Hatchetfish are the only freshwater fish that can genuinely fly. They launch themselves out of the water using powerful pectoral muscles, and they will do it right out of your tank if you give them the chance. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. It is the single non-negotiable requirement for keeping any hatchetfish species.
Hatchetfish fly. Your lid is either tight or your fish is on the floor. There is no in-between.
The Reality of Keeping Hatchetfish
The jumping is not a behavior problem. It is instinct. In the wild, hatchetfish jump to escape predators and catch flying insects. In your tank, any sudden disturbance, a loud noise, a fast-moving hand near the glass, or a startled tank mate can trigger a jump. A lid is not optional. It is the most critical piece of equipment for this species.
They are strict surface dwellers. Hatchetfish spend virtually all their time at the surface. They do not explore the middle or bottom of the tank. This makes them perfect for filling the top layer of a community setup, but it also means surface agitation from filters or airstones stresses them. They need calm water.
They are more sensitive than most tetras. Hatchetfish are wild-caught more often than tank-bred, and they are more sensitive to water quality fluctuations than common community tetras. Stable parameters and gentle acclimation are essential. They are not a good choice for new or unstable tanks.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Not having a proper lid. I cannot stress this enough. Hatchetfish will find gaps you did not know existed. Every opening around filter intakes, heater cords, or airline tubing needs to be sealed.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Hatchetfish are one of the most fascinating freshwater species you can keep, but they demand a lid and calm conditions. When properly housed, they are the best surface-dwelling fish in the hobby by a wide margin.
Key Takeaways
Hatchetfish get their name from their unique ‘Hatchet-like’ body shape.
It is a peaceful community fish that enjoys the company of at least 6 to 12 fish.
They are the only true flying fish with large pectoral muscles that work like wings.
Many species of hatchetfish have bioluminescence with their own pattern of lights in order to communicate, attract prey, and camouflage.
An Overview Of The Fish Species
Scientific Name
Gasteropelecus sternicla
Common Names
River hatchetfish, common hatchetfish, silver hatchetfish
Family
Gasteropelecidae
Origin
South America in Brazil and in the southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin
Diet
Omnivore
Care Level
Moderate
Activity
Moderate
Lifespan
5 years
Temperament
Peaceful
Tank Level
Surface dwellers
Minimum Tank Size
20 gallons
Temperature Range
72. 81° F
Water Hardness
2 – 15 dGH
pH Range
6.0. 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow
Moderate
Water Type
Freshwater
Breeding
Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed
Difficult
Compatibility
Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?
Yes
Classification
Order
Characiformes
Family
Gasteropelecidae
Genus
Carnegiella / Gasteropelecus / Thoracocharax
Species
Multiple species across three genera
ASD Difficulty Rating: Intermediate | 6/10
Hatchetfish are surface specialists with two non-negotiable requirements: a tight-fitting lid and soft, slightly acidic water. They are not difficult once you understand those needs, but they expose sloppy setups fast.
Origin And Habitat
Linnaeus in 1758 discovered the common hatchetfish; Gasteropelecus sternicla species. They originate in South America in Brazil and mainly in south and central America (Southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin). Common hatchetfish are also found in the small streams of Guyana and Surinam with dense vegetation (floating aquatic plants).
In their natural habitat, they are found in regions that are densely populated with aquatic plants. In the wild, the common hatchetfish are mostly found at the water surface and retreat occasionally when threatened or in danger. Mostly, you will find these fish species flying from the surface of the water, trying to catch flying insects.
Fun Fact: Certain hatchetfish species participate in the largest migration in the world, migrating from 1,500 meters (about 5,000 feet) of depth to shallower seas. They gather with their twilight zone neighbors in the shadows to eat at the zooplankton feast, where they consume crustaceans, copepods, floating fish larvae, mosquito larvae, and ostracods. But as soon as the sun comes up, it's time to head back to the twilight zone. The hatchetfish has no control over when the axe will fall.
The Definition Of Hatchetfish
The common hatchetfish species go by their scientific name, Gasteropelecus sternicla. They are known for their unique but strange-looking body that looks like the head of the hatchet. Hence, the term Gasteropelecus in their scientific name also refers to a hatched-shaped belly.
One of the leading reasons for their popularity is not their particular body shape, but their ability to leap from the water’s surface and fly through the air. River hatchetfish or common hatchetfish can also flap their large pectoral fins and catch flying insects. Thus, in the fish-keeping world, the hatchetfish bag the title of the only true flying fish.
Species of hatchetfish are able to fly more than 4 feet and move their pectoral fins like a bird’s wings in the air. As astounding as it sounds, the flying power of hatchetfish is a problem in hatchetfish aquariums as this ability also develops the need for a tight-fitting lid.
Characteristics
The common hatchetfish are small, shiny silverfish with a hatchet-shaped bodies. They are tropical fish found in mostly warm temperature regions at a depth of around 200 to 1000 meters.
Hatchetfish have deep bodies that are flattened from side to side. The tails are slender with big eyes. The common hatchetfish are often mistaken as their cousin relative, the silver hatchetfish. However, the common hatchetfish species are slightly larger than the Silver hatchetfish.
What Is The Average Size Of These Tropical Fish Species?
The average size of Hatchetfish is around 2.6 inches in captivity. However, the wild-caught fish is a bit smaller in size, around 1 1/2 inches.
How Long Do They Live?
On average, hatchetfish lives for about 3 to 5 years in captivity. Since they are social and peaceful fish, you should to keep a group of 8 or more fish to improve their life quality.
What Are The Different Types?
There are five different species of hatchetfish found in the aquarium hobby.
Silver
The most common type of Hatchetfish is the silver hatchetfish. They have silver bodies that seem almost transparent and a unique ‘hatchet-like’ body shape. The silver hatchetfish are great swimmers and are known for their ability to jump out of the aquarium. Therefore, always choose a tight-fitting lid for your aquarium.
Blackwing
The Blackwing hatchetfish are larger than the other species of hatchetfish. They grow around 3 inches in length with darker bodies adorned with metallic green or blue hues on the fins. Temperament-wise, they are semi-aggressive fish but generally peaceful fish, ideal for a community tank.
Marbled
The marbled hatchetfish are somewhat similar in appearance to the popular silver hatchetfish. However, they have smaller bodies and marble-like mottled coloration on their bodies. Marbled hatchetfish are schooling fish that enjoys the company of other species of hatchetfish. Thus, I advise keeping a group of 8 or more to keep your fish healthy and thriving.
Carnation
Carnation hatchetfish are the species that experienced fishkeepers would enjoy. That’s because they are sensitive to water quality and conditions, so little attention is required. Size-wise, they are a smaller species with a pink or peach-colored body.
Pygmy
The smallest species of hatchetfish are the pygmy hatchetfish (video source). They grow only up to 1 inch in length. Also, they have silver bodies with a black stripe along their dorsal fin.
Common Hatchetfish Care
The freshwater Hatchetfish is a particularly hardy fish. However, it is still recommended for aquarists with some previous fish-keeping experience. That’s because they are active fish and need lots of free swimming space. Also, they are highly prone to fish diseases such as Ich, especially when introduced to a new tank.
Therefore, you should to quarantine the new fish before introducing them into the community tank.
Are they hard to care for?
No, they are not difficult to keep and care for. However, you need a certain level of expertise in keeping their water conditions optimal. Species of hatchetfish are sensitive to water conditions. Therefore, a little maintenance goes a long way. It’s crucial to maintain your tank and clean all the decomposing organic matter, check water quality regularly, and clean fish waste.
These toxins pollute the fish tank and affect the wellness of your fish. Therefore, to cater to these water conditions, I recommend replacing the water on a daily basis. If your tank is densely populated with a group of fish, at least 50% of the water should be replaced every week.
Aquarium Setup
The natural habitat of hatchetfish undergoes rainy season and floods. So, thankfully, they can survive in a wide range of pH, GH, and other water parameters. Hatchetfish are tropical freshwater fish that appreciates water temperature between 75. 80°F.
Since they are schooling fish, they thrive in a group of 6 to 12 or more. I recommend keeping at least 12 fish in the community tank because they feel safer and more comfortable. Though hatchetfish are active fish, but not exceptional.
Therefore, the minimum tank size should be 20 gallons or larger. Regardless of the tank size, install a tight-fitting lid or hood because you will find them jumping out of the aquarium often. Besides, if you have installed a filter, heater, or pumps, you are sure to cover any openings with aquarium-safe materials such as craft mesh, etc.
Tank Size
Hatchetfish are not super active fish but they do require free swimming space, considering the fact that they thrive in a community of at least six fish.
The minimum tank size should be20 gallons. I recommend a long tank with sufficient surface space as they will jump out of the water.
Even though hatchetfish are moderately hardy aquarium fish. There are specific water parameters to maintain for them to thrive in your aquarium.
The ideal water temperature should be between 75. 80°F.
Hatchetfish prefers slightly acidic water with a pH between 6.0 to 7.5 and it’s crucial to maintain the ideal pH range because changes in pH lead to stressful behavior in the fish.
They thrive in slightly hard water so the water hardness should be between 2 – 15 dGH.
Ammonia and nitrites are toxic for hatchetfish and harmful to their overall health. Therefore, install filters to avoid ammonia and nitrite buildup and test your water daily.
Nitrates: Hatchetfish can survive low levels of nitrates, but high levels can be detrimental to their health. Therefore, consider keeping nitrate levels as low as possible. The ideal range is less than 20 ppm.
Water movement: Hatchetfish are slow-moving fish that mostly swims at the top of the aquarium. They prefer slow-moving water and gentle current. The use of a filter is recommended, and aeration should be minimized to keep them healthy.
Hard Rule: Your tank must have a tight-fitting lid before you add hatchetfish. No gaps, no open spaces around filter tubes or heater cords. Hatchetfish are powerful jumpers and will clear a gap without warning. Out of water, they die within minutes. This is not an exaggeration.
Filtration And Aeration
Hatchetfish are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrites. Therefore, installing a quality filter is important.
If you have a small tank of around 15 gallons, Hang-on-back filters are easy to install and maintain, and they provide excellent filtration. However, if you have a larger aquarium of around 20 gallons or more, I recommend installing canister filters as they are more powerful than HOB and ideal for larger aquariums.
For hatchetfish tanks, I advise installing sponge filters as they don’t produce strong currents and are gentle.
No matter what type of filter you use, it’s crucial to clean and maintain them daily for efficient results.
For aeration, it’s important to avoid strong currents in the tank as they can lead to stressful behavior. The use of air stones and air pumps is recommended for tank aeration.
Lighting
Hatchetfish occupies the surface of the water tank and does best in tanks with moderate to low lighting. Therefore, the ideal lighting for hatchetfish is moderate to low, depending on various factors, including plants, and species of hatchetfish. Low light aquarium plants are most ideal for them.
Aquatic Plants and Decorations
Aquatic plants and decorations are important for a hatchetfish tank because it provides hiding places and a fun natural environment for your fish. That’s because their natural habitat is laden with hiding places and vegetation. Also, plants improve the quality of water by absorbing excess nutrients and promoting a healthy balance of microorganisms in the water.
Some of the best aquatic plants for your hatchetfish are:
Freshwater hatchetfish are simple to keep and take care of. To maintain their water in the best possible condition, you need to have a particular level of competence. Because hatchetfish species are sensitive to water quality, a little upkeep may go a long way. Maintaining your tank is essential, as is cleaning out all of the fish waste, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate buildup.
These chemicals contaminate the fish tank and harm your fish’s health. I advise refilling the water every day in order to address these water conditions. If you have a lot of fish in your tank, you should change the water every week by at least 50%.
Substrate
Hatchetfish are surface dwellers. Thus, choosing a substrate for their tank is not challenging. However, you need to consider the size of the tank, and the type of plants in your aquarium before choosing the right substrate.
Fortunately, you can keep any substrate you want as long as it suffices your tank’s needs. Fine sand is the most popular option for substrate because it does no harm to your fish’s fins. Gravel and Aqua soil are also common substrate options.
What People Get Wrong
The biggest mistake is an unsecured lid. Hatchetfish are surface fish that startle easily, and a startled hatchetfish jumps. Any gap around a filter, heater cable, or return tube is a death trap. Before you buy hatchetfish, seal every opening in your lid. This is not optional.
Second mistake: adding them to a new or uncycled tank. Hatchetfish are more sensitive to water quality than their appearance suggests. Ammonia or nitrite spikes will kill them quickly. They belong in an established tank with stable parameters, not a cycling setup.
Third: keeping them without surface cover. Floating plants , water lettuce, frogbit, or even hornwort at the surface , give hatchetfish the security they need. In a bare tank under bright overhead lighting, they hide at the edges and stress out. A floating plant layer keeps them active and visible.
Community Tank Mates
Hatchetfish are peaceful fish that are relatively shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. Since they are schooling fish, always keep them in a group of 6 or more.
The bigger the school, the happier the fish. Some of the suitable tank mates for hatchetfish are:
Hatchetfish are carnivorous fish that mostly feed on crustaceans and insects in their natural habitat. They have their mouths on the top of their bodies so they prefer eating surface foods such as fruit flies, mosquito larvae, and small vinegar flies.
In captivity, they accept live food, fish flakes, flake foods, and frozen foods. Basically, any food that is on the surface of the water. It’s recommended to feed them protein-rich food such as brine shrimp or blood worms, daphnia every day, etc. You can also feed them vegetables occasionally such as blanched spinach, zucchini, and cucumber.
You should feed them several feedings a day. Ideally three times a day. However, make sure not to overfeed your hatchetfish otherwise, it will create health issues or water quality problems.
Breeding
Hatchetfish are egg layers. But in captivity, the common hatchetfish has failed to breed. However, the marbled hatchetfish are hardy and easy to breed as compared to other species.
Overall, the breeding of hatchetfish is challenging, but with the right conditions, it’s certainly possible.
Choose A Breeding Tank
Hatchetfish need a spacious tank with lots of hiding places, floating plants, and other] vegetation. Adjust the lighting to mimic daylight or use some natural sunlight to escalate the process. The breeding tank should have ideal water parameters with a pH range of around 6.0 to 7.5
Feed The Breeding Fish
Feed your breeder fish with high-quality protein-rich food that includes live or frozen foods such as daphnia, mosquito larvae, blood worms, and brine shrimp. This will help in the breeding and spawning process. Once they are well-fed and nourished, introduce the pair into the breeding tank.
The Perfect Timing
Hatchetfish breed in the early morning hours, therefore, mimic the natural environment of fish in the breeding tank. Gradually increase the light intensity and then reduce it in the evening to trigger the breeding behavior.
Keep An Eye On The Floating Plants
You will find the fish eggs mostly on the underside of floating plants or on the tank glass. Remove the adult fish as soon as they lay eggs as the adult fish might end up eating eggs. The fish eggs hatch in around 3 days. The baby fish need to be fed small amounts of brine shrimp with other small live food at least thrice a day.
Fish Diseases
Want an easy community fish? This is not it. Want a species that rewards dedicated care? The Hatchetfish delivers if you put in the work.
The hatchetfish are susceptible to Ich. Therefore, it is crucial to quarantine the new fish in a separate tank before introducing it to the community tank. However, if you don’t keep a check on water conditions, there are higher chances of your fish developing diseases.
Like most fish, these freshwater fish are subject to many other fish diseases, such as skin flukes, parasitic infections, and fungal or bacterial infections. Despite being hardy, these fish species still get diseases. Thus, whatever you add to your aquarium. new fish, tank decorations, aquatic plants, substrate, properly clean and quarantine everything before moving to the main tank.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Hatchetfish
The Hatchetfish is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.
Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Hatchetfish learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.
Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.
Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.
FAQs
How Many Should I Keep?
Hatchetfish enjoys being in a school of at least 6 to 12 and even more.
What Fish Can Live With Them?
They are peaceful fish that are also shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. The ideal tank mates for hatchetfish are:
Tetras Rasboras Corydoras Gouramis Dwarf cichlids Dwarf shrimps Other hatchetfish
Are They Easy To Keep?
Yes, they are hardy and easy to keep. However, they are not recommended for beginners as they demand particular water conditions and tank maintenance.
What Do They Eat?
They are carnivorous that need a diet rich in protein. Frozen foods, live food, frozen fried foods, meaty foods, brine shrimp, tubifex, fruit flies, and daphnia are excellent sources of nutrition for Hatchetfish.
Are They Aggressive?
No, they are very peaceful and non-territorial. In fact, they are a great choice for a community tank. However, if they are kept in small tanks or containers where they feel threatened, they might become semi-aggressive toward other hatchetfish.
Are They Hardy?
Yes, they are moderately hardy fish recommended for aquarists with some prior experience.
Is the Hatchetfish Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You want a surface-dwelling schooling fish that does not compete with mid or bottom-level species
You have a securely sealed lid and are committed to keeping it sealed at all times
You can provide live or frozen foods (small insects, daphnia, blackworms) to supplement dry feeding
Avoid If:
You cannot guarantee a sealed, escape-proof lid – hatchetfish jump reflexively and exit any uncovered opening
You want a visible, active display fish – hatchetfish hover at the surface and rarely move into the main tank body
You keep a group under 8 – small schools become skittish and escape behavior becomes more frequent
Final Thoughts
Hatchetfish, like their unique name, are interesting and intriguing fish with unusual bodies, shimmery scales, and peaceful nature. The fish species, despite their many different types, share similar characteristics and behavior. Hence, ideal for community tanks and a treat to watch and care for.
Recommended Video
Check out our tetra tier list video where we rank the most popular tetras in the hobby, including the hatchetfish:
Platies are one of the best beginner fish in the hobby: peaceful, colorful, hardy, and genuinely fun to keep. But here’s the part nobody talks about upfront: if you have males and females together, you will have fry. Constantly. The tank mates you choose determine whether your platy setup stays enjoyable or turns into an overstocked mess fast.
The fish is easy. The breeding is what separates people who enjoy platies from people who get overwhelmed by them.
I’ve worked with platies for decades, both personally and through the stores I managed. They’re as forgiving as freshwater fish get, but “forgiving” doesn’t mean “no plan needed.” The right tank mates make a platy tank thrive. The wrong ones (or no plan for the fry) will have you dealing with problems inside six months.
Key Takeaways
Platies are hardy, peaceful community fish, but livebearer breeding reality means you need a fry plan before you add tank mates
Best tank mates are peaceful fish sharing neutral to slightly alkaline water (pH 7.0–8.0) and similar temperature ranges (72–79°F / 22–26°C)
Keep at least 2–3 females per male platy to prevent harassment; this applies to all livebearer mixes including mollies and guppies
Avoid fin-nippers, aggressive cichlids, and large predatory fish that can swallow platy fry or stress adults
Caring For Your Platies: A Brief Recap
Before picking tank mates, you need to know what platies actually need. The basics set the boundaries for everything else in the tank.
Types of Platies
There are two species in the hobby: the Southern Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus) and the Variable Platy (X. variatus). Decades of selective breeding have produced a huge variety of color forms, including:
Variegated platy
Mickey Mouse platy
Swordtail platy
High fin platy
Wagtail platy
Balloon platy
The good news: all these varieties share the same care requirements.
Aquarium Size & Parameters
Platies come from the warm waters of Mexico, Central America, and northern South America. They need water temperatures of 68–79°F (20–26°C), so most setups need an aquarium heater.
Target parameters:
pH: 7.0–8.2
Water hardness: 10–30 dGH
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons (57 L) for platies alone; 30 gallons (114 L) for a community setup
A 15-gallon (57 L) works for a small group of platies. For a mixed community, 30 gallons (114 L) minimum, and bigger is always better once fry start surviving.
Platies need a quality filter and regular partial water changes. Get yourself a water test kit and use it. There’s no substitute for knowing what’s actually in your water.
Breeding Platies
Put males and females together and they will breed. That’s not a maybe. It’s a certainty. In a community tank, most fry get picked off by other fish, including the platies themselves, and the population stays manageable on its own. If you actually want to raise fry, pull the pregnant female into a separate tank before she drops. Otherwise, let the community handle it and don’t stress about it. Most people do just fine without intervention.
Feeding
Platies eat almost anything: high-quality flake or micro-pellet food as a daily staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods a few times a week. Most tank mates in this guide thrive on the same diet. I’ll call out exceptions where they exist.
What People Get Wrong About Platy Tank Mates
The number-one mistake I see is picking tank mates based purely on temperament, checking the “peaceful” box and calling it done. Temperament is only half the equation. The bigger issue is the livebearer breeding dynamic.
In my experience, the male-to-female ratio issue catches more people off guard than any tank mate compatibility question. Put platies with guppies and mollies without managing male-to-female ratios and you don’t get a peaceful community: you get constant harassment. I’ve watched this play out at the stores I managed: customers would come back two months later wondering why their females were dying, and the answer was almost always the same ratio problem. Females get run ragged. Within a few weeks, you’ll notice a female hiding, losing color, refusing food. That’s stress, and it progresses to death if nothing changes.
The second mistake is ignoring pH. Platies want neutral to slightly alkaline water: 7.0 to 8.0. That’s a different world from discus, altum angels, or wild-caught tetras that need soft, acidic conditions. I’ve seen hobbyists try to find a “compromise” parameter that keeps both groups alive. It doesn’t work. One group is always running suboptimal, and that shows up in color, behavior, and lifespan. Pick tank mates that actually live in the same water, not ones you’re hoping will adapt.
Biggest Mistake Platy Keepers Make
Mixing male-heavy livebearer tanks without a ratio plan. After 25+ years in this hobby and time running fish retail, I’ve seen this wreck otherwise great community setups more times than I can count. One male platy relentlessly chasing two females in a 20-gallon (76 L) sounds harmless. It isn’t. The females are constantly evading, constantly stressed, constantly burning energy. Over weeks, immune function drops, they become prone to disease, and they stop eating well. You’ll lose fish that look physically healthy and never connect the dots back to the male-female ratio. Keep at least two to three females for every male, regardless of tank size.
Top 15 Tank Mates for Platy Fish
Every species here shares platy water chemistry: neutral to slightly alkaline pH, moderate hardness, and a temperature range in the low-to-mid 70s°F (22–24°C). That’s the filter that matters most. Compatibility starts with parameters, not just personality.
Expert Take
After 25+ years in this hobby (and years managing freshwater retail), platies are the livebearer I’d recommend to anyone starting out. They’re peaceful, hardy, adaptable, and they don’t nip fins. I’ve built platy communities in my own tanks and in every store I managed. These are the tank mates that actually held up long-term. The main challenge with tank mates isn’t compatibility: it’s fry management. In my experience with platies, the male-to-female ratio is the single thing most people get wrong. Platies breed constantly, and if you’re putting them in a community tank, you need a plan for the fry. Other fish will eat most of them. That’s actually fine for population control. What breaks a platy tank is the ratio, not the tank mates themselves. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot
Quick-Reference Comparison Table
Species
Adult Size
Min Tank
Ease
Compatibility
Molly Fish
3–5 in (7.6–12.7 cm)
30 gal (114 L)
8/10
High
Guppy Fish
1.5–2.5 in (3.8–6.4 cm)
10 gal (38 L)
8/10
High
Honey Gourami
2 in (5 cm)
10 gal (38 L)
8/10
High
Betta Fish
2.5 in (6.4 cm)
10 gal (38 L)
6/10
Conditional
Zebra Danio
2 in (5 cm)
20 gal (76 L)
9/10
High
Cory Catfish
1–3 in (2.5–7.6 cm)
20 gal (76 L)
9/10
High
Bristlenose Pleco
5–6 in (12.7–15.2 cm)
29 gal (110 L)
8/10
High
Harlequin Rasbora
1.75 in (4.4 cm)
20 gal (76 L)
9/10
High
Otocinclus
1.75 in (4.4 cm)
20 gal (76 L)
7/10
High
Boeseman’s Rainbowfish
4 in (10 cm)
30 gal (114 L)
7/10
High
White Cloud Mountain Minnow
1.5 in (3.8 cm)
15 gal (57 L)
8/10
Conditional
Neon Tetra
1 in (2.5 cm)
15 gal (57 L)
8/10
High
Ember Tetra
0.75 in (1.9 cm)
10 gal (38 L)
8/10
High
Angelfish
6 in (15 cm)
29 gal (110 L)
6/10
Conditional
Hatchetfish
1.25 in (3.2 cm)
20 gal (76 L)
6/10
High
1. Molly Fish
Ease: 8/10 Natural livebearer tankmate. Manage the male-to-female ratio.
Size: 3–5 in (7.6–12.7 cm)
Tank size: 30 gal (114 L)
Scientific name: Poecilia latipinna & P. sphenops
Origin: North & South America
Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
pH: 7.0–8.5
Water temperature: 70–79°F (21–26°C)
School size: 3+
Mollies and platies are a natural pairing: both livebearers, both adaptable, both peaceful. Mollies top out at 5 inches (12.7 cm) and need at least 30 gallons (114 L). One thing to watch: if you’re keeping both species, the male-to-female ratio issue doubles. Male mollies will pursue female platies and vice versa. Keep the whole livebearer population skewed female: two to three females per male across all species combined.
2. Guppy Fish
Ease: 8/10 Excellent match. A mixed livebearer tank needs a numbers plan.
Guppies are another live-bearing fish that thrives alongside platies. They’re smaller (topping out around 2.5 inches / 6.4 cm) and even more colorful in the males. There are many guppy varieties to choose from. Guppy fry get eaten by most community fish, which helps keep the population in check without any intervention.
3. Honey Gourami
Ease: 8/10 Peaceful, works perfectly with platies, no livebearer complications.
The honey gourami is a quiet, unassuming fish that works beautifully in a platy community. At 2 inches (5 cm), it doesn’t compete for space, doesn’t harass other fish, and its golden coloration stands out alongside the varied platy color forms. A related species of the betta fish, it uses a labyrinth organ to breathe atmospheric air, which means it tolerates slightly lower oxygen levels better than most tank mates.
4. Betta Fish
Ease: 6/10 Works with careful planning. Not a casual add.
Bettas can work with platies, but they’re not a casual add. A male betta in a platy community needs a tank of at least 20 gallons (76 L), not the 5-gallon solo minimum, with plenty of sight breaks. Choose a betta whose color differs from your platies, and skip long-finned platy varieties. A betta that mistakes its platies for rival fish will attack. The honey gourami is an easier option if you want the gourami look without the aggression risk. Choose a betta if you want a centerpiece fish with personality; choose the honey gourami if you want zero drama.
5. Zebra Danio
Ease: 9/10 One of the most reliable platy tank mates in the hobby.
Size: 2 in (5 cm)
Tank size: 20 gal (76 L)
Scientific name: Danio rerio
Origin: India, Nepal, Bangladesh
Swimming level: All levels
pH: 6.0–8.0
Water temperature: 64–75°F (18–24°C)
School size: 6+
Zebra danios are fast, hardy, and completely unbothered by platies. They school actively in the mid-water and upper column, which creates movement in a tank dominated by platies hovering in the middle. Keep at least 6. Danios in small groups get nippy. In a proper school of 8 or more, they’re model citizens. These fish handle a wide range of water conditions and bounce back from beginner mistakes better than almost anything else on this list.
