Borellii Dwarf Cichlid Care Guide: The Most Peaceful Apisto in the Hobby

Table of Contents

• Key Takeaways
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origin & Natural Habitat
• Appearance & Identification
• Average Size & Lifespan
• Care Guide
• Tank Mates
• Food & Diet
• Breeding & Reproduction
• Common Health Issues
• Common Mistakes to Avoid
• Where to Buy
• Frequently Asked Questions
• Closing Thoughts
• References

If there’s an Apistogramma that deserves to be called easygoing, it’s the Borellii dwarf cichlid. Apistogramma borellii has been in the hobby for over a century, and in that time it’s earned a reputation as one of the quietest, least aggressive, and most adaptable species in the genus. It’s also one of the few apistos that can handle cooler water temperatures, which makes it a genuinely unique option for fishkeepers who don’t run tropical-temperature tanks.

The males are beautiful in an understated way. Rather than the flashy reds and oranges of some apistos, the Borellii male sports a blue-toned body with flowing, elongated fins that earned it the common name “umbrella dwarf cichlid.” It’s not going to win a head-to-head color contest with a fire red Agassiz’s apisto, but the combination of blue iridescence, yellow fin accents, and that calm, inquisitive personality makes it a standout in its own right. This is a fish for the hobbyist who values elegance over flash.

Key Takeaways

• One of the most peaceful apistos. Borellii has a well-deserved reputation as the gentlest species in the genus
• Tolerates cooler temperatures. Unlike most apistos, A. borellii thrives in water as cool as 65°F (18°C), making it suitable for unheated tanks
• True dwarf species. Males rarely exceed 2.5 inches (6.5 cm), making it one of the smallest commonly kept apistos
• Over 100 years in the hobby. First described in 1906, this species has a long track record of captive success
• Excellent for planted community tanks with small, peaceful fish that won’t compete for bottom territory

Species Overview

Field	Details
Scientific Name	Apistogramma borellii
Common Names	Borellii Dwarf Cichlid, Umbrella Dwarf Cichlid, Yellow Dwarf Cichlid, Umbrella Apisto
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	Paraguay River and lower Parana River basins (Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Bolivia)
Care Level	Easy to Moderate
Temperament	Peaceful (mildly territorial when breeding)
Diet	Omnivore (primarily carnivorous)
Tank Level	Bottom to Middle
Maximum Size	2.5 inches (6.5 cm) males; 1.5 inches (4 cm) females
Minimum Tank Size	15 gallons (57 liters)
Temperature	65 to 79°F (18 to 26°C)
pH	5.5 to 7.5
Hardness	3 to 15 dGH
Lifespan	3 to 5 years
Breeding	Cave spawner
Breeding Difficulty	Easy to Moderate
Compatibility	Peaceful community (with appropriate tank mates)
OK for Planted Tanks?	Yes (ideal environment)

Classification

Taxonomic Level	Classification
Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Subfamily	Geophaginae
Genus	Apistogramma
Species	A. borellii (Regan, 1906)

Apistogramma borellii was described by British zoologist Charles Tate Regan in 1906 as Heterogramma borellii, with the species name honoring Italian zoologist Alfredo Borelli who collected the type specimens. This species has had a complicated taxonomic history, having been misidentified under several names including A. ritensis, A. rondoni, and A. reitzigi over the decades. The confusion wasn’t fully resolved until Sven Kullander published a revision in 1983 that confirmed the correct name. Within the genus, A. borellii belongs to the regani lineage group.

Origin & Natural Habitat

The Borellii dwarf cichlid comes from the Paraguay River and lower Parana River basins, spanning southern Brazil, Paraguay, Bolivia, and northern Argentina. This is significantly further south than most other Apistogramma species, which helps explain its unusual tolerance for cooler temperatures. The middle and upper Rio Paraguay system, where these fish are found, experiences more seasonal temperature variation than the stable tropical warmth of the central Amazon.

