Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Bamboo Shrimp Care Guide: The Filter-Feeding Shrimp That’s Worth Watching

Bamboo Shrimp are filter feeders, not scavengers. They need current and suspended food particles to survive. If your shrimp is walking the substrate picking at food, it is starving.

A bamboo shrimp walking the bottom is not getting enough food. Fix the flow.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Bamboo Shrimp

A shrimp tank is a constant show of activity. Shrimp graze nonstop, picking at every surface with their tiny legs. They crawl over plants, substrate, and even each other. The movement never stops.

Molting is both fascinating and nerve-wracking. You will find translucent shed exoskeletons and panic thinking a shrimp died. It did not. But failed molts, where a shrimp gets stuck in its old shell, are always a risk.

Berried females carrying eggs under their tails are a highlight. You watch the eggs develop over two to three weeks, then suddenly dozens of tiny baby shrimp appear on your moss and plants.

Shrimp are escape artists during water changes. They jump into buckets, climb up siphon tubes, and end up in places you never expected. Always check your equipment and waste water for hitchhikers.

The Bamboo Shrimp is one of the most rewarding invertebrates in the hobby, but it is also one of the most sensitive. Water parameters matter more here than with almost any fish. After keeping shrimp colonies for years, I have learned exactly what makes or breaks a thriving colony.

One parameter swing and an entire colony dies overnight. That is the reality of keeping Bamboo Shrimp.

A Bamboo Shrimp colony demands stable parameters every single day. One slip and you start over. This is a commitment to precision, not just maintenance.

Shrimp keeping is the most humbling branch of the aquarium hobby. The water does not care about your experience level.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Bamboo Shrimp

Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Bamboo Shrimp without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Bamboo Shrimp are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

The Reality of Keeping Bamboo Shrimp

Water parameters rule everything. Shrimp are more sensitive to water chemistry than any fish in your tank. Ammonia, nitrite, and sudden pH swings kill shrimp instantly. A cycled, stable tank is absolutely mandatory before adding your first shrimp.

Copper is lethal. Many fish medications contain copper. Even trace amounts from pipes, fertilizers, or treatments will wipe out an entire shrimp colony. Read every label before adding anything to a shrimp tank.

Molting problems are the most common killer. Shrimp need consistent mineral content to molt successfully. Unstable GH and KH levels cause failed molts, which are fatal. Remineralized RO water gives you the most control.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Adding shrimp to an uncycled tank or a tank that was recently medicated. Both scenarios kill shrimp within days. The tank needs to be fully cycled and medication-free for at least two weeks before shrimp go in.

Expert Take

Drip acclimation is not a suggestion. It is mandatory. Every shrimp I have lost in 25 years died because I rushed the acclimation or ignored a parameter difference.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are bamboo shrimp hard to keep?

Bamboo shrimp are moderate in difficulty. The main challenge is ensuring they get enough food, since they are filter feeders that catch fine particles from the water column. A tank with good flow and regular feeding of powdered foods or crushed flakes is essential for their survival.

Why is my bamboo shrimp picking at the substrate?

When a bamboo shrimp is picking at the substrate instead of fan feeding in the current, it means there is not enough food in the water column. This is a sign of hunger and stress. Try increasing your feeding of finely crushed foods or adding a dedicated liquid invertebrate food.

How big do bamboo shrimp get?

Bamboo shrimp can reach 3 to 4 inches in length, making them one of the largest freshwater shrimp commonly kept in aquariums. Their size and unique fan-feeding behavior make them an impressive display animal in planted community tanks.

Can bamboo shrimp live with bettas?

Bamboo shrimp can coexist with bettas in tanks of 20 gallons or larger. Their large size makes them unlikely targets for betta aggression. However, both species prefer different flow levels: bamboo shrimp need moderate current for feeding, while bettas prefer calmer water.

How long do bamboo shrimp live?

With proper care and consistent feeding, bamboo shrimp can live 4 to 6 years in captivity. They molt regularly as they grow, and providing calcium-rich water helps ensure healthy exoskeleton development. Poor nutrition is the most common cause of premature death.

Key Takeaways

Bamboo shrimp are an interesting freshwater species of filter-feeding shrimp.
These shrimp have simple aquarium requirements but is sensitive when being transported.
Bamboo shrimp are very difficult to breed in captivity and have a short lifespan. They are reasonably more expensive than most other species available.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Atyopsis moluccensis
Common Names	Bamboo shrimp, wood shrimp, Moluccas shrimp, Singapore flower shrimp, Singapore shrimp
Family	Atyidae
Origin	Native to Southeast Asia
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	1 to 3 years
Temperament	Peaceful fish
Tank Level	Middle and bottom
Minimum Tank Size	20 gallons
Temperature Range	68. 85 °F
Water Hardness	3. 10 KH
pH Range	6.5. 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to high
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed	Very difficul
Compatibility	Community
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Phylum	Arthropoda
Class	Malacostraca
Order	Decapoda
Family	Atyidae
Genus	Atyopsis
Species	A. Moluccensis (De Haan, 1849)

Introduction

Many hobbyists adore saltwater aquariums for their bright and colorful fish. But have you ever seen a freshwater tank filled with vibrant and active shrimp? The freshwater hobby is filled with different shrimp species that are easy and rewarding to keep.

One of the most popular species of freshwater shrimp to keep is the bamboo shrimp, also commonly known as the Singapore shrimp or wood shrimp. Scientifically, the bamboo shrimp is known as Atyopsis moluccensis. Unlike other popular species of freshwater shrimp, the bamboo shrimp is not a dwarf species in itself, though a dwarf relative has been discovered: Atyopsis spinipes¹.

Bamboo shrimp are great shrimp to keep in the freshwater aquarium. They get along with almost every fish, are relatively hardy, and help keep the tank clean. They aren’t the most colorful species of freshwater shrimp available, though, which can make experienced keepers look past them.

Origin

It is hard to believe, but bamboo shrimp originate from areas where bamboo naturally grows. This is largely throughout Southeast Asia, including parts of Thailand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines.

There, these shrimp feed on plant and animal particles in the water column as well as in the substrate. Interestingly this is an Asian filter-feeding shrimp. This means that these shrimp have specially adapted claspers with a feathery, fan-like appearance. This allows them to stand in a moderate to strong water current with their fans pointed outwards to catch anything that passes by.

Because they’re filter feeders, they are found in a warm, fast-moving natural habitat that is full of debris and other organic material.

Appearance

Bamboo shrimp aka flower shrimp aren’t the most colorful shrimp. There’s a reason why they’re also known as wood shrimp.

Bamboo shrimp are one of the largest freshwater aquarium shrimp available, growing to about 2 to 4 inches. They are bulky shrimp with large, rounded bodies. As fan shrimp, they have two pairs of feathery arms that help them pull food particles out of the water.

These shrimp are brownish-red but can become darker or lighter depending on available food and other environmental factors. Upon closer inspection, you can see many thin, dark pinstripes run along the sides of their body. Down the middle of their body is a thick off-white stripe that runs from their antennae to the base of their tails.

Male vs. Female

Bamboo shrimp are pretty costly. Considering that they only live for a couple of years, it is expensive to replace your colony so often. Because of this, many shrimp keepers try breeding bamboo shrimp, though we’ll find out that this is a challenge in itself.

To breed bamboo shrimp, you need to have a male and female individual. These shrimp are easy to tell apart from each other, but only when they’re mature in size.

Like other shrimp and crustaceans, you need to look at the abdomen of the shrimp. Female shrimp carry eggs in and around their pleopods, or swimming legs, underneath their abdomen, so this area needs to be big.

In general, males are larger than females. Males also have bigger, thicker first walking legs. From above, male bamboo shrimp are slimmer and shorter than females. Females have wider and longer abdomens, as well as longer pleopods.

Temperament and Behavior

Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

Bamboo shrimp are perfect tank mates for a community tank setup. Their larger size also makes them compatible with some of the bigger tropical fish species available as long as temperaments match.

Despite their large size, they is shy with sudden movements and bright lights. It may take several weeks for a new shrimp to acclimate to its new home, so make sure to add plenty of hiding spots in the beginning.

In general, this fan shrimp can safely be kept with all community fish species. They spend most of their time propped up on plant leaves or other aquarium decorations in the water current with their fans extended. If your fan shrimp is traveling to the bottom of the tank to look for food in the substrate, then this could indicate that there isn’t enough available food in the water column.

While a healthy bamboo shrimp may still display this behavior, it’s strongly recommended to start offering more available foods that make feeding easier.

Bamboo Shrimp Tank Mates

Not too many hobbyists have a shrimp tank that only features bamboo shrimp. This shrimp species is often an afterthought to a community tank featuring other tropical fish and invertebrates. Luckily, they fit in with almost every tank mate combination!

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Bamboo shrimp are not territorial towards each other or other shrimp. That being said, there are a few limiting factors that can stop you from keeping multiple bamboo shrimp together.

First, space can become an issue. Not for the reason you may think, though. Instead, bamboo shrimp are very efficient filter feeders that can clean available food particles out of the water column within a few days. This can lead to a shortage of food when there is too much competition.

Second, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. Though they’re not aggressive, they can add additional bioload to the aquarium that can add up over time.

In general, as long as your shrimp are easily able to find food and have good filtration, then you can keep as many as you would like together.

Best Tank Mates For Them

But what other shrimp and fish can you keep with your bamboo shrimp? Almost everything!

The good news is that bamboo shrimp are large freshwater shrimp. Most tropical fish have small mouths, which takes bamboo shrimp off the menu. This makes bamboo shrimp a great choice for a betta tank, though you will need to create some areas of higher flow in the aquarium that your betta might not appreciate!

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These shrimp keep to themselves in the aquarium and won’t bother other peaceful fish. Because they perch on live plants and other decorations, they also stay out of the way of bottomfeeders and other active species. Some of the best tank mates for bamboo shrimp are:

Can They Live With Other Shrimp?

Yes! Bamboo shrimp can live with other freshwater shrimp, specifically dwarf shrimp species. Because these shrimp aren’t the most colorful on their own, many hobbyists keep them with cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) and vampire shrimp (Atya gabonensis). Other less colorful tank mates include Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata) and ghost shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus).

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Although large shrimp, bamboo shrimp are still an appetizing choice for fish with large mouths. Fish that should be avoid are:

Cichlids (including angelfish)
Goldfish
Territorial aggressive fish

It should also be noted that bamboo shrimp should not be kept with crayfish, like the Mexican dwarf crayfish (Cambarellus patzcuarensis). Even though these two invertebrates might look similar to one another, the crayfish will gladly eat your shrimp.

Care

Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

Bamboo shrimp care is easy, but there are a few ways you can guarantee the success of your shrimp. These shrimp only live a couple of years on average, so you want to make the most of it! They are also much more expensive than other shrimp in the aquarium trade.

Are They Hard To Keep?

Bamboo shrimp aren’t one of the hardiest shrimp varieties available. They are susceptible to incorrect or fluctuating water parameters, which can make transferring them between different freshwater aquariums difficult. Your shrimp is most likely to die within the first few days of having it in your tank.

To prevent this from happening, it’s strongly recommended to use a quarantine system that gives full control over tank conditions. Purchase from a reputable seller that keeps juvenile shrimp so that you get the most time with your new invertebrate.

Is the Bamboo Shrimp Right for You?

Before you buy a Bamboo Shrimp, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.

Experience level: Bamboo Shrimp are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
Temperament considerations: Bamboo Shrimp is territorial or aggressive. You need to plan tank mates carefully and provide enough space and cover to reduce conflict. They are not a good fit for peaceful community tanks with small, shy fish.
Feeding requirements: Bamboo Shrimp are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
Water type: This is a saltwater species. You need a fully cycled marine setup with proper salinity, filtration, and water chemistry. Saltwater tanks are more expensive and demanding than freshwater, so factor that into your decision.
Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.

Tank Requirements

The best bamboo shrimp care will stem from a good aquarium setup. These shrimp need a mature aquarium where they can feed on the fine particles and microorganisms already present in the water column.

A new tank setup is too clean and will need to be heavily fed to sustain your shrimp.

Tank Size

You’ve most likely seen a small tank filled with cherry shrimp at your local fish store. Since bamboo shrimp are similar to other shrimp species, does this mean that they is kept in a small tank too?

No. Bamboo shrimp prefer a larger tank setup for a few reasons.

First, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. While they don’t move around the tank much, they create significantly more bioload than small shrimp. They may also struggle to be present in the tank if there are too many other shrimp occupying the space.

Another reason why bamboo shrimp need a larger tank is that they heavily depend on their natural habitat for food. These shrimp need plenty of available food in the water column for their success. A small tank has much less available food, which can cause your shrimp to quickly run out of things to eat.

How Many Can You Put In A 55 Gallon Tank?

There are a lot of factors that go into determining how many bamboo shrimp you can have in your tank. In theory, a 55 gallon could hold a lot of shrimp! But this probably isn’t the best option.

Consider how much natural food is available in your aquarium. Is there a constant supply of plant debris? How often do you feed your fish? Are your shrimp competing for the same food as other fish or invertebrates?

There are some questions you should be asking yourself before you introduce multiple bamboo shrimp into your aquarium. That being said, it’s recommended to keep 1 bamboo shrimp per every 20 gallons of water. This would mean that about 2 to 3 bamboo shrimp could comfortably be kept in a 55 gallon aquarium.

Setup

Aquarium setup doesn’t matter too much when keeping bamboo shrimp as they’ll find their niche within the system. However, there are a few ways you can optimize your shrimp’s way of living.

One of the most important aspects of keeping bamboo shrimp is making sure that there is some water current moving throughout the aquarium. These shrimp come from naturally fast-moving waters where they stand in the current to filter food. Experienced keepers use their filter return or a powerhead to create a stream of water current specifically for their shrimp.

A powerhead pairs well with a sponge filter. This combination allows for water flow as well as a bioload station for bamboo shrimp to pick at if they don’t feel like catching their food.

Otherwise, bamboo shrimp do not need any special aquarium setup. I prefer to dim their lighting or use tannins to create a more comfortable environment for these shy shrimp.

Decor

Bamboo shrimp do best in a heavily planted aquarium where there are plenty of organics available in the water. This is a high or low tech setup with varying lighting intensities; as mentioned before, bamboo shrimp are more present in dimmer lighting.

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These shrimp will appreciate natural decor in the form of driftwood, smooth rocks, and leaf litter. However, they can also be kept in more artificial setups as well.

Substrate

The type of substrate you keep your bamboo shrimp on doesn’t matter too much. These shrimp stay off the substrate, staying perched on driftwood and aquarium plants.

For the most natural tank setup, a light or dark brown substrate is recommended.

Live Plants

Bamboo shrimp will greatly appreciate an assortment of live plants. These shrimp will make their home in dense vegetation, catching any food that happens to pass by. Plant matter will also enter the water column, providing additional food for your shrimp.

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These do not need to be difficult plant species as the coverage will be appreciated nonetheless. Some of the best plant species include:

Anubias spp.
Cryptocoryne spp.
Java fern (Leptochilus pteropus)
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana)

A densely planted aquarium might require dosing plant fertilizers if not enough nutrients are readily available for growth.

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Water Quality And Filtration

Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

Bamboo shrimp are relatively hardy shrimp but they still require mature tank conditions. Good filtration and water circulation are necessary for keeping a happy and healthy bamboo shrimp.

Filtration & Aeration

As mentioned before, bamboo shrimp will do best with a sponge filter in combination with a powerhead. This creates an area for grazing around the filter while also making a current that your shrimp can stand in.

For larger tanks, a hang on the back filter or canister filter is recommended for better filtration and water movement. A powerhead may still be necessary to create areas of higher flow for your shrimp.

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An air stone is not necessary, though can help circulate water and nutrients.

Water Parameters

Bamboo shrimp are sensitive to imperfect water parameters. They cannot tolerate any traces of ammonia or nitrite and start to have trouble when nitrates exceed 20 ppm. They is kept in a wide water temperature range between 68 and 85° F but prefer relatively neutral pH levels between 6.5 and 8.0.

One of the more important water parameters to be aware of is calcium. Freshwater shrimp go through the molting process about every month and a half. This is when they shed their old exoskeleton to grow.

To grow a new shell, they need plenty of calcium available in the water. While this is brought in through water changes and diet, bamboo shrimp may be given special shrimp calcium blocks from time to time.

Aquarium Maintenance

Aquarium maintenance for bamboo shrimp is straightforward, especially in a mature tank where parameters are stable. In general, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly water change is recommended for a moderately stocked freshwater aquarium. Bamboo shrimp prefer slightly ‘dirtier’ conditions where food is available in the water column, so experienced keepers only do water changes every other week or once a month.

When performing a water change, make sure to use an aquarium vacuum to remove any rotting food or plant matter.

Testing Tank Conditions

To ensure that your tank is always running the best that it can, regularly test your aquarium water with a dependable test kit. This test kit should use liquid reagants as testing strips are highly inaccurate.

Calcium should also be tested with a test kit.

Food And Diet

While most shrimp is maintained through only the leftover fish food in the aquarium, bamboo shrimp require some special care and attention when it comes to their food and diet.

Don’t worry, though! Bamboo shrimp feeding doesn’t require too much extra time.

If you notice that your shrimp is searching around sponge filters or wandering around the substrate, there is a lack of food. At this point, it’s strongly recommended to supplement feedings.

Powdered food, crushed fish food, broken-up algae wafers, and small live food may be given daily.

Bamboo shrimp will not fix an algae problem, meaning that they won’t graze on available algae. Instead, they’ll help purify the water of any microscopic waste or organisms that could lead to an algae bloom.

Breeding

Breeding bamboo shrimp is rarely done in the aquarium hobby. Like Amano shrimp, bamboo shrimp need brackish water during their larval stages.

To go about breeding bamboo shrimp, you need a male and a female. Once successfully bred, the fertilized eggs must be gently detached from the female and moved to brackish water conditions. From there, the fry may be fed spirulina powder until they mature.

Where To Buy

Bamboo shrimp are pretty expensive. Their sensitivity to stresses during transportation also makes them slightly difficult to come across at your average pet store. Because they’re difficult to breed in captivity, they also can’t be sourced from fellow hobbyists.

Instead, these shrimp is purchased online or from more specialized retailers.

Conclusion

In conclusion, bamboo shrimp are one of the more forgotten species of shrimp available. These are filter feeding shrimp that need a good source of food in a mature aquarium setup. They are slightly sensitive to changes in environment and water conditions and have short lifespans.

Still, they’re great invertebrates to have for controlling excess waste and potential algae blooms!

April 20, 2023

German Blue Ram Care Guide: The Most Beautiful Dwarf Cichlid (That’s Not for Beginners)

Species Overview
Classification
Brief Introduction
Origin & Habitat
Appearance
Food & Diet
Temperament and Behavior
German Blue Ram Tank Mates
Complete Care Guide
Breeding
Fish Diseases
FAQs
Final Thoughts

German Blue Rams are the most beautiful dwarf cichlid in freshwater fishkeeping. They are also one of the most frequently killed. Most people do not lose them because they got unlucky. They lose them because their tank was not stable enough, their water was not warm enough, or they added them too early. I have kept these fish on and off for over 20 years, and I still treat every new batch like a test of whether my tank is actually dialed in. If your setup is not rock solid, this fish will die. It is that simple.

If you are willing to meet their demands, a pair of German Blue Rams in a well planted tank is one of the most stunning setups in the hobby. But if you cut corners, they will punish you for it. This guide is the honest version of GBR care. Not the watered down one you will find everywhere else.

German Blue Rams do not tolerate mistakes. They expose them.

If your tank cannot hold a steady 82 to 84 degrees with zero ammonia and minimal nitrates, you are not ready for this fish. That is not gatekeeping. That is just the reality of keeping a species this sensitive.

The German Blue Ram is proof that beauty and difficulty are directly proportional in fishkeeping.

German Blue Rams only live 2 to 4 years, but those years demand pristine water quality, consistent temperatures above 82F, and a level of attention most keepers are not ready to provide.

No other freshwater fish packs this much color into this small a body. And no other fish punishes sloppy husbandry this fast.

Why Most People Fail With German Blue Rams

I have watched this play out dozens of times. Someone sets up a new tank, cycles it for a few weeks, and then adds a pair of German Blue Rams as their centerpiece fish. Within two weeks, one or both are dead. Here is why it keeps happening.

They add them to tanks that are not mature enough. A cycled tank is not the same as a stable tank. GBRs need established biological filtration, stable pH, and a tank that has been running for at least two to three months with other fish in it. A brand new cycle with zero biofilm and fluctuating parameters will kill them. Not eventually. Within weeks..

The temperature is too low. Most community fish do fine at 76 to 78 degrees. German Blue Rams need 82 to 84. That is not optional and it is not a range you can fudge. If your tank sits at 78, your rams will be sluggish, lose color, and start declining within days. And once a GBR starts going downhill, you rarely get them back..

Water parameter swings kill them fast. A pH swing of even 0.5 in a short period will stress a GBR enough to trigger illness. They are not like hardy cichlids that bounce back from rough conditions. Once a German Blue Ram starts declining, you have a very small window to fix things before you lose the fish.

They pick the wrong tank mates. Anything fast, aggressive, or nippy will stress GBRs into hiding. And a stressed ram is a dead ram. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and most mbuna are automatic disqualifiers. Stick with calm, slow moving species that occupy different levels of the tank.

The Reality of Keeping German Blue Rams

I am not going to sugarcoat this. German Blue Rams are one of the most demanding freshwater fish you can keep. They look incredible, but they are completely unforgiving if your setup is not right.

They crash fast. A healthy GBR can go from vibrant and active to dead in 48 hours if something shifts in the tank. Ammonia spike, temperature drop, pH swing. Any of these triggers a decline that you cannot reverse once it starts. You do not get second chances with this fish. German Blue Rams are a precision fish. They reward perfection and punish everything else.

The temperature requirement limits your tank mate options. At 82 to 84 degrees, you are ruling out a lot of common community fish that prefer cooler water. Cardinals, rummy noses, and sterbai corydoras work. Most other tetras and corydoras do not thrive at those temps long term.

They look amazing when everything is right. A male GBR in full color in a heavily planted tank is one of the most beautiful things in freshwater fishkeeping. But that only happens when water quality is pristine, temperature is locked in, and stress is minimal. One off parameter and the colors fade within days.

Biggest Mistake New German Blue Ram Owners Make

They buy them too early. The fish looks incredible at the store, they impulse buy a pair, and they add them to a tank that has been running for three weeks. The rams are dead within ten days and the owner blames the fish. The fish was not the problem. The tank was not ready.

Expert Take

Never add German Blue Rams to a tank that has been running for less than three months. This is not a suggestion. This is the single rule that separates people who keep GBRs alive from people who keep buying replacements. A cycled tank is not the same as a mature tank. They need established biofilm, stable parameters, and a bacterial colony that can handle their sensitivity. This is the single most important piece of advice I can give you.

