Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Scarlet Badis are one of those fish that stop me every time I see them in a display tank. The coloration on a healthy male in full display is genuinely remarkable for something barely over an inch long. I recommend them for experienced nano tank keepers who want something truly unique — but I also want to be upfront that they’re not easy fish. They’re picky eaters, prone to getting outcompeted for food, and need specific conditions to thrive. Done right, though, they’re one of the most rewarding nano species you can keep.

Scarlet Badis (Dario dario) are one of the most visually spectacular micro fish in the hobby — those red-and-blue stripes on the males are extraordinary for a fish that barely reaches an inch in length. I recommend them to experienced nano tank keepers, with emphasis on “experienced.” They’re notoriously picky eaters — many refuse dry food entirely and need live or frozen foods like micro worms or baby brine shrimp. They also do best in species-only setups or with very small, peaceful tank mates that won’t outcompete them at feeding time. Here’s the full care guide.

An Overview

Scientific Name	Dario Dario
Common Names	Scarlet Badis, Rainbow Badis, Scarlet Gem Badis, Bengal Badis
Family	Badidae
Origin	Brahmaputra River, West Bengal, India
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Intermediate
Activity	Active
Lifespan	Up to 6 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Bottom
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	70-79 F°
Water Hardness	2 to 15 KH
pH Range	6.6 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community aquariums
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What are they?

Scarlet Badis are freshwater fish species from the Badidae family. They technically go with the name Dario Danio. You can commonly refer to them as Rainbow Rainbow Badis or Scarlet Gem Badis.

If you’re here to look for a variation in your observing routine, they fit the role perfectly well. Aside from their active nature, they understand the assignment of bringing a rich diversity of colors to dull community tanks.

Scarlet Badis appreciate staying in groups. But territorial aggression is very common among males. Other than that, they can’t put up with substandard water quality. This is the core reason I don’t recommend them to new fish keepers.

Origin and Habitat

Scarlet Badis hail from shallow rivers and streams draining into the Brahmaputra River located in West Bengal, India.

You can also find them scattered occasionally across other Indian regions with the same water conditions that they are naturally intimate with.

According to resources, out of 100 species that were discovered by the Scottish Physician named Francis Buchanan, Scarlet Badis was one of those.

In their natural habitat which primarily consists of freshwater, another essential thing that adds to their healthy survival is dense vegetation.

Appearance

Scarlet Badis are very small fish that is oftentimes a strong drawback for many fish keepers. But being tiny doesn’t stop them from having distinctive physical features.

Before we delve into how they look, what are the main differences between males and females, and what physical characteristics set them apart, I want you to know a couple of things.

Scarlet Badis are rare fish in the aquarium trade. They are sold out as soon as there is any availability. Another essential thing to know is the inability to tell their genders apart at the time of making a purchase.

Young Scarlet Badis look alike. As a result, you can’t differentiate between a male and a female until they grow enough to develop visible color pattern differences.

In a young Scarlet Badis, you notice a common color variation of bright red, burning orange, or dull grayish shade. Any of these shades can cover their whole body including the abdomen areas.

Excluding their bands, the interesting part about them is the sitting of their fins. They have their dorsal fins and ventral fins starting at the same point.

The dorsal fin continues lengthwise towards their back with an addition of minor prominence in height at the end.

Then comes their caudal fin that looks spherical. The size of their caudal fins is identical to the mid-length of their bodies.

Starting from there, you see a set of vertical bands starting from around the front part of their dorsal fins. There are approximately seven stripes on their sides that stretch towards their fins.

The fins are outlined with a white shade, with their ventral fins marked with light bluish-white hues.

Coming back to their stripes, you see them evenly spaced out with up to 7-8 blue lines which also extend towards their fins. The shade of their stripes can depend on the base color of a Scarlet Badis fish.

While spawning, Scarlet Badis species grow a brighter shade, especially the males.              

This is their typical color variation. However, they can grow a thin orange shade running alongside their sides, too.

Male and Female Differences

Now comes knowing the basics of identification differences between males and females. Scarlet Badis are sexually dimorphic.

Sexual dimorphism includes the distinction between their colors and fins. The male Scarlet Badis feature bold colors. They are either bright red or orange. On the other hand, the females only give a grayish shade or a dull orangish shade.

Also, males have extended dorsal, anal, and pelvic fins, with the females having little to no prominence.  The fins of males are usually outlined with a soft blue shade covering mostly their dorsal and caudal fins.

The edge color is highly pronounced on their ventral fins which hang pretty low.

While the females do not feature any prominent physical characteristics, they have red and blue spots scattered across their bodies. Again compared to their male counterparts, the vividness is weak.

The females go as big as 0.79 inches with the males growing up to 0.51 inches in length.

Overall, Scarlet Badis are famous for their outlined fins. This feature adds to their beauty especially when they are swimming.

Types – 3 Different Varieties

There are currently 5 species in the genus Dario.

Since Scarlet Badis are small fish, it gets pretty demanding to distinguish them from other fish types with the same or similar body coloration.

1. Dario Dayingensis

• Origin: Yunnan, China
• Size: 2.2 cm (Males) 2.1 cm (females)
• Unique Traits: Palatine teeth, black blotch in males

There are some differences between Dario Dayingensis and Dario Dario. Fish from this species don’t have blue outlined fins. They do have the same burning orange as their main body color but lack stripes on the sides as well.

2. Dario Hysgnion

• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Size: 2 cm (males), 1.5 cm (females)
• Unique Traits: Bright Red body coloration

This is another similar-looking fish from the same family Bidadae. As compared to other fish, the males look scarlet and have extended pelvic, dorsal, and anal fins. Since they are quite rare, there’s not much information on their subject to offer (video source).

3. Dario Urops

• Origin: Western Ghats, Southern India
• Size: 1.5 to 3 cm
• Unique Traits: Golden Body with orange-outlined eye

This is relatively a new species originating from a small river located in Barapole Tributary of Valapattanam river, Kerala. Similar to Dario Dayingensis, they also feature black blotch on the caudal fin with a horizontal stripe. The males of these species have dorsal fins limited to their fin spines.

These species are easy to distinguish from Scarlet Badis by looking at their size differences, color variations, and presence of any unique trait as I mentioned in their respective profiles.

Scarlet Badis have more prominent fins, dorsal rays, and rounded caudal fins.

Lifespan

The average lifespan of a Scarlet Badis is around 6 years. Their life expectancy might improve with how you understand their natural environment conditions and with what level of care you put into their overall maintenance.

Average Size

Scarlet Badis go only as big as 0.79 inches, making them one of the smallest percoid fish species. Females are even smaller than males. They are usually 0.51 inches long.

Care

Unless you give these freshwater fish a strong copy of their natural environment, they will always shy away from social gatherings, healthy activities, and even food.

Don’t worry! Keeping Scarlet Badis happy is pretty simple once you know your way around them.

Before you construct their habitat, you have to understand certain things directly involved in their overall maintenance. Their ability to withstand poor water quality is zero. You have to give them fresh water to thrive, which includes frequent water changes.

The males tend to go aggressive with their male counterparts. They are highly territorial though less aggressive overall. These apparently peaceful fish can fight each other to death to win over any specific area.

Another important thing is their preference for thick vegetation. Scarlet Badis natural habitat has active plant life. While setting up their habitat, you have to focus on the quality and quantity of plants you give them.

Aquarium Setup

One of the easiest ways to make your pet happy is to give them a homely effect in their new environment.

Some fish can quickly adapt to environmental changes while others find it hard. To ensure that every individual fish is happy with its new home, you need to pay attention to major and minor details of their natural habitats.

Scarlet Badis inhabit areas where water is clear and shallow with lots of plants and hiding spaces.

These fish are generally shy. It takes them considerable time to blend in with other fish or even get comfortable with their own specimen. Caves and heavily planted tanks can help them with feeling protected.

While setting up their aquarium, make sure the water flow is low.

Tank Size

Generally, there are two ways you can keep these freshwater fish. You can either keep them in small tanks without adding fish from other species or get them a larger tank where you can go in a community setting.

If you have a small tank, which is good for beginners, you can house a set of 3-4 Scarlet Badis. The aquarium size should be 10 gallons for this setting. But if you have other plans, you can get a larger tank like a 20-gallon tank for a group of 10 Scarlet Badis. Make sure the males are not more than 4.

But this is not the sole reason I want to put stress on it. As I mentioned earlier, males are designed to display territorial aggression. It can become tough to manage huge numbers of fish if you have a small tank.

A larger tank will give the males enough space to build their territories without harassing other males. Fighting each other to death is very typical of a male Scarlet Badis. Make sure you handle them the right way in both small and large tanks.

Scarlet Badis are shy, except for the males acting aggressively.

If you have too small a tank, these fish will feel threatened by other similar-sized or larger fish. The last resort will always be hiding in caves. Unlike most fish, they are not that active in eating. Smaller tanks with several males or different fish will force them into staying out of sight, leading them to starve or take severe stress.

Water parameters

When it comes to one of the main elements of Scarlet Badis care, the right water parameters are always on top.

They are familiar with water that is slightly acidic, ranging between 6.5 to 7.5. Keep water temperature around 70 F° to 79 F°, with water hardness somewhere between 2 to 15 KH. An aquarium heater may be required if you keep other tropical fish.

Filtration and Aeration

To keep their ecosystem intact, a strong filtration system will help you. Scarlet Badis are freshwater fish and highly susceptible to dirty water.

The system you go for will solely depend on the type of aquarium you are planning to get.

For nano tanks, you don’t need strong filtration systems. A standard sponge filter will work fine. Even if you have a large home aquarium, make sure the filter you use doesn’t create strong water currents.

Add live plants to boost oxygenation levels. Also, change your water regularly to ensure there are no toxins in the tank secretly and gradually attacking your Scarlet Badis.

Don’t forget to test water parameters frequently. This will help you get an idea of how you should adjust the parameters.

Lighting

In the wild, they stay under the water, hiding from strong exposure to lighting. Since this is what they prefer, you can use light LED lights to monitor them without disturbing their peace and daily activities.

I would also recommend you expose your tank to natural light. This will help the live plants grow and give them a fresh environment.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Properly adjusted water parameters and active plant life work side by side for the overall well-being of Scarlet Badis.

