Tag: Freshwater

Looking for a way to get rid of pest snails? If so, an Assassin Snail may be an option for you. You’ll want to read this complete care guide that goes over these unique inverts. I’ll cover their diet, tank requirements, breeding, and more. So if you are interested in learning more about these snails, keep on reading!

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Anentome helena/Clea helena
Common Names	Assassin snail, Bumblebee snail, Snail eating snail
Family	Nassariidae
Origin	Southeast An
Diet	Carnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	2-3 years
Temperament	Aggressive to other snails and shrimp
Tank Level	Bottom level and substrate
Minimum Tank Size	30 gallons
Temperature Range	70 to 80° F
Water Hardness	2-15 KH
pH Range	6.5 – 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Slow to fast
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Origin and Habitat

The assassin snail originates from Southeast Asia, including Vietnam, Thailand, Sumatra, and Malaysia. There, they live in freshwater rivers, streams, and lakes. They prefer a muddy substrate where they can easily burrow and wait to emerge for prey. Sometimes they will keep their proboscis exposed to stay alert about nearby food.

Assassin snails are very resilient and will adapt to most water conditions. This has led them to become the most predominant snail in some ecosystems as well as to become an invasive species in other countries. If left unmonitored, this can start to affect local snail populations.

Introduction

Got a snail problem? Assassin snails might just be the answer.

Assassin snails are unlike any other freshwater snail available for purchase in the aquarium trade. Though gruesomely named, the assassin snail is actually a perfect, peaceful candidate for the planted community aquarium.

As with most planted aquariums, live plants from the pet store may bring in unwanted pest snails that quickly reproduce and overpopulate the system. While some hobbyists use manual removal or chemical intervention to keep a snail population down, others turn to a natural predator: the assassin snail.

These small snails stay about an inch big at full size but have a big appetite for other snails and other meaty foods!

How Do They Kill

But how do these apex predators of the snail world kill? We’ll be honest, this isn’t for the faint of heart but the method used undoubtedly earns these snails their killer name.

How Do They Kill?

The assassin snail isn’t poisonous or venomous. Instead, they have a deadly tongue-like structure called a radula.

In most other aquarium snails, the radula is lined with tiny teeth that scrape away algae from hard surfaces and are harmless to other snails. In the assassin snail, the radula is designed to extend into the shell of other snails, scraping away and eating the mucus and flesh of the other snail while it’s still alive.

During this process, different fluids and smells enter the water column, attracting other assassin snails and leading to a frenzy. In no time, the only thing left of the victims is empty snail shells alongside a group of full assassins.

In most cases, assassin snails will only eat snails that are smaller than them or about the same size. This leaves larger snails, like nerites and mystery snails, largely unscathed; however, there is the chance that your assassin snails gang up on a larger snail and ambush prey them. Still, they prefer eating trumpet snails, ramshorn snails, and pond snails.

It should be noted that assassin snails have been known to eat freshwater shrimp as well as shrimp fry. While more uncommon to see, they will eat the dwarf shrimp from the inside out in the same style.

If you happen to find an assassin snail eating a fish, it’s very likely that the fish was already dead. Remember, assassin snails are very efficient scavengers that feed on meaty foods other than pest snails. They will gladly take the opportunity to eat a dead fish.

There is also the chance that your assassin snail will eat fish eggs as well as other snail eggs. However, they favor soft egg capsules. The hard egg capsule from snails like nerite snails will usually be ignored.

How To Identify One

Though more uncommon to happen, assassin snails can unknowingly come in on live plants and other aquarium decorations.

If you have decorative snails that you want to keep, then you’ll definitely want to know how to identify an assassin snail before they start eating your prized snails; to help prevent any pest snails from entering the aquarium at all, it’s always recommended to dip-treat live plants and quarantine.

The problem is that assassin snails stay small for a very long time and stay buried in the substrate. Once they’ve grown, they are very easy to identify, though.

Assassin snails grow to be about an inch big at mature size. Some of the larger individuals reach closer to 2 inches. They have alternating vertical black and yellow stripes along the sides of their shell.

They are most identifiable by the shape of their conical shell that ends in a sharp whorl. Along the sides of the shell are noticeable ridges that lead to their small foot. Two antennae and a proboscis will stick out from under the shell. The proboscis is the nose of the snail which helps to locate food.

Care

Keeping assassin snails is easy though keeping them fed can be difficult once the number of pest snails available starts to decline.

Tank Size

There is some discussion about the minimum tank size required for assassin snails. These are small snails that don’t create a lot of waste, but their diet and heavy preference for live foods make their recommended tank size bigger than expected.

In general, a 30 gallon tank is recommended to keep assassin snails. About one to three snails are recommended for a tank this size. More or less should be added based on the number of pest snails present.

If you are adding assassin snails for decoration only and planning to regularly supplement meaty foods, then hobbyists have had success keeping assassin snails in as little as 5 gallons. In these cases, waste management needs to be monitored as uneaten meaty foods can quickly affect water quality.

Aquarium Setup

For the most part, assassin snails stay buried in the substrate. They will greatly prefer a sandy, silty bottom as opposed to gravel. Otherwise, there are no special aquarium setup requirements for keeping these snails.

Assassin snails can gladly be kept in a planted aquarium. They are strictly carnivores and will not eat live plants. Since they don’t require algae to eat, providing surface area for algae to grow does not matter as much as it does for other species; always keep in mind the needs of your other tank mates, though!

Water Parameters

Assassin snails are very hardy and can adapt to most water parameters. They need 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and minimal nitrates. They are intolerant to traces of copper.

However, assassin snails are somewhat more sensitive to incorrect water temperatures than other snails. They do best at a constant water temperature between 70-80° F. Though they originate from tropical climates, they prefer relatively cooler temperatures–though, not as cold as some snails can endure, like pond snails.

Filtration and Aeration

Many freshwater snail species like to graze on the algae and detritus collected by sponge filters. Assassin snails do not benefit from this additional filtration.

Instead, they will happily live with whatever kind of filtration you choose to give them, including sponge, hang on the back, canister, and sump filtration. Some hobbyists even keep them in unfiltered tanks that rely solely on beneficial bacteria and live plants.

Additional aeration is also not needed. This may change due to the other species being kept in the tank and the overall bioload.

Lighting

Assassin snails can be kept in low, moderate, and high lighting. Again, lighting will depend more on the other fish, invertebrates, and plants being kept in the aquarium.

That being said, assassin snails spend the majority of their time in the substrate. If the lighting does bother them, they will have no problem correcting the situation by hiding more.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Assassin snails don’t care if you have plants or not, but their food might. As carnivores, assassin snails will not touch plants. However, many other species of snail, like Malaysian trumpet snails and ramshorn snails, love to feed on the algae that grow on leaves and stems.

To help create a natural habitat for these freshwater snails to grow and to supply your assassin snail with food, it’s strongly recommended to keep live plants.

Community Tank Mates

Assassin snails can be kept in a tropical community fish tank. However, they should not be kept with wanted snails or shrimp.

Compatible community tank fish include:

• Tetras
• Corydoras
• Angelfish
• Rasboras
• Dwarf gouramis

These snails are not bothered by fish, including bottom-dwellers, though avoid snail-eating fish species as assassin snails are easily preyed upon. There is some discussion as to whether or not they can eat small fish, but it’s likely they only target fish that are already dying.

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

It can be difficult to gauge how many assassin snails your aquarium needs. They eat about one to three snails every one to three days, so the total number should be considered in regard to food availability.

In general, about one to two snails are recommended per every 10 gallons.

Can You Keep Just One?

Yes! You can keep just one assassin snail. These snails aren’t particularly social and don’t need others to feel safe. In most cases, it’s best to keep only one assassin snail so that feedings stay easy.

Food and Diet

Feeding assassin snails isn’t as difficult as it sounds.

First and foremost, these snails will appreciate pest snails as the staple of their diet. If you find that your snails are eating more than your snails can reproduce, then it may be worthwhile to cultivate those snails in a separate aquarium. This doesn’t need to be anything elaborate. A 5 gallon aquarium with some fast-growing plants can be the breeding ground for many species of freshwater snails.

If you don’t have the space to set up another tank, then you will need other options. Believe it or not, assassin snails will accept fish flakes and pellets. A protein-rich food should help supplement your snail’s diet, but try a live and frozen food source such as blood worms.

These snails will appreciate a variety of live and frozen brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and bloodworms. Feedings should be at least two to three times a week.

Breeding

For a long time, it was believed that assassin snails reproduce slowly. While they may lay only one egg at a time, they are efficient reproducers (video source).

https://youtu.be/Pwb4OTZCmqs

Breeding assassin snails is straightforward. They are likely to breed on their own without any hobbyist intervention if a male and female are present in the tank. To begin breeding, gradually raise the water temperature over the course of a few days. Provide a rich diet.

If successful, the female will lay fertilized eggs. These eggs can be moved to breeding tanks to ensure that nothing eats them, though this is usually unnecessary. Assassin snail eggs are about 1 millimeter in size and translucent yellow or white. The eggs should hatch in about one to two months.

Many hobbyists think they are unsuccessful when they see the egg missing with no baby assassin snails in sight. Babies are very small and likely to hide in and around the substrate for the first several months, so it’s not uncommon to not see them for a while.

If you want to stop breeding assassin snails, simply squash the eggs as you see them appear.

Do They Reproduce Asexually?

Unlike other freshwater snails, assassin snails do not breed asexually; a male and female need to be present. They are also not hermaphrodites, meaning that they stay one sex for the entirety of their lives.

There are no observable differences between males and females, so breeding will need to happen in a group setting where there’s a good chance of having both sexes present.

Final Thoughts

If you’re struggling with a snail infestation, then an assassin snail or two will help keep small population explosions in check. These snails are very undemanding and can adapt to most aquarium conditions. They especially love spending time in the substrate but will emerge to hunt for other snails as well as to help clean up dead fish and other meaty wastes.

Just make sure that you can supplement your snail with foods after the pest snails have run out! It’s one of the most fascinating snails in the aquarium hobby. Let us know your experience with them in the comments below!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

If you’re looking for a fish that keeps you occupied with its fascinating activities, then the Plakat Betta is the right species to try out.

There are a lot of misconceptions about the fish in the aquarium line. And because of that, you might mistake them to be on a completely different care level than on what they originally are.

To help you understand their behavior, care requirements, gender differences, and breeding process, we will walk through this extensive care guide together.

An Overview

Scientific Name	Betta splendens
Common Names	Siamese fighting fish, Plakat Morh, Plakat Betta, Wild Betta, Thai Betta, Shortfin Betta, Dragonscale Betta, Halfmoon Plakat Betta
Family	Osphronemidae
Origin	Southeast Asia
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Intermediate
Activity	Nocturnal active fish species
Lifespan	Up to 5 years
Temperament	Semi-Aggressive
Tank Level	Top
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	72-82 F°
Water Hardness	2 to 12 dKH
pH Range	6.0 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to fast
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Solo or Community tanks (with caution)
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What is It?

Plakat Betta, famously termed as Siamese fighting fish, is a part of the Osphronemidae family. They are a variant of Betta Fish though slightly less popular than their cousins.

Their enticing kaleidoscopic bodies make them ideal candidates for dull tanks. Another appealing fact is their lively activities.