Key Takeaways

German blue ram is named after a famous fish collector and importer from Germany known as Manuel Ramirez.
They have spiny rays in their anal, pelvic, pectoral, and dorsal fin to ward off their predators.
German blue ram loves digging up the substrate, so put hardy plants and floating plants in their aquarium
Electric blue ram is an open spawner; i.e., the wild German rams form a family group and lay around 200 eggs in their natural habitat.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
Common Names	German blue ram, blue rams, electric blue rams, Butterfly cichlid
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	Orinoco River basin of South America in the Llanos of Venezuela and Colombia
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate to Difficult
Activity	Medium
Lifespan	3 to 4 years
Temperament	Peaceful fish
Tank Level	All levels
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	78.0 to 85.0° F
Water Hardness	6 – 14 dGH
pH Range	6.0 – 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer/Open spawner
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Limited, Generally small fish with the same temperament
OK, for Planted Tanks?	With Caution

Classification

Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Subfamily	Geophaginae
Genus	Mikrogeophagus
Species	M. ramirezi (Myers & Harry, 1948)

Brief Introduction

The German Blue Ram or Mikrogeophagus ramirezi goes by many names including, German Ram, Electric Blue Rams, Butterfly Cichlid, Golden Ram, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Ramirezi, Ram cichlid, and Ram. The German blue rams are named after Manuel Ramirez¹. one of the first collectors and importers of Ram cichlids in the aquarium trade.

German blue ram is a peaceful fish that can easily be kept in community tanks, even with non-cichlid fish species with a similar temperament. For the record, these fish do not do well in an aggressive fish tank.

Origin & Habitat

Opposed to their name, the German blue rams originated from the Orinoco River basin in Venezuela and Colombia. The reason they are called “German Blue” rams is that the blue variation of Ram cichlids was selectively bred in Germany and became popular from there.

Appearance

The electric blue ram is a small, colorful fish with pointed fins and a tail. Their bodies are oval and the males develop more pointed dorsal fins than female German blue rams.

Starting at their nose, there is a yellow coloration on their body that changes from whitish blue to blue in color. A black curved line runs from their forehead, through their eyes, and reaches down to the chin. Also, the middle part of the body is adorned with a black spot. They have pointed fins that are clear yellow in color with a black blotch. Female Electric blue rams have pinkish-red or orange bellies.

Like all other cichlids, the German blue rams have a full set of pharyngeal teeth located in their throat. They also have spiny rays in their anal, pelvic, pectoral, and dorsal fin to ward off their predators. The front area of their fins is soft, allowing them to move precisely and effortlessly.

Unlike other fish, German blue rams have one nostril on each side of the nose. So, they sense smells in water by sucking in water and expelling it right after it’s sampled.

What is the average adult size?

The Electric blue ram is a small fish, reaching the average size of between 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) in length.

How long do they live?

The average lifespan of German blue ram largely depends on their water conditions, diet, and overall care. Under normal circumstances, German blue rams live around 3 to 4 years, while some individuals may live up to 5 years.

Food & Diet

In their natural habitat, wild German blue rams feed on plant materials and small invertebrates. However, in captivity, they feed on a varied diet, including brine shrimp, bloodworms, white worms, chopped earthworms, cyclopeeze, live mosquito larvae, and artemia. You can also feed them flake food and pellets as occasional treats.

How often to feed them?

you need to to feed two to five small amounts of food once or twice a day to keep the water quality optimal for longer periods.

Temperament and Behavior

Fish owners love German blue rams for their ever pleasing nature and beautiful aesthetics. And rightfully so, German blue rams thrive in community tanks even with their non-cichlid mates. However, they may seem aggressive; they are more “bark than bite”.

You can keep them alone, but you need to to keep them in pairs and avoid putting two males in an aquarium until your tank is exceptionally large.

German Blue Ram Tank Mates

Here are some great tank mates for a German blue ram cichlid tank:

Silver Dollar
Dwarf Gouramis
Discus fish
Dwarf Rainbowfish
Synodontis catfish
Plecostomus
Black Phantom Tetra
Glowlight tetra
Cardinal Tetra
Neon Tetra
Corydoras
Rummynose Tetras
Kuhli loaches
Mollies
Guppies
Clown Loaches
Platies

Complete Care Guide

No matter how low maintenance German blue rams are, the key to keeping your fish happy lies in the water quality. German blue ram cichlids are prone to rapid breathing and illness due to mismatched water chemistry and quality. Therefore, meeting their tank requirements and maintaining the water quality is essential for the survival of German blue rams.

Tank Requirements

Here’s a complete breakdown of ideal tank requirements for the German blue ram cichlids.

Tank Size

Since they are small community aquarium fish, the recommended tank size is around 15 gallons.

Live Plants

Keeping live plants in a German blue ram aquarium sounds daunting because most aquatic plants cannot tolerate the warm water temperature. Therefore, it is essential to get plants that can survive the hot water.

Also, German blue rams love digging and so, they might hurt your aquatic plants. To cater to this, I suggest keeping plants like Java Ferns and mosses. You can also add floating plants, especially to the breeding tank to diffuse the lighting. Some great examples of live plants are:

Java Fern
Rosette plants (Amazon Sword, Vallisneria, Wisteria)
Mosses
Anubias
Cryptocoryne
Water sprite

Make sure to leave free swimming space while placing plants in their aquarium and install a proper filtration system for their successful survival.

Tank Decorations

German blue Rams love a well decorated tank. And even though they thrive in a community aquarium, sometimes, they might need to find a safe, comfortable place to hide. Therefore, aquarium decorations should be provided with caution.

You can equip their tank with driftwood, flowerpots, dense plant clusters, caves, and rocks to mimic their natural habitat and keep them happy.

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Make sure all the decorations are the aquarium and fish-friendly with no sharp edges to create a healthy and stimulating environment.

Substrate

A substrate of fine sand mixed with gravel and granite pebbles works best for a German blue ram tank. That’s because sand mixed with gravel allows your fish to sift through it, which is a natural behavior for them in the wild.

Additionally, you can go for plant substrate or bare bottom as per your preferences and tank requirements.

Note: Make sure your substrate does not leech into the water and change the pH. Avoid using sand for marine tanks

Is the German Blue Ram Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

One of the most beautiful freshwater fish alive. A healthy, fully colored German blue ram is genuinely stunning. the iridescent blue and gold are unmatched.
Not for beginners. I can’t emphasize this enough. If you haven’t successfully kept other sensitive fish, you’re not ready for this one.
Temperature is non-negotiable. 82-84°F minimum. This limits your tank mate options to species that also thrive in warm water.
Perfect for warm, soft-water planted tanks. If you already run a planted tank with CO2 and acidic water, German blue rams feel right at home.
Buy from reputable breeders, not chain stores. Locally bred rams from a quality breeder are significantly hardier than mass-produced imports.
Short lifespan even with perfect care. 2-3 years is typical, which feels short given the effort required to keep them healthy.

Filtration and Aeration

Maintaining Oxygen levels and water quality leads to a happy, healthy tank with a thriving German blue ram.

German blue ram, like any other fish loves a clean and clear environment with low nitrates, ammonia, and zero nitrites. Therefore, a filter that can handle all these toxins and the size of your aquarium is much needed.

I recommend getting a canister filter for a larger tank. However, for a 10-gallon tank, a hang-on filter works wonders. I also suggest installing a filter with a biological filtration system to break down harmful chemicals and waste substances in the water effortlessly.

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For aeration, you need to to provide an air stone or bubble wand to create the flow of bubbles. To save yourself money and time, you can get a filter integrated with an air pump to help aerate the water besides filtering.

Water Parameters

The ideal water parameters for German blue Ram are:

Recommended temperature range: 78.0 to 85.0° F
Breeding Temperature:– 77 – 82.4° F
Ideal pH range: 6.0-7.5
Water Hardness Range:6 – 14 dGH

Aquarium Care

I recommend performing water changes of 10% to 20% at least biweekly, depending on the number of fish and tank size. German blue ram is super sensitive to certain chemicals and changes in their environment to the point of their sudden demise.

Also, they are prone to fish tuberculosis or Piscine. Therefore, aquarium maintenance is the key to keeping them healthy and happy. I also advise cleaning and sanitizing their tank decorations and other stuff with a sponge. It is also recommended to vacuum the substrate to remove the waste and all the food.

Breeding

Before setting up a breeding tank, it is important to know that the German blue ram is an open spawner; i.e., the wild German blue rams form a family group and lay around 200 eggs in their natural habitat.

Therefore, in captivity, start with 6 juveniles and let them bond. After they have bonded successfully, move the breeding pair to their own respective tanks.

Requirements for a breeding tank

The ideal water temperature for a breeding tank is around 77 – 82.4° F. They prefer slightly acidic and soft water.
Provide quiet areas for them as they are usually nervous and may end up eating their own eggs if stressed, Also, provide lots of hiding places such as caves and plants, especially wide leaves to spawn on.
you need to to tape the sides of your tank with a taping paper to alleviate stress.

The breeding process

Before spawning, the breeding pair usually spend lots of time cleaning the top of pebbles. After they are comfortable and spawned, the female German blue ram lays around 200 eggs and the male ram cichlid fertilizes them externally. Once they have successfully spawned, you will notice the colors of the pair have intensified drastically.

After 60 hours, the eggs hatch, and just after a few days, the fry will be swimming freely.

Note: German blue ram are known to eat their own fry after hatching, thus, you may put the young ones into a separate tank

Once the fry is free swimming, the male ram takes them into its mouth to clean and then spits them out.

After the yolk sac has disappeared, you can feed the fry micro worm or infusoria. You can also feed them newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

Always remember to maintain the water quality while feeding the fry. you need to to perform 10% water changes every day.

Fish Diseases

Despite being hardy fish, the German blue ram is vulnerable to poor water quality and oxygenation. Hence, resulting in several fish diseases.

One of the most common problems is Ich, which is caused by parasitic infestations from protozoa or worms. Other common diseases include:

Costia disease
Flatworms
Cestoda or tapeworm infestations
Bacterial infections and diseases
Fish tuberculosis
Skin flukes

FAQs

Are German blue Rams difficult to keep?

No, they are moderately easy and not difficult to keep. Still, not recommended for beginners because they demand top-notch water quality and they are very sensitive to certain chemicals and water changes that might pose a challenge to beginner aquarists.

Are German blue rams schooling fish?

No, they are not schooling fish but like to be in pairs or small groups of 6 individuals mainly. They is territorial, especially while breeding, and may show aggression towards other fish. Therefore, it is important to provide them with lots of hiding places and plants to rest on and reduce stress, and aggression.

What is the difference between a blue ram and a German Blue Ram?

There is absolutely no difference between a blue ram and a German blue ram. Both of the names are given to the same species, “Mikrogeophagus ramirezi”. The blue ram cichlid or a German blue ram is a name given to the same species of blue color morph which is a small and peaceful fish found in the streams of Venezuela and Colombia.

Do German blue rams need caves?

Yes, the German blue ram needs lots of hiding places to alleviate the stress and reduce aggression towards other fish. Therefore, caves, rocks, and aquatic plants are essential for their survival.

Are the German Rams hard to keep?

Yes – they are very demanding of their water quality and tank requirements. Therefore, a novice fish keeper might not be able to keep them.

What is the lifespan of a German ram?

German blue rams typically have a life expectancy of 3 to 4 years, while some may reach 5 years. The water quality, nutrition, and general care of German blue rams all affect how long they live on average.

How big do blue ram cichlids get?

The usual size of the electric blue ram is between 2-2.5 inches (5. 6 cm), making it a small fish.

What It Is Actually Like Living With German Blue Rams

When everything is dialed in, German Blue Rams are mesmerizing. Here is what the day to day actually looks like.

They own the bottom of the tank. A pair of GBRs will claim a territory around a cave or flat rock and patrol it constantly. They are not aggressive about it the way mbuna are, but they make it very clear that this is their spot. Other fish learn to stay away.

The color changes tell you everything. A happy, healthy GBR is electric. Deep blues, bright yellows, vivid black markings. When something is off, the colors wash out almost immediately. You learn to read your ram like a dashboard. If the color fades, something in the tank needs attention right now.

Breeding behavior is fascinating. If you get a bonded pair, watching them clean a spawning site, lay eggs, and guard fry together is one of the best things in the hobby. They are attentive parents when conditions are right. Most first attempts fail, but when it clicks, it is incredibly rewarding.

You will check on them constantly. More than any other fish I have kept, GBRs make you pay attention. You will find yourself walking by the tank just to confirm they are still active and colorful. That is not anxiety. That is just what happens when you keep a fish this responsive to its environment.

How the German Blue Ram Compares to Similar Species

The Bolivian ram is the comparison every German blue ram buyer needs to make honestly. Bolivian rams are hardier, tolerate temperatures from 72-79°F, handle a wider pH range, and live longer (4-5 years vs. 2-3 for German blue rams). They’re not as spectacularly colored, but they’re still attractive fish with great personality. If I had to recommend one ram species to someone who’d never kept dwarf cichlids, it would be the Bolivian ram every single time. Save the German blue ram for after you’ve proven you can maintain stable warm, soft water conditions.

The cockatoo dwarf cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides) is another excellent comparison. Cockatoos are hardier than German blue rams, tolerate a wider range of conditions, and males are incredibly flashy with their extended dorsal fins. They also breed more readily in captivity. The cockatoo is my recommendation for anyone who wants a colorful dwarf cichlid with breeding potential but isn’t ready for the demands of a German blue ram.

Final Thoughts

German blue rams or electric blue rams are beautiful freshwater fish with a peaceful temperament. However, they are not beginner friendly and require some exceptional care in pristine water conditions.

If not taken care of properly, the fish might show signs of stress and illness, eventually leading to their death. Therefore, proper tank maintenance and tank setup should be exercised to avoid accidents.

April 18, 2023

15 Freshwater Crabs for Your Aquarium (Honest Notes on Every Species)

I’ve kept a lot of different crabs over the years. red claws, vampires, fiddler crabs. and one thing I’ll tell you right upfront is that the “freshwater crab” label is misleading for a lot of species you’ll find at the fish store. Many of them are actually brackish water animals that technically survive in freshwater but don’t truly thrive long-term. Knowing that distinction before you buy will save you a lot of frustration and some dead crabs.

That said, there are some genuinely great options that work well in freshwater setups, and others that make amazing paludarium inhabitants. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are the species worth keeping. with honest notes on what the care labels don’t always tell you.

In this article I’m talking about freshwater crab, crabs that are thousands of times smaller than any salt water crab you’ve seen, or eaten. And while some people in various parts of the world do actually eat these freshwater crabs as well, more and more they’re finding their way into the aquarium hobby trade.

Key Takeaways

Most freshwater crab are two inches or less fully grown
Many species are easy to keep and even breed
There is a huge variety of colors and sizes with almost 2000 species

Top 15 Freshwater Crabs

Let’s start off our list with a video from our YouTube channel. We will break down both aquatic and territerisal crabs that you can keep in an aquarium. We will include important states like tank size, scientific name, average size, and lifespan for each crab species. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos that we release each week. Let’s get started!

1. Vampire (Geosesarma dennerle)

Family: Sesarmidae
Origin: Indonesian island of Java
Scientific Name: Geosesarma dennerle
Common Name: Vampire Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 1.5 inches (3.8 cm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years in captivity
Tank Size: 10-gallons
Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
Tank kH: 10-25 dKH

The vampire crab is a semi terrestrial species meaning your tank will need to include a dry spot for them to roam and forage on since these type of crab can actually drown if they don’t have a dry area. A 2/3 land to 1/3 water is a good ratio and they only require freshwater. Sand or fine non-sharp pebbles makes the best substrate with a few mossy areas for them to poke around in.

Their carapace (shell width) is only about an inch wide and with their legs they rarely grow to to two inches fully grown. These beautiful crabs boast striking coloration that includes deep reds, purples and blues and are a recent addition to the aquarium trade. Most of the 50 plus species also have bright yellow eyes and paired with their coloration so it’s easy to see why they’re called vampire crabs.

But don’t let their name fool you, vampire crabs are a delight to keep and form social groups if you include a few of them, although they are not very active. A 10 gallon tank is adequate for 5 to 6 of them and they’re opportunistic feeders, so they’ll eat about anything including any plants you have.

For a different colored variation of the Vampire crab, check out the closely related bright orange Red devil crab (Geosesarma Hagen).

2. Thai Micro (Limnopilos naiyanetri)

Family: Hymenosomatidae
Origin: Thailand. only one river is known to have these, Tha Chin River
Scientific Name: Limnopilos naiyanetri
Common Name: Thai Micro Crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri, Pill-box crab, False Spider crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: About 1 centimeter (0.4 inches)
Lifespan Captivity: Up to 2 years
Tank Size: 5-gallon tank or larger
Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

Thai Micro crabs is just that, Micro! These tiny crab only get up to a half inch wide and have a subdued transparent grey-silver color and long ‘spider’ like legs giving them the nickname False Spider Crabs.

Thai Micro Crabs live in the roots of the water plant hyacinth so try to replicate this environment as much as possible. Unlike most crab species, you want a lot of plants in your tank as they like to hide and rummage through the plants looking for bits of food and won’t dig them up or cause major damage to them.

These micro crabs are better left in a single community tank as these tiny crabs are so small almost anything else you would keep with them would end up eating them! They’re pretty defenseless and they mostly like to just leisurely hang around on driftwood and plants catching small food particles with the tiny hairs that cover their carapace and legs.

3. Red Claw (Perisesarma bidens)

Family: Grapsidae
Origin: Indo-Pacific region
Scientific Name: Perisesarma bidens
Common Name: Red Claw Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) carapace width, 4 inches (about 10 cm) overall
Lifespan: Up to 2-3 years
Tank Size: 10 gallons or 20 gallons for a pair
Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
Tank pH: 7.5 to 8.5
Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

The first thing to know about these crabs is they are brackish water crabs and not freshwater crabs. Left with only freshwater, they’ll die in less than 6 months since they have gills that are accustomed to breathing in brackish water, so pay attention to your water quality if you want a healthy red claw crab!

Their defining feature is their brightly colored red claws, hence their name. The Red Claw Crab has two protruding black eyes positioned at the front of its head and range in color from dark green to brownish-red.

They will do well in a properly aquascaped paludarium with at least 70% brackish water and 30% land area. Sand is the best substrate as these crabs love to dig and burrow and are adept to sandy conditions. Hardscaping is important in order to give red claws a place to hide and molt. Driftwood and rocks are best as they can’t readily destroy them as they can your plants.

4. Panther (Parathelphusa pantherina)

Family: Sesarmidae
Origin: Indo-Pacific island of Sulawesi
Scientific Name: Parathelphusa pantherina
Common Name: Panther Crab, Leopard Crabs
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm)
Lifespan Captivity: 5 to 10
Tank Size: Minimum 10 gallons
Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

Panther Crabs are freshwater aquarium crabs that get their name from their unique black spotting on their light yellow and orange bodies. These fully aquatic crab can grow up to three inches and are easy crabs to take care of, but are semi-aggressive and may not do well with other tank mates.

In fact, it’s best to keep just one crab in a 20 gallon tank or larger. Line your tank with sand and give your crab plenty of rocks, driftwood and other hardscapes so there are plenty of place for one to search and hide when it needs to. But be weary of plants as Panther’s will dig them up and eat them.

Like most crabs, they are omnivores and appreciate a variety of foods like larvae, small shrimp and even decaying plant matter or blanched vegetables. They primarily feed and roam at night scavenging for food and eating anything they can grab. Lancetfish and unshelled shrimp are particularly great foods as they contain a lot of the calcium needed for Panther crabs to molt successfully.

5. Pom Pom (Ptychognathus barbatus)

Family: Pinnotheridae
Origin: Indo-Pacific region
Scientific Name: Lybia tessellata
Common Name: Pom Pom Crab
Diet: Carnivorous
Size: About 1 inch (2.5 cm)
Lifespan: Up to 1 year
Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
Temperature: 72-78 °F (22-26 °C)
Tank pH: 7.0. 7.2
Tank kH: 2-6 dKH

The Pom Pom crab (video source) is a newer addition to the hobby and gets it’s name from the hairy tufts on its pincers that really do resemble little pom poms. These freshwater pom crabs are small and rarely get larger than an inch. They have a lightish tan or brown body with speckles or patches of darker browns with some oranges mixed in.

Pom crabs are very peaceful and are true aquatic freshwater aquarium crabs and can easily live in a community fish tank with similarly sized fish or small non-aggressive fish that won’t eat them. Be sure to use sand as a substrate with plenty of small stones and some driftwood for them to hide in and search for food.

The freshwater pom is an active scavenger and will eat almost anything including algae and detritus in your tank. They should be fed a varied diet that leans more towards plant materials like leafy greens as well as some protein like bloodworms and brine shrimp.

And be sure to keep a lid on any tank you have these in as they’re expert climbers and can make their way out of even the smallest holes. Sadly the pom pom crab has one of the shortest lifespans of any of the crabs on our list, lasting no more than a year in captivity.

6. Towuti (Parathelphusa ferruginea)

Family: Parathelphusidae
Origin: Lake Towuti, Sulawesi Island, Indonesia
Scientific Name: Sundathelphusa towutensis
Common Name: Towuti Crab, Rusty Brown Sulawesi Crab
Diet: Omnivorous – prefer live food
Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Lifespan: Unknown, but estimated to be 2-3 years in captivity
Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

Towuti crabs are small 2 inch (5 cm) crabs that hail from one island in Indonesia, Sulawesi, and live in lakes and tributaries making them true fully aquatic species fit for any aquarium. Just make sure it has a lid as they’re active even in the day and expert escape artists.

The Towuti are aggressive and highly skilled hunters, so no community tanks for these guys. They will eat small fish, shrimp and anything they can get their claws on. They prefer live fish and shrimp over plant material, but adding fall leaves (dying or dead organic matter) or algae wafers gives them a feeling of home and the extra plant material these omnivores need.

7. Red Devil (Geosesarma hagen)

Family: Sesarmidae
Origin: Indonesia
Scientific Name: Geosesarma hagen
Common Name: Red Devil Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in carapace width
Lifespan: 1-2 years
Tank Size: At least 5 gallons for a pair or trio, with plenty of hiding places and climbing structures.
Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
Tank pH: 7.0-8.0
Tank kH: 2-5 dKH

The Red Devil Crab (video source) has to be the meanest looking crab out of all of them. I mean, it just looks like a devil with its dark legs, bright red body and pincers and piercing yellow eyes starring at you. It’s definitely colorful.

They’re semi-terrestrial and do best in freshwater paludariums and share the same home as the Geosesarma Dennerle (Vampire crabs) in Indonesia. And although they may look really mean, they actually are not aggressive and like having the company of a few of their own species.

These smaller crabs measure around 2-3 inches (5. 7 cm) full grown and only live to about a year and a half. They are nocturnal and like to hide from light in the day time under rocks, wood and vegetation. And they’re really skillful hunters.

Red Devils enjoy hunting live foods like small slow fish, brine shrimp and anything it can get it’s claws on, but still need some detritus and dying plant matter as they’re omnivores.

8. Thai Devil (Cardisoma carnifex)

Family: Cardisomidae
Origin: Indo-Pacific region
Scientific Name: Cardisoma carnifex
Common Name: Thai Devil Crab, Black Land Crab, Giant Land Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: Up to 18 cm (7 inches) carapace width
Lifespan: Up to 10 years
Tank Size: Not suitable for aquariums
Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)

The Thai Red Devil crab (video source), not to be confused with the Red Devil Crab (Geosesarma hagen), is one of the largest terrestrial crabs growing up to 6. 8 inches (about 15. 20 cm) including its legs and is definitely not for the inexperienced hobbyist.

Not the most colorful crab with its maroon to brownish-grey or greyish-blue body and legs, Thai Devil Crabs do live up to 8 years although most of the time will be spent in their deep burrows, some of which can be as deep as seven feet.

Due to the way a Thai Devil Crab breathes, they need a lot of humidity as their lungs pull oxen from the water vapor, not the air. They are also aggressive and like to live on their own so you’ll need to keep them in a single species tank.