If you go through their natural habitat, there is a lot of vegetation these freshwater fish use. Scarlet Badis use plants as a good hiding space from predators or for taking casual naps by staying under them.

They also establish their territories using plants. And during the breeding season, another function of live plants is carrying their eggs.

If you fail to give Scarlet Badis dense vegetation, it will cause extreme stress to the fish, leading them to act aggressively and unusually timid.

Here are some great recommendations for plants you can also find in their natural environment.

• Java Moss
• Cryptocoryne
• Java Fern
• Rotala
• Hygrophila
• Ottelia
• Limnophila
• Vallisneria

With introducing live plants, don’t overlook adding caves as additional hideouts. Make sure the caves are not too big or too small. Smooth-surfaced caves are good for fish with delicate bodies. Make sure you’re not using manufactured caves with jagged edges.

Tank Maintenance

If you are doing everything to give Scarlet Badis a healthy environment but not cleaning the tank, there’s no good.

To curtail their chances of going ill, you need to clean out almost everything you put in Scarlet Badis tank. From swapping out old water with new to trimming plants and washing out caves, everything holds importance.

How to clean their Tank

1. Take our aquarium rocks and caves and use a clean toothbrush to remove debris and alage. Wash with aquarium water.
2. Trim plants occasionally and don’t forget to weed out waste plant material from the tank.
3. Rub the aquarium walls off with something mild, then use lukewarm water for further cleanness.
4. Make sure you don’t leave the corners where the dirt can cling easily for longer.

Substrate

Scarlet Badis do well with any type of substrate. But if you want to give them an exact copy of their natural habitat, consider using the sandy substrate.

They spend more than half of their time exploring the bottom levels. Even if they travel to the middle levels, that happens only once in a long while.

Community Tank Mates

Temperament plays a major role in helping them fit in a community tank. Anything that brings them stress curtails their healthy activities and eventually their lifespan.

Scarlet Badis are generally peaceful fish with a calm predatory nature. They don’t attack fish that are their size or even smaller. But male Scarlet Badis go really wild if they feel threatened to get their territory snatched away.

Before you chalk out a list of some ideal Scarlet Badis tank mates, don’t forget to do proper research on every individual fish. Things like temperament, water parameters, and ability to stay out of the lane of their potential tank mates should be at the forefront of your mind.

Here’s a list of some of the best tank mates you can try out.

1. Sparking Gouramis
2. Chili Rasbora
3. Danio Fish
4. Dwarf Shrimp
5. Kuhli Loaches
6. Other Scarlet Badis
7. Pea Puffer
8. Chocolate Gouramis
9. Pygmy Corydoras
10. Otocinclus
11. Galaxy Rasboras
12. Guppies

Poor tank Mates

These nano fish don’t go over the size of 0.79 inches. You might get a similar-sized fish but if it’s super active with an interest in harassing other species, it will force your pet away into their hiding spaces.

You should also avoid any fish on a hunt for a suitable opportunity. Fish like these attack other fish with weak defensive skills to turn them into their next meal. Here are some of the worst tank mates for your Scarlet Badis based on their size and usual activities.

1. Angelfish
2. Catfish
3. Larger Cichlids
4. Dwarf Cichlids
5. Barbs
6. Shrimp
7. Betta Fish

Even though there’s nothing wrong with pairing up Scarlet Badis with Shrimp, your pet can most likely take advantage of their bigger size and snap up the shrimp.

Scarlet Badis tend to hide away if there’s any stronger movement around them. Housing them with active eaters will be another bad choice.

Breeding

Breeding scarlet Badis is fun and pretty straightforward. All you need is proper guidance to work it out successfully in your home aquariums.

Like other fish, they can’t be bred in a community tank. They are already shy. Hence, any slight interruption can turn them away from breeding successfully. Here is a video from Heather Nielsen showing the breeding process.

They need a species-only tank to get conditioned for breeding. You can say this is the first step to getting them started.

While there’s no problem in breeding them in groups, multiple males will naturally act aggressive. Make sure you have plenty of space and aquarium plants to keep their attention diverted to their female counterparts.

Start with pre-conditioning the tank by adding plant tannins (like indian almond leaves) to raise acidity levels up to their preferred mark. Then shift your focus on sexing them which is not that hard. Sometimes the species will act contrary, putting you into trouble. During breeding, males grow a more vibrant color of their base shade, which is bright red. Females also change their gray or brown color to a brighter shade.

If you are breeding them in groups, you’ll notice the submissive male group making their stripes prominent or imitating females to get their attention. They will also start moving fast around the females to get their attention directed at them. Apart from this behavior, they can also move their tails at a rapid pace to tempt the female.

Sexing

As I mentioned earlier, at the time of purchasing them you can’t tell their genders apart. But once you start conditioning them for breeding, males (usually larger than females) will show a bright and shimmery blue band traveling lengthwise on their pelvic fins.

Now if you have other plans, you can get the intended pair to another tank for breeding. Don’t forget to give them plenty of plants to use for laying their eggs on. Now comes the next step.

Once the males are done attracting the females, the female Scarlet Badis will start spawning eggs for the male Scarlet Badis to fertilize. She will typically go under any available leaf of a plant to lay her eggs on. They do this to protect their eggs. The average number of eggs that a female produces goes 70 to 90.

The male will take a week to guard them until the eggs are ready to hatch. And while he’s doing it, make sure you remove the female because she will leave anyway. Once the eggs hatch, remove the father as well to his previous accommodation. You can also get a nursery tank for the fry. Plan out the inner tank setup according to the number of eggs you have. You will generally need a heater, filter, and some Java Moss.

The fry will take a couple of days to absorb the yolk which will allow them for free swimming.

Once they start moving freely, give them infusoria. They can’t eat anything because they are too small and weak. Keep them on this diet for at least a week until they grow larger and become able to swallow down baby brine shrimp easily. You can also add micro worms to their menu. But don’t make haste. It might take them weeks to get ready for switching to foods like micro worms.

If the babies are looked after properly, they will turn into healthy adults. You can introduce them to the main tank after they grow up.

Food and Diet

A well-balanced and good round diet is extremely important to keep Scarlet Badis thriving. These micro predators love jumping at live foods like invertebrates.

To supplement their diet, you can always feed them brine shrimp, daphnia, small worms, insect larvae, mosquito larvae, and bloodworms.

Feel free to make variations in their diet. As an example, you can get them young fish fry and small zooplankton. Also, banana worms and grindal worms make another great choice. Just don’t overfeed these small freshwater fish. To further diversify their diet, give them snails. Scarlet Badis eat snails that are small.

Apart from these suggestions, you can add frozen food their to their diet. Make sure you always have plenty of options.

They don’t like normal fish food. And because of their small size, eating small fish pellets is also a demanding task for them.

If you’re a new aquarist, don’t hesitate to mix their diet with live and frozen food. This encourages these shy species to eat a good amount of food.

Common Health Problems

Scarlet Badis are susceptible to some common freshwater diseases. Luckily, there’s no species-specific disease among them.

Although they can withstand poor water conditions, it’s likely of them to eventually get ill. Stress also plays a major factor. Some of the common diseases they are prone to include:

Ich

Ich is a very common fish disease that can attack a number of freshwater fish species. This infection is caused by the presence of an external protozoan parasite.

Some common symptoms are:

• Tiny white spots on the body and gills
• Constant scrapping of the body against sharp objects
• Abnormality in behavior such as excessive hiding

Ammonia Poisoning

Scarlet Badis are immune to ammonia poisoning. If you don’t clean out toxins on time, Scarlet Badis will end up getting attacked rapidly by this ailment.

Some common symptoms are:

• Rapid gill movement
• Frequently traveling to the surface of the water for gasping for air
• Changed color of gills

Where To Buy

These fish can be hard to find at local fish stores. You will need to shop at specialty stores or consider an online fish store. If you are going the online route, consider a retailer like Flip Aquatics. You can purchase from them using our promo code ASDFLIPPROMO for a discount at checkout!

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

Scarlet Badis make great additions to any nano aquarium. They are active fish with great personalities and can be housed in small aquariums. With the right care, they are easy to breed. Have you kept Scarlet Badis before? Let us know in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Pygmy corydoras (Corydoras pygmaeus) are one of my favorite nano fish recommendations — they’re active during the day, they school tightly in the upper and mid water column (unusual for cories), and a group of 8-10 in a planted tank looks absolutely incredible. I’ve kept them in community setups and they’re completely peaceful and adaptable. If you’re setting up a nano or planted tank and want something with real personality, pygmy cories are high on my list.

A Brief Overview

Scientific Name	Corydoras pygmaeus
Common Names	Pygmy Corydoras, Pygmy Catfish, Pygmy Fish
Family	Callichthyidae
Origin	Tropical inland waters in South America, and is found in the Madeira River basin in Brazil
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Active
Lifespan	3 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Bottom Dweller
Minimum Tank Size	10 Gallons
Temperature Range	72°F to 79°F (22 to 26°C)
Water Hardness	6 to 15 dKH, but preferably below 8
pH Range	6.5 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

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What are they?

Pygmy catfish are one of the smallest fish in the corydoras pygmaeus family, Callichthyidae. Their native habitat is the Rio Madeira river in Brazil. The captive-bred specimens are hardier and tougher than the wild ones.

Pygmy cory catfish is a tiny fish species with a pale tan or olive color on their bodies. The black stripe also runs the length of the body through the nose to the tail fin. They are different from other species of corydoras because they reside in the middle as well as the bottom of the tank. The tiny size makes them ideal for planted nano aquariums.

Origin and Habitat

The native habitat of this species is South America, particularly commonly found in the Madeira river basin in Brazil, the Nanay river, and the Aguarico river.

Initially, they were considered a miniature Corydoras species of Corydoras Hastatus.

However, in the early 1990s, researchers found their distinct characteristics, and hence the Pygmy cory catfish species was introduced.

Appearance

Pygmy cory or Corydoras pygmaeus, as the name suggests are tiny fish species endemic to Brazil. The female Pygmy cory is an inch longer than the males reaching around 0.75 inches in length. Female Corydoras pygmaeus are found broader than males too, particularly when they are carrying eggs.

The Pygmy Cory has distinctive characteristics that set them apart from its counterparts. They have a beautiful teardrop-shaped body and a large head.