The fish is not the best option for beginners. The reason is their territorial instincts and strong interest in attacking some tank mates to death.

Origin and Habitat

Plakat bettas are native to Southeast Asia. The regions include Cambodia, Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia, Laos, Vietnam, and Myanmar.

They were first sighted in Thailand by King Rama III almost 150 years ago. They were initially distributed within different Thai regions. But with time, the fish made successful attempts at inhabiting aquariums around the world.

Their water conditions and pH levels might slightly differ due to their different origins. We are going to discuss that in depth so stick around till the end.

Appearance

When it comes to offering a ton of different shades, Plakat Bettas are invariably ahead of other fish in the competition.

There are several varieties of them traded around the world. Some of them feature a silver base and sharp blue-colored fins with red patches scattered across their fins and overall bodies.

While the others come in a spectrum of deep-red fins with a touch of orange at the edges. These fish also have a bright silver base laced with deep blue hues. These patches are usually visible at their anal fins.

You might also see some Plakat Bettas featuring their full bodies in a lighter shade of mauvelous pink. The others, however, can report bright yellow fins with shimmery tons of blue. The head looks pink and sometimes red in these species.

If you have a prior experience with bettas, finding the most common variant will be pretty easy.

Plakat Bettas have cylindrical-shaped bodies. As a result, they look quite compressed when compared to a standard betta.

There are only minor differences to tell them apart. One of which is the head. The head recedes to a certain point at their mouths. They have upturned mouths which add to their uniqueness.

However, one of the major differences between them is the fins of Plakat Bettas. They have sword-like pelvic fins, circular-shaped dorsal fins, and elongated anal fins. Their dorsal fins are apparent on the lower side of their back.

Overall, the Plakat Betta has a dramatic tail and a strong frame.

Their fins are generally smaller, helping them stand firm against their opponents. Another reason why they are called strong fighting fish is the prominent rays on their tail and dorsal fins. These rays help them protect their fins from shedding.

Typically, bettas with long flowing fins are seen in aquariums. These long-finned bettas are prone to fin nipping and fin rot. And that’s why aquarists only house them with peaceful fish species.

As common with other fish, telling their genders apart is easy.

The male Plakat Bettas are brighter than the females. They also look larger when compared to their female counterparts. The female Plakat Bettas, however, have multi-colored fins that set them apart.

While in the deeper levels of water, the fish often travel up to the surface. Aside from their gills. they have a labyrinth organ that helps them respire oxygen from the air.

There are some common varieties available in the aquarium line. Here are a few of them that might strike your attention.

Types

There are several Plakat Betta types you can try. Here are the most popular below

1. Dragon

Dragon Betta (video source) or Dragon Scale Betta is variety of Plakat Bettas. They feature a metallic-colored base and sharply pointed scales.

The color of their scales can vary from deep black to reddish brown.

2. Samurai

From the repeated attempts of breeding the Dragon Betta over a lengthy period, the result came out beautifully shocking and unique.

The Samurai Betta might look like the Dragon Betta. But, it has a strong deep black base color with a silver coating around the scales.

There’s another coating of the same shade on the face. You can also see a thick silvery band running lengthwise down its body to the edges.

Samurai Bettas sometimes have their heads covered with white gold, with their middle body sections completely devoid of color patterns. Other times, they have shimmery silver shades striking their fins, backs, and heads.

3. Blue Rim

As a result of intense breeding taking place over the years, this is another beautiful type of Plakat Betta (video source).

The fish from this category has up to 3 different shades. The base appears white, with the fins having a beautiful shade of blue. Sometimes the base can look different depending on the lighting.

4. Nemo

Nemo Betta or the classic Nemo Betta has two different shades. It has a deep red color and a cool shade of melon.

The classic Nemo Betta is often confused with the multi-colored. The easiest way to distinguish them is by looking at their colors.

5. Mustard

Mustard Betta though extremely rate to find is another betta variety.

This type of Plakat Bettas was bred almost 25 to 30 years ago. They are now going extinct due to this fact.

These fish have blue bottoms with mustard-colored fins. Their fins can vary in the deepness of color depending on the process of breeding.

Their fins are not completely the color of mustard. You can light hues of their base color connecting the fins to their bottoms.

While swimming, their fins spread out like fans. And this makes them more enticing to watch.

6. Hellboy

The Hellboy Betta fish (video source) got its name from its unique appearance. This variety of Plakat Bettas has a color combination of charcoal black and bright red.

Like some other types of Plakat Betta, this category is also quite rare to find.

7. Koi Plakat

The Koi Plakat Betta is a high-grade colored fish. Every individual fish from this variety has over 5 different colors which look amazing to the eye. The body coloration in these fish is usually strong, with different shades mixing into one another.

Plakat vs Halfmoon Plakat Betta

The major difference between a Plakat Betta and a Halfmoon Betta is their fins.

If you compare Plakat Bettas with their cousins, fins will be the most noticeable difference among them.

A Halfmoon Betta has long fins. But to dart quickly around, on the battlefield, A Plakat Betta needs short fins to protect them from getting ripped up.

Another contrasting difference is their anal fins. Unlike Plakats, Halfmoon Bettas have shorter anal fins. These fins extend from their abdomens. While the former species have elongated anal fins that project from their backs.

Lifespan

The generally predicated lifespan of healthy Plakat Bettas is between 3 to 5 years.

However, their life expectancy can improve with the level of care and efforts you put into their maintenance.

As Plakat Bettas are almost always in the game of fighting other fish to death. As a result, their overall life endurance can get seriously influenced. So, it’s always better to monitor them closely for as long as possible.

Average Size

Plakat Bettas are pretty small, reaching up to 2 to 3 inches in length only. There’s no difference between the Plakat Bettas coming from the wild versus those who are captive-bred.

Care

In this part, I’ll give you some insights into exactly what goes into their proper management.

Since these fish are infamous for their high territorial behavior, you should be careful about this.

It’s almost impossible for them to open themselves up to other species. The acceptance rate is low. And there’s no way to stem the flow of their constant aggression.

But a proper care guide can improve their health. Apart from food requirements, proper tank setup and water parameters also hold intrinsic value to their transition.

Aquarium Setup

The fish in the wild inhabits areas with low oxygenation levels and high vegetation. They are sometimes found in rice paddies and small rivers and basins.

These fish are naturally trained to adapt to slight acidic-level changes and water shifting. But it’s good to replicate their natural habitat as closely as possible.

They are active swimmers who love to travel. While setting up their tanks, keep the surface open. If the oxygen levels are low, these wild bettas will use their labyrinth organ to fill in their oxygen needs from the surface.

Tank Size

Due to their small size, they are often sold in tiny jars and containers. While the stay in these jars is momentary, beginners fail to realize that they are active fish species.

The minimum tank size of a Plakat Betta is 10 gallons. Because they prefer staying alone, this is a good aquarium size. However, thick supplementation of live plants might disturb their free movement.

Therefore, a larger aquarium setup is better.

Water Parameters

These tropical fish prefer warm water temperatures. So, in their aquariums keep the temperature between 72° F to 82° F. The water hardness should be around 2 to 12 KH with slightly high acidic levels.

But to keep the pH levels accurately regulated, get a water testing kit. You can also use almond leaves in their tank for proper pH control.

Filtration and Aeration

Although these fish are kept alone, negligence in environmental cleanness can lead them to fish diseases.

To give them a healthy environment, you can go for a hang-on-back filter or a sponge filter. A strong filtration system weeds out toxins like ammonia and nitrate, making it safer for your fish to live.

Lighting

Unlike other freshwater fish sensitive to bright lighting, things are different for a Plaket Betta. The fish in the wild is often exposed to natural lighting. They frequently travel to upper water levels to breathe using their labyrinth organ. As a result, their tolerance of bright lighting is pretty good.

While constructing their habitat, you can replicate this condition completely risk-free. You will always see them active during the day while taking rest throughout the night. When the sun goes down, just dim the aquarium light for your fish’s comfort.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Plaket fish gives you the freedom to choose what goes into their tanks.

In their natural habitat, you can see a lot of plants. There are caves, as well as other hideouts that they use during the night hours. But these hiding spots will be beneficial if the fish is stressed.

An anxious Plaket Betta fish losses its ability to withstand potential environmental changes and personal adversities. To keep their remaining energy intact, the last resort is almost always caves or other hideouts.

Also, make sure to introduce live floating plants. Some great recommendations can be Java Fern, Java Moss, Moneywort, Anubias Nana, and Narrow Leaf. These can boost oxygenation levels which is strongly advisable.

For caves, both rock caves and plastic caves are great. Just make sure the edges are smooth because jagged surfaces can hurt your pet.

While using live plants, leave plenty of space on the surface so that the fish can head toward the surface for breathing.

Tank Maintenance

Regardless of how small you think your fish is, tank maintenance holds great importance. Not only does it help you with protecting your investment from going to waste, but it is also essential for your fish’s health.

The easiest way to do this is to follow these tips.

1. Take out plants that have worn leaves and remove dead leaves.
2. Use an algae scrubber to clean off the aquarium walls.
3. Get all the decors out of the tank and wash them off with aquarium water and a toothbrush.

Substrate

They are originally from Southeast Asia where they live in rice paddies and warm water areas. Generally, these areas have a sandy substrate that’s really soft to the touch.

So, adding a good layer of sandy substrate to the base of their aquarium is ideal. You can also use soft rocks and driftwood.

Community Tank Mates

While it’s true that these fish are largely kept solo, you can still find some good tank mates for them in a community tank.

Mostly, the male Plakat Betta has no tolerance for its parallel. The moment two males bump into each other is the moment they start fish fighting. The reason is simple yet quite funny. Both males think that the other will take hold of their territory. To stop the other, they start fighting.

While the males can’t coexist, females have no problem sharing the same tank.

Here are some good tank mates to consider.

1. Honey Gouramis
2. Cory Catfish
3. Diamond Tetras
4. Congo Tetras
5. Cherry Barbs
6. Odessa Barbs

Poor Tank Mates

Any fin-nipping fish is a poor choice for Plaket Bettas and long-finned bettas. Avoid these fish from housing with a Plakat Betta fish.

1. Tiger Barbs
2. Danios
3. Neon Tetras

Breeding

Breeding Plakat Bettas is of course challenging. But it’s not impossible even if you’re a novice. All you need is proper guidance that can lead you to successfully breeding them.

Create a separate breeding tank for them. Then, heat up the water using a heater. You can also cover the surface to raise the temperature. The ideal water temperature should be above 78° F and below 80° F.

The pre-conditioning system should be based on feeding them high-quality protein foods. The timeline for getting ready to mate is at least 2 weeks. In these two weeks, you have to feed them a protein-based diet twice or thrice a week.

After this, guide the pair to the breeding tank. Let them get comfortable with the transition while feeding them the same diet.

While mating, the female Plakat Betta will show deeper shades of colors. The male as a typical methodology will keep chasing her until she gets filled with eggs.

Once they are done, the male will make a bubble nest. To support the nest, there should be plants already in the tank.

The first indication of successful mating and breeding is the male Plakat Bettas blowing bubbles up to the surface. The female will then release the eggs into the water which the males will take to the nest.

