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  • GloFish With Betta: Why It Almost Never Works (And the One Exception I’d Try)

    GloFish With Betta: Why It Almost Never Works (And the One Exception I’d Try)

    GloFish and bettas in the same tank works sometimes and fails spectacularly other times. It depends entirely on the betta temperament and the GloFish species.

    Some bettas ignore GloFish. Some attack them relentlessly. You will not know which you have until you try.

    Key Takeaways

    • The only GloFish that is compatible with a betta are GloFish cories.
    • Bettas have particular requirements that do not mix well with other GloFish, like tank size, aggression, and overall compatibility.
    • Many GloFish, like tetras, are known nippers and are ill-suited for a slow-moving, long-finned betta.
    • Another alternative to getting an entirely new fish species is getting a GloFish betta instead!

    The Quick Answer – Glofish With Bettas Don’t Work

    The answer is mostly no. Many of the GloFish species available are incompatible with betta fish due to overactivity, aggression, or other behaviors that we will go over in this post. That being said, the GloFish corydoras are one of the most successful pairings.

    What Are GloFish?

    If you’ve ever gone to your local fish store, you might’ve seen blacked-out tanks with various fluorescent pink, yellow, orange, blue, and red fish. These are often different tetra, danio, barb, shark, and cory catfish species. You might find yourself asking what these fish are, whether or not they are safe to keep, and if they is kept with your other community fish.

    Glo-Fish

    GloFish are genetically modified fish that have been fundamentally altered to express their trademarked bright colors. Contrary to popular belief, GloFish are not injected with artificial dyes and do not have genetic defects, though consumers should be wary of off-market fakes.

    Instead, GloFish DNA has been altered to express certain colorful traits that get passed down from one generation to the next, meaning that their colors will never fade. It should be noted that breeding GloFish is trademarked and should not be intentionally tried in the aquarium setting.

    In general, GloFish are no more or less ‘safe’ to keep than the wild-type variety of the given species., bright individuals are just as hardy and adaptable as their regular-colored counterparts. There is a lot of discussion about the ethics of GloFish and what their adaptation could mean for the future of fishkeeping.

    GloFish can safely be kept with a variety of tropical fish species. However, this isn’t done as they require special lighting, like a black light, for best viewing, which isn’t always best for other species. Because of this, many hobbyists set up a GloFish-only tank with a variety of compatible species.

    Things To Consider

    Pairing any fish with a male or female betta is tricky. These are individualistic fish with varying temperaments. Whether or not your betta fish is kept with other fish will depend solely on the personality of your fish.

    There are a few ways to increase the likelihood of success, though.

    Water Temperature

    Betta fish enjoy a stable water temperature between 78 to 80° F. Most tropical fish options fall within this range, but some popular GloFish options, like zebra danios, do not.

    Aquarium Size

    No, betta fish cannot live in a bowl with GloFish. In fact, bettas should never be kept in anything smaller than a 5 gallon fish tank, with 3 gallons being regarded as the absolute minimum.

    While a single male or female betta fish is happy in a small tank, any addition of a tank mate will call for a larger tank due to the betta fish’s natural aggression and territorial behavior.

    Unfortunately, most GloFish varieties grow to be over 2 inches big and often need to be in a group, so a minimal 20 gallon aquarium is necessary to prevent territories from overlapping.

    Temperament

    In addition to tank size, temperaments will be the determining factor as to whether or not your betta fish will get along with other fish species. Male and female bettas, also known as Siamese fighting fish, are naturally aggressive fish as they try to protect their territories. They are willing to attack and sometimes kill intruders, especially if they have vibrant colors.

    On top of aggression, overactivity is a problem for slower-moving bettas. Many of the GloFish species available are active swimmers, which can easily outcompete a long-finned male betta, especially during feeding times.

    ⚠️ Biggest Mistake: The most common error I see is people not knowing the original species behind the GloFish they’re buying. GloFish Danios are one of the worst choices. Danios are naturally fast, relentlessly active schoolers, and that constant darting motion stresses bettas out significantly. Many other GloFish varieties come from semi-aggressive base species with zero natural compatibility with bettas. Always look up the base species before adding anything to a betta tank.

    The ideal temperament match would be a relatively docile betta with other shy but present fish.

    Competition

    All in all, a betta fish pairing is based on compatibility and competition. Water parameters must match and temperaments should align for different species to live in the same tank.

    Though you might want your fish to interact together in the fish tank, it’s actually more ideal if they completely ignore each other.

    Why Cories Work

    Corydoras are one of the most popular freshwater fish available, with many different species coming in all shapes and sizes. These fish range anywhere from under an inch long to some reaching almost 5 inches.

    GloFish cories are derived from the bronze or green cory, Corydoras aeneus, which are arguably the most popular species available. Bronze cories grow to be about 2.5 inches long. They need a 20 gallon aquarium as they are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Corydoras are most active at the bottom of the aquarium, so a longer aquarium is better than a taller one.

    Betta fish are known for their aggression and low-level activity. Any other fish that enters their territory, has similar coloration, or otherwise disrupts their natural float-through-life attitude can greatly stress them out. This is why GloFish cories can make great tank mates for bettas!

    Corydoras are peaceful fish that stick with their schools at the bottom of the aquarium. This leaves a ton of space in between your betta fish, who likes to live in the upper portions of the aquarium, and your bottom-dwellers. However, this pairing cannot be kept in a regular 5 gallon tank meant for a solitary betta.

    🏆 Mark’s Take: Cories are the rare GloFish exception that actually makes sense with a betta. They’re peaceful, they school at the bottom of the tank, and bettas naturally claim the top and middle. So they occupy completely different zones without ever needing to interact. I’ve seen this work well because neither fish has a reason to bother the other. Just make sure you have at least a 20 gallon tank and a group of 6+ cories so they feel secure enough to stay calm.

    Instead, a GloFish betta pairing will require at least a 20 gallon long tank with a 30 gallon increasing the chances of the two species living peacefully. Adding a soft substrate along with lots of plants and structures will also keep your corydoras interested and sheltered while also giving your betta surfaces to rest and explore, which will help keep these two worlds separate.

    With the right setup, GloFish cories and male or female bettas can live peacefully together in the same tank.

    Why These Others Do Not Work

    But what if corydoras aren’t your first choice for a GloFish-betta tank setup? Like any other fish pairing, there are reasons why some species get along and others don’t.

    While it is tempting to try adding one of the species below, there are many reasons why these tank mates are less common or just won’t work in the long term.

    Pristella Tetras

    GloFish tetras are a modification of the pristella tetra (Pristella maxillaris). These are big, middle-water-column swimming fish that are active and come in a lot of bright colors. Right off the bat, all three of these considerations are reasons why these GloFish tetras are not compatible tank mates.

    As mentioned before, bettas live in the upper portions of the aquarium. Though not active swimmers, they like to have a wide array of surfaces available for resting, when they want it. GloFish are active loose schooling fish that will happily spread out across the middle and upper layers of the water column, leaving a betta fish to hide or become overly aggressive. Bettas might also flare at and attack timid GloFish due to their bright colors.

    Another important aspect to consider is feeding time. GloFish tetras is hasty feeders that can easily outcompete a slower-swimming betta. Even if you were somehow able to happily house both of these species together, special attention would need to be given to ensure that both fish were getting enough to eat.

    Long Fin Tetras

    Longfin Tetras
    Longfin Tetras

    Longfin Tetras are a variety of blackskirt tetra. Available in several colors. Don’t house with nippy fish

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    GloFish long fin tetras are another popular option of bright-colored fish, but an even worse option than pristella tetras! These GloFish are altered black skirt tetras (Gymnocorymbus ternetzi). They have long-flowing fins that become a target for both each other and for bettas.

    For the most part, long fin tetras have the same behavior as pristella tetras. At first, long fins might even seem more relaxed, but don’t be fooled. These fish are known fin-nippers and will go after each other and slow-moving species. This makes bettas a prime target for harassment. Even if you luck out and get a docile school of GloFish tetras, a betta fish might try to nip at their fins instead.

    Danios

    Danios
    Danios

    Danios are the original fish that started it all. Great dither fish. Gets along with many fish. Should be housed in at minimum 10 gallons and in a group

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    Danios are some of the best beginner fish, but there is little to no compatibility between them and bettas.

    GloFish danios are a type of Danio rerio. These fish originate from fast-flowing, coldwater environments where they like to swim against the current at the surface of the water. These water conditions need to be matched in the aquarium setting. That means a lower water temperature, moderate water flow, and plenty of room to zigzag around.

    As you can see, these conditions directly contrast those required for bettas. Even if you were able to acclimate GloFish danios to similar water conditions needed by betta fish, there is still a huge difference between activity levels. Simply put, these neon zebra danios require different water parameters and are too active to safely be kept with bettas.

    Barbs

    Tiger Barb
    Tiger Barb

    Tiger barbs are one of the more aggressive fish available. Should kept in groups of 12 to curb aggression. Should not be housed with fish with long fins.

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    GloFish barbs are one of the coolest-looking GloFish species due to the contrast created by their black vertical bars. These are tiger barbs (Puntius tetrazona), a long-term favorite in the aquarium hobby. However, these are often misunderstood fish even though they’re one of the top beginner choices.

    Tiger barbs were long sold as a community fish. While there are ways to increase the chances of tiger barbs living harmoniously with other peaceful species, like by keeping them in a large tank with plenty of schoolmates, these needs are often not met. This can lead to frenzy-like behavior that confuses and stresses out other fish. They are also notorious fin nippers.

    Because of their high potential to be semi-aggressive, GloFish barbs are not compatible tank mates for bettas.

    Sharks

    A common tank mate for barbs but not for bettas are sharks. Most often, rainbow sharks (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) are altered for GloFish gene expression.

    These are relatively large fish that can grow up to 6 inches long. They are not schooling fish and only one is safely kept per every 55 gallons.

    While GloFish sharks stay at the bottom of the tank like corydoras, they are very territorial and will chase away any fish that tries to stay in the bottom portions of the aquarium. This, in addition to their need for a larger aquarium, makes them impractical to keep with male or female bettas.

    Other Fish To Consider

    While many of the GloFish species available aren’t compatible with bettas, there are many traditional tropical fish that can fill the space instead.

    Neon Tetras

    Neon Tetra
    Neon Tetra

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    One of the most popular freshwater community schooling fish available in the aquarium trade. Great neon blue colors!

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    The neon tetra is one of the most popular freshwater fish, period. These are small schooling fish that can comfortably fit in a 10 gallon aquarium alongside a betta fish as long as there are plenty of hiding places.

    Chili Rasboras

    Chili Rasboras
    Chili Rasboras

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    A great nano schooling fish. Males display brighter colors. Best in groups of 6 or more

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    These are very tiny fish that is bullied by a more assertive betta. Chili rasboras only grow to be about an inch long and prefer to stay toward the upper portions of the water column. If you plan on keeping a school of rasboras with a betta, the betta should be slightly more tolerant of an active fish that swims at the surface.

    Ember Tetras

    Ember Tetra
    Ember Tetra

    A small red tetra that grows up to 1.25 inches. A very peaceful schooling fish

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    Ember tetras are similar to neon tetras and should be compatible with most friendly female or male bettas. One benefit to ember tetras is that they’re slightly smaller than neons, which means that you will fit more in a tank.

    GloFish Bettas

    If you want to skip tank mates altogether, then GloFish bettas have grown in popularity over the past couple of years. GloFish produces these fish, but they only come in a bright neon yellow for right now. They have the same care requirements as regular Betta splendens, but glow in the dark!

    Does keeping a GloFish betta mean that you can keep a bigger variety of GloFish species?

    Unfortunately, no. GloFish bettas are regular bettas, just with altered genes. They still need special consideration regarding tank size and aggression. However, it is possible to keep a GloFish betta and a school of GloFish corydoras together.

    Important Note: Glofish Bettas are no longer available at retail stores as Glofish stopped selling the fish. Your best option is to purchase one from a fellow hobbyist.

    Conclusion

    GloFish are genetically modified fish that can make good tank mates for betta fish, especially neon corydoras. Like any other fish pairing, tank size, aggression, and overall compatibility still need to be considered whenever trying to keep a different species with bettas., GloFish corydoras are the most successful as they are peaceful, stay at the bottom of the tank, and don’t outcompete bettas during feeding times.

  • Here Are The Top 12 Smallest Goldfish (With Pictures!)

    Here Are The Top 12 Smallest Goldfish (With Pictures!)

    Not all goldfish get huge. that’s one of the biggest misconceptions in the hobby. After keeping multiple goldfish varieties over the years, I can tell you there are breeds that stay compact enough for a 20-30 gallon tank without compromising their health. These are the 12 smallest varieties worth considering.

    If you’re in search of the smallest goldfish for your compact tank, you’ve come to the right place. This article lists the top breeds that don’t just fit in. they thrive in smaller aquatic environments. Get ready to explore options that celebrate size in small packages, tailored for limited spaces.

    Key Takeaways

    • The smallest goldfish varieties, like Pompon or Bubble Eye goldfish, are ideal for medium sized tanks, offering a diverse range of colors, shapes, and need specific care for their vibrant looks and delicate health
    • Even though considered small for their species, all goldfish require ample space (at least 20 gallons per fish), high water quality, a stable temperature, and it have peaceful, slow-moving tank mates.
    • Goldfish care involves more than just feeding; they require regular water changes, a good filtration system, and a tank free from sharp objects that can harm their unique features.

    Top 12 Smallest Goldfish Breeds

    While most types of goldfish are admittedly large and more suited for larger aquariums, these fish listed on this list are some of the smallest breeds you can find.

    Note that there is not a smaller breed listed for slim-bodied goldfish. Slim-bodied goldfish do get longer than the fancy varieties and have larger tank requirements. Stick to fancy breeds if you have a smaller tank or plan to keep your fish in an aquariums versus a pond. Slim-bodied goldfish make excellent choices for ponds either on their own or with Koi fish.

    1. Pom Pom

    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 4. 6 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Ball-shaped nasal growth

    The Pompom Goldfish is certainly a peculiar sight with their adorable ball-like growths on top of their nose. Given their delicate nasal septas, you should make sure that they are kept away from any kind of danger and sharp objects that may harm them.

    These friendly creatures prefer to be around companions so it’s best if multiple goldfish live together as swimming in groups encourages their activity levels.

    2. Bubble Eye

    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 3. 5 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Huge bubble eyes

    Introducing the Bubble Eye Goldfish, a captivating breed that stands out for its peculiar physical characteristics. This type of goldfish can be up to five inches long and their hues range from solid red to fascinating two-tone combinations – giving your aquarium an eye-catching splash of color! They also have bubble sacs located below their eyes adding more uniqueness.

    It is important to note that Bubble Eyes need extra care in order for them to stay healthy since they are quite fragile creatures. Make sure you provide everything these fish require so as not neglecting any vital aspect in terms of nourishment and water quality if you want them swimming around with vigor all year round!

    3. Pearlscale

    Pearscale-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: Up to 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Golfball-shaped body, with prominent domed scales

    Pearlscale Goldfish is a fantastic pick for aspiring goldfish hobbyists. These gentle fish are known for their signature pearl-like scale patterns and can grow up to can average of 4 – 5 inches in size. As one of the delicate fancy varieties, these beautiful creatures require special care when it comes to water conditions inside an aquarium if you want them to thrive.

    Their scales create a golfball like texture. The breed can also include single or double tails.

    4. Celestial Eye

    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 5. 6 inches
    • Color Pattern: Orange, white, or orange and white
    • Unique Traits: Upward-facing eyes and no dorsal fin

    The Celestial Eye Goldfish is quite the handful when it comes to upkeep, their eyes point upwards and require dim illumination for protection from damage. Their environment should have excellent water quality at all times, as they are a delicate species and don’t fare well in unstable atmospheres.

    Having peaceful tank mates will ensure that your pet has minimal stress. Not only do these fish offer an intriguing look, but can really set off any aquarium design you may create with them around! They are best housed in environments with lots of open space and smooth decor, like silk artificial plants, as their eyes are easily injured.

    5. Veiltail

    Veiltail-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 8. 12 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Extra-long tail with square edge and sail-like dorsal fin

    Beauty and elegance are embodied in a Veiltail Goldfish, renowned for its flowing fins. There are an American created breed, first introduced to the aquarium trade in the 1890s.

    This would be considered one of the hardier varieties of fancies you can purchase. It’s also one of the originals given how long it has been breed. It is the largest goldfish on this list, but has been know to live in smaller environments and live a very long time.

    6. Butterfly

    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 5. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Butterfly-shaped double tail and telescope eyes

    Desired by goldfish aficionados, butterfly tail goldfish are a small type of fish that can bring natural beauty into your home if they receive the correct care.

    With their spectacular tails resembling those of butterflies, these little creatures come in a variety of patterns, including calico. They come with a high dorsal fin and will also have telescope eyes. It’s one of the more unique looking breeds out there.

    7. Eggfish

    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Egg-shaped body

    A special breed of fancy goldfish, the Eggfish Goldfish has an oblong shape with no dorsal fin and is considered a luxury item. These peaceful fish should be kept in tanks alongside slower-moving tankmates. Despite their costliness, these beautiful creatures are sure to bring delight to any aquarium they grace!

    8. Ranchu

    Ranchu-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Lack of dorsal fin and highly arched and rounded body

    Ranchu Goldfish are highly valued and resilient despite their delicate nature. Adaptable to a variety of tankmates in clean water conditions, they make for ideal aquatic companions if kept in smaller aquariums. Noted for its rounded back and large head with fleshy features, the Ranchu Goldfish is an attractive addition to any home setup.

    9. Lionhead Goldfish

    Lionhead-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Known for its pronounced “wen” or head growth that covers the top of the head and gill plates

    The Lionhead Goldfish is a type of small fish distinguished by its exceptional raspberry-like protrusion atop the head. They are an interesting novelty to have in your aquarium, but not recommended for inexperienced aquarists since they require special care and attention.

    These particular goldfish guarantee to draw interest when guests come over, who can resist such unique creatures?

    10. Telescope Goldfish

    Black-moor-goldfish in aquarium
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Large protruding eyes that resemble telescopes

    The Telescope Goldfish, related to its comet goldfish family, is a resilient and adaptive small breed with big eyes that need extra attention. If you’re looking for something new in your petite aquarium tank setup then the hardy telescope goldfish might be just what you’re after! One thing to note is that they are one of the more delicate goldfish varieties due to their sensitive eyes.

    11. Fantail Goldfish

    Fantail-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Split caudal or tail fin that forms its fan shape

    Featuring a distinct, beautiful forked tail and round shape, the Fancy Tail Goldfish is sure to bring life and energy into any aquarium. Their sociability enables them to not only coexist with other fish, but thrive in their presence as well! Fantail Goldfish can be caught. Be kept on their own or even within groups of tankmates. making these lively creatures an ideal addition no matter what type of setup you choose.

    12. Oranda Goldfish

    Oranda-Goldfish
    • Goldfish Type: Fancy
    • Adult Size: 6. 8 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various
    • Unique Traits: Known for its wen that covers the head. Body is deep and rounded similar to a Ryukin

    Finally, the Oranda Goldfish is a fragile breed which has a protrusion on its head. Their tanks must be managed properly and they need compatible fish mates to stay healthy. As such, adding this ornate species to your little aquarium will undoubtedly give it sophistication.

    Other Considerations

    While these goldfish breed didn’t make the list, you can definitely consider them:

    • Celestial goldfish
    • Ryukin goldfish
    • Tosakin goldfish
    • Shubunkin goldfish (for outdoor ponds)

    Understanding Their Characteristics

    When diving into the depths of tiny goldfish breeds, it’s like unearthing a trove of dazzling colors and captivating shapes. Among these aquatic jewels are two varieties. Slim-bodied and Fancy goldfish. known for their compatibility with small aquariums as well as distinct characteristics that make them stand out from other fish in this environment.

    Gallery-Of-Gold-fish

    From body shape to swimming habits, each breed has its own needs when being cared for. Yet all share attributes such as size appropriateness for aquaria, making it possible to appreciate different traits across multiple kinds of small goldfish breeds without taking up too much space!

    Size And Growth Potential

    The amazing thing about small goldfish breeds is their size and potential to grow. In spite of being so tiny for a goldfish they still get large for a freshwater fish.