In the wild, A. borellii inhabits a variety of water types, from clear streams to tannin-stained backwaters. They’re found in slow-moving tributaries and marshy areas with dense vegetation, leaf litter, and soft sandy substrates. The water conditions across their range vary considerably, with pH values recorded anywhere from 5.0 to 8.0 depending on the specific locality. This broad natural tolerance translates to adaptability in captivity.

The fact that A. borellii has been documented in water temperatures as low as 54°F (12°C) in the wild is remarkable for a cichlid. While they’re not coldwater fish in the traditional sense, they can tolerate and even thrive in temperatures well below what would stress most tropical species.

Appearance & Identification

Male Borellii dwarf cichlids have a subtle beauty that grows on you. The body is predominantly blue to blue-gray with iridescent highlights that shimmer under good lighting. The head often shows stronger blue-green iridescence, and the cheeks may display a pattern of spots or vermiculations. The fins are what give this species its “umbrella” common name: the dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins are elongated, particularly in mature males, and they flow back almost to the tail, creating an umbrella-like silhouette when spread.

The fins typically show yellow to golden-yellow coloration, creating a pleasing contrast with the blue body. The “Opal” color strain, which is the most commonly seen variety in the hobby, features red speckles on the face extending from the cheeks to the gill covers, adding another dimension of color to an already attractive fish.

Females are smaller and less colorful, with a brownish to olive body that transforms to a vivid yellow with bold dark markings during breeding, similar to other Apistogramma species.

Male vs. Female

Sexing adult Borellii dwarf cichlids is relatively straightforward thanks to clear size and fin differences.

Feature	Male	Female
Body Size	Up to 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)	Up to 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Fin Length	Elongated dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins (“umbrella” shape)	Short, rounded fins
Coloration	Blue body with yellow fins, possible red face spots	Brownish-olive, turns bright yellow when breeding
Body Shape	More elongated, deeper body	Smaller, more compact
Breeding Color	Intensified blue and yellow	Vivid yellow with bold black markings

Average Size & Lifespan

Borellii is a true dwarf species. Males rarely exceed 2-2.5 inches (5-6.5 cm), and females are even smaller at just 1.5 inches (4 cm) or so. This compact size makes them suitable for smaller tanks than most other cichlids, and it’s part of what makes them so appealing for planted nano and community setups.

Lifespan is 3-5 years in captivity, which is typical for the genus. As with other dwarf cichlids, this shorter lifespan is offset by their willingness to breed. A well-maintained pair or harem can produce multiple generations over the years, giving you a self-sustaining colony that outlasts any individual fish.

Care Guide

Tank Size

A 15-gallon (57-liter) tank can work for a pair or a trio (one male, two females) of Borellii. For a harem setup with additional females or a community with dither fish, 20-30 gallons is more appropriate. As with other apistos, floor space is more important than height. A long, wide tank with ample bottom territory works much better than a tall, narrow one.

If keeping multiple males, a larger tank (40+ gallons) with plenty of visual barriers is necessary to allow each male his own territory. Unlike more aggressive apistos, Borellii males are less likely to fight to the point of injury, but they still need enough space to avoid constant confrontation.

Water Parameters

Parameter	Recommended Range
Temperature	65 to 79°F (18 to 26°C)
pH	5.5 to 7.5
General Hardness	3 to 15 dGH
Ammonia	0 ppm
Nitrite	0 ppm
Nitrate	Below 20 ppm

The temperature range for Borellii is remarkably broad compared to other apistos. While most Apistogramma species need water in the upper 70s to low 80s, Borellii thrives in cooler conditions down to 65°F (18°C). In the wild, they’ve been found in water temperatures as low as the mid-50s°F. This makes them one of the very few cichlids suitable for unheated tanks in temperate climates. That said, temperatures in the low 70s to mid-70s (22-25°C) are the sweet spot for most keeping scenarios.

Water chemistry is similarly flexible. While wild populations have been found in water ranging from pH 5.0 to 8.0, captive-bred fish do best in slightly acidic to neutral conditions. The key is consistency rather than achieving a specific number. Commercially bred Borellii are less demanding about water chemistry than most other apistos, which is a significant advantage for hobbyists with harder tap water.

