef tanks for sufferers of PTSD.

    3. Lowered blood pressure and heart rate

    Research has shown that keeping an aquarium can help lower blood pressure and heart rates. A study found that the presence of an aquarium reduced blood pressure and increased relaxation among patients of specialized dementia units.2

    4. Decreased pain and anxiety

    Ever wonder why so many dental offices have aquariums? It’s because the dentist know there are studies that show that dental patients viewing the aquariums in the waiting room experience less anxiety and need less pain medication3.

    In the linked study, the key factor was the living fish. Something about viewing fish swimming in an aquarium calms are minds down. It’s no wonder we see them everywhere at Dental offices.

    5. Calming effect for children and Alzheimer’s patients

    Another study made by Purdue University found that display tanks of brightly colored fish may curtail disruptive behaviors and improve the eating habits of those with Alzheimer’s disease. The study also revealed that the fish tanks stimulated cognitive thoughts in Alzheimer’s patients.

    Costs Of An Aquarium

    One of the biggest fears for beginners is the cost of keeping an aquarium. This fear comes from advanced hobbyists like reef tank owners or people who have made many mistakes in the past from their fish-keeping journey. Aquariums are not that expensive, especially if you go with a freshwater aquarium.

    Let’s compare the cost of keeping a fish to the two most popular pets in the US – cats and dogs. If we go to the ASPCA website, there is an article about annual costs for dogs and cats. According to their post, the annual cost of a dog is $1,391 while a cat is $1,149. Your initial one-time costs are $1,030 for dogs, and $455 for cats. This is before looking at grooming for a dog and dental for both pets. We total out to over $3,000 for the first year of ownership for a dog. See the summarized table below:

    TypeDogCatFreshwater Fish
    Annual Costs$1,391$1,149$100
    One-Time Cost$1,030$455$250
    Special Costs$800$300$25
    Total$3,221$1,904$375
    Source: ASPCA.org

    In the chart above, I’m comparing the cost of keeping a Dog or Cat vs. a 5-gallon freshwater fish tank. Here we can see that keeping a small freshwater fish tank can be nearly 10 times less than the cost of a Dog. Why did I pick a 5-gallon fish tank? Because in the freshwater hobby, the perfect fish for a 5-gallon fish tank is a betta fish. Betta fish are great individual pets, are highly rewarding, and you can bond with them as they are a single fish versus a community of fish.

    This setup listed is on the higher end, using a premium Fluval Spec V and accounting for a quality diet and a fancier Betta Type variety.

    Why Keep An Aquarium At Home?

    Betta in Planted Aquarium

    Now that we know the health benefits and the cost, let’s go into further detail why purchasing a fish tank and keeping is a good idea. Sure the health benefits are great, but what about the other reasons? They are a pet after all that requires responsibility. Let’s see what else they have to offer.

    Peace and Quiet

    One of the biggest downsides to keeping a dog that I have personally experienced is the noise factor. Some dogs can be loud with barking or particularly needy at times. Fish tanks can be noisy as well if you invest in cheap equipment.

    With the moderation of better filtration systems like canister filters, all-in-one fish tanks, and high-quality power filters an aquarium can be virtually silent.

    Education Opportunities for Kids

    it’s quite common in schools to have science projects involving aquatic animals. This is because a child can learn a lot about ecosystems, the nitrogen cycle, and identifying and treating aliments. It also can unfortunately a way to introduce kids to the concept of death.

    Perhaps I’m sounding morbid here, but I did remember the first time my youngest son Rhys had to see a yellow tang I quarantined that ended up passed away due to marine velvet. I did the right thing quarantining the fish since that disease didn’t go into my display tank. Still, I had to explain to my son what death was.

    Fish die in our hobby. Some fish live shorter lives than other pets and they can die for various reasons. The fact that I had to explain this to a pet first instead of a family member I felt was really helping in him understanding how the cycle of life worked.

    Small Footprint

    While it is true that aquariums can get very large and showy from shows like Tanked, we also know that smaller aquariums can fit on a desktop or countertop. With homes getting smaller from increased cost of living, it’s nice to have a pet option that doesn’t require a large backyard, a litter box, or a large bird cage.

    Most aquariums that people purchase in this hobby are going to be 2 feet in length or shorter. It’s when you jump into 3 foot + fish tanks where space can be an issue in the home. Stick to smaller fish tanks and you won’t have a space issue.

    Low Maintenance

    Dogs require a lot of attention. Larger breeds require to be walked several miles a day. Cat need a little box cleaned, which can get unslightly if not regularly kept up.

    I actually see a lot of similarities with cats and fish as both in general will be okay with an autonomous existence. The main difference is fish are in their own little world. They will be happy to see you feed them and are perfectly happy if you leave them alone. Many advanced hobbyist who perform aquascaping look at aquariums like living works of art.

