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  • 21 Great Guppy Tank Mates

    21 Great Guppy Tank Mates

    Are you looking to add more species to your guppy fish aquarium? Guppies are great in a species-only tank, but you can keep them with many other beautiful fish species too. If you would like to set up your own lively guppy community tank, this post is just for you!

    Let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose similar-sized, slow-moving tank mates for your guppies
    • Avoid large predatory fish or any species with a tendency to nip fins
    • The best guppy tank mates are fish that enjoy the same water parameters
    • Almost all freshwater fish will eat baby guppies. Use a separate breeding tank for your breeding projects

    How To Choose Guppy Tank Mates

    Choosing tank mates for guppies is not something you should rush into without careful thought. Sure, these livebearers are really easy-going and get along great with much other fish, but you really want to make sure everyone is comfortable in the same tank.

    There are a few things to consider. Read along as we break these factors down and cover what you need to know when choosing guppy tank mates.

    Water Parameters

    What are water parameters? Well, the tropical fish we keep come from different parts of the world with different climates, geologies, and different environments in general. These factors affect their water, and many fish are specifically adapted to those conditions.

    Guppies are pretty hardy fish, but if you want them to thrive, you’ll need to recreate their natural environment1. Here’s a list of their preferred water parameters and conditions:

    Guppies prefer relatively hard water with neutral to high pH. Of course, any tank mate you choose needs to be comfortable with all of the same water parameters.

    Temperament

    Different fish species have different personalities. Some of it comes down to the individual fish, but you can usually assume that certain types of fish are going to be peaceful and safe to keep with your guppies.

    Guppies are relatively peaceful fish, and the males, in particular, swim slowly due to their long, soft fins. This makes them vulnerable to aggressive fish and fin nippers like tiger barbs.

    Size

    Guppies are small fish. Male guppies reach just 1.5 inches in length, meaning many of the larger freshwater aquarium fish could swallow them whole. The ideal guppy tank mates are smaller than about 3.5 inches and have small mouths.

    Guppies are prolific breeders. The females produce live young, so it’s only a matter of time before you spot some tiny baby fish in your tank.

    Most fish will eat guppy fry, including their own parents! However, there are a few good tank mate options if you’d like some of the babies to survive.

    Best 21 Companions

    Now that you know more about choosing good tank mates for your guppy aquarium let’s dive right in and get to know some of the best examples!

    Take note of the following important information to help you choose the best tank mates for tank size and water conditions. We have a video from our YouTube Channel. Our blog goes over 21 while the youtube video channel goes over the first 10 on this post. Give us a subscribe if you like our videos!

    Each species of fish will include the following stats:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • pH
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?
    • Recommended School Size

    1. Other Types

    Before we get started with other tank mates, take a moment to consider adding more guppies. These fish come in a wonderful array of different colors and fin types, and they all do great in the same conditions!

    I wouldn’t recommend mixing fancy guppy strains if you plan on breeding specific types, but if you don’t mind mixing your breeds, why not pick up a variety of different guppies?

    2. Octocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 74-79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: 2 +

    Otocinclus catfish (or just otos) are one of the most peaceful fish in the aquarium hobby. These nano catfish stay small and only eat algae, so they are a safe choice for guppy breeders.

    Otos can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but they can be tricky to feed in such a small space because they are prolific algae eaters and can run out of food. Supplement their diet with zucchini and algae wafers if necessary.

    3. Cherry Shrimp

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    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

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    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina denticulata sinensis
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 60 – 80 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Any

    Freshwater shrimp are fascinating tank mates for guppies, and you don’t have to worry about them eating your fry. Some guppies will snack on small shrimp, so make sure you have plenty of plants and caves where they can hide. Fine-leaved plants like Java moss are ideal for this.

    There are loads of different freshwater shrimp species and breeds, which come in beautiful colors too. If you’re just starting out with inverts, choose cheaper beginner breeds like cherry shrimp to see if they get along with your fish.

    4. Pygmy Cory Catfish

    Pygmy Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Adult Size: 1.4 inches
    • pH: 6.2 – 7.2
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Possibly
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Pygmy cory catfish are excellent tank mates for guppies. These tiny schooling fish prefer to hang out in the mid-water levels of the tank, unlike their larger bottom-dwelling relatives.

    Pygmy cory catfish are super peaceful, so they are usually a safe bet with shrimp, and they probably won’t snack on your guppy fry either.

    There are many other species of cory catfish in the aquarium hobby, and most of them make great guppy tank mates. However, the larger species will work better in a tank of at least 30 gallons.

    5. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 3+

    Kuhli Loaches are excellent tank mates for guppies if you have water right around neutral on the scale. These strange, stripey eel-like fish are super entertaining to watch as they search the bottom of the tank for morsels.

    These scaleless fish can be pretty shy because they are nocturnal, but you will love seeing them when they come out. Kuhli loaches are also very peaceful, so they won’t ever bother your guppies.

    6. Swordtail Fish

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Adult Size: 5 – 6 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 61 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5+

    Swordtail fish are livebearers, just like your guppies. You’ll see the resemblance when you look at these fish, although swordtails actually grow a lot larger.

    Male swordtails grow long, pointed tail fins which are where they get their name. Swordtails usually make great tankmates for guppies, but the males can sometimes get a little aggressive. I recommend having a backup plan in case things don’t work out between these two popular tropical fish species.

    7. Endler’s Livebearers

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 1 – 1.8 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 86 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 4+

    Endler’s are very similar to guppies and will get along perfectly. In fact, these fish are so closely related that they can breed together to create hybrids. The results are beautiful little fish, but I would not recommend mixing Endler’s and fancy guppies if you are planning on breeding your fish.

    8. Platy Fish

    Platy Fish
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Adult Size: 2 – 3 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8.2
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5+

    Platies are yet another awesome livebearer fish. These colorful fish grow just a little larger than guppies, but they enjoy the same water conditions, making them great guppy tank mates!

    Platies come in many different color varieties, including gold wagtails, neon blues, and even black. Platy fish are easy to feed and easy to care for, so they are a great choice for beginners setting up a community tank.

    9. Black Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    The black neon tetra is a beautiful freshwater fish from South America. These peaceful schooling fish get along great with many other freshwater fish, including guppies!

    These fish grow to a similar size and will thrive on the same diet. Just be sure to pick up a school of at least six black neons. You will love the way they swim together!

    10. Ember Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 8+

    Ember tetras are true nano fish and they make great tank mates for guppies. These golden orange fish have a very peaceful nature and they are the perfect choice for a heavily planted tank.

    Ember tetras prefer slightly acidic to neutral water pH. They will work with guppies if you have a pH of about 7.

    11. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Chili rasboras are tiny freshwater fish from Southeast Asia. These peaceful fish make great guppy tank mates.

    Chili rasbora fish can be a little shy, which is understandable because they are so small. Keep them in a big school in a well-planted aquarium to really enjoy their beautiful colors and patterns.

    12. Galaxy Rasbora (Celestial Pearl Danio)

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5 +

    Galaxy rasbora fish are a great species for your guppy fish tank. These peaceful freshwater fish stay really small at less than an inch, so you can comfortably keep a small school with some guppies in a 15-gallon aquarium.

    Galaxy rasboras are also known as celestial pearl danios, and both names suit them well. They have bright orange fins, and the pearly spots on their sides look just like a starry night sky!

    13. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 1.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 8+

    Harlequin Rasbora fish are a go-to community fish in the aquarium hobby and one of my favorite guppy tank mates. These schooling fish have great colors and personalities and won’t fight with your guppies.

    Harlequin Rasboras do best in fish tanks with plenty of live plants. They will definitely snack on your guppy fry if they can, so consider a separate breeding tank if you want your baby fish to grow out safely.

    14. White Cloud Minnows

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 57 – 71 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6 +

    White cloud minnows are peaceful shoaling fish from China. These small fish have beautiful red fins and a neon stripe down their sides.

    White cloud minnows make awesome guppy tank mates in lower water temperatures. These two freshwater aquarium fish can be kept together in water temperatures between about 66 and 70ยฐF

    15. Cherry Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Cherry barbs are another peaceful species of small, schooling fish that you can keep with guppies. These fish usually thrive in the same water conditions as your guppies, and the two species won’t fight if you keep them in schools.

    Cherry barbs are social fish and need to have a few of their own kind around to be comfortable. Pick up at least six of these beautiful reddish fish, but go for more if you have a big enough tank.

    16. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 1+

    Honey gouramis are small, peaceful relatives of the betta fish. They can be kept on their own as a small centerpiece fish, but are more comfortable in a small group.

    These colorful fish usually have a very peaceful nature, but you can expect males to become a little territorial during the breeding season. At this time they will develop a dark throat and belly that contrasts with their bright yellow or orange body color.

    17. Peacock Gudgeon

    Peacock Gudgeon Fish
    • Scientific Name: Tateurndina ocellicauda
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 79ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6 +

    Peacock gudgeons are unique and colorful fish from Papua New Guinea. These peaceful carnivores will not harm your guppies, although they will snack on their fry.

    Peacock gudgeons are easy to care for, and you can even breed them in your home aquarium. They will feel most at home in a tank with plenty of rocks, driftwood, caves, and live plants.

    18. Bristlenose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.4
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: 1

    Like the otocinclus catfish, bristlenose plecos help to keep your tank clean because they are great algae eaters. These unique fish are hardy and easy to keep, so they are great for beginners. Plecos hang out at the bottom of the tank, and they need a small cave and plenty of driftwood to really thrive.

    Bristlenose plecos are territorial fish, so keep just one in your guppy community tank to avoid any conflict. Fortunately, these fish won’t bother your guppies, and they are unlikely to eat your baby guppies.

    19. Molly Fish

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops / P. latipinna
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 4+

    Molly fish are very similar to guppies in many ways, and they can live together in the same tank. However, mollies grow much larger than guppies, and they can sometimes be a little mean towards their smaller relatives.

    You can certainly try mixing the two species in a 30-gallon or larger community setup. Maintaining excellent water quality and growing plenty of live plants will give you the best chance at success, but have a backup plan ready, just in case.

    20. Female Betta

    Female Betta Group
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 86 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 1

    Betta fish are extremely popular in the aquarium hobby, and many fish keepers wonder if they can live with guppies. However, there are no guarantees because each betta fish has their own personality.

    A single female betta is your best chance at success. They may not be as colorful as the males, but they are still amazing fish and tend to be less aggressive. However, I still recommend having a backup plan, just in case your fish don’t get along.

    21. Shell Dwelling Dwarf Cichlids

    Neolamprologus similis fish
    • Scientific Name: Neolamprologus multifasciatus
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 81 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 2+

    Most Cichlids will not go well with guppies, but the African shell dwellers are an awesome exception. A few species are available in the hobby, but Multis (Neolamprologus multifasciatus) are usually the easiest to find.

    These tiny fish have a fascinating lifestyle. They live in empty snail shells at the bottom of the tank.

    Multis are not very aggressive fish, but they are pretty territorial around their shells, so you’ll find that your guppies tend to hang out at the top. However, shell-dwelling cichlids will eat baby guppies. In fact, guppy fish fry are a great food source for them!

    Planning Your Community Aquarium

    If you already have a healthy guppy tank set up, you might already have everything you need to start a guppy community with other freshwater species. If you’re starting a new tank, here’s what you’ll need:

    • 10+ gallon tank with hood
    • Filter, heater, lighting
    • Gravel or sand substrate
    • Driftwood, rocks, and decorations
    • Live plants (optional)
    • Water test kit and thermometer
    • Gravel vacuum and algae scraper
    • Water conditioner

    Tank Size

    You don’t need a large tank to set up an amazing guppy community aquarium. In fact, many of the fish in this list can be kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons!

    However, there are limits to how many fish you can fit in a nano aquarium. I recommend starting with at least a 15-gallon setup if you want to mix two or more fish species.

    Heating And Filtration

    Guppies are tropical freshwater fish. You will need a heater to keep the water in its preferred range. Choose a heater that is designed to fit your fish tank size.

    Filtration is essential for guppies and their tank mates. There are many different types to choose from, so choose a model that suits your needs. Guppies prefer a low water flow, so sponge filters are a great choice.

    Look at a canister filter designed for your fish tank size for superior filtration. These filters produce little water flow while holding a large amount of filter media for biological and mechanical filtration.

    Choosing Companions

    You won’t be able to keep all the great tankmates in this post in the same tank, so how do you choose? One great way to plan a community tank is to think about where the different fish will hang out in your tank.

    Bottom Dwellers

    Different freshwater fish species swim at different levels in a fish tank. Try including some bottom dwellers to spread the movement in your guppy tank. Bottom dwellers are also great for cleaning up uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

    The following fish are great choices:

    • Cory catfish
    • Kuhli loach
    • Bristlenose pleco

    Schooling Fish

    Guppies are not really schooling fish. They tend to spread out all over the tank when they feel comfortable. A group of schooling fish will make an awesome feature in your guppy community tank. The following species are ideal:

    • Cherry barbs
    • Black neon tetras
    • Chili rasboras
    • Neon Rainbowfish

    Invertebrates

    Invertebrates also make good tank mates for guppies. Consider adding the following species to your guppy tank for even more variety:

    Feeding Your Fish

    You can feed your fish once or twice per day. Some fish keepers prefer to feed their fish three times per day; it all depends on your schedule. The important thing is to avoid overfeeding your fish.

    Too much food can make your fish obese and unhealthy. However, the biggest risk is the accumulation of uneaten food in your aquarium. This leads to poor water quality and even ammonia spikes that can be deadly for your fish.

    Feed your fish only as much food as they can finish in a minute or so. You might need to reduce this amount if you feed your fish more than once daily.

    Ideally, each fish in the tank should get its fair share of food, and nothing should be left behind, so watch your fish to work out the ideal feeding schedule for your tank.

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    Flake food or micro-pellets are ideal for most schooling guppy tank mates, but supplement their diet with brine shrimp and other live or frozen foods from time to time. Bottom feeders like kuhli loaches and cory catfish will eat leftover food, but they should also be fed sinking foods for bottom feeders.

    Water Quality And Tank Maintenance

    Keeping your fish healthy and your tank looking great requires a little effort on your part. Set aside an hour every week or two for regular maintenance, and you will have a beautiful and healthy fish tank for many years!

    Cycling

    Cycle your fish tank before adding any fish. This involves setting up your fish tank and filter and allowing the nitrogen cycle to get started for a few weeks before adding your fish. You can skip this step if you already have a cycled tank with guppies.

    Add new fish in small numbers over a few days or weeks. This will allow your tank to adjust and build stronger colonies of beneficial bacteria.

    Testing

    Test your water quality regularly to monitor the health of your aquarium. You should test your water before adding any fish to know your pH and water hardness levels.

    You’ll also want to test for ammonia and nitrites when cycling your tank. A tank that reads zero parts ammonia and zero parts nitrite is cycled and ready to be stocked.

    Nitrates build up in your water over time. They increase as the beneficial bacteria in your filter break down fish poop and uneaten food. Nitrates are not highly toxic, but you’ll want to keep their levels below about 20 parts per million by performing regular maintenance.

    Water Changes

    Change your water regularly depending on your water test results. You might need to do this once, twice, or four times per month, depending on the size of your tank, your filtration, and how many fish you keep.

    Start by switching off your heater and filter. Remove the water from your tank with your gravel vacuum, taking care to suck up as much waste from the bottom of the tank as possible. Replace the old water with dechlorinated water of the same temperature as your aquarium. Lastly, don’t forget to switch your heater and filter back on!

    Where To Buy

    You will find many of the guppy tank mates in this post at your local fish store. However, some of the less common species, like shell-dwelling cichlids and peacock gudgeons, might be easier to find online. Only buy from trusted retailers that take great care of their livestock.

    FAQs

    Do Guppies Need Aquarium Salt?

    Guppies are a freshwater species, so you do not need to add salt to their tank. Some aquarists add salt when their local water source is very soft, but this is not always unnecessary.

    How Many Can You Have In A 10-Gallon Tank?

    You can keep 5 to 10 adult guppies in a 10-gallon aquarium. The number will depend on the quality of your filtration and how much regular maintenance you do. Space is also an issue, so make sure there is plenty of swimming room.

    Can They Live With Any Fish?

    Guppies can live with many different freshwater fish. The best tank mates for guppies are similar in size and enjoy the same water parameters. Most small schooling fish that prefer neutral to alkaline water will make good tank mates. Avoid aggressive fish like tiger barbs and large fish like oscar fish that will eat your guppies.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    The minimum number of guppies is three. However, stocking one male with three or four females is a better place to start because it spreads out his attention and reduces the stress on the females. You can keep no maximum number of guppies if you have a large enough aquarium.

    Do They Need Other Fish?

    Guppies do not need to live with other fish. In fact, a guppy-only tank is an awesome way to get started in the aquarium hobby and learn to breed your fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Guppies get along really well with many peaceful freshwater fish, but doing your research before pointing out your favorite fish to the salesperson in the shop is always the way to go. Use this guide to help you make an informed decision and choose some awesome new friends for your guppies!

    Which is your favorite guppy fish tank mate? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Marimo Moss Ball Aquarium – A Complete Guide

    Marimo Moss Ball Aquarium – A Complete Guide

    Moss balls, also known as aquatic moss, are a unique addition to any fish tank. Not only do they add color and interest, but they also provide an important function in the tank by filtering the water. If you’re thinking of adding a moss ball to your aquarium or wanting a moss ball aquarium we have you covered. We will go over care tips and environment. Read on for everything you need to know!

    Key Takeaways

    • Marimo moss balls are a unique type of algae rarely found in the wild.
    • This algae has a unique spherical shape that it gets from being rolled around by gentle currents in its natural habitat.
    • Marimo moss balls require little to no extra care in the aquarium and can be kept in hotter or cooler temperatures.
    • Marimo balls can live extremely long lives but have a very, very slow growth rate!

    A Brief Overview Of Moss Balls

    Scientific NameAegagropila linnaei
    Common NamesMarimo moss balls, Moss balls, Cladophora balls, Lake balls
    FamilyPithophoraceae
    OriginJapan, Iceland, and regions of Northern Europe
    Skill LevelVery Easy
    LightingLow to Moderate
    Tank PlacementBottom of tank
    Flow RateLow
    Temperature Range65 – 80ยฐF
    Height<5 inches in diameter
    pH Range6.5 โ€“ 7.0
    Growth RateSlow
    Feed TypeWater column feeder
    Co2 RequirementNo

    Introduction

    Marimo moss balls can be found for sale at most aquariums and pet stores. They can usually be found sitting idly on a shelf in a small container of water, sometimes next to the selection of betta fish. Fortunately, marimo moss balls can withstand these conditions, unlike their betta fish counterparts.

    Marimo moss balls are one of the most interesting yet understated living things you could add to your aquarium. We call these little green balls living things because they don’t quite fit into any other category of fish, plant, or even coral. In fact, moss balls are a type of algae.

    The marimo moss ball is a species of filamentous green algae called Aegagropila linnaei. Their common marimo name originates from Japanese meaning water plant and bouncy ball, which perfectly summarizes its appearance and texture. Though the second part of their common name is moss, this is a misnomer that tends to sell better than an algae label. Even though the marimo moss ball is technically an algae, many hobbyists still refer to them as aquarium plants.

    While marimo moss balls are very common to find in the aquarium hobby, their populations are decreasing in the wild. Habitat destruction and dredging have disrupted the bottoms of lakes where these balls are found while eutrophication–or the accumulation of excess nutrients–has led to excessive algae growth and subsequently limited photosynthesis. All this combined has left marimo moss balls to starve.

