AquariumStoreDepot

Tag: Freshwater

  • Green Aquarium Water –  4 Causes (And 7 Fixes)

    Green Aquarium Water – 4 Causes (And 7 Fixes)

    Imagine the crystal clear blue waters of the Caribbean teeming with life and color. Now place that against your murky, sea-monster-green home aquarium where you can only make out the shadows of fish. Something’s not right here.

    Aquarium water shouldn’t be green. Freshwater or saltwater, aquarium water should be clear–with a slight sparkle if you have LED lights! Green aquarium water is ugly and can make it difficult to enjoy your fish, plants, and invertebrates. In severe cases, it can also start to affect the ability of your plants to photosynthesize.

    Key Takeaways

    • Green aquarium water is ugly but usually not harmful to aquatic life.
    • The main causes behind green discoloration in a fish tank are lighting issues, overfeeding, overstocking, or poor aquarium maintenance.
    • Greenish water can be cured by resolving these problems, installing additional equipment, or planting live plants in freshwater tanks and growing more corals/macroalgae in reef tanks.

    Why Is Your Aquarium Water Green?

    What causes aquarium water, and how do you fix it?

    Green aquarium water is often caused by single-cell algae that free-swim in the water column. This planktonic algae is different from those you may find growing on glass or aquarium decorations but grows due to many of the same contributing factors.

    It can be near impossible to tell exactly which type of single-cell algae you’re dealing with when you have green water1. Luckily, the specific species doesn’t matter too much. It is safe to assume that you are dealing with a kind of phytoplankton, most commonly dinoflagellates.

    In order to make your water go from swampy green to crystal clear, you need to understand what’s causing the algae to grow.

    Reasons Your Aquarium Water Is Green

    Although a single-celled species, this algae growth is caused by the same factors that influence macroalgae growth. This includes lighting issues, overfeeding, overstocking, and overall poor tank maintenance.

    Green Water in Aquarium

    1. Lighting Issues

    Aquarium lighting is hard to get right but we’ve certainly come a long way from fluorescent light bulbs. Today, many aquarium lights give complete control to the user in terms of intensity, spectrum, and photoperiod. All of these parameters are customizable for the best plant and coral growth.

    The problem is that algae growth hasn’t changed over the years. Algae still love light and will grow whenever and wherever they can when light is available.

    Lighting can contribute to algae growth in several ways. The first way is intensity. High lighting intensity is needed for good plant and coral growth. However, if there is excessive light or the speed of organism growth doesn’t match the strength of the light, then algae can start to outcompete the other photo-dependent creatures in the tank. Sudden increases in light can also increase algae growth as plants need time to acclimate to stronger conditions.

    Another way tank lighting affects green water is due to the spectrum emitted, or the different wavelengths of energy that are transmitted from the aquarium light to the photosynthetic parts of the plant or coral. The problem is that different photosynthetic species absorb different wavelengths of energy, meaning that plants and corals thrive under different spectrum settings from algae. It can take some trial and error to find the right tank light settings that allow for plant growth instead of algae growth.

    Lastly, photoperiod can greatly influence the appearance of green aquarium water. A long photoperiod is one of the leading causes of green water along with excess nutrients, which we’ll talk about more later.

    Photoperiods vary from tank to tank based on the aquatic plants and corals being kept. In general, hobbyists keep their tank lights on for anywhere between 7 to 10 hours. This gives enough time for plants to make and store food, which contributes to healthy growth.

    However, plants can’t fulfill photosynthetic processes to their full extent for longer-than-normal periods. As a result, algae become opportunistic and outcompetes other photosynthetic organisms for the leftover available light energy.

    Another important factor to keep in mind is that natural light will contribute to green aquarium water. This may be the result of a nearby window. Natural light has a very different spectrum from controllable tank lighting, allowing unwanted wavelengths to feed algae. Direct sunlight can also contribute to warming the tank, which further fuels green water algae.

    2. Overfeeding

    Most hobbyists are guilty of overfeeding their fish. The truth is that fish don’t need to eat that much food and a lot of it goes wasted. This excess is left to rot at the bottom of the tank until it is converted into nutrients or manually removed.

    Another problem that comes along with overfeeding is the quality of the food. Many unknowing hobbyists pick foods that are inexpensive. Unfortunately, many of these foods have poor nutritional value with lots of filler ingredients. These filler ingredients don’t get completely digested by fish and are mixed back into the aquarium water; phosphate levels from these foods are especially likely to affect green water algae reproduction rates.

    Leftover and uneaten food lead to excess nutrients that quickly cause green water algae to thrive.

    3. Overstocking

    Similarly, overstocking can also cause algae to bloom in your aquarium.

    Green Water in Tank

    A surplus of fish and invertebrates means more waste that needs to be processed. In balanced aquariums, fish waste is effectively broken down and processed by beneficial bacteria. When there is too much waste available, bacteria are overwhelmed, and nutrients are left to accumulate in the form of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.

    In extreme cases, high levels of ammonia can stop the nitrogen cycle from happening altogether. This is deadly to fish and a much bigger problem than unpleasant green aquarium water.

    4. Poor Tank Maintenance

    Free-floating algae bloom when there are imbalances within the aquarium. One of the main ways aquarium hobbyists keep their fish tanks running smoothly is by performing regular tank maintenance. This includes regular water changes, gravel vacuums, and filter upkeep.

    Python Cleaner

    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

    Buy On Amazon

    This might sound like a lot of work, but minimal maintenance will ensure that you never experience green water in your freshwater or saltwater aquarium.

    Most aquariums need to be cleaned once a week or once every other week. Some hobbyists get by with doing maintenance only once a month, but this can only be achieved once you know the ins and outs of your system. In general, a 10-25% water change is needed weekly or biweekly.

    When performing a water change, it is important to know the water parameters of the new water that is added. Many freshwater hobbyists use tap water as it contains the necessary minerals needed for a healthy tank. Unfortunately, tap water also contains a lot of unknowns, which can unknowingly boost nitrate and phosphate levels, leading to unwanted free-floating algae.

    If your tap water has poor water quality, then you will need to find another source. For the best control, marine hobbyists use RO/DI water that can then be customized to their preference.

    During water changes, the substrate should be vacuumed. Food and waste accumulate on the bottom of the tank, which can lead to high nitrate and phosphate levels. Kicking up the substrate too much at once can also upset water parameters, so it’s important to only do one section at a time at first.

    Every now and then, the filtration system should also be cleaned. Some hobbyists gently rinse their filter media weekly, but this can be done on a monthly basis; handling filtration media can disturb and damage beneficial bacteria, which could potentially lead to green water outbreaks.

    Is This Harmful To Fish?

    Green aquarium water looks bad. While it might seem like your fish is struggling to survive in a cloud of green, green water is generally harmless to fish.

    Free-floating algae won’t kill your fish and many fish and invertebrates naturally live in green-colored ecosystems; you won’t see crystal-clear aquarium water in the wild!

    However, free-floating algae bloom can cause oxygen levels to dip, which could potentially cause fish to suffocate. While algae perform photosynthesis and create oxygen in the process, algae respire when light is not present and create carbon dioxide in exchange. This buildup, in addition to the carbon dioxide produced by fish and invertebrates, can prove to be deadly in extreme cases.

    It should also be noted that plants love light. In especially green water, they may struggle to receive enough light necessary to grow and live. Stunted plant growth means less nutrient uptake, which further contributes to the growth of the algae.

    Big picture, green water in a fish tank is usually indicative of a greater underlying problem. These are the true problems that could potentially kill your fish. In general, this means severe imbalances in water quality.

    Can This Ever Be Good for the Tank?

    Yes! In fact, some hobbyists deliberately grow free-floating algae in their fish tanks to cultivate a natural ecosystem.

    Algae is considered a primary producer, which means that it’s at the bottom of the food chain. Bacteria and other microorganisms use algae as food. These are then eaten by other organisms, including infusoria, which eventually become desirable food for small fish and fry.

    How To Fix Your Tank Problem

    It can be hard to tell when aquarium water is turning green. One day your fish tank is crystal clear, the next, it’s murky, and then you have a full-on green water problem. This transformation can happen in just a few days, so it’s important that you check on your aquarium daily.

    Luckily, fixing a green algae problem is pretty straightforward once you’re able to identify the underlying problem: lighting issues, overfeeding, overstocking, or poor tank maintenance. A few other methods of treating green aquarium water are using additional equipment, chemical treatments, and adding live aquatic plants.

    1. Resolving Lighting Issues

    Aquarium light fixtures are the best they’ve ever been, but they only work their best when they’re calibrated for your individual system. This takes some trial and error, but a good light setting and schedule are crucial for maintaining and preventing green aquarium water.

    If a green algae bloom has already taken hold of your fish tank, reassess how many hours your light is on. If you’re towards the bottom of the recommended 7 to 10-hour range, then check the intensity and spectrum. Recalibrate the light for the specific species you are growing. Failing lighting can also affect efficiency.

    While you’re at it, check your tank’s surroundings. Ensure that there is no direct sunlight hitting the aquarium and that ambient lighting is kept to a minimum.

    2. Limit Feedings

    Overfeeding is easy to fix, though it may pull at some heartstrings–you do not need to feed your fish every time you walk past the tank!

    Instead, invest in high-quality food that will be fully digested. At the same time, reduce portion sizes. If your fish are still hungry, feed them several smaller portions throughout the day.

    Remove all uneaten food after 5 minutes.

    3. Compensating For Overstocking

    It happens. You get wrapped up in the excitement of buying fish that you take home a few too many. While this isn’t ideal, you need to give all your fish the best life possible.

    If possible, rehome the fish. Some pet stores might take back the fish, but there are many online communities that can connect fellow hobbyists.

    If rehoming the fish isn’t possible, then a larger filtration system may be installed. Additional filtration media will help compensate for the increased waste entering the system. Providing more water flow in the form of powerheads and air stones will also help keep debris from settling while facilitating gas exchange.

    Editor’s Choice!
    Eheim Air Pump

    The Quietest Air Pump

    Powerful, quiet, and German engineered. Even comes with an air stone! The best aquarium air pump you can buy today!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    4. Achieving Perfect Water Parameters

    The truth is those perfect water parameters don’t exist, and you should never change a healthy tank for one that looks good on paper. The most important part of tank parameters is having 0 ppm ammonia and 0 ppm nitrite, as these compounds can be deadly. Nitrate and phosphate levels should be kept to a minimum but are needed to facilitate a functioning system.

    Water parameters can be maintained through regular tank maintenance and water changes with reliable source water. Debris and other organics should be removed weekly with an aquarium siphon to prevent nutrient buildup. Water parameters should then be tested weekly to ensure that balance and stability are achieved.

    5. Additional Equipment

    It usually isn’t necessary to purchase additional equipment to deal with a green algae problem, but there are some added benefits to installing new equipment. One of the best pieces of equipment you can purchase to combat greenish water is an ultraviolet (UV) sterilizer.

    UV sterilizers polish water. This device uses UV light to penetrate DNA, RNA, and proteins to destroy most pathogens, viruses, bacteria, and algae. UV sterilizers are very commonly used in pond settings that are susceptible to algal blooms and infestations. In the aquarium, UV sterilizers can be very helpful for combatting small issues concerning diseases and suspended algae in the water column.

    Budget Option
    Green Killing Machine

    Budget Option

    A great way to get clarification level UV sterilization for a great price. Very effective against green water

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The problem is that UV sterilizers are not the cheapest pieces of aquarium equipment. Quality ones retail for at least $100, with prices increasing depending on the size required. The UV light also needs to be regularly replaced. It’s important to keep in mind that a UV sterilizer will also take up valuable space in the aquarium display or in external filtration.

    6. Chemical Treatment

    Chemical treatment is not recommended for treating a green algae problem. Chemicals simply cover up the problem and don’t address it as its root.

    The only chemicals we recommend are those that bolster the fish’s immunity and overall fish tank health during stressful periods.

    7. Add Live Plants

    Instead of harsh, difficult-to-dose chemicals, simply add live plants to your tank. For reef tanks, add easy-to-keep corals or macroalgae; a refugium can also help to export excess nutrients.

    Live plants provide a plethora of benefits to the freshwater aquarium. Not only will aquatic plants help tackle green algae problems, but they’ll continue to feed the system with fresh oxygen, food, and shelter.

    If you’ve never kept a planted tank before, the initial thought of it can be scary. It is true that most plants require a better-than-average aquarium light, but LED lights are very affordable and low maintenance. If you can’t take that plunge right now, floating plants and other low-maintenance species can easily be kept under lower light settings.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    No matter which species of plant you decide to go with, aquarium plants will help correct a green water problem and keep the tank healthy.

    Final Thoughts

    A fish tank can turn green in just a few days. While this sudden change is definitely a cause for concern, the algae that cause the discoloration is unlikely to harm fish or invertebrates. However, there is some threat to aquatic life if excess nutrients are the underlying problem.

    Green aquarium water is mostly caused by lighting issues, overfeeding, overstocking, and poor tank maintenance. The hardest part of correcting a green water problem is identifying the root of the problem. Luckily, the discoloration can be fixed by resolving those issues or by adding additional equipment or live plants.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Why Do Fish Jump Out Of Water – 8 Reasons Why (And How TO Prevent It)

    Why Do Fish Jump Out Of Water – 8 Reasons Why (And How TO Prevent It)

    Once you find a dried-out fish in front of your aquarium, you will do anything you can to stop it from happening again. Unfortunately, this happens to most aquarium keepers at least once in their careers. If you’re lucky, you’ll be there to see your fish jump out. But most times, you won’t be able to find your fish swimming in the tank and will end your search on the floor instead.

    Why do fish jump out of water? There are many reasons why fish jump. Some of these are preventable, while others are instinctual. Smaller fish that live towards the top layers of the water column is much more likely to jump out of the water than others, which is important to keep in mind when stocking the aquarium.

    Key Takeaways

    • It’s not every day you see a flying fish, and hopefully, you’ll never see a fish leaping out of your aquarium. This behavior can be an indicator that something is wrong in the aquarium.
    • If your fish jump out of their aquarium, this can mean there is an imbalance in the system.
    • There are many ways to prevent your fish from jumping out of the aquarium, though some species are naturally inclined to display this behavior.

    Why Do Fish Jump Out Of Water?

    If you had to search this question, then it’s likely too late for your fish. But it’s a great question to ask as a fish jumping out of water can indicate some major problems in the aquarium. This includes stress, bullying, and your fish being frightened by outside factors. At the same time, some species of fish are just natural jumpers, no matter how your tank is set up.

    8 Reasons

    1. Stress

    Stress is the number one reason why fish jump out of the aquarium, mostly from water parameter issues. However, illness and maintenance stress can also have an effect.

    2. Water Issues
    Green Water in Aquarium

    While we love the fish tank hobby, these conditions aren’t natural for fish. Many species migrate hundreds of miles in between the wet and dry months, sometimes even between freshwater and brackish conditions. We simply can’t recreate these changing environments in the aquarium though most species have adapted well to a more confined and stable space of living.

    That being said, when conditions become inopportune, the fish will try to leave. This can result in the fish jumping out of the tank in hopes of finding a more favorable environment.

    The leading cause of a jumping fish is poor water quality, namely due to ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH, or water temperature. If ammonia or nitrite levels are allowed to get too high, the water can become toxic; high nitrate levels can also become uncomfortable for fish over time. Swinging pH levels and water temperatures can also cause your fish to become unable to regulate its body, leaving only one way out.

    3. Illness
    Freshwater Ich

    Stress from disease and illness is another common reason for fish jumping out of the aquarium. Many skin parasites cause fish to develop sores and lesions across their body which can be itchy and painful. In response, fish ‘flash’ or quickly twitch randomly, sometimes against objects in the aquarium. Unfortunately, this random motion can cause them to jump right out of the top of the fish tank.

    Some diseases and illnesses also infect the gills. This can make it difficult for dissolved oxygen to be absorbed into the bloodstream, causing the fish to feel like it’s suffocating. In an attempt to find better conditions, the fish may jump out of the aquarium.

    4. Maintenance Stress

    Another reason fish jump out of the aquarium–through one you’re likely to catch in time–is due to maintenance stress. This includes times when your hands are in the tank, like when trimming plants or doing water changes. Luckily, fish will get used to your presence over time, especially if you follow a schedule. If you’re too quick with your motions though, fish might get scared and look for a quick escape route.

    5. Bullying

    Some aquarium fish jump out of the water to escape predators and other bigger fish. This is especially true if a schooling fish species is kept alone outside of a school.

    It is natural for fish to chase each other every now and then, even fish of the same species. However, problems can occur when this chasing turns into harassment or bullying. If your fish doesn’t have a good defense mechanism, then it’s left to shelter in hiding places or escape the predator altogether by jumping across the water surface and out of the tank.

    Not enough open space to swim. It is also possible for fish to jump out of their tank if space is limited. This usually happens in addition to bullying or poor water quality, but fish have been known to seek more space outside the confines of their tank. If your fish look cramped, then they probably are. Fix it before it’s too late!

    6. They Get Scared

    Why do fish jump out of the water when they’re scared? It seems counterintuitive.

    Many fish kept in the aquarium hobby are not predators, meaning they are prey that are reactive to their surroundings; when danger is near, they swim away. There isn’t any way to ensure that your fish will never get scared, but there are ways to make them more comfortable within their environment.

    1. Keep schooling species in groups. The better majority of tropical fish species require being kept in small groups. In the wild, these groups are used as protection from predators, providing safety in numbers. The bigger the group, the safer and less reactive your fish will feel.
    2. Limit activity around the outside of the tank. Aquarium fish get used to their surroundings. Change isn’t often, so whenever something happens out of the ordinary, fish will react. This is especially true for stimuli outside of the tank which can appear as shadows and bright lights outside the aquarium.
    3. Use friendly lighting. Unfortunately, many aquarium lights, especially freshwater ones, do not provide a ramp-up/down setting. This is when the light slowly turns on or off in a set period of time, allowing for a more subtle awakening and less chance of a jumping fish.

    7. Not Enough Food

    Pellet Foods

    In the wild, fish migrate depending on food availability and for spawning grounds. In a fish tank, food needs to be supplied to keep fish and invertebrates alive. Some aquarium keepers have had luck keeping some species alive in closed conditions, where fish and invertebrates rely on each other and plants as a source of food, but this is difficult to achieve.

    Certain species, like Otocinclus, refuse common aquarium foods though and rely solely on the algae that naturally grows in the tank. While most fish will starve before they jump out of the tank, there is always the possibility that they try to venture into new areas for food.

    8. Water Flow Is Too Strong

    This isn’t likely to happen, but too much or overly strong water movement can push fish right out of the tank. Fish species that swim directly under the water’s surface are most prone to this as they get directly hit by filter and powerhead returns.

    Plan ahead and coordinate where your fish like to swim with where water will circulate.

    How To Prevent Jumping

    If you’re reading this before you’ve had a fish jump out of your tank, then congrats! You’re one step ahead of making sure your fish live a safe, healthy, and happy life.

    Luckily, it is pretty easy to make your aquarium safe for all fish. Here are a few ways to stop fish from jumping out of your tank.

    1. Provide A Safe Environment

    A good tank setup cannot be understated. Lots of thought goes into aquascaping, and for a good reason.

    There are a few checkpoints you need to hit when setting up an aquarium. Inside the tank, you need to have a balance of available hiding spots and open swimming space. Fish need structure and shade to rest and to escape if they feel threatened by other fish. They also need plenty of open swimming space to stay enriched and to exercise.

    You also need to create a safe environment on the outside of the tank. A fish tank should be kept in a relatively calm and quiet location without flashing lights or loud sounds.

    2. Pick Compatible Tank Mates

    Serpae Tetra Fish

    Picking compatible tank mates is important for long-term aquarium success. You do not want a predator/prey situation where fish get eaten, are stressed out, or end up jumping out of the aquarium. Try to keep community fish with other community species. Keep predatory and aggressive fish with other predators.

    3. Get An Aquarium Lid

    The easiest way to keep fish inside the tank is to get an aquarium lid. Over the past decade, aquarium lids have fallen out of favor due to their clunky appearance, advances in tank lighting, and a better understanding of gas exchange.