Also, the body is silver in color and a black line runs horizontally through the snout and tail fin. There’s also a second black line which is thinner and runs lower down along the body. The mouths of Pygmy cory species are under-turned with barbels that act as a sensor and help them find food at the bottom of the tank.

Lifespan

The lifespan of Pygmy cory is relatively shorter than other fish species. They live for around only three years on average. However, life expectancy largely depends on other factors such as tank conditions, food and nutrition, and proper filtration of the ecosystem.

Average Size

They are tiny fish with an average size of no longer than one inch in length. In some rare cases, they may grow for up to 1.5 inches in length.

Quick Tip: On average, the female Pygmy cory is one inch longer than the male fish which is closer to 0.75 inches in length.

Care

Pygmy corys are a popular freshwater fish among many fish keepers due to their small size and fairly hardy nature. They are also fun to watch with an active nature which appeals to most fish keepers.

Also, the expert aquarists believe there is not much to take care of, they have unique water requirements that make these fish somewhat demanding. Also, they have a narrow comfort zone which requires a great amount of attention for proper survival.

They are also prone to common fish diseases due to unclean environments. Thus, I recommend changing the water after every two weeks and cleaning algae before it overpopulates. The diet of your Pygmy cory should also be taken into consideration for keeping pygmy corys happy and healthy.

Aquarium Setup

Like many species, they do the best in an aquarium setup that mimics their natural habitat. The Pygmy cory’s tank should be well-decorated with aquatic plants and other tank decorations that provide hiding places and points of stimulation.

Since they are bottom dwellers, they spend a lot of time searching for food at the bottom of the tank. Thus, choose a substrate that won’t harm their barbels.

I also recommend adding grasses and shrimp flats because Pygmy cory loves it.

Tank Size

Pygmy Cory is tiny freshwater fish excellent for small aquariums. Therefore, a 10-gallon tank is ideal for a group of 4 or 8 Pygmy cories. However, if you want to keep in them a larger shoaling group, I would recommend increasing the tank size.

Each additional Pygmy cory needs an additional 2 gallons of tank capacity to remain comfortable in its habitat.

Water Parameters

As mentioned earlier, mimicking the natural environment of Pygmy cory is essential to keep them happy and thriving.

They come from the rivers and tributaries of South America where the water is fairly warm, cloudy, and full of life. The water flow is moderate so they have resistance. Also, the natural environment of Pygmy cory is rich in tannins that provide slightly acidic water as well. You can replicate tannins by using Indian Almond Leaves.

The ideal water parameters are:

Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F (22 to 26°C)

pH range: 6.5 to 7.5

Water Hardness: 6 to 15 dKH, but preferably below 8.

Filtration and Aeration

Pygmy cory is vulnerable to high levels of Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. Therefore, you should always aim to cycle and fully establish your tank before introducing them to the tank.

Also, I highly recommend changing 10% to 25% of the water twice or at least once a month because they are also very sensitive to frequent water changes.

I also advise monitoring the bacteria levels in the substrate. These fish species get plagued by bacteria infections. Thus, proper preventive measures should be taken to avoid risking the life of your fish.

Routine water tests should also be performed with an efficient water test kit, clean up all the leftover food before it rots, and remove all the dead plant and fish matter from the aquarium. Also, vacuuming the substrate help prevent many diseases. The water should be properly circulated to avoid biofilm from accumulating on the water column.

I highly recommend installing a sponge filter or power filter for the Pygmy corydoras species. That’s because these fish are tiny and you need to ensure the output of the filter is slow and the inlet tubes are not too big. For more elaborate planted tank setups, a canister filter is ideal.

Lighting

Pygmy corys prefer dim lighting. Thus, you can install dimmable or adjustable LED lights in your tank. You can also provide them with a heavily planted setup with driftwood pieces and roots, and floating plants, to provide shade from the harsh lights.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

The natural environment of Pygmy cory is densely populated with plants. Therefore, they are safe for a planted aquarium.

Plants like mosses and large-leaved plants greatly benefit them as hiding spots from the bigger, aggressive fish. Also, floating plants like duckweed to diffuse the bright lighting works the best for the Pygmy cory tank.

For decorations, you can go for Manzanita Driftwood, aquarium rocks, and other decorations.

Tank Maintenance

The Pygmy cory is susceptible to a common fish disease known as Red Blotch disease. The cause of this disease is stress that might be induced as a result of fluctuating water conditions and poor water quality. The red blotch disease along with other types of diseases can spread through the addition of new decors, plants, or even new fish to the tank.

Thus, it is important to carefully clean the types of equipment before adding them to your tank. Also, the new fish should be quarantined before introducing to the tank.

To keep things simpler and safer, it is recommended to check the water conditions and parameters regularly. Also, do weekly water changes to avoid additional stressors that can cause the outbreak of diseases.

Substrate

Since Pygmy cory is a bottom-dwelling fish, it will root around in substrate looking for food. Thus, I recommend adding fine sand or fine-grained substrate without any sharp edges. That’s because the sharp substrate might harm the barbels of your fish in the process.

However, I recommend fine sand for the Pygmy cory than the small, round gravel.

Community Tank Mates

However a peaceful fish, Pygmy cory is not suitable for a community tank. That’s because they are easily stressed or intimidated by larger, aggressive tank mates. Their mouths are structured in a way that they cannot even nip other fish or fight back when bullied.

Suitable Tank Mates for them

The Pygmy cory catfish enjoys the presence of small-sized fish with the same temperament. Here is a list of suitable tank mates for Pygmy cory:

1. Otocinclus Catfish
2. Chili Rasboras
3. Harlequin Rasboras
4. Albino Bristlenose Pleco
5. Ember Tetra
6. Panda Garra
7. Celestial Pearl Danio
8. Dwarf Ember Barbs
9. Guppies
10. Endlers
11. Pencilfish
12. Royal Farlowella
13. Zebra Danios
14. Cherry Barbs

Fish to Avoid

1. African Cichlids
2. Goldfish
3. Aggressive South American Cichlids like Oscars

Breeding

According to the masses, breeding Pygmy cory is a bit technical. However, I beg to differ. 

I believe breeding this fish is easy but breeding the fry can be a little challenging. They breed regularly provided that they have stable water conditions and a healthy diet and the more fish you add to the tank, the more the chances of breeding. Jay Miller also has a video below that talks about his breeding process.

To get them to breed, aquarists recommend feeding them a high protein diet with a decrease in water temperature by 2 or 3 degrees than their standard range. Also, for breeding conditions, the water has to be slightly acidic.

The female fish of Pygmy cory lays around 100 eggs. Out of them, the female holds a few eggs in a small pouch near the pelvic fin for proper fertilization.

A pair of Pygmy cory form a T-shape where the male releases its milt to fertilize the eggs. After fertilization, the fertilized eggs deposit on a smooth but clean surface such as tank walls or thin-leaved plants.

The eggs hatch in around 3 to 5 days. But before the eggs hatch, it is important to separate the parents as they will most likely eat their own eggs.

After the eggs are hatched, the fish fry eats their yolk sacs and becomes free-swimming fish. At this stage, the fry is so small that it should be fed with commercially prepared fry food or infusoria, crushed flakes, micro worms, etc.

The breeding tank should also be equipped with a sponge filter to avoid sucking the fry.

Some Proven Methods for Breeding Them

It’s best to stimulate the natural process of breeding Pygmy cory to get more success.

1. The water temperature should remain cooler around 10ºF the usual temperature to trigger your pair into spawning in the T-position.
2. To get soft and acidic water, I recommend using peat filtration.
3. Add more airstones to stimulate the stormy flow of your tank water.
4. Remove the adult fish or eggs from the tank because the adult fish will most likely eat the eggs.
5. I also advise Methylene blue to the tank water to avoid fungus from developing in the tank.

Food and Diet

Pygmy cory is omnivore fish and happily accepts dried foods, frozen foods, and live foods. I suggest adding high-quality protein-based tablets of granules as a daily supplement in their diet to ensure a healthy lifestyle and promote vibrant colors.

In live foods, you can feed them tubifex and bloodworms. However, keep in mind that Pygmy cory is a small fish that needs small food. 

You can also feed them:

1. Brine shrimp
2. Grindal worms
3. Frozen Bloodworms
4. Mosquito larvae
5. Freeze-dried foods such as tubifex and black worms

For plant-based foods, you can feed them algae wafers, sinking foods such as sinking catfish pellets, decaying leaf litter, Indian almond leaves, alder cones, etc.

You can occasionally feed them with blanched zucchini, spinach, peas, cucumber, and other green leafy vegetables.

Common Health Problems

Though Pygmy cory is a hardy freshwater fish species, it can still carry some diseases and infections. Some of the most common health problems include.

Skin & Gill flukes

Sometimes there is a worm-like parasite that gets attached to your fish. These parasites are so small that are impossible to detect by the naked human eye. The main cause of this disease is overcrowding the tank, high-stress levels in your fish, and poor water quality.

Symptoms of Skin & Gill Flukes

1. Itching
2. Mucus in skin
3. Redness and soreness of skin and gills

Costia

This disease is also caused by a parasite, Ichthyobodo. This parasite thrives in cold water temperatures and it’s very difficult to diagnose the disease in the early stages. The most common treatment for costia is mixing 3 to 4 grams of salt in one liter of water and dipping the affected fish in the salt water.

Symptoms of Costia

1. Abnormal patches on the skin
2. Clamped fins
3. Loss of appetite
4. Loss of weight
5. Itching

Bacterial infection

Bacterial infections are caused by the bacteria in the tank. One such example of bacterial infection is the Red Blotch Disease.

The disease can be treated with antibiotics.

Symptoms of Bacterial Infections

1. Bloating
2. Red ulcers
3. Red streaks on the skin

Differences between Male and Female

It’s difficult to differentiate between a male and female Pygmy cory because of their small size. However, females are slightly larger in size than males, especially if seen from above.

Where To Buy

Thes fish are readily available at most local pet stores and fish stores. However, if you want to order from a high quality online vendor. I would suggest Flip Aquatics. They quarantine all their livestock for 30 days. You can purchase them from the link below using the promo code ASDFLIPPROMO.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Pygmy fish are beautiful, tiny, freshwater fish that looks beautiful in your small aquariums. They are very peaceful fish that appreciates a shoaling group of eight or more fish in their aquarium. Have you owned a pymgy cory catfish before? Let us know your experiences in the comments below!

