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  • Otocinclus Catfish Care – A Complete Guide

    Otocinclus Catfish Care – A Complete Guide

    Are you thinking of adding an otocinclus catfish to your tank? If so, you’ll want to read this complete guide on how to care for them. In this article, we’ll cover everything from what they eat to how to make your tank perfect for these little fish. So whether you’re a first-time fish keeper or just want to learn more about otocinclus catfish care, keep reading!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameOtocinclus spp.
    Common NamesOtocinclus catfish, otos, dwarf suckers
    FamilyLoricariidae
    OriginSouth America
    DietHerbivore
    Care RequirementsModerate to Advanced
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan3 to 5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelBottom to middle level
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallons
    Water Temperature Range74ยฐF to 79ยฐF
    Water Hardness6 to 10 KH
    pH Range6.8 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedDifficult
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origin and Habitat

    There are nearly 20 different species of known otocinclus catfish. Not all of these species have made their way into the aquarium, but the ones that have can be difficult to tell apart from one another. In general, any otocinclus species that is available for sale in the aquarium hobby will be labeled as a general type of otocinclus catfish.

    That being said, all members of this genus are found in similar environments and water conditions throughout South America, including the Amazon basin. There, they can be found at the margins of small rivers and streams, hiding and feeding in dense vegetation. They have also been documented occupying floating mats of vegetation away from the edge of the water.

    Appearance

    Several species of otocinclus have made their way into the aquarium hobby. Each one has a slightly different appearance, though most average hobbyists are unable to tell them apart.

    Here are some of the most common oto catfish species you’re likely to come across:

    How Does an Otocinclus Look Like

    Otocinclus vestitus. This species lacks a black tail marking or a white border. Instead, the midlateral black stripe combines with the mottled patterning and continues onto the tail in a straight fashion.

    Otocinclus macrospilus. This species most notably has a large, black marking at the base of the caudal fin. Some broken white outlining can be observed in between the mottled patterning and midlateral dark line.

    Otocinclus vittatus. This species has a very obvious white border to its midlateral black line. There is no observable black marking at the base of the tail, either.

    Most species of otocinclus grow to be about 2 inches at mature size, though some can grow to be close to 4 inches. The golden otocinclus (Otocinclus affinis, now described as Macrotocinclus affinis) is the smallest oto documented, growing to only about 1.5 inches; however, this species is rarely seen in the aquarium hobby.

    Not only are species of otos confused with one another, but they’re regularly confused with another problematic fish, the Chinese algae eater.

    Otocinclus vs. Chinese Algae Eater

    Chinese algae eaters (Gyrinocheilus aymonieri) are very similar in appearance to otocinclus catfish to the untrained eye. In almost all ways, the otocinclus is the much better option as a tank mate and as an algae eater.

    Chinese algae eaters end up being problematic for many hobbyists. These Asian fish grow to be very large, reaching a potential 10 inches at mature size. They have a similar body shape and coloration to small otos.

    What Does A Chinese Algae Eater Eat

    The main difference is that Chinese algae eaters have a very bold and black midlateral line with a yellow margin. Chinese algae eaters also lack the mottled patterning that otos have on their dorsal areas. Siamese algae eaters (Crossocheilus oblongus) share many of these same traits but are not as big of a mistake as Chinese algae eaters are. Here’s why.

    Chinese algae eaters are often sold as juveniles when they are only a couple of inches long. Unknowing hobbyists find these readily available fish as an initial answer to their algae problems. As time goes on, they soon find that their once-friendly fish start to become very aggressive and more interested in sucking other fish than cleaning algae.

    In extreme cases, Chinese algae eaters will suck the slime coat off of tank mates and cause extensive injury or death.

    Otocinclus Catfish Care

    Otocinclus catfish are not beginner fish. They may look like the perfect solution to a new tank struggling with algae, but they do best in a mature setup where there is a constant supply of algae and other plant-based foods to graze on. These fish are notorious for starving to death when conditions are not met, which can cause devastation when kept in a school.

    With some proper care and time for acclimation, otos are easy to keep.