Hard Rule: Keep at least 2–3 female platies per male, across all livebearers in the tank combined. A single female relentlessly chased by one or more males will be harassed to exhaustion and death over weeks. The ratio applies whether you have 1 species or 4. This is not optional.
6. Cory Catfish
Ease: 9/10 The best bottom-dweller for a platy community. No competition.
Size: 1–3 in (2.5–7.6 cm)
Tank size: 20 gal (76 L)
Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
Origin: South America
Swimming level: Bottom
pH: 7.0–8.0
Water temperature: 74–80°F (23–27°C)
School size: 4+ (6 preferred)
Corydoras are my default recommendation for any platy community. They stay on the bottom, clean up whatever falls to the substrate, and have zero interest in bothering anyone. Most cory species want the same neutral to slightly alkaline water as platies: bronze cories (C. aeneus) and peppered cories (C. paleatus) are the most forgiving and easiest to find. Keep at least 6. I’ve kept groups of 4 and they’re fine, but 6 or more and you’ll see a completely different level of activity. They move together, they feed together, and they’re genuinely fun to watch work a tank.
The bristlenose pleco is the pleco for community tanks. Unlike common plecos that hit 18 inches (45 cm) and outgrow everything, bristlenoses stay under 6 inches (15 cm) and do a real job on algae. Keep one per tank. Two males will fight over territory. Give it driftwood to graze on and a cave to claim, and it will mostly disappear during the day and work the tank at night.
8. Harlequin Rasbora
Ease: 9/10 One of the best schooling fish for a platy community.
Harlequin rasboras are a standout schooling fish for this type of community. The black triangular patch on the rear half of the body gives them a distinctive look, and a tight school of 10 or more moving together is genuinely impressive. Their lower pH preference (down to 6.0) works fine alongside platies at 7.0–7.5, and the overlap zone is comfortable for both. Avoid very small rasbora species like chili rasboras: at under 1 inch (2.5 cm), they get outcompeted at feeding time and stressed by the activity level of larger platies.
9. Otocinclus
Ease: 7/10 Best algae grazer for the community, but needs an established tank.
Otos are the algae grazers you want when the tank has a real algae coating to maintain. Don’t add them to a new setup; they need an established tank with a consistent algae food source or they’ll starve. Keep 4–6 together; they do better in small groups than alone. They’re completely vegetarian, which means they’re safe with platy fry. They’re one of the few tank mates you can say that about.
10. Boeseman’s Rainbowfish
Ease: 7/10 Striking display fish that matches platy water parameters well.
Size: 4 in (10 cm)
Tank size: 30 gal (114 L)
Scientific name: Melanotaenia boesemani
Origin: Papua New Guinea
Swimming level: Upper & middle levels
pH: 7.0–8.0
Water temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
School size: 6+
Boeseman’s rainbowfish are visually striking: neon blue on the front half, vivid orange-yellow on the back. They prefer the same neutral to slightly alkaline water as platies, and that overlap makes the chemistry side easy. You need at least 6 of them and 30 gallons (114 L) of space. These are active mid-water fish that need room to move. They’re one of the larger options on this list, which adds visual impact to a platy community without adding aggression. Browse the full range of rainbowfish species if you want to explore other options in this family.
11. White Cloud Mountain Minnow
Ease: 8/10 Excellent match at the cooler end of the platy temperature range.
White cloud mountain minnows are graceful, peaceful schooling fish that work well with platies, with one temperature caveat. White clouds are cold-water fish that prefer 60–72°F (16–22°C). Platies can drop to 68°F (20°C), so the overlap window is 68–72°F (20–22°C). Keep the tank at that range and both species do fine. Push it warmer for the platies and the minnows will struggle. This is a conditional compatibility: make the temperature decision first, then commit.
12. Neon Tetra
Ease: 8/10 The classic platy community addition. Reliable and visually striking.
Neon tetras have earned their reputation. They’re peaceful, visually dramatic in a school, and completely compatible with platies at the water parameter level. Keep 10 or more for the full schooling display. Groups under 6 tend to scatter and look sparse. The blue and red neon stripe under good lighting alongside the color variety of platies is one of the better beginner community combinations you can build.
13. Ember Tetra
Ease: 8/10 Small, colorful, and peaceful. Great for smaller platy setups.
Ember tetras are small (under an inch / 2.5 cm), but in a school of 10 or more, their burnt-orange coloration against green plants is striking. They’re best in a planted platy tank where there’s some cover, since they can get outcompeted at feeding time in busy tanks. Their pH preference (down to 5.5) runs slightly softer than ideal platy water, but at 7.0 the overlap is fine. A good choice for anyone with a 20-gallon (76 L) platy setup who wants a schooling fish without needing a large tank.
14. Angelfish
Ease: 6/10 Works with adult platies. Will eat fry and small juveniles.
Size: 6 in (15 cm)
Tank size: 29 gal (110 L) minimum; 55 gal (208 L) for a community
Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
Origin: South America
Swimming level: Middle
pH: 6.0–7.4
Water temperature: 76–86°F (24–30°C)
School size: 1–2 (or a bonded pair)
Angelfish are one of the hobby’s great centerpiece fish. The catch: they’re large enough to swallow platy fry and juveniles whole. Keep angels with fully adult platies only. The temperature ranges are compatible: both like the mid-to-upper 70s°F (24–27°C), but a 55-gallon (208 L) tank is much more practical than the 29-gallon minimum when combining angels with an active livebearer community. Choose angelfish if you want a dramatic showpiece; go with honey gouramis if you want compatibility without size complications.
15. Hatchetfish
Ease: 6/10 Unique surface dweller, but sensitive and escape-prone.
Hatchetfish are unlike anything else on this list. They live exclusively at the surface, don’t compete for mid-water space with platies, and their deep-bodied silhouette is genuinely unusual. The trade-off: they jump. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. It’s essential. They’re also more sensitive to water quality than most fish here, so they’re better suited to hobbyists who already have a stable, mature tank. Keep 6 or more; they’re social and stay calmer in a proper school.
Community Aquarium Setup Guidelines
Found the right combination? Run through this before you buy.
The Aquarium
A 30-gallon (114 L) tank is the practical minimum for a platy community. A 20-gallon (76 L) works only if you’re keeping just two small species in modest numbers. Every tank needs a secure lid. Most fish on this list jump, and platies themselves have been known to launch themselves when startled.
Essential Hardware
A quality aquarium filter is non-negotiable. Hang-on-back filters work well for tanks up to 40 gallons (151 L). For larger setups or more bioload, consider a canister filter.
You’ll also need a heater, as almost everything on this list wants water in the low-to-mid 70s°F (22–24°C).
Substrate & Decorations
Sand or fine gravel works for the bottom layer. Choose smooth substrate if you’re keeping corydoras: their sensitive barbels need it. Driftwood and rocks add natural structure. Live plants (Anubias, Java fern, hornwort) are the right call for a platy community. They improve water quality, reduce stress, and give fry somewhere to hide if you’re not using a breeding tank.
Mark’s Pick: For a classic platy community, I’d go with corydoras on the bottom, a school of harlequin rasboras or neon tetras in the mid-water, and a bristlenose pleco for algae duty. All three tolerate the same neutral to slightly alkaline water as platies, none of them cause conflict, and the result is a tank with activity at every level. That’s the setup I’ve recommended for years, and it still holds up.
Platy Tank Mates FAQs
What fish can live with platies?
Mollies, guppies, corydoras, honey gouramis, zebra danios, harlequin rasboras, neon tetras, bristlenose plecos, and otocinclus are all reliable platy tank mates. The common thread: peaceful temperament and neutral to slightly alkaline water (pH 7.0–8.0). Avoid aggressive species, fin-nippers, and any fish large enough to swallow adult platies.
How many platy tank mates can I keep together?
In a properly sized tank, you can mix several species comfortably. A 40-gallon (151 L) tank can support a group of 6–8 platies, a school of 8–10 rasboras, and 6 corydoras without crowding. The limiting factor is bioload and livebearer population growth over time. Plan for fry production when calculating how many fish you’re actually adding to the tank.
Are platies good community fish?
Yes. Platies are some of the best community fish available for a beginner setup. They’re peaceful, adaptable, colorful, and hardy. The one thing that catches people off guard is the breeding rate. If you have males and females, you’ll have fry. Plan for that and the rest is straightforward.
Do platies breed in a community tank?
Yes, continuously. Females give birth to live fry roughly every 4–6 weeks. In a community tank, most fry get eaten by other fish, which naturally limits population growth. If you want to raise fry, move the pregnant female to a separate tank before she gives birth. If you don’t want fry at all, keep only males or only females, but be aware that an all-male platy tank produces chasing behavior between males.
Can platies live with angelfish?
Adult platies: yes. Platy fry and juveniles: no. Angelfish are large enough to eat anything that fits in their mouth, and platy fry definitely qualify. If you want angelfish in a platy community, keep only fully grown adult platies, use a 55-gallon (208 L) or larger tank, and accept that fry won’t survive.
What fish should you NOT keep with platies?
Avoid large cichlids (Oscars, Jack Dempseys, Green Terrors), aggressive fin-nippers like tiger barbs in small groups, and any fish requiring very soft or acidic water below pH 6.5. Large predatory fish will eat platies. Fin-nippers will shred their fins. And fish that need very different water chemistry than platies will never thrive in the same tank. One group or the other will be compromised.
Should You Build a Platy Community Tank?
Good Fit If:
You want a peaceful, colorful community with easy water chemistry (neutral to slightly alkaline pH)
You’re okay with livebearer breeding, or have a plan for fry management
You want active fish with visible personality that don’t require expert-level care
You’re building a beginner community and want forgiving, adaptable fish as the foundation
Avoid If:
You don’t want to deal with fry: a mixed-sex platy tank produces fry constantly, no exceptions
You’re keeping highly aggressive cichlids or fin-nipping barbs, as platies will be harassed
You want very soft, acidic water. Platies don’t do well below pH 6.5
You’re planning an all-male livebearer mix without managing the male-to-female ratio across all species
Final Thoughts
Platies are a gateway fish: genuinely easy to keep, endlessly varied in color, and compatible with most of what you’d want in a community tank. The livebearer breeding reality is not a problem if you go in with a plan. Know your male-to-female ratio, choose tank mates from the same water chemistry world, and decide early whether you want to manage fry or let the tank handle it naturally.
Here’s what I tell people after 25 years in this hobby: a well-planned platy community is one of the most satisfying tanks you can build. A poorly planned one (wrong ratios, wrong chemistry, no fry strategy) becomes a frustrating mess within months. The fish aren’t the problem. The planning is. Get the planning right and everything else follows.
What’s your favorite platy combination? Drop it in the comments. And if you found this useful, subscribe to our YouTube Channel for more freshwater content from someone who’s actually been doing this for decades.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide: your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Apistogrammas are the crown jewels of the dwarf cichlid world, and they are not nearly as beginner friendly as pet stores suggest. Every species needs soft, acidic water, a mature tank, and careful attention to territory. I have kept over a dozen apisto species and the universal truth is this: get the water chemistry right and apistos are incredible. Get it wrong and you are buying replacements every few months. There is no middle ground.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Apistogramma
Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Apistogramma without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Apistogramma are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Apistogramma
Apistos are incredible fish, but they have a reputation for being finicky that is entirely earned. Here is what that actually means for your setup.
Water chemistry is non-negotiable. Most Apistogramma species need a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, very low hardness, and warm temperatures between 78 and 84F. If your tap water is hard and alkaline, you need RO water or significant buffering. There is no shortcut here.
Males are territorial. A male apisto will claim a section of your tank and defend it vigorously. In a small tank, that can mean every other bottom-dwelling fish gets chased relentlessly. You need sight-line breaks, caves, and enough floor space for territories.
Species identification is a nightmare. There are over 400 described and undescribed Apistogramma species. Misidentified fish are common, especially from importers. Hybrids are also widespread. If species purity matters to you, buy from specialists.
Females turn into different fish when breeding. A female apisto guarding eggs transforms from a shy, retiring fish into a tiny tank boss. She will attack males, tank mates, and anything that comes near her cave. This behavior is normal and expected.
Biggest Mistake New Apistogramma Owners Make
Keeping them in hard, alkaline water and wondering why they get sick and die. Apistos are blackwater fish. They need soft, acidic conditions. If your tap water has a pH of 7.8, you cannot keep apistos without modifying it. End of discussion.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Start with Apistogramma cacatuoides or A. Borellii. These two species are the hardiest in the genus and will tolerate a wider range of conditions than most. Once you have success with those, branch out into the more demanding species.
ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate
Apistogramma is a large genus of dwarf cichlids from South America, most requiring soft, acidic water and cave-based territories. Care difficulty varies by species – some are beginner-accessible, others are specialist-level.
Key Takeaways
Apistogramma genus normally reach about 3 inches in size making them great for a 20 gallon freshwater aquarium
They come in a plethora of colors and have over 100 sub-species to choose from
They are mostly bottom-dwelling fish that do great with upper column schooling fish like tetras and pencil fish
Many variants are easy enough to keep even for beginner aquarist
An Overview of the Species
Scientific Name
Apistogramma
Common Names
Dwarf Cichlid
Family
Cichlidae
Origin
Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia
Diet
South America
Care Level
Moderate
Activity
High
Lifespan
5 to 10 years
Temperament
Semi aggressive
Tank Level
Bottom
Minimum Tank Size
20 gallons
Temperature Range
72. 86° F
Water Hardness
2. 15 dH
pH Range
6.0. 7.0
Filtration/Water Flow
Low
Water Type
Freshwater
Breeding
Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed
Varies
Compatibility
Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?
Yes
Classification
Order
Cichliformes
Family
Cichlidae
Subfamily
Geophaginae
Genus
Apistogramma
Species
Over 90 described species (Regan, 1913)
Appearance
One of the appeals of keeping Apistogramma is all of the variations of colors that is found in these dwarf cichlids. Every color from varying shades of reds, blues, and even golds is found, making them truly a joy to keep and admire.
Most Apistogramma also have the typical cichlid profile of being slim and long with a thick black stripe that runs the entire body length to their tail fins.
Males tend to always be the most beautiful of the Apistogramma species, while females tend to have more muted color palettes. There are a few female varieties that buck this trend, but overall it’s the males that stand out.
Some females do become much more vibrant during the breeding season, demonstrating that color may still play a role in mating for the males as well as the females. But there’s not much scientific evidence proving this theory yet.
Types of Apistogramma Species
A. Cacatuoides
Dwarf Cockatoo Cichlids (Apistogramma Cacatuoides) are one of the most commonly kept Apistogramma due to the ease they is bred in captivity and the ‘Cockatoo’ appearance of their prominent dorsal fins.
On males, apistogramma cacatuoides dorsal fin is almost as large as their entire body and is often speckled with bright red dots with streaks of yellow and black underneath. Apistogramma cacatuoides bodies are a muted yellow and sport a horizontal black line down the length of their body from head to tail.
The females are much less vibrant than the males, as is common with cichlids. She, too, has a thick black stripe that goes from head to tail, but her body is more silver, and her fins are much smaller and don’t include the ‘cockatoo cichlid’ appearance that male apistogramma cacatuoides do.
They are easy to care for and breed and make great additions to any freshwater tank.
A. Agassizii
Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlids are more territorial and originate in Brazil, but their variety of colors and small size still make them a favorite among aquarists everywhere.
The males look more like the normal cichlid as far as shape, and include a range of color patterns including red, blue, silver, yellow, gold and orange. The most commonly kept Agassiz’s Dwarf Cichlid specimens are the yellow finned variant with a thick black stripe running the entire length of its body.
These little fish only reach around three inches which makes them perfect for smaller tanks. They’re also considered community fish which means they is kept with other types of freshwater life, but just make sure they are the same size or larger as cichlids readily eat smaller fish of any species.
A. Borellii
Umbrella Cichlids have an iridescent blue-violet body with yellow tails, fins and faces making them a very uniquely colored apisto species.
Usually a female umbrella cichlid is drab and void of vibrancy both in captivity and in their natural habitat. But the female apistogramma borellii is unique in this as they are just as beautiful to look at as the males are boasting different hues of blue for their bodies with a red face and almost transparent yellow fins (video source).
The Umbrella Cichlid can reach just a tad over three inches with the females being a bit smaller overall.
They prefer densely planted aquariums with many places to hide and is easily spooked. They can also be territorial and semi aggressive so it’s best to keep one male apistogramma borellii with at least four to seven females in order to keep the peace.
Being apistogramma borellii it’s a good idea not to keep smaller or fragile fish in the same tank set up. They will eat other fish! But fish at least the same size or larger are okay, and being a bit aggressive is acceptable too.
A. Macmasteri
Red Neck cichlids are known for their bright red and blue facial coloration and originate from the meta river system in Columbia. These rivers are often sandy with little vegetation, something to know when you’re setting up your tank for these.
Red Necks are small and don’t reach three inches full-grown. And the females are even smaller. This makes them easy to keep in a smaller tank of 20 gallons or more. Just be sure to have some places to hide, like a clay pot or two and a few pieces of driftwood.
These are active and playful fish that like some open space to swim around in. They’re peaceful and do well with others, but during mating season, you can run into aggressive behavior problems.
So if you do plan to breed Red Necks, it’s best to place the breeding pair in a separate tank during breeding season if you have a community tank. Pencils, tetras and other calm schooling fish are the best sort of tank mates if you want to keep these in a larger set up.
A. Hongsloi
Hongslo’s dwarf cichlids are another variety of Colombian dwarf cichlids that, in the wild, are lightly colored in ‘boring’ tannish and white. But the strain that’s kept in tanks today is a brightly colored red variety that is the result of selective breeding and can only be found in captivity.
The domesticated variety has the common cichlid shaped slim silver body with bright red edgings on the lower half and under their eye. Their face and ‘neck’ are yellow and fins are a transparent silverish purple making them a joy to look at.
These dwarf cichlids are easy to keep and are social and tolerate other species of calm fish in community tanks. They don’t really require any special care and their tanks is bare sandy gravel with a few pieces of driftwood placed to make a few small cave like structures.
Overall this is a great beginner fish if you want to start keeping dwarf cichlids.
A. Viejita
Viejita Rednecks aren’t as common as the other Red Neck cichlids are, but that doesn’t mean they are any less beautiful to look at.
Coming in under three inches, these small nano fish are playful and clam and boast bright reds and radiant oranges. And like most cichlids they have a thick black stripe running the entire length of their body.
Another easy fish to both keep and breed, like the Hongslo’s dwarf cichlids, they are a great beginner-friendly cichlid to start with. Fairly hardy, they like a densely planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places.
A. Baenschi
Apistogramma baenschi are brilliant looking with a metallic sky blue wash covering the tail end of its body while the head half is washed in yellows. Its transparent tail is edged with black then bright red or orange making this baenschi a true stand out.
But what really separates them is the enormous fin extensions on their dorsal fin rays that make them look similar to a salt water Rooster Fish. Between their color patterns and long fin extensions, these are one of the most beautiful of the dwarf cichlids.
They come from Peru and only grow to under three inches. They’re also calm and do well in heavily planted tanks that host other non-cichlid calm schooling fish like tetras or rasboras.
A. Elizabethae
One of the hardier species of the genus, Apistogramma Elizabethae is one of the rarest dwarf cichlids in the aquarium trade and hails from rivers in Brazil.
These simply colored fish are a blueish gray with more vibrant blues at the edges of it transparent fins separated by a thick black stripe that runs halfway through its entire length. The underpart is both orange starting at the head that slowly progresses to a bright yellow. Small flecks of an iridescent blue can also been seen in the face of the males.
These social nano fish reach lengths of two inches and is kept with other non-cichlids peacefully. But they do require a densely planted tank with rocks and driftwood and low lighting to really thrive.
Although rare, they are a good for beginners and do well under most circumstances. Single specimens is kept in aquariums as small as ten gallons, but a twenty gallon tank or larger is required for any more than two.
A. Trifasciata
The Three-Striped Dwarf Cichlid is found in the sandy bottoms of the rivers of Paraguay and only grow to one to one and a half inches long making it one of the smallest dwarf cichlids on our list.
Trifasciata, like the Apistogramma Baenschi I discussed above, slightly resemble a salt water Rooster Fish with their large fin extensions on their dorsal fin rays that traditionally include iridescent blues and oranges making them quite a site to look at.
Their silver looking bodies are topped of with yellow running along the top of its back and the typical thick black stripe running through the center from head to its tail.
As with most cichlids, the females are much less colorful and dramatic other than their vibrant blue fins.
Although these are easy to keep, keep in mind males of this species often become aggressive towards each other, especially during mating. It’s best to keep one male with many females if you’re looking to keep a few of these in your tank.
How Big Do They Get?
Being a ‘Dwarf’ species of cichlids, these little guys pretty much never get to much more than three inches long although there are a very few that can grow as large as six inches making them the largest south american dwarf cichlids.
And some can be as small as two inches when fully grown. This makes them perfect for smaller freshwater aquariums and play a large part in their popularity. It’s also important to note that the males are again, almost always larger than the females. This can help when you’re sexing in order to breed them.
How Long Do They Live?
Most dwarf cichlids live between three to five years in captivity. Their lifespan primarily depends on the quality of the main tank set up and how well the hobbyist can maintain their water.
A few of the reasons Apistogramma has shorter lifespans includes;
· Dirty Water
· Ph too high or low
· Keeping many males in the same tank
· Keeping inappropriate tank mates that stress Apistogramma
· Under or over feeding
· Water temperature range too high or low
These are just a few of the more common mistakes hobbyist make keeping dwarf cichlids. It’s important to remember that your fish are living creatures and should be treated as such.
Take care of them and do some research on where they come from and how they live in their natural habitats. This information will go a long way in understanding proper tank set up and feeding.
Dwarf Cichlids Behavior & Temperament
Surprisingly, most species of Apistogramma are calm, peaceful fish and often make good tank mates, even in community tanks. And although they is shy, as long as they have a few nooks and crannies to hide when they feel threatened or stressed, they can thrive in most tanks.
The only problem with most cichlids, regardless of size or where they come from, is their aggressive behavior during mating. Some will literally fight each other to the death.
So it’s extremely important to always look to see if your choice needs to have a harem of females per male in order to keep aggression to a minimum.
Most Apistogramma also enjoys schooling. In the wild, they is found in school sizes of two to ten with one male and many females. So if your tank is large enough, take advantage of this and let them swim around in impressive-looking groups.
Are They Hard to Keep?
Most species of Apistogramma are quite easy to keep and thrive in many types of freshwater fish tanks.
Of course, it’s always best if you can match their natural habitats as closely as possible when it comes to pH levels, water temperature and quality, and their natural surroundings as far as substrates and flora.
But most of these dwarf cichlids are actually resilient and can survive in an array of water conditions. But of course, unfavorable conditions while being able to sustain your fish, most definitely play a role in limiting their lifespan.
But read on to find out exactly what you do need to be doing and how to set up everything so you can have a Apistogramma tank to be proud of.
Aquarium Setup
Your aquarium set up will depend on the species of apistogramma you decide to keep. Some Apistogramma like sandy substrate bottoms to feed off, while other require a lot of live plants and other vegetation, rocks and bits of wood and plant matter like Indian almond leaves. Read through our section above on what each sub-species requires to be happy.
What Size Tank Do They Need?
The saying ‘bigger is better’ is true when it comes to tank sizes. Just think if you were a goldfish stuck in a tiny bowl and not allowed to swim around like fish are supposed to do. How happy would you be?
But of course we can’t all have 300 gallon tanks, nor do you need to for these apistogramma.
The minimum tank size for Apistogramma should be a twenty gallon tank. And this is if you only have one or two to house plus a few tetras or one of the other many species of schooling fish to keep them company.
The one caveat worth noting here is the Apistogramma Elizabethae which doesn’t seem to mind being in smaller shallower tanks, as long as it has room to swim lengthwise.
But otherwise, if you’re new to the hobby and setting up your first tank, start out with a 20 gallon tank.
Water Parameters(Tank Conditions)
Water is the most important factor in any set up and it’s also what you’ll struggle with the entire time you have your aquarium. But since Apistogramma are fresh water fish, it’s not as difficult to get it right as some other set ups are.
Like most aquarium life, Apistogramma need certain water parameters in order to stay healthy and thrive. Deviate from them and you are putting the health of your fish at risk.
Being from South America it isn’t hard to imagine that they need warm water to live. The perfect temperature is somewhere between 72. 86 Degrees Fahrenheit, and if the tank retains anything less than 60 Degrees for any extended amount of time can easily kill most Apistogramma. This includes the temperature of the water, even new water, that you are adding when doing your water maintenance routine
So always pay attention to your tanks temperature!
And as far as pH goes, try to stay in the 6.0 to 7.0 range for most species. But again, please look at each individual cichlid’s specific requirements to be sure you’re going for the correct pH.
Quick Water Parameter Guide
· Temperature: 72. 86 Degrees Fahrenheit
· pH: 6.0. 7.0
· TDS: 100. 200 PPM
Filtration and Aeration
Filtration has a lot to do with the amount of aquatic life and what else is in the tank and the tank’s water capacity. The more fish you have, the more waste needs to be removed. The same goes for live plants and substrates where microorganisms can end up growing.
For Apistogramma the perfect set up would be to have both a mechanical and biological filter for your tank. Good aquarium filters will have different stages. The mechanical filter will filter large particles of debris and uneaten food. Whereas the biological filter will allow aerobic, nitrifying bacteria to grow that break down waste and other toxic compounds.
If you are on a serious budget and are starting small, a large sponge filter is used, it’s just not the optimal filter for the job.
Depending on which Apistogramma you have, it’s best to keep your filters running slowly as many of these come from slow moving rivers or the edges of lakes where the water is more still. Replicating their natural water movements is another way to keep your apistogramma happy without really needing to do much.
Lighting
Most Apistogramma are more comfortable with medium to low light conditions in your tank. For many variants, live plants that grow and offer shade in the tank and deflect direct light are a great addition and can help with tank stability as well.
Try using LED lighting for your freshwater fish aquariums as they offer the best full spectrum lighting and don’t heat up like other types of lighting does. They’re also more energy efficient.
And to make things easier on yourself, use a timer so your live plants get the exact amount of lighting they need. For most situations this is somewhere between 8 to 10 hours.
Aquarium Plants and Decorations
Aquarium plants and decorations are necessary for most Apistogramma aquariums and help keep your pet’s stress levels to a minimum and offer them a relatively stress free life. Most cichlids are actually shy and need hiding spaces when they are frightened or overwhelmed by tank mates.
Clay pots and driftwood make great cover and are easy enough to source and use. Just place a clay pot or two in your tank surrounded by a few small pieces of driftwood and that should be enough ‘cover’.
But don’t forget the live plants! Or think it’s to difficult to grow them, it’s not.
Plants help keep your pH stable and help to naturally improve water quality by truing waste into oxygen. They can also create canopies to fragment direct lighting.
Here are a few great choices when it comes to plants for a cichlid aquarium;
Water sprite is by far the best plant to have in a cichlid tank. This versatile plant is grown either rooted or you can let it just float creating a natural canvas that helps block direct light.