    There are many benefits to using an aquarium lid, like lessening evaporation rates, increasing heating ability, and, most importantly, keeping fish inside the tank. For the most part, even if fish happen to jump and hit the lid, they can make a full recovery.

    There are a few drawbacks to using an aquarium lid, though. Apart from their clunky appearance, aquarium lids can limit the type of lighting fixture that can be used on the tank. This becomes especially problematic for saltwater hobbyists that need strong overhead lights. To keep fish in the tank but also get the best lighting possible, many saltwater enthusiasts use fish-safe nets that keep most sized fish from escaping; nets need to be reinforced when keeping larger fish.

    For freshwater fish, the higher-end lids are made of low-iron glass.

    4. Set Your Lights On A Schedule

    Consistency is key for freshwater and saltwater aquariums. Any change can throw your system off balance, which can take weeks or months to correct. One of the most understated parameters that should be regulated is lighting.

    Lighting should be predictable for fish. This allows them to have a set sleep/wake cycle that keeps stress down. To help make this transition even smoother, a light with a programmed dimmer or an external dimmer can be used to ramp up and down into daylight or moonlight.

    As previously mentioned, ambient lighting and sudden flashes of light outside the aquarium should be regulated.

    5. Keep Water Quality High

    The best way to keep your fish from jumping out of your aquarium is by keeping water quality stable. Keep in mind that having good water quality does not mean that your water parameters match ideal standards. Instead, water quality should be in the ranges that work best for your aquarium.

    That being said, poor water quality, like high ammonia levels, should be addressed immediately to keep fish healthy. These levels can easily be checked with a reliable test kit.

    An aquarium heater should also be used to keep the water temperature stable.

    6. Plan For A Larger Tank

    We understand that a large tank is a big commitment. You need to pick the tank size that’s best for you. However, if you pick a small tank with the intention of upgrading in the near future, we suggest getting the big tank right from the start.

    Current USA Serene 65

    Current’s Serene line offers a unique opportunity for Freshwater Aquarists. Comes with a filter, stand, light. You can even pick an aquascaping package!

    Click For Best Price Buy On SWA

    There are many pros and cons to having both small and big tanks, but it’s better to understock a big tank than to overstock a small tank. If you do end up with a smaller tank, then make sure to stock accordingly. In general, saltwater fish species need much more space than their freshwater counterparts.

    Known Freshwater Jumpers

    Many freshwater fish live at the top of the water column. This is common behavior for fish that catch food directly on the surface of the water or insects that fly above. Some fish even venture out of the water to lay their eggs on nearby vegetation. Other species have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air in case water conditions deteriorate.

    Lake Tebera Rainbowfish

    No matter the reason they’re at the surface of the water, these species are very capable to jump out of the aquarium. Some of these aquarium fish species include:

    • White Cloud Minnows (Tanichthys albonubes)
    • Rainbowfish (Melanotaeniidae family)
    • Hatchetfish (Gasteropelecidae family)
    • African Butterflyfish (Pantodon buchholzi)
    • Freshwater Eels and Loaches
    • Corydoras Catfish (Corydoras spp.)
    • Betta Fish (Betta splendens)
    • Silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bircurrhosum)

    One of the most famous freshwater jumper fish outside of the aquarium hobby is the Asian carp (Cyprinus carpio), also known as the jumping carp. These fish have been known to jump into boats while hunting for zooplankton and other organisms on the water surface!

    Known Saltwater Jumpers

    Saltwater fish are less likely to be found leaping out of the water in saltwater ecosystems due to the depth of marine environments. However, estuaries and lagoons are home to many fish and insects that create diverse ecosystems loaded with food at the surface.

    Melanurus Wrasse in Reef Tank

    Many of the saltwater fish that leap out of the aquarium are timid, streamlined fish that don’t mean to leave the tank water. These fish include:

    • Firefish (Nemateleotris magnifica)
    • Triggerfish (Balistidae family)
    • Rabbitfish (Siganidae family)
    • Wrasses (Labridae family)
    • Saltwater Eels

    That being said, there are a few accomplished wild jumper species in the saltwater world that are utterly unique and powerful. This includes the flying fish (Exocoetidae family), which uses wings to glide above the surface of the water. Another fish you might not even consider to be a fish, the great white shark (Carcharodon carcharias) is a voracious predator that uses its large body to propel up and out of the water to attack prey1.

    Obviously, you don’t need to worry about your great white escaping your tank, though!

    Final Thoughts

    Why do fish jump out of the water? For many reasons, some of the immediate concern and others not so much. Some fish, especially those that stay in the upper regions of the water column, have an instinctual behavior to jump. This could be in an attempt to catch food or lay eggs. In the aquarium, this could be a sign that something is wrong with the tank water or the aquarium setup.

    Luckily, it is relatively easy to prevent fish from jumping out of the aquarium. Unfortunately, this is a lesson most hobbyists need to learn at least once.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Severum Cichlid – A Complete Care Guide

    Severum Cichlid – A Complete Care Guide

    Welcome to our aquarium blog, fellow fishkeeper ๐ŸŸ!

    Have you seen a Discus fish and wished you could own them, but concerned about its sensitivity? There is a fish out there that looks just as good, gets just as large, and is pretty hardy.

    That fish is called the Severum Cichlid, and while it is called the poor person’s Cichlid in the hobby – I would call it the sensible aquarist’s Cichlid.

    While these fish are relatively mellow, they get large and have certain tank requirements, and are limited in the type of tankmates you can keep. With the knowledge tidbits I’ll offer today, you will be ready to embark on keeping your first Severum successfully.

    Let’s learn all we can about this beautiful fish. Time to dive in!

    Key Takeaways

    • Severum cichlids are large, docile, and wonderful species to introduce to a home tank 
    • They are one of the very few Cichlid species that are partial vegetarians and frugivores
    • They are beginner-friendly and do well in a variety of tank conditions
    • While their temperament is on the peaceful side, they may eat fish that fit in their mouths

    An Overview

    Scientific NameHeros severus
    Common NamesSeverum Cichlid, Banded Cichlid, Rainbow Severum Cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginOrinoco and upper Rio Negro basins, South America
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan7 to 10 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelBottom and mid
    Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
    Temperature Range75 Fยฐ to 84 Fยฐ
    Water Hardness4 to 6 dH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layers
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks (with large enough fish)
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    What Is A Severum Cichlid

    Severum Cichlids have been in the aquarium hobby since the 1800s1 and the reasons are apparent: their pleasant personalities, large size, and unique and attractive color patterns have made them very popular to aquarists.

    These freshwater fish species are scientifically named Heros Severus while commonly known as Severum Cichlids, Rainbow Severum Cichlids, and Banded Cichlids.

    Apart from adding a diversity of colors to your aquarium, these fish can are one of the rare large fish that can actually be considered community fish (as long as the fish housed aren’t small enough to fit their mouths)

    Origin And Habitat

    Severum Cichlids, also labeled as a Poor Man’s Discus, hail from the upper Orinoco and upper Rio Negro Basins in South America.

    They were first sighted in the 1800s by an Austrian zoologist and ichthyologist named Johann Jakob Heckel. In their natural habitat, they inhabit slow-moving and vegetated areas with underwater trees and plants.

    Appearance

    Finding a fish that exhibits a beautiful spectrum of unique colors and patterns, pleasant personality traits, and the ability to bring liveliness to a traditional home aquarium is not impossible anymore.

    Severums Fish

    Severum Cichlids fit well in the showcase fish role. These Cichlid Fish come in different varieties, and each variety has a special color pattern that helps it stand out.

    Generally, Severum Cichlids have large oval-shaped compressed bodies with a golden hue dispersed over their entire frames. These bands are visible along the sides and are more vivid in juveniles. Adult Severum Cichlids feature duller stripes. The fry feature consistent gold colors that become flecked with burnt orange spots across a large part of their bodies and fins. There are almost 8 bands present on their bodies, which go dull as the fish ages.

    But awkwardly enough, noticing these bands in fry is hard. You can only see that clearly once the juveniles hit maturity.

    Severum Cichlids feature sharp anal and dorsal fins that look rather yellow. Their pectoral fins also look pointed. The first set of fins narrows down to a striking point. And in most fish, these fins extend past the caudal fin, giving them a round-shaped look.

    Apart from yellow dorsal fins, they have yellow eyes and beautiful tails with a combination of a white base and specks of yellow.

    These fish are sold in fish sizes when they are small, but they can grow to an impressive size if you properly look after them.

    Since there are different types, it can be slightly hard to recognize the original one. To identify which one is real, look at the greenish-hued body combined with a golden-yellow underbelly. Nowadays, you can see alternations in their color patterns that are obtained by home breeding.

    These fish are well-known for their subtle orange. These fish tend to get more intense in color as they mature.

    Depending on what species you have, you can expect to see changed color morphs, as well as stripes. Some fish have large and vertical stripes, while others only exhibit extremely contrasting spots that sit perfectly with their yellowish-golden base.

    And unlike African and South American Cichlids, Severum Cichlids look flattened and are tall with a vertically rounded shape. The reason they are called poor man’s discus lies in the fact that they mimic the profile of the more pricey discus fish.

    To differentiate males from females, look at the size and markings on their gills. The male Severum Cichlid is usually larger and may develop a nuchal hump and extensions to its anal and dorsal fins. This makes the overall appearance more prominent compared to the female Severum.

    Another difference between males and females is the dark spot visible on the female’s dorsal fin. Females also lack patterning on their heads.

    Now it’s time to talk about the five most common varieties of Severum Cichlids!

    5 Common Varieties

    In the aquarium hobby, there are different types of Severum Cichlids. Introducing any type to your tank can be a good change from the wild Severum Cichlids that have subdued colored bodies.

    Heros Severus

    This type of Severum Cichlid is the most recognized compared to others. It has yellow and golden spots, a flat body with pointed dorsal fins, and a tail. They sometimes feature dark stripes down their length and make a beautiful addition to dull aquariums.

    Heros Severus

    These fish can be semi-aggressive around some specific species. Usually, they do well in a community tank, so make sure you select the right tank mates for them (we discuss tankmates later in this post).

    Heros efasciatus

    Heros efasciatus, Redhead Severum, or Red Shoulder Severum are the same fish. This type isn’t as common , but it is incredibly beautiful in its own right. They feature a golden base and bright red spots behind their gill covers, and a vibrant green color as well. 

    Heros efasciatus

    They are usually available as wild-caught, which makes them more sensitive to tank-bred species. Because they are in high demand, they command a high price tag at the local fish store.

    Heros liberifer

    Fish of this type feature a plain glistening white base that can sometimes look red or orange.

    They have prominent horizontal deep black stripes. Unlike Heros Severus, they are more aggressive and can give a tough time to their tank mates.

    Heros spurius

    This type of Severum Cichlid is duller than the others mentioned previously. They have hues and stripes visible all across their bodies, including their fins and tails. They can grow up to 7 inches in length.

    Heros Notatus

    You can find different color varieties with this type of Severum Cichlid. They can be purple, orange, green, and yellow. They are known for their spotted bodies. This Severum Cichlid has spots all over their bodies, fins, and tails.

    Author's Note: Green Severum Cichlids are the most common and easily found type in pet stores. The Gold variety is the second most common type of Severum Cichlids found in the aquarium trade.

    Lifespan

    The average lifespan of a Severum Cichlid is around 5 years. With proper care, they can live as long as 10 years in an aquarium.

    This makes them a perfect pet for those fish owners who want to spend more time with their pets and establish a stronger connection with their aquatic friends.

    Average Size

    The Severum Cichlid is known to grow to an impressive size both in the wild and in a home tank.

    The Severum Cichlid can go as large as 8 inches. You need to focus on its diet, tank conditions, water quality, and what type of tank mates it has around it to ensure healthy growth. It might suffer from stunted growth as a result of stress. So, ensure there’s nothing in the tank that can stress your pet out.

    Care

    Severum Cichlid care is actually pretty basic compared to other large fish species. If you’re an ambitious beginner, and you understand their temperament, and what things fit them best in a home tank, you can have a great experience with them.

    The Severum Cichlid is a hardy fish capable of adapting to harsh conditions in the wild. Some fish cannot survive what they can peacefully put up with. But it doesn’t mean you should ignore regular maintenance and a proper tank setup.

    Severum Cichlid Fish

    The Severum Cichlid is typically a peaceful fish. Unlike other Cichlid species that can fight to the death over food or maintain control over their territory, they remain relatively calm.

    However, they can act potentially aggressively around other fish. It can be territorial aggression or the overwhelming effect of attacking the smaller fish. Once they show aggression or signs of stress, make sure you separate them from the cause of stress. The Severum Cichlid can fall prey to diseases because of high levels of stress.

    Providing good care and a safe environment will create a strong preventive shield from diseases.

    Aquarium Setup

    Severum Cichlids get large and need an appropriately sized home to make themselves comfortable. A large environment with clean water will help stress low and your fish healthy.

    When it comes to setting up an aquarium, you should think about the Severums habitat in the wild. These fish come from murky waters that have low water flow. Knowing this, we do not want high water flow for our gentle giants. They are surface swimmers, so open space is ideal for them.

    Open space will get them to swim around, and a large space will keep aggression down. These fish, which gentle in nature can get territorial. A crowded tank will lead to disputes and fighting. Rocks are preferred over driftwood as these fish like to dig. They will stay active throughout the day.

    Tank Size

    Severum Cichlids don’t grow overnight. But while setting up their tank, considering their growth rate can help decide the size of the tank. Usually, a 55-gallon tank does best for a Severum Cichlid. Feel free to get a larger tank because it’s always better to invest in a spacious tank for your pet.

    Current USA Serene 65

    Current’s Serene line offers a unique opportunity for Freshwater Aquarists. Comes with a filter, stand, light. You can even pick an aquascaping package!

    Click For Best Price Buy On SWA

    Baby Severum Cichlids grow half an inch a month. Once they get to a certain size, you will see a decline in their growth rate. It takes them 2 years to become 8 inches long. Depending on the number of species you have, you can go for a 70-100 gallon tank for fully grown Severum Cichlids and other fish of similar size.

    Water Parameters

    Severum Cichlids live in tropical water areas of South America. To provide them with the healthiest environment, maintaining the right water parameters is necessary.

    Keep the water temperature between 75 Fยฐ to 85 Fยฐ. Anything below this range might stress out your pet. The range can vary if you want to breed your fish though.

    For pH, keep it between 6.0 to 7.0. Make sure pH levels remain stable. Any drastic changes can harm your fish. As for water hardness, I recommend staying between 4 to 15 dGH.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Facilitating regular water changes is a great way to maintain a healthy tank environment.

    A freshwater tank can accumulate several nutrients from waste, such as nitrites, nitrates, and ammonia. Fish waste will contaminate your water quality.

    It’s better to make regular water changes of up to 20% to ensure a healthy environment. You can also use a high-quality canister or hang-on-back filter to keep the water well-oxygenated.

    Author's Note: Severum Banded Cichlids often gasp for air at the surface when the oxygen levels are low. This often leads to high levels of distress in the fish. If your fish constantly repeats it, it's time to clean out the aquarium water.

    Lighting

    Lighting is not an issue when it comes to Severum Cichlids. They mostly stay active throughout the day and rest throughout the night. A mild exposure to natural lighting is great.  You can also use light LED lights to monitor their activities or to enhance their appearance.

    Aquatic Plants And Decoration

    Designing the interior of your Severum Cichlid freshwater tank is one of the most enjoyable aspects of the aquarium hobby.

    In the wild, they thrive in highly vegetated water and use plenty of hiding spaces to rest in.

    While designing their tank, you can use different live plants, plastic caves, and castle accessories. Adding driftwood and rock formations are also some good choices.

    This way, your fish will stay busy exploring different things and feeling at home.

    While the Severum Cichlid needs hideouts, it can be problematic for you to keep the decorative items in place. They have a tendency to dig below decorations. It is recommended to have them set at the tank glass bottom, so they don’t topple over if dug up.

    Live plants are a major challenge with Severums. While many guides you will find online will tell you there are some plants like Anubias and Hornwort that can survive, our experience tells us that this is typically not the case. Severums are best kept with aquarium rocks over live plants.

    Tank Maintenance

    Regular tank maintenance holds great value for the well-being of Severum Cichlid.

    Cichlids produce chunks of bioload. Apart from getting a good-sized canister filter, you should clean the tank every now and again to keep decorative items, the tank, and the underwater environment clean.

    Best Value
    Fluval Canister Filters

    Our Subscriber’s Choice

    Top name brand, Italian made, and updated design. The next gen Fluval Canisters are a best buy!

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    Here are some tank-cleaning tips to get you started:

    • Occasionally trim the plants and remove plant material from the tank.
    • Use aquarium water and a clean toothbrush to wash caves and other decorative items
    • Use an algae scrapper to clean off algae from the tank walls.

    Substrate

    Severum Cichlids tend to dig around a lot. They love to create hills and pits by moving sand. You don’t have to be too creative with layering the base since they will redecorate it anyway.

    I recommend using a fine sand substrate for the Severum tank. You can also use a little bit bigger grains but don’t good too large on the gravel as large gravel can injure these fish when they try to dig

    Pro Tip: In community tanks that need softer water. You can layer the top of the substrate. You can use Indian almond leaves or small clumps of peat moss. This will benefit water conditions. Using leaves will also help create the effect of their natural habitat. Also, make regular replacements as the debris deteriorates.

    Community Tank Mates

    Placing your Severum Cichlid with the right kind of tank mates will help in the long run. No beginner can afford frequent conflicts among fish. Not only that, incompatible tank mates can turn a healthy fish into a stressed one.

    Severum Cichlids are generally peaceful. But they habitually love colonizing the entire tank. You can prevent this by creating necessary barriers within the tank without curtailing their land and freedom to roam around.

    Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank

    For a Severum Cichlid tank, you should look for medium or larger mellow fish species that can make compatible tank mates.

    Here’s a list of some of the best species to consider.

    Poor Tank Mates

    Avoid larger and more aggressive fish species to pair up with Severum Cichlids. These aggressive tank mates should never be kept in the same tank as your Severum Cichlid.

    Green Terror Cichlid in Aquarium

    Unlike other Cichlid species, Severum Cichlids don’t realize they have the ability to defend themselves. Avoid these other species when it comes to Banded Cichlid tank mates:

    Breeding

    Breeding Cichlids is a wonderful experience as these fish will breed in pairs and will care for their fry. In order to pull it off, you will need to start up with several juvenile fish – at least to start out. They will need to grow up together until you see a couple pair up. That is your sign that a breeding pair is forming

    However, these Severum Cichlids are selective about who they decided to breed with. Keep them together and hope that they bond. It will usually take up to 6 months for cichlids to go from juveniles to forming as a pair. You will need to be patient and understand that this takes time.

    Once you have a breed, it’s time to set up the environment. Here is what you need to do:

    1. Obtain a separate tank to use for breeding the pair.
    2. Set the temperature higher – 78 – 81 degrees F to be exact
    3. Keep plenty of decor and hiding plants for comfort
    4. Feed the fish a well-balanced diet. A healthy fish will actively breed, so diet is key

    Once the pair do their thing, the eggs will hatch in about a week. Both parents will watch over the eggs and raise the fry together. Work with crushed flake food to feed the fry or use enriched hatch brine shrimp.

    Food and Diet

    The Severum Banded Cichlid is an omnivore. They are hardly picky and, therefore, will feast on anything you drop in their tank.

    To spice up their menu, feel free to go for high-quality herbivore and carnivore flakes.

    You can also feed them pellets, micro worms, earthworms, bloodworms, marine crustaceans, white mosquito larvae, brine shrimp, green vegetables, and even fruit.

    Don’t feed your pet beef heart or liver as they have fragile digestive systems and can fall ill from it.

    Common Health Problems

    Like any other fish, Common Severum Cichlid species can also fall prey to different diseases. You should always keep an eye out for common symptoms so that you can treat them on time.

    Here are some common diseases Severum Cichlids are susceptible to.