The male will fertilize the eggs until they are ready to hatch. It takes them up to three days to hatch. At this point, remove the parents because they can eat up the fry.

The babies take a couple of days to move from egg sacs to other foods. You can give them powdered food at the start. Then, move on to feeding them baby brine shrimp.

Food and Diet

In the wild, these carnivorous fish hunt down insect larvae and bug larvae to thrive. Brine shrimp, micro worms, and other live food are some other sources of protein that they need for healthy survival.

In the aquarium, the diet Plakat Bettas prefer is no different! It is also quite an easy dietary task to perform. 

Sometimes you might find it demanding to give these foods to them. As a result, you will go for commercial foods that pet stores sell. But remember to use a high-end brand. Many pet stores use chemicals in fish foods that are toxic for your pet.

Common Health Problems

Almost every freshwater is susceptible to fish diseases. In the Plakat Betta case, there is no exception. However, they are quite resilient and able to ward off common ailments easily.

According to our knowledge, selective breeding is the prime reason that they withstand common health issues. Here are some common diseases with symptoms of the diseases.

Fin Rot

Plakat Bettas can fight off fin rot, unlike long-finned bettas who are an easy target.

But, not attending to your fish can result in their catching this common disease in freshwater

Some common symptoms of fin rot are:

• Black, white or brown dots on fins or other body parts
• Ragged edges to the fins or tail
• Loss of appetite
• Lethargy

Swim Bladder Disorder

This disease is usually caused by overeating in betta fish.

Symptoms are:

• Staying at the bottom
• Curved back
• Unable to stay upright
• Change in appetite

Ich

Ich is another common disease in fish. This ailment can attack long finned bettas, as well as your biting fish.

Some common symptoms are:

• Lack of activity
• Unable to stay focused
• Visible weakness

Where To Purchase

The best place to purchase Plakat Betta is likely going to be from an online seller. You can also find them at local fish stores, but the best varieties are usually from premium specialized sellers. The link below goes to a trusted seller of ours who sells What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) fish. Give them a try!

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

If you’re looking for an active and beautiful fish to add to your aquarium, the Plakat Betta may be perfect for you. With a little research into their temperament and what other fish they can live with, you can have these fascinating creatures swimming in your tank in no time. Have you kept Plakat Bettas before? Let us know your experience in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

Tiger Barbs don’t have a friendly composition, but how they drive out lethargy from your aquariums is worth admiring.

While going through different fish profiles, they are listed among the most incompatible tank mates. One of the reasons why they give a tough time to aquarists is lack of information on their behavior tendencies.

Tiger Barbs don’t get along with every fish, but they don’t live alone either. So, when choosing Tiger barb tank mates, you need to consider the results of species combinations.

I have outlined the 15 most compatible tank mates with their detailed fundamentals to house your Tiger Barb with. So while many aquarists end up removing their presence in their tanks, you can keep Tiger Barbs happily and completely risk-free.

Choosing Tank Mates – What You Need to Know

As I mentioned earlier, if you don’t understand how Tiger Barbs tend to behave with different fish species, they will be pretty hard to handle.

Matching water parameters, size, temperament, and tolerance power are some contributing factors in a healthy community tank. Sometimes, it depends on how strong the potential tank mate is.

Important: Tiger Barbs are semi aggressive fish with a deep interest in fin nipping. Long finned fish from their own species or fish from other groups can't survive with them.

Here are some of the most essential things to note down before you pick tank mates for your fish.

Temperament

Temperament is the key factor in avoiding/encouraging conflicts between fish species. While many freshwater fish are friendly, calm, and believe in growing their social communities, Tiger Barbs are famous for their territorial aggression.

Since they have temperamental issues, don’t put them with fish that are prone to getting their fins nipped. Any slow-moving fish should be avoided as well.

Size

Choosing tank mates for your Tiger Barbs that align with their size and water conditions is absolutely recommended. Even though Tiger Barbs are only 2 to 3 inches long, they are quick to get hostile which ends in picking on the other fish.

And if the fish is smaller than them, then the chances of consuming the fish are even higher.

Competition

When it comes to competition for food, Tiger Barbs are always ahead of other fish and can even eat tiny fish in the tank. To prevent this from happening, make sure that you are giving good access to food in your aquarium.

Parameters and Tank Setup

Similar to other fish species, Tiger Barbs also need the water parameters of their tank to match their requirements. And while you center your focus on this, don’t forget that there are going to be other fish in the tank that need you to meet their water conditions equally as well.

No matter what fish you choose to pair up with your Tiger Barb, no species can survive incorrect water parameters.

Though some of the fish can tolerate slight changes, remember to consider these parameters before you construct a community tank for Tiger Barbs.

• pH Levels – 6.0 – 8.0
• Water Hardness – 5-19 dGH
• Water Temperature – 77 – 82 degrees Farenheit
• Tank Size – 30 gallons
• Water Flow – Moderate to high

15 Best Tank Mates For Them

Before we delve into the list of their ideal tank mates, I want you to know that Tiger barbs are schooling fish. Housing a single Tiger barb will encourage its hostility towards other fish.

But you can avoid their aggression by keeping a group of 5 or 6 Tiger barbs together. This way, they will keep one another engaged with minor conflicts and won’t disturb their mates.

Also, introducing them after other fish in the tank will reduce their chances of going hostile. We have a video just for you from our YouTube channel. Our blog post goes into more detail so you can check out both. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos each week.

Now let’s go through the list of some of the best Tiger Barb tank mates you can house with them. These fish species are fast-moving, their size, and can withstand minor water siftings.

1. Clown Pleco

• Scientific Name: Panaque maccus
• Adult Size: 3.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Plecos are generally quiet and relaxing with a number of fish species. These tropical freshwater fish are famous as algae eaters and you can also refer to them as armored catfish.

As a general rule of thumb, if a fish has a placid nature, it should be large enough to thrive in tanks inhabited by Tiger Barbs.

Clown Plecos, therefore, are perfect tank mates for Tiger Barbs. They can stretch themselves up to 3.5 inches and live in larger tanks with lots of plants and caves to use as hideouts.

Despite the conflicts within the same species, you will hardly see them harassing their other tank mates.

2. Neon Tetras

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Brazil, Colombia, and Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

With offering you a vast range of types to look up to, Neon Tetras are the ideal Tiger Barb tank mates you will ever run into. These active fish are pretty small, going as big as only one and a half inches. But they hardly intend to disturb other tank mates they live with.

And as much as they are loved for their non-territorial conduct, their unique appearance is yet another plus point. They are fast and athletic enough to deal with a Tiger Barbs behavior

3. Ember Tetra

• Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
• Adult Size: 0.8 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-84 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Brazil
• Swimming Level: Middle

Like Neon Tetra, Ember Tetras are also a very popular aquarium fish. Despite their small size, they make peaceful tank mates for most aquarium fish.

They can live in the same tank where you put Tiger Barbs, but you have to monitor them closely for a couple of days. Like the neon, this tetra species is fast and agile enough to handle the Tiger Barb’s aggression.

Because they are smaller fish compared to other species on the list, they only need a 10-gallon tank to thrive.

4. Clown Loach

• Scientific Name: Botia macracantha
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-85 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
• Care Level: Difficult
• Diet: Carnivore
• Origin: Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Clown Loaches feature probably the most striking colors from the Loach family. Due to its unique appearance that includes deep horizontal stripes with orange and red hues on the body, the fish can help you improve the beauty standard of your community tank.

These peaceful community fish lack scales, making them almost defenseless to poor water conditions.

The standard size of Clown Loaches is 12 inches. But they are wonderful to group with Tiger Barbs. And like other schooling fish, their preference for healthy survival is living in groups.

5. Kuhli Loach

• Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-86 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Despite their size, Kuhli Loaches can feel endangered by Tiger Barbs. To help them shield themselves, you have to give them plenty of caves to use as hiding spots.

They usually stay in caves during the day and travel through the bottom levels during the night hours. This helps them stay away from Tiger Barbs as much as they need.

They are shy and need to live in groups to stay confident.

Kuhli Loaches are not good with fast food consumption, which means you have to opt for both sinking and floating foods for their physical fitness.

6. Swordtail Fish

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorous hellerii
• Adult Size: 6.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Mexico and northern Central America
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

For a Swordtail fish, there is no downside that can hold you back from housing them.

This moderate-sized fish has colorful and striking bodies with a typically larger tail. They are known for establishing harmony within the tanks and species.

Pro Tip: Inhabiting males and females in larger numbers will result in uncontrollable fry. So, it's better to have a limited group of pairs.

7. Red Tail Shark

• Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos bicolor
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Thailand
• Swimming Level: Bottom

A high compatibility rate is essential to consider when choosing Tiger Barb tank mates. Red Tail Shark, therefore, is an excellent and sensible option to go with.

These freshwater sharks can hunt down small fish or any slow-moving fish completely hassle-free. And like Tiger Barbs, they love to play mischievous around fish with sensitive fins or flowing fins.

But apart from these somewhat negative traits, they are known for their super energetic activities and striking color combination. In case you don’t know, Red Tail sharks are good at jumping out of the tank. So, keep a tight-fitting lid on the tank to ensure their safety.

8. Corydoras Catfish

• Scientific Name: Corydoras
• Adult Size: 4.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-80 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom and middle

There are plenty of tank mate options to choose from. But Corydoras Catfish can live up to your expectations as perfectly as other fish species do.

They have a friendly temperament and a good size to coexist with Tiger Barbs.

Aside from bringing along tank cleaning abilities, this hardy fish is a peaceful fish. And it gives you the freedom to choose their diet as long as it matches their basic taste.

They enjoy dense vegetation with properly gauged water parameters. But you have to give them enough swimming space to encourage tourism within.

9. Rosy Barb

• Scientific Name: Puntius conchonius
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 64-72 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level:

Rosy Barb is apparently one of the largest barb fish from its family. This active fish can give your tank a subtle rosy look in addition to enhancing the activity level within the tank.

Rosy barbs are another schooling fish that pose great qualities and skills to share a mutual tank with Tiger Barbs.

10. Cherry

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level: Middle and top

Known for their capacity to withstand temper issues of Tiger Barbs, Cherry Barbs are an excellent candidate for community tanks.

Including their mesmerizing red-colored bodies, these schooling fish are friendly and peacefully tolerant of subtle water changes.

Cherry Barbs prefer planted tanks with plenty of rocks and hideouts. But make sure to give them enough space to swim through the middle water sections.

11. Tinfoil

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanenfeldii
• Adult Size: 14 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-77 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Thailand
• Swimming Level: Bottom and middle

Tinfoil Barbs are pretty large but peaceful fish. They are exceptionally active swimmers that need a minimum 125 gallon tank to enjoy free swimming.

If there are small fish species that feel threatened by a large and very active fish like Tinfoil Barbs, then it’s recommended to avoid the combination.

They are not aggressive fish, which means they can live through the cross temperamental issues of Tiger Barbs.

Pro Tip: Since they are quite big, don't add adult Tinfoil fish with young Tiger Barbs.

12. Platy

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
• Adult Size: 3 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-77 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Central America
• Swimming Level: Top

Platy fish are bright-colored fish that know how to bring peace to community tanks.

They come in various shades, ranging from orange, deep black, subtle red, yellow and silver to sometimes green.