Java Moss is next on the list as a fantastic plant for cichlids. You only need a small piece to get started and it will slowly grow out from there. Java moss is also a great water filtration plant and adds a lot of ‘naturalness’ to any sort of Apistogramma tank set up.
Java Fern is another plant that is easily available and looks great. Once your plant starts growing you can cut of the rhizomes to make more plants. And this is a hardy plant that fish don’t eat, so it’ll last forever if you take care of them.
Substrate
When it comes to the substrate, you want to mimic your apistogrammas’ natural environment as much as possible. Most dwarf cichlids live in places that have either mud or sand bottoms and it will depend on which variants you choose to keep to know which to use.
One note, try keeping same species together! You don’t want one variety that prefers sand substrate tanks mixed with ones that require mud and decaying plant matter. Plan your main tank ahead and you’ll have happier fish.
Tank Maintenance
Water
In the wild, dwarf cichlids are mostly from rivers and streams which means they have a constant flow of fresh water to live in. You should do all you can to give them the same clean, fresh water in their tank.
That means have a water changing routine is paramount. Clean water really does make all the difference, and weekly water changes can make all the difference in your fish’s health.
You should be changing around 50 % of your tank water every 3 to 4 days for the absolute best results. You can even go more often if you have the time. The cleaner your water is, the better your aquarium will do.
Vacuuming
Vacuuming your tank is another necessity if you have a sandy bottom tank. Debris will accumulate on the floor and can cause havoc when it comes to pH levels and cleanliness.
Once a week is fine for most tanks to be vacuumed. And the cheap hand-squeezable option is good enough for most 20 gallon tanks. Just be aware of plant roots when vacuuming and make sure there are no fry that is vacuumed up by mistake.
Community Tank Mates
Believe it or not, dwarf cichlids enjoy having other fish around. A few appropriate apistogramma tank mates seems to make them feel calmer and less stressed. When they have the right tanks mates, you’ll notice they’ll come out more often and be more inquisitive about their surrounding and even you.
But what are the best tank mates to keep with dwarf cichlids?
Tetras and pencilfish are great picks for all of the cichlid species we’ve gone over here. They all swim in the upper water column and are not aggressive at all. In addition they’re big enough that your cichlids won’t eat them.
And they look great in school sizes of ten or more. A school of tetras along with one or two cichlids can all be kept together in the same 20 gallon tank or larger with no crowding.
When it comes to feeding your Apistogramma, remember most are omnivores and require both plant based foods and live or frozen foods like shrimp in order to have a balanced diet.
Luckily it’s pretty easy to feed your them a proper diet. Some commercial fish food and frozen or even dried brine shrimp are enough to keep your fish happy and well fed.
Don’t just feed them once a day, or let them go without food for long periods of time. This will stress out your fish and they’ll start showing signs of sickness.
And try to go the extra mile by adding some live food to the mix as often as possible and not just feeding them flake food. They are semi aggressive and watching them swim around devouring tiny shrimp or glass worms is a lot of fun to watch!
What Foods To Feed them?
Frozen foods: Frozen foods are the second best option as they are still healthier alternatives to dried flakes. And they come packaged so it’s also a convenient source of protein that sinks to the bottom of the tank where your fish are. The best one to get are blood worms which aren’t worms at all, but rather larvae. Small shrimp can also be found frozen, but the blood worms are still preferable over the shrimp. But they’ll do if that’s all you have.
Prepared Foods: These types of food are obviously the easiest to feed your fish with, but aren’t enough on their own. We highly recommend that you use live foods as often as possible. But a few times a week is okay. Instead of the flakes which to much can cause inferior water quality, we prefer using pellets as a prepared food source for our cichlids. Pellet foods hold up better and are just as easily obtainable and convenient as flaked food, but cause less pollution in your community tank. Look for the sinking type for the best results.
Brine Shrimp: The best option and most easily accessible are live shrimp. All pet stores carry these, and they’re cheap and easy to manage. Just buy a bag and drop some into the water and watch your fish go crazy hunting them all down. It’s one of my favorite things to watch!
White Worms: White worms are another easy choice and is found in most aquarium shops. The great part about these worms is that if you have a little space, you can just raise them yourself. And they multiply quickly, so you’ll always have a supply of healthy live food available all for free.
How Often Do I feed My Fish?
For dwarf cichlids, once in the morning and once at night is recommended. You can also split their food up as far as feeding live foods in the morning and pellet foods at night. Just go easy on the pellet foods, maybe 2 to 3 times a week only.
Breeding
Breeding Apistogramma or any bonded pair of fish for that matter is a wonder to watch and extremely rewarding experience.
This is definitely something for the more advanced aquarist, but there are many stories of people finding little fry in their tanks without even knowing they had breed apistos or something else.
So with a little knowledge and luck, even the beginner hobbyist can breed many of these types of dwarf cichlid and all without a special breeding tank set up.
Sexing
Sexing Apistogramma on the whole is petty easy. Most males are much more colorful and larger fish than the females, especially when it comes time to breed. So just by looking at your fish you should be able to tell what’s what.
The problem comes when they are juveniles and you’re looking to buy a breeding bonded pair. Some are extremely hard to tell apart when they’re young and it can take a very experienced hobbyist to know the difference.
So if you’re just starting out and want a juvenile pair, it’s best to consult with someone that really knows what they’re doing.
Feeding
For breeding you will definitely want to be feeding your pair live foods. Brine shrimp and larvae are best with some frozen blood worms once or twice a week for added fat seem to work very well when breeding.
The Tank Set Up
Your Apistogramma tank set up definitely plays a role in breeding successfully. First, the water quality needs to be as close to perfect as possible. Poor water conditions stress your Apistogramma and lower any chance of successful breeding, so make sure your water pH levels are in align to the type of fish you’re going to be breeding. And some people go as far as setting up a separate breeding tank for same species fish.
Shelter and Cover also play a major role. They are on the whole shy fish, so they need somewhere to hide out when they’re feeling stressed or overwhelmed.
Plus they need a place to actually lay their eggs and for safety when the eggs hatch. All this particular species needs is a somewhat partially closed in space to lay their eggs in or a separate breeding tank with a bonded pair ready for breeding. A simple clay plant pot can work or some driftwood placed to create small caves or caverns also works.
For the best results as far as survival rates for fry, use a clay flower pot in the breeding process and make the opening big enough for the female, but not the male. Believe it or not, the male can fertilize the eggs just fine from outside the pot. And he can’t eat them or the eggs.
And for the best results, make sure the cave or crevice is always dark, especially until the fry emerge!
Males may look like they’re being aggressive towards the female, but they are actually just showing off and trying to grab their attention, a bit like a peacock would showing off its feathers.
How Do I Know if my Female Has Spawned?
When she’s ready to finally spawn, most dwarf cichlid females will disappear into an enclosed space for a while. So if you notice she has been hiding for a few days, it’s a good sign that she is ready to, or already has spawned.
What to Feed Them?
After they first hatch, your babies will live on their egg sack for the first to 7 days. Once that is gone and they are mobile, small microfauna that are already found in most established community tanks will be enough for a few days.
After a week to ten days, you can add a small amount of fry powder mixed with water and drop it close to the fry group using a pipet or something similar. Do this up to three times a day until they are large enough to start eating small baby brine shrimp.
You can find specialized ‘small’ shrimp meant for specifically feeding fry at most aquarium shops or online.
After about a week they should be big enough to start eating the normal foods you’re feeding your adult fish. This is also a good time to move them to a breeding tank if you planned to.
FAQs
Can they be kept in a community tank?
Yes, dwarf cichlids actually do better in community tanks. The best fish to share a tank with are top water column schooling fish like tetras and pencilfish.
Are They hard to keep?
It depends on which one you want to keep. With over 100 sub-species in the cichlid family, there are a variety of levels of difficulty. But on the whole, even beginning aquarist can be successful keeping these.
How many should be kept together?
This depends on how large the tank is. For 20 gallon tanks it’s best to keep one to two fish, while larger tanks can hold schools of seven to ten.
Can I keep a single species?
Yes, it’s recommended to keep single species as mixing species can cause aggression, especially from males during breeding season.
Are they peaceful?
Surprisingly most dwarf cichlids are peaceful and make good companion fish. There are a few that are more semi aggressive, so it’s best to do your research before choosing the exact species to keep.
Can you keep them in a 10 gallon tank?
No, you shouldn’t keep these fish in 10 gallon tanks. 20 gallon tank is considered the smallest optimum set up for these as they like the bottom of the tank. And bigger is always better.
What can you keep with them?
The ideal community tank mates for a dwarf cichlid are upper water column schooling fish like tetras and pencilfish which both make ideal buddies. But most calm schooling fish can make good tank mates.
How many can live together?
It’s best to keep either single or pairs in smaller tanks. If you have a bigger tank, schools of 6 to 10 of the same species are okay, but it’s best to keep only one male and many females per tank to avoid aggression and possible death to the fighting males.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Apistogramma
Living with apistos is like keeping tiny, beautiful dictators. The male claims his territory and patrols it with the intensity of a fish ten times his size. He flares at anything that crosses his border, displays constantly, and puts on a color show that is hard to believe comes from a fish barely three inches long. The contrast between their small size and their enormous personality is what hooks people.
The breeding behavior is where apistos become truly addictive. When a female turns bright yellow and starts guarding a cave, you know eggs are coming. Watching her chase the male away from her brood, herd the fry around the tank, and teach them to pick at biofilm is fascinating. It is parenting behavior that rivals anything you see in nature documentaries. Once you witness your first successful apisto spawn, you understand why people dedicate entire fish rooms to this genus.
The downside is real. When water chemistry drifts, apistos are the first fish in the tank to show it. They fade, clamp their fins, stop eating, and hide. You test the water, find the pH crept up or the TDS climbed, and you realize this is a genus that keeps you honest. Lazy fishkeeping does not survive contact with apistogrammas.
Hard Rule: Apistogrammas require soft, acidic water (pH 5.5–7.0, TDS under 150 ppm) to maintain color and breed. Hard water suppresses breeding and causes gradual long-term health decline.
Is the Apistogramma Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You can maintain soft, acidic water chemistry consistently
You want a territorial dwarf cichlid with genuine personality and visible breeding behavior
You have caves, coconut shells, and line-of-sight breaks for territory
You enjoy fish that interact with their environment and claim specific areas of the tank
Avoid If:
Your tap water is hard and alkaline and you cannot soften it reliably
You want a peaceful community fish – pairs become aggressively territorial during spawning
You do not have hiding spots and territory dividers – these are non-optional for this species
You expect a consistent temperament year-round – breeding cycles change their behavior dramatically
In Closing
Apistogrammas do not adapt to your water. You adapt your water to them, or they die.
Apistogramma species are amazing fish and a beautiful addition to any dwarf cichlid tank. These relatively small fish are a joy to watch, breed and even feed when using live foods.
And there are plenty of color patterns and varieties to choose from, as well as levels of difficulty in keeping. So as a beginner hobbyist you can start off with an easy dwarf cichlid, then work your way up to more advanced fish keeping with rarer and more difficult specimens like a dwarf cockatoo cichlid.
Who knows, maybe one day you’ll be an Apistogramma specialist.
The Balloon Molly has a compressed spine. That is not a feature. It is a deformity bred into the fish for aesthetics. These fish have shorter lifespans, swim awkwardly, and struggle to compete for food.
Balloon mollies are popular. That does not make the breeding behind them right.
The biggest challenge with Balloon Molly Fish is not keeping them alive. It is managing how fast they multiply.
The Balloon Molly Fish breeds constantly and lives 3 to 5 years. You need a plan for fry before you buy your first pair, or your tank will be overrun within months.
Livebearers teach you more about population management than any textbook ever will.
ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner
Balloon mollies are a fancy balloon-body variant of regular mollies with the same care requirements. They are hardy livebearers that prefer hard, alkaline water and breed prolifically. Manage the fry population.
In this article, we’ll explore other areas of Balloon Molly fish and how it enhances the beauty of your aquariums.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Balloon Molly Fish
Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.
A lot of guides suggest Balloon Molly Fish can go in practically any nano tank. That is technically true, but a cramped setup leads to stress and shorter lifespans. Even small fish benefit from a bit of extra space and stable water chemistry that comes with slightly larger volumes. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Balloon Molly Fish are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Balloon Molly Fish
Breeding is not optional. It is automatic. If you have males and females, you will have fry within weeks. Most new owners are not prepared for the population explosion. You need a plan, whether that is a grow-out tank, selling to a local store, or keeping predators that naturally control numbers.
Water hardness matters more than people realize. Livebearers come from hard, alkaline water. Keeping them in soft, acidic conditions leads to chronic health problems, fin clamping, and shortened lifespans. If your tap water is soft, livebearers are not ideal unless you buffer the water.
Male aggression is constant. Males chase females relentlessly. Without a ratio of at least two females per male, the females get stressed, stop eating, and weaken. Overcrowding males does not solve this. It makes it worse.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Buying one male and one female thinking it will be manageable. Within three months you have 30 to 50 fish in a tank designed for 10. Always plan for breeding output before you buy your first pair.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
If you are keeping livebearers, you are a breeder whether you planned to be or not. Accept it early and have a plan for the fry. That single decision prevents 90% of livebearer problems.
Key Takeaways
The balloon belly Molly fish is a result of selective breeding, which was specifically bred to have scoliosis.
These fish have a deformity that causes arched back and swollen, protruding belly
They are smaller in size and make great community tank fish but should never be kept with large aggressive fish
They have a relatively shorter lifespan than other molly fish species
Fish Species Overview
Scientific Name
Poecilia sphenops
Common Name
Balloon Molly, Balloon Belly Molly, Belly Mollies, Pot Belly Molly
Family
Poecilia Latipinna
Origin
North and Central America
Diet
Omnivore
Care Level
Easy
Activity
Slow
Lifespan
3 to 5 years
Temperament
Peaceful
Tank Level
All levels
Minimum Tank Size
10 gallons for a single fish
Temperature Range
75°F to 82°F
Water Hardness
10-25 dGH
pH Range
7.5 to 8.5
Filtration/Water Flow
Slow moving
Water Type
Freshwater, tropical fish
Breeding
Livebearers
Difficulty to Breed
Easy
Compatibility
Compatible with peaceful community fish
OK, for Planted Tanks?
Yes
Classification
Taxonomic Rank
Classification
Common Name
Balloon Molly
Scientific Name
Poecilia latipinna (selectively bred)
Order
Cyprinodontiformes
Family
Poeciliidae
Genus
Poecilia
Species
P. Latipinna (variant)
What Are They?
Balloon Mollies (Poecilia latipinna) are livebearers. Live-bearing fish species are those in which female balloon mollies give birth to live baby balloon mollies. These fish species are native to Central America and Mexico. Like many other live-bearing fish species, Belly mollies grow very quickly and reach maturity at the age of 3 months. This molly is a hybrid breed of the original molly fish.
Origin And Habitat
The Balloon Molly fish originates from North and Central America. Like Guppies, Platies, and Swordtails, these fish species also belong to the family Poeciliidae. Many aquarists believe the origin of Balloon Molly is the Gulf of Mexico, especially from the brackish water of Texas, Louisiana, and Mexico.
Chances are, they are found in the freshwater streams and rivers in those regions. Today, Balloon Molly is a popular aquarium fish that is widely kept and enjoyed in the fishkeeping world because they are vibrant, beautiful, hardy fish and easy to care for.
Appearance
The Balloon belly Molly fish are small fish with a beautiful, colorful appearance and a unique body shape. Their body shape stays true to their name because these fish species are balloon shaped. They have round bellies and small heads. Their bodies are covered in shiny scales that showcase a subtle metallic but graceful luster.
The Balloon belly mollies are most commonly found in black and orange colors. However, the color variety in these ballon mollies is diverse. They is found in hues of silver, gold, and green. The dorsal fin of Pot belly mollies is large, running through the top of their body. They also have a small present near their tail.
The difference between male balloon mollies and Balloon Molly females is in their bodies. The male fish are smaller and slimmer than female mollies. Male fish also have modified anal fins that fertilize the females during breeding. Comparatively, female mollies are bigger in size and have round anal fins.
Common Varieties (Types)
The most common types of Balloon Molly are black and orange. However, the beauty of these aquarium fish is not limited to these colors. There are several varieties of Balloon Molly that can enhance the beauty of your home aquariums.
Black
They are majorly black in color, with rounded bodies and small heads. Their distinctive appearance gives them the shape of a balloon. They also have a shiny metallic sheen on their bodies that makes them stand out in your aquariums.
Dalmatian
As the name suggests, the Dalmatian ballon mollies have pearl-white or cream-colored bodies with black spots all over, giving them a Dalmatian-like appearance.
Gold Pot Belly
The bodies of hold pot belly Molly are yellowish-golden with a metallic shine. The Gold variety is very popular due to its bright, lustrous color and easy-for-care nature.
Silver Belly
Silver belly balloon mollies are silver in color with a metallic shine. When they swim, they reflect light that looks beautiful and adds a unique touch to your aquariums.
Lyretail Fish
Unlike other fish, the Lyretail Balloon mollies have a lyre-shaped caudal fin that is longer and flowier than other fish species.
Marble
The marbled and multicolored variants of fish species have a beautiful multicolored body with patterns of black, white, and orange colors that resemble the marbles. Hence, the name. The intensity of the colors of Marble largely depends on other factors such as diet, water temperature, water parameters, and more.
Lifespan
Unfortunately, the lifespan of Balloon Mollies is short compared to other fish species. The average lifespan is around three to five years. One major reason that contributes to the short life expectancy is selective breeding. Also, their large bellies make it difficult for them to swim, so they are slow swimmers and slow feeders.
The lifespan of Balloon Molly depends on water conditions; they thrive in the freshwater tank because brackish or saltwater makes them susceptible to fish diseases.
Average Size
Want color and activity without breeding headaches? Get all males. Want a self-sustaining colony? Get a proper male-to-female ratio and a grow-out tank.
Balloon mollies are small fish, growing around 3 to 4 inches in length. Also, the size of ballon mollies depends on their diet, water temperatures, genetics, and Tank setup.
In general, female balloon mollies are larger than males and has round bellies with more prominent anal fins.
Balloon Molly Fish Care
Fortunately, as pretty as they seem, balloon Molly is peaceful fish that is easy to keep in a freshwater tank. They are also great for beginners in the aquarium hobby.
However, you should always care for their aquarium conditions and maintain their ideal water parameters to keep them happy and thriving.
Tank Setup
As mentioned earlier, balloon mollies are not challenging species. They need their ideal water conditions and a properly balanced diet to thrive in your fish tank. Also, some basic aquarium equipment, such as filters and aquarium heaters, are essential.
Tank Size
Though Balloon Mollies are small fish species, they need ample space for swimming as they are active fish. Thus, a fish tank of 10 gallons is the bare minimum for Ballon Mollies. If you’re keeping more than one fish, then consider adding 2 to 3 gallons of aquarium water per fish to keep them entertained and happy.
Remember, providing enough swimming space and a balanced diet will help your Balloon Mollies grow to their best potential. If possible, go over 10 gallons to maintain stable water conditions and provide more free swimming space to your finned pals.
Water Parameters
The tank water of Balloon Mollie’s tank should be slightly alkaline with a pH of around 7.5 to 8.5. The ideal water temperatures are 75°F to 82°F. Balloon Molly fish prefers water hardness of around 10-25 dGH.
I also advise performing regular water changes with 10% to 20% of the tank volume to keep your tank water healthy and free of bacteria.
Lighting
For the lighting, keep it lightly dim as Balloon Molly fish do not appreciate high-intensity lighting. They are naturally brackish fish and prefer a lower-light environment. Also, consider a lighting schedule of no more than 12 hours followed by 12 hours of darkness.
Choose aquarium lights that are appropriate for your Balloon Molly and live plants. I recommend installing adjustable LED lights to avoid algae growth.
Aquatic Plants
Balloon Molly fish appreciates a heavily planted aquarium with lots of hiding spots. Therefore, it’s crucial to add live plants to your fish tank. The best aquatic live plants for balloon mollies are low light plants such as:
Balloon Mollies love hiding places and swimming space. Therefore, a well-decorated tank is crucial for their health. You can use rocks and driftwood to create hiding places and a natural-looking environment. Also, caves and tunnels are made of aquarium-safe materials and are an excellent option for creating fun hiding places. Besides, you can add other items, such as a few decorative rocks, ceramic statues, and fake corals, to add visual aesthetics.
Balloon mollies enjoy sandy substrates as they are easy to clean and never hold debris. You can also use gravel instead of sand or a combination of both. In any case, be mindful of the depth of the substrate, especially for a planted tank. The depth of your substrate should be no less than 2 to 3 inches.
Tank Maintenance
Proper tank maintenance is the key to keeping your fish’s health in optimal condition. Thus, regular water changes should be done to maintain the water quality. Also, water changes of 20% to 30% are recommended in a week to get rid of toxins and fish waste.
If you’ve installed a filter, make sure to clean it regularly and replace filter media. I also advise installing an aquarium thermometer to monitor the water temperature and pH to prevent stress and illness in your fish.
Lastly, do regular water testing to rule out any problems with the water quality and keep your tank a safe place for your balloon Mollies.
Community Tank Mates
Balloon belly mollies are small, peaceful fish that can live with other species with the same temperament peacefully. However, avoid keeping them with larger, active, and aggressive fish, as balloon mollies are slow swimmers and slow eaters. The larger, more aggressive fish might bully and harm your little belly mollies.
Here are the following community tank mates that are ideal for keeping with your balloon mollies.
If you want to breed balloon mollies, I’ve some great news for you.
Breeding balloon mollies in an aquarium is not a challenging task, provided that you’ve given them the right meaty foods, proper aquarium size, and ideal water quality conditions.
Balloon Mollies are also very peaceful fish, ideal for community tanks. However, they eat their young ones. Therefore, it’s best to separate Molly’s babies from their parents. The best part is the female Molly is able to reproduce 40 to 50 tiny babies. Thus, breeding becomes a breeze. Also, your breeding tank should have live plants to maintain the’s health and provide your fish with lots of hiding places.
Here are some of the steps you can take to breed Balloon Mollies (video source):
It’s advisable to prepare a separate breeding tank where the aquarium size should be at least 30 gallons. Also, set up an aquarium heater, filter, and good lighting to encourage healthy breeding.
Pick your best male and female pair and introduce them gradually into the breeding tank. While choosing the breeding pair, make sure the male is smaller in size than the female Molly.
Provide them with protein-rich food, including live or frozen food such as frozen brine shrimp, to ensure proper health.
Once the breeding pair is ready, mating will take place naturally. Balloon mollies are livebearers. After the female is fertilized, she will carry the fry until they are ready to be born.
When the female Molly is pregnant, it is advisable to separate the males and females to avoid aggression towards the Molly fry.
After 60 days or so, the female Molly gives birth to Molly fry. The initial fry diet is crushed flake food, baby Brine shrimp, and commercial fry food. The frequency of meals should be 2-3 times a day.
Once the fry grows, they are moved back to the main tank.
Food And Diet
Balloon belly Molly are omnivores that prefer a simple but protein-rich diet. In captivity, you can feed them a balanced diet including flakes and pellets, live foods, or frozen foods such as bloodworms, shrimps, daphnia, and mosquito larvae; you can also feed them vegetables such as spinach, zucchini, or spirulina flakes.
I also advise feeding algae wafers or pellets in their diet to mimic their natural behavior. And fulfill their instincts.
Common Health Problems
Though Balloon mollies are hardy fish and easy to care for, even for beginner fish keepers, there are times when this fish is highly susceptible to diseases and illness. The common health problems of balloon mollies are:
Ich
Ich is categorized by small white spots on the fish’s skin and fins due to a parasitic infection. Ich is highly fatal if left untreated.
Fin Rot
Fin rot is a bacterial infection in which the affected fish has frayed, ragged fins.
Swim Bladder Disease
Poor water quality, bacterial infections, poor hygiene, or overfeeding cause swim bladder disease. The affected fish show erratic swimming behaviors and float to the tank’s surface or may sink to the bottom of the tank.
Dropsy
Dropsy results from a bacterial infection that collects fluid in the fish’s body. The diseased fish seems bloated and well-fed. Dropsy is a fatal disease that might lead to a slow death if not treated properly.
Velvet Disease
Velvet disease is caused by a parasite that causes lethargy, loss of weight, loss of appetite, and difficulty in swimming or breathing.
FAQS
How Many Should Be Kept Together?
The Balloon Molly is a peaceful community tank fish that enjoys a group of at least 3 to 5 fish species.
Are They Hard To Keep?
No, Balloon Mollies are easy to keep and highly adaptable fish. But there are certain requirements to keep them happy and thriving, including their ideal tank size, water temperature, water parameters, live plants, and more.
Do They Need A Heater?
Yes, Belly mollies need a heater since they are tropical fish that need a stable water temperature of around 72-82°F.
How Many Should Be Kept Together?
As many balloon mollies as you want since they are social and peaceful fish species. However, consider the tank size and avoid overcrowding the tank.
What Temperature Do They Like?
Balloon belly Molly is a tropical freshwater fish that prefers temperatures around 72-82°F.
What Size Tank Do They Need?
Balloon belly Molly are small fish, but they need ample swimming space and lots of hiding places. Therefore, a tank of around 10 gallons or more is required to keep them happy.
Do They Breed Easily?
Yes, balloon mollies are easy to breed in captivity. However, you should provide them with a separate breeding tank catering to all their needs to ensure successful and healthy breeding.
Hard Rule: The balloon body shape is a selective deformity that compresses internal organs. These fish have shorter lifespans and higher disease susceptibility than standard mollies. If health is the priority, choose standard mollies instead.
Is the Balloon Molly Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You appreciate the unique rounded appearance and are comfortable with the tradeoffs
You want a peaceful, easy-going community fish for a 20+ gallon tank
You already keep mollies and want a visually distinctive variant
You understand and accept that deformity-line fish live shorter lives
Avoid If:
You want the hardiest, longest-lived version of a molly – standard mollies are significantly more robust
You plan to breed – balloon body deformities pass to offspring and worsen over generations
You have ethical objections to fish bred for physical deformities
You want a fish that can be kept with standard hard water parameters without extra attention to health
Final Thoughts
Balloon belly Molly is a fancy version of the regular mollies. However, they are smaller in size, with a shorter lifespan, and have rounder bellies with arched backs and extended dorsal fins. By the looks and overview of this fish, you may misunderstand it as one of those “high-maintenance fish.” However, they are easy to care for, peaceful, and super hardy fish, selectively bred to adorn your home aquariums.
Hillstream loaches require very high water flow, high oxygenation, and cool temperatures (65-75 degrees F/18-24 degrees C). They are specialized fish that cannot thrive in standard community tank setups.
The Hillstream Loach needs fast-moving, oxygen-saturated water. This is not optional. Without strong current from a powerhead or river manifold, it will slowly suffocate even in a well-filtered tank. Standard tropical setups are fundamentally wrong for this species. Build the right environment or do not buy the fish.