    Head and Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

    This disease is common in fish species raised in tanks with poor water quality. Other common reasons can be over-filtration with toxic chemicals, stress, vitamin deficiency, and poor diet.

    The most common symptom of this disease is a hole in the head of the fish

    It begins as small pits of receding skin around the fish’s head and lateral line and sometimes occurs on the unpaired fins. To treat this, simply isolate your pet, get water conditions fixed and supplement its diet with vitamin C, calcium, and phosphorus.

    Ich

    Ich is a very common fish disease. The presence of an external protozoan parasite typically causes this infection.

    Some common symptoms are:

    • Multiple small white spots on the fish’s body and gills
    • Frequent scrapping of the body against hard objects
    • Abnormal behavior

    FAQs

    Is Severum a hardy fish?

    Yes, Severum cichlids are very hardy. They can withstand harsh environmental conditions but still need proper tank conditions to thrive. If they are properly looked after, they can provide you with enjoyment for a very long time.

    Can Oscars and severums live together?

    Severum Cichlids are semi-aggressive. Some species can be on the more aggressive side, while others stay pretty composed. But their large size and toughness allow them to stand up to an Oscar. The behavior Severum Cichlids display in a tank shared with an Oscar is usually not problematic. But make sure there is no aggression from the other side as well.

    Closing Thoughts

    I hope you learned a lot about Severums from our article. They are an underrated fish, and in my opinion, the label of poor person’s cichlid doesn’t jive well with me. They stand on their own in an aquarium and make a settler showcase fish. Their gentle nature makes them one of the rare large fish that will tolerate tank mates and is hardy. Give them a chance, and they will shine and give you many years of joy.

    Have you kept Severums in the past? Let us know in the comments. Until next time!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Orange Fish – 9 Freshwater (and 7 Saltwater Species for Your Tank

    Orange Fish – 9 Freshwater (and 7 Saltwater Species for Your Tank

    The color orange is often described as a joyful and energetic shade. Those are two awesome qualities for any aquarium, and what better way to spice up your tank than by adding colorful orange fish? This article introduces 16 amazing orange fish that you can keep.

    Get ready; there’s some real eye candy in this article!

    Key Takeaways

    • There are many species of bright orange fish available in the aquarium trade.
    • Many species include yellow, green, and blue patterns, but solid orange fish are available.
    • Some orange aquarium fish are peaceful, but others are very aggressive and unsuitable for community tanks.
    • Consider tank size, parameters, and temperament before choosing an orange fish for your tank.

    Freshwater Orange Fish

    Who said freshwater fish species can’t be colorful? These 9 orange freshwater fish will look great in your home aquarium. Just don’t mix them all together. We got a YouTube video from our official YouTube channel below. Keep in mind that some of these fish are mean…

    Let’s get started

    1. Sunset Thick-lipped Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF

    Looking for an awesome orange community fish species with a very peaceful nature? Look no further than the sunset thick-lipped gourami.

    These Southeast Asian stunners are not the most common gourami in the hobby, but they are one of the best.

    These shy tropical fish will be happiest in a planted aquarium with a low water flow and plenty of hiding places. They will thrive on a diet of regular dried flake food supplemented with live and frozen food like brine shrimp.

    2. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72 – 80 ยฐF

    The honey gourami is like a smaller, chunkier version of the previous species. They are awesome centerpiece fish for nano aquariums down to about 15 gallons.

    These small fish come in many color variations, including golden orange. The males are the most colorful, and they develop intense colors around the breeding season.

    3. Variatus Platy

    Sunset Variatus
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 – 2.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Temperature: 68 – 79 ยฐF

    The variatus platy is an excellent orange fish for beginners to the aquarium hobby. These active fish are great community fish, and you can even breed them at home!

    Platy fish are livebearers, which means they give birth to live swimming fish instead of laying eggs. Some of the fry might even grow into beautiful orange adults if you provide loads of hiding places and vegetation.

    Variatus platy fish come in many different colors, but look out for the marigold and sunset varieties if you want a burst of orange in your home aquarium. These tropical fish have golden bodies with a darker back half. The area around their tail really pops with intense orange color!

    4. Clown Loach

    Clown Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracanthus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Borneo & Sumatra
    • Temperature: 75 – 86 ยฐF

    This next species is one for all the monster fish lovers out there. Clown loaches are probably the most colorful loach species in the hobby, but these gorgeous fish need a very large aquarium.

    Clown loaches have shark-like fins and a large forked tail, and their exotic orange body and bold black stripes give them a really great contrast. Keep these bright orange fish in with other peaceful, similar-sized tank mates, and enjoy watching their entertaining antics.

    5. Goldfish

    Goldfish Mouth
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 65 – 72 ยฐF

    How many fish do you know that are more popular than goldfish? These stunning fish are the first choice for many beginner fish keepers, but they have loads to offer for more experienced aquarists too.

    However, this hugely popular aquarium fish species is not the first choice for a community tank, and they require cool water and good filtration to stay happy and healthy.

    Goldfish come in many different colors, but the classic orange variety is the brightest. You can choose from loads of different breeds with various color shades, tail, and fin shapes. Some of the most interesting breeds even have strange features like double tail fins, missing dorsal fins, and strange bulging eyes!

    6. Red Zebra Mbuna

    Red Zebra Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Maylandia estherae/ Metriaclima estherae/ Pseudotropheus estherae
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Lake Malawi
    • Temperature: 75 – 82 ยฐF

    The red zebra mbuna is a beautiful and affordable African cichlid from lake Malawi. These colorful fish have a real mean streak so they are not a good choice for a community tank.

    However, this species can be kept with their own kind and other species from the mbuna group. Both males and females can have a deep orange body and their bright colors will really catch your attention.

    7. Lemon Cichlid

    Lemon Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Neolamprologus leleupi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Lake Tanganyika
    • Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF

    Lemon cichlids are one of the smaller African cichlids, and also one of the most colorful! Their color ranges from golden yellow to deep orange, and they have a large blue or black mouth.

    Keeping these tropical fish over light-colored aquarium gravel tends to bring out the best of their bright colors. This species requires excellent water quality and plenty of caves to really shine.

    Lemon cichlids are not especially mean, but they will become aggressive when breeding. They can be kept with other fish species from their native habitat but avoid keeping more than a pair of lemon cichlids unless you have a very large aquarium.

    8. Blood Parrot

    Blood Parrots in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Hybrid
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: aquarium trade
    • Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF

    The blood parrot is an unusual freshwater fish. These Central American cichlids are a hybrid, or mix of various other species, so you’ll never find them swimming free in the wild.

    Blood parrot cichlids are strange-looking tropical fish with a small mouth that looks like a parrot’s bill. With their bright orange color and large curious eyes, these interesting fish truly stand out.

    The best part is that blood parrots make amazing pets with no shortage of personality.

    9. Red Devils

    Red Devil Cichlid Amphilophus labiatus
    • Scientific Name: Amphilophus labiatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Central America
    • Temperature: 72 – 77ยฐF

    The red devil cichlid is a large Central American species with an attitude that matches its name. These guys are known for their aggressive behavior, and they have a habit of turning their tank upside down, so don’t bother with live plants or fancy aquascapes.

    Experts do keep these fish with other species, but you’re better off keeping a single red devil in its own tank and enjoying all the wild personality they bring.

    The good news is they are easy to keep if you give them enough room and protect their filter and other equipment from those powerful jaws!

    Saltwater

    Do you have a saltwater tank? There are some jaw-dropping orange tropical reef fish to choose from.

    Some of these fish are great for beginners, but others have a hefty price tag and need expert care. Nevertheless, every fishkeeper can appreciate their amazing looks!

    1. Clownfish

    Editor’s Choice
    Tank Raised Clownfish

    Best Choice For Reef Tanks!

    Clownfish are hardy, full of personality, and are safe for all corals. They are an icon for any saltwater tank

    Click For Best Price Purchase ORA Clownfish
    • Scientific Name: Amphiprion species
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Western Pacific & Indian Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    Clownfish are an obvious choice for saltwater fish keepers looking for a splash of orange in their reef tank. These small fish can thrive in tanks as small as 20 gallons, and no, they don’t need an anemone to stay happy and healthy.

    Many clownfish species are available, and the rise of designer tank-bred specimens means there are some truly breathtaking and unique individuals to choose from.

    2. Flame Angelfish

    Flame Angel
    • Scientific Name: Centropyge loricula
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: Central Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare/Limited

    This incredibly beautiful species is one of the brightest orange fish in the world. These fish also have vertical black bars on their body and electric blue trailing edges of the anal and dorsal fin, and the edge of their tail fin is transparent.

    Flame angelfish are not ideal for beginners, and they are not cheap, but this is one fish for every saltwater fish keeper’s wishlist! These fish are omnivores, and they will nip at corals and non-moving invertebrates, which means they are not the safest bet in many reef setups.

    3. Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse

    McCosker's Wrasse
    • Scientific Name: Paracheilinus carpenteri
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The Carpenter’s Flasher Wrasse is a wonderful orange fish for a reef aquarium. However, you can expect these fish to change color as they mature. Juveniles are intensely orange but they become more yellow as adults.

    Carpenter’s flasher wrasses have an interesting dorsal fin shape that includes a few long flowing rays. The caudal fin is commonly banded in multiple colors. These wrasse fish get along great with other fish in a peaceful reef aquarium.

    4. Female Lyretail Anthias

    Lyretail Anthias Male in Reef Tank
    • Scientific Name: Pseudanthias squamipinnis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Indian & Western Pacific Ocean
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare/Limited

    The lyretail anthias, or sea goldie as it is also known, brings amazing color to any reef aquarium. These schooling fish swim actively and need a large aquarium relative to their body size.

    Males are bright red, but females are a shocking orange color that really pops! Females are also more peaceful and can be kept in small groups of 5 or 6. Beware, though, the dominant female will probably develop into a male. Pretty fascinating!

    5. Harlequin Tusk

    Tusk Fish
    • Scientific Name: Choerodon fasciatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Western Pacific
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare/Limited

    The harlequin tusk combines bold orange stripes with pearl white and neon blue. These fish have some serious dentition too, and even their teeth are colorful. That’s right; harlequin tusks get their name from their electric blue dagger-like fangs.

    These saltwater fish are safe with corals and other semi-aggressive fish that can hold their own, but they will snack on inverts and bully smaller peaceful fish. Keep this species as a show-stopping centerpiece fish.

    6. Copper Band Butterfly

    Copper Band Butterfly
    • Scientific Name: Chelmon rostratus
    • Difficulty Level: Expert only
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Pacific & Indian Oceans
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The Copper banded butterflyfish is one of the most beautiful and distinctive saltwater species in the world. This flattened fish has a small head, with a strange shape. Their long snout and tiny mouth make this species very difficult to feed.

    They have a specialized diet, but their ability to control the population of pesky glass anemones makes them very popular with experienced reef keepers. These butterfly fish have been bred in captivity, but they are not yet commercially available.

    7. Miniatus Grouper

    • Scientific Name: Cephalopholis miniatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: West Pacific & Indian Oceans
    • Temperature: 72 – 78 ยฐF
    • Reef Safe: With caution
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The Miniatus grouper (video source) is a spectacular bright orange fish species. This tropical fish has a deep orange body covered in neon blue spots for amazing contrast.

    However, miniatus groupers are the wrong choice if you keep any smaller fish or invertebrates. These dazzling fish grow to over a foot long, and they have a large bucket mouth, so stick to similar-sized tank mates.

    Bonus Species

    Looking for even more orange aquarium fish? Check out these bonus fresh and saltwater species!

    Nano & Schooling Fish

    Cichlids

    Saltwater

    • Dispar anthias
    • Flame hawkfish
    • Citrinis clown goby

    FAQs

    What Tropical Fish Are Orange?

    There are many fresh and saltwater fish species with bright orange colors, including popular species that you probably already know. Orange betta fish and orange guppies are two great examples.

    What Kind Of Fish Are Orange And White?

    There are many fresh and saltwater fish species with bright orange colors, including popular species that you probably already know. Orange betta fish and orange guppies are two great examples.

    What Kinds Of Fish Are Orange?

    Goldfish are probably the most familiar orange aquarium fish in the world. However, there are dozens of other popular aquarium fish in the hobby with orange colors. There are various types of gouramis, guppies, cichlids, and even betta fish that have orange colors.

    What Tetras Are Orange?

    Tetras are excellent community fish, and their small size makes them a great choice for aquarists who don’t have room for a huge tank. The ember, serpae, and glowlight tetra are all beautiful schooling fish for peaceful community tanks.

    Final Thoughts

    Putting together a color-themed aquarium is great fun, and with such an amazing variety of aquarium fish out there, you can find fish of any color.

    Orange fish are especially eye-catching, and with the 16 awesome fish in this post, you can take your fresh or saltwater aquarium to the next level!

    What’s your favorite orange fish? Let us know in the comments below!

  • Blackwater Aquarium – 6 Fish Types (And How To Setup)

    Blackwater Aquarium – 6 Fish Types (And How To Setup)

    We’ve all seen planted aquariums with leaf litter that mimics the natural environment of swamps and floodplains. So aesthetically pleasing.

    But did you know? There are certain fish species dedicated only to the blackwater biotopes. Such fish species are tropical fish that are conditioned to live with very low levels of dissolved minerals and high concentrations of organic compounds or matter.

    Blackwater fish, as opposed to their name, are brightly colored with unique patterns and flawless beauty. These fish species love acidic water with pH 6.5 to lower. Some best examples of blackwater fish are Tetras, Rasboras, Hatchetfish, and Corydoras.

    In this article, I’ll discuss several types of blackwater fish and give a brief overview of blackwater tanks.

    Keep reading!

    What Are Blackwater Aquariums (Blackwater Biotopes)?

    Blackwater tank aquariums mimic the natural habitat of rivers, swamps, floodplains, and lakes. Since these blackwater rivers have low minerals and high organic compounds or matter, the color of the blackwater habitat is mostly dark water with a tannin-stained appearance.

    And so, the fish species that inhabit these environments are called blackwater fish. Most blackwater fish prefer slightly acidic conditions having a pH of around 6.5 or below. Also, they need a balanced diet with live food or frozen foods.

    Though mesmerizing, a blackwater tank is challenging to keep and maintain because of the unique water chemistry and conditions required by the blackwater fish.

    Types of Blackwater Aquarium Fish

    It is a popular belief that blackwater fish such as Tetras, Discus, Apistos, Loaches, and rams can thrive without soft water, low pH, or perfect water chemistry or water parameters. However, it’s not true.

    Blackwater fish requires exceptionally crystal clean and clear water that is bacteria-free. Thus, make sure to keep blackwater fish, only if you can keep your tank clean.

    Here is a list of some of the popular blackwater aquarium fish to keep in your home aquariums:

    • Tetras
    • Rasboras
    • Hatchetfish
    • Corydoras
    • Discus
    • Gourami
    • Apistogramma and other dwarf cichlids.

    1. Tetras

    Many species of tetras thrive in a blackwater tank. The tetras that live in dark water such as in swamps, peat bogs, and blackwater rivers prefer low concentrations of dissolved minerals and ph-neutral substrates such as freshwater sand. Avoid using marine sand or gravel sand since they are usually made of limestone that breaks up and increases the pH levels of your tank.

    Congo-Tetra

    The tetras living in blackwater biotope have adapted to the blackwater conditions, thus, are very sensitive to changes in the water chemistry or parameters than other tetra species. Blackwater tetras are also more prone to stress and illness. So, proper monitoring should be done to avoid any mishaps.

    2. Geophagus

    Geophagus are a species of Cichlids found in the streams and blackwater rivers of South America. Blackwater tank hobbyists love Geophagus fish for the fact that it is a blackwater fish. Since they are a blackwater fish species, they require a specialized diet and water conditions to thrive in.

    Geophagus

    Also, they are territorial and aggressive towards other fish, so they need plenty of hiding places and large tank size to tame their aggressive traits. Nevertheless, Geophagus is a unique and enchanting addition to your freshwater fish tank.

    3. Discus Fish

    When we speak of blackwater aquarium fish, Discus is the first one that comes to mind.

    Discus fish are usually called “the king of the aquarium fish”, and rightfully so. They have a serene, vibrantly colored body with a unique body shape that stands out from the crowd. Discus are well-adapted for blackwater tanks with low pH and high levels of organic matter.

    Discus In An Aquarium

    Discus loves hanging out in small groups, hence, ideal for a community tank. Also, it requires a varied diet to maintain the vibrancy of its colors and overall health. Therefore, the water conditions and nutritional requirements need to be met to keep a discus fish in a blackwater tank.

    4. Gouramis

    Pearl Gourami Fish

    Gouramis, especially Chocolate Gouramis, enjoy the blackwater biotope setup as much as bettas and cichlids do. Just make sure your Gourami is happy with the soft, acidic, and tannin-filled water.

    5. Dwarf Cichlids

    Dwarf Cichlids are an excellent choice for a biotope aquarium. Check out our article on them for more info. There are several types available with German Rams being the most colorful

    German Ram Cichlid in Tank

    6. Betta Fish

    If you’ve kept Betta fish or the Siamese fighting fish, you’ll understand that the use of tannins is not a novel concept. Experts aquarists use dried or dead Indian almond leaves to keep their bettas healthy, happy, and thriving. In the past, it has also been noted that bettas kept in tannin water with organic matter leached are more colorful and healthier.

    WYSIWYG Available!
    Betta Fish

    Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

    Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online

    How To Set Up

    Setting up a blackwater biotope properly requires special attention and care due to the unique conditions of these environments. Here are some steps you can follow to set up a blackwater aquarium:

    1. Choose A Suitable Tank Size

    Choosing a suitable aquarium size for blackwater fish is not an issue. Since these fish species are usually small, the tank size is pretty flexible. Also, nano blackwater biotope are easy to maintain under strict water conditions.

    Therefore, I recommend setting up a smaller tank starting with ultra-purified water and treating it with plant tannins.

    If you want to keep fish species such as Discus fish and angelfish, you can opt for a 55 gallons tank or over only if you can maintain it.

    2. Choose The Right Substrate

    I recommend using a fine gravel substrate to provide your plants with a root zone. You can opt for a dark substrate, especially for planted aquariums. In all cases, marine sand or gravel should never be used because they are made of limestone and aragonite, which increase the pH levels of water.

    To keep the pH neutral, it’s important to use freshwater sand or gravel. Basically, any substrate that is rich in organics or pH neutral would be the best choice for a blackwater biotope.

    3. Add Live Aquatic Plants

    If you’re into keeping live plants, choose plants that are adapted to low light and low pH conditions, such as Anubias or Java fern.

    Live aquatic plants, although not necessary, provide beautiful aesthetics and a more natural environment for the blackwater fish. Also, plants are an ideal source of natural tannins, especially with the dead or decaying leaves.

    1. Choose plants that can survive low light and low pH conditions. Some good choices include Anubias, Java fern, and Cryptocoryne. Also, you can add floating plants such as Amazon frog bit, Najas Indica, red root floaters floating plants, etc.
    2. Use natural materials for decorations: Natural materials, such as driftwood, Indian almond leaves, aquarium wood, and rocks, can help to create blackwater habitats.

    4. Set Up The Filtration System

    To maintain excellent overall water chemistry, it’s important to install and set up an effective filtration system. Choosing a reliable filtration system for a blackwater aquarium is a daunting task because of the critical requirements.

    I recommend setting up a canister filter or power filter. Also, remove activated carbon from the media chambers and use peat in place of activated carbon in the filter’s media. After adding the peat, closely monitor watercolor and water quality and adjust the peat quantity accordingly.

    Best Value
    Fluval Canister Filters

    Our Subscriber’s Choice

    Top name brand, Italian made, and updated design. The next gen Fluval Canisters are a best buy!

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    5. Prepare The Fish

    The blackwater habitat is relatively different from any freshwater or saltwater tanks. Therefore, it is important to prepare the fish before adding so it can adapt well.

    6. Maintain The Water Quality

    Blackwater aquarium tank works the best with general water hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (CH) in the 2 to 5-degree range. This range has low dissolved minerals which are ideal for a blackwater aquarium.