Guppies were one of the first fish I kept, and I can tell you from experience that they breed faster than most people expect. The first time a batch of fry appears, it’s exciting. By the third generation, you start asking yourself how to manage the population. Knowing how to spot a pregnant female, understanding the timeline, and deciding whether to separate her are all things that will save you a lot of scrambling. Here’s what I’ve learned about the whole process.

Guppies breed so readily that the challenge isn’t getting them to reproduce — it’s managing the population once they do. A single pregnant female can deliver 20–50 fry every four to six weeks, and she can store sperm and continue producing fry for months after being separated from males. I’ve watched beginner tanks go from 6 guppies to 60 in a single season. Knowing how to spot pregnancy, read the gestation timeline, and when to separate the female makes the difference between raising healthy fry and losing them to their own tank mates. Here’s everything you need to know.

Is My Fish Expecting?

This is a question that so many beginner fish keepers find themselves asking. If you think your guppy is pregnant, don’t worry, you’re at the right place! If you’re new to fancy guppies, it’s best to go one step back and find out whether you have a female guppy at all.

Male vs. Female – What’s The difference?

Figuring out whether your guppy is male or female can be very easy when you know where to look. Read on to learn what to look for:

• Gonopodium The best way to tell whether your guppy is male or female is to look at the anal fin on their belly area. Male guppies have a modified anal fin consisting of 3 fused fin rays. This structure is used to transfer a sperm packet to the female guppy fish.
• Body Colors Female guppies can have nice colors, but they usually do not show the amazing variety of colors that the males have. Most female guppies will have silvery bodies with some dull colors and markings.
• Body Size Female guppies grow much larger than males. They can reach 2.5 inches, a whole inch larger than the males.
• Fin Size & Shape In most cases, male guppies have longer and more colorful fins than females. Female guppies can have some color on their fins and tails, but it is usually pretty dull and the fins tend to be more rounded.

Signs Of Pregnancy

If you’re sure you’re guppy is female, the next step is to figure out if she is pregnant or not.

Guppies are livebearing fish which means they don’t lay eggs but rather give birth to free-swimming baby guppies. Male and female guppies are often kept together at the store, so if you buy a female from a mixed tank, there’s a good chance your guppy is pregnant.

So now you know how to tell which of your guppies are male and female, but how do you know if a female guppy is pregnant? Let’s take look at some of the pregnant guppy signs:

• Gravid Spot The gravid spot is the best sign to confirm whether your female guppy is pregnant. The gravid spot is a dark marking above the female’s anal vent. All mature female guppies have a gravid spot, but it will become larger and darker on pregnant females.
• Belly Size Changes in size and color of the guppy gravid spot are a great sign of guppy pregnancy, but you should also keep an eye on the belly size of the pregnant fish. Pregnant guppy fish develop a box-shaped belly as the pregnancy progresses.

If you have noticed these signs, congratulations, you have a pregnant female guppy! The next thing you’re probably wondering is when you can expect the baby guppy fish to be born, so let’s get into it!

Pregnancy Stages

Guppy pregnancy can be divided into different stages. Understanding the different stages of your guppy’s pregnancy will help you prepare for the birth and help you get ready to care for the guppy babies. Protim Aquatics has a wonderful video that shows the process. I’ll explain below as well in the post.

Stage 1. Mating

The first stage of guppy pregnancy is mating, and guppy breeding behavior can actually be fascinating to watch. Male guppies don’t have all those beautiful colors and fancy fins for nothing, they use them to impress the females!

Male guppies can mate by the age of about 2 months when they will start to show off and display to the female fish by swimming around them and flaring their fins in a mating ritual.

If the female is interested, the actual mating process will happen very quickly. The male will tilt his gonopodium forward and use it to transfer a sperm packet to the cloaca of the female fish.

Stage 2. Early Development

After mating the female will have a flat belly. A week into her pregnancy, her belly will start to look noticeably rounded. Her gravid spot is not very prominent or dark at this stage.

Stage 3. Growth Phase

As the pregnancy progresses over the next two weeks, the belly of your pregnant guppy will become larger until the gravid spot becomes highly visible by the third week.

Stage 4. Advanced Pregnancy

By the fourth week, the female guppy fish will look obviously pregnant. Her belly is huge and box-shaped at this time, and she is nearly ready to give birth. Look out for the following signs that your pregnant guppy fish will be giving birth very soon:

• Pregnant female guppies look for a sheltered spot to give birth about a day before giving birth.
• She will breathe rapidly, often at the surface.
• You might even be able to see the dark eyes of the baby fish through the belly of the mother guppy

Stage 5. Birth

The typical guppy gestation period is 25-35 days. With so much overlap, it’s tough to plan it to an exact day, but looking out for the signs in stage 4 can help you stay prepared.

It can take a few hours for your pregnant guppy to give birth to all of her babies. The guppy fry are curled up in a ball when they are born but they will start to swim immediately if they are healthy.

After giving birth, your female guppy can produce a new brood of fry after about a month. She can do this without mating with a male guppy again because she can store sperm for many months.

How To Care For Your Expecting Fish

So now you know how to tell whether your guppy is a female, if your guppy is pregnant, and you know about the 5 stages of guppy pregnancy. But what happens when she gives birth? How do you care for the babies?

In this section, I’ll teach you the basics of caring for your guppy fry. Let’s dive right in!

Tank Setup & Parameters

Guppies are adaptable fish that do not have any special requirements when it comes to tank setup. A ten-gallon or larger tank is ideal for raising guppies.

Guppies can be kept in a bare bottom tank, or over a substrate of your choice, but you should use a lid/hood over your aquarium to prevent any of your fish from jumping out.

Guppies are relatively hardy aquarium fish, but they prefer the following range of water parameters:

• pH: 7-8
• Hardness: 8-12 dGH
• Ammonia: 0 ppm
• Nitrite: 0 ppm
• Nitrate: < 20 ppm

Heating

Adult guppies can survive in a wide range of water temperatures, but I would strongly recommend using a heater to provide the perfect water temperature for your pregnant guppy and her fry.

The ideal temperature for your pregnant guppy is between 76°F and 80°F and the baby guppies will do great in the same temperatures. Make sure you pick up a heater that matches your tank size and a thermometer to keep an eye on the actual temperature, this will make dialing in the perfect conditions much easier.

Filtration

Filtration is something that many first-time guppy breeders don’t pay enough attention to. Baby guppies are not very strong swimmers, so you’ll want to use a filter that creates low water movement in their tank.

The fry are also very vulnerable to being sucked into power filters, so be sure to protect the baby fish by placing a prefilter sponge or tights over the filter’s intake. The best filter to use when raising guppy fry is a sponge filter.

Tank Maintenance

Pregnant guppies and fry can be very sensitive to poor water quality. A 25% weekly water change is recommended to keep your nitrate levels down and will also allow you to suck up the waste from the bottom of the tank. Just be very careful to avoid sucking up any of the tiny fry!

Tips For Avoiding Predation

Guppies will breed freely in a community tank, but there’s a reason why many of the fry disappear in a few days. Most aquarium fish will happily eat these tiny baby fish, including other guppies!

If you’re OK with that, you might still get a few lucky young fish that survive to adulthood, but you’re going to want to take some steps if you’d like to see more of them survive.

Provide Cover

The simplest solution is to provide loads of cover where the babies can hide while they grow. Live plants like guppy grass and Java moss are the best for this, but ornaments and caves can also work very well.

Growing live plants provides an excellent food source for the baby fish, which will graze on microorganisms that live on the leaves. You will need aquarium lights to successfully grow plants, of course.

Standard aquarium lighting will do fine for easy plants like guppy grass, although you’ll want to set your lights on a 6-8 hour per day timer and provide them with fertilizer to keep them growing well.

Set Up a Separate Breeding Tank

For fishkeepers who want to get serious about breeding guppies, a separate tank is the best way to go. This allows you to separate the babies from the other fish that will see them as a tasty snack. This method can be pretty stressful for the pregnant female guppy, but it definitely reduces the chance of your guppy fry being eaten.

Adult guppies don’t need a huge tank, and you can easily keep a trio in a 5 to 10-gallon setup and raise their fry in a 15-20 gallon grow-out tank. Once your female guppy is pregnant, you can move her into the larger birthing tank until she gives birth. The female can be moved back to the separate breeding tank once the fry are born.

A bare bottom setup is best for your fry grow-out tank because it is easier to clean and makes it easier to see and count your guppy fry. This tank should be equipped with a gentle sponge filter, and a heater, and include some java moss or guppy grass.

Use A Breeding Box

It is possible to let your female guppy give birth in your main tank, but still keep the newborn guppies safe from hungry mouths. Breeder boxes allow you to separate your pregnant female guppies from their fry immediately after they give birth.

The healthy fry can swim through into a separate chamber where the other fish can’t reach them. The young fry can be kept in the breeding box for a few days but should be moved to a safe place or released into a tank with plenty of cover after that.

Feeding Your Expecting Fish

Guppies are easy to feed because they thrive on a diet of high-quality fish flakes. Pregnant guppies should be provided with a more balanced diet to ensure the health and growth of the fry, however.

Female guppies are omnivorous fish, so feed them fish flakes, frozen brine shrimp, and small amounts of blanched vegetables to keep them in top condition.

Feeding Your Guppy Fry

Guppies don’t make great parents, so it’s a good thing baby guppies are born ready to fend for themselves!

The best food for baby guppies is baby brine shrimp, which can be provided twice per day. The babies will also feed on powdered flakes and forage for themselves on microorganisms growing on live plants.

How To Avoid Expecting Fish

If you do not want your guppies to breed, you’re going to need to separate the females from the other fish, but be aware that a pregnant guppy can drop several litters of fry after a single mating. The good news is that many fish-keeping stores will be happy to buy your healthy young guppies from you.

Consider keeping only males if you haven’t already bought your guppies and you really do not want them to breed. Even female guppies can be purchased and already be pregnant prior to place them into your display tank.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Having a pregnant guppy is always exciting because you just never know how many fry you’re going to get or what kind of colors and patterns they might have when they grow up! Caring for your pregnant guppy is easy, and with the tips in this guide, you can give the baby guppy fish their best chance of survival. Happy guppy breeding!