If you can’t feel the current by holding your hand in the tank, it’s not enough flow for a hillstream loach.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Hillstream Loach
Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Hillstream Loach without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Hillstream Loach are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Hillstream Loach
The hillstream loach is not a tropical fish and it does not belong in a standard community tank. It needs water temperatures between 65 and 75F with strong, oxygen-rich current. A standard aquarium filter does not provide enough flow. You need a powerhead, a river manifold, or a specialized hillstream setup to keep this fish properly.
Most hillstream loaches sold in pet stores die within a year because they are kept in warm, still water. The fish is not fragile. The setup is wrong. In a properly configured coolwater tank with strong flow and smooth rocks, hillstream loaches are hardy and long-lived.
They eat biofilm and algae, not fish food. A hillstream loach in a sterile, algae-free tank will starve. The tank needs mature surfaces covered in biofilm and green algae. Supplementing with blanched vegetables and algae wafers helps, but natural biofilm growth is the primary food source.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Putting them in a standard heated tropical community tank. Hillstream loaches need cool water (65 to 75F) and strong current that replicates their native river habitat. A 78F tank with a hang-on-back filter is slowly killing them. Every single day in warm, still water shortens their lifespan.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
A dedicated hillstream setup with a river manifold, smooth river rocks, temperatures around 68 to 72F, and high oxygen levels is one of the most unique aquarium configurations in the hobby. Hillstream loaches in their element are active, visible, and fascinating. Hillstream loaches in a standard tropical tank are stressed, hidden, and dying. The setup makes or breaks this fish entirely.
Key Takeaways
The Hillstream Loach is a peaceful fish that grows up to 3 inches
It is a social fish that prefers to be kept in groups
They are bottom-dwelling fish that will eat pest snails
They will not bother plants and are great for aquascapes
Introduction to Hillstream Loaches
Hillstream loaches will not be found on a top 10 freshwater fish to buy list, but that doesn’t mean that they don’t make a great addition to any beginner or expert aquarium! These fish are one of the most attractive algae-eating species available, but they have some special requirements when it comes to their tank setup and feeding. It’s also important to note that these are expensive fish, with individual fish fetching upwards of $10-$20.
In general, the hillstream loach, scientifically known as Sewellia lineolata, is considered a coldwater species that prefers water temperatures in the mid 60s to low 70s. This makes them compatible with goldfish and cooler-water fish, like white cloud minnows (Tanichthys albonubes) and zebra danios (Danio rerio); they especially like being kept in small groups with one another. That being said, many hobbyists have successfully kept these fish with typical tropical fish in water temperatures up to 80° F.
The common name ‘hillstream loach’ also refers to the overall Balitoridae scientific family instead of the singular species; this group also be known as river loaches. From this family, many members of the Sewellia genus are available for trade in the aquarium hobby.
Appearance
The appearance of the hillstream loach can tell you everything you need to know about the natural habitats of this fish. These fish are undeniably flat!
The flat body of the hillstream loach and its strong suckermouth are designed to keep these fish attached to hard surfaces when up against a strong water current. Their flattened fins allow them to scoot across these surfaces and the substrate without having to swim up into the water column, where they would easily be pushed away. All these features make these loaches resemble tiny little freshwater stingrays!
Hillstream loaches have unique reticulated black and yellowish-green spots and stripes that help them blend in against sandy and rocky surfaces. They have very short barbels that help them locate food.
It can be near impossible to tell male hillstream loaches apart from females, especially if trying to differentiate between juveniles. Adult hillstream loaches can be told apart due to the broadness of their heads. Females have very broad heads that are nearly the same width as their pectoral fins. Males have square heads that stick out from the rest of the body. Male hillstream loaches also develop ‘fences’, or small raised bumps, along their pectoral fin and head area.
How Big Do They Get?
Adult hillstream loaches only grow to about 3 inches. As we’ll see though, these small fish like to be kept in groups which can start to increase bioload.
Are They A Type of Pleco?
At first glance, it’s easy to confuse a hillstream loach with a pleco fish from the Loricariidae family. However, hillstream loaches and plecos are not even remotely related. In fact, their similarities end with their matching colors and body shapes.
The differences begin when they diverge as different taxonomic species at the order level, where hillstream loaches are members of the Cypriniformes family and plecos are members of the Loricariidae family. The biggest difference between these two fish is that hillstream loaches originate from Southeast Asia, while plecos are found throughout South America. Other morphological differences also become apparent when put side to side.
Take a guess where the hillstream loach originates. If you answered with hill streams, then you’d be correct!
Hillstream loaches come from shallow and well-oxygenated, fast-moving rivers and streams throughout Vietnam, Laos, and Cambodia1. They’ve been documented in some veins of the famous Mekong River, which houses some of the largest freshwater fish ever recorded.
Due to the high water flow of these waterways, the substrate is usually composed of smooth rocks and gravel. Because of this intense water movement, most plant species cannot take root. Instead, these shallow areas receive high amounts of sunlight, facilitating biofilm and other algae growth for hillstream loaches to feed on.
Hillstream Loach Care
Hillstream loaches are considered a moderate fish species to keep in terms of difficulty. These are peaceful freshwater fish that have a few specific requirements, though they is more adaptable than we think.
Are They Hard to Keep?
There are a few reasons why hillstream loaches are considered more difficult to keep than your average tropical fish, but there are a few myths behind their care too.
One of the main reasons the hillstream loach is seen as a difficult species to keep is due to its price tag–it’s true! These fish are expensive to buy, and so logic follows that they’re hard to keep. Unfortunately, this creates a lot of rumors about these fish and limits them to a certain group of hobbyists.
Another reason why hillstream loaches are seen as difficult is that many hobbyists believe they only do well in fish tank setups that match the exact parameters as seen in their natural habitat ecosystems. This includes oxygen-rich water with high currents and lots of biofilm. While these conditions should try to be met as best as possible, it’s been proven that they’re not necessary to ensure that hillstream loaches thrive.
In fact, a hillstream loach tank can look very different from one hobbyist to another. Some people keep them with coldwater goldfish, while others keep them with typical tropical fish species. Like all other fish species, the key to keeping these beautiful loaches is maintaining water parameters and quality.
Aquarium Setup
A hillstream loach tank can look like a lot of different things. These are versatile fish that can be kept in various aquarium setups.
There are four main hillstream loach aquarium setups you can consider:
1. Goldfish Tank
Hillstream loaches originate from cool waters, which allow them to live in the lower temperatures preferred by goldfish. However, there are a few things that need to be considered before just throwing these loaches in with any goldfish. Hillstream loaches still prefer well-oxygenated, fast-flowing water with stable parameters. Many fancy goldfish cannot swim against an overly strong current, and large goldfish can create a lot of waste that creates instability in water chemistry.
If planning on keeping hillstream loaches with goldfish, only keep goldfish breeds capable of swimming against a strong current while also maintaining water quality. This aquarium setup should have minimal decorations to meet goldfish requirements, but still have some structures for your loaches to hide and graze.
2. Coldwater Setup
Goldfish aren’t the only type of coldwater fish. A coldwater fish tank can house a variety of fish and plant species that prefer cooler temperatures. These setups can be complex or straightforward in design, but plenty of space and the surface area should be allotted to your loach.
3. River Tank
A river tank is the most natural habitat you could give your hillstream loach. This aquarium setup would mimic the fast-moving, boulder-filled streams and rivers these fish originate from. Powerful filtration and powerheads circulate water to create a constant current that agitates the surface water to introduce oxygen. Plants would be minimal, with intense lighting that facilitates algae growth.
4. Tropical Community Tank
Lastly, hillstream loaches can be kept in a community tank setting. You may be wondering how to keep a coldwater species in warm water temperatures, but these fish are surprisingly adaptable. Most hillstream loaches have adapted to aquarium water parameters, meaning that they can comfortably survive in water temperatures up to 80° F.
These community tanks can be filled with your favorite tetras, rasboras, and featured fish. However, make sure to ask the previous owner the water temperature at which your fish was being kept so that you can acclimate it correctly.
There are many ways that you can keep a hillstream loach in your aquarium. There are a few additional rules to keeping them safe within your setup, though.
One thing to consider is that hillstream loaches are agile fish that have the ability to travel upstream and over waterfalls. The glass wall of an aquarium is no feat and they can easily travel their way up the side and out. To help prevent this, make sure to use a tight-fitting aquarium lid.
Another thing to consider is that these fish are relatively delicate. They also have very strong suckermouths that can easily become attached to a filter intake or other equipment. Make sure to use a filter guard to prevent this from happening while also giving your fish more room to graze!
Tank Size
The hillstream loach is a relatively small fish that stays on the bottom of the aquarium. However, they are relatively active and appreciate plenty of room for grazing on algae so they won’t do well in an overly small tank.
What Size Tank Do They Need?
The best tank size for a small group of 3 hillstream loaches is 20 gallons; a longer tank will provide more open swimming space and surfaces for algae to grow for your loaches. Hobbyists keep a single hillstream loach in a 10 gallon fish tank, but these fish do best when kept in groups.
Any aquarium larger than 20 gallons will comfortably house hillstream loches as long as there is enough room for adequate water flow and filtration. You will also need to consider which hillstream loach tank mates you plan on keeping and if you want to keep them in a group. These fish are very sociable with each other, but will largely leave other fish unbothered.
Water Parameters
Hillstream loaches aren’t necessarily sensitive fish, but they will thrive when freshwater aquarium conditions are stable. They should be kept in a mature tank with 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and minimal nitrates. Hillstream loaches can adapt to a wide range of pH and hardness levels but do best in water that tests between 6.5-7.5 and 10-15 KH, respectively.
Depending on the type of freshwater tank you plan on keeping your hillstream loach in, water temperature should remain stable between 64-80° F.
Filtration and Aeration
Filtration and aeration are some of the most important factors of this hillstream loach care guide. These fish come from very fast-moving waterways that are filled with oxygen! Recreating that in the aquarium can be difficult, but it’s also unnecessary.
If you want to keep your hillstream loaches in a setup that resembles their natural habitats most, then you will need strong filtration and aeration. Together, a powerful filter and an aerator can create a unidirectional water flow that carries dissolved oxygen; additional wave pumps may be needed to create the desired effect. The filter will create surface movement while the wave pump pushes the rest of the water column. The aerator can be placed anywhere in the tank to help introduce additional oxygen.
Lighting
Hillstream loaches are one of the few species of bottom feeders that stays active throughout the day. These peaceful fish have diurnal sleep cycles where they are awake during the day and sleep at night. This is in contrast to most loaches and catfish that wait until the cover of night to emerge.
Remember, the hillstream loach can usually be found eating algae in shallow waters under direct sunlight. This means that they can withstand relatively high lighting intensities in the aquarium, though shade from driftwood and smooth rocks should be provided throughout the tank in case they want to hide.
Aquarium Plants and Decorations
Though tank conditions might allow for live aquarium plants with intense lighting, they’re not necessary for the success of your hillstream loach. Unlike most other fish species in the wild, hillstream loaches take shelter under rocks and other structures instead of plants.
In the aquarium, hillstream loaches will appreciate plants for coverage and shade. They will also gladly eat any algae that grow on the leaves without eating any of the healthy ones.
If keeping your hillstream loach in high-flow conditions, then you’ll need sturdy plants that can withstand the current. Some recommended species are Java fern (Leptochilus pteropus), Amazon sword (Echinodorus grisebachii), and members of Bolbitis.
This loach species isn’t the most difficult to keep, but water quality needs to be maintained. Hillstream loaches are sensitive to excess nutrients and rapid changes in parameters. Regular tank maintenance is necessary to keep nutrients down and replenish the tank water.
In general, 10-25% weekly or biweekly water changes are recommended for any tank. During water changes, the substrate can be siphoned for leftover food and other fish waste. Planted tanks will process nutrients better than those without any plants.
Since these fish can be kept in coldwater setups, it is necessary to chill new water than warm it up, as most tropical fish keepers need to do otherwise.
Substrate
Hillstream loaches can be kept on a variety of substrates, but it’s important that whatever you choose doesn’t cause injury to the underside of your fish. In the wild, the substrate is eroded down by fast-moving water. This allows the smooth bodies of hillstream loaches to stay safe from jagged rocks and twigs.
The best aquarium substrate for a hillstream loach would be sand or fine gravel.
Though beautiful fish, a group of hillstream loaches won’t fill a tank on their own. You need tank mates that stay active in the middle and top portions of the water column! Again, the best hillstream loach tank mates will depend on the type of aquarium setup you keep them in.
For goldfish tanks, hillstream loaches will do well with active goldfish breeds that aren’t weighed down by excess finnage or appendages. For general coldwater tank setups, your loach can get along with danios and white cloud minnows.
There aren’t too many aquarium fish that originate from the exact same areas as the hillstream loach, but there are a few species that do well in a river tank setup. This includes freshwater gobies and danios as well.
Hillstream loaches can also be kept in the same tank as popular tropical fish, like tetras, gouramis, and other bottom-dwellers as long as they are with other peaceful species. They can even be safely kept with dwarf shrimp!
Aggressive and predatory fish will stress out and even injure unprotected loaches.
Food and Diet
Though they greatly enjoy benthic algae, hillstream loaches are omnivores that need both meat- and plant-based foods. One of the difficult aspects of keeping hillstream loaches is ensuring they get enough to eat as other fish may eat their food before them.
Hillstream loaches will enjoy a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried options including brine shrimp, insect larvae, and bloodworms. They can be given algae wafers and a variety of blanched vegetables, including lettuce and cucumber, to supplement their vegetative needs.
To help make sure that your loaches are getting enough to eat, feed the rest of the tank floating fish flakes while providing your hillstream loaches with sinking food. This should keep the other fish in the aquarium distracted while your hillstream loaches eat.
Breeding Them
Hillstream loaches have been successfully bred in the aquarium hobby and are considered one of the easiest loach species to breed in general. This is great due to their high retail price!
It should be noted that hillstream loach breeding is possible in all aquarium setup types, not just coldwater ones. Differentiating males from females can also be difficult if they’re not fully mature adults.
Hillstream loaches can be bred in a separate tank or in the main display. It’s strongly believed that sudden warm to cold water temperature changes encourage spawning, which can be replicated with a succession of water changes. Eventually, the male will begin to entertain and chase the female; the male may even try to dislodge the female from her attached surface.
When ready, the couple will pair up freely in the water column. This often happens in the area with the most flow. The theory is that the fertilized eggs will be transported downstream to more relaxed water conditions. In the aquarium, this can lead to many eggs and fry being sucked up by the filter.
Once the eggs hatch, the fry should be fed infusoria. They are not able to suction themselves to surfaces as well as their parents at small sizes, so they will mainly be found along the substrate. Parents are unlikely to eat their young, but it’s still advised to separate them as soon as possible to have the most success.
Where to Buy
Hillstream Loaches are widely available at most local fish stores and online. For healthy, quality stock I recommend checking out Flip Aquatics. They consistently have great fish and back every order with a live arrival guarantee. Dan’s Fish is another solid option with a wide selection of freshwater species.
This article is part of our Loach Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.
Recommended Video
Check out our loach tier list video where we rank all the popular loach species for home aquariums:
What It Is Actually Like Living With Hillstream Loach
Watching a hillstream loach navigate strong current is unlike anything else in the hobby. They suction to rocks and glass, crawl against the flow, and hold position in current that would sweep other fish downstream. Their flattened body and specialized pelvic fins are engineered for this exact purpose.
They graze constantly. A hillstream loach works its way across every hard surface in the tank, rasping biofilm with a mouth designed for the task. You can watch the clean trails they leave on algae-covered rocks. It is satisfying in the same way watching a Roomba clean a floor is satisfying.
Temperature is something you monitor daily with this species. A summer heatwave that pushes your tank above 78F is a genuine health emergency. Keeping a fan directed at the water surface or running a chiller during warm months is standard practice for hillstream keepers.
Hard Rule: Hillstream loaches require strong, highly oxygenated flow that exceeds what most aquarium setups provide. A powerhead or wavemaker pointed to create a river current is not optional — it is their habitat.
Is the Hillstream Loach Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You can provide strong, directional current from a powerhead or wavemaker
You want an unusual, coin-shaped loach that clings to glass and rocks
You keep a cool-water setup at 65–75°F (18–24°C) with high oxygen saturation
You enjoy fish that are more display-oriented and substrate-focused than active swimmers
Avoid If:
Your tank has calm or low flow – hillstream loaches will decline rapidly without strong current
You keep delicate plants that cannot handle constant turbulence
You run a warm tropical tank – they need cooler, highly oxygenated water
You want a typical beginner-friendly bottom dweller like corydoras
Conclusion
You won’t find the hillstream loach on many top-fish-to-buy lists, but there’s no reason you can’t add one of these beautiful fish to your coldwater or tropical fish tank. Hillstream loaches originate from unique ecosystems, but they’ve adapted well to hobby tank conditions and will even be willing to breed. The only problem you may run into with these loaches is making sure they get enough to eat, but otherwise, hillstream loach care is straightforward and easy.
Big eyes in fish aren’t just a quirky trait. they’re almost always an adaptation. Nocturnal hunters, blackwater species, deep-sea fish, and animals that live in murky, low-visibility environments all evolved larger eyes to gather more light. I’ve kept several species over the years that are notably big-eyed for exactly this reason, and understanding why they look that way usually tells you a lot about how to keep them.
This list covers 15 of the most fascinating big-eyed fish. a mix of aquarium-keepable species and some deep-sea oddities that are genuinely mind-bending.
Key Takeaways
There are both freshwater and saltwater fish with these traits
Some examples are telescope goldfish, squirrel fish, and the giant squid
Night Vision, hunting, and selective breeding are the main reasons for fish having big eyes
Some of the fish on our list, while having large eyes, are not suitable for home aquariums
15 Amazing Fish With Big Eyes
Are you ready to meet some amazing big-eyed fish? We’ve chosen 15 fascinating fish from the coral reefs of the Pacific Ocean to brackish waters in South America. Read along to learn some fascinating facts about each one and why they have such big eyes.
So let’s dive right in!
1. Black Moor Goldfish
Family: Cyprinidae
Scientific name: Carassius auratus
Size: 6 – 8 inches
Water type: Freshwater
Aquarium friendly? Yes
The black moor goldfish is a wonderful pet fish with some pretty extreme eyes. Unlike their wild ancestors, these fish are pure black with huge eyes and a double tail.
This fancy breed is the all-black version of the telescope goldfish. They thrive in cool water aquariums and are easy to find in pet stores worldwide.
Their huge eyes are the product of centuries of selective breeding. In fact, they were probably first bred in the 15th century in China and were brought to the United States in the 1800s.
2. Bubble-Eye Goldfish
Family: Cyprinidae
Scientific name: Carassius auratus
Size: 3 – 5 inches
Water type: Freshwater
Aquarium friendly? Yes
The bubble eye goldfish is another amazing fancy goldfish breed. Just like the telescope goldfish above, these fish have been bred to have some pretty extreme features.
Bubble-eye goldfish have a huge, fluid-filled sack below each eye, which causes their large eyes to point upwards all of the time. These small freshwater fish also differ from regular goldfish by lacking a dorsal fin on their back.
3. Pufferfish
Family: Tetraodontidae
Scientific name: varied
Size: 1 – 20 inches
Water type: Fresh, brackish, and saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Selected species
There are nearly 200 species of pufferfish in the world. Most of these unusual fish live in brackish and saltwater, although there are also some amazing freshwater species. Many pufferfish have huge eyes, but their most distinctive feature is probably their parrot-like beak.
Puffers really live up to their name when they get upset. These fish literally inflate with water or air to make themselves much larger and more difficult to eat. If a predator still wants to take a bite, these big-eyed fish are often highly toxic, so most fish prefer to leave puffers in peace!
4. Squirrel-Fish
Family: Holocentridae
Scientific name: Sargocentron spp.
Size: 3 – 19 inches
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Selected species
Squirrel fish are tropical marine fish from the Holocentrinae subfamily. These fish can be common on coral reefs where they entertain divers with their beautiful colors and big eyes.
Some species, like the striped squirrel fish, make beautiful aquarium fish, although these guys prefer dark tanks. They are nocturnal and use their big eyes to detect their prey, like shrimp and other sea creatures.
5. Hawaiian Lionfish
Family: Scorpaenidae
Scientific name: Dendrochirus barberi
Size: 6.5 inches
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Yes, with caution
The Hawaiian lionfish is a beautiful but dangerous marine fish with big eyes and venomous spines. Their bright red eyes stand out against their well-camouflaged bodies on the coral reefs where they live.
The Hawaiian lionfish is native to the Pacific Ocean, where it lives in tropical waters from the shallows to about 400 feet down. The species is uncommon in the aquarium trade, although they could make an interesting reef fish for an experienced aquarist. Just watch out for those spines!
6. Bigeye-Fish
Family: Priacantidae
Scientific name: Pristigenys spp.
Size: 8 – 20 inches
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Selected species
Bigeye fish are from the Priacanthidae family. Most species are red in color, and they have enormous eyes to help them detect prey after dark. These fish come from tropical and subtropical waters where they inhabit rocky areas.
7. Rockfish
Family: Scorpaenidae
Scientific name: Varied
Size: 6 inches to 4 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Potentially
There are dozens of rockfish species that live around the coast of the US. These long-lived fish have huge eyes and very large mouths. Rockfish are common along rocky shores where they use their big eyes to detect their prey
Rockfish are very popular with fishermen, and some small species like the Puget Sound rockfish could even make a fascinating addition to a reef tank.
8. Bigeye Tuna
Family: Scombridae
Scientific name: Thunnus obesus
Size: up to 8 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
The bigeye tuna (video source) is a magnificent marine predator that occurs across all temperate and tropical seas, including the waters around the USA. They are one of the largest tuna species and can weigh up to 400 pounds. Their incredible speed helps them catch the squid and other fish species they need to survive.
The bigeye tuna usually spends the daylight hours a thousand feet or more below the water surface but moves up to hunt at night- that’s where their large eyes really come in handy.
9. Blue Shark
Family: Carcharhinidae
Scientific name: Prionace glauca
Size: Up to 12 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
The blue shark is a large, streamlined fish that inhabits cool surface waters of the open ocean, down to about a thousand feet. Blue Sharks really are blue, although their sides are silver and their bellies are white.
Blue sharks have very large eyes, and their large black pupils create a cute, cartoon-like appearance. These predators are not exactly cuddly, but they are not usually dangerous to humans.
10. Jack-Fish
Family: Carangidae
Scientific name: Caranx latus
Size: Up to 3 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? Suitable for large, public aquariums
The horse-eye jack is a large, predatory fish that hunts small fish and crustaceans in the oceans off the east and west coasts of North and South America. They are a popular sport fish, although they carry toxins that make them dangerous to eat. These powerful, deep-bodied fish are silver with a strongly forked, yellow tail. They are sight hunters who use their large eyes to spot their prey and attack with speed.
11. Thresher Shark
Family: Alopiidae
Scientific name: Alopias spp.
Size: up to 20 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
The bigeye thresher shark (video source) is one of the coolest and strangest animals in the ocean. These sharks are instantly recognizable by their long tail, which can be as long as their whole body!
Bigeye thresher sharks can use their tails to generate great speed, and they can jump high out of the water. Their tails are used to strike their prey. Despite their sharp teeth, bigeye thresher sharks actually have adorable faces with huge dark eyes.
12. Swordfish
Family: Xiphiidae
Scientific name: Xiphias gladius
Size: Up to 14 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
Swordfish are true monsters of the deep. These impressive fish have long, dagger-like bills that they use to kill their prey. Swordfish are one of the fastest fish on the planet, and they use their large eyes to locate prey in the dark depths where they hunt.
Swordfish occur in temperate, tropical, and subtropical waters in the Pacific, Indian, and Atlantic oceans. Unfortunately, swordfish are very difficult to see in the wild, although fishermen do catch them with hook and line and even with harpoons. This is one fish you don’t want to mess with!
13. Giant Squid
Family: Arciteuthidae
Scientific name: Architeuthis dux
Size: Up to 43 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
No article on big-eyed creatures would be complete without mentioning the giant squid. These animals have the largest eyes on the planet1, reaching up to 10 inches across!
The giant squid is a beast of legend, although it absolutely does exist. Most of their incredible length is made up of their tentacles and their body reaches a little over seven feet long.
Giant Squids have giant eyes to match, and this helps them find their prey in the dark. However, they are not at the top of the food chain down there and are often eaten by Sperm Whales.
14. Brazilian Four-Eye
Family: Anablepidae
Scientific name: Anableps anableps
Size: Up to 12 inches
Water type: Brackish
Aquarium friendly? Yes
The Brazilian Four Eye Fish actually has just two eyes, although their eyes have a pretty remarkable adaption. These strange-looking fish have two pupils in each eye, one below the other.
Amazingly, these large-eyed fish have the unique ability to swim at the water’s surface, with one pupil scanning the air above the water and the other looking below the water.
Although it is not suitable for beginners, these fish can be kept in large aquariums by experienced fish keepers.
15. Porbeagle Shark
Family: Lamnidae
Scientific name: Lamna nasus
Size: 8 feet
Water type: Saltwater
Aquarium friendly? No
The Porbeagle shark looks much like the well-known great white, and only it maxes out at about 8 feet and 300 pounds. These fast-swimming sharks are a popular game fish species and are even harvested commercially for their meat and oil.
Porbeagles, like the other sharks in this list, have huge dark eyes that help them zero in on their prey which consists of smaller fish and other marine animals.
However, not all shark species need big eyes. Some larger shark species, like whale sharks and basking sharks, have pretty small eyes because they feed on slow-moving plankton. These gigantic sharks don’t need the sharp teeth of smaller species, and they are completely harmless to people.
Why Do Some Species Have This Trait?
There are many reasons for having big eyes, but the most important reason is to improve vision. Keep reading to learn about four reasons why some fish have big eyes.
Night Vision
Big eyes really come in useful for seeing in dim light. Just like owls and other animals that hunt at night have big eyes, many fish that live in the dark need outsized eyes to see their predators and prey.
Nocturnal fish like squirrelfish and species that live in deep water like the adorable Genie’s dogfish use their big eyes to focus light and find food in low-light conditions.
Hunting
Even regular game fish like barracuda fish that hunt in daylight hours benefit from having big eyes.
These fish live life in the fast lane, where having sharp eyesight and great speed can make the difference between getting a meal or going hungry.
Selective Breeding
Some fish with big eyes are the result of breeding projects by fish keepers and farmers. Just like humans have bred dogs into all the amazing types we have today, fish breeders can develop interesting fishy features by selectively breeding for those traits.
Goldfish are a great example, and the strange but beautiful telescope goldfish have some of the biggest eyes of any freshwater fish, thanks to humans rather than nature.
Health Conditions
Sometimes pet fish develop a health condition known as exophthalmia. This common but alarming problem is often called popeye by fish keepers, and it results from trauma, infection, or poor water quality.
Popeye is a serious condition, and it can cause permanent damage or even the loss of the eye if left untreated. However, if an injury caused the problem, time might be all your fish needs to heal up.
If your fish has popeye, test your water quality to see if all your parameters are safe and healthy. Treatment with Epsom salts to reduce swelling or antibiotics to fight an underlying infection can be helpful.
Why Do Some Fish Have Small Eyes?
You might be wondering why all fish don’t have big eyes. Surely all species would benefit from having great vision, right?