    Tank Size

    Otos are small fish with a big appetite. Many sources say that a group of otocinclus catfish can happily live in a 10 gallon tank. While this isn’t completely untrue, making sure that your fish get enough food in so small of a freshwater tank can prove to be incredibly challenging.

    Instead, many hobbyists recommend at least a 20 gallon long aquarium with bigger always being better. It should be noted that no matter the size of the aquarium, these fish are very shy and masters of camouflage. They will not fill up a tank but will struggle to survive if enough resources aren’t given from the beginning.

    Aquarium Setup

    Otocinclus catfish should only be added to an established aquarium. An established aquarium will provide both stability and food for your otos to live.

    In the wild, these fish are found in relatively slow-moving waters with dense vegetation. This can be replicated in the aquarium by providing plenty of background plants, like species of Vallisneria and Rotala.

    Floating plants, like frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum) and water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes), will also provide food and additional shelter. Remember, these are shy fish and prefer plenty of coverage. Either use floating plants to create areas of shade throughout the aquarium or use dim lighting with less light-demanding plant species.

    In addition, tannins from various organics and botanicals may be used to stain the water brown and lower its pH. Plenty of rocks and wood structures should also be placed throughout the tank to provide additional surface area for algae and biofilm to grow as well as to provide your fish with additional hiding spots.

    Eventually, your otocinclus catfish will get to know you and won’t be as scared. Unlike other catfish, otos are diurnal and will be active during the daytime. They’ll regularly be found on the aquarium glass and interact with other fish in the tank.

    Water Parameters

    Another difficulty of keeping otos is maintaining water parameters. These fish are not hardy and need an aquarium that has reached mature stability. They will quickly succumb to any traces of ammonia or nitrite.

    That being said, it is better to keep a high amount of nutrients available in an otocinclus catfish tank setup so that algae may grow. Algae feed primarily on nitrates and phosphates, which can be introduced through food or water changes depending on the source water.

    As we’ll see, these fish are demanding eaters and need to be fed regularly. Heavier feedings can help keep nutrients up to continue plant and algae growth.

    Otherwise, otocinclus can tolerate slightly acidic conditions, preferring a pH range between 6.8 to 7.5. A stable water temperature between 74ยฐF to 79ยฐF must also be maintained with an aquarium heater.

    Filter and Aeration

    Otocinclus need good water quality, but low water flow. It is better to have an oversized filter than not enough mechanical, biological, or chemical filtration for these fish.

    Otos will do best with a hang on the back filter, canister filter, or sump filtration that is rated for at least 2x the size of the aquarium; for smaller setups, a sponge filter may be most favorable to provide your otos with a concentrated grazing area. While these small fish should be able to swim against any currents made by the filtration, it might be necessary to baffle the return rate.

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    Surface agitation created by filtration should be enough to keep dissolved oxygen levels high in the aquarium. An air stone may be added for additional oxygenation and circulation.

    Do Otocinclus Produce A Lot of Waste?

    Believe it or not, otocinclus catfish species can create a lot of waste. They are constantly grazing and what goes in must come out. In addition, these fish need to regularly be given large quantities of food throughout the day, which will add to the bioload of the planted tank.

    Keep in mind that otos need to be kept in groups so this bioload is amplified!

    Lighting

    As mentioned before, otocinclus catfish are shy. However, they aren’t especially sensitive to light.

    Lighting will depend mostly on which species of plants are being kept in the aquarium. Higher intensities will likely be needed for more challenging species. This should not affect the behavior of your otos, but floating plants and extra structures throughout the tank can help create shaded areas of relief for your fish.

    Community Tank Mates

    If otos weren’t so difficult to feed, they would truly be the best community algae eater. These fish may be shy, but they’re usually completely unbothered by other peaceful fish in the aquarium. That being said, they may be more likely to hide if overly active or aggressive fish are present.

    Some of the best community aquarium tank mates for otos are:

    In general, it’s best to avoid keeping otos with other bottom-dwelling fish. When otocinclus catfish are not cleaning the glass or a plant, they’ll be found at the bottom of the tank. Having another group of bottom-dwelling fish could potentially take away food options and stress out your fish.

    Another popular tank mate recommendation for otocinclus catfish is freshwater shrimp. However, shrimp also love to graze on algae, which could lessen food availability as well if it’s an especially clean aquarium.