    Compared to other plants, marimo moss balls were discovered a long time ago. These algae balls were first discovered in the 1800s on the floor of Lake Zeller in Austria and then later in Japan1. They only just rose in popularity in the aquarium hobby over the past decade.

    Are They A Type Of Pest Algae?

    For a while, marimo moss balls were scientifically categorized as Cladophora aegagropila. If you’re familiar with algae taxonomy, then some red flags might be going up!

    How Does Marimo Moss Ball Look Like

    The Cladophora genus is notorious for housing some of the most frustrating algae species known to the home aquarium. Species of this algae have a similar filamentous texture to marimo balls but grow very quickly and in an unorganized fashion in comparison. It can be very easy to confuse this pest algae for a rogue marimo moss ball but scientists were able to find definitive differences between the Cladophora and Aegagropila genera.

    So, no. Marimo moss balls are not a type of pest algae, though they are still a species of freshwater algae. If you find green algae that happens to look like your moss ball is spreading across the tank, then you’re most likely facing a Cladophora algae problem.

    Cultural Significance

    The marimo moss ball is a very important part of Japanese culture. So much so that it was deemed a national treasure that brings good luck and fortune. Marimo balls may also be given to each other’s significant partner as a way of expressing the heart’s true desires.

    Are They Good For Fish Tanks?

    We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again, algae isn’t inherently bad. In fact, algae is a necessary component of both freshwater and saltwater ecosystems by providing food for fish and invertebrates while also taking and storing nutrients out of the water column. In the same way, marimo moss balls are beneficial for freshwater fish tank setups.

    Marimo moss balls aren’t the most efficient plants you can have in your aquarium, but they’re better than nothing. Aquarium plants depend on nutrients that are available in the water column to grow. These nutrients come from water changes, fish waste, and other organics that enter the system. Plants and algae can then use these nutrients to grow.

    However, marimo moss balls have an extremely slow rate of growth, which means that they don’t need nutrients often. Still, they are processing excess nutrients that would otherwise need to be converted by beneficial bacteria or manually removed.

    At the same time, marimo moss balls also introduce fresh oxygen into the aquarium through photosynthesis; fish and invertebrates create carbon dioxide which can then be used by the algae to create their own food. Freshwater shrimp and snails also appreciate grazing on any waste and detritus that gets stuck on the marimo balls.

    Do They Keep Fish Tanks Clean?

    A marimo ball will not outcompete other more advantageous species of plant or algae. These are slow-growing algae that fail to thrive if overcrowded. So unlike some other species of fast-growing plant that can be used as biological control, a marimo moss ball will not help to remove enough excess nutrients to the point where other algae fail to grow.

    How Long Do They Live In A Fish Tank?

    A very long time. The oldest known marimo ball is about 200 years old and it is unknown how long they can actually live. These algae will continue to live and grow as long as some basic conditions are met. On top of that, marimo moss balls are very hardy and will adapt to most imperfections and sudden changes in their environment.

    Origin And Habitat

    Marimo moss balls are rare to find in the wild and need pretty exact conditions. They prefer cooler temperatures, slower currents, and low light; other species of plant and algae must also be limited so that the marimo balls are not out-competed.

    Marimo balls are native to Japan, Iceland, and regions of Northern Europe. They have also been found in North America and Australia, but are not considered to be native to those regions.

    Marimo moss balls usually live on the bottom of freshwater lakes, but can also be found attached to rocks or free floating. They are most likely to be found in their unique circular shape while on the lake floor where they are gently rolled by tides and currents mostly caused by wind action.

    As mentioned before, the wild marimo moss ball population has been on the decline for many years due to habitat destruction and eutrophication.

    Appearance

    There is nothing else that quite looks like a marimo moss ball. In the wild, marimo balls can have a perfectly rounded shape thanks to the gentle current on the lake floor. In the aquarium, hobbyists cant gently roll their moss balls from time to time to keep this shape intact.

    Marimo balls are green algae that are made up of small individual strands. There is no core. Together, these strands make a compact ball that ranges in size from 2 inches to a foot in diameter. Most aquarium marimo moss balls stay under 5 inches in diameter, which takes a very long time to accomplish.

    Hobbyists should not confuse a marimo ball with a floating Christmas moss ball. These two balls are very similar in appearance and are often sold from the same fish tank. Christmas moss balls are covered in Christmas moss (Vesicularia montagnei), a true freshwater aquarium plant. Christmas moss has long, light green, fuzzy individual strands that take a Christmas-tree shape upon closer inspection. These balls are able to float as there is a buoyant core in the center.

    How Fast Do They Grow?

    Marimo balls are very slow-growing, but how slow is slow? On average, marimo moss balls grow 0.20 inches every year. That means 1 inch every 5 years. Now, recall that these algae can grow to 12 inches in diameter!

    What Maes A Good Tank Mate For Them?

    Moss balls are the perfect addition to both coldwater and tropical fish tanks. Here are just a few fish species that this aquarium algae are perfect for:

    In general, any fish that can be kept with true freshwater plants can successfully be kept with marimo moss balls. Freshwater shrimp and snails will also especially love foraging on and around marimo balls as food and detritus get stuck.

    A marimo ball is also a great alternative to other live plants for small betta fish tanks. Some betta fish like to pick at plants, but will generally ignore marimo moss balls.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    We mentioned that a marimo moss ball is a great addition to a coldwater setup, like one designed with goldfish in mind. Goldfish will love to nip at their marimo ball, pushing them around the tank to help keep their round shape. However, that curiosity and fun can quickly turn into an appetite. For this reason, we recommend using caution when introducing a moss ball into a goldfish aquarium.

    For the same reason, use with cichlids should also be watched. Many cichlids like to move the decorations in their homes around, which can help keep a moss ball round but can also become food or destroyed over time.

    Other species to avoid with marimo moss balls are plecos and crayfish.

    Are They Harmful To Fish?

    It is true that some species of algae can be harmful to fish and invertebrates, especially when eaten. However, there is no known toxicity or lethality associated with Aegagropila linnaei, making them perfectly safe to use with fish and invertebrates!

    Feeding Moss Balls

    Moss balls are very undemanding. They do not require a lot of light or nutrients.

    In general, feeding your moss ball is unnecessary. As long as there are available nutrients in the water from fish waste and other organics, there should be enough food in the water column for your moss to survive. For this same reason, carbon dioxide injections are also not needed.

    If you’re placing your moss ball in a heavily planted tank, then you may want to dose liquid or dry fertilizers to help keep nutrients available for the slower-growing species.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    How much and how often you feed your planted aquarium with fertilizers is dependent on how nutrients move throughout the system. If you find that you have low nitrates, generally considered under 10 ppm for a planted tank, then you may need to dose supplements to keep nutrients available.

    Care

    Marimo moss ball care is simple and straightforward. In fact, your algae ball might be even easier to keep alive than some pest snail species.

    There are a few conditions that need to be met to keep your marimo moss ball happy and healthy, though.

    What Do They Need In Their Tank?

    Marimo moss balls don’t need to be kept in a conventional planted tank with strong lighting or carbon dioxide dosers.

    In fact, many people keep marimo moss balls in glass jars on their bookshelf without any substrate, filtration, or air movement; some rerolling and water changes may be needed from time to time. The only requirement is that they are constantly submerged and exposed to low to moderate lighting for at least 7 hours a day.

    Marimo moss balls can be kept on a gravel or sand substrate or on a bare bottom. They are most commonly kept on the bottom of the tank, but they can be attached to rock and driftwood as well.

    Otherwise, marimo moss balls don’t even need to be kept with fish or invertebrates and can be used for household decoration!

    Planted Tank Parameters For A Tank

    Marimo balls do not need any special water parameters. They are very hardy and can withstand fluctuating parameters and temperatures as long as they aren’t stressed too much.

    That being said, this aquarium algae does best when kept in a cooler area of the home or in a coldwater or tropical setup. The water temperature should remain steady between 65 and 80ยฐF. When kept with fish, pH should remain fairly neutral around 7.0 with 0 ppm ammonia and nitrite and minimal nitrates.

    Marimo moss balls should also be kept in dechlorinated water, no matter if kept in a jar or in a fish tank. Water dechlorinators and cheap and easy to use.

    Lighting

    Marimo moss balls live on the lake floor where sunlight struggles to penetrate. This means that, in the home aquarium, lighting does not need to be strong either. Marimo balls do best when grown under low to moderate lighting. Too much light can cause the algae to burn, which will cause discoloration. Not enough light may cause the algae to grow looser and turn brown or white as well.

    If keeping a marimo moss ball without artificial lighting, then it’s important to make sure that it is getting enough light to photosynthesize. This usually means indirect sunlight for at least 7 hours or more.

    It is also important to remember that the bottom of the marimo moss ball needs to get sunlight too. To help prevent brown spots from forming on the underside of the ball, the moss ball should be rotated about every week or so. Many hobbyists do this during their weekly water change schedule.

    Filtration 

    Marimo balls do not require filtration, though it’s strongly recommended to use a sponge filter or hang on the back filter. Canister filters can be overly strong for your moss ball.

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    If you decide not to use filtration when keeping marimo balls, then regular water changes will be needed to keep the water healthy.

    Flow

    When it comes to keeping marimo moss balls, flow is more important than filtration.

    The ideal water flow for a moss ball would be gentle and random. This would imitate the light currents found at the bottom of freshwater lakes that help keep this algae rounded. Unfortunately, this isn’t really possible in the aquarium unless filters or an air stone are hooked up to a timer.

    The best way to imitate these conditions is by placing the moss ball near a filter or air bubbles so that the ball is gently rocked back and forth. This helps bring water movement under the moss ball and slowly turns it over.

    If this is not possible, then you will need to manually reshape your marimo ball from time to time.

    How To Keep Them Round

    Marimo balls are popular due to their minimal care requirements and unique round shape. Unfortunately, this algae doesn’t naturally grow in a spherical shape and depends on environmental factors to round it out.

    Luckily, it’s easy to keep your moss ball in shape. Every couple of weeks, simply remove your marimo ball from the water and roll it around in your hands. It should easily return to its compact shape.

    At the same time, it’s recommended to gently squeeze out your moss ball with old aquarium water. Detritus easily gets stuck in marimo balls and rinsing them occasionally can help remove some of this waste.

    How To Propagate

    In all honesty, it is usually easier to buy another moss ball than it is to propagate one that you already own. This is because of how long it takes for this algae to grow.

    The easiest way to propagate marimo moss balls is by cutting them in half and reshaping the new pieces into spheres. It may be necessary to use thread or fishing line to wrap around the new pieces until they hold their shape on their own.

    The problem is that it will take years for both these new pieces to reach the size that the original piece was. Because of this, it’s recommended to buy an entirely new marimo moss ball of similar size instead.

    Introducing Them To The Tank

    Introducing marimo balls into the freshwater aquarium is easy, though it wasn’t so easy a few years ago. In 2021, zebra mussels (Dreissena polymorpha), small invasive freshwater mussels, were discovered living inside store-bought marimo balls. Luckily, the problem was caught early on and infected marimo balls were recalled.

    To safely introduce your marimo ball into its new tank, first, rinse it off with old tank water. This will help remove the tank water from the store, which could possibly contain unwanted chemicals and pests.

    Next, place the marimo moss ball in its desired location. It may float in the water column for a couple of days until it becomes waterlogged. You may tie it down or wait for it to naturally settle.

    And that’s it! With some regular rinsing and reshaping, you will have your marimo moss ball for decades.

    Health And Disease

    Marimo moss balls are very hardy and resilient to internal and external stresses. However, they can start to develop white or brown spots if there is too much or not enough lighting.

    Signs Of Health

    A healthy marimo moss ball will be fuzzy and bouncy. The dark or bright green coloration should be even across the surface. This algae should be easy to mold into a circular shape, but firm enough that it holds its own in the water.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    A struggling marimo ball may be brown, yellow, or white. This is usually indicative of a lighting issue instead of a nutrient problem.

    If your marimo ball develops discolored spots on one side, make sure that lighting is even across the surface of the ball. Discoloration can either mean too much or too little light. It can also mean that the ball has been on one side for too long.

    In time, this discoloration will grow out on its own. If there is not a large area present, then the marimo ball may be trimmed once placed in better conditions.

    Where To Buy

    Marimo moss balls may be conveniently found at your local fish or pet store. They are often sold in little cups near other fish tank decorations or near the betta display. If your store of choice does not carry them, they can easily be bought and shipped through online stores.

    On average, small moss balls retail for about $5. Larger ones can cost upwards of $15.

    Final Thoughts

    Marimo moss balls aren’t like other aquarium plants, in fact, they’re not considered plants at all. This unique algae is rare in the wild but has become a staple for coldwater tanks and betta fish setups. Moss balls require little to no extra care but need to be rerolled every once in a while to maintain their circular shape.

    If you don’t feel like adding marimo balls to your fish tank, then you can even keep them in glass jars around your home as decoration!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Do Goldfish Sleep? (How To Tell And Patterns)

    Do Goldfish Sleep? (How To Tell And Patterns)

    Have you ever wondered whether your pet goldfish sleeps? You can go up to your goldfish tank at any time of day or night and see your pet with its eyes wide open. So how do your goldfish rest? The fact is that goldfish do sleep, but there’s a lot more to learn, so read along to learn all about your goldfish’s sleeping habits!

    Key Takeaways

    • Goldfish do, in fact, sleep. Fish can enter deep sleep at night1
    • A resting goldfish and a sick goldfish are two different things. Learn about the differing behaviors
    • Incorrect parameters can lead to a fish resting or getting sick. Keep your parameters in check and monitor them

    How Do Goldfish Sleep?

    Goldfish might not tuck themselves under the covers each night, but they certainly do sleep! However, fish don’t sleep in the same way that you and I do. When goldfish sleep, their metabolism slows, and they become inactive. Research has shown that fish can enter deep sleep at night1.

    Until recently, fish were not thought to exhibit rapid eye movement or REM sleep like ourselves and other mammals. However, scientists have discovered that zebra danios enter a pretty similar state. We don’t know if danios or other fish like goldfish dream, but it’s certainly possible.

    Goldfish sleep at the bottom of their tank to feel safer from predators. You might also find them sleeping between live plants or aquarium decorations where they can stay more still and feel secure.

    Why Do They Sleep?

    All that swimming and exploring in your aquarium certainly tires out your goldfish, so they need to rest regularly to stay healthy.

    When

    Goldfish don’t fall asleep like people each night, but they get most of their rest when it’s dark. That’s why providing your goldfish with a natural day and night cycle is important.

    What is a fancy goldfish

    Running your aquarium lights all day and night can result in a sleep-deprived goldfish, so be sure to switch off the tank lights for at least twelve hours a day. Keeping your lights on for 6 to 8 hours a day is recommended because more than that can cause algae issues.

    The best way to keep things regular in your tank is to set your aquarium lights on a timer. That way you won’t forget to switch the lights on or off.

    Goldfish are sensitive to loud noises and sudden movements when they sleep at night. High noise levels will disturb your fish’s sleep schedule, so never put speakers or televisions next to your goldfish tank.

    How Long?

    Goldfish can sleep for short periods or for many hours at a time. Some goldfish nap during the day, while others sleep at night. Creating regular light and dark periods each day will allow your goldfish to develop its own natural sleeping pattern and get enough sleep.

    Some goldfish owners report that their pets go to sleep in the same spot each night and are still there each morning. The important thing is to let your goldfish rest each day in a dark and quiet environment.

    If your goldfish is not getting enough rest, it could cause stress and weaken its immune system in the long run.

    Why Don’t Fish Close Their Eyes?

    The simple answer to this common goldfish question is that fish don’t have eyelids. Eyelids are very useful for keeping our eyes moist and free of dust and other irritating particles. This isn’t a problem underwater, so goldfish don’t need to blink!

    Is My Fish Sleeping Or Sick?

    Many new goldfish owners are surprised to learn that their fish sleep, and it can be pretty worrying to see your pet sleeping motionless for long periods. However, you can rest assured that this behavior is completely normal.

    However, goldfish can get sick with conditions like swim bladder disease from time to time, so it’s good to know if your goldfish is sleeping or showing signs of poor health.

    Read on to learn what to look out for.

    Signs Your Goldfish Is Sick

    • Seeing your goldfish sleep upside down or leaning to one side could indicate swim bladder problems. Swim bladder disorder is a common illness among goldfish and other pet fish. This condition causes buoyancy issues which can make your fish sink, float, or swim erratically.
    • Cloudy eyes, sores, or a white film over the body are often signs of a bacterial infection.
    • Missing scales, white spots, and scratching against the substrate are common signs of parasites.
    • Rapid breathing is a clear sign of stress, which can cause illness in your goldfish. Poor water quality, drastic water temperature changes, and disease can cause this common symptom. Rapid breathing can also result from low oxygen levels. Running an air pump and airstone can be helpful.

    Signs Your Fish Are Sleeping

    • Your goldfish is sleeping if it’s stationary at the bottom of the tank or hovering about an inch above the substrate. Most healthy goldfish rest at night when it’s dark, but you might find your goldfish sleeping any time.
    • Sleeping goldfish often tilt their head downward slightly but keep their body upright.
    • Your goldfish’s color might be a little dull when it is sleeping. This can help your fish hide from predators.
    • Sleeping fish can breathe without swimming. They gulp water to maintain a constant flow through their gills.

    What To Do If They Are Sick

    Accurately diagnosing illnesses in freshwater fish can be tricky, but you can often find the cause of your fish’s health problems, and there’s a good chance that you can treat your pet at home.

    Fish get sick when they are under stress, and stress is often caused by bad environmental conditions. What does that mean? Well, your fish need clean, healthy tank water at the right temperature.

    • Test your water quality

    Goldfish are pretty messy fish, so they need good filtration and a tank of at least 30 gallons to stay healthy. Your water quality can become dangerous if you don’t cycle your aquarium and perform regular water changes.

    Your water should contain no traces of ammonia or nitrite. Nitrates can harm goldfish in high concentrations, so keep them below 40 ppm. A level of 20 ppm or less is ideal for long-term care.

    • Check your water temperature

    Goldfish are coldwater fish that prefer a lower temperature range than most other fish. They should be kept in water temperatures between 68 and 74ยฐF. Tropical fish tank water temperatures will harm your goldfish in the long run.

    Aquarium heaters are adjustable, and they do show the water temperature. However, these readings can be pretty inaccurate. I recommend getting a thermometer so you can monitor your water temperature easily.

    Digital thermometers with built-in alarms are great for this purpose. These handy machines let you know if the water gets too hot or cold for your goldfish.

    • Other Parameters

    Poor water quality with high ammonia levels and high water temperature are common causes of stress, but goldfish also have other preferred water parameters. Aim for the following readings:

    • pH: 7 – 8.4
    • gH: 100 – 300 ppm
    • KH: 50 – 120 ppm

    You can test these parameters with a master test kit. Any inconsistencies can cause stress on your goldfish and will need to be addressed as soon as possible.

    Treating

    Providing correct treatments for your goldfish can mean the differences between live and dead fish. Goldfish are susceptible to many illnesses, and it’s not always the fishkeeper’s fault when things go wrong.

    Let’s look at some things you can do to help a sick goldfish.

    • Move the sick fish into a quarantine tank

    A quarantine tank is a small tank where you can administer treatments to your sick goldfish without affecting your other fish or aquatic animals. Your quarantine tank should hold at least a few gallons of water and have its own filter.

    Test the water before moving your fish. If the water in your main tank is the problem, you’ll need to use fresh, dechlorinated water instead.

