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  • What’s A Good Algae Eater For Betta Tanks? Here’s 7 To start

    What’s A Good Algae Eater For Betta Tanks? Here’s 7 To start

    Are you battling with unsightly algae in your betta tank? Adding an algae-eater or three can be a great natural way to keep this common aquarium headache at bay. However, there’s a lot of thought that goes into selecting the right species for your particular tank.

    In this guide, we’ll dive into some of the options that work, and some of the options that don’t. Read along to find the right algae eater for betta tanks!

    Key Takeaways

    • The best algae eaters for Bettas are mystery snails and Otocinclus catfish
    • Some fish are poor choices due to the betta’s aggressive nature or preference for warmer waters
    • Make sure to supplement food with your algae eaters as it’s likely for them to starve without it
    • Consider live plants if you want a more natural way to combat algae by having them outcompete outbreaks

    What Is Algae?

    Algae are plant like organisms that grow their food through photosynthesis. There are many types of algae and some of them are much easier to control than others!

    Algae-In-Tank

    Algae blooms are normal in new tanks that are still going through their first cycle. However, you can expect to see some algae in mature aquariums too.

    There are many ways to control algae growth, ranging from manual scrubbing to growing live plants, but adding a few algae eaters is probably the most interesting method!

    Increasing maintenance, limiting waste products, fish food, and reducing aquarium light duration are also effective techniques that can help you beat algae.

    There’s a lot more to learn about aquarium algae! check out my guide to 10 types of aquarium algae (and how to get rid of them!) for more detailed information.

    What You Need to Know About Temperment

    Betta fish are known for their aggressive nature, but they don’t always deserve this reputation. Many aquarists keep their bettas with a variety of other fish without any problems, although there are always risks involved.

    Veil-Tail-Betta

    You see, betta fish were originally bred for fighting, so it’s no surprise that many individuals still have a mean streak. Some bettas are just more aggressive than others, and it has a lot to do with their own individual personality.

    Tank size matters too, and upgrading to a larger aquarium can help to curb aggressive betta fish behavior. However, you should always have a backup plan in case your betta doesn’t get along with its new algae-busting friends.

    Go ahead and check out my guide to the 15 best betta tankmates to learn much more!

    Algae Eater For Betta Tank – 7 Top Picks

    There are many amazing algae eaters in the aquarium hobby, but these seven species are my top picks for your betta fish aquarium! Check out the video from our YouTube Channel and the additional details below from our blog post!

    1. Octocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific name: Otocinclus sp.
    • Difficulty: Moderate
    • Adult size: 1.75 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 70 – 77 °F
    • Algae types: Soft green algae and diatoms

    Otocinclus catfish are about the smallest algae-eating fish in the hobby. These nano fish are also known as dwarf suckers for their habit of sucking onto aquarium glass, plants, and hardscape features.

    Otos are extremely peaceful and make excellent algae eaters for betta tanks, although they are not the ideal choice for beginners or aquarists with small tanks. They can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, although 15 gallons or larger would be better.

    If your otocinclus catfish do their job a little too well and eat all the algae in their tank, you’ll need to supplement their diet with algae wafers and some soft greens like zucchini. They are social fish, so pick up a school of five or more.

    2. Nerite Snail

    • Scientific name: Neritina spp., Vittina spp., Clithon spp.
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 0.75 – 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Temperature: 70 – 80 °F
    • Algae types: Soft green algae, diatoms, green spot algae

    Nerite snails are the smallest algae eaters and the number one choice for small betta aquariums in the 5-gallon range. These hard-working mollusks are some of the best-looking inverts in the hobby, and they do a terrific job of cleaning algae in an aquarium.

    Nerites breed in brackish water, so there’s no chance of finding any baby snails in your tank. However, they will lay a few eggs here and there. Most betta fish will get along great with nerite snails, but some aggressive fish will nip at nerites.

    3. Mystery Snail

    Mystery-Snail
    • Scientific name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Temperature: 70 – 80 °F
    • Algae types: Various

    Mystery snails are large aquarium invertebrates that grow to about the size of a golf ball. They come in a variety of cool colors, making them an interesting display animal for your betta tank.

    These snails will eat algae and uneaten food in the tank, so they’re great for keeping your tank clean. However, they are not as good at algae control as their smaller cousin the nerite. If you keep just one, you won’t have to worry about any unsightly eggs, although they can reproduce if you keep two or more.

    Other snail species, like rabbit snails and ramshorn snails, are helpful for algae control, although you might want to avoid species like ramshorns and Malaysian trumpet snails if you don’t like the idea of breeding snails in your tank.

    4. Bristlenose Pleco

    • Scientific name: Ancistrus spp.
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 74 – 80 °F
    • Algae types: Hair algae, cyanobacteria

    Bristlenose plecos are excellent algae eaters for larger betta tanks of at least 20 gallons. They love to eat algae and graze on wood, so make sure there’s plenty of driftwood in the tank.

    Full-grown bristlenose plecos may look kind of scary with their interesting bushy beards, but these fish are very peaceful with other species and they won’t bother your betta fish. On the downside, plecos tend to produce a lot of waste due to their vegetarian diet, so they need decent filtration and regular tank maintenance.

    5. Molly Fish

    Black-Molly
    • Scientific name: Poecilia sphenops
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 3-6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 75 – 80 °F
    • Algae types: Hair algae

    Mollies are live-bearing fish that are surprisingly good at controlling algae! These hardy fish are peaceful but robust enough to hold their own against a grumpy betta.

    However, mollies are one of the larger livebearers, so you’ll need an aquarium of at least 20 gallons to combine these two species. Mollies also need fairly hard, high-pH water, so they will not make good betta tank mates in soft, acidic conditions.

    Mollies are very easy to breed, so you can expect loads of baby fish if you keep males and females together. Choose a couple of males only if you have limited space in your tank.

    6. Hillstream Loach

    Hillstream Loach
    • Scientific name: Sewellia lineolata
    • Difficulty: Moderate
    • Adult size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 64 – 80 °F
    • Algae types: Soft green algae and diatoms

    The hillstream loach is one of the most unusual freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. These little guys look almost like tiny freshwater stingrays, and they love eating algae!

    The hillstream loach is not the ideal tank mate for a betta fish, but you can make it work if you create an environment that favors both of these small fish.

    These voracious algae eaters prefer well-oxygenated, cool water with a rocky bottom, but they can be housed with a betta if your water temperature is kept in the mid-70s Fahrenheit. Adding an airstone for increased oxygenation and water movement will make them feel right at home without creating too much current in the water.

    7. Clown Pleco

    Clown-Pleco
    • Scientific name: Panaqolus maccus
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 3 – 5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 73 – 82 °F
    • Algae types: Biofilm on driftwood

    Clown plecos are not as effective as bristlenose plecos or otocinclus catfish, but their small size and peaceful nature make them great algae eaters for betta aquariums in the 20-gallon range.

    These fish are helpful algae eaters that can effectively clean up a small aquarium, although they spend most of their time feeding on driftwood.

    Others You Think Might Work, But Don’t!

    The recommended species mentioned above are not the only aquarium fish and invertebrates that feed on algae, so you might be wondering why some of the other algae eaters didn’t make the list. Read on to learn why these seven species don’t make good betta fish tank mates.

    1. Guppies and Endlers Livebearers

    Green Guppy

    Keeping guppies with your betta fish can be pretty risky, especially if you have colorful male guppies with big flowing fins. Their similar appearance may trigger some aggressive responses from your betta, but guppies are also known to nip betta fins.

    Guppies will feed on algae, although they don’t eat quite enough to keep a tank clean.

    2. Platies

    Red-Wagtail-Platy

    Platies are beautiful freshwater fish that can actually make good tank mates for your betta fish. Like guppies, these colorful livebearers are known to nip betta fins from time to time, but the main reason to avoid these active fish is their diet.

    Platies can be good algae eaters, but they just aren’t as effective as something like an otocinclus catfish or a nerite snail.

    3. Most Plecos

    Common-Pleco

    Plecostomus catfish are efficient algae eaters, although their size often turns into a problem. Most plecostomus catfish are simply too large to keep in a betta aquarium. Species like the common pleco can reach two feet in length, so adults require an aquarium that holds hundreds of gallons!

    Stick to the bristlenose and clown plecos unless you keep your betta fish in a very large community tank.

    4. Amano Shrimp

    Amano Shrimp Male
    Male Shrimp

    Amano shrimp are one of the best algae eaters for planted freshwater aquariums but they are not the best tank mates for a betta fish.

    Unfortunately, betta fish tend to nip at these gentle crustaceans and they may even eat smaller specimens. Some betta fish will get along great with amano shrimp, but it’s just not worth the risk.

    5. Cherry Shrimp

    Cherry Shrimp

    Adding cherry shrimp to your betta fish tank is probably not going to end well. Betta fish will eat these miniature invertebrates if they can catch them, so it’s really just a matter of time before these colorful shrimp disappear into your betta’s belly.

    Unfortunately, the same goes for other shrimp species like ghost shrimp and young bamboo shrimp. If you would like to attempt keeping shrimp with your betta fish, my recommendation would be to start with a few ghost shrimp or feeder shrimp and see how your fish responds.

    6. Siamese Algae Eater

    Siamese-Algae-Eater

    Siamese algae eaters (SAEs) are avid algae eaters, but you should think twice before adding these active Asian fish to your betta tank.

    Siamese algae eaters grow to 6 inches and they should always be kept in schools, so they need a much bigger aquarium than your average betta fish tank. Siamese Algae eaters also tend to stop eating algae as they mature, and they can get a little aggressive around feeding times.

    7. Chinese Algae Eaters

    Chinese Algae Eater Fish

    The Chinese algae eater is not a smart choice for your betta tank because these freshwater fish can grow to over 10 inches in length and need a tank of at least 55 gallons for long-term care.

    Even if you do keep your betta in such a spacious aquarium, there are more efficient and peaceful options for algae control.

    Cleaner Fish

    Some cleaner fish make great additions to a betta tank, although these helpful bottom feeders are not going to help with your algae problem. Many beginner aquarists assume that bottom feeders eat algae or that they do not need to be fed, but that’s not exactly true.

    Cleaner fish will happily snack on any uneaten betta food that sinks to the bottom, although you’ll still need to feed them a healthy diet. The following cleaner fish can make great tank mates for your betta fish, just don’t expect them to do much about the algae.

    1. Corydoras Catfish

    Panda Cory
    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 1 – 3 inches (depending on species)
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons for most species
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Provide a sinking food such as a bottom-feeder tablet

    Corydoras catfish, also known as cories, are gentle bottom dwellers that make great tankmates for betta fish. These schooling fish love to hang out at the bottom of the tank and search through the substrate for tasty morsels.

    Cory catfish are social creatures, so it’s important to buy a school of 5 or more of the same species. Smaller cories are a better fit for most betta aquariums, but keep in mind that the smallest species (dwarf and pygmy cories) tend to hang out in the water column or on plant surfaces more than the bottom of the tank.

    2. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Difficulty: Easy
    • Adult size: 3 – 4 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 73 – 86 °F
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Provide a sinking food such as a bottom-feeder tablet

    Kuhli loaches are small, eel-like bottom dwellers that will search the substrate of your betta tank for uneaten food. These peaceful fish are mostly nocturnal, so you might not see them too much during the day.

    Kuhli loaches are social fish, so you’ll need a small group of four or more. They will burrow into the sand or gravel of your tank, but be sure to add some hiding places like driftwood and rocks to help them feel secure during the day.

    3. Whiptail catfish

    • Scientific name: Farlowella spp.
    • Difficulty: Moderate
    • Adult size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 72 – 79 °F
    • Diet: Sinking foods and algae

    The whiptail catfish is one of the strangest freshwater fish species, but also one of the most peaceful. These camouflaged fish look just like a twig, which helps them stay hidden from predators in the wild.

    Whiptail catfish are actually good algae eaters in their own right, although you’ll need to supplement their diet with sinking foods like tablets and wafers.

    Other Techniques for Controlling Growth

    Algae eaters can be extremely helpful for cleaning up your betta aquarium, although they are not the only option. Serious algae growth is usually a symptom of an imbalance of light and nutrients and there are a few steps you can take to control this pesky stuff if you have an aggressive betta that doesn’t want to share their tank.

    Try these four techniques for controlling algae growth:

    1. Cut the lights

    Algae tend to thrive in high-light situations, especially if there are plenty of nutrients in the water. Make sure your betta tank is not exposed to any direct sunlight.

    Powerful aquarium lights will also benefit algae, so use a timer to maintain a regular lighting schedule of about 6 hours or so each day.

    2. Grow Live Plants

    Staurogyne Repens Plant

    Live plants look great and create and healthy home for your betta fish. However, their true benefit lies in their algae-fighting abilities!

    Healthy live plants effectively compete with algae and help to soak up excess nutrients in the water, so growing a few fast-growing stem plants can really help with persistent algae problems. However, dead plant matter actually decreases water quality, so take good care of your plants and fertilize them regularly.

    3. More Maintenance

    Poor water quality with high nitrate levels is a common cause of algae blooms. Test your tank water and perform regular water changes to keep your nitrate levels down to 20 parts per million or less.

    You can also clean and remove algae manually during your maintenance routine. Grab your algae scraper and clean the glass before sucking water out of the tank with your gravel vacuum. A toothbrush works great for cleaning ornaments, rocks, and driftwood.

    4. Reduce Feeding

    Excess nutrients from over-feeding fish is one of the leading causes of poor water quality and excessive algae growth. Feed your betta fish once or twice a day and watch to see that your pet is finishing all the food. Uneaten pellets or granules that sink to the bottom will go to waste and increase nitrate and phosphate levels.

    Can you have an algae eater with a betta?

    There are many good algae eaters in the hobby that can live with betta fish, although it’s important to select a species that will be happy in your aquarium. Most algae-eating fish need a tank of at least 20 gallons, so snails may be the best choice if you have a small tank.

    How do I get rid of algae in my betta tank?

    Algae eaters are a great way to manage excess algae, although you can also remove algae manually when cleaning your tank.

    Film algae can be removed from the tank glass with an algae scraper, while soft algae on the substrate can be sucked out with your gravel vacuum. Remove tougher algae on your hardscape with a small brush.

    What is the best bottom feeder for a betta fish tank?

    Corydoras catfish and kuhli loaches are some of my favorite bottom dwellers for large betta fish tanks. Malaysian trumpet snails are a good option for small tanks, although many aquarists prefer to avoid these inverts as they tend to multiply fast in nutrient-rich environments.

    Can you put a betta with a plecostomus?

    Plecos are good algae-eating fish for larger betta aquariums, although it’s important to choose the right species. Smaller species like the bristlenose and clown plecos are ideal for tanks of 30 gallons or more. Avoid larger varieties like the common pleco and sailfin pleco unless you have a very large fish tank.

    How do I control algae in my betta tank?

    Excess light and nutrients are common causes of algae, so make sure you aren’t feeding your fish too much, and avoid positioning your tank in direct sunlight or leaving your tank lights on all day. Good filtration, frequent maintenance, and regular water changes are also vital for keeping a clean tank.

    Final Thoughts

    Algae eaters and bottom dwelling fish are fascinating creatures that can help to keep your betta aquarium looking cleaner for longer. However, you should take your time before choosing your betta clean-up crew and make sure each species will live happily in your tank size and water parameters.

    Have you kept algae eaters in your betta fish aquarium? Share your favorite species in the comments below!

  • Vegetables For Fish – What Works (And What Doesn’t)

    Vegetables For Fish – What Works (And What Doesn’t)

    Tired of giving your fish the same food every day? Now imagine how boring it must be for them! Even for fish, a varied and well-balanced diet is a healthy diet.

    Some fish rely on vegetation and algae in their natural habitats. While most fish foods excel at providing protein value, some of the more micro-nutrients received through fresh vegetables and other greens get forgotten.

    Here’s how to safely prepare vegetables and other options available for widening your fish’s diet!

    Key Takeaways

    • Aquarium fish can be given an assortment of raw and frozen vegetables!
    • Veggies are a great way to keep fish healthy by introducing vitamins and minerals that aren’t offered in typical fish food.
    • Vegetables can be easily blanched and frozen for easy storage and long-term use.
    • Some fish don’t like vegetables or have never been offered them, so algae wafers are a good alternative instead!

    Vegetables For Fish – Which Are The Best Ones?

    The best vegetable to feed fish (video from our official YouTube Video) is one that will withstand being submerged, at least for an hour or two. This vegetable should not start to disintegrate once a hungry fish starts to get to it. Luckily, a variety of vegetable options can be blanched and eaten by fish.

    A good list of rotating veggies might look like:

    • Broccoli
    • Cucumber
    • Zucchini
    • Yellow squash
    • Spinach
    • Romaine lettuce
    • Carrot
    • Peas
    • Nori (great for saltwater fish)

    Not all fish will like all vegetables, so it might take some time to figure out which ones to include in your feeding rotation. Most hobbyists like to weigh small pieces down with a rubber band around a rock or a suction clip that attaches to the side of the glass.

    Does Your Aquatic Pal Need Them?

    Common-Pleco

    Before we even start to discuss how to prepare fresh vegetables for your fish, you need to know if these foods would be similar to something that they would naturally come across in the wild. A carnivorous fish will probably not eat a cucumber, no matter how appealing it might look!