    How Many Oto Catfish Can Stay Together?

    In their natural habitat, otocinclus have been observed shoaling by the thousands. These fish love each other’s company!

    Though these fish don’t form tight schools like some other freshwater fish, they will definitely be seen interacting with one another when given the chance. At least 6 otocinclus catfish should be kept per tank at all times. Any less than this can cause your fish to become extra shy.

    Of course, it is best to get as many otos as you can comfortably fit into your aquarium. Just keep in mind that you need to be able to feed them all, too!

    Are They Aggressive?

    No, otocinclus catfish are not aggressive. These are very peaceful fish that, for the most part, will not react to other fish. It is more likely for an oto to be bullied than for an oto to be the bully. Unfortunately, tales of aggression may have stemmed from a misidentified Chinese algae eater instead.

    Fish Food and Diet

    Here’s where the trouble begins. Getting otocinclus to eat and keeping them fed is the main difficulty of keeping these fish. Too often, these freshwater fish are sold as a quick fix for beginner hobbyists going through the ugly algae stages of a tank cycle. Once that cycle finishes and the otos have cleaned the tank, they are left to starve and eventually die.

    The good news is that feeding otos isn’t actually hard.

    Otocinclus catfish are primarily herbivores. They feed on aufwuchs, which is the organic film that covers all surfaces of aquatic ecosystems. Within aufwuchs are microscopic organisms and plants. This film is developed over time as the aquarium becomes more established.

    In addition, otos will gladly eat most soft algae species within the freshwater aquarium; they are less likely to touch more macroscopic varieties, but hobbyists usually have complete success.

    In order to keep food reserves up, the aquarium needs to be healthy: a healthy system equals a healthy fish. In some ways, it is better to think of feeding the tank instead of feeding the individual fish. But how do you do this?

    First, give the planted tank time to mature. Full stability is reached around the 1 year mark. Next, feed the tank heavily. Provide live, frozen, and freeze-dried options to other fish in the aquarium. Finally, ensure that you feed a high-quality diet to your oto.

    It is rare for otos to accept algae wafers or pellets, but not impossible. More likely, your otocinclus will appreciate a herbivorous gel food. This can be made at home or purchased from your local aquarium store.

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    Another option is to provide your otocinclus catfish with fresh, blanched vegetables. Simply buy a variety of vegetables, like zucchini, cucumber, and lettuce. Cut them up and boil them for a couple of minutes. Move them to a bowl filled with ice cubes to finish the blanching process. These vegetables can then be moved to the freezer for storage.

    A piece of the vegetable can be fed to the tank every couple of days, or as often as your fish are able to eat. This can become very messy over time so it’s important to remove vegetables that have been in the tank for a while.

    What To Know Before Owning

    The key to successfully keeping otocinclus is starting with healthy fish.

    As we’ll see, oto catfish have yet to be bred at the commercial scale, making most of the individuals available wild-caught. This can make the transition to a planted aquarium very difficult in regards to disease and diet.

    Otocinclus Catfish in Planted Tank

    When picking out your otocinclus from the fish store, ask to see them eat and inquire about what they’re being fed. This should hopefully make the transition from the aquarium store to the home freshwater aquarium easier; unfortunately, it can still be difficult to get your fish to eat.

    A healthy otocinclus will have a round stomach. When they are pressed up against the glass, their white bellies should look like they’ve swallowed a pearl. Underfed fish will be light in color and might have a concave stomach.

    Breeding

    Oto catfish have been bred in the aquarium hobby, but not with large success or description. It is believed that they are very similar breeders and egg spawners to Corydoras.

    Otocinclus breed by the male interlocking with and fertilizing the female’s eggs. The eggs are then deposited in a safe area with no further parental care.

    There are a few described methods for successfully breeding these freshwater fish, though most of it comes down to creating ideal environmental conditions and providing a high-quality diet. Large, cool water changes are said to help encourage spawning as well as having other active spawning species in the aquarium, such as Corydoras.

    There is a great video by Fins and Whiskers that explains breeding these fish. Check it out below.