    • Observe Your Goldfish

    If your fish is not in obvious danger, observe it for a few days and give it a chance to recover. Starting an immediate treatment is not always necessary.

    • Treatment

    If your goldfish is in obvious distress or not improving, contact your vet and ask for advice.
    There are some excellent fish medications available that you can administer yourself at home.

    Condition-specific medicines are highly effective, but you can also treat several common fish illnesses with aquarium salt.

    FAQs

    Do The Sleep With Their Eyes Open?

    Goldfish cannot close their eyes because they do not have any eyelids. This means they have no choice but to sleep with their eyes open.

    Do Goldfish Recognize Their Owners?

    Goldfish do have the ability to recognize their owners. It has been proven that some fish can recognize human faces, which probably explains why your goldfish might recognize you but fear other people.

    Do Goldfish Need Light At Night?

    Goldfish do not need light at night. Goldfish naturally sleep at night in nature when the only light comes from the stars and the moon. You can keep your aquarium lights on for a few hours in the evening to enjoy your fish, but make sure the lights go off for the rest of the night.

    How Many Hours Do They Sleep?

    Goldfish sleep for 8 to 12 hours per day.

    Why Do They Sleep On The Bottom Of The Tank?

    Goldfish tend to sleep on the bottom because it helps them hide from predators. There is also much less current at the bottom, so they can relax and sleep without being washed around.

    Do They Like It Dark At Night?

    Goldfish prefer a natural daylight cycle of light and dark. Keep your tank dark during the day if you like to have your aquarium lights on at night.

    Is It Normal For Them To Rest At The Bottom Of The Tank?

    Goldfish sleep at, or just above, the bottom of their tank. They may stay on the bottom, sitting still for several hours. However, your goldfish may be sick if it is upside down, on its side, or breathing rapidly.

    Final Thoughts

    So now you know, goldfish sleep too! Don’t worry if you find your fancy goldfish sleeping. They need their forty winks, too, even if it is technically impossible for them to get any shut-eye.

    Have you seen your goldfish sleeping? Tell us about it in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Why Are My Fish Dying (12 Reasons Why)

    Why Are My Fish Dying (12 Reasons Why)

    Fishkeeping is a fun and exciting hobby that comes with its own shortcomings. However, the main challenge many fish aquarists face while keeping a fish tank is aquarium tank fish deaths. 

    There are a number of factors that contribute to aquarium fish deaths. In this article, I’m going to list the top 12 answers for why are my fish dying. I’ll show you how to prevent frequent aquarium fish deaths and how to overcome the loss. 

    Keep reading!

    Key Takeaways

    • Stress and disease are the primary reasons why fish will die
    • Poor tankmates and improper water parameters can lead to stress
    • Regular maintenance is a great way to keep stress down and keep your fish healthy

    Top 12 Reasons Why Your Fish Are Dying

    1. Improper Tank Setup

    The most frequent cause of fish death is an improper aquarium. When the fish tank is not set up properly, most of the time, all or many of the fish perish. It primarily occurred with beginners. The fish may pass almost instantly in extremely severe tank conditions, but usually, it takes a few days or a week. It occurs as a result of improper tank cycling.

    We tend to believe that aquariums are home to only fish, not realizing that a healthy aquarium also includes tiny organisms, of which a healthy bacterial colony is an integral part. Although they are distributed throughout the tank, the gravel and filter continue to hold the majority of them. They aid in the tank’s waste breakdown and maintain the water’s quality. 

    Dirty Fish Tank

    Bacteria have a symbiotic relationship with the fish by eating and surviving off the fish and their food. In return, the bacteria help to make the water in the tank suitable for the fish. Therefore, a balance between the two is necessary to maintain the tank’s health.

    A microbial colony is absent from a new or fresh tank. As a result, you must cycle a new tank to establish the microbe colony1. A fish tank typically comes with an instruction book that explains how to cycle it.

    However, I advise learning more about the nitrogen cycle and the various ways to cycle a new aquarium so that you are aware of the options and may choose the most appropriate approach. Avoid introducing the fish until the tank has completed its cycle.

    Even if you’ve already cycled the tank properly, avoid adding too many fish at once in a fish tank. The germs require time to multiply, along with the quantity of fish in your tank.

    Therefore, if you intend to add 15 to 20 fish to your aquarium, we advise adding four or five at a time over a period of weeks. This will allow the bacteria colony to grow at its own rate; hence, the death rate will be much less.

    2. Stress and Disease

    The most common reason for a fish’s death is stress and diseases. The stressed or diseased fish will most likely die if you don’t solve the problem. The main cause of stress in fish is the lack of tank preparation, which is imperative to maintaining an overall healthy fish tank. 

    Surprisingly, all the ten reasons for your fish deaths cause stress in your fish in one way or another. However, here are some common signs that your fish is stressed out.

    Surfing around the glass

    If you see your fish continually swimming up and down and furiously moving around the sides of the tank, it may be because they are stressed. This is known as surfing around the glass

    It demonstrates how the fish feels trapped inside the aquarium and longs to enjoy himself somewhere else. It might be due to the aquarium being too full, the water not being of good quality, certain species attacking it, or anything else.

    Diseases

    Another significant factor contributing to stress in fish is illness.

    Illness is also caused by stress. If a fish becomes ill frequently, it may be because it is experiencing ongoing stress. 

    They are more susceptible to contracting various illnesses because stress negatively impacts immunity. Identify the origin of the stress since, if there is an ailment, one fish could spread the sickness to the entire school of fish, so be careful to know the cause.

    Losing weight

    If you find that your fish are getting thinner than they used to be, this indicates that they are losing weight for some reason. 

    Although you can’t always weigh the fish, you can still detect if they are starting to lose weight. Even after eating a healthy meal, stressed fish may begin to lose weight and feel lethargic.

    Excessive hiding 

    When we’re terrified, we all tend to hide. Similarly, fish behave the same as humans by hiding when they feel uneasy or desire some calm. 

    Your fish may be trying to hide under the plants, at the bottom of the tank, or beneath the aquarium accessories; if you spot them doing this, the causes are evident.

    1. Your fish are facing bully or aggression from other aggressive fish
    2. Small or inadequate tank size for your fish

    Thus, before choosing any tank mate for your fish aquarium, be sure to research the behavior, the compatibility with other species, and the minimum tank size required to keep your fish healthy.

    3. Aggressive Tankmates & Incompatible

    Some fish species have a hostile nature. Other fish will battle with them. Tiger barbs are well-known for this type of behavior. They make the other fish in the tank anxious. That might be the cause of some of them passing away. 

    Wolf Cichlid

    To cater to this, I advise having a backup little tank handy when you set up your first fish aquarium. Take note of the fish community’s activities in the main tank. The combative ones can be moved to another tank.

    4. Water Quality and Water Parameters

    You can only imagine how crucial it is to maintain ideal water quality to keep fish disease-free and alive! Your aquarium’s water is the contained environment that supports your fish. 

    Numerous variables, most of which are primarily related to unstable water characteristics, might result in a decline in water quality. 

    If you haven’t been checking the water in the tank with aquarium test kits, a lot of guesswork is probably involved in determining why your fish keep dying

    The majority of aquarium fish have a rather narrow range of water requirements that they must meet in order to survive. Therefore, crystal-clear water is not always a good indication of the quality of the water in a tank.

    Here’s what you can do to maintain water quality and water parameters for a healthy fish tank.

    1. Every week, test the various water characteristics (pH, ammonia/nitrites, salinity, water hardness, Mg, Ca, etc.).ย 
    2. Keep pH levels stable and within an acceptable range for the fish species, you have in the tank rather than attempting to achieve the ideal pH level (or any other parameter).ย 
    3. If your fish keep dying, do this! To stop further pet fish deaths, act quickly when there are obvious warning signs (ammonia level spikes). This might entail performing a 50% tank water change right away, followed by careful monitoring of the ammonia/nitrite levels until the water quality is stabilized.

    5. Wrong Aquarium Size

    The right tank size for your setup depends more on the quantity and kind of fish you intend to keep in it than it does on where you intend to keep it. 

    Fish can become so stressed out that they eventually die when kept in a tank that is too tiny to allow them to have free swimming spaces. Although a bit extreme, it is possible because stress increases the susceptibility of fish to illnesses and early demise. 

    The most common reason for getting the wrong-sized tank is when a fishkeeper purchases pet fish when they are still young without doing any study on how big those fish can go or what their tank setup requirements are.

    To avoid this, there are two things you should consider before buying the fish tank.

    1. The place where you’re going to place the tank
    2. Fish species you want in your aquarium.

    6. Overfeeding In Enthusiasm

    You might be tempted to feed your fish more and more as you learn how to keep a freshwater fish. 

    The majority of fish species will consume everything that is presented to them. You could keep eating indefinitely if you are not stringent about how much food should be supplied at a time.

    It’s possible that the fish won’t eat everything. The fish waste, along with waste, and uneaten food, will start accumulating towards the bottom of the tank. And if not removed, it taints or pollutes the tank water soon, which results in sick fish. 

    Additionally, the fish will have a bloated tummy from overfeeding. They lack a bodily system that would allow them to detect fullness. They will therefore continue to eat, fall ill, and pass away.

    Algae blooms are another issue related to overfeeding. A nitrogen-rich meal will make the tank greener. The tank will still appear unkempt and unattractive even if you have algae eaters. As a result of having more food, such as algae and uneaten fish flakes, snail populations may also increase.

    Even though the bacterial colonies and microbes in the tank will work on the uneaten food particles, if circumstances are out of your control, the water in the tank will become toxic and harm the fish.

    7. Poor Water Filtration And Equipment Failure

    In an aquarium, dilution is the best defense against contamination. 

    Simply said, that means you must discard some soiled water and replace it with clean water. By doing this, you improve the beneficial bacteria colony that is helpful to fish while also diluting garbage and dangerous toxins.

    Make sure you don’t remove a lot of the old water in this phase because doing so will also get rid of the beneficial bacteria.

    A monthly change of about 30% for aquariums with plants and 20% for aquariums without plants will produce good results. You can modify your water change amount and schedule based on your nutrient levels.

    Even if you have algae eaters in your fish aquarium, you still need to get dirty once a month to completely remove all of the algae from your fish tank. 

    Glass and decorative items are covered in algae and need to be cleaned frequently. Algae outbursts can cause a variety of issues, including deteriorating the tank’s aesthetics, poor water quality, supplying food for the growth of snails, and upsetting the equilibrium of your aquarium. 

    Although you can find several chemicals and solutions to eliminate algae, you should avoid using them.

    Use scrubbers and scrappers made specifically for fish tanks as an alternative. They contain a magnet, so you can clean them without putting your hands inside the tank.

    My Pick
    Flipper Algae Scraper

    I love the Flipper. Just put it in your aquarium and clean from the outside. You can even move it to other sides of the tank with its flipper feature. Simply Amazing!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    How to keep your tank clean?

    1. Feed your fish only once or twice daily, depending on their nutritional requirement. Always feed them enough food that they can complete it in two minutes. Some fish actually do better fasting one day of the week to clear their digestive systems
    2. Clean the fish waste produced and food waste by occasionally siphoning the gravel in your fish tanks
    3. Regularly inspect and clean the aquarium’s filtration system. On the filter media, leftover food will accumulate and degrade the filter’s performance
    4. Adding fish that are bottom feeders is a good option for keeping a community tank clean

    8. Not Keeping Up With Maintenance

    This is a common reason why fish die. In most cases, ammonia and nitrites begin to accumulate in the aquarium water, resulting in ammonia poisoning. 

    The introduction of too many fish into the aquarium at once may be the cause of the abrupt rise in the levels of harmful substances.

    Large-scale fish introductions will quickly degrade the habitat, and many fish species won’t be able to adapt if you don’t set up a reliable maintenance cycle for cleaning the aquarium.

    Carbon dioxide (CO2) and oxygen (O2) cooperate in fish aquariums. The amount of carbon dioxide in the tank’s water drops when oxygen levels rise and vice versa. This is a routine procedure. 

    Due to the activities occurring in your fish tanks during the night, oxygen levels are lowest around sunrise.

    The amount of oxygen increases throughout the day as the sun comes up, reaching its highest point at dusk. The carbon dioxide, which is at its lowest at this time of day, begins to climb after sunset and peaks soon before daybreak.

    It’s crucial to prevent carbon dioxide peaks brought on by green algae blooms from causing your pond fish to perish. The most effective method for doing this is to utilize a UV clarifier.

    How does CO2 enter your tank?

    Aquatic life, including fish, snails, algae, and aquatic plants, create carbon dioxide through respiration (breathing). Additionally, it is created by decomposing organic debris on the pond floor, such as leaves, uneaten fish food, and algae blooms.

    9. Changing The Aquarium Water Rapidly

    The aquarium’s water has to be changed periodically. The full supply of water shouldn’t be replaced all at once, though. Partial water changes are generally best. 

    Before adding the water to the tank, it should be treated. You may replenish the water in the tank by taking some out. Nitrites levels will rise, and your fish won’t be able to handle it if you’re completely changing the water or if you add fresh water without first treating it.

    10 . Filling The Fish tank With Tap Water Directly 

    Chlorine or chloramines are frequently present in the water you receive at home. The chlorine that has been dissolved in the water will be released after being set aside for a day, making the water cleaner. For the purpose of removing chloramines from the water, you must purchase specific chemicals. 

    If you don’t take these safety measures, the fish will be harmed by the newly added water. I had the unfortunate experience of having a friend of mine kill her Betta Fish because she forgot to treat the tap water during a water change. Don’t make that error!

    11. Old Age

    The most common reason for the death of most fish is old age. Let’s be honest. Like us, fish are living creatures that will die someday in one way or another.

    Especially if your fish is aged and has a history of ownership, it may have lived its life to the fullest, and hence your fish died.

    Aging is inevitable regardless of how well you take care of your fish. You cannot escape becoming older. 

    How long your fish will live totally relies on its breed. A healthy fish may live for ten years, whereas four years for bettas is considered ancient. Similarly, an unhealthy fish will not even survive a day. 

    12. Rough Handling

    Can you picture being outside when all of a sudden you are kidnapped and placed in a cramped space? 

    Sounds exhausting, doesn’t it? 

    If your fish was wild-caught, it traveled halfway across the world and now finds itself in a little tank at your neighborhood fish shop, which is a significant change. 

    The fish you purchase can already be anxious from their lengthy travel. The final leg from the fish store to your house can also be deadly. And so, your fish die of stress and improper handling.

    FAQs

    How Do I Stop My Fish From Dying?

    Check the nitrate and ammonium levels in a new tank on a regular basis, and change the water as necessary to lower the levels to a safe level for fish.ย 

    Rapid water changes: In a well-maintained tank with resident fish, plants, and bacteria, the water chemistry is carefully balanced.

    Should I Change The Water After They Have Died?

    Yes, you definitely should. No matter what caused your pet fish to die, you should always replace some of the water in the aquarium right after your fish died. Large volumes of ammonia will be released into the water by a rotting fish, and it is super harmful to other healthy fish in your fish tank.

    Why Do They Die So Easily?

    Fish can go into shock by sudden water changes and changes in water temperature, pH, or salinity, which quickly results in fish deaths.ย This is why it’s important to quarantine any new fish you bring home in a quarantine tank before putting them in your aquarium.

    The temperature of the water in the bag and the water in your tank may vary significantly.

    Why Are They Dying In My New Aquarium?

    Because they are suffering from new tank syndrome. A new tank syndrome is a condition many fish keepers have to deal with when they newly set up the tank and don’t cycle it before adding fish into it.

    Heavy quantities of nitrates and ammonium in the water can be lethal until a tank develops the proper water chemistry to sustain healthy fish. This condition is known as “new tank syndrome.” Fish may unexpectedly die until the natural microorganisms in the wYater are able to balance out these toxins.

    Can You Save Them From Dying?

    Yes, you can. With simple water changes and adjustments, the majority of dead fish may be quickly recovered.ย 

    You must maintain water quality if you want to keep your fish alive and in good health. Most pet retailers sell water testing kits for fish tanks. You may use these tests to find any water issues, such as excessive ammonia levels or ammonia poisoning.

    Why Are My Fishes Are Dying Suddenly?

    There are a number of factors that contribute to the sudden fish deaths in your aquarium. However, a few known reasons are:

    1. Poor water quality
    2. Frequent water changes
    3. New tank syndrome
    4. No tank maintenance
    5. Poor water filtration and equipment failure

    Final Thoughts

    Like all pets, your fish has to go through the process of aging and eventually dying. However, sometimes, death comes too soon without any evident reason. And so, to help you figure out the reasons your fish die, I’ve written everything I know about fish deaths from my fish-keeping experience. 

    Just make sure to provide your fish with pristine water quality and water parameters, and you’ll have no problem raising your adorable finned pets again.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • What Is The Cheapest Pet Fish? (10 Great Choices)

    What Is The Cheapest Pet Fish? (10 Great Choices)

    Are you looking for an affordable pet fish to add to your aquarium? Getting started in the aquarium hobby doesn’t have to cost a small fortune, so in this article, I’ll be covering 10 cheapest pet fish that you can keep without breaking the bank.

    Let’s dive right in!

    Key Takeaways

    • Inexpensive fish are ideal for beginners and young fish keepers.
    • Avoid sick fish that might not survive. Only buy from well-maintained pet stores and trusted online retailers.
    • Most fish need to be kept in schools. Remember to factor this into your budget.
    • When it comes to equipment, avoid low-quality products. It is better to buy smart and avoid unnecessary items.

    Cheap Vs Expensive Fish – What’s the Difference?

    Have you ever wondered why some fish cost more than others? There are a few good reasons for the different price tags, and they can also tell you something about the fish before you buy them. We have a video above from our YouTube Channel that helps illustrate and our blog post goes into more detail. Follow along with both to get the full detail.

    Expensive fish tend to be rare and difficult to breed. Often they have to be caught in the wild, which certainly adds to the price when you factor in transport and other costs. Rare and expensive fish can also be difficult to care for.

    Cheap fish are generally simple to breed and easy to care for, so they tend to be the most readily available.

    The most common and well-known fish are popular for a reason, of course. They may not provide much of a challenge to experienced aquarists, but they make wonderful pets and great display animals in home aquariums.

    Cheapest Pet Fish – 10 Great Options

    Are you ready to learn about ten great fish breeds that won’t cost a fortune? These freshwater fish are great for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will also appreciate their great looks and fascinating behaviors.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Guppy

    • Scientific name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 10 gallons +
    • Fish size: 1 – 2.5 inches
    • Minimum school size: Trio
    • Temperature: 63 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Guppies are the ultimate cheap fish, often going for just a few dollars. These fish are so affordable because they are super easy to breed. However, there are loads of fancy guppy breeds out there and some of them can be surprisingly pricey.

    Pick up a trio of standard guppies if you want a group of colorful and hardy fish that are easy to keep and care for. Guppies thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons because of their small size.

    2. Common Goldfish

    What Does A Comet Goldfish Look Like
    • Scientific name: Carassius auratus
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 30 gallons +
    • Fish size: 6 inches
    • School size: 1 +
    • Temperature: 68 – 74ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.2
    • Community tank suitability: Possible. Eats Plants

    The common goldfish is another classic aquarium fish that can be bought for really low prices. These beautiful fish come in loads of different breeds, but commons, comets, and fantails tend to be the cheapest options.

    Goldfish are awesome pet fish and they were first bred in ponds in ancient China. However, goldfish are more than just pond fish. They thrive in home aquariums with good filtration. These fish can grow to over 6 inches though, so steer clear of bowls and small tanks.

    One of the benefits of keeping these cool water fish is that they don’t need a heater in most homes. This can save your electricity bill a little in the long run.