9. Matano (Syntripsa Matannensis)

Family: Gecarcinucidae
Origin: Lake Matano, Sulawesi, Indonesia
Scientific Name: Geosesarma notophorum
Common Name: Matano Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Tank Size: 20 gallons or larger
Temperature: 72-82 °F (22-28 °C)
Tank pH: 6.5-7.5

Matano Crabs (video source) are aquatic creatures that can also come onto dry land if available. They’re a beautiful deep purple color including their purple carapace and have white pigmented joints.

The Matano crab is aggressive with same species crabs and it’s best not to keep more than one male in a tank. Male crabs will definitely fight, sometimes to the death.

These nocturnal crabs grow to between 3. 5 inches (7. 12 cm) and live around 3 years in captivity. Due to their larger size it’s best to keep a male and one or two females in a 20 gallon tank or larger. They’ll also eat slow swimming fish so don’t keep them in a community set up.

They actually come from the same lake in Indonesia as the Panther crab (parathelpusaa pantherina), although you shouldn’t keep them in the same tank. Like Panthers, a sand substrate is best with some gravel plus nooks and crannies to keep them occupied.

Matano Crabs are omnivorous scavengers and will eat practically anything but like many freshwater crabs, a variety of different foods is best.

10. Fiddler (Ocypodidae)

Family: Ocypodidae
Origin: Coastal regions worldwide
Scientific Name: Uca spp.
Common Name: Fiddler Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
Tank pH: 7.2-8.2
Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

There are more than 100 of these semi-terrestrial crab species and each has it’s own color variation and unique attributes which makes these little crabs ideal for beginner crab owners.

The best environment to house them is a slightly brackish paludarium with at least 10. 20 cm (4. 8 inches) of sand for substrate so they can create little tunnels and burrow.

Fiddler Crabs will return to their burrows often and males will fight for the best burrow spots in your tank, so make sure there is plenty of room if you plan to keep more than one male.

These fascinating invertebrates come in a variety of colors and the options are endless. The most striking feature is of course the large claw or pincer that they’re named for, which is only on the males and is used for fighting and during mating.

Fiddler crabs are relatively small, barely growing to two inches including their leg span making them ideal for smaller aquarium set ups. A fiddler crab can live up to 3 years and are easy to care for and feed.

11. Hermit (Coenobita variabilis)

Family: Coenobitidae
Origin: Coastal regions of the Indo-Pacific
Scientific Name: Coenobita variabilis
Common Name: Hermit Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: Average species is 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)
Lifespan: 5-30 years
Tank Size: Minimum 5 gallons
Temperature: 26-30°C (~80°F-85°F)
Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

Hermit Crabs are terrestrial and most likely the first pet crabs crab owners get as they are so easy to find and inexpensive compared to most other pets. And there are hundreds of sub-species that range from an inch or less in size to the coconut hermit that gets a whopping 40 inches from leg tip to tip.

Their colors and life spans are just as varied and some can live up to 30 years!

What makes Hermits very different is they don’t have a hard exoskeleton like other crabs which is why they must find a shell to protect themselves, or they’re easily prayed upon. As they get bigger they must find a new shell discarding the old.

Hermits are also different in that they have modified lungs and breath from water vapor rather than water or air. This means to keep them you must have a tank humidity of 75% or more. No an easy thing for a beginner, so these are not really an easy crab to keep.

You should also use sand as a substrate that is always moist with brackish water and has a depth of at least four inches for a happy crab to burrow. And plenty of different sized shells for them to grow into!

12. Tanganyika (Parathelphusidae sp.)

Family: Parathelphusidae
Origin: East Africa, specifically Lake Tanganyika
Scientific Name: Neolamprologus multifasciatus
Common Name: Tanganyika crabs
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 2-4 cm (0.8-1.6 inches)
Lifespan: Up to 4 years
Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
Temperature: 75-82°F (24-28°C)
Tank pH: 7.0-8.5
Tank kH: 6-10 dKH

Tanganyika Crabs include nine known species all deriving from Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. These are one of the rarest species and little research has been done on them. So if you are able to secure one of these, consider yourself lucky.

The species ranges from one to two inches in size and all are some sort of light brown and tan in color. Honestly a bit unremarkable.

They are true aquatic crabs and don’t need any dry land to thrive. They prefer a sand substrate and pebbles and don’t borrow like other crabs. They do, however need places to hide so include some rocks and driftwood in your tank.

And forget about plants as these little aquarium crabs will shred and eat anything and are opportunistic scavengers in their natural habitat.

13. Marble Batik (Metasesarma obesum)

Family: Sesarmidae
Origin: Southeast Asia
Scientific Name: Metasesarma obesum
Common Name: Marble Batik Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 2-3 cm (0.8-1.2 inches)
Lifespan: 2-3 years
Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
Tank kH: 2-8 dKH

The Marble Batik Crab is another land or terrestrial crab that is actually quite rare in the aquarium hobby world. They’re small and only grow to less than two inches and live for up to 3 years.

They’re easy to keep and don’t require much water, although if you have the space a freshwater and a saltwater bowl with marine salt are optimal. But you can just keep them in a 5 gallon tank with a freshwater bowl if necessary.

Like most land crab, Marble Batiks like to burrow and require a minimum 2 inch substrate of sand and small pebbles. They love to explore and you should provide them with plenty of places to do so using rocks and driftwood. Plants are also good.

Like most land crabs, they are easy enough to keep provided you’re able to keep the humidity at 75% or more as they breath through water vapor and not through water or air.

14. Red Apple (Metasesarma aubryi) aka Chameleon

Family: Grapsidae
Origin: Indo-Pacific region
Scientific Name: Pugettia producta
Common Name: Red Apple Crab, Chameleon Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm)
Lifespan: 3-6 years
Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
Tank kH: 4-10 dKH

Red Apple crabs as a species are terrestrial crabs that grow to be about 7. 10 cm (3. 4 inches) in total size and live to anywhere between 3 to 6 years old. Since they are terrestrial, all they really need is a freshwater bowl in a landscaped aquarium, although a paludarium setup works best.

These are really hardy and easy to care for making them very beginner friendly pets. They’re colorful with dark legs and bodies that have red and orange claws and bright yellow eyes making them attractive pets to keep. They are also called Chameleon crabs because their colors can change according to their moods.

Red Apples are social and you should include a minimum of 2 to 3 crabs in your tank.

15. Rainbow (Cardisoma armatum)

Family: Grapsidae
Origin: Indo-Pacific region
Scientific Name: Cardisoma armatum
Common Name: Rainbow Crab, African Rainbow Crab, Nigerian Moon Crab, Patriot Crab, Rainbow Land Crab
Diet: Omnivorous
Size: up to 5 inches (12.7 cm)
Lifespan: up to 3-5 years
Tank Size: Minimum 20-30 gallons for one crab
Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
Tank pH: 7.5-8.5.
Tank kH: 8-15 dKH

Rainbow Crabs (video source) are a semi-aquatic and aren’t the easiest crab to keep as they need a relatively high humidity level in their tank, up to 80%, as they have special gills that breath from humidity and not the water or air like most other crabs. They also need a place to completely dry off and need 5-10% brackish water to do their best.

These brightly colored brackish crabs prefer to spend most of their time buried in burrows they make in the sand substrate of your tank. So make sure you have at least 6 inches of sand on the bottom so they can dig away. Also include things to keep them busy like driftwood and rocks that create little caves and crevices for them to explore.

These are very aggressive crabs with sharp pincers and should be kept alone as they will literally fight with their own species to the death. They can grow from 6 to 8 inches which makes them one of the largest crab on our list, and one requiring a large tank of at least 20 gallons for a single rainbow land crab, 40 or more for more than one rainbow land crab.

These brackish crabs omnivorous and love to scavenge at night for foods like crab pellets and algae wafers when they’re most active. During the day they are usually sleeping in the burrows they’ll make in your substrate.

Tank Mates For Freshwater Aquarium Crabs – And Which to Avoid!

When it comes to what makes good tank mates for crabs, it really depends on the species of crab and their preferences. As a general rule, most land crabs do not do well with other crabs, especially male to male. Some will fight to the death. And others will fight with other species of crab. You really need to research each individual species to know.

Another general guideline is never include small slow moving fish as most crabs are hunters as well as scavengers and will eat whatever they can catch. And similarly, larger aggressive fish will usually make a meal of your crabs. So again, it’s really important to look at each individual species’ requirements.

Some other bad tank mates are shrimp, crayfish and any small slow creature that can easily become a meal. Most crab are predators, and all of them are omnivores which means they eat meat. So expect them to dine on whatever is in the tank and they can catch and you should be safe.

One note, just because your crab can’t catch the fish in your community tank doesn’t mean it is okay. Fish know a predator is around and this can really stress them out. So usually it’s best to just keep crab by themselves.

What crabs live in freshwater?

There are many species of crabs that can live in freshwater. Here are a few:

Red Claw Crab (Perisesarma bidens)
Panther Crab (Parathelphusa pantherina)
Thai Micro Crab (Limnopilos naiyanetri)
Vampire Crabs (Geosesarma sp.)
Fiddler Crab (Uca sp.)
Marble Batik Crab (Metasesarma obesum)
Tanganyika Crab (Neolamprologus multifasciatus)
Orange Crab (Sesarma bidens)

Are there any fully aquatic freshwater crabs?

Yes, there are some fully aquatic freshwater crab species with the largest family being “Potamidae,” which includes the Mexican Dwarf Crab (Cambarellus patzcuarensis), the Red Clawed Crab (Perisesarma bidens), and the Thai Micro Crab (Limnopilos naiyanetri). All of these crabs live in freshwater streams, rivers and lakes and are ‘true’ freshwater crab. Panther Crabs (Parathelphusa pantherina) are another fully aquatic crab.

Are there any edible freshwater crabs?

Yes, freshwater crab is eaten just like any other crustacean. Although many species of these crab are very small and don’t really make a meal themselves, when added to soups and stir fries these crab provide protein and flavor to a number of dishes around the world. Matano Crab are commercially harvested for food.

What do freshwater crabs eat?

Freshwater aquarium crab are omnivores that usually feed on dead plants and animals they find when foraging for food. They eat anything from algae and detritus to small fish and other invertebrates.

Can you have crabs in a freshwater tank?

Yes, you can keep these crabs in a freshwater tank. But make sure the crab species you plan to keep is compatible with your tank setup as many species are aquatic and terrestrial and need a dry place as well as fresh water.

Can I put a crab in my fish tank?

Yes, you can put a crab in your fish tank if it is an aquatic crab. Most freshwater crabs are terrestrial and need to be able to walk on drier surfaces. You’ll need to research which species of crab you want and find out if they are truly aquatic freshwater crabs.

Are hermit crabs good for freshwater aquariums?

Overall a hermit crab is not a good fit for a freshwater aquarium set up. Most hermit crab need salt water, although they can live in fresh water as well. Also, hermits need to be able to walk around on dry ground, so an aquarium with no dry areas is not a good set up for them.

Can you put crabs in freshwater fish tank?

You can add crabs to a freshwater fish tank provided they are the correct species. There are many species that do well in freshwater fish tanks. Take a look at our list above to find the right crabs to keep.

In Closing

Keeping freshwater crabs is just one more exciting way to diversify your aquarium with something new and super interesting. And no matter what type of aquarium set up you have, there’s a species that matches, from terrestrial, semi-terrestrial and even completely aquatic species, these crabs offers something for everyone.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

April 17, 2023

Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: What You Need to Know

Frequently Asked Questions
Species Overview
Classification
Brief Introduction
Origin and Habitat
Appearance
Food and Diet
Temperament and Behavior
Best Tank Mates
Complete Care Guide
Tank Maintenance
Breeding
Fish Diseases
Conclusion

Freshwater angelfish are one of the most popular cichlids in the hobby and one of the most misunderstood. They are not community fish in the way most people think. They eat small tetras, bully slow swimmers, and become territorial nightmares when they pair off. I have kept angelfish for over 25 years and the most common mistake I see is stocking them with fish they will eventually eat. It happens every single time. The community fish that stops being a community fish the moment it is big enough to eat its neighbors.

The community fish that eats the community.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Freshwater Angelfish

The most persistent myth about angelfish is that they’re peaceful community fish. They’re cichlids. They eat small fish. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard from keepers who watched their angelfish eat their neon tetras overnight. If it fits in an angelfish’s mouth, it’s food. And adult angelfish have surprisingly large mouths. The other major misconception is tank size. Yes, a single angelfish can technically survive in a 20-gallon tall tank, but a pair or small group needs 55 gallons minimum. Their tall body shape means they need vertical space too, not just footprint.

Freshwater angelfish are one of the most recognizable fish in the hobby. And one of the most misunderstood. People buy them as juveniles thinking they’re peaceful community fish, then are surprised when a 6-inch adult starts eating neon tetras and bullying everything in the tank. I’ve kept angelfish for years and they’re genuinely wonderful fish, but they need the right setup and the right tank mates. This care guide covers what actually matters from my experience, not just the textbook requirements.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Freshwater Angelfish

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They are graceful and slow. Watching angelfish drift through a planted tank is hypnotic. Their slow, deliberate movements and tall, flowing fins make them one of the most elegant freshwater fish.

They pair off and breed readily. If you have a group of 6, at least one pair will form and start laying eggs. The breeding behavior is fascinating to watch, but be prepared for increased aggression.

They recognize feeding time. Angelfish learn your routine quickly. They congregate at the feeding spot before you even open the food container. Some will eat from your fingers.

Fin nipping is a constant risk. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and other nippy species will shred angelfish fins. Those long, flowing fins are irresistible targets. Choose tank mates carefully.

How the Freshwater Angelfish Compares to Similar Species

The altum angelfish is the wild cousin that every angelfish enthusiast eventually considers. Altums are taller, more dramatic, and have a presence that domestic angelfish can’t match. But they’re also significantly more demanding. They need soft, acidic water, warmer temperatures (82-86°F), and are much more sensitive to water quality. Domestic freshwater angelfish are reliable, good-looking, and easy to live with. Altums are breathtaking but high-maintenance. Unless you’re experienced with demanding species, start with domestics.

The discus is the other tall, round South American cichlid that gets compared to angelfish. Discus are more colorful and arguably more beautiful, but they’re in a different league of difficulty. They need warmer water (82-86°F), are extremely sensitive to water quality, and cost significantly more. Angelfish give you about 60% of the discus experience at about 10% of the difficulty and cost. For most keepers, that’s a great trade-off.

Frequently Asked Questions

How big do freshwater angelfish get?

Freshwater angelfish can grow up to 6 inches long and 8 inches tall, including their elongated dorsal and anal fins. In a well-maintained aquarium with proper nutrition, most reach their full size within 12 to 18 months.

Can angelfish live alone?

A single angelfish can do fine on its own in a community tank, but they are more confident and display better coloring when kept with a companion or small group. If you go with a pair, watch for territorial behavior during breeding.

Are angelfish aggressive?

Angelfish are semi-aggressive, especially during breeding. They establish a pecking order in groups and can bully smaller or slower-moving fish. Providing plenty of vertical space and line-of-sight breaks with tall plants helps reduce aggression.

What is the ideal tank size for angelfish?

A 30-gallon tall tank is the minimum for a pair of angelfish. For a small group of four to six, aim for a 55-gallon or larger. The vertical height of the tank matters more than footprint because of their tall body shape.

How long do freshwater angelfish live?

With proper care, freshwater angelfish live 8 to 10 years in captivity. Some well-kept specimens have been reported to live even longer. Stable water parameters, a varied diet, and low stress are the biggest factors in longevity.

Do angelfish eat smaller fish?

Yes, angelfish are opportunistic feeders and will eat fish small enough to fit in their mouths. Neon tetras and small rasboras are common victims. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten, such as larger tetras, corydoras, or peaceful medium-sized species.

The Reality of Keeping Freshwater Angelfish

Angelfish are beautiful and widely available. But the pet store version of what they need and the reality are two different things.

They eat small fish. Any fish that fits in an angelfish’s mouth is food. Neon tetras, guppies, small rasboras. All fair game once the angelfish reaches adult size. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten.

They need tall tanks. Angelfish grow tall, not just long. Their fins can span 8 to 10 inches vertically. A standard 20 gallon long does not have the height they need. A 55 gallon or taller tank is the minimum for a small group.

They fight for dominance. In a group of angelfish, a hierarchy forms. The dominant pair claims the best territory and pushes everyone else around. In a tank that is too small, subordinate angels get beaten up constantly.

Breeding pairs become aggressive. A mated pair of angelfish guarding eggs will attack anything that comes near. This includes tank mates that have lived peacefully with them for years. Be prepared for this shift in behavior.

Biggest Mistake New Freshwater Angelfish Owners Make

Keeping them in a tank that is too short. Angelfish need vertical space. A 20 gallon long is a terrible home for angelfish even though it has enough gallons. Get a tank that is at least 18 inches tall, preferably 24.

Expert Take

Keep angelfish in a 55 gallon or larger tank that is at least 18 inches tall. Choose tank mates that are too big to eat and too calm to nip fins. Rummy nose tetras, corydoras, and bristlenose plecos are the classic companions for a reason. They work.

Key Takeaways

Freshwater angelfish are peaceful fish that can be kept in a community planted tank.
It can be slightly challenging to find appropriate tank mates for angels due to their potential aggression, but they do well with larger tetras and their own species.
Angelfish have undergone selective breeding to express the best colors and patterns possible.
Breeding angelfish is straightforward and happens on its own in the right settings. This has eliminated the need to collect wild angelfish.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Pterophyllum scalare
Common Names	Angelfish, Freshwater angelfish
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	Amazon River system
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Low
Lifespan	10 to 12 years
Temperament	Peaceful (Semi-aggressive when breeding)
Tank Level	All
Minimum Tank Size	40 gallons
Temperature Range	75. 82°F
Water Hardness	1-5 KH
pH Range	6.0 to 7.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to high
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Certain community species
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Subfamily	Cichlinae
Genus	Pterophyllum
Species	P. Scalare (Schultze, 1823)

Brief Introduction

Freshwater angelfish remain one of the most popular fish available in the aquarium hobby. These fish have been around for decades and still hold the hearts of hobbyists everywhere. Check our our video from our YouTube Channel. We have more details in our blog post so you can follow along to both!

Now more than ever, dozens of angelfish varieties featuring every color and pattern are readily available. Their easy care requirements on top of their simple breeding, make angelfish one of the best feature fish you can have in your freshwater tank.

There are a few considerations that come along with owning angelfish, though. These fish, scientifically known as Pterophyllum scalare, actually belong to the cichlid family. If you know anything about freshwater fish, then some red flags is going off in your head. Cichlids are aggressive, right?

Yes, freshwater cichlids are known for being aggressive. However, angelfish are one of the most peaceful cichlid species for the home aquarium. They are often kept with community tank species but can also be kept with other semi-aggressive cichlids. This leaves a lot of possibilities for tank mates and tank setups!

It should be noted that two other species of angelfish are sometimes seen in the aquarium hobby: P altum (Known as Altum Angelfish) and P leopoldi. For this article, we will only focus on P scalare.

Do Angelfish Live in Freshwater?

Yes! Angelfish live in freshwater. But angelfish also live in saltwater. This is a case of stolen identity. Freshwater angelfish are not related to saltwater angelfish. Freshwater angels belong to the Cichlidae family while saltwater angels belong to the Pomacanthidae family. Even as you go further up their scientific taxonomy, there is no connection between these two fish.

Most likely, they are both regarded as angelfish due to their intricate trailing fins and rounded appearance.

Origin and Habitat

Angelfish originate from the Amazon River basin throughout the northern regions of tropical South America. More specifically, they is found in Colombia, French Guiana, Peru, Brazil, and Guyana.

These fish are found in slow-moving waters filled with vegetation. Water is soft and stained from tannins due to organic matter that falls from the jungle canopy above.

Today, most aquarium angelfish are bred in captivity. As we’ll see, they are easy to breed and acclimate well to aquarium conditions. This makes transporting them to your own aquarium much easier, with less risk of introducing disease and parasites from wild-caught individuals.

Appearance

What’s angelic about a fish? We’ll tell you.

Angelfish are unlike any other fish available. They have compact yet tall bodies with trailing fins. These long pelvic fins are sometimes known as feelers as they is seen extended forwards and sideways to interpret their surroundings better. With their fins and slow, graceful movements, they effortlessly float from one side of the tank to the other. Some species naturally have red eyes and they make excellent centerpiece fish.

On top of their ornate appearance, angelfish also come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some of the most common color variation options:

Koi angelfish. Named after their resemblance to the coldwater species, koi angelfish feature mottled variations of white, yellow/orange, and black.
Marble angelfish. There are a few variations of angelfish within the marble category, including veil tail varieties. These fish often feature black and silver marbling with long, uneven streaks of color. The black marbling varies from fish to fish.
Zebra angelfish. Zebra angelfish are similar to their wild-type variations but have much broader and more even alternating silver and black stripes.
Silver angelfish. These angels are thought to be the most natural variety, with a silver body and random, thin vertical black stripes.
Black lace angelfish – pictured above. This fish offers a silver body with black strips and the trademark red eye
Gold angelfish – A light sliver and orange to gold color near the face. You will also see gold marble varieties that will offer black marks across the body and fins
Veil angelfish – These fish have long upper and lower fins that make them appear taller in the aquarium. They do best in tall planted tanks.

How Big Do Freshwater Angelfish Get?

Don’t be fooled by the small angelfish for sale at your local fish stores. These fish are sold as juveniles but can grow to get quite big over time. Freshwater angelfish can grow to be 6 inches in length and 8 inches tall. It isn’t unheard of for them to reach up to 12 inches in height at mature size.

Lifespan

On top of their size, angelfish can live for considerably longer times. Freshwater angelfish can live to be over a decade old, sometimes surpassing 12 years of age!

This long lifespan is important to keep in mind as they are a long-term commitment. On top of their large size and volatile temperament, angelfish should never be an impulse buy.

Food and Diet

To get the best fins and colors out of your angelfish, you want to provide the best food and diet possible. These are large centerpiece fish, but they have small mouths and aren’t overly ambitious when it comes to feeding times. This means that feeding angelfish requires some special attention.

Angelfish eat at the surface of the water. They may chase after some sinking food, but they prefer a high-quality pellet or flake food that can easily fit in their mouth. It should also be noted that they’re not overly ambitious eaters, and prefer to eat at a relaxed pace. If the other tank mates in the aquarium are overly active, then it is necessary to offer both floating and sinking foods for better distribution.

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Otherwise, freshwater angelfish will appreciate a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and mosquito larvae. As omnivores, they is offered a variety of blanched vegetables as well, including cucumber and lettuce. These vegetables is clipped to the side of the aquarium to prevent your angel from dragging its fins across the bottom of the tank.

How Often Do You Feed Angelfish and How Much?

In general, aquarium fish should be fed at least once a day. The portion should be able to be eaten within 5 minutes, with the excess being immediately removed from the tank. Many hobbyists prefer to feed their fish in more frequent, smaller portions. An example of this feeding schedule would be a pinch of food in the morning, afternoon, and night.

Temperament and Behavior

Angelfish are largely peaceful fish. Many hobbyists keep them without ever having a problem with other fish. Now and again, a hobbyist will experience an overly aggressive angelfish, which taints the name of the species altogether.

It is true that angelfish is semi-aggressive. Caution should be taken when keeping angels, especially larger individuals, with slow or small fish. When buying angelfish, try to go for juveniles. Sadly, there is probably a reason why a large angelfish has been returned to the store, often caused by over-aggression.