The Platy fish are almost the same size as the typical Tiger Barn size. And like other fish that live in schools, these fish also thrive in groups of at least 5 or 6 from their species.

13. Odessa

• Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Odessa Barb (video source) is perfect to put together with Tiger Barbs due to the similarities between their preferred aquarium type and acidic levels.

These fish are quite energetic that want to leave their mark almost in every corner of their tank. If you want to boost their overall health, keep them in a group of 5, which is actually the least.

Apart from this, another added advantage of keeping them together is their identical dietary requirements.

14. Black Ruby

• Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
• Adult Size: 3 to 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-79 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Black Ruby Barb (video source) stands out pretty well in aquariums because of their peaceful qualities.

They feature beautiful shades of black and purple and love exploring well-planted tanks. Although their water conditions are similar to what a Tiger Barb prefers, they are better off with reduced pH levels.

Fish that are immune to fin-nippers can be an easy target for Black Ruby Barbs. So, I would recommend you to choose tank mates that have small fins.

15. Silver Dollar

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-82 F°
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: Brazil
• Swimming Level: Top

On this list, Silver Dollar is another fish that has a strong interest in constant and fast swimming. These fish mainly consume plants and are cousins of Piranha.

Their shimmering stripes help them stay ahead of other fish in the aquarium line. Not only this, they become instant favorites of beginner and advanced aquarists because of their interesting habits.

Silver Dollar fish do great when kept in a group of 5 or 6. They are rather large fish species when compared to Tiger Barbs, but that’s totally fine. They don’t disturb their tank mates under normal circumstances.

This fish. however, has sensitive fins that your barb can attack pretty easily.

Tank Mates to Avoid

On this list, I walked you through the 15 most compatible tank mates including some of the most popular freshwater fish.

But as much as you want to find the ideal tank mates for your Tiger Barb, there are several fish species you should keep off limits for the welfare of your pet and these species.

Any fish, for example, susceptible to fin nipping should never be kept with tiger barbs. Also, most fish species discussed in this article are fast-moving. Therefore, avoid any slow-moving fish, as well as species that are too small.

Here’s a list of the fish species you should avoid.

1. Gold Fish
2. Betta Fish
3. Guppy Fish
4. Angelfish
5. Discus Fish
6. Fancy Gold Fish

You should avoid housing Tiger Barbs with Angelfish because their fins are long and sensitive to attacks. Another fish species is Gold Fish or Fancy Gold Fish. They too have beautiful long and delicate fins which are an easy target for Tiger Barbs and the temperature preferences are different.

Fish species like Guppy Fish, Betta Fish and Discus Fish are some other bad choices because of their fins.

Community Tank Setup

A perfect aquarium setup is more than necessary here. Since we are going to accommodate different fish species together, understanding their basic water conditions is close to their well-being.

Tank Size

Generally, the size of your community aquarium depends on the number of fish species you have. If there are two Tiger Barbs and a single Clown Loach, then you need to have a tank size of 180 gallons.

Some tropical fish on this list are quite big and need larger tanks for themselves. While others are small, they thrive in groups. Either way, a bigger tank will help you give them the best aquarium life.

In addition to this, fish that are active swimmers need space to enjoy their day-to-day activities. Since you won’t like them running into fish that avoid rapid movements, keep a tank with plenty of space.

Filtration and Aeration

A single fish can produce enough waste to disturb water quality. And when you keep different fish in groups that vary in size and activity, the result will be way more toxic and demanding to handle.

The best possible way to prevent toxins from piling up in your tank is to get a strong filtration system. A hang-on-back filter or a canister filter will be ideal. But make sure whatever devices you go for can create moderate water currents.

Tank Maintenance

Tank maintenance is the key factor directly involved with the overall comfort of your fish.

To get you off the ground, here are some easy tips to follow.

1. Make occasional water changes up to 45-50%.
2. Remove excess food and waste plant material.
3. Use a toothbrush to clean caves and other decors.
4. Clean the aquarium walls with an algae scrubber and top off tank as needed

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

While live plants give way to more oxygenation, they are important for almost all the fish on the list. The species do well when they feel at home, and thick vegetation can give them that home effect.

Some great recommendations for live plants can be:

• Java Fern
• Anubias
• Hornwort
• Java Moss
• Pygmy Chain Sword.

Substrate

For creating substrate, layer the base of the tank with a soft sandy substrate that is at least 2 inches deep. Some bottom dwellers will scan through the substrate for food while others with sensitive bodies can stay safe with a soft substrate.

Use manufactured caves for the bottom. Because bottom dwellers like Clown Pleco and Kuhli Loach can feel safe by their presence in their habitat.

Food and Diet

Your fish need a good range of foods to survive. Even if they tolerate variations in their diet, they still need you to feed them their favorite foods.

Since we have a lot of fish that are active, peaceful, and slightly wild, fair access to food is important.

You can give Tiger Barbs and their tank mates a mixed diet of live food and frozen food. Including, brine shrimp. algae wafers, and fish flakes. Bloodworms, insect larvae, mosquito larvae, and algae are some other great options.

The chances of competition can be really high based on the species. Fish that have friendly dispositions can be left to survive on leftovers. The other species that live in different water sections can also struggle to eat. In this case, using sinking and floating foods will be optimal.

Another crucial thing to keep on the forefront is the amount of food you put in the tank. Some species can get overfed if you don’t monitor who is eating how much.

Pro tip: Keep your Tiger Barbs well-fed to prevent them from nipping at the fins of their mates.

Where to buy their tank mates

All species on this list are hugely popular in the aquarium trade and easy to find. You can check them individually in your local store. And in case your desired fish type is not available, you can check out some online fish stores that you trust for the purchase.

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

If you’re looking for a little more excitement in your tank, tiger barbs can be a great choice. However, finding the right tank mates is key – without them, your tigers may become stressed and aggressive. With the right mix, though, they can be community fish that add beauty and interest to any aquarium. Have you kept tiger barbs before? Let us know your experience in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

The Kuhli Loach is a freshwater fish found in the tropical regions of southeast Asia, which include China and the Philippines. They’re a very unique looking fish that features long eyelashes, long whisker-like barbels (known as mystacial vibrissae), and a slim body that resembles that of an eel.

If you are new to the aquarium trade, I’d recommend reading the complete fish care guide for a better understanding of basic aquarium keeping information.

Let’s go!

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Pangio Kuhlii
Common Names	Coolie Loach, Slimy Loach, Leopard Loach, Giant Coolie Loach, etc.
Family	Cobitidae
Origin	Southest Asia (Indonesia and Malaysia)
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Intermediate
Activity	Nocturnal active fish species
Lifespan	10 to 15 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Bottom Dweller
Minimum Tank Size	20 gallons
Temperature Range	73 to 86° F
Water Hardness	3 to 10 KH
pH Range	5.5 to 6.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Slow
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What Is It?

Kuhli loach, also known as Coolie Loach, Pangio kuhlii, or Acanthophthalmus kuhli belongs to Indonesia and can be commonly found in Singapore, Malaysia, Borneo, and Java. They occupy the bottom of the tank and are scavengers with downward-facing mouths and protruding four pairs of barbels. Kuhli loach is a nocturnal and social animal that enjoys the company of members of their own species.

Kuhli loach is also known as Prickle eye because of the presence of a prickle near their eyes. The prickle near the eyes of Kuhli loach provides protection from predatory fish.

Origin and Habitat

The Kuhli loach or Pangio kuhlii, Coolie Loach is native to Indonesia, Malaysia, and Thailand. Their natural habitat is near the south of the equator where the water is warm and the temperature is around 75 and 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

Appearance

Kuhli loach is an eel-shaped fish with an elongated, scaleless fish body.

Their shape and color combination is more like a snake than a fish. At first glance, it is impossible for novice fish keepers to distinguish the Kuhli loach from eels. Also, they have alternating dark and light color bands that circle their bodies. Like snails or eels, Kuhli loaches slither at the bottom of the tank. The bodies of Kuhli loach are thin with relatively smaller fins and eyes covered in transparent skin. While it has a dorsal fin, it is located much closer to the tail then with other fish.

There are other subtypes of this species as well. These would be the Silver Kuhli Loach. It’s native to Southeast Asia and has a round pointed tail.

Like all scavenger fish, the mouth of Kuhli loach is downward facing with protruding barbles that contain taste buds.

The color of Kuhli loaches is one of the most distinctive characteristics. They are multi-colored with a light pink to brassy yellow base. And over the base color, you can find at least 10 to 15 dark brown stripes.

Size

Wild kuhli loaches grow around 5 inches in length. However, in captivity, Kuhli loaches grow around 3 to 4 inches long.

Lifespan

Under the right conditions, Kuhli Loach lifespan can be between 10 to 15 years. The adult Kuhli Loaches are medium-sized fish. Your fish will grow slowly but steadily throughout their life, and adults can reach a length of 3 to 4 inches (7.6 to 10.1 cm).

Care Guide

Kuhli Loaches are a hardy beginner fish that get along with a variety of other fish. They are also tolerant of cold water and are active when most fish are not. Let’s look into what’s required for their care.

Aquarium Setup

It’s vital that you research your Kuhli Loach thoroughly before you decide to keep it. I can’t stress enough how many people get this fish only to realize later that Kuhli Loach isn’t the best choice for their aquarium. Often, the time and money spent on the Kuhli Loach are wasted. You might as well just replace them if you’re not taking good care of them.

The ability of these fish to adapt to pollution is amazing. But that doesn’t mean they can survive any amount of it. You still have to be very careful about your home aquarium conditions. When you’re introducing a new Kuhli Loach, keep a close eye on water quality and temperature until you’re certain they’re acclimated. Overfeeding your Kuhli Loach can also cause problems. Unfortunately, they do like to eat a lot.

Kuhli Loaches are a very social fish and should ideally be kept in groups of at least three, but larger groups are definitely better. They are not very aggressive towards other fish but may eat smaller fish. This can be prevented by keeping them with larger, peaceful tank mates. They also frequently nip at plants, so keeping them with fast-growing plants (such as swords) may be beneficial.

Kuhli Loach fish are very striking in appearance, with their black vertical stripes against yellow and orange body colors. As I mentioned above, they’re very active fish, and they love to play together.

Tank Setup and Size (Miniumum Tank Size)

A 10-gallon tank will work well. If you want to keep a pair. However, if you want to give the fish space to grow, you should set up a 30-gallon aquarium.

Then again, you don’t want to crowd them either. As a general rule of thumb, you should never have less than 10 gallons of water per fish. This will give them plenty of room to swim, hide, and thrive.

Water Parameters (Tank Conditions)

Kuhli loaches love it when their natural habitat is imitated. And thus, they prefer slow-moving water with water temperatures around 73 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

As for the water, they like it slightly acidic with a pH range of around 5.5 to 6.5. Also, the water hardness should be no more than 5 dGH.

Filtration and Aeration

Filtration rate: 2 to 3 times the aquarium water volume per hour is a good range for Kuhli Loach aquariums.

Being scavengers, Kuhli Loaches are aware of their surroundings. Any change in condition or food is quickly recognized by them. They can leave your aquarium quickly if you are planning to take a vacation for some days. So they help in maintaining a clean fish tank.