    Ideally, you should do partial water changes to keep the water in pristine condition for your blackwater fish.

    Maintaining your tank water is the best bet for keeping a blackwater biotope aquarium. If the tank becomes too dark, up the number of water changes or does them a bit more regularly. If you need to clean the substrate or gravel, I recommend doing a quick “sweep” with a gravel siphon.

    7. Choose The Right Tank Mates

    It’s crucial to take the fish’s size, temperament, and care needs into account when selecting tank mates for blackwater fish.

    To fit their tank size, many aquarium owners choose for smaller schooling fish that flourish in a planted aquarium. The following advice will help you select the best tank mates for your blackwater fish:

    Think About The Fish’s Size

    It is crucial to select tank mates that are comparable in size and temperament to blackwater fish because they are often tiny and quiet. Avoid larger or more aggressive fish since they could intimidate or damage the blackwater fish.

    Choose Compatible Species

    Blackwater fish originate from a range of habitats, so it’s crucial to pair them with tank mates who are acclimated to the same types of water. Included in this are elements like pH, temperature, and water hardness.

    Think About The Care Demands

    Some blackwater fish species could need particular care, including a particular food or amount of water flow. To guarantee that every fish can survive in the aquarium, it is crucial to pair species that require a similar level of care.

    Pay Attention To The Amount Of Fish

    Overcrowding the blackwater tank should be avoided as it might result in poor water quality and stress for the fish. Make careful to look up the appropriate tank size and stocking rates for each fish species you are thinking about.

    FAQs

    Is This Good For Tanks?

    Yes, blackwater aquariums are suitable for fish designed for blackwater biotope. However, freshwater or saltwater fish might not be the right choice for a blackwater aquarium. Blackwater aquarium has low levels of dissolved minerals and high concentration of organic matter, which is not suitable for all fish types.

    Why Is the Water Dark?

    Blackwater is dark water because of humic substances or humic and fulvic acids.

    Do Neon Tetras Like This?

    Yes, Neon tetras (Paracheirodon innesi) are well adapted for Amazonian Blackwater environment and can thrive in these environments when given proper care.

    Can Tetras Live In Blackwater?

    Yes, some species of tetras are adapted to living in blackwater environments.

    Can You Have Plants In This Type Of Tank?

    Yes, you can have plants in a blackwater tank. Some examples of plants that may be suitable for a blackwater tank include Amazon sword plants, Anubias species, and Cryptocoryne species.

    What Does This Look Like In A Tank?

    Blackwater in an aquarium is water that appears black and tannin-stained, usually as a result of the presence of organic materials and little dissolved mineral content.

    Tannins

    Blackwater habitats are prevalent in nature and are characterized by very low levels of dissolved minerals and a high concentration of organic matter. They may be found in shallow, slow-moving waterways like rivers, swamps, and floodplains. In the realm of fishkeeping, blackwater tanks can be formed by utilizing a dark-colored substrate consisting of organic materials, such peat moss or coconut coir, or by employing leaves (Indian almond leaves or oak).

    Are These Tanks Good?

    Blackwater tanks, also known as “blackwater aquariums,” are aquariums that are designed to mimic the natural habitat of certain species of fish, plants, and other aquatic animals. These environments are typically characterized by low pH and high levels of dissolved organic matter, which can be achieved by using specialty filters and substrates, such as peat or leaf litter.

    Some people find blackwater tanks to be aesthetically pleasing and enjoy the unique appearance of the water and plants in these environments. Additionally, some species of fish and plants are adapted to living in blackwater environments and may thrive in these conditions.

    However, blackwater tanks can be more challenging to maintain compared to traditional freshwater aquariums. The low pH and high levels of organic matter can make it more difficult to keep the water clean and healthy, and it can be challenging to find the appropriate filtration and water-changing equipment for these types of tanks.

    Do All Fish Like Dark Water?

    No, not all fish species are adapted to living in blackwater environments, which are characterized by low pH and high levels of dissolved organic matter.

    Can Shrimp Live In This Type of Tank?

    Yes, some species of shrimp, such as Red Cherry shrimp, Pinto shrimp, and bamboo shrimps thrive in blackwater environments.

    Final Thoughts

    Blackwater aquariums, despite being challenging to set up and maintain, look ravishing and refreshing.

    It is important to carefully research the care requirements of the fish you are considering for a blackwater aquarium to ensure that they are suitable for these conditions. Blackwater aquariums can be rewarding to keep, as they provide a unique and beautiful setting for the fish to thrive in.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • What Do Fish Eat – 3 Types OF Diets (And 7 Types Of Foods)

    What Do Fish Eat – 3 Types OF Diets (And 7 Types Of Foods)

    Fish living in the wild have the freedom to consume anything that can fit their dietary needs. But in the aquarium, they almost always rely on you to stay healthy and happy. This makes fish-keeping even more challenging for beginners.

    With over 30,000 fish species discovered1, with each having its own dietary requirements, you need to pay attention to what foods you can feed your fish and how many alternatives can be introduced to their menu.

    In this article, I will help you understand different types of fish foods, their benefits, and what species are best to consider for what foods. So make sure you stick around till the end. Let’s learn about what do fish eat exactly and what works best for them!

    Key Takeaways

    • Fish species are classified into three categories, each with its own dietary needs.
    • Every fish species needs nutrients to survive, which they get from a well-balanced diet no matter what category they fall into.
    • Fish owners have plenty of options to choose fish food from, given they understand the dietary requirements of their pets.

    The Importance Of Feeding Your Aquarium The Right Food

    Feeding your fish the right type of fish food is pretty essential, especially when you have different species housed in the same tank.

    All species, regardless of where they come from, need a nutrient-rich diet. Some fish species get these nutrients from vegetable matter, while others need meaty foods to stay healthy.

    Pellet Foods

    And like humans, fish also need a well-rounded combination of proteins, fats, minerals, and vitamins in their food so that they can survive against all odds and have better lifespans. And in case you don’t know, fish can be picky eaters, too. Some fish prefer a plant-based diet, while other fish love to hunt down live prey.

    In their natural habitat, they are privileged to decide what they want to eat. But since they don’t have this option in captivity, the responsibility of providing them with a balanced diet falls on your shoulders.

    If you know where your fish comes from and what they are accustomed to eating in the wild, the process of choosing the right food will be easier and faster.

    Some fish species are found living in the depths, while others colonize the surface areas. Some species are freshwater fish, whereas others can be saltwater species. Their origin, as well as where they live in the water areas, determine the type of food they need.

    Fish diets can generally be broken into three different categories, which we are going to cover in the next part.

    Remember that if you know what category your fish fall into, you can easily design their menu according to their needs.

    Different Types Of Diets

    With different species known across the world, the change in their dietary needs is common and therefore necessary to get familiar with.

    You can generally classify your fish’s diet into three categories: Carnivorous, Herbivorous and Omnivorous.

    Let’s talk about each of them in more detail!

    Herbivores

    The first category on this list is Herbivorous fish.

    These fish get most of their nutrients from a plant-based diet. They can munch on algae or eat vegetable matter to stay healthy and active. In the wild, herbivorous fish get plenty of food options to choose from. Apart from algae and plant matter, you can supplement your pet with fruits for better growth in your home aquarium.

    Fish that fall into this category often have flat teeth or a beak that helps them bring off algae from rocks, wood, substrate, or other areas where they can find algae. These fish usually graze on areas with grown algae throughout the day and night. 

    Octocinclus Fish

    There are only a few named species that survive only on a plant-based diet because most species need a well-balanced diet of meaty foods and vegetables. You cannot feed them meat since they won’t be able to digest it.

    Compared to other types, Herbivorous fish can be challenging to keep because of their dietary needs. You need to supplement their tank with an abundant amount of food to graze on. Sometimes meeting their needs becomes pretty difficult, which can starve the fish to death. Luckily, there are options you can consider to avoid any mishap (more on that).

    Some common herbivorous fish include:

    Carnivores

    Carnivorous fish can also be called predatory fish that drive their energy from a meat-based diet. In the wild, they chase down smaller fish, insects, worms, snails, and shrimp. You can find fish like sharks actively hunting for live foods. On the other hand, other fish from the same category prefer sitting perfectly calm, waiting for their prey to become their next meal.

    Carnivorous fish feature bigger mouths, larger teeth, and aerodynamic bodies that help them with rapid swimming through water.

    Dragon Betta

    In the aquarium hobby, it’s unlikely to find a fish owner housing Carnivorous fish since these species have a very predatory nature. Carnivorous fish enjoy tearing apart their prey and swallowing them instead of chewing on their meals.

    Some carnivores would include:

    Omnivores

    Unlike those species that fall into the previous categories, Omnivorous fish have a solid digestive tract and offer you a wide range of options to consider when it comes to feeding them. They have a digestive system that allows both plant matter and meat to travel through, making them a pretty easy pet to care for.

    Fulfilling their nutritional requirements is pretty simple as long as you feed them a varied diet of vegetables and meat.

    Tank Raised Clownfish

    And for a good reason, you are more likely to see Omnivorous fish in your local pet store than Herbivorous or Carnivorous fish.

    Though these fish are a common type to find, you can come across some species that are more inclined towards either meaty foods or greens. The best way to find that out beforehand is to research their natural environment and the diet they consume in the wild. 

    Some common fish in this category include:

    What Do They Eat?

    Before you go and bring home a new pet, it’s always recommended to know the biology, size, and environment of the fish.

    Fish are extremely diverse, which makes their dietary needs different from one another. Fish that are Carnivorous can eat live food, such as other young fish. And as far as the herbivorous category is concerned, they love to eat plants and spend their whole lives eating only that. Fish that are omnivores can take both vegetable and meaty foods as their main diet.

    To get you started, I’ve listed out some common types of fish food suitable for different types of fish.

    Dried Food

    Dried fish food is one of the most common and convenient options to consider for your pet’s diet.

    Apart from being cheap and easily available, dried food offers a range of options for carnivores, herbivores, and omnivore fish. And not only that, but when stored properly, this can last for several years. So it doesn’t matter if your fish wants to have insects, plants, or both.

    There are different types of dried foods available in almost every pet store. Let’s dive into that!

    Flakes

    If you have top and mid-feeding fish, then flakes are for you.

    Flake foods are small pieces of paper-thin fish food that float on the surface from where mid-dwellers and surface feeders can effortlessly consume them.

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food
    Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food

    Cobalt offers a premium level flake food with probiotics. A color enhancing formula that works great for all tropical fish

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    You can find some specific kinds of dried flakes perfect for fish like goldfish. Apart from this, there are different varieties that can give you the freedom to go for enhancing the color of your fish.

    The size of dried flakes doesn’t have to coexist with the size of your pet since you can crush them into smaller bits and then feed them to your pet.

    The main downside to flakes is that as soon as they get into the water, they begin losing their nutrients. They will dissolve in the water, and that’s why I don’t recommend you feed them to your bottom feeders.

    Pellets

    Giving your fish floating pellets is another great option, especially when you want to keep every fish in your aquarium happy doesn’t matter where they live.

    Pellets, like flakes, are dried food that is made with different ingredients to target a specific diet.

    Typically, you will see three different types of pellets.

    The number one type is floating pellets that stay on the surface and transcend other types of fish food in size. Since they contain lots of air to stay afloat, some fish can potentially go through bloating or buoyancy issues, depending on what brand you’re using.

    The second type is slow-sinking pellets. These pellets are designed to target the appetite of mid-dwellers who are too shy to eat up their food. As for the size, these pellets come in different sizes, so you can find the one that best suits the size of your fish’s mouth.

    The third and last type is fast-sinking pellets. These pellets quickly sink down to the bottom for bottom-dwelling fish to feast on. Unlike the other two types, fast-sinking pellets contain the most nutrients and make a perfect meal for fish like plecos.

    Wafers

    Wafers are another type of dry fish food that comes in both large and small sizes. They take time to dissolve and therefore are perfect for your slow-feeder fish to devour.

    Wafers become gradually soft in the water and can be eaten either by breaking up or by nibbling on them.

    Herbivore fish can be fed algae wafers to fulfill their need since finding grown algae on a frequent basis is not possible for your pet.

    Great For Bottom Feeders!
    Hikari Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    Freeze-dried foods

    Though less in protein as compared to fresh or frozen food, freeze-dried food is still a fine option for fish owners.

    Typically freeze-dried food is something that was once alive but has been freeze-dried. It can include shrimp or worms and is usually given to those fish that need protein-rich foods.

    Aside from worms and brine shrimp, you can freeze-dry daphnia, bloodworms, tubifex, and krill.

    Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

    Buy On Amazon

    The good thing about freeze-dried food is that it can outlive other foods and can easily fit in the mouths of smaller fish species.

    Live Foods

    If you’re a beginner, then fetching live food for your fish will be pretty demanding. Except for live feeder fish and ghost shrimp, it’s like an enterprise to get live food for your pet fish.

    Live foods are rich in nutrients, but they can turn your freshwater aquarium into a disease center for your pet fish. You can buy bloodworms, feeder fish, and ghost shrimp from any local fish store, where you can find plenty of live foods that have been farmed specifically for this purpose.

    But in case you don’t want to run to the store every time you run out of supply, you can grow mosquito larvae at home to feed your fish. Just make sure you get a fresh supply available.

    Since live foods can introduce tons of diseases to home aquariums and to your fish, I recommend going for frozen food. Culturing live food is a better venture for an aquarist with more experience (and who doesn’t mind getting messy).

    Frozen Foods

    fish food Frozen fish food is typically fish, shrimp, or other crustaceans frozen into cubes. Unlike live foods, frozen food is superior in quality and can become a nutrient-rich diet for your fish.

    At the time of feeding, just drop the cube into the aquarium and let your little pet enjoy the feast.

    Frozen foods can live longer than live foods when properly stored in a freezer. They are easily available online and at local fish stores. If you are a beginner and measuring servings is hard for you, then you can use these cubes to ensure you are not overfeeding your pets.

    FAQs

    What Is Their Main Food?

    The main food of the fish depends on the category they fall into. For carnivores and omnivores, smaller fish, insects, worms, and snails are the main source of food whereas herbivores eat plants.

    What Do They Eat In The Ocean?

    The diet of an ocean fish can vary depending on the category. Herbivorous fish eats algae while omnivores and carnivores can feast on shrimp, plankton, and crustaceans.

    Closing Thoughts

    Different types of fish have different dietary needs, which can be met by a variety of food options. It’s important to know what type of diet your fish requires and the foods that fit them best in order to ensure they’re getting the nutrients they need. Have you tried any new fish food products for your pets lately? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Is Your Betta Fish Losing Color? – Here’s 7 reasons why

    Is Your Betta Fish Losing Color? – Here’s 7 reasons why

    Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, are an aquarist’s favorite fish because of their beautiful color and temperament. If you’re a betta owner, you’ll notice that despite taking care of your precious fish, your betta is still losing color, which is a serious concern for many fish keepers.

    There are a number of reasons why betta fish loses its color, the number one being; stress. Since betta fish are sensitive aquarium fish that can get stressed against several external stimuli. Sometimes, a little change such as changing the environment or tank transfer may induce stress in your betta fish.

    In this article, we will discuss 7 common reasons why your betta might be losing color.

    Top 7 Reasons Why Your Betta Fish Is Losing Its Color

    Here are the top 7 reasons why your Betta is losing color.

    1. Introducing A New Member To The Tank

    Betta fish are highly territorial and aggressive. Therefore, any new fish added to the aquarium is seen as a potential threat to their territory. Hence, this leads to aggression and territorial behavior in the aquarium. Your betta fish might flare the fins or chase new fish to get rid of the new fish, eventually leading to stressful behavior.

    Therefore, I always suggest choosing the tank mates carefully for your betta’s aquarium. If you’re planning to introduce a new fish in the tank, provide lots of hiding places and decorations for the fish.

    2. Stress 

    Betta will always lose color under stress. When Bettas are under stress, their bodies release a hormone that results in your fish losing color. The amount of color loss is dependent on the severity of the stress. In serious circumstances, your betta fish turns white or loses color1.

    There are so many reasons for stress in Betta fish such as changes in the environment, poor water quality, poor diet, and other fish that are incompatible.

    If you want your fish to maintain their vibrant colors, it’s important to provide them with a stress-free environment. Always maintain water quality, monitor water parameters, and avoid adding too many fish in the betta tank.

    3. Diseases

    If stress or other water parameters are not the underlying cause of your betta fish losing color, then illness is a possible reason.

    Betta fish may catch fish diseases such as parasites or bacterial infections that cause them to lose their vibrancy.

    Ich

    Freshwater Ich

    Ich is a parasitic infection that causes white spots on the betta’s skin and fins. Ich is one of the leading reasons your betta fish turning white or losing color. To treat ich, several medications are prescribed but it’s important to identify the underlying cause.

    Fin Rot

    Fin rot is caused by bacterial infections. The symptoms include; frayed betta fins or ragged fins and may also affect the fish’s skin. If left untreated, it can be a deadly infection.

    The common causes of fin rot are:

    1. Poor water quality
    2. Overcrowding
    3. Improper diet
    4. Physical trauma and stress
    Betta with Fin Rot

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms are contagious. And the best part is they can see with the naked eye. Anchor worms are parasites that appear as long, thin, and thread-like particles on the betta’s body.

    The infected fish shows symptoms such as:

    1. Scratching or rubbing against objects
    2. Loss of appetite
    3. Loss of color
    4. Lacerations and ulcerations on the betta’s body

    4. Poor Water Quality

    Betta fish are native to slow-moving waters in Southeast Asia. Therefore, they need particular water conditions to remain healthy and happy in their tank. When the water parameters are not properly maintained, it can lead to a variety of problems, including fish diseases and loss of color.

    I always suggest regularly testing the water and making adjustments to maintain water parameters and quality. Always test the water to make sure that it is within the ideal ranges.

    pH

    First of all, the pH of betta tank water should be maintained. Betta fish likes slightly acidic pH ranging between 6.5 to 7.5. If you keep the pH too high or low, your fish might fall victim to stress and ultimately lose color.

    Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrates

    It is vital to monitor the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the tank water. High levels of ammonia and other toxins may result in deadly fish diseases.

    If the tank water is not properly maintained, it can lead to a variety of health problems, including a loss of color. Proper water quality is essential for bettas, and it is important to regularly test the water and make sure that it is within the proper range for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels to avoid ammonia poisoning or nitrate poisoning.

    5. Poor Diet

    Betta fish require a varied, nutritious, and carnivorous diet in order to maintain their health and vibrancy. A diet that is lacking in nutrients or that is unbalanced can lead to a variety of health problems, including a loss of color.

    Since betta is carnivorous, their diet mainly consists of protein. It’s crucial to feed them food high in protein such as live or frozen foods, brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. I also advise feeding them freeze-dried foods or dry food supplements to improve their health and color vibrancy.

    Along with protein-rich diet, feed your betta vitamins and minerals as a color-enhancing food but make sure the diet is balanced to maintain the health and vibrancy of the fish, without overfeeding fish.

    6. Incorrect Water Temperature

    Water temperature plays a vital role in maintaining the vibrancy of your betta fish. Since bettas are tropical fish, they prefer consistent water temperatures to remain happy and healthy. Too high or too low water temperature can cause stress and other health problems in your betta fish, including color loss.

    Effect Of High Temperatures

    At high temperatures, betta fish is susceptible to stress and diseases, and this might be the reason for your betta fish turning white or losing color. At high temperatures, the betta’s body stops functioning properly, which results in low pigment production. Hence, the color loss.

    Effect Of Low Temperatures

    Low water temperature is equally harmful to the betta fish as the cold water usually slows down your fish’s metabolism. As a result, they become more prone to diseases and stress. Additionally, the pigment cells of betta fish contract at low temperatures, resulting in a loss of color.

    Ideal Water Water For Betta Fish

    To maintain the color and vibrancy of your betta fish, it’s important to keep the water temperature in ideal range.

    The ideal water temperature for your betta tank is between 76 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24-28 degrees Celsius). I suggest using a reliable thermometer to monitor and maintain a consistent temperature.