    3. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific name: Danio rerio
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons +
    • Fish size: 1.75 inches
    • School size: 8 +
    • Temperature: 64 – 74ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Zebra danios are some of the cheapest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. That doesn’t mean they aren’t great pets, of course! These active little fish bring any community freshwater aquarium to life with their speed and grace.

    Zebra danios are really hardy, too, so they’re the perfect choice for beginners or young fishkeepers just starting out. You’ll need to pick up a school of at least 8 of these low-maintenance fish to see them at their best.

    4. Molly

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Poecilia sphenops / P. latipinna
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 30 gallons
    • Fish size: 4 – 6 inches
    • School size: 4 +
    • Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Molly fish are another inexpensive tropical fish that offer great value for money. These hardy livebearers are so versatile that you can even keep them as saltwater fish with other marine fish species.

    Mollies can reach about 6 inches, so they need a larger aquarium of at least thirty gallons. These fish eat a variety of food sources, but they also love to feed on algae which means they can help to keep your tank clean.

    5. Platy

    Golden Wagtail Platy
    • Scientific name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 10 gallons +
    • Fish size: 2 inches
    • School size: 5 +
    • Temperature: 70 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Platy fish are low-cost live-bearing fish from the same family as guppies and molly fish. They come in many varieties, including yellow, blue, and multicolored types.

    Platies are small fish, so you can keep them in a small fish tank with very inexpensive equipment. They also get along perfectly with many freshwater species, including many of the other fish on this list!

    6. Betta

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

    Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online
    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 5 gallons +
    • Fish size: 2.5 inches
    • School size: 1
    • Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 8
    • Community tank suitability: Possible

    Betta fish are the first choice for fish keepers who want a single, low-maintenance fish that doesn’t need a large aquarium. These freshwater species come in all the vibrant colors of the rainbow, from yellow to blue and everything in between! Not only can they be cheap but also very expensive, depending on the species you want.

    Betta fish also come in many different fin shapes like half moon, crown tail, and elephant ear. The female fish are a little smaller and less colorful, but they make great pets too.

    Sadly, betta fish are often sold in cups and kept in small bowls and other tiny containers. These fish will not survive for long in such an unhealthy environment; set your pet up with a 5-gallon (or larger) aquarium with a heater and a filtration system.

    7. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons +
    • Fish size: 1.5 inches
    • School size: 6 +
    • Temperature: 70 – 77ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Neon tetras are amazing fish for any home aquarium. A neon tetra school will usually cost just a couple of dollars but the movement and color they can provide in your aquarium are priceless!

    These tiny fish get along with many other peaceful freshwater fish too, so you can keep them with other inexpensive schooling fish.

    8. Swordtails

    • Scientific name: Xiphophorus helleri
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 20 gallons +
    • Fish size: 4 inches
    • School size: 5 +
    • Temperature: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.3
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Swordtails are Central American livebearers (video source) that thrive in a variety of water conditions. Only the males develop long, pointed tails, but the females have the same vibrant colors.

    Swordtails can be kept with other inexpensive livebearers like guppies and mollies or kept in a school in their own space. They are some of the easiest fish in the hobby, so they are great for beginners too!

    9. Corydoras Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific name: Corydoras sp.
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15- 30 gallons (Depending on species)
    • Fish size: 1 – 4 inches
    • School size: 5 +
    • Temperature: 74 – 80 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Cory catfish are great fish for the bottom levels of a tropical tank. These inexpensive fish hang out in schools of their own species. They usually swim around on the bottom and even dig for food in the substrate which is fascinating to watch!

    These peaceful freshwater fish come in a huge range of breeds and species, but you can’t go wrong with the cheaper options like albino and peppered corydoras catfish.

    10. Scissortail Rasbora

    • Scientific name: Rasbora trilineata
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Tank size: 30 gallons +
    • Fish size: 6 inches
    • School size: 6 +
    • Temperature: 73 – 77ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 6.5
    • Community tank suitability: High

    Scissortail rasboras are speedy freshwater fish that can turn a quiet fish tank into an exciting underwater world. These schooling fish are affordable, and they eat most things, including regular flake food.

    Scissortail rasboras get their name from their bold, strongly forked tail fins. They are also known as the three-striped rasbora because of the distinctive markings on their silver gold body. These fish need a little more room because of their adult size and activity level.

    Getting Started On a Budget

    There are a million awesome gadgets, tools, and other equipment that you can buy, and everything has its place. The truth is that you can get started with a minimum of equipment, but there are a few things that you have to have.

    Let’s jump in and learn what you’ll need!

    Tank & Equipment

    The first thing you’re going to need is an aquarium. Smaller standard tanks cost less than larger tanks but remember to match your aquarium to the type of fish that you plan on keeping.

    Make sure your aquarium has a hood. Fish are strong jumpers and can easily escape an open tank if they want to. This isn’t just heartbreaking; it’s expensive too.

    You will need aquarium lighting, a filter, and a heater too. Match your equipment to your tank size. Some species, like goldfish, don’t always need a heater, which can save you money on the initial cost and your electricity bill. However, most other fish will not survive for long in a tank with a cold water temperature.

    You’ll also want some aquarium gravel and decorations to complete the setup. Shop around to find the best deals. It’s best to stick to aquarium-safe decorations designed for fish tanks.

    Testing & Maintenance

    Setting up a cost-effective tank and buying cheap fish is a great way to stay within your budget, but don’t forget to factor in your testing and maintenance equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:

    • A water test kit that can measure water parameters like nitrates and pH.
    • An algae scraper. You can use a razor blade, an old credit card, or a clean toothbrush too.
    • A gravel vacuum is necessary to maintain your water quality. You could make your own, but this important tool is affordable anyway.
    • Water conditioner. This is important for treating tap water and making it safe for your pets.

    Food & Medicine

    Fish food can be pretty expensive, although you’ll be surprised at how long it lasts. Most cheap fish have pretty unspecialized diets, so you can feed them tropical fish flakes or pellets that suit your fish size.

    Pick up some frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp too. These supplementary foods are cheap and last for ages if kept frozen and fed sparingly.

    Like all pets, live fish can get sick from time to time. It’s a good idea to be prepared if you live a long way from a pet store.

    Aquarium salt is a great cure for many common fish illnesses, but there are also great disease-specific medicines that you might want to consider.

    Other Tips

    • Buy used. There’s always a risk when buying used goods, but it can be a great way to cut costs when setting up a low-budget fish tank. However, try to test and inspect used items before paying.
    • Look out for sales. If you’re not in a hurry, shop around and wait for the best prices to come up when items go on sale.
    • Choose energy-efficient hardware. Check the box or label for the energy consumption figures before buying electronics.
    • Consider spending a little more on quality, long-lasting products that you won’t need to replace too often. Equipment with a good warranty can save you plenty of dollars in the long run.

    FAQs

    What Is The Easiest Type To Take Care Of?

    Livebearers like guppies, mollies, and platys are some of the easiest fish to maintain. These colorful fish thrive on a diet of fish flakes, are happy in a variety of water conditions, and tend to be very healthy.

    What Is The Least Expensive To Buy As A Pet?

    Pricing will vary depending on where you buy your fish, but Zebra Danios are often the cheapest fish in the store. These hardy fish make great pets for beginners, and they get along perfectly with many other freshwater fish species. Zebra danios are a great value!

    How Expensive Are They?

    Aquarium fish prices vary hugely depending on species, size, and breeds. For example, great fish, like neon tetras, betta fish, and goldfish, usually cost just a few dollars. However, some Arowana fish and other rare fish breeds can even reach six figures.

    Final Thoughts

    Keeping fish is a great hobby for everyone. You don’t have to spend your life savings to buy some amazing fish and set them up in a great aquarium. Choose from the fish listed in this post, and keep my cash-saving tips in mind when you’re ready to get started!

    What is your favorite low-cost aquarium fish? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Low Maintenance Fish – 15 Great Choices (With Pictures)

    Low Maintenance Fish – 15 Great Choices (With Pictures)

    Would you like to keep pet fish but don’t have much time to take care of them? All fish need regular care to stay healthy, but some fish are just so much easier to keep than others. In this post, we’ll highlight 15 amazing low-maintenance fish that you can keep. We’ll also cover the basics of fish care and tank maintenance so you know what to expect.

    Let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose low-maintenance fish if you’re just starting out in the aquarium hobby.
    • Low-maintenance fish are also great for busy fishkeepers who don’t have enough time for high-maintenance aquariums.
    • All fish and aquariums need care and maintenance to stay healthy and beautiful. Set aside a few minutes each day to feed and evaluate your fish, and schedule one hour per week for tank maintenance.
    • Small, heavily stocked aquariums require more frequent maintenance than larger, lightly stocked tanks.

    What Are Low-Maintenance Fish?

    Low-maintenance fish are species that are easy to care for, and don’t need much of your attention each day to stay healthy. So what should you look for when choosing low-maintenance fish? We have a list below of our criteria and a video from our YouTube channel to share with you. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

    • Hardiness

    Hardy fish are the best choice because they can often go two weeks or more between water changes. Hardy fish are also more likely to survive if you’re a few days late on tank maintenance.

    The amount of maintenance required depends just as much on your tank setup, feeding routine, and filtration, of course, but we’ll dive a little deeper into that later in the article.

    • Diet

    Low-maintenance fish are easy to feed. Choose fish that can be fed on easily available foods like tropical flake food, although it’s always a good idea to supplement their diet with convenient frozen foods like brine shrimp. Avoid fish with specialized, live-food diets.

    • Temperament

    Peaceful fish are the best choice for a low-maintenance community tank, especially if you don’t have much time to monitor your fish for aggression. More semi-aggressive fish species like the betta fish are great if you want just one pet fish to take care of.

    15 Of The Top Low Maintenance Fish

    Now that you know what to look for, here are 15 amazing low-maintenance species that you can keep!

    1. Betta Fish

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    Betta Fish

    Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

    Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6.5 – 8
    • Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 1 per tank

    Betta fish are one of the most popular pet fish in the world and they make a great low-maintenance pet for beginners! These awesome tropical fish are hardy and easy to feed, and they can thrive in a tank of just 5 gallons.

    Betta fish make wonderful aquarium pets but they have one downside. These aggressive fish are also known as Siamese fighting fish because they will attack each other if kept together.

    Experienced aquarists can keep a group of females together in a large tank, but keeping just a single male is a much easier option.

    2. Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 2.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America & Caribbean Islands
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 63 – 82ยฐF
    • School Size: 3+

    Guppies are perfect low-maintenance fish for beginners and busy fish keepers. These fish are peaceful, hardy, and completely unfussy about their diet.

    If you keep male and female guppies together they are going to breed sooner or later. The females produce live young, so breeding these fish and caring for the baby fry is super easy!

    Males are usually very brightly colored fish, and they can be kept together in the same aquarium without females if you prefer them not to breed.

    3. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 15+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: India
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Temperature: 64 – 74ยฐF
    • School Size: 8+

    Zebra danios are great low-maintenance pets. They are a super hardy species, and that makes them excellent beginner-friendly fish.

    Zebrafish are not the most colorful tropical fish in the hobby, but their bold stripes and high activity level means they bring life to any freshwater fish tank. They are at home in cooler conditions, however, so many aquarists keep them in room temperature water.

    Zebra danios are true schooling fish, so they will be happiest in a nice big group. Their busy nature also means they prefer a slightly bigger tank than other fish of their size.

    4. Platy

    Sunset Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Central & South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 70 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 5+

    Platy fish are small, brightly colored, and super easy fish to take care of. These fish are related to guppies, and you can see the resemblance. Platies are livebearers, so they are very easy to breed.

    It sounds kind of gruesome but the adult fish will eat the fry in most cases, so you don’t have to worry about them breeding out of control. Another option is to keep a group of females only. They’re just as pretty as the males but tend to be more peaceful fish.

    Platies are omnivorous fish that are easy to feed. They are also very affordable and easy to find at most pet stores so they’re ideal for beginners.

    5. White Cloud Minnow

    White Cloud Minnow in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: China
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Temperature: 64 – 72ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    White cloud mountain minnows are beautiful low-maintenance cold water fish for beginners. These fish live in mountain streams with a low water temperature in their natural habitat, so you can usually keep them without needing an aquarium heater.

    The peaceful white cloud minnow grows to less than two inches, so you can keep a small school in a tank of just ten to fifteen gallons without any problems.

    6. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Tank Size: 15 + gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 70 – 77ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Neon tetras are great low-maintenance fish for beginners. These colorful freshwater fish are perfect for a community tank but are also a great choice for a single-species setup.

    Keep a school of 6 or more neon tetras in a 15-gallon planted aquarium for a beautiful display tank that needs little maintenance.

    7. Cherry Barb

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 74 – 79ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Cherry barbs are good beginner fish that can thrive in community tanks or without other fish species. These peaceful creatures need the company of their own species to feel safe and confident, so keep a school of at least 6 individuals.

    Feed your cherry barbs once per day, test their water once a week, perform a water change twice a month, and you should have years of happy fishkeeping!

    8. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific Name: Pangio semicincta
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 3.5 – 4 inches
    • Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 70 – 79ยฐF
    • School Size: 3 +

    Kuhli loaches are the ultimate low-maintenance fish. In fact, you might even forget that you have them!

    These great-looking bottom feeders are pretty shy, and they usually come out at night. They love to search for leftover food from your other fish, so they really help to keep their tank clean.

    Kuhli loaches should be fed a diet of bottom-feeder food to ensure that they’re getting the right nutrition, however. Drop a sinking pellet or two in each night before the lights go out and watch these adorable fish start searching!

    9. Endler’s Livebearer

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 1.8 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 75 – 86ยฐF
    • School Size: 3+

    Endler’s livebearers are very similar to their larger relative, the guppy. These equally colorful fish are great for small aquariums of ten gallons or more, and they get along perfectly with many other peaceful small fish.

    Endler’s livebearers will interbreed with guppies, so avoid keeping the two species together if you plan on growing out any fry.

    10. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Rasbora heteromorpha
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 6.5
    • Temperature: 72 – 77ยฐF
    • School Size: 8+

    The harlequin rasbora is a beautiful fish with vibrant colors and bold, characteristic markings. These schooling fish can be kept with a variety of different tank mates, and they are perfect for a small planted fish tank.

    Their natural schooling behavior is one of the real drawcards for the species, so go ahead and pick up a school of at least 8 harlequins to appreciate all they have to offer.

    11. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 5+

    There are loads of different fish species in the corydoras group, and they all make awesome tank mates for community fish tanks.

    These chunky catfish are great fun to watch as they cruise around the bottom of the aquarium, and their low-maintenance needs make them a good choice for beginners.

    12. Black Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 15+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 5.5 – 7
    • Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Black neon tetras are another beginner-friendly fish that are perfect for a peaceful community tank. These schooling fish hang out in the middle to top layers of the aquarium, so your tank will always look busy if you keep them in a nice big group.

    Black neon tetras are small fish, and they will thrive in a tank of just 15 gallons or more. These hardy fish can live for up to 5 years with good care. They are perfect tank mates for other peaceful fish like corydoras catfish and kuhli loaches.

    13. Molly

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna/ P. sphenops
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South & North America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • School Size: 4+

    Molly fish are a great choice for fish keepers who want something a little larger. These American livebearers come in a variety of awesome colors and fin shapes, and they’re very easy to breed too.

    These low-maintenance fish will thrive on a regular diet of fish flakes, but the odd serving of brine shrimp will ensure healthy fish.

    Molly fish make a great choice for community tanks too. These peaceful fish are known algae-eaters, and they get along really well with other fish species! They also can be acclimated to live in saltwater tanks!

    14. Black Skirt Tetra

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2.4 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 68 – 78ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    The black skirt tetra is an active but peaceful species. These fish might not have the same bright colors as something like a neon tetra, but they make up for it with a really cool body shape and bold markings.

    These hardy fish are great for community tanks. They are social creatures, so keep them in a school of 6 or more in a fish tank with plenty of swimming space.

    15. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: India & Nepal
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 1+

    Honey gouramis are beautiful tropical fish that can be kept in a community aquarium with a variety of tank mates. You can also keep a single fish for a really easy and low-maintenance fish tank.

    These fascinating fish breathe atmospheric air so they should always have access to the water’s surface. This is rarely a problem unless you grow floating aquatic plants, however.

    Care

    Successful fishkeeping starts with the right tank and equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:

    Tank Setup

    • A big enough aquarium with a hood. It is best to choose an aquarium at least one size above the minimum recommended tank size of your fish.
    • An aquarium filter rated for your tank size or larger.
    • A heater. This is essential to keep the water temperature high enough for tropical fish. However, a heater is not always necessary for cold-water fish like white cloud minnows and fancy goldfish.
    • Aquarium lighting is set on a timer for 6 to 8 hours each day.
    • Substrate like aquarium gravel or sand.
    • Decorations like driftwood, rocks, and aquarium-safe decorations.

    Feeding

    Modern fish foods offer convenient nutritionally complete meals for your fish. Providing the right amount of food can take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it you can complete this task in just a few seconds.

    However, I recommend watching your fish for a minute or two during each feeding. That way you’ll be able to see if each fish is getting enough food, or if any timid fish are going hungry.

    Your fish should be able to finish the food in 2 minutes or so. Remember, uneaten food equals poor water quality, and that means more maintenance for you.

    Busy fishkeepers can feed their fish just once a day. Choose a time that suits you, like just before you leave for work or school, and make it part of your daily routine. If you need to leave home for more than a day at a time, you can even purchase an automatic fish feeder.

    These devices release a preset amount of food at a preset time. Just make sure you test it before leaving town for the weekend.

    Tank Maintenance

    Even the easiest aquarium fish need some regular maintenance So what do you need to do to keep your tank clean and your fish healthy?

    • Run High-Quality Filtration

    Good quality filtration is essential for maintaining high water quality. Your aquarium filter will remove physical waste particles from the water to make your tank look cleaner, but that’s not all.

    Tiny bacteria live inside the filtration media, and they are responsible for converting harmful chemicals like nitrite and ammonia into nitrates.

    • Monitor Your Water Quality

    Test your water regularly during the aquarium cycling process to monitor the levels of nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia in the water.

    These nitrogen compounds build up from decaying food and fish waste. The water in a new aquarium is safe for fish when it reads zero parts ammonia and nitrate.

    The results of your tests will help you work out a regular maintenance schedule. Remember, the more fish you have in your tank, the more waste they will produce, and the more maintenance you will need to perform.

    • Regular Water Changes

    You will also need to clean out your tank regularly to lower your nitrate levels. The Nitrates build up over time and the way to lower the levels is to remove a percentage of the old water and replace it with fresh new water.

    Use a gravel vacuum or python system to suck up water from the bottom of the tank. That way you’ll be sucking up the fish waste and other organic matter too.

    Python Cleaner

    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

    Buy On Amazon

    Replace the water you took out with fresh, dechlorinated water that is the same temperature as your aquarium water.

    Where To Buy

    All the recommended fish in this post are easy to pick up from most local fish stores. Alternatively, check out some of our recommended online retailers for great fish at great prices! We have a great partnership with Flip Aquatics. They sell some of the beginner fish listed here. You can use promo code ASDFLIPPOMO for a discount at checkout!

    FAQs

    Which Are The Easiest To Take Care Of?

    Guppies are some of the easiest fish to take care of. They are hardy, peaceful, and adaptable, and they thrive on a simple diet of fish flakes.

    What Is The Most Hardy Pet Fish?

    Zebra danios are some of the hardiest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. These adaptable fish can survive most beginner mistakes, but they still deserve the best care they can get.