Otherwise, angelfish are very docile. They is seen floating at the top and in the middle of the water column without hardly moving their fins. They may swim at all levels of the aquarium, but they especially like hanging out by the surface, waiting for food.

Best Tank Mates

While often sold as a community fish, angels need some careful tank mate planning. In general, angelfish is kept with most community tank species as long as they aren’t fin nippers or overly active.

It is important to a juvenile angelfish will grow. Just because they is safely kept with certain species while small does not mean that those same tank mates will be compatible in the future. Because of this, it’s best to plan your community aquarium for long-term success.

Here are some of the best community angelfish tank mates:

Corydoras
Plecos
Dwarf gourami
Boesemani rainbowfish
Livebearers
Certain tetras (Cardinal tetras, Rummynose tetras)
African Butterfly Fish

As a cichlid, angelfish can also be kept in freshwater aquariums that feature peaceful cichlids. Here are some of the recommended species:

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Adult angelfish have been known to be aggressive towards one another. But there’s no denying how incredible these fish look together in planted community tanks!

These fish are best kept in pairs as male and female in the long term. In larger tanks, small groups of 5 or more may be kept as long as fish are added together at the same time while still juveniles. It’s also strongly recommended to only keep female angelfish together to prevent harassment, though this is difficult as there are minuscule differences between males and females.

To prevent aggression altogether, only keep a single angelfish in any given tank.

What Size Tank Do You Need For 2 Angelfish?

Many hobbyists like keeping freshwater angelfish in pairs. This increases the chances of breeding and also lessens the possibility of aggression arising.

In general, the bare minimum tank size for any angelfish is 40 gallons. However, if keeping only a single pair of angelfish in an aquarium by themselves, then it’s possible to keep them in a 20 gallon tall aquarium; this is one of the only fish in the aquarium trade that does better in a taller aquarium rather than a long one.

Do Angelfish Eat Other Angelfish?

A large, adult angelfish may eat a smaller angelfish. Though these fish have tiny mouths, they’re very capable of bullying other fish until they die. At that point, they may begin to eat the fish. This is especially known to be true for smaller species, like neon tetras.

Whenever adding angelfish to an aquarium, make sure that they are all relatively the same size and preferably from the same tank.

Tank Mates to Avoid

Angelfish tank mates to avoid are smaller, slower fish. Because of this, most species of tetra are incompatible with angels; at the same time, fin-nipping tetra species must also be avoided. Overly aggressive species, like African cichlids, can’t be kept with angelfish as they may injure or stress them out. Lastly, tank mates can’t be overly active as this could also cause damage to your fish or cause unnecessary competition during feeding periods.

Complete Care Guide

Once you get the tank mate situation sorted out, angelfish care is easy. These are relatively hardy fish that have been captive bred in the aquarium trade for decades. This has made them very resistant to common aquarium illnesses and forgiving of incorrect water conditions.

Here are some ways you can give your angelfish the best life possible!

Aquarium Setup

The best angelfish aquarium setup will resemble their natural habitat with slow-moving water and dense vegetation. In fact, the angelfish body shape is perfectly designed to flow in and out of live plants. Not only do plants make your fish feel at home, but they also help maintain water quality and lessen the need for tank maintenance.

On top of live plants, hard structures, like driftwood and smooth rocks, is used to make your fish feel more comfortable.

Tank Size

Angelfish can get to be pretty decent sizes, but their relaxed demeanor and ease of care don’t make a large tank necessary.

What size tank do angelfish need? A single pair of angelfish without any other fish need a 20 gallon tall tank. A pair of angelfish with other community fish need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. A small group of angels should be kept in freshwater aquariums over 100 gallons.

55 Gallon Aquarium

The 55-gallon aquarium is a great budget-friendly larger tank. It often goes on sale at chain pet stores.

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As mentioned before, a tall tank is better than a long tank when keeping angelfish due to their long, pointed fins.

Tank Decorations

Angels are best kept in aquariums that match the conditions of the freshwater rivers and streams that they’re found in, but they have adapted to the more traditional appearance of hobbyist tanks. This means they is kept in a planted aquarium with natural driftwood and rock or colorful decor and pirate ships.

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Just as long as these decorations are aquarium-safe and won’t tug at your fish’s delicate fins, they is used for an angel tank.

Substrate

Similarly, angelfish is kept on an assortment of substrates, like sand, gravel, or even a bare bottom. Sand is beneficial for hobbyists looking to achieve a natural appearance that facilities plant root growth. Gravel is a popular choice for beginner hobbyists that aren’t interested in keeping plants. A bare bottom is great for angel keepers looking to minimize their workload.

Is the Freshwater Angelfish Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

A true classic for good reason. Angelfish have been popular since the 1930s because they’re beautiful, engaging, and readily available in dozens of varieties.
Choose tank mates carefully. No fish small enough to eat (goodbye, neon tetras) and nothing nippy enough to damage their fins (no tiger barbs).
Need vertical space. Their tall body shape means tank height matters as much as length. At least 18 inches tall, ideally 24.
Can become territorial during breeding. A pair guarding eggs will dominate a significant portion of the tank, pushing other fish out of their territory.
Excellent for planted tanks. They look stunning among tall plants like Amazon swords and vallisneria, which also mimic their natural habitat.
Plan for a group of 5-6 if you want to see natural pairing behavior. Buying a single angelfish works, but watching a pair form naturally from a group is a special experience.

Lighting

Angels aren’t shy fish. In fact, shyness is a sign that something is wrong. For the most part, angelfish are likely to be found in the front of the tank. If they’re hiding in the back, then they is facing bullying from other fish, improper water parameters, or overly intense lighting.

If you find that your fish is staying in the shadows of your tank, observe for bullying, test water conditions, and try lowering the lighting intensity. Adding floating plants and creating more areas of shade can help your fish feel more comfortable.

Live Plants

Live plants are the best tank mates for angelfish! These fish is kept with all species of plant in a high or low tech setting. They especially enjoy floating plant species that provide food and coverage at the top of the tank.

Tank Maintenance

If keeping angels in a planted aquarium, then not a lot of tank maintenance is required as the plants will naturally recycle excess nutrients. Here’s how to make sure your angel tank stays running smoothly!

Filtration and Aeration

Angelfish do best in an aquarium with little to no water current. However, adequate water flow is necessary for the circulation of gases and nutrients throughout the aquarium.

For the most part, the current from an appropriately sized hang on the back filter or canister filter will be gentle enough for angels. If you find that your fish is struggling to swim in your aquarium, then it is necessary to baffle the return flow.

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Angelfish grow to large sizes, which means more waste. Gauge how many fish you have and their size when picking out your aquarium filter. Otherwise, additional aeration is not necessary, though a carbon dioxide diffuser is necessary for heavily planted setups.

Water Parameters

Angels are hardy fish, but cannot tolerate traces of ammonia or nitrite. Planted aquariums require nitrate to run, though levels should always remain under 30 ppm. It may be necessary to dose nutrients for healthy plant growth.

While wild angelfish originate from acidic water conditions, most individuals have been captive bred. This means that they have adapted to average aquarium conditions with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 and a water temperature between 75 and 82°F.

Tank Maintenance

For most aquariums, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly cleaning schedule maintains water parameters. This percentage and frequency may change depending on the number of plants and current bioload in the aquarium. It’s strongly recommended to use an aquarium vacuum while performing a water change to remove any debris or waste that gets stuck in the substrate or between plant stems.

Another part of maintenance is trimming plants. Though this isn’t required, some plants can grow unruly, which can start to become overwhelming. Not to mention that you will need to keep up with feeding your plants as well.

Breeding

Breeding angelfish is easy, fun, and rewarding. These fish are easy to breed as long as you’re able to establish a male and female pairing. Breeding should take place in a separate tank if there are other fish present in the aquarium. A video below by Patrick Neary goes into more detail.

There are a few differences between male and female angels, but they is hard to see. One of the only, though not always guaranteed, ways to tell these fish apart is by examining their behavior. Male angelfish will show much more territorial behavior than females, though some females is just as aggressive.

In general, it’s best to shop from pet stores that already have an established breeding pair. Otherwise, a small group of juvenile angelfish is purchased and maintained until a breeding pair has formed.

Once a pair has formed, they angelfish mate on their own. The water temperature may be slightly elevated, and the quality of food increased to encourage spawning. When ready, the female will release eggs that the male will fertilize. Angelfish parents are very protective of their eggs and should be kept together during this time.

Within a few days, the eggs will hatch the fry will become free-swimming. Baby brine shrimp are great to feed these newborn fish as the yolk sacs of newly hatched brine shrimp offer a lot of nutritional value to them. The parents will continue offering protection during this time but have been known to eat their fry if not supplied with enough food!

Fry may be fed tiny foods, like brine shrimp nauplii, until ready to accept bigger portions.

Fish Diseases

Though angels are hardy fish, they’re susceptible to a few unique diseases and illnesses. Like other fish, they can contract ich, velvet, and fin rot, especially if their long fins are allowed to scrape across objects in the aquarium. Here are a few less common problems you will experience with your angelfish:

Cloudy eyes. Cloudy eyes are never a good sign in fish. They’re indicative of a larger bacteria, fungus, or parasitic infection. Cloudy eyes are caused by poor water quality and can be treated with consistent water changes and light medication treatment.
Gill flukes. These are parasites that take over the fish’s gills and cause inflammation, difficulty breathing, and secondary infections. Gill flukes are a little more difficult to treat than affected fish experiencing cloudy eyes and can require medication, dips, and consistent water changes.
Hexamita. Another parasitic infection, Hexamita causes hole in the head for angels. This is caused by water quality and can be treated by removing carbon from the aquarium, medications, and water changes.

When picking out your new fish, find angelfish that are bright in color, round in the head, and with clear eyes. If possible, ask the employees at the pet stores to feed the fish in front of you. There should be no hesitation to eat. Once home, quarantine your angels accordingly.

Conclusion

Angelfish are cichlids first and community fish second. Forget that and your neon tetras disappear.

Angels are very popular fish for a good reason! They are easy to care for, beautiful in color, and a statement piece for any freshwater aquarium. It is slightly challenging to find suitable tank mates for angels, but they do well on their own, in pairs, or with large, moderately active species. When kept in pairs, they’re easy and rewarding to breed!

South American Cichlid Species Directory

This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

April 16, 2023

30 Popular Tropical Fish Species: A Guide to the Best Options for Your Tank

Tropical fish were how I got into this hobby, and after 25+ years and a lot of tanks, I still think a freshwater tropical setup is one of the most rewarding things you can do in this hobby. The variety alone is wild. schooling tetras, large cichlids, oddballs, planted tanks, biotopes. There’s genuinely something for every skill level and every taste.

This guide covers 30 of the most popular tropical species you’ll come across, with honest notes on which ones are truly beginner-friendly and which ones get sold as “easy” but have requirements that can trip you up if you’re not prepared.

Key Takeaways

Tropical fish need an electric heater in their tank to stay warm.
There’s a tropical fish species for you, no matter how big your tank and your budget are.
Many freshwater tropical fish can live together, but it’s important to research each fish’s temperament and diet to avoid any accidents.
Fish aren’t the only amazing creatures that live in fish tanks. Amphibians and invertebrates make great pets too!

What Are Tropical Freshwater Fish?

Fish are the most diverse group of vertebrate organisms on the planet (by a long way!), and the tropics have the most variety of all. Freshwater tropical fish are simply the species that come from freshwater bodies like rivers and lakes near the Earth’s equator.

These areas stay warm throughout the year, and abundant rain creates plenty of habitats for these fish to thrive. Freshwater tropical fish often have bright colors and exotic features, and many of these fish do great in home aquariums, provided we can keep the water in their tank warm like their wild home.

There are just so many different tropical fish species that we need a way to split them up into different aquarium fish categories. Let’s take a quick look at some of these groups before we get into the different species.

Schoolers and Shoalers

Many tropical fish species are highly social, and they live in groups in the wild. These fish either hang out in schools where each individual swims in the same direction and move together, or in shoals, where they stay near each other but do their own thing until it’s time to move on.

Schooling and shoaling fish make great aquarium fish, but it’s important to keep enough of them to form their own little school and feel safe together.

Centerpiece Specimens

Some fish are perfectly happy to live on their own, and these species can make great freshwater aquarium fish too. These fish might be the biggest, coolest fish in a tropical community tank, or have the aquarium all to themself as a ‘wet pet’.

Centerpiece fish are often more time-consuming fish, but they are also the most rewarding fish you can keep!

Bottom Dwellers

Bottom dwellers might sound like an insult to some, but there’s a whole world of amazing freshwater aquarium fish species that spend their lives on the bottom of the tank!

These fish often benefit aquariums by cleaning up scraps and wasted food that the other species miss, and they tend to have really weird and interesting body shapes. However, bottom-dwellers usually favor camouflage over bright colors so that they can blend in with their environments.

Peaceful vs. Aggressive Types

Different tropical fish species have different ways of interacting with the other fish. Some fish are highly territorial and do not allow other fish to approach their turf, while others are peaceful and get along great with friends and neighbors.

Sometimes aggressive fish can live with other aggressive fish because they are tough enough to defend themselves, but peaceful community fish do not mix well with aggressive or territorial fish. Placing them together will put your prized pets at risk of getting bullied, eaten, or killed!

Tropical Freshwater Fish Species – 30 Amazing Types!

Are you ready to learn about some awesome freshwater tropical fish? There are way too many species to cover in this article alone, but let’s start out by getting to know the 30 best types that you can keep. I also included a video from our YouTube Channel to help visualize. Our blog post goes into more details so please look at both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe!

I’ve included the following important facts about each group to help you decide which fish are best for you:

Fish Family
Fish Type
Temperament
Care Level
Size Range
Special Features

Here we go!

1. Arowanas

Fish Family: Osteoglossidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Aggressive
Care Level: Expert
Size Range: 2 – 3 feet
Special Features: Huge size and dragon-like scales

We’re kicking off this list with a true monster fish, just to show you what is possible in the tropical fish-keeping hobby. Arowanas are time-consuming and expensive aquarium fish that need huge aquariums, but boy are they beautiful!

These aggressive fish have huge mouths, and that means any fish that is small enough to eat will probably end up as lunch. Nevertheless, these unique tropical fish can make wonderful pets for experienced fishkeepers.

2. African Cichlids

Fish Family: Cichlidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Semi-aggressive or aggressive
Care Level: Intermediate
Size Range: 1.5 – 16 inches
Special Features: Amazing colors and fascinating breeding behaviors

African Cichlids fall into an in-between category. They make an awesome community species, but they certainly are not peaceful community fish!

These fish have some of the most vibrant colors in the hobby, and their high activity levels make them the first choice for aquarists who want a busy tropical fish tank.

African cichlids tend to be highly territorial, and they will fight and even kill each other if you keep the wrong species, in the wrong numbers, or in the wrong tank setup. They also need hard, high-pH water to thrive, so they aren’t the best choice for beginners.

3. Bettas

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Betta Fish

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Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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Fish Family: Osphronemidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish, Labyrinth fish
Temperament: Aggressive to their own kind and fish that look like them
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 2 – 2.5 inches
Special Features: Great beginner fish for small aquariums

There are many wild species of betta fish, but the Betta splendens, or the Siamese fighting fish is the most popular. These awesome little tropical fish are perfect for small aquariums, and you can find them in pretty much any pet store.

The male betta fish is usually more colorful, but females make great pets too. The most important rule is to keep just one betta fish in a tank, these fish love to fight!

4. Barbs

Fish Family: Cyprinidae
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to intermediate
Size Range: 2 – 14 inches
Special Features: Beautiful fish with glossy scales and a range of colors and patterns

Aquarium barbs are a popular group of tropical aquarium fish for many reasons. Most are peaceful schooling or shoaling fish that are ideal beginner fish and very affordable. Some, like the tiger barb, can be pretty mean though, and these aren’t always a good choice for community tanks.

Some of the best species are the cherry barbs, the golden barbs, and the Odessa barbs, but if you have enough room, the tinfoil barb is great too!

5. Bichirs

Fish Family: Polypteridae
Fish Type: Bottom dweller/ centerpiece fish
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Care Level: Intermediate
Size Range: up to 20 inches
Special Features: Dinosaur-like appearance and large size

Bichirs are strange, prehistoric-looking tropical fish from Africa. There are several species, although the Senegal bichir is the most popular in the aquarium trade. They will eat any small fish that they can swallow, so keep them with other larger tank mates.

Bichirs can grow huge, and live for over 40 years with good care. Keeping them healthy in the long term is going to require a huge aquarium and serious commitment. Still, these fish are definitely worth considering if you want a truly unique tropical fish pet!

6. Cory Catfish

Fish Family: Callichthyidae
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 1 – 4 inches
Special Features: Peaceful community fish with fun schooling behavior

Originally from the tropical waters of South America, the corydoras catfish is now a popular freshwater aquarium fish all over the world. These fish are incredibly peaceful, so they get along great with pretty much every other tropical fish that is not big enough to eat them!

There are loads of different species, including the tiny pygmy cory and the elegant emerald cory catfish, and all are social schooling fish. That means you’ll need a group of at least 6 of these calm fish to see them at their best.

7. Danios

Fish Family: Cyprinidae
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 0.8 – 6 inches
Special Features: Peaceful, hardy, and energetic fish for community tanks

Danios are energetic shoaling fish from the same family as barbs and goldfish. There are many species, ranging from the delicate celestial pearl danio to the high-speed zebrafish.

Most danios are tiny fish, but they can be very active and often need plenty of swimming space.

8. Discus

Fish Family: Cichlidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Moderate
Size Range: 4 – 8 inches
Special Features: Unique disk shape, various breeds with amazing colors

Few fish have the amazing variety of colors and patterns of the discus fish. These peaceful cichlids are also known as the kings of all freshwater fish in the freshwater hobby. These shy fish need special care, are delicate, and are not recommended for beginners.

9. Dwarf Cichlids

Fish Family: Cichlidae
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers, centerpiece fish
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to intermediate
Size Range: 2 – 4 inches
Special Features: Smaller and more peaceful than larger African and New World cichlids

The dwarf cichlids have a number of benefits over their larger cousins. These small fish can be kept in just 30 gallons, and they tend to be more peaceful, while still having great looks and interesting behaviors.

There are many great species of dwarf cichlids in the hobby, but cockatoo cichlids (Apistogramma), rams (Mikrogeophagus), and kribs (Pelvicachromis) are the big names in this group.

10. Freshwater Angelfish

Fish Family: Cichlidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Generally peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 6 inches long & 8 inches tall
Special Features: Round, flattened body with huge triangular fins.

The freshwater angelfish is another peaceful South American cichlid that comes in a variety of breeds. The great thing about these large fish is that they thrive in community aquariums and can even live safely with smaller schooling fish like tetras and rainbow fish.

11. Freshwater Catfish

Fish Family: Siluriformes
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to advanced
Size Range: 3 inches to 3 feet
Special Features: Long cat-like whiskers

Freshwater catfish are another diverse group of fascinating, and often very large tropical fish. These interesting bottom dwellers rarely have bright colors, but many species have awesome markings and patterns.

Popular aquarium species include the shoaling transparent glass catfish of Asia, the Synodontis catfish of Africa, which includes the strange upside-down catfish, and the spotted pictus catfish of South America.

Catfish are generally peaceful fish, although species with large mouths will eat other fish. Some catfish grow really huge, so always do your research before you leave the shop with a baby catfish!

12. Freshwater Gobies

Freshwater Goby — Image Source – **Florida Museum**

Fish Family: Gobiidae
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful – aggressive
Care Level: Easy-moderate
Size Range: 2 – 24 inches
Special Features: Interesting oddball fish

Gobies are one of the most diverse groups of fish on the planet, and yet there are few species available in the freshwater aquarium trade.

Fortunately, these interesting fish are becoming more popular, and today you can find everything from small, brightly colored algae eaters to large, dangerous-looking creatures like the dragon goby.

Many of the popular freshwater aquarium gobies will do best in brackish conditions, so make sure the species you choose will be happy in your tank.

13. Freshwater Eels

Fish Family: Mastacembelidae etc.
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Intermediate
Size Range: 8 – 40 inches
Special Features: Snake-like body and interesting markings

There are a few groups of freshwater eels in the aquarium, and many of them are not true eels at all! The most popular types are from a fascinating group of snake-like fish that include the tire-track, fire, and spiny eels.

These odd-ball fish come from Africa and Asia, and they make a fascinating centerpiece or bottom dweller fish in many tropical aquarium types.

14. Freshwater Sharks

Fish Family: Cyprinidae
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
Care Level: Moderate to advanced
Size Range: 5 – 14 inches
Special Features: Dramatic shark-like fins and body shape

Freshwater sharks are a group of popular tropical fish that don’t exactly live up to their more iconic saltwater fish namesake. While they may have a shark-like body shape, these fish do not have the sharp teeth or leathery skin of true sharks.

The most popular freshwater sharks are rainbow sharks, bala sharks, and red-tail sharks. Some of these fish have naturally bold colors, but check out the Glofish Sharks if you want a fish that really shines!

15. Freshwater Stingrays

Fish Family: Potamotrygonidae
Fish Type: Bottom dweller
Temperament: Peaceful but potentially dangerous
Care Level: Advanced
Size Range: 30 – 36 inches
Special Features: Strange body shape and interactive personality

You might be shocked to learn that freshwater stingrays exist, and even more shocked to discover they make great pets!

However, these unusual fish are not going to fit in your standard aquarium. They are some of the most expensive aquarium fish, and their care requires high experience levels.

Stingrays require a huge floor space, but they don’t need much depth. These flat fish can be kept in indoor ponds where they become very tame and often take food from the hand. Of course, stingrays can sting, so keeping these creatures does come with some risks.

16. Freshwater Puffers

Fish Family: Tetraodontidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Semi-aggressive to aggressive
Care Level: Intermediate to Advanced
Size Range: 1 – 30 inches
Special Features: Unusual looks and swimming style

Freshwater pufferfish are another unusual group of fish that you would expect to find on a saltwater fish list. In fact, there are many freshwater species, and these adorable creatures can make wonderful pets once you understand their needs and behavior.

Freshwater puffers need hard-shelled foods to keep their sharp teeth worn down, and most species are not safe for community tanks.

17. Gouramis

Fish Family: Osphronemidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to intermediate
Size Range: 1.5 – 28 inches
Special Features: Beautiful colors and long feeler-like pelvic fins

Gourami fish range from the tiny sparkling gourami, perfect for nano aquariums, to the mighty giant gourami, a gentle monster that makes a wonderful pet if given the room it needs. Gouramis are part of the same family as betta fish, and they have the same interesting air-breathing abilities.

Gouramis are a great centerpiece fish for a tropical fish tank. The range of different colors, shapes, and sizes means there’s a gourami species for anyone!

18. Guppies

Guppy Fish

An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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Fish Family: Poeciliidae
Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
Special Features: Hardy beginner fish that’s easy to breed

Guppies are colorful fish, and they have been bred into many different types with various patterns and fin shapes. These peaceful fish add color and movement to virtually every level of a freshwater tank, and their affordability and hardiness make the an ideal choice for first-time fish keepers.

Guppies are the most common of the livebearers, a group of fish that give birth to live young instead of laying eggs. This means they are super easy to breed, which can be a really fun hobby.

19. Hatchetfish

Fish Family: Gasteropelecidae
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Intermediate to advanced
Size Range: 1.75 – 3.5 inches
Special Features: Strange flattened body shape and surface-dwelling habits

The hatchetfish is an interesting tropical fish that spends its life up at the surface of the tank. These fish escape predators by jumping out of the water, which means they need a really secure lid to prevent them from escaping onto the floor of your fish room!