    The fry needs to be fed large amounts of algae and plant matter. They are extremely small and will need to be raised in a very controlled setting.

    Final Thoughts

    Otocinclus catfish care can be demanding. These fish need a mature aquarium with lots of live plants and biofilm to keep them protected and fed. Most otos in the fishkeeping hobby are wild-caught, making the transition from the wild to the home aquarium difficult. As a result, they’ll need to be given a careful diet with plenty of greens.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Types Of Platy Fish – 15 to try (With Pictures!)

    Types Of Platy Fish – 15 to try (With Pictures!)

    One of the most popular types of fish for home aquariums is the platy. There are many types of platy fish available in the hobby with a range of colors and patterns. They range from bright colors, to dark, from plain to metallic looking. If you’re looking to add a platy to your tank, take a look at some of the options below. We’ve included pictures (and even videos!) so you can get an idea of what each type looks like. Let’s get started!

    A Quick Overview Of The Platy Fish

    Scientific NameXiphophorus maculatus
    Common NamesPlaty fish, moonfish, southern platy fish
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    OriginMexico, Nicaragua, Guatemala, and Belize
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelVery easy
    Activity Moderate
    Lifespan3 โ€“ 5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMid and top level
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range64 ยฐ to 77 ยฐF
    Water Hardness10 โ€“ 25 KH
    pH Range7.0 โ€“ 8.2
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLivebearer
    Difficulty to BreedVery easy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Introduction to Platy Fish

    Platy fish have been a longtime favorite in the freshwater aquarium hobby. These freshwater fish have bold personalities, vibrant colors, and can bring tons of excitement to the community aquarium. They are considered the ultimate beginner fish species, though they are kept by hobbyists at all levels. However, some more experienced hobbyists tend to avoid platies due to their high bioload and reproduction rates.

    That being said, the aquarium hobby has taken the traditional platy fish, Xiphophorus maculatus, and transformed the species into an array of color variations and patterns through selective breeding. Today, there are dozens of platy fish varieties available with little to no additional need for extra care.

    How Many Types of Them Are There?

    There are over 30 different species in the Xiphophorus genus. Only 3 of these have made their way into the aquarium hobby:

    • platy fish (Xiphophorus maculatus)
    • swordtail platy fish (Xiphophorus helleri)
    • variatus platy fish (Xiphophorus variatus)

    Regular platy fish are the most common species to come across and have been selectively bred to express the most colors.

    How To Identify

    Platy fish are very easy to identify, though they can be more difficult to tell apart from each other.

    These fish grow to be about 2-3 inches at mature size; some dwarf varieties, like the dwarf red coral platy fish, grow to be even smaller than this at full size. Platy fish have a relatively long body with a rounded tail fin. Females will have round stomachs, especially if they are pregnant.

    Differences between male and female platies can be difficult to see. Male platy fish have a much more slender, torpedo-shaped body while female platy fish are larger overall. Males also possess a gonopodium (photo source), which is a straightened anal fin for reproduction purposes. In contrast, females have a rounded anal fin.

    Gonopodium

    Are Swordtails Platies?

    You may have noticed the similarities between swordtails and platies, namely their body shapes and colors. But how related are these freshwater fish to one another?

    These fish are very close and are in the same genus. Platy fish are Xiphophorus maculatus while swordtails are Xiphophorus helleri. They originate from similar areas throughout Central America and can even interbreed. This makes the platy fish and swordtail very similar to care for.

    Origin and Habitat

    Platy fish are no longer collected from their natural habitats for the aquarium hobby due to their high reproduction rates. This has led to sustainable distribution as well as much hardier, healthier fish.

    Platy fish originate from Central America, namely Mexico, Nicaragua, Guatemala, and Belize. There, they are found in freshwater streams and rivers with varying conditions. They mostly prefer slow-moving water conditions with dense vegetation near the bank where they can feed and reproduce.

    Because these are very adaptable and hardy fish, the platy fish has since established populations in the United States. This is most likely due to releases from fish farms and the aquarium hobby.

    The platy fish is also an important model organism for studying genomics.

    Care

    Platy fish are one of the easiest freshwater fish to keep in the aquarium. The biggest problem hobbyists run into with these fish is overpopulation; they don’t need much to be happy and they are very likely to start reproducing almost immediately.