    7. Old Age

    One of the main reasons your betta is suffering from color loss is nothing, but the inevitable; old age!

    As your betta fish ages, you’ll realize that it appears less vibrant and less colorful as the younger fish in the tank.

    There are many factors that contribute to the color loss in older betta fish.

    1. Low production of pigment in the betta’s body
    2. Decline in overall’s betta health
    3. Stress and fish diseases

    If your older Betta is suffering from color loss, it’s not uncommon. However, you need to maintain proper water quality and betta’s diet to avoid other problems and illness.

    How To Brighten Their Color

    If your betta fish is progressively losing its color and you have no idea why, there are a few things you can do to get those beautiful, bright colors back.

    Monitor Water Quality

    The good thing about betta fish is its ability to thrive in small aquariums. However, the small containers, vases and jars often become too toxic for your betta fish to live in. The traces of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites may cause other deadly fish diseases, resulting in a loss of color.

    Therefore, it is recommended to monitor and maintain the water quality and choose the appropriate tank size for your betta fish. The ideal tank size should be no less than 5 gallons.

    Feed Them Shrimp

    It’s a known fact that betta regains their bright, beautiful colors when you feed your betta protein-rich food. Also, natural foods containing carotenoids have a proven record to restore Betta’s color.

    Thus, when you feed your betta just fish food, they become constipated and lose color. Experienced betta keepers always recommend feeding betta fish color-enhancing foods such as brine shrimp and other crustaceans to brighten up your tank with the natural beauty of your adorable bettas.

    Use LED Aquarium Lighting

    This might sound like the most bizarre option, but it actually works.

    If you notice your betta fish turning white or getting grey and dull in color, just install LED aquarium lighting and within the next few hours, the colors will be back. That’s because the aquarium lighting causes the colors of betta to become more intense and darker.

    Why Are They Turning Black?

    Sometimes, betta doesn’t lose their color but turns black, especially from their fins. The process of betta fish turning black might disturb aquarists. However, it’s not worrisome if your fish’s health is good.

    There are several factors that contribute to your betta fish turning black.

    The Marble Betta Gene Factor

    If your betta has the marble gene, it will most likely turn black after the age of two. And as your betta ages, it will become darker and darker with time. Therefore, under the age of one or two, if your betta turns black, there can be a problem. The problem can be poor water quality, stress or improper tank cycling. In severe cases, it can be a disease called the black spot disease.

    What Should I Do If They Are Turning Black?

    If your betta is suffering from black spots or turning black, you should first rule out the black spot disease and other environmental factors. If everything seems okay, the fish changing color should not be a problem.

    Here are a few things you could do to avoid your bettas from getting black.

    1. Provide enough oxygen to the betta tank by using airstone kits that are reliable and easy to use.
    2. Cycle your tank properly by establishing beneficial bacteria that help balance the nitrogen levels in the tank.
    3. Choose suitable tank mates for your betta tank and eliminate stress from the aquarium.

    FAQs

    Why Are They Turning White?

    Your beloved betta fish might be turning white because of stress, some underlying cause such as stress, and other fish diseases, including bacterial infection, fungal infection, or poor water quality and water parameters. Last but not the least, the major cause of color loss in your precious betta fish might be as simple as old age.

    How Do I Get Their Color Back?

    If you experience your betta fish losing color, there are things you can do to restore the vibrancy.
    1. Identify and address the underlying cause
    2. Provide a balanced nutritious diet
    3. Maintain a healthy and consistent tank atmosphere
    4. Seek professional help

    Do They Turn White When Stressed?

    Yes, betta fish can turn white when stressed. It is due to the release of hormones that cause the color pigments to contract, resulting in a loss of color.

    Do They Turn White?

    Yes, Betta can turn white or pale under certain circumstances. Some possible causes of color loss in bettas include:

    1. Introducing a new fish to the betta tank
    2. Old age
    3. Stress
    4. Bacterial or fungal infection
    5. Poor water quality
    6. Poor diet
    7. Fish diseases
    8. Incorrect water parameters and water temperature

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish are beautiful aquatic creatures with long, flowy fins that drape beautifully around their bodies. The key characteristic of betta fish is their vibrant colors and beautiful patterns. However, stress, poor water quality, fish illness, and other factors may result in a loss of color that concerns fish keepers.

    To keep your betta fish healthy and happy and in their best shape and colors, it’s essential to provide them with the right water conditions, diet, and tank mates, so they develop more vivid colors to awe their owners.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • All About Aquarium Water Hardness (And How to Lower — and Increase It)

    All About Aquarium Water Hardness (And How to Lower — and Increase It)

    Do you know the difference between hard and soft water? Aquarium water chemistry can be pretty intimidating for beginner fish keepers, but it’s really important to know the basics.

    It’s easy to feel overwhelmed by all the technical terms, but don’t worry, you don’t need a lab coat and goggles for this lesson – we’re going to break it down super simple in this beginner’s guide!

    So let’s get started about aquarium water hardness!

    Key Takeaways

    • Water hardness is a measure of the dissolved minerals in your water.
    • Tap water from different parts of the world has different total hardness/ general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) levels.
    • GH is a measure of calcium and magnesium ions, while KH is a measure of calcium carbonate anions. pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of the water.
    • Water hardness affects the kind of tropical fish, invertebrates, and plant species you can keep in your aquarium.
    • It is possible to adjust water hardness, but it is easier to choose fish species that are adapted to your local water.

    What Is Water Hardness?

    Water hardness is the concentration of minerals dissolved in the water. More specifically, it refers to the amount of calcium and magnesium in the water, as well as trace amounts of other minerals. You can check out our lastest video from our YouTube Channel. We go into more details in the blog post below. Be sure to subscribe if you enjoy our content!

    The concentration of these minerals depends on the geology of the area where the water originates. That means water hardness varies from area to area, and it all depends on the kinds of rocks the water passes over before it gets to your home. Dolomite and limestone are common rock types that alter water chemistry.

    You can get a general idea of the hardness of your tap water in the US by checking out the United States Geological Survey (USGS) website1. However, testing your aquarium water quality and parameters at home is the best way to get an accurate picture.

    We can break it down one step further and measure general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness/alkalinity (KH), and both can be very important.

    Read on to learn everything you need to know about water mineral levels.

    General Hardness (GH)

    General hardness measures the concentrations of mineral salts in your aquarium water. These minerals are magnesium (Mg) and calcium (Ca) ions, and they can be measured in degrees (dGH) or parts per million (ppm).

    A water GH level of 4-8dGH or 70-140 ppm is a suitable level for most freshwater fish tanks. However, this depends on the type of fish, invertebrates, and plants you keep.

    Carbonate Hardness (KH)

    Carbonate hardness refers to the measure of carbonate and bicarbonate levels in the water. This determines your water’s buffering capacity against pH crashes and swings. Unstable water quality can be very dangerous to many fish, so this is an important parameter to consider.

    Water pH levels change slightly throughout the day but within a certain range. This is a natural process, but it is dangerous if it happens too fast.

    The higher the KH, the higher your pH is likely to be, and also, the more stable your pH level will stay. On the other hand, a very low KH is typical in a tank with a low pH which is prone to fluctuations.

    However, a higher KH is not always ideal. High carbonate hardness makes it more difficult to adjust your pH levels. This can be a problem if you want to change your water parameters to keep a certain species of fish.

    When it comes to carbonate hardness, 3 dKH is a safe level, although many commercially bred aquarium fish are adaptable between 1 and 10 dKH.

    Does Water Hardness Really Matter?

    Different aquatic plants and fish species have evolved to live in the type of water found in their part of the world. The minerals that make water hard or soft are very important for healthy fish and plants, but the amount they need varies between species.

    Many aquarium fish are very adaptable to water hardness, especially when captive bred. However, it’s still a good idea to match the preferred natural habitats and water chemistry of your fish. Some species have very specific requirements and just won’t do well in the wrong water.

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    Most fish do well in slightly hard water, and many can adapt to even harder water parameters. However, few species will thrive in very hard water. African cichlids are a notable exception and a great example of fish that need very hard water.

    As you will learn later in this guide, you can change the water hardness in your aquarium to suit the types of fish you want to keep. However, it might be easier to match your fish to the kind of water you already have.

    How Does Water Hardness Affect Fish?

    Water hardness affects osmoregulation in fish. This impacts their ability to regulate salt and water in their bodies. Outside of their tolerance range, fish can become very stressed or even die.

    Carbonate Hardness (Kh)

    Earlier in this post, we learned that a low carbonate hardness (KH) allows your pH value to swing drastically, which can be stressful for your fish.

    Carbonate Hardness does not have the same physiological effects as general hardness, but the buffering capacity is key to maintaining a stable pH level and environment for your pets.

    General Hardness (GH)

    Fish need minerals, just like we do. Without them, normal bodily functions like growing and reproducing would be impossible.

    So, we know that incorrect carbonate and general hardness can be dangerous for fish, but what about the other life in our aquariums? Does hard water affect invertebrates and plants too?

    Low general hardness can be very dangerous for aquarium invertebrates. It can cause problems for molting shrimp and cause thin, weak shells on snails.

    Very soft water can also be dangerous for live aquarium plants, although many plants are also sensitive to high carbonate hardness. Some plant species, like Vallisneria, show a definite preference for harder water.

    How to Measure Your Water Chemistry

    You probably know that you should measure your aquarium water parameters regularly to be sure you are performing enough regular aquarium maintenance. However, aquarium water testing also allows you to monitor other important parameters like hardness.

    Unfortunately, simply testing your pH levels is not enough. pH, KH, and GH are often linked in nature, which means that water with a low pH tends to have a low GH and KH too.

    However, tap water can be different. Therefore, it is important to test both GH and KH, since they aren’t necessarily linked to pH.

    The good news is that the process is pretty much the same as measuring other water quality parameters like nitrates. Let’s take a look at the basic process of testing your hardness levels.

    Strip Tests

    Strip tests are super easy to use. Some all-in-one kits can be used to measure multiple parameters, including pH, GH, KH, nitrates, and nitrites.

    API Test Strips

    This is a basic test kit that are used in many pet stores. There are better options, but this is readily available at most stores

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    Simply dip the strip into your aquarium water and compare the colors on the strip with the example card to read your water parameters. Some aquarists even cut the strips in half to save a few bucks, but be sure to follow the instructions on your product for the most accurate results.

    Liquid Test Kits

    Liquid test kits are also very easy to use and even more fun! These tests use droplets of colorful liquid to measure the GH, KH, and other parameters of your aquarium water.

    Reading the Results

    We can put water hardness into different categories from very soft water, all the way up to ‘liquid rock’! Let’s take a look at five basic categories and their general hardness levels:

    1. Very soft water: 0-4 dGH /0-70 ppm

    Very soft water has low levels of dissolved calcium and magnesium. Most plants and animals will not do well in these conditions.

    1. Soft water: 4-8 dGH/70-140 ppm

    Many South American and Southeast Asian fish thrive in softer water. Softer water is also ideal for many freshwater plant species.

    1. Moderately hard water: 8-12 dGH/ 140-210 ppm

    Moderately hard water is a safe environment for most of the popular freshwater aquarium fish in the hobby.

    1. Hard water: 12-18 dGH/ 210-320 ppm

    Livebearers and other fish that enjoy moderately hard water can often adjust to hard water conditions.

    1. Very hard water: 18-30 dGH/ 320-530 ppm

    Very hard water is often known as ‘liquid rock’ because it contains high concentrations of minerals. Most freshwater fish will not thrive in very hard water, although cichlids from Central America and East Africa prefer these parameters.

    What Fish Are Good For Hard (And Soft) Water

    Let’s take a look at some popular examples of hard and soft water fish that you might want to keep in your home aquarium.

    Hard Water Fish Species

    Soft Water Fish Species

    How To Change Your Water Hardness

    It is possible to change your water hardness, but that is not always your best option. Stability is important, and when you start having to adjust levels, there is always the chance of human error.

    Inconsistent water parameters can be stressful for your fish. However, if your water is naturally soft and you want to keep African Cichlids, you’re going to need to increase your water hardness.

    Increasing Your Water Hardness

    Increasing general hardness is a matter of adding calcium and magnesium salts to the water in a safe and manageable way. Before you adjust your water hardness, make sure you have tested your GH, KH, and pH level.

    Let’s take a look at some simple methods of increasing water hardness.

    • Crushed Coral/Coral Sand

    Adding crushed coral is a great natural way to increase your water hardness. However, it is not easy to reach an exact level using this method.

    You can add crushed coral directly to your substrate or use it in your aquarium filter. It will act faster if you place it in a mesh bag in your filter where there is a constant flow of water.

    • Limestone Rock

    Another way to gradually increase your tank water hardness is to use certain types of rocks as your hardscape. Rocks like Texas Holey Rock are beautiful limestone-based rocks that are very popular. This rock is high in calcium carbonate, so it will increase the pH, Gh, and KH of your water over time.

    Great For African Cichlids
    Texas Holey Rock Natural Limestone

    With its ability to raise pH and hardness, this rock is an excellent choice for African Cichlids

    Buy On Amazon
    • Commercial Water Hardeners

    Purpose-made products like Seachem Equilibrium are available for managing your water hardness levels.

    Similarly, products like Seachem Alkaline Buffer are available for managing your carbonate hardness levels. These products are great because they allow more precise control.

    Decreasing Your Water Hardness

    Decreasing your water hardness can be achieved by reducing the concentrations of magnesium and calcium salts in the water. Read on to learn how to soften aquarium water.

    • RO/DI Water

    It is more difficult to soften aquarium water if you have very hard water. One way to achieve this is to start over with pure water and add the minerals that you need. Reverse osmosis deionized (RO/DI) water is neutral and contains no minerals.

    You can make your own RO/DI water at home using a reverse osmosis system. Buying one of these systems is a small investment, but they will pay for themselves in the long run.

    This pure water is extremely soft and has a neutral pH. It is not safe for your fish or plants until you have remineralized it with something like Seachem Equilibrium or mixed it with tap water.

    • Distilled Water

    Distilled water can be used in the same way as reverse osmosis water. However, you will still need to increase the total hardness of the water with magnesium and calcium carbonate compounds before it is suitable for keeping fish.

    A simple way to remineralize distilled and RO/DI water is to cut it with tap water. Simply add small amounts of tap water to the pure water until the desired water hardness level is reached.

    Your water will become harder over time if you are not performing regular water changes and simply topping up your tank with tap water. Test your water regularly and use the correct mixture of distilled and tap water each time you top up your tank to keep your levels stable.

    • Water Softening Pillows

    Water-softening pillows are another great option, and they are very easy to use. These pouches use a resin that attracts magnesium and calcium to remove them from the water.

    You will have less precise control when using this method, but it is very easy and works well for soft water fish like tetras and angelfish.

    • Peat Moss

    Peat moss can be used to lower pH levels in your fish tank. This organic material will leach tannins into the water, staining it yellow or darker.

    Peat moss can be effective for creating blackwater freshwater aquariums and softening your water to some degree, but it is not very effective as a water softener if you have very hard water.

    • Aquarium Soils and Driftwood

    Some aquarium soils, like Controsoil, can also effectively soften water, making them a great choice for planted tanks. Driftwood, almond leaves, and other plant materials that leach tannins and stain the water will lower the pH and hardness somewhat.

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood

    Editor’s Choice

    Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

    Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

    FAQs

    What Causes Water Hardness In Aquariums?

    Water hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium carbonate anions, and magnesium and calcium ions in the water. The hardness of water varies depending on where you live in the world and the kinds of rocks your water flows over before reaching your home.

    Does Aquarium Water Hardness Matter?

    Aquarium water hardness can be very important. Most aquarium fish are quite adaptable, but some species have specific requirements for survival and breeding.

    What Should Water Hardness Be For An Aquarium?

    The ideal water hardness varies depending on which kind of fish you keep. Most aquarium fish and plants will thrive in water with a general hardness (GH) of 4-8 degrees or 70-140 parts per million.

    What Should Water Hardness Be For An Aquarium?

    The ideal water hardness varies depending on which kind of fish you keep. Most aquarium fish and plants will thrive in water with a general hardness (GH) of 4-8 degrees or 70-140 parts per million.

    Does Water Hardness Affect Aquarium Fish?

    Water hardness has some important effects on a fish’s ability to live and grow, so fish can become sick in water that is too soft or too hard. Some fish will survive in water with an incorrect hardness but will not spawn or breed.

    Final Thoughts

    Understanding water hardness is important, especially if you want to keep fish or plants with specialized requirements. I recommend testing your local water parameters before you set up an aquarium. That way, you can choose the perfect species to match your conditions.

    However, it is possible to adjust your water hardness with the right materials, techniques, and a little practice. Just be sure to make your changes slowly and carefully to avoid stressing out your fishy friends!

    Do you have a hard or soft water fish tank? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Dwarf Gourami Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices

    Dwarf Gourami Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices

    Gouramis have a calm and peaceful nature. They are beautiful fish with little care that needs no introduction in the aquarium hobby. 

    The Dwarf Gourami is known scientifically as Colisa lalia1. It is indigenous to Pakistan, Bangladesh, Borneo, Myanmar, and Nepal. It may thrive in flooded rice fields and is found in slow-moving streams, lakes, and tributaries of the Ganges and Brahmaputra rivers. 

    As long as Dwarf Gouramis are kept with fish of similar temperaments and tank size, they function well in community tanks. 

    Gouramis are aggressive toward other gouramis despite their timid nature, especially the male gouramis. Therefore, they need ample hiding places. Every gourami builds its area and hiding spot. They prefer heavily planted tanks with a minimum tank size of 10 gallons. I also advise adding floating plants to the gourami tank so they have enough room to hide.

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose suitable tank mates for Dwarf Gouramis so they can live in harmony
    • Dwarf gouramis are a type of labyrinth fish that have a special organ that allows them to take in oxygen from the surface of the tank
    • Since dwarf gouramis are calm fish, they may be kept in community tanks. However, you should be aware that certain fish species may end up harassing the dwarf gourami.

    How To Choose Tank Mates

    Choosing suitable tank mates for Dwarf Gouramis is very important. Since they can get aggressive at times, make sure the tank mates you choose complement the Gourami tank.

    There are a few parameters you need to consider before choosing the right tank mate for your Dwarf gouramis.

    Water Parameters

    • Water Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5 – 7.0
    • Hardness: 50โ€”150 ppm
    • Water flow: Low
    • Tank size: 20 gallons +

    Since Dwarf Gourami is a tropical fish, they require high temperatures to thrice. The ideal temperature range of 75-82ยฐF is preferred.

    Nitrite and ammonia should test negative at 0 ppm. Any type of nitrogenous waste is bad for dwarf gouramis; even nitrate levels need to be carefully watched. The dwarf gouramis prefer slightly acidic water with a pH of 5.5 – 7.0. Stress will be reduced to levels of 10 ppm or less nitrate. To ensure that a fresh aquarium is properly cycled, add dwarf gouramis last to a new aquarium. 

    Temperament

    Tank mates for dwarf gourami should be docile and social fish species of comparable size. Male dwarf gourami may occasionally display semi-aggressive behavior against other fish. However, they lack the aggression to kill them. 

    When no female gouramis are around, male gouramis frequently exhibit aggressive behavior. When your male gourami is trying to win over a female, his colors will likewise be more vibrant. 

    Black Neon Tetra

    Tetras, rasboras, danios, and cherry barbs are a few examples of shy, soft water aquarium fish that make suitable tank mates. Semi-aggressive species like dwarf cichlids, pea puffers, betta fish, and angelfish are also good for bigger aquariums (40+ gallons).

    Size

    Dwarf Gourami does well in community tanks that are 20 gallons in size or larger. They need a serene, peaceful setting. 

    Therefore, avoid placing your aquarium in a busy area if you intend to keep them there. You should also note that the aquarium shouldn’t receive any direct sunlight. There shouldn’t be much movement in the water, and the lighting should be minimal.

    Honey Gourami vs Dwarf Gourami

    Both the honey and the dwarf gourami are beautiful fish species with amazing traits and appearances. Each fish has a unique set of characteristics. If you have trouble deciding which one to get, I’ll list down some important pointers in this section.