If the tank is not cleaned properly, high nitrate & phosphate levels develop that can harm your loaches. Kuhli Loaches need a high level of oxygen in the water to survive. Since they are bottom dwellers, they need to be given some sand as they clean their selves daily on the substrate. They love to dig in the sand too. Allow them to engage in their burrowing habits but purchasing a finer substrate.

Canister filters need a good flow of water to work properly. They are not the best option if you are setting up a small aquarium. However, they are the best mechanical aquarium filters that clean your aquarium water. They can help tank owners keep their fish healthy.

Lighting

The lighting should be moderate to low in an aquarium setting. I advise investing in a dimmable, adjustable LED light.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations (Aquarium Environment)

Kuhli Loaches are nocturnal and emerge from the safety of rockwork, caves, and underneath dense foliage to feed at night. During the day they like to hide out in the dark, so provide plenty of places for them to hide, including driftwood or rock hiding places, as well as leaf litter. Kuhli loaches need a lot of space to explore and should be kept in a minimum 10-gallon aquarium if possible.

Substrate

If you plan on having plants and clay or black substrate, it is a good idea to break up large clumps of the substrate or use fine gravel as a substrate. Avoid the use of crushed gravel, as it can harm delicate loach eyes. Sandy substrate is highly recommended.

It is important to not handle the fish roughly; they are delicate fish that are susceptible to barotrauma and swim bladder disease.

Community Tank Mates

They won’t bother fish that like to hang out at the top or mid-levels of the tank. Pairing a Kuhli Loach with some Smaller cichlids. You can also add some South Asian loaches, catfish, and eels. If you want to get really creative, you can find some other species of fish that are native to the same area as your loaches.

So having a mid-to-bottom dwelling fish with them is a good idea. One of the best tank mates for them would be freshwater snails, red cherry shrimp, and small catfish (Corydoras). While you’ll almost never see them interacting with other fish, this species is very social. They swim in groups and sometimes even bury themselves in substrate right next to each other.

Avoid putting them with larger, aggressive fish such as large cichlids. Aggressive fish that are smaller or territorial where they swim at (the bottom of the tank) should also be avoided.

Breeding

Breeding Kuhli loaches is a daunting task because sociability is the major reason for their daytime disappearance. While kuhlis tolerate each other very well in the confines of a small tank, they tend to squabble when kept in a large group (video source).

As a general rule, it is best to keep no more than three kuhlis per tank. If you have a tank that is large enough to leave them alone (such as 100 gallons or more) and you choose your initial stock wisely, you can keep larger groups than that.

Unfortunately, as Kuhli Loaches mature and start looking for mates, they become shy once again. Both sexes become sexually mature in the first year of their long five-year lifespans (which is longer than much other fish). The dominant male and female will pair up and start to call each other. The eggs are laid on a flat surface, usually a driftwood root or rock.

Still, if you do want to see your fish exploring your tank, there are a few things you can do. 1. 1. 1. First, make sure the tank is large enough.

1. If it has too many hiding places, it can be claustrophobic for the fish.
2. Try adding a few more fish. The more loaches you have, the more likely it is that there will be someone out and about.
3. Finally, try changing the tank’s decor a bit.

Filtration for a kuhli loach separate breeding tank needs to be strong enough to keep ammonia levels low. With a group of kuhlis, the bio-load on the aquarium water is significant and filtration must be able to handle it. The loaches are extremely sensitive to ammonia and nitrite, they will hide, stop eating, and if the levels get too high, will die.

Setting up a separate breeding tank

To breed kuhli loaches, you need to set up an aquarium tailored to their requirements 

1. Fill the tank with water and then add a thin layer of sand (1/2 inch should be plenty).
2. Add lots of hiding place for kuhlis 
3. A fluorescent light about three inches above the tank will serve to provide enough light for plants. I’ve also had good luck with floating plants like water lettuce, which will provide a food source for the fry. The fish will lay their eggs in the space between the saucers and the side of the tank and both parents will guard them.
4. You can also add salt to your water to encourage the adults to spawn, you’ll want a small pump-driven powerhead to circulate that salt water. Keep the salinity at 1.005 to 1.010.
5. Set the aquarium lights on a timer, it’s best if you turn them on before getting up in the morning and turn them off in the evening.
6. Get an aquarium thermometer that reads in tenths of degrees and can be easily attached to the glass.
7. The temperatures should be between 20 degrees C and 24 degrees C (about 70 degrees F to 75 degrees F).

I recommend using a piece of slate tile as the platform because it is easy to clean, and the little “potholes” (little crevices between individual pieces of slate) will provide a safe haven for the fry. A single male with six to 12 females, depending on the size of your tank, will be a good ratio for starting out. If you have less than six female kuhlis, there will not be enough eggs for the male to fertilize.

Food and Diet

Since Kuhli loaches live at the bottom of the tank and are scavengers, they pretty much eat anything accessible to them. But it’s recommended to provide them with regular meals. Kuhli loaches love:

• Plant material
• Insects and larvae
• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Daphnia
• Artemis
• Microworms
• Grindal worms
• Fish Flakes and pellets
• Vegetables
• Frozen bloodworms

The fry of Kuhli loach should be given commercial fry foods or infusoria for the first week of their life.

How often should you feed?

Loaches should be fed at least twice per day but no more than four times per day. That too, only if they can finish their food in 3 to 4 minutes.

Do they eat snails?

Many aquarists get Kuhli loaches because they want to eradicate snails from their home aquariums. Upon asking a few friends, I received mixed answers. Some said they noticed a significant reduction in the eggs of the snails while others said Kuhli loaches did not affect the population of snails at all. Therefore, it is not proven that Kuhli loach will steer your aquarium clean of snails.

However, since it’s a scavenger and despite being a peaceful fish, an opportunistic eater, Kuhli loaches eat snails with damaged shells or dying snails. Again, it’s not proven. 

Common Health Problems

Kuhli loaches are one of the hardiest freshwater fish I know. However, like other fish species, the well-being and life expectancy of kuhli loach depend on water conditions and aquarium requirements.

Kuhli loach diseases are rare, but not uncommon in the aquarium fish industry. 

Bloating

If you notice red streaks on your Kuhli loaches, chances are it’s suffering from bloating. Bloating can be treated by exposing the Kuhli loach fish in 10 to 20 percent saltwater at room temperature.

Symptoms 

1. Bloated stomach
2. Expanded scales that allow more air to enter the body
3. Eyes sunken into the eye sockets
4. Swollen fins

Skinny or Wasting

Surprisingly, Kuhli loaches may appear healthy and happy while deep inside, they are getting skinner even after multiple feedings. This condition is called skinny or wasting. 

Symptoms

1. Protruding stomach
2. Visible spine and ribs

Ich

Like any other freshwater fish, Kuhli loaches can get Ich. However, unlike other fish, the symptoms of ick in Kuhli loaches are mild. The early diagnosis of Ich help in the fast treatment of the disease. However, if it’s more severe, proper medications need to be administered. Also, you may need to quarantine the fish for at least 10 to 14 days.

Symptoms

1. Erratic movements
2. Scratching the bodies against sharp objects in the tank

Differences Between Male and Female Kuhli Loaches

The difference between male and female Kuhli loaches lies in the bodies. Male Kuhli loach has a leaner body as compared to females. Also, the pectoral fins in males are bigger, resembling the shape of a paddle than females.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Kuhli Loach is a unique eel-like peaceful fish that can be a beautiful addition to your aquarium. They are non-aggressive fish and natural tank cleaners that eat anything at the bottom of the tank except your aquatic plants. 

They are hardy freshwater fish species and easy to care for. Just take care of their environment and food and be prepared to nurture them for at least 10 years.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Not every freshwater fish can elevate the beauty of your aquariums while offering you unique physical and personality traits. You might see many aquarists trying to get their hands on a fun-loving fish with low maintenance requirements. But the task is really demanding.

But don’t worry! Yoyo Loach is that fish that knows how to soak up the dullness of your tank and bring liveliness to your fish-keeping experience.

They are hugely popular among aquarists because of their unique appearance and ability to mix in with different fish species.

Even though Yoyo Loaches are pretty hardy, they are not ideal for novices.

From where they hail from to how to look after them, in this guide, you will learn everything about this amazing fish.

An Overview

Scientific Name	Botia Almorhae or Botia Lohachata
Common Names	Yoyo Loach, Pakistani Loach, Almora Loach, Tiger Loach, Yo Loach, Leopard Loach
Family	Botiidae
Origin	Pakistan, Northern India, Nepal
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Very Active
Lifespan	5 to 8 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Bottom Dweller
Minimum Tank Size	30 Gallons
Temperature Range	75 to 86° F
Water Hardness	3 to 10 KH
pH Range	6.5 – 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Low to Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What Is It?

Yoyo Loach, scientifically referred to as Botia Almorhae or Botia Lohachata, is a part of the Botiidae family. These fish are commonly identified as Pakistani Loach or Almora Loach among aquarists.

Despite being pretty small, they are super energetic and social. And across different parts of the world, they are famous for having a cool temperament and the ability to bring uniqueness to the tanks.

Since they have a friendly disposition, a beginner might mistake them to be an easy-to-handle fish species. They are super hardy and there is no argument on that. But they are not devoid of complicated water tank conditions that are difficult for a beginner to handle.

But If you are someone with prior fish-keeping experience, then they are ideal for you to introduce to your tank.

Origin and Habitat

A Yoyo Loach was first sighted in 1920 by a photographer named Ken Childs. They got their name from him and became a colossal hit in the aquarium line right after their discovery.

The reason Ken Childs gave them this name is directly linked with their rapid body movements and color patterns. Someone familiar with Yo-yos would instantly understand why exactly we call them Yoyo Loaches.

These energetic fish live in different regions of Pakistan and Northern India and can also appear in a few territories of Nepal.

Appearance

When it comes to scaling down monotony from freshwater tanks, relying on a Yoyo Loach helps. Aside from their ability to get along with a good range of fish species, Yoyo Loaches are famous for their unique appearance.

But before delving into their full-body description, remember that there are appearance differences within the same group. Their main profile is the same. But they originate from various regions, leading them to have color and pattern variations.

A typical Yoyo Loach has a long cylindrical-shaped body with a head that looks conical. Excluding other physical characteristics, their head shape helps them stand out pretty well.

While going over color differences, you will notice a Pakistani Yoyo Loach is deeper and brighter than those that come from India and Nepal. And this difference makes the process of identification almost seamless.

Most Yoyo Loaches have a silvery base. But some can feature tan, yellow, stone-gray, and brown-colored bottoms. On top of their prime color sits a distinct reticulated pattern. This is another unique feature that sets them apart.

This pattern is net-like or branch-shaped with thin lines and dots scattered across it. In some fish, this pattern is thinner and slightly subdued. Also, the fish are pros at deepening their base color, helping the pattern to give off a refined look.

The mouth of a Yoyo Loach appears downward with a slightly prominent snout. There is then a visible set of four barbels on the snout that helps them operate in the dark. These barbels can fade out whenever Yoyo Loaches are excited or stressed.

They are quite small and due to their very small scales, they look like scaleless fish to some people.

But apart from all these traits, we know them because of their unique golden-black pattern. When young, the bands on their back look like Y or O alphabets, spelling out the word Yoyo.