    Their growth depends on tank maintenance, food quality and water conditions: thus providing an appropriate habitat is essential for these little fellows’ flourishing. Unfortunately enough, if those mini fish are held in confined aquariums, this could potentially stunt their development rate.

    Appearance And Color Patterns

    Goldfish breeds, especially those of small sizes, can be captivating in their diversity. Each has its own characteristics like the Celestial Goldfish’s pointed eyes and tall head growth on an Oranda, long fins with a Veiltail breed, or delicate Bubble Eye goldfish pouches. All these features make them interesting to watch and visually appealing.

    In terms of coloration, we are presented with spectacles from metallic red to bright yellow as well as a range that goes from solid through calico patterns along all goldfish species, including Bubble Eyes, which stand out among other members of this family.

    Small goldfish have managed to maintain variety between each type due exclusively to their uniqueness when compared not only within different individual breeds but also throughout many varieties, showcasing multiple nuances that make them desirable for aquariums around the world!

    Care Requirements

    Small goldfish breeds demand more than just an aquarium and some food. Special attention is required for them to be healthy and grow properly. The quality of their living environment is essential in this matter. They must have at least 20 gallons of water, regular replacement with fresh treated H2O, a reliable filter system, and a suitable temperature (between 60°F. 70°F).

    Diet-wise, they should alternate between live foods, pellets plus flakes so that their health stays optimal alongside their spirits lifted, Common Goldfish might seem common but tending to these fish calls for exceptional care measures!

    Tank Setup and Maintenance

    Keep small goldfish breeds healthy and happy requires special care when setting up and managing their tank. From sizing the aquarium to maintaining water quality, there is a lot of planning involved in creating an ideal environment for your little fish friends.

    Your setup should include selecting proper filtration systems and decorations that won’t harm delicate creatures or cause potential dangers within the confines of your pet’s home. It’s important to monitor levels such as pH regularly throughout all stages of maintenance and adjustment – not just during setup!

    Tank Size Recommendations

    It’s best to provide a 20-30 gallon tank for your small goldfish, as this allows them ample room in which to swim and prevents overcrowding issues that could cause distress or illness. While you may initially think 10 gallons is sufficient, the larger size will prove more beneficial for their well being.

    Water Conditions And Filtration

    Caring for small goldfish means regularly checking water pH and ammonia levels, along with making sure that the temperature is in range of 68° to 74°F. A reliable filter system should also be used to keep pollutants from accumulating and consequently harming aquatic life. Maintaining a balanced environment within these parameters helps ensure that your pet stays healthy throughout its lifetime.

    Decoration And Hiding Places

    Creating an environment conducive to your small goldfish’s health requires more than just decorations. Offering secure and suitable hiding spots and selecting pleasing décor for the tank can make a world of difference for your little fish.

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    Including plants, rocks or maybe some fun accessories will not only give the aquarium an attractive look, but also be essential in creating a healthy habitat that is stimulating and comfortable for its inhabitant.

    Choosing Compatible Tank Mates

    When deciding on which tank mates to house with your small goldfish, it is as important as the size of the aquarium and monitoring water quality. Though these mini fish seem uncomplicated, choosing an inappropriate partner can cause distress and even lead to death. The following tips should help you select suitable companions for your little swimmers.

    Peaceful And Slow Swimming Fish

    When caring for small goldfish, it is wise to choose peaceful and slower-moving tank mates. These fish are not likely to fight with the Goldfish over food or space in the aquarium, making a healthy aquatic environment.

    Good companions include:

    All these species can live harmoniously together in one ecosystem when they meet basic requirements such as proper dieting and water parameters of pH level maintenance.

    Avoiding Aggressive Companions

    It is of the utmost importance to stay away from fish which display aggressive or quickly moving behaviour, as this could cause distress and injury for your small goldfish. Certain species like:

    With Betta Fish, the goldfish will actually harass and possibility even eat the Betta!

    Monitoring And Adjusting Tank Dynamics

    Goldfish are generally messy creatures and are hard on your bioload. Because of this, it’s important to monitor your tank parameters such as ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates.

    Other things to watch out for are pH and temperature. You can monitor your temperature with a thermometer or use an aquarium controller to keep your temperature stable. You can also use test kits to monitor the other parameters in your tank.

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    Summary

    While still large compared to other tropical fish available, it is possible to find smaller goldfish that you can place in a reasonably sized aquarium. If you want to keep a smaller tank, it is usually a better idea to opt for small fish instead. Either way, I have some FAQs to help you out on your journey.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is there a dwarf goldfish?

    A specific type of small-sized goldfish, Carassius praecipuus, native to central Laos, has recently been identified. This species can be distinguished by its diminutive size. With other varieties of the same fish.

    What is the smallest size goldfish tank?

    For the best possible environment for goldfish, it is recommended to obtain a 20-gallon tank at minimum. As they grow in size and number, you may need an even bigger aquarium such as one that holds 50 gallons of water or more, up to 100 gallon tanks are available.

    It’s important not to overlook how ammonia buildup can stress out fish living conditions. Hence, offering them enough space where they can thrive comfortably should be taken into consideration when setting up their home.

    What is the lifespan of a mini goldfish?

    Given the right environment, such as a pond or aquarium, mini goldfish have a potential lifespan of up to 20 years. If kept in an undersized bowl, their life expectancy is drastically reduced – usually only lasting 3-9 months due to poor water quality and space limitations.

    Can you buy small goldfish?

    You can purchase small goldfish from pet shops at different costs, with rarer species coming with a greater price tag. Prices of these fish may range anywhere between $5 and $100.

    How big do small goldfish usually get?

    Small goldfish breeds usually remain on the small side, typically reaching a size of 2-6 inches. Among them, Pompon Goldfish are especially miniature at an average length of only 5 inches. Consequently, they don’t get very big in general.

  • Fish In Cycling: The Emergency Guide I’ve Walked Countless Customers Through

    Fish In Cycling: The Emergency Guide I’ve Walked Countless Customers Through

    Over the years, I’ve had countless customers reach out to me in a panic. fish dying, tank cloudy, water parameters all over the place. Most of the time, they’d skipped cycling or didn’t even know what it was. Fish-in cycling is the method you use when there’s no other choice and livestock is already in the tank. It’s not ideal, but it’s survivable if you know what you’re doing. Here’s exactly what I walk people through when they find themselves in this situation.

    Key Takeaways

    • Adding fish to a new aquarium is never recommended, but you should know what to do in case it happens to you.
    • Fish-in cycles are dangerous due to ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate that are left unprocessed because beneficial bacteria aren’t present in the aquarium yet.
    • Regularly testing water parameters, daily water changes, limited feedings, adding fish slowly, adding plants, and dosing bacteria can all help in reducing the negative effects of a fish-in cycle.

    The Aquarium Cycle

    The aquarium nitrogen cycle is a complicated process in which bacteria grow and populate an aquatic system to sustain life. Bacteria take toxic ammonia and nitrite levels and convert them into safer nitrates. Cycling an aquarium without fish can take up to 6 weeks, but is usually finished between 2 to 4.

    The main reason why hobbyists wait to add fish until after the nitrogen cycle is because fish create a large amount of ammonia through waste and respiration. This becomes a problem as the population of bacteria in a new aquarium can’t keep up with the demand. As a result, ammonia levels spike, followed by nitrite levels, and eventually nitrates. This can lead to water parameters literally off the charts!

    Even when an aquarium is freshly cycled, most hobbyists wait several weeks or months for the tank to reach stability, only adding a couple of fish here and there. This ensures that the bacteria populations grow alongside the increasing influx of ammonia.

    Reasons Why It Isn’t the Best Practice

    While fish-in cycling is generally looked down upon in the aquarium hobby, it can sometimes be an honest mistake. Unfortunately, many new hobbyists are eager to start their tanks and rely on only one source of information or don’t do any research at all!

    If the only source of information is an employee at a local pet store, then the information might be incorrect or outdated. This is especially true if the employee works based on commission, where they are especially eager to sell the new hobbyists as much as they can, including a bag full of fish. Lack of research can also lead to impulsive buys and sudden fish deaths.

    Are there any benefits to fish-in cycling?

    No, there aren’t any benefits to fish-in cycling. An aquarium can only complete the nitrogen cycle with time and other methods won’t make a bacteria population grow any faster.

    If you’ve already started fish-in cycling though, then you’ll want to be prepared for the next steps.

    How To Successfully Pull Off Fish In Cycling (In 7 Steps)

    Remember, it’s not recommended to do fish-in cycling for your aquarium, but it’s best to be prepared if you find yourself in this situation.

    Here is how to handle an uncycled tank safely that already has fish in it!

    1. Test Water Parameters

    The most important aspect of any aquarium cycling is testing water parameters, even more so for fish-in cycling as fish can easily be affected by unsuitable conditions. In a fishless cycle, water parameters can largely be left uncontrolled, but fish need stability and nontoxic conditions.

    While there are no acceptable ammonia and nitrite levels for fish, it’s best to keep both under 1.0 ppm to keep fish safe; this should be enough to keep the nitrogen cycle going while making more tolerable conditions for your fish.

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    Along with ammonia and nitrite, nitrate levels should also be tested daily. Nitrate might take longer to appear in the aquarium as it’s one of the last compounds created by the nitrogen cycle. In general, nitrate levels can reach moderately high levels before they become toxic to fish, but a water change will be needed to reduce levels once past 20.0 to 40.0 ppm.

    Another crucial water parameter to test is pH. Water’s pH can be difficult to control, and it’s usually best to leave it untouched. However, if your tank is experiencing daily swings of 0.5 to 1.0, then some moderation will be needed.

    2. Water Changes

    More than likely, you will need to do many water changes between the time of the first fish being added and several weeks after the cycle has officially finished. Water changes are the best way of having an immediate effect on water parameters, so long as the source water is reliable.

    Depending on what your testing kit reads, you may need to do water changes once or twice a day until the parameters stabilize. How often a water change is needed will depend mostly on ammonia and nitrite levels, but nitrate can also become deadly at high levels and under extended exposure.

    How To Make A Water Change

    If you find your aquarium has nitrite or ammonia levels above 1.0 to 2.0 ppm, then a water change is needed. However, a large water change can also stress out fish and disrupt beneficial bacteria even more than they already are. Because of this, it’s recommended to do smaller, more consistent water changes.

    In general, one or two 25% water changes throughout the day will help keep levels manageable, though this will be different with every fish tank. If ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate levels skyrocket, then it may be necessary to complete a near-100% water change.

    Keep in mind that bacteria mostly colonize filter media and don’t live in the water column, so replacing the water is safe as long as the source water is safe.

    3. Source Water

    Understanding your source water is important for all stages of your fish tank’s life. Whether you decide to use tap water, distilled water, RO water, or RO/DI water, you should always know its baseline parameters.

    Unfortunately, many tap water options contain ammonia as a byproduct of chloramine treatment. Products like Seachem Prime can help detoxify harmful compounds. Increasing or lowering pH may also be necessary depending on the origin of the tap water.

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    4. Add Fish Slowly

    The worst thing you can do for any new tank is add too many fish too quickly. Adding a lot of fish at once causes ammonia spikes due to the additional bioload and the bacteria’s inability to process increased amounts.

    ⚠️ The #1 Killer: In my experience helping customers through this, overstocking is the thing that turns a manageable fish-in cycle into a full wipeout. Too many fish means too much ammonia, and beneficial bacteria simply can’t multiply fast enough to keep up. If you’re stuck cycling with fish, fewer fish in the tank dramatically increases your chances of pulling it off. If that means temporarily rehoming some fish, it’s worth it. you can add them back once the cycle is established.

    Adding a few hardy fish that can withstand less than ideal aquarium conditions is also a good way to give your tank a better chance of surviving its first few weeks. If able, add new fish the second day after the tank is set up. This will allow for some parameters, like water temperature, to stabilize. Even then, it is likely you will lose a few fish.

    If you’ve already added all the fish you’re ever going to get into a brand new, day-one, uncycled tank, then you will want to test water parameters daily–if not several times a day–and follow the other protocols on this list.

    5. Feeding

    Another way to make the cycling process safer is by limiting feeding. During this time, fish will naturally be stressed and won’t need to eat as often as they usually do. Limiting the amount and frequency of feeding also has a few other benefits to keeping toxic levels down.

    In any established tank, overfeeding can cause ammonia or nitrite to spike. This is because uneaten food breaks down like any other organic in the aquarium, causing it to contribute to ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. This is also why leftover food should be removed from the tank within 5 minutes of being offered. To help prevent overfeeding and increasing waste load, only a flake or two should be offered at any given time.

    Even though your fish might ask you for food, most aquarium species are hardy fish that can easily go several days without feeding. For an uncycled aquarium, it’s recommended to only feed one small portion every other day. This will also naturally decrease the amount of waste entering the system as less fish food is being processed.

    6. Add Plants

    Aquatic plants benefit any freshwater system, but they’re especially helpful when trying to keep toxic compounds out of an uncycled tank. The main reasons for having a planted tank include processing waste, increasing oxygen levels, and introducing pre-established beneficial bacteria colonies.

    In order to grow, plants process nutrients from the water column and the substrate. These essential nutrients just so happen to be nitrate and some parts of ammonia and nitrite. Plants can be used to decrease the impact of ammonia buildup, though how much will depend on how many plants are added. There are also some plants that are more suited for nutrient reduction, such as Azolla, Hornwort, and Watersprite

    A planted aquarium will also have more available oxygen than one without plants. In addition to nutrients, live plants also require carbon dioxide to complete photosynthesis. Oxygen is a byproduct of this process and is introduced into the water column. Additional oxygen is crucial for fish experiencing ammonia or nitrite poisoning as those compounds can start to burn the gills and affect breathing ability.

    Lastly, adding plants will help transfer some beneficial bacteria from one cycled aquarium to an uncycled one via plants. Many bacteria will be lost in the transfer, but some should be able to be established in the new uncycled tank. This should help increase beneficial bacterial growth and population.

    7. Add Beneficial Bacteria

    Bottled beneficial bacteria is a relatively new product available at most local fish stores. Often, these products are advertised as being able to instantly cycle an aquarium, making conditions safe for the immediate addition of fish. While bottled bacteria should help introduce bacteria into the aquarium, it doesn’t guarantee that they’ll actually grow.

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    The idea behind bottled beneficial bacteria is that you’re instantly introducing a colony of bacteria that can process fish waste and other contaminants1. This doesn’t mean that you’re skipping the nitrogen cycle, but rather that you’re facilitating the bacterial growth necessary to complete it.

    For some tanks, this works. But for others, it’s a false promise. While it won’t hurt your aquarium to dose beneficial bacteria during the cycling process, continue to follow the other recommendations on this list for extra security.

    🏆 Mark’s Take: When customers call me in a panic about an uncycled tank, my three-part answer is always the same: dose a quality bottled bacteria product, stay on top of daily water changes to knock back ammonia, and reduce your fish load if you can. Those three things together give you the best shot at getting through this without losing fish. Don’t try to ride it out with just one of the three. you need all of them working together.

    Other Tips And Tricks

    The best way to safely make it through having fish in an uncycled tank is by monitoring it and making changes gradually. Remember that making big changes on top of already stressful conditions will only make things worse.

    A few tips to getting through an uncycled fish tank emergency, on top of the other methods on this list, include: adding filter media from another cycled aquarium and asking your local fish if they’ll hold your fish for you.

    As mentioned before, most of the bacteria that live in an aquarium grow within the filter cartridge and media. The easiest way to introduce, and sometimes even complete aquarium cycling, is by transplanting media from an already-established tank to the new one.

    Some hobbyists also transfer ‘aquarium gunk’, which is the sludge-like organic matter often at the bottom of the tank or filter, which is teeming with biodiversity and bacteria. This transfer will effectively allow beneficial bacteria to continue processing the new tank just as it was in the previous one.

    If everything on this list fails and your new fish are gasping for air, then it might not be too late to ask your local fish store or a fellow hobbyist for help. Many aquarium stores are willing to help out their patrons in regards to quarantining a few fish. They may provide a space for fish to stay while the aquarium cycling continues. If not, a fellow hobbyist may also have the means to make accommodations.

    FAQS

    What does a fish-in cycle mean?

    A fish-in cycle means that fish are present in the tank during the initial nitrogen cycle. This is often a fishless process as fish depend on beneficial bacteria to make the aquarium safe; fish produce toxic ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate that need to be processed by bacteria for safe conditions.

    Fish-in cycles were once a popular method due to a lack of research and bad information. Information about the aquarium industry and husbandry was difficult to come by, and many store employees were–and still are–uneducated about the true process.

    How long should a fish-in cycle take?

    A fish-in cycle can take a week but it can also take two months. How long your tank takes to cycle will depend on how quickly your bacteria can grow, which varies from tank to tank.

    A fish-in cycle should be fast but as thorough as possible; while you want conditions to be safe as soon as possible, you also want to give your bacteria time to grow and colonize the aquarium for future stability.

    In general, a fish-in cycle can become a ‘ghost’ cycle in as little as a week, especially if it is a heavily planted aquarium. A ghost cycle is when the nitrogen cycle is happening in the aquarium, but goes undetected due to ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate being processed faster than can be tested. As mentioned above, plants take up nutrients, decreasing their presence in the tank water. This can make it seem like it’s a fully cycled tank, but the process is still happening.

    Can I add fish during cycling?

    It is not recommended to add fish during a cycle, but you might find yourself in this scenario. Check water parameters, change water as necessary, add only a few fish at a time or stop entirely, make feeding adjustments, add plants, and dose bottled bacteria.

    Which fish are best for cycling?

    If you must add fish to a new tank, then it’s best to add extremely hardy species, like danios, guppies, and platys.

    Should I do water changes during a fish-in cycle?

    Yes! Water changes are the best way to keep parameters in check at any stage of a new tank. Especially in a fish-in cycle, testing water parameters and performing water changes as necessary to keep ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels down may just be what keeps your fish alive.

    Final Thoughts

    It is never recommended to add fish to a completely new tank, but you might not have known or were given bad information. Luckily, there are a few ways to mitigate the harsh effects of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate created by more fish waste and respiration. Some of these methods include water changes, limited feeding, and dosing bottled bacteria. If all else fails, you may ask your local fish store or a fellow hobbyist to hold your fish while the cycle continues.

  • Why There Are No Fish For 1 Gallon Tanks That You Can Keep

    Why There Are No Fish For 1 Gallon Tanks That You Can Keep

    I get asked regularly about stocking 1-gallon tanks, and my answer is always honest: there are no fish that can be kept humanely in a 1-gallon aquarium. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve seen the results of trying. stressed, short-lived fish in inadequate conditions. This guide explains why, and what the actual minimum tank sizes are.

    Are you considering buying a 1-gallon fish tank? A compact aquarium is an attractive idea for many fishkeepers, but such a small tank is not a wise choice for a beginner.

    Read this article to explore the potential uses for a 1-gallon fish tank and learn why there are no suitable fish for 1 gallon tank setups. Let’s dive in!

    Key Takeaways

    • A 1 gallon fish tank or bowl is too small to keep live aquarium fish long-term. They may survive, but they will not thrive in such a cramped space.
    • It is possible to keep nano fish like bettas in a 1-gallon tank as a temporary solution, although you need to keep a close eye on water parameters and perform frequent water changes. A heavily planted small tank will help you maintain stable water parameters.
    • Experienced aquarists may attempt to keep fish in micro aquariums, but there’s no good reason to attempt this with live animals. A 5-gallon tank is the minimum recommended size for a fish tank, although larger tanks in the 15 to the 20-gallon range are better for beginners.
    • Live plants are a better choice for a 1 gallon tank, although small snail species and ghost shrimp or neocaridina/ red cherry shrimp can also be kept in small tanks.

    Can You Keep Fish in a 1 Gallon Tank?

    Before we go into too much detail, let’s start off with the big question. Can fish live in a one-gallon tank? The simple answer is yes, but as you’ll learn, there’s a lot more to this question than a simple yes or no.

    The next question we need to ask is, should fish live in a one-gallon tank, and the answer is no, at least not in the long term.

    Read on as we explore some of the reasons why such a small tank is just not enough space for pet fish.