    Which One Is The Most Low-Maintenance?

    The Betta fish is probably the most low-maintenance fish. A single betta fish in a 5-10 gallon tank with good filtration requires relatively little maintenance if fed correctly.

    Are They A Good Beginner Pet?

    Many fish make great beginner pets if researched correctly. Fish like bettas, guppies, and danios are very beginner friendly and affordable, and they need little space to thrive. Some fish are very difficult to care for, so choosing the correct species and equipment is very important.

    Final Thoughts

    Keeping a beautiful freshwater aquarium full of healthy colorful fish doesn’t require more than a few minutes each day and an hour on the weekend a few times each month.

    Choosing the right fish species can make all the difference, however, and the low-maintenance fish species in this post are just what you are looking for. Getting set up with a big enough tank, good quality filtration, and avoiding overstocking your freshwater aquarium are the keys to success!

    What is your favorite low-maintenance tropical fish? Comment down below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Fish That Eats Poop – Do Fish Eat It?

    Fish That Eats Poop – Do Fish Eat It?

    As a fish keeper, you may be wondering if there are any fish that eats poop. This is a valid question, as it is important to know what goes into your fish’s diet. In this blog post, we will explore the topic of fish feces and whether or not they consume it. We will also look at some of the benefits and implications of this behavior. So, keep reading to learn more!

    Key Takeaways

    • No freshwater fish actually eats poop
    • Freshwater plants are great for breaking down fish poop
    • Good filtration will help break down fish poop
    • Siphoning out large poop is recommended to keep toxic ammonia and nitrites down

    Introduction To Poop-Eating Fish

    Freshwater aquariums are dirty. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of different organisms and microbes that work together to make these contained ecosystems operate. Believe it or not, fish poop is essential for making these systems run efficiently and safely.

    But what happens if you have too much fish poop entering the system? This can be due to overstocking, poor maintenance, inadequate filtration, or overfeeding.

    Overloading The Nitrogen Cycle

    As with anything, too much fish poop can overload the system with nutrients. When first starting a fish tank, ammonia must be added to the aquarium to initiate the nitrogen cycle. Over time, different microorganisms convert this ammonia into nitrite and, eventually, nitrate. This population of beneficial bacteria directly correlates to the amount of fish waste available and the subsequent levels of ammonia produced in the aquarium.

    Simply put, more fish waste equals more ammonia and bacteria.

    However, beneficial bacteria need to reproduce in order to compensate for higher ammonia levels, which takes time. A sudden or large raise in the level of ammonia in the system can leave toxic chemicals in the water column. This directly exposes fish, invertebrates, and live plants to potential ammonia poisoning, which can quickly become lethal.

    The only way to prevent ammonia from overwhelming the nitrogen cycle is by removing fish poop and other wastes in the aquarium before they have the chance to break down.

    Are There Any Fish That Eats Poop?

    The easiest way to remove fish poop from the aquarium would be to have another fish that does the work for you.

    Sadly, there is no aquarium fish that will eat the poop of another fish. And do not let anyone tell you differently! Less-informed pet store associates are very likely to try to sell you bottom feeders with the ability to clean up after other fish, but such a species does not exist.

    Many freshwater fish and invertebrate species are sold as members of the clean up crew. While it is easy to assume that a ‘clean up’ crew member, especially a bottom dweller, will clean up fish poop given its assigned name, this isn’t true. Instead, these fish eat algae and other organic matter that makes its way into our systems, like decayed plant debris and leftover food. There is no benefit to a food source that has already been processed by another animal.

    Fish that are commonly advertised as clean up crew members include:

    From this list, Otocinclus eat algae. Corydoras, plecos, and loaches eat some detritus and natural algae but prefer fresh algae wafers and meaty foods instead. Freshwater sharks, like the rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), might look like it eats fish waste and detritus off the substrate, but they prefer a fresh source of food instead.

    Just because a fish has a flat stomach and barbels does not mean that it is a good member of the clean up crew!

    Do Snails Eat Fish Poop?

    Surely there is a species of snail that eats fish poop, right? No, freshwater snails do not eat fish poop either. Like fish, snails enjoy eating algae and other decaying organics. Some snails even like to eat live aquarium plants, though most are considered safe to keep in the planted aquarium.

    Unfortunately, shrimp do not eat fish poop either. On top of eating algae and organic waste, some shrimp might even pick and eat parasites off of fish, but they will not eat poop.

    At times, it might look like your fish or invertebrates are eating poop. In most cases, this is a case of mistaking fish poop for a piece of food and they’ll usually spit it back out immediately. But sometimes, fish might eat poop if other food isn’t available. This is a serious case of malnourishment and should be addressed immediately.

    Why Don’t They Eat Poop?

    If fish poop is abundant, then why haven’t aquarium fish evolved to eat it? At the very least, snails and other members of the clean-up crew should have learned to eat poop over the years, right?

    There is little to no benefit to eating poop. Poop is the remaining waste product of food, meaning that most of the nutritional value has been removed. Not only that, but it probably also doesn’t taste the greatest! If you’ve ever watched your fish eat, you may have seen it take a piece of food and then spit it back out. This is the fish’s way of tasting the food before it ingests it; and yes, fish definitely have preferences!

    In the wild, it can also be dangerous to ingest poop. Many fish and invertebrates carry internal parasites which are sometimes excreted through feces. If another animal ingests this poop, then it will also be infected.

    All in all, fish have evolved to avoid eating poop due to biological safety and appetite preferences.

    What Breaks It Down?

    If other animals aren’t eating the poop, then where is it going?

    As with anything that is organic, fish poop will naturally break down over time until it’s completely incorporated back into the ecosystem. Bacteria and other microbes will help eat fish poop and break down proteins that then get released as ammonia. The physical matter slowly falls apart and disintegrates over time, getting incorporated into the substrate and filter media.

    Once in the form of ammonia or ammonium, live plants and bacteria can use these nutrients to perform photosynthesis and create food.

    How To Keep Your Aquarium Clean

    An accumulation of fish poop can lead to water quality issues and give your tank a dirty appearance. Because there aren’t any fish or invertebrate species that eat fish waste, it’s up to the hobbyist to manually remove the excess fish poop.

    There are a few ways to make sure that your aquarium stays clean without having to rely on another fish to eat poop for you. This includes regular aquarium maintenance, controlling water flow, and incorporating live plants into your freshwater fish tank.

    Regular Aquarium Maintenance

    Fish are some of the easiest pets to keep, but they do require some care and attention from time to time. Once your aquarium has been set up and allowed to complete the nitrogen cycle, weekly or monthly maintenance is required to keep fish happy and healthy. How often you need to perform maintenance depends on the amount of bioload in the aquarium and how nutrients are being exported or processed.

    For the most part, beneficial bacteria are efficient at their job of converting ammonia into nitrite and nitrate. However, larger particles, like fish poop, need to be manually removed.

    One of the best ways to remove fish poop is by using an aquarium vacuum cleaner. This piece of equipment includes a plastic nozzle with long tubing and works through siphon physics. Check out the video below from Lifewithpets showing how to use a gravel vacuum.

    Simply start a siphon by placing water into the nuzzle, lifting the nuzzle upwards so that the water can drain through the tubing, and placing the nozzle back into the aquarium before the remaining draining water can empty the tubing. This will create a continuous pull of water from the fish tank into another container (so long as the container is at a lower level than the nozzle). Alternatively, hobbyists can place the nozzle in the aquarium water and suck the end of the tubing until a circuit is created. Obviously, this can lead to some water getting in your mouth and potential ingestion (perform at your own risk)!

    A regular vacuuming schedule can keep your tank clean and water parameters in check. It is not necessary to vacuum your substrate during every weekly or biweekly water change and some hobbyists choose to only do so when there are obvious accumulations of fish poop. Limiting substrate cleanings can also be beneficial when dealing with a sand substrate that can easily be kicked up and unintentionally siphoned.

    Otherwise, 15-25% weekly or biweekly water changes will keep water parameters where they need to be. Water changes are especially helpful for removing nitrate, which can’t be naturally processed in freshwater aquariums without the help of live plants.

    Water Flow

    Water flow will not remove fish poop, but can greatly help with its collection of it.

    The problem with fish poop is that it sinks to the bottom and gets stuck under rocks and other decorations. Once there, it can’t be easily reached with a gravel vacuum and it’s left to rot and contaminate the water. Adding additional water flow and circulation at all levels of the aquarium can help fish poop and other uneaten food from accumulating.

    Additional water flow can be added through increased or greater filtration, air stones, or powerheads.

    An aquarium can never have too much filtration, but it can have too much or too little water flow. For most setups, water flow should be moderate throughout both the length and height of the aquarium. There should be enough flow to keep objects from settling on the substrate and passing nutrients through live plants, but not enough to make swimming difficult for your fish.

    Filter returns and powerheads help to create constant and random movement throughout the aquarium; a larger filter or several filters may be needed to create a desired random effect. At the same time, the filter intake may be placed in an area and level for the best waste intake while air stones can be used to bring circulation to dead zones.

    Live Plants

    One of the most understated ways to keep your aquarium clean and to get rid of fish poop is to keep live plants. Many inexperienced hobbyists think live plants are demanding in regards to lighting and water parameters, but there are many species that can survive even the worst beginner’s mistakes.

    Live plants can process ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Each nutrient facilitates a different physiological process for the plant, leading to growth and propagation. Because of their constant need for nutrients, many hobbyists typically keep their planted tanks at 20 ppm nitrate. Limited nutrients can lead to stunted growth.

    While some fish keepers need to dose their aquariums with fertilizers to achieve these levels, others allow their fish to do the work for them. Fish poop is a natural and necessary addition to these systems, though too much can still lead to dangerous conditions.

    Live plants are so efficient at processing fish poop and other organic leftovers that some hobbyists use them to help cycle their aquariums. This is often called a ghost cycle as the plants uptake nutrients before they can be observed through water testing. This is quantifiable proof that live plants, in fact, help take nutrients out of the water!

    In addition to helping keep the fish tank clean, live plants also process carbon dioxide into oxygen and provide shelter and food for fish and invertebrates.

    Final Thoughts

    Sadly, there are no fish or invertebrates that eat fish poop. The only way to get rid of fish poop is by regularly cleaning the tank with a gravel vacuum, increasing and optimizing water flow, and adding live plants to help uptake excess nutrients.

    While it might look like your fish is trying to eat poop off the substrate, it may be mistaking it for food. In this case, make sure that your fish is receiving adequate food and nutritional value as it may be hungry.

  • How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead (6 Ways To Tell)

    How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead (6 Ways To Tell)

    For an aquarium tank, nothing beats variety. If you have a community tank with fish of varied colors and patterns, how about adding some aquarium snails to add more excitement?

    Aquatic snails not only look beautiful in a fish tank, but they are also great algae eaters and tank cleaners. It means they clean debris and waste matter from your fish tank which would otherwise pollute the water.

    However, there are shortcomings in keeping snails as your pet. If you’ve ever kept a snail, you would know they remain inactive for a very long timeโ€”it’s quite common in snails. But sometimes, an aquarium snail dies and you might mistake its inactivity for hibernation.

    In this article, I’m going to list 6 great ways on how to tell if a snail is dead.

    Let’s find out!

    Key Takeaways

    • The smell is the most obvious way to tell if a aquarium snail is dead in your aquarium
    • When snails die, they release a large amount of ammonia. Death of a large snail or numerous snails may require a water change
    • Old age is the most common reason for a snail’s death in an aquarium

    How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead – 6 Ways To Tell

    Here are 6 obvious signs to see if your snail is dead or just sleeping. You can check out YouTube video below. We also go into further detail in our blog post. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week.

    1. Smell Test

    The smell test gives the most authentic results. If you suspect that your snail is dead, take a sniff and you’ll know.

    That’s because dead snails produce a lot of Ammonia and decompose very quickly, leaving behind a pungent smell like rotting food. I also advise testing your tank water because there are high chances of Ammonia spike that require immediate water change after removing the dead snail.

    You can also sniff the foot of your snail if the shell doesn’t smell bad. A dead snail’s body, especially the foot will smell equally bad. However, poor water quality can also add to a stinky foot.

    If your snail is alive but has smelly feet, consider doing partial water changes.

    2. Examine The Body

    Look out the snail’s shell and body closely. When a snail dies, its body shrinks into the shell and then slowly decomposes. Look at the opening of the shell, if you cannot spot the body inside, it is most likely a dead snail. Also, when you hold the snail and it feels very light with nothing inside, the snail has died.

    Golden Apple Snail

    If the body shrinks, the snail produces a lot of ammonia shortly. Thus, immediate partial water changes and filtration is required to keep things at bay.

    3. Check The Trap Door

    This option is well suited for larger snail varieties such as Mystery snails or Apple snails. Carefully tug at the trap door of your snail. If it’s alive, you will feel resistance. But if it opens easily, the snail is dead.

    4. Transport Your Pet To A New Environment

    Another effective method to check if a snail is dead is to move it to a new environment. You can transport your snail to a smaller or larger aquarium or container with different water parameters.

    The change in water parameters and overall environment would entice curiosity in your snail and it will most likely wake up to explore its new environment.

    5. Check If They React

    Snails, almost like all living things, react to certain external stimuli. And so, you can tap the snail shell carefully to see if it reacts. Or you can also try tickling its belly to check if it retracts. If it does, there’s nothing to worry. But if it remains motionless, your snail is dead.

    6. Light Test

    You can try holding the snail in your hands and exposing it against the flashlight or light bulb. If you see no matter inside or if the body is slightly shrunken, the snail is most likely dead.

    How Long Can They Go Without Moving?

    In the wild, snails hibernate for around three years or longer without moving. However, aquarium snails sleep or remain inactive for around two weeks. The inactivity may be a result of a number of factors.

    Most snails don’t move for approx three to four days as a result of transportation. Freshly introduced Nerite snails don’t move when added to a new ecosystem.

    Why Do They Die?

    There are many reasons for a snail to be dead in your aquarium.

    1. Old age is one of the most common causes.
    2. Snails are extremely sensitive to high levels of toxins in the water, so if you neglect regular water changes in your tank and the water’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels rise, your snails and some of your fish could die.
    3. Algae and debris are not sufficient for the survival of snails. Your snails risk starvation if not fed properly.
    4. Many fish treatments contain copper, which can be fatal to plants and snails. Fish that require treatment should be put into a quarantine tank rather than your display tank since those medications include copper.
    5. Warm water is required by tropical snails. Your snails will die if the water in your aquarium is too coldโ€”below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

    What To Do With Deceased Ones?

    The soft component of a dead snail is typically damaged or melted away when it decomposes. The snail in hibernation has a membrane within and its shell will be extremely fragile. If the snail has been dead for a while, all you find are empty shells.

    You must remove any dead snails from the tank or the vicinity right away, whether they are in the water or on land, especially if there are other snails or marine animals nearby (in the case of an aquarium).

    To avoid contaminating the water or sand for the other snails or animals, make it a point to completely change the water or sand.

    The dead snail body may occasionally be consumed by the fish in your tank before it turns poisonous to them. If not, quickly remove the dead snail before it contaminates the water.

    I advise avoiding removing the shells from the water because they don’t deteriorate and add beauty to your aquarium. In addition to being useful as raw materials for numerous goods, snail shells are also quite aesthetically beautiful and can be utilized for clothing and home dรฉcor.

    How To Distinguish Between A Dead Snail And A Hibernating One?

    Nerite and mystery snails frequently go dormant for days at a time in aquariums. By examining its shell, you can tell a hibernating snail from a dead one. The shell of a dead snail is discolored, weightless, and lifeless.

    Even while the snail is hibernating, its slime keeps it glued to objects. However, dead snails don’t have clingy slime, thus they float away from any surface more frequently. In any case, don’t be too quick to discard your snail. It needs time to wake up.

    Pro tip: A snail in hibernation will stay put, won't emerge from its shell, and will instead stay affixed to a surface. A dead snail, on the other hand, is unable to adhere to any surface and will remain stationary.

    Why Do They Float?

    Many novice snail keepers often ask “Is my floating snail dead?” Today I’m going to answer this question.

    Many aquarium snail species floatโ€”including mystery snails that occasionally float (video source). So, Good news! Your snail might not actually be dead. Because they can store air inside their shells, snails have enough buoyancy to float.

    Some snail species in nature purposefully float on the water’s surface so that they can be carried along by the current and move more quickly, perhaps in quest of better eating grounds.

    In captivity, hunger is a frequent reason why snails float at the water’s surface, often upside down as they attempt to catch dangling food pieces.

    Snails cannot thrive on algae alone, contrary to popular belief. To help keep the snails’ shells in good condition, be sure to add vegetables and other high-calcium foods to their diet.

    Lift a floating snail carefully out of the water and give the shell a sniff if you’re unsure whether it’s alive or dead. If it doesn’t stink keep your snail floating.

    How To Improve The Health Of Your Tank Pet?

    Snails need clean, filtered, oxygenated water to stay healthy, just like your fish do.

    Therefore, to maintain a clean environment, be sure to properly maintain your aquarium filtration system, perform weekly partial water changes, and completely vacuum the substrate.

    Snails can handle water temperatures between 65ยฐ and 82ยฐ Fahrenheit and prefer a pH level close to 7.0.

    Despite their small size, each of your snails needs at least 2.5 liters of water. That makes sure the mollusks won’t go hungry and gives each snail plenty of room to forage.

    Leave a six-inch area below the tank lid or cover slide so that the snails can deposit eggs if you wish them to reproduce. Examine the aquarium lid and seal any openings that the snails might use to elude capture.

    Aquatic snails may live for a short time without water, but eventually, they will become dehydrated and pass away.

    Choose Tank mates Carefully

    If you raise an aquarium snail, be selective with your tankmates. Avoid fish including puffers, cichlids, goldfish, and some catfish that feed on snails.

    FAQs

    How Do I Know If They Have Died?

    First of all, if your snail is not moving. You can try doing the following things to see if it’s dead.

    1) Sniff the snail’s shell or feet to see if any foul smell is coming. If yes, your snail is dead. If no, it’s alive.

    2) Examine the snail’s body properly. If it’s shrunken, your snail is no more. If not, it’s still there.

    3) For larger snails, you can tug at the trapdoor to see any reaction or you can even transport your snail to a new fish tank or aquarium with different water parameters to see if it reacts.

    4) Check out the snail shell with the help of flashlight to see if there’s any matter inside the shell.

    What Do They Look Like When They Pass Away?

    A dead snail snail is the one with empty shells. When the snail is found hanging out of their shells or their shells are crushed, they are most likely dead. The dead snail are no longer slimy and have a different color that is darker than the original.

    How Do You Know They Are Alive?

    1) If the snail does not stink
    2) If it reacts on external stimuli
    3) Here’s a little test to check if your snail is alive:

    Lift your snail out of the water and very carefully bring the back foot toward you, if the snail retracts, it’s alive.

    Why Are They Not Moving?

    A snail typically won’t move or emerge from its shell because of the low temperature. Nerite snails and mystery snails prefer temperatures of 76 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit. They must hibernate because of the drop in temperature.

    However, your snail will die below 23ยฐF. If it’s too cold, put the snail in warm water to help it emerge from its shell and begin moving.

    Is My Pet Dead Or Sleeping?

    Your snail is probably sleeping, hibernating, or relaxing if it isn’t moving and is still clinging to the aquarium glass or decorations.

    Why Did My Nerite Ones Die?

    There are four possible reasons for your Nerite snails to die.