    Read on.

    Appearance and Size

    Dwarf gourami and honey dwarf gourami have drastically distinct appearances.

    Firstly, when male honey gourami becomes adult and more mature, they start to display vivid yellow, orange, red, and golden colors. 

    Honey Gourami in Fish Tank

    Comparatively, females have more silver and grey coloring. Since the fins of both sexes frequently resemble each other and male honey gouramis only later tend to develop vivid, distinguishing colors, it can occasionally be challenging to seduce juvenile honey gouramis. 

    Female honey gouramis grow to a maximum of 2 inches, although males often reach 1.5 inches.

    Temperament

    As far as temperament is concerned, dwarf gouramis are considered semi-aggressive fish at times, especially with other male gouramis. Whereas honey gouramis are more peaceful fish, ideal for beginners for a community tank

    It is believed that in a community tank where any fish shows the slightest of aggressive behavior, honey gouramis will hide and feel intimidated by them

    Color Variety

    In terms of color variety and overall beauty, honey gouramis cannot compete with dwarf gouramis.

    Blue, orange, rainbow, and red are just a few of the many hues that dwarf gouramis may have. Dwarf gouramis typically have several colors, which gives them a more appealing appearance than honey gouramis. 

    Males and females both have bright patterns, while females are often more silvery. Because male dwarf gouramis tend to be leaner and shorter and females have a rounder abdomen and a smaller dorsal fin, sexing dwarf gouramis is not difficult. 

    Since dwarf gouramis may reach lengths of up to 4.5 inches, they are larger than honey gouramis and need a larger aquarium.

    Top 15 Aquarium Companions

    Now that you know how to choose the ideal tank mates for your dwarf Gouramis and whether honey gouramis or dwarf gouramis are better for you. 

    Let’s take a look at my favorite list of 15 Dwarf Gouramis tank mates.

    1. Corydoras Catfish 

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name”: Corydoras
    • Adult Size: 2.5 to 12 cm (1.0 to 4.7 in)
    • pH: 6.5 to 7.8
    • Water Temperature: 72 and 82ยฐF.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of 5 or more

    The Corydoras catfish species are well-known across North America. There are over 150 identified species, which are dispersed worldwide. 

    Corydoras catfish are excellent for maintaining in aquariums with other fish of the same type. They coexist quietly and never bother the other fish in the tank. They assist in cleaning the debris and extra food that has been collected at the bottom of the aquarium as they continue to forage for food there.

    As they would join a group with other Corydoras, they are regarded as “social” in the aquarium. Together, they will swim, look for food, and even take breaks. One catfish will often be perched on top of another. They will make friends with other tank mates and live contentedly even if there are no catfish around. In the aquarium, you must keep them together or at least with other fish species of the same kind.

    2. Harlequin Rasboras

    • Scientific Name”: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6.0 to 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 and 81ยฐF.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of 8 to 10

    As a schooling fish, the Harlequin Rasbora should be kept in a reasonable-sized group. A group of twelve Harlequin Rasboras in a fish aquarium is a stunning and lovely sight. Despite being an Asian fish of a different species, it has many traits with little tetras from South America. 

    The Harlequin Rasbora is a perfect fish for a community tank with adorable little fish, but I would steer clear of large or aggressive species. Lemon, Neon, Cardinal, Emperor, Head and Tail, Glowlight, Corydoras Catfish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Dwarf Gourami, Zebra Danios, and other small fish species are examples of companion fish that are suitable for Harlequin Rasboras.

    3. Bristlenose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
    • Adult Size: 4 to 5 inches
    • pH: 6.5 to 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 73 and 80ยฐF.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 to 30 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of 2 to 3

    Because they are the smaller version of the common pleco, bristlenose plecos are frequently preferable for smaller aquariums with like-minded fish species. They can only reach a maximum size of around 5 inches, which is rather comparable to the dwarf gouramis. 

    The fact that Bristlenose plecos are nice and peaceful fish makes them ideal tank mates for dwarf gourami species. They have a five-year lifespan. 

    The majority of their food is herbivore, which is something to keep in mind, but because dwarf gouramis are omnivores, this shouldn’t be too much of an issue. Because they like to hide and swim between barriers in the tank, bristlenose plecos require a sufficient amount of plants and hiding spots.

    4. Cherry Barb

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 to 8
    • Water Temperature: 73 and 81ยฐF.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 25 to 30 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of 5 or more

    Compared to other barbs, the Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya) is a considerably more calm fish. It originates in Sri Lanka (which used to be called Ceylon). It is uncommon in its natural environment, where habitat degradation is a danger. It is a quiet and well-liked, peaceful community fish (schooling fish). 

    Cherry Barbs are omnivores, like the Gourami fish. In the wild, they will consume algae, insect larvae, particularly young mosquitoes, and a variety of other little things. They are simple fish to feed and will consume any typical fish food in the tank. All these factors make them good tank mates for Dwarf Gourami.

    They like the occasional feeding of live food, such as daphnia or wrigglers, like almost other aquarium fish do. Frozen blood worms, for example, are a tasty delicacy.

    5. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • pH: 6 to 8
    • Water Temperature: 72 and 76ยฐF.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of 6 or more

    One of the most popular aquarium fish is the Neon Tetra or Paracheirodon innesi. It can grow to a maximum length of a little over 3cm. Neon Tetras are suitable for an aquarium with other small fish in it. 

    Small Rasboras, tiny tetras, and livebearers like platies, swordtails, and guppies are some fish species that can be excellent tank mates for them. 

    There should be Plants or other covering present in the community tanks. This gives the fish some security and also, these fish species reveal more of themselves around plants. 

    Since the neon fish schools are in groups of four or more, I advise keeping them in groups. Additionally, a group of neon Tetra fish in an aquarium is a stunning sight. The Neon’s colors fade in the dark but immediately return when it is illuminated. 

    Neon Tetra fish feeds on all typical aquarium diets, including flakes. They also benefit from eating dry fried food. 

    6. Cardinal Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • pH: 4.6 to 6.2 range
    • Water Temperature: 73ยฐF to 81ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more

    The Cardinal Tetra originates from the upper Amazon River. Both the environment and the fish are tropical. Unless they can be housed in an environment that never gets chilly, cardinals need hot water. An aquarium heater is a logical choice for heating the water. I advise adjusting the temperature to 24C for Cardinals.

    Cardinal Tetra and Dwarf Gourami are frequently successfully housed, and they appear to be better able to withstand high temperatures. Dwarf Gourami requires different care than neon fish. Additionally, they are slightly larger than Dwarf Gouramis and are less prone to be eaten by them. 

    All large, aggressive fish, Buenos Aires Tetras, and Tiger Barbs are not advisable to keep with Cardinals. There is a considerable risk if you do that, but I am aware of examples where people have successfully kept Cardinals with some of the fish I just mentioned. 

    7. Black Skirt Tetra

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • pH: 6.0 โ€“ 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 78ยฐF โ€“ 82ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more

    Black Skirt Tetras are calm, peaceful fish species. As long as no other fish in the community are particularly hostile, they are peaceful schooling fish and thrive in community fish tanks. 

    The fish swim in teams. As a result, adding many tetras with other tank mates like the Dwarf Gourami to your community tank is a smart idea. The ideal range is four to six.

    8. Molly Fish

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops
    • Adult Size: 3ยฝ to 6 inches
    • pH: 7.5 โ€“ 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 75ยฐ-80ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 4

    Mollies are fish that dwells on the surface and are active. They are available in practically all live fish shops. There are a variety of captive-bred species that can adapt to a variety of water characteristics. Mollies and dwarf gourami can be kept together even though they both prefer harsher water.

    Mollies may also be fairly aggressive when it comes to eating and are extremely swift. They are such chowhounds that it might be challenging for slower fish to reach food quickly enough, not because they intentionally hurt other fish when they are feeding. 

    To give the gourami fish a greater opportunity of snatching a meal away from the voracious mollies, you might want to think about putting food in more than one location.

    9. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.7 inches
    • pH: 4.0-7.0
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82.4ยฐ F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more

    Chili Rasboras are small fish with thin bodies. Although they are very peaceful fish and require a group of at least 10 fish to school, this species is exceptionally appealing. These fish’s crimson hue contrasts beautifully with powder blue dwarf gouramis. 

    Dwarf Gouramis and Chili Rasboras require the same sort of water. Therefore, they go along perfectly. The origin of this fish is Southeast Asia, which explains why their requirements for conditions are so similar.

    10. Zebra Danios

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Danio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 7.0 to 7.8
    • Water Temperature: 64 โ€“ 75 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 or more

    The Zebra Danio fish are small fish that only gets to be approximately 2 inches (5 cm) long. Although it is mostly calm, I have seen enough aggressiveness to classify it as mildly hostile as opposed to serene.

    It is a schooling fish that is more prone to act aggressively when there are fewer tank mates. 

    The Siamese Fighting Fish has been known to be attacked by a school of Zebra Fish, therefore, I would stay away from slow-moving fish with long fins around Zebra Fish. 

    White Cloud Mountain Minnows, the majority of tetras, including Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Emperor Tetras, Black Widow Tetras, tiny Goldfish, Dwarf Gourami, and other fish species of comparable size are all good tank mates for zebrafish. 

    11. Rainbowfish

    Rainbow Fish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Melanotaeniidae
    • Adult Size: 4.7 inches
    • pH: 7.0 to 8.0
    • Water Temperature: 74ยฐ and 78ยฐ F
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 

    There is a solid reason why rainbow fish are adored in the aquarium hobby all around the world. These fish are serene and lovely. They are freshwater fish that have their roots in Southeast Asia and Australia. 

    Rainbow tropical fish are not only attractive, but they also get along well with many different aquarium freshwater fish species. 

    Finding tropical freshwater fish that get along with rainbow fish is frequently a challenge; even tetras have a reputation for occasionally biting fins. Guppies, angel fish, rasboras, and loaches are some other fish that are similarly unconcerned. They are incredibly patient creatures who are also rather hardy, which makes them a good tank mate for Dwarf Gourami as well.

    12. Otocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus
    • Adult Size: 1 1/2 โ€“ 2 inches
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 6 

    The Dwarf Suckermouth Catfish, also known as the Otocinclus Catfish, is one of the most popular algae-eating fish for small aquariums, but they do have certain possible issues that are important to be aware of before purchasing.

    At first, they might be challenging to keep as they are captured from the wild. Unfortunately, pet shops and distributors frequently treat them poorly. The poor tiny oto cats are underfed and may be nearly dead by the time they reach a display tank in a store.

    The active and healthy Oto cats must be kept in groups of at least five. 

    13. Kuhli Loach

    The Kuhli loach belongs to the family Cobitidae. They are also known as Pangio kuhli or Acanthophthalmus kuhli. Kuhli loach are native to Indonesia. You can also find them in Singapore, Malaysia, Borneo, and Java.

    The bodies of kuhli loaches are long and eel-like without scales. They frequently have bands down the length of their bodies that alternate between light and dark colors. They resemble a snake more than a fish because of the way the form and color bands combine. Kuhli loach is a bottom dweller and unquestionably one of the aquarium’s most intriguing additions.

    14. Glass Catfish (Ghost Fish)

    Glass Catfish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Kryptopterus vitreolus
    • Adult Size: 3.1 inches
    • pH: 6.6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 77ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 5 or more

    Even though Glass Catfish is mainly a predator, it goes along with other fish as long as they are not in its very small mouth. While any reasonably sized adult fish, including tiny Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, Green Neon Tetras, and Dwarf Gourami are safe, they will undoubtedly consume newborn fish. 

    Others that make good aquarium mates are Diamond Tetras, Splashing Tetras, White Cloud Mountain Minnows, Cherry Barbs, Penguin Tetras, Pristella Tetras, Glowlight Tetras, Red Eye Tetras, Silvertip Tetras, Gold Barbs, Rummy Nose Tetras, Scissortail Rasboras, Emperor Tetras, Head and Tail Light Tetras, Glass Bloodfin Tetras, Swordtails. 

    15. Amano Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 to 7.5 pH
    • Water Temperature: 64ยฐ to 80ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Dwarf gourami Fry? Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Group of at least 5 

    If you’re keen on keeping shrimps in your aquarium, Amano shrimp is a good tank mate for Dwarf Gourami.

    Amanos are too big to fit in a dwarf gouramis mouth. Thus, eating shrimp becomes too challenging for your Dwarf Gouramis.

    Also, Amano Shrimps are really good at getting out of the way quickly if they have to.

    Amanos hide a lot and they seem more aware of where they go and how they move. Additionally, dwarf gouramis don’t really hunt and attack like that so there are fewer chances of accidents.

    FAQs

    What fish live well with this type of fish?

    Dwarf Gourami goes well with small, peaceful fish that don’t attack or bully them. Dwarf gouramis don’t become that big, as their name suggests.

    They are also rather timid, even though they occasionally display aggression toward other males of the same species.ย 

    The ideal tank mates are:
    Neon tetra
    Cardinal tetra
    Harlequin Rasbora
    Glass catfish
    Amano shrimp
    Zebra danios

    Can they live with other fish?

    Yes, even though Dwarf gourami is not schooling fish, if given adequate space, certain species can be housed alongside another gourami of the same sort. They are territorial toward other Anabantoids, but if each has adequate space for a territory, they may cohabit happily.

    Are they aggressive?

    In contrast to the much bigger regular gourami, which may become aggressive, dwarf gouramis are mostly docile fish. Dwarf gouramis thrive in most community aquariums and get along well with most species, including Tetras, Mollies, Ghost Catfish, Platies, and Plecostomus.

    Can they go in a community tank?

    The dwarf gourami, a small freshwater fish with vivid colors, is a great addition to the community tank. The dwarf gourami is the ideal community fish if you want a fish that gets along well with other peaceful species.

    How many gouramis should be together?

    Dwarf Gourami is not schooling fish but thrives in a community of at leastย ten other fish. As a result, trying to keep them in a smaller tank prevents them from having enough space to swim around and learn. They need some open swimming places but will happily weave in and out of heavily planted regions.

    Are they good with other fish?

    Yes, Dwarf Gourami are good with many fish species such as Neon Tetras, Cardinal Tetras, ghost fish, Ghost shrimp, Amano shrimp, and other suitable tank mates.

    How big do they get?

    Dwarf Gourami fish species may grow to a maximum length ofย 8.8 cm (3.5 in).ย In the wild, male dwarf gouramis have diagonal stripes that alternate between blue and red hues; females are silvery in appearance.

    Final Thoughts

    Dwarf Gouramis are docile, friendly freshwater fish that shouldn’t be kept with any larger, more aggressive fish. They also shouldn’t be housed with fish that reproduce and become territorial, such as cichlids, as these fish would pester the gourami nonstop while guarding their young. 

    When needed, hiding spaces will be established because they are frequently territorial among one another.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How Do Eels Reproduce? (Hint – Nobody Knows How!)

    How Do Eels Reproduce? (Hint – Nobody Knows How!)

    One of the most fascinating mysteries of the underwater community is the reproductive processes of both marine and freshwater eels. Specifically, the European eel (Anguilla anguilla) has confounded philosophers, naturalists, and scientists for decades. It was long believed that male eels lacked reproductive organs and thus couldn’t create offspring. The truth of eel reproduction is much more complex than this, though.

    Thousands of eels were dissected, tracked, and studied to understand their reproductive and lifecycle processes, but the evidence was scarce and only theories remained. If eels lacked reproductive organs since the time of their evolution, how did they survive as a species? It wasn’t until the 20th century that these simple eel questions began to be answered.

    Before deep-diving into how eels continue to live and reproduce, we need to first understand what eels are, where they come from, and eventually, how they reproduce.

    What Are Eels?

    If you’re not familiar at all with eels, then they’ll initially look otherworldly. Are they fish? Are they snakes? Or are they something new altogether?

    Don’t be fooled, these are actually thin, almost finless fish that belong to the Anguilliformes order. Within this scientific order are 8 suborders and almost 800 species! Both saltwater and freshwater eels belong to this scientific order, though not every fish that’s labeled as an ‘eel’ is a true eel!

    If you are familiar with eels at all, then you may have heard of the electric eel (Electrophorus spp.) which is capable of delivering a deadly shock. While these fish certainly look like true eels, they are actually more closely related to knife fish as members of the Gymnotiformes order.

    Fire Eel in driftwood

    Although freshwater eels and saltwater eels look very different from each other and their related genera, there are a few defining features that make them true eels of the Anguilliformes order.

    Anguilliformes are ray-finned fish. But unlike other fish, eels lack pelvic fins entirely and most species don’t have pectoral fins. Eels also have a conjoined dorsal and anal fin that makes a singular, long fin that extends across the latter half of their body. Interestingly, this evolution also allows these fish to swim backward. Another defining feature of eels is that some species have small scales while others have incorporated scales into their skin. Some may lack scales entirely.

    Anglers and other eel-handlers especially note their ability to produce slime, which is a defense mechanism against predators and pathogens. Eels have sharp teeth fixed in their mouths, with some species having a second jaw known as the pharyngeal jaw. The first set of jaws is thought to specialize in catching the prey while the second set processes the food and moves it along to the digestive tract.

    True eels can be found in freshwater and marine ecosystems around the world. Some species are catadromous which means that they migrate from one body of water to another. As we’ll see, some species of eel, especially those in the Anguillidae family, make extensive journeys from freshwater ecosystems to purely saltwater conditions.

    An example of a true eel is the European freshwater eel. This species of freshwater eel lacks scales and breathes through its skin. This unique ability makes them able to survive out of water for up to 48 hours! European freshwater eels can also bury themselves and hibernate in the mud over the winter months; this is also needed when their natural habitats dry out over the summer.

    Where Do They Come From?

    Fish have been around for a long time which means that they’ve been studied for a long time. So much so that even ancient Greek philosophers devoted their entire lives to understanding their origins, especially the beginnings of eels and their reproductive processes. Surprisingly, the great Aristotle contributed much thought to these lifecycles.

    According to Aristotle, eels materialized from mud and were actually a type of earthworm. This became a popular theory as no one had ever seen eels reproduce and there was no other reasonable explanation; this also eliminated the need to explain their apparent absence of reproductive organs.

    Aristotle Bust Photo

    It’s hard to believe that this exact explanation for eel reproduction persisted for over 2,000 years, but few dared to challenge the findings of Aristotle.

    It wasn’t until Pliny the Edler, a Roman naturalist and natural philosopher, theorized another answer to eel reproduction. He believed that new eels were born from the old shed skins of parent eels that scratched themselves on hard surfaces, like on the seafloor and on rocks. Each scraping would turn into a new eel.

    Other popular beliefs included eels being born from sea foam or from when sunlight reflected off the surface of the water in just the right way. Some even thought that eels hatched on the rooftops of great buildings or derived from the gills of other fish. The more absurd theories mentioned the involvement of beetles and hair from horses falling into the river.

    Many centuries later, famous psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud took a stab at uncovering the mystery of eel reproduction. In 1876, while a medical student at the University of Vienna, Freud bought as many eels as possible. After 400 dissections, Freud finally located the male eel’s gonads deep within the abdominal cavity, dispelling any previous theories!

    Geography

    This was a major breakthrough in understanding eel reproduction and their lifecycle.

    You might be saying to yourself that you’ve never actually seen an eel in the wild. This isn’t because eels aren’t abundant, but rather because they’re reclusive and nocturnal.

    When not migrating thousands of miles, these fish like to stay as elusive as possible, cramming themselves into tight caves and rock formations, burying themselves in the substrate, or even living together in communities known as eel pits.

    In freshwater ecosystems, they can be found on nearly every continent excluding Antarctica in rivers, lakes, streams, and even ponds. Keep in mind that some eels are able to move across land, allowing them to enter isolated areas of water. Marine eels have a much larger range and can be found in most regions of the ocean at varying depths.

    How Do They Reproduce?

    The long-asked and long-evaded question: how do eels reproduce? Even today, after thousands of theories and anatomical dissections, there are many unknowns about the lives of eels.