The stripes can sit closely or at a distance on their bodies. But with time, these bands tend to grow deeper and thicker. These stripes also help them change their coloration according to the background and avoid falling prey to predators in the wild.

And like their branch-shaped pattern, they have a spine that also functions as a shield. This spine is located beneath their eye. But we can’t really see it because of a tissue hiding it.

Including a tiny dorsal fin and a V-shaped caudal fin, they have 6 fins in total. Their fins are overall small and beautiful including a pair of pectoral fins, a pelvic fin, and an anal fin.

To tell their genders apart, look at the size of male Yoyo Loaches and female Yoyo Loaches.

Like other freshwater fish, females are fuller and duller. And while breeding, a female looks even plumper from the abdomen.

Another difference is long red barbels in males that project from their snouts.

Pro Tip: To determine their age, look at the thickness or thinness of their pattern. Younger Yoyo Loaches have narrow lines while adults have wide ones.

Extra Pro Tip: The spine ejects whenever their safety is threatened. So, while shifting them, make sure you don't have direct contact with their knife-like spine.

Lifespan

The average lifespan of a Yoyo Loach ranges from 5 to 8 years in captivity.

A fish that usually lives for this period gives you enough time to understand it completely and become more experienced as an aquarist. While this is an overall healthy lifespan estimation, some aquarists recorded their Yoyo Loaches living up to 10 years.

To get them to live that long, you need to house them in an aquarium that is a solid copy of their natural habitat.

Average Size

A full-grown captive-bred Yoyo Loach is typically 2.5 inches long, which is a pretty small size. Because in the wild, Yoyo Loaches can easily go as big as 6 inches.

A home-bred Yoyo Loach, however, finds it demanding to stretch up to this size.

There are some contributing factors that influence their growth and can help them grow bigger. The major ones are diet, tank size, fish species that they are kept with, and genetics.

Care

A Yoyo Loach is an easy-going fish with a decent tolerance for water shifting. But as I mentioned earlier, they are not beginner friendly.

There are several conditions that you need to consider before housing them. The most important one is the water quality.

In their natural habitat, Yoyo Loaches prefer slightly acidic waters with a temperature above 75° F. The fish doesn’t like fast water currents and react to drastic water changes quite negatively.

They move in schools but can act aggressively toward other fish due to many reasons.

This bottom-feeding fish always loves to have live food on their menu including mosquito larvae and brine shrimp.

Before venturing out to buy them, there are some essential things you need to know.

Fun fact: Yoyo Loaches love to play dead like their cousin Clown Loaches. And they can easily recognize their owners.

Aquarium Setup

A good tank setup is one of the major factors that contribute to their overall fitness.

In the wild, A Yoyo Loach inhabits areas with low pH levels with slightly warmer waters. The streams, tributaries, and rivers they come from comprise freshwater, rocks, and plants.

They are bottom feeders and keep themselves adhered to the foot of water areas. While constructing their habitat, go for a tank that is really deep and at least 30 gallons large.

Another thing to consider is vegetation. Introduce plenty of plants throughout the tank to make the Pakistani Loaches feel at home.

Tank Size

As far as the size of the aquarium goes, a tank that is at least 30 gallons is ideal. For a group of Almora Loach, have a tank that is around 110-112 gallons.

A Yoyo Loach can go as big as 6 inches in the wild. And it clearly shows the ideal size of the tank they need to be in. While a captive-bred Yoyo Loach is typically 2.5 inches long, a bigger and deeper tank will improve its growth rate.

Though the fish is less likely to travel to the upper water sections, it is better to cover the surface with a tight lid or hood to prevent them from displaying their jumping skills.

Water Parameters

A Yoyo Loach can put up with decent water shiftings. But the reason they are not beginner-friendly is their pristine water demands.

Generally, Yoyo Loaches are happy with water temperature that is between 75° F to 86° F. They prefer slightly acidic water. So, keep the pH level between 6.5 to 7.5, with water hardness around 3 to 10 KH.

Filtration and Aeration

The apparently scaleless fish is immune to toxins. Because their scales are too small, they can’t survive in unfiltered water. And the slight presence of ammonia and nitrates can put your fish through different fish diseases.

To help them keep thriving, you can go for a hang-on-back filter or a canister filter.

The filtration system should be strong but should not disturb water currents at a higher level. Some of the fish might enjoy a fast water flow depending on their origin. But they usually love low to moderate flow of water.

To boost oxygenation, consider having air stones or a good bubbling device. Even though Yoyo Loaches tend to do well with moderate water currents, these devices can create a good flow down there.

Pro Tip: To break the water flow, place some plants in the stream, Or you can reroute the vent of the filter against the aquarium glass.

Lighting

A Yoyo Loach does well in a dimly-lit tank. Since you are going to be introducing live plants to their aquarium hobby, mild exposure to natural lighting is perfect.

But to monitor them, you need to have some artificial lighting. So in this case, low-watt aquarium bulbs are a sound choice.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Healthy Yoyo Loaches never want to get deprived of plants. In fact, the presence of live floating plants is a solid replication of their natural environment.

But keeping plants and Yoyo Loaches together can be a bit tough. The reason is their passion for diving into the substrate and consequently damaging the plants.

Also, they will occasionally nibble on plants once in a while to leave their mark on them.

To prevent this from happening while keeping your fish happy, go for thick plants. Some great recommendations are Asian Ambulia, Amazon Sword, Anubias, and Ludwigia repens. You can also consider having Jungle Vallisneria and Corkscrew Vallisneria.

Also, the fish need hiding spots when stressed. Hence, adding manufactured caves throughout the tank is a great choice. But remember to have caves that are similar to their size. They don’t like broad hiding spots and end up getting stressed even more if there’s no hideout.

Tank Maintenance

Tank maintenance is really important that many fish keepers overlook. A good tank provides an ideal environment for the fish to live in. Moreover, a Yoyo Loach is immune to toxins. Therefore, occasional water column changes can keep fish diseases at bay.

Here are some really simple tips to get you started:

How to clean their Tank?

1. Clean the tank walls with mild soap.
2. Change at least 20% water weekly.
3. Use mild soap or liquid for caves.
4. Weed out the waste plant material from the bottom.
5. Do gravel vacuuming every once in a while.

Substrate

As much as other Yoyo Loach care requirements are important, so is the substrate. In fact, the fish is in constant contact with the bottom areas. And because of that, their sensitive barbels can get damaged pretty easily.

In the wild, they spend some portions of their lives inhabiting areas with low to no rocks and vegetation. But the other times they travel to the streams or tributaries where there is thick vegetation.

In their tank setup, go for the latter option.

Create the base of the tank with a soft sandy substrate and add small chunks of driftwood and rocks. The fish tend to dig into the substrate for chewing down any eatable thing or while playing. A gravel substrate can tear their fragile barbels apart. So, stick to a soft sandy substrate.

And as I mentioned earlier, Almora Loaches can uproot plants while looking through the substrate. Therefore, use plants that can withstand their day-to-day activities.

Community Tank Mates

On a typical basis, the fish is easy to pair up with a good range of species. And because they are schooling fish, housing them in groups is better for them to grow healthy.

Even though they have a relaxed temperament, there are fish species they can almost be fatal for. Typically, a Pakistani Loach can be mildly aggressive fish as compared to other loaches.

There are also some aggressive fish that can be a threat to their peace and harmony.

But before listing out ideal tank mates for them, remember that minor conflicts within the same specie or with other fish are pretty normal. During the fight, the fish will appear somewhat dull. But once the peace is established again, they will go back to their earlier state.

Here’s a list of some compatible Yoyo Loach tank mates:

1. Tetras
2. Glass Catfish
3. Clown Loaches
4. Freshwater Angelfish
5. Clown Plecos
6. Mollies
7. Corydoras
8. African Kribensis
9. Goldfish
10. Platys
11. Bristlenose Plecos

Poor Tank Mates

Avoid housing them with fish that are aggressive or can fall prey to your Pakistani Loach.

1. Fancy Goldfish
2. Cichlids
3. Tiger Barb
4. Large Plecos
5. Red Tail Sharks
6. Oscars
7. Bettas
8. Peacock Bass
9. Jack Dempseys

Breeding

Unfortunately, there are no proven strategies or methods to breed them successfully in captivity. It is true that some professional breeders were successful in breeding them in home aquariums. But as someone who is not that experienced cannot do that.

There are multiple reasons why it is hard to breed them in community fish tanks. The major one is that they travel to different areas in the wild.

It is almost impossible to know how exactly they plan out the spawning from attracting the females to laying eggs there (video source of Yoyo loaches spawning). Also, replicating those conditions is extremely demanding.

However, if you persist in breeding them, there are some important things to keep in mind.

To condition them to breed, keep the temperature above 77° F in a 40-gallon aquarium.

A proper diet should include more vegetables on the Yoyo Loach menu with a mild restriction on meaty foods.

Once you are done with that, line the tank with a net to protect the eggs from breaking. Wait for almost a day for the fry to hatch. The eggs look clear initially. Then, they will change the color to gray after a while.

In a single spawning season, a female can lay almost 5000 eggs. But not all of them survive.

Food and Diet

For a healthy fish, you need to give it a good-round diet. Thus, adding good variables of foods on the menu Yoyo Loach prefers should be the priority.

They are omnivorous species of fish. In the wild, they hunt down live foods such as mosquito larvae and insect larvae to thrive. They also love eating fresh vegetables as a good variation.

Fortunately, they are not picky eaters, which means you can give them almost everything to consume.  

As they live at the bottom, feed the food that sinks down the aquarium. You can go for bottom feeder pellets and algae wafers.

Apart from this, source their diet with freeze-dried food and live food. Some good recommendations are mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms, and snails.

Excluding mosquito larvae and brine shrimp, feeding Yoyo Loaches daphnia, bristle worms, algae, plant material, and fish flakes are some wonderful options.

Common Health Problems

Among other freshwater fish, a Yoyo Loach will be the first one to catch common freshwater diseases.

The reason is their small scale. As compared to other fish, the scales on this fish do not offer too much protection. And as a result, they are the first ones to get affected by ailments.

Even though this is common, there is no specific disease to worry about. Due to various reasons, they can come across common fish diseases. Such as Ich, Skinny Disease, and Cotton Ball Disease.

They are also prone to stress so avoid things that can lead them to stress.

Ich

This disease can intrude on your tank because of protozoan Ichthyophthirius multifiliis. This disease is contagious and can affect other fish rapidly. To avoid this, segregate the affected fish. And give mild medication to the single Yoyo loach.

Here are some common symptoms:

1. White patches on fins, gills, and other body organs.
2. Scratching the body against rough surfaces.

Cotton Ball Disease

This is another common fish ailment caused by poor water quality.

Some common symptoms are:

1. While mucus layering around the gills.
2. Shortage of breath
3. Strange swim patterns

Skinny Disease

This skinny disease usually occurs due to internal parasites. This is also known as Chronic Wasting Syndrome.

Some common symptoms are:

1. Loss of color
2. Rubbing against rough objects
3. Loss of appetite
4. Unusual hiding

Treating all these diseases is possible. But you have to be really careful while giving them any medicine. Since they can’t withstand a higher dose or even a normal dose of medication, consider checking labels for products that are safe for loaches.