    The Natural Habitat Debate

    Sure, many fish live in very small ponds in nature. Betta fish are known to survive in shallow ditches, and some killifish even complete their entire lifecycles in large rain puddles!

    However, even the smallest of these ponds and puddles are much larger than a gallon. Shallow freshwater ecosystems are also usually well-vegetated and complete with organisms that help to maintain water quality. Recreating a functional ecosystem is possible in aquariums but very difficult in a micro setup.

    Aquarium Size and Swimming Space

    One-gallon fish tanks measure about 8 inches long, 6 inches wide, and about 5 inches tall (20x15x13cm). 1-gallon bowls are more common than tanks, and these typically have a diameter of about 8 inches.

    That’s really not a lot of space for a fish to swim, so immediately, you run into potential problems for active swimming fish like zebra danios. It’s also important to note that most small fish live in schools or shoals in nature, so it’s best to keep them in groups of six or more.

    Hardware And Decorations

    Most fish prefer some sort of cover in their tank, like caves where they can hide or plants where they can shelter. However, your space is already pretty limited in a 1-gallon tank, so everything you add to the tank decreases the space for your fish.

    The small size of this tank also makes it difficult to find aquarium equipment like heaters and filters.

    Water Quality

    Maintaining high water quality and stable water parameters is your number-one goal as a fishkeeper. Water quality tends to decrease over time, and at a certain point, fish become sick and even perish in bad water. Now, even large aquariums need regular maintenance, but things can go bad very quickly in a small tank!

    As uneaten food and fish waste collects in a fish tank, ammonia accumulates in the water before being converted into nitrite and then nitrate. Ammonia and nitrite are highly toxic to fish, so without a functioning colony of beneficial bacteria in a properly cycled tank, your pets are likely to get sick.

    It is possible to cycle a micro aquarium, but such a small tank would be in a delicate balance and very sensitive to increased nutrient levels and other disturbances.

    What Can You Keep in a Small Aquarium?

    Many small fish and invertebrates are suitable for small aquariums, although 5 gallons is the smallest you want to go for long-term care.

    That being said, many species can survive in a 1-gallon tank, but they are not likely to enjoy the experience! That means a 1-gallon setup is usually only recommended as a temporary solution and not as your pet’s forever home.

    Nano Species

    School of Rasboras

    Nano fish are small species, usually growing to less than about 2 inches. The smallest nano species in the fish keeping hobby grow to about 0.75 inches or so, but even larger species like the betta fish are often kept in tiny tanks.

    Let’s take a look at a few small fish species and discuss whether they are suitable for a small one-gallon tank.

    • Betta Fish

    The betta, or Siamese fighting fish, is usually the first choice for fish keepers who want a tiny tank, but a 1-gallon tank is simply too small for an adult betta fish. Sure, these popular fish are often sold in tiny tubs or cups in the aquarium trade, but if you look a little closer, those fish don’t look very happy or healthy!

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    A 5-gallon aquarium with a filter and a heater is a much better long-term solution for betta fish care, and really is the minimum tank size you should consider for these beautiful fish.

    • White Cloud Minnows

    White cloud mountain minnows are popular cool-water nano fish for smaller tanks. These freshwater aquarium fish max out at about an inch and a half, and their hardy nature makes them a great choice for a beginner.

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    However, white clouds are not recommended for tanks smaller than five gallons, and ten gallons is actually their recommended minimum tank size.

    • Japanese Rice Fish
    Japanese Rice Fish
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    Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

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    Japanese rice fish, also known as Medaka, are tiny fish that are often kept in small aquariums. Like most other nano fish, they could certainly survive in a tiny one-gallon tank, but it would be very difficult to keep them healthy, and that’s why they’re much better off in a ten-gallon aquarium.

    • Neon Tetras
    Neon Tetra
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    Neon tetras may be small (up to 1.5 inches), but these stunning schooling fish from South America need a bigger tank than you might think. In fact, 10 gallons is the smallest you’d want to go for these active swimmers, but 15 to 20 gallons is a much better option.

    • Least Killifish

    The least killifish is a truly tiny creature, and one of the species with the smallest tank requirements in the hobby. Males grow to less than an inch, and females grow a little more than an inch.

    A pair of least killifish can be kept in a tank as small as 3 gallons or so, but again, a larger tank in the 5- 10 gallon range would be better.

    Invertebrates

    Invertebrates (mollusks, crustaceans, etc.) are a popular choice for a smaller aquarium due to their small size and low bioload. Let’s take a look at some popular inverts that can survive in a smaller tank.

    • Snails

    Snails are popular freshwater aquarium pets that don’t need a huge tank to thrive. However, a 1-gallon tank is a little too small for some species.

    You could attempt a 1-gallon setup for small species like bladder snails, but larger aquariums are necessary for bigger species and assassin snails.

    • Shrimp

    It is possible to keep shrimp in a 1-gallon size tank, but you run the same water quality risks as when keeping fish. A few ghost shrimp could work in a 1-gallon tank with live plants and careful monitoring, but a larger aquarium is always a better bet.

    Live Plants

    Live aquarium plants are a great option for a small space, and have the added benefit of stabilizing water parameters, which is great if you do need to keep any invertebrates or fish in the tank temporarily.

    Many aquarium plants grow too large for a 1-gallon tank or bowl, so make sure you choose miniature species. The following popular aquarium plants are suitable for a small tank:

    What To Do With Them?

    The question of keeping fish in a 1-gallon tank mostly centers around ethics. Remember, the simple answer is that a small fish will survive in a 1-gallon tank, and maybe even live a full and healthy life if you’re experienced and dedicated enough to perform frequent water quality maintenance.

    However, you should also ask yourself why you’re keeping fish in the first place and whether survival is enough or if you want your pets to be as comfortable as possible. Looking at it from this perspective, there are just a few scenarios where you might consider keeping fish in such a small environment.

    Read on to learn when you could keep fish in a one-gallon aquarium and discover alternative options for your tiny tank.

    Connect Multiple Aquariums

    There is one scenario that would theoretically allow you to keep a few species permanently in 1-gallon aquariums, but this is something only experienced aquarists should attempt.

    Without going into too much detail, it is possible to plumb multiple tanks together and use a central sump system to pump water through all of them. Ten one-gallon tanks connected would allow you to keep multiple small tanks with small fish while having a better chance of maintaining good water parameters.

    It’s important to remember that each fish will still be confined to its own tank, so this is only a good option for the smallest nanofish and species that do not need much swimming space. You’ll also need excellent filtration to maintain good water quality, and some live plants will also help to stabilize the system.

    Possible species for a multiple-tank setup include:

    Parasites and infections spread easily in this kind of setup, so it’s important to quarantine any fish before adding them to the system. This usually involves keeping new fish in a separate cycled tank for three or four weeks to observe their condition and medicate if necessary.

    Temporary Housing

    It’s always handy to have a spare tank on hand for emergencies. If a new fish in your community tank turns out to be a bully, or if one of the other fish is getting picked on, you may need to move one to a separate tank while considering your options.

    Small tanks are also useful for quarantining or medicating sick fish outside of their regular tank. This is especially useful when using medications that are harmful to other animals in a community tank.

    You could also use a tiny tank as a temporary housing solution when remodeling one of your larger tanks, but you’ll need to pay close attention to your water parameters and quality. Overfeeding is one of the biggest dangers when moving your fish to a very small tank because excess nutrients from uneaten food can cause rapid changes in water quality.

    It is especially important to understand the nitrogen cycle before attempting to keep anything in a small tank, whether it’s a long-term or just a temporary solution. You’ll also need a reliable test kit to monitor your water parameters and develop a water change schedule.

    Growing Live Food

    A one-gallon tank might be too small for fish, but this tank size is pretty handy for growing your own fish food. Culturing live food is a great idea for feeding picky fish like the scarlet badis and pea puffer.

    You could try breeding bladder snails, daphnia, or even mosquito larvae to provide your fish with a free and healthy food source. Just make sure none of those mosquitos escape! Infusoria is a great starter food for fish fry that you can grow in a small tank.

    You can also grow algae on rocks if you keep your tank in a sunny area. This is a great natural food source for algae eaters like the otocinclus catfish and some of the Southeast Asian gobies.

    Try A Terrarium

    You could also try something completely different with a one-gallon fish tank and convert it into a terrarium. Miniature cacti or other succulent plants look great in small glass enclosures, but almost any small plant could survive with the right soil, nutrients, and light.

    You’ll still need to water your plants, but they’ll be much easier to care for than live fish in such a tiny space!

    FAQs

    What fish can live in a one-gallon tank?

    Pretty much any small fish can survive in a 1-gallon tank for as long as you can maintain suitable water quality. However, a one-gallon tank is really too small for the long-term care of any fish species, especially if you care about the welfare of your pets.

    Can a betta live in a 1-gallon tank?

    Betta fish will survive in a one-gallon fish tank, although they will be very cramped and difficult to care for in the long-term. A five-gallon aquarium is the minimum recommended size for a betta fish tank.

    How many guppies can live in a 1-gallon tank?

    You could keep a single male guppy in a 1-gallon aquarium, although it would be much better to keep a small group of five or six in a decent 15-gallon tank with filtration and heating.

    What is the best fish for a small aquarium?

    Each fish keeper has their own favorite small fish species, but I do not recommend keeping any freshwater aquarium fish in a tank size smaller than 5 gallons. This tank size will make a great home for bettas and killifish.

    Step up to a 15-gallon aquarium to keep even more fish like small tetras, rasboras, and honey gouramis. At this tank size, you can even keep a small community and observe the interesting behavior of happy schooling fish!

    Can 2 goldfish live in a 1-gallon tank?

    Goldfish need a surprisingly large aquarium for long-term survival. A pair of adult goldfish requires at least 30 gallons, so a 1-gallon tank or bowl just isn’t going to work!

    Can snails live in a 1-gallon tank?

    Like all aquatic creatures, snails produce waste that can accumulate and affect water quality. Many aquarium snail species are very hardy, but you’d still need to clean their tank regularly and perform a few water changes each week to keep their water quality high. Small species like bladder snails could be an interesting option for a 1-gallon aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    Unfortunately, a one gallon aquarium is just too small for keeping fish. However, there are a few things you can do with such a small tank, so don’t be too quick to put your tiny aquarium up for sale! Micro setups are great for growing plants, growing live food, or housing fish for short periods in emergencies.

    Do you have a one-gallon aquarium? Let us know what you keep in your tiny tank!

  • 15 Fish That Look Like Snakes: My Picks From 25 Years in the Hobby

    15 Fish That Look Like Snakes: My Picks From 25 Years in the Hobby

    Snake-like fish are one of those categories that genuinely surprises new hobbyists. the variety out there is wild, and they add a completely different visual element to any tank. Of the fish on this list, moray eels are the ones I’ve personally kept over the years. They’re endlessly fascinating but come with their own unique demands. If you’re drawn to the elongated, serpentine look, there are options here for every skill level and tank setup. but keep one rule in mind across almost all of them: always cover your tank.

    Key Takeaways

    • Most snake like fish species are eel shaped fish that are found in both; freshwater habitats and saltwater habitats.
    • Most species of snake looking fish including Zebra moray and Snakeheads are medium to large sized fish and are agggressive
    • There are smaller peaceful fish like the Kuhli Loach that work in community thank

    15 Fish That Look Like Snakes

    1. Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loach
    Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loaches are hardy bottom-dwelling fish. Nocturnal in nature. Gets along with many fish and tolerate of coldwater environments

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    • Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy 
    • Temperament: Peaceful and sociable 
    • Adult Size: 3 to 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: At least 20 gallons for 3 to 5 individuals 
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75°F to 82°F

    The reason why I put Kuhli Loaches in the first place is because their slender body looks exactly like a snake. Despite their body shape, their behavior tends to be like a snake because they are nocturnal, active, and super sneaky creatures.

    Kuhli Loaches are beginner friendly fish species that are hardy and easy to keep in a freshwater fish aquarium. Therefore, if you’re new to aquarium hobby, you should definitely pet these amazing creatures. 

    Make sure to add lots of hiding places and sandy, soft substrate to make them feel at home!

    🏆 My Top Pick: If you want a genuinely snake-like fish that won’t cause trouble in a community tank, the Kuhli Loach is where I’d start. They’re peaceful, hardy, and beginner-friendly. and their slender, banded body makes them one of the most convincingly snake-like fish you can keep alongside other species. Just do your research on tank mates and keep them with calm, non-aggressive fish.

    2. Rope Fish

    • Scientific Name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Peaceful and sociable 
    • Adult Size: 2 feet 
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Origin: West & Central Africa
    • Temperature: 73° to 82°F

    The Rope fish, commonly known as the Reedfish or snake fish, looks like a combo of fish, eel, and snake. Like a snake, the Rope fish can live inside and outside of water because it possesses lungs. Like eels and snails, they have long cylindrical bodies with dorsal finlets that resemble a rope. 

    They get large reaching around 20 inches with a maximum size of around 36 inches. Therefore, you need a large size tank mainly because of their nocturnal leaping activities. 

    ⚠️ Universal Warning for This Entire List: Almost every fish on this list is an escape artist. Kuhli Loaches, Rope Fish, Fire Eels, Tire Track Eels. they will find any gap in your lid and be on the floor by morning. This is the most common way hobbyists lose these fish. Always use a tight-fitting lid with no gaps around heaters, filters, or air lines. This is non-negotiable with any eel-bodied species.

    3. Fire Eel

    Fire-Eel
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus Erythrotaenia
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive 
    • Adult Size: 20 to 40 inches 
    • Minimum Tank Size:
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 24-28℃

    Contrary to its name, the Fire eel is not a true eel. They are one of the most common freshwater fish species with protruding snouts as eels. Mostly, they gain their popularity because of their unique color and big size, reaching around 40 inches in length.

    Like a snake, they have those creepy sneaky vibes with no abdominal fins on their long cylindrical bodies with dark brown or gray color. 

    Though they rarely bite, Fire eels are particularly dangerous because of their spines and toxins. Therefore, proper caution and care are essential, especially with kids.

    4. Snakeskin Discus

    Snakeskin-Discus
    • Scientific Name: Symphysodon spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 6 to 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivores
    • Origin: South America 
    • Temperature: 82-88°F

    A gift of selective breeding, the Snakeskin discus looks nothing like a snake. However, their spotted appearance with thin striations and intricate scale patterns resembles the skin of snakes. Hence, the name.

    With a beautiful and eye catching appearance and a peaceful nature, the coloration varies with Snakeskin Discus. red, brown, and blue, which all are phenomenal looking. Therefore, Snakeskin Discus makes a fitting choice for many aquarium enthusiasts. 

    However, they have special requirements to meet for their happy and healthy survival. Thus, maintaining the water quality and temperature is essential. Check out my discus guide for more tips on how to properly keep them.

    5. Tire Track Eel

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus Favus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 28 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 80 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Origin: Riverine fauna of India, Bangladesh, Pakistan, and Sri Lanka.
    • Temperature: 72-82°F

    Long cylindrical bodies, irregular dark brown patterns, and zig zag markings with snout-like faces with no pelvic fins make the Tire Track Eel a fitting match for a snake. 

    Also known as the ZigZag Eel or Reticulated Spiny Eel, they are a popular freshwater aquarium fish with shy and timid personalities. Mostly active during the night time, the Tire Track Eels are usually found burrowing in the substrate and other decors. 

    Therefore, choosing a sandy and soft substrate with lots of tank decors, such as large pieces of driftwood, smooth rock caves, PVC pipes, and plant thickets, are essential to keep them happy and healthy. 

    6. Snakeskin Barb

    • Scientific Name: Puntius rhomboocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 60-gallon tank
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Borneo, Indonesia
    • Temperature: 73 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit

    At first glance, you will not relate Snakeskin barb to snakes. However, upon careful observation, you’ll notice that Snakeskin Barbs have Python like markings all over their bodies that earn the name. 

    The Snakeskin barbs are barb fish that are relatively small fish and thrive in a group of 6 to 8 fish species. 

    They are an ideal choice for experienced aquarists who appreciate some mid and upper level activities in their freshwater fish aquarium.

    7. Northern Snakehead fish

    • Scientific Name: Channa Argus
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult
    • Temperament: Aggressive, predatory 
    • Adult Size: 40″ long
    • Minimum Tank Size: 500 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores 
    • Origin: China, Southern Siberia, and North Korea
    • Temperature: 41 to 60° F

    Northern snakehead fish is named after the snake like head shape that hunts in packs. Northern snake eels are one of the largest freshwater habitats that are usually found in cool waters and can endure massive temperature changes ranging from 32° to 85°F, which is insane1.

    However, they are legally banned in the United States, Europe, and Australia, so you need a special permit to own one in your home aquarium. 

    8. Senegalus Eel 

    Bichir
    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive 
    • Adult Size: 20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Egypt, Kenya, Nigeria, and Senegal
    • Temperature: 75-82° F

    If you’re someone who’s obsessed with snakes and dinosaurs, you should definitely check out the Senegalus Eel, also commonly known as the Dinosaur Bichir.

    Dinosaur Bichirs are large sized fish that require a tank size of a minimum 90 gallons. However, if your Senegalus Eel is a juvenile, you can keep it in a 40 gallon tank and upgrade later. However, make sure to provide them with optimal water conditions and a varied diet that compliments their active nature. 

    9. Cobra Guppy 

    Cobra Guppies
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful and easy going 
    • Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivores 
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Temperature: 70°F to 81°F

    When it comes to exotic freshwater fish, cobra guppies are one of the fanciest and most beautiful exotic fish you’ll ever find. The coloration varies from Red to yellow, blue, white, black, Albino and blue, and Gold. Each one is beautiful in its own unique way. 

    These guppy fish get their name because of their distinctive body markings that resemble the hood of a cobra. Since they are hardy fish that are also active swimmers, they are excellent for beginner aquarists as long as you provide them with a well maintained aquarium with a good oxygen supply and water quality. 

    10. Pipefish

    Pipefish
    • Scientific Name: Syngnathinae
    • Difficulty Level: Difficult 
    • Temperament: Depends on species 
    • Adult Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 Gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Atlantic and Pacific Oceans
    • Temperature: 72.0 to 77.0° F
    • Reef Safe: Depends on species
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Pipefish look more like seahorses than snakes with an extraordinary ability to camouflage in the background of their environment. 

    The long snouts and bony rings around their bodies make them unique looking fish that change color to blend in with their surroundings. 

    Though, smaller in size than other average marine creatures, Pipe fishes are difficult to keep and require an experienced aquarist’s skills for a better life. Therefore, if you’re a beginner, Pipe fish are not recommended.

    11. Moray Eel 

    Morary Eel In Tank
    • Scientific Name: Gymnothorax kidako
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Large, aggressive, predatory
    • Adult Size: 39.4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 160 Gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore 
    • Origin: Western Central Pacific
    • Temperature: 66.0 to 78.0° F
    • Reef Safe: With caution (Requires specialized filtration and lighting equipment)
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Many people believe that eels are just sea snakes with gills. However, true aquarists know that eels are basically snake shaped fish that are a rare beauty in the aquarium hobby, just like the Moray eel.

    Frankly speaking. the Moray eel just looks like a cross between a snake and an eel with no pectoral fins or pelvic fins. Also, there are small holes in the elongated gill openings but they don’t possess any bony plate covers like most fish. They possess a continuous dorsal fin and anal fin but no scales. 

    However, if you’re willing to keep a Moray eel, make sure to provide plenty of space. They get large and are aggressive. They are a better fit for experienced hobbyists.

    12. Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus bichir
    • Difficulty Level: Intermediate 
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2.5 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivores 
    • Origin: Northeast Africa
    • Temperature: 74°F to 82°F

    Bichirs are one of the most fantastic fish that are ancient and add a very sophisticated appeal to your tank. 

    In fact, it is one of my favorite larger sized fish that looks like a snake. 

    Granted, they come from shallow water, their eyesight is terrible and they have to rely on other senses to navigate properly and find food. 

    One of the most interesting features of Bichirs is the presence of lungs that allow them to come to the water’s surface to get oxygen. While easy to keep, Bichirs are very hard to breed.

    13. Banded Snake Eel (Ophichthidae)

    • Scientific Name: Myrichthys colubrinus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Somewhat aggressive
    • Adult Size: 4 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150+ gallons tank
    • Diet: Small fishes, crabs and shrimps
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Temperature: 82 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Snake eels stay true to their name by the way they burrow very fast with the tips of their tails just like a snake. As nocturnal as they are, they remain hidden during the day in the soft substrate and come out at night to hunt. 