    1. Nerite snails are extremely sensitive. As a result, nerite snails will eventually die in the aquarium if even a small amount of copper is present.
    2. A nerite snail has a higher likelihood of dying if there is an excess of Nitrate and Ammonia.
    3. Poor water conditions for your nerite snails
    4. Since they are natural algae eaters, if you completely remove or filter out the algae from your aquarium, they will eventually die.

    Final Thoughts

    Freshwater snails are very popular in the freshwater fishkeeping niche. And now you know why!

    Their fascinating and peaceful appearance is a go-ahead for any aquarists to raise them as pets. Now you know how to tell if a snail is dead or sleeping or hibernating or peacefully floating, things would be much easier for you.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Molly Fish Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices (With Pictures)!

    Molly Fish Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices (With Pictures)!

    Do you keep molly fish? Congratulations, you have some wonderful pets! But did you know that molly fish can be kept with many other great freshwater fish? Choosing the perfect tank mates always requires great care, but this article will make your decision so much easier!

    Read along to learn about the 15 best tank mates for molly fish. Let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose peaceful, similar-sized fish when choosing tank mates for your molly fish.
    • Be careful not to overstock your aquarium by adding too many fish. 30 gallons is a good starting size for a great molly fish community tank.
    • Make sure all the fish you want to keep will be happy in the same conditions and parameters.

    Choosing Molly Fish Tank Mates – What You Need To Know

    Choosing the best tank mates for molly fish is all about understanding their needs and the other species you want to add to their tank. We’ll be covering some amazing fish species later in this post, but let’s start by going over the thought process for choosing great tank mates.

    Temperament

    Some fish are more aggressive than others, so it’s important to choose fish with similar levels of aggression.

    Molly fish are peaceful but not shy. They can hold their own with fairly boisterous fish but should not be kept with aggressive fish or larger predatory species.

    Mollies are livebearers. They will eat their own young, but so will most other tank mates, so it is best to set up a breeding tank if you plan on breeding molly fish (video source).

    Mollies are generally peaceful, but they will often eat shrimp. You could try to keep them together in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding spaces, however.

    Size

    There is a general rule in the fish-keeping hobby. If a fish can fit in another fish’s mouth, they are not safe tank mates!

    Mollies grow from 4-6 inches long and are certainly capable of eating very small, slow-moving fish. Likewise, large fish can easily snack on your mollies. Choose similar-sized fish, although fast schooling fish like neon tetras are generally safe.

    Competition

    Molly fish are hardy and have a very healthy appetite. They are not likely to be outcompeted for food at meal times, but you might need to make sure other shy species are getting their fair share.

    Parameters & Tank Setup

    It is vitally important to compare the preferred water parameters of different fish before adding them together in a community fish tank. Some fish have very specific needs and just won’t survive in typical tropical fish tanks.

    Let’s take a look at the recommended water parameters for your molly fish:

    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (29 gallons+ recommended)
    • Water Flow: Low-Moderate

    Molly fish can live in saltwater, but most other fish aren’t so flexible, so never mix fresh and saltwater fish in the same tank.

    15 Greatv Aquarium Mates

    Having considered all the information above, it’s time to dive in and meet 15 awesome freshwater fish that you can keep with mollies.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Dwarf Gourami

    Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Origin: Bangladesh, India, Pakistan
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The dwarf gourami is a peaceful community fish with an interesting look. A pair of these colorful labyrinth fish would make a great addition to your molly fish community tank.

    Dwarf gouramis are relatives of the betta fish. They come in some amazing colors, including neon reds, blues, and orange tones. They are fairly shy and will do best in a planted aquarium.

    2. Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 1.75 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Guppies are ideal tankmates for your molly fish. Guppy fish are basically, the smaller, more colorful cousin of the molly fish. They are very easy to care for and will add loads of life to your tropical fish tank.

    Guppy fish are livebearers, just like mollies. They will breed regularly in your aquarium, although the fry are not likely to survive the hungry mouths of their larger tank mates.

    3. Platy

    Red Wagtail Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 77 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.2
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Platy fish are another small livebearer that are peaceful tank mates for mollies. There are many different platy breeds, often with bold shades of yellow, orange, and black. These undemanding fish are a great choice for a mixed livebearer tank.

    4. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Neon tetras add a burst of bright color and activity to any freshwater tropical aquarium. These small schooling fish are peaceful and very easy to care for.

    Neon tetras prefer a lower pH than mollies, so they are not recommended for tanks with a pH over 7. These tiny tetras are strictly schooling fish, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6 to 10.

    5. Cardinal Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81 ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The Cardinal tetra is another brightly colored tetra species from South America. They are a slightly larger and even more colorful relative of the neon tetra. These peaceful fish are a little more challenging to care for, and also come with a higher price tag.

    Cardinal Tetras reward the fishkeeper with amazing colors and a peaceful attitude. They make a wonderful tank mate for molly fish.

    6. Endler’s Livebearers

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 86 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Endler’s livebearer fish are very similar to guppies, but do not grow as large and have different markings and fins. Endler’s livebearer fish are very confident, even though they are small fish. These peaceful nano fish make some of the best tank mates for mollies.

    7. Otocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Bottom & Glass
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Diet: Algae

    Otos are nano catfish that do a very important job in the aquarium. They are super-peaceful, and one of the only fish that will not eat your molly fry.

    These tiny fish eat algae on the glass and other surfaces in your aquarium to keep the tank looking neat and clean.

    8. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Origin: India
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 75 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Zebra danios are very fast and hardy tropical freshwater fish. These active community fish are great for adding heaps of movement to any community tank.

    Zebra danios are peaceful fish that will thrive on the same food and care as their live-bearing tank mates.

    9. Siamese Algae Eater

    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus siamensis
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The Siamese algae eater is another excellent molly fish tank mate. Choose this peaceful fish species for keeping your tank clean and adding activity. Fish keepers also appreciate their ability to devour black beard algae (BBA) – something that very few aquarium fish will eat!

    Siamese algae eaters are very fast, active fish that will also enjoy prepared fish food like flakes and pellets. They grow up to 6 inches and they should be kept in school of at least 4 so keep them in a tank of 30 gallons or more.

    10. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 – 30 gallons depending on fish species
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 1 – 3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The corydoras catfish is a great addition to any peaceful community tank. These small bottom dwellers are super peaceful and will not bother your molly fish at all. Cory cats are very social fish, so you’ll need a school of at least 6 of the same species to see them acting at their confident best.

    Cory catfish come in tonnes of different species, ranging from the tiny midwater schoolers like the dwarf cory to the regular-sized species like bronze, Sterba’s, and panda cories.

    11. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Origin: China
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Upper/Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 72 ยฐF
    • pH: 6- 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    White cloud mountain minnows are excellent community fish for cooler water conditions. These graceful schooling fish tend to hang out in middle to upper layers of the water column.

    White clouds are easy to care for and come in a cool long-finned variety as well as a gold color morph. They will not make good tank mates with tropical fish but they will be happy at 68 – 72 degrees which is the lower limit for your molly fish.

    12. Harlequin Rasboras

    • Scientific Name: Rasbora heteromorpha
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Upper/Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 77 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Harlequin rasboras are hardy schooling fish that make a great addition to a molly fish community tank. These colorful fish have a rich orange body color with a bold black triangular marking on each side.

    They enjoy similar water parameters to molly fish but will do best towards the lower end of the pH and water temperature range. Add a school of 8 or more to enjoy their beautiful schooling behavior.

    13. Bristle Nose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Are you looking for a unique bottom dweller to add to your molly fish tank? Look no further than the weird and wonderful bristle nose pleco! These small armored catfish spend their time hanging out at the bottom of the tank.

    They graze on algae and driftwood, and won’t bother your mollies, although you should only keep one pleco in the tank to avoid any fighting. Just make sure you pick up a bristle nose pleco rather than a larger species.

    14. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle/upper
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 -82 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.3
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The swordtail is yet another great livebearer for freshwater tanks. They are extremely peaceful and come in an exciting array of different colors and breeds. Swordtails are a little smaller than mollies and the males have a long, distinctive tail which is where they get their name.

    These hardy fish are very easy to care for and won’t interbreed with your mollies. Swordtails enjoy very similar water parameters too, so you won’t need to worry about the two being comfortable in the same tank.

    15. Tiger Barbs

    Tiger Barb Fish
    • Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Tiger barbs have a reputation for being a little mean towards other fish, but fortunately, mollies are tough and hardy, so they can handle themselves just fine. However, make sure to keep your tiger barbs in a school of at least 6 (preferably more) to prevent any aggression.

    Community Aquarium Setup

    Are you ready to set up your own molly fish community tank? Let’s take a look at what you will need!

    Aquarium Size

    Molly fish are often kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, although I would recommend starting at 30 gallons for a small community setup. A 55-gallon tank would be a better option if you want to have a few different fish species in schools.

    Heating

    Molly fish require a heater in most homes. If you live in a warm area, you might be able to keep molly fish in an unheated aquarium with other fish species like white cloud minnows, swordtails, and zebra danios.

    A reliable heater is a safer bet because it allows you to maintain a healthy, stable temperature for your fish. An electric thermometer with an alarm that sounds when the water gets too cool is very useful as a reminder if you’re going to be switching off your heater for the summer.

    Filtration

    Good filtration is the difference between a healthy vibrant tank and a toxic environment. Invest in good filtration if you want the best for the fish in your molly community tank.

    A large sponge filter (or two) is a doable option for your molly community tank, but a hang-on back or canister filter is going to provide much better mechanical filtration in larger aquariums.

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    Don’t be afraid to run two different filters in your community tank. Overfiltering is a great way to keep your water quality high, although you should take care to keep your water flow down to low or moderate levels.

    Decorations and Substrate

    Adding decorations and substrate is a great way to make your molly community tank a more interesting environment for your fish, and a more appealing display for you and your family.

    You can let your creativity run wild when arranging your layout, or take a more natural approach to recreate the wild environment of your fish.

    Whichever route you take, make sure you use fish-safe products that are designed for aquarium use. You can design a beautiful layout by using a combination of the following materials:

    • Substrate: Sand, gravel, or aquarium soil
    • Driftwood: Spiderwood, manzanita, etc.
    • Rocks: Dragon stone, seiryu, lava rock, etc.
    • Ornaments/decorations: Caves, sunken ships, castles, etc.

    Live plants

    Live plants make the difference between a good aquarium and a great aquarium. They might not be for everyone, but aquarium plants can be remarkably easy to care for and provide some amazing benefits for your fish.

    Start with the following species if you’re new to growing live plants:

    • Java Fern – A low-maintenance epiphyte
    • Amazon Sword – A large-leaved rosette plant
    • Water Wisteria – A fast-growing stem plant

    Feeding your fish

    Molly fish are very easy to feed, like most of the recommended tank mates in this post. They will thrive on a diet of high-quality prepared foods like flakes or pellets. Feed your fish once or twice a day, providing only enough food for them to finish in a minute or two.

    Supplement your fish’s diet with occasional treats like frozen foods, baby brine shrimp, blood worms, and other insect larvae. It will improve their condition, and they’ll love it too!

    Some fish have specialized diets, and the otocinclus catfish mentioned in this article is a good example.

    These tiny catfish only eat algae, so they need to be kept in a mature, healthy aquarium with a good supply of natural algae. They can also be fed with vegetables like zucchini and other algae foods like wafers.

    Where To Buy Aquarium Mates

    All the fish in this list of tank mates for molly fish were selected to be easy to care for and easy to locate. You should have no trouble finding them at most pet stores, but consider buying from some of my recommended online dealers for a hassle-free online shopping experience! Flip Aquatics gets my full recommendation as they quarantine all their livestock.

    FAQs

    What Fish Can Mollies Live With?

    Mollies can live with a variety of other fish species. Popular compatible fish include other livebearers and small schooling fish like tetras and corydoras catfish.

    Do Mollies Need Aquarim Mates?

    Mollies do not need tank mates, although they are a great community fish species. However, you should not keep just a single molly because these fish prefer to live in groups with their own species.

    How Many Mollies Should Be Kept Together?

    It is best to keep a minimum of 3 mollies, although you can keep a much larger school if you have a large aquarium. Keep one male molly fish and two or three female molly fish in a smaller tank.

    Do Mollies Eat Other Fish?

    Mollies do not usually eat other fish although they will eat anything slow enough and small enough to swallow. They will feed on baby fish fry.

    Can Black Mollies Live With Other Companions?

    Black molly fish make great community fish. They can be kept with the same tank mates as other molly breeds like sailfin molly fish and balloon molly fish.

    Are Mollies Bottom-Dwelling?

    Molly fish usually hang out in the middle layers of the aquarium. However, they will explore and forage in all layers of your fish tank.

    Final Thoughts

    Molly fish are one of the most popular species in the aquarium hobby for a good reason. These fascinating and hardy pets get along great with many other fish species. Pick tank mates from this list for your own community aquarium and enjoy everything these fish have to offer!

    Do you keep molly fish in a community tank? Tell us about your favorite tank mates in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Electric Blue Acara – A Complete Care Guide

    Electric Blue Acara – A Complete Care Guide

    Are you thinking about adding an electric blue acara to your tank? If so, you’re in for a real treat! These vibrant fish are sure to add some excitement to your aquarium. In this guide, we’ll provide everything you need to know about keeping electric blue acaras healthy and happy. We’ll cover everything from their ideal temperature range to their dietary needs. So, whether you’re a beginner or a seasoned pro, read on for the essential information you need to care for these beautiful fish!

    Key Takeaways

    • Electric blue acaras are a type of hybrid South American cichlid.
    • These fish are very popular due to their intense coloration, compatible demeanor, and ease of breeding.
    • The electric blue acara is a large fish that needs plenty of open swimming space and decorations to rearrange.

    A Quick Overview On The Electric Blue Acara

    Scientific NameAndinoacara pulcher
    Common NamesElectric blue acara, Blue acara, Acara
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginUnnaturally occurring (Hybridization of a South American cichlid species)
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan7 to 10 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelMiddle to bottom
    Minimum Tank Size40 gallons
    Temperature Range74ยฐ F to 82ยฐ F
    Water Hardness2 to 10 KH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilitySemi-aggressive community tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With caution

    What Is Are They?

    The electric blue acara is not a naturally occurring fish. This is a hybrid mainly derived from the naturally occurring blue acara, Andinoacara pulcher; it is believed that they were mixed with blue ram cichlids (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) at some point as well. This means that the electric blue acara cannot be found in nature and has been bred for its color expression within the aquarium hobby.

    While a hybrid, the electric blue acara is still regarded as the Andinoacara pulcher species. They are members of the Cichlidae family and a type of South American cichlid.

    In the aquarium hobby, the electric blue acara is a favorite cichlid to keep due to its bright coloration, hardiness, conforming temperament, and easy breeding. Unlike other similar South American cichlids that are mouth brooders, the electric blue acara is an egg layer that displays excellent parental care.

    When shopping for your electric blue acara, make sure to confirm whether it is a hybrid or the parent species. Some fish stores may label this species as blue acara or simply acara, which can be confusing.

    Origin and Habitat

    The electric blue acara (video source) may not occur in the wild, but its closest relative, the blue acara, does. The blue acara originates from South America, mainly throughout parts of mainland Venezuela and off the coast in Trinidad and Tobago. They have also been documented in several other countries as nonnatives, but little documentation of their range exists.

    In these countries, the blue acara can be found in a variety of ecosystems. These conditions range from murky, standstill waters to clear and running rivers. As a South American cichlid, the blue acara prefers softer and more acidic water parameters.

    Appearance

    What makes the electric blue acara so appealing to hobbyists is its colors. These fish are a flash of brilliant light in the aquarium with their bright blue bodies!

    How Does An Electric Blue Acara Look Like

    The electric blue acara was hybridized from a series of overly bright and colorful blue acara as well as blue rams. This led to their almost-metallic pale blue body color; some fish may have underlying hints of yellow or orange. Lower-grade acaras might even have patches of blue missing, revealing sections of black and grey.

    Electric blue acaras have relatively large fins with respect to their body size. Mature males have a longer and more pointed dorsal fin while females typically have smaller fins overall. They can both display a yellow or orange margin on the top of the dorsal fin.

    This difference in size is not always a tried and true method to tell male and female fish apart, though, especially if they’re still juveniles. As we’ll see, male and female pairs will need to form on their own in most scenarios.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Don’t be mistaken by the popularity of dwarf South American cichlids. The electric blue acara is a full-grown member of the cichlid family, growing to be about 6 to 7 inches on average. These freshwater fish are not dwarf cichlids and cannot be kept in nano tank conditions!

    How Long Do They Live?

    On top of being a relatively big fish, electric blue acaras can live for a surprisingly long time. On average, these fish live to be anywhere from 7 to 10 years old. They are very hardy and will thrive in an established and well-maintained freshwater setup.

    Care

    The electric blue acara is a hardy fish without many needs. Remember, blue acaras can be found in a variety of environmental conditions, which means that these freshwater fish can also adapt to most aquarium conditions.

    All in all, the electric blue acara has very basic cichlid care requirements.

    Aquarium Setup

    While you might have a perfect aquarium setup in mind for your new electric blue acara, your fish might have other plans. Like other cichlids, electric blues will rearrange the tank to how they like it, especially during spawning periods.

    Electric blue acaras are relatively large fish that enjoy their swimming space. They mainly stay towards the bottom of the tank but will venture into the upper middle portions at times.

    The best electric blue acara tank will have a minimal design with open space that accents the natural colors and behaviors of the fish. This includes a sand substrate along with driftwood or rock for decoration.

    Electric blue acaras can successfully be kept with live plants, but only species that mind being uprooted from time to time. Because of this, some hobbyists only keep floating plants with their cichlids.

    Good live plants for electric blue acaras include:

    These fish don’t need a lot of plant coverage, but a backdrop of green will especially make their colors pop out. Floating plants can be very helpful for dimming lighting conditions and making fish feel more like in their natural habitat.

    Otherwise, electric blues can be kept in a community tank setting as long as small fish species are able to find protection in size, a school, or in decorations.

    Tank Size

    There are many ways to set up a tank with the electric blue acara in mind. In most cases, hobbyists use this fish species as the showpiece of the display, with all other species being catered towards them. Other hobbyists keep only electric blue acaras in their tanks and let them breed.

    The bare minimum tank size for an electric blue breeding tank is 40 gallons. This allows for the male and female fish as well as the fry until they are big enough to stop receiving parental care. If planning on keeping a pair of electric blue acaras in a community tank with other species, then at least 55 gallons is recommended with a larger tank size being much more preferred.

    Electric blue acara are active swimmers that need a lot of open space to enjoy. As a cichlid species, they can also be territorial, especially the males during spawning times. To help prevent any possible aggression from this otherwise peaceful fish, a larger tank will allow for more space between tank mates.

    Water Parameters

    The electric blue acara is a hardy fish that generally adapts to most aquarium water conditions. They are regarded as a beginner cichlid species, forgiving imperfections and wavering water parameters. That being said, they cannot tolerate ammonia or nitrite and breeding will demand more specific parameters.

    To keep your electric blue as happy and healthy as possible, imitate the conditions found in the blue acara’s natural habitat in South America. This means soft, acidic water with water hardness between 2 and 10 KH and pH between 6.0 to 7.0. They are tropical fish and need a tropical water temperature between 74ยฐ F to 82ยฐ F.

    Tank Maintenance

    A weekly or biweekly 15 to 25% water change should be performed to keep nitrates low and to keep water quality up. Live plants will help keep nitrate levels from rising, but the rest will need to be manually removed. Most tanks do well with under 20 ppm nitrate.