    Most likely, you won’t be able to tell whether a fish is a carnivore, herbivore, or omnivore just by looking at it. There might be some signs, like sharp teeth or a sucker mouth, but even then, you can’t be fully sure. The best way to find out the natural diet of your fish species is by doing research about their natural habitat and hearing experiences from other hobbyists or your local aquarium store.

    Once you’ve established the natural diet of your fish, you can begin catering to it. If it turns out that you have a herbivore fish, then you might start to supplement blanched vegetables into their diet.

    Benefits of Veggies

    There are many benefits to giving vegetables to fish. The main benefit is keeping fish healthy by supplementing vitamins and minerals that aren’t supplied through typical fish food1.

    Spinach Photo

    The other main benefit is enrichment. By now, you’ve probably noticed that your fish waits to be fed at the top of the aquarium anytime you walk by. Feeding time is what they look forward to! Adding veggies is a great way to make feeding time even more exciting and unpredictable while also adding variety and balance to your fish’s diet.

    What Are Blanched Vegetables?

    Simply put, blanching means submerging vegetables or fruits into boiling water for a short period, quickly removing them, and then placing them into a bowl of water with ice. This process only takes a couple of minutes but helps preserve the quality of the vegetable or fruit.

    There are a few ways blanching achieves preservation. First, it inactivates enzymes that would otherwise begin to affect color, taste, and nutritional value over time. Similarly, blanching affects bacteria which would also cause the product to degrade faster.

    Blanching is especially recommended when using vegetables as fish food due to insecticides and other residues. Unfortunately, many unknowns are used to treat food for consumption, so boiling them first reduces the chances of those chemicals entering the aquarium.

    All in all, blanching fresh fruits and vegetables helps preserve them for longer and allows for easy freezing and storage. In the aquarium setting, most hobbyists only offer vegetables as fruits can be messy.

    Can You Serve Them Raw?

    Yes! Tropical fish can be fed raw vegetables. Blanching is recommended for hobbyists who want to keep vegetables on hand for future use. There are a couple of things that need to be considered, though.

    As mentioned before, veggies are often treated with chemicals and other preservatives. These should be thoroughly washed off before being added to the tank. It is also likely that these pieces of raw vegetables will end up floating on the surface of the water, so it might take some extra effort to weigh them down.

    How To Blanch Them

    Blanching Vegetables

    Almost any vegetable can be blanched, but not every blanched vegetable is good for the aquarium. Instead, certain hard vegetables, like broccoli, cucumber, zucchini, and peas, are some of the favorite feeding options for herbivores. This is because other vegetable matter can easily break down and start to affect water quality.

    Vegetables with strong aromas, like brussels sprouts and onions, should be avoided as they can start to affect water conditions as well.

    Buying Them

    This might seem obvious, but you need to purchase your vegetables at the grocery store. Your local fish store will not have fresh vegetables! Now the question comes down to picking the right veggies for your fish.

    Should you buy organic?

    You definitely want to pick the best vegetables possible to feed your fish, and you should be mindful of what you’re putting in the aquarium. However, there is likely little difference between buying organic and using regular produce. The blanching process should hopefully remove any chemicals or additives in either option.

    If you want to feed raw cucumber or another vegetable fresh from the rack, then it may be the better choice to buy organic.

    Preparation

    Depending on what type of vegetables you get for your fish, you might need to do some prep work. Think about how much food you want to give to your fish, for how long, and if you could use the leftovers for your own consumption!

    Some vegetables, like zucchini, cucumber, and broccoli, will need to be cut up into manageable pieces. The goal should be to slice to expose as much of the soft, inside flesh as possible as fish will likely eat these sections first. For something like zucchini, slice each piece to be about 0.5 inches. Most other vegetables, like spinach and lettuce, can be split apart and fed more easily.

    Now, you will want to consider how long you want to serve your fish this food. Fish eat as much as is available, so it’s not recommended to give it all at once. But you don’t want to be feeding the same thing for a month either! Prepare enough food for several feedings. Save some for blanching and save some for the dinner table.

    Blanching Steps

    Now it’s finally time to blanch the veggies. This process is straightforward and easy and almost impossible to mess up.

    1. Bring a pot of water to a rolling boil. The boiling water will activate those processes we talked about earlier!
    2. Fill a separate bowl with water and ice.
    3. Add the sliced vegetables to the boiling water.
    4. Allow them to boil for 1-3 minutes depending on the size of the slices.
    5. Remove the vegetables when they’re crispy. A crunchy vegetable needs more time and a mushy vegetable has gone too long.
    6. Add the veggies to the ice bath. Let them sit in the cold water for a minute or two.
    7. If you’re planning on freezing the vegetables, then wait until they’re completely cooled and dried. Then, store them in a plastic bag in the freezer.

    Feeding Your Fish

    When you’re ready to feed your fish, make sure to fully thaw the frozen vegetable matter. You may need to weigh it down with a rock or clip so that it doesn’t float.

    Allow your fish to eat. It might take some time for them to find and understand that the vegetable matter is food. Snails are also naturally slow!

    After a couple of hours, remove what remains of the veggies. If your fish and snails liked what they were given, you might just find vegetable skin left over.

    How Often To Feed Vegetables?

    How often you feed your fish fresh or frozen vegetables will depend on how many fish are present and their feeding habits.

    If you have a larger tank with lots of tropical fish, shrimp, and snails, then you will need more food to make sure that everyone is getting fed. Always make sure to keep an eye on uneaten food and remove any pieces that could potentially get stuck in the back of the tank.

    In general, fresh and frozen vegetables can be given one to two times a week to create a well-balanced diet.

    Alternatives

    While most aquarium fish enjoy a veggie snack every now and then, some fish simply don’t like vegetables, even if they’re herbivores.

    It makes sense why a carnivorous fish might not eat veggies, but why wouldn’t a herbivore?

    It is possible that your fish was never introduced to any foods other than flake or pellet foods. They might not know how to eat veggies! In cases like this, you can continue to offer your fish fresh vegetables until they take a nibble, or you could settle with a high-quality algae wafer or pellet.

    For saltwater fish, consider a product like Julian Sprung’s Sea-Veggies

    FAQs

    What vegetables can I feed my fish?

    Tropical fish love most vegetables! But every fish will have its own appetite. The best veggies to feed fish include lettuce, peas, zucchini, and cucumber. These can be given raw or frozen as long as they are prepared and thawed before serving.

    Can I feed my fish fruits?

    While fruits can be blanched and stored for serving later, it’s not recommended to give fruits to fish. This is because fruit is high in sugar, which can easily start to affect aquarium water. Because of this, it’s generally recommended to only give fish vegetables.

    How do I make prepared fish foods?

    Feeding vegetables to fish is quick and easy! Depending on the type of veggie you’re giving, you may need to cut it up into small pieces. These pieces can then be washed and added directly to the tank or blanched and saved for later.

    Why didn’t my fish eat vegetables?

    Every fish is different and yours might not enjoy vegetables! Instead, you can supplement those vitamins and minerals with algae wafers or pellets.

    How do I make prepared fish foods?

    Feeding vegetables to fish is quick and easy! Depending on the type of veggie you’re giving, you may need to cut it up into small pieces. These pieces can then be washed and added directly to the tank or blanched and saved for later.

    Why didn’t my fish eat vegetables?

    Every fish is different and yours might not enjoy vegetables! Instead, you can supplement those vitamins and minerals with algae wafers or pellets.

    Can saltwater fish eat vegetables?

    Yes! Saltwater fish can also be given vegetables even though they’re unlikely to experience plant matter in their natural habitats. Because of this, saltwater fish are more likely to ignore vegetable offerings, but some might take a nibble.

    Instead, saltwater fish can be offered different types of macroalgae and seaweed sheets. The most common type of veggie before Nori was popular was romaine lettuce.

    Conclusion

    Most fish love a selection of fresh veggies in addition to their staple fish flakes or pellet, though some fish don’t! These vegetables can be served raw or blanched and frozen for later use. Some options include lettuce, peas, carrots, and broccoli, but an algae wafer will substitute for more picky fish.

    Keep in mind that feeding fresh veggies can be messy and not all fish will enjoy the offer! Uneaten food should be removed if left untouched after a couple of hours.

  • How Long Do Fish Live? (Most Popular Species Revealed)

    How Long Do Fish Live? (Most Popular Species Revealed)

    Buying fish, or any other pet, is a long-term commitment, so it’s really important to consider their average lifespan. Most people have an idea of how long a cat or a dog might live, but what about fish?

    In this guide, I’ll answer the question of how long do fish live by providing the average lifespans of popular aquarium fish and dive into the factors that affect their longevity.

    Let’s get started!

    How Long Do Fish Live (By Category)

    There are over 30,000 fish species on the planet, ranging from tiny nano species to the majestic 60-foot whale shark1. Their lifespans seem to vary as much as their size and appearance, with some species surviving just a few months and others living for centuries! Check our video above for visuals from our YouTube Channel. We go over in more detail in our blog post so you can follow along with both!

    The average aquarium fish lives a few years with good care, although some species can live for a few decades. After reading this guide, you’ll see that there’s a lot of variation between the species.

    Size And Growth

    Unlike humans, fish are indeterminate growers, which means they continue to grow throughout their lives. It can be difficult to guess the age of a fish over at the pet store, but you can bet a large specimen has already reached a good age.

    Scientists have a more precise way of judging a fish’s age. They simply count the rings on their scales, kind of like the way you tell the age of a tree2. Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of concrete scientific evidence about aquarium fish lifespans out there, so most of what we know comes from the experiences of other fish keepers.

    Of course, many factors can affect how long fish live. For example, a fish that can live for ten years might survive just a few hours in a tank with incorrect water temperature, or it could surprise you and live for 12 years.

    We’ll discuss some of the factors that affect fish longevity later in this post, but for now, let’s go ahead and dive into the average life expectancies of some popular aquarium fish you might consider keeping in your tanks.

    Small Fish Lifespans

    Betta-Fish-Looking-For Food

    Smaller fish tend to have short lifespans, although some nano species can live surprisingly long! You could expect your pets to reach these lifespans with good care and a bit of luck:

    Medium Species

    Lake-Tebera-fish

    The average medium-size fish lifespan is between 5 and 15 years, which makes this group of fish a similar commitment to other popular pets like cats and dogs. Read on to learn about some popular medium aquarium fish lifespans.

    • African Cichlids: 5-10+ years
    • Angelfish: 10-12 years
    • Blood Parrot: 5-15 years
    • Blue Acara: 8-10 years
    • Bristlenose pleco: 10-15 years
    • Common Goldfish: 10-15 years
    • Convict Cichlid: 8-10 years
    • Discus cichlid: 10-18 years
    • Fancy goldfish: 10-15 years
    • Glass catfish: 7-8 years
    • Jack Dempsey: 10-15 years
    • Molly: 3-5 years
    • Rainbowfish: 5-8 years
    • Rainbow shark: 5-8 years
    • Siamese Algae Eater: 5-10 years
    • Silver dollar: 10 years
    • Swordtails: 3-5 years

    Large Species

    Arowana Fish

    Larger fish tend to live longer, although they need proper care and a suitable aquarium to reach their full potential. Let’s take a look at some big fish lifespans.

    • Arowana: 10-20 years
    • Bala shark: 10 years
    • Bichirs: 10-15 years
    • Black ghost knife fish: 10-15 years
    • Blood Parrot: 5-15 years
    • Clown loach: 10-15 years
    • Dojo loach/Weather loach: 10-15 years
    • Flowerhorn cichlid: 8-12 years
    • Koi fish: 25-35 years, but can over 60 years!
    • Oscars cichlids: 10-15+ years
    • Plecos: 10-20 years
    • Red-tailed Catfish: 15-20 years
    • Severum: 10 years
    • Tinfoil Barb: 8-10 years
    • Tire track eel: 8-18 years

    Wild Species

    Large Mouth Bass

    Just in case you were wondering how aquarium fish stack up against wild species, here’s a list of some well-known wild fish and their lifespans:

    • Atlantic Salmon: 5-8 years
    • Bluegill Sunfish: 5-8 years
    • Common Carp: 25-50 years
    • Largemouth Bass: 10-15 years
    • Rainbow Trout: 5-7 years
    • Sturgeon: 50-60 years

    Aquarium Invertebrates and Other Aquatic Animals

    Fish are not the only animals that live in fish tanks! Continue reading to learn about some other aquatic pet lifespans.

    • Cherry shrimp: 1-2 years
    • Snails: 1-10 years
    • Dwarf Frogs: 5-15 years
    • Turtles: 20-40 years
    • Axolotls: 10-15 years

    9 Factors that Affect Fish Lifespans

    The lifespans listed above are possible with good care and a healthy specimen, but tropical fish often live a much shorter lifespan than you might expect. There are many factors that can determine your pet’s longevity, and many of them are in your control as a fish keeper.

    Continue reading to learn about nine factors that can increase or decrease aquarium fish longevity.

    1. Age At Purchase

    Guppies Swimming

    This one might seem pretty obvious, but young fish can live longer than old fish.

    Most of the fish you see in the pet store are just a few months old, which means they still have most of their expected lifespan ahead of them. The large, mature specimens you see sometimes are much older, and it can be difficult to tell their age.

    Young fish may be more fragile and susceptible to damage than mature specimens, but if you can get them through the acclimation period and the first few weeks in their new tank, these fish can survive for many years.

    2. Stocking

    Bullying and fighting between the fish in your tank can cause stressful living conditions and reduce your fish’s lifespan. Some fish tend to be more aggressive than others, and you really want to avoid these species when setting up a community tank.

    I recommend stocking your tank with peaceful fish that grow to a similar size. This will also prevent any fish from getting snacked on. Remember, big fish eat little fish!

    3. Physical Size

    Frontosa-Cichlid

    If you’ve already scanned through the list of fish and their lifespans, you probably noticed a general trend. Medium-sized fish live longer than small fish, and big fish live even longer.

    Most small fish live about three to five years, while large species like koi can live for several decades. There are exceptions, of course. Kuhli loaches can live surprisingly long for their size!

    Tank size can play an important role in fish lifespans too. Keeping large fish in a small tank will lead to cramped conditions, poor water quality, and a reduced life expectancy.

    4. Genetic Factors And Fancy Breeds

    What is a fancy goldfish

    Genetics plays a big role in the lifespans of pet fish. Some betta fish live for over four years, although selective breeding has decreased the average lifespan of some varieties.

    Some fancy breeds tend to have shorter lifespans than wild-type fish. This applies to fish like balloon mollies and some fancy goldfish breeds. These fish may be more prone to health issues that affect their internal organs, but they can still lead a full and healthy life with good care.

    5. Water Quality

    Tap-Water-Source

    Poor water quality is probably the leading cause of reduced lifespans in pet fish. Keeping a tank clean and maintaining a healthy environment can be tough for beginner fishkeepers, especially if you start with sensitive fish species.

    Understanding the aquarium nitrogen cycle and testing your aquarium water regularly will help you maintain a suitable environment and keep your fish healthy, but having the right equipment is also crucial. Tropical fish need good filtration and regular aquarium maintenance to keep their water safe and achieve their full potential life span.

    6. Water Parameters

    Poor water quality is a major cause of fish mortality, but even well-maintained aquariums can be dangerous for some fish species.

    Each fish species has evolved to live in a certain range of water chemistry parameters. Some fish are highly adaptable, while others won’t survive unless you recreate their preferred conditions. Of course, freshwater fish should not be mixed with saltwater fish and vice versa!

    I suggest testing the pH level and water hardness of your local water supply before choosing your fish species. It is possible to alter your water chemistry or use bottled or reverse osmosis water in your tanks, but it’s always easiest to choose freshwater fish that will thrive in your local water.

    7. Temperature

    Incorrect water temperature can reduce fish lifespan to just hours, so this is one factor I really can’t stress enough. Tropical freshwater fish come from warm water habitats, so most fish keepers will need an aquarium heater to keep these fish healthy.

    However, you probably won’t need a heater if you live in a tropical region, or keep your home at a constant temperature between about 75 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Fish temperature preferences vary depending on the species, so always research the needs of each individual fish species before adding them to a community tank with other fish.

    8. Health Problems

    Fish are susceptible to various illnesses that can reduce their lifespan. Common diseases include bacterial infections, fungal infections, viruses, and parasitic infections like ich that cause white spots.

    Aquarium fish are most vulnerable to health problems when their water quality is low, but they can also develop illnesses when kept in unfavorable water parameters or with unsuitable tank mates.

    Disease outbreaks can occur when you add a new fish to your aquarium, so it’s best to confine new fish to a quarantine tank before introducing them to your community aquarium. That way you can monitor your new pet fish for a few weeks and treat them with veterinary medicine if necessary.

    9. Diet

    Diet quality is another important factor that can increase or decrease your fish’s life expectancy. Different species of fish have different dietary needs, so you may need to provide more than one type of food if you keep multiple species of fish.

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    Modern prepared fish foods contain just about everything your fish need to stay healthy, but you can also supplement their diet with some healthy treats. Carnivorous and omnivorous fish love live or frozen foods like bloodworm and brine shrimp, while omnivorous and herbivorous fish species enjoy healthy snacks like peas and zucchini.