Do you have pregnant guppies in your fish tank? Share your experiences in the comments below! To learn more about guppies lifespan, check out this article.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Assassin snails are one of the most satisfying solutions to a pest snail problem I’ve come across in 25 years of keeping tanks. I’ve recommended them to dozens of people dealing with bladder snail or ramshorn explosions, and they work — methodically hunting and eating pest snails without bothering your fish or plants. They’re also interesting animals in their own right, not just a pest control tool. Here’s everything I know about keeping them.

Assassin snails (Anentome helena) are one of the more genuinely useful solutions to a pest snail outbreak — they hunt and eat other snails, including Malaysian trumpet snails, bladder snails, and ramshorns. I’ve recommended them to people dealing with snail explosions in planted tanks. One expectation to set upfront: they’re not a complete elimination tool. They’ll reduce the population significantly but won’t wipe out every snail, especially in heavily planted tanks with lots of hiding spots. They’re also peaceful with fish and with shrimp larger than themselves. Here’s the full care guide.

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Anentome helena/Clea helena
Common Names	Assassin snail, Bumblebee snail, Snail eating snail
Family	Nassariidae
Origin	Southeast An
Diet	Carnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	2-3 years
Temperament	Aggressive to other snails and shrimp
Tank Level	Bottom level and substrate
Minimum Tank Size	30 gallons
Temperature Range	70 to 80° F
Water Hardness	2-15 KH
pH Range	6.5 – 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Slow to fast
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Origin and Habitat

The assassin snail originates from Southeast Asia, including Vietnam, Thailand, Sumatra, and Malaysia. There, they live in freshwater rivers, streams, and lakes. They prefer a muddy substrate where they can easily burrow and wait to emerge for prey. Sometimes they will keep their proboscis exposed to stay alert about nearby food.

Assassin snails are very resilient and will adapt to most water conditions. This has led them to become the most predominant snail in some ecosystems as well as to become an invasive species in other countries. If left unmonitored, this can start to affect local snail populations.

Introduction

Got a snail problem? Assassin snails might just be the answer.

Assassin snails are unlike any other freshwater snail available for purchase in the aquarium trade. Though gruesomely named, the assassin snail is actually a perfect, peaceful candidate for the planted community aquarium.

As with most planted aquariums, live plants from the pet store may bring in unwanted pest snails that quickly reproduce and overpopulate the system. While some hobbyists use manual removal or chemical intervention to keep a snail population down, others turn to a natural predator: the assassin snail.

These small snails stay about an inch big at full size but have a big appetite for other snails and other meaty foods!

How Do They Kill

But how do these apex predators of the snail world kill? We’ll be honest, this isn’t for the faint of heart but the method used undoubtedly earns these snails their killer name.

How Do They Kill?

The assassin snail isn’t poisonous or venomous. Instead, they have a deadly tongue-like structure called a radula.

In most other aquarium snails, the radula is lined with tiny teeth that scrape away algae from hard surfaces and are harmless to other snails. In the assassin snail, the radula is designed to extend into the shell of other snails, scraping away and eating the mucus and flesh of the other snail while it’s still alive.

During this process, different fluids and smells enter the water column, attracting other assassin snails and leading to a frenzy. In no time, the only thing left of the victims is empty snail shells alongside a group of full assassins.

In most cases, assassin snails will only eat snails that are smaller than them or about the same size. This leaves larger snails, like nerites and mystery snails, largely unscathed; however, there is the chance that your assassin snails gang up on a larger snail and ambush prey them. Still, they prefer eating trumpet snails, ramshorn snails, and pond snails.

It should be noted that assassin snails have been known to eat freshwater shrimp as well as shrimp fry. While more uncommon to see, they will eat the dwarf shrimp from the inside out in the same style.

If you happen to find an assassin snail eating a fish, it’s very likely that the fish was already dead. Remember, assassin snails are very efficient scavengers that feed on meaty foods other than pest snails. They will gladly take the opportunity to eat a dead fish.

There is also the chance that your assassin snail will eat fish eggs as well as other snail eggs. However, they favor soft egg capsules. The hard egg capsule from snails like nerite snails will usually be ignored.

How To Identify One

Though more uncommon to happen, assassin snails can unknowingly come in on live plants and other aquarium decorations.

If you have decorative snails that you want to keep, then you’ll definitely want to know how to identify an assassin snail before they start eating your prized snails; to help prevent any pest snails from entering the aquarium at all, it’s always recommended to dip-treat live plants and quarantine.

The problem is that assassin snails stay small for a very long time and stay buried in the substrate. Once they’ve grown, they are very easy to identify, though.

Assassin snails grow to be about an inch big at mature size. Some of the larger individuals reach closer to 2 inches. They have alternating vertical black and yellow stripes along the sides of their shell.

They are most identifiable by the shape of their conical shell that ends in a sharp whorl. Along the sides of the shell are noticeable ridges that lead to their small foot. Two antennae and a proboscis will stick out from under the shell. The proboscis is the nose of the snail which helps to locate food.

Care

Keeping assassin snails is easy though keeping them fed can be difficult once the number of pest snails available starts to decline.

Tank Size

There is some discussion about the minimum tank size required for assassin snails. These are small snails that don’t create a lot of waste, but their diet and heavy preference for live foods make their recommended tank size bigger than expected.

In general, a 30 gallon tank is recommended to keep assassin snails. About one to three snails are recommended for a tank this size. More or less should be added based on the number of pest snails present.

If you are adding assassin snails for decoration only and planning to regularly supplement meaty foods, then hobbyists have had success keeping assassin snails in as little as 5 gallons. In these cases, waste management needs to be monitored as uneaten meaty foods can quickly affect water quality.

Aquarium Setup

For the most part, assassin snails stay buried in the substrate. They will greatly prefer a sandy, silty bottom as opposed to gravel. Otherwise, there are no special aquarium setup requirements for keeping these snails.

Assassin snails can gladly be kept in a planted aquarium. They are strictly carnivores and will not eat live plants. Since they don’t require algae to eat, providing surface area for algae to grow does not matter as much as it does for other species; always keep in mind the needs of your other tank mates, though!

Water Parameters

Assassin snails are very hardy and can adapt to most water parameters. They need 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and minimal nitrates. They are intolerant to traces of copper.

However, assassin snails are somewhat more sensitive to incorrect water temperatures than other snails. They do best at a constant water temperature between 70-80° F. Though they originate from tropical climates, they prefer relatively cooler temperatures–though, not as cold as some snails can endure, like pond snails.

Filtration and Aeration

Many freshwater snail species like to graze on the algae and detritus collected by sponge filters. Assassin snails do not benefit from this additional filtration.

Instead, they will happily live with whatever kind of filtration you choose to give them, including sponge, hang on the back, canister, and sump filtration. Some hobbyists even keep them in unfiltered tanks that rely solely on beneficial bacteria and live plants.

Additional aeration is also not needed. This may change due to the other species being kept in the tank and the overall bioload.

Lighting

Assassin snails can be kept in low, moderate, and high lighting. Again, lighting will depend more on the other fish, invertebrates, and plants being kept in the aquarium.

That being said, assassin snails spend the majority of their time in the substrate. If the lighting does bother them, they will have no problem correcting the situation by hiding more.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Assassin snails don’t care if you have plants or not, but their food might. As carnivores, assassin snails will not touch plants. However, many other species of snail, like Malaysian trumpet snails and ramshorn snails, love to feed on the algae that grow on leaves and stems.

To help create a natural habitat for these freshwater snails to grow and to supply your assassin snail with food, it’s strongly recommended to keep live plants.

Community Tank Mates

Assassin snails can be kept in a tropical community fish tank. However, they should not be kept with wanted snails or shrimp.

Compatible community tank fish include:

• Tetras
• Corydoras
• Angelfish
• Rasboras
• Dwarf gouramis

These snails are not bothered by fish, including bottom-dwellers, though avoid snail-eating fish species as assassin snails are easily preyed upon. There is some discussion as to whether or not they can eat small fish, but it’s likely they only target fish that are already dying.

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

It can be difficult to gauge how many assassin snails your aquarium needs. They eat about one to three snails every one to three days, so the total number should be considered in regard to food availability.

In general, about one to two snails are recommended per every 10 gallons.

Can You Keep Just One?

Yes! You can keep just one assassin snail. These snails aren’t particularly social and don’t need others to feel safe. In most cases, it’s best to keep only one assassin snail so that feedings stay easy.

Food and Diet

Feeding assassin snails isn’t as difficult as it sounds.

First and foremost, these snails will appreciate pest snails as the staple of their diet. If you find that your snails are eating more than your snails can reproduce, then it may be worthwhile to cultivate those snails in a separate aquarium. This doesn’t need to be anything elaborate. A 5 gallon aquarium with some fast-growing plants can be the breeding ground for many species of freshwater snails.

If you don’t have the space to set up another tank, then you will need other options. Believe it or not, assassin snails will accept fish flakes and pellets. A protein-rich food should help supplement your snail’s diet, but try a live and frozen food source such as blood worms.

These snails will appreciate a variety of live and frozen brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and bloodworms. Feedings should be at least two to three times a week.

Breeding

For a long time, it was believed that assassin snails reproduce slowly. While they may lay only one egg at a time, they are efficient reproducers (video source).

https://youtu.be/Pwb4OTZCmqs

Breeding assassin snails is straightforward. They are likely to breed on their own without any hobbyist intervention if a male and female are present in the tank. To begin breeding, gradually raise the water temperature over the course of a few days. Provide a rich diet.

If successful, the female will lay fertilized eggs. These eggs can be moved to breeding tanks to ensure that nothing eats them, though this is usually unnecessary. Assassin snail eggs are about 1 millimeter in size and translucent yellow or white. The eggs should hatch in about one to two months.

Many hobbyists think they are unsuccessful when they see the egg missing with no baby assassin snails in sight. Babies are very small and likely to hide in and around the substrate for the first several months, so it’s not uncommon to not see them for a while.

If you want to stop breeding assassin snails, simply squash the eggs as you see them appear.

Do They Reproduce Asexually?

Unlike other freshwater snails, assassin snails do not breed asexually; a male and female need to be present. They are also not hermaphrodites, meaning that they stay one sex for the entirety of their lives.