20. Killifish

Fish Family: Aplocheilidae, Valenciidae, Cyprinodontidae, Fundulidae, Profundulidae
Fish Type: Shoaling fish
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy to moderate
Size Range: 1.5 – 5.5 inches
Special Features: surface-dwelling fish with amazing colors

Killifish are colorful nano fish that make fascinating pets and can thrive in tanks as small as 5 or 10 gallons. Like the hatchet fish, killis are generally surface-dwelling fish, and they can easily escape an open-top aquarium.

21. Loaches

Fish Family: Cobitoidea superfamily
Fish Type: Bottom dweller
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy to moderate
Size Range: 1 – 12 inches
Special Features: whisker-like barbels and a variety of colors and patterns.

Loaches range from tiny eel-like fish to large colorful schooling species. They all have adorable and fascinating behaviors, and they can make great pets with heaps of personality. Most loaches are tropical fish, but some species like the dojo loach prefer their water a little cooler.

Loaches are generally peaceful creatures that search for food on the bottom of the tank. They are social fish too, so pick up a small group to keep them feeling comfortable in your aquarium.

22. Mollies

Fish Family: Poeciliidae
Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 3 – 7 inches
Special Features: Hardy fish with many color morphs and fin shapes

Mollies are excellent tropical fish for everyone from beginners to experienced fish keepers. These North and Central American livebearers are hardy fish that can live in fresh, brackish, and even saltwater aquariums!

Mollies get along well with other fish, making them ideal for community aquariums. There are three popular species in the aquarium trade, with a variety of popular breeds such as the stunning Sailfin, the elegant lyretail, and the strange balloon molly.

23. New World Cichlids

Fish Family: Cichlidae
Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
Temperament: Peaceful to aggressive
Care Level: Easy to advanced
Size Range: 2 – 12 inches
Special Features: Great colors and personality

The New World Cichlids are a diverse group of tropical fish from Texas through Central and South America. These fish include the shy and colorful dwarf cichlids, the fascinating earth-eaters (Geophagus), and popular large wet pets like Oscar fish, Midas Cichlids, and Jack Dempseys.

There are so many species with different shapes, colors, and personalities that it’s impossible to describe them all here. However, one thing we can say is that there’s a great New World Cichlid for any freshwater aquarium!

24. Platies

Fish Family: Poeciliidae
Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 2 – 3 inches
Special Features: Peaceful community species that is easy to breed

Platies are another wonderful live-bearing species from Mexico and Central America. At two to three inches, these fish are in between the size of the guppy and the molly, and they can be kept with both species in awesome livebearer community tanks.

There are two platy species available in the hobby, but these fish have been selectively bred to produce a huge variety of colorful and interesting breeds like the sunset, Mickey Mouse, and wagtail platies.

25. Plecostomus

Bristlenose Pleco

The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

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Fish Family: Loricariidae
Fish Type: Bottom dweller
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy to intermediate
Size Range: 2 to 20 inches
Special Features: Armored body and various intricate patterns

Plecostomus catfish, or just plecos for short, are a large group of South American Catfish that hang out on the bottom of lakes and rivers and graze on rocks and driftwood. Plecos are great algae eaters for large aquariums, and they will help to clean the glass and other surfaces of Your tank.

There are hundreds of different pleco species out there, ranging from small pleco species like the strange-looking bristlenose at just 4 inches to the impressive common pleco that can reach 20 inches!

26. Rainbowfish

Fish Family: Melanotaeniidae, Pseudomugilidae, etc.
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 1.5 – 6 inches
Special Features: Bright colors and peaceful personality

Rainbowfish are a colorful group of tropical fish from Australia and Southeast Asia. They range in size from nano species like the spotted blue-eye rainbow at just 1.5 inches, to medium-sized fish like the popular boesemani rainbowfish.

These active fish thrive in community aquariums with great water quality and suitable tank mates. The larger species will need a tank in the 55-gallon class, but nano types can be kept in a well-planted tank of just 10 gallons or more.

27. Rasboras

Fish Family: Cyprinidae
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 0.7 – 3 inches
Special Features: Beautiful fish for nano and community aquariums

Rasboras are a group of tropical fish that includes some of the smallest and most popular species in the hobby.

Many of these Asian species are ideal beginner fish, and the tiny Boraras species like the chili rasbora are one of the few schooling fish that can thrive in a 5-gallon aquarium.

28. Swordtails

Fish Family: Poeciliidae
Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 5 – 6 inches
Special Features: Bright colors and long, sword-like tail

Swordtails are one of the larger tropical livebearer species and a great community tankmate for a variety of other fish. They are active freshwater fish that add a flash of color and movement to any aquarium.

Swordtail fish come in various shades of orange, yellow, and pink, and they can have various tail shapes. These fish breed regularly in the home aquarium, so get ready to see loads of little ones if you keep males and females together.

29. Suckermouth Catfish and other Algae Eaters

Otocinclus Catfish

A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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Fish Family: Various
Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy to intermediate
Size Range: 2- 8 inches
Special Features: Excellent algae control for planted tanks

The plecostomus catfish aren’t the only algae-eating fish in the aquarium world. Many other tropical fish will happily graze on your aquarium glass, hardscape, and plants, and the best part is that they make fascinating pets in their own right!

Look out for Otocinclus catfish (the best choice for nano aquariums), farlowella catfish (strange, twig-like bottom-dwellers), Siamese algae eaters, and flying foxes if you’re looking for great clean-up crew species for your tank.

30. Tetras

Fish Family: Characidae
Fish Type: Schooling fish
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 0.75 – 3 inches
Special Features: Dazzling colors and amazing schooling behavior

Tetras are the perfect fish for peaceful communities and planted aquascapes. There are many wonderful species available in the hobby, ranging from the world-famous neon tetra to slightly larger fish like the Congo Tetra of tropical Africa.

Tetras are schooling or shoaling fish, and they need the company of their own species to swim confidently and show their best colors. Add a school of at least 8 of these fish to your tank and enjoy these rewarding fish!

Other Creatures

Fish are the first animals that come to mind when we think about aquariums, but did you know that all sorts of other strange and beautiful creatures can live in a fish tank? Let’s check them out!

1. Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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Family: Atyidae
Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy to moderate
Size Range: 1 – 2 inches
Special Features: Wide range of breeds in various colors

Freshwater shrimp have become super popular in the aquarium hobby, and it’s easy to see why! There are many different breeds and species available, and they come in just about any color you can think of.

Freshwater shrimp are very peaceful creatures, and they are fascinating to watch as they feed and explore. Unfortunately, most fish will pick on freshwater shrimp or even swallow them whole, so it’s best to keep them in their own tank or with vegetarian species like the otocinclus catfish.

2. Aquarium Snails

Family: Ampullariidae, Neritidae, etc.
Type: Bottom-dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 1 – 4 inches
Special Features: Excellent clean-up crew and algae control animals

Aquarium Snails are another excellent aquarium invertebrate for tropical aquariums. These slow-moving creatures do great work in our tanks by eating algae, cleaning up waste, and eating leftover fish food. However, some species tend to multiply really fast!

There are many aquarium snails that do not breed in our fish tanks, and these are usually the best choices. Choose the neatly patterned and colored nerite snails if you want a small, algae-busting machine, or the much larger mystery snail for a cool display animal.

3. Aquarium Crabs

Family: Ocypodidae etc.
Type: Bottom dwellers
Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
Care Level: Moderate
Size Range: 0.4 – 1 inches
Special Features: Fascinating and unusual aquarium inhabitants

Crabs are not very common in the freshwater aquarium world, although there are some great species available if you know where to look.

Many aquarium crabs require a paludarium setup, which is a tank that incorporates both water and dry land. However, there are some fully aquatic options too like the pom-pom crab and the tiny Thai micro crabs.

4. Dwarf African Frogs

How Does an African Dwarf Frog Look Like

Family: Pipidae
Type: Bottom-dwellers/centerpiece pets
Temperament: Peaceful
Care Level: Moderate
Size Range: 2 inches
Special Features: Fully aquatic frog that can live in a small aquarium

African dwarf frogs are adorable little creatures that spend their whole lives in the water. However, they must swim to the surface to breathe air because they do not have gills like fish.

These social creatures should be kept in groups of two or more, preferably in a shallow aquarium. They are tropical creatures, so they need an aquarium heater and an aquarium filter to keep their water warm and clean.

5. Crayfish

Family: Cambaridae etc.
Type: Bottom dweller
Temperament: Aggressive
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 1 – 6 inches
Special Features: Bright colors and unique body shape

Freshwater crayfish are probably the most colorful freshwater aquarium invertebrates in the hobby. These cool crustaceans have powerful claws, and they will use them on unsuspecting fish, so their tank mates need to be chosen with care!

6. Axolotls

Family: Ambystomatidae
Type: Centerpiece pet
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Care Level: Easy
Size Range: 9 – 12 inches
Special Features: Strange spiky gills and a smiling face

We’ve saved the strangest tropical fish tank inhabitant for last. The Axolotl is also known as the Mexican walking fish, but this creature is not a fish at all!

Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders that do great in fish tanks. These interesting animals are not truly tropical though, so give them their own tank with stable water temperatures of 60-64°F to keep them cool and comfortable.

FAQs

What fish are considered tropical fish?

Tropical fish are any species that come from a warm part of the world. There is no hard rule about the exact temperatures, but most species are comfortable in 74 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

These fish usually require an electric aquarium heater to keep their water temperature in the right range, unless you live in a tropical part of the world.

Are tropical fish hard to keep?

Tropical freshwater fish species are among the easiest type of fish to keep and the best option for beginners to the aquarium hobby. Of course, each fish species has its own care requirements, and some are much easier than others.

All species need a big enough tank, good aquarium filtration, and a balanced diet. Most of the popular small fish species will thrive on a simple flake food diet supplemented with live or frozen foods like brine shrimp.

What fish should I put in my tropical tank?

The great thing about tropical fish is the huge variety of species available. There are a couple of questions to ask yourself before choosing fish for your aquarium.

Is my aquarium big enough for this fish?
Will this fish get along with my other fish?
Can I provide the right care and food for this fish?
Do I like the look and behavior of this species?

If you can answer yes to all of those questions, you might just have the perfect species for your tank!

What is the most popular tropical fish?

Guppies, bettas, and tetras are probably the most popular tropical fish species in the world. Of course, with so many amazing fish species available, most aquarists have their own lists of favorite fish!

What is the most hardy tropical fish?

Zebra danios and Livebearers like mollies and guppies are considered especially hardy tropical fish that are great for beginners. However, all fish species deserve the best water quality, care, and diet that you can provide.

Final Thoughts

Well, there you have it folks, 30 amazing tropical fish types, and 6 other fascinating aquatic creatures for your fish tank. We fishkeepers really are spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing our pets.

Oh, and remember, we have loads of in-depth articles on many of these species on our website, so get browsing for more information!

What’s your favorite tropical fish type? Let us know in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

April 15, 2023

Yellow Lab Cichlid Care Guide: One of the Best MBunas for Beginners

Yellow lab cichlids are the best mbuna for beginners, but beginner friendly does not mean easy. They still need hard, alkaline water, proper overstocking to manage aggression, and a rock structure that prevents line of sight between males. Skip any of those and you will see aggression, stress, and faded color. I have recommended yellow labs as a first African cichlid for over 20 years, but only to people willing to set up the tank correctly first. The on-ramp to the African cichlid addiction that hooks everyone.

The on-ramp to the African cichlid addiction that hooks everyone.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Yellow Lab Cichlid

The number one mistake I see with yellow labs is people buying them thinking they’re a peaceful community fish because of their color and relatively calm reputation. They’re still mbuna. They’re still territorial. And in a tank that’s too small or under-stocked, they’ll bully other fish just like any other mbuna would. The “peaceful mbuna” label is relative. They’re peaceful compared to kenyi or auratus, not compared to tetras or corydoras. The other common issue is hybridization. Yellow labs readily crossbreed with other mbuna in mixed tanks, producing dull hybrid offspring that dilute the beautiful yellow coloring that made them popular in the first place.

That said, “easy to keep” only holds true if you’re running the right conditions. Hard, alkaline water, a low-protein diet to avoid Malawi bloat, and proper territory structure in the tank. Get those right and yellow labs are an absolute pleasure to keep. Here’s everything you need to know.

The Reality of Keeping Yellow Lab Cichlid

Yellow Labs are the most recommended beginner mbuna for good reason. But even the easiest African cichlid comes with requirements you cannot skip.

They need hard, alkaline water. Lake Malawi chemistry means pH between 7.8 and 8.6, high GH, and high KH. If your tap water is soft and acidic, you need to buffer it. Every water change. No exceptions.

They are herbivores. Yellow Labs need a spirulina-based diet. Feeding them high-protein foods like bloodworms regularly leads to Malawi Bloat, which is often fatal. Stick to spirulina flakes and algae-based pellets.

Males color up, females stay pale. Only male Yellow Labs develop that intense electric yellow color. Females are duller and more subdued. If you want a tank full of bright yellow fish, you need males, but too many males means fighting.

Overstocking is part of the strategy. With mbuna, you overstock to spread aggression. A tank with three Yellow Labs will have one bully and two victims. A tank with 12 will have distributed aggression and happier fish. But overstocking demands heavy filtration.

Biggest Mistake New Yellow Lab Cichlid Owners Make

Feeding them protein-heavy foods. Yellow Labs are herbivores, and Malawi Bloat from improper diet kills more labs than anything else. Spirulina flakes and veggie pellets. That is the foundation. No bloodworms as a staple.

Expert Take

Start with a group of 8 to 12 in a 55 gallon tank. Use crushed coral or aragonite substrate to buffer pH naturally. Feed spirulina-based food exclusively. This simple setup will give you one of the most vibrant, active tanks in the hobby.

Key Takeaways

The Yellow lab cichlid is a mouthbrooder. Meaning the female carries fertilized eggs and fry in her mouth until they are big enough to survive on their own.
They are carnivores in the wild and feed on small invertebrates and algae. However, in captivity, they are omnivores and eat a varied diet.
They have been selectively bred resulting in a range of different colors and patterns
The male yellow lab cichlid is larger in size and more colorful than its female counterparts.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Labidochromis caeruleus
Common Names	Yellow Lab, Electric yellow cichlid, lemon drop cichlid
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	East African Central Western coastal region of Lake Malawi
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Medium
Lifespan	8 to 10 years
Temperament	Semi-Aggressive
Tank Level	Bottom
Minimum Tank Size	30 gallons
Temperature Range	76 – 82°F
Water Hardness	10-20 dGH
pH Range	7.8 to 8.6
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to high
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer/Mouthbrooder
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Limited, African Cichlid only
OK, for Planted Tanks?	With Caution

Classification

Kingdom	Animalia
Phylum	Chordata
Class	Actinopterygii
Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Genus	Labidochromis
Species	L. Caeruleus (Fryer, 1956)

Brief Introduction

Yellow lab cichlids, commonly known as Electric yellow cichlids and yellow labs are popular freshwater fish that originates from Lake Malawi in East Africa.

They are known for their super bright yellow coloration and smaller fish size that is easy to maintain and a treat to watch in your home aquariums. Yellow lab cichlids are beginner friendly fish with unique breeding behavior where the male fish establishes and defends its territories and females lay their eggs on flat surfaces.

Overall, yellow lab cichlids are an excellent and beautiful addition to your home aquariums that add opulence and life wherever they go.

Origin & Habitat

The electric yellow cichlids are found in the rocky banks and heavily vegetated regions of Lake Malawi. Originally, the yellow lab cichlid is from the Nkata Bay of Lake Malawi, which is the home of other African Cichlids. In their natural habitat, these fish mostly dwell in the rocks and reaches a length of around 8 inches.

By the end of 1986, the yellow African cichlid was available to buy for aquarium hobbyists. Shortly after, they became popular freshwater fish known for their aesthetic appearance and peaceful nature (for an African Cichlid).

The name, Labidochromis Caeruleus, was given to a blue fish because it was discovered blue in color. However, the yellow color morph was later found along the North East coast of African lakes, now known as electric yellow cichlids¹.

Map showing Lake Malawi and the African Great Lakes region — Map by MellonDor, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Appearance

The Yellow Lab Cichlid’s body is a bright yellow in color, giving them a stunning look. They have an extended, thin body structure, a head that is somewhat pointed, and a prominent forehead. They have longer fins as well, with the dorsal fin reaching all the way back to the tail. Males often outweigh females in size and color, with brighter yellow coloring and longer fins. Females often have a paler color and are smaller.

The young Yellow lab cichlids may have somewhat different patterns from those of adults, but they fade as they get older. Furthermore, some breeders have deliberately bred these fish in an effort to improve particular characteristics, including fin form or color, leading to a variety of various strains and varieties. The Yellow Lab Cichlid is a stunning fish that can give a splash of color to any aquarium

Average Adult Size

The yellow lab cichlids are small fish that grow around a maximum of 5 inches in length for males. The female electric yellow cichlid grows around 3 to 4 inches. However, in some rare cases, they may grow around 6 inches and over, depending on their diet, water quality, and tank size.

Lifespan

The life expectancy of yellow lab cichlids is around 8 to 10 years in captivity. But, they may live for up to 12 years, provided with proper care, a healthy diet, and water conditions.

Food & Diet

Yellow lab cichlids are carnivorous fish in the wild. However, in captivity, they are omnivores. Therefore, their diet should mainly be protein based. High quality fish flakes and fish pellets that are formulated for African cichlids are highly recommended. You can also feed them premium quality frozen foods such as brine shrimp, bloodworms, and krill as occasional treats.

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Additionally, it’s important to add plant-based treats to your yellow lab cichlid’s diet, including zucchini, shelled peas, spinach, and lettuce. This food provides necessary nutritional benefits and helps them in consuming a varied diet.

How Often Do You Feed Yellow Lab Cichlids and How Much?

Avoid overfeeding your yellow lab cichlid and maintain a proper schedule to feed yellow lab cichlids as they overeat and become overweight, leading to health issues. It’s recommended to feed them a small amount of food only twice or thrice a day.

Anything they can consume within two to three minutes is a general rule of thumb to feed yellow lab cichlids.

Temperament and Behavior

Overall the yellow labs are a species of peaceful and shy cichlid, but during the breeding process, they will become aggressive and territorial. It’s recommended to keep a group of 6 or more fish to alleviate their aggression toward other fish.

Yellow lab cichlids are also active swimmers and appreciate lots of hiding places and open spaces in their fish tanks. Since they are known for their digging behavior, it’s important to supply their tank with plenty of decorations and high-quality substrate.

Yellow Lab Cichlid Tank Mates

Yellow lab cichlids are mildly peaceful fish that are compatible with other like-minded fish species. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose suitable tank mates for yellow lab cichlids.

Some of the best-suited tank mates for electric yellow cichlids are:

Other African cichlids species, including yellow tail Acei cichlids, Peacock cichlids, Red Zebra cichlids, Johanni cichlids, blue dolphin cichlids
Synodontis catfish
Jewel Cichlid
Red Tail Sharks

Tank Mates to Avoid

Here are the tank mates you should always avoid keeping with yellow lab cichlids.

Aggressive, larger fish that are territorial. For example, Red Devil cichlid, Jaguar cichlid, Green Terror cichlid, Oscars, or Arowanas.
Nippy fish, including some species of barbs and tetras.
Small invertebrates, such as shrimp or snails.
Any fish incompatible with their pH requirements

Complete Care Guide

Yellow lab cichlids are colorful fish that are easy to care for. Despite being low maintenance, they demand basic tank and water requirements to thrive in captivity.

They are also omnivores in captivity, so a varied diet is essential, along with color-enhancing commercial foods to maintain their vibrant colors.

Like all other cichlids, they require regular maintenance and upkeep with stable water parameters to remain happy and healthy. Let’s dive it Yellow Lab Cichlid Care below.

Tank Requirements

Here are the basic tank requirements to provide a suitable and comfortable environment for your yellow lab cichlid.

Tank Size

Since yellow lab cichlids are community fish that thrive with their other cichlids and compatible fish of different species, a tank size of at least 30 gallons is the bare minimum. However, long term this will cause problems with territorial aggression.

If you want to have a group of around 8 to 12 cichlids, a larger tank or around 55 gallons is a good size.

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Live Plants

Yellow lab cichlids are active fish and are known to be aggressive toward live plants. Therefore, live plants are not the best choice for your electric yellow cichlids.

However, if you still want to keep live plants for the sake of their beautiful aesthetics, there are some options that are “cichlid-proof”. These include:

Anubias
Java Fern
Vallisneria
Amazon Sword
Crinum
Echinodorus
Cryptocorynes

While some of these plants will get beat up or eaten, the most bulletproof against these cichlids would be Anubias and Java fern.

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Tank Decorations

The yellow lab cichlid prefers a tank with caves and enough hiding spots. You can pile rocks into the bottom of the tank, especially when your fish are spawning. That’s because yellow lab cichlids are native to Lake Malawi where there are lots of rocks to build their territories. However, make sure the rocks are not pointed enough to hurt your finned pets.

Other recommended tank decorations are:

Limestone rocks (get for maintaining pH and hardness)
Plastic plants
Terracotta pots
Ceramic caves

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Substrate

Yellow lab cichlids stay at the bottom of the tank, so the choice of premium substrate is crucial.

You can use sand as the best option because Lake Malawi’s bottom is covered in sand. Therefore, using sand will replicate their natural habitat and keep them happy.

Additionally, crushed coral helps maintain the pH levels in your tank by releasing Calcium carbonate into the water. Thus, it’s also a great option for the substrate. Fine gravel can also be used as a substrate.

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If you want to keep your tank bare bottom for easy maintenance and cleaning, you can do that too. However, it will be unnatural and uncomfortable for your Yellow labs.

Is the Yellow Lab Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

The best beginner mbuna, hands down. If you want to try African cichlids and start with Malawi mbuna, this is the species to begin with.
Brilliant electric yellow color. Few freshwater fish offer this intensity of yellow. They genuinely pop in any setup.
Still need a proper mbuna setup. Minimum 55 gallons with lots of rock work, alkaline water, and appropriate stocking levels.
Best kept with other mild-mannered mbuna or peacocks. Avoid mixing with highly aggressive mbuna species that will outcompete them.
Not suitable for standard community tanks. Despite being calm for mbuna, they’re still too territorial for most tropical community setups.
Easy to breed but hard to keep pure. They’ll hybridize with other mbuna, so keep species separated if you want to maintain pure lines.

Tank Maintenance

Though Yellow Labs fish are hardy and require little maintenance but regular tank cleaning and maintenance are required to keep them healthy for a long.

Filtration and Aeration

Proper filtration is an important step to maintaining a healthy ecosystem for your Yellow lab cichlid.

I recommend installing a filter that is suitable for your tank size and the number of fish you have. Any filter with a turnover rate of around 4 to 6 times the tank volume per hour is ideal for Yellow lab cichlids. You can choose a canister filter, HOB, or sponge filter. However, it’s crucial to clean and replace the filter media regularly.

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I also advise putting an air pump or wavemaker in the tank as these species love a well-oxygenated environment. Essentially, you can use sponge filters as they provide filtration and aeration both.

Water Parameters

The ideal water parameters for yellow lab cichlids are as follows:

Water temperature: Between 76-82°F

pH range: 7.8 to 8.6

Water hardness: 10-20 dGH

Tank Maintenance

Tank maintenance is the key to a healthy aquarium. It’s crucial to maintain water temperature. Therefore, I recommend investing in an aquarium thermometer and quality heater to monitor the temperature.