Many bottom-dwelling fish like loaches and catfish have pretty small eyes because they rely on their sense of smell and touch to navigate the world around them. Big eyes don’t really help in very murky waters either, so these fish have evolved to rely on their other senses.
In some cases, fish don’t use their eyes at all. The blind cave tetra from Mexico lives in complete darkness, where eyes are useless.
FAQs
What are the animals with these eyes called?
Fish with big eyes do not have any specific scientific classification. This trait has evolved in many different bony fish and cartilaginous fish families from deep oceans to shallow waters around the world.
Which of these species are from the Gulf?
The gulf of Mexico is home to several species with big eyes, including swordfish, horse-eye jacks, and big-eye tuna to name just a few.
Which of these are from the Caribbean?
Tropical waters of the Caribbean are home to many impressive big-eyed gamefish, as well as tropical reef fish like squirrelfish.
Why do some have this trait?
Most fish that have big eyes are nocturnal predators or live in deep waters where it is always dark. Big eyes allow more light through to the optic nerve, allowing better vision.
Why is my fish’s eye getting big?
Popeye is a common but alarming condition that affects pet fish from time to time. There are various causes, ranging from physical injury to infection.
The eye of the affected fish bulges out because fluid builds up behind the eye, causing pressure. If just one eye is affected, your fish has probably suffered trauma from a collision or aggression from a tank mate. When both eyes swell, it could be a sign that water quality is low.
What is the name of a small species with this trait?
The dwarf pufferfish (AKA pea puffer) is a great example of a small fish with big eyes. These awesome freshwater fish have tiny bodies, growing to just an inch or so, and they make great pet fish.
Dwarf Puffers can be kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons, and they do best if kept alone or in a larger tank with other members of their own species.
Final Thoughts
Big-eyed fish species are found everywhere from the tropical oceans to your local fish store. With over 30, 000 fish species on the planet, this list is just a drop in the ocean, but hopefully, you’ve enjoyed this look at 15 amazing types!
What is your favorite fish species with big eyes? Let us know in the comments below!
After 25+ years keeping bettas, I can tell you that gill flaring is one of the most misunderstood behaviors in the hobby. New keepers often panic when they see it, assuming their fish is stressed or sick. But flaring is actually your betta’s primary communication tool. it can signal territory defense, a stress response, or even just a reaction to seeing its own reflection in the glass. I’ve covered this exact topic in a dedicated video, and in this guide I’ll walk you through the six main reasons bettas flare so you know exactly when to intervene and when to relax.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Gill flaring is one of the most misunderstood betta behaviors. After 25 years, I see two extremes: owners who panic every time their betta flares, and owners who hold a mirror to the tank daily as entertainment. Occasional flaring is normal and healthy. It exercises the muscles and is part of normal betta behavior. Constant flaring from a persistent trigger is chronic stress, and chronic stress shortens the fish’s life. Know the difference.
Key Takeaways
When agitated or enthusiastic, betta fish may flare their gills to display their hostility.
When it comes to aggression, males might be more aggressive than females.
When they are first exposed to a new area, they may snap at their owners.
When Betta fish flare, they enlarge their gills and fins to seem larger and more intimidating to potential competitors or rivals.
Why Do Betta Fish Flare Gills?
Quick Answer
Bettas flare their gill covers (opercula) as a threat display. It happens when they see another betta, their own reflection, or any fish they perceive as a rival. Short flaring episodes (under a minute, a few times a day) are normal. Sustained or constant flaring indicates a persistent stressor: a visible reflection, an aggressive tankmate, or a tank that is too small to provide enough territory. Identify and remove the trigger.
In the wild, some animals express their rage or violence in distinctive yet potent ways. They frequently engage in it to avoid intrusion or protect themselves from predators. (Video source).
When their control over their established areas is in danger, Betta Fish flare their fins.
This behavior is also possible when they need to defend their mating partners or when they catch a glimpse of themselves in the mirror.
Fortunately, this aggressive behavior is confined to brief flares and fin spreads. So, there is no need for concern.
But first, let’s examine their actions in greater depth so that you can comprehend them. Additionally, it will aid in preventing excessive flare-ups
1. Signaling Aggression
When they see another fish that they believe could invade their region, bettas are known to respond violently.
They may also be hostile to other fish simply because they don’t like the way their tank mate looks.
And Betta flares its gills to show its rage or fury. This is a basic trait that enables them to protect their area against intruders.
2. Showing Dominance
Comparatively speaking to their female counterparts, male Bettas are rather territorial. In their natural environment, male Betta fish may flare their gills and fins to display hostility if another fish wanders into their channel.
In order to protect its area from any potential threats, it does this.
Their gills flare, making them appear larger and more menacing. The adversary often caves and alters its strategy as a consequence. This behavior aids in preventing physical harm to other members of the species.
But problems might go worse if the space is tiny. Because of this, you should take special care not to house two male Bettas together in a tiny or constrained space when you first bring them home.
Give each fish ample room to establish its own territories, or keep only one male Betta in the entire tank.
Without a way out, the two male betta will end up fighting until one of them dies.
3. Protecting the nest
In order to safeguard their eggs and fry after the fish tank’s spawning season is over, Betta fish create bubble nests out of saliva and air.
It’s rather typical for certain fish animals to assault their rivals’ nests. Additionally, some fish species have distinctive strategies to frighten off visitors.
When it comes to asserting their supremacy, betta fish are already very aggressive and show territorial aggression. They will never put up with even the smallest suggestion of having their nests destroyed. They also flare their gills to defend their territories.
Bettas often don’t flare up when they see smaller animals like snails. But in the event of a threat, they may also scare them away by acting like Bettas.
So make sure you get a limited number of bettas when it’s time for them to spawn.
Author’s Note: Bettas release a chemical into the water as a warning sign for other bettas to stay away from them. This helps with avoiding serious outbreaks. But I still recommend providing your betta fish with separate spawning sites within the tank. You can make different hiding spots in their tank using plants.
4. Flaring At Reflection
Finding your fish flaring at nothing might stress you out or even make you laugh. But oddly enough, your Betta buddy finds it challenging to differentiate its own reflection from another fish.
Seeing their own reflection makes Betta males aggressive. For the most part, they mistake it for another fish in the same tank. And as an act of defense, they flare their gills and fins.
Finding Betta’s flaring fins is natural. But if it happens too often, Betta fish can end up getting distressed.
5. A New Environment
Any type of fish can become distressed by a change in their habitat. And Bettas’ situation is the same.
Fish have a difficult time adjusting to different environments after they grow accustomed to one type of habitat. They consequently exhibit hostility.
Some animals have a tendency to grow timid and stop feeding altogether until they feel more at ease.
Betta fish are acutely aware of any changes in their surroundings. Additionally, they could act aggressively since they’re new to the tank and aren’t comfortable with the surroundings.
A little time will help your pet acclimate. An accurate grasp of the environment might need a few days or perhaps a week.
6. Unfamiliarity With The Owner
Betta fish have different perspectives from humans. While humans can distinguish items with more precision, Bettas just use shapes and colors to detect the presence of their owners and other nearby objects.
When you move around the room or close to their tank to feed them or check on them, they experience vibrations as well. To your new Betta pet, you are only a powerful predator attempting to ingest them.
Bettas are able to distinguish colors visually, making it simpler for them to identify a male Betta.
However, they are unfamiliar with you because you are new to their neighborhood. In this situation, they will behave violently and protect themselves as is only normal.
It doesn’t imply that they hate their owners or that betta fish are aggressive by nature. They only use it as a means of projecting fear onto any potential environmental threat they perceive to exist.
How To Make Them Comfortable?
It’s simple and easy to make your Betta comfy. Only when they are startled by their surroundings do they get angry.
You won’t often see Bettas displaying their gills and fins at you after they are used to their owners and there is nothing nearby that can disrupt their serenity.
1. Don’t Make Too Much Noise
Reduced noise is one strategy for reducing their stress. Bettas are sensitive to strong vibrations, which might cause them to activate their defense mode.
By reducing the noise surrounding them, you can prevent continuous flaring.
Make sure you don’t provoke their hostility too frequently since it is really unhealthy for your pet’s immune system. They will be more susceptible to diseases due to a compromised immune system.
Additionally, avoid taking them out every time you clean the Betta tank to let them become acclimated to your presence.
Be cautious while moving the gravel vacuum around the fish if you’re using one. Additionally, while cleaning the water in the tank, use a cup or another item that you generally use to clean water gently.
I advise against often removing the Siamese fighting fish from the aquarium, particularly when they are young.
2. Give Them Time To Adjust
How would you feel or act if you were in a strange place, surrounded by unfamiliar people, in a setting you had never experienced?
Your response might not be the same as a Betta fish. However, even a person would find it difficult to handle the terrible scenario.
Betta flare as a reaction to the novel setting. The hostility should stop once the Betta fish has thoroughly surveyed the aquarium. How you act will also affect how quickly your fish adjusts to its new environment.
Giving them some time to acclimate is, therefore, preferable to giving up on your fish.
3. Cover The Back Of The Tank
In order to reduce the likelihood of potential aggression, block their reflection with a background.
Backgrounds will keep them from seeing their reflections all the time. Consider a background or a lit background that will either provide more intrigue for your fish or prevent them from seeing themselves.
4. Get A Spacious Tank With Plenty Of Hiding Spaces
Long-term success depends on you giving Betta fish lots of places to hide. When your pet is young, it has no idea where to hide from you or its bothersome tank mates.
Once Betta fish are comfortable in their new environment, they can spend as much time as they like hiding from you and their tank mates by using the hideouts.
To create perfect hiding places for your Betta fish, you may use various plants, pebbles, and other decorations.
They will now retreat into hiding rather than flaring excessively, which is advantageous for you, your Betta fish, and their tank companions.
Do Female Bettas Flare?
You would assume that only male Betta fish flare their gills as a natural reaction to danger given the males’ aggressive attitude. The fact is that women are not as aggressive as men. But they can also flare to express hostility or disgust.
Typically, females lash out at one another. Female fish may or may not act in a domineering or territorial manner, in contrast to males who usually do.
They are semi-aggressive, therefore their hostility doesn’t come over as strongly as a guy would.
It’s also quite uncommon for females to flare at their own mirror. They concentrate on exploring their surroundings as a means to receive the activity and excitement they need rather than engaging in combat with the seeming adversary.
By putting a mirror next to the tank, you can assess their level of hostility. It will make it easier for you to keep an eye on the female’s aggression’s frequency and level.
Additionally, consider giving female bettas a variety of places to hide so they may do so during times of adversity.
Additionally, female betta fish flare their fins to deter males when they notice them.
For female bettas, leading a stress-free life is just as important. The female Betta fish’s immune system is highly likely to get compromised if she flares excessively. In order to set up a large tank with lots of hiding places, I advise purchasing an equal number of males and female bettas.
Benefits Of Behavior
It’s not always awful or bad for the fish when flares are used. Even though flaring on occasion might be beneficial, flaring frequently is a symptom of discomfort. I’m going to highlight a few advantages of Betta flaring.
1. A way to make things interesting
In general, bettas are highly clever. Whether it’s eating food, interacting with their owners, or getting along with other fish in their tank, it’s simple for them to become bored with their routine.
A mirror can be held up to the fish or placed in their direction to prevent boredom. Watch to see whether the fish see their own reflection. Your fish will immediately puff up their gills and fins to defend their territory from their apparent opponent as soon as they notice it.
It’s sufficient to perform this task once every week for up to two minutes. By doing this, you’ll be able to mimic their usual behavior without putting them in any risk.
2. Helps with attracting potential mates
In their native habitat, male Bettas flare to entice the female betta fish. In captivity, they consistently follow the same pattern of attraction. Usually entertaining to see is the rivalry among the males to see who is larger and more intimidating.
3. Makes it easy to get rid of stress
Stress is a genuine problem for bettas. They will flare their gills and fins to let some of the tension out if they encounter anything upsetting nearby.
Bettas have a high level of excitement. To maintain their composure, they flare their fins and gills. A hormone called cortisol is released into their systems as a result of the unexpected excitation.
This stress hormone, if present in the body for an extended period of time and in excessive quantities, might harm the health of your fish.
Their gills and fins will naturally flare as a means of releasing it.
4. Stretches their muscles and fins
Do you know how Bettas maintain the health of their fins and muscles? To maintain the integrity of their organs, they flare their fins and gills.
You might consider it a beneficial form of exercise for the fish.
Utilizing mirrors for exercise is a terrific concept, much like using them to assist people pass time when they are bored.
Simply set a mirror in front of the tank and wait for them to catch a glimpse of themselves. Some bettas can even swim up to the mirror and attack the adversary from there. Just be careful that the exercise doesn’t go on for too long.
Why does betta fish flare too much?
As I have explained, your betta fish should never flare excessively. Their immune system may be compromised, which would make them much more vulnerable to illness.
While fish naturally flare, they usually only do so when something threatens them or when they’re having fun. However, there is another reason why fish flare.
Incompatibility with tank mates
One of the main causes of your fish’s frequent flare-ups may be a poor selection of tank mates.
It is common for male bettas to fight one another. However, a single male in a group of six female fish won’t cause any trouble for other fish species.
In a Betta aquarium, species including common guppies, Platies, swordtails, and black Mollies thrive.
FAQs
Why is my Betta fish flaring its gills?
The nature of Betta includes flare-ups. Betta fish flare their gills and fins to display anger that prevents other fish from invading their territory.
Due of their tendency to be more aggressive than females, males exhibit this behavior more frequently.
What is coming out of Bettas gills?
A parasite called a gill fluke can infect the gills of your pet. These parasites, which resemble skin flukes but only affect the Betta’s gills, are parasites.
Your fish may be an easy target for the parasites to assault if it has a compromised immune system or dwells in unfavorable water conditions.
Is Betta flaring healthy?
Only if it is kept under control can flaring benefit your Betta fish. In actuality, this is a fantastic technique to release the stress hormone cortisol. To keep things from being too monotonous, you may also stimulate flare in your pet.
However, your Betta may become stressed if you flare excessively. Make sure stresses don’t affect your pet.
Closing Thoughts
As a new aquarist or someone who isn’t familiar with Bettas, finding them flaring at you is certainly distressing.
Bettas tend to flare at other fish and their own reflection when they feel threatened. But wait for a second! Why would they flare at you when you aren’t a fish or someone who can endanger their territory?
The answer is simple. They aren’t familiar with you or the new environment. As a result, they show aggression by puffing up their gills and fins to protect themselves.
I will walk you through some of the most common reasons for Betta flaring and how to make them comfortable.
Blood parrot cichlids are a man made hybrid that divides the hobby. Love them or hate them, they are here to stay. What most people get wrong is underestimating their size and their sensitivity to water quality. A blood parrot in a dirty tank loses color, develops black spots, and hides constantly. I have kept these for years and the fish you see hiding in a pet store corner is not the same fish you get in a clean, stable setup. But feeding is where most people fail. Their fused mouths cannot bite or tear food. The cichlid that needs you to rethink how feeding works.
The cichlid that needs you to rethink how feeding works.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Blood Parrot Cichlid
Most care sheets list the minimum tank size for Blood Parrot Cichlid and call it a day. But a minimum is just that. In my experience, giving them more room changes their behavior completely. You see more natural movement, less stress, and fewer aggression issues. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Blood Parrot Cichlid are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Blood Parrot Cichlid
Blood parrots are hardy, personable fish. But their hybrid origins come with real limitations that you need to accept before buying one.
Their mouths are deformed by design. Blood parrots cannot close their mouths fully. This is a feature of the hybrid, not a defect you can fix. It means they struggle to eat certain foods, cannot defend themselves against aggressive tank mates, and are vulnerable to mouth injuries. Feed pellets sized for their mouth and avoid aggressive species.
They are messy eaters. Because of their mouth structure, blood parrots drop a lot of food while eating. This means more uneaten food on the bottom, higher waste levels, and a greater need for filtration and gravel vacuuming.
Dyed blood parrots are an industry shame. If you see purple, blue, or green blood parrots, they have been dyed. This process is stressful, often involves injections, and the color fades over time. Never buy dyed fish. You are funding animal cruelty.
They are surprisingly shy. Despite their chunky appearance, blood parrots are nervous fish. They need caves and hiding spots to feel secure. A blood parrot without cover will spend its life stressed and pale.
Biggest Mistake New Blood Parrot Cichlid Owners Make
Keeping them with aggressive cichlids. Blood parrots cannot defend themselves properly due to their deformed mouths. Putting them with jack dempseys, convicts, or aggressive mbuna is setting them up to get beaten up. Choose peaceful tank mates only.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
If you want a blood parrot, buy a natural red or orange specimen from a reputable source. Never buy dyed fish. Give them caves, feed them quality pellets, and keep them with peaceful tank mates. They will reward you with 10+ years of genuine personality.
Blood parrot cichlids are hybrid fish with a deformed beak that limits their ability to compete for food. They are peaceful but need target feeding, good filtration, and 55+ gallon tanks. More sensitive than their hardy reputation suggests.
Key Takeaways
The blood-red parrot cichlid is a hybrid fish that was developed through cross-breeding practices in 1986.
These fish have some difficulties feeding, but they are otherwise very easy to care for.
Blood parrot cichlids make great community fish but should not be kept with large aggressive species or with smaller fish that they might swallow.
Blood parrot cichlids should not be confused with saltwater parrotfish.
Fish Species Overview
Scientific Name
Hybrid
Common Names
blood parrot cichlid, blood red parrot cichlid, freshwater parrot fish
Family
Cichlidae
Origin
Captivity
Diet
Omnivore
Care Level
Easy
Activity
Moderate
Lifespan
10 – 15 years
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Tank Level
All levels
Minimum Tank Size
55 gallons for a single fish, increase by twenty gallons for each individual
Temperature Range
72 – 82°F
Water Hardness
6-18 dGH
pH Range
6.5 – 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow
Low
Water Type
Freshwater
Breeding
Egg-layers
Difficulty to Breed
Difficult
Compatibility
Compatible with larger community fish
OK, for Planted Tanks?
With Caution
Classification
Order
Cichliformes
Family
Cichlidae
Subfamily
Cichlinae
Genus
Hybrid origin
Species
Hybrid (Amphilophus citrinellus x Paraneetroplus synspilus)
What Is Are They?
The blood-red parrot cichlid is a medium to large tropical freshwater fish from the Cichlidae family. These strange, ball-shaped fish are instantly recognizable with their huge eyes and very small mouth. Their mouth is unusual in that it looks somewhat like a parrot’s beak, but it is actually a deformation.
These cichlids are pretty controversial because they are man-made fish and we don’t know exactly which parent species were used to breed the blood parrot cichlid. They are probably a hybrid of two or more Central American Cichlids. The prime suspects are the well-known Midas Cichlid and the Redhead cichlid.
Regardless of their controversial ancestry, these fish make excellent pets. Sure, they will look strange, but in a really cool way! These fish have bright colors and the most expressive eyes.
Blood parrot cichlids are also very interactive fish. They often swim up to meet you, especially if you’re the person who provides their dinner!
Origin And Habitat
The blood parrot cichlid is a hybrid fish, which means it was bred from two or more different species. They were first developed in Asia in the 1980s, and today they are popular in the aquarium trade all over the world.
Some hybrids can occur in nature, but blood parrots are only found in captivity. You could say that their natural habitat is the aquarium! In fact, it’s pretty unlikely that these unusual fish would be able to survive in the wild at all.
Appearance
Blood parrot cichlids are instantly recognizable by a combination of their bright orange colors, round body, humped shoulders, huge eyes, and small parrot-like mouths that can’t fully close.
They are clearly recognizable as cichlids, although their strange features make them look more like cartoon characters than wild fish!
Orange is the most dominant color, but there are other breeds too. Their large fins are the same color as their body, although they is darker, lighter, or even translucent.
The blood parrot’s eyes are one of its most unique features. Their pupil is large and often strangely shaped. The iris around their pupil contrasts strongly with blue or gold.
These features have become less extreme since they were first bred, but the parrot cichlid is still a very distinctive freshwater fish.
Blood parrot cichlids change a little as they grow older. Young fish often have dark markings toward the tail and less color than adults.
Common Varieties (Types)
Blood parrot cichlids come in a few different colors and breeds. Natural blood parrot cichlids vary from white to yellow and orange.
You will also come across the king kong blood parrot. This is a larger breed that has a normal mouth.
Unfortunately, there are some blood parrot breeding practices that should not be supported. If you ever come across a heart-shaped blood parrot cichlid, take a closer look. These fish have no tails because they have been cut off (video below).
Jellybean parrots are fish that have been dyed, and they are available in just about any color. Some breeders also tattoo their fish to enhance their colors or write messages on them. Rather get yourself a regular blood parrot. These fish have all the color, charm, and cuteness that you could ever need!
Lifespan
Blood parrots can make long-lived pets if properly cared for. This hybrid fish species has a typical lifespan of five to fifteen years.
Of course, there are many factors that decide the actual life span of any fish, including genetics, diet, water quality, and more. Take note of the care tips in this article to keep your pet healthy and live longer.
Average Size
Blood parrot cichlids are often sold at just two or three inches, which can catch beginner fishkeepers off guard. They will grow a lot larger as they mature and reach 6 or 7 inches in length.
Fortunately, these hybrid fish are relatively slow growers, which gives you plenty of time to upgrade their aquarium if necessary. Regular blood parrots max out around 8 inches, but there are some larger breeds too. The rarer king kong blood parrots can reach an impressive 12 inches.
Blood Parrot Cichlid Care
Blood parrot cichlids are easy to care for once you understand their feeding needs. Read on to learn how to create the perfect home for these adorable hybrid fish.
Aquarium Setup
The blood-red parrot cichlid is pretty undemanding when it comes to its care and aquarium setup. These fish will thrive in just about any tank that provides enough space.
If you’re setting up a new aquarium for blood parrot cichlids, you’re going to need some basic hardware like a heater, filter, and lighting. You’ll also need to cycle your tank before introducing your first fish.
Tank Size
The Blood red parrot cichlid is a big fish, so it needs a big fish tank. An 8-inch specimen is much bigger than it sounds when you factor in how tall and wide these ball-shaped hybrids can get!
They are fairly slow-growing fish, but it’s best to start out with a big enough tank from the beginning. You could keep a young specimen in a 29-gallon aquarium, but 55 is a much better bet. Add 20-30 gallons for each additional parrot cichlid you want to house.
Blood parrot cichlids are not the fastest fish in the world, but they sure can jump. Make sure your aquarium has a secure-fitting hood to avoid any mishaps.
Water Parameters
The blood parrot cichlid is pretty adaptable when it comes to water parameters. They are tropical fish, so they will need warm, stable water temperatures. Their preferred temperatures seem to be around 80°F, although they is kept down to about 75 °F.
Blood parrots are adaptable to soft or hard water, and they do great in pH levels between 6.5 and 7.5.
Ammonia and nitrite levels should always read zero when you test your water. However, these fish are not overly sensitive to nitrates if you perform regular water changes.
Filtration and Aeration
Good quality filtration is essential for keeping parrot cichlids healthy in the long run. Parrot cichlids are not the strongest swimmers, so they won’t appreciate a powerful current in their tank.
However, their inefficient eating habits mean a lot of uneaten food will accumulate in the tank. Therefore, high-volume but low-flow filtration is ideal. A canister filter with plenty of filtration media is always a good bet.
Additional aeration is helpful but not essential. You can run an airstone to increase oxygen levels in the water or aim your filters outflow toward the surface of the water. Breaking the water surface will allow more oxygen to mix into the water.
Lighting
Blood parrot cichlids do not have any particular lighting needs, but they should have access to a natural day/night cycle. The easiest way to do this is to use a timer set to 6 to 10 hours per day.
Of course, you don’t want your tank to receive any direct natural sunlight, as this can cause high temperatures and serious algae problems.
Aquatic Plants
Live plants can help to maintain great water quality for your blood parrot cichlids while making their tank more natural and attractive. Unfortunately, blood parrot cichlids are not the ideal fish for planted tanks, but that doesn’t mean it can’t be done. However, a lot will depend on your individual fish.
Some blood parrots will tear up plants, while others won’t touch them. Fortunately, most blood parrots have weak mouths, so they can’t do too much damage.
The biggest problem is that these fish may dig up the regular stem and rosette-type plants. Fortunately, you can still grow some amazing plants that don’t root themselves in the substrate.
Epiphytes like Java ferns and anubias are safe bets if secured to some sturdy hardscape. Floating plants like red root floater, Salvinia, and hornwort are also great options.
Decorations
Blood parrots often dig, and this is a problem for your decorations too. Carefully arranging rock piles and driftwood is pretty dangerous if your fish tip them over into the glass or onto themselves.
Blood parrot cichlids is shy, especially while they are still adjusting to a new fish tank. Caves and tunnels between your hardscape make great hiding places, and broken clay pots work just as well.
Avoid using tall, heavy ornaments, especially near the walls of your tank. However, driftwood, flatter rocks, and aquarium-safe ornaments are great choices.
Substrate
Sand is the ideal substrate for blood parrot cichlids because it is safe for them to dig. However, rounded gravel is also a great choice.
Avoid sand or gravel with sharp edges, and don’t bother with aquarium soils for rooted plants because these fish will just dig up your aquascape.
Tank Maintenance
Blood parrot cichlids are not particularly sensitive to nitrates, but like all fish, they deserve the best water quality that you can provide.
Testing
Purchase a water test kit before you add your parrotfish. You will need it during the aquarium cycling process. You’ll also need to test your water regularly once your tank is ready and you have added your fish.
Testing is the best way to monitor the build-up of nitrates in your aquarium, and this information will help you design a tank maintenance schedule that is perfect for your setup.
Vacuuming
These messy fish leave a fair amount of food to sink to the bottom, so remove whatever doesn’t get eaten. Vacuuming your gravel while performing a water change is the best way to remove poop and waste particles trapped between your substrate.
Partial water changes are essential for maintaining your blood parrot cichlid aquarium. Depending on the size and stocking of your tank, you will need to do this every one or two weeks.
Remember to dechlorinate new water before adding it to your aquarium. Some of the chemicals found in tap water is harmful to your aquarium bacteria, plants, and animals.
Community Tank Mates
One of the great things about blood parrots is that they are pretty safe with other fish. Sure, they is pretty aggressive, especially when spawning, but they just don’t have the tools to do a whole lot of damage.
However, some modern blood parrots are bred with larger mouths, and these fish will not be safe with smaller tank mates.
One of the best tank mate species for blood parrot cichlids is other blood parrot cichlids. That’s right, and these funny fish can get along great with their own kind. However, they is kept with many other cichlids too.
The following cichlid species can make good tank mates for blood-red parrots:
In fact, most peaceful fish species that enjoy the same water parameters will make good blood parrot tank mates. However, you should avoid very small fish because your blood parrot will try to swallow them!
Here are some potential tank mates that you can try:
Avoid aggressive fish that can hurt your blood parrots. Any large, carnivorous species that could swallow your parrotfish whole is a risky choice!
Small fish like rasboras, badis, and endler’s livebearers can make a nice snack for your blood parrot cichlids. Sure, these hybrids aren’t exactly built for the kill, but they is persistent!