    Maintenance wise, they are easy to keep and feed. Just provide them with optimal normal saltwater fish parameters including pH, saliny, temperature, and water movement, and they are good to go!

    14. Snakeskin Gourami

    Snakeskin Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 9.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 35 Gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore 
    • Origin: Asia
    • Temperature: 72.0 to 86.0° F

    The Snakeskin Gourami might not be the most common freshwater fish as other fish in the Gourami family, but the scales and patterns on their bodies bear a striking resemblance to that of a snake. 

    In their native land, they are sought after as a good food fish and cultivated for purpose. However, in the aquarium hobby, they are one of the more peaceful gourami fish that are hardy and easy to breed. Hence, perfect for beginner aquarists. 

    15. Orangethroat Pikeblenny

    • Scientific Name: Chaenopsis alepidota
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons tank
    • Diet: Small fish, crustaceans
    • Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 82.4 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The Orangethorat Pikeblenny is one of the hardiest saltwater fish that looks like and is found in coastal shallows.

    In the aquarium hobby, they are hardy fish species that should be kept with other peaceful tank mates with lots and lots of hiding places.

    However, make sure to house only one Pikeblenny in an aquarium. They will fight amongst members of their own species.

    Fun Fact: An Orangethroat PikeBlenny (Chaenopsis alepidota), displays its colors to attract a mate.

    FAQS

    Final Thoughts

    Snakes are sneaky little creatures that are curious and confident. No wonder why many people insist on keeping snakes as pets. 

    If you’re a seasoned aquarist who loves snakes but cannot keep them as pets, you can definitely go for any snake like fish from the list above and have fun with them!

  • 15 Small Pleco Species That Won’t Outgrow Your Tank

    15 Small Pleco Species That Won’t Outgrow Your Tank

    Most plecos outgrow most tanks. The species on this list do not. These are the plecos that actually work in standard aquariums without turning into a 12-inch problem.

    If the pleco you are considering is not on this list, double check its adult size before you buy.

    The “pleco problem” in the hobby is real: that little 2-inch fish at the pet store labeled “algae eater” is almost certainly a common pleco that will hit 18 to 24 inches within a few years and eat everything in sight except the algae you actually want eliminated. I’ve seen these fish abandoned in public ponds because their owners had no idea what they’d bought. The good news is that small pleco species. Bristlenoses, clown plecos, zebra plecos, and a dozen others. Stay under 5 or 6 inches, work in standard community tanks, and in many cases are better algae eaters per inch than the common pleco anyway. Bristlenose plecos, for example, are rasp-mouth machines that will clean glass and driftwood more efficiently than almost anything else their size. Here are 15 small pleco species worth knowing.

    It’s not uncommon to think this since you may have heard how big some species get. In today’s blog post, I will focus on small pleco species. These plecos are some of the smallest pleco species in the hobby and will fit in many community tanks. There are many options for you to choose from, but I’m focusing on my top 15, all with key info and photos to help you pick the best one for you!

    Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

    Small plecos are one of the most misunderstood fish in the hobby. After 25 years in the trade, I’ve watched the same mistake play out hundreds of times: someone buys a common pleco thinking it stays small, and two years later they have a 15-inch fish destroying everything in a 55-gallon. The species on this list stay manageable, mostly under 6 inches, and bring real algae control and bottom-dwelling interest to tanks as small as 20 gallons. The bristlenose is the one I recommend to almost everyone starting out. The zebra pleco is for experienced keepers with a budget to match. Everything else falls somewhere in between.

    Key Takeaways

    • There are over 150 pleco species, with several being under 6 inches in size
    • Several examples clude Zebra, Clown, and Bristlenose plecos
    • Make sure to provide the right environment and nutrition to ensure these fish thrive in your aquarium and community
    • Most plecos are peaceful, but may be aggressive towards members of their own species or other bottom dwellers

    Mark’s Pick

    The bristlenose pleco is my top pick for almost any freshwater setup that needs a bottom cleaner. It stays under 5 inches (13 cm), works in tanks from 25 gallons (95 L) up, eats algae reliably, and is one of the easiest plecos to breed in captivity. I’ve seen them hold their own in everything from planted community tanks to South American cichlid setups. If you’re asking which small pleco to get, start here.

    The Top 15 Small Pleco Species

    Finding the perfect small pleco species for your fish tank is an enjoyable experience. Plecos are not only attractive, but also aid in preserving a healthy aquatic atmosphere. Below, we present 15 tiny pleco varieties that make suitable companions for those with limited tank size – from popular Bristlenose to eye-catching Zebra ones!

    Take note of the following key states that I will provide for each pleco fish breed:

    • Common Name
    • L-Number
    • Scientific Name
    • Origin
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • pH
    • Temperature

    1. Bristlenose

    Bristlenose Pleco
    Bristlenose Pleco

    The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

    Click For Best Price
    • Common Names: Bushynose pleco, bristlenose pleco, Bristlenose catfish
    • L-Number: Ancistrus sp.3
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Adult Size: 3.5. 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 70-79 °F

    Aquarium aficionados will love the Bristlenose Pleco, an armored catfish species known for its remarkable appearance. This Ancistrus genus member is native to South America’s Amazon River basin and features small bristles on its snout, a unique trait that sets it apart from other plecos. You can find these fish in calico, piebald, albino and super-red color variations for those who want some added diversity among their tank inhabitants.

    When housing your new Bristolenese Pleco friend, you should consider at least 20 gallons of space but if possible go with a larger 30 or 40 gallon breeder Tank due to having more bottom surface space. Make sure there are plenty of places where they can hide along with heavily oxygenated water currents necessary for optimal health. They love to munch on driftwood so try adding it so they have sometime to graze on.

    Their gentle nature of this suckermouth catfish makes them ideal cohabitants inside community aquariums plus they will consume any algae!

    2. Clown

    Clown-Pleco
    • Common Names: Clown Pleco, Clown Panaque
    • L-Number: L-104
    • Scientific Name: Panaqolus maccus
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Adult Size: 3.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.8-7.6
    • Temperature: 73-82°F

    Clown Plecos, scientifically known as Panaqolus maccus and able to grow up to 3.5 inches in size, are often seen as a captivating addition for smaller tanks due to their eye-catching colorings and algae eating habits. They enjoy living with schooling fish, small cichlids, and tetras without any negative interactions because of their peaceful nature.

    In order to keep them healthy, it is essential that driftwood be present within the tank, which serves not only aesthetic purposes but also nutritional benefits since they primarily feed on various types of woods found amongst underwater aquatic habitats. Vegetables such as squash or cucumber should also make additions. At the same time, frozen foods and wafers is added to their feeding schedule.

    Overall, clown plecos makes these fish relatively easy long-term care companions that require very little maintenance outside careful provisioning once settled into its new environment.!

    3. Zebra

    Zebra-Pleco
    • Common Names: Zebra pleco
    • L-Number: L046
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus zebra
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Adult Size: 3.2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate-advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Temperature: 79-86°F

    The Zebra Pleco is a remarkable species of peaceful and carnivorous fish known for its black and white striped pattern. At most, these plecos grow to 3.5 inches making them an ideal size for aquariums alike! To ensure they stay comfortable, the tank should emulate their natural habitat which includes driftwood, rocks with rounded edges as well as sand-based substrate complete with strong currents and high oxygen levels.

    It’s crucial that this tiny creature receives plenty of meaty foods such as bloodworms in order to feed adequately on the proteins needed due to their strict carnivore dieting habits (yes they are primarily a carnivore!). If all these prerequisites are met, you will be rewarded handsomely when your zebra pleco morphs into an attractive focal point in your aquarium! Keep in mind that zebra plecos are one of the most expensive pleco breeds you can purchase in the hobby.

    4. Blue Black Beggini

    • Common Names: Blue Panaque, Flyer Pleco
    • L-Number: L235
    • Scientific Name: Panaque sp
    • Origin: Brazil, specifically found in the Rio Xingu
    • Adult Size: 3.2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.5 to 7.5
    • Temperature: 73°F to 84°F

    The Blue Black Beggini, with its particular dull charcoal black shade tinged with blue hues, is a captivating species that can grow up to 3.2 inches in size when bred correctly. It makes an attractive choice for aquarists wanting something unique and simple to care for.

    To look after the stunning pleco optimally one should maintain a pH level of 6.0 -6.5 (though it can adapt to a larger range) and give it an assortment of vegetation. They are a great addition to community tanks when kept with similar sized fish.

    5. Pitbull

    • Common Names: Pitbull Pleco
    • L-Number: LDA 25
    • Scientific Name: Parotocinclus jumbo
    • Origin: South America, specifically found in the Rio Tocantins basin in Brazil
    • Adult Size: They are relatively small, reaching about 2-2.5 inches (5-6.5 cm) in length.
    • Minimum Tank Size: A minimum of 20 gallons (75 liters)
    • Care Level: Easy to Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.4 to 7.6
    • Temperature: The ideal temperature range is between 68°F to 78°F.

    The Pitbull Pleco, a South American species that can reach up to 2.3 inches in size, is an excellent choice for those with minimal room in their aquariums. In order to house it in the perfect environment and enough space, it’s ideal to put them into a 20-gallon tank, which should have driftwood, rounded stones, and hiding spots included.

    Its diet consists of algae, but pitbull plecos can benefit from treats such as bloodworms or shrimp pellets once in a while too! In the wild they live in shallow low current waters with rocky bottoms.

    6. Gold Spot Dwarf

    • Common Names: Gold Spot Pleco
    • L-Number: L001
    • Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys joselimaianus
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Adult Size: 2″
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.8 to 7.5
    • Temperature: 71°F to 82°F

    The Gold Spot Dwarf Pleco is an attractive, small species that stands out with its dark base color and yellow markings on its body. These omnivorous plecos make a great addition to community tanks as they can live in harmony alongside small tetras and other fish varieties.

    To keep this gold spot dwarf healthy, it’s important to have the correct environment. Specifically maintaining pH levels between 6.4 – 7.5 (I included a larger range in the states as they can adapt) and temperatures of 68-78°F. With proper care, any tank can become more vibrant by housing one of these unique plecos!

    7. Queen Arabesque Pleco

    • Common Names: Queen Arabesque Pleco
    • L-Number: L260
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp.
    • Origin: South America, specifically from the Rio Tapajós basin in Brazil
    • Adult Size: 3.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 to 30 gallons (75 to 114 liters)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.4 to 7.6
    • Temperature: Ideal temperature range is between 73°F and 82°F (25°C to 28°C).

    The Queen Arabesque Pleco is an eye-catching species that will reach 3.5 inches in length at full size. Characterized by its intricate pattern and peaceful demeanour, this pleco requires strong water flow with high oxygen levels to do well in a tank setup. Hiding spots are also necessary for it to thrive so they feel safe from potential predators or disturbances from other inhabitants of the aquarium habitat.

    When selecting food options, focus on providing them with meaty meals such as bloodworms, mussel pellets and shrimp flakes. They are sensitive to high nitrates so water needs to be kept extra pristine. When paired correctly with compatible tankmates they will blossom into an impressive centerpiece!

    8. Alenquer Tiger

    • Common Names: Alenquer Tiger Pleco, Tangerine Tiger Pleco
    • L-Number: L397
    • Scientific Name: Panaqolus sp.
    • Origin: found in the rivers near Alenquer, Brazil.
    • Adult Size: 4″ inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (113 liters)
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.4 to 7.7
    • Temperature: 75°F and 86°F

    The Alenquer Tiger, also known as the Tangerine Tiger Pleco, is a captivating fish with its distinctive orange and black stripes. It grows up to 4 inches in size and has been successfully bred for aquariums, making it an attractive addition. To ensure your algae remains healthy, the aquarium needs an environment with pH 6.4 – 7.7 along with food like algae wafers intermixed with meaty items.

    9. King Tiger

    • Common Names: King Tiger Pleco
    • L-number: L066
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp
    • Origin: This species is native to the rivers of Brazil, particularly in the Amazon River basin.
    • Adult Size: 4-6 inches.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.8 to 7.0
    • Temperature: 77°F and 84°F

    The King Tiger Pleco, a species of small plecos bigger that only get to 4-6 inches, is distinguished by its light base and tiger like dark lines with transparent fins. These curious creatures should be provided with an aquarium that features great water circulation as well as ample oxygen levels. Also, they will need a meaty diet such as bloodworms, mussels or shrimp pellets for optimal care.

    This pleco is often compared to other L species, but this is the original. Other similar plecos include L333, L399, and L401

    10. Rubbernose

    • Common Names: Rubbernose Pleco, Rubberlip Pleco
    • L-Number: L187
    • Scientific Name: Chaetostoma milesi (There’s some debate on the exact scientific classification, but this is commonly accepted.)
    • Origin: South America, particularly found in the Andean river systems in Colombia and Venezuela
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallon long, otherwise 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.8 to 7.8
    • Temperature: 66°F and 77°F

    The Rubbernose Pleco (video source), also known as the Rubber Lip Pleco or Lip Pleco, is a small species that is maintained in a 20 gallon long aquarium. These fish are quite lively when searching for food and need plenty of room to swim around horizontally, adding an enjoyable element to any tank system.

    Their diet should include various kinds of hair algae, and they can even eat Black Beard Algae. They is trained to eat wafers, but this species will prefer live and frozen foods.

    11. Leopard Frog

    • Common Names: Leopard Frog Pleco, Imperial Tiger Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Peckoltia compta
    • L-Number: L134
    • Origin: Amazon Basin, specifically from the lower and middle stretches of the Tapajós River in Brazil
    • Adult Size: 3.5 – 4.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.0 to 7.4
    • Temperature: Ideal temperature range is between 75F and 82°F

    This species of pleco is captivating, distinguishable by its starkly contrasting black and white stripes. A manageable 3.5 inches in size when fully grown, the Leopard Frog Pleco is a great addition to any tank environment that resembles their native deep river channels – with sand-filled substrate areas coupled with rocks and driftwood for them to hide among. They enjoy high protein food such as bloodworms as much as veggies like cucumber slices. They do great with small to medium sized fish.

    12. Dwarf Snowball

    • Common Names: Dwarf Snowball Pleco, Snowball Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus contradens
    • L-Number: L102
    • Origin: South America, specifically found in the Rio Negro basin in Brazil
    • Adult Size: Up to 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.4 to 7.6
    • Temperature: Ideal temperature range is between 72°F and 86°F

    The Dwarf Snowball Pleco (video source) is one of the largest on this list growing to just under 6 inches in length. It stands out with a dark base coloration and spots along its fins and body. This omnivorous pleco can thrive when living alongside small tetras or other smaller fish species, making it suitable for adding to any community aquarium setup.

    They prefer a strong current so they should be housed with other fish that prefer stronger water flow.

    13. Angelicus Pleco

    • Common Names: Angelicus Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Panaque angelicus (sometimes listed under Peckoltia angelicus)
    • L-Number: L004
    • Origin: South America, specifically the river basins of Brazil and possibly Venezuela.
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon tank
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.6 to 7.6
    • Temperature: The ideal temperature range is between 75°F and 82°F

    Angelicus Pleco (video source) is a beautiful fish that can reach up to 4 inches in size and has an intriguing spot pattern on its body. It must live in water with strong currents and high levels of oxygen for optimal health, making it ideal for aquarists looking to add strong swimming fish like rainbowfish.

    They don’t eat plants and aren’t large enough to uproot them. Care should be take to make sure they get enough food to eat.

    14. Fine Spotted Pleco

    • Common Names: Fine Spotted Pleco, Starlight Bristlenose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp.
    • L-Number: L262
    • Origin: South America, specifically found in the Rio Negro basin in Brazil
    • Adult Size: 3.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 6.0 to 7.5
    • Temperature: 76°F to 82°F

    The Fine Spotted Pleco is a small species that reaches no more than 3.5 inches, making it suitable for limited tank sizes and ideal to include in community tanks. This attractive fish is identified by its light base color with dark lines as well as transparent fins.

    They require plenty of oxygen-rich water flow plus an omnivorous diet consisting mostly of meaty food items such as bloodworms, mussels and shrimp pellets as they are carnivores. They will do well with similar sized fish.

    15. Starlight Pleco

    • Common Names: Starlight Pleco, White Seam Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus dolichopterus
    • L-Number: L183
    • Origin: Manaus, Brazil
    • Adult Size: 4.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • pH: 5.0 to 6.5
    • Temperature: 73°F and 83°F

    The Starlight Pleco is a fascinating species that can reach up to 4.5 inches in length and boasts attractive patterning on its body with trademark white highlights on it’s dorsal and tail fins. This peaceful fish will need conditions with high oxygen levels as well as good water flow, making them ideal for any aquarist looking for something out of the ordinary!

    Like most Plecos on this list, they are omnivores and appreciate vegetables from time to time. They are appropriate with most community fish as long as they aren’t very large or overly territorial.

    Others

    We only kept our list to 15. However, there are a lot more. If we missed anything and if you have a species you would like mentioned,, drop us a comment below, and we will add it to our list.

    • Gold spot dwarf plecos
    • Rubber lipped pleco
    • Candy striped pleco

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What do plecos eat?

    Plecos are freshwater catfish that sport an armored plate covering and suction-cup type mouths. Feeding on algae, debris from the bottom of a tank and scavenging for other food sources, they need additional sustenance like shrimp, bloodworms, as well as kale or zucchini in order to be truly healthy, not forgetting their beloved algae wafers!

    How big do plecos get?

    Plecos are long-lived fish that grow to about 18 inches, though some species like Hypostomus and Hypopostomus can grow larger – up to 12” and will need an aquarium of at least 75 gallons.

    Otocinclus, on the other hand, are perfectly content in a 10-gallon tank. Learn more about these distinctive fish.

    What are the dietary requirements of small pleco species?

    Small pleco species need a combination of protein-rich foods and algae for their nutrition, ensuring they get the right balance. Such food sources provide variety to these small plecos’ diets while meeting all their dietary requirements.

    Can small pleco species coexist with other fish in a community tank?

    Small plecos is kept with other fish in a community tank, as long as compatible species are chosen. As such, these types of plecos have the ability to coexist peacefully with their aquarium mates.

    Small Pleco Species at a Glance

    SpeciesMax SizeMin TankDifficultyEst. Price
    Bristlenose5 in (13 cm)25 gal (95 L)Easy$5–$15
    Clown4 in (10 cm)20 gal (75 L)Easy$10–$20
    Pitbull2.5 in (6 cm)15 gal (57 L)Easy-Moderate$10–$20
    Rubbernose4 in (10 cm)25 gal (95 L)Easy$8–$15
    Leopard Frog4 in (10 cm)30 gal (113 L)Moderate$20–$40
    Dwarf Snowball5 in (13 cm)40 gal (151 L)Moderate$20–$50
    Starlight5 in (13 cm)40 gal (151 L)Moderate$30–$60
    Zebra3.5 in (9 cm)30 gal (113 L)Expert$100–$300

    Avoid If:

    • Your budget is under $20 and you want a specialty species: stick to bristlenose, clown, or rubbernose
    • You expect a pleco to survive on algae alone: every species on this list needs supplemental feeding (zucchini, sinking wafers, driftwood)
    • You have aggressive tankmates under 3 inches: small plecos will be harassed at feeding time
    • You want a hands-off algae cleaner: plecos reduce algae, they don’t eliminate it

    Closing Thoughts

    If you’re looking to add a touch of beauty and fascination to your aquatic life, small plecos provide the perfect option. With 15 distinct species available for aquarium enthusiasts of any level, these tiny fish come with unique characteristics and requirements that must be taken into account when creating their ideal tank setup.

    Providing adequate care, environment and nutrition are crucial in order to ensure a thriving community. By understanding each species needs, we can ensure they live happily within our underwater haven!

    From visually appealing specimens through to functional varieties – it’s essential careful planning is involved in setting up optimum home aquariums for these magnificent creatures so that all may benefit from their presence throughout its lifespan. After all, who doesn’t want amazing pleco friends swimming around?

  • Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – Here’s 21

    Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – Here’s 21

    Some fish are colorful, some fish are cute, and some fish look like dragons! In this post, we’ll be introducing 21 weird and wonderful fish, from little dragons just an inch or two long to massive sea monsters as long as a school bus!