You should perform weekly 25% to 30% water changes to prevent the buildup of fish waste or toxins. In addition to water changes, cleaning the filter and gravel is also important to remove uneaten food and debris.

Breeding

Fun Fact: Yellow lab cichlids are mouth breeders, meaning they keep their young in their mouths until they are ready to hatch.

To reduce the tension in females, I recommend keeping 1 male for every 3 to 6 females. Even though the yellow labs are passive for a cichlid, they will become territorial during breeding.

Here’s how you breed them in a separate tank.

Separate the mature females and one male in a breeding tank.
Fill in the tank with cold water to drop the temperature and stimulate mating.
Feed them protein rich, high quality food free of hormones or unnatural color enhancers
After spawning, when the fry hatch and are free swimming, separate the mother into another tank.
Feed the fry high quality protein rich food to promote healthy growth.

Fish Diseases

Unlike many African cichlids, the electric yellow cichlid is very hardy and less susceptible to Malawi bloat. However, if the water temperature and water conditions are not in pristine conditions, they may be infected with Ich, skin flukes, and other parasitic infections, fungal infections, and bacterial infections.

Therefore, it is necessary to maintain water conditions as per the fish’s preferences and feed them high-quality diet to avoid those diseases.

FAQs

Are Yellow Labs Cichlids Aggressive?

No, Yellow Lab Cichlids are not overly aggressive fish. However, they becomes territorial and semi-aggressive in a small tank with 2 or more males.

Are Yellow Lab Cichlids good for beginners?

Yes, they are ideal for beginners because they are hardy, beautiful, and tolerate a wide range of water conditions. Also, they are peaceful fish as long as you provide them with the right environment and suitable tank mates.

How Much Do Yellow Lab Cichlids Cost?

The total cost of Yellow lab cichlid depends on a variety of factors, including size, age, quality, etc. On average, young fish may cost you around $5 to $10 per fish. However, adult breeding pairs will cost between $20 to $30.

How Big Do Yellow Lab Cichlids Get?

They are small-to-medium-sized fish that grow approximately 4 to 5 inches in length. The male Yellow Lab Cichlids are slightly larger and more colorful than the females.

How long do they live?

The average lifespan of yellow lab cichlids is 8 to 10 years in captivity.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Yellow Lab Cichlid

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They are always moving. Yellow Labs are active, curious fish that patrol every inch of the tank. They pick at rocks, sift through substrate, and interact with each other constantly. A mbuna tank is never boring.

The yellow really pops. Under the right lighting, a dominant male Yellow Lab is one of the most intensely colored freshwater fish you will ever see. That electric yellow against a dark rock background is stunning.

They breed like rabbits. Yellow Labs are maternal mouthbrooders that breed readily in captivity. If you have males and females, you will have babies. Lots of babies. Have a plan for the fry.

They establish a hierarchy fast. Within days of adding Yellow Labs to a tank, a dominant male emerges. He gets the best territory, the most color, and first dibs on food. Subordinate males stay paler and stick to the edges.

How the Yellow Lab Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

The most relevant comparison is with peacock cichlids. Both are Lake Malawi natives, but they occupy different niches. Yellow labs are rock-dwelling mbuna that need lots of stone structure and are herbivorous. Peacocks are open-water swimmers that prefer sandy substrates and eat more protein. Yellow labs are more aggressive pound-for-pound, but their smaller size (4-5 inches vs. 6-7 for peacocks) means they’re less physically imposing. For beginners, yellow labs are easier to find and cheaper, but peacocks offer more color variety. They is mixed in larger tanks (75+ gallons), but you need to make sure the yellow labs don’t harass the more docile peacocks.

The kribensis cichlid is worth considering if you want a colorful, smaller cichlid but aren’t committed to a full Malawi setup. Kribs are West African, tolerate a wider range of water parameters, and work in more traditional community tanks. They’re not as intensely colored as yellow labs but they’re far more versatile in terms of tank setup options.

Final Thoughts

The Yellow lab cichlid is a beautiful freshwater fish that stays happily in a community tank of like-minded fish species. Despite being beautiful, hardy, and low maintenance, they are beginner friendly. Hence, if you’re new to the aquarium hobby, congratulations on finding your perfect bright finned pal!

Lake Malawi Cichlid Species Directory

This article is part of our Lake Malawi Cichlid Species Directory: Complete A-Z Care Guide List. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 28 Lake Malawi cichlid species we cover.

How to Tell If a Goldfish Is Male or Female (5 Reliable Ways)

Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect. outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

Key Takeaways

Goldfish are relatively easy to breed, but their intense care requirements and large brood sizes should be considered before attempting to do so.
Male fish are smaller yet brighter in coloration and may display breeding tubercles. Female goldfish may develop a noticeable vent and grow rounder in body shape but lack tubercles.
Goldfish are egg scatterers that will eat their eggs once done with the spawning process. Because of this, they do best when bred in a separate tank with controlled settings.

Introduction To Goldfish

Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.

However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.

It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

Can They Be Both Genders?

No, goldfish are not hermaphrodites. This means that when they are born, they are born one gender and stay that gender for the entirety of their lives.

Can They Change Genders?

No, the gender of your goldfish cannot change. While some tropical fish can change their gender based on changing environmental circumstances, goldfish will stay either male or female for their entire life.

Introduction To Breeding

Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

Why Are They Chasing Each Other?

As mentioned before, male goldfish will chase females when they’re ready to spawn. This is considered a dancing behavior that encourages the female to release her eggs. However, this can become overwhelming for the female if the male is especially persistent.

If your male goldfish is chasing your female goldfish outside of the breeding season, then there could be a problem regarding space, water quality, or compatibility. These fish may need to be separated at this point.

How Do You Know If Your Fish Is Pregnant?

Goldfish do not become pregnant. Goldfish are egg scatterers. This means that when ready, the female goldfish will release her eggs into the water column for the male the fertilize them. These are sticky eggs that can get caught on live plants, aquarium equipment, or other spawning aids.

However, female goldfish tend to become rounder in body shape when they’re full of unfertilized eggs. This can definitely give them the appearance of being pregnant though they’re not actually carrying goldfish fry.

How Do You Know When They Are Laying Eggs?

Goldfish eggs are macroscopic and easily seen by the human eye. Eggs that are white or clear in color are unfertilized. Fertilized eggs are light brown or yellow in color. As the fertilized eggs develop, a noticeable dark spot will grow in the center of the egg.

There are many obvious signs that your male and female goldfish are ready to spawn, including physical and behavioral changes. When ready, you will see the female releasing her eggs.

How To Breed Them

The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

Aquarium Setup

In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54° F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74° F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

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Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

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Spawning

Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

Raising The Fry

Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

Conclusion

Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

References

Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

April 2, 2023

Red Devil Cichlid Care Guide: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

Red devil cichlids earn their name. They’re large, bold, and genuinely aggressive. And in 25+ years I’ve seen plenty of them rehomed by people who underestimated just how much personality (and destruction) one fish can bring to a tank. That’s not a knock against the species. It just means they’re a commitment, not an afterthought.

The fish that needs its own tank, its own filter, and its own insurance policy.

The Red Devil does not share. It does not compromise. It owns the tank, and everything in it is either food or a target.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Red Devil Cichlid

The most common misconception about red devil cichlids is confusing them with Midas cichlids (Amphilophus citrinellus). Most fish sold as “red devils” in stores are actually Midas cichlids or hybrids between the two species. True red devils (Amphilophus labiatus) have noticeably thicker lips and a slightly different body shape. This matters because their temperaments differ. True red devils are even more aggressive than Midas cichlids, which is saying something. The other myth is that their aggression is managed by adding more fish. Unlike mbuna where overstocking can spread aggression, adding more fish to a red devil tank just gives them more targets.

The Reality of Keeping Red Devil Cichlid
Key Takeaways
Fish Species Overview
Classification
Origins
Appearance
How Big Can They Get?
How Long Do They Live?
What Do They Eat?
Temperament and Behavior
Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates
Care
Tank Requirements
Water Quality And Filtration
Breeding
Health And Disease
Where To Buy
FAQs
Final Thoughts

Red devil cichlids are among the most aggressive freshwater fish in the hobby. They will kill tank mates, bite your hand during maintenance, and rearrange everything in the tank on a daily basis. This fish does not coexist with anything. I have seen red devils crack heater guards and move rocks that weigh more than they do. If you want a pet with personality, this delivers. If you want a peaceful tank, look elsewhere. The fish that bites back and means it.

The Reality of Keeping Red Devil Cichlid

There is no sugarcoating this. Red Devils are demanding, aggressive, and destructive. Here is what owning one actually looks like.

They destroy everything. Heaters, thermometers, decorations, plants. If a Red Devil can move it, it will. If it cannot move it, it will try. Use external heaters, protected equipment, and heavy rocks that cannot be displaced.

Tank mates are not an option. Most Red Devils end up as solo fish because they attack and kill everything else in the tank. Some keepers have success with similarly-sized aggressive cichlids in very large tanks (150+ gallons), but this is the exception, not the rule.

They bite. Red Devils will bite your hand during water changes and maintenance. This is not playful nipping. They have strong jaws and it hurts. Use caution or tools during tank maintenance.

They need massive filtration. A 12 inch Red Devil produces an enormous amount of waste. You need canister filtration rated for at least double your tank size, and water changes of 30 to 50 percent weekly are mandatory, not optional.

Biggest Mistake New Red Devil Cichlid Owners Make

Buying one as a juvenile and thinking you can keep it with other fish. That cute 3 inch baby will be an 12 inch tank terror within a year, and by then your other fish are already dead or traumatized.

Expert Take

If you want a Red Devil, plan for a 75 gallon species-only tank from day one. Invest in a canister filter rated for twice the tank volume. Accept that this is a solo pet fish with a personality closer to a dog than a typical aquarium fish. If that sounds like your kind of challenge, a Red Devil will not disappoint.

Key Takeaways

The red devil cichlid is a large, aggressive freshwater fish that needs a large tank
They grow over 12 inches with males being larger
They make wonderful pets for experienced fish keepers, but they are known to attack other fish and even bite human hands
It is easiest to keep the red devil cichlid in its own tank without other fish

Fish Species Overview

Scientific Name	Amphilophus labiatus
Common Names	Red devil cichlid
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	Nicaragua, Central America
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	High
Lifespan	10 to 12 years
Temperament	Aggressive
Tank Level	All levels
Minimum Tank Size	75 gallons
Temperature Range	70 – 78 °F
Water Hardness	6 – 25 dGH
pH Range	6.0 – 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to high
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Limited, Species-only tank
OK, for Planted Tanks?	No

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Red Devil Cichlid
Scientific Name	Amphilophus labiatus
Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Genus	Amphilophus
Species	A. Labiatus

Origins

The red devil cichlid is native to Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua, two large freshwater lakes in the Central American country of Nicaragua. These Nicaraguan lakes provide naturally warm waters throughout the year.

These feisty fish have been introduced to a few places in the world, and wild populations exist in Florida and Hawaii today.

Appearance

The red devil cichlid is a large, attractive freshwater fish that comes in a range of colors. Wild fish are often gray or dark brown but specimens in the aquarium trade stand out with white, yellow, orange, and even bright red shades.

They may be a single color or a combination, with many fish having attractive spots and patterns. Many specimens change color as they mature, so a full-grown adult may look quite different from when you first bought it.

Male red devil fish are larger than females and develop a pronounced bump (nuchal hump) above their heads. Red devils are characterized by their large, thick lips, although this feature is much more pronounced in wild-caught fish.

Red devil cichlids have large dorsal and anal fins that end in a sharp point, sometimes extending to the end of their fan-shaped tails.

The red devil cichlid is easily confused with another popular Central American species known as the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus). However, the red devil grows larger and have thicker lips.

How Big Can They Get?

The red devil cichlid is a large, heavily built fish. Adults can measure 12 to 15 inches when fully grown, and males are the larger sex.

Red devil cichlids are often sold at just an inch or two, but they grow to reach adult size in just three years or so.

How Long Do They Live?

The red devil cichlid can live for over ten years with good care. Their average lifespan is about 10 to 12 years, making them a similar commitment to the average dog.

These fish will live longest if given plenty of tank space, high water quality, and a healthy, balanced diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feeding your red devil cichlid is one of the easiest aspects of its care. These true omnivores eat insect larvae, snails, small fish, and plant material in nature.

Captive specimens are not fussy, and high-quality cichlid pellets are the best option for their daily needs, although young red devil cichlids will eagerly accept tropical fish flakes.

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Supplement the red devil cichlid diet with the following foods to improve their general condition:

Brine shrimp
Bloodworms
Peas
Lettuce
Spinach

Live Foods

Live foods provide a great natural source of nutrition for your red devil cichlid. These fish regularly hunt live prey in nature, so they certainly have that killer instinct. Live foods like earthworms, crickets, and cockroaches are great choices.

How Often and How Much to Feed them

Feed your red devil cichlid at least twice each day, providing only as much food as your fish will eat. Remove any uneaten food before it spoils in your tank water.

Red devil cichlids is excitable around mealtimes, and they will often crash into the hood of your aquarium when taking food from the surface. Make sure your lid is securely fitted and solidly built.

Weigh down lightweight hoods to keep them securely in place, and take care when feeding these fish, as an accidental bite is pretty painful.

Temperament and Behavior

The red devil cichlid is an aggressive fish, and they aren’t called devils for nothing! However, these colorful cichlids make wonderful pets that love to interact with their owners.

Nevertheless, many specimens will bite the hand that feeds them, and larger fish can easily draw blood. In extreme cases, you need to use a divider to keep your fish to one side when performing tank maintenance.

Red devils are not fish you can add to a community aquarium. These guys need careful planning and a tank that is designed around their needs. However, it is possible to keep them with some other fish types.

Continue reading to learn about the best red devil cichlid tank mates.

Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates

Choosing tank mates for your red devil cichlid is challenging because these fish are just so aggressive. It is best to keep them in a species-only tank because they have such great personalities that you don’t need any others.

Nevertheless, multi-fish tanks are possible, but you should always have a plan B in case things don’t work out. Keeping your red devil cichlid with other fish will require an enormous aquarium, so consider the size and weight of a 180 + gallon aquarium before committing to this kind of setup.

Best Tank Mates For Them

It is possible to keep these fish with other red devil cichlids when they are young, but they will become increasingly aggressive as they mature. Introducing all the tank mates when they are young is the best chance of creating a harmonious fish tank, but there are no guarantees when it comes to the red devil.

Some freshwater fish have lived side by side with the red devil cichlid. Plecos are one of them, although these bottom feeders will become strictly nocturnal to stay out of the red devil’s way.

Other possible options are large cichlids like Jack Dempseys, Texas, Midas, and jaguar cichlids, but again, having a spare tank is important if things go wrong.

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Most fish will not get along with the red devil cichlid. Smaller fish may be eaten, while others may be attacked and killed.

Red devil cichlids become particularly aggressive when breeding. They will kill any other fish in their tank during this time.

Care

Red devil cichlids are not ideal for beginner aquarists. That being said, their care is relatively straightforward for more experienced fishkeepers, especially if you start out with the right tank setup.

Read on to learn more about red devil cichlid care, their tank size, and setup needs.

Tank Requirements

The red devil cichlid needs a large aquarium with stable decorations, a secure hood, and a fine sand substrate. Keep reading for more information.

Tank Size

Red devil cichlids are large fish that need plenty of room. You can start out with a 55-gallon tank, but a 75-gallon setup will be best for a single fish in the long run. You could also keep a pair in this size tank, but stepping up to a larger size is a better bet.

Setup

Keeping red devil cichlids is all about the fish, so don’t design a complicated aquascape. These fish rearrange their tank regularly, so choosing the right decor is very important.

Decor

Providing a cave or shelter is a great way to ensure your fish has a place to relax and feel secure. However, safety is a very important consideration when choosing decorations for red devil cichlids.

These fish love to dig, and they can destabilize rock piles and driftwood arrangements, causing them to collapse. This will cause injury to your fish or even crack your aquarium!

Avoid placing decorations on top of deep sand. If you don’t want to make a rock arrangement for your fish, secure each component with an aquarium and fish-safe epoxy.

Substrate

A fine sand substrate is ideal because it will allow your fish to dig without scratching or injuring themselves.

Live Plants

Red devil cichlids are not recommended for a planted aquarium because they are notorious for tearing up all sorts of aquatic plants.

Water Quality And Filtration

Maintaining high water quality is essential in any aquarium; your red devil tank is no exception.

Filtration & Aeration

Powerful filtration is vital when keeping these large and messy fish. Red devils is hard on aquarium equipment like filters and heaters, so external hardware is often the best choice. Canister filters with integrated heaters (or you can get an in-line heater) are a great option because they limit the amount of hardware that your red devil cichlid can reach.

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A sump system is recommended for larger tanks. Larger hang-on back and internal power filters do not have enough to capacity to house adult cichlids. Their activity will also damage internal filters and sponge filters.

Red devil cichlids are native to stillwater environments, so aim for moderate water movement to avoid stressing your fish. Although it’s not essential, an airstone or two will increase aeration in your red devil cichlid tank and increase the activity levels of your fish.

Water Parameters

Red devil cichlids is kept in water with a pH of 6 to 8, although right around neutral is preferred. Ideal temperatures range from about 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and they will thrive in water hardness of 6 to 25 dGH.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is essential for keeping your red devil cichlid tank looking great and keeping your fish in excellent health.

Perform a 25-30% water change on your aquarium each week to reduce the build-up of nitrates in your water. This is also a great time to clean up your glass, vacuum up waste from the substrate, and perform any maintenance on your equipment.

Testing Tank Conditions

The only way to really know what’s going on in your water chemistry is to test regularly. Red devil cichlids can survive in a reasonable range of water parameters, but you should strive to maintain stable conditions in your tank.

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Pick up a test kit that can monitor the following important parameters:

Nitrates (NO3)
Nitrites (NO2)
Ammonia (NH3 & NH4+)
pH
GH
KH

Breeding

Breeding red devil cichlids is easy – just make sure you’ll be able to find homes for all the young freshwater fish before you start!

Sexing

The first step toward breeding red devil cichlids is to acquire a breeding pair. Fortunately, adult red devil cichlids are easy to sex. The male red devil cichlid is bigger (up to 15 inches) and has a bigger nuchal hump. Females max out at about 10 inches and have a lighter build and a flatter forehead.

However, forming a pair is easier said than done since males can kill females if they don’t hit it off. Growing out a few young red devils in a large tank and allowing a pair to form naturally is one safe technique, but the other fish will need to be removed for their safety.

These fish can reach spawning age when they are about 6 inches long if healthy and well-conditioned.

Conditioning

Your fish should be in excellent condition before starting your breeding project. Pay extra attention to their water quality through frequent maintenance and provide plenty of live and frozen foods.

Raising the tank temperature to 75 – 78 degrees, Fahrenheit can trigger spawning since this replicates the natural temperature increase in their breeding season.

The Breeding Process

Red devil cichlids spawn on hard, level surfaces like a flat rock, or the walls or ceiling of a cave. The female will lay hundreds of eggs which the male then fertilizes.

The fertilized eggs will begin to hatch after about three days and will be closely guarded by the adult fish. After hatching, the young fry will be moved to a hole in the substrate and become free swimming within another week or so.

Males becomes aggressive toward female red devil cichlids at this point, so make sure you include a few secure hiding places and caves that are too small to fit the male. A divider is necessary.

Caring for Fry

Red devils are large fish, and you can expect a lot of babies after a successful spawn. Be prepared to see 300 to 800 red devil cichlid fry! The fry gets all the nutrients they need from their yolk sac, but they will require food after their fourth or fifth day.

Baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes are great starter foods for these fish. You can feed the fry directly using a turkey baster or a large syringe with some airline tubing.

The adult fish (video source) are very protective over their fry, although you can move the baby fish to their own tank to avoid any chance of them being eaten by their parents. Move the female to her own tank, if you choose to separate the fry as this can trigger extra aggression from the male.

Health And Disease

Red devil cichlids are not particularly prone to health problems, and they are relatively trouble-free if maintained in good conditions. Like any fish species, they are most likely to develop problems when stressed by poor water quality, inappropriate food, or conflict with other fish.

Evaluating their Health

The best way to monitor your fish’s health is to observe their physical appearance and behavior. Make the time to watch your fish for a few minutes in the morning and evening each day, and pay attention to any noticeable changes.

Healthy fish have vibrant colors, complete fins that are not held clamped against the body, and a healthy appearance without sores or wounds.

Buoyancy issues like floating or sinking are something to watch out for, as well as low activity levels and a lack of appetite.

Common Health Issues

Red devil cichlids can contract various illnesses that commonly affect freshwater fish species. Consult your veterinarian for more information on treating illnesses in your fish.

Ich or white spot disease is one of the most common illnesses that affect freshwater fish, and it is serious if left untreated. This parasitic infection is caused by protozoa and often flares up in stressed fish.

Ich is treated with aquarium salt, heat treatments, or specially formulated medications like ich-X.

Fungal infections

Fungal infections can cause fluffy growths on your fish’s skin, gills, and fins. This form of illness often arises from poor water conditions, so a targeted treatment with antifungal medication and better aquarium hygiene are recommended for the best results.

Physical injuries from fighting

Red devil cichlids have an aggressive nature, and they are often kept with other aggressive freshwater fish. Fights happen, and these powerful cichlids can easily damage each other with their powerful jaws and sharp teeth.

It’s very important to have a spare fish tank available if you keep red devil cichlids with other fish, even of the same species. Separate your fish immediately if you see signs of serious aggression and treat their wounds when necessary.

Bacterial infections

Fish are susceptible to many bacterial infections, particularly when injured or kept in poor water quality conditions. These infections is treated with antibiotics, available online, from aquarium stores, or from your local veterinarian.

Where To Buy

Red devil cichlids are very affordable if bought young. You can find these aggressive cichlid species online or at many aquarium stores. Unfortunately, red devils often hybridize with other cichlid species like Midas and Texas, so buy from a reputable breeder to be sure your fish are purebred.

FAQs

Do They Eat Fish?

Red devil cichlids are omnivorous fish with large mouths and they will eat any fish small enough to swallow. However, avoid providing feeder fish as this can introduce infectious diseases to your tank.

How Can You Tell If They Are Male Or Female?

Young red devil cichlids are very difficult to sex, although older fish develop distinct physical differences as they mature. An adult male will grow larger and develop a more prominent nuchal hump above his head than a female red devil.

What Do They Eat?

Red devil cichlids will eat just about anything you give them. A balanced diet of quality cichlid pellets supplemented with live/frozen foods and vegetables will keep your red devil cichlid healthy.

What Is The Difference Between This Fish And Midas Cichlid?

The red devil cichlid is easily confused with the Midas cichlid. Both fish come from the same family and genus, and they will readily interbreed to produce hybrids. Younger red devils look very similar, but adults grow longer, have thicker lips, and have a longer sloped forehead than Midas cichlids.

How Fast Do They Grow?

Red devil cichlid fry grow quickly and begin to change color by the time they reach about two inches long. They may reach 8 to 10 inches within a year if well-fed and cared for, but their growth rate slows after that.

How long does it take for them to reach full size?

Red devil cichlids take about three years to reach their adult size. However, they can live for over ten years and will continue to grow slowly throughout their lives.