There are no observable differences between males and females, so breeding will need to happen in a group setting where there’s a good chance of having both sexes present.

Final Thoughts

If you’re struggling with a snail infestation, then an assassin snail or two will help keep small population explosions in check. These snails are very undemanding and can adapt to most aquarium conditions. They especially love spending time in the substrate but will emerge to hunt for other snails as well as to help clean up dead fish and other meaty wastes.

Just make sure that you can supplement your snail with foods after the pest snails have run out! It’s one of the most fascinating snails in the aquarium hobby. Let us know your experience with them in the comments below!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Plakat bettas are the variety I find myself recommending more and more — especially to people who want a betta that’s actually active and engaging rather than one that spends most of its time hovering in place protecting its delicate fins. I’ve kept both long-finned and plakat bettas, and the plakats just have a different energy. They swim faster, explore more, and hold up much better in tanks with any current. If you haven’t kept one, here’s what to expect.

The plakat betta is the closest thing to a wild-type betta you’ll find in the hobby — shorter fins, a more muscular body, and significantly more active than the long-finned varieties most people picture when they hear “betta.” Plakats were actually the original fighting fish of Southeast Asia before selective breeding produced those dramatic flowing fins. I personally prefer the plakat form: they’re more resilient, the fins don’t tear as easily, and they have a raw energy to their movement that fancy bettas don’t quite match. Here’s the full care guide.

If you’re looking for a fish that keeps you occupied with its fascinating activities, then the Plakat Betta is the right species to try out.

An Overview

Scientific Name	Betta splendens
Common Names	Siamese fighting fish, Plakat Morh, Plakat Betta, Wild Betta, Thai Betta, Shortfin Betta, Dragonscale Betta, Halfmoon Plakat Betta
Family	Osphronemidae
Origin	Southeast Asia
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Intermediate
Activity	Nocturnal active fish species
Lifespan	Up to 5 years
Temperament	Semi-Aggressive
Tank Level	Top
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	72-82 F°
Water Hardness	2 to 12 dKH
pH Range	6.0 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to fast
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Solo or Community tanks (with caution)
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What is It?

Plakat Betta, famously termed as Siamese fighting fish, is a part of the Osphronemidae family. They are a variant of Betta Fish though slightly less popular than their cousins.

Their enticing kaleidoscopic bodies make them ideal candidates for dull tanks. Another appealing fact is their lively activities.

The fish is not the best option for beginners. The reason is their territorial instincts and strong interest in attacking some tank mates to death.

Origin and Habitat

Plakat bettas are native to Southeast Asia. The regions include Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Laos, Vietnam, and Myanmar.

They were first sighted in Thailand by King Rama III almost 150 years ago. They were initially distributed within different Thai regions. But with time, the fish made successful attempts at inhabiting aquariums around the world.

Their water conditions and pH levels might slightly differ due to their different origins. We are going to discuss that in depth so stick around till the end.

Appearance

When it comes to offering a ton of different shades, Plakat Bettas are invariably ahead of other fish in the competition.

There are several varieties of them traded around the world. Some of them feature a silver base and sharp blue-colored fins with red patches scattered across their fins and overall bodies.

While the others come in a spectrum of deep-red fins with a touch of orange at the edges. These fish also have a bright silver base laced with deep blue hues. These patches are usually visible at their anal fins.

You might also see some Plakat Bettas featuring their full bodies in a lighter shade of mauvelous pink. The others, however, can report bright yellow fins with shimmery tons of blue. The head looks pink and sometimes red in these species.

If you have a prior experience with bettas, finding the most common variant will be pretty easy.

Plakat Bettas have cylindrical-shaped bodies. As a result, they look quite compressed when compared to a standard betta.

There are only minor differences to tell them apart. One of which is the head. The head recedes to a certain point at their mouths. They have upturned mouths which add to their uniqueness.

However, one of the major differences between them is the fins of Plakat Bettas. They have sword-like pelvic fins, circular-shaped dorsal fins, and elongated anal fins. Their dorsal fins are apparent on the lower side of their back.

Overall, the Plakat Betta has a dramatic tail and a strong frame.

Their fins are generally smaller, helping them stand firm against their opponents. Another reason why they are called strong fighting fish is the prominent rays on their tail and dorsal fins. These rays help them protect their fins from shedding.

Typically, bettas with long flowing fins are seen in aquariums. These long-finned bettas are prone to fin nipping and fin rot. And that’s why aquarists only house them with peaceful fish species.

As common with other fish, telling their genders apart is easy.

The male Plakat Bettas are brighter than the females. They also look larger when compared to their female counterparts. The female Plakat Bettas, however, have multi-colored fins that set them apart.

While in the deeper levels of water, the fish often travel up to the surface. Aside from their gills. they have a labyrinth organ that helps them respire oxygen from the air.

There are some common varieties available in the aquarium line. Here are a few of them that might strike your attention.

Types

There are several Plakat Betta types you can try. Here are the most popular below

1. Dragon

Dragon Betta (video source) or Dragon Scale Betta is variety of Plakat Bettas. They feature a metallic-colored base and sharply pointed scales.

The color of their scales can vary from deep black to reddish brown.

2. Samurai

From the repeated attempts of breeding the Dragon Betta over a lengthy period, the result came out beautifully shocking and unique.

The Samurai Betta might look like the Dragon Betta. But, it has a strong deep black base color with a silver coating around the scales.

There’s another coating of the same shade on the face. You can also see a thick silvery band running lengthwise down its body to the edges.

Samurai Bettas sometimes have their heads covered with white gold, with their middle body sections completely devoid of color patterns. Other times, they have shimmery silver shades striking their fins, backs, and heads.

3. Blue Rim

As a result of intense breeding taking place over the years, this is another beautiful type of Plakat Betta (video source).

The fish from this category has up to 3 different shades. The base appears white, with the fins having a beautiful shade of blue. Sometimes the base can look different depending on the lighting.

4. Nemo

Nemo Betta or the classic Nemo Betta has two different shades. It has a deep red color and a cool shade of melon.

The classic Nemo Betta is often confused with the multi-colored. The easiest way to distinguish them is by looking at their colors.

5. Mustard

Mustard Betta though extremely rate to find is another betta variety.

This type of Plakat Bettas was bred almost 25 to 30 years ago. They are now going extinct due to this fact.

These fish have blue bottoms with mustard-colored fins. Their fins can vary in the deepness of color depending on the process of breeding.

Their fins are not completely the color of mustard. You can light hues of their base color connecting the fins to their bottoms.

While swimming, their fins spread out like fans. And this makes them more enticing to watch.

6. Hellboy

The Hellboy Betta fish (video source) got its name from its unique appearance. This variety of Plakat Bettas has a color combination of charcoal black and bright red.

Like some other types of Plakat Betta, this category is also quite rare to find.

7. Koi Plakat

The Koi Plakat Betta is a high-grade colored fish. Every individual fish from this variety has over 5 different colors which look amazing to the eye. The body coloration in these fish is usually strong, with different shades mixing into one another.

Plakat vs Halfmoon Plakat Betta

The major difference between a Plakat Betta and a Halfmoon Betta is their fins.

If you compare Plakat Bettas with their cousins, fins will be the most noticeable difference among them.

A Halfmoon Betta has long fins. But to dart quickly around, on the battlefield, A Plakat Betta needs short fins to protect them from getting ripped up.

Another contrasting difference is their anal fins. Unlike Plakats, Halfmoon Bettas have shorter anal fins. These fins extend from their abdomens. While the former species have elongated anal fins that project from their backs.

Lifespan

The generally predicated lifespan of healthy Plakat Bettas is between 3 to 5 years.

However, their life expectancy can improve with the level of care and efforts you put into their maintenance.

As Plakat Bettas are almost always in the game of fighting other fish to death. As a result, their overall life endurance can get seriously influenced. So, it’s always better to monitor them closely for as long as possible.

Average Size

Plakat Bettas are pretty small, reaching up to 2 to 3 inches in length only. There’s no difference between the Plakat Bettas coming from the wild versus those who are captive-bred.

Care

In this part, I’ll give you some insights into exactly what goes into their proper management.

Since these fish are infamous for their high territorial behavior, you should be careful about this.

It’s almost impossible for them to open themselves up to other species. The acceptance rate is low. And there’s no way to stem the flow of their constant aggression.

But a proper care guide can improve their health. Apart from food requirements, proper tank setup and water parameters also hold intrinsic value to their transition.

Aquarium Setup

The fish in the wild inhabits areas with low oxygenation levels and high vegetation. They are sometimes found in rice paddies and small rivers and basins.

These fish are naturally trained to adapt to slight acidic-level changes and water shifting. But it’s good to replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible.

They are active swimmers who love to travel. While setting up their tanks, keep the surface open. If the oxygen levels are low, these wild bettas will use their labyrinth organ to fill in their oxygen needs from the surface.

Tank Size

Due to their small size, they are often sold in tiny jars and containers. While the stay in these jars is momentary, beginners fail to realize that they are active fish species.

The minimum tank size of a Plakat Betta is 10 gallons. Because they prefer staying alone, this is a good aquarium size. However, thick supplementation of live plants might disturb their free movement.

Therefore, a larger aquarium setup is better.

Water Parameters

These tropical fish prefer warm water temperatures. So, in their aquariums keep the temperature between 72° F to 82° F. The water hardness should be around 2 to 12 KH with slightly high acidic levels.

But to keep the pH levels accurately regulated, get a water testing kit. You can also use almond leaves in their tank for proper pH control.

Filtration and Aeration

Although these fish are kept alone, negligence in environmental cleanness can lead them to fish diseases.

To give them a healthy environment, you can go for a hang-on-back filter or a sponge filter. A strong filtration system weeds out toxins like ammonia and nitrate, making it safer for your fish to live.

Lighting

Unlike other freshwater fish sensitive to bright lighting, things are different for a Plaket Betta. The fish in the wild is often exposed to natural lighting. They frequently travel to upper water levels to breathe using their labyrinth organ. As a result, their tolerance of bright lighting is pretty good.

While constructing their habitat, you can replicate this condition completely risk-free. You will always see them active during the day while taking rest throughout the night. When the sun goes down, just dim the aquarium light for your fish’s comfort.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Plaket fish gives you the freedom to choose what goes into their tanks.