    Read along to learn about some great fresh and saltwater dragon fish that you can keep in an aquarium, and some that are better left out in their natural habitat.

    Let’s get into it!

    Key Takeaways

    • Many fish species have sharp teeth, spiny fins, and beard-like growths that make them look just like dragons.
    • Some popular aquarium fish like bettas and guppies have been selectively bred to look more like dragon fish, but their care is much the same as other breeds.
    • Most of the species in this post are available in the aquarium hobby, so you can keep your very own dragon fish at home.
    • Some dragon fish, like the deep sea angler fish and giant oarfish, live in very specialized habitats or grow very large, so you won’t find them at your local fish store

    Fish That Looks Like A Dragon – 21 Species

    Are you ready to meet 21 amazing dragon fish? This list includes freshwater species like the prehistoric bichirs, brackish fish like the eel gobies, and saltwater species like the leafy seadragon.

    Many of these fish can be kept in a home aquarium, but some of them are better left to the experts. So, if you are looking for your very own dragon fish pet, be sure to check out the suggested temperatures, tank sizes, and care levels for each species to help you choose the right species.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Arowana

    • Scientific Name: Osteoglossum and Scleropages spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 4 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats insects and small fish
    • Origin: Australia, Asia, and South America
    • Temperature: 75 – 82 °F

    Arowanas are amazing freshwater fish with dragon-like scales and a huge mouth. In fact, the endangered Asian Arowana (Scleropages formosus) is even known as the ‘dragon fish’ due to its unique appearance.

    There are several species of these large freshwater fish distributed from South America to Australia, and they can make impressive pets. However, these monster fish need a very large tank and the experience of a dedicated fishkeeper for long-term care.

    2. Axolotl

    Axolotl in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Usually 9-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats invertebrates and small fish
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Temperature: 59 – 73 °F

    The axolotl is a bizarre-looking critter that makes a wonderful aquarium pet. These dragon-like amphibians are not true fish, although they spend their entire lives under the water!

    Axolotls are critically endangered in the wild due to the destruction of their native habitat in Mexico, but fortunately, these interesting animals are still common in captivity. They require cool water conditions and a healthy diet of live or frozen foods like brine shrimp and earthworms.

    3. Bettas

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Difficulty Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 76 – 81°F

    Bettas, or Siamese fighting fish, are popular all over the world for their beauty and feisty personalities. These small fresh water fish make great pets, especially for fishkeepers who don’t have room for a big tank.

    All bettas have a dramatic appearance, with bright colors and large flowing fins, but one breed stands out for its dragon-like appearance. Dragon scale bettas have extra large, metallic scales. Their body color is usually pearly white, and many specimens have fiery red fins.

    Betta fish are easy to care for if you provide a tank of at least 5 gallons, complete with a filter and heater. Avoid overfeeding and test your water regularly to monitor nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia levels to prevent common illnesses like fin rot or ich.

    4. Purple Dragon Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 72 – 82 °F

    Guppies are another world-famous fish that are sometimes associated with dragons. The purple dragon guppy is an awesome fancy guppy breed, with eye-catching colors and patterns. Males are smaller and more boldly marked, but even female dragon guppies have great patterning on their tails and dorsal fins.

    They may be a fancy breed, but purple dragon guppies are very easy to care for. These fun tropical fish are very easy to breed in a freshwater aquarium, which is a great hobby for everyone from beginners to advanced aquarists!

    5. Dragon Eye Goldfish

    Black-moor-goldfish in aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons +
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feeds on invertebrates and plants
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 65 – 72 °F

    Dragon eye goldfish are a strange but beautiful goldfish breed with bulging telescope eyes. These fancy goldfish have ancient origins in China, where the breed was first developed over 300 years ago!

    The popular black moor goldfish is a variation of the dragon eye that is popular all over the world, and readily available online or from aquarium stores. These adorable fish should be kept in a large aquarium with cool water and a gentle current. With good care, they can live for over 20 years.

    6. Senegal Bichir

    Senegal Bichir
    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons +
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Africa
    • Temperature: 75 – 82 °F

    The Senegal bichir is a prehistoric-looking fish from Africa, that is often called the dragon fish. These fish look almost like a cross between a dinosaur and an eel, so they make a really cool display animal for a big enough fish tank.

    Despite their strange looks, these fish are not particularly aggressive, although they will swallow any small fish that swims in reach of their large mouths! Large and medium-sized fish with peaceful personalities make the best tank mates for these interesting fish.

    These strange creatures are one of the few fish that can breathe air from the surface and can even walk across land. Check out my guide to 15 fish with legs to learn much more about walking fish!

    7. Dragonface Pipefish

    Dragon-Face-Pipefish
    • Scientific Name: Corythoichthys sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Copepods
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The Dragonface pipefish is a unique, eel-like fish from the seahorse family that hangs out on the floor of tropical reefs, waiting for small copepods to snack on. These unique fish have very dragon-like faces, complete with big eyes and a long snout.

    Dragonface pipe fish are popular in the reef aquarium hobby, although they have a specialized diet and are difficult to maintain if you don’t have a steady supply of live copepods to feed them. These tiny crustaceans are available from specialist aquarium stores, but you still need to make sure the other fish don’t eat all the food!

    8. Dragon Goby/ Violet Goby

    Dragon-Goby
    • Scientific Name: Gobioides broussonetii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful but territorial with their own kind
    • Adult Size: Can reach over 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons +
    • Diet: Filter-feeder
    • Origin: Southern USA to South and Central America
    • Temperature: 73 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Brackish water fish, not recommended for reef tanks
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The dragon goby is a mean-looking fish with upward-facing eyes, a strong jaw, and a row of spiky fins along its back, just like a dragon. Also known as violet gobies, these bottom dwellers are most at home in brackish waters, although they are sometimes found in fresh and saltwater habitats.

    Dragon gobies can be kept in brackish water aquariums, although they prefer a thick layer of soft sand to burrow in and they are not the most exciting pets. They look very similar to Peruvian gobies and are often sold under the same name. Both of these eel gobies may look aggressive, but they actually eat algae and other small food particles, so they are safe to keep with smaller fish.

    9. Dragon Moray Eel

    Dragon-Moray-Eel
    • Scientific Name: Enchelycore pardalis
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 – 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats other fish and sea creatures
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Does not eat corals, but will eat smaller fish
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The dragon moray is a colorful tropical reef creature that looks like a dragon. These snake-like fish manage to look beautiful and scary at the same time, making them an awesome choice for a large tropical marine aquarium. However, keep in mind they are difficult to keep. You could opt for a standard moray eel which are more hardy, though aggressive.

    10. Seadragons

    Sea-Dragon
    • Scientific Name: Phycodurus & Phyllopteryx spp.
    • Diet: Carnivore, eats small marine invertebrates
    • Size: 9 – 18 inches
    • Origin: Southern Australia
    • Available in the hobby: Very rare

    Seadragons are unique and delicate saltwater fish from the seahorse family. The leafy seadragon is a true master of camouflage that looks just like a drifting clump of seaweed as it forages near the sea floor. Weedy sea dragons are more colorful creatures with interesting paddle-shaped fins. Despite their different body shapes, each species has an undeniably dragon-like face!

    Sea dragons are usually only kept in large public aquariums because they are rare and require specialized care.

    11. Lionfish

    Lionfish
    • Scientific Name: Pterois spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 18 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 – 125 gallons, depending on the species
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Tropical regions of the Atlantic, Pacific, and Indian Oceans
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Possible, but will consume smaller fish and invertebrates
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    There are several similar species of lionfish distributed in tropical waters across the globe, each with beard-like growths and huge spiky fins like a dragon’s wings.

    These striking fish are usually red and white in color and are also known as firefish. Lionfish are popular aquarium pets, although they are venomous, so they should never be handled.

    12. Pacific Blackdragon

    • Scientific Name: Idiacanthus antrostomus
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Size: 2 feet
    • Origin: West Coast of North America
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The Pacific Black Dragon is a deepsea fish that lives several thousand feet below the surface in the cold, dark waters of the Eastern Pacific. These sea monsters have a mouth full of sharp fangs and a beard-like growth under their jaws that gives them a real dragon-like look!

    13. Blue Sea Dragon

    Blue-Sea-Dragon
    • Scientific Name: Glaucus atlanticus
    • Diet: Carnivore that feeds on jellyfish and other venomous sea creatures
    • Size: about 1 inch
    • Origin: Recorded off Africa, Europe, Asia, Australia, North and South America
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The blue sea dragon is a stunning sea animal that lives at the surface of the ocean in many parts of the world. These bright blue creatures are not actually fish but rather a type of carnivorous mollusk.

    Unfortunately, these sea slugs cannot be kept in a home aquarium, but they are sometimes found washed up on beaches. If you do spot a blue sea dragon, don’t be tempted to touch it; these animals give a painful sting!

    14. Dragonets

    Healthy Mandarin Goby
    • Scientific Name: Synchiropus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: usually about 3 inches, but some species grow up to 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on copepods and other live invertebrates
    • Origin: Indo-pacific
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Dragonets are small tropical reef fish with dazzling colors. Several species of these goby-like fish are available in the hobby, although they are best left to experienced and dedicated reef keepers who can provide a steady supply of live copepods.

    15. Giant Oarfish

    • Scientific Name: Regalecus glesne
    • Diet: Carnivorous filter feeder
    • Size: Can exceed 30 feet!
    • Origin: Worldwide in temperate and tropical oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The giant oarfish is the world’s longest fish and a true sea monster of the deep. These serpent-like fish have a spiky red crest and long tassel-like fins below their heads that make them look just like a dragon!

    Despite their fearsome appearance, giant oarfish are not aggressive fish and actually feed on tiny sea creatures that they filter out of the water.

    16. Deep Sea Anglerfish

    Deep Sea Female Angler Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanocetus johnsonii etc.
    • Diet: Carnivores
    • Size: 1 – 6 inches
    • Origin: Widespread in tropical and temperate oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    The humpback anglerfish is a terrifying deep-sea fish that looks like something straight out of a nightmare. These fascinating creatures grow to about 6 inches, so they’re actually just miniature monsters from the deep.

    The deepsea anglerfish has impressive fangs and a huge mouth for capturing small fish and other unfortunate sea creatures. They may not breathe fire, but these deepsea dragon fish do have a glowing lure on the end of a stalk that attracts their prey within striking distance.

    17. Seahorses

    Seahorse Couple
    • Scientific Name: Hippocampus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Up to 13 inches depending on the species
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons for smaller species
    • Diet: Carnivorous, eats live crustaceans
    • Origin: Widespread in warm, shallow coastal areas
    • Temperature: 72-78 °F
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Seahorses may be named after common farm animals, but if you look a little closer, these adorable creatures have a striking resemblance to miniature dragons! These little fish from the Syngnathidae family have spiky, elongated bodies, spiny crests, and long snouts that make them look nothing like a regular fish.

    Seahorses are small and peaceful creatures that inhabit shallow coastal waters around the world where they hunt tiny crustaceans. They are slow swimmers that prefer to grasp onto seaweed and other structures with their prehensile tails than fight against strong sea currents.

    Several captive-bred seahorse species are available in the aquarium hobby, and they make fascinating display animals for dedicated fishkeepers. Avoid wild-caught specimens because they are difficult to keep without live food.

    18. Stoplight Loosejaw

    • Scientific Name: Malacosteus sp.
    • Diet: Carnivore, feeds on marine invertebrates and other fish
    • Size: Reaches 10 inches
    • Origin: Worldwide in deep oceans
    • Available in the hobby: No

    Stoplight loosejaws are deep-sea-dwellers that live thousands of feet below the surface in total darkness. They have evolved the incredible ability to produce green and red light from special organs in their jaw, which they can use to find their prey in the darkness.

    These scary dragon fish have tiny tails, long, sharp teeth, and huge jaws. However, they only live below about 1,500 feet and grow to less than a foot long, so you have nothing to fear next time you visit the beach!

    19. Teugelsi Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus teugelsi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Up to 25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons for full-grown specimens
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on invertebrates and other fish
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Temperature: 77-82 °F

    The Teugelsi bichir is a rare but fascinating freshwater fish that looks like a dragon. These prehistoric forest-dwellers have prominent scales and a spiky dorsal fin just like a mythical fire-breathing monster!

    The species is occasionally seen for sale in the aquarium trade and makes an interesting pet for fishkeepers with large tanks. Like other bichirs, these fish are carnivorous and will snack on other fish at night when they come out to feed.

    20. Mottled Bichir

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus weeksii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: Grows to about 23 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons for a full-grown specimen
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Central Africa
    • Temperature: 76 – 82 °F

    Here’s another freshwater dragon fish for all the bichir lovers out there. The mottled bichir is a fascinating predatory species from Africa with an intimidating scaly appearance.

    These rare nocturnal fish need a high-protein diet to stay healthy, so they are not recommended for a community aquarium with smaller tank mates! They are very hardy fish that can breathe air and even travel over land in moist conditions.

    21. Scorpionfish

    • Scientific Name: Scorpaenidae family
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches to 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons + depending on species
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feeds on other fish and small sea creatures
    • Origin: Widespread in marine and brackish habitats
    • Temperature: Species dependent
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Scorpionfish are a large group of bizarre saltwater fish with dragon-like features and a venomous spine. These carnivorous fish often have amazing camouflage, which they rely on to ambush their prey. Many species are available for marine aquariums, but be warned, some of these fish are very dangerous!

    22. Koi

    Koi
    • Scientific Name: Cyprinus carpio
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: Over 2 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 1500 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 59 – 77 °F

    The famous Koi fish is seen as a noble creature in Japan. There is a legend that states that if a Koi climbed the waterfall on the Yellow River that it would turn into a Koi Dragon.

    The most similar looking Koi to be found in the hobby that looks like a dragon would be a butterfly koi. Though not considered a true koi by many purist, their fins give them that flying look.

    Final Thoughts

    Dragons do exist! Maybe not the flying, firebreathing kind you’ve seen in the movies, but there’s plenty of weird and wonderful dragon fish swimming around out there. Some of these amazing animals even thrive in fish tanks, so who knows, you could even keep a dragon in your own room.

    Which fish do you think most resembles a real-life dragon? Share your top pick in the comments below!

  • Hermit Crab Care: My 7-Step Guide After Years of Keeping Them in Saltwater Setups

    Hermit Crab Care: My 7-Step Guide After Years of Keeping Them in Saltwater Setups

    Hermit crabs need humidity, heat, salt water, fresh water, and shell options. Most pet store setups provide none of these things properly.

    Everything sold in a pet store hermit crab kit is wrong. Start from scratch.

    If your crab has no way to climb out of the water, your setup is wrong.

    The Hermit Crab needs a paludarium-style setup with both land and water access. That is a different kind of maintenance commitment than a standard aquarium.

    Crabs are escape artists with opinions. If your lid has a gap, they will find it.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Hermit Crab

    The Hermit Crab is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

    Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Hermit Crab learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

    Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

    Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

    Key Takeaways

    • A spacious, natural habitat with a deep sand and coconut fiber substrate is critical for hermit crabs to dig, molt, and feel at home.
    • Hermit crabs need a carefully controlled environment. Maintain temps between 72-82°F and relative humidity between 60-80% for their health and comfort.
    • Hermit crabs thrive socially and need spare shells and companions to swap shells with, but avoid painted shells due to toxicity.
    • The Reality of Keeping Hermit Crab
    • What It Is Actually Like Living With Hermit Crab

    The Reality of Keeping Hermit Crab

    Most crabs are semi-terrestrial. A fully submerged tank is a death sentence for most freshwater and brackish crabs. They need land access, humidity, and the ability to climb above the waterline. A paludarium-style setup is the only correct approach for most species.

    Escape prevention is a daily concern. Crabs climb everything. Heater cords, filter intakes, airline tubing, tank decorations. If there is a path to the rim, they will find it. A tight-fitting lid with no gaps is mandatory.

    Aggression is always present. Crabs are territorial and will fight other crabs, eat small fish, and destroy plants. Tankmate selection is limited and must be carefully planned.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Keeping crabs in a fully aquatic setup without land access. Most freshwater crabs need to leave the water regularly. Without a dry area, they drown. Yes, crabs can drown.

    Expert Take

    Build the land area first, then add the water section. If you start with water and try to add land later, you will redesign the entire setup. Trust me on this.

    Before You Get Started

    • A glass tank – at least 10 gallons in size
    • Screen lid with clips or an aquarium lid
    • Heater source – under tank heater or a heat lamp
    • Water declorinator/ water conditioner
    • Substrate
    • 2 water bowls for salt and freshwater that is deep enough for them to submerge into
    • Thermometer and Hygrometer
    • Extra shells – same size and larger than what the crab already has
    • Food bowl
    • Hand Mister – or electric fogger
    • Calcium source – Cuttle, crushed coral, or egg shells

    Hermit Crab Care In 7 Simple Steps

    Aquarium Example

    Hermit crabs, sometimes known as land crabs, are intriguing creatures found in tropical habitats. To make sure they live comfortably and healthily at home, they need the right habitat with enough food for them to munch on plus empty shells that hermits naturally need. Setting up an ideal environment suitable for these little crustaceans before bringing them into our homes is essential.

    Step 1 – The Tank

    To create a great living space properly equipped for your tiny companions, here’s what you should know: prepare spacious surroundings where the crabs can move around freely like their natural setting, choose bedding options accordingly, never forget to provide sufficient amounts of food such as fruits or vegetables along with several available empty shells. The ideal tank for a hermit crab will be 10 gallons for small crabs, but tanks as large as 75 gallons are preferred for fully grown hermits and for community of them.

    🏆 Mark’s Take: Of all 7 steps, the tank is the one most beginners get wrong. Specifically the size. I’ve seen hermit crabs kept in enclosures way too small for their needs. A 10-gallon is the bare minimum for a small group, and bigger is always better. They need space to explore, forage, and molt safely without being disturbed. Skimping on the tank size is the fastest way to stress them out and shorten their lifespan.

    Your tank must be secured with a lid or a mesh cover. All hermit crabs are great climbers and are strong for their size. The lid must be secured as hermits have been known to pop up the lids on their own. A heat resistant cover is preferred either use a glass cover used in aquariums or a cover designed for reptiles.

    Step 2 – Selecting The Right Substrate

    Hermit crabs need an ideal habitat that contains a mix of sand and coconut fiber (also known as eco earth) for their bed, playground and dining area. A 5:1 mix of sand and coconut fiber is a popular mix among keepers.

    This substrate should be 6-12 inches deep at least. Three times higher than its largest crab occupant to permit burrowing comfortably when needed. Introducing drainage components is essential in keeping air circulation high so these hermits can breathe properly while helping retain moisture levels.

    Step 3 – Temperature Control

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    To keep hermit crabs warm and happy, an under tank heater such as ultratherm heat pads is ideal. By maintaining a consistent temperature of 78°F or above with the help of a heater, these low wattage density elements provide just enough warmth to their habitat without getting too hot. Proper temperatures between 78-85°F are what you should shoot for.

    Note that some species can tolerate lower temperatures. Purple pinchers are a good example as they can tolerate lower temperatures down to 75 degrees Fahrenheit.

    ⚠️ Temperature Is the Silent Killer: In my experience, temperature issues are the most common reason hermit crabs die without an obvious cause. People set up the enclosure and forget that these animals need consistently warm conditions. Drop below 72°F for any extended period and you’ll start losing them. An under-tank heater is not optional. Don’t rely on room temperature alone, especially in cooler months.

    Step 4 – Understand Your Humidity Requirements

    Maintaining a correct humidity level is essential for hermit crabs’ survival. This should be somewhere between 60-80% as this environment encourages them to thrive. To check the moisture levels, you could use an electronic hygrometer. If the humidity drops too low, it can lead to the suffocation of these animals.