    Otherwise, platy fish are incredibly easy to care for, though they need a good aquarium setup for long-term success.

    Aquarium Setup

    Platy fish can be kept in a simple beginner tank setup or a complex aquarium with high-end species. They are compatible with nearly every community fish species and will leave plants and invertebrates alone.

    Platy fish can be kept on either a sand or gravel substrate. They can be messy fish so it is important to keep the substrate vacuumed to prevent detritus from accumulating and affecting water conditions.

    Tank Size

    Though easy to keep, platy fish are one of the larger and messier beginner fish species to keep. As we’ll see, they also do best in small group settings, which means that they need a larger aquarium setup. The recommended minimum tank size for a platy fish is 10 gallons.

    Platy fish are moderately active fish and will mostly stay in the middle and top portions of the water column, though these fish won’t hesitate to travel to the bottom of the aquarium to search for food or investigate tank mates. They can be seen darting back and forth across the tank, waiting to be fed. Because of this, a longer tank is better than a taller tank.

    Preferably, platy fish will be kept in at least a 20 gallon long community aquarium. This allows for multiple platies to be kept together and any potential fry.

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    Water Parameters

    Platy fish are very hardy fish and will survive most beginner’s mistakes when it comes to water parameters and tank maintenance. Still, they will not tolerate traces of ammonia or nitrite in the aquarium but can tolerate small imperfections here and there.

    An interesting factor of platy fish water quality is that they prefer slightly more basic parameters. As opposed to many other Central and South American species of tropical fish that prefer lower pH levels, platy fish need a pH between 7.0-8.2.

    Like other species though, platy fish are largely tropical and need to be kept in warmer, consistent water temperatures despite the recommended range being 64ยฐF to 77ยฐF. It is best to keep them at the higher end of this range to allow for more tank mate options. An aquarium heater is also highly recommended to keep conditions stable and prevent stress.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Platy fish can’t have too much filtration power. They can be messy fish and it’s better to have a filter that is rated for at least 2x the size of the aquarium; a sponge filter, hang on the back filter, or canister filter will be sufficient for a platy fish community.

    In the wild, platy fish are found in relatively slow-moving currents. However, most platies have been bred in aquarium fishkeeping conditions for years, making them adapt to varying water currents. These are strong fish that can easily–and might even enjoy–swim against a stronger current from a filter or powerhead.

    Additional aeration is usually not necessary as long as there is good surface agitation. An air pump with a bubbler may be added to help bring movement to dead zones or to the surface of the water.

    Lighting

    Unlike some other tropical fish that originate from very dark and dimmed blackwater systems, platy fish do well in all lighting conditions. This is especially great for hobbyists looking to keep more light-demanding plant species where some other freshwater fish might be too photosensitive.

    In general, the recommended lighting for platy fish will depend more on the types of live plants being kept.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    Platy fish are omnivores, meaning they eat a variety of plant and meat-based foods. For the most part, these fish won’t touch the live plants growing in your aquarium. However, if they’re underfed, they may begin to nip at what’s available to eat.

    Platy fish mainly stay towards the top of the aquarium. They will appreciate rock and driftwood structures to forage for food, but don’t depend on them to hide. If you find that your fish is hiding behind objects in the tank or sticking to the shadows, then there might not be enough hiding spots available.

    Community Tank Mates

    One of the best things about platy fish is that they can be kept with nearly every type of community freshwater fish. This includes:

    Some hobbyists have even been successful at keeping platy fish with some of the less aggressive species of cichlid!

    It is not unheard of for platy fish to be fin nippers. Usually, this behavior diminishes in time, but providing more hiding spots, increasing feedings, or adding more individuals to the group can help lessen the aggression.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    It is recommended to have at least 3 to 6 platy fish in a tank. They will not display tight schooling behavior, but they will interact with each other and have bolder personalities. That being said, hobbyists have also had success keeping a solitary platy fish without any problems.

    As mentioned before, platy fish enjoy being kept in small groups. This can definitely become problematic once these fish start to breed. To help prevent overpopulation, it is possible to have a group of only females, though it can be difficult to tell the sexes apart.