    FAQs

    How long does a pet fish live?

    Depending on the species, most pet fish with live between 1 and 15 years with good care. The average nano fish will live between 3 and 5 years, while medium fish species have longer lifespans in the 5-15 year range.

    How long do fish live naturally?

    Fish in the wild probably live shorter lifespans than captive fish because they are exposed to more predators and dangerous environmental factors like floods, droughts, and cold snaps. Captive fish can live a surprisingly long life if kept in a clean tank with stable conditions and a high-quality diet.

    Which fish species has the shortest lifespan?

    According to the Guinness Book of Records, the fish with the shortest lifespan is the seven-figure pygmy goby. These tiny saltwater fish complete their entire life cycle in less than two months!

    In the aquarium hobby, livebearers like guppies and platies tend to have shorter lifespans than similar-sized egg layers like the neon tetra. The average guppy has a lifespan of just two to three years.

    Which fish live the longest?

    The longest-living fish species is the Greenland shark, a species of deep, cold waters in the open ocean. These huge sharks can reach about 23 feet and live for over 400 years! This is one fish you probably don’t want in your home aquarium.

    Which fish has the longest lifespan?

    Goldfish are about the longest-living aquarium fish species, and some specimens will live over 25 years with proper care.

    Koi can live even longer, although these beautiful fish from the carp family are usually housed outdoors in ponds. Their average lifespan is about 25 to 30 years, although one incredible specimen called Hanako is said to have lived for 226 years!

    Final Thoughts

    Fish lifespans vary between species, but you can use this guide to make a pretty educated guess about how long your fish will live. Of course, you’ll need to provide consistent care if you want your pets to reach their full potential, so check out my extensive range of fish care guides for loads of great advice!

    How old is your oldest fish? Let me know in the comments below!

  • Can Angelfish And Bettas Live Together (Why It’s A Nightmare Combination)

    Can Angelfish And Bettas Live Together (Why It’s A Nightmare Combination)

    Freshwater angelfish and betta fish are two of the most popular aquarium fish species on the planet, so it’s no surprise that many fishkeepers want to keep them together. On their own, these stunning species have a lot to offer everyone from beginner pet owners to advanced aquarists, but can they be kept in the same tank?

    Sometimes, housing bettas and angelfish together works out, but it depends on the tank, the fish’s personalities, and some other important factors. Realistically, you’re looking for trouble in the long run by housing these fish together, and there are much better tank mate options for both species.

    In this post, we’ll explore the relationship between these two aquarium superstars, and explain why you probably don’t want to add these two fish to the same tank.

    Key Takeaways

    • Betta fish and angelfish are not recommended as tank mates.
    • Some aquarists may have successfully housed these fish together in larger aquariums (55-gallon +) but it’s important to have a spare tank ready in case you notice any signs of aggression.
    • Bettas can be aggressive, but they are slow swimmers and stay much smaller than angelfish, so they are more likely to be the victim in an aggressive encounter.

    Can Angelfish And Bettas Live Together? – No!!!

    Here’s your quick answer. In the vast majority of cases, Bettas cannot live with Angelfish in the same tank. Now that you know the answer, let’s go into why it doesn’t work.

    Why It Doesn’t Work

    Let’s take a look at some of the issues you’re likely to face.

    Tank Size

    On paper, angelfish and betta fish prefer similar water parameters, so you might think they make ideal tank mates. However, these fish have very different tank size requirements.

    You’ll need at least 20 gallons to house young angelfish and a 55 gallon tank for adults, but just 5 gallons or more to house bettas. So, you definitely can’t add angelfish to a small betta fish tank.

    Aggression

    Both angelfish and bettas can be aggressive fish, depending on their personalities. Both fish also have long fins, so they can be vulnerable to fin nipping.

    However, a full grown angelfish is much larger than a betta fish, so if there’s any aggression, the betta is going to come off second best.

    Angelfish can become especially aggressive during breeding, so if you have males and females, there’s even more risk of them harming your betta fish.

    Illness

    Aggression can turn your community tank into a toxic environment that is as stressful for you as it is for your fish. Unfortunately, aggression also causes illness and even death in pet fish.

    A bullied fish often sustains minor injuries that leave them vulnerable to secondary infections. In some cases, aggressive betta fish or angelfish will even kill their victims outright!

    Betta Basics

    Betta fish (also known as Siamese fighting fish) are small freshwater fish that usually reach about 2.5 inches in length. Today, they are prized for their amazing colors and fancy fins, but these fish were once bred for competitive fighting.

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    Bettas have a reputation for aggression, although they can make excellent community fish. A lot depends on their individual personality, but male bettas are likely to fight with their own species if housed in the same tank. It’s always safer to keep just one betta in its own aquarium, or with other compatible species.

    Female bettas are generally regarded as less aggressive than males, although most fishkeepers choose males for their brighter colors and longer fins. You can learn much more about female bettas from my complete female betta care guide.

    Betta fish live in shallow, freshwater habitats and have evolved to breathe air from the surface for survival1. Their hardy nature means they can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons, although they require a filter and regular tank maintenance to provide good water quality. Bettas are tropical fish so they also need heated water to stay active and healthy.

    Betta-in-Planted-Aquarium

    Check out my guide to 15 betta fish tank mates (and four to avoid) for advice on some great freshwater fish that can share a tank with a Siamese fighter!

    Facts and Figures

    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Fish family: Osphronemidae
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Temperature: Upper 70s to mid 80s Fahrenheit
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.5
    • Hardness: Soft

    Angelfish in a Nutshell

    Angelfish are medium-sized South American fish from the cichlid family. These popular fish come in various color forms, but each breed has that characteristic combination of long dorsal and anal fins.

    Freshwater-Angelfish

    These fins make the angelfish very ‘tall’, so it’s best to keep these freshwater fish in an aquarium with high sides. In terms of size, these fish can reach over 6 inches in length and an impressive 10 inches in height, so a single fish will need a tank of at least 20 gallons, with 55 gallons being better for larger adults.

    While angelfish are relatively peaceful, they are cichlids, and they aren’t always complete angels! These fish are typically classified as semi-aggressive but they can be pretty aggressive when they’re paired up and start breeding.

    Freshwater angelfish are omnivores, and they have a pretty small mouth. However, they will eat nano fish small enough to swallow.

    Looking for some great ideas for angelfish tank mates? Check out my guide to 15 freshwater species that get along with angelfish!

    Facts and Figures:

    • Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Fish family: Cichlid family
    • Origin: Amazon river basin in South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Temperature: Upper 70s to lower 80s Fahrenheit
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8
    • Hardness: Soft

    How To Keep the Peace

    If you already have angelfish and betta fish in the same tank, there are some things you can do to decrease the chance of aggression. Again, there are no guarantees, but a combination of these techniques might help prevent war in your aquarium.

    Go Big

    A lot of compatibility problems are caused by keeping fish in small tanks. When it comes to angelfish and betta fish, your chance of success rises as you get into that 55+ gallon range, but remember, these fish are still not recommended as tank mates. You have safer bets in 6 or 8 foot long tanks, but at that size your Betta will get lost in the visual of the display tank.

    Get the Parameters Right

    Fortunately, bettas and angelfish thrive in similar conditions. Aim for a water temperature in the upper 70s Fahrenheit and a neutral pH around 7 to keep both fish happy. Both angelfish and betta fish prefer water with a low flow, so use an appropriate filter.

    Start With Young Fish

    Young angelfish do not have the same territorial and aggressive drive as breeding adults, so they’re often safer to keep together with bettas. Letting your fish grow up together might also help prevent aggression down the line, but you can still expect some dominance battles as they grow and reach maturity.

    Female Bettas and Single Angelfish

    Female-Betta

    Female bettas are generally less aggressive than males, and their shorter fins are less prone to damage. Paired angelfish can be more aggressive than single specimens, so a combination of one or more female bettas and a single angelfish might work the best, especially when combined with some of the other tips mentioned here.

    Monitor Regularly

    You should check in on aquarium fish every day, but risky combinations like betta fish and angelfish should be observed frequently, especially in the weeks after they are introduced. A community tank with betta fish and angelfish should be positioned somewhere you can monitor it throughout the day.

    Watch out for any signs of aggression so that you can take action before serious injury can happen. Aggression often takes place during feeding times, so be especially alert when your fish are eating.

    Feeding Your Fish

    Adding food to different parts of the tank at the same time can reduce competition and conflict, but you should also be aware that bettas and angelfish have slightly different diets.

    Betta fish are mostly carnivorous and will thrive on a diet of prepared dried food and live/frozen foods. Angelfish are more omnivorous so they need a prepared food suitable for their needs.

    Live Plants

    Live plants are beautiful to look at, fun to grow, and great for the health of your fish. They’re also perfect for breaking up the line of sight in the tank. This means fish are not always visible to each other, which reduces aggression. Large plants also provide hiding places where fish can escape if they feel threatened or are under attack.

    Choose large plants like Amazon swords, vallisneria, and large Java ferns that will grow up into the water column, but don’t be afraid to add a few smaller species and floating plants to make your aquarium an even more natural environment.

    You can also use artificial plants, but avoid firm plastic decorations that can cut and damage your betta fish fins. Live plants are always better for bettas!

    Caves And Structure

    The hardscape in your tank can also play an important role in breaking up line of sight and creating hiding spots. Rocks, driftwood, cave ornaments, and other decorations provide places where fish can set up territories or hide from dominant tank mates.

    Choose fish-safe ornaments that are made for aquariums to avoid introducing any chemicals into your tank. You should also check for any sharp edges that can tear your fish’s fins.

    Dither Fish

    Sometimes, the best way to avoid aggressive behaviors is to add more fish. Dither fish are active species that create movement and make it difficult for an aggressive fish to single out a victim. The best options are active schooling fish that swim at various levels in the tank.

    Busy bottom dwellers like cory catfish, or fast, active fish like rainbowfish make good dither fish, but it’s important to choose other fish that enjoy the same parameters as angelfish and bettas. Avoid nano dither fish that are small enough for angelfish to swallow. You can also try medium sized social fish like molly fish.

    Plan B – What To Do When War Breaks Out

    If it doesn’t work out between your angelfish and betta, you’re going to have an animal welfare issue on your hands, and the best thing to do is separate your fish or find a new home for one of them.

    You may already have a spare tank that you use for quarantining or treating sick fish, but if not, it’s always a good idea to have an emergency option. You could even use a bucket or something similar as a (very) temporary solution, just make sure the container has not been used to hold any toxic chemicals.

    Once your fish are separated, it’s time to come up with a long-term solution. Continue reading to learn about three possible options.

    Try A Tank Separator

    Installing a tank divider will allow you to keep these two species in one aquarium without any drama, but it does limit the swimming space for both fish and all the other species in the tank. Fish tank dividers are available for sale, or you can make your own to save some money for your next tank.

    Budget Option
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    With your fish separated in a single tank, you can start creating hiding spaces, adding more structure to break up their line of sight, and introducing live aquarium plants and dither fish.

    If your fish still don’t get along after making some changes in the tank, you’re going to want to try one of these next options for a long-term solution.

    Start A New Aquarium

    Angelfish need much larger tanks than bettas, but you can create a great new home for a single betta fish in a tank as small as 5 gallons. This is usually the easiest and most cost-effective option, but it will limit your options for adding other species.

    Male bettas are happy to live in their own tanks, but you’ll want to step up to a ten-gallon or larger if you plan on giving him some tank mates. Female betta fish can also be kept in their own tank, or you can keep a sorority of females in a larger aquarium.

    There are great betta tank kits available, but you can also put your own tank together. Just don’t forget the heater and filter!

    Starting a new tank is easier when you already have a cycled aquarium because you can seed your new filter with beneficial bacteria from the old tank to give the nitrogen cycle a jump start. However, you’ll still need to monitor your water parameters regularly, so keep that water test kit handy.

    Check out my guide to fish-in cycling to make the transition as smooth as possible!

    Rehoming

    If your new angelfish isn’t getting along with your betta (or vice versa), and you don’t have the space for another aquarium, you might be able to return the fish to your local fish store. Call ahead and speak to someone at the store before taking your fish on another road trip.

    Depending on their policy, you might not get a refund, but that’s still better than letting your fish get hurt. If the store has a no-return policy, you might want to ask any other fish keeping friends if they have space for a new fish or even put your pet up for sale to a good home.

    Final Thoughts

    So now you know why keeping angelfish and bettas together is a bad idea. Hopefully, you’ve also picked up some useful tips on how to keep the peace if you find yourself housing both species in the same tank.

    While some fishkeepers have managed to keep these fish together successfully, I do not recommend trying it yourself. Rather check out my guides to angelfish tank mates and betta fish tank mates for some much safer options!

  • Fish Tank Ideas – 30+ Inspiring Tanks

    Fish Tank Ideas – 30+ Inspiring Tanks

    Are you planning a new aquarium? Choosing a design and layout is super fun, but it can also be pretty intimidating if you’ve never done it before. In this post, I’ll show you some excellent fish tank ideas from across the web and share some hints to give you some fish tank inspiration!

    Let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Designing an aquarium is a great chance to let your creativity run wild and create something truly unique. However, drawing some inspiration from other setups can be very helpful.
    • Aquarium decorations are a great way to add some style and personality to your aquarium, but live plants and natural materials like wood are the best choice for nature-style fish tanks.
    • Stick to hardscape and decorations designed specifically for aquariums. Natural decorations like rocks can be used if you clean them carefully, but some natural materials like sea shells and limestone can change your water chemistry.
    • Be sure to include a filtration system if you’re creating a shrimp or fish tank, and a heater if you’re keeping tropical species.
    • Don’t be afraid to think out of the box! Paludariums and emersed planted tanks are excellent aquarium ideas.

    Nano Fish Tank Ideas

    In the aquarium hobby, small aquariums are usually referred to as nano tanks. How small is small? Well, the definition varies, but you can call anything smaller than about 20 gallons a nano tank.

    There are many different nano tank styles, ranging from species-only setups to thriving communities. Continue reading for some nano tank inspiration!

    10-gallon Nano Betta Fish Tank Idea

    Betta fish are one of the most popular nano fish in the hobby, but we see them in tiny bowls and other containers way too often. This beautiful 10-gallon nano betta fish tank deserves a round of applause1!

    The combination of live aquatic plants, driftwood, hardscape, and a little beach area gives this tank a feeling of balance and tranquility. I bet that’s one happy betta.

    5-Gallon Betta Setup

    You can also go a little smaller for a single betta, although you’ll still need a filtration system and a heater. Maintaining high water quality will also become more challenging, but regular water changes and cleaning will keep your fish happy and healthy.

    At 5 gallons, this well-planned fish tank is about the smallest you should go for bettas or other live fish. However, you can make a nano tank look much roomier than it really is by decorating it carefully.

    Notice how the dark substrate makes the plants stand out even more? Black sand or gravel can also make fish look brighter and it’s great for some shy fish species that prefer a dark habitat.

    Community Aquarium

    It is possible to keep multiple nano fish species together in a small tank, but you’ll need to step up to an aquarium in the 15 to 20-gallon range to house your fish safely.

    This elegant tank is home to multiple fish species and some beautiful aquatic plants. Most fish that grow to about 2.5 inches or less can be kept in this tank size, although it’s important to research the minimum school size and parameters of each species.

    Themed

    There are some awesome aquarium decorations out there for setting up a themed fish tank. Check out these fun but contrasting examples from across the web!

    Spongebob

    Spongebob-themed aquarium decorations can turn a nano tank into a fun and exciting fish tank, especially for the kids. This themed aquarium looks just like a scene from the popular TV show, and those yellow fish fit right in!

    Bamboo Forest

    Looking for something a little more zen? Check out this peaceful betta tank, complete with its own bamboo forest. This fish tank theme is perfect for your work desk, especially if you have a stressful job.

    Planted Aquariums

    If you ask me, all freshwater aquariums should include some live plants! Live plants have many benefits for your fish, and they look great too! Let’s take a look at some amazing planted tank eye candy.

    Submerged Bonsai

    Plants dominate this incredible aquascape, although its creator has chosen to create a scene that looks more like a dry landscape than an underwater scene!

    It would take many years to grow an actual bonsai that looks this good, but by cleverly planting a small plant like Anubias barteri var. nana on a great piece of driftwood, you can achieve much faster results.

    The addition of carpet plants and that inviting clearing under the ‘tree’ make this peaceful scene really aesthetic. Can you picture a few shrimp or a betta hanging out under the shade of those branches?

    Dutch Style

    This amazing Dutch style planted fish tank ticks all the right boxes for aquarists who like a lot of color! This orderly aquascaping style requires dedication and a real eye for design, but the results are incredible.

    The rimless tank and open-top design add another dimension of viewing pleasure to this tank. Sometimes, plants look the best when viewed from above!

    Dutch-style planted tanks are all about the plants, but that doesn’t mean you can’t add some movement. The vertical bars on those angelfish really complement this tank!

    Emersed Growth

    There’s something special about a planted tank with emerging plants. This stunning aquarium is a true underwater paradise, complete with lush vegetation growing out of the water, just as it does in nature.

    Many common aquarium plants, including Ludwigia and Rotala, can be grown emersed in a hoodless tank with suspended lighting.