In their natural habitat, you can see a lot of plants. There are caves, as well as other hideouts that they use during the night hours. But these hiding spots will be beneficial if the fish is stressed.

An anxious Plaket Betta fish losses its ability to withstand potential environmental changes and personal adversities. To keep their remaining energy intact, the last resort is almost always caves or other hideouts.

Also, make sure to introduce live floating plants. Some great recommendations can be Java Fern, Java Moss, Moneywort, Anubias Nana, and Narrow Leaf. These can boost oxygenation levels which is strongly advisable.

For caves, both rock caves and plastic caves are great. Just make sure the edges are smooth because jagged surfaces can hurt your pet.

While using live plants, leave plenty of space on the surface so that the fish can head toward the surface for breathing.

Tank Maintenance

Regardless of how small you think your fish is, tank maintenance holds great importance. Not only does it help you with protecting your investment from going to waste, but it is also essential for your fish’s health.

The easiest way to do this is to follow these tips.

1. Take out plants that have worn leaves and remove dead leaves.
2. Use an algae scrubber to clean off the aquarium walls.
3. Get all the decors out of the tank and wash them off with aquarium water and a toothbrush.

Substrate

They are originally from Southeast Asia where they live in rice paddies and warm water areas. Generally, these areas have a sandy substrate that’s really soft to the touch.

So, adding a good layer of sandy substrate to the base of their aquarium is ideal. You can also use soft rocks and driftwood.

Community Tank Mates

While it’s true that these fish are largely kept solo, you can still find some good tank mates for them in a community tank.

Mostly, the male Plakat Betta has no tolerance for its parallel. The moment two males bump into each other is the moment they start fish fighting. The reason is simple yet quite funny. Both males think that the other will take hold of their territory. To stop the other, they start fighting.

While the males can’t coexist, females have no problem sharing the same tank.

Here are some good tank mates to consider.

1. Honey Gouramis
2. Cory Catfish
3. Diamond Tetras
4. Congo Tetras
5. Cherry Barbs
6. Odessa Barbs

Poor Tank Mates

Any fin-nipping fish is a poor choice for Plaket Bettas and long-finned bettas. Avoid these fish from housing with a Plakat Betta fish.

1. Tiger Barbs
2. Danios
3. Neon Tetras

Breeding

Breeding Plakat Bettas is of course challenging. But it’s not impossible even if you’re a novice. All you need is proper guidance that can lead you to successfully breeding them.

Create a separate breeding tank for them. Then, heat up the water using a heater. You can also cover the surface to raise the temperature. The ideal water temperature should be above 78° F and below 80° F.

The pre-conditioning system should be based on feeding them high-quality protein foods. The timeline for getting ready to mate is at least 2 weeks. In these two weeks, you have to feed them a protein-based diet twice or thrice a week.

After this, guide the pair to the breeding tank. Let them get comfortable with the transition while feeding them the same diet.

While mating, the female Plakat Betta will show deeper shades of colors. The male as a typical methodology will keep chasing her until she gets filled with eggs.

Once they are done, the male will make a bubble nest. To support the nest, there should be plants already in the tank.

The first indication of successful mating and breeding is the male Plakat Bettas blowing bubbles up to the surface. The female will then release the eggs into the water which the males will take to the nest.

The male will fertilize the eggs until they are ready to hatch. It takes them up to three days to hatch. At this point, remove the parents because they can eat up the fry.

The babies take a couple of days to move from egg sacs to other foods. You can give them powdered food at the start. Then, move on to feeding them baby brine shrimp.

Food and Diet

In the wild, these carnivorous fish hunt down insect larvae and bug larvae to thrive. Brine shrimp, micro worms, and other live food are some other sources of protein that they need for healthy survival.

In the aquarium, the diet Plakat Bettas prefer is no different! It is also quite an easy dietary task to perform. 

Sometimes you might find it demanding to give these foods to them. As a result, you will go for commercial foods that pet stores sell. But remember to use a high-end brand. Many pet stores use chemicals in fish foods that are toxic for your pet.

Common Health Problems

Almost every freshwater is susceptible to fish diseases. In the Plakat Betta case, there is no exception. However, they are quite resilient and able to ward off common ailments easily.

According to our knowledge, selective breeding is the prime reason that they withstand common health issues. Here are some common diseases with symptoms of the diseases.

Fin Rot

Plakat Bettas can fight off fin rot, unlike long-finned bettas who are an easy target.

But, not attending to your fish can result in their catching this common disease in freshwater

Some common symptoms of fin rot are:

• Black, white or brown dots on fins or other body parts
• Ragged edges to the fins or tail
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy

Swim Bladder Disorder

This disease is usually caused by overeating in betta fish.

Symptoms are:

• Staying at the bottom
• Curved back
• Unable to stay upright
• Change in appetite

Ich

Ich is another common disease in fish. This ailment can attack long finned bettas, as well as your biting fish.

Some common symptoms are:

• Lack of activity
• Unable to stay focused
• Visible weakness

Where To Purchase

The best place to purchase Plakat Betta is likely going to be from an online seller. You can also find them at local fish stores, but the best varieties are usually from premium specialized sellers. The link below goes to a trusted seller of ours who sells What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) fish. Give them a try!

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

If you’re looking for an active and beautiful fish to add to your aquarium, the Plakat Betta may be perfect for you. With a little research into their temperament and what other fish they can live with, you can have these fascinating creatures swimming in your tank in no time. Have you kept Plakat Bettas before? Let us know your experience in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

Tiger barbs get a bad reputation, and I’ll be honest — it’s partly deserved. I’ve seen them destroy bettas, terrorize long-finned fish, and stress entire community tanks. But I’ve also kept them successfully alongside fast, robust species that can hold their own, and the difference comes down entirely to tankmate selection. If you want to keep tiger barbs in a community, these are the 15 species I’d actually consider compatible from personal experience.

Tiger barbs are the fish that most community tank guides tell you to avoid — and for good reason. They’re nippy, they’re fast, and they’ll shred the fins of any slow-moving, long-finned species sharing their tank. But kept under the right conditions, they’re one of the most active and visually striking schooling fish in the hobby. The key is keeping them in groups of 8 or more, which channels their aggression inward rather than outward, and pairing them with species that are fast enough to dodge them or tough enough not to care. Here are 15 tank mates that genuinely work.

Choosing Tank Mates – What You Need to Know

As I mentioned earlier, if you don’t understand how Tiger Barbs tend to behave with different fish species, they will be pretty hard to handle.

Matching water parameters, size, temperament, and tolerance power are some contributing factors in a healthy community tank. Sometimes, it depends on how strong the potential tank mate is.

Important: Tiger Barbs are semi aggressive fish with a deep interest in fin nipping. Long finned fish from their own species or fish from other groups can't survive with them.

Here are some of the most essential things to note down before you pick tank mates for your fish.

Temperament

Temperament is the key factor in avoiding/encouraging conflicts between fish species. While many freshwater fish are friendly, calm, and believe in growing their social communities, Tiger Barbs are famous for their territorial aggression.

Since they have temperamental issues, don’t put them with fish that are prone to getting their fins nipped. Any slow-moving fish should be avoided as well.

Size

Choosing tank mates for your Tiger Barbs that align with their size and water conditions is absolutely recommended. Even though Tiger Barbs are only 2 to 3 inches long, they are quick to get hostile which ends in picking on the other fish.

And if the fish is smaller than them, then the chances of consuming the fish are even higher.

Competition

When it comes to competition for food, Tiger Barbs are always ahead of other fish and can even eat tiny fish in the tank. To prevent this from happening, make sure that you are giving good access to food in your aquarium.

Parameters and Tank Setup

Similar to other fish species, Tiger Barbs also need the water parameters of their tank to match their requirements. And while you center your focus on this, don’t forget that there are going to be other fish in the tank that need you to meet their water conditions equally as well.

No matter what fish you choose to pair up with your Tiger Barb, no species can survive incorrect water parameters.

Though some of the fish can tolerate slight changes, remember to consider these parameters before you construct a community tank for Tiger Barbs.

• pH Levels – 6.0 – 8.0
• Water Hardness – 5-19 dGH
• Water Temperature – 77 – 82 degrees Farenheit
• Tank Size – 30 gallons
• Water Flow – Moderate to high

15 Best Tank Mates For Them

Before we delve into the list of their ideal tank mates, I want you to know that Tiger barbs are schooling fish. Housing a single Tiger barb will encourage its hostility towards other fish.

But you can avoid their aggression by keeping a group of 5 or 6 Tiger barbs together. This way, they will keep one another engaged with minor conflicts and won’t disturb their mates.

Also, introducing them after other fish in the tank will reduce their chances of going hostile. We have a video just for you from our YouTube channel. Our blog post goes into more detail so you can check out both. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos each week.

Now let’s go through the list of some of the best Tiger Barb tank mates you can house with them. These fish species are fast-moving, their size, and can withstand minor water siftings.

1. Clown Pleco

• Scientific Name: Panaque maccus
• Adult Size: 3.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Plecos are generally quiet and relaxing with a number of fish species. These tropical freshwater fish are famous as algae eaters and you can also refer to them as armored catfish.

As a general rule of thumb, if a fish has a placid nature, it should be large enough to thrive in tanks inhabited by Tiger Barbs.

Clown Plecos, therefore, are perfect tank mates for Tiger Barbs. They can stretch themselves up to 3.5 inches and live in larger tanks with lots of plants and caves to use as hideouts.

Despite the conflicts within the same species, you will hardly see them harassing their other tank mates.

2. Neon Tetras

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Brazil, Colombia, and Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

With offering you a vast range of types to look up to, Neon Tetras are the ideal Tiger Barb tank mates you will ever run into. These active fish are pretty small, going as big as only one and a half inches. But they hardly intend to disturb other tank mates they live with.

And as much as they are loved for their non-territorial conduct, their unique appearance is yet another plus point. They are fast and athletic enough to deal with a Tiger Barbs behavior

3. Ember Tetra

• Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
• Adult Size: 0.8 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-84 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Brazil
• Swimming Level: Middle

Like Neon Tetra, Ember Tetras are also a very popular aquarium fish. Despite their small size, they make peaceful tank mates for most aquarium fish.