FAQs

Closing Thoughts

If you’re looking for a generally peaceful, colorful fish to add to your planted or community tank, the Yoyo Loach is a great option. These little guys are social and love to swim in schools, so make sure you have plenty of space for them in your aquarium. Have you kept Yoyo Loaches before? Let us know your experience in the comments!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Are you thinking of adding a pencil fish to your fish tank? If so, you’ll want to read this complete care guide first. In this guide, we’ll cover everything you need to know about keeping pencil fish healthy and happy in your tank. We’ll discuss their habitat, diet, and care requirements, as well as how to properly set up and maintain a tank for pencil fish. So whether you’re a beginner aquarium keeper or just thinking about getting a pet pencil fish, read on for all the information you need to make sure your little aquatic friend stays healthy and happy!

Overview

Scientific Name	Nannostomus spp.
Common Names	Pencil fish
Family	Lebiasinidae
Origin	South America
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Moderate
Activity	Low to Moderat
Lifespan	3 to 5 years
Temperament	Peaceful but aggressive feeders
Tank Level	Bottom to medium level
Minimum Aquarium Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	64°F to 82°F
Water Hardness	4 to 8 KH
pH Range	6.0 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderate
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Origin and Habitat

Like many other fish in the aquarium hobby, pencil fish originate from South America. These fish have a wide range and can be found throughout parts of the Amazon River basin as well as in Venezuela, Peru, Guyana, Suriname, and Colombia. There, they can be found schooling above a leaf-littered substrate or in and out of dense vegetation.

Unlike the many other species they’re found swimming alongside, pencil fish aren’t the most colorful fish. That isn’t to say that these fish aren’t worth keeping, though!

Pencil fish are not commonly found in typical fish stores. They’re easy to keep and can be kept in a community tank, but hobbyists tend to shy away from them. The fact of the matter is that there are more exciting and colorful fish available. However, a school of pencil fish can encourage other fish to come out of hiding and provide an interesting topic for onlookers.

Pencil fish belong to the Nannostomus genus, meaning small mouth. As we’ll see, these fish have very small mouths that can make stocking tank mates easy but feeding difficult. As of now, there are about 19 discovered species, many of which have made their way into the home aquarium.

Appearance

Pencil fish aren’t the biggest or brightest fish you’ll see in the aquarium. However, these fish are still interesting to look at and can definitely bring excitement to the tank where other species can’t.

These fish get their name from their very slender bodies with two pointed ends. Oftentimes, these fish will have thick lateral stripes that help give them a pencil-like appearance. Pencil fish come in relatively plain colors, like browns, yellows, and muted reds. Some of the more intensely colored species may resemble a cherry barb (Puntius titteya).

On average, pencil fish grow to be about 1.5 – 2.0 inches. There are few differences between males and females; males typically have more intense coloration while females are plainer and rounder in shape.

Care

Though not common to see in the aquarium setting, pencil fish are pretty easy to care for. They are small schooling fish with low activity levels that can make a great alternative to a more traditional school of tetras or rasboras.

The only challenging aspect of keeping pencil fish can be fed.

Tank Size

Pencil fish are small fish that don’t need a lot of open swimming space. They’ll float around the middle and bottom portions of the tank in a loose school, investigating each other and the environment around them.

While these freshwater fish only grow to be a couple of inches, they need to be kept in schools. Because of this, the minimum tank size recommended is 10 gallons for the smallest pencil fish species. It is strongly recommended to get upwards of a 29 gallon aquarium to allow for tank mates.

Pencil fish are one of the few fish that does better in a tall tank than in a long tank. Different species of pencil fish prefer different regions of the water column, allowing hobbyists to mix and match for a full spectrum from top to bottom.

Aquarium Setup

Like many other Amazonian species, pencil fish thrive in a planted aquarium. These fish love to pick through leaf litter and forage vegetation for any algae growth. The waters of their natural habitat are typically stained with tannins from driftwood and detritus littering the sandy substrate. These conditions should be matched in the aquarium as best as possible.

Pencil fish are bold and curious fish, but appreciate a backdrop of plants to occasionally swim through. The best part about these fish is that they are considered a dither fish, motivating other shyer-planted tank species to come to the front of the aquarium.

At the same time, pencil fish can be kept in a simple tank setup. These aquarium fish are also suitable for beginners that might not be ready to tackle a full freshwater ecosystem with live plants just yet.

Water Parameters

Pencil fish are tropical fish that need relatively consistent water parameters. They need a constant water temperature between 72-82°F with slightly acidic and soft water. pH should remain between 6.0-7.5 with water hardness between 4-8 KH.

Water pH and water hardness may be lowered by using dried botanicals that release tannins. Not only does this improve water quality, but leaf litter can also be used to provide your fish with food and protection.

Filter and Aeration

Pencil fish do not create a lot of waste, but a lot of waste can be created due to their feeding.

Pencil fish have very small mouths that sometimes make it hard for them to accept traditional fish flake foods or pellets. Because of this, hobbyists often need to crush up foods or give protein-rich live foods. On top of this, many pencil fish refuse to eat off the bottom of the substrate. This can lead to some waste management issues.

The best filtration for pencil fish will be a sponge filter, hang-on back filter, or canister filter that is rated for at least 2x the aquarium size. Additional aeration can help keep waste off the substrate and improve oxygenation but is not necessary for the success of the fish.

Lighting

Like most South American fish, pencil fish appreciate the coverage. Most of the small rivers and streams that run throughout the continent are stained black from botanicals. This makes for very shaded water that helps fish swim in the open.

Pencil fish will do best with dimmed lighting along with some floating plants. Larger background plants may also be used to create more areas of refuge. This will help your pencil fish be more present in the aquarium, which will subsequently encourage other fish to be brave, too.

Community Tank Mates

In general, pencil fish are considered peaceful fish that can be kept with a variety of tank mates. However, there are a few stories about a school of pencil fish being very aggressive to each other and to other fish.

It should be noted that pencil fish can become considerably aggressive for several reasons. Pencil fish can become territorial during feeding times and breeding periods. Try to keep your fish well fed and feed in a separate part of the tank away from the other species. Add additional fish if there is intraspecies aggression.

That being said, pencil fish luckily have very small mouths and they can’t do a ton of damage, especially if they can’t catch the other fish. Some of the best pencil fish tank mates include:

• Tetras
• Barbs
• Rasboras
• Corydoras
• Platies
• South American cichlids

Because of their ability to be more aggressive, pencil fish are a popular tank mate for South American dwarf cichlids, like Apistogramma. Pencil fish can help cichlids be more in the open and there is little need to worry about potential fry being eaten.

How Many Should You Get?’

Pencil fish are social schooling fish and need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. If you are having intraspecies aggression, then adding more pencil fish to the group may help decrease tensions.

Food and Diet

Pencil fish are omnivores but are mostly carnivorous. Feeding these aquarium fish can be slightly more challenging than keeping more common tropical fish, but is relatively straightforward.

There are two things to consider when feeding your pencil fish. One is that they have very small mouths. Two is that these fish are unlikely to eat off the bottom of the tank. This means that small foods that don’t sink fast are ideal.

A varied diet can include live and frozen food, like brine shrimp, daphnia, and microworms. A high-quality fish flake food or pellet may be broken up into smaller pieces. For the most part, these fish will get all the green nutrition they need from the natural flora growing in the aquarium, but an algae flake or pellet along with blanched vegetables may also be supplemented.

All uneaten food should be removed.

Breeding

Pencil fish aren’t the easiest species of freshwater fish to breed, but it has been done before. Beckford’s pencil fish seem to be the easiest to breed (video source).

Pencil fish are egg scatters that don’t provide any care for their young; the eggs are laid, fertilized, and hatched, leaving the fry to fend for themselves. For the best results, a breeding tank is recommended.

This breeding tank should be dimly lit with a dark substrate and plenty of aquatic plants. A sponge filter will keep the aquarium clean and oxygenated without the threat of sucking up babies. When ready, move a group of pencil fish to the aquarium. This is necessary as it can be very difficult to tell males apart from females.

Slowly adjust the water temperature to about 84° F. Feed a high-protein diet. Eventually, males should start to intensify in color. Females may begin to deposit their eggs among the leaves, which will then be fertilized by the male.

It is strongly recommended to remove the adult pencil fish from the aquarium once the eggs have been laid. The eggs hatch and fry and become free-swimming after about a week. The fry should be able to sustain itself on the microorganisms available in the tank, especially if a sponge filter is available. However, crushed-up fish flakes may also be offered.

Eventually, the fry will be able to be removed from the breeding tank.

Types

Of the 19 species of pencil fish known, many have made their way into the aquarium trade. These fish are generally inexpensive, but certain species fetch more money than others.

It should also be noted that pencil fish are still largely wild-caught, which can make for a more difficult transition to the home aquarium.

1. Diptail

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus eques
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Color Pattern: Brown, black, tan
• Unique Traits: Lateral black stripe

Also known as the brown pencil fish or hockey stick pencil fish, the diptail pencil fish has a very natural appearance. These fish live in the Amazon and are excellent micro predators. They are one of the shyer species of pencil fish and will spend their time hunting for small organisms around the tank.

At first glance, this fish might resemble a Siamese algae eater (Crossocheilus oblongus) or Otocinclus catfish.

2. Dwarf

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus marginatus
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Color Pattern: Brown, black, yellow, red
• Unique Traits: Lateral black stripes and red-tipped fins

The dwarf pencil fish is a favorite for nano hobbyists. Some experienced pencil fish keepers like to keep these fish in as little as 5-gallon aquariums.

The dwarf pencil fish originates from Guyana and Suriname with very acidic and soft water. They have been found in pH as low as 4.0.

3. Coral Red

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus mortenthaleri
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Color Pattern: Brown, white, red, black
• Unique Traits: Broad lateral red stripe outline in black

The coral red pencil fish is one of the most popular species of pencil fish in the hobby. These fish are small with a brilliant stripe of red across their bodies. They originate from Peru–given their second most common name, the Peruvian red pencil fish–and appreciate a densely planted aquarium that helps bring out their intense coloration.

4. Golden

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus beckfordi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Color Pattern: Brown, yellow, black, red
• Unique Traits: Lateral black stripe with red fins

Also known as Beckford’s pencil fish, the golden pencil fish is probably the most common species to come across in fish stores. These fish are usually plain in color but can turn incredible shades of red in correct environmental settings and/or during spawning periods.

These fish originate from northeast regions of South America but have been successfully commercially bred.

5. Purple

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus rubrocaudatus
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Color Pattern: Red, blue, black, brown
• Unique Traits: Lateral black stripes with bluish-white to red gradient

Probably one of the most expensive pencil fish available, the purple pencil fish might not be what you expect (video source). These fish are not completely purple as their name suggests. Instead, purple pencil fish have a bluish-white to red gradient from their head to their tail which can appear purple under certain lighting.

Although these Peruvian fish might not be purple, they are one of the larger pencil fish species that can be used to fill up a planted aquarium with intense coloration.

Final Thoughts

When thinking of freshwater fish to add to your aquarium, pencil fish might not be at the top of your list. They might not even be on your list at all. Over the next few years, this will likely change. Pencil fish are great beginner fish that are small and easy to keep.