    Fish safety is an important consideration when planning an open-top fish tank. Fish are surprisingly good at jumping out of tanks, so it’s a good idea to cover the top with some kind of screen.

    Paludariums

    Giving your plants the freedom to grow up and out of the water creates a unique look, but you can go even further and create a truly amphibious tank. Paludariums, like this exquisite example, include an underwater section and a land section.

    Depending on the size and design of your paludarium, you could house aquatic life like fish, shrimp like red cherry shrimp, or dwarf frogs in the water. The land section is great for frogs, and turtles that like to spend time in and out of the water.

    The land section of your paludarium could take the form of an island that sticks out of the water in the center, or you could add a simple shelf, complete with some rocks, soil, and plants.

    The Living Wall

    A planted wall is another spectacular design, although this limits some of the animals you can keep. This example provides some swimming space for shrimp or nano fish, and plenty of planting space for those awesome tropical plants.

    African Cichlids

    African cichlid tanks are the ultimate choice for freshwater aquarists who want a large tank that bursts with color and movement. Although you can grow some plants in African cichlid tanks, these setups are usually all about the fish.

    Rock Pile

    Some fishkeepers house African cichlids in pretty open, bare-bottom fish tanks, but if you ask me, these fish look so much better with some dramatic rocky hardscape!

    This tank creates wonderful cichlid habitats and makes a bold statement as a display tank. The white sand contrasts with the round rocks to make this simple but effective tank really pop.

    Just make sure you secure round rocks properly if you set up a tank like this, they could easily injure your fish or crack your tank if they come tumbling down.

    Rock Walls

    When we talk about aquarium hardscape, most people think of arranging and stacking rocks or driftwood on the bottom of the fish tank. However, the back and side walls can be used to create an amazing effect.

    You could simply use a life-like stick-on aquarium background, or go this route and create something with real texture!

    Angelfish

    Angelfish are stunning freshwater cichlids that come from South America. These distinctive fish have a very ‘tall’ body shape, so they need a tank with some real height.

    These fish thrive in planted tanks and can be housed with many other peaceful community fish in a big enough aquarium – just avoid tiny tank mates that your angels might see as a tasty snack.

    Altum Angel Aquarium

    This gorgeous designer fish tank is home to a big group of Altum angelfish, a large species native to the Rio Negro and Orinoco rivers in South America. The dramatic driftwood contrasts against a backlit background to make an aquarium that no one is walking by without stopping to stare!

    Aquascapes

    Most aquascapes include live plants, but you can also create a stunning scene by arranging hardscape features like rocks and driftwood. Let’s take a look at some interesting aquascapes.

    Forest Scapes

    This inspiring aquascape looks just like a forest scene from the great outdoors, complete with mountains! This kind of project takes real dedication and a lot of experience, but the results are absolutely amazing.

    Iwagumi

    This iwagumi masterpiece by George Farmer highlights the simple beauty of this unique aquascape design. Each rock is carefully arranged in the frame to create a simplistic yet bold look, and the dense carpet of plants only adds to its appeal.

    This type of fish tank looks best with a small group of schooling fish like neon tetras, which create the effect of a flock of birds flying over the aquascape.

    The Nature Aquarium

    This jaw-dropping tank is a prime example of a nature aquarium. The style was popularized by the legendary Takashi Amano, a pioneering aquascaper from Japan. The style aims to create a unique natural world, rather than recreating a scene directly from nature.

    A variety of different plant types are used in this style, but hardscape features like rocks, roots, and driftwood are equally important in creating different zones and textures in the tank.

    Glofish Tanks

    Have you ever heard of Glofish? These neon-colored fish were originally genetically modified to identify toxins in water, but today they are very popular in the aquarium hobby for their vibrant colors.

    Neon Glow

    Glofish come in exotic colors like sunburst orange, electric green, and galactic purple, and they include popular species like corydoras catfish, tetras, danios, and rainbow sharks. These fish really stand out under blue LED lighting, and so do the special glofish gravels, aquarium decorations, and artificial plants.

    Nano Glofish Setup

    Glofish tanks are a perfect idea for the kid’s room or anyone who loves bright colors! This low-maintenance example shows off the amazing colors you can achieve with the right lighting and some cool glofish tetras.

    Goldfish

    The goldfish is another freshwater species that looks nothing like their wild ancestors. Hundreds of years of selective breeding have created the amazing variety of fancy goldfish breeds we know today.

    Some people still think goldfish can live in little fish bowls, but these fish actually grow surprisingly large, so they need a fish tank of at least 30 gallons for long-term care.

    Keeping goldfish is all about the fish. These adorable underwater pets have a long lifespan, and it’s really rewarding to watch them grow and thrive in a healthy fish tank.

    The Minimalist

    Many aquarists choose to keep their goldfish in open, minimalist tanks like this setup because they are easy to clean and place all the attention on the tank inhabitants. The addition of that long airstone adds another layer of interest to this fish tank while increasing oxygen levels in the water.

    Eastern Elegance

    This 60-gallon goldfish aquarium still has a low-maintenance design but includes a little more structure, including some great aquarium decorations that reflect the goldfish’s east Asian origins.

    60 gallons is a great size for two or three fancy goldfish, and you could even consider some goldfish tank mates in a tank of this size.

    Check out my guide to 11 goldfish tank mates for some great goldfish companions!

    Nature Style Goldfish Aquarium

    Unfortunately, goldfish love to snack on most plants, but that doesn’t mean you can’t create a natural home for your fishy friends. Some attractive river stones and soft artificial plants or tough live plants like Java fern and Anubias look great in a goldfish tank.

    Big Tank Inspirations

    Most of us can only dream of the kinds of tanks in this next section. Oh well, it doesn’t mean we can’t drool over them! Keep reading to learn about some amazing aquariums from across the world.

    Outdoor Koi Pond with Glass Front

    Don’t have space in your home for a big fish tank? These fish-lovers went ahead and designed a Koi tank/pond hybrid, which combines the best of both worlds!

    Large koi are traditionally viewed from above, but this stylish setup allows you to enjoy your fish from every angle.

    Kanye West’s Bathtub Aquarium

    Stepping back inside, Kanye West’s super-stylish bath-tub tank is a great example of creative aquariums.

    This tank helps you feel like you’re swimming in nature, every time you take a bath. The tank is filled with some awesome fancy goldfish.

    The Mirage

    Now, if money or space isn’t a problem, you might want to go with an aquarium like this beauty from the Mirage in Las Vegas. This mega 20,000-gallon fish tank is home to over 80 species of saltwater fish from tropical waters across the globe.

    Atlantis The Palm

    Some hotels go one step further, and let their guests view their amazing aquariums from within their suites! The Lost Chambers Aquarium in Atlantis Dubai allows viewers to enjoy sightings of over 60,000 ocean animals in the Ambassador Lagoon, all from their own suite!

    Final Thoughts

    So there you have it, 25 fantastic fish tank ideas that you can use to design your next aquarium. You could choose a nano-themed aquarium filled with cool decorations, an aesthetic nature aquascape full of aquatic life, or splash out on an impressive celebrity-style installation – the choice is yours!

    Which of these 25 fish tank styles do you like the most? Share your view in the comments below!

  • 15 Fish That Look Like Snakes

    15 Fish That Look Like Snakes

    Are you an aquarium keeper who likes snakes more than fish in your aquarium? Fret not. There are many aquarists who love snakes and other reptiles. However, some prefer to keep fish that look like snakes.

    In this article, I will list 15 amazing and popular aquarium fish species that look like snakes. Really!

    So, keep reading!

    Key Takeaways

    • Most snake like fish species are eel shaped fish that are found in both; freshwater habitats and saltwater habitats.
    • Most species of snake looking fish including Zebra moray and Snakeheads are medium to large sized fish and are agggressive
    • There are smaller peaceful fish like the Kuhli Loach that work in community thank

    15 Fish That Look Like Snakes

    Here’s a list of 15 amazing fish that look like snakes. Give it a read and decide on an adorable pet for your aquarium now.

    1. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy 
    • Temperament: Peaceful and sociable 
    • Adult Size: 3 to 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: At least 20 gallons for 3 to 5 individuals 
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75°F to 82°F

    The reason why I put Kuhli Loaches in the first place is because their slender body looks exactly like a snake. Despite their body shape, their behavior tends to be like a snake because they are nocturnal, active, and super sneaky creatures.

    Kuhli Loaches are beginner friendly fish species that are hardy and easy to keep in a freshwater fish aquarium. Therefore, if you’re new to aquarium hobby, you should definitely pet these amazing creatures. 

    Make sure to add lots of hiding places and sandy, soft substrate to make them feel at home!

    2. Rope Fish

    • Scientific Name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Peaceful and sociable 
    • Adult Size: 2 feet 
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Origin: West & Central Africa
    • Temperature: 73° to 82°F

    The Rope fish, commonly known as the Reedfish or snake fish, looks like a combo of fish, eel, and snake. Like a snake, the Rope fish can live inside and outside of water because it possesses lungs. Like eels and snails, they have long cylindrical bodies with dorsal finlets that resemble a rope. 

    They get large reaching around 20 inches with a maximum size of around 36 inches. Therefore, you need a large size tank mainly because of their nocturnal leaping activities. 

    3. Fire Eel

    Fire-Eel
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus Erythrotaenia
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive 
    • Adult Size: 20 to 40 inches 
    • Minimum Tank Size:
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 24-28℃

    Contrary to its name, the Fire eel is not a true eel. They are one of the most common freshwater fish species with protruding snouts as eels. Mostly, they gain their popularity because of their unique color and big size, reaching around 40 inches in length.

    Like a snake, they have those creepy sneaky vibes with no abdominal fins on their long cylindrical bodies with dark brown or gray color. 

    Though they rarely bite, Fire eels are particularly dangerous because of their spines and toxins. Therefore, proper caution and care are essential, especially with kids.

    4. Snakeskin Discus

    Snakeskin-Discus
    • Scientific Name: Symphysodon spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 6 to 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivores
    • Origin: South America 
    • Temperature: 82-88°F

    A gift of selective breeding, the Snakeskin discus looks nothing like a snake. However, their spotted appearance with thin striations and intricate scale patterns resembles the skin of snakes. Hence, the name.

    With a beautiful and eye catching appearance and a peaceful nature, the coloration varies with Snakeskin Discus—red, brown, and blue, which all are phenomenal looking. Therefore, Snakeskin Discus makes a fitting choice for many aquarium enthusiasts. 

    However, they have special requirements to meet for their happy and healthy survival. Thus, maintaining the water quality and temperature is essential. Check out my discus guide for more tips on how to properly keep them.

    5. Tire Track Eel

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus Favus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 28 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 80 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Origin: Riverine fauna of India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.
    • Temperature: 72-82°F

    Long cylindrical bodies, irregular dark brown patterns, and zig zag markings with snout-like faces with no pelvic fins make the Tire Track Eel a fitting match for a snake. 

    Also known as the ZigZag Eel or Reticulated Spiny Eel, they are a popular freshwater aquarium fish with shy and timid personalities. Mostly active during the night time, the Tire Track Eels are usually found burrowing in the substrate and other decors. 

    Therefore, choosing a sandy and soft substrate with lots of tank decors, such as large pieces of driftwood, smooth rock caves, PVC pipes, and plant thickets, are essential to keep them happy and healthy. 

    6. Snakeskin Barb

    • Scientific Name: Puntius rhomboocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 60-gallon tank
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Borneo, Indonesia
    • Temperature: 73 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit

    At first glance, you will not relate Snakeskin barb to snakes. However, upon careful observation, you’ll notice that Snakeskin Barbs have Python like markings all over their bodies that earn the name. 

    The Snakeskin barbs are barb fish that are relatively small fish and thrive in a group of 6 to 8 fish species. 

    They are an ideal choice for experienced aquarists who appreciate some mid and upper level activities in their freshwater fish aquarium.

    7. Northern Snakehead fish

    • Scientific Name: Channa Argus
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult
    • Temperament: Aggressive, predatory 
    • Adult Size: 40″ long
    • Minimum Tank Size: 500 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores 
    • Origin: China, Southern Siberia, and North Korea
    • Temperature: 41 to 60° F

    Northern snakehead fish is named after the snake like head shape that hunts in packs. Northern snake eels are one of the largest freshwater habitats that are usually found in cool waters and can endure massive temperature changes ranging from 32° to 85°F, which is insane1.

    However, they are legally banned in the United States, Europe, and Australia, so you need a special permit to own one in your home aquarium. 

    8. Senegalus Eel 

    Bichir
    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive 
    • Adult Size: 20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Egypt, Kenya, Nigeria, and Senegal
    • Temperature: 75-82° F

    If you’re someone who’s obsessed with snakes and dinosaurs, you should definitely check out the Senegalus Eel, also commonly known as the Dinosaur Bichir.

    Dinosaur Bichirs are large sized fish that require a tank size of a minimum 90 gallons. However, if your Senegalus Eel is a juvenile, you can keep it in a 40 gallon tank and upgrade later. However, make sure to provide them with optimal water conditions and a varied diet that compliments their active nature. 

    9. Cobra Guppy 

    Cobra Guppies
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful and easy going 
    • Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Temperature: 70°F to 81°F

    When it comes to exotic freshwater fish, cobra guppies are one of the fanciest and most beautiful exotic fish you’ll ever find. The coloration varies from Red to yellow, blue, white, black, Albino and blue, and Gold—Each one is beautiful in its own unique way. 

    These guppy fish get their name because of their distinctive body markings that resemble the hood of a cobra. Since they are hardy fish that are also active swimmers, they are excellent for beginner aquarists as long as you provide them with a well maintained aquarium with a good oxygen supply and water quality. 

    10. Pipefish

    Pipefish
    • Scientific Name: Syngnathinae
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult 
    • Temperament: Depends on species 
    • Adult Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 Gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Atlantic and Pacific Oceans
    • Temperature: 72.0 to 77.0° F
    • Reef Safe: Depends on species
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Pipefish look more like seahorses than snakes with an extraordinary ability to camouflage in the background of their environment. 

    The long snouts and bony rings around their bodies make them unique looking fish that change color to blend in with their surroundings. 

    Though, smaller in size than other average marine creatures, Pipe fishes are difficult to keep and require an experienced aquarist’s skills for a better life. Therefore, if you’re a beginner, Pipe fish are not recommended.

    11. Moray Eel 

    Morary Eel In Tank
    • Scientific Name: Gymnothorax kidako
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Large, aggressive, predatory
    • Adult Size: 39.4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 160 Gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Western Central Pacific
    • Temperature: 66.0 to 78.0° F
    • Reef Safe: With caution (Requires specialized filtration and lighting equipment)
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Many people believe that eels are just sea snakes with gills. However, true aquarists know that eels are basically snake shaped fish that are a rare beauty in the aquarium hobby, just like the Moray eel.

    Frankly speaking—the Moray eel just looks like a cross between a snake and an eel with no pectoral fins or pelvic fins. Also, there are small holes in the elongated gill openings but they don’t possess any bony plate covers like most fish. They possess a continuous dorsal fin and anal fin but no scales. 

    However, if you’re willing to keep a Moray eel, make sure to provide plenty of space. They get large and are aggressive. They are a better fit for experienced hobbyists.

    12. Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus bichir
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2.5 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores 
    • Origin: Northeast Africa
    • Temperature: 74°F to 82°F

    Bichirs are one of the most fantastic fish that are ancient and add a very sophisticated appeal to your tank. 

    In fact, it is one of my favorite larger sized fish that looks like a snake. 

    Granted, they come from shallow water, their eyesight is terrible and they have to rely on other senses to navigate properly and find food. 

    One of the most interesting features of Bichirs is the presence of lungs that allow them to come to the water’s surface to get oxygen. While easy to keep, Bichirs are very hard to breed.

    13. Banded Snake Eel (Ophichthidae)

    • Scientific Name: Myrichthys colubrinus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Somewhat aggressive
    • Adult Size: 4 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150+ gallons tank
    • Diet: Small fishes, crabs and shrimps
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Temperature: 82 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Snake eels stay true to their name by the way they burrow very fast with the tips of their tails just like a snake. As nocturnal as they are, they remain hidden during the day in the soft substrate and come out at night to hunt. 

    Maintenance wise, they are easy to keep and feed. Just provide them with optimal normal saltwater fish parameters including pH, saliny, temperature, and water movement, and they are good to go!

    14. Snakeskin Gourami

    Snakeskin Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 9.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 35 Gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore 
    • Origin: Asia
    • Temperature: 72.0 to 86.0° F

    The Snakeskin Gourami might not be the most common freshwater fish as other fish in the Gourami family, but the scales and patterns on their bodies bear a striking resemblance to that of a snake. 

    In their native land, they are sought after as a good food fish and cultivated for purpose. However, in the aquarium hobby, they are one of the more peaceful gourami fish that are hardy and easy to breed. Hence, perfect for beginner aquarists. 

    15. Orangethroat Pikeblenny

    • Scientific Name: Chaenopsis alepidota
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons tank
    • Diet: Small fish, crustaceans
    • Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 82.4 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The Orangethorat Pikeblenny is one of the hardiest saltwater fish that looks like and is found in coastal shallows.