    At the same time as the water change, the substrate should be vacuumed to remove uneaten food and other wastes that might have accumulated. Because these are bigger fish, they’ll eat bigger foods that cause a lot more nutrients to enter the water column if left to rot.

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    Filtration and other aquarium equipment should also be cleaned every few months depending on waste and algae buildup.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Electric blue acaras do well with a hang on the back or canister filter. They do not have any special filtration needs other than regular maintenance.

    This filter should be rated for at least 2x the size of the tank as these are relatively big fish. Electric blue acaras do best in a slow to medium flow, though they can adapt to higher water currents as long as there are areas of lower flow throughout the aquarium. Also, note that a higher flow can upset a sand substrate in addition to the disruption caused by your fish.

    Additional aeration is usually not necessary but an air stone can be used to help circulate lower portions of the tank and to add aesthetic.

    Lighting

    Though these colorful fish look best under high lighting, they prefer low to medium light settings. Because hobbyists don’t usually keep light-demanding plant species with electric blue acaras, there is no recommended light setup; these fish will thrive under a fluorescent or LED light fixture.

    If the light fixture is too intense, then floating plants and other aquarium decorations can be used to diffuse bright areas. Keep in mind that a low water flow in addition to high lighting can fuel algae growth.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    As mentioned before, electric blue acara can be kept with a variety of live plants. The problem is that these fish regularly uproot and disturb their surroundings, so the species of plants kept must be able to tolerate some rough handling.

    Again, some of the best species include Anubias, Java fern, and hornwort. Though some hobbyists may try to tie or glue these plants down, your fish will rearrange the tank to its liking eventually.

    The same can be said about the aquarium decorations used. Most cichlid enthusiasts keep their tanks simple with rocks, like Texas holey rock, ceramic flower pots, and driftwood. Electric blues will likely claim a piece of this real estate for themselves and guard it against other tank mates, though usually in a passive manner. During spawning times, electric blue acara will become noticeably more aggressive and territorial.

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    Substrate

    Almost all cichlids love to burrow in the sand. Some even create breeding pits where they spawn, including the electric blue acara.

    These aquarium fish will do best on a sandy substrate where they are free to change their surroundings based on their own preferences. This can certainly become messy at times and leave the controlling aquascaper frustrated. However, gravel can frustrate the fish and even injure them.

    Food and Diet

    One of the best things about electric blue acara is that they eat anything you offer them! These fish are not picky and are a joy to watch eat. That being said, they need a high-quality diet to keep their colors shining brightest.

    Electric blues will appreciate a variety of live, freeze-dried, and frozen foods. They are larger fish that need to be fed several times throughout the day. To help keep costs down, a high-quality fish food flake or pellet may be given regularly. Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, bloodworms, earthworms, and even fresh pieces of mollusk and fish may be given as a treat.

    A poor diet will not result in the best colors and may affect the success of broods and the spawning process.

    Community Tank Mates

    Electric blue acaras are a favorite cichlid due to their passive demeanor. They can be kept with an assortment of tank mates, both bigger and smaller, more active and less active.

    The best electric blue acara community tank mates include:

    They have even been safely kept with larger invertebrates, including dwarf crayfish and nerite snails.

    If you’re looking for a cichlid-tank setup, then here are the best compatible cichlid species for your electric blue acara:

    Are They Aggressive?

    Though they are labeled as semi-aggressive fish, electric blues can be both ends of the spectrum when needed. In a community tank, these fish will be peaceful. When placed with more aggressive species, they will be able to hold their own.

    Can You Keep A Single By Itself?

    While electric blue acaras aren’t schooling fish, they definitely prefer to be in groups with their own kind. It is not recommended to only keep one single electric blue acara as this could cause stress in the form of aggression or reclusion.

    How Many Should You Have?

    Electric blue acaras are usually kept in pairs. However, males and females can be difficult to tell apart, especially when they’re typically sold as juveniles in aquarium stores.

    To get the best breeding pair possible, many hobbyists purchase a small group of about 5 fish. As they mature, they naturally pair off on their own. This saves some confusion about sexing them and gives the hobbyist several pairs to choose from.

    In the end, though, most hobbyists only keep one pair due to males becoming aggressive towards each other.

    Poor Tank Mates

    While the electric blue acara is one of the most adaptable cichlid tank mates, they’re not right for every home aquarium setup. Poor tank mates are ones that can easily fit in an electric blue’s mouth or ones that are overly aggressive or that try to fight back!

    In addition, small invertebrates, like dwarf shrimp and snails, will also be seen as food for your electric blue acara.

    Breeding

    Breeding electric blue acara is fun and easy. Unlike other similar cichlids, the electric blue acara is an egg layer and not a mouthbrooder. These fish still display some excellent parenting, though! Check out the video below from Uri Shasha.

    The most challenging part about breeding electric blues is getting a good breeding pair. As mentioned before, it can be difficult to tell the males apart from the females. Males are typically larger with more elongated and pointed dorsal fins, while females are smaller. Even as adults, these physical differences can be hard to see.

    Luckily, electric blue acaras are monogamous fish that mate for life. They become sexually mature when they are 1 year old and about 4 inches.

    To get a breeding pair, it’s recommended to purchase a small group of juveniles and allow them to pair off on their own. Once mature, the best pair may be picked. These fish may then be bred in the main display aquarium or in a breeding tank. A 20-gallon breeding tank will allow for more control and overall success in keeping fry alive.

    In either case, the water temperature should be set to 77ยฐ F with a relatively neutral pH and slightly soft water. When ready, the female will lay her eggs on flat rocks or other accessible surfaces throughout the aquarium. One clutch includes about 100 to 200 eggs. The male will quickly fertilize them once laid.

    Over the course of the next two to three days, the parents will protect the eggs. It’s possible that they will create a pit in the substrate where they will move the fry once hatched. This can cause a lot of disruption to the substrate and aquascaping. During this time, males will become especially aggressive towards other tank mates, though won’t usually injure or kill them.

    After these few days, the eggs will hatch. The parents may move the fry to the pit or leave them where they are. The parents will continue to deliver care until the fry are fully free-swimming. Then, the parent electric blues will deliver food to the fry, so small foods, like baby brine shrimp, should be supplemented. At this point, the fry or the parents may be removed from the tank to increase survival chances. This is especially recommended if spawning these fish in the main display.

    Over the next two months, the baby fish will continue to develop. They should continue to be given small fry food, but can eventually be fed crushed fish flakes. Once big enough, the baby electric blue acaras can be moved to the display aquarium or given to another hobbyist.

    The parent electric blues will be ready to mate again in a matter of weeks. Once they have started, they are likely to continue as long as water quality and other tank conditions are met.

    Common Health Problems

    Electric blue acaras are hardier than most fish. Because they’re hybrids, they exist only in the aquarium hobby and have been exposed to the most common health problems. Still, these fish are susceptible to freshwater ich and skin flukes. Luckily, these problems can be easily treated and easily avoided.

    When purchasing an electric blue acara, make sure that its colors are bright and its behaviors are normal. These fish should be active and colorful. Always ask the store representative to watch them eat; if there is any refusal, the fish is most likely sick or stressed.

    As always, it’s recommended to quarantine new fish for at least three weeks before adding them to a new system.

    Final Thoughts

    Electric blue acaras are an extremely popular hybrid cichlid. These beautiful fish are vibrant in coloration and behavior and are some of the easiest cichlids to breed. Electric blues are large fish, so they need to be given plenty of space, especially if planning to keep a pair with other tank mates. However, they can be kept in a variety of tank setups and will accommodate the demeanors of other fish.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Comet Goldfish – A Complete Care Guide

    Comet Goldfish – A Complete Care Guide

    Goldfish make popular pets due to their low price and easy care requirements. However, some goldfish owners may not be aware of the specific needs of comet goldfish. This guide provides a complete overview of comet goldfish care, including how to select a healthy fish, what to feed them, and how to create a suitable environment. By following these tips, you can help your comet goldfish thrive and enjoy a long life in your home aquarium.

    Key Takeaways

    • The comet goldfish is named after its long and forked flowing tail.
    • These fish are most closely related to the common goldfish breed, meaning that they can grow in excess of a foot long and live long lives.
    • Like most goldfish, the comet goldfish creates a lot of waste and does best in a large aquarium or pond setting with strong filtration.

    Comet Goldfish Overview

    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    Common NamesComet goldfish, Comet-tailed goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan15+ years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels, mainly mid-level
    Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
    Temperature Range60ยบF to 72ยบF
    Water Hardness2 to 12 KH
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityCompatible with koi and other single-tail goldfish
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With caution

    What Is A Comet Goldfish?

    Most people have owned a goldfish at one point or another in their lives. But did you know that there are many different types of goldfish all with their own unique traits and characteristics?

    The comet goldfish is a common breed of goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus. These fish are very similar to the main breed of goldfish, the common goldfish. While these two fish are the same species, there are a few differences between them and other goldfish. As we’ll see, the main difference lies in the shape of their tail fin.

    Are They Good Pets?

    We might be biased, but we think that all fish make good pets. They’re easy to keep, relatively inexpensive, low on time requirements, and make any area of the home come to life.

    Comet goldfish care is relatively straightforward, even for inexperienced keepers. As long as time and research are given to making preparations before impulsively buying the fish, then your comet goldfish should be with you as a pet for years to come.

    Why Are They So Cheap?

    If comet goldfish make good pets, then why are they so cheap? These fish are often given away as prizes or as supplementary food for larger fish. They are often sold for under a dollar and are found in nearly every pet store that carries fish. There are a few reasons why these fish are so cheap.

    The first reason is that comet goldfish are bred on a mass scale as primarily feeder fish. These fish are easy to breed and easy to keep, making them an ideal breed to retail as feeder fish. The problem is that they are often kept in poor conditions which leads them to be very sickly, subsequently spreading disease and illness to each other and to other fish.

    The other reason why comet goldfish are so cheap is that they’re not very desirable fish and take up a lot of space. We’re sad to say that there are many more beautiful fish other than the comet goldfish, including fancy goldfish. These fancier counterparts are more ornate and take up less space. This, in addition to the hundreds of other more colorful tropical fish available, leaves many hobbyists choosing something other than a cold water fish.

    Origin and Habitat

    Goldfish have been domesticated for hundreds of years for their colors and symbolism. These fish were and still are a sign of wealth and prosperity, though many hobbyists adore them for their extreme hardiness and variety of breeds.

    The first goldfish were domesticated from crucian carp. These carp originated in China from cold and shallow lakes and ponds. Crucian carp typically feature dusky brown and yellow coloration. Over time, the undertones of yellow and orange were selectively bred until arriving at the intense coloration of the common goldfish today.

    However, the breeding didnโ€™t stop there. There are estimated to be well over 100 breeds of goldfish, with the comet being one of the most closely related to the common goldfish.

    Comet goldfish and common goldfish do not naturally exist in the wild. In fact, no breed of goldfish exists in the wild. Sadly, many people are unaware of goldfishโ€™s true needs and release them into nearby streams and rivers. Many of these fish donโ€™t survive, but some do. This makes them an invasive species that could potentially impact ecosystems on a large scale1

    Appearance

    The comet goldfish is one of the more basic-looking breeds of goldfish. There are a few differences between this breed and the common breed. The biggest difference lies in their fins.

    What Does A Comet Goldfish Look Like

    Comet goldfish have long and flowing fins that resemble the tail of an astronomical comet. This is in comparison to the common goldfishโ€™s short and triangular fins that follow close behind. The biggest difference between these two fins is that comets have a deeply forked tail fin while commonโ€™s have a slight indent in the middle.

    For the most part, common goldfish only come in typical goldfish-orange coloration. Comets offer more variety with orange, yellow, red, and white color patterns. 

    How Big Do They Get?

    One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a breed of goldfish is its potential size. Common goldfish can easily surpass a foot in length, though most stay about 10 inches on average.

    Because of their long, flowing fins, comet goldfish size is typically going to be slightly larger, reaching mature lengths of 12 inches. It should also be said that while these fish grow to be long, they can also grow to be pretty chunky too!

    Do They Stop Growing?

    Itโ€™s long been said that fish will only grow to be the size of the tank that theyโ€™re given.

    Or maybe youโ€™ve heard that fish will have externally stunted growth in small tanks, but that their organs keep growing on the inside.

    While this area of fish biology has been little studied, it is true that both these statements are false. The majority of fish, including goldfish, are indeterminate growers that continue to grow with age as long as environmental conditions allow. Though it might seem like your fish has comfortably grown into its tank, itโ€™s actually being stunted due to other factors, including limited space, poor water quality, and in diet. However, its organs will grow in relationship to its body.

    How Long Does It Take For Them Reach Full Size?

    This is a very common question as many aquarium keepers plan on growing out their goldfish until it’s ready for a bigger aquarium or pond. It’s important to know that goldfish grow rapidly and don’t stop.

    Comet goldfish can grow to their mature size in a matter of a year or two. A small fish can quickly become full-grown before you know it. Though a grow-out tank is ideal for an outdoor pond system to prevent predators from eating juveniles, this method is never recommended for a tank-to-tank transfer.

    How Long Do They Live?ย 

    Goldfish have extremely long lives and can live for a long time in less-than-perfect conditions. Comet goldfish can live about 15 years with many growing older than this. These fish are a long-term commitment and need to be given plenty of thought before being purchased.

    Color Variations

    Not all goldfish are gold. In fact, the comet goldfish comes in many different colors besides the traditional copper tone of the common breed. These fish can be orange or yellow and have red and white color patterns. Some of these color combinations have been specifically bred with design in mind.

    These designer comet goldfish include:

    Sarasa comet goldfish. This variety has a white body with multiple solid bright red spots. This red coloration is typically on the dorsal portions of the fish but can extend to the underbelly as well.

    Tancho single-tail comet goldfish. The Tancho coloration is simple yet effective. These fish have a bright red cap on their head while the rest of the body stays iridescent white. This cap may be irregular in shape, sometimes splitting in half.

    Care Requirements

    Goldfish are an oxymoron. They are an easy fish species to keep, but their care requirements can be surprisingly demanding. While comet goldfish are very hardy fish that can survive less-than-perfect water conditions, they require a lot of upkeep and maintenance to keep them happy and healthy.

    Aquarium Setup

    Goldfish setups are simple by design. These fish do best with tons of open swimming space, little to no decorations, and strong filtration. No matter what though, these fish cannot live in a goldfish bowl!

    Comet goldfish are inexpensive fish that are usually won at carnivals and fairs. They are sometimes even sold as feeder fish for other larger predatory species. Because of their inexpensive price and oftentimes small holding tanks, unknowing goldfish owners think that they don’t need an elaborate setup. While this is true, there are some conditions that need to be met.

    A good comet goldfish tank will be a large tank with an appropriate substrate, good water flow and aeration, correct water temperatures, and appropriate tank mates. Comet fish can also be kept in outdoor ponds as they hibernate over the cold months.

    Some goldfish enthusiasts keep live plants with their comets. Plants add many benefits to the home aquarium and are essential for keeping a natural environment in pond settings. However, goldfish love to eat and uproot plants, which can add additional waste to the system. Hardy and fast-growing species, like Anacharis and hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), can be successfully kept in a goldfish aquarium.

    Tank Size

    Sadly, many goldfish are kept in improper tank sizes. These are large and active freshwater fish that create a lot of waste. They need space to move around and water volume to help keep ammonia and nitrite levels down.

    The minimum tank size recommended for one comet goldfish is a 55 gallon tank. This might seem like a lot, especially when the fish is only a few inches big. However, comet goldfish can grow to over 10 inches in the first couple of years of their life. Too many hobbyists purchase goldfish with the intention of getting a larger aquarium or building a pond. Many times, these plans fall through and the fish is left in too small of a tank (video source).

    In order to keep another comet goldfish, a 75 gallon tank is needed. In general, every additional fish requires another 40 gallons of water. This is why these fish tend to do best in a large pond setting, though it is possible to keep multiple comet goldfish long-term in the home aquarium.

    Water Parameters

    It’s important to keep in mind that goldfish aren’t tropical fish like many of the other species available in the aquarium hobby. They originate from cold waters and need to be kept in cooler conditions in the home aquarium setting. For some hobbyists, this means buying an aquarium chiller to help keep the water temperature down.

    The ideal water temperature range for comet goldfish is between 60ยบF and 72ยบF. Some hobbyists keep their comet goldfish tank above or below these values, but overly hot temperatures can lead to stress while cooler temperatures can lead to hibernation. Ambient room temperature is often enough to keep a goldfish aquarium heated, but extra stability can be achieved through a low-range heater.

    On top of colder water temperatures, comet goldfish care relies heavily on maintaining ammonia and nitrite levels. These fish create a ton of waste through their diet and fast metabolism. Most oversized filtration can keep up with processing fish waste, but regular tank maintenance and weekly or daily water changes are also needed; most hobbyists perform upwards of 25% water changes at any given time.

    Lighting

    Comet goldfish do not require special lighting. Because they are not commonly kept with live plants, there is no need for high-tech equipment. Instead, comet goldfish can live under LED or fluorescent settings.

    There is a chance that your goldfish will change colors based on the intensity of the lighting; a darker light will cause your fish to become darker and vice versa.

    Filtration and Aeration

    One of the most important aspects of keeping comet goldfish is picking the right filtration. These are big fish with fast metabolisms that create a lot of waste. It is generally recommended to use filtration that is rated for at least 4x the size of the aquarium, with bigger always being better.

    Since hang-on-the-back filtration can become too big for the side of the tank, many goldfish keepers use a canister filter. Canister filters are also advantageous as the return nozzles can be pointed downwards to help pick up and remove waste from the bottom of the tank. Multiple hang on the back filters or canister filters can be used for adequate filtration and circulation.

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    To help supplement water flow, powerheads and air stones may also be added. Goldfish have adapted to waters with low dissolved oxygen levels, so air stones usually aren’t necessary for increasing oxygen. Instead, they can be efficient at keeping fish waste from resting at the bottom of the aquarium.

    Substrate

    Goldfish do best without any substrate in a bare-bottom aquarium setup. In fact, having a substrate can create more work for the owner.

    All goldfish, including comet fish, love to dig in and around gravel and sand substrate. They uproot plants, move decorations, and kick up detritus that gets stuck on the bottom. This can become messy over time and lead to problems with water quality. In addition, a bare bottom makes aquarium vacuuming and waste removal much easier, which is essential for keeping a goldfish aquarium clean.

    That being said, goldfish have successfully been kept on both gravel and sand substrates. Extra care and maintenance will be needed to keep waste from entering the water column.

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    Tank Mates

    Once you choose to set up a goldfish tank, there is little you can do to have any other fish besides goldfish. This is mainly because of differences in preferred water temperature, but also because of differing temperaments and behaviors as well as bioload. Goldfish need to be kept with other large and active cold water species, and not many fish meet their criteria or behave as good tank mates.

    The best tank mates for comet goldfish are other single-tail breeds, namely other comets and common goldfish, in addition to koi fish. Unfortunately, these pond fish must be kept with like-breeds and cannot be mixed with fancy varieties. Fancy goldfish are too slow and delicate to compete with much more active comets.

    Some hobbyists have had success keeping zebra danios (Danio rerio) and dojo loaches (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus) with their comets, but we do not recommend this setup for under 100 gallons.

    Diet

    Goldfish are some of the least picky fish when it comes to feeding them; so much so that they might try to eat your finger!

    Comet goldfish are omnivores, which means that they need meat- and plant-based foods. They largely accept most aquarium foods, including live, frozen, and freeze-dried brine shrimp, earthworms, and bloodworms. They will also gladly munch on blanched vegetables, including lettuce, cucumber, and zucchini. Some hobbyists also cultivate easy-to-grow live plants, like Anacharis, to feed their goldfish.