    Step 5 – Feeding And Nutrition

    Feeding-Hermit-Crabs

    Hermit crabs enjoy a range of foods from insects to plant matter. They are omnivores and scavengers in nature. Here are a few hermit crab food selections you can offer on the menu:

    • Fruits – mange, apple, bananas, grapes
    • Protein Sources – Insects (mealworms), seafood, beef (beef lung/beef tripe
    • Vegetables – Oak/Maple leaves, carrots, squash, tomatoes

    Step 6 – Water Essentials

    Hermit crabs need special water dishes filled with an ocean salt mix to ensure the biggest crab can submerge. For the saltwater bowl, this must be prepared with a marine salt mix that should be of similar saliny than you would have for a saltwater tank (1.025 salinity or 35 PPT).

    These deep bowls also create perfect little ‘crab digs’ by giving them access to moisture while keeping their environment humidified. All water must be treated for chlorine using a declorinator like Seachem prime

    Step 7 – Provide Proper Shells

    You will need 3 to 5 shells per crab. They must be slightly larger than what the crab is currently wearing. Look for something natural. You can purchase shells at craft stores or even online. The ideal shell is a circular or oval shaped opening and should be sterilized before adding to their habitant. As long as shells are natural, you should be good to go.

    What To Avoid Doing

    Want a fully aquatic invertebrate? Get shrimp. Want a semi-terrestrial paludarium project? Get crabs. The setup is completely different.

    • Don’t offer painted or glazed shells – these are dangerous and toxic to your crab!
    • Do not feed any plant matter that has been treated with pesticides. Hermits are very sensitive to treated plants.
    • Never add tap water directly into your crabs bowl
    • Never use non-marine grade salt when making your saltwater bowls
    • Avoid anything chrome in the tank. Nickel, arsenci, and cadmium are also highly toxic to them. Research what your decor is made of to avoid any issues. Natural is your friend!
    • Avoid iron and other rust prone items – humidity will make metals prone to rust

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCoenobita clypeatus (Caribbean hermit crab) and Coenobita compressus (Ecuadorian hermit crab)
    Common NamesHermit Crab, Land Hermit Crabs
    FamilyCoenobitidae
    OriginCaribbean
    Skill LevelModerate
    Average Life Span10 years
    Average Adult Size2-6 inches
    DietOmnivorne
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallon tank
    Humidity Range70% to 85%
    Temperature Range75 – 85 degrees F

    Social Dynamics

    Group-Hermit-Crabs

    Hermit crabs, despite the moniker they’ve been given, are quite social creatures and enjoy being part of a group. As each crab needs around five to ten spare shells for growth over their lifespan as well as exchanging them on occasion. It’s essential that small hermit crabs have access to hiding places for comfort when in groups.

    One great thing about hermits is that their size doesn’t matter. Unlike fish where you have to worry about little fish getting eaten by larger ones, your hermits will not care. Aggression will occur if you do not have enough shells around for everyone. Other than that concern, hermit crabs love to be around each other.

    However, hermits should only be housed with other hermits. Do not mix them with reptiles or amphibians. Quarantining before release hermit crabs to their new environment is recommended. Do so for a month for each addition to prevent mites (more on this later).

    Health and Safety Practices

    Taking care of your pet hermit crab is not difficult. While molting, it’s best for them to have some space away from the other crabs so they can do it safely and without interruption.

    You will deal with issues humidity related such as mold. Remove mold as soon as you see it and allow the affected decoration to completely dry before adding them back.

    Pests are your main issue with hermit crabs, not so much disease. Heat and humidity will attract pests like mites, isopods, and fruit flies. Mites is prevented by quarantining new additions. Fruit flies is eliminated with the use of a non-toxic trap.

    Maintenance And Upkeep of the Habitat

    Hermits are amazingly simple to keep. Your main daily concerns aside from feeding will be humidity and heat. Here are a few things that you should do routinely.

    DailyWeeklyMonthly
    Check temperatureClean out water bowlsChange water (for cycled water)
    Check humidityClean out decor
    Remove uneaten food

    Closing Thoughts

    Caring for hermit crabs may seem intimidating, but it is incredibly rewarding and enriching when done right. A successful experience is determined by creating an adequate home environment to suit the crustaceans’ needs as well as comprehending their social behaviors, nutrition requirements and dietary habits. It’s more than just meeting these fundamentals though. In order to gain a deep understanding of your hermit crab’s individual personality quirks, you must learn about them through observation. Embark on this unique journey with the helpful guidance needed to become true pet parents!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are hermit crabs easy to take care of?

    Hermit crabs are relatively easy to look after, since they’ve adapted to survive on land and can live for up to 15 years when cared for properly. These creatures appreciate company, so owning several of them is recommended.

    Do hermit crabs recognize their owner?

    Hermit crabs have the remarkable ability to learn and recognize their owners’ voices, and even come when called by name. It’s quite astonishing how these particular kinds of crab can form such a strong bond with human companions.

    How many hermit crabs should be kept together?

    Hermit crabs should be housed together in pairs or small groups with no fewer than 10 gallons of space for each two hermits, so they can prosper.

    How do you take care of a hermit crab for beginners?

    If you’re a beginner looking to keep hermit crabs, make sure that their environment has the correct temperature (75-85 degrees) using either heaters or lamps and also maintain humidity at 70-85% by spraying dechlorinated water in its tank. Light needs to be present for 8-12 hours each day with fluorescent/LED bulbs but avoid UVB lighting as it is too strong.

    Can hermit crabs eat lettuce?

    Hermit crabs can consume romaine lettuce as a nutritional supplement and enjoyable treat alongside other fruits and vegetables. These little crustaceans require essential vitamins that the nutrient-rich plant matter found in these foods offer them, making it an integral part of their diet.

    References

  • How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums: What I’ve Learned From My Betta Tanks

    How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums: What I’ve Learned From My Betta Tanks

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Key Takeaways

    • Lucky Bamboo is not a true bamboo species, but a resilient and adaptable aquatic plant that improves water quality and provides hiding places for fish in freshwater aquariums.
    • To ensure Lucky Bamboo thrives in an aquarium, it must be partially submerged, provided with the right water conditions using dechlorinated water, moderate CO2 levels, and placed in a substrate with low to moderate indirect light.
    • Regular care for Lucky Bamboo includes proper pruning to promote growth, cautious fertilization, and it is easily propagated in water to expand your underwater garden.

    Before You Get Started

    • At least a 5 gallon tank (this is the minimum size for any fish you keep)
    • Strong filtration unit
    • Active nutrient rich substrate
    • Freshwater tank that is rimless (so the plant leaves is outside of the tank
    • Plant scissors (seek out outdoor garden sheers for stems
    • Liquid CO2 or a CO2 system

    How To Grow Lucky Bamboo In Aquariums: Step By Step

    1. Preparing Your Aquarium

    Including Lucky Bamboo into your aquarium is quite exciting. There are few things to take note of for a successful start and sustained growth in this environment. Placement is important. The best way to get optimum use out of it would be at either corner or background regions. The plant cannot be completely submerged. Partially submerge lucky bamboo and have the leaves outside of the water. Leaves not submerged will discolor and rot, leading to stunted development and ammonia production in the aquarium. Moderate-high carbon dioxide levels will provide optimal conditions so that the plant thrives well inside an aquarium setting with ease, especially if you plan to keep other plants.

    2. Get Substrate And Lighting Right

    When it comes to growing Lucky Bamboo in an aquarium, two major factors have to be considered: substrate and lighting. An effective mix of gravel and aquatic plant soil should make up the three-inch deep base for the bamboo’s roots so they can anchor securely while also accessing nutrients. There are multiple active substrates available in the hobby that will work or if you want to go the cheaper route you can consider an organic dirted substrate.

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    As far as light is concerned, lucky bamboo does best when exposed to indirect bright or moderate illumination. Different levels will still work, but not quite optimally.

    3. Planting

    Illustration Of Planting In Aquarium

    If you’re ready to plant Lucky Bamboo in the aquarium, there are some steps that will help it take root and grow. To plant the bamboo: create small holes for each stem, place each of them carefully into these prepared spots, cover all of them with substrate, pressing gently afterwords.

    Whether growing fully submerged or partially so (just top parts above water surface), this type of bamboo is suitable for an aquarium environment as long as care instructions like proper lighting and nutrition are followed properly.

    🏆 Mark’s Take: This is the single most important rule I’ve learned from growing lucky bamboo in betta tanks. Keep the leaves above the waterline at all times. The roots is fully submerged, but the moment the foliage goes underwater it starts to rot. Once that happens it degrades water quality fast, which is the last thing you want in a betta setup. Position your stalks so the green growth always clears the surface.

    4. Position Stalks Correctly for Success

    For a flourishing Lucky Bamboo, it is important to position the stalks properly. An improper arrangement may lead to decomposition and rotting of the plant, which can cause toxins in your aquarium water that is dangerous for its inhabitants. You should ensure that only the leafy portion remains out of water. If you submerge this part even for just a couple of weeks, decay will occur quickly. To keep things neat and trim, it’s acceptable to snip off some excess leaves on certain stalks where needed.

    5. Feed And Fertilize Your Plant

    The Lucky Bamboo plant needs several nutrients to thrive, mostly found in the water where it is placed. If kept in soil, you should fertilize this plant every 6-8 weeks and 3-6 times a year if planted inside liquid form. There are many liquid fertilizers like Easy Green or APT Complete that work great.

    ⚠️ The Two Mistakes That Kill Lucky Bamboo: First, as covered above. Submerged leaves rot quickly and foul your water. Second, people forget to fertilize. Lucky bamboo is a heavy feeder relative to true aquatic plants. Without regular fertilization it yellows, stalls, and eventually dies back. Use a liquid fertilizer dosed at the recommended rate and don’t skip it. It’s not optional if you want long-term growth.

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    Yet be careful not to overfertilize as there are certain signs that may appear such as yellowed leaves, burnt roots, deformed foliage or stunted growth. Your main nutrients to monitor with this plant will be nitrate and phosphates, both of which is monitored with aquarium test kits.

    6. Prune As Needed

    Looking after Lucky Bamboo requires regular pruning in order to maintain its appearance, size and health. The most efficient way to trim the bamboo stalks is by making a cut just above the nodes using scissors, shears or a clean knife for better results. Pruning not only keeps your lucky bamboo plant looking as you desire, but also stimulates new growth while avoiding legginess and reaching an excessive height.

    Don’t be afraid of giving it some snipping every once in a while. Maintaining with good old fashioned pruning can make wonders on these aquarium plants.

    7. Maintain Water Parameters

    If you want to give your Lucky Bamboo the best possible start, then location is important but there’s more than that. You need water conditions which will enable it to flourish. The ideal option for this would be RO or distilled water as these don’t have any added chemicals like chlorine in them and are exactly what lucky bamboo prefers (though keep TDS level in mind for fish – more on that later in the post).

    If tap water is all you have available. Remember to dechlorinate first. A good dechlorator like SeaPrime does wonders.

    Pro Tips

    • If a stem turns yellow – remove it immediately. When they turn yellow, the roots can spread fungus and kill the rest of your plant
    • Keep in bright indirect light with good ventilation
    • Select healthy stalks when purchasing. There should be no yellowing. Trim the bamboo roots before planting to encourage new growth

    What To Avoid Doing

    • Never keep the leaves for your lucky bamboo submerged. They will decay and leech ammonia into your aquarium
    • Do not place your plant in direct sunlight. Indirect sunlight works and direct sunlight will encourage algae growth in the aquarium. Face leaves away from lighting and sunlight
    • Don’t overheat the tank. This plant does well in water temperature under 80 degrees and will do well in room temperature waters. They can go as low as 65 degrees F, which should accommodate nearly all fish in the hobby except for very warm water fish like Discus or Rams
    • Do not use gravel only. This plant needs nutrients in the soil. Considered a dirted substrate or active substrate, then cap with gravel.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameDracaena sanderiana
    Common NamesLucky Bamboo, Ribbon Dracaena
    FamilyAsparagaceae
    OriginCentral Africa
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingLow To Moderate
    Tank PlacementBackground
    Flow RateLow to moderate
    Temperature Range65-80° F
    HeightUp to 3 feet
    pH Range6.0 – 7.5
    PropagationCuttings
    Growth RateSlow to Moderate
    Feed TypeColumn and Root Feeder
    CO2 RequirementNo

    Lucky Bamboo, which is also known as Dracaena sanderiana by scientists, has become popular among aquarium owners. It’s a hearty and durable plant that can endure for days or weeks without care, an ideal choice to spruce up any fish tank! Its name might make you think it’s true bamboo, but in reality this species from Central Africa is actually more related to the lilies found outdoors.

    An advantage of using Lucky Bamboo over other types of aquatic plants like those needing direct sunlight lies in its origin – tropical rainforests where no extra light source was needed making it suitable for enclosed tanks housing freshwater dwellers. Plus, it helps improve water quality.

    Lucky Bamboo vs. True Bamboo

    Regular BambooLucky Bamboo
    FamilyPoaceaeAsparagaceae
    AppearanceThick rhizome grows very fast (up to 2 feet a day)Light green leaves
    StemHollowFleshy and full
    SizeOver 100 feet39 inches
    Grows in Aquarium?NoYes

    For those curious as to how Lucky Bamboo differs from genuine bamboo, the differences are plenty. Compared to real bamboo native to Southeastern and Southern Asia that can grow up to 9 inches daily, Lucky Bamboo only takes 6 months on average to reach 19 inches. True bamboo are plants pandas eat. If you place true bamboo in your tank, it will rot, leech ammonia, and kill your fish.

    Lucky bamboo on the other hand thrives with whatever water conditions you put it under makes ideal for various aquarium setups providing hiding spots not just for decoration, but also safety aiding the environment overall within an aquatic habitat. They are harmless to aquatic animals even when ingested by fish who dwell among them!

    Straight Or Twisted Varieties?

    When you go shopping for these bamboo plants, you will notice there are straight stalk and twisted varieties. A technique is used to grow the plant in a twisted pattern, which adds to the aesthetics. Aside from fitting the plant in the aquarium and being able to plant more densely, there is no other significant difference I have seen from each variety that makes one better than the other. Just pick the one you like best. For me, since I like to plant densely with these, I lean on the straight stalk types.

    Propagating Lucky Bamboo

    For those looking to expand their lucky bamboo collection without additional purchases, the plant’s ease of propagation is a major advantage. The process starts with taking stem cuttings from its parent and ensuring that clean cuts are made, paying attention to avoid jagged edges. To increase the success rate, it is advised to put these cuttings into water rather than planting them directly in soil. This simple technique yields an abundance of luscious bamboo plants for all gardening needs!

    Tank Mates

    Bettas

    Having the right companions in your aquarium can provide Lucky Bamboo with an environment it enjoys. Compatible aquatic creatures, such as:

    Shrimp work great too!

    When selecting tank mates for bamboo in your aquarium, there should be some caution taken. Like avoiding crayfish or freshwater crab species which could uproot them. Some fish to avoid would be:

    Where To Get Them

    This is one of the few plants I’ll blog about that I will encourage you to purchase at a local garden supply store. They are far cheaper at garden shops; you can find both the twisted and straight varieties. Just clean them before planting as they may have been planted in soil. Otherwise, they are no different from purchasing at a local fish store – aside from the price (as they are much cheaper at garden stores).

    Conclusion

    Adding Lucky Bamboo to your home aquarium is both an enriching and rewarding experience. With its special qualities, flexible nature, and significance in many cultures, it brings a unique green charm to any aquatic setting. Caring for the bamboo correctly by maintaining proper water parameters, lighting conditions, and supplying nutrients helps make sure that you’re growing healthy lucky bamboo plants. So why not give it a try today fish keepers? Regular pruning will ensure your success with this interesting addition too!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Here are some FAQs I’ve gotten from readers. Is our question missing? Let a comment below this blog post and I’ll get back to you!

    Can you put lucky bamboo in fish tank?

    Lucky bamboo is a great choice for aquariums as it can both improve the appearance and provide other benefits such as reducing nitrate levels in the water, while at the same time increasing oxygen. Regular bamboo would not be suitable to put into fish tanks Lucky bamboo has adapted so that it will thrive underwater.

    Can bamboo be fully submerged in aquarium?

    Lucky bamboo, also known as water bamboo, cannot be fully submerged. The leaves should not be kept otherwater as they will rot away and leech ammonia into your tank. The rest of the plant is submerged, but the leaves cannot.

    Can lucky bamboo be kept in water?

    This particular type of bamboo, known as lucky bamboo, is a great indoor plant choice because it is kept in water with minimal upkeep. To keep the root system healthy and thriving, though, use filtered or distilled water when watering this beloved plant.

    What kind of lighting does Lucky Bamboo need in an aquarium?

    For healthy growth and appealing looks, it is important to give lucky bamboo in an aquarium bright yet indirect lighting. Moderation is key here! To attain the best results for your bamboo, make sure that they are exposed to moderate amounts of luminosity coming from a source that does not directly point at them. Ambient light also works, but be careful of too much exposure to the tank itself as it may promote algae growth.

    How can I propagate Lucky Bamboo?

    The propagation of Lucky Bamboo is possible by obtaining a neat stem cutting from the original plant and immersing it in water. This action can facilitate the growth of roots, ultimately culminating to be an entirely new bamboo plant! Not only that, but this process keeps all aspects intact like facts regarding lucky bamboo as well as its tone.

    Is Lucky Bamboo A Flowering Plant?

    Yes it is, however, it is not common to see it flower in cultivation. It mostly blooms in the wild. They can bloom in aquariums after several years, but the blooms will be small and insignificant.

  • Bala Shark Tank Mates: My 15 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Bala Shark Tank Mates: My 15 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Bala Shark tank mates need to handle the same large tank, tolerate a fast schooling fish, and not be small enough to eat.

    Bala shark tank mates need to be large enough not to become food. That eliminates most community fish.

    While these fish are not true sharks, they grow to some impressive sizes. It wasn’t until lately that hobbyists discovered the true care requirements that bala sharks have in the aquarium setting. If you’re able to properly house one of these monster freshwater fish, then you’ll need to consider some of the best tank mates.

    Key Takeaways

    • Bala sharks are large freshwater fish that can live with a variety of other fish.
    • These unique fish are named after their iridescent silver torpedo-shaped bodies with jet-black fins.
    • The best bala shark tank mates are ones that are moderately sized and active. Examples include Angelfish, Severums, and Tiger barbs.
    • Sadly, natural bala shark populations are decreasing, and they are rarely bred in the aquarium hobby.

    The 15 Best Bala Shark Tank Mates

    Such a large fish needs special consideration when choosing tank mates. Bala shark tank mates should be big, active, and able to withstand semi-aggressive and sometimes predatory behavior, especially during feeding times. All recommended minimum tank sizes have been adjusted to accommodate a school of bala sharks and other tank mates.

    1. Other Bala Sharks

    Bala-Shark
    • Scientific Name: Balantiocheilus melanopterus
    • Adult Size: 1-2 feet
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    The best tank mates for bala sharks are other bala sharks! You read that right, these fish do best when they’re kept with their own species.

    ⚠️ The Biggest Mistake With Bala Sharks: Most people don’t realize what they’re committing to when they buy juveniles. Bala Sharks are semi-aggressive, need a group of at least 5 to feel secure and behave properly, and grow large enough that adults need a 150+ gallon tank. I only kept them at the store for exactly this reason. They’re not practical for most home setups. If you can’t commit to both the school size and the tank space, this is the wrong fish.

    While widely available, bala sharks actually come from pretty unique ecosystems where other freshwater aquarium fish aren’t regularly collected. Instead, other monster fish, like the iridescent shark (Pangasianodon hypophthalmus), are collected and kept in extremely large systems or public aquariums. This can make it difficult to pair bala sharks with other endemic species.

    Bala sharks also enjoy the company of each other. They is shy and skittish when the only shark in the tank, and being in the company of others increases their confidence. Keep in mind that an overly bold bala shark can become semi-aggressive and might even try to eat smaller fish.

    2. Gouramis

    Gold-Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Helostomatidae family/Osphronemidae family
    • Adult Size: 6-20 inches
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125-250 gallons

    Dwarf gouramis (Trichogaster lalius) are some of the most popular fish to keep in community tanks. We’re going to need something a little bigger than a dwarf gourami, though.

    There are many species of gourami, some of which grow to extreme sizes, making them a great bala shark tank mate! Two of these species are kissing gouramis and giant gouramis.

    Kissing gouramis (Helostoma temminckii) are not recommended for community fish tanks but make suitable tank mates for bala sharks. Kissing gouramis is somewhat territorial, so it’s best to keep your bala sharks in decently sized schools and provide plenty of hiding spots.