    In the aquarium hobby, they are hardy fish species that should be kept with other peaceful tank mates with lots and lots of hiding places.

    However, make sure to house only one Pikeblenny in an aquarium. They will fight amongst members of their own species.

    Fun Fact: An Orangethroat PikeBlenny (Chaenopsis alepidota), displays its colors to attract a mate.

    FAQS

    What kind of fish looks like a snake?

    Some freshwater and saltwater fish that look like a snake are Moray eels, Orangethorat Pikeblenny, Snake eels, Northern pike, Dragon goby, Zebra moray, and Bichirs with elongated body. 

    What is a long, thin fish that looks like a snake?

    Most eel shaped fish have long, laterally compressed body that looks like a snake. 

    What is a saltwater snake like fish?

    Ophichthidae or Banded snake eels are saltwater snake like fish. Moray eels are another example and are readily available at specialized fish stores.

    What is the black fish that looks like a snake?

    Snakehead fish are black head fish that look like a snake. 

    Final Thoughts

    Snakes are sneaky little creatures that are curious and confident. No wonder why many people insist on keeping snakes as pets. 

    If you’re a seasoned aquarist who loves snakes but cannot keep them as pets, you can definitely go for any snake like fish from the list above and have fun with them!

  • Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – Here’s 21

    Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – Here’s 21

    Some fish are colorful, some fish are cute, and some fish look like dragons! In this post, we’ll be introducing 21 weird and wonderful fish, from little dragons just an inch or two long to massive sea monsters as long as a school bus!

    Read along to learn about some great fresh and saltwater dragon fish that you can keep in an aquarium, and some that are better left out in their natural habitat.

    Let’s get into it!

    Key Takeaways

    • Many fish species have sharp teeth, spiny fins, and beard-like growths that make them look just like dragons.
    • Some popular aquarium fish like bettas and guppies have been selectively bred to look more like dragon fish, but their care is much the same as other breeds.
    • Most of the species in this post are available in the aquarium hobby, so you can keep your very own dragon fish at home.
    • Some dragon fish, like the deep sea angler fish and giant oarfish, live in very specialized habitats or grow very large, so you won’t find them at your local fish store

    Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – 21 Species

    Are you ready to meet 21 amazing dragon fish? This list includes freshwater species like the prehistoric bichirs, brackish fish like the eel gobies, and saltwater species like the leafy seadragon.

    Many of these fish can be kept in a home aquarium, but some of them are better left to the experts. So, if you are looking for your very own dragon fish pet, be sure to check out the suggested temperatures, tank sizes, and care levels for each species to help you choose the right species.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Arowana

    • Scientific Name: Osteoglossum and Scleropages spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 4 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats insects and small fish
    • Origin: Australia, Asia, and South America
    • Temperature: 75 – 82 °F

    Arowanas are amazing freshwater fish with dragon-like scales and a huge mouth. In fact, the endangered Asian Arowana (Scleropages formosus) is even known as the ‘dragon fish’ due to its unique appearance.

    There are several species of these large freshwater fish distributed from South America to Australia, and they can make impressive pets. However, these monster fish need a very large tank and the experience of a dedicated fishkeeper for long-term care.

    2. Axolotl

    Axolotl in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Usually 9-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats invertebrates and small fish
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Temperature: 59 – 73 °F

    The axolotl is a bizarre-looking critter that makes a wonderful aquarium pet. These dragon-like amphibians are not true fish, although they spend their entire lives under the water!

    Axolotls are critically endangered in the wild due to the destruction of their native habitat in Mexico, but fortunately, these interesting animals are still common in captivity. They require cool water conditions and a healthy diet of live or frozen foods like brine shrimp and earthworms.

    3. Bettas

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Difficulty Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 76 – 81°F

    Bettas, or Siamese fighting fish, are popular all over the world for their beauty and feisty personalities. These small fresh water fish make great pets, especially for fishkeepers who don’t have room for a big tank.

    All bettas have a dramatic appearance, with bright colors and large flowing fins, but one breed stands out for its dragon-like appearance. Dragon scale bettas have extra large, metallic scales. Their body color is usually pearly white, and many specimens have fiery red fins.

    Betta fish are easy to care for if you provide a tank of at least 5 gallons, complete with a filter and heater. Avoid overfeeding and test your water regularly to monitor nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia levels to prevent common illnesses like fin rot or ich.

    4. Purple Dragon Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 72 – 82 °F

    Guppies are another world-famous fish that are sometimes associated with dragons. The purple dragon guppy is an awesome fancy guppy breed, with eye-catching colors and patterns. Males are smaller and more boldly marked, but even female dragon guppies have great patterning on their tails and dorsal fins.

    They may be a fancy breed, but purple dragon guppies are very easy to care for. These fun tropical fish are very easy to breed in a freshwater aquarium, which is a great hobby for everyone from beginners to advanced aquarists!

    5. Dragon Eye Goldfish

    Black-moor-goldfish in aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons +
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feeds on invertebrates and plants
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 65 – 72 °F

    Dragon eye goldfish are a strange but beautiful goldfish breed with bulging telescope eyes. These fancy goldfish have ancient origins in China, where the breed was first developed over 300 years ago!

    The popular black moor goldfish is a variation of the dragon eye that is popular all over the world, and readily available online or from aquarium stores. These adorable fish should be kept in a large aquarium with cool water and a gentle current. With good care, they can live for over 20 years.

    6. Senegal Bichir

    Senegal Bichir
    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Africa
    • Temperature: 75 – 82 °F

    The Senegal bichir is a prehistoric-looking fish from Africa, that is often called the dragon fish. These fish look almost like a cross between a dinosaur and an eel, so they make a really cool display animal for a big enough fish tank.

    Despite their strange looks, these fish are not particularly aggressive, although they will swallow any small fish that swims in reach of their large mouths! Large and medium-sized fish with peaceful personalities make the best tank mates for these interesting fish.

    These strange creatures are one of the few fish that can breathe air from the surface and can even walk across land. Check out my guide to 15 fish with legs to learn much more about walking fish!

    7. Dragonface Pipefish

    Dragon-Face-Pipefish
    • Scientific Name: Corythoichthys sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Copepods
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The Dragonface pipefish is a unique, eel-like fish from the seahorse family that hangs out on the floor of tropical reefs, waiting for small copepods to snack on. These unique fish have very dragon-like faces, complete with big eyes and a long snout.

    Dragonface pipe fish are popular in the reef aquarium hobby, although they have a specialized diet and are difficult to maintain if you don’t have a steady supply of live copepods to feed them. These tiny crustaceans are available from specialist aquarium stores, but you still need to make sure the other fish don’t eat all the food!

    8. Dragon Goby/ Violet Goby

    Dragon-Goby
    • Scientific Name: Gobioides broussonetii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful but territorial with their own kind
    • Adult Size: Can reach over 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons +
    • Diet: Filter-feeder
    • Origin: Southern USA to South and Central America
    • Temperature: 73 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Brackish water fish, not recommended for reef tanks
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The dragon goby is a mean-looking fish with upward-facing eyes, a strong jaw, and a row of spiky fins along its back, just like a dragon. Also known as violet gobies, these bottom dwellers are most at home in brackish waters, although they are sometimes found in fresh and saltwater habitats.

    Dragon gobies can be kept in brackish water aquariums, although they prefer a thick layer of soft sand to burrow in and they are not the most exciting pets. They look very similar to Peruvian gobies and are often sold under the same name. Both of these eel gobies may look aggressive, but they actually eat algae and other small food particles, so they are safe to keep with smaller fish.

    9. Dragon Moray Eel

    Dragon-Moray-Eel
    • Scientific Name: Enchelycore pardalis
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 – 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats other fish and sea creatures
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Does not eat corals, but will eat smaller fish
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The dragon moray is a colorful tropical reef creature that looks like a dragon. These snake-like fish manage to look beautiful and scary at the same time, making them an awesome choice for a large tropical marine aquarium. However, keep in mind they are difficult to keep. You could opt for a standard moray eel which are more hardy, though aggressive.

    10. Seadragons

    Sea-Dragon
    • Scientific Name: Phycodurus & Phyllopteryx spp.
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats small marine invertebrates
    • Size: 9 – 18 inches
    • Origin: Southern Australia
    • Available in the hobby: Very rare

    Seadragons are unique and delicate saltwater fish from the seahorse family. The leafy seadragon is a true master of camouflage that looks just like a drifting clump of seaweed as it forages near the sea floor. Weedy sea dragons are more colorful creatures with interesting paddle-shaped fins. Despite their different body shapes, each species has an undeniably dragon-like face!

    Sea dragons are usually only kept in large public aquariums because they are rare and require specialized care.

    11. Lionfish

    Lionfish
    • Scientific Name: Pterois spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 18 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 – 125 gallons, depending on the species
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Tropical regions of the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Possible, but will consume smaller fish and invertebrates
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    There are several similar species of lionfish distributed in tropical waters across the globe, each with beard-like growths and huge spiky fins like a dragon’s wings.

    These striking fish are usually red and white in color and are also known as firefish. Lionfish are popular aquarium pets, although they are venomous, so they should never be handled.

    12. Pacific Blackdragon

    • Scientific Name: Idiacanthus antrostomus
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Size: 2 feet
    • Origin: West Coast of North America
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The Pacific Black Dragon is a deepsea fish that lives several thousand feet below the surface in the cold, dark waters of the Eastern Pacific. These sea monsters have a mouth full of sharp fangs and a beard-like growth under their jaws that gives them a real dragon-like look!

    13. Blue Sea Dragon

    Blue-Sea-Dragon
    • Scientific Name: Glaucus atlanticus
    • Diet: Carnivore that feeds on jellyfish and other venomous sea creatures
    • Size: about 1 inch
    • Origin: Recorded off Africa, Europe, Asia, Australia, North and South America
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The blue sea dragon is a stunning sea animal that lives at the surface of the ocean in many parts of the world. These bright blue creatures are not actually fish but rather a type of carnivorous mollusk.

    Unfortunately, these sea slugs cannot be kept in a home aquarium, but they are sometimes found washed up on beaches. If you do spot a blue sea dragon, don’t be tempted to touch it; these animals give a painful sting!

    14. Dragonets

    Healthy Mandarin Goby
    • Scientific Name: Synchiropus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: usually about 3 inches, but some species grow up to 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on copepods and other live invertebrates
    • Origin: Indo-pacific
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Dragonets are small tropical reef fish with dazzling colors. Several species of these goby-like fish are available in the hobby, although they are best left to experienced and dedicated reef keepers who can provide a steady supply of live copepods.

    15. Giant Oarfish

    • Scientific Name: Regalecus glesne
    • Diet: Carnivorous filter feeder
    • Size: Can exceed 30 feet!
    • Origin: Worldwide in temperate and tropical oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The giant oarfish is the world’s longest fish and a true sea monster of the deep. These serpent-like fish have a spiky red crest and long tassel-like fins below their heads that make them look just like a dragon!

    Despite their fearsome appearance, giant oarfish are not aggressive fish and actually feed on tiny sea creatures that they filter out of the water.

    16. Deep Sea Anglerfish

    Deep Sea Female Angler Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanocetus johnsonii etc.
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Size: 1 – 6 inches
    • Origin: Widespread in tropical and temperate oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The humpback anglerfish is a terrifying deep-sea fish that looks like something straight out of a nightmare. These fascinating creatures grow to about 6 inches, so they’re actually just miniature monsters from the deep.

    The deepsea anglerfish has impressive fangs and a huge mouth for capturing small fish and other unfortunate sea creatures. They may not breathe fire, but these deepsea dragon fish do have a glowing lure on the end of a stalk that attracts their prey within striking distance.

    17. Seahorses

    Seahorse Couple
    • Scientific Name: Hippocampus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 13 inches depending on the species
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons for smaller species
    • Diet: Carnivorous, eats live crustaceans
    • Origin: Widespread in warm, shallow coastal areas
    • Temperature: 72-78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Seahorses may be named after common farm animals, but if you look a little closer, these adorable creatures have a striking resemblance to miniature dragons! These little fish from the Syngnathidae family have spiky, elongated bodies, spiny crests, and long snouts that make them look nothing like a regular fish.

    Seahorses are small and peaceful creatures that inhabit shallow coastal waters around the world where they hunt tiny crustaceans. They are slow swimmers that prefer to grasp onto seaweed and other structures with their prehensile tails than fight against strong sea currents.

    Several captive-bred seahorse species are available in the aquarium hobby, and they make fascinating display animals for dedicated fishkeepers. Avoid wild-caught specimens because they are difficult to keep without live food.

    18. Stoplight Loosejaw

    • Scientific Name: Malacosteus sp.
    • Diet: Carnivore, feeds on marine invertebrates and other fish
    • Size: Reaches 10 inches
    • Origin: Worldwide in deep oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    Stoplight loosejaws are deep-sea-dwellers that live thousands of feet below the surface in total darkness. They have evolved the incredible ability to produce green and red light from special organs in their jaw, which they can use to find their prey in the darkness.

    These scary dragon fish have tiny tails, long, sharp teeth, and huge jaws. However, they only live below about 1,500 feet and grow to less than a foot long, so you have nothing to fear next time you visit the beach!

    19. Teugelsi Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus teugelsi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons for full-grown specimens
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on invertebrates and other fish
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Temperature: 77-82 °F

    The Teugelsi bichir is a rare but fascinating freshwater fish that looks like a dragon. These prehistoric forest-dwellers have prominent scales and a spiky dorsal fin just like a mythical fire-breathing monster!

    The species is occasionally seen for sale in the aquarium trade and makes an interesting pet for fishkeepers with large tanks. Like other bichirs, these fish are carnivorous and will snack on other fish at night when they come out to feed.

    20. Mottled Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus weeksii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Grows to about 23 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons for a full-grown specimen
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Central Africa
    • Temperature: 76 – 82 °F

    Here’s another freshwater dragon fish for all the bichir lovers out there. The mottled bichir is a fascinating predatory species from Africa with an intimidating scaly appearance.

    These rare nocturnal fish need a high-protein diet to stay healthy, so they are not recommended for a community aquarium with smaller tank mates! They are very hardy fish that can breathe air and even travel over land in moist conditions.

    21. Scorpionfish

    • Scientific Name: Scorpaenidae family
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches to 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons + depending on species
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on other fish and small sea creatures
    • Origin: Widespread in marine and brackish habitats
    • Temperature: Species dependent
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Scorpionfish are a large group of bizarre saltwater fish with dragon-like features and a venomous spine. These carnivorous fish often have amazing camouflage, which they rely on to ambush their prey. Many species are available for marine aquariums, but be warned, some of these fish are very dangerous!

    22. Koi

    Koi
    • Scientific Name: Cyprinus carpio
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Over 2 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 1500 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 59 – 77 °F

    The famous Koi fish is seen as a noble creature in Japan. There is a legend that states that if a Koi climbed the waterfall on the Yellow River that it would turn into a Koi Dragon.

    The most similar looking Koi to be found in the hobby that looks like a dragon would be a butterfly koi. Though not considered a true koi by many purist, their fins give them that flying look.

    Final Thoughts

    Dragons do exist! Maybe not the flying, firebreathing kind you’ve seen in the movies, but there’s plenty of weird and wonderful dragon fish swimming around out there. Some of these amazing animals even thrive in fish tanks, so who knows, you could even keep a dragon in your own room.

    Which fish do you think most resembles a real-life dragon? Share your top pick in the comments below!

  • Hermit Crab Care (In 7 Simple Steps)

    Hermit Crab Care (In 7 Simple Steps)

    So, you’re considering embarking on a delightful journey of pet ownership with the quirky and fascinating creature known as the hermit crab? Well, buckle up! If you think these little crustaceans are just about a cute shell, you’re in for a surprise. These tropical beings are full of surprises and require a carefully crafted environment to thrive, which is why hermit crab care is essential. Let’s dive into Hermit Crab Care, shall we?

    Key Takeaways

    • A spacious, natural habitat with a deep sand and coconut fiber substrate is critical for hermit crabs to dig, molt, and feel at home.
    • Hermit crabs need a carefully controlled environment — maintain temps between 72-82°F and relative humidity between 60-80% for their health and comfort.
    • Hermit crabs thrive socially and need spare shells and companions to swap shells with, but avoid painted shells due to toxicity.

    Before You Get Started

    Here are some recommended items to obtain when starting up a Hermit Crab tank:

    • A glass tank – at least 10 gallons in size
    • Screen lid with clips or an aquarium lid
    • Heater source – under tank heater or a heat lamp
    • Water declorinator/ water conditioner
    • Substrate
    • 2 water bowls for salt and freshwater that is deep enough for them to submerge into
    • Thermometer and Hygrometer
    • Extra shells – same size and larger than what the crab already has
    • Food bowl
    • Hand Mister – or electric fogger
    • Calcium source – Cuttle, crushed coral, or egg shells

    Hermit Crab Care In 7 Simple Steps

    Aquarium Example

    Hermit crabs, sometimes known as land crabs, are intriguing creatures found in tropical habitats. To make sure they live comfortably and healthily at home, they need the right habitat with enough food for them to munch on plus empty shells that hermits naturally need. Setting up an ideal environment suitable for these little crustaceans before bringing them into our homes is essential.