    To help keep costs low, comet goldfish can be given high-quality goldfish pellets or flakes.

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    Comet goldfish will eat as much food as you give them. This means that food should be given in moderation and any leftovers that happen to evade your fish should be removed to keep waste levels low.

    Breeding

    Though easy fish to keep, breeding comet goldfish can be difficult and can usually only be achieved in a large pond setting. There isn’t a huge market for regular comet goldfish in the aquarium trade, so keep in mind that giving fry away can also be challenging.

    Because breeding goldfish in an aquarium setting requires very large systems, we will only focus on spawning comet fish in a pond setting. Spawning naturally occurs during late spring/early summer when the water temperature starts to rise. This can be replicated in the home aquarium by using a heater.

    First, establish a male and female pair. Females are rounder and more robust than streamlined males. Female comets may also develop protruding anal vents during spawning periods while males may develop white tubercles on the gill covers. When ready to mate, males will chase the female in hopes that she will drop her eggs to be fertilized. Because of this aggressive courtship, at least 2 to 3 females should be kept per every male.

    Goldfish Fins

    When ready, the female will lay her eggs. Usually, this is near vegetation, a spawning mop, or another safe structure. The male will fertilize them and they will hatch after a few days. During this time, the parents and other goldfish are likely to eat the eggs. For better success, remove the fertilized eggs and move them to a separate system.

    When the eggs hatch, the fry will stay toward the substrate as they feed off their egg yolk. As the egg yolk runs out, they will become free-swimming and start to search for food. At this point, they may be offered baby brine shrimp, crushed-up pellets and flakes, and other microscopic foods.

    Goldfish fry grow fast, so be prepared to transfer them to their final home within several weeks!

    Common Health Problems

    Like all aquarium fish, comet goldfish are susceptible to common fish diseases like ich, velvet, and fin rot. Because comets have elongated fins, they can easily develop fin rot if water quality is poor.

    There are a few other problems that are unique to goldfish, though.

    Two of the main health problems with goldfish are ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning. Both of these conditions are a result of poor water quality and are easily avoided. However, poor water quality can also lead to swim bladder disease and dropsy, which can be nearly impossible to treat.

    A healthy goldfish always starts with good water quality. Make sure to quarantine new additions for at least 4 weeks and check your tank daily for any changes in appearance or behavior.

    Final Thoughts

    Comet goldfish aren’t the showiest of all goldfish varieties, but they’re more exciting than the common goldfish. That being said, these are still huge fish that need a lot of space and good tank maintenance to keep them from developing health issues. Due to their size and bioload, they’re best in a large aquarium system or an outdoor pond.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • The 30 Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish Species

    The 30 Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish Species

    Are you looking for the perfect fish species for your freshwater aquarium? Choosing the right fish can be loads of fun, but also pretty hard work – there are over ten thousand species out there!

    In this blog post, we’ll be checking out 30 of the best freshwater aquarium fish species in the world and hopefully, you’ll find what you’re looking for.

    Let’s dive right in!

    Key Takeaways

    • Keep schooling fish like tetras, barbs, and danios in groups of at least 6. They will be much more lively and confident that way.
    • Avoid large, aggressive fish if you’re new to keeping fish. There are many amazing beginner fish species to choose from!
    • Research the needs of your fish carefully. Each species has its own tank, water, and diet requirements.
    • Provide your fish with the best care you can. They will reward you with many years of joy and entertainment!

    30 Of The Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish

    Have you ever walked into a fish store and been overwhelmed by the variety of beautiful fish species swimming around in their tanks? It happens to all of us, and it can make choosing the right fish quite a challenge.

    However, if you’re reading this post, you’re on the right track! Learning the key facts about each fish is so important before having it netted and bagged. The 30 fish types in this post are all very different, so pay attention to these facts when making your choice:

    • Scientific Name
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Swimming Level
    • Origin
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Water Temperature
    • pH

    We got a video below from our YouTube channel you can follow along. We go over more detail in our blog post so enjoy looking at both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as post new videos weekly!

    Now, for the fun part, let’s meet some amazing fish!

    1. Betta

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    • Scientific Name: Betta Splendens
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Adult Size: 2.5 – 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 76 โ€“ 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 8

    The betta fish is one of the all-time greatest freshwater aquarium fish species. These fish have amazing colors and the most beautiful fins to match.

    They make great pet fish for first-time fishkeepers and the best part is you can keep one in a tank of just 5 gallons or more. The male fish are very aggressive towards other betta fish, so you should never keep more than one in the same tank.

    2. Angelfish

    Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle/top
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Freshwater angelfish are tropical fish from the cichlid family. These unique freshwater aquarium fish have huge fins on their belly and their back, often making them taller than they are long!

    There are many amazing types of angel fish to choose from, and they are great community fish with other peaceful species like tetras and cory catfish.

    3. Goldfish

    Fantail Goldfish
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All Levels
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Adult Size: 6-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 – 40 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 72ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5

    The goldfish is a mainstay of the aquarium hobby. These popular freshwater aquarium fish have been kept for centuries and are available in many weird and wonderful breeds.

    Goldfish are not ideal fish for beginners, however. They prefer their water cool and they eat plants, so they aren’t the best choice for planted tanks or tropical fish communities.

    Nevertheless, the goldfish is still one of the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world, and they make a wonderful and long-lived pet fish.

    4. Discus

    Discus In An Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Symphysodon discus
    • Care Level: Intermediate-advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 5-8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 82 – 86ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    The discus is a truly gorgeous fish species that you just can’t walk past without admiring. These South American cichlids have some of the most incredible colors and patterns, but they are not ideal for beginner fish keepers.

    Discus fish prefer warmer water than most other species, so mixing them with other fish in a community tank can be tricky. These large fish also need perfect water quality and a nice big aquarium to stay healthy.

    5. Guppy

    Blue Grass Guppy
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Guppies are the perfect fish for beginner fish keepers. They are easy to find and come in a huge range of amazing colors, patterns, and fin types.

    They are live-bearing fish that breed freely in the aquarium, so don’t be surprised if you spot some baby fish in your freshwater tank after a little while! Guppies are very hardy fish and they thrive in water with a slightly higher pH.

    6. Molly

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops, P. latipinna, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Adult Size: 3 – 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5

    Mollies are another great beginner fish for freshwater aquariums. There are a few different species, although the balloon and sailfin mollies tend to be the most popular choices.

    Molly fish are from the same family as the guppy fish, so they’re also really easy to breed in the home aquarium. These interesting fish can even live in saltwater, but they do great in freshwater tanks of 30 gallons or more.

    7. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Central America
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 61 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Swordtails are livebearers, just like guppies and molly fish. The male fish are identified by their amazing sword-like tails, but the female fish can also be very colorful.

    Swordtails come in some awesome colors, including bright orange and even koi patterns. They are very easy to breed and get along peacefully with many other tropical fish species.

    8. Platy

    Sunset Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Adult Size: 2 -3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 79ยฐF
    • pH: 7- 8.2

    Platy fish are very similar to swordtails but do not have the same long tail. They are also a little smaller which means you can keep them in a freshwater tank of just 15 gallons or so.

    Platy fish are available in many different breeds like the sunset and the wagtail platy. Many of them have an orange body that adds a bold splash of color to any freshwater aquarium.

    9. African Cichlids

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara, Pseudotropheus, Haplochromis, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive – aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle/ Bottom
    • Origin: African Rift Lakes
    • Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.4

    African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish in the hobby. There is an amazing variety of different species in this group, but they generally require specialized care and are not suitable for most tropical community tanks.

    African cichlids tend to be aggressive and territorial. They need a fairly large aquarium and high-pH water to thrive. Don’t let that put you off though, these are the perfect fish for more experienced fishkeepers who want a show-stopping aquarium full of life and activity!

    10. New World Cichlids

    Firemouth Cichlid Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Astronotus, Amatitlania, Rocio, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom and middle
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Adult Size: 6 – 12 + inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature:75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 8

    The New World cichlids are similar to African cichlids but are native to America. They range from small to very large and can be peaceful or highly aggressive fish depending on the species. Jack Dempsey fish, Firemouths, Oscars, and convict cichlids are all popular examples of new world cichlids.

    Whether you are just starting out, or you’ve been keeping freshwater fish for a lifetime, there is a New World cichlid for you. As always, just be sure to research the specific needs of any fish before taking it home.

    11. Dwarf Cichlids

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Apistogramma, Mikrogeophagus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy to Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful- semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Africa & South America
    • Adult Size: 2.5 + inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 86ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 8 depending on the species

    Dwarf cichlids are the little cousins of the African and New World cichlids. These small, colorful freshwater fish tend to be relatively peaceful and can make great additions to many community aquariums.

    The dwarf cockatoo cichlid, German blue ram, Apistogrammas, and the Kribensis cichlid are all great examples of dwarf cichlids.

    12. Arowana

    Arowana Fish
    • Scientific Name: Scleropages formosus
    • Care Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Top
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 7.5

    The Arowana is a large and impressive freshwater fish that is only suitable for expert fish keepers with plenty of space for a huge aquarium. These beautiful silvery fish can grow to 3 feet in length and need an aquarium of at least 250 gallons when fully grown.

    Arowana fish are carnivores, so they need a high-protein diet such as feeder fish, insects, and other meaty foods. They can do well in community tanks if kept with other more aggressive fish that are too big to swallow.

    13. Tetras

    Ember Tetra in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon, Hyphessobrycon, Gymnocorymbus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: South America, Africa
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Tetras are the perfect choice for a tropical community aquarium. These small, schooling fish come in every color of the rainbow and are generally very easy to care for. Most tetras come from South America1, but some species, like the Congo tetra, are from Africa.

    Choose colorful species like the ember and cardinal tetra to brighten up your aquarium, or go for serpae or black phantoms if you want fish with a more interesting shape.

    14. Barb

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Scientific Name: Barbus, Puntius etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 2 – 13 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 100 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Barbs are another great option for fish keepers who want active, schooling fish for a community aquarium. Most species stay between 2 and 3 inches, but some like the tinfoil barb can grow very large.

    Most barbs are very peaceful fish, but the tiger barb has earned a reputation for being a fin nipper. Barbs are schooling fish that should be kept in groups of 6 or more.

    15. Rasboras

    Rasboras
    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma, Celestichthys, Boraras etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature:68 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 8, depending on the species

    Rasboras are nano (very small) fish from the same family as barbs and goldfish. These peaceful schooling fish are perfect for a tropical community in a heavily planted aquarium where they tend to hang out in the middle level.

    These social fish should not be kept in groups of less than 5, so make sure you pick up a nice big school of the same species to see them behaving confidently.

    16. Gouramis

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster, Trichopsis, Trichopodus etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 28 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68-86ยฐF (depending on species)
    • pH: 5.5 – 8

    Gouramis are wonderful aquarium fish that come in many different shapes and sizes. Nano species like the sparkling gourami can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, while the impressive giant gourami needs about 250 gallons when it is fully grown.

    Most gouramis are very peaceful fish that do best when kept in a pair. They are a great choice for a heavily planted tank with other small community fish.

    17. Killifish

    Gardneri Killifish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Aplocheilus, Jordanella, Fundulopanchax, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Africa, Asia, America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 5.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 75ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Killifish are great nano fish that come in some amazing colors. These fish are not very common in the aquarium trade but they are a great choice for fishkeepers looking for something a little different.

    Some killifish species are very shortlived because they live in temporary pools that evaporate in the dry season. Others can live for multiple years, however.

    18. Danios

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys, Danio, Brachydanio, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Upper levels
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 75ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 7.8

    Danios are small Asian schooling fish that are great for community tanks. Some, like zebra danios, are very hardy and make an ideal choice for beginner fish keepers.

    Danios tend to be very active swimmers, and they can add a lot of movement to your aquarium. They are very social fish, so they need to be kept in a school of at least 6 of their own kind.

    19. Rainbow

    Boesemani Rainbowfish
    • Scientific Name: Marosatherina, Melanotaenia, Pseudomugil etc.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle/Top
    • Origin: Australia, Indonesia
    • Adult Size: 2 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 55 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Rainbowfish are beautiful freshwater fish from Australia and Southeast Asia. They get their name from their awesome colors, which are especially bright when the fish are spawning. They are active fish that need a fairly large aquarium.

    Rainbowfish have a very peaceful nature and fit in well with most other community fish. They are social creatures, however, so keep them in a shoal of 6 or more.

    20. Freshwater Puffers

    Green Spotted Pufferfish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon, Tetraodon etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive/ Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 1 – 24 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 125 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 78ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 7.6

    Freshwater puffers are some of the most fascinating fish in the aquarium hobby. These funny-looking fish are known for their ability to puff up into a ball when threatened by a predator.

    Freshwater pufferfish range in size from nano species like the 1-inch dwarf pea puffer, all the way to 2-foot giants like the Mbu puffer.

    Pufferfish are not very active, so the smallest species can be kept in tanks of just 5 gallons or so. Puffers have very sharp parrot-like teeth, however, and they can be aggressive toward other fish. These fish usually work best in a species-only tank.

    21. Hatchetfish

    Marble Hachet Fish
    • Scientific Name: Carnegiella, Gasteropelecus, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Top
    • Origin: Central & South America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Hatchetfish are unusual, flattened nano fish that spend their time near the surface of the aquarium. These schooling fish have long pectoral fins and huge muscles in their chests that they use to leap out of the water to escape their predators.

    Hatchetfish are wonderful freshwater fish for tropical community tanks. However, their acrobatic abilities mean they need to be kept in a tank with a tight fighting lid and great care is necessary when performing aquarium maintenance.

    22. Freshwater Sharks

    What does a rainbow shark look like
    • Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos, Balantiocheilos, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: Southeast Asia & South America
    • Adult Size: 5 inches – 3 feet +
    • Minimum Tank Size: 65 – 150 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 8

    Freshwater sharks are not true sharks, but they do have a very similar shape. These medium to large aquarium fish are available in some bold colors, including black, red, and silver.

    The rainbow shark is probably the most popular species. This fish has bright red fins and a potentially aggressive nature. Rainbow sharks are also available in some amazing neon colors for fish keepers who want an awesome display fish.

    23. Freshwater Eels

    Fire Eel in driftwood
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus, Macrognathus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Southeast Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 8 inches to several feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Freshwater eels are probably not the first fish that comes to mind when planning a fish tank, but there are many amazing types that you can keep in your aquarium. Some species like the tire-track eel and fire eel even have beautiful patterns and colors.

    These fish need a secure lid to keep them from escaping. They are generally shy and nocturnal, so make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces and keep the lights fairly dim if you want to see them active.

    24. Freshwater Gobies

    Bumblee Goby in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Stiphodon, Brachygobius, Gobioides, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Africa, Asia, Americas
    • Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 50+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5

    Freshwater gobies come in a range of shapes and sizes. These fish have loads of attitude and interesting behavior which makes them fascinating creatures to observe in the home aquarium.

    They range from specialist algae eaters to carnivores and can be peaceful community fish or aggressive fish eaters. Many of the freshwater gobies sold in the hobby actually need brackish water to thrive, so make sure you research these fish carefully before adding them to your tank.

    25. Cory Catfish

    Corydoras Sterbai
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 3o gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Cory catfish are an excellent choice for beginner fish keepers. These small, bottom-dwelling catfish deserve a place in any peaceful community aquarium. They get along with most other fish so they are ideal for a freshwater community tank.

    Corydoras catfish stay small and love to hang out at the bottom of the tank, digging through the substrate to look for food. They are schooling fish, so keep them in a group of 4 or more to see them at their confident best.

    26. Loaches

    Kuhli Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Pangio, Botia, Sewellia, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1- 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 86ยฐF (depending on species)
    • pH: 6 – 7.5

    Loaches are another favorite fish in the aquarium hobby. These goofy bottom-dwellers are pretty diverse, ranging from the small, eel-like kuhli loach to the large, shark-shaped clown loach. Loaches make great clean-up fishes, and they tend to be very peaceful in community tanks.

    Loaches are well-known for their snail-killing abilities, so this is one fish to avoid if you enjoy keeping inverts!

    27. Plecos

    Common Pleco in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus, Panaque, Hypostomus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy-Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 2 inches – 2 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Plecos are also known as suckermouth catfish. These fish are built like tanks, with tough scales for armor and large shark-like fins. Most species have natural colors which they use for camouflage on the river bottom, although some have bold, striped and spotted markings.

    There are over 500 varieties of plecos in the aquarium hobby, ranging from small and beginner-friendly to expert-only, so you can bet there’s a perfect pleco for you!

    28. Catfish

    Pictus Catfish Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Pimelodus, Synodontis, Kryptopterus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 2 inches – several feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5

    There are over 3000 known freshwater catfish species in the world, and many of them make great aquarium subjects! These whiskered bottom dwellers come in many shapes and sizes, from 1-inch corydoras to man-sized predators from murky waters.

    The larger catfish are usually carnivorous species that eat other fish. This means you need to be pretty careful about choosing smaller fish as tankmates, or you’ll start to notice them disappear!

    Popular aquarium species include the synodontis and Pictus catfish, as well as the cories and plecos mentioned above in this post. Many of the catfish sold in aquarium stores grow way too big for most home aquariums, so make sure you research their adult size before taking them home.

    29. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray
    • Scientific Name: Potamotrygon spp.
    • Care Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 1 foot +
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.6

    Freshwater stingrays are awesome pets for experienced fish keepers with plenty of space. These flat members of the shark family need an extra large tank or a shallow indoor pond to provide the space they need. Stingrays are potentially dangerous animals, although injuries are rare.

    The smallest freshwater stingrays are about a foot across, but some species reach truly gigantic proportions! These fish also need excellent water quality and quality filtration, so they are best left to the experts.

    30. Freshwater Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina, Neocaridina, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1 – 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 76ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5

    Ok, so freshwater shrimp are not technically fish, but they are still some of the coolest animals you can keep in a fish tank! These fascinating crustaceans come in all sorts of colors and breeds.

    Freshwater shrimp do best in a tank with plenty of aquatic plants just like their natural habitat, and they can be kept with some small freshwater aquarium fish species. However, most fish will eat freshwater shrimp, so choose their tankmates carefully.

    FAQs

    What Is The Most Popular?

    The goldfish is the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. These awesome cool-water fish have a rich history in the fish-keeping hobby, dating back centuries. Today they are as popular as ever and they come in a jaw-dropping variety of shapes, colors, and fin types.

    Are There Tropical Freshwater?

    Most freshwater aquarium fish are tropical species for good reason. The tropical regions of the world have the greatest diversity of fish, as well as the most exotic and colorful species.

    What’s The Difference Between Both?

    Tropical fish are the species that come from areas near the equator where it is always warm. There are tropical saltwater and freshwater fish. Tropical freshwater fish are very popular aquarium fish, they just need a heater to keep the water warm.

    Which Is The Easiest To Take Care Of?

    Guppies are probably the easiest fish to care for. These hardy fish do not have any special care requirements and they get along great with other peaceful community fish.

    How Long Do They Live In A Home Aquarium?

    Freshwater fish have different lifespans depending on their species and the quality of life you give them. Some African Killifish never live more than a year because they have evolved to complete their life cycle in temporary waterholes. Others, like the goldfish, can live for over 15 years with good care.

    Final Thoughts

    I know, choosing the perfect species for a freshwater fish aquarium can be tough. It’s always best to research and choose your fish before you start shopping though, rather than making any hasty decisions. I hope you find your next fish from this list, and if you didn’t, maybe a bucket list species for a future tank!

    What is your favorite aquarium fish species? Comment below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.