    The maintenance of a simple setup is low with a smaller tank and sticking to freshwater systems. Water changes are fairly painless and cleaning the tank is less work than cleaning a little box.

    The Community

    The aquarium hobby is a huge community. There are regular tradeshows like Aquashella that celebrate the diversity of the hobby and local fish clubs are great for getting mentored and getting pro tips on advanced topics like fish breeding.

    Clubs are a great place to find friends and connect with other aquarium keepers. You can take the hobby further and enter competitions or learn to make money in the hobby by selling plants, baby fish, or even corals. The opportunities are endless in this hobby!

    Aesthetics

    If you are going for a large aquarium or more premium setup, the aesthetics of an aquarium have big benefits in a house. Large well designed home aquarium setups are centerpieces in rooms. Rimless aquariums really show well in homes. They can become a focal point, even a point of envy by some of your quests. Both the outside and inside of the aquarium can be show stoppers. Even the equipment is starting to look fancy!

    I’ve seen happy owners show off their aquariums to guest. They pop up their cabinet and show off their decked out sumps with an IPad display. It’s pretty crazy how some of the tools of our trade resemble tech toys now and as our hobby advances in technology we will see more smart tools being integrated in our aquariums.

    FAQs

    Do fish like being in tanks?

    In general, yes. In the freshwater side of the hobby, fish living in aquariums oftentimes live longer and healthier lives than their wild counterparts. Fish do not have the mental capacity like birds or dogs to like or dislike their situation, however, they will get stressed out of they are uncomfortable. If the fish are kept with a responsible owner, they have the potential to live long and healthy lives!

    Why is it good to have fish as a pet?

    Fish can be great to have as pets. Not only are they long-term cheaper than owning a cat and a dog, but they have also been proven in studies to reduce stress, improve sleep quality, lower blood pressure, reduce anxiety, improve focus, and have a calming effect.

    Is it good to have an aquarium in the house?

    It is a good idea to have an aquarium in the house. Studies from the University of Exeter Medical school showed that there was stress relief and a calming effect with keeping fish.

    Is it okay to have an aquarium in your bedroom?

    Yes, it is okay to have a fish tank in your bedroom. However, there are a few things to note. Having an aquarium will increase the humidity. There is also a noise factor if you have equipment that is loud. For bedroom or study areas, using higher-end equipment like canister filters will keep noise levels down.

    Closing Thoughts

    If you are looking for a stress management activity, you might consider maintaining a home aquarium or an aquarium in your workplace. Many people maintain a home aquarium as a stress management hobby.  Check out our blog about setting up a saltwater tank or check out our store and shop around for aquarium supplies and equipment.

  • 5 Steps to Consider When Selecting a Saltwater Tank (From a 25-Year Hobbyist)

    Choosing your first saltwater tank is a decision I see beginners rush through. and it sets up problems that are hard to undo. I’ve set up tanks ranging from a small 30-gallon FOWLR to my current 125-gallon SPS reef, and each taught me something about what really matters at the selection stage. Get this right and everything downstream gets easier. Here are the five questions I always walk first-timers through.

    Picking the right saltwater tank is a decision most beginners don’t give enough thought. and it shapes every purchase that follows. After 25 years in this hobby, the best advice I can give before you buy anything is simple: slow down and plan. The tank itself is just the start of a series of decisions about equipment, livestock, maintenance, and budget. In this guide I walk through 5 key steps I’d take before selecting any saltwater aquarium. working through these upfront prevents a lot of expensive course corrections later.

    Step 1 – Budget

    I’m not going to sugar coat it.  A fish tank in general is expensive and a saltwater tank is even more expensive.  If you put me on the spot without any research whatsoever and ask me “how much a saltwater tank setup will cost” my answer is “At least $1,000.”  Keep in mind, however, that a lot of the costs will be upfront investments in the tank, equipment, rock, stand, substrates, etc.  You can certainty spend less on a smaller setup and can cut cut with DIY work or used equipment, but I am going to assume that you are not a big DIYer.  Over time, as you get more advanced in this hobby, it is natural to begin DIY solutions, but beginners should generally stay away from DIY. Set your budget and continue your research from there.

    Step 2. Determine How Big of a Tank You Can Keep/Afford

    After you determined your budget, it’s time to determine how big of a tank you can keep. Tanks come in a variety of size, but there are four rules to keep in mind that will help with your selection:

    1. The more gallons, the more stability – bigger is better
    2. The longer the tank, the more room for fish to swim
    3. The wider the tank, the easier to aquascape
    4. The taller the tank, the harder for maintenance

    With these rules explained, tanks are usually divided by lengths.  The key lengths are 2, 3, 4, and 6 feet.  Most tank manufacturers do not produce 5 foot length tanks and if you find one, you may have a hard time getting a stand.  I recommend 3, 4, or 6 foot length tanks. 3 feet I feel is the best length for those on a budget or a beginner.  4 feet allows for a complete mixed reef setup and most lighting systems are designed for 4 foot aquariums.  6 feet in length is when you get to the territory of being able to house larger fish like tangs.