Filtration & Water Flow

Gentle filtration suits Borellii perfectly. A sponge filter is the go-to choice for smaller setups, providing excellent biological filtration with minimal water movement. In larger tanks, a hang-on-back filter with a pre-filter sponge or a small canister with diffused output works well. Avoid strong current, as these fish inhabit slow-moving or still water in the wild.

Regular water changes of 20-25% weekly maintain water quality without causing parameter swings. Borellii are less sensitive to occasional lapses in maintenance than some other apistos, but consistent care always produces better results.

Lighting

Low to moderate lighting is ideal. The blue iridescence on the body and the yellow fin coloration show best under moderate, slightly warm lighting. Very bright, intense lighting can wash out the subtle colors and make the fish feel exposed. Floating plants provide natural shade at the substrate level where these fish live, and the dappled light through floating vegetation creates a beautiful visual effect that also benefits the fish’s comfort.

Plants & Decorations

Borellii dwarf cichlids are perfect planted tank residents. They won’t eat or uproot plants, and a densely planted tank provides exactly the kind of cover and visual barriers they need. Java fern, anubias, cryptocorynes, mosses, and floating plants all work beautifully. Dense foliage creates the broken lines of sight that minimize aggression and make each fish feel secure in its own territory.

Caves and hiding spots are essential, especially for breeding. Coconut shell halves, small terracotta pots, commercially available ceramic caves, and natural rock crevices all serve as spawning sites and refuges. Indian almond leaves and other botanicals on the substrate provide both cover and tannins that benefit water chemistry. Each female needs access to at least one cave.

Substrate

Fine sand is the preferred substrate. Borellii spend much of their time on or near the bottom, and sand provides a natural, comfortable surface for resting and foraging. They’ll occasionally sift through the sand looking for small food particles, which is an entertaining behavior to watch. A dark-colored sand enhances the contrast with the fish’s blue and yellow coloration.

Tank Mates

Borellii’s peaceful nature makes it one of the most community-friendly apistos available. They’re less likely to start trouble with tank mates than most other dwarf cichlids, though females guarding fry will still chase away intruders from their immediate territory.

Best Tank Mates

• Rummy-nose tetras – Excellent dither fish that stay in mid-water and help Borellii feel secure
• Cardinal tetras – Classic companions for soft-water dwarf cichlid setups
• Ember tetras – Tiny, peaceful, and ideal for smaller Borellii setups
• Pencilfish (Nannostomus spp.) – Upper-water dwellers that share soft-water preferences
• Otocinclus – Small, peaceful algae eaters that stay out of the way
• Small corydoras (pygmy, habrosus) – Bottom companions that don’t compete aggressively for space
• Hatchetfish – Surface-dwelling fish that completely avoid the apisto’s territory

Tank Mates to Avoid

• Fin-nipping tetras – Neons and some other small tetras have been known to nip the Borellii’s flowing dorsal and anal fins
• Aggressive cichlids – Even other apistos may bully the relatively passive Borellii in small tanks
• Large or boisterous fish – Anything that dominates the bottom territory or causes stress
• Dwarf shrimp – Will be hunted. Even the peaceful Borellii is an efficient shrimp predator

Food & Diet

Borellii dwarf cichlids are omnivorous with a strong carnivorous preference. High-quality micro pellets or crushed flake food can serve as a staple, but the diet should be supplemented regularly with frozen and live foods for optimal health and coloration. Frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia, and cyclops are all eagerly accepted.

Live foods like baby brine shrimp, microworms, grindal worms, and daphnia bring out the best coloration and condition, and are especially important for breeding preparation. Feed small amounts 2-3 times daily. These are tiny fish with small stomachs, so frequent, modest meals are far better than one large feeding. Make sure food reaches the bottom where these fish feed, especially in community tanks where mid-water species may intercept food before it sinks.