They can live in the same tank where you put Tiger Barbs, but you have to monitor them closely for a couple of days. Like the neon, this tetra species is fast and agile enough to handle the Tiger Barb’s aggression.

Because they are smaller fish compared to other species on the list, they only need a 10-gallon tank to thrive.

4. Clown Loach

• Scientific Name: Botia macracantha
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-85 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
• Care Level: Difficult
• Diet: Carnivore
• Origin: Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Clown Loaches feature probably the most striking colors from the Loach family. Due to its unique appearance that includes deep horizontal stripes with orange and red hues on the body, the fish can help you improve the beauty standard of your community tank.

These peaceful community fish lack scales, making them almost defenseless to poor water conditions.

The standard size of Clown Loaches is 12 inches. But they are wonderful to group with Tiger Barbs. And like other schooling fish, their preference for healthy survival is living in groups.

5. Kuhli Loach

• Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-86 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Despite their size, Kuhli Loaches can feel endangered by Tiger Barbs. To help them shield themselves, you have to give them plenty of caves to use as hiding spots.

They usually stay in caves during the day and travel through the bottom levels during the night hours. This helps them stay away from Tiger Barbs as much as they need.

They are shy and need to live in groups to stay confident.

Kuhli Loaches are not good with fast food consumption, which means you have to opt for both sinking and floating foods for their physical fitness.

6. Swordtail Fish

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorous hellerii
• Adult Size: 6.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Mexico and northern Central America
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

For a Swordtail fish, there is no downside that can hold you back from housing them.

This moderate-sized fish has colorful and striking bodies with a typically larger tail. They are known for establishing harmony within the tanks and species.

Pro Tip: Inhabiting males and females in larger numbers will result in uncontrollable fry. So, it's better to have a limited group of pairs.

7. Red Tail Shark

• Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos bicolor
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Thailand
• Swimming Level: Bottom

A high compatibility rate is essential to consider when choosing Tiger Barb tank mates. Red Tail Shark, therefore, is an excellent and sensible option to go with.

These freshwater sharks can hunt down small fish or any slow-moving fish completely hassle-free. And like Tiger Barbs, they love to play mischievous around fish with sensitive fins or flowing fins.

But apart from these somewhat negative traits, they are known for their super energetic activities and striking color combination. In case you don’t know, Red Tail sharks are good at jumping out of the tank. So, keep a tight-fitting lid on the tank to ensure their safety.

8. Corydoras Catfish

• Scientific Name: Corydoras
• Adult Size: 4.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-80 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom and middle

There are plenty of tank mate options to choose from. But Corydoras Catfish can live up to your expectations as perfectly as other fish species do.

They have a friendly temperament and a good size to coexist with Tiger Barbs.

Aside from bringing along tank cleaning abilities, this hardy fish is a peaceful fish. And it gives you the freedom to choose their diet as long as it matches their basic taste.

They enjoy dense vegetation with properly gauged water parameters. But you have to give them enough swimming space to encourage tourism within.

9. Rosy Barb

• Scientific Name: Puntius conchonius
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 64-72 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level:

Rosy Barb is apparently one of the largest barb fish from its family. This active fish can give your tank a subtle rosy look in addition to enhancing the activity level within the tank.

Rosy barbs are another schooling fish that pose great qualities and skills to share a mutual tank with Tiger Barbs.

10. Cherry

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

Known for their capacity to withstand temper issues of Tiger Barbs, Cherry Barbs are an excellent candidate for community tanks.

Including their mesmerizing red-colored bodies, these schooling fish are friendly and peacefully tolerant of subtle water changes.

Cherry Barbs prefer planted tanks with plenty of rocks and hideouts. But make sure to give them enough space to swim through the middle water sections.

11. Tinfoil

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanenfeldii
• Adult Size: 14 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-77 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Thailand
• Swimming Level: Bottom and middle

Tinfoil Barbs are pretty large but peaceful fish. They are exceptionally active swimmers that need a minimum 125 gallon tank to enjoy free swimming.

If there are small fish species that feel threatened by a large and very active fish like Tinfoil Barbs, then it’s recommended to avoid the combination.

They are not aggressive fish, which means they can live through the cross temperamental issues of Tiger Barbs.

Pro Tip: Since they are quite big, don't add adult Tinfoil fish with young Tiger Barbs.

12. Platy

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-77 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Central America
• Swimming Level: Top

Platy fish are bright-colored fish that know how to bring peace to community tanks.

They come in various shades, ranging from orange, deep black, subtle red, yellow and silver to sometimes green.

The Platy fish are almost the same size as the typical Tiger Barn size. And like other fish that live in schools, these fish also thrive in groups of at least 5 or 6 from their species.

13. Odessa

• Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Odessa Barb (video source) is perfect to put together with Tiger Barbs due to the similarities between their preferred aquarium type and acidic levels.

These fish are quite energetic that want to leave their mark almost in every corner of their tank. If you want to boost their overall health, keep them in a group of 5, which is actually the least.

Apart from this, another added advantage of keeping them together is their identical dietary requirements.

14. Black Ruby

• Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Black Ruby Barb (video source) stands out pretty well in aquariums because of their peaceful qualities.

They feature beautiful shades of black and purple and love exploring well-planted tanks. Although their water conditions are similar to what a Tiger Barb prefers, they are better off with reduced pH levels.

Fish that are immune to fin-nippers can be an easy target for Black Ruby Barbs. So, I would recommend you to choose tank mates that have small fins.

15. Silver Dollar

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: Brazil
• Swimming Level: Top

On this list, Silver Dollar is another fish that has a strong interest in constant and fast swimming. These fish mainly consume plants and are cousins of Piranha.

Their shimmering stripes help them stay ahead of other fish in the aquarium line. Not only this, they become instant favorites of beginner and advanced aquarists because of their interesting habits.

Silver Dollar fish do great when kept in a group of 5 or 6. They are rather large fish species when compared to Tiger Barbs, but that’s totally fine. They don’t disturb their tank mates under normal circumstances.

This fish. however, has sensitive fins that your barb can attack pretty easily.

Tank Mates to Avoid

On this list, I walked you through the 15 most compatible tank mates including some of the most popular freshwater fish.

But as much as you want to find the ideal tank mates for your Tiger Barb, there are several fish species you should keep off limits for the welfare of your pet and these species.

Any fish, for example, susceptible to fin nipping should never be kept with tiger barbs. Also, most fish species discussed in this article are fast-moving. Therefore, avoid any slow-moving fish, as well as species that are too small.

Here’s a list of the fish species you should avoid.

1. Gold Fish
2. Betta Fish
3. Guppy Fish
4. Angelfish
5. Discus Fish
6. Fancy Gold Fish

You should avoid housing Tiger Barbs with Angelfish because their fins are long and sensitive to attacks. Another fish species is Gold Fish or Fancy Gold Fish. They too have beautiful long and delicate fins which are an easy target for Tiger Barbs and the temperature preferences are different.

Fish species like Guppy Fish, Betta Fish and Discus Fish are some other bad choices because of their fins.

Community Tank Setup

A perfect aquarium setup is more than necessary here. Since we are going to accommodate different fish species together, understanding their basic water conditions is close to their well-being.

Tank Size

Generally, the size of your community aquarium depends on the number of fish species you have. If there are two Tiger Barbs and a single Clown Loach, then you need to have a tank size of 180 gallons.

Some tropical fish on this list are quite big and need larger tanks for themselves. While others are small, they thrive in groups. Either way, a bigger tank will help you give them the best aquarium life.

In addition to this, fish that are active swimmers need space to enjoy their day-to-day activities. Since you won’t like them running into fish that avoid rapid movements, keep a tank with plenty of space.

Filtration and Aeration

A single fish can produce enough waste to disturb water quality. And when you keep different fish in groups that vary in size and activity, the result will be way more toxic and demanding to handle.

The best possible way to prevent toxins from piling up in your tank is to get a strong filtration system. A hang-on-back filter or a canister filter will be ideal. But make sure whatever devices you go for can create moderate water currents.

Tank Maintenance

Tank maintenance is the key factor directly involved with the overall comfort of your fish.

To get you off the ground, here are some easy tips to follow.

1. Make occasional water changes up to 45-50%.
2. Remove excess food and waste plant material.
3. Use a toothbrush to clean caves and other decors.
4. Clean the aquarium walls with an algae scrubber and top off tank as needed

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

While live plants give way to more oxygenation, they are important for almost all the fish on the list. The species do well when they feel at home, and thick vegetation can give them that home effect.

Some great recommendations for live plants can be:

• Java Fern
• Anubias
• Hornwort
• Java Moss
• Pygmy Chain Sword.

Substrate

For creating substrate, layer the base of the tank with a soft sandy substrate that is at least 2 inches deep. Some bottom dwellers will scan through the substrate for food while others with sensitive bodies can stay safe with a soft substrate.

Use manufactured caves for the bottom. Because bottom dwellers like Clown Pleco and Kuhli Loach can feel safe by their presence in their habitat.

Food and Diet

Your fish need a good range of foods to survive. Even if they tolerate variations in their diet, they still need you to feed them their favorite foods.

Since we have a lot of fish that are active, peaceful, and slightly wild, fair access to food is important.

You can give Tiger Barbs and their tank mates a mixed diet of live food and frozen food. Including, brine shrimp. algae wafers, and fish flakes. Bloodworms, insect larvae, mosquito larvae, and algae are some other great options.

The chances of competition can be really high based on the species. Fish that have friendly dispositions can be left to survive on leftovers. The other species that live in different water sections can also struggle to eat. In this case, using sinking and floating foods will be optimal.

Another crucial thing to keep on the forefront is the amount of food you put in the tank. Some species can get overfed if you don’t monitor who is eating how much.

Pro tip: Keep your Tiger Barbs well-fed to prevent them from nipping at the fins of their mates.

Where to buy their tank mates

All species on this list are hugely popular in the aquarium trade and easy to find. You can check them individually in your local store. And in case your desired fish type is not available, you can check out some online fish stores that you trust for the purchase.

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

If you’re looking for a little more excitement in your tank, tiger barbs can be a great choice. However, finding the right tank mates is key – without them, your tigers may become stressed and aggressive. With the right mix, though, they can be community fish that add beauty and interest to any aquarium. Have you kept tiger barbs before? Let us know your experience in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.