Hobbyists may run into some initial problems during feeding times and when picking the right tank mates, but pencil fish can either fill up their own space in the aquarium or be used to encourage other shyer species.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Speaking of tetra species, one can never neglect the red eye tetra. 

Despite their dull colors, unlike most tetras, the red eye tetra is adored by many aquarists that adorn their aquariums with bright red hues with yellow accents to add opulence to their interiors.

If you’re also looking to add outstanding variety to your home aquariums, let’s dive into the characteristics of the red eye tetra.

Let’s roll.

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae
Common Names	Lamp Eye Tetra, Yellow-banded Moenkhausia, Monk Tetra, Red Monk Tetra, Redeye Tetra
Family	Characidae
Origin	Found in South America in Paraguay, eastern Bolivia, eastern Peru, and western Brazil.
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Active
Lifespan	3 to 5 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Bottom to medium level
Minimum Aquarium Size	15 to 20 gallons
Temperature Range	72 to 79 °F​
Water Hardness	5 to 20 dH
pH Range	6 to 8
Filtration/Water Flow	Slow
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult
Compatibility	Community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

What Is It?

The red eye tetra is a freshwater aquarium fish with a full body and a typical tetra shape. They reach around 3 inches in length and live up to 5 years in captivity. Red eye tetra is a beginner-friendly fish that feed on animal and plant matter.

Origin and Habitat

The red eye tetra originates from South America in Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentine. However, there are rarely any wild fish available for sale. Because of its popularity, red eye tetras are bred in vast numbers commercially for trade purposes in Asia.

In their natural habitat, they come from clear water with dense vegetation of floating aquarium plants, including Eichhornia and Salvinia. Besides, being a fish from clear waters, the red eye tetras are known to inhabit the cloudy and murky waters of Amazon with heavy plantations.

Appearance

The name, red eye tetra perfectly fits the appearance of these fish since their bodies are shiny and silver in color accentuated by black tails and eyes. Also, the tails of red eye tetra are black with a prominent white border around its edges, making a beautiful outline that grabs attention instantly.

The eyes of red eye tetra have a red outline with the outer rim, bright red, and a black dot on the inside. These colors and markings make red eye tetra a beautiful addition to your aquarium settings.

Average Size

The red eye tetra is a medium-sized fish growing for around 3 inches in the wild and 2 inches in captivity.

Lifespan

If taken good care of, these species of fish can live for up to 5 years in captivity.

Tank Care Guide

Red eye tetras are one of the hardiest tetra species that can live up to 5 years or longer if taken good care of. They are excellent schooling fish and very easy to breed. Thus, the amount of care required to raise a happy and healthy red eye tetra is like any fish that demand nothing but a clean, hygienic aquarium.

Aquarium Setup

If you want to raise a happy and healthy red eye tetra, all you can do is mimic their natural habitat. Red eye tetra thrives in a planted aquarium with low to moderate water flow, a great filtration system, and optimal lighting. Also, since they are schooling fish, the aquarium must have a lot of free swimming space and they should always be kept in a group of 6 or more.

Tank Size

The red eye tetra is an active species of tetra that prefers a tank size of at least 15 gallons if kept in a group of 6. However, if you’re planning to set up a community tank, I recommend a tank size of no less than 20 gallons.

Water Parameters

The Red eye tetra is a tropical freshwater fish that prefers warm, very soft water that is slightly acidic. However, they are known to adapt to hard alkaline water parameters, thus, they can do well in a normal community tank with mixed fish species.

Temperature range: The ideal temperature range for red eye tetras is around 72 to 79 °F​

pH range: The optimal pH range of the red eye tetra tank should be between 6 to 8. Always avoid the drastic shift of pH in the red eye tetra fish tank.​

Water Hardness: Red eye tetra prefers very soft to hard water. The ideal water hardness should be under 180 ppm.

Filtration and Aeration

While installing an aquarium filter, make sure you get one with light currents so there is less water movement since red eye tetra is not a good swimmer and may fall a victim to stress with fast currents. A functional filter with slow water movement is ideal to keep such slow-moving fish happy and thriving.

A good filter will keep your tank clean while an air pump keeps the tank nicely oxygenated, especially if you have fry or a breeding tank with breeding fish. Also, in most cases, the water is Chlorine treated which is harmful to your fish.

Thus, I recommend getting a water conditioner to make the water safe without compromising anything.

Pro Tip: You can also place a small net bag filled with aquarium-friendly peat to the filter. This will help in stimulating blackwater conditions loved by the red eye tetra.

Lighting

These fish species are not at all a fan of bright lighting so you should go for a dimly lit aquarium. However, if you have many live plants in the tank, I suggest investing in an adjustable LED light that suffices the needs of aquatic live plants.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Since the natural habitat of the red eye tetra is densely populated with aquatic plants, I highly recommend setting up an aquarium with live plants. You can use foreground, midground, and background plants.

However, whatever you choose to do, make sure there’s a lot of swimming space available to them. Red eye tetras are surface or middle dwellers and they prefer free swimming space. You can also keep driftwood, Java moss, and Java fern.

I highly advise keeping driftwood as it gives your tetra tank a more natural feel. Also, driftwood release tannins that help maintain the ideal pH of your Red eye tetra tank.

Substrate

To highlight the beautiful colors and patterns of the Red eye tetra fish, you can use a dark substrate. Also, expert aquarists mostly use river sand as the substrate for red eye tetras. 

Community Tank Mates (moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae)

Rd eye tetras are playful, active fish that do pretty well with most fish. However, you have to research well before choosing their tank mates. Red eye tetras are slow-moving fish. Thus, any fish that deviates from this principle would be a problem for your beautiful pets. Also, I won’t suggest getting any long-finned fish as their tank mates provided the fact that they are fin nippers.

The red eye tetra is a schooling fish that should be kept in a group of 6 or more with neutral water conditions. Thus, always keep them in groups and with the same peaceful freshwater fish. If you’re opting for the same species aquarium specimens of the red eye tetra, I recommend getting a tank of at least 15 gallons. The bigger, the better.

However, if you’re going for a community aquarium with other tetra species and freshwater fish, a larger aquarium of 20 gallons should be your bare minimum tank size.

Some of the good tank mates for the red eye tetra (moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae) are:

1. Serpae Tetras
2. Black Neon Tetra
3. Buenos Aires Tetra
4. Rasboras
5. Platy Fish
6. Black Diamond Neon Tetra
7. Rummy Nose Tetra
8. Zebra Danio
9. Giant Danios
10. Western Rainbow Fish
11. Black Skirt Tetra
12. Molly fish
13. L.Guntea Loach
14. Botia Loach
15. Pencil Fish
16. Apple snails

Avoid keeping your red eye tetras with larger or aggressive fish as they might bully and hurt your red eye tetras.

Pro Tip: If you're building a community aquarium, I prefer keeping a combination of bright-colored fish with red eye tetra to add aesthetic value to their tanks. For example, you can keep bright-colored fish like Serpae tetra or Albino Buenos Aires Tetra and cherry barbs with the red-eyed tetras with live aquarium plants, driftwood, and river sand to spruce up the look of your freshwater aquarium tank.

Breeding

I’ll be very honest – breeding red eye tetras is not a piece of cake.

To breed red eye tetra, you need to maintain the optimal conditions that are super hard to hold, especially in the standard tank. For example, a breeding pair would thrive in very soft water that is slightly acidic with floating plants. 

Since the red eye egg tetras are egg scatterers, after successful spawning, they scatter their eggs onto the plants. Thus, floating plants are a requirement for a breeding tank. Therefore, you need separate tanks for a breeding pair of red eyes. Spawning mop material can also be used as shown in the video below by Paul’s Fishroom.

Setting up a separate breeding tank for Red Eye Tetra

As mentioned before, red eye tetras scatter their eggs after successful spawning and usually end up eating them. To set up a separate tank for red eye tetras, you need:

1. An air powered sponge filter to filter out the toxins 
2. Avoid lighting or adjust the lighting to their lowest level
3. Add floating plants, java moss, or any other plastic mesh to collect the eggs before the adult fish start eating them. I suggest using spawning mops
4. Maintain the pH levels and water temperature in your breeding tank. I also suggest adding Indian almond leaf to reduce the pH levels below 7
5. Keep the adult fish in the breeding tank for at least 2 days and monitor the conditions. Remove the fish if you spot eggs at the bottom of the tank
6. The female releases about a dozen eggs after each spawn that are translucent and around the size of a grain
7. The eggs of red eye tetras hatch in around 24 to 48 hours
8. The newly hatched fry gets its nutrients from the yolk sac and can be found free swimming after two days
9. Surprisingly, the baby fry of red eye tetras is comparatively bigger than most tetras. Luckily, they are easy to raise unlike most tetra fry
10. The fry feed on fine live fish food and commercially prepared fry foods. However, during the first few hours of their life, they are fed with infusoria
11. After 3 days of hatching, you can feed the fry with freshly hatched brine shrimp, crushed flakes, mosquito larvae, micro worms, etc. 
12. To keep the fry healthy, it’s crucial to follow a 25% water change after every 3-4 days.

Food and Diet

Red eye tetras are omnivorous and voracious eaters that feed on a varied diet. Thus, feeding red eye tetras is the easiest job but in moderation. In the wild, the red eye tetra usually feeds on worms, insects, crustaceans and plant matter, etc.

However, in captivity, you can feed them with high-quality flake food, pellet food, freeze-dried and frozen food, live food, spirulina-based food, micro worms, mosquito larvae, bloodworms, daphnia, brine shrimp. Also, dried flake foods and granules with some vegetable matter such as spinach leaves and algae-based food would work wonders on the overall health of your fish. I believe that fluval bug bites are a great option for most tropical fish as a food staple.

Common Health Problems and Diseases

One of the best companions you can get is a hardy red eye tetra fish with little to no problems in a well-managed and maintained aquarium setting. Make sure to observe clearly whatever you add to your tank as anything new can introduce fish diseases in the aquarium. Therefore, I always advise novice fish keepers to properly clean all the equipment and quarantine the new fish before adding it to the community aquarium.

However, no fish comes with a guarantee, and like other fish, the red eye tetras are vulnerable to such fish diseases:

1. Skin flukes
2. Parasitic infestations
3. Ichthyobodo infection
4. Parasitic infestations (protozoa, worms, etc.)
5. Bacterial infections (general)
6. Bacterial diseases

If by chance, you find an infected fish in the aquarium, I suggest removing it immediately before the virus spreads in the whole community aquarium. Also, to prevent these diseases, always maintain the water temperature, hardness, and pH, and mimic the natural environment of your red eye tetras. 

Differences Between Male and Female

Like most tetras, the difference between male red eye tetra and female red eye tetra is almost indistinguishable. However, when the females are full of eggs, they will appear much bulkier and rounder than males.

Whereas, the male red eyes get very colorful when they are ready to mate. It is highly recommended to get bright-colored male fish as a breeder fish.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

The red eye tetra Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae are popular freshwater fish that are readily available in the aquarium ecosystem. These fish were first found and caught in the wild. However, now, they are bred in Asia as a hobby. Redeye tetras, despite not being flashy, are an interesting addition to your home aquariums.

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