    The giant gourami (Osphronemus goramy) is a huge fish that requires at least 250 gallons. While these fish are often slow and sluggish and unlikely to chase after more active swimmers, like the bala shark, they may defend their territory if needed. Because of this, it’s best to keep the bala sharks in larger numbers and with plenty of rocks and decorations.

    3. Angelfish

    <a href=Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-551860″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pterophyllum spp.
    • Adult Size: 4-6 inches
    • pH: 6.0-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 75-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Angelfish are a very popular option as bala shark tank mates. Though bala sharks are active swimmers and angelfish are not, these two species seem to balance each other out. As a result, the angelfish and bala sharks will start to float and swim together in the middle of the water column.

    There are many species of angelfish available. The common Pterophyllum scalare can reach a large enough size to complement a bala’s length. These fish come in nearly every color combination, which can accent the shine of the sharks. If you’re looking for a real fishkeeping challenge, then you may opt for the expensive and difficult-to-keep altum angel (Pterophyllum altum), which also grow to larger sizes.

    Angelfish do best when kept in small groups of the same species. If planning to keep larger species of angel, then it’s recommended to have at least a 150 gallon aquarium.

    4. Clown Loach

    Clown-Loach
    • Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracantha
    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • pH: 6.0-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    One of the most common tank mates for bala sharks is the clown loach. For decades, these fish were kept in overly small community tanks where they couldn’t thrive. While care requirement understanding has changed for these two different species, it’s still agreed that they make a great tank mate pairing.

    Clown loaches have very similar temperaments to bala sharks and can grow to relatively the same size. In addition, clown loaches are schooling fish which will help shyer bala sharks come out to the front of the tank.

    While clown loaches might seem like smaller fish, they can still grow to be a foot in length. They originate from fast-flowing rivers and need good water circulation, but not so much that your bala shark school gets pushed around the aquarium.

    5. Blood Parrot Cichlid

    Blood Parrots in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Cichlidae hybrid
    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 75-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Blood parrots are a hybrid type of cichlid. This means that they will display aggressive behavior towards overly active or small fish; an especially large blood parrot cichlid may also try to eat smaller fish. Because of this, it’s recommended to only keep appropriately sized bala sharks with these fish.

    Otherwise, a blood parrot cichlid will bring a ton of color to a bala shark tank. They are not overly active swimmers, which can help calm shy and skittish bala sharks.

    It should be also noted that, because they’re hybrids, blood parrot size can greatly vary. It’s better to go with a larger tank than necessary, not only to allow for potential size and bioload but also to safely keep multiple parrots with multiple sharks.

    6. Severum

    Severum Cichlid Fish
    • Scientific Name: Heros severus
    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches
    • pH: 6.0-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    A true species of cichlid, severums are one of the most popular fish to keep in the freshwater aquarium and make good tank mates for bala sharks. Severums are a relatively peaceful species of South American cichlid. They are much more forgiving of other fish than most cichlids.

    However, multiple severums do not do well when placed together in the same tank, especially if the aquarium is small. In certain settings, breeding pairs of severums is safely kept. Bala sharks are probably too active for a pair of severums aggressively defending their nest and territory, though. For this reason, we only recommend keeping one severum alongside bala sharks.

    7. Geophagus Cichlids

    Geophagus
    • Scientific Name: Geophagus spp.
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Another South American cichlid, geophagus are natural-looking fish that can vary in appearance. These fish are mostly a mixture of silvers, blues, and greens, with males being more colorful and ornate than females.

    Along with appearance, aggression can vary with geophagus species. It is believed that Geophagus altifrons is one of the least aggressive species available. These fish enjoy their own species and being in schools of at least 6 or more, but some hobbyists have kept multiple species together in the same tank as long as space allows.

    8. Tinfoil Barbs

    Tinfoil Barb
    • Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 feet
    • pH: 6.5-7.0
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

    Tinfoil barbs are very large barbs from Southeast Asia. These fish are not commonly seen available in the normal freshwater fish hobby but are a favorite among monster fishkeepers. These fish grow to extreme sizes as a barb species, and feature a simple silver color with black and red angular fins.

    Tinfoil barbs are schooling fish and need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Because bala sharks are also schoolers and share a similar demeanor, an especially large tank is needed. If keeping only these two species, then a 150 gallon is needed. Keeping different species would require a several hundred gallon system.

    9. Tiger Barbs

    Tiger-Barb
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Adult Size: 2-4 inches
    • pH: 6.0-7.0
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    In addition to the clown loach and bala shark pairing, the tiger barb and bala shark aquarium setup was inescapable for years. Tiger barbs are a very popular community tank shoaling fish and do best when kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Since bala sharks need a large aquarium, hobbyists can easily fit dozens of barbs in a 125 gallon system while still allowing for other species as well.

    It should be noted that tiger barbs is especially nippy and might try to chase and harass slower-moving fish. For the most part, bala sharks should be able to outpower and navigate around, especially feisty barbs, but additional protection through plants and structures will help keep aggression down.

    🏆 My Top Pick: Tiger Barbs are my go-to recommendation for a Bala Shark tank. They’re large enough not to be eaten, active enough to match the Bala’s energy, and this pairing has been a staple in the hobby for decades for good reason. Keep your Tiger Barbs in a school of 6+ and their nippy behavior stays in check. A big group keeps them focused on each other rather than harassing tank mates.

    10. Boesemani Rainbowfish

    Boesemani-Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanotaenia boesemani
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Bosemani rainbowfish are very different in comparison to bala sharks by way of appearance, natural habitat, and behavior, but this unusual pairing seems to work. In general, bosemani are a larger species of tropical fish that fills an aquarium with bright colors and movement. This is in contrast to slow but steady iridescent bala sharks.

    There is one consideration that needs to be taken when keeping bosemani rainbowfish as tank mates, though, and that is that they enjoy slightly harder and more basic water parameters. As long as both the bala sharks and bosemani rainbows have been kept in standard aquarium water conditions, then there should be no need for acclimation. You can also check out Emerald Rainbowfish as another option

    11. Plecos

    Blue-Eye-Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Hypostomus plecostomus
    • Adult Size: 1-2 feet
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 75-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

    We don’t recommend plecos as any tank mate option, but they do well in a large bala shark setup. Like bala sharks, common plecos have been long misunderstood fish regarding their behaviors and potential adult size. Plecos are huge fish that create a lot of waste! They can also easily injure and kill smaller fish by trying to suck the slime coat off their body.

    For this reason, only one common pleco is recommended for a 150 gallon aquarium setup. While particularly aggressive plecos may still try to suck on the sides of bala sharks, balas will be faster and better protected in a school setting. Mid-sized plecos can also be considered.

    12. Silver Dollars

    Common Silver Dollar
    • Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • pH: 5.0-7.0
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Though many species are regarded as a silver dollar, Metynnis argenteus is one of the most commonly available. Silver dollars are a comparable fish to the aforementioned tinfoil barb, though much, much smaller, and more manageable. These fish are pearlescent silver with some individuals showing hints of red on their anal fin.

    Silver dollars are active schooling fish that will complement the same swimming patterns as bala sharks. Though only 6 inches wide, they can start to take up a decent amount of space as they grow vertically.

    It should be noted that silver dollars are regularly kept in more acidic water parameters, so some acclimation is necessary to keep them with balas.

    13. Dennison Barbs

    Dennison Barb
    • Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Adult Size: 4-6 inches
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Water Temperature: 60-80° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    Dennison barbs are very popular tank mates for a variety of large fish species. They are colorful, active, and get along with most other fish. Unfortunately, these fish originate from very particular ecosystems throughout India, and their numbers are dwindling. All efforts should be made to replicate their natural settings in the home aquarium, including a high rate of water flow.

    Otherwise, Dennison barbs thrive in groups of at least 6 or more. They are moderately active swimmers and can become slightly aggressive during feeding times. While they should be completely compatible with bala sharks, some care should be taken to ensure your sharks get enough to eat.

    14. Pictus Catfish

    Pictus-Catfish
    • Scientific Name: Pimelodus pictus
    • Adult Size: 3-6 inches
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 75-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

    If you’re not looking for a bottom-dwelling fish as big as the common pleco, then the pictus catfish might offer something smaller and more eye-catching. These fish are silvery-white with assorted black spots across their bodies and fins. They also feature three sets of barbels.

    The pictus catfish is one of the most ideal tank mates for a bala shark aquarium as they are largely nocturnal, swim at a different water column level, and complement the natural colors of the sharks. They also stay much smaller than other similar catfish, though they will need to be kept in small groups of at least 3 or more.

    15. Giant Danios

    <a href=Giant Danio in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557080″/>
    • Scientific Name: Devario aequipinnatus
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches
    • pH: 6.0-7.0
    • Water Temperature: 72-82° F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

    The giant danio is becoming an ever-increasing popular fish in the aquarium hobby. They should not be confused with the readily available zebra danio (Danio rerio) as these fish require tropical temperatures and a larger tank.

    That being said, giant danios are still very active schooling fish that can easily overwhelm smaller fish. Unlike zebra danios, they swim toward the middle of the water column, where bala sharks also prefer. To make this pairing work, the danios should be overall smaller and in a smaller group size than the sharks.

    Aquatic Animals To Avoid

    Though bala sharks is afraid of their own shadow, there are a few fish and invertebrates they won’t be compatible with. Even though bala sharks are relatively hardy fish, they do have some special considerations.

    1. Shrimp

    Freshwater Shrimp
    Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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    Shrimp are great cleanup crew members and can bring color and life to the bottom of the aquarium. Sadly, they are not good tank mates for bala sharks and will be easily eaten instead.

    2. Small Snails

    Mystery-Snail

    For the most part, bala sharks won’t eat mature snails. However, they is tempted to eat a snail that is smaller than their mouth. For this reason, only large, full-grown snails should be kept as tank mates for bala sharks.

    3. Small Fish

    School of Rasboras

    For the same reasons, bala sharks should not be kept with fish that are smaller than their mouth. While bala sharks are not overtly aggressive fish, they will not hesitate to try to eat anything that they can.

    4. Aggressive fish

    Again, bala sharks are not overly aggressive and they will be harassed and outcompeted by a larger, more aggressive, and more active tank mate. These fish are naturally shy and will not defend themselves if they are attacked by another fish.

    Their Care Requirements

    While we talked about possible tank mates, we also need to go over the intense requirements of bala sharks. For a long time, bala sharks have been kept in relatively small aquariums due to their unassuming juvenile size and striking appearance. The truth is that bala sharks can grow to be 1-2 feet long!

    The bala shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus) is a slender freshwater fish with pointed fins that resemble those of a marine shark. They have been documented in the Mekong River basin, as well as throughout the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo. Unfortunately, populations are dwindling in their natural habitat.

    As of yet, bala sharks have not been, or are very rarely, bred in the aquarium setting. This means that wild-caught individuals need to be preserved in aquariums that fit their needs. Keep in mind that bala sharks are schooling fish and do best in groups of at least 3 or more. Because of this and their mature size, bala sharks require at least a 125 gallon aquarium, with a longer footprint being better than a tall one.

    Want to learn more about their requirements in detail. Check out our care guide here.

    FAQs

    Can bala sharks be kept alone?

    Bala sharks are big freshwater aquarium fish and it is tempting to keep one bala shark in a 29 gallon tank instead of an entire school in a 125 gallon tank. These aquarium fish cannot and should not be kept alone.

    These fish benefit from being in a group with others as they are naturally shy and reclusive. Also, never try to keep a fish in a tank that is too small with plans of eventually upgrading!

    Are they aggressive?

    Bala sharks were wrongly labeled as aggressive when they entered the aquarium hobby. These are relatively peaceful fish that might only mistakingly show signs of aggression if kept with small fish and invertebrates. Otherwise, they are often outcompeted by other species.

    What’s the best temperature for them?

    Bala sharks are tropical fish that need a constant water temperature between 72 to 82° F.

    Final Thoughts

    The art of keeping bala sharks has long been misunderstood. These are relatively peaceful fish that grow to large sizes and therefore, need a large aquarium setup. That being said, they can comfortably be kept with a variety of other freshwater fish as long as they don’t fit inside your shark’s mouth and aren’t overly active.

  • How Do Betta Fish Sleep? What I’ve Observed After Years of Keeping Them

    How Do Betta Fish Sleep? What I’ve Observed After Years of Keeping Them

    One of my favorite things about bettas is how expressive they are. even when they’re sleeping. Over the years I’ve watched them tuck under floating plants, wedge into tank corners, or prop themselves on a little leaf hammock completely motionless. I’ve had more than a few customers call me convinced their fish had died overnight, only to find out it was just resting. Bettas are remarkably good at going completely still when they sleep. Here’s what you actually need to know about when, where, and how they do it.

    Key Takeaways

    • Betta fish do, in fact sleep
    • Bettas like to rest a lot on decor and may appear lazy at times
    • To encourage activity, place them in a larger tank, add tankmates, and decor for enrichment
    • Low temperatures can also lead to excessive resting and sleeping – keep temps from 78 – 82 degrees F

    How Do Betta Fish Sleep?

    Like all living organisms, betta fish need sleep to function properly1. But of course, the way they sleep is far different than that of humans and other land animals because… well, they live in the sea with no beds, covers, or eyelids. 

    Though, the Siamese fighting fish are diurnal animals; they sleep at night and are active during the day. they may take short naps during the day for a few minutes. During nap time, Betta fish usually sleep near the bottom of the tank or on a flat surface, mainly on a plant or substrate. Also, unlike many fish, betta don’t have eyelids, so their eyes remain open when betta are sleeping. 

    Since we know that betta fish is a labyrinth fish with a special organ that allows easy breathing on the surface, you may also find them resting near the water’s surface or between floating plants, sleeping in a tilted position. 

    🏆 Mark’s Observation: In my experience, bettas strongly prefer sleeping under floating plants or on a leaf hammock placed near the surface. they feel secure with something above them. If your betta doesn’t have either, add a betta hammock or some floating plants like frogbit or water lettuce. You’ll notice a real difference in how settled and relaxed they look at rest. It’s one of the easiest improvements you can make for their wellbeing.

    However, if your betta fish is spending too much time on their side or in any one direction, make sure it doesn’t have any underlying medical condition. 

    All in all, the sight of betta fish sleeping is beautiful and allows you to study your fish’s own sleeping habits and preferences. Some betta fish like to rest in a particular spot or position while some enjoy various sleeping locations. Therefore, it is important to provide your betta fish with a comfortable environment with lots of hiding spots.

    Sleeping Or Sick? – How To Tell If They Are

    Not sure whether your betta fish is sleeping or sick? Here are some of the ways you can find out if your betta is sleeping. 

    Gill flaring

    Single-Ray-Betta

    One of the most peculiar behaviors of betta fish is gill flaring which attracts many betta owners and other aquarists. Betta fish flare their gills for a variety of reasons. However, a sleeping betta fish might temporarily cease the gill flaring behavior to preserve energy while at rest. 

    Therefore, if you notice minimal or record gill flaring, know that your betta is taking its power nap!

    Breathing rate

    One of the most common signs your betta is sleeping is the slowed breathing rate with shallower breathing patterns.

    Reduced body movement and activity levels

    Like other fish, a sleeping fish tend to move slowly for extended periods of time. Therefore, they show minimal movement and interaction. If you’re a new betta owner, you may find your fish resting with no movement and activity levels. Fret not! They are not dead, just sleeping. 

    How Long Do They Rest?

    Like every human, every individual betta fish is different than others. Therefore, there is no one answer to “How long do betta fish sleep?”

    However, betta fish are diurnal animals i.e., they are active throughout the day and sleep at night. Therefore, if you find a betta sleeping a lot during the time, it is not normal behavior and could be a sign of disease or other problems.

    On average, betta fish sleep between 8 to 12 hours a day.

    Why Do Bettas Rest A Lot?

    Picture yourself swimming wearing a big, flared dress non-stop! Sounds tiring, doesn’t it?

    The same goes for betta fish. They have such long, flared beautiful wings that it gets tiring to carry them swimming around the fish tank. Therefore, betta fish, in general, fall under the lazy spectrum because they take longer periods of rest and sleep than their counterparts. 

    Just like betta fish, many varieties of goldfish with long fins and stout compact bodies also take significant time resting in the aquarium.

    Therefore, if your water parameters; water flow, and water temperature are within the ideal ranges, the inactivity of your fish is nothing serious. For your betta fish to thrive in your aquarium, the ideal water temperature should be between 78-82F since they are tropical fish and prefer warmer temperatures. If your water is too cold for their liking, bettas sleep more than usual because of slower metabolism and may suffer from health issues.

    Reasons why your Betta Fish is Sleeping a lot

    If you find your betta fish sleeping a lot during the day time, there can a various reasons:

    No Stimulation

    Betta_Fish_Bowl_large-1

    It would surprise you but your little guy in the tank gets bored too. And yes, they need a little stimulation activities. You might also try some fish training techniques. In short, if your betta is sleeping a lot, they might just be bored and need a little loving to be active again. 

    Aquarium lights

    Betta fish sleep throughout the night. Therefore, if you leave aquarium lights on during the night, they may disturb the natural sleep pattern of your fish and result in abnormal sleep cycles. Betta loves dark tanks, especially during the nighttime time because their natural habitat is dark and shallow with little water movement. Therefore, it’s crucial to mimic their natural habitat for their better health. 

    A healthy betta fish needs at least 12 hours of complete darkness each night in a comfortable environment to promote healthy sleep patterns.

    ⚠️ Three Things That Make or Break Betta Sleep: First, consistent lighting. use a timer for 10-12 hours on, 12-14 hours off, every day. Second, hiding spots near the surface (hammocks, floating plants) so they feel secure enough to fully relax. Third, stable temperature. a drop below 76°F can trigger lethargy that looks like sleep but is actually temperature stress. Get all three right and you’ll have a noticeably more active, healthy fish.

    Temperature shock 

    Many aquarists have a misunderstanding that betta fish hibernate. When in reality, they go into temperature shock if the temperature drops below a certain mark since they are tropical fish.

    As a result, they may look like they are sleeping fish, but what actually happens is their metabolism slows down and causes temperature shock. Therefore, maintaining a comfortable water temperature is essential to keeping your betta fish healthy, happy, and thriving in an aquarium setting. 

    How to Stop Excessive Resting?

    Here are a few things you can do to stop reducing your bettas sleeping time. 

    1. Make sure the temperature in your tank is within the comfortable range; of 78-82F. If not, you can always install a heater to keep the water warm and easy for your betta fish. I also recommend using an in-tank thermometer for reliable temperature readings.
    2. Besides maintaining the water temperature and water flow, it is crucial to feed a varied diet consisting of live food, frozen food, pellets, and other occasional treats for a complete nutritional profile. 
    3. Last, but not least, always call your aquatic veterinarian for a careful examination of your betta fish. The most common fish diseases include mycobacteria and swim bladder disease may cause your fish to be more lazy and lethargic. 

    How To Distinguish Between a Sleeping Pet and a Dead One

    If you ever spot a betta fish floating on the top of your tank or lying on the bottom of the tank, fret not!

    They might just be sleeping… but in some cases, you might mistake a dead betta fish with a sleeping betta fish. Therefore, it’s important to pinpoint the differences between the two. Here are some of the signs of a dead betta fish you should look out for:

    1. If your betta fish stays at the bottom of the tank for several days, chances are they are dead. However, if they have just settled recently, they might just be sleeping peacefully.
    2. If the scales seem pointy and elevated away from the body with a swollen stomach, your betta fish might be just or is near death. 
    3. There are white spots around the body with discolored fins. You can use a flashlight to observe the color carefully.
    4. When they don’t even respond during the feed time and are not interested in food. 

    It is crucial to let your betta fish rest. However, if you find your fish lying motionless for long periods, examine the gills and mouth carefully and observe its breathing patterns. If your betta fish is not breathing and moving, know that it’s dead.

    FAQs

    How Do You Know If a Betta Fish Is Sleeping?

    You can tell if your betta fish is sleeping when there is reduced activity, reduced gill flaring, slowed breathing rate, and shallower breathing patterns. Most importantly, if your betta fish is lying on the bottom of the tank with little to no interaction, it is usually taking its well-deserved rest. 