    It should be noted that platy fish are able to breed with other members of Xiphophorus, like swordtails. This would result in a hybrid fish, which is not always supported by the aquarium community.

    Food and Diet

    Platy fish will eat anything. They are not picky eaters and will enjoy an assortment of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods. They may be given a high-quality fish flake food or pellet; they will gladly chase after pellets that fall through the water column and won’t hesitate to eat off the substrate.

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    Breeding

    Platy fish will quickly breed on their own, which can quickly become problematic for hobbyists with full tanks.

    These fish are livebearers. The male will chase down a female until they have mated. If successful, the female will develop a round belly and spawn shortly thereafter. The fry will likely survive in the same tank as long as there are hiding spots in the form of live plants or other structures.

    Once bigger, the fry should be removed to prevent further breeding.

    Can Platies Breed With Other Fish?

    As mentioned before, platies can breed with other fish that are in the same genus. To prevent hybrids, hobbyists usually only keep one species of Xiphophorus in the same tank.

    15 Different Types

    Apart from the 3 separate species of Xiphophorus fish, there are many types of platy fish! Each of these fish has the same easy care requirements and can go in most community tank setups.

    1. Blue Mickey Mouse Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Blue body color
    • Unique Traits: Mickey mouse tail fin pattern

    The blue mickey mouse platy fish is sapphire blue, sometimes with dark fins. These fish are especially popular for their Mickey Mouse markings with a circle at the base of the tail fin with two dark spots at either end of the tail, making for a caricature of the famous cartoon.

    2. Gold Wagtail Platy

    Golden-Wagtail-Platy
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Solid orange body color
    • Unique Traits: Black fins

    The gold wagtail platy fish is a very plain platy, but with lots of color. These fish have an orangey-yellow body with black fins. Black speckles may sometimes be apparent across the body as well.

    3. Gold Twin Bar Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Solid yellow body color
    • Unique Traits: Twin bar pattern

    The gold twin bar platy is a beautiful shade of yellow. They are named the twin bar platy fish due to the two black stripes on the margins of their caudal fin. Their dorsal fin may sometimes be darker in color as well.

    4. Metallic Green Lantern Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Metallic green
    • Unique Traits: Intense metallic coloration

    Sometimes known as just the metallic green platy, these freshwater fish shine in any aquarium, literally! The metallic green lantern platy has a beautiful display of blues and dark greens with a metallic sheen. Their bellies and fins are usually white in color.

    Some of these types of platy fish have color variations that have been bred to express hints of orange and yellow under the green base color to resemble a glowing light.

    5. Panda Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: White and black
    • Unique Traits: Rare coloration

    It is rare to come across white fish, but the panda platy fish (video source) is one of the few. These fish are half white and half black with their black tail earning them their name. Some black may be present on the rest of the body, but more defined lines usually indicate a higher quality fish.

    6. Rainbow Wagtail Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Red, green, and orange body color
    • Unique Traits: Black fins

    Admittedly, the rainbow wagtail platy fish doesn’t always meet up to hobbyists’ expectations. In theory, these fish are a beautiful blend of greens, oranges, and reds with black fins, but the intensity of their colors often falls flat.

    That being said, a rainbow platy looks just like a rainbow of color in the aquarium given the right lighting and diet.

    7. Hi-Fin Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Most
    • Unique Traits: Extended dorsal fins

    The hi-fin platy fish (video source) refers to any platy that has been bred to express extra-long dorsal fins. They can be found in many typical platy fish colors, but most of the more designer patterns will be limited.

    Sometimes, these extended fins can make swimming more difficult. It is recommended to have a lower water current than usual for these platy fish varieties.

    8. Sunset Platy

    Sunset-Platy
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Red, yellow, and orange
    • Unique Traits: Intense coloration

    The sunset platy fish is a sunburst of color! These fish have intense gradients of reds, yellows, and oranges; red colors usually intensify as you move from the head to the tail.

    Fish listed as sunset platies may also sometimes have black fins.

    9. Tuxedo Gold Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Black and yellow body color
    • Unique Traits: Variegated pattern

    Tuxedo gold platies have a yellowish-gold base color with a variegated black pattern on top; the amount of black overlay will vary from fish to fish, making some individuals look ‘dirty’. The black may carry onto the tail or the orange may come through instead.