Is the Red Devil Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

Only for experienced keepers who understand extreme aggression. This is not a fish for beginners or anyone who hasn’t managed aggressive cichlids before.
Need 75 gallons minimum for a single fish. A pair requires 125+ gallons, and even then, the female need to be separated during non-breeding periods.
Incredible personality and intelligence. Red devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish and develop strong bonds with their owners.
Best kept as a solo species. Tank mates are possible but risky. Even large, tough fish can be injured or killed.
Will rearrange everything. Decorations, substrate, heaters, filter intakes. Nothing is safe from a determined red devil.
Long-lived commitment. Healthy red devils can live 12-15 years, so be ready for the long haul.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Red Devil Cichlid

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They have enormous personality. Red Devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish. They recognize their owner, beg for food, and will display for you constantly. Some keepers describe them as underwater dogs.

Feeding time is an event. A hungry Red Devil does not wait politely. It splashes, rams the glass, and makes itself impossible to ignore. Feeding this fish is entertaining and occasionally wet.

They rearrange the entire tank. Gravel mountains, dug-out caves, displaced decorations. Your aquascape is a suggestion, not a reality, when a Red Devil lives there.

Aggression is constant, not occasional. This is not a fish that gets aggressive during breeding and calms down afterward. Red Devils are aggressive all the time. Every day. That is their baseline personality.

How the Red Devil Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

Red devils are constantly compared to flowerhorns, partly because they’re one of the parent species used in flowerhorn creation. In terms of aggression, they’re roughly equal. Both are among the most aggressive freshwater aquarium fish. Flowerhorns are flashier with their pronounced nuchal hump and iridescent coloring, while red devils have a more natural, wild-caught aesthetic. Red devils is successfully bred in captivity as a pure species, which is something flowerhorns can’t match. If you value authenticity and want to work with a real species, the red devil is the choice. If you want maximum visual drama, the flowerhorn edges ahead.

The Jack Dempsey is another large Central American cichlid that gets compared to red devils, but they’re in different leagues of aggression. Jack Dempseys are assertive but manageable in a well-planned community tank. Red devils will dominate and potentially injure any tank mate regardless of size. If you like the idea of a big, tough Central American cichlid but want more flexibility with tank mates, the Jack Dempsey is the safer choice.

Final Thoughts

A red devil does not share territory. It eliminates competition.

The red devil cichlid is not for everyone. However, If you want a feisty, aggressive, and exciting pet that loves to interact, it is the perfect option for you! Just make sure you read through this guide carefully before adopting one of these amazing cichlids from Central America.

Do you keep red devil cichlids? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

March 21, 2023

Boesemani Rainbowfish Care Guide: One of the Most Striking Community Fish You Can Keep

In my years working with rainbowfish, boesemani Rainbowfish at the pet store look nothing like adults. The washed-out silver juvenile turns into a half-blue, half-orange showpiece over months. But they need space, schools of 6 or more, and hard water.

Juvenile boesemani look nothing like the adults on the box. Patience is the price of those colors.

A mature male boesemani in breeding color rivals most saltwater fish for impact. You just have to wait for it.

Overview Of The Fish Species
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong
Classification
Introduction To Boesemani Rainbowfish
Origin and Habitat
Appearance
Boesemani Rainbowfish Care
Food and Diet
Breeding Boesemani Rainbows
Conclusion
Is the Boesemani Rainbowfish Right for You?
Species Comparison

Boesemani rainbowfish are one of my go-to recommendations when people ask about community fish that actually look impressive in a planted tank. That blue-purple to orange gradient is genuinely striking. Especially when you have a school of 8 or more males competing and displaying. They’re one of those fish that look like they cost a lot more than they actually do.

They’re peaceful, reasonably easy to keep, and get more beautiful as they mature and fully color up. Here’s everything you need to know to keep them healthy and looking their best.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Boesemani Rainbowfish

Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Boesemani Rainbowfish without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Boesemani Rainbowfish are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

Key Takeaways

Boesemani rainbowfish are colorful fish that can grow to be slightly larger than other freshwater community species.
These fish don’t have any special requirements, but they do best in heavily planted setups.
Boesemanis will outcompete other species for food, so tank mates need to be carefully chosen or a specific feeding method needs to be used.
These rainbows is bred in the home aquarium, which lessens the impact on dwindling natural populations.

Overview Of The Fish Species

Scientific Name	Melanotaenia boesemani
Common Names	Boesemani Rainbowfish, Boeseman’s Rainbowfish
Family	Melanotaeniidae
Origin	Indonesia
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Moderate activity
Lifespan	5 to 10 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Middle
Minimum Tank Size	40 gallons
Temperature Range	72. 77° F
Water Hardness	9. 19 KH
pH Range	7.0. 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Low to moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Order	Atheriniformes
Family	Melanotaeniidae
Genus	Melanotaenia
Species	M. Boesemani (Allen & Cross, 1980)

Introduction To Boesemani Rainbowfish

Everybody has tetras in their tank. We don’t blame them. Tetras are small yet colorful fish that can make any tank come to life.

But isn’t there another, more unique alternative that’s just as colorful and exciting?

Yes! Past the tetras and the rasboras, there’s a wide variety of rainbowfish species available for beginner to expert hobbyists. These fish have all the characteristics that make tetras desirable but offer a new shape and personality to the community fish tank. The Boesemani rainbowfish, scientifically known as Melanotaenia boesemani, is one of the most popular species of rainbowfish available in the aquarium hobby.

Though these fish are very popular in the hobby and have been successfully bred commercially, they are, unfortunately, endangered in their wild natural habitat ecosystems and listed on the IUCN Red List of endangered species. This is a direct result of harvesting done by the aquarium hobby, so it is strongly encouraged to ethically source the next rainbowfish that you add to your tank.

Otherwise, rainbowfish are large, active schooling fish that is kept in moderately sized aquariums. They get along with most freshwater community fish species and are hardy to most aquarium water parameters.

Origin and Habitat

The Boesemani rainbowfish is one of the most colorful species of fish that occurs naturally in the wild. These blue and orange fish have a very limited natural range, with populations existing only in the tri-lake region of Indonesia known as Ajamaru. Some other populations have been found in nearby lakes, namely Lake Hain and Lake Aitinjo.

There, Boesemani rainbowfish stay in the shallow waters. They is found in dense vegetation where they school and reproduce. Though the waters from these lakes are naturally hard with high pH, Boesemani rainbowfish have been found in various hardness and pH conditions. This has made acclimating them to the water parameters preferred by aquarium fish that much easier.

As we’ll see, these fish do best in heavily planted aquariums with low to moderate water flow.

Appearance

Rainbowfish have unique appearances that make them attractive to hobbyists who want something a little different from your typical tropical fish. There are many different species of rainbowfish available, with some staying small and others growing large with special features.

The true appeal of this rainbowfish is its colors. There is no other fish that compares! The Boesemani rainbowfish is brightly colored with blues, yellows, oranges, and even greens. Male Boesemani rainbows feature the greatest contrast in colors, with the first half of their body being a dark blue that slowly fades into a deep orange by their tail fin. In contrast, females are solid silver or yellowish-green with lighter-colored bellies.

The Boesemani rainbow also has an interesting body shape. They have a deeper body with long dorsal and anal fins. Female fish aren’t as deep-bodied, but can still easily be told apart from other species.

How Big Do They Get?

The Boesemani rainbowfish is a moderately sized species of rainbow. Male fish grow to be slightly larger than females, maxing out at about 5 inches. Females stay under 4 inches at adult size.

Boesemani Rainbowfish Care

Boesemani rainbowfish care is easy, though there are some special considerations that should be taken into account before buying them. If given the right aquarium setup, though, these fish can live for relatively long times and will bring new colors to a fish tank.

Are They Easy To Keep?

In general, Boesemani rainbowfish are very easy to keep: they’re hardy fish that have been bred to withstand most conditions seen in the aquarium hobby. However, they are large, active fish that will be overbearing for other species.

Despite their larger size, they can also be somewhat skittish fish. Because of this, it’s essential to keep them in sizeable groups with an appropriate ratio of female to male fish. This grouping setup will also help increase color expression from the males while also lessening the harassment between males and females.

To help make your fish even more comfortable in its tank, a heavily planted setup is recommended.

Aquarium Setup

Unlike tetras and other popular tropical fish, Boesemani rainbows should be given some special consideration when setting up their tank. These fish shine best when given the right conditions.

An ideal Boesemani aquarium setup would be filled with dense vegetation at all levels of the aquarium. These fish mostly swim in the middle but will gladly venture to the tops and bottoms of the tank to look for food. To help make them more comfortable, add live plant species that grow in the foreground, midground, and background. Otherwise, regularly prune plants to create a layered effect.

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Rocks, driftwood, and other natural aquarium decorations may be added to create depth and interest as well as various hiding spots for your fish. Make sure to keep plenty of space open in the middle of the tank as these rainbows like to swim! While unlikely to jump out of the aquarium, it’s recommended to use an aquarium lid that stops any overly adventurous fish.

Tank Size

We list Boesemani rainbowfish as moderately difficult fish to keep due to their relatively demanding tank size. These are larger-than-average tropical fish that need plenty of room to swim and school. That being said, they don’t require a massive setup, either.

Boesemani rainbowfish need a minimum tank size of 40 gallons. Any smaller than this reduces the number of rainbows that is kept together and the other species that is added. Any aquarium larger than this greatly increases the possibility of keeping other rainbows and species.

Remember that a lot of aquarium space will be lost to plants and decorations in a heavily planted tank.

Water Parameters

Boesemani rainbows are hardy fish. They’ve been successfully bred in the aquarium industry, meaning they have been comfortably kept in many different water parameters. This also means that they’ve been exposed to many common freshwater diseases, helping their immune systems recognize and overcome pathogens faster and easier.

These rainbowfish do best when kept in tropical water conditions with a constant water temperature between 72. 77° F. While a tropical species, hobbyists report having greater success keeping their Boesemanis in slightly cooler water temperatures.

As mentioned before, Boesemani rainbowfish have been found in varying pH levels. In general, the aquarium should be kept at neutral pH, between 7.0. 8.0. Water hardness should remain between 9. 19 KH, but they are highly adaptable to changing hardness levels as well.

Filtration and Aeration

Boesemani rainbows don’t mean to be messy, but their size, activity, and willingness to eat anything can make for a high bioload. Luckily, plants help uptake nutrients and other wastes to perform food production. This reduces the need for extensive tank maintenance, though some care is still needed.

An adequately sized filter is highly recommended for a Boesemani rainbowfish tank. This filter should be rated for at least 2x the tank size to help remove waste and provide water circulation. These rainbows are strong swimmers and are able to swim against a moderate water flow but need areas of lower flow. Consider the types of live plants you plan on keeping too. Many species prefer gentle water movement.

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Additional aeration is always welcomed and is achieved through a sponge filter and/or air stone. A large sponge filter or several smaller ones can create low water movement while also facilitating gas exchange, which is important for plant health. An air stone can also be attached to an air pump for aesthetic purposes or for better gas exchange.

Lighting

The type of lighting you need for your tank depends on the types of plants being kept. Boesemani rainbowfish is skittish with other active species and sudden shadows, but they can be kept under higher lighting setups as long as an aquarium lid is secured. In other words, these rainbows won’t avoid swimming out in the open just because of high lighting conditions.

Instead, base the amount of lighting on the species of live plant being kept. Even with high lighting, rainbowfish will use their natural habitat to hide if they feel uncomfortable or stressed; if you do find that your fish is hiding in the shadows, try adding more live plants, floating plants, or structures to increase available areas for relief.

Aquarium Plants and Decorations

Aquarium plants are a must for Boesemani rainbows. These fish originate from very densely planted areas which provide them with food and shelter. It seems counterintuitive, but the more places you have available for your fish to hide, the more likely they’ll be out in the open.

Aquarium plants also make for a healthy tank. In order to perform photosynthesis and grow, plants need nutrients. The fish and invertebrates provide these nutrients in the aquarium. As these excess nutrients are used, the water is cleaned, meaning less work for the hobbyist. This also means that additional fertilization may be necessary if enough nutrients aren’t naturally entering the system.

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In addition to plants, rocks, and driftwood, other aquarium-safe decorations may be added to your rainbowfish tank. Make sure that these objects are securely placed, as Boesemanis can bump into them and knock them over when going at high speeds.

Tank Maintenance

Because most rainbowfish are kept in well-planted tanks, tank maintenance is low. In fact, some aquarium keepers leave their Boesemani tanks unfiltered, leaving the live plants and fish to find a balance between nutrient input and output; we only recommend this Walstad method for very experienced hobbyists.

Still, regular weekly or biweekly 10-25% water changes are recommended. Performing water changes helps remove waste caught around the stems of plants while also introducing new, nutrient-rich water for plants to use. If using a pure source of water, like from reverse osmosis, then minerals will need to be manually added back in.

If dosing fertilizers, regularly use a dependable water testing kit to see how nutrients are moving throughout the system.

Substrate

Boesemani rainbowfish is kept on any substrate. A dark substrate will help complement and intensify their coloration but it isn’t necessary to make these fish bold.

Instead, the substrate should be chosen with plants in mind. For this reason, many hobbyists use plant-specific substrates that facilitate healthy root growth. Another good alternative is aquarium-purpose river sand that comes in various color grades.

Community Tank Mates

For the most part, Boesemani rainbowfish are peaceful fish that is kept with various species. The main concerns in choosing suitable tank mates for them are matching preferred water temperatures and activity levels.

Can They Go In A Community Tank?

Yes! Boesemani rainbows thrive in a community tank setting. They are often used as the featured species of the tank, with all other fish complimenting their movement and colors.

Some of the best Boesemani rainbowfish tank mates include:

Larger tetras
Larger rasboras
Corydoras
Barbs
Other rainbowfish

Because these rainbows prefer harder water, experienced keepers have had luck keeping them with some of the more peaceful species of African rift lake cichlids. Avoid smaller, slow-moving fish tank mates that could easily be overwhelmed and outcompeted.

Boesemani rainbowfish are schooling fish that love to be in their own company. However, an imbalance of males to females can lead to harassment, so it’s recommended to keep 2 to 3 females for every male fish. At least 6 rainbowfish should be kept together at any given time.

Can They Live With Angelfish?

Boesemani rainbowfish can live with angelfish under certain conditions. Angelfish are slow-moving fish, but as cichlids, they can defend themselves. This pairing can work if the angelfish are larger than the rainbowfish and more aggressive. Otherwise, the Boesemanis may be too overwhelming and outcompete the angels.

Food and Diet

These rainbows happily accept any and all foods. They are active swimmers that need a lot of food to keep them going. A small portion of high-quality flake food may be given a couple of times throughout the day. This will help keep costs down while also encouraging your fish’s colors while fulfilling their appetite.

For a treat, Boesemani rainbowfish may be given a mixed diet of freeze-dried, live, and frozen foods. They especially love brine shrimp, bloodworms, tubifex worms, and mosquito larvae. As omnivores, they will also eat green vegetables, like spinach and cucumber. While these rainbows aren’t overly messy fish, regular feedings of protein-rich food can lead to water quality issues.

While Boesemani rainbows might seem like they have large mouths, they actually have small throats, which can limit what they eat. Make sure to feed appropriately-sized live foods and cut up any pieces that might seem too big.

Another concern with Boesemani feeding is that they are too ambitious. These are fast fish and even faster eaters. This can cause other fish to miss out and become stressed. To help mitigate this problem, try feeding Boesemanis sinking foods and the other fish floating foods. This should help keep all fish occupied with eating at different levels of the tank.

Breeding Boesemani Rainbows

Breeding Boesemani rainbowfish has been achieved at the commercial level. They are easy to breed in the home aquarium setting though it’s recommended to use a breeding tank. Raising their fry is somewhat challenging, and a breeding tank will provide the most control over conditions.

To start breeding your Boesemani rainbowfish, place a group of females with one to two males. Feed high-quality food and a steady diet while raising the water temperature to about 80. 84° F and pH to slightly basic at 7.5. When ready, females will become plump, and males will intensify in color.

As egg scatterers, female Boesemanis will freely release their eggs, and the males will fertilize them. Fine-leaved plants, like Java moss, or egg crate, is used to catch the eggs. Once the eggs have been fertilized, the adult fish may be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

After about a week, the fry hatch. They will need to be given small foods, like infusoria, until they’re big enough to accept bigger foods, like baby brine shrimp. After a few months, they are ready to be given to another hobbyist or moved back to the display tank.

Conclusion

Boesemani rainbowfish are great fish for hobbyists looking for something new. These fish are just as easy as tetras and rasboras but offer new colors and shapes to add to the community fish tank setup. There are a few considerations needed when picking tank mates, as these rainbows is overly active and ambitious feeders, but they are not aggressive. They are also easy fish to breed for beginner hobbyists looking for a new challenge!

March 19, 2023

13 Types of Freshwater Puffer Fish: Requirements, Tank Mates, and the FW/Brackish Confusion

Freshwater puffers range from inch-long pea puffers to 2-foot fahaka puffers. All of them bite. All of them need specialized feeding. None of them belong in a standard community tank.

If you are not prepared to feed live and frozen foods on a schedule, puffers are not for you.

That said, there are legitimately great true freshwater options. The Dwarf Puffer being the standout for planted and nano setups. Here’s my breakdown of 13 species worth knowing, with honest notes on the freshwater vs. Brackish issue for each one.

Key Takeaways

Freshwater puffer fish range from tiny nano species to real tank busters
Most pufferfish do best in a species-only setup, although some can work in a carefully planned community tank
Freshwater puffer fish need meaty, hard-shelled food like snails and shellfish to keep their beaks worn down

What Are They?

Puffer fish belong to the Tetraodontidae family, a group of fish that are found in fresh, brackish, and saltwater environments in many parts of the world.

Freshwater puffers bite. They destroy. They require live or frozen food that most hobbyists are not prepared to provide long term. The cute factor wears off fast when your puffer eats every tankmate.

These fish are called puffer fish because they have the ability to expand their body size by two or three times by sucking in water or air. Puffing up makes them look much larger than they really are, and this deters predators.

However, puffer fish have another defense if that trick fails. Although the concentration varies between species, all puffers carry a poison called tetrodotoxin in their skin. Captive fish are relatively safe, but of course, they should never be eaten or fed to pets!

Why Keep Them?

Freshwater puffer fish are beautiful animals and often have interesting patterns and bright colors. However, these fish are just as popular for their behavior as their looks.

Puffer fish are more like pets than display animals. These inquisitive fish love to interact with their owners, especially around meal times!

Freshwater puffer fish have an interesting way of moving through the water. They have fairly large tails but they hover around using their smaller pectoral fins. This swimming style makes them pretty slow movers, but they is surprisingly quick when grabbing a meal.

These freshwater puffer fish range from semi-aggressive to full-blown killers, so they are not good fish to simply add to your tropical community aquarium. With their sharp teeth and quick bursts of speed, they can do some serious damage to their tank mates.

All in all, freshwater puffer fish are right for you if you want an interesting carnivorous pet fish with enough personality to fill its own tank!

13 Best Freshwater Puffer Fish for Tropical Aquariums

Now that you know a little more about freshwater puffer fish, let’s dive right in and meet 13 species that you can keep. We have a video from our YouTube Channel you can check out. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we have no videos posted every week!

I’ve included some key information about each species and its needs, so take note of the following stats if you’re looking for your own freshwater puffer fish:

Scientific name
Common names
Origin
Adult size
Tank size
Temperament
Community safe?
pH
Water temperature

Ready? Let’s dive right in!

1. Pea

Scientific name: Carinotetraodon travancoricus
Common names: Dwarf puffer fish, pygmy pufferfish
Origin: India
Adult size: 1 inch
Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 6.8 – 8
Water temperature: 72 – 82 °F

The dwarf puffer fish is an awesome little nano species that is easy to find and won’t cost more than a few dollars. These tiny fish grow to just an inch long, so you can keep a single fish in a tank as small as 5 gallons.

Dwarf puffers may be cute, but they is mean and keeping more than one is risky. A trio of one male and two females in a heavily planted 15-gallon is worth trying, but make sure you have a backup plan to separate your pea pufferfish if there is conflict.

2. Imitator

Scientific name: Carinotetraodon imitator
Common names: Dwarf Malabar puffer fish
Origin: India
Adult size: 1 inch
Minimum tank size: 5 gallon
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 6.8 – 7.5
Water temperature: 76 – 82°F

The imitator puffer fish is a tiny pufferfish species, very similar to the dwarf puffer fish, and has the same general care requirements. This is a rarer species that is distinguished by its brighter yellow color and fewer spots.

3. Mbu

Scientific name: Tetraodon mbu
Common names: Giant puffer fish
Origin: Central Africa
Adult size: 20 – 30 inches
Minimum tank size: 500 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 7 – 8
Water temperature: 75 – 79°F

Unlike the previous two species, there’s nothing nano about the mbu puffer fish! This is the world’s largest puffer¹, and it makes an amazing pet for dedicated and experienced fish keepers.

These huge freshwater puffer fish require a massive tank that holds hundreds of gallons of well-filtered water. They is kept in a community tank, but avoid slow-swimming bottom dwellers that might make a tasty snack for the mighty mbu puffer.

4. Hairy

Scientific name: Tetraodon baileyi
Origin: Laos & Thailand, Southeast Asia
Adult size: 5 inches
Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 74 – 81°F

The hairy pufferfish is an awesome ambush-hunting puffer from Asia. These unique freshwater puffer fish get their name from the hair-like growths on their body that break up their outline.

Hairy puffers hang out at the bottom of the tank, just waiting for something tasty to swim or crawl by. They are not a community species and will do best in a species-only tank with a sandy substrate that they can burrow in.

5. Green Spotted

Scientific name: Tetraodon nigroviridis
Origin: South & Southeast Asia
Adult size: 6 inches
Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 7.5 – 8.5
Water temperature: 75 – 82°F

The green-spotted puffer fish is one of the best-looking species if you ask me. These adorable fish have dark spots on a yellow/green back, and a plain white belly.

The green-spotted puffer is a medium-sized species. You could keep them in a 30-gallon tank, but 55 is a better option. They are aggressive towards their own species except in very large aquariums.

It’s important to note that this puffer is a brackish water species. Although the young are often sold as freshwater fish, adults are going to need a slightly salty setup to really thrive.

6. Spotted Congo

Scientific name: Tetraodon schoutedeni
Origin: Democratic Republic of Congo
Adult size: 4 inches
Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 78 – 81°F

The spotted congo puffer is the smallest of the African species, maxing out at about 4 inches. They are relatively peaceful and can live in small groups or with other peaceful fish. Just avoid any slow-swimming tankmates with long fins!

Like all puffers, these guys need great water quality and a steady supply of hard-shelled food to thrive. If you can provide that, you should have no problem keeping this awesome African species.

7. Amazon

Scientific name: Colomesus asellus
Common names: South American puffer fish
Origin: Amazon River Basin, South America
Adult size: 3 – 4 inches
Tank size: 30 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Community safe?: With caution
pH: 5.5 – 8
Water temperature: 75 – 80°F

The Amazon puffer is one of the few species on this list that works well in community aquariums. You can keep just one, but this species forms shoals in the wild so it will do best if kept in groups of at least six.

8. Red-Tailed Dwarf

Scientific name: Carinotetraodon irrubesco
Common names: Red-tailed redeye puffer fish
Origin: Southeast Asia
Adult size: 1.5 – 2 inches
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6 – 7.5
Water temperature: 68 – 82°F

The Red-tailed dwarf puffer fish (video source) is true freshwater species that lives in forest streams in Asia. These fish have really cool markings and bright red eyes.