    Tank height is another consideration.  When you go over two feet in height, you will have additional room for fish to swim up and down instead of just side to side, but you will sacrifice ease of maintenance.  Saltwater tanks more than 2 feet in height will be out of reach for most hobbyist’s hands so you will have trouble cleaning algae.

    Step 3. Where to Put your Tank

    Your aquarium is going to be a sizable investment and will easily become the showcase and talk of your home.  When friends and family visit your home, everyone is going to want to see your tank.  Because of this, you really want your aquarium in a place where you can enjoy it on a daily basis.  That being said, there are a few rules to follow when it comes to placement:

    1. Keep your tank out of direct sunlight – this will lead to spikes in temperature and algae outbreaks
    2. Think of the first floor of your home or basement before upstairs – any tank over 40 gallons in size is going to weigh a sizable amount.  Tank water is about 8 pounds per gallon and then you will have sand and rock as part of the mix.  If your tank will be directly placed on a floor that is part of the foundation, there are virtually no concerns with placement.
    3. Place your tank near an outlet – or get one installed by an electrician.  Your tank is going to be using power to run and so the closer the better.  Make sure it is on its own circuit if you plan on having a tank more than 40 gallons as a fully setup aquarium will draw a lot of power.
    4. Do not place your tank directly below a vent –  heating and A/C vents can drastically change the temperature of your aquarium.  Having a stable water temperature is critical to a healthy aquarium.  Placing your tank away from a vent will prevent this issue.
    5. If you are dead set on having an aquarium upstairs – hire a structural contractor to get advice if you are going to place a 40+ gallon tank upstairs. Better safe than sorry.  A couple hundred dollars could be worth tens and thousands of dollars of prevented repairs.
    6. Level the area – if your placement is a slightly off-level, get some shims to adjust.  If the location is way off level – consider another spot

    Flooring is another consideration to keep in mind.  The most ideal floor for a tank would be directly on a foundation or on top of tile.  Carpet can be risky because water spills will eventually build mold in the padding. Laminate can also be hit or miss, with only the higher quality laminates been ideal and sealing being key.  Hardwood floors are not ideal because the saltwater from your tank can eventually wrap the hardwood.   You can seal your hardwood, but it is at your risk.  If you have a spill, you will need to clean it up right away.  Having a wet/dry vacuum can be a lifesaver for such times.

    Step 4. Standard, All in One, Reef Ready, or Custom Tank

    In the industry there are four types of tanks you find available for purchase:

    • Standard Aquariums – Usually found at general pet stores
    • Reef Ready Aquariums – Pre-drilled and ready for a sump
    • All-In-One Aquariums – Pre-designed for ease of use
    • Custom Built Aquariums – Very expensive, but showcase quality

    Standard aquariums are mass produced aquariums made with glass. They are of good quality and will come with black trim and rims to provide structural support.  The vast majority of these tanks will have tempered glass on the bottom of the tank, which will limit your drilling of tank if you chose to do so to the back of the aquarium.  Many hobbyists will purchase these tanks and customize them by drilling them and even painting the back of the tank.  Standard aquariums are the best choice for a budget conscious build.

    Reef Ready Aquariums are aquariums that are pre-drilled and will come with an overflow system.  An overflow system is designed to skim the water surface of your aquarium to pull dissolved organics and waste out of your tank.  These tanks are designed to work with a sump setup.  A reef ready aquarium is the best choice for flexibility and long-term investment.  They provide the best starting point for a hobbyist looking to build a complete system.  The main advantage from a reef ready system over a drilled standard tank is that the reef ready tanks are drilled at the bottom.  This allows you to setup a very clean and seamless look in the back of the tank without pipes sticking out.  Many of the new reef ready tanks coming out these days are coming equipped with innovative overflow systems as well.  If you want to start out on the best foot possible, a reef ready tank is the way to go.

    All-In-One Aquariums are a recent development in the industry.  They are tanks complete with overflows and even sumps to provide either a fully integrated system or as close to a plug and play solution as possible.  Some All-In-One will have a Sump in the back of the tank, which will eliminate plumbing that would be required in a sump setup.  All-In-One Aquariums can be more expensive then a fully setup Reef Ready Aquarium and can have limitations over a customized setup.  One of the biggest limitations is the equipment you can place in it.  For example, sometimes the protein skimmer chamber may be very small so you will be limited on the type of skimmer you can place or the sump that comes with the all-in-one may not have room for a refugium. If you are looking for ease of use and seamless look (as many of these tanks have wonderful aesthetics), an All-In-One Aquarium would be the choice for you.