Fish species that have special care requirements like cool water or fast currents should be avoided. Unfortunately, that rules out fancy goldfish as tank mates.
Breeding
Male Blood parrot cichlids are sterile, so these hybrid fish are very difficult to breed in the home aquarium. They do form pairs, and they may even lay eggs, but they are infertile and rarely hatch.
Pairs will be very aggressive towards other fish at this time, and they will dig up the substrate to create a spawning area. However, the adults end up eating the eggs when they begin to develop fungi.
Female blood parrot cichlids are often fertile, and they can actually breed with other cichlid species like red devils. Sexing blood parrot cichlids is tricky, although males have longer and more pointed fins.
Food And Diet
Feeding is probably the trickiest part of keeping blood parrot cichlids. Firstly, their small mouths don’t open and shut like other fish, so they struggle to get food into their mouths. Secondly, they are easily outcompeted by faster-moving fish in their tank.
Avoid overfeeding your tank to overcome these issues, as this will only impact your water quality. One, two, or three meals per day is enough; just keep an eye on your fish to make sure they are getting a good meal.
Keep reading to learn about the best foods to feed blood parrots.
Daily Diet
There are some excellent pellets formulated specifically for the blood parrot, but you can provide any high-quality, soft pellet that is small enough for them to swallow.
Sinking foods are better since they lessen the chance of swim bladder problems, but many fishkeepers use floating foods without any issues.
Supplements
Supplements are foods that you can provide once a week or so to boost your fish’s condition. Frozen foods like blood worms and brine shrimp are great supplements, but your blood parrots will struggle to feed on them.
Supplementing your parrot cichlid diet with shelled peas once per week is beneficial too. Simply boil them briefly and remove the outer shell.
Common Health Problems
Blood parrot cichlids are very hardy and not prone to disease if kept in good conditions.
In the early days, blood-red parrot cichlids were quite heavily deformed and prone to various illnesses. These days the fish are more robust. Nevertheless, this hybrid species is susceptible to swim bladder problems.
Swim Bladder Disease
Swim bladder disease is a common condition in aquarium fish that causes swimming difficulty. Affected fish will sink to the bottom of the tank or float at the surface, and some even swim upside down.
Mild cases is solved by feeding shelled peas, but Epsom salt baths is necessary for more serious situations.
Other Health Issues
Blood parrot cichlids are susceptible to most of the common aquarium fish illnesses. These show up after introducing diseased fish to the tank or when your fish are under stress from poor water quality or bullying from other fish.
Keep an eye out for the following symptoms:
White spots on your fish’s body. This is a common symptom of a parasitic infection called ich.
Flashing. Fish scratch their itches by rubbing against the substrate or decorations in their tank. This behavior can be a sign of infection or poor water quality.
Torn fins and sores on the body. Torn fins can be a sign of fin nipping and bullying by other fish, but it can also be a symptom of other conditions like bacterial infections and a compromised immune system.
Rapid Breathing. A variety of stressors can cause rapid breathing. Testing your water quality for issues is the first step when identifying health problems in your fish, and increasing oxygen levels with an airstone can be helpful.
FAQs
What fish can live with them?
Blood parrots are pretty peaceful fish and they get along with many other species. You can keep them with similar fish like severums or even other blood parrots. It’s best to avoid much larger or smaller fish and stick with species that enjoy the same water parameters.
Are they peaceful?
Blood Parrots are relatively peaceful as far as cichlids go, but they is aggressive when attempting to spawn. Fortunately, they are pretty harmless bullies due to their weak mouths.
Are these fish smart?
The blood parrot is known as a smart and interactive pet fish. They learn to recognize their owner’s face and will often swim up to the glass to greet you.
Can parrot fish live with other fish?
Blood parrots can be great community fish if kept with the right tank mates. However, they should only be kept with other freshwater fish that enjoy the same kind of water conditions. Tiny tetras and other nano fish are not safe.
What do these type of freshwater fish eat?
Blood parrots are omnivorous fish that will thrive on a diet of small sinking or floating pellets. They will appreciate frozen foods like bloodworms and vegetables like shelled peas as a weekly snack.
How long do they live?
Freshwater parrot cichlids can live for a long time if well cared for. Some specimens survive as long as 15 years.
How many should you keep together?
You can keep one blood parrot cichlid, or three or more. Two blood parrot cichlids might fight a lot unless you have plenty of space and structure in your aquarium. A big group of these hybrid fish works great, just make sure you provide 20 gallons or so for each additional fish you add.
How big of a tank do they need?
A single adult blood parrot cichlid should be kept in at least 55 gallons. Young fish can be housed in a 29-gallon tank.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Blood Parrot Cichlid
Blood parrots are the dogs of the fish world. That is not an exaggeration. A blood parrot will learn your face, swim to the front of the tank when you walk into the room, and beg for food with the same shameless enthusiasm every single time. They recognize the difference between the person who feeds them and a stranger. After a few months, you stop thinking of them as fish.
The color changes tell you everything about their mood and health. A happy, comfortable blood parrot glows deep orange to red. A stressed one fades to pale peach and develops dark patches. You will learn to read your fish like a mood ring, and that feedback loop makes you a better fishkeeper whether you realize it or not.
Watching them eat is equal parts endearing and frustrating. Their deformed mouths mean food falls out constantly. They chase pellets around the tank, grab one, drop half of it, and go back for more. You need to accept that some food waste is inevitable and plan your filtration accordingly. It is part of the deal with this fish.
Hard Rule: Blood parrots cannot eat standard-sized pellets. Their deformed beaks require mini pellets or crushed food – otherwise they chase food around, swallow nothing, and slowly starve while appearing to eat.
Is the Blood Parrot Cichlid Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You want a personality-rich cichlid with unusual looks and real interactivity
You are comfortable with hybrid fish and the ethical debate around them
You have a 55+ gallon (208 L) tank and can manage moderate cichlid aggression
You enjoy cichlids but want something less destructive than most Central Americans
Avoid If:
You have strong objections to hybrid fish – blood parrots are a man-made cross, not a natural species
You want to breed cichlids – male blood parrots are sterile
You keep small tank mates under 4 inches (10 cm) that may be harassed
You want standard feeding routines – their deformed mouths require specially sized food every meal
Final Thoughts
A blood parrot in clean water is a completely different fish than one in a neglected tank.
Parrot cichlids are one of the most adorable freshwater fish in the hobby. They will not be for everyone, and it’s understandable that many aquarists prefer to steer clear of hybrids. Keep these fish if you want a pet with great color and personality, but be prepared to provide for its special feeding needs.
Do you keep blood parrot cichlids? Share your experiences in the comments below!
No fish will replace your gravel vac. I want to set that expectation right upfront. But after 25+ years building community tanks, I’ve come to genuinely rely on a good clean-up crew to handle the in-between work: grazing algae off the glass, picking up leftover food before it rots, and sifting through substrate. The right mix of bottom dwellers and algae eaters makes a real difference in water quality and tank aesthetics. Here’s what I actually use and recommend.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Cleanup crew fish are one of the most misunderstood concepts in the hobby. People buy a pleco or a loach expecting it to clean the tank, then wonder why the tank still gets dirty. After 25 years, here’s the honest answer: no fish cleans a tank. They reduce algae, eat leftover food, and disturb the substrate, but they don’t replace good filtration or regular water changes. What they do is make maintenance less frequent and the tank look better between sessions. Choose your cleanup crew based on the type of problem you have, not just ‘something that eats algae.’
Key Takeaways
Cleaner fish are fascinating and beautiful pets in their own right.
Each species requires care, so research their needs before adding them to your tank.
Provide bottom feeders with high-quality sinking food and supplement algae-eating fish with algae wafers when their natural food source runs low.
You will still need to perform regular aquarium maintenance and use an aquarium filter to keep your tank clean.
What Are Clean-Up Crew Fish?
You might have heard the phrase ‘clean up crew’ and wondered what it refers to. Well, your clean-up crew (CUC) are the animals that help to keep your aquarium clean!
These fish and invertebrates keep your tank looking beautiful for longer, and they can even help to keep your other pets healthy.
They do this by eating algae and uneaten food in your aquarium before it spoils. Some species even clean your substrate (sand/gravel) by searching for food morsels between the grains and the stems of plants.
Clean-up-crew animals are not a replacement for good old-fashioned tank maintenance, but they can reduce the amount of cleaning that you need to do. As a bonus, these fish and inverts are also fascinating and beautiful creatures, so they add a ton of interest to any tank!
Are you ready to learn about 10 amazing clean-up crew animals for freshwater aquariums? Let’s get started!
Mark’s Pick
For planted tanks, otocinclus are my first recommendation every time. They stay small (under 2 inches), work in groups of 5 or more, target green algae on plant leaves without harming the plants, and are peaceful enough for any community setup. The catch: they need a mature, stable tank with consistent water quality. Don’t add them to a new setup. For bigger tanks that need substrate work, a group of corydoras alongside a bristlenose pleco covers most of what you’d need.
Top 10 Fish That Clean Tanks
So now you know what clean-up crew animals do and how they can benefit your fish tank, but how do you choose the right species?
Careful research is important before choosing any aquarium inhabitant. Aquarists should ensure that the new fish, animal, or plant will be happy in their tank size and water parameters and get along with their existing tank mates.
We have a video below posted from our YouTube Channel for you visual learners. We go over more details in our blog post. If you enjoy our content, be sure to give us a sub on YouTube. We post new videos every week!
Consider the following important stats before making your choice:
Benefits: Eats leftover food and cleans the substrate
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Temperature: 74 – 80 °F
Corydoras are classic clean-up crew fish that deserve a place in almost any freshwater aquarium. These cute little catfish are wonderful community fish that get along with a huge variety of peaceful tank mates.
Cory cats really shine when it comes to keeping your substrate clean. These small schooling fish scour the bottom for leftover fish food and actively search through the gravel and between plant stems to look for scraps.
2. Loach
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Scientific name: Pangio, Misgurnus, etc.
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to moderate
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 2 -12 inches
Benefits: Eats leftover food, cleans substrate, and controls pest snail populations
Minimum Tank Size: Species dependent
Temperature: Species dependent
Loach fish are great bottom-dwellers that will keep your tank clear of uneaten fish food. These peaceful fish come in a wide range of shapes, colors, and sizes.
Loaches are also great for controlling pest snails. These fish can be a little shy during the day, but their crazy antics are very entertaining.
Small species like the kuhli loach are great for tanks in the 20-gallon range, while larger loaches like the weather loach are suitable for larger tanks of 50 gallons or more.
Benefits: Algae removal from hardscape and glass, and substrate cleaning
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperature: 72 – 82 °F
Bristlenose plecos are excellent algae-eating fish for freshwater tanks. These strange-looking catfish are true bottom dwellers that use their sucker mouths to graze on algae and diatoms (brown algae) on many surfaces, including your aquarium decorations and glass.
These strange-looking fish are generally very peaceful, although they can be territorial with their own species. Keep a single bristlenose pleco in your tank with plenty of driftwood and hiding places to enjoy all the benefits this fish has to offer.
4. Flagfish
Scientific name: Jordanella floridae
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy
Origin: Florida, USA
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Benefits: Controlling algae growth
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperature: 66 – 72 °F
The American Flagfish is an underrated champion when it comes to eating algae. These small freshwater fish feed on many types of algae, including hair algae, brown algae, and green algae. They even have a reputation for eating tough types like black beard algae.
5. Geophagus & Satanperca Cichlids
Scientific name: Geophagus spp., Satanperca spp. etc.
Temperament: Peaceful to aggressive
Care Level: Easy to Advanced
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 4 – 12 inches
Benefits: Substrate cleaning
Minimum Tank Size: 50 -100 gallons (depending on species)
Temperature: Species dependent
Geophagus and Satanperca are two popular genera of South American cichlids1. These fantastic substrate cleaners are commonly known as eartheaters and they come in a huge range of sizes and colors.
Earth-eaters feed by sifting through the substrate. They do this by taking mouthfuls of sand, filtering out the food particles, and expelling the rest back out through their gills.
There are various species, but most eartheaters are larger fish that need a fairly large tank to thrive. Their care and temperament differ by species, so make sure to research carefully before buying a school of these fascinating fish.
6. Rainbow Shark
Scientific name: Epalzeorhynchos frenatus
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Care Level: Moderate
Origin: Southeast Asia
Adult Size: 6 inches
Benefits: Controlling algae and eating leftover fish food
Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
Temperature: 70 – 79°F
Rainbow sharks are great for cleaning up uneaten fish food, but they are also great algae eaters for a larger freshwater aquarium.
These streamlined bottomfeeders are semi-aggressive fish, so keep them with similar-sized tropical fish species and make sure they are the only shark in your fish tank.
Rainbow sharks are available in the wild type, with a dark body and red fins, or the albino version with a red eye and white body. GloFish rainbow sharks are also available in dazzling shades like Cosmic Blue and Sunburst Orange for fish keepers who want even more color.
7. Molly
Scientific name: Poecilia latipinna/ P. sphenops
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Origin: South & North America
Adult Size: 3 inches
Benefits: Great algae-eating fish
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperature: 68 – 82°F
Molly fish are one of the most popular species in the aquarium hobby. These easy fish are excellent algae eaters for a freshwater aquarium. They will eat algae from any surface, including your aquarium ornaments and the leaves of live plants.
Molly fish are livebearers, so they are super easy to breed in the home aquarium. They also come in many colors, patterns, and fin shapes, so there is a variety to suit almost any tank!
8. Slim Bodied Goldfish
Scientific name: Carassius auratus
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Origin: China
Adult Size: 6 – 8 inches
Benefits: Helpful algae eater for lightly stocked cool-water aquariums
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Temperature: 65 – 75 °F
Did you know that goldfish can make great algae-eating fish? Slim-bodied types like commons and comet goldfish can help to keep your freshwater tank clean. However, goldfish can be messy themselves if overstocked in a small tank.
Goldfish are not suitable for a tropical tank because they are at home in cool water temperatures. Your goldfish tank should be at least 30 gallons, and beware; these fish will eat plants.
When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!
Benefits: These shrimp are excellent algae eaters for a planted tank
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperature: 60 – 80 °F
The Amano shrimp is one of the best algae eaters for a nano freshwater aquarium. These awesome crustaceans feed on a variety of algae types, and they will keep your aquarium plants clean and healthy.
Amano shrimp are very peaceful towards other tank inhabitants, but they are vulnerable to predatory fish species and other aggressive tank mates.
Amano Shrimp are not the only algae-eating shrimp. Dwarf shrimp species like cherry shrimp and glass shrimp will also eat food scraps and help to control algae.
Bamboo shrimp are another fascinating invertebrate species. These guys are filter feeders, which means they eat tiny food particles that are suspended in the water column.
10. Aquarium Snails
Scientific name: Various
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Origin: Worldwide
Adult Size: 0.5 – 2 inches
Benefits: Snails are excellent algae eaters and they eat fish waste and leftover fish food
Minimum Tank Size: gallons
Temperature: 68 – 82°F
Snails are one of the best clean-up crew animals for freshwater aquariums. Snails eat algae, uneaten food, and fish waste, all the things that we don’t want to see in our tanks! However, choosing the right species for your tank is important.
Snails get a bit of a bad rap because some species have a tendency to multiply. These invertebrates tend to breed out of control in aquariums that are overfed and undermaintained. Nevertheless, some species are much easier to manage than others.
Choose rabbit snails, mystery snails, and nerite snails if you would prefer to keep the population low. Ramshorn snails, Malaysian trumpet snails, and pond snails should be added with caution.
Bonus Species
Looking for even more algae eaters? Check out these great algae-eating fish and aquarium inhabitants:
Siamese algae eater – Crossocheilus siamensis
Siamese algae eaters are peaceful fish that grow to about 6 inches. They are excellent algae eaters for aquariums of 30 gallons or larger.
Chinese algae eater – Gyrinocheilos aymonieri
Chinese algae eaters are similar to the Siamese algae eater but grow much larger. These fish are fantastic for controlling algae, but they have a reputation for eating the slime coat off their tank mates when they get older.
Otos are the perfect algae eaters for a nano freshwater tank. These tiny catfish will keep your plants and glass sparkling clean without harming your shrimp or other fish.
Twig catfish – Farlowella acus
Twig catfish are another excellent algae eater that won’t bother other fish in your community tank. These unusual creatures look just like twigs and reach about 6 inches in length.
Caring For Them
Clean-up fish and other helpful animals like algae-eating shrimp and snails can do an amazing job of cleaning up your aquarium, but they need care just like any other pet. That means you need to observe their preferred temperature range, water parameters, and minimum tank size.
Algae eaters can make your tank look brand new in just a few days, but it’s what you can’t see that can become really dangerous. Test your water regularly to monitor the water quality in your aquarium.
You will need a heater for most species, and good-quality filtration is vital. Remember to provide your pets with a natural day/night cycle by running your aquarium lighting on a timer.
Feeding Your Crew
Your clean-up fish can be split into two categories. Algae eaters and bottom feeders. Many species fit into both groups, but some species have specialized diets and require specific supplements.
Typical bottom feeders like corydoras catfish and loaches will require sinking fish foods, while specialized algae eaters like Otocinclus catfish will need an extra food source if they manage to eat all the algae in your tank.
Supplement your cleaner fish and animals with the following foods:
Frozen food like brine shrimp
Algae wafers
bottom feeder pellets
Blanched vegetables like zucchini
Keeping Your Aquarium Tidy – Other Factors to Consider
Algae-eating fish and invertebrate species can do a wonderful job of cleaning your fish tank, but they are not a replacement for aquarium maintenance. Remember, even cleaning up fish produce waste.
Several factors contribute to algae growth and mess in your aquarium, and these factors tend to work hand in hand.
Clean-up fish may help your tank’s ecosystem function more efficiently, but they cannot maintain good water quality in the long run. If you are considering adding clean-up animals, you might already have a water quality issue.
So how do you improve water quality?
Filtration
The first step is to run good filtration. Your filter has some unexpected benefits for your aquarium. Firstly, filtration removes a lot of the physical waste particles from your water, leaving it visibly cleaner.
More importantly, your filter is home to vast numbers of beneficial bacteria. These are the ‘good guys’ that turn dangerous nitrogen compounds like ammonia into relatively safe nitrates.
However, your filter cannot capture all the solid particles because many of them drop to the bottom and collect. Your beneficial bacteria cannot remove nitrates either, so regular aquarium maintenance is vital.
Proper Aquarium Maintenance
The most important aquarium maintenance task is the partial water change. This involves physically removing a percentage of your aquarium water and replacing it with new dechlorinated water. Typically you’ll need to replace 25-50% of your aquarium water every 1 to 3 weeks.
You can design your maintenance schedule based on the results of water testing, and the frequency and volume of your water changes are determined largely by the next few factors listed below.
Aquarium Stocking Levels
The more fish you have, the more you need to feed them, and the more waste they will produce. Unfortunately, you cannot fix an overstocked fish tank by adding more fish!
So how many fish can you keep? Well, there is no simple answer. The old guideline of 1 inch of fish for every gallon in your tank is helpful, but this rule has serious flaws.
Your tank’s maximum stocking level depends on the factors discussed below, but it’s always wise to slightly understock your aquarium.
Low-maintenance vs. Messy
Some fish are messier than others. For example, larger fish like Oscars and other cichlids can be messy feeders that leave a lot of uneaten food to sink and decay in your tank.
These fish can be hard on your clean-up crew and often require plenty of space, strong filtration, and frequent maintenance.
Low-maintenance fish like mollies are a great choice because they do a good job at hunting down food scraps. They will even keep their own tank free of most algae.
Small vs. Large
Larger fish eat larger meals and produce more waste, so think carefully before buying a monster fish. However, A small aquarium does not necessarily stay cleaner than a large one. Small tanks can be very unstable and tend to require more frequent maintenance.
A large aquarium with small fish is a great option if you wish to minimize aquarium maintenance. Adding live plants will make a huge difference too.
Read on to learn about the benefits of keeping a planted tank.
Live Plants Keep Algae at Bay
Live aquarium plants are a beautiful addition to any aquarium. They provide a natural environment for your fish, they’re fun to grow, and they look great. However, plants do even more than that!
Live plants compete with algae, so they are one of the best options for keeping your tank clean. Plants also use nitrates and phosphates as a fertilizer, turning harmful compounds into beautiful new growth.
FAQs
Which ones cleans the aquarium?
There are many excellent cleaner fish for freshwater tanks. Nerite snails and otocinclus catfish are some of the best algae eaters, but they won’t do much to keep the bottom of your tank clean. Other freshwater snails like Malaysian trumpet snails and bottom-dwelling fish like bristlenose plecos can do a great job of cleaning up waste at the substrate level.
What animal keeps an aquarium clean?
There are a variety of animals that can help to keep your freshwater aquarium clean. Ghost shrimp, cherry shrimp, and other invertebrates like apple snails are fascinating creatures that can help control an aquarium algae problem.
Do algae eaters keep an aquarium clean?
Algae eaters can do an amazing job of controlling many types of algae, including green spot algae, brown algae, and most soft algae types. However, you will still need to clean your tank and perform regular water changes and maintenance to keep your pets healthy.
Which one maintains the glass?
Otocinclus catfish, stiphodon gobies, and bristlenose plecos are the best algae eaters for cleaning your glass. Mystery snails and nerite snails are great invertebrate options for keeping your glass free of algae.
What can I put in my aquarium to keep the water clean?
A good quality filtration system is the most important tool for keeping your aquarium clean. Cleaner fish like Siamese algae eaters, corydoras catfish, and mollies can also help to keep your tank looking great.
Cleanup Crew Comparison
Species
Cleans
Min Tank
Difficulty
Best For
Corydoras
Leftover food, substrate
20 gal (75 L)
Easy
Any community tank
Otocinclus
Green algae on leaves
20 gal (75 L)
Moderate
Planted tanks
Bristlenose Pleco
Algae, biofilm, wood
25 gal (95 L)
Easy
Any freshwater setup
Loach
Snails, leftover food
30 gal (113 L)
Easy
Snail control
Amano Shrimp
Algae, detritus
10 gal (38 L)
Easy
Nano/planted tanks
Nerite Snails
Algae on glass/decor
10 gal (38 L)
Easy
Glass cleaning
Molly
Algae (light duty)
20 gal (75 L)
Easy
Community tanks
Rainbow Shark
Algae, debris
55 gal (208 L)
Moderate
Larger setups only
Avoid If:
You have a persistent algae bloom: cleanup crew won’t solve an algae outbreak driven by excess light or nutrients
Your tank is under 3 months old: otocinclus in particular need a mature biofilm to survive
You’re already overstocked: adding cleanup crew raises bioload, which makes water quality worse, not better
You want snail control in a shrimp tank: loaches eat both snails and shrimp
Final Thoughts
Practically any freshwater aquarium can benefit from one or more of the amazing clean-up fish and invertebrates in this article. If you’re like me, you might find that these fascinating creatures become your favorite animals in the tank!
Just remember that you need to perform regular maintenance in your tank no matter what, and even bottom feeders and algae eaters need good care and regular feeding. Which clean-up crew animals do you keep? Tell us about your favorites in the comments below!
Severum cichlids grow to 8-10 inches (20-25 cm) and need a 55-gallon minimum for a single fish. Do not house them in smaller tanks as juveniles with a plan to upgrade – they outgrow 30-gallon tanks quickly and the stress shows in their health.
Severums are the fish people buy when they want discus but are not ready for the commitment. That is fine, because severums are hardier, more forgiving, and still stunning. But they still get big, still need warm water, and still become territorial when breeding. I have kept both for years and the biggest mistake I see is people putting severums in tanks that are too small because they bought them as juveniles. A 4 inch severum turns into an 8 inch severum faster than you expect. The discus alternative that forgives the mistakes discus never would.
Discus beauty on a community tank budget.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Severum Cichlid
Severums constantly get marketed as “poor man’s discus,” and while I understand the comparison. They’re both round, colorful South American cichlids. It sets the wrong expectations. Severums are their own fish with their own personality. They’re hardier than discus, more interactive, and significantly more territorial. I’ve seen keepers buy severums expecting a discus temperament and then get surprised when their severum starts rearranging the tank and bullying smaller fish. The other thing most guides understate is how big these fish actually get. A full-grown severum can hit 8-10 inches, and at that size, a 55-gallon tank is genuinely too small for a pair.
They’re not a beginner fish. They need real space (55 gallons minimum, more is better), they’ll eat small tank mates, and they’ll demolish live plants. But for an experienced keeper who wants a large, personable South American cichlid with personality, severums are a great pick. Here’s everything you need to know to keep one successfully.
The Reality of Keeping Severum Cichlid
Severums are genuinely one of the easier large cichlids to keep. But easier does not mean effortless. Here is what you need to actually prepare for.
They get bigger than you expect. People see juvenile severums at 3 inches in the store and think they stay that size. They do not. A full-grown severum hits 8 inches and needs a 55 gallon tank at minimum. A pair needs 75 gallons or more.
They eat your plants. Severums are herbivores that will mow down soft plants like a lawnmower. Java fern, anubias, and other tough plants survive. Anything delicate is lunch. Plan your aquascape accordingly.
They bond with their owner. Severums are one of the more interactive cichlids. They learn to recognize you, follow your movements, and some will take food from your hand. This is a fish with genuine personality.
Pairs is aggressive. A bonded pair of severums guarding eggs will defend their territory fiercely. In a community tank, this can mean other fish get pushed into corners or harassed. You need enough tank space to give everyone room.
Biggest Mistake New Severum Cichlid Owners Make
Keeping them in a 29 or 30 gallon tank because they looked small at the store. Severums need room. A single fish needs 55 gallons, and if you plan on a pair, 75 is the starting point. Cramped severums become stressed, pale, and aggressive.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
If you want a large, personable cichlid that does well in a planted tank without the extreme demands of discus, a severum is the best option in the hobby. Go with a gold severum for maximum color or a green severum for a more natural look. Either way, you will not be disappointed.
ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate
Severum cichlids (Heros severus) are medium-large South American cichlids reaching 8-10 inches (20-25 cm). They need 55+ gallon tanks for a single fish, are mostly peaceful but territorial during breeding, and prefer warm soft water.
Key Takeaways
Severum cichlids are large, docile, and wonderful species to introduce to a home tank
They are one of the very few Cichlid species that are partial vegetarians and frugivores
They are beginner-friendly and do well in a variety of tank conditions
While their temperament is on the peaceful side, they may eat fish that fit in their mouths
Severum Cichlids have been in the aquarium hobby since the 1800s1 and the reasons are apparent: their pleasant personalities, large size, and unique and attractive color patterns have made them very popular to aquarists.
These freshwater fish species are scientifically named Heros Severus while commonly known as Severum Cichlids, Rainbow Severum Cichlids, and Banded Cichlids.
Apart from adding a diversity of colors to your aquarium, these fish can are one of the rare large fish that can actually be considered community fish (as long as the fish housed aren’t small enough to fit their mouths)
Origin And Habitat
Severum Cichlids, also labeled as a Poor Man’s Discus, hail from the upper Orinoco and upper Rio Negro Basins in South America.