Like other puffers, these guys will nip slow-moving fish, so choosing tank mates should be done carefully. They is kept in small groups if you have enough plants and hardscape to break up their line of sight, but try to add just one male and a few females.

9. Fahaka

Scientific name: Tetraodon lineatus
Common names: Globe fish, Nile puffer fish
Origin: Central & North Africa
Adult size: up to 17 inches
Tank size: 100-150 gallons
Temperament: Highly aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 75 – 79°F

The Fahaka puffer fish (video source) is another giant species from Africa. They require a hard-shelled diet of snails, crab legs, and whole mussels and clams to keep their sharp beaks worn down.

The fahaka puffer has awesome markings and makes a great ‘wet pet’ for a species-only tank. However, these fish are extremely aggressive, even toward their own species, so avoid adding any tank mates.

10. Golden

Scientific name: Auriglobus silus
Common names: Gold green puffer fish, avocado puffer fish, bronze puffer fish
Origin: Southeast Asia
Adult size: 4 inches
Minimum tank size: 20-30 gallons
Temperament: Highly aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6 – 7.8
Water temperature: 74 – 80°F

The golden puffer is still pretty rare in the hobby, but these freshwater puffer fish definitely have great looks! They are said to be very aggressive toward other fish species and even their own kind, so it’s easiest to give each specimen its own fish tank.

11. Ocellated

Scientific name: Tetraodon cucutia/ Leiodon cutcutia
Origin: South & Southeast Asia
Adult size: 6 inches
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 75 – 82°F

The ocellated puffer fish is another rare species that can make a great pet. This fish will do best in a well-planted tank with some caves and hiding places. A sandy substrate and moderate water flow will help to recreate their natural habitat.

12. Arrowhead

Scientific name: Tetraodon suvattii
Common names: Pignose puffer fish
Origin: Laos & Thailand
Adult size: 6 inches
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 72 – 79 °F

The arrowhead puffer fish is an ambush predator that stays down on the substrate. These fish are highly aggressive and will eat any smaller fish that fits in their mouth. They will also bite chunks out of larger freshwater fish, so they are only really suitable for a species-only tank.

Arrowhead puffers are pretty inactive, so they don’t need a large tank. However, they do need a deep layer (2 – 3 inches) of a fine substrate to bury into.

13. Crested

Scientific name: Carinoteraodon lorteti
Common names: Red-eyed puffer
Origin: Southeast Asia
Adult size: 2 inches
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Community safe?: No
pH: 5 – 7.5
Water temperature: 75 – 82 °F

The crested puffer fish is another dwarf puffer fish that is suitable for smaller fish tanks. This species looks similar to the red-tailed dwarf puffer, although it grows a little larger.

Keep these interesting puffer fish in a well-planted aquarium that mimics their natural habitat. They should not be kept with other fish species, although experienced aquarists may have success keeping a small group in a large tank with dense vegetation and plenty of hardscape to create multiple territories.

Tank Setup

Most types of pufferfish do not have any unusual tank requirements, although giant African species like the mbu pufferfish and the fahaka pufferfish need huge tanks.

Puffers are messy feeders so regular water changes and high-quality filtration are a must. These fish do not do well in high nitrate water parameters, so you’ll need to test your water frequently at first to work out a good maintenance routine.

Freshwater puffers are tropical fish, which means you’re going to need a heater to keep them comfortable. Choose a model that matches your tank size, and add a thermometer to make monitoring the temperature easier.

It might not look like it, but some puffers are adapted to high water flow. Those species will appreciate a powerhead or two to recreate their natural river habitat, but make sure there are some sheltered spots where they can rest and relax.

All freshwater puffer fish types will benefit from live plants, but the larger species is hard on plants, so they are not the ideal choice for a prize-winning aquascape.

Grow hardy aquatic plants like Java ferns and fast-growing stem plants like limnophila and anacharis to improve your water quality and add more structure to your fish’s home.

Feeding

Pufferfish have specialized diets, and they will not eat regular fish food like flakes and pellets. They are carnivores, and their specialized beaks allow them to feed on some pretty tough meals!

In fact, these tooth-like structures grow continuously, so puffers need a regular supply of hard-shelled food to keep their teeth growth in check.

Live snails are the ideal food for most puffers, and maintaining a steady supply is tricky. The best way is to grow your own snails in a separate tank or container. Ideal snails for this are pond, bladder, and ramshorn snails. Avoid Malaysian trumpet snails as their shell is just too hard.

The large species require shellfish like clams, and keeping them fed can get expensive. Factor this in before taking on the responsibility- these freshwater puffer fish can live for many years!

In general, freshwater pufferfish is fed the following live and frozen food:

Frozen bloodworms
Frozen brine shrimp
Glass/ghost shrimp
Mosquito larvae
Freeze-dried mealworms
Freeze-dried krill
Whitebait fish for the larger species

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Feed your puffers two or three times per day, but be sure to remove any uneaten food before it can spoil in your aquarium.

Tank Mates

Many readers are probably wondering which tank mates work with pufferfish, and the answer is relatively few. Most puffers are naturally aggressive creatures, and their sharp beaks do serious damage to other fish.

It’s not impossible to keep other fish with freshwater puffers, but the easiest option will be a species-only setup. Speaking, the best tank mates will be other larger fish that are not shy to defend themselves.

It’s also possible to keep small, fast-moving fish species as tank mates, but just know that larger puffers will eat them if they can catch them.

Tank size matters too, and the larger your tank, the less risk you run of aggression. If you really want to add puffer fish to a community aquarium, choose the more peaceful species like the South American Puffer.

Health and Disease

Freshwater puffer fish are hardy to a range of water parameters, but they all require excellent water quality. Avoid overfeeding their tank, and make sure you perform regular water changes on your fish tank to keep nitrates down.

These fish should only be added to mature, cycled aquariums. Poor water quality causes stress in freshwater puffer fish and opens them up to a variety of illnesses.

Stress and injuries from fighting with other puffers are also common causes of illness, so choosing appropriate tank mates and setting up their tanks correctly is so important.

Many freshwater pufferfish are wild-caught and arrive at your local fish store in pretty poor condition, often with loads of internal parasites. Quarantine your fish before adding them to a tank with any other fish, and consider deworming as an extra precaution.

FAQs

Are Puffers Easy To Keep?

Puffers are not a good choice for beginner fish keepers. These guys have a specialized diet, and do not get along very well with other fish. However, aquarists that have kept fish for a few years should have no problem caring for these fascinating creatures if they are willing to provide the right food and maintenance.

Can They Live With Other Fish?

Pufferfish can live with other fish species, but there’s a high chance of fin nipping and other aggressive behaviors if you don’t choose the right tank mates. Species like the South American puffer get along great with many freshwater fish, but others like the Fahaka puffer are extremely territorial and aggressive.

Are They Good Pets?

Pufferfish are well known for being great ‘wet pets’. These fish are naturally inquisitive and highly interactive with their owners. However, keeping them happy and healthy requires more dedication than many air-breathing pets.

Are these fish species aggressive?

Freshwater puffer fish temperaments vary between species and even individuals. They are semi-aggressive or aggressive and they often bite other fish and even other members of their own species.

How Big Do They Get?

Freshwater puffer fish range in size from the tiny dwarf puffer and imitator puffer fish at an inch long to the massive mbu puffer fish that grows to 30 inches. There are many species that grow to just a few inches, and these are great for a mid-size aquarium.

Final Thoughts

Pufferfish are rockstars in the fishkeeping world. Their fascinating behaviors and larger-than-life personalities make them a great choice for more experienced fish keepers who want an exotic pet.

Do you have a favorite freshwater puffer fish species? Share your opinion below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

March 18, 2023

Hatchetfish Care Guide: The Surface-Dwelling Jumpers That Fill Your Tank’s Top Level

Hatchetfish are the only freshwater fish that can genuinely fly. They launch themselves out of the water using powerful pectoral muscles, and they will do it right out of your tank if you give them the chance. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. It is the single non-negotiable requirement for keeping any hatchetfish species.

Hatchetfish fly. Your lid is either tight or your fish is on the floor. There is no in-between.

The Reality of Keeping Hatchetfish

The jumping is not a behavior problem. It is instinct. In the wild, hatchetfish jump to escape predators and catch flying insects. In your tank, any sudden disturbance, a loud noise, a fast-moving hand near the glass, or a startled tank mate can trigger a jump. A lid is not optional. It is the most critical piece of equipment for this species.

They are strict surface dwellers. Hatchetfish spend virtually all their time at the surface. They do not explore the middle or bottom of the tank. This makes them perfect for filling the top layer of a community setup, but it also means surface agitation from filters or airstones stresses them. They need calm water.

They are more sensitive than most tetras. Hatchetfish are wild-caught more often than tank-bred, and they are more sensitive to water quality fluctuations than common community tetras. Stable parameters and gentle acclimation are essential. They are not a good choice for new or unstable tanks.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Not having a proper lid. I cannot stress this enough. Hatchetfish will find gaps you did not know existed. Every opening around filter intakes, heater cords, or airline tubing needs to be sealed.

Expert Take

Hatchetfish are one of the most fascinating freshwater species you can keep, but they demand a lid and calm conditions. When properly housed, they are the best surface-dwelling fish in the hobby by a wide margin.

Key Takeaways

Hatchetfish get their name from their unique ‘Hatchet-like’ body shape.
It is a peaceful community fish that enjoys the company of at least 6 to 12 fish.
They are the only true flying fish with large pectoral muscles that work like wings.
Many species of hatchetfish have bioluminescence with their own pattern of lights in order to communicate, attract prey, and camouflage.

An Overview Of The Fish Species

Scientific Name	Gasteropelecus sternicla
Common Names	River hatchetfish, common hatchetfish, silver hatchetfish
Family	Gasteropelecidae
Origin	South America in Brazil and in the southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	5 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Surface dwellers
Minimum Tank Size	20 gallons
Temperature Range	72. 81° F
Water Hardness	2 – 15 dGH
pH Range	6.0. 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg Layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Classification

Order	Characiformes
Family	Gasteropelecidae
Genus	Carnegiella / Gasteropelecus / Thoracocharax
Species	Multiple species across three genera

Origin And Habitat

Linnaeus in 1758 discovered the common hatchetfish; Gasteropelecus sternicla species. They originate in South America in Brazil and mainly in south and central America (Southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin). Common hatchetfish are also found in the small streams of Guyana and Surinam with dense vegetation (floating aquatic plants).

In their natural habitat, they are found in regions that are densely populated with aquatic plants. In the wild, the common hatchetfish are mostly found at the water surface and retreat occasionally when threatened or in danger. Mostly, you will find these fish species flying from the surface of the water, trying to catch flying insects.

Fun Fact: Certain hatchetfish species participate in the largest migration in the world, migrating from 1,500 meters (about 5,000 feet) of depth to shallower seas. They gather with their twilight zone neighbors in the shadows to eat at the zooplankton feast, where they consume crustaceans, copepods, floating fish larvae, mosquito larvae, and ostracods. But as soon as the sun comes up, it's time to head back to the twilight zone. The hatchetfish has no control over when the axe will fall.

The Definition Of Hatchetfish

The common hatchetfish species go by their scientific name, Gasteropelecus sternicla. They are known for their unique but strange-looking body that looks like the head of the hatchet. Hence, the term Gasteropelecus in their scientific name also refers to a hatched-shaped belly.

One of the leading reasons for their popularity is not their particular body shape, but their ability to leap from the water’s surface and fly through the air. River hatchetfish or common hatchetfish can also flap their large pectoral fins and catch flying insects. Thus, in the fish-keeping world, the hatchetfish bag the title of the only true flying fish.

Species of hatchetfish are able to fly more than 4 feet and move their pectoral fins like a bird’s wings in the air. As astounding as it sounds, the flying power of hatchetfish is a problem in hatchetfish aquariums as this ability also develops the need for a tight-fitting lid.

Characteristics

The common hatchetfish are small, shiny silverfish with a hatchet-shaped bodies. They are tropical fish found in mostly warm temperature regions at a depth of around 200 to 1000 meters.

Hatchetfish have deep bodies that are flattened from side to side. The tails are slender with big eyes. The common hatchetfish are often mistaken as their cousin relative, the silver hatchetfish. However, the common hatchetfish species are slightly larger than the Silver hatchetfish.

What Is The Average Size Of These Tropical Fish Species?

The average size of Hatchetfish is around 2.6 inches in captivity. However, the wild-caught fish is a bit smaller in size, around 1 1/2 inches.

How Long Do They Live?

On average, hatchetfish lives for about 3 to 5 years in captivity. Since they are social and peaceful fish, you should to keep a group of 8 or more fish to improve their life quality.

What Are The Different Types?

There are five different species of hatchetfish found in the aquarium hobby.

Silver

The most common type of Hatchetfish is the silver hatchetfish. They have silver bodies that seem almost transparent and a unique ‘hatchet-like’ body shape. The silver hatchetfish are great swimmers and are known for their ability to jump out of the aquarium. Therefore, always choose a tight-fitting lid for your aquarium.

Blackwing

The Blackwing hatchetfish are larger than the other species of hatchetfish. They grow around 3 inches in length with darker bodies adorned with metallic green or blue hues on the fins. Temperament-wise, they are semi-aggressive fish but generally peaceful fish, ideal for a community tank.

Marbled

The marbled hatchetfish are somewhat similar in appearance to the popular silver hatchetfish. However, they have smaller bodies and marble-like mottled coloration on their bodies. Marbled hatchetfish are schooling fish that enjoys the company of other species of hatchetfish. Thus, I advise keeping a group of 8 or more to keep your fish healthy and thriving.

Carnation

Carnation hatchetfish are the species that experienced fishkeepers would enjoy. That’s because they are sensitive to water quality and conditions, so little attention is required. Size-wise, they are a smaller species with a pink or peach-colored body.

Pygmy

The smallest species of hatchetfish are the pygmy hatchetfish (video source). They grow only up to 1 inch in length. Also, they have silver bodies with a black stripe along their dorsal fin.

Common Hatchetfish Care

The freshwater Hatchetfish is a particularly hardy fish. However, it is still recommended for aquarists with some previous fish-keeping experience. That’s because they are active fish and need lots of free swimming space. Also, they are highly prone to fish diseases such as Ich, especially when introduced to a new tank.

Therefore, you should to quarantine the new fish before introducing them into the community tank.

Are they hard to care for?

No, they are not difficult to keep and care for. However, you need a certain level of expertise in keeping their water conditions optimal. Species of hatchetfish are sensitive to water conditions. Therefore, a little maintenance goes a long way. It’s crucial to maintain your tank and clean all the decomposing organic matter, check water quality regularly, and clean fish waste.

These toxins pollute the fish tank and affect the wellness of your fish. Therefore, to cater to these water conditions, I recommend replacing the water on a daily basis. If your tank is densely populated with a group of fish, at least 50% of the water should be replaced every week.

Aquarium Setup

The natural habitat of hatchetfish undergoes rainy season and floods. So, thankfully, they can survive in a wide range of pH, GH, and other water parameters. Hatchetfish are tropical freshwater fish that appreciates water temperature between 75. 80°F.

Since they are schooling fish, they thrive in a group of 6 to 12 or more. I recommend keeping at least 12 fish in the community tank because they feel safer and more comfortable. Though hatchetfish are active fish, but not exceptional.

Therefore, the minimum tank size should be 20 gallons or larger. Regardless of the tank size, install a tight-fitting lid or hood because you will find them jumping out of the aquarium often. Besides, if you have installed a filter, heater, or pumps, you are sure to cover any openings with aquarium-safe materials such as craft mesh, etc.

Tank Size

Hatchetfish are not super active fish but they do require free swimming space, considering the fact that they thrive in a community of at least six fish.

The minimum tank size should be 20 gallons. I recommend a long tank with sufficient surface space as they will jump out of the water.

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Water Parameters

Even though hatchetfish are moderately hardy aquarium fish. There are specific water parameters to maintain for them to thrive in your aquarium.

The ideal water temperature should be between 75. 80°F.
Hatchetfish prefers slightly acidic water with a pH between 6.0 to 7.5 and it’s crucial to maintain the ideal pH range because changes in pH lead to stressful behavior in the fish.
They thrive in slightly hard water so the water hardness should be between 2 – 15 dGH.
Ammonia and nitrites are toxic for hatchetfish and harmful to their overall health. Therefore, install filters to avoid ammonia and nitrite buildup and test your water daily.
Nitrates: Hatchetfish can survive low levels of nitrates, but high levels can be detrimental to their health. Therefore, consider keeping nitrate levels as low as possible. The ideal range is less than 20 ppm.
Water movement: Hatchetfish are slow-moving fish that mostly swims at the top of the aquarium. They prefer slow-moving water and gentle current. The use of a filter is recommended, and aeration should be minimized to keep them healthy.

Filtration And Aeration

Hatchetfish are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrites. Therefore, installing a quality filter is important.

If you have a small tank of around 15 gallons, Hang-on-back filters are easy to install and maintain, and they provide excellent filtration. However, if you have a larger aquarium of around 20 gallons or more, I recommend installing canister filters as they are more powerful than HOB and ideal for larger aquariums.

For hatchetfish tanks, I advise installing sponge filters as they don’t produce strong currents and are gentle.

No matter what type of filter you use, it’s crucial to clean and maintain them daily for efficient results.

For aeration, it’s important to avoid strong currents in the tank as they can lead to stressful behavior. The use of air stones and air pumps is recommended for tank aeration.

Lighting

Hatchetfish occupies the surface of the water tank and does best in tanks with moderate to low lighting. Therefore, the ideal lighting for hatchetfish is moderate to low, depending on various factors, including plants, and species of hatchetfish. Low light aquarium plants are most ideal for them.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Aquatic plants and decorations are important for a hatchetfish tank because it provides hiding places and a fun natural environment for your fish. That’s because their natural habitat is laden with hiding places and vegetation. Also, plants improve the quality of water by absorbing excess nutrients and promoting a healthy balance of microorganisms in the water.

Some of the best aquatic plants for your hatchetfish are:

Floating plants: Amazon Frogbit, water lettuce, Salvinia, etc.
Mosses: Java Moss, Christmas Moss, etc
Other plants: Java Fern, Anubias, Cryptocoryne, etc.

For decorations, you should to add driftwood, rocks, and stones to create a natural environment for your fish.

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Tank Maintenance

Freshwater hatchetfish are simple to keep and take care of. To maintain their water in the best possible condition, you need to have a particular level of competence. Because hatchetfish species are sensitive to water quality, a little upkeep may go a long way. Maintaining your tank is essential, as is cleaning out all of the fish waste, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate buildup.

These chemicals contaminate the fish tank and harm your fish’s health. I advise refilling the water every day in order to address these water conditions. If you have a lot of fish in your tank, you should change the water every week by at least 50%.

Substrate

Hatchetfish are surface dwellers. Thus, choosing a substrate for their tank is not challenging. However, you need to consider the size of the tank, and the type of plants in your aquarium before choosing the right substrate.

Fortunately, you can keep any substrate you want as long as it suffices your tank’s needs. Fine sand is the most popular option for substrate because it does no harm to your fish’s fins. Gravel and Aqua soil are also common substrate options.

Community Tank Mates

Hatchetfish are peaceful fish that are relatively shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. Since they are schooling fish, always keep them in a group of 6 or more.

The bigger the school, the happier the fish. Some of the suitable tank mates for hatchetfish are:

Tetras
Rasboras
Corydoras
Gouramis
Dwarf cichlids
Dwarf shrimps
Other hatchetfish

What Do They Eat?

Hatchetfish are carnivorous fish that mostly feed on crustaceans and insects in their natural habitat. They have their mouths on the top of their bodies so they prefer eating surface foods such as fruit flies, mosquito larvae, and small vinegar flies.

In captivity, they accept live food, fish flakes, flake foods, and frozen foods. Basically, any food that is on the surface of the water. It’s recommended to feed them protein-rich food such as brine shrimp or blood worms, daphnia every day, etc. You can also feed them vegetables occasionally such as blanched spinach, zucchini, and cucumber.

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What Is The Feeding Frequency?

You should feed them several feedings a day. Ideally three times a day. However, make sure not to overfeed your hatchetfish otherwise, it will create health issues or water quality problems.

Breeding

Hatchetfish are egg layers. But in captivity, the common hatchetfish has failed to breed. However, the marbled hatchetfish are hardy and easy to breed as compared to other species.

Overall, the breeding of hatchetfish is challenging, but with the right conditions, it’s certainly possible.

Choose A Breeding Tank

Hatchetfish need a spacious tank with lots of hiding places, floating plants, and other] vegetation. Adjust the lighting to mimic daylight or use some natural sunlight to escalate the process. The breeding tank should have ideal water parameters with a pH range of around 6.0 to 7.5

Feed The Breeding Fish

Feed your breeder fish with high-quality protein-rich food that includes live or frozen foods such as daphnia, mosquito larvae, blood worms, and brine shrimp. This will help in the breeding and spawning process. Once they are well-fed and nourished, introduce the pair into the breeding tank.

The Perfect Timing

Hatchetfish breed in the early morning hours, therefore, mimic the natural environment of fish in the breeding tank. Gradually increase the light intensity and then reduce it in the evening to trigger the breeding behavior.

Keep An Eye On The Floating Plants

You will find the fish eggs mostly on the underside of floating plants or on the tank glass. Remove the adult fish as soon as they lay eggs as the adult fish might end up eating eggs. The fish eggs hatch in around 3 days. The baby fish need to be fed small amounts of brine shrimp with other small live food at least thrice a day.

Fish Diseases

Want an easy community fish? This is not it. Want a species that rewards dedicated care? The Hatchetfish delivers if you put in the work.

The hatchetfish are susceptible to Ich. Therefore, it is crucial to quarantine the new fish in a separate tank before introducing it to the community tank. However, if you don’t keep a check on water conditions, there are higher chances of your fish developing diseases.

Like most fish, these freshwater fish are subject to many other fish diseases, such as skin flukes, parasitic infections, and fungal or bacterial infections. Despite being hardy, these fish species still get diseases. Thus, whatever you add to your aquarium. new fish, tank decorations, aquatic plants, substrate, properly clean and quarantine everything before moving to the main tank.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Hatchetfish

The Hatchetfish is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Hatchetfish learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

FAQs

How Many Should I Keep?

Hatchetfish enjoys being in a school of at least 6 to 12 and even more.

What Fish Can Live With Them?

They are peaceful fish that are also shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. The ideal tank mates for hatchetfish are:

Tetras
Rasboras
Corydoras
Gouramis
Dwarf cichlids
Dwarf shrimps
Other hatchetfish

Are They Easy To Keep?

Yes, they are hardy and easy to keep. However, they are not recommended for beginners as they demand particular water conditions and tank maintenance.

What Do They Eat?

They are carnivorous that need a diet rich in protein. Frozen foods, live food, frozen fried foods, meaty foods, brine shrimp, tubifex, fruit flies, and daphnia are excellent sources of nutrition for Hatchetfish.

Are They Aggressive?

No, they are very peaceful and non-territorial. In fact, they are a great choice for a community tank. However, if they are kept in small tanks or containers where they feel threatened, they might become semi-aggressive toward other hatchetfish.

Are They Hardy?

Yes, they are moderately hardy fish recommended for aquarists with some prior experience.

Final Thoughts

Hatchetfish, like their unique name, are interesting and intriguing fish with unusual bodies, shimmery scales, and peaceful nature. The fish species, despite their many different types, share similar characteristics and behavior. Hence, ideal for community tanks and a treat to watch and care for.

Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

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Expert Take

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Temperament and Behavior

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