    To help understand how eels reproduce, we need to first look at the 5 incredibly complex stages of an eel’s life cycle.

    5 Stages Of Their Life Cycle

    The lifecycle of an eel is divided into 5 distinct stages. Each one marks different biological and sexual maturity levels of the eel. Most notably, sex organs develop in the later stages.

    1. Larvae
    2. Glass Eel
    3. Elver
    4. Yellow Eel
    5. Silver Eel

    You can see an illustration of the life cycle in the photo below (Wikipedia photo source)

    Eel Life Cycle

    The Larvae

    The first stage of an eel’s lifecycle is the larval stage, individually known as leptocephalus. In this phase, the baby eel emerges from its fertilized egg in or near its species’ breeding grounds.

    Leptocephalus are largely transparent. They have radically compressed bodies with minimal muscles and organs. One of their most defining features is a simple stripe that runs down the middle of their pane-like body. During the next metamorphosis period from larva to glass eel, the transparent gel changes into solid adult tissue.

    Interestingly, leptocephali feed on marine snow and other organic matter to facilitate growth. They are largely planktonic and depend on ocean currents to get them to where they need to go, mostly estuaries and other safe coastal ecosystems. Once in an intertidal region, they begin their transformation into glass eels.

    Glass

    The transformation from leptocephalus to glass eel is both a geographical and physical change. As leptocephali, eel larvae live in the ocean. As they begin their metamorphosis into glass eels, they must make their way into protected estuaries where freshwater and saltwater ecosystems mix. This is a challenging move and many eels do not survive due to their lack of control over their navigation.

    Glass Eel

    Physically, leptocephali start to change into more recognizable glass eels. One of the major changes during this life stage is the development of pigmentation which takes over the previous clear gel. But underneath their skin, there is another major change happening.

    A regular fish’s body needs to osmotically adapt to changes in salinity, like the differences between freshwater and saltwater conditions; typically, when marine fish enter brackish water, their cells begin to swell as there is a difference in osmotic pressure. Eels have evolved to combat this problem with specialized kidneys that are able to retain more salt to better match their internal salinity to their external salinity.

    Elvers

    The next stage of an eel’s life cycle is the elver stage. This is the pre-adult stage that occurs once the eel is about 2 to 3 years old. The elver will have dark yellow pigmentation and reach up to 8 inches in length. If they’ve not already made their way upstream to freshwater rivers and streams, then young elvers will begin their journey.

    At this point, the eels are omnivores and will try to eat anything they can fit into their mouth. This largely includes crustaceans, worms, and insects. Elvers and the next lifecycle, yellow eels, can stay in these freshwater upstream regions of rivers for up to 20 years until they are mature enough to migrate back out to the ocean. Many eel species return to the Sargasso Sea to spawn, though this varies by species.

    Sadly, elvers are a very popular dish that has caused issues with eel sustainability in the past.

    Yellow

    Before becoming a silver eel, or an adult eel, elvers must first become a yellow eel. This is when the pigmentation turns even darker and their true adult colors start to form, including brown, olive green, yellow, and black. These colors will largely depend on environmental factors, such as temperature and turbidity. At this point, juvenile eels can measure over 30 inches in length.

    Yellow eels will continue to live in and move from one freshwater ecosystem to the next until they’re ready to transform into their final life stage, the silver eel.

    Silver or Adult

    Believe it or not, not much is known about adult eels, also known as silver eels. Scientists aren’t sure what determines when eels transition into their final form. This is even more complicated by being unable to tell how old an eel is by its appearance alone at this point. One thing is understood though, eels aren’t considered fully mature until they develop sex organs in the last stage of their life cycle as an adult eel.

    As adult eels, males can reach 2 feet in length while females can grow up to 4 or more feet. They change drastically in color from dark natural colors to steel silver. Only as adults is when eels are mature enough to make the trip to the Sargasso Sea or other spawning grounds depending on the species.

    How Do They Mate In The Wild

    When talking about eel reproduction, you’ll often hear about the Sargasso Sea. The Sargasso Sea encompasses Bermuda (including the infamous Bermuda Triangle), the Azores, and the West Indies. This area of the Atlantic Ocean is a 2-million-square-mile span of saltwater that is home to the breeding grounds of millions of eels. Most notably, freshwater European and American eels make this thousand-mile journey.

    When male and female eels arrive at their specific breeding grounds, it is believed that eels reproduce through external fertilization. This means that the females release millions of eggs that then get fertilized by the males’ sperm. Sadly, the adult eels die soon after. The eggs then get fertilized and repeat the previous lifecycles, making their way back to North America and Europe respectively. Other species of eel have different, yet still specific breeding grounds.

    Different Types

    Remember, there are 800 species of known eel around the world! Imagine how many there are undiscovered if scientists couldn’t even identify their sexual organs for thousands of years.

    The truth is that a lot is still unknown about eels and new species are still being discovered. Even the species that we have documented are not fully understood.

    Here are some of the most well-known species of freshwater eel.

    European

    The European eel is a common type of freshwater eel that can live to be 85 years old in the wild and 55 years old in captivity! Unfortunately, they are listed as a critically endangered species due to overfishing, parasites, and other human activity.

    These fish feature a pair of small pectoral fins and have the typical snake-like body. They grow to between 2 to 3 feet in length. As catadromous fish, European eels spend their adult lives in freshwater rivers and streams throughout much of Europe and migrate to saltwater conditions to reproduce. This particular species travels to the Sargasso Sea in the Atlantic Ocean.

    Interestingly, European eels don’t stop traveling upstream until they’re sexually mature. They’ve been found in seasonal ecosystems that dry up over hot months and in isolated lakes and ponds, confirming their ability to travel over land and to survive for extended periods buried in the substrate.

    Many breeding programs have been installed to help declining numbers of the European eel with slight success using hormones and controlled conditions.

    Shortfin and Longfin

    Two more common types of eels originate from New Zealand: the longfin eel (Anguilla dieffenbachii) and the shortfin eel (Anguilla australis). The longfin eel is endangered while the shortfin eel is near threatened.

    Like European eels, longfin and shortfin eels can live for a considerably long time. They are found in freshwater streams and lakes and make their way to regions in the Pacific Ocean for spawning. Longfin eels are found further inland in New Zealand than shortfin eels, but shortfin eels can also be found in several other countries across the South Pacific.

    These two fish also have different breeding grounds. Longfin eels travel to areas near Tonga while shortfin eels migrate to deep waters around New Caledonia. Every female can produce up to 20 million eggs!

    Longfin eels are aptly named for their lengthy fins. Their dorsal fin is almost two-thirds the length of their body. Shortfin eels have a similar appearance but have a fin that starts farther away from the head. Another difference is that when a longfin eel bends, wrinkles form on its skin; a shortfin eel’s skin will remain smooth. Females are notably larger and live longer than males.

    Japanese

    Japanese eels (Anguilla japonica) are mainly found in Japan, Korea, China, and Vietnam. Like the other types of eel on this list, Japanese eels also spawn in the sea but spend a large majority of their lives in freshwater.

    When the time comes, Japanese eels travel to the North Equatorial Current in the western North Pacific. Throughout this long journey, Japanese eels do not eat. Instead, they collect all the nutrients they need through a specialized oil before making the trip.

    These fish feature a dull grey, brown, and greenish dorsal on top of a white underbelly, though these colors depend on environmental factors.

    Sadly, Japanese eel populations are decreasing due to changing ocean temperatures, habitat loss, and fluctuating salinities. Japenese eels are also a popular culinary dish, popularly known as unagi, though regulations have been implemented to reduce overharvesting and to encourage supplementation. As a result, they are listed as an endangered species.

    The African Longfin

    The African longfin eel (Anguilla mossambica) is another common type of eel, though not much is known about them. They have olive, gray, and black bodies with a light underside. They prefer fast currents in the western Indian Ocean off of Africa.

    They eat a variety of fish and invertebrates, but will also scavenge.

    Difference Between Freshwater and Saltwater

    There are freshwater eels and there are saltwater eels, but most freshwater eels spend some time in saltwater conditions. Where marine eels live in the ocean can vary, with some preferring coastal lagoons and others enjoying the open sea. Some species even dig into the mud and sand.

    Snowflake Eel in Aquarium

    The major difference between freshwater and saltwater eels is body texture and appearance. Freshwater eels have a firmer texture, while saltwater eels are softer and leaner. Most saltwater eels are also much more colorful than freshwater eels, making them a very popular addition to the marine aquarium.

    For the adventurous eel connoisseur, freshwater and marine species also have different tastes.

    How Do They Survive Migration?

    You might be wondering how eels survive for thousands of miles as they transition from freshwater to saltwater. What do they eat? When do they sleep? How do they know where to go?

    In fact, most eels don’t eat on their way to their final destination. In most cases, their stomach deteriorates. The blood vessels around the swim bladder increase for additional support while swimming. Their eyes also double in size, which increases sensitivity to blue waves of light, increasing their ability to see in the dark. Their kidneys also adapt to hold more salt to increase internal salinity levels to compensate for their surrounding salinity changes.

    European eel migration is one of the longest migrations documented by any marine creature. They typically start their migration in autumn and arrive at the Sargasso Sea in late winter and spring. This journey is approximately 3,000 miles long and can range from 80 to 170 days.

    It is believed that eels use every sense they have to navigate their journey. It’s also strongly believed that they rely on lunar cycles and wait for the perfect conditions in regard to temperature, salinity, tides, and currents, to make their move.

    What About Captivity?

    Because of their complex lifecycles, eels have not been bred in the home aquarium. Many researchers and hobbyists have attempted artificial breeding, but nothing can replicate the years spent in freshwater, transition to saltwater, and external fertilization.No one has ever seen captive eels breeding in a home aquarium. They have a complex life cycle, and their sexual organs only develop at the last stage. Also, they spend months and years traveling to the spawning ground present in the Sargasso Sea, where once eel eggs and sperm are realized, the fish die. Those free-floating eggs get externally fertilized.

    Indian Mud Moray Eel

    That isn’t to say that researchers aren’t close, though. In fact, some species of eel have been successfully bred in closely monitored systems with the help of hormones and fluctuating parameters. However, the full lifecycle of an eel has never been achieved in captivity.Many people tried different artificial ways to breed mature eels in a home aquarium but to no avail.

    Their Lifespan

    Eels are very hard to kill. They are built to withstand extreme differences in environmental conditions and have a very long lifespan. Their blood is poisonous and they have been known to swim for hours on end even with their head cut off.

    However, any traces of toxic ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in the aquarium can cause your freshwater or saltwater eel to succumb to unfavorable environmental factors.

    FAQs

    Do They Have A Reproductive System?

    This exact question puzzled philosophers and scientists for hundreds of years. Even after thousands of dissections, it was unclear how eels could reproduce if young males lacked sexual organs. However, it isn’t until males and females reach full sexual maturity that they develop these organs deep within their abdominal cavities.

    So, yes, eels have a reproductive system but it doesn’t develop or become evident until much later in their lives.

    What About In Captivity?

    Eels have not been fully bred in captivity, though some life stages have been achieved. It is too difficult to replicate external fertilization where a female releases millions of eggs and has them fertilized by a male. It is also impossible to recreate the incredible growth and migration these fish make from freshwater to saltwater to their spawning grounds over the course of decades.

    Do They Lay Eggs Or Give Live Birth?

    Yes, female eels lay eggs which males then fertilize through external fertilization. As soon as they are done spawning, the mature eels die. A fun fact is that electric eels (not true eels) reproduce during the dry season by the female depositing eggs into a saliva nest made by the male.

    As soon as they have done spawning, the mature will die.

    Unlike real eels, electric eels reproduce during the dry season. The females deposit the eggs in a hidden nest made of saliva by the males.

    Closing Thoughts

    Eels are some of the most complex aquatic creatures but you wouldn’t know that from their simple snake-like appearance. For years, it was impossible to know the complex life stages these fish go through while transitioning from freshwater to saltwater. While we’re still not exactly sure how eels go through these stages and make their migrations, we will make those dissections over time.

    Do you have any theories about how eels reproduce? Let us know your thoughts below! Let us know your thoughts below! Subscribe to our YouTube channel for more crazy videos.

  • African Cichlid Tank Mates (7 Great Choices)

    African Cichlid Tank Mates (7 Great Choices)

    Are you looking to add some variety and โ€˜oomphโ€™ to your African cichlid tank? With the right companions, an African cichlid tank can provide a vibrant display of unique colors, life-like behavior, and fun interactions. Check out the top 7 ideal African Cichlid tank mates โ€•all of which are sure to make any fish enthusiast smile! Each companion has been researched and vetted in order to ensure that they fit well with African cichlids while taking into account their specific needs so that you have peace of mind knowing your fish will have a safe environment in which to thrive.

    Key Takeaways

    • African cichlids are aggressive fish that need to be kept in water parameters that resemble those in their natural habitat.
    • Not many species can be kept in the same tank as African cichlids due to their extreme aggression and preferred water conditions. Even closely related species of African cichlid might cause problems with each other.
    • There are a few limited species that can safely be kept with African cichlids as tank mates.

    Introduction To African Cichlids

    When deciding what kind of fish to keep in your freshwater aquarium, you’ll be forced to choose between a community tank or an aggressive one. Those who don’t choose to go with community oftentimes find themselves with an impressive African cichlid setup.

    It’s no wonder why African cichlids aquariums are so popular. These fish are big and beautiful and have interesting behaviors. Though they require a bigger tank than their community counterparts, their care requirements are relatively easy and straightforward.

    African cichlids originate from some of the oldest freshwater lakes in the world, including Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi, and Lake Victoria. Many of the species in these African lakes have undergone divergent evolution over millions of years. This implies that one common ancestor evolved and adapted to different depths, parameters, and conditions within these ecosystems to create new species.

    There are thought to be as many as 2,500 known members of the Cichlidae family around the world, with many unnamed and yet to be discovered.

    Stocking A Tank

    With so many species to choose from, it’s no wonder that the African cichlid quickly made its way into the home aquarium hobby.

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    One of the most common African cichlid setups is a 55-gallon tank featuring several lake species or a variety of one species. This tank should have good filtration as these fish can grow to a reasonable size. Decoration should be minimal yet sturdy, as cichlids are notorious for rearranging their environments; natural rocks, driftwood, and clay pots are preferred for shelter.

    Most hobbyists use a bare bottom or crushed coral substrate that helps boost pH levels. African cichlids originate from hard, basic water parameters that need to be replicated in the home aquarium. Many hobbyists achieve this through a calcium carbonate substrate, though pH-boosting powders and liquids are regularly used as well.

    Once the tank has been set up and cycled, it’s time to start thinking about which species you want to keep in the tank. While many cichlid enthusiasts only keep different types of cichlid in their tanks, others attempt to keep other fish species altogether.

    There are a few things to keep in mind when keeping either other cichlid tank mates or other species, like tank size, water parameters, and aggression.

    Things To Consider

    It’s important to ask the question of if and why you want to keep species other than African cichlids. These are beautiful, active fish that naturally provide variety and excitement. Introducing other species is always a risk due to the natural aggression of cichlids.

    Cichlids are large, aggressive fish that need adequate swimming space and ground to claim territory. The bare minimum tank size recommended for a cichlid tank is 55 gallons, with a 75-gallon tank setup providing much more comfortable space. Based on the size and aggression of individual fish, this may or may not be enough buffering to keep fish safe from one another, which could limit the number of potential tank mates.

    If planning to keep tank mates outside the Cichlidae family, it’s recommended to have an aquarium that is at least 125 gallons. As we’ll see, many potential cichlid tank mates grow to extreme sizes on their own, requiring a larger tank.

    It’s also important to consider the natural habitat of African cichlids. Though they come from isolated ecosystems, conditions change across different regions of the given lake. In general, African cichlids prefer hard, basic water parameters. This is in contrast to most another freshwater tropical fish that originate from soft, acidic conditions.

    Lastly, aggression will determine which tank mates do and do not work. This is true for the demeanor of the individual cichlid and given tank mate.

    The Best Tank Mates

    Though African cichlids are regularly kept in cichlid-only tanks, there are a few options once tank size, water conditions, and aggression levels have been matched. Even if you choose to keep only African cichlids, there are still a few considerations when putting different species together.

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go over more detail in our blog post below. If you like our content, make sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week!

    Here are some of the best tank mate options available for African cichlids tank setups!

    1. Other Types

    The best tank mates for African cichlids are other African cichlids. However, there are some hard rules that need to be considered when mixing these fish.

    Blue Peacock Cichlid

    African cichlids originate from massive lakes where varieties of the same species might not ever interact. Now take into consideration the differences in appearance and behavior between entire species found at separate ends of the given lake. There are simply too many differences between African cichlids to say they are all compatible.

    The key differences between these fish are size, activity, and aggression. Some fish stay relatively still while others zoom around the tank. Though all cichlids have an aggressive nature, some actively seek out fights while others wait to defend their territories.

    There are many species of African cichlids (and many more yet to be discovered). Some of the most popular ones are from the following genera:

    • Melanochromis
    • Pseudotropheus
    • Aulonocara
    • Neolamprologus
    • Sciaenochromis
    • Haplochromis
    • Cyphotilapia

    It is very common to keep species-only tanks featuring peacock cichlids (Aulonocara spp.), hap cichlids (Haplochromis), or Mbuna cichlids which is a general group of cichlids from Lake Malawi. Other hobbyists pick specific regions of African lakes and stock according to the endemic species of that area.

    There are many combinations that do and do not work. Some tried, and true tank mate pairings don’t work because of an especially aggressive fish. Tank mates should be researched thoroughly and added together for the best chances of success. It also helps to pick fish that are generally the same size and different colors.

    How Many Should You Keep Together?

    African cichlids are big fish that need space. How many cichlids you can keep per tank will vary, especially if keeping other fish species. However, a typical 55-gallon cichlid aquarium setup can hold about 10 to 15 cichlids.

    2. Jewel Cichlid

    Female Jewel Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Hemichromis bimaculatus
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Western Africa
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    The jewel cichlid is one of the most attractive African cichlids available. These fish are bright red with small, iridescent blue flecks.

    Though jewel cichlids are a type of African cichlid, they’re not compatible with most other endemic species. This is because these otherwise semi-aggressive fish turn into overly aggressive fish whenever they spawn. Jewel cichlids have known fin nippers and will fight to the death to defend their young.

    There is some debate about whether or not jewel cichlids should be kept with other cichlids. There is a lot that can and has gone wrong. However, hobbyists have found success keeping jewel cichlids in the same tank with more aggressive African cichlids, like Mbuna species.

    3. Paratilapia polleni

    • Scientific name: Paratilapia polleni
    • Temperament: Aggressive to smaller fish
    • Origin: Madagascar
    • Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore (naturally a piscivore)
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Sometimes called the starry night cichlid (video source), Paratilapia polleni is a relatively peaceful species of East African cichlid. These speckled near-black fish are endangered and the last remaining species of their genus. This can make them relatively difficult and expensive to obtain in the hobby.

    Paratilapia polleni are large fish that are mainly piscivores in the wild, meaning that most of their diet is made up of smaller fish. The problem is that these African cichlids can grow to be a foot in length, leaving many fish to be smaller than them. As long as tank mates can’t easily fit into the mouth of your Paratilapia polleni, there shouldn’t be too many problems keeping them with other African cichlids.

    4. Synodontis Catfish

    Pictus Catfish Swimming
    • Scientific name: Synodontis spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Africa
    • Size: Varies
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.5-9.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Cichlids aren’t the only fish present in African lakes. Synodontis catfish are found in central and west African ecosystems, with notable populations in Lake Tanganyika and Lake Malawi. Some popular species for the cichlid aquarium include:

    • Cuckoo catfish (Synodontis multipunctatus)
    • Dwarf Lake/False cuckoo Synodontis (Synodontis petricola)
    • Malawi squeaker (Synodontis njassae)

    These catfish are ideal as they come from the same ecosystems as cichlids, but at different depths; Synodontis catfish live on the bottom while cichlids stay higher up in the water column. In the aquarium, these fish need to be given plenty of hiding places. They also prefer to be in small shoals or at least 3 or 4.