Breeding & Reproduction

Breeding Difficulty

Easy to moderate. Borellii is one of the more straightforward apistos to breed. Given a well-structured tank with caves, good water quality, and adequate nutrition, they’ll often spawn without any special preparation. The species usually does best bred in pairs rather than harems, which sets it slightly apart from some other Apistogramma species.

Spawning Tank Setup

A 15-20 gallon tank with sand substrate, multiple caves, leaf litter, and a sponge filter provides an ideal breeding setup. Provide 2-3 cave options so the female can choose her preferred site. Coconut shells with a small entrance hole are classic and effective. Add Indian almond leaves for natural tannins and additional cover. Dense planting helps create separate territories.

Water Conditions for Breeding

Slightly soft, acidic water (pH 6.0-6.5, GH 3-6) at 72-77°F (22-25°C) creates good breeding conditions. The slightly cooler temperature preference of this species compared to other apistos means you don’t need to push temperatures into the upper 70s for breeding. Clean water with low nitrates is the most important factor. Regular water changes with slightly cooler water can sometimes trigger spawning.

Conditioning & Spawning

Condition the pair with live and frozen foods for 1-2 weeks. When the female is ready, she turns bright yellow with bold dark markings and begins spending more time near her chosen cave. The courtship involves the female displaying her yellow breeding colors to the male and leading him toward the cave. She deposits eggs on the ceiling of the cave, typically 50-70 eggs, and the male enters briefly to fertilize them.

Egg & Fry Care

The female takes primary responsibility for egg and fry care. She fans the eggs, removes any that develop fungus, and guards the cave entrance aggressively. In smaller tanks, she may become highly aggressive toward the male during this period, so be prepared to separate them if necessary.

Eggs hatch in 2-4 days, and the fry become free-swimming approximately 5-7 days after hatching. The mother continues to guard and herd the free-swimming fry, signaling them to return to the cave when threatened. First foods should include infusoria and vinegar eels, progressing to freshly hatched baby brine shrimp within a few days. The fry are small but grow steadily with frequent feeding and clean water.

Common Health Issues

Bacterial Infections

Poor water quality or stress can lead to bacterial infections presenting as fin erosion, body sores, or cloudy eyes. Prevention through consistent water quality is the best approach. Treatment with broad-spectrum antibiotics is typically effective. The elongated fins of male Borellii make early signs of fin rot more visible, which is actually helpful for early detection.

Ich (White Spot Disease)

Ich can strike after stress events like shipping or temperature fluctuations. Treatment involves gradually raising the temperature to 82°F (28°C) and using a commercial ich medication. Borellii tolerate standard ich treatments well. Since this species prefers cooler water, watch for ich particularly when temperatures drop below their comfort range during seasonal changes.

Internal Parasites

White, stringy feces and gradual weight loss suggest internal parasites. More common in wild-caught specimens but possible in any fish. Metronidazole treats protozoan parasites, while praziquantel targets worms. Quarantine all new fish for at least two weeks before adding to an established tank.

Fin Damage from Nipping

The flowing dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins of male Borellii make them targets for fin-nipping tank mates. Even typically peaceful fish like neon tetras have been reported to nip at Borellii’s long fins. Choose tank mates carefully and watch for signs of persistent fin damage. Damaged fins can regrow in clean water, but chronic nipping causes stress that leads to other health problems.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Keeping the water too warm. Unlike most apistos, Borellii actually prefers cooler temperatures. Running the heater at 80°F+ stresses them. Aim for 72-76°F (22-24°C) for general keeping
• Not providing enough caves. Even this peaceful species needs caves for spawning and security. Without proper cover, they remain stressed and hide constantly
• Keeping with fin nippers. The flowing fins are tempting targets. Watch for nipping behavior from any tank mates, even those considered “peaceful”
• Overcrowding the bottom level. Borellii are bottom dwellers that need personal space. Too many fish competing for floor territory creates chronic stress
• Neglecting the female during breeding. A brooding female stops eating and becomes highly aggressive. Make sure she was well-conditioned before spawning, and don’t disturb her territory
• Feeding only dry foods. While Borellii accept prepared foods more readily than some apistos, a diet without frozen or live foods leads to faded color and reduced vitality

Where to Buy

Borellii dwarf cichlids are fairly available through online retailers and specialty shops, though they’re not as commonly stocked as cockatoo apistos. The “Opal” color variety is the most frequently offered form. Flip Aquatics carries dwarf cichlids and is a good source to check for Borellii availability, and Dan’s Fish is another reliable option for healthy, well-conditioned specimens with live arrival guarantees.