    Step 1 – The Tank

    To create a great living space properly equipped for your tiny companions, here’s what you should know: prepare spacious surroundings where the crabs can move around freely like their natural setting, choose bedding options accordingly, never forget to provide sufficient amounts of food such as fruits or vegetables along with several available empty shells. The ideal tank for a hermit crab will be 10 gallons for small crabs, but tanks as large as 75 gallons are preferred for fully grown hermits and for community of them.

    Your tank must be secured with a lid or a mesh cover. All hermit crabs are great climbers and are strong for their size. The lid must be secured as hermits have been known to pop up the lids on their own. A heat resistant cover is preferred either use a glass cover used in aquariums or a cover designed for reptiles.

    Step 2 – Selecting The Right Substrate

    Hermit crabs need an ideal habitat that contains a mix of sand and coconut fiber (also known as eco earth) for their bed, playground and dining area. A 5:1 mix of sand and coconut fiber is a popular mix among keepers.

    This substrate should be 6-12 inches deep at least. Three times higher than its largest crab occupant to permit burrowing comfortably when needed. Introducing drainage components is essential in keeping air circulation high so these hermits can breathe properly while helping retain moisture levels.

    Step 3 – Temperature Control

    Under Tank Heater

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    To keep hermit crabs warm and happy, an under tank heater such as ultratherm heat pads is ideal. By maintaining a consistent temperature of 78°F or above with the help of a heater, these low wattage density elements provide just enough warmth to their habitat without getting too hot. Proper temperatures between 78-85°F are what you should shoot for.

    Note that some species can tolerate lower temperatures. Purple pinchers are a good example as they can tolerate lower temperatures down to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

    Step 4 – Understand Your Humidity Requirements

    Maintaining a correct humidity level is essential for hermit crabs’ survival. This should be somewhere between 60-80% as this environment encourages them to thrive. To check the moisture levels, you could use an electronic hygrometer. If the humidity drops too low, it can lead to the suffocation of these animals.

    Step 5 – Feeding And Nutrition

    Feeding-Hermit-Crabs

    Hermit crabs enjoy a range of foods from insects to plant matter. They are omnivores and scavengers in nature. Here are a few hermit crab food selections you can offer on the menu:

    • Fruits – mange, apple, bananas, grapes
    • Protein Sources – Insects (mealworms), seafood, beef (beef lung/beef tripe
    • Vegetables – Oak/Maple leaves, carrots, squash, tomatoes

    Step 6 – Water Essentials

    Hermit crabs need special water dishes filled with an ocean salt mix to ensure the biggest crab can submerge. For the saltwater bowl, this must be prepared with a marine salt mix that should be of similar saliny than you would have for a saltwater tank (1.025 salinity or 35 PPT).

    These deep bowls also create perfect little ‘crab digs’ by giving them access to moisture while keeping their environment humidified. All water must be treated for chlorine using a declorinator like Seachem prime

    Step 7 – Provide Proper Shells

    You will need 3 to 5 shells per crab. They must be slightly larger than what the crab is currently wearing. Look for something natural. You can purchase shells at craft stores or even online. The ideal shell is a circular or oval shaped opening and should be sterilized before adding to their habitant. As long as shells are natural, you should be good to go.

    What To Avoid Doing

    • Don’t offer painted or glazed shells – these are dangerous and toxic to your crab!
    • Do not feed any plant matter that has been treated with pesticides. Hermits are very sensitive to treated plants.
    • Never add tap water directly into your crabs bowl
    • Never use non-marine grade salt when making your saltwater bowls
    • Avoid anything chrome in the tank. Nickel, arsenci, and cadmium are also highly toxic to them. Research what your decor is made of to avoid any issues. Natural is your friend!
    • Avoid iron and other rust prone items – humidity will make metals prone to rust

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCoenobita clypeatus (Caribbean hermit crab) and Coenobita compressus (Ecuadorian hermit crab)
    Common NamesHermit Crab, Land Hermit Crabs
    FamilyCoenobitidae
    OriginCaribbean
    Skill LevelModerate
    Average Life Span10 years
    Average Adult Size2-6 inches
    DietOmnivorne
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallon tank
    Humidity Range70% to 85%
    Temperature Range75 – 85 degrees F

    Social Dynamics

    Group-Hermit-Crabs

    Hermit crabs, despite the moniker they’ve been given, are quite social creatures and enjoy being part of a group. As each crab needs around five to ten spare shells for growth over their lifespan as well as exchanging them on occasion. It’s essential that small hermit crabs have access to hiding places for comfort when in groups.

    One great thing about hermits is that their size doesn’t matter. Unlike fish where you have to worry about little fish getting eaten by larger ones, your hermits will not care. Aggression will occur if you do not have enough shells around for everyone. Other than that concern, hermit crabs love to be around each other.

    However, hermits should only be housed with other hermits. Do not mix them with reptiles or amphibians. Quarantining before release hermit crabs to their new environment is recommended. Do so for a month for each addition to prevent mites (more on this later).

    Health and Safety Practices

    Taking care of your pet hermit crab is not difficult. While molting, it’s best for them to have some space away from the other crabs so they can do it safely and without interruption.

    You will deal with issues humidity related such as mold. Remove mold as soon as you see it and allow the affected decoration to completely dry before adding them back.

    Pests are your main issue with hermit crabs, not so much disease. Heat and humidity will attract pests like mites, isopods, and fruit flies. Mites can be prevented by quarantining new additions. Fruit flies can be eliminated with the use of a non-toxic trap.

    Maintenance And Upkeep of the Habitat

    Hermits are amazingly simple to keep. Your main daily concerns aside from feeding will be humidity and heat. Here are a few things that you should do routinely.

    DailyWeeklyMonthly
    Check temperatureClean out water bowlsChange water (for cycled water)
    Check humidityClean out decor
    Remove uneaten food

    Closing Thoughts

    Caring for hermit crabs may seem intimidating, but it can be incredibly rewarding and enriching when done right. A successful experience is determined by creating an adequate home environment to suit the crustaceans’ needs as well as comprehending their social behaviors, nutrition requirements and dietary habits. It’s more than just meeting these fundamentals though. In order to gain a deep understanding of your hermit crab’s individual personality quirks, you must learn about them through observation. Embark on this unique journey with the helpful guidance needed to become true pet parents!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are hermit crabs easy to take care of?

    Hermit crabs are relatively easy to look after, since they’ve adapted to survive on land and can live for up to 15 years when cared for properly. These creatures appreciate company, so owning several of them is recommended.

    Do hermit crabs recognize their owner?

    Hermit crabs have the remarkable ability to learn and recognize their owners’ voices, and even come when called by name. It’s quite astonishing how these particular kinds of crab can form such a strong bond with human companions.

    How many hermit crabs should be kept together?

    Hermit crabs should be housed together in pairs or small groups with no fewer than 10 gallons of space for each two hermits, so they can prosper.

    How do you take care of a hermit crab for beginners?

    If you’re a beginner looking to keep hermit crabs, make sure that their environment has the correct temperature (75-85 degrees) using either heaters or lamps and also maintain humidity at 70-85% by spraying dechlorinated water in its tank. Light needs to be present for 8-12 hours each day with fluorescent/LED bulbs but avoid UVB lighting as it is too strong.

    Can hermit crabs eat lettuce?

    Hermit crabs can consume romaine lettuce as a nutritional supplement and enjoyable treat alongside other fruits and vegetables. These little crustaceans require essential vitamins that the nutrient-rich plant matter found in these foods offer them, making it an integral part of their diet.

    References

  • How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums (In 7 Steps)

    How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums (In 7 Steps)

    Can lucky bamboo thrive in your aquarium and benefit its inhabitants? Indeed, it can! This article delivers the key details on introducing “lucky bamboo in aquarium” to your tank, managing its growth, how to grow it (in 7 simple steps), and the perks it brings to your aquatic setup.

    Key Takeaways

    • Lucky Bamboo is not a true bamboo species, but a resilient and adaptable aquatic plant that improves water quality and provides hiding places for fish in freshwater aquariums.
    • To ensure Lucky Bamboo thrives in an aquarium, it must be partially submerged, provided with the right water conditions using dechlorinated water, moderate CO2 levels, and placed in a substrate with low to moderate indirect light.
    • Regular care for Lucky Bamboo includes proper pruning to promote growth, cautious fertilization, and it can be easily propagated in water to expand your underwater garden.

    Before You Get Started

    You will need the following to successfully grow lucky bamboo in an aquarium (check out video from our YouTube Channel):

    • At least a 5 gallon tank (this is the minimum size for any fish you keep)
    • Strong filtration unit
    • Active nutrient rich substrate
    • Freshwater tank that is rimless (so the plant leaves can be outside of the tank
    • Plant scissors (seek out outdoor garden sheers for stems
    • Liquid CO2 or a CO2 system

    How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums: Step By Step

    Let’s give you these 7 quick steps on how to grow your lucky bamboo.

    1. Preparing Your Aquarium

    Including Lucky Bamboo into your aquarium can be quite exciting. There are few things to take note of for a successful start and sustained growth in this environment. Placement is important. The best way to get optimum use out of it would be at either corner or background regions. The plant cannot be completely submerged. Partially submerge lucky bamboo and have the leaves outside of the water. Leaves not submerged will discolor and rot, leading to stunted development and ammonia production in the aquarium. Moderate-high carbon dioxide levels will provide optimal conditions so that the plant thrives well inside an aquarium setting with ease, especially if you plan to keep other plants.

    2. Get Substrate And Lighting Right

    When it comes to growing Lucky Bamboo in an aquarium, two major factors have to be considered: substrate and lighting. An effective mix of gravel and aquatic plant soil should make up the three-inch deep base for the bamboo’s roots so they can anchor securely while also accessing nutrients. There are multiple active substrates available in the hobby that will work or if you want to go the cheaper route you can consider an organic dirted substrate.

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    As far as light is concerned, lucky bamboo does best when exposed to indirect bright or moderate illumination. Different levels will still work, but not quite optimally.

    3. Planting

    Illustration Of Planting In Aquarium

    If you’re ready to plant Lucky Bamboo in the aquarium, there are some steps that will help it take root and grow. To plant the bamboo: create small holes for each stem, place each of them carefully into these prepared spots, cover all of them with substrate, pressing gently afterwords.

    Whether growing fully submerged or partially so (just top parts above water surface), this type of bamboo is suitable for an aquarium environment as long as care instructions like proper lighting and nutrition are followed properly.

    4. Position Stalks Correctly for Success

    For a flourishing Lucky Bamboo, it is important to position the stalks properly. An improper arrangement may lead to decomposition and rotting of the plant, which can cause toxins in your aquarium water that could be dangerous for its inhabitants. You should ensure that only the leafy portion remains out of water. If you submerge this part even for just a couple of weeks, decay will occur quickly. To keep things neat and trim, it’s acceptable to snip off some excess leaves on certain stalks where needed.

    5. Feed And Fertilize Your Plant

    The Lucky Bamboo plant needs several nutrients to thrive, mostly found in the water where it is placed. If kept in soil, you should fertilize this plant every 6-8 weeks and 3-6 times a year if planted inside liquid form. There are many liquid fertilizers like Easy Green or APT Complete that work great.

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    Yet be careful not to overfertilize as there are certain signs that may appear such as yellowed leaves, burnt roots, deformed foliage or stunted growth. Your main nutrients to monitor with this plant will be nitrate and phosphates, both of which can be monitored with aquarium test kits.

    6. Prune As Needed

    Looking after Lucky Bamboo requires regular pruning in order to maintain its appearance, size and health. The most efficient way to trim the bamboo stalks is by making a cut just above the nodes using scissors, shears or a clean knife for better results. Pruning not only keeps your lucky bamboo plant looking as you desire, but also stimulates new growth while avoiding legginess and reaching an excessive height.

    Don’t be afraid of giving it some snipping every once in a while – maintaining with good old fashioned pruning can make wonders on these aquarium plants.

    7. Maintain Water Parameters

    If you want to give your Lucky Bamboo the best possible start, then location is important but there’s more than that. You need water conditions which will enable it to flourish. The ideal option for this would be RO or distilled water as these don’t have any added chemicals like chlorine in them and are exactly what lucky bamboo prefers (though keep TDS level in mind for fish – more on that later in the post).

    If tap water is all you have available. Remember to dechlorinate first. A good dechlorator like SeaPrime does wonders.

    Pro Tips

    • If a stem turns yellow – remove it immediately. When they turn yellow, the roots can spread fungus and kill the rest of your plant
    • Keep in bright indirect light with good ventilation
    • Select healthy stalks when purchasing. There should be no yellowing. Trim the bamboo roots before planting to encourage new growth

    What To Avoid Doing

    • Never keep the leaves for your lucky bamboo submerged. They will decay and leech ammonia into your aquarium
    • Do not place your plant in direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight works and direct sunlight will encourage algae growth in the aquarium. Face leaves away from lighting and sunlight
    • Don’t overheat the tank. This plant does well in water temperature under 80 degrees and will do well in room temperature waters. They can go as low as 65 degrees F, which should accommodate nearly all fish in the hobby except for very warm water fish like Discus or Rams
    • Do not use gravel only. This plant needs nutrients in the soil. Considered a dirted substrate or active substrate, then cap with gravel.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameDracaena sanderiana
    Common NamesLucky Bamboo, Ribbon Dracaena
    FamilyAsparagaceae
    OriginCentral Africa
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingLow To Moderate
    Tank PlacementBackground
    Flow RateLow to moderate
    Temperature Range65-80° F
    HeightUp to 3 feet
    pH Range6.0 – 7.5
    PropagationCuttings
    Growth RateSlow to Moderate
    Feed TypeColumn and Root Feeder
    CO2 RequirementNo

    Lucky Bamboo, which is also known as Dracaena sanderiana by scientists, has become popular among aquarium owners. It’s a hearty and durable plant that can endure for days or weeks without care, an ideal choice to spruce up any fish tank! Its name might make you think it’s true bamboo, but in reality this species from Central Africa is actually more related to the lilies found outdoors.

    An advantage of using Lucky Bamboo over other types of aquatic plants like those needing direct sunlight lies in its origin – tropical rainforests where no extra light source was needed making it suitable for enclosed tanks housing freshwater dwellers. Plus, it helps improve water quality.

    Lucky Bamboo vs. True Bamboo

    Regular BambooLucky Bamboo
    FamilyPoaceaeAsparagaceae
    AppearanceThick rhizome grows very fast (up to 2 feet a day)Light green leaves
    StemHollowFleshy and full
    SizeOver 100 feet39 inches
    Grows in Aquarium?NoYes

    For those curious as to how Lucky Bamboo differs from genuine bamboo, the differences are plenty. Compared to real bamboo native to Southeastern and Southern Asia that can grow up to 9 inches daily, Lucky Bamboo only takes 6 months on average to reach 19 inches. True bamboo are plants pandas eat. If you place true bamboo in your tank, it will rot, leech ammonia, and kill your fish.

    Lucky bamboo on the other hand thrives with whatever water conditions you put it under makes ideal for various aquarium setups providing hiding spots not just for decoration, but also safety aiding the environment overall within an aquatic habitat. They are harmless to aquatic animals even when ingested by fish who dwell among them!

    Straight Or Twisted Varieties?

    When you go shopping for these bamboo plants, you will notice there are straight stalk and twisted varieties. A technique is used to grow the plant in a twisted pattern, which adds to the aesthetics. Aside from fitting the plant in the aquarium and being able to plant more densely, there is no other significant difference I have seen from each variety that makes one better than the other. Just pick the one you like best. For me, since I like to plant densely with these, I lean on the straight stalk types.

    Propagating Lucky Bamboo

    For those looking to expand their lucky bamboo collection without additional purchases, the plant’s ease of propagation is a major advantage. The process starts with taking stem cuttings from its parent and ensuring that clean cuts are made, paying attention to avoid jagged edges. To increase the success rate, it is advised to put these cuttings into water rather than planting them directly in soil. This simple technique yields an abundance of luscious bamboo plants for all gardening needs!

    Tank Mates

    Bettas

    Having the right companions in your aquarium can provide Lucky Bamboo with an environment it enjoys. Compatible aquatic creatures, such as:

    Shrimp work great too!

    When selecting tank mates for bamboo in your aquarium, there should be some caution taken – like avoiding crayfish or freshwater crab species which could uproot them. Some fish to avoid would be:

    Where To Get Them

    This is one of the few plants I’ll blog about that I will encourage you to purchase at a local garden supply store. They are far cheaper at garden shops; you can find both the twisted and straight varieties. Just clean them before planting as they may have been planted in soil. Otherwise, they are no different from purchasing at a local fish store – aside from the price (as they are much cheaper at garden stores).

    Conclusion

    Adding Lucky Bamboo to your home aquarium is both an enriching and rewarding experience. With its special qualities, flexible nature, and significance in many cultures, it brings a unique green charm to any aquatic setting. Caring for the bamboo correctly by maintaining proper water parameters, lighting conditions, and supplying nutrients helps make sure that you’re growing healthy lucky bamboo plants. So why not give it a try today fish keepers? Regular pruning will ensure your success with this interesting addition too!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Here are some FAQs I’ve gotten from readers. Is our question missing? Let a comment below this blog post and I’ll get back to you!