    5. Rainbowfish

    Lake Tebera Rainbowfish
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Australia and New Guinea
    • Size: 4-5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    An unlikely pairing, rainbowfish and African cichlids have been known to live harmoniously together. Rainbowfish are large and fast yet peaceful fish that can easily outmaneuver or intimidate a cichlid when in a school with others.

    Their size, speed, and tolerance to more basic water conditions make rainbowfish a great potential tank mate for African cichlids. Rainbowfish can be thought of as a dither fish species for cichlids as they lessen aggression and encourage natural behavior.

    Not all rainbowfish can be tank mates for African cichlids, though. Boeseman’s rainbowfish (Melanotaenia boesemani) is the best species to pick.

    6. Pleco Fish

    Blue Eye Pleco
    • Scientific name: Hypostomus spp., Ancistrus spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: Varies
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Pleco species aren’t usually recommended for aquarium use, but they tend to make perfect tank mate options for a cichlid aquarium. These South American fish have been bred in the aquarium to endure various water parameters, including those harder and more basic ones preferred by African cichlids.

    Plecos are armored fish that spend most of their time hidden under rocks and branches on the substrate floor. While these fish have excellent camouflage, chosen plecos should still be several inches in length to be able to defend themselves from especially aggressive cichlids.

    Common plecos kept in cichlid tank setups include the common pleco (Hypostomus plecostomus) and some bristlenose species (Ancistrus spp.).

    7. Red Tail Shark

    What Does A Redtail Shark Look Like
    • Scientific name: Epalzeorhynchos bicolor
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive to aggressive
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    The red-tail shark is a problematic fish within the tropical community fish hobby. They are often misidentified as calmer and more peaceful rainbow sharks (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), leaving unknowing hobbyists with very aggressive fish as they can be incompatible tank mates.

    Red-tail sharks are small and fast. They can easily find coverage in a sheltered area from a predator, though they’re very likely to try to fight back. These freshwater sharks are extremely territorial and have successfully been kept with some of the less aggressive species of an African cichlid.

    The problem is that redtail sharks can’t tolerate a high pH level. The red tail shark originates from detritus-rich freshwater rivers and streams in Southeast Asia, which is a very different environment from that of African cichlid species. To make these two work as tank mates, the pH must stay at the upper range for the red-tail shark and the lower range for the African cichlid at about 7.5.

    Fish To Avoid

    Unfortunately, there are more fish that can’t be added to African cichlid tanks than there are good tank mates. Many fish available in the hobby can’t tolerate the hard and basic water that African cichlids need. On top of that, cichlids try to kill almost every small and docile fish that comes near them. Both these factors considered leaves very few tank mate options available.

    Still, some fish species should be avoided entirely.

    Most Community Freshwater Fish

    As mentioned before, most community freshwater fish are incompatible with African cichlid species. This is largely due to differences in preferred water parameters and aggression levels.

    School of Rasboras

    Most freshwater fish originate from South America or Southeast Asia where water is very soft and acidic. This is very different from the higher hardness and pH levels preferred by African cichlids.

    A freshwater fish tank is also set up much differently than one meant for cichlids. Freshwater fish love plenty of hiding spots with natural decor like live plants. While cichlids come from a very open and rocky terrain, freshwater fish like to hide in and around vegetation.

    Lastly, many freshwater fish have peaceful demeanors. They rely on schooling behaviors to keep them safe from predators instead of being actively aggressive. Cichlids establish territories they will defend to death, especially during spawning periods, and won’t hesitate to attack and kill other fish.

    Goldfish

    Goldfish cannot be kept with any tropical fish, including African cichlids. Goldfish are coldwater fish with very exact and limited tank mates due to their preference for low temperatures and their high waste output. On top of that, many fancy goldfish are poor swimmers that would easily get beat up by an African cichlid.

    Koi

    For the same reasons why goldfish can’t be African cichlid tank mates, koi should also be avoided. Koi are coldwater fish that need low temperatures and good filtration due to their high waste output. Due to their size and activity level, they are best kept in pond settings.

    Corydoras Catfish

    Corydoras catfish might seem like a good tank mate option for African cichlids due to their speed and safety in numbers as bottom feeders, but they are not. Corydoras largely originate from blackwater ecosystems throughout South America. In addition to their preference for softer and acid water, they also prefer lower water temperatures which are incompatible with cichlids.

    Corydoras also stay relatively small, making them easy to eat for larger fish despite being kept in big schools.

    American Cichlids

    While many cichlids are native to Africa, an entirely different selection of fish is available from South America, including Central America. Some of these fish include members of the Mikrogeophagus, Apistogramma, and Symphysodon genera.

    Many South American cichlids, especially dwarf cichlids, can be kept with freshwater community species due to their generally peaceful demeanors. This is in direct contrast to African cichlids’ aggressive and incompatible temperament. As species from South America, these fish also prefer different water parameters from their African counterparts.

    While it is usually a hard no to keep African and South American cichlids together, hobbyists have succeeded in keeping some species together. This should only be attempted by expert cichlid-keepers.

    Can You Mix in Angelfish?

    Did you know that freshwater angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) are a type of cichlid? These fish don’t look like any other cichlid species and have a very calm demeanor in comparison, but they’re a type of South American cichlid.

    Angelfish are moderately difficult fish to keep due to their long fins and slow movement. Even community fish tanks struggle to find compatible tank mates. That being said, African cichlids are not good tank mates for angelfish due to their large difference in behaviors and temperaments. However, some hobbyists have had success keeping angelfish with other South American cichlids.

    Final Thoughts

    African cichlids are large, beautiful fish that can quickly fill up an aquarium. The problem is that not many suitable tank mates can be safely kept with them, deterring some hobbyists from keeping a species-only setup. Even then, some African cichlids have problems with each other, which can lead to gruesome death.

    Luckily, several species have been found to be good tank mates for African cichlids. Long-term success will largely depend on the individual personalities of the fish, though.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Neon Tetra Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices

    Neon Tetra Tank Mates – 15 Great Choices

    Are you looking for some great new friends for your neon tetras? These colorful fish are one of the best community species in the aquarium hobby because of their peaceful and easy-going nature. Choosing the perfect tank mates for your fish can be stressful, and that’s exactly why I’ve written this article.

    Read along for some great neon tetra tank mates and loads of other useful tips. Let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Neon tetras need to be kept in a group to thrive. Six should be the bare minimum, but ten or more is a better choice.
    • You can mix different species of neon tetras – just make sure you have enough of each species to form their own schools.
    • Avoid any tank mates that are large enough to eat neon tetras.
    • Neon tetras prefer acidic to neutral water. Avoid tank mates that need hard, alkaline water.

    Choosing NEON TETRA Tank Mates – A Word Of Caution

    Neon tetras get along with loads of other tropical fish, but there are just as many species that don’t make good tank mates. So how do you choose?

    Size

    Neon Tetras are very small fish with a maximum size of about 1.25 inches. At this size, many larger fish can (and will) swallow them whole!

    Most popular aquarium species are omnivorous or carnivorous fish, so choosing similar-sized tank mates is always a good idea. There are exceptions, but most fish that grow over 3 or 4 inches will be risky.

    Neon tetras can be housed in tanks as small as 10 gallons on their own, but bigger is better if you want to keep more than one species. 15 gallons will work, but 20+ is a better bet when setting up a community tank.

    Group Size

    Group or school size is another important factor to consider when choosing neon tetra tank mates.

    You will notice that the fish species in this article are small, up to 2 inches. Fish of that size might not need very much room, but these species are social creatures that need to be kept with their own kind to behave confidently.

    Parameters

    Neon tetras prefer slightly cooler water than most other tropical fish. They also enjoy mildly acidic water. These are important factors when choosing tank mates because some fish need colder or warmer conditions or water with a higher pH.

    Let’s take a look at the ideal parameters for your neon tetras:

    Temperament

    Neon tetras are peaceful fish, and they need peaceful tank mates. Avoid territorial fish or species that are known to be aggressive or nip fins. Be aware that even peaceful fish can behave badly if they are not kept in groups or if they are under stress.

    Swimming Level

    It’s a good idea to add fish that occupy various levels in the water column. This article focuses on colorful schooling and shoaling fish, but adding a few bottom feeders will help to keep your tank clean while adding another layer of movement.

    Top 15 Companions

    Now that you know what to look for in the perfect neon tetra tank mate let’s jump in and meet 15 amazing species you can add to your fish tank. Take note of the following facts and guidelines for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Swimming Level
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • pH
    • Water Temperature

    Let’s get started!

    1. Other Types

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 -7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF

    Sometimes, the best tank mates for neon tetras are other neon tetras! These peaceful tropical fish are very social creatures that live in large schools in their natural habitat.

    There is no limit to the number of neon tetras you can keep if you have enough room, but you should keep a minimum of 6. Like other schooling aquarium fish, your neon tetras just won’t be comfortable without the company of their own species.

    2. Black

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 77 ยฐF

    Black neon tetras are a different species from regular neon tetras, but they have very similar behavior. Their bold black, silver, and red colors contrast with the blues of the neon tetras for an amazing display.

    Black neon tetras are true community fish. They grow slightly larger than regular neon tetras, but you can easily keep a small school of both species in a 15-gallon tank with good filtration and plenty of swimming space.

    3. Green

    Green Neon Tetra School
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon simulans
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1 inch
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 6.5
    • Water Temperature: 76 – 95 ยฐF

    The green neon tetra is very similar to the regular neon, but it stays a little smaller. These little fish have even brighter blue and green coloration but have less red than regular neon tetras.

    Green neons can make great neon tetra tank mates, but they prefer warmer water. That means the two species must be kept right around 77ยฐF to keep everyone happy.

    4. Dwarf Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1 inch
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 6.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF

    The dwarf rasbora (video resource) is a tiny fish from Southeast Asia. They are very peaceful fish that will thrive in a well-maintained community tank with neon tetras and other smaller fish.

    The dwarf rasbora is a good tank mate for a heavily planted aquarium. These fish can thrive in a small tank, but maintaining excellent water quality in a low volume of water is best left to more experienced aquarists.

    5. Exclamation Point Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Adult Size: 0.5 – 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ lower levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF

    The exclamation point rasbora is a true nano fish and one of the smallest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby! These tiny schooling fish get their name from the dot and stripes on the sides of their body.

    Exclamation point rasboras are good neon tetra tank mates in a heavily planted aquascape. They are ideal for more advanced aquarists looking for a nano community fish.

    6. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 1.75 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82ยฐF

    Looking for a hardy fish with great color and personality for your neon tetra community tank? Look no further than the harlequin rasbora! These beautiful fish make quite a statement with their bold black triangular markings.

    Harlequin rasboras will get along great with your neon tetras, but it’s very important to keep them with other fish of their own species. Pick up a group of at least 8 of these active fish.

    7. Celestial Pearl Danio

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ lower levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78ยฐF

    Celestial pearl danios (AKA galaxy rasboras) are very suitable tank mates for neon tetras in a well-maintained home aquarium. These little fish are very peaceful, but they are easily outcompeted for food by larger active swimmers, so choose their tank mates carefully.

    You will love the way these shoaling fish hang out and display for each other. They are not exactly coldwater fish, but they enjoy the same cooler water temperatures as neon tetras.

    8. Cherry Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 1.75 – 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 80 ยฐF

    Cherry barbs are a great nano community fish from the same family as goldfish. They are a very peaceful barb species that won’t bother your neon tetras.

    These schooling fish come from forest streams in Asia, and they thrive in community tanks with other peaceful schooling fish.

    Cherry barbs are very active swimmers, and they need the company of their own species to feel comfortable. Keep a group of at least 6 in a tank with plenty of swimming space, and you’ll find that they make great tank mates for your neon tetras!

    9. Dwarf Gourami

    Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF

    Dwarf Gouramis are active and curious fish that enjoy exploring their aquarium. These fascinating fish breathe air at the surface of the tank, so keep that in mind if you plan on growing floating plants.

    The male dwarf gourami is a very colorful fish with iridescent blues, reds, and silvers – just like your neon tetras! These fish should be kept in pairs or small groups.

    10. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80 ยฐF

    The honey gourami is similar to the dwarf gourami but stays even small at around 2 inches. These peaceful tropical fish will brighten up your aquarium with their beautiful golden color.

    Honey gouramis are easy to care for, so they make a great choice for beginner fish keepers looking for a new species with an interesting shape and calm personality. You can keep a pair of these fish in a tank of 15 gallons but jump up to 20 gallons or more if you want a small group.

    11. Sparkling Gourami

    Sparkling gouramis (video source) are also known as pygmy gouramis. They are one of the smallest gourami species in the aquarium hobby, and they are a great choice for your neon tetra tank.

    They are more streamlined than other gouramis, and their large fins and bright blue eyes really make them stand out in a tropical community. Sparkling gouramis are not exactly schooling fish, but they prefer to be kept in a group with their own species.

    12. Amano Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.6
    • Water Temperature: 60 – 80ยฐF

    Amano shrimp are one of the larger freshwater shrimp species in the aquarium hobby. These shrimp are named after Takashi Amano, the legendary aquarist and photographer.

    Amano Shrimp are amazing algae eaters, which makes them the perfect choice for planted aquariums. They may not be the most colorful inverts, but they are fascinating to watch.

    Adults are generally safe with neon tetras and other small fish, but shrimplets can be risky. Providing plenty of hiding spaces and dense plants like Java moss will give them a safe place to hang out until they are large enough to explore.

    13. Cherry Shrimp

    Beginner Friendly
    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy In Bulk
    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
    • Adult Size: 1.25 – 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 80 ยฐF

    Cherry shrimp are popular, hardy, and affordable freshwater shrimp that can be great neon tetra tank mates. These bottom feeders eat algae and other waste, which makes them a natural choice for your clean-up crew!

    Adult cherry shrimp are usually safe to keep with neon tetras, but the babies will be eaten if they don’t have plenty of hiding places like caves and fine-leaved plants. You may wish to add a few inexpensive ghost shrimp first to see if your fish are going to be shrimp-safe.

    14. Nerite Snail

    • Scientific Name: Neritina spp.
    • Adult Size: 1- 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 6.5 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 85 ยฐF

    Nerite snails are beautiful and hardworking members of your clean-up crew. These colorful creatures cruise around on the leaves of plants and your aquarium glass, slowly grazing on algae to keep your tank looking great.

    Nerite snails do not breed in freshwater, so you don’t have to worry about them multiplying in your tank. Many amazing species are available in the aquarium trade, with zebra and tiger nerites being the most popular.

    15. Mystery Snails

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 7 – 8.4
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF

    Mystery snails are another great invertebrate option for your neon tetra tank. These large snails come in a variety of colors, including white, golden, purple, and blue.

    These snails lay their eggs outside of the water, so you don’t have to worry about them breeding if you keep your tank full. Mystery snails can be kept with neon tetras if you have water right around neutral but they do not thrive in low-pH conditions.

    Other Possibilities

    Want even more neon tetra tank mate ideas? These fish are also potential choices:

    Fish To Avoid

    Now that we’ve covered a bunch of great neon tetra tank mates let’s take a look at some of the tank mates you should avoid.

    Most of the fish listed above are examples of larger fish that can eat your neon tetras. Avoid fish that grow larger than about 3 inches to stay on the safe side.

    Betta fish aren’t going to eat neon tetras, but they can be a little aggressive toward them. The least risky will be female bettas. Other small aggressive fish like tiger barbs and silvertip tetras should also be avoided as well as any species that require water temperatures above 78 ยฐF or a pH above 7.

    Community Tank Tips

    Have you chosen your favorite neon tetra tank mates? Before you go out and order your new fish, take a few minutes to read through these handy neon tetra tank tips!

    Tank Size

    You can keep neon tetras in a tank of just 10 gallons, but your options are pretty limited. I would suggest a tank of at least 15 gallons, but 20 gallons or more is advisable. Remember, neon tetras are schooling fish, so you’re going to want at least 6.

    If you add some other schooling aquarium fish like harlequin rasboras, your total stocking will increase to at least 14 fish.

    Bigger is (almost) always better when setting up a community tank, so keep this in mind if you don’t already have your aquarium set up.

    Filtration, Lighting & Heating

    A successful neon community tank requires good filtration, a reliable aquarium heater, and six to eight hours of lighting each day.

    Neon tetras do not mind a decent flow rate in their tank since they live in rivers in their natural environment. Nevertheless, they are small fish that will become stressed if forced to swim against a strong current all day.

    Decorating Your Tank

    Your Neon Tetras will enjoy plenty of swimming space, but they prefer to have some structure in their home. Add some driftwood and rocks to create a more natural habitat.

    Growing live plants in your aquarium is a great way to improve your water quality and make your tank even more beautiful.

    Choose easy plants like Java ferns and Amazon sword if you’re just starting out. These plants don’t need any specialized equipment to thrive.

    Feeding Your Fish

    Neon tetras are very easy to feed. Providing high-quality flake food once or twice each day will keep them happy and healthy. Provide the occasional treat like live or frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp to keep your fish in top condition.

    Overfeeding your fish is a common mistake that can have some surprisingly serious consequences. Watch your fish eat; they should be able to finish their food in a minute or so.

    Tank Maintenance

    Maintaining a healthy neon tetra community tank takes a little regular maintenance.

    Schedule an hour or so each week to perform regular water changes and tank maintenance. I recommend testing your water every week to monitor the build-up of nitrates and phosphates.

    You can plan your maintenance schedule around the results of your tests and aim to keep your nitrate levels down to about 20 parts per million or less. You’ll also want to clean your glass and ornaments from time to time and rinse out your filter media when it begins to clog up.

    However, there are some things you can do to minimize the amount of maintenance you need to do. Use these tips to keep your tank cleaner for longer:

    • Avoid overstocking your tank. More fish means more food and more fish poop!
    • Grow live plants
    • Use high-quality filtration
    • Avoid overfeeding
    • Add clean-up crew animals like nerite snails and cherry shrimps

    Where To Buy

    Are you ready to get some new friends for your neon tetras? You should have no trouble tracking down the species in this list. Most local fish stores will stock these fish; just make sure to buy from stores that take great care of their animals.

    More and more aquarists are buying their fish online these days. You can also consider ordering your fish from a trusted online retailer and having them delivered directly to your door!

    FAQs

    Are They Good Companions?

    Neon tetras make wonderful tank mates for many other fish. These peaceful fish are safe to keep with similar-sized tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters.

    How Many Can I Put In A 10-gallon Tank?

    A school of 6 neon tetras is a good option for a 10-gallon aquarium with good filtration. It is easy to overstock a small aquarium, but remember that these fish need to be kept in a school.

    Do All Tetra Fish Get Along?

    Most tetras are very peaceful fish, but some can be a little bit nippy. Serpae tetras and silvertip tetras are two species that can be aggressive towards other fish and their own species.

    Do Tetra Fish Need Companions?

    Tetra fish absolutely need the companionship of their own species. That means you need at least 6 neon tetras together in the same tank. Six different species of tetras, or two groups of three, will not school together in the same way.

    What Fish Gets Along With Tetras?

    Most small, peaceful tropical fish get along with tetras. Small schooling fish like rasboras, gouramis, and other species like cardinal tetras are all great options for the middle levels of the water column. Small bottom feeders like cory catfish and even African dwarf frogs also make excellent tank mates.

    Can 4 Of Them Live Together?

    Try to keep at least 6 neon tetras together in your tank. These fish live in huge schools in nature where they enjoy the benefits of safety in numbers. They may be shy and nervous in a group of four.

    What Big Fish Can Live With Them?

    Most big fish will eat your neon tetras, but a few vegetarian species are pretty safe. Plecos are one of the few large fish that are safe to keep with tetras.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Neon tetras are social schooling fish who are shy and nervous. They should be kept in schools of at least 6, although 12 or more is even better.

    Final Thoughts

    Use the tips in this guide to help you choose your next tank mates. Remember, choose peaceful, similar-size fish that enjoy the same water parameters as your neon tetras. Give them plenty of swimming space and keep their tank clean for a happy and healthy home aquarium!

    What is your favorite neon tetra tank mate? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.