They were first sighted in the 1800s by an Austrian zoologist and ichthyologist named Johann Jakob Heckel. In their natural habitat, they inhabit slow-moving and vegetated areas with underwater trees and plants.
Appearance
Finding a fish that exhibits a beautiful spectrum of unique colors and patterns, pleasant personality traits, and the ability to bring liveliness to a traditional home aquarium is not impossible anymore.
Severum Cichlids fit well in the showcase fish role. These Cichlid Fish come in different varieties, and each variety has a special color pattern that helps it stand out.
, Severum Cichlids have large oval-shaped compressed bodies with a golden hue dispersed over their entire frames. These bands are visible along the sides and are more vivid in juveniles. Adult Severum Cichlids feature duller stripes. The fry feature consistent gold colors that become flecked with burnt orange spots across a large part of their bodies and fins. There are almost 8 bands present on their bodies, which go dull as the fish ages.
But awkwardly enough, noticing these bands in fry is hard. You can only see that clearly once the juveniles hit maturity.
Severum Cichlids feature sharp anal and dorsal fins that look rather yellow. Their pectoral fins also look pointed. The first set of fins narrows down to a striking point. And in most fish, these fins extend past the caudal fin, giving them a round-shaped look.
Apart from yellow dorsal fins, they have yellow eyes and beautiful tails with a combination of a white base and specks of yellow.
These fish are sold in fish sizes when they are small, but they can grow to an impressive size if you properly look after them.
Since there are different types, it is slightly hard to recognize the original one. To identify which one is real, look at the greenish-hued body combined with a golden-yellow underbelly. Nowadays, you can see alternations in their color patterns that are obtained by home breeding.
These fish are well-known for their subtle orange. These fish will get more intense in color as they mature.
Depending on what species you have, you can expect to see changed color morphs, as well as stripes. Some fish have large and vertical stripes, while others only exhibit extremely contrasting spots that sit perfectly with their yellowish-golden base.
And unlike African and South American Cichlids, Severum Cichlids look flattened and are tall with a vertically rounded shape. The reason they are called poor man’s discus lies in the fact that they mimic the profile of the more pricey discus fish.
To differentiate males from females, look at the size and markings on their gills. The male Severum Cichlid is larger and may develop a nuchal hump and extensions to its anal and dorsal fins. This makes the overall appearance more prominent compared to the female Severum.
Another difference between males and females is the dark spot visible on the female’s dorsal fin. Females also lack patterning on their heads.
Now it’s time to talk about the five most common varieties of Severum Cichlids!
5 Common Varieties
In the aquarium hobby, there are different types of Severum Cichlids. Introducing any type to your tank is a good change from the wild Severum Cichlids that have subdued colored bodies.
Heros Severus
This type of Severum Cichlid is the most recognized compared to others. It has yellow and golden spots, a flat body with pointed dorsal fins, and a tail. They sometimes feature dark stripes down their length and make a beautiful addition to dull aquariums.
These fish is semi-aggressive around some specific species. Usually, they do well in a community tank, so make sure you select the right tank mates for them (we discuss tankmates later in this post).
Heros efasciatus
Heros efasciatus, Redhead Severum, or Red Shoulder Severum are the same fish. This type isn’t as common , but it is incredibly beautiful in its own right. They feature a golden base and bright red spots behind their gill covers, and a vibrant green color as well.
They are available as wild-caught, which makes them more sensitive to tank-bred species. Because they are in high demand, they command a high price tag at the local fish store.
Heros liberifer
Fish of this type feature a plain glistening white base that will sometimes look red or orange.
They have prominent horizontal deep black stripes. Unlike Heros Severus, they are more aggressive and can give a tough time to their tank mates.
Heros spurius
This type of Severum Cichlid is duller than the others mentioned previously. They have hues and stripes visible all across their bodies, including their fins and tails. They can grow up to 7 inches in length.
Heros Notatus
You can find different color varieties with this type of Severum Cichlid. They is purple, orange, green, and yellow. They are known for their spotted bodies. This Severum Cichlid has spots all over their bodies, fins, and tails.
Author's Note: Green Severum Cichlids are the most common and easily found type in pet stores. The Gold variety is the second most common type of Severum Cichlids found in the aquarium trade.
Lifespan
The average lifespan of a Severum Cichlid is around 5 years. With proper care, they can live as long as 10 years in an aquarium.
This makes them a perfect pet for those fish owners who want to spend more time with their pets and establish a stronger connection with their aquatic friends.
Average Size
The Severum Cichlid is known to grow to an impressive size both in the wild and in a home tank.
The Severum Cichlid can go as large as 8 inches. You need to focus on its diet, tank conditions, water quality, and what type of tank mates it has around it to ensure healthy growth. It will suffer from stunted growth as a result of stress. So, ensure there’s nothing in the tank that can stress your pet out.
Care
Severum Cichlid care is actually pretty basic compared to other large fish species. If you’re an ambitious beginner, and you understand their temperament, and what things fit them best in a home tank, you can have a great experience with them.
The Severum Cichlid is a hardy fish capable of adapting to harsh conditions in the wild. Some fish cannot survive what they can peacefully put up with. But it doesn’t mean you should ignore regular maintenance and a proper tank setup.
The Severum Cichlid is a peaceful fish. Unlike other Cichlid species that can fight to the death over food or maintain control over their territory, they remain relatively calm.
However, they can act potentially aggressively around other fish. It is territorial aggression or the overwhelming effect of attacking the smaller fish. Once they show aggression or signs of stress, make sure you separate them from the cause of stress. The Severum Cichlid can fall prey to diseases because of high levels of stress.
Providing good care and a safe environment will create a strong preventive shield from diseases.
Aquarium Setup
Severum Cichlids get large and need an appropriately sized home to make themselves comfortable. A large environment with clean water will help stress low and your fish healthy.
When it comes to setting up an aquarium, you should think about the Severums habitat in the wild. These fish come from murky waters that have low water flow. Knowing this, we do not want high water flow for our gentle giants. They are surface swimmers, so open space is ideal for them.
Open space will get them to swim around, and a large space will keep aggression down. These fish, which gentle in nature can get territorial. A crowded tank will lead to disputes and fighting. Rocks are preferred over driftwood as these fish like to dig. They will stay active throughout the day.
Tank Size
Severum Cichlids don’t grow overnight. But while setting up their tank, considering their growth rate can help decide the size of the tank. Usually, a 55-gallon tank does best for a Severum Cichlid. Feel free to get a larger tank because it’s always better to invest in a spacious tank for your pet.
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Baby Severum Cichlids grow half an inch a month. Once they get to a certain size, you will see a decline in their growth rate. It takes them 2 years to become 8 inches long. Depending on the number of species you have, you can go for a 70-100 gallon tank for fully grown Severum Cichlids and other fish of similar size.
Water Parameters
Severum Cichlids live in tropical water areas of South America. To provide them with the healthiest environment, maintaining the right water parameters is necessary.
Keep the water temperature between 75 F° to 85 F°. Anything below this range will stress out your pet. The range can vary if you want to breed your fish though.
For pH, keep it between 6.0 to 7.0. Make sure pH levels remain stable. Any drastic changes can harm your fish. As for water hardness, I recommend staying between 4 to 15 dGH.
Filtration and Aeration
Facilitating regular water changes is a great way to maintain a healthy tank environment.
A freshwater tank can accumulate several nutrients from waste, such as nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia. Fish waste will contaminate your water quality.
It’s better to make regular water changes of up to 20% to ensure a healthy environment. You can also use a high-quality canister or hang-on-back filter to keep the water well-oxygenated.
Author's Note: Severum Banded Cichlids often gasp for air at the surface when the oxygen levels are low. This often leads to high levels of distress in the fish. If your fish constantly repeats it, it's time to clean out the aquarium water.
Lighting
Lighting is not an issue when it comes to Severum Cichlids. They mostly stay active throughout the day and rest throughout the night. A mild exposure to natural lighting is great. You can also use light LED lights to monitor their activities or to enhance their appearance.
Aquatic Plants And Decoration
Designing the interior of your Severum Cichlid freshwater tank is one of the most enjoyable aspects of the aquarium hobby.
In the wild, they thrive in highly vegetated water and use plenty of hiding spaces to rest in.
While designing their tank, you can use different live plants, plastic caves, and castle accessories. Adding driftwood and rock formations are also some good choices.
This way, your fish will stay busy exploring different things and feeling at home.
While the Severum Cichlid needs hideouts, it is problematic for you to keep the decorative items in place. They have a tendency to dig below decorations. You need to to have them set at the tank glass bottom, so they don’t topple over if dug up.
Live plants are a major challenge with Severums. While many guides you will find online will tell you there are some plants like Anubias and Hornwort that can survive, our experience tells us that this is not the case. Severums are best kept with aquarium rocks over live plants.
Tank Maintenance
Regular tank maintenance holds great value for the well-being of Severum Cichlid.
Cichlids produce chunks of bioload. Apart from getting a good-sized canister filter, you should clean the tank every now and again to keep decorative items, the tank, and the underwater environment clean.
Here are some tank-cleaning tips to get you started:
Occasionally trim the plants and remove plant material from the tank.
Use aquarium water and a clean toothbrush to wash caves and other decorative items
Use an algae scrapper to clean off algae from the tank walls.
Substrate
Severum Cichlids will dig around a lot. They love to create hills and pits by moving sand. You don’t have to be too creative with layering the base since they will redecorate it anyway.
I recommend using a fine sand substrate for the Severum tank. You can also use a little bit bigger grains but don’t good too large on the gravel as large gravel can injure these fish when they try to dig
Pro Tip: In community tanks that need softer water. You can layer the top of the substrate. You can use Indian almond leaves or small clumps of peat moss. This will benefit water conditions. Using leaves will also help create the effect of their natural habitat. Also, make regular replacements as the debris deteriorates.
Is the Severum Cichlid Right for You?
Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.
Great for keepers who love the discus look but want easier care. Severums tolerate a wider range of water conditions and are far more forgiving.
Need at least 75 gallons for a pair. These fish get big, and they need room to establish territories without constant conflict.
One of the more personable cichlids. They recognize their owners and develop distinct behavioral patterns over time.
Not ideal for planted tanks. Severums are known plant eaters. They’ll systematically destroy most aquarium plants.
Good for semi-aggressive community tanks. They coexist well with similar-sized South American cichlids, large tetras, and plecostomus species.
Skip if you want a hands-off tank. They produce significant waste and need strong filtration plus regular water changes.
Community Tank Mates
Placing your Severum Cichlid with the right kind of tank mates will help in the long run. No beginner can afford frequent conflicts among fish. Not only that, incompatible tank mates can turn a healthy fish into a stressed one.
Severum Cichlids are peaceful. But they habitually love colonizing the entire tank. You can prevent this by creating necessary barriers within the tank without curtailing their land and freedom to roam around.
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For a Severum Cichlid tank, you should look for medium or larger mellow fish species that can make compatible tank mates.
Here’s a list of some of the best species to consider.
Avoid larger and more aggressive fish species to pair up with Severum Cichlids. These aggressive tank mates should never be kept in the same tank as your Severum Cichlid.
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Unlike other Cichlid species, Severum Cichlids don’t realize they have the ability to defend themselves. Avoid these other species when it comes to Banded Cichlid tank mates:
Breeding Cichlids is a wonderful experience as these fish will breed in pairs and will care for their fry. In order to pull it off, you will need to start up with several juvenile fish – at least to start out. They will need to grow up together until you see a couple pair up. That is your sign that a breeding pair is forming
However, these Severum Cichlids are selective about who they decided to breed with. Keep them together and hope that they bond. It will take up to 6 months for cichlids to go from juveniles to forming as a pair. You will need to be patient and understand that this takes time.
Once you have a breed, it’s time to set up the environment. Here is what you need to do:
Obtain a separate tank to use for breeding the pair.
Set the temperature higher – 78 – 81 degrees F to be exact
Keep plenty of decor and hiding plants for comfort
Feed the fish a well-balanced diet. A healthy fish will actively breed, so diet is key
Once the pair do their thing, the eggs will hatch in about a week. Both parents will watch over the eggs and raise the fry together. Work with crushed flake food to feed the fry or use enriched hatch brine shrimp.
Food and Diet
The Severum Banded Cichlid is an omnivore. They are hardly picky and, therefore, will feast on anything you drop in their tank.
To spice up their menu, feel free to go for high-quality herbivore and carnivore flakes.
You can also feed them pellets, micro worms, earthworms, bloodworms, marine crustaceans, white mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, green vegetables, and even fruit.
Don’t feed your pet beef heart or liver as they have fragile digestive systems and can fall ill from it.
Common Health Problems
Like any other fish, Common Severum Cichlid species can also fall prey to different diseases. You should always keep an eye out for common symptoms so that you can treat them on time.
Here are some common diseases Severum Cichlids are susceptible to.
Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)
This disease is common in fish species raised in tanks with poor water quality. Other common reasons is over-filtration with toxic chemicals, stress, vitamin deficiency, and poor diet.
The most common symptom of this disease is a hole in the head of the fish
It begins as small pits of receding skin around the fish’s head and lateral line and sometimes occurs on the unpaired fins. To treat this, simply isolate your pet, get water conditions fixed and supplement its diet with vitamin C, calcium, and phosphorus.
Ich
Ich is a very common fish disease. The presence of an external protozoan parasite causes this infection.
Some common symptoms are:
Multiple small white spots on the fish’s body and gills
Frequent scrapping of the body against hard objects
Abnormal behavior
FAQs
Is Severum a hardy fish?
Yes, Severum cichlids are very hardy. They can withstand harsh environmental conditions but still need proper tank conditions to thrive. If they are properly looked after, they can provide you with enjoyment for a very long time.
Can Oscars and severums live together?
Severum Cichlids are semi-aggressive. Some species can be on the more aggressive side, while others stay pretty composed. But their large size and toughness allow them to stand up to an Oscar. The behavior Severum Cichlids display in a tank shared with an Oscar is not problematic. But make sure there is no aggression from the other side as well.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Severum Cichlid
This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.
They are gentle giants. For a fish that reaches 8 inches, severums are remarkably docile. They coexist with smaller fish like tetras and corydoras without issues, as long as the tank mates are too big to fit in their mouth.
They have moods. Severums change color based on mood and stress level. A happy, dominant severum shows vivid bars and bright colors. A stressed one fades to a pale, washed-out version of itself.
Plant destruction is real. I cannot overstate this. If you put delicate stem plants in a severum tank, they will be eaten. Use java fern, anubias, and bolbitis. Everything else is at risk.
They pair bond for life. Severums form strong pair bonds and will breed repeatedly once established. The courtship behavior is fascinating to watch, and both parents participate in guarding the eggs and fry.
How the Severum Cichlid Compares to Similar Species
The obvious comparison is discus, and I’ll be direct: severums are the better choice for 90% of fishkeepers. Discus need pristine water quality, temperatures above 82°F, soft acidic water, and a carefully controlled diet. Severums thrive in a much wider range of conditions. Standard tropical temperatures, moderate pH, and they’ll eat practically anything. Discus are more visually refined and come in more color varieties, but severums offer 80% of the visual impact with about 20% of the difficulty. The main downside of severums compared to discus is aggression. Severums will hold their own in a community, which discus won’t.
The uaru cichlid is a less common but worthwhile comparison. Uarus are similar in size and shape to severums but are calmer and more social. Both are herbivorous grazers that will destroy plants. Uarus are rarer in the hobby and harder to find, but if you can source them, they offer a gentler temperament with similar care requirements.
Closing Thoughts
Severums are the discus you can actually keep without losing sleep.
I hope you learned a lot about Severums from our article. They are an underrated fish, and in my opinion, the label of poor person’s cichlid doesn’t jive well with me. They stand on their own in an aquarium and make a settler showcase fish. Their gentle nature makes them one of the rare large fish that will tolerate tank mates and is hardy. Give them a chance, and they will shine and give you many years of joy.
Have you kept Severums in the past? Let us know in the comments. Until next time!
The Dinosaur Bichir is the kind of fish that makes experienced keepers stop and stare. This is not a beginner species. It requires specific conditions, a specific tank, and a keeper who understands what they are signing up for. After 25 years in the hobby, I still consider this one of the most fascinating fish you can own.
This fish will outgrow your plans. Accept that before you buy it.
This fish lives a long time, grows large, and demands a dedicated setup. The commitment is real and the costs add up over years, not months.
Oddball fish are not conversation starters. They are conversation dominators. Guests will stare at this tank for twenty minutes.
A few things to know upfront: they’re air-breathers, so they need consistent access to the water surface. They’re predators, so small tank mates won’t last. And they can escape. A tight-fitting lid is non-negotiable. They’re surprisingly hardy, but they’re not a community fish. Here’s what you need to set one up right.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Dinosaur Bichir
Oddball fish are the fish that visitors notice first. Nobody glances at this tank and keeps walking. They stop, stare, and ask questions. Be prepared to explain what you are keeping multiple times a week.
Feeding is an event. Many oddballs are predators that hunt live or frozen food with visible intensity. Watching this fish track and strike at prey is one of the most dramatic moments in fishkeeping.
These fish grow fast and steadily. One month it fits comfortably. Three months later, you are researching larger tanks. The growth rate catches new owners off guard every single time.
Oddball fish often recognize their owners. They approach the glass when you enter the room, accept food from your hand, and display behaviors that feel remarkably personal. That connection is why oddball keepers rarely go back to community tanks.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Dinosaur Bichir
Most care sheets list the minimum tank size for Dinosaur Bichir and call it a day. But a minimum is just that. In my experience, giving them more room changes their behavior completely. You see more natural movement, less stress, and fewer aggression issues. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Dinosaur Bichir are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Dinosaur Bichir
Tank size requirements are extreme. Most oddball fish grow large, fast, and need significantly more space than beginners expect. A 2-inch juvenile will eventually need hundreds of gallons. Research adult size before purchasing, not juvenile size.
Diet is specialized. Many oddball fish are predators that need live or frozen foods. Some refuse pellets entirely. Feeding costs for large predatory fish add up quickly over the life of the fish.
Tankmate compatibility is extremely limited. Most oddball fish are either predators that eat smaller fish or territorial species that attack anything in their space. Community setups require careful size matching.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Buying a juvenile oddball fish without understanding its adult size. That cute 3-inch fish at the store will be 18 inches long within two years and need a tank most people cannot afford or fit in their home.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Before you buy any oddball fish, look up its adult size and multiply your expected tank cost by three. That is the realistic budget for keeping this fish properly.
Dinosaur bichirs (Polypterus senegalus) are large, primitive fish reaching 12-14 inches (30-35 cm). They are predators that will eat small fish at night, need 75+ gallon tanks, and are escape artists requiring tight-fitting lids.
Key Takeaways
It is well known that bichir fish can breathe air, which enables them to live in situations with low oxygen levels and forage for food on the water’s surface.
Some of these fish may grow to be extremely enormous, measuring up to three feet in length (91 cm). It’s critical to give them a roomy tank that can fit their expanding growth. For a fully grown dinosaur bichir, a tank that is at least 90 gallons (284 litres) in size is advised.
These fish may be housed with a variety of tankmates that get along with them and are quiet. To prevent any hostility or bullying, it’s critical to pair together fish in the same tank that are comparable in size and temperament.
Want a conversation piece? Get this fish. Want easy maintenance? Get community fish instead. There is no middle ground with oddball species.
The Senegal bichir, also known as the Reed fish, Cuvier’s bichir, grey bichir, Swamp dragon, Dragon fish, and Dinosaur eel, are all the common names of dinosaur bichir (Polypterus Senegalus). The fact that Dinosaur Bichirs are fish and not eels, the name, Dinosaur eel, is rather confusing.
Dinosaur bichirs are freshwater fish that belongs to the family Polypteridae with ray finned fins. They are found in Africa and, sometimes, in a range of aquatic environments, including lakes, swamps, rivers, and streams.
There are over a dozen distinct species of swamp dragons, sometimes called dinosaur bichirs. The Grey Bichir or Senegalus Bichir species, however, is the most popular among fish keepers. Dark grey horizontal stripes that gradually wane as the fish matures are present all over the dinosaur Bichir.
Origin and Habitat
They are freshwater fish and are native to African regions such as Chad, Cameroon, Ghana, Senegal, and Sudan as well as other African nations extending from the Nile River basin into West Africa.
Appearance
Dinosaur bichir have elongated, eel-like bodies that are covered in a row of bony, fin-like appendages called pterygiophores. These leg like limbs support the fish while they are lying on the bottom and aid in movement through the water. They often have a row of spines running along their backs and are a light green or brown tint.
They have a mouth full of tiny, pointed teeth and enormous, prominent eyes. They are well recognised for being able to breathe air, which enables them to survive in situations with low oxygen levels.
Overall, dinosaur bichir are enchanting freshwater fish that are well-liked by aquarium hobbyists. They are a fantastic option for beginner aquarists because of their hardiness and versatility.
How Big Do Senegal Bichir Get?
Some Bichir species can reach lengths of up to 3 feet. However, other fish species, like the Senegalese Bichir, only reach a height of about one foot.
Dinosaur bichirs have the potential to grow fairly enormous, with some reaching lengths of up to three feet (91 cm). However, these fish often have substantially smaller average sizes, with most individuals being between 12 and 24 inches long (30-60 cm). Diet, environment, and heredity are just a few examples of the variables that might affect the typical dinosaur bichir size.
It’s crucial to these fish, especially when they’re young, may develop pretty fast. Therefore, it’s important to give them a roomy tank that can fit their expanding growth. For a fully developed dinosaur bichir, a tank capacity of at least 90 gallons is advised. In order to encourage their growth and development, it’s crucial to provide them a high-quality food that is abundant in protein and other minerals.
Dinosaur Bichir Lifespan
A dinosaur bichir’s lifetime can change based on things including nutrition, environment, and genetics. These fish are known to live relatively longer in general, with some living for over 20 years. However, they frequently survive for 10 to 15 years in captivity, especially if they get good care.
It’s crucial to provide your dinosaur bichir with a roomy tank that is adequately filtered and oxygenated if you want to help guarantee that they live a long and healthy life. To promote their growth and development, these fish also require a high-quality food that is rich in protein and other minerals. Your fish can stay healthy and happy by receiving regular water changes and tank upkeep.
Care Guide
Dinosaur bichir are hardy fish species that are well-liked by people who enjoy keeping fish. They are indigenous to Africa and may be found in a range of aquatic environments, such as lakes, rivers, and streams. These fish are well known for being able to breathe air, which enables them to live in situations with low oxygen levels.
Tank Setup
If you’re interested in keeping dinosaur bichir as pets, here is a general care guide to help you get started:
Tank size
Dinosaur bichir can get pretty big with some species reaching around 3 feet in length. Therefore, aim for providing them with a spacious tank size that can accommodate their size, keeping them happy and healthy.
The ideal tank size of dinosaur bichirs should be no less than 90 gallons.
Water Parameters
Dinosaur Bichirs fish can tolerate a broad range of water conditions. However, they prefer a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and a water temperature of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 28 degrees Celsius). I recommend doing regular water changes and installing a reliable filtration system to maintain the water quality so your bichirs remain happy and healthy.
Handling
Dinosaur Bichirs are sensitive to stress and is hurt by hard handling, thus touching them is not advised. It is recommended to watch over and take care of these fish without going inside the tank.
Tank Maintenance
Your dinosaur bichir’s health and wellbeing depend on proper tank upkeep. Here are some general pointers for keeping the fish in these tanks in a healthy habitat. For your tank’s water quality to remain high, routine water changes are essential.
A gravel vacuum should be used to remove any substrate debris before doing a water change of roughly 25% once a week. Before adding tap water to the tank, make sure to run it through a water conditioner to get rid of chlorine and other impurities.
The water quality in your tank must be maintained using a high-grade filtering system. It’s crucial to pick a filter that fits your tank’s size and the quantity of fish you keep. You make sure your filter is operating correctly, and be sure to clean and maintain it frequently.
A healthy tank habitat for dinosaur bichir includes filtration and aeration. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. They are well recognized for being able to breathe air, which enables them to survive in situations with low oxygen levels.
Here are some general guidelines for filtration and aeration in a tank for dinosaur bichirs:
Filtration: To keep the water in your tank in good condition, a top-notch filtration system is necessary. It’s crucial to pick a filter that fits your tank’s size and the quantity of fish you keep. For dinosaur bichir, a filter that can process at least 4-6 times the capacity of your tank per hour is advised.
Aeration: Maintaining your tank’s oxygen levels and enhancing your fish’s general health require enough aeration. To add oxygen to the water, it makes sense to utilize an air pump and air stones. To assist in circulating and oxygenating the water, you may also utilize a powerhead or a canister filter.
Filter Filter types: Canister filters, hang-on-back filters, and sponge filters are a few of the filter types that may be used in a tank for dinosaur bichir. Larger tanks benefit from canister filters because they offer a high flow rate and a lot of filter media capacity. Smaller tanks benefit from hang-on-back filters since they are simple to install and maintain. For dinosaur bichir, sponge filters may not be enough as these fish are hard on bioloads.
Aquatic Plants and Decorations
For a tank containing the dinosaur bichir, aquatic plants and ornaments is a wonderful addition. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. They are normally calm and don’t need much room to swim, although they do like certain structures and hiding spots in their tank. The best aquatic plants for Dinosaur bichirs are Java Fern, Java Moss, Anubias, and other lowlight plants.
Your dinosaur bichir can have structures and hiding places to explore such as caverns, PVC pipes, and artificial vegetation.
Author's Note:It's crucial to pick decorations that are secure for your fish and free of any potentially harmful sharp edges or rough surfaces.
Substrate
The substrate, or the substance that makes up the tank’s bottom, can also play a significant role in the decoration of your tank. Fine gravel, sand, or a mix of the two are suitable substrate choices for dinosaur bichir. It’s important to choose a substrate that is secure for your fish and simple to care for.
Since Dinosaur Bichirs are carnivorous fish, they consume a wide range of meals, including live, frozen, and freeze-dried worms, crustaceans, and insects. To promote their growth and development, it’s essential to provide them a varied diet that is high in protein and other nutrients.
Depending on their size and age, you should only feed your fish once or twice a day. Also, it’s not recommended to overfeed your Bichirs to maintain tank hygiene and maintain pristine water conditions. Feed them as much as they can eat in a few minutes.
Variety
Your dinosaur bichir’s general health and well-being depend on having a diversified diet. You may provide them with high-quality commercial pellet or flake food that is made for omnivorous fish in addition to live and frozen items.
Supplements
I also advise including fresh vegetables like spinach, lettuce, and peas in the diet of your dinosaur bichir. However, these vegetables may be difficult to digest for your Bichirs. To cater to this, I recommend blanching these veggies beforehand.
Feeding habits
Dinosaur bichir are carnivorous predators and opportunistic eaters that will consume a wide range of foods. They may forage for food on the water’s surface because of their well-known capacity to breathe air. It’s crucial to provide them with a balanced diet composed of both aquatic and terrestrial items.
Community Tank Mates
Although they can occasionally be moderately aggressive fish, dinosaur bichirs are often calm fish that get along well with various tank mates. They are a fantastic choice for a community tank because of their hardiness and versatility.