    Jimmy Butler’s Custom Boom Box Aquarium as seen on “Tanked”

    Custom Built Aquariums are the most expensive setups.  You can obtain an extremely unique and world class look.  Custom tank makers are usually found locally as custom aquarium makers are very seasoned hobbyists or companies that create custom aquariums.  If you want the “Tanked” look, a custom built aquarium is where to look to.

    Step 5 – Glass vs. Acrylic


     Glass vs. acrylic is a common debate when it comes to tank selection.  Below is a table to show the strengths and weaknesses of glass and acrylic:

    CharacteristicGlass Acrylic
    WeightGlass is usually about 4 times heavier than acrylic and up to 10 times heavier on larger aquariumsLightweight and easier to move
    Breaking and CrackingWith a strong enough force – Glass will crack and leakVery impact resistant
    SupportGlass can support itself over distances so they can be placed in stands with an open top with little to no riskNeeds support throughout the length of the tank.  Stands are limited due to this.
    ClarityThe thicker the glass, the more noticeable the distortion.  Distortion can be mitigated in thicker glass by the use of low-iron glass.No distortion in clarity – superior to glass even against low-iron glass.
    ScratchingVery difficult to scratch.  You can even clean algae with a razor blade and be fine with glassProne to scratching.  Fish with strong jaws can directly scratch acrylic and you can even scratch the outside accidentally with jewelry.  The outside scratches, however, can be repaired with a repair kit.
    CostGenerally cheaper and mass-producedGenerally more expensive due to shipping

    Overall, I would recommend going with a glass aquarium as the pros outweigh the cons.  You might want to consider acrylic or even plywood though if you are considering a tank over 500 gallons due to the weight and clarity issues of glass.

    Closing Remarks

    I hope this guide was very useful to you.  Here at AquariumStoreDepot, we like to pass down knowledge to our customers.  A well informed customer is a successful hobbyist and will enjoy this hobby for years to come.  We would be happy to guide you on your journey to saltwater reefing!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Aquarium Stand Selection Guide – 5 Things You Must Check Before Buying

    Aquarium Stand Selection Guide – 5 Things You Must Check Before Buying

    An aquarium stand is one of those purchases people treat as an afterthought. and I’ve seen that mistake end badly. A 125-gallon tank full of water weighs over 1,400 pounds, and a stand that isn’t rated for that load or isn’t level is a disaster waiting to happen. I’ve bought and assembled stands for multiple setups over the years and know exactly what to check before committing. Here are the five things I always verify first.

    An aquarium stand is one of the most important pieces of equipment you’ll buy. and one of the most overlooked. I learned this the hard way: a stand that can’t handle the weight or isn’t perfectly level will cause serious problems, and at 125 gallons (over 1,200 lbs fully loaded) the stakes are very real. Whether you’re buying a stand for a 20 gallon community tank or a large saltwater system, there are five things I always check before recommending any stand, and this guide walks through all of them.

    #1 Know the Type of Aquarium Stand

    Before I can get into more detail about aquarium stands, we need to address the various types of aquarium stands you will come across.  When shopping for an aquarium stand, there is a high amount of variety in quality.  When it comes to a saltwater aquarium and larger freshwater aquariums, the importance of quality needs to be taken into account. and when it comes to the needs of a saltwater aquarium. The importance of quality needs to be taken into account. We are going to break down stands into four types:

    • Standard Aquarium Stands – AKA big store stands
    • Brand Name Stands
    • Custom Built Stands
    • DIY Stand

    A standard aquarium stand is ones you will commonly find in a general pet store or online like the All Glass Pine Stands. They are typically made of particle board and MDF.  Many of these stands are made as cheap as possible.  While they can work in a freshwater setup or no sump setups, they will not suit the needs of a saltwater tank or larger freshwater aquarium in the long run.  The reason why is because if a sump is installed the stand, the high humidity produced inside the tank from the sump can cause wrapping from the inside of the stand.  Furthermore, spills inside of the stand from maintenance can also cause problems.  Once the warping occurs, the damage cannot be reversed and can compromise the structure of the stand. It is for these reasons, that I do not recommend a standard aquarium stand from general pet stores for a saltwater or larger freshwater setup.  There is simply too much investment made into your tank setup for it to be ruined by going cheap on a stand.

    A Better Option
    Aquatic Fundamentals Stand
    Aquatic Fundamentals Stand

    A cleaner and more modern looking stand over the old all glass stands

    Buy On Amazon

     A brand name stand is furniture made by high-end manufacturers who specialize in making stands for hobbyist.  The best example of these stands would be the stands that you find in all-in-one aquariums and rimless aquarium kits.  These stands are very well designed with a wood or metal frame (typically aluminum or stainless steel).  If they are wood, they will usually be designed with plywood instead of MDF.  They will often have features that suit the hobby (Storage shelves, cable ports, etc). A common brand at fish stores are R&J Enterprises cabinets, which are a step up from the chain store cabinets. These stands are great choices for anyone getting into the hobby.