    Do Betta Fish Sleep With The Light On?

    No. Since betta fish are diurnal fish species; like humans, they sleep through the night and are active during the day. Therefore, if you leave aquarium lights on during the night and day, they may not sleep as betta fish are light sleepers and aquarium lights may disturb their sleep patterns. 

    Nonetheless, leaving them in a dark aquarium for longer periods of time may turn them lazy, less active, and stressed.

    What Do Betta Fish Do When They Are Tired?

    Betta fish are active swimmers and they should be actively swimming and roaming around the tank regardless of the weight of their fins. However, if you notice your betta fish is spending more time at the bottom of the tank than usual, this is a sign of lethargy and should never be overlooked. 

    Does Betta Fish Like Resting On Leaves?

    Yes, betta sleeping on leaves is perfectly normal. Betta fish are commonly found resting on large, flat leaves or floating leaves in the tank. Therefore, if you don’t have aquatic plants, you can always get stick-on betta leaf hammocks from pet stores. 

    How much time does Betta Fish Sleep?

    In general, betta fish need at least 12 hours of darkness for a better and healthy life. They sleep during the night and are active during the day. Therefore, turning the tank light off is your best bet if you want your little guy healthy and happy. 

    Why is my Betta fish so lazy?

    Many factors contribute to the lethargy of your betta fish. For example, poor water quality, poor diet, unstable tank water temperature, and water flow. If water parameters are not maintained, betta fish sleeps more than usual and this may affect its overall health. Therefore, it is crucial to monitor the parameters and keep an eye on fish diseases.

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish keeping as a leisure hobby is increasing day by day, but taking care of your bettas’ sleep is one way to keep them healthy and active. Other than their diet, water parameters, and water flow, you should also consider keeping your tank clean and taking care of their tank mates. Always go for compatible tank mates such as mystery snails, shrimps, and guppies to reduce stress and increase interactivity. 

    A betta tank should be well-lit in the daytime and dark throughout the night, so they get enough sleep since they are very light sleepers. 

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • The 21 Best Fish For Small Tanks (With Photos)

    The 21 Best Fish For Small Tanks (With Photos)

    Small tanks are where a lot of beginners start. and where they make their first mistakes, usually by overcrowding or picking fish that will outgrow the setup. I’ve set up tanks as small as 5 gallons and know which species genuinely thrive in tight quarters versus which ones just survive. Here are the 21 I’d actually choose for a small tank.

    Are you planning a new fish tank or just looking for a new small fish species to add to an existing community? Choosing new fish is super fun, but it can be tough to make the right choice.

    There are hundreds of different species in the fishkeeping hobby, so save yourself the stress and scroll through this list to help make your choice. All the fish mentioned in this guide can be kept in tanks of 15-20 gallons, and some can even live in aquariums as small as 5 gallons.

    Ready? Let’s meet the 21 best small fish for freshwater aquariums!

    Key Takeaways

    • Small freshwater fish make fascinating pets, and a well-planned display tank can make a big impact in any space.
    • Schooling fish are easily stressed if kept alone. They should be kept in groups of at least 5 or 6 of their own species.
    • Small freshwater fish need good filtration and regular water changes to stay healthy. Tropical species should be kept in a temperature-controlled, heated tank.
    • Choose peaceful species with similar temperature and water parameter preferences when starting a community tank. Each fish should be comfortable in its new home.

    The 21 Best Fish For Small Tanks

    It’s time to learn about 21 excellent freshwater fish for small tanks! Take note of their minimum tank size, diet requirements, and other important stats before choosing your next pet. We have a video below from our YouTube Channel, so you can watch along while seeing more details below from our blog!

    1. Bettas

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    Betta Fish
    Betta Fish

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed good quality micro-pellets and live/frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp
    • Origin: Thailand and other countries in Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 76-80 °F
    • Swimming Level: Mid/upper layers

    The betta or Siamese fighting fish is a great choice for any freshwater aquarium that holds 5 gallons or more. These popular freshwater fish can live more than three years with good care and their bright colors and fancy fins make them great centerpiece fish.

    Bettas get along great with many different tank mates in community setups, just don’t make the mistake of keeping more than one male in the same tank. These guys love to fight!

    2. Exclamation Point Rasbora

    Exclamation Point Rasbora
    Exclamation Point Rasbora

    One of the smallest fish available in the hobby. Best in schools and easy to care for

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    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Adult Size: 0.5 inches
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful and shy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed crushed flake fish food, baby brine shrimp and blood worms
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Temperature: 68 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle layers

    The exclamation point rasbora is an awesome little freshwater nano fish with an orange body and a black exclamation (!) symbol on each side.

    These tiny fish are pretty shy (probably because they’re so small) so they need the company of at least 10 of their own kind to form a nice school. Keep these peaceful fish in a densely planted tank to enjoy all they have to offer.

    3. Chili Rasbora

    Chili Rasboras
    Chili Rasboras

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    A great nano schooling fish. Males display brighter colors. Best in groups of 6 or more

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    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed granules and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper layers

    Also known as the mosquito rasbora, these peaceful schooling fish are similar to the exclamation point rasbora but have a redder body color. These are true micro fish that are perfect for small tanks.

    While it is possible to keep a small school in a 5-gallon tank, they’ll do much better in a 10 gallon tank with plenty of live aquarium plants.

    4. Zebra Danio

    Zebra-Danio
    • Scientific Name: Danio/Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed good quality dried foods and bloodworms or other insect larvae
    • Origin: South Asia
    • Temperature: 66 – 77°F
    • Swimming Level: Generally middle and upper layers

    The zebra danio is a great beginner fish species for a small freshwater aquarium. There are many other beautiful danio species (celestial pearl, glowlight, etc.) in the hobby, but the good ol’ zebra fish tends to be the cheapest and most adaptable species.

    These small fish are very peaceful and hardy, making them a great small aquarium fish species for a community tank. The minimum tank size for these fish is about 10 gallons, but they’ll be much happier in a 20-gallon tank where there’s plenty of space to swim.

    5. Black Neon Tetra

    Black Neon Tetra
    Black Neon Tetra

    A variant neon variety. More reliant than neon and cardinal tetras

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    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed a quality pellet/flake and live/frozen food
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper layers

    The black neon tetra doesn’t get quite as much love as the regular neons and cardinal tetras, but black neons are actually the better choice for many aquarists because they are so easy to care for. A school of 5 or 6 of these beautiful fish will add constant motion to the open-water areas of a small tropical fish tank.

    These guys are pretty hardy, and much more likely to survive some of the common beginner fishkeeping mistakes. They look great too, and they get along perfectly with other peaceful fish.

    6. Cory Catfish

    Corydoras trilineatus
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-3 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner/intermediate
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: Species-dependent
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed sinking tablets/pellets and frozen foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: Species-dependent, most types can be kept in the mid-70s Fahrenheit
    • Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

    Looking for an interesting bottom dweller for a small community tank? Look no further than the cories, a large group of schooling catfish from South America. These fascinating freshwater fish spend most of their time searching the substrate for food scraps, but every now and then they rocket up to the surface for a gulp of air.

    The smallest species (dwarf, pygmy corydoras, etc.) grow to less than an inch and can be kept in a ten-gallon tank, but most species will need an aquarium size of 20 gallons or more.

    7. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    White Cloud Mountain Minnow
    White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

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    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed high-quality dried foods supplemented with frozen blood worms/ brine shrimp
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 60-72°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper layers

    The white cloud mountain minnow is a coldwater fish, even though it offers all the bright colors of a tropical fish species.

    These peaceful fish will thrive in an unheated aquarium in most homes, although they can be kept with some tropical fish that enjoy water in the low 70’s. The white cloud mountain minnow is a social fish, so you’ll need a school of at least six to keep them confident.

    8. Cherry Barb

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

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    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed quality fish flakes or micro pellets and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 70 – 79°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle to lower levels

    The cherry barb is a beautiful freshwater schooling fish from South Asia with attractive scales and rounded fins. Males develop a beautiful cherry-red color, but the females also have a rich amber/orange shade.

    Cherry barbs are great community fish that add life to the lower levels of the aquarium. They get along great with other peaceful fish but will do best in a larger tank (20 gallons+) if they need to share their space with other species. A school of 6 or more is recommended to see them at their best.

    9. Endler’s Livebearers

    Endler's Livebearers
    Endler's Livebearers

    A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller in size than guppies

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 1 – 2 inches, males reach just one inch
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, provide a quality flake or micro-pellet and occasional frozen/live foods
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Temperature: 64 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels but mostly in the upper half

    The Endler’s livebearer is a colorful little fish that looks similar to a regular fancy guppy. However, this closely related fish is a smaller species and purebred specimens are much rarer. Ideally, Endlers should not be kept in the same tank as guppies because the two will readily hybridize.

    Endlers are confident, active little fish that are very easy to care for. These fish breed easily, so you can expect to see some babies (fry) if you keep males and females together. They’re very peaceful too, so you can keep them with other nano community fish.

    10. Honey Gourami

    Honey Gourami
    Honey Gourami

    One of the more peaceful Gourami fish available in the hobby. Has a unique yellow coloration and only grows up to 2 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Adult Size: up to 2 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons for a single fish, 20 gallons for a pair
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed a quality micro-pellet or flake, and occasional live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India and Bangladesh
    • Temperature: 74-80°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper layers

    The honey gourami is a small, peaceful fish species that can be kept as a single centerpiece fish or as a pair in a small community fish tank.

    The males develop their brightest colors before the breeding season, but these peaceful nano fish are attractive and interesting at any time of the year.

    11. Ember Tetra

    Ember Tetra
    Ember Tetra

    A small red tetra that grows up to 1.25 inches. A very peaceful schooling fish

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    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed micro-pellets/ flakes and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-80°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle levels

    The ember tetra is a nano schooling fish with a deep orange color. These tiny tetras grow to three-quarters of an inch or so, making them a good choice for tanks as small as 5 gallons. However, they will be much better off in a tank of over 10 gallons, especially in a school of 10 or more.

    Ember tetras are an option for a small community tank, although they should not be kept with large or aggressive fish due to their small size.

    12. Guppies

    Guppy Fish
    Guppy Fish

    An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed high-quality dried and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Northern South America and the Caribbean
    • Temperature: 72-82°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Fancy guppies are excellent nano fish for smaller fish tanks, especially if you have naturally hard water. These colorful livebearers are very easy to keep and super easy to breed in a home aquarium.

    Guppies come in a variety of colors, and some high-quality strains are very rare and valuable. However, you can usually find some beautiful fancy guppies at your local fish store for a very reasonable price. You can keep only males or groups with three females to one male.

    13. Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese Rice Fish
    Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

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    • Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
    • Adult Size: 1.2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed a quality flake food and supplemental live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Eastern Asia
    • Temperature: 61 – 75°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper levels

    The Medaka, or Japanese rice fish is becoming increasingly popular in the aquarium trade. They are available in a variety of colors, ranging from white to orange.

    These nano fish prefer cool water, making them a great choice for an unheated tank. They can be kept with other peaceful fish like white cloud minnows, just avoid tropical species that need warm water temperatures.

    14. Rainbow Shiner

    • Scientific Name: Notropis chrosomus
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, provide a good quality dried food and frozen/live foods as treats
    • Origin: Southeastern USA
    • Temperature: 50 – 72°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle and upper layers

    The rainbow shiner is an awesome native fish species that hails from the United States. They are a pretty new fish species in the fish keeping hobby and difficult to find at most fish stores, but you can often pick them up online. Choose this species as the centerpiece for a cool water stream biotope tank.

    In spawning colors, these guys are some of the best-looking fish out there, although not all specimens develop amazing colors, and females are not particularly colorful. Keep a school of at least 6 of these fish in a small cool water tank with good water flow.

    15. Spotted Blue-Eye Rainbowfish

    Forktail-Fish
    • Scientific Name: Pseudomugil gertrudae
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner/intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful but shy
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore, feed crushed dried foods and small live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Indonesia and Northern Australia
    • Temperature: 72-82°F
    • Swimming Level: Generally in the top and middle levels

    The spotted blue-eye rainbowfish is an interesting nano species that thrives in small planted aquariums. Both sexes are very attractive, although only the males develop large and interesting anal and dorsal fins.

    Spotted blue-eye rainbowfish can be pretty shy around other fish, so they’re best kept in their own planted tank. It is possible to keep this species with adult shrimp, but there’s always some risk when keeping fish and inverts together. Keep a shoal of 8 or more of these fish to see their confident natural behaviors.

    16. Green Fire Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Aphyocharax rathbuni
    • Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed good quality dried foods and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Uraguay, Argentina, Paraguay
    • Temperature: 70 – 79°F
    • Swimming Level: Midwater levels

    The green fire tetra is an active little South American tetra that will add color and movement to any nano tank. You might find them for sale as Rathbun’s tetra or the redflank bloodfin, but they are all the same awesome nano species.

    Unfortunately, green fire tetras have a reputation for fin nipping, so it’s safest to keep them with fast-moving fish that can hold their own, and avoid any species with long, flowing fins.

    17. Clown Killifish

    Clown Killifish
    Clown Killifish

    A colorful nano killifish. Best in low flow tanks

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    • Scientific Name: Epiplatys annulatus
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Care Level: Beginner/intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed dried food for nano fish and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Temperature: 68 – 78°F
    • Swimming Level: Upper levels

    Also known as the banded panchax, these tiny surface dwellers are a great choice for a nano tank full of healthy green plants that mimic their natural forest habitat.

    The clown killifish can be kept with other nano fish but will be most comfortable if you keep a school of at least 8 specimens.

    18. Scarlet Badis

    Scarlet Badis
    Scarlet Badis

    A great colorful nano fish. They are known for being semi-aggressive. Best if keep solo or in pairs

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    • Scientific Name: Dario dario
    • Adult Size: 0.5 – 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 70- 79°F
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The scarlet badis is a tiny fish species from India that looks similar to a dwarf cichlid. These colorful little fish can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons, although maintaining great water quality is much easier in a larger setup.

    The scarlet badis is a great choice for fish keepers with a few years of experience. They can be a little fussy around meal times, so you’ll probably need a supply of live or frozen foods to keep them well-fed.

    These fish should not be kept with larger, more aggressive species, although they will thrive in a planted tank with other smaller fish like celestial pearl danios (AKA Galaxy Rasbora).

    19. Licorice Gourami

    Licorice Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Can be somewhat aggressive
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed live foods like bloodworm and tubifex worm
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 72 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: Middle layers

    The licorice gourami is a fascinating nano fish species for more experienced fish keepers. These fish do well in tanks as small as 5 gallons, but they require soft, acidic water and gentle filtration to simulate their natural habitat.

    Licorice gouramis are often kept as a single centerpiece fish due to their slightly aggressive nature, although you can keep them with other small, peaceful fish in a tank with plenty of cover and live plants.

    20. Otocinclus Catfish

    Otocinclus Catfish
    Otocinclus Catfish

    A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Algae eater. Can be fed soft greens and algae wafers but requires a source of natural algae
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70 – 77°F
    • Swimming Level: Feeds on hardscape, glass, and plants at all levels

    The otocinclus catfish is one of my favorite nano fish and one of the most useful clean-up crew species in the hobby. However, these little guys have some special requirements, and they rarely survive in a new tank without a steady supply of algae.

    Despite their small size, these algae eaters do best in mature tanks of 20 gallons or more that can provide enough natural food to sustain a school of 6 or more. Otos are very peaceful fish that are safe to keep with dwarf shrimp and fish fry.

    21. Pea Puffer

    Freshwater Pea Puffers
    Freshwater Pea Puffers

    At only an inch in length, this is the smallest pufferfish you can purchase in the aquarium hobby

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    • Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon travancoricus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feed live snails, and live/frozen brine shrimp
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 72 – 82°F
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    The pea puffer is an adorable little nano fish with a real mean streak! They are a true freshwater species that can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons, although 15 gallons or more would be much better for long-term care.

    These fish are not ideal for beginners because they prefer a heavily planted tank to feel comfortable in their environment, and they have a pretty specialized diet. A steady supply of live snails is the best food source to keep their sharp teeth worn down, but they will also take frozen bloodworms as an occasional treat.

    Other Species To Consider

    Fish are not the only things you can keep in a small fish tank. Read on to learn about three other options!

    1. Dwarf Shrimp

    Freshwater Shrimp
    Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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    Keeping freshwater shrimp is a fascinating alternative to small fish species. Sometimes, you can also add these adorable crustaceans to an existing freshwater aquarium, although most popular aquarium fish will try to eat them.

    Otocinclus catfish are one of the only fish that won’t eat baby shrimp, although you may get away with keeping large adult shrimp with small nano fish like celestial pearl danios.

    Generally, it’s best to keep freshwater shrimp in their own tank of 10 gallons or larger, although some aquarists have success in tanks as small as 2 gallons. Unfortunately, maintaining safe water parameters is very difficult in this volume of water.

    Different shrimp species have different care requirements, but all species will do best in a temperature-controlled and filtered aquarium with good-quality shrimp food and regular maintenance.

    2. Snails

    Best Algae Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail

    Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

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    Snails have really gotten a bad name in the aquarium hobby, but the truth is that these fascinating freshwater invertebrates can be great cleanup crew and some species are really good-looking creatures!

    Avoid adding snails like ramshorns and pond snails to your tank if you prefer species that won’t multiply, although these ‘pest’ species tend to limit themselves in well-maintained tanks.

    Nerite snails and mystery snails are better choices because they do not breed and actually make pretty interesting display animals.

    Want to learn more? Check out my comprehensive aquarium snail guides for much more information on these fascinating creatures!

    3. Small Hardy Plants

    Have you considered growing live plants in your aquarium? Heads up, the planted tank hobby can be addictive!

    There are loads of different aquatic plant species that thrive in small tanks. Many will survive without any special care, but it’s important to select low-tech species if you’re just starting out.

    Epiphytes like Java Ferns and Anubias nana petit are great choices because you can grow them right in their pot without any special lighting. However, a much better way to grow these hardy plants is to attach them to a rock or a piece of driftwood using superglue or thread.

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

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    Want to learn more about growing live plants? Browse through my extensive collection of detailed guides to get started!

    What is a Small Aquarium?

    Aquariums in the range of 5 to 20 gallons are generally classified as small tanks. These tanks are ideal for bedrooms, offices, and busy fish rooms. You’ll also see tanks as small as 1 gallon for sale, but avoid these if you’re planning on keeping fish. Anything smaller than about 5 gallons can be very difficult to maintain.

    Stocking Your Tank

    Test your source water before stocking your tank. Some fish prefer naturally hard water, while others prefer soft and acidic conditions. If your tap water is hard, you may want to choose small livebearers like guppies that thrive in harder water.

    Personality is also vital when choosing small fish for your tank. Avoid mixing small, shy species with more aggressive fish like tiger barbs if you want a peaceful community setup.

    Many beginners try to cram as many fish into their tanks as possible, but more fish means more maintenance, and it’s easy to let your water quality slide to dangerous levels in a nano fish tank. Stock your tank lightly for a trouble-free experience.

    Essential Equipment Checklist

    • Heater

    Apart from the Japanese ricefish and the white cloud minnow, each of the species in this list will need warm water temperatures to simulate the tropical climate of their natural habitat. Choose a heater model and wattage that fits your tank size.

    • Filter

    All fish need filtered water when kept in small aquariums. Choose a small sponge filter, HOB, or internal power filter that can process your aquarium water volume 4-6 times each hour.

    • Lighting

    Your fish will enjoy a natural day/night cycle to maintain their biological clock. Run your lights for 6-8 hours each day to avoid excess algae growth.

    Other Important Supplies

    • Water test kit
    • Gravel vacuum
    • Thermometer
    • Decorations, hardscape, and Substrate
    • Quality food

    FAQs

    Final Thoughts

    You don’t need a big tank or a big budget to enjoy the fishkeeping hobby. In fact, all of the small fish species discussed in this article will be right at home in a desktop tank!

    That being said, 5 gallons is the smallest size you should consider for any freshwater fish, and 15 gallons (with a good filter) is probably the ideal size for your first nano tank. Lastly, little fish can have BIG personalities, so make sure all your fish species match up in terms of personality and temperament.

    Do you keep small aquarium fish? Share your favorite species in the comments below!