    Can you put lucky bamboo in fish tank?

    Lucky bamboo is a great choice for aquariums as it can both improve the appearance and provide other benefits such as reducing nitrate levels in the water, while at the same time increasing oxygen. Regular bamboo would not be suitable to put into fish tanks Lucky bamboo has adapted so that it will thrive underwater.

    Can bamboo be fully submerged in aquarium?

    Lucky bamboo, also known as water bamboo, cannot be fully submerged. The leaves should not be kept otherwater as they will rot away and leech ammonia into your tank. The rest of the plant can be submerged, but the leaves cannot.

    Can lucky bamboo be kept in water?

    This particular type of bamboo, known as lucky bamboo, is a great indoor plant choice because it can be kept in water with minimal upkeep. To keep the root system healthy and thriving, though, use filtered or distilled water when watering this beloved plant.

    What kind of lighting does Lucky Bamboo need in an aquarium?

    For healthy growth and appealing looks, it is important to give lucky bamboo in an aquarium bright yet indirect lighting. Moderation is key here! To attain the best results for your bamboo, make sure that they are exposed to moderate amounts of luminosity coming from a source that does not directly point at them. Ambient light also works, but be careful of too much exposure to the tank itself as it may promote algae growth.

    How can I propagate Lucky Bamboo?

    The propagation of Lucky Bamboo is possible by obtaining a neat stem cutting from the original plant and immersing it in water. This action can facilitate the growth of roots, ultimately culminating to be an entirely new bamboo plant! Not only that, but this process keeps all aspects intact like facts regarding lucky bamboo as well as its tone.

    Is Lucky Bamboo A Flowering Plant?

    Yes it is, however, it is not common to see it flower in cultivation. It mostly blooms in the wild. They can bloom in aquariums after several years, but the blooms will be small and insignificant.

  • How Do Betta Fish Sleep? (When And Where)

    How Do Betta Fish Sleep? (When And Where)

    Now that we know that fish sleep, albeit differently than humans, they follow sleep patterns and different sleeping behaviors.

    Betta fish are no different. Unlike most fish, betta fish are much like humans when it comes to their sleeping patterns, i.e., they sleep through the night and are active during the day.

    But if you ever wonder how do betta fish sleep, we have your answers! Just stay with us and get valuable insights into betta fish sleep patterns.

    Key Takeaways

    • Betta fish do, in fact sleep
    • Bettas like to rest a lot on decor and may appear lazy at times
    • To encourage activity, place them in a larger tank, add tankmates, and decor for enrichment
    • Low temperatures can also lead to excessive resting and sleeping – keep temps from 78 – 82 degrees F

    How Do Betta Fish Sleep?

    Like all living organisms, betta fish need sleep to function properly1. But of course, the way they sleep is far different than that of humans and other land animals because… well, they live in the sea with no beds, covers, or eyelids. 

    Though, the Siamese fighting fish are diurnal animals; they sleep at night and are active during the day—they may take short naps during the day for a few minutes. During nap time, Betta fish usually sleep near the bottom of the tank or on a flat surface, mainly on a plant or substrate. Also, unlike many fish, betta don’t have eyelids, so their eyes remain open when betta are sleeping. 

    Since we know that betta fish is a labyrinth fish with a special organ that allows easy breathing on the surface, you may also find them resting near the water’s surface or between floating plants, sleeping in a tilted position. 

    However, if your betta fish is spending too much time on their side or in any one direction, make sure it doesn’t have any underlying medical condition. 

    All in all, the sight of betta fish sleeping is beautiful and allows you to study your fish’s own sleeping habits and preferences. Some betta fish like to rest in a particular spot or position while some enjoy various sleeping locations. Therefore, it is important to provide your betta fish with a comfortable environment with lots of hiding spots.

    Sleeping Or Sick? – How To Tell If They Are

    Not sure whether your betta fish is sleeping or sick? Here are some of the ways you can find out if your betta is sleeping. 

    Gill flaring

    Single-Ray-Betta

    One of the most peculiar behaviors of betta fish is gill flaring which attracts many betta owners and other aquarists. Betta fish flare their gills for a variety of reasons. However, a sleeping betta fish might temporarily cease the gill flaring behavior to preserve energy while at rest. 

    Therefore, if you notice minimal or record gill flaring, know that your betta is taking its power nap!

    Breathing rate

    One of the most common signs your betta is sleeping is the slowed breathing rate with shallower breathing patterns.

    Reduced body movement and activity levels

    Like other fish, a sleeping fish tend to move slowly for extended periods of time. Therefore, they show minimal movement and interaction. If you’re a new betta owner, you may find your fish resting with no movement and activity levels. Fret not! They are not dead, just sleeping. 

    How Long Do They Rest?

    Like every human, every individual betta fish is different than others. Therefore, there is no one answer to “How long do betta fish sleep?”

    However, betta fish are diurnal animals i.e., they are active throughout the day and sleep at night. Therefore, if you find a betta sleeping a lot during the time, it is not normal behavior and could be a sign of disease or other problems.

    On average, betta fish sleep between 8 to 12 hours a day.

    Why Do Bettas Rest A Lot?

    Picture yourself swimming wearing a big, flared dress non-stop! Sounds tiring, doesn’t it?

    The same goes for betta fish. They have such long, flared beautiful wings that it gets tiring to carry them swimming around the fish tank. Therefore, betta fish, in general, fall under the lazy spectrum because they take longer periods of rest and sleep than their counterparts. 

    Just like betta fish, many varieties of goldfish with long fins and stout compact bodies also take significant time resting in the aquarium.

    Therefore, if your water parameters; water flow, and water temperature are within the ideal ranges, the inactivity of your fish is nothing serious. For your betta fish to thrive in your aquarium, the ideal water temperature should be between 78-82F since they are tropical fish and prefer warmer temperatures. If your water is too cold for their liking, bettas sleep more than usual because of slower metabolism and may suffer from health issues.

    Reasons why your Betta Fish is Sleeping a lot

    If you find your betta fish sleeping a lot during the day time, there can a various reasons:

    No Stimulation

    Betta_Fish_Bowl_large-1

    It would surprise you but your little guy in the tank gets bored too. And yes, they need a little stimulation activities. You might also try some fish training techniques. In short, if your betta is sleeping a lot, they might just be bored and need a little loving to be active again. 

    Aquarium lights

    Betta fish sleep throughout the night. Therefore, if you leave aquarium lights on during the night, they may disturb the natural sleep pattern of your fish and result in abnormal sleep cycles. Betta loves dark tanks, especially during the nighttime time because their natural habitat is dark and shallow with little water movement. Therefore, it’s crucial to mimic their natural habitat for their better health. 

    A healthy betta fish needs at least 12 hours of complete darkness each night in a comfortable environment to promote healthy sleep patterns.

    Temperature shock 

    Many aquarists have a misunderstanding that betta fish hibernate. When in reality, they go into temperature shock if the temperature drops below a certain mark since they are tropical fish.

    As a result, they may look like they are sleeping fish, but what actually happens is their metabolism slows down and causes temperature shock. Therefore, maintaining a comfortable water temperature is essential to keeping your betta fish healthy, happy, and thriving in an aquarium setting. 

    How to Stop Excessive Resting?

    Here are a few things you can do to stop reducing your bettas sleeping time. 

    1. Make sure the temperature in your tank is within the comfortable range; of 78-82F. If not, you can always install a heater to keep the water warm and easy for your betta fish. I also recommend using an in-tank thermometer for reliable temperature readings.
    2. Besides maintaining the water temperature and water flow, it is crucial to feed a varied diet consisting of live food, frozen food, pellets, and other occasional treats for a complete nutritional profile. 
    3. Last, but not least, always call your aquatic veterinarian for a careful examination of your betta fish. The most common fish diseases include mycobacteria and swim bladder disease may cause your fish to be more lazy and lethargic. 

    How To Distinguish Between a Sleeping Pet and a Dead One

    If you ever spot a betta fish floating on the top of your tank or lying on the bottom of the tank, fret not!

    They might just be sleeping… but in some cases, you might mistake a dead betta fish with a sleeping betta fish. Therefore, it’s important to pinpoint the differences between the two. Here are some of the signs of a dead betta fish you should look out for:

    1. If your betta fish stays at the bottom of the tank for several days, chances are they are dead. However, if they have just settled recently, they might just be sleeping peacefully.
    2. If the scales seem pointy and elevated away from the body with a swollen stomach, your betta fish might be just or is near death. 
    3. There are white spots around the body with discolored fins. You can use a flashlight to observe the color carefully.
    4. When they don’t even respond during the feed time and are not interested in food. 

    It is crucial to let your betta fish rest. However, if you find your fish lying motionless for long periods, examine the gills and mouth carefully and observe its breathing patterns. If your betta fish is not breathing and moving, know that it’s dead.

    FAQs

    How Do You Know If a Betta Fish Is Sleeping?

    You can tell if your betta fish is sleeping when there is reduced activity, reduced gill flaring, slowed breathing rate, and shallower breathing patterns. Most importantly, if your betta fish is lying on the bottom of the tank with little to no interaction, it is usually taking its well-deserved rest. 

    Do Betta Fish Sleep With The Light On?

    No. Since betta fish are diurnal fish species; like humans, they sleep through the night and are active during the day. Therefore, if you leave aquarium lights on during the night and day, they may not sleep as betta fish are light sleepers and aquarium lights may disturb their sleep patterns. 

    Nonetheless, leaving them in a dark aquarium for longer periods of time may turn them lazy, less active, and stressed.

    What Do Betta Fish Do When They Are Tired?

    Betta fish are active swimmers and they should be actively swimming and roaming around the tank regardless of the weight of their fins. However, if you notice your betta fish is spending more time at the bottom of the tank than usual, this is a sign of lethargy and should never be overlooked. 

    Does Betta Fish Like Resting On Leaves?

    Yes, betta sleeping on leaves is perfectly normal. Betta fish are commonly found resting on large, flat leaves or floating leaves in the tank. Therefore, if you don’t have aquatic plants, you can always get stick-on betta leaf hammocks from pet stores. 

    How much time does Betta Fish Sleep?

    In general, betta fish need at least 12 hours of darkness for a better and healthy life. They sleep during the night and are active during the day. Therefore, turning the tank light off is your best bet if you want your little guy healthy and happy. 

    Why is my Betta fish so lazy?

    Many factors contribute to the lethargy of your betta fish. For example, poor water quality, poor diet, unstable tank water temperature, and water flow. If water parameters are not maintained, betta fish sleeps more than usual and this may affect its overall health. Therefore, it is crucial to monitor the parameters and keep an eye on fish diseases.

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish keeping as a leisure hobby is increasing day by day, but taking care of your bettas’ sleep is one way to keep them healthy and active. Other than their diet, water parameters, and water flow, you should also consider keeping your tank clean and taking care of their tank mates. Always go for compatible tank mates such as mystery snails, shrimps, and guppies to reduce stress and increase interactivity. 

    A betta tank should be well-lit in the daytime and dark throughout the night, so they get enough sleep since they are very light sleepers. 

  • How To Cure Columnaris Disease (In 5 Steps)

    How To Cure Columnaris Disease (In 5 Steps)

    Having a problem with Columnaris? This nightmare of a disease can quickly kill your fish if left untreated.

    Fortunately, I’m offering you a quick solution on how to cure columnaris disease using easy to find products. This technique is an evolution over the 25 years in the hobby that I have had treating various fish diseases.

    In this blog post, I’ll outline the 5 steps you need to do to kick this infection to the curb!

    Key Takeaways

    • Columnaris is a gram negative bacterial infection that will kill a fish if left untreated
    • A three prong approach of salt, lower temperature, and Methylene blue is the current go to for curing this disease
    • Poor water quality and stress are the top reasons for this infection to occur
    • Once eradicated, a tank can be contaminated again by new introductions in the tank

    Before You Get Started

    You will need the following to cure this infection from your fish

    • Aquarium salt
    • Antibiotic medications – Methylene blue or Triple Sulfa (if available in your country)
    • Thermometer (To measure tank temperature)
    • Quarantine Tank (if available)

    How To Cure Columnaris: A Step By Step Guide

    Now that you have your supplies in order, let’s get started with step 1

    Step 1 – Quarantine The Fish

    While it is certainly possible to treat the fish inside your display tank, my preference is to treat them in a quarantine tank.  If you cannot set up a quarantine tank in time, you’ll need to treat in the display tank. Note that Methlene blue is known to stain silicone and will affect your system’s beneficial bacteria, which is why I prefer to quarantine.

    If you do not quarantine the fish, you should do a 50% water change before any treatment occurs. This will ensure you have ideal water parameters before you add any medications.

    Step 2 – Treat The Tank With Salt

    You will need to dose the tank with salt. You’ll need to be quite liberal with the dosage and amp it up to 2 and half tablespoons per gallon or 3 cups per 20 gallons. This is a lot of salt and will harm any plants in the tank. Note that some fish like Plecos are sensitive to salt so you will need to take caution with them. Some snails and shrimp are also not tolerate of salt treatment.

    Step 3 – Dose With Methylene Blue

    When antibiotics like Triple sulfa were available, this would have been my go to. However, since it is no longer available in the US and is hard to find (and expensive), my recommendation is to use Methylene Blue. While this is primarily used to treat fungal diseases, it is also effective for this treatment procedure because it acts as a disinfectant. Use the recommended dosage as stated on the manufacturer’s bottle

    Step 4 – Lower Water Temperature

    Columnaris spreads rapidly in higher water temperatures. Therefore, lowering the temperature might help. You want to target a temperature of 70 – 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

    However, if your fish is accustomed to higher temperatures, it will take some time to adjust to temperature changes. Thus, I recommend lowering the temperature by only 2F every two hours.

    Step 5 – Monitor Water Quality And Observe

    Columnaris bacteria thrive on organic waste. Therefore, it is essential to keep your tank clean and maintain the recommended water parameters for your fish. Check your water for ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, KH, and GH, and ensure nothing is affecting your fish adversely.

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    The observation period for this treatment is 7-10 days. In most cases, if the fish survives, the fish should be cured of columnaris and it should be eliminated from the tank. Anything you use in this tank that is untreated, you will want to sterilize. A solution of bleach or dry out for several days will kill off any remaining infection.

    What To Avoid Doing

    • Don’t ignore the condition – treat it quickly. Don’t wait around!
    • Avoid doing water changes. If a water change is made, you will need to re-dose the tank
    • Do not carelessly add fish afterward, consider a quarantine process for new additions going forward to prevent recontamination.

    What To Do If Symptoms Are Still Around After 10 Days?

    If the infection is stubborn, it’s time to go with a half dosage of meth blue and salt. This is an extreme dosage. Either this will eliminate the disease or your fish will end up passing away. Treatment after 10 days tends to have a low success rate, and we get into a worse case scenario.

    Note that this technique I outline does not use antibiotics. There are methods where you can, but I preferred for this post not to include them because the ideal medication isn’t available in the US and this method does have a high success rate.

    How To Prevent It

    As mentioned earlier, the Columnaris bacteria thrive on organic waste. Therefore, partial water changes every two weeks and regularly test water chemistry to ensure recommended water parameters are some of the best ways to keep the bacterial infection at bay. 

    Furthermore, the immune system of your fish should be healthy and strong enough to fight off the bacteria. Strong immunity is a result of eliminating stress factors such as bullying and harassment or water fluctuations from your aquarium. It is also recommended to clean up the fish waste and decaying plant matter and gravel to foster a hygienic environment for your fish. 

    Also, overcrowding, tank size, and tank mates should be taken into consideration because these factors directly impact the stress levels in your fish. Additionally, a balanced diet with occasional treats might help keep the infection at bay. 

    What Exactly Is This Disease?

    Columnaris disease is common among freshwater fish, particularly among livebearers fish such as guppy fish, Molly, etc. This disease is mainly caused by Columnaris bacteria that are long and rod-shaped; appearance-wise.

    NameFlexibacter columnaris
    Common TreatmentsSalt and antibiotics
    Short-Term TreatmentAntibiotics
    CausesTransferred from infected fish, plants, and water
    Treatment Time7 – 10 days
    Common SymptomsSaddleback-like growth, lesions on body, mouth, infected gills

    Columnaris disease is commonly known as saddleback disease, guppy disease, cotton wool disease, and cotton mouth disease. In brackish and saltwater the species Flexibacter maritimus is the equivalent and is more severe, though not common to see in aquariums.

    What Are The Symptoms?

    Columnaris is often mistaken as a fungal infection because the fish might show signs of mold-like lesions on their bodies. However, Columnaris is caused by bacterial infection and forms lesions that progress gradually and end up killing the entire freshwater fish population in your tank, if left untreated.

    Some of the common symptoms of Columnaris are:

    1. Grey or white spots on the head, fins, and gills
    2. Infected gill tissue
    3. Lesions on the body
    4. Lesions on the mouth area or puffy lips
    5. Frayed, bleached out, and ragged fish’s fins

    One of the first signs you’ll notice is frayed or ragged fins, commonly referred to as fin rotHowever, not all fish experience fin rot and may show some other symptoms. For instance grayish or whitish spots of patches on the head or gills.