    Best For Planted Tanks
    UNS Aquarium Stand
    UNS Aquarium Stand

    UNS are top of the line aquarium stands designed for planted tanks

    Click For Best Price

    A stand is typically built by custom aquarium manufacturers or Brand name specializing in high-end builds.  They are typically made to order and are the most expensive types of aquarium stand.  They can be made of wood or metal.  They will typically be designed with customized cabinet doors and shelves to suit the requirements of the aquarium.  They are of superior quality, but suited for a high-end budget.

    Custom Fish Tank Stand
    Custom Fish Stands are Usually Built for Maximum Utility

    #2 Know the Materials

    There are several types of materials for a stand that you should be familiar with when looking at either purchasing or building your own:

    • MDF/Particle Board
    • Plywood
    • Metal

    MDF or particle board is the cheapest type of wood used for stand manufacturing.  It is commonly used with store chain brand stands or stands that are imported. They usually do not hold up in a saltwater aquarium because of the high humidity from your sump or wrapping over time.  MDF would only be okay to use if you are either hiring a carpenter to build your stand or you are familiar with woodworking and know how to paint and seal it.  

    Plywood is the standard when it comes to quality aquarium stand building.  It is typically used in higher-end branded stands and is the go-to material if you are considering a DIY stand.  Plywood is a very strong building material and less susceptible to water damage than MDF.  Plywood is also the material used to build higher-end kitchen cabinets due to its durability.  It is stainable and several veneers are available for you to produce a custom look.  They can be painted or sealed and the quality of the material will stand the test of time.

    A metal stand is typically used for larger aquariums.  They have great structural support and a mix of metal and wood can be used to build a custom stand. Because of the greater structural strength, a metal stand will be more open which will increase your access to your sump and back-end electronics stored in your stand.   Metal frames are usually made with stainless steel or aluminum. Aluminum is particularly popular outside of the US, but is gaining traction in the US as they are lightweight. A stand built from T-Slot Aluminum Framing Systems is particularly useful for those attempting a custom build for a large aquarium – though can be very expensive.

    Metal Aquarium StandMetal Stands are Typically Used for Large Custom Aquariums

    #3 Know about Openings and Stand Heights of your Tank

    In general, a stand will be open at the top.  While this will work well for glass aquariums, you will need to support the entire bottom of the tank if it is made of acrylic. For rimless aquariums, it is recommended that you purchase a self-leveling mat. This is because, in a rimless aquarium, the wood can cause pressure points in the glass.  Many manufacturers will sell the support needed for an acrylic and rimless tank.  It is helpful to have an opening at the top if you are going to place a sizable sump as sometimes when the sump is placed in the stand, it will be impossible to move out of the aquarium stand once your tank is installed.

    Another consideration when purchasing or making a stand is the amount of room available for equipment underneath the aquarium. Large door openings and plentiful space help in hiding the amount of equipment associated with reef aquariums. If you plan on keeping a sump under your aquarium, you will need to consider having enough room to hold all your equipment and sump while still having room to maintain it. One of the main disadvantages of many standard aquarium stands is that they have a brace in the middle of the stand that will get in the way of maintenance. Many high-end and DIY aquarium stand configurations do not have this brace.

    The height of the stand will also impact your viewing enjoyment. Ask yourself if you are going to be spending most of your viewing time standing or sitting.  A standard sized aquarium stand is built for viewing while sitting down and will usually be shorter than 30 inches. Many of the all-in-one aquariums and higher end aquarium stands these days will have taller stands – usually 30 to 36 inches. Most DIYers will also build a stand to 36 inches in height.

    #4 Consider a DIY for Maximum Utility

    Making a stand versus purchasing one is a serious consideration for experienced reefers or those with carpentry skills.  Purchasing a stand is typically going to be more expensive, but you will not have to worry about constructing the stand yourself and if you are following this guide it is very likely you will end up purchasing a high-quality stand that will last throughout your aquarium journey.

    For those of you considering a DIY aquarium stand, most of the DIY stands are constructed out of wood.  Below is a picture frame and guide from the reefcentral forums by member RocketEngineer.  This is a 21 piece design that has been used by many reefers who have ventured into DIY stands.   This is a simple yet solid design that can be created with the use of common tools and common wood sizes and should work for most standard size aquariums:

    DIY Aquarium StandThe basic principle of the design is two box frames connected by four legs. The legs are made of several pieces of 2X4’s to assist in construction and seething the stand in plywood for strength and cosmetics. The bottom frame transmits the load of the tank into the floor. Covering the sides of the stand with plywood will help to stiffen the stand against twisting and shifting. Doors could then be mounted to the legs as desired.  The design can also be modified to include flooring at the bottom of the tank.