When buying Borellii, look for active fish with good body condition, intact flowing fins (especially in males), and alert behavior. Avoid fish with sunken bellies, clamped fins, or visible signs of disease. If possible, buy a pair or a trio (one male, two females) that have been housed together. Sexing is straightforward in adult fish, so selecting the right group should be simple.

Frequently Asked Questions

Is the Borellii dwarf cichlid good for beginners?

It’s one of the best apistos for those new to dwarf cichlids. The Borellii is more forgiving of water chemistry variations than most other Apistogramma species, and its peaceful temperament reduces the risk of aggression-related problems. Some experience with basic tropical fishkeeping is still recommended, but among apistos, this is one of the most accessible options available.

Do Borellii dwarf cichlids need a heater?

It depends on your room temperature. Borellii thrive in water as cool as 65°F (18°C), which is lower than most homes drop to even in winter. If your home stays above 65°F consistently, you may not need a heater at all. In cooler environments, a low-wattage heater set to 72°F (22°C) provides stability. This tolerance for cooler water is one of the species’ most distinctive features.

Should I keep pairs or harems?

Borellii usually do best in pairs, which is slightly unusual for an Apistogramma species. While harem setups with one male and 2-3 females can work in larger tanks, paired breeding is generally more successful with Borellii. If keeping multiple males, ensure the tank is large enough (40+ gallons) with distinct territories for each.

What color varieties are available?

The most common variety in the hobby is the “Opal” form, which features red speckles on the face and gill covers against a predominantly blue body with yellow fins. Wild-type Borellii tend to show more uniform blue-gray coloration. Both forms have the same care requirements. The color intensifies with good care, proper diet, and when the fish is in comfortable conditions.

Can I keep Borellii with other Apistogramma species?

In larger tanks (40+ gallons) with dense structure and distinct territories, some fishkeepers successfully maintain Borellii alongside other peaceful apisto species. However, there’s always risk of hybridization and territorial conflict. The Borellii’s peaceful nature means it may be outcompeted by more aggressive species. Species-only setups or single-apisto-species communities generally produce the best results.

Why is it called the umbrella dwarf cichlid?

The name comes from the elongated dorsal fin of the male, which when fully extended can spread out and fold back like an umbrella. The dorsal, pelvic, and anal fins of mature males are notably longer than in most other apisto species, creating a flowing, sail-like display when the fish spreads them during courtship or territorial interactions.

Closing Thoughts

The Borellii dwarf cichlid is proof that you don’t need aggression and extreme color to create a compelling fish. Its quiet elegance, peaceful disposition, and unusual tolerance for cooler water make it one of the most versatile and rewarding dwarf cichlids in the hobby. In a world of apistos competing to be the most colorful or the most dramatic, the Borellii wins on charm and ease of care.

Set up a planted tank with soft water, sandy substrate, plenty of caves, and some leaf litter. Keep the temperature comfortable rather than tropical. Add a pair and some cardinal tetras or pencilfish as companions. Feed a varied diet with regular frozen foods. The result is a peaceful, beautiful aquarium centered around one of the hobby’s most endearing dwarf cichlids, one that’s been quietly winning fans for over a hundred years.

This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

References

• Seriously Fish – Apistogramma borellii species profile. seriouslyfish.com
• FishBase – Apistogramma borellii (Regan, 1906). fishbase.se
• Practical Fishkeeping – Apistogramma borellii care guide. practicalfishkeeping.co.uk
• The Aquarium Wiki – Apistogramma borellii. theaquariumwiki.com