    Sometimes, the lesions on your fish extend down to the sides, giving it the appearance of a saddle near the dorsal fin, and that’s why the common name for Columnaris disease is “saddleback disease”. Ultimately, as the bacterial infection progresses you may notice some other external changes in your fish such as moldy lesions around the mouth and frayed fins. Once the saddleback symptoms occur, a fish will usually survive 1-2 day days if left untreated until ultimately passing away.

    However, not all symptoms are external. Some are behaviors that make your fish look more lethargic and weak, with a loss of appetite and hanging out at the surface of water.

    What Are The Causes ?

    The main culprit of the cotton wool disease or saddleback disease is a bacterial infection that particularly affects freshwater fish’s gills. Some of the major causes of columnaris disease in freshwater fish are:

    1. Poor water quality

    One of the main reasons your young fish might get Columnaris is poor water quality that compromises the overall health of your fish. 

    High levels of ammonia, nitrates, and other pollutants can contaminate your entire tank water and induce stress in fish. Stress messes up the immune system of your fish, making them susceptible to fatal diseases like Columnaris. 

    2. Stress 

    As mentioned earlier, stress weakens the immunity system of your fish, making it more prone to diseases. Avoid overcrowding, choose suitable tank mates, and feed a balanced diet to eliminate stress in your aquarium. 

    3. Injury

    Fish with injuries in the form of wounds and lesions are more vulnerable to bacterial infections because Columnaris usually enter the fish through open wounds and lesions on the skin, gills, or fish’s mouth. 

    4. Fluctuating water temperature

    Studies suggest that fluctuating water temperature influences the metabolic rate of bacteria and affects their growth activity1. Columnaris are mostly associated with warmer temperatures. Therefore, maintaining a stable water temperature for specific fish in your aquarium might help prevent Columnaris and bacterial proliferation. 

    5. Untidy tank 

    Columnaris bacteria thrive on uneaten food, fish waste, decaying plant matter, dead fish, waste products, and overall a contaminated tank with lots of pollutants. Therefore, it’s crucial to keep your tank clean with pristine water conditions for a healthy ecosystem. 

    6. Poor nutrition

    A balanced diet means a healthy immune system. A healthy immune system means a strong fight against bacterial and fungal infections. 

    Feeding your fish a varied diet, rich in proteins and occasional treats is important to keep the livestock healthy and happy for a long period of time. 

    7. Introducing New Livestock To The Tank

    If you want to introduce a new fish into your tank, think again!

    Because you never know what the fish might bring into your super healthy and playful aquarium. Quarantining a new fish into a separate tank is the most reasonable idea to avoid big problems such as Columnaris and other fish diseases. 

    How Does It Enter Your Fish’s Body?

    Columnaris strikes when the fish’s immune system is not strong enough to fight the bacteria. The bacteria can enter your fish’s body through gills, mouth, or small wounds on the skin. Therefore, the physical health of your fish is trivial to ensure the overall health. 

    The cotton wool disease or saddle back disease is often spread through contaminated fish nets, containers, and uneaten food. Since the disease is highly contagious, it’s always recommended to sterilize your tank decorations or equipment to keep everything in prime condition. 

    Conclusion

    Columnaris disease is common in freshwater and tropical fish at water temperatures above 15°C or 59°F. At higher water temperatures, the progress of Columnaris disease is faster. Therefore, it is suggested to keep the water temperature low and stable throughout the year. Also, Columnaris bacteria love fish waste, dead fish, and organic waste. Therefore, proper filtration and weekly water changes should be done to prevent Columnaris in the long run. A good quarantine practice should prevent the problem entirely. 

    Have any questions for me? Leave a comment in the comments below. I’m also leaving an FAQs section asked by some readers so you can review them as well. Thanks for reading and see you next time!

    FAQS

    How long can a fish survive with Columnaris?

    The survival time of a fish with Columnaris depends on a number of factors. For instance, the severity of the infection, the presence of other stressors in your aquarium, and the overall health of your fish. The fish with the strongest immune system fight off the disease better than others. Therefore, it is important to understand the factors that may affect the lifespan of your fish in general. 

    In some cases, Columnaris can cause instant death of your fish within a short period. It’s especially true if the infection is advanced and not treated properly. However, most cases of Columnaris can be treated successfully if diagnosed early with appropriate treatment. 

    However, if your fish is already stressed or suffering from other health issues, it may have a hard time fighting off this disease. Therefore, it is important to monitor water quality and perform water changes regularly. Also, feed your fish a balanced, nutritious diet to support a healthy immune system. 

    All in all, consult a professional before treating your fish or administering any special medicine for Columnaris.

    Can fish survive Columnaris?

    It depends on many factors such as the severity of the infection, the health of the fish, the effectiveness of the treatment provided, and if it is caught early.

    Nonetheless, it is a highly contagious disease that requires swift intervention. Some of the factors that may help in the survival of your fish include:

    1. Early detection by recognizing the symptoms of the diseases and starting the treatment promptly. The longer the infection progresses, the less chances of survival for your fish. 
    2. Maintaining aquarium water quality and tank conditions by providing a stress-free environment is essential for the overall immune function of your fish.
    3. Isolating the infected fish from the healthy ones can prevent the spread of the disease for more focused treatment 

    Is columnaris a fungal or bacterial disease?

    Many aquarists confuse Columnaris with a fungal infection. However, the causative agent of Columnaris disease is a bacteria named, Flavobacterium columnare, which is a gram negative bacteria affecting various freshwater fish. 

    You can easily spot a fish with Columnaris disease by the presence of white, thread-like lesions on the skin, fins, and gills. And while Columnaris is a bacterial infection, it may give birth to many fungal infections.

    Can salt cure columnaris?

    Yes it can when done correctly. This blog post outlined a simple solution of using a hard dosage of salt to cure columnaris. It can be used to eliminate the disease as long as it is caught early.

    How do you diagnose Columnaris disease?

    Columnaris disease begins as external infections as lesions on the body surface and gills. However, the type of lesions depends on the fish. In catfish, some of the external symptoms are small and circular lesions with gray blue centers and red margins. However, in scaled fish, the lesions begin on the outer margins of the fins and gradually spread throughout their bodies. 

    Some behavioral signs of Columnaris include lethargy, loss of appetite, erratic swimming patterns, scratching, and rubbing against the surface to aid discomfort. 

    One of the obvious areas of examination is the fish’s gills. That’s because Columnaris directly affects the gills and may show signs of inflammation, discoloration, or excessive mucus production. 

    Is Columnaris treatable?

    As fatal and contagious as it may seem, Columnaris is definitely treatable with the right medications, early detection, and prompt intervention. 

    How to treat columnaris in betta fish?

    Treating Columnaris in betta fish is pretty much the same as treating any other fish. Use the same steps outlined in the post for betta fish. It should work the same with them. The main issue with bettas is the water temperatures, but Bettas can tolerate lower temperatures for longer than this treatment calls for.

    How to disinfect aquarium equipment after each use?

    While treating Columnaris outbreaks in your tropical fish tank, it is recommended to sterilize or disinfect all the tank decorations and other equipment after each use. For this, you can use the commercial treatment of Benzalkonium Chloride solution (Net Soak or Net Dip). Or you can also use hydrogen peroxide, and dip all of your tank decorations in 3% solution. 

  • The 10 Best Aquariums In US [175 Analyzed & Reviewed]

    The 10 Best Aquariums In US [175 Analyzed & Reviewed]

    Looking for the Best Aquariums In USA?

    How about ones not named Georgia, Sheed, or the Monterey aquarium? I got you covered. A new study by us at Aquarium Store Depot ranked Belle Isle Aquarium in Detroit, MI, as America’s most beautiful aquarium. 

    We analyzed the number of Tripadvisor reviews1 that contained words such as ‘beautiful,’ ‘breathtaking,’ and ‘picturesque’ for 175 public aquariums across America. Each was then ranked based on the percentage of reviews containing these beauty keywords, to determine America’s most eye-catching aquariums. 

    Key Takeaways

    • Belle Isle Aquarium in Detroit, MI, is found to be America’s most beautiful aquarium, with 30.7% of visitor reviews referencing its beauty. 
    • Butterfly House & Aquarium in Sioux Falls, SD, is second, with 30.1% of reviews talking about its beauty. 
    • Birch Aquarium in La Jolla, CA, is third, with 25.8% of reviews mentioning its beauty. 

    The People’s Choice for 10 Best Aquariums In US

    Let’s get straight to our topic and discuss our top ten from this analysis and review. Below is is a video from our YouTube channel. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We go into greater detail in the blog post below.

    1. Belle Isle – Detroit, Michigan 

    Topping the list of America’s most beautiful aquariums is Belle Isle Aquarium in Detroit, Michigan, where 30.7% of its reviews contain keywords describing its beauty.  

    First opened in 1904, it is one of the oldest aquariums in America, hosting more than 200 different saltwater and freshwater species. The historic building hosts tropical fish from all over the world, with the majority of species coming from the Great Lakes region. The aquarium was closed in 2005 but was reopened in 2012 after the community showed there was enough demand to support it. 

    2. Butterfly House – Sioux Falls, South Dakota 

    Second on the list of America’s most beautiful aquariums is the Butterfly House & Aquarium in Sioux Falls, South Dakota, with 30.1% of its reviews containing beauty keywords.  

    The only public saltwater aquarium in the Dakotas, Butterfly House & Aquarium hosts hundreds of species of fish and corals. The fish on display come from all over the world, ranging from the Indo-Pacific region to the Caribbean. At the aquarium’s Under the Dock exhibit, visitors can see species such as yellow stingrays, horseshoe hawkfish, and princess parrotfish. 

    3. Birch – La Jolla, California 

    In third place is Birch Aquarium in La Jolla, California, where beauty keywords featured among 25.8% of its reviews. Birch Aquarium was first established in 1903 and went through a series of relocations until establishing itself at its current location at the University of California, San Diego.  

    Also known as Scripps Aquarium, it boasts a vast selection of marine life, such as a Loggerhead Sea turtle and a giant Pacific octopus and is home to a huge two-story tall kelp forest. 

    4. Point Defiance Zoo – Tacoma, Washington 

    With 24.6% of its reviews containing beauty keywords, the Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium in Tacoma, Washington, is the fourth most beautiful aquarium in America.  

    Featuring species from the Pacific Ocean, Point Defiance is home to animals such as the scalloped hammerhead shark and the giant Pacific octopus. This is in addition to having one of only two jelly globes in the country, which is part of their wider jellyfish display.  

    5. Seacoast Science Center – Rye, New Hampshire 

    In fifth is the Seacoast Science Center in Rye, New Hampshire where beauty keywords featured in 23.3% of its reviews. The Seacoast Science Center showcases species from the Gulf of Maine and further afield. Exhibits include tropical reef habitats, interactive edge of the sea touch tanks, and a whale exhibit that is situated underneath a 32-foot whale skeleton suspended from the ceiling.  

    6. VIA – Schenectady, New York 

    The sixth most beautiful aquariums in the USA is VIA Aquarium in Schenectady, New York, with 21.7% of its reviews featuring beauty keywords. The VIA Aquarium features 45 exhibits of marine and reptile life.  

    It offers experiences such as stingray feeding, behind-the-scenes tours to discover how the aquarium runs, and the chance to be a junior aquarist for a day. 

    7. Sea Life Park Hawaii – Waimānalo, Hawaii 

    Sea Life Park Hawaii is the seventh most beautiful aquarium in America, with 21.3% of its reviews containing beauty keywords.  

    It is located on the east coast of the Hawaiian island of O’ahu and features an aquarium, marine mammal park, and bird sanctuary that boasts a wide range of flora and fauna for visitors to experience.  

    Visitors can also learn about native Hawaiian sharks inside the Shark Cave exhibit and interact with nature’s smartest aquatic marine mammals in the Dolphin Lagoon. 

    8. Mississippi Aquarium – Gulfport, Mississippi 

    With 20.1% of its reviews containing beauty keywords, Mississippi Aquarium ranks as the eighth most beautiful aquarium in America. 

    Opened in 2020, the Mississippi Aquarium hosts more than 200 aquatic species across 12 fresh and saltwater exhibits. Species on display include sharks, stingrays, and Atlantic bottlenose dolphins – the latter of which visitors can book an interactive experience with. 

    9. Branson (At The Boardwalk) – Branson, Missouri 

    In ninth place is the Aquarium at the Boardwalk in Branson, Missouri where 20.1% of reviews describe its beauty.  

    Also known as Branson Aquarium, the Aquarium at the Boardwalk boasts many unique ways to experience the aquatic habitats on display, such as underwater tunnels where you can view sharks and stingrays swimming above, as well as their interactive Jelly Infinity room that showcases jellyfish. 

    10. Cape Cod Museum of Natural History – Brewster, Massachusetts 

    Rounding out America’s top ten most beautiful aquariums is the Cape Cod Museum of Natural History in Brewster, Massachusetts, where 19.8% of its reviews feature beauty keywords.  

    The museum and accompanying aquarium showcase the wide variety of flora and fauna that live in the cape’s land and water habitats, with both freshwater and saltwater aquatic species on display. The museum provides plenty of learning opportunities for visitors, especially about horseshoe crabs, which have been a focus of the museum’s conservation efforts through their horseshoe crab head start program. 

    Mark Valderrama, Owner of Aquarium Store Depot, said:  

    “The waters of our planet are home to all kinds of weird, wonderful, and beautiful life. While many people might not get the chance to experience this life in its natural habitat, aquaria provide people the opportunity to see the wonders of aquatic life from all over the world, as well as learn of their important conservation and restoration efforts. 

    “Belle Isle Aquarium is not only one of America’s oldest aquaria but also one the country’s most beautiful to experience. This stands to reason, given that the historic building hosts a range of aquatic life from all over the world, giving visitors the chance to not only admire the exhibits but also to learn about both local Great Lakes species and those from further afield.” 

    Methodology

    Tripadvisor reviews for 175 American aquariums were analyzed to determine the prevalence of keywords in their reviews relating to beauty. These keywords were ‘beautiful,’ ‘breathtaking,’ ‘stunning,’ ‘pretty,’ ‘gorgeous,’ ‘cute,’ ‘picturesque,’ and ‘scenic.’ Aquariums were then ranked according to the percentage of reviews that contained any of these keywords. 

    Rank Aquarium Location Total Reviews Beauty Keywords Count Beauty Keyword Percentage 
    1. Belle Isle Aquarium Detroit, Michigan 127 39 30.7% 
    2. Butterfly House & Aquarium Sioux Falls, South Dakota 521 157 30.1% 
    3. Birch Aquarium La Jolla, California 1,956 504 25.8% 
    4. Point Defiance Zoo & Aquarium Tacoma, Washington 1,012 249 24.6% 
    5. Seacoast Science Center Rye, New Hampshire 150 35 23.3% 
    6. VIA Aquarium Schenectady, New York 143 31 21.7% 
    7. Sea Life Park Hawaii Waimanalo, Hawaii 1,533 327 21.3% 
    8. Mississippi Aquarium Gulfport, Mississippi 134 27 20.1% 
    9. Aquarium at the Boardwalk Branson, Missouri 717 144 20.1% 
    10. Cape Cod Museum of Natural History Brewster, Massachusetts 303 60 19.8% 
    11. Long Island Aquarium and Exhibition Center Riverhead, New York 662 122 18.4% 
    12. Moody Gardens Galveston, Texas 2,841 522 18.4% 
    13. Seymour Marine Discovery Center Santa Cruz, California 257 47 18.3% 
    14. Discovery World Milwaukee, Wisconsin 553 96 17.4% 
    15. Waikiki Aquarium Honolulu, Hawaii 1,822 311 17.1% 
    16. Columbus Zoo and Aquarium Columbus, Ohio 2,704 457 16.9% 
    17. Discovery Bay at Minnesota Zoo Apple Valley, Minnesota 841 141 16.8% 
    18. South Carolina Aquarium Charleston, South Carolina 2,429 406 16.7% 
    19. Atlantic City Aquarium Atlantic City, New Jersey 481 79 16.4% 
    20. ECHO, Leahy Center for Lake Champlain Burlington, Vermont 576 93 16.1% 

    Aquariums with fewer than 100 total reviews were omitted from the ranking. 

    Here are other aquariums that missed the list, but are still worth visiting:

    • Georgia aquarium
    • Shedd aquarium
    • Monterey bay aquarium
    • Audubon aquarium
    • National aquarium
    • New England aquarium
    • Oregon Coast aquarium
    • New York Aquarium
    • Seattle Aquarium
    • Tennessee aquarium
    • Florida aquarium
    • Newport aquarium
    • Dallas World Aquarium
    • Mystic Aquarium – Functions as a conservation center to protect aquatic animals

    Why Is Georgia, Sheed, And Monterey Excluded?

    I know I will get this question a lot about this post and study. These three are, without a doubt some of the best aquarium exhibits you can visit in the US. In fact, you can make an argument for the Georgia aquarium being one of the world’s best. However, in this study, I wanted to focus on the smaller aquariums and work on a methodology that would highlight them more. You see these three on EVERY list, so why not work on a method that will highlight many aquariums that are overlooked and are great to visit?

    What’s Your Favorite One?

    Have you visited an aquarium that you are raving about? Let us know in the comments below. We love to hear about your experiences. Maybe we will go visit one of your choices on our tour of aquariums.