    If you want more of a step by guide to building a custom stand, you can check out GARF’s stand calculator. This calculator is a great tool as all you do is enter in your desired dimensions and the calculator will product a cut list, tools needed, and assembly instructions.

    When painting your stand, considering sealing the inside of your stand with a Spar or Marine Varnish. An oil based primer is ideal.

    #5 Canopy or No Canopy

    With the advent of rimless aquariums and ceiling and tank mounted lighting systems, the canopy is starting to become less common these days.  It’s really up to you regarding the look of your aquarium.  Not purchasing a canopy can save you some money, but there are still a number of hobbyists who still use them.  If you are concerned about fish jumping out of your tank with a topless system, you can opt for mesh screening to prevent jumping. 

    Ceiling Hung Aquarium LightingTop-Less Setups are More Common Now with Rimless Aquariums

    Closing Comments

    I hope this guide provides you with a lot of insights on what to look for when it comes to selecting a quality aquarium stand.  A stand in a key part of your aquarium and needs to stand the test of time. Please share and thank you for reading.

    🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Saltwater Aquarium Selection Guide: How to Choose the Right Tank From the Start

    Saltwater Aquarium Selection Guide: How to Choose the Right Tank From the Start

    The saltwater aquarium you start with shapes everything that comes after. your equipment choices, your livestock options, your maintenance routine. I’ve watched beginners pick tanks that were too small for their goals, or all-in-ones that couldn’t be upgraded, and they ended up restarting from scratch within a year. After setting up and advising on dozens of reef systems over 25 years, I have a clear picture of what actually matters when you’re making this choice.

    The saltwater aquarium you choose at the start determines nearly every other decision you’ll make. what equipment fits, what fish you can keep, what your maintenance looks like long-term, and what your total budget needs to be. After 25 years in this hobby and helping countless people set up their first saltwater tanks, the advice I give most often contradicts what beginners expect: bigger tanks are more stable and more forgiving, not harder. The “start small” instinct usually leads to frustration. And the tank itself is just the beginning of the budget conversation. In this guide I walk through everything you need to consider when selecting a saltwater aquarium.

    Saltwater Aquarium

    Owning a successful aquarium depends greatly on the time of time spent planning and researching the setup for the fish and/or corals you choose to have.  There are a large number of choices when it comes to tank selection.  This article should provide you some in-depth detail on saltwater fish tank selection and what to look for when purchasing an aquarium.

    Saltwater Aquarium Budget

    I’m not going to sugarcoat it.  A fish tank in general is expensive and a saltwater tank is even more expensive.  If you put me on the spot without any research whatsoever and ask me “how much a saltwater tank setup will cost” my answer is “At least $1,000.”  Keep in mind, however, that a lot of the costs will be upfront investments in the tank, equipment, rock, stand, substrates, etc.  You can certainty spend less on a smaller setup and can cut cut with DIY work or used equipment, but I am going to assume that you are not a big DIYer.  Over time, as you get more advanced in this hobby, it is natural to begin DIY solutions, but beginners should generally stay away from DIY.  If you are going to DIY, I would suggest you join a local aquarium society.  There are plenty of very seasoned hobbyists in an aquarium society who will be more than willing to teach you the ropes or even offer to do DIY solutions for cheap (e.g. – drill your tank or build you a sump).  

    Aquarium SocietyAquarium Societies are Treasure Troves of Knowledge

    Saltwater Tank Size

    Tanks come in a variety of size, but there are four rules to keep in mind that will help with your selection:

    1. The more gallons, the more stability – bigger is better
    2. The longer the tank, the more room for fish to swim
    3. The wider the tank, the easier to aquascape
    4. The taller the tank, the harder for maintenance

    With these rules explained, tanks are usually divided by lengths.  The key lengths are 2, 3, 4, and 6 feet.  Most tank manufacturers do not produce 5 foot length tanks and if you find one, you may have a hard time getting a stand.  I recommend 3, 4, or 6 foot length tanks. 3 feet I feel is the best length for those on a budget or a beginner.  4 feet allows for a complete mixed reef setup and most lighting systems are designed for 4 foot aquariums.  6 feet in length is when you get to the territory of being able to house larger fish like tangs.

    40 Gallon BreederA beautiful 3 foot 40 Gallon Breeder tank

    Tank height is another consideration.  When you go over two feet in height, you will have additional room for fish to swim up and down instead of just side to side, but you will sacrifice ease of maintenance.  Saltwater tanks more than 2 feet in height will be out of reach for most hobbyist’s hands so you will have trouble cleaning algae.