    10. Black Hamberg Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Black and orange body color
    • Unique Traits: Variegated pattern

    Similar to the tuxedo gold platy, the black hamberg platy has an orangey-red base color with a variegated black pattern on top; the pattern is usually much more intense on this variety of platy fish.

    In addition, it is unlikely for black to be present on any of the fins. Instead, the fins will be transparent, yellow, orange, or red.

    11. Golden Green Tuxedo Wagtail Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Orange and yellow with black
    • Unique Traits: Variegated pattern

    The golden green tuxedo platy fish is like a combination of the rainbow and tuxedo platy varieties. These fish have an orangey-yellow base color with a hint of green covered by a variegated black pattern. The belly is usually white.

    12. Gold Red Platy

    Gold-Red-Platy
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Yellow, orange, and red body color
    • Unique Traits: Intense coloration

    Very similar to the sunset platy fish, the gold red platy is much more intense in color. In comparison, gold red platies are much more orange in coloration, though they still turn red the closer you get to their tail fins.

    13. Red Wagtail Platy

    Red-Wagtail-Platy
    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Red body color
    • Unique Traits: Black fins

    One of the most common platy color variations to come across is the red wagtail platy that has a red body with black fins. Sometimes, they may have yellowish tones on their bellies.

    14. Tuxedo Red Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Red with black
    • Unique Traits: Variegated pattern

    The tuxedo red platy has a red base coat with varying degrees of black variegation. Usually, the black is very solid and appears all the way from the head to the tail; the fins are typically transparent.

    15. Rainbow Pintail Platy

    • Adult Size: 1 to 2 inches
    • Color Pattern: Red, green, and orange body color
    • Unique Traits: Pointed tail

    The rainbow pintail platy is the same coloration as a regular rainbow platy, with mixtures of reds, greens, and oranges. However, these peaceful fish have been bred to have a point at the middle of their tail fins. This trait can also be seen in other platy varieties.

    Final Thoughts

    There are countless other platy fish varieties, including the dalmatian platy, salt and pepper platy, and parrot platy fish, with new colors and patterns being created often. Luckily, no matter what types of platy fish you decide on keeping, all of these fish have the same care requirements.

    The only thing that needs to be taken into consideration when keeping platy fish is their high rate of reproduction. Otherwise, these are the perfect fish for beginner and advanced hobbyists alike!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Female Betta Fish – A Complete Care Guide

    Female Betta Fish – A Complete Care Guide

    Female betta fish are one of the most underrated tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Many of us started out with a single male betta (Siamese fighting fish) as our first fish, but did you know you can keep a group of females in the same tank?

    This article covers everything you need to know about keeping one of my favorite fish- the female betta! We’ll discuss keeping them on their own, in a community tank, and in a group known as a betta sorority, so make sure you read each section to get the full picture.

    Let’s get started!

    Overview

    Scientific NameBetta splendens
    Common NamesSiamese Fighting Fish, Female Betta
    FamilyOsphronemidae
    OriginSoutheast Asia
    DietOmnivore
    Adult Size2-2.25 inches
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan2-5 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size5 gallons
    Temperature Range76ยฐF to 82ยฐF
    Water Hardness5-20 dGH
    pH Range6.5 – 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingBubble nester, egg layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilitySpecies only, ‘sorority’ tank, or community tank
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origin and Habitat

    Betta fish are native to Thailand in Southeast Asia. They are found in shallow freshwater environments like swamps, marshes, and rice paddies.

    The water in these systems stays warm throughout the year thanks to a climate where the air temperature ranges between about 59ยฐF and 104ยฐF. This warm water is usually full of plant life and small creatures that these fish feed on.

    Female Betta Fish Appearance

    Female betta fish usually don’t have the same long flowing fins as the male fish. The male betta fish have much larger pelvic fins in particular. There are always exceptions, however. Some male bettas have short fins, and some females can have pretty long fins.

    Female Betta Fish

    Female bettas aren’t quite as colorful as the males either. Make no mistake though, female bettas can still have amazing colors! They come in a huge variety of colors too, from solid colors to patterns with many different shades.