Compatibility
Regarding size, attitude, and environmental needs, it’s critical to select tankmates that are suitable for dinosaur bichir. These fish ought to be housed alongside other tranquil species that won’t bother or nibble at them.
Size
Dinosaur bichir may grow up to three feet in length, making them huge fish (91 cm). To prevent any hostility or bullying, it’s crucial to select tankmates that are of like size.
Water conditions
Choose tankmates who can tolerate the same water conditions as dinosaur bichir if you want them to survive. Bichirs prefer tropical temperatures of 75. 82°F (24. 28°C) and a pH range of 6.5. 7.5.
Some good community tank mates for dinosaur bichir include:
The majority of dinosaur bichir are rather aggressive fish. They are famous for their resilience, flexibility, and general calmness around other fish. It’s crucial to remember that every fish has a unique personality and may display various behaviors based on their surroundings and tank mates. Dinosaur eels occasionally exhibit aggressive behavior toward smaller or slower-moving fish, especially if they feel threatened or are hungry.
Choose tankmates that are suitable with dinosaur bichir in terms of size, temperament, and environmental needs to help reduce aggressiveness in your tank.
Additionally, it’s imperative to provide your fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore. You may lessen hostility and foster harmony in the population of fish in your aquarium by giving your fish a healthy, stress-free environment.
Can You Keep A Single Dinosaur Bichir fish?
Dinosaur bichirs is content and healthy without tank mates. However, some individuals might find it more intriguing and delightful to observe a community of fish interacting and exploring their surroundings as a whole rather than keeping their dinosaur bichir alone.
Choose tankmates that are compatible with your dinosaur bichir in terms of size, temperament, and environmental needs if you prefer to keep them together with other fish. Additionally, it’s crucial to provide your fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore.
The choice of whether to keep your dinosaur bichir with tank mates or alone is ultimately subjective and will rely on your choices and the particular requirements of your fish.
How Many Dinosaur Bichirs Should You Have?
Numerous variables, including as the tank’s size, the fish’s size, and the tank’s general stocking density, affect the number of dinosaur bichir.
Aim for a stocking density of around 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of fish per gallon (3.8 litres) of water as a general rule. This will help avoid overpopulation and stress by giving each fish ample room to swim and explore.
Poor Tank Mates
Dinosaur bichir shouldn’t be kept with certain fish, such as:
Fish that are territorial or aggressive
Since dinosaur bichir are often placid, fish that are likely to nip at them or bother them may not get along well with them. Cichlids, several catfish species, and some tetra species are a few examples of aggressive fish that would not make good tankmates for dinosaur bichir.
Fish that are smaller or move more slowly
Because dinosaur bichir are predatory fish, they may feed on these fish, especially if they are not receiving enough food. To prevent any hostility or bullying, it’s critical to pair together fish in the same tank that are comparable in size and temperament.
Fish with different habitat requirements
It’s crucial to find tank mates who can tolerate the same water conditions as dinosaur bichirs in their native home since various fish have varied habitat needs. These fish like temperatures of 75. 82°F (24. 28°C) and a pH range of 6.5. 7.5. Fish that demand very high or very low pH levels or temperatures, for example, may not be acceptable.
Breeding
Breeding senegal bichir, sometimes known as dinosaur bichir, is a rather simple operation that doesn’t need for any specialised setup or equipment. The breeding process of Dinosaur bichirs is as follows:
Aquarium setup
It’s crucial to provide your breeding fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore. For a fully developed dinosaur bichir, a tank that is at least 90 gallons (284 litres) in size is advised.
Water conditions
These fish like waters with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and a temperature of 75 to 82°F (24 to 28°C). By making routine water changes and utilising a top-notch filtration system, good water quality may be maintained.
Diet
Your breeding fish should have a varied diet that is high in protein and other elements for general health and well being. You may provide them with high-quality commercial pellet or flake food that is made for omnivorous fish in addition to live and frozen items.
Breeding behavior
Bichir dinosaurs are mostly calm creatures that don’t engage in any particular courtship or mating behavior. On a level surface, the female will lay her eggs, and the male will fertilize them. Your breeding fish should have a lot of hiding spots and structures to make them feel safe and promote breeding behavior.
Incubation and hatching
Depending on the water’s temperature, the eggs will hatch 7 to 10 days after fertilization. Maintaining adequate water quality and giving the fry appropriate food as they develop is crucial.
Common Health Problems
Dinosaur bichir, like any pets, are susceptible to various health issues if they are not given the necessary care. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. Although they are renowned for their resilience and flexibility, poor tank conditions can still cause them to have health issues.
Here are some common health problems that dinosaur bichir may experience:
Ich
Ich is one of the most common fish diseases that is brought on by a parasite that can spread through contact with contaminated fish or through the water.
Symptoms
White patches on the skin and gills
Lethargy
A loss of appetite
Several treatments is used to treat ich, but the best way to stop outbreaks is to maintain acceptable water quality and practice basic hygiene.
Fin rot
Fin rot is caused by a bacterial infection. It frequently results from bad water, crowded conditions, or physical harm to the fins.
Symptoms
Fin rot signs include ragged or frayed fins
Redness or inflammation
An appetite reduction.
Antibiotics is used to cure fin rot, but to stop it from happening again, the root problem must be addressed.
Swim bladder disorder
A disease known as swim bladder dysfunction affects the swim bladder, an organ filled with gas that keeps fish buoyant. It is brought on by a number of things, including bad water quality and overfeeding.
FAQS
How big do dinosaur bichirs get?
Some species of these fish may grow fairly large, up to a length of around 11.8 to 23.6 inches.
Are bichirs aggressive?
Although bichirs are normally not violent, they can become so during mating. As long as they are not too little and are not aggressive themselves, they are calm fish that may be housed alongside other kinds of fish.
Before introducing any species of bichir to your aquarium, it is a good idea to do some research on the particular species you are interested in keeping and to speak with an experienced fishkeeper or a veterinarian. Since every animal has its own personality, it’s critical to provide your bichir with lots of room and a suitable habitat so they may grow.
Do They Have Teeth?
Yes, Dinosaur Bichirs have a set of horny, tooth-like structures in their neck and upper digestive system called pharyngeal teeth that they utilise to break open their prey’s shells. Despite not being actual teeth, these structures have a comparable function.
Can They Live Out Of Water?
They cannot survive without water. Bichirs, like other fish, need on an ongoing flow of oxygen-rich water to sustain their breathing and other bodily processes.
What Do You Feed A Dinosaur Eel?
Since they are carnivores, bichirs rarely eat dry foods. A diet of frozen or live foods, such as shrimp, baitfish, mussels, and earthworms, is suggested for larger fish. Smaller animals also consume bloodworms, mosquito larvae, and vitamin-enriched brine shrimp.
Hard Rule: Dinosaur bichirs are air-breathers and must be able to reach the water surface freely. A tight-fitting, weighted lid is also required — they are strong escape artists that will push off loose covers.
Is the Dinosaur Bichir Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You have a large tank (90+ gallons / 340+ L) for a full-grown adult
You want a prehistoric-looking fish with real character and nocturnal activity
You keep medium to large tank mates that cannot be swallowed – 5 inches (13 cm) minimum
You enjoy fish that are more personality-driven than active daytime swimmers
Avoid If:
You keep fish under 4 inches (10 cm) – bichirs eat anything they can fit in their mouth
You want an active, visible daytime fish – bichirs are mostly nocturnal
Your lid is not secure – bichirs escape and they move surprisingly quickly on land
You have a tank with no surface access or a permanently sealed lid – they need air
Final Thoughts
Dinosaur bichirs are popular freshwater fish that resemble eels; that’s why there are also called as dinosaur eels. They are hardy and easy to care for, but under certain circumstances, they may develop underlying health issues that need special attention and care. Hence, maintain water quality and provide them with ideal tank size and tank mate to ensure their healthy lifestyle.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Choosing tank mates for dwarf gouramis is harder than most guides make it sound. These fish stress easily, carry disease risk from poor breeding, and become territorial in small tanks. The wrong tank mates turn a sick-prone fish into a dead one faster. In my experience, the tank mate question is almost always secondary, the first question is whether the fish you bought is even healthy enough to survive long-term.
Tank mate selection for dwarf gouramis is about reducing stress, not adding decoration.
Healthy dwarf gouramis in a well-planted tank are wonderful community fish. One thing to know: males will be aggressive with each other, so keep only one male unless the tank is large enough to establish separate territories. I’ve seen two male dwarf gouramis in the same 20-gallon tank more times than I’d like, it always ends the same way, with one hiding in a corner and slowly declining. Here are 15 tank mates that work well with them.
The Dwarf Gourami is known scientifically as Colisa lalia1. It is indigenous to Pakistan, Bangladesh, Borneo, Myanmar, and Nepal. It may thrive in flooded rice fields and is found in slow-moving streams, lakes, and tributaries of the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers.
Key Takeaways
Choose suitable tank mates for Dwarf Gouramis so they can live in harmony
Dwarf gouramis are a type of labyrinth fish that have a special organ that allows them to take in oxygen from the surface of the tank
Since dwarf gouramis are calm fish, they may be kept in community tanks. However, you should be aware that certain fish species may end up harassing the dwarf gourami.
How To Choose Tank Mates
Choosing suitable tank mates for Dwarf Gouramis is very important. Since they can get aggressive at times, make sure the tank mates you choose complement the Gourami tank.
There are a few parameters you need to consider before choosing the right tank mate for your Dwarf gouramis.
Since Dwarf Gourami is a tropical fish, they require high temperatures to thrice. The ideal temperature range of 75-82°F is preferred.
Nitrite and ammonia should test negative at 0 ppm. Any type of nitrogenous waste is bad for dwarf gouramis; even nitrate levels need to be carefully watched. The dwarf gouramis prefer slightly acidic water with a pH of 5.5 – 7.0. Stress will be reduced to levels of 10 ppm or less nitrate. To ensure that a fresh aquarium is properly cycled, add dwarf gouramis last to a new aquarium.
Temperament
Tank mates for dwarf gourami should be docile and social fish species of comparable size. Male dwarf gourami may occasionally display semi-aggressive behavior against other fish. However, they lack the aggression to kill them.
When no female gouramis are around, male gouramis frequently exhibit aggressive behavior. When your male gourami is trying to win over a female, his colors will likewise be more vibrant.
Tetras, rasboras, danios, and cherry barbs are a few examples of shy, soft water aquarium fish that make suitable tank mates. Semi-aggressive species like dwarf cichlids, pea puffers, betta fish, and angelfish are also good for bigger aquariums (40+ gallons).
Size
Dwarf Gourami does well in community tanks that are 20 gallons in size or larger. They need a serene, peaceful setting.
Therefore, avoid placing your aquarium in a busy area if you intend to keep them there. You should also note that the aquarium shouldn’t receive any direct sunlight. There shouldn’t be much movement in the water, and the lighting should be minimal.
Honey Gourami vs Dwarf Gourami
Both the honey and the dwarf gourami are beautiful fish species with amazing traits and appearances. Each fish has a unique set of characteristics. If you have trouble deciding which one to get, I’ll list down some important pointers in this section.
Read on.
Appearance and Size
Dwarf gourami and honey dwarf gourami have drastically distinct appearances.
Firstly, when male honey gourami becomes adult and more mature, they start to display vivid yellow, orange, red, and golden colors.
Comparatively, females have more silver and grey coloring. Since the fins of both sexes frequently resemble each other and male honey gouramis only later tend to develop vivid, distinguishing colors, it can occasionally be challenging to seduce juvenile honey gouramis.
Female honey gouramis grow to a maximum of 2 inches, although males often reach 1.5 inches.
Temperament
As far as temperament is concerned, dwarf gouramis are semi-aggressive fish at times, especially with other male gouramis. Whereas honey gouramis are more peaceful fish, ideal for beginners for a community tank.
It is believed that in a community tank where any fish shows the slightest of aggressive behavior, honey gouramis will hide and feel intimidated by them
Color Variety
In terms of color variety and overall beauty, honey gouramis cannot compete with dwarf gouramis.
Blue, orange, rainbow, and red are just a few of the many hues that dwarf gouramis may have. Dwarf gouramis have several colors, which gives them a more appealing appearance than honey gouramis.
Males and females both have bright patterns, while females are often more silvery. Because male dwarf gouramis tend to be leaner and shorter and females have a rounder abdomen and a smaller dorsal fin, sexing dwarf gouramis is not difficult.
Since dwarf gouramis may reach lengths of up to 4.5 inches, they are larger than honey gouramis and need a larger aquarium.
Top 15 AquariumCompanions
Now that you know how to choose the ideal tank mates for your dwarf Gouramis and whether honey gouramis or dwarf gouramis are better for you.
Let’s take a look at my favorite list of 15 Dwarf Gouramis tank mates.
Expert Take
After 25+ years in this hobby and years managing fish stores, I’ve sold and kept more dwarf gouramis than I can count, and I’ve watched the quality of farmed stock decline significantly over that time. Dwarf gouramis have a reputation problem, not because they’re difficult community fish, but because they’re very sensitive to aggression and disease. Iridovirus has devastated the farmed dwarf gourami supply, meaning a significant percentage of dwarf gouramis sold in stores carry a fatal virus. Before you worry about tank mates, source your fish carefully. Wild-type and captive-bred from reputable suppliers are your best insurance. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot
Quick-Reference Comparison Table
Species
Adult Size
Min Tank
Ease
Compatibility
Corydoras Catfish
2.5 to 12 cm (1.0 to 4.7 in)
20 gallons
7/10
High
Harlequin Rasboras
2 inches
10 gallons
7/10
High
Bristlenose Pleco
4 to 5 inches
20 to 30 gallons
7/10
High
Cherry Barb
2 inches
25 to 30 gallons
7/10
High
Neon Tetra
4 inches
10 gallons
7/10
High
Cardinal Tetra
1.25 inches
10 gallons
7/10
High
Black Skirt Tetra
3 inches
15 gallons
7/10
High
Molly Fish
3½ to 6 inches
10 gallons
7/10
High
Chili Rasbora
0.7 inches
5 gallons
7/10
High
Zebra Danios
1.5 inches
5 gallons
7/10
High
Rainbowfish
4.7 inches
30 gallons
7/10
High
Otocinclus Catfish
1 1/2. 2 inches
10 gallons
7/10
High
Glass Catfish (Ghost Fish)
3.1 inches
30 gallons
7/10
High
Amano Shrimp
2 inches
5 gallons
7/10
High
1. Corydoras Catfish
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name”: Corydoras
Adult Size: 2.5 to 12 cm (1.0 to 4.7 in)
pH: 6.5 to 7.8
Water Temperature: 72 and 82°F.
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of 5 or more
The Corydoras catfish species are well-known across North America. There are over 150 identified species, which are dispersed worldwide.
Corydoras catfish are excellent for maintaining in aquariums with other fish of the same type. They coexist quietly and never bother the other fish in the tank. They assist in cleaning the debris and extra food that has been collected at the bottom of the aquarium as they continue to forage for food there.
As they would join a group with other Corydoras, they are regarded as “social” in the aquarium. Together, they will swim, look for food, and even take breaks. One catfish will often be perched on top of another. They will make friends with other tank mates and live contentedly even if there are no catfish around. In the aquarium, you must keep them together or at least with other fish species of the same kind.
2. Harlequin Rasboras
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
As a schooling fish, the Harlequin Rasbora should be kept in a reasonable-sized group. A group of twelve Harlequin Rasboras in a fish aquarium is a stunning and lovely sight. Despite being an Asian fish of a different species, it has many traits with little tetras from South America.
The Harlequin Rasbora is a perfect fish for a community tank with adorable little fish, but I would steer clear of large or aggressive species. Lemon, Neon, Cardinal, Emperor, Head and Tail, Glowlight, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Dwarf Gourami, Zebra Danios, and other small fish species are examples of companion fish that are suitable for Harlequin Rasboras.
3. Bristlenose Pleco
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Because they are the smaller version of the common pleco, bristlenose plecos are frequently preferable for smaller aquariums with like-minded fish species. They can only reach a maximum size of around 5 inches, which is rather comparable to the dwarf gouramis.
The fact that Bristlenose plecos are nice and peaceful fish makes them ideal tank mates for dwarf gourami species. They have a five-year lifespan.
The majority of their food is herbivore, which is something to keep in mind, but because dwarf gouramis are omnivores, this shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Because they like to hide and swim between barriers in the tank, bristlenose plecos require a sufficient amount of plants and hiding spots.
4. Cherry Barb
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Compared to other barbs, the Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya) is a considerably more calm fish. It originates in Sri Lanka (which used to be called Ceylon). It is uncommon in its natural environment, where habitat degradation is a danger. It is a quiet and well-liked, peaceful community fish (schooling fish).
Cherry Barbs are omnivores, like the Gourami fish. In the wild, they will consume algae, insect larvae, particularly young mosquitoes, and a variety of other little things. They are simple fish to feed and will consume any typical fish food in the tank. All these factors make them good tank mates for Dwarf Gourami.
They like the occasional feeding of live food, such as daphnia or wrigglers, like almost other aquarium fish do. Frozen blood worms, for example, are a tasty delicacy.
5. Neon Tetra
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
One of the most popular aquarium fish is the Neon Tetra or Paracheirodon innesi. It can grow to a maximum length of a little over 3cm. Neon Tetras are suitable for an aquarium with other small fish in it.
Small Rasboras, tiny tetras, and livebearers like platies, swordtails, and guppies are some fish species that is excellent tank mates for them.
There should be Plants or other covering present in the community tanks. This gives the fish some security and also, these fish species reveal more of themselves around plants.
Since the neon fish schools are in groups of four or more, I advise keeping them in groups. Additionally, a group of neon Tetra fish in an aquarium is a stunning sight. The Neon’s colors fade in the dark but immediately return when it is illuminated.
Neon Tetra fish feeds on all typical aquarium diets, including flakes. They also benefit from eating dry fried food.
Hard Rule: Never keep two male dwarf gouramis together. Two males in the same tank will fight continuously until the submissive one is dead or too stressed to recover. One male, or a male-female pair, is the only safe configuration.
6. Cardinal Tetra
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more
The Cardinal Tetra originates from the upper Amazon River. Both the environment and the fish are tropical. Unless they is housed in an environment that never gets chilly, cardinals need hot water. An aquarium heater is a logical choice for heating the water. I advise adjusting the temperature to 24C for Cardinals.
Cardinal Tetra and Dwarf Gourami are frequently successfully housed, and they appear to be better able to withstand high temperatures. Dwarf Gourami requires different care than neon fish. Additionally, they are slightly larger than Dwarf Gouramis and are less prone to be eaten by them.
All large, aggressive fish, Buenos Aires Tetras, and Tiger Barbs are not advisable to keep with Cardinals. There is a considerable risk if you do that, but I am aware of examples where people have successfully kept Cardinals with some of the fish I just mentioned.
7. Black Skirt Tetra
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Adult Size: 3 inches
pH: 6.0. 7.5
Water Temperature: 78°F. 82°F
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more
Black Skirt Tetras are calm, peaceful fish species. As long as no other fish in the community are particularly hostile, they are peaceful schooling fish and thrive in community fish tanks.
The fish swim in teams. As a result, adding many tetras with other tank mates like the Dwarf Gourami to your community tank is a smart idea. The ideal range is four to six.
8. Molly Fish
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops
Adult Size: 3½ to 6 inches
pH: 7.5. 8.5
Water Temperature: 75°-80°F
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 4
Mollies are fish that dwells on the surface and are active. They are available in practically all live fish shops. There are a variety of captive-bred species that can adapt to a variety of water characteristics. Mollies and dwarf gourami is kept together even though they both prefer harsher water.
Mollies may also be fairly aggressive when it comes to eating and are extremely swift. They are such chowhounds that it is challenging for slower fish to reach food quickly enough, not because they intentionally hurt other fish when they are feeding.
To give the gourami fish a greater opportunity of snatching a meal away from the voracious mollies, you might want to think about putting food in more than one location.
9. Chili Rasbora
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more
Chili Rasboras are small fish with thin bodies. Although they are very peaceful fish and require a group of at least 10 fish to school, this species is exceptionally appealing. These fish’s crimson hue contrasts beautifully with powder blue dwarf gouramis.
Dwarf Gouramis and Chili Rasboras require the same sort of water. Therefore, they go along perfectly. The origin of this fish is Southeast Asia, which explains why their requirements for conditions are so similar.
10. Zebra Danios
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name: Danio rerio
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
pH: 7.0 to 7.8
Water Temperature: 64. 75 °F
Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more
The Zebra Danio fish are small fish that only gets to be approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long. Although it is mostly calm, I have seen enough aggressiveness to classify it as mildly hostile as opposed to serene.
It is a schooling fish that is more prone to act aggressively when there are fewer tank mates.
The Siamese Fighting Fish has been known to be attacked by a school of Zebra Fish, therefore, I would stay away from slow-moving fish with long fins around Zebra Fish.
White Cloud Mountain Minnows, the majority of tetras, including Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, tiny Goldfish, Dwarf Gourami, and other fish species of comparable size are all good tank mates for zebrafish.
11. Rainbowfish
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name: Melanotaeniidae
Adult Size: 4.7 inches
pH: 7.0 to 8.0
Water Temperature: 74° and 78° F
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6
There is a solid reason why rainbow fish are adored in the aquarium hobby all around the world. These fish are serene and lovely. They are freshwater fish that have their roots in Southeast Asia and Australia.
Rainbow tropical fish are not only attractive, but they also get along well with many different aquarium freshwater fish species.
Finding tropical freshwater fish that get along with rainbow fish is frequently a challenge; even tetras have a reputation for occasionally biting fins. Guppies, angel fish, rasboras, and loaches are some other fish that are similarly unconcerned. They are incredibly patient creatures who are also rather hardy, which makes them a good tank mate for Dwarf Gourami as well.
12. Otocinclus Catfish
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
The Dwarf Suckermouth Catfish, also known as the Otocinclus Catfish, is one of the most popular algae-eating fish for small aquariums, but they do have certain possible issues that are important to be aware of before purchasing.
At first, they is challenging to keep as they are captured from the wild. Unfortunately, pet shops and distributors frequently treat them poorly. The poor tiny oto cats are underfed and may be nearly dead by the time they reach a display tank in a store.
The active and healthy Oto cats must be kept in groups of at least five.
The Kuhli loach belongs to the family Cobitidae. They are also known as Pangio kuhli or Acanthophthalmus kuhli. Kuhli loach are native to Indonesia. You can also find them in Singapore, Malaysia, Borneo, and Java.
The bodies of kuhli loaches are long and eel-like without scales. They frequently have bands down the length of their bodies that alternate between light and dark colors. They resemble a snake more than a fish because of the way the form and color bands combine. Kuhli loach is a bottom dweller and unquestionably one of the aquarium’s most intriguing additions.
14. Glass Catfish (Ghost Fish)
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
Scientific Name: Kryptopterus vitreolus
Adult Size: 3.1 inches
pH: 6.6 – 7.5
Water Temperature: 77°F
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
Recommended School Size: Group of at least 5 or more
Even though Glass Catfish is mainly a predator, it goes along with other fish as long as they are not in its very small mouth. While any reasonably sized adult fish, including tiny Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Green Neon Tetras, and Dwarf Gourami are safe, they will undoubtedly consume newborn fish.
Others that make good aquarium mates are Diamond Tetras, Splashing Tetras, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Cherry Barbs, Penguin Tetras, Pristella Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Red Eye Tetras, Silvertip Tetras, Gold Barbs, Rummy Nose Tetras, Scissortail Rasboras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Swordtails.
15. Amano Shrimp
Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.
When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!
If you’re keen on keeping shrimps in your aquarium, Amano shrimp is a good tank mate for Dwarf Gourami.
Amanos are too big to fit in a dwarf gouramis mouth. Thus, eating shrimp becomes too challenging for your Dwarf Gouramis.
Also, Amano Shrimps are really good at getting out of the way quickly if they have to.
Amanos hide a lot and they seem more aware of where they go and how they move. Additionally, dwarf gouramis don’t really hunt and attack like that so there are fewer chances of accidents.
Mark’s Pick: Corydoras catfish and small tetras (neon tetras, ember tetras) that share soft, slightly acidic water. Gouramis are mid-to-surface fish; bottom dwellers and small schoolers that occupy different zones won’t provoke their territorial instincts.
FAQs
What fish live well with this type of fish?
Dwarf Gourami goes well with small, peaceful fish that don’t attack or bully them. Dwarf gouramis don’t become that big, as their name suggests.
They are also rather timid, even though they occasionally display aggression toward other males of the same species.
The ideal tank mates are: Neon tetra Cardinal tetra Harlequin Rasbora Glass catfish Amano shrimp Zebra danios
Can they live with other fish?
Yes, even though Dwarf gourami is not schooling fish, if given adequate space, certain species is housed alongside another gourami of the same sort. They are territorial toward other Anabantoids, but if each has adequate space for a territory, they may cohabit happily.
Are they aggressive?
In contrast to the much bigger regular gourami, which may become aggressive, dwarf gouramis are mostly docile fish. Dwarf gouramis thrive in most community aquariums and get along well with most species, including Tetras, Mollies, Ghost Catfish, Platies, and Plecostomus.
Can they go in a community tank?
The dwarf gourami, a small freshwater fish with vivid colors, is a great addition to the community tank. The dwarf gourami is the ideal community fish if you want a fish that gets along well with other peaceful species.
How many gouramis should be together?
Dwarf Gourami is not schooling fish but thrives in a community of at least ten other fish. As a result, trying to keep them in a smaller tank prevents them from having enough space to swim around and learn. They need some open swimming places but will happily weave in and out of heavily planted regions.
Are they good with other fish?
Yes, Dwarf Gourami are good with many fish species such as Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, ghost fish, Ghost shrimp, Amano shrimp, and other suitable tank mates.
How big do they get?
Dwarf Gourami fish species may grow to a maximum length of 8.8 cm (3.5 in). In the wild, male dwarf gouramis have diagonal stripes that alternate between blue and red hues; females are silvery in appearance.
Who Is This Setup Right For?
Good Fit If:
You want a peaceful planted community tank with soft, slightly acidic water (pH 6.5–7.0)
You keep one male gourami only, no other male gouramis or similarly shaped fish
You have small, non-aggressive species that won’t stress the gourami or compete for the surface layer
You want a centerpiece fish that can coexist peacefully with active schooling fish
Avoid If:
You want to keep multiple male dwarf gouramis, they will fight to the death
You keep fin-nipping species, a gourami under attack will stop eating and decline rapidly
You have hard, alkaline water that doesn’t suit their preferred parameters
You want an active, boisterous community, gouramis need calmer conditions and tank mates
Final Thoughts
Dwarf Gouramis are docile, friendly freshwater fish that shouldn’t be kept with any larger, more aggressive fish. They also shouldn’t be housed with fish that reproduce and become territorial, such as cichlids, as these fish would pester the gourami nonstop while guarding their young.
When needed, hiding spaces will be established because they are frequently territorial among one another.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
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Dwarf Chain Loach” class=”wp-image-1061557″/>
Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-551860″/>
Green Terror Cichlid in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-545177″/>