    Tank Placement

    Your aquarium is going to be a sizable investment and will easily become the showcase and talk of your home.  When friends and family visit your home, everyone is going to want to see your tank.  Because of this, you really want your aquarium in a place where you can enjoy it on a daily basis.  That being said, there are a few rules to follow when it comes to placement:

    1. Keep your tank out of direct sunlight – this will lead to spikes in temperature and algae outbreaks
    2. Think of the first floor of your home or basement before upstairs – any tank over 40 gallons in size is going to weigh a sizable amount.  Tank water is about 8 pounds per gallon and then you will have sand and rock as part of the mix.  If your tank will be directly placed on a floor that is part of the foundation, there are virtually no concerns with placement.
    3. Place your tank near an outlet – or get one installed by an electrician.  Your tank is going to be using power to run and so the closer the better.  Make sure it is on its own circuit if you plan on having a tank of more than 40 gallons as a full-setup aquarium will draw a lot of power.
    4. Do not place your tank directly below a vent –  heating and A/C vents can drastically change the temperature of your aquarium.  Having a stable water temperature is critical to a healthy aquarium.  Placing your tank away from a vent will prevent this issue.
    5. If you are dead set on having an aquarium upstairs – hire a structural contractor to get advice if you are going to place a 40+ gallon tank upstairs. Better safe than sorry.  A couple of hundred dollars could be worth tens and thousands of dollars of prevented repairs.
    6. Level the area – if your placement is slightly off-level, get some shims to adjust.  If the location is way off-level – consider another spot
    Fish Tank Living RoomAn Aquarium is Best Placed Away from Direct Sunlight

    Flooring

    Flooring is another consideration to keep in mind.  The most ideal floor for a tank would be directly on a foundation or on top of the tile.  Carpet can be risky because water spills will eventually build mold in the padding. Laminate can also be hit or miss, with only the higher quality laminates being ideal and sealing being key.  Hardwood floors are not ideal because the saltwater from your tank can eventually wrap the hardwood.   You can seal your hardwood, but it is at your risk.  If you have a spill, you will need to clean it up right away.  Having a wet/dry vacuum can be a lifesaver for such times.

    Shape of Fish Tanks

    You will find multiple shapes if you go shopping for an aquarium.  We are going to focus on the four most popular on the market

    • Rectangle – Most flexible and ideal shape for fish, width can be an issue in long formats
    • Corner – Good for corner setups, but sacrifices on swimming space
    • Bowfront – Great for viewing, but more expensive than rectangle shaped
    • Cube – Great for coral aquascaping, but sacrifices length for larger fish

    Our recommendation is to go with a rectangular tank.  They offer the most flexibility, most economical, and most fish will prefer long over tall setups.

    Types of Tanks

    In the industry there are four types of tanks you find available for purchase:

    • Standard Aquariums – Usually found at general pet stores
    • Reef Ready Aquariums – Pre-drilled and ready for a sump
    • All-In-One Aquariums – Pre-designed for ease of use
    • Custom Built Aquariums – Very expensive, but showcase quality
    Standard AquariumStandard Glass Aquarium

    Standard aquariums are mass-produced aquariums made with glass. They are of good quality and will come with black trim and rims to provide structural support.  The vast majority of these tanks will have tempered glass on the bottom of the tank, which will limit your drilling of the tank if you chose to do so to the back of the aquarium.  Many hobbyists will purchase these tanks and customize them by drilling them and even painting the back of the tank.  Standard aquariums are the best choice for a budget-conscious build.

    Reef Ready Aquarium
    Reef Ready Tank

    Reef Ready Aquariums are aquariums that are pre-drilled and will come with an overflow system.  An overflow system is designed to skim the water surface of your aquarium to pull dissolved organics and waste out of your tank.  These tanks are designed to work with a sump setup.  A reef ready aquarium is the best choice for flexibility and long-term investment.  They provide the best starting point for a hobbyist looking to build a complete system.  The main advantage from a reef ready system over a drilled standard tank is that the reef ready tanks are drilled at the bottom.  This allows you to setup a very clean and seamless look in the back of the tank without pipes sticking out.  Many of the new reef ready tanks coming out these days are coming equipped with innovative overflow systems as well.  If you want to start out on the best foot possible, a reef ready tank is the way to go.

    Innovative Marine All-In-One Aquarium
    All-In-One Tank

    All-In-One Aquariums are a recent development in the industry.  They are tanks complete with overflows and even sumps to provide either a fully integrated system or as close to a plug-and-play solution as possible.  Some All-In-One will have a Sump in the back of the tank, which will eliminate plumbing that would be required in a sump setup.  All-In-One Aquariums can be more expensive then a full setup Reef Ready Aquarium and can have limitations over a customized setup.  One of the biggest limitations is the equipment you can place in it.  For example, sometimes the protein skimmer chamber may be very small so you will be limited on the type of skimmer you can place or the sump that comes with the all-in-one may not have room for a refugium.   If you are looking for ease of use and a seamless look (as many of these tanks have wonderful aesthetics), an All-In-One Aquarium would be the choice for you.

    Jimmy Butler Aquarium
    Jimmy Butler’s Custom Boom Box Tank as seen on “Tanked”

    Custom Built Aquariums are the most expensive setups.  You can obtain an extremely unique and world-class look.  Custom tank makers are usually found locally as custom aquarium makers are very seasoned hobbyists or companies that create custom aquariums.  If you want the “Tanked” look, a custom-built aquarium is where to look to.

    Glass vs. Acrylic Tanks

    Glass vs. acrylic is a common debate when it comes to tank selection.  Below is a table to show the strengths and weaknesses of glass and acrylic:

    CharacteristicGlass Acrylic
    WeightGlass is usually about 4 times heavier than acrylic and up to 10 times heavier on larger aquariumsLightweight and easier to move
    Breaking and CrackingWith a strong enough force – Glass will crack and leakVery impact resistant
    SupportGlass can support itself over distances so they can be placed in stands with an open top with little to no riskNeeds support throughout the length of the tank.  Stands are limited due to this.
    ClarityThe thicker the glass, the more noticeable the distortion.  Distortion can be mitigated in thicker glass by the use of low-iron glass.No distortion in clarity – superior to glass even against low-iron glass.
    ScratchingVery difficult to scratch.  You can even clean algae with a razor blade and be fine with glassProne to scratching.  Fish with strong jaws can directly scratch acrylic and you can even scratch the outside accidentally with jewelry.  The outside scratches, however, can be repaired with a repair kit.
    CostGenerally cheaper and mass-producedGenerally more expensive due to shipping

    Overall, I would recommend going with a glass aquarium as the pros outweigh the cons.  You might want to consider acrylic or even plywood though if you are considering a tank over 500 gallons due to the weight and clarity issues of glass.

    Drilling vs. Not Drilling a Tank

    A common consideration when one is deciding between a standard tank or reef-ready tank is drilling vs. not drilling.  There are many benefits to drilling your tank – the most beneficial being the inclusion of a sump.  When you drill your tank and install a sump, your setup becomes extremely flexible with equipment.  You will be able to purchase the best equipment, hide everything outside of the tank, be able to build a section for beneficial reef organisms (known as a refugium), install tank maintenance automation (auto water top-offs, controllers, and dosing pumps), and a separate work area for most of your maintenance outside of your display tank.  You miss out on all this flexibility when you do not drill and going from a not drilled to a drilled setup would require a hang-on overflow.  Hang-on overflows have usually been fail-prone, the main reason why we chose not to carry them.  The drilling decision is something made early on because of the large amount of work required to transition to a drilled setup.  Therefore, I feel that it is best to strongly consider a drilled setup from the start.

    Drilling Fish TankA Standard Tank Can be Drilled with Basic Power Tools

    Rimmed vs. Rimless Fish Tanks

    Rimmed tanks have been the tried and true traditional aquarium type for many years.  There has been a development of rimless tanks that have a very modern, aesthetically pleasing look.  Many higher-end aquariums you will come across will have rimless designs.  They are very beautiful aquariums, with main drawback being the price difference and water possibility leaking out when you clean algae near the top of the tank.  You can’t go wrong either way.

    Rimless TankRimless Tanks Have Great Aesthetics!

    Low-Iron vs. Traditional Glass Tanks

    These days, there are tanks you can purchase that have what the industry calls “low-iron” or “high-clarity” glass.  This is glass with low amounts of iron, which remove the green tint you may see from a standard tank.  It is a softer glass that will scratch easier than traditional glass (though still way more scratch resistant than acrylic).  Low-iron glass is more expensive than traditional glass, but some manufacturers will opt for just the front of the tank to be low-iron while the rest of the tank is traditional glass.  The most important place to have low-iron glass is on the front, so if you are considering the price, low-iron on the front of the tank only can achieve a good balance of cost and clarity.  Low-iron tanks also tend to come into play on larger tanks.  If you are considering a small tank (3 feet or less), the difference is likely going to be minimal between the two glass types. 

    Low Iron GlassLow-Iron on the Left, Traditional Glass on the Right

    Closing Remarks

    I hope this guide was very useful to you.  Here at AquariumStoreDepot, we like to pass down knowledge to our customers.  A well-informed customer is a successful hobbyist and will enjoy this hobby for years to come.  If you are past these steps and looking into what livestock might work with your tank, check our Top 10 Best Saltwater Fish for Any Reef Tank post.  We would be happy to guide you on your journey to saltwater reefing!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.