    Female vs Male – What’s The Difference?

    There are some other differences between male and female bettas aside from their fins and colors. Let’s take a look at some of the most useful clues that you can use to tell the difference:

    Male vs Female Betta

    Physical differences:

    • Female bettas have vertical bars or stripes on their bodies when they are in breeding condition.
    • The body length of the female betta is shorter and wider across
    • Female betta fish do not have the same ‘beard’ as the males. The beard is the membrane that these fish flare in territorial encounters.
    • Females have an ovipositor tube that is called an egg spot.

    Behavioral differences

    • Female betta fish can still be aggressive. They are usually a little less aggressive than their male counterparts, however.
    • You can keep female bettas with other female betta fish. Male bettas should never be kept with other males unless you have a large aquarium.

    Female Colors & Breeds

    Bettas have been kept and bred for hundreds of years and today there are many types of female betta fish to choose from. Male betta fish might be more colorful, but many female betta fish also have awesome colors and patterns!

    Here are a few examples of the most popular types of female bettas in the hobby:

    Average Size

    Female bettas are small freshwater fish that reach a length of between 2 and 2.25 inches. The females are typically a little shorter than the males when fully grown. Their bodies are slightly wider across than males, however.

    Care

    Female betta fish can be really easy to care for! In fact, these fish are great for children or newcomers to the fish-keeping hobby. Keeping a single betta female in her own tank is the best bet for beginners, but more experienced fish keepers can even try keeping many females together in the same tank.

    Wild Betta Fish

    Are you ready to learn more about caring for female betta fish? Let’s dive right in!

    Aquarium Setup

    The right kind of aquarium is very important for successfully keeping female betta fish. In this section, we’ll take a look at how to set up an awesome female betta tank and discuss how to keep one or more of these beautiful fish.

    Tank Size

    Your choice of tank size depends on how many female bettas you plan to keep. If you’re just getting started in the aquarium hobby, a single female betta would make an awesome pet! You can keep your betta in a tank as small as 5 gallons, but a ten gallon would be great too, especially if you want to grow some neat plants and add other fish.

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    You’ll need a much bigger tank if you plan on setting up a female betta sorority tank. 29 gallons or more would be perfect for this kind of setup.

    Water Parameters

    Maintaining the correct water parameters is very important for keeping your female betta fish healthy. You’ll need a thermometer and a water test kit to monitor your parameters.

    Bettas are tropical fish, so make sure you have a heater to keep your water temperature stable between 76 and 82ยฐF.

    Bettas prefer neutral water, although slightly acidic or slightly alkaline water is acceptable. A pH of 6.5-8 is considered ideal. Moderate water hardness of between 5 and 20 dGH is best for these fish.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Contrary to popular belief, betta fish do need good filtration. A small sponge filter will be perfectly fine for a single specimen, but you’ll need a more powerful filter for a sorority setup.

    A canister filter is an ideal choice for a betta sorority because it combines a large volume of filtration media with a low water flow. The fact that it is kept outside of the aquarium also means you’ll have a beautiful display tank.

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    Betta fish are adapted to live in shallow still water systems where they do not need to fight against any water current. The female fish tend to be stronger swimmers than male fish but they will also struggle in a tank with strong water flow.

    Bettas occur in pretty low oxygen, still water environments in nature, so they do not need an air pump with an air stone to stay healthy. Increasing aeration will not harm them, however.

    Recommended Filters

    • Sponge filter- This type of filter is great for single fish setups.
    • Canister filter- These filters are perfect for community aquariums and betta sororities.
    • Hang on back filter– HOB filters are a good all-around choice. Choose a model with an adjustable flow.
    • Internal power filter – These filters tend to create quite a strong current which is not ideal. A small model with an adjustable flow rate and a spray bar to reduce the flow rate can be used, however.

    Lighting

    Any standard aquarium lighting consisting of either fluorescent or LED lighting would be ideal for your female betta fish. Your fish will be more confident if you keep the lighting fairly dim, but you’ll need good light if you are growing live plants.

    Go ahead and set your lighting on a timer to run for 6-8 hours each day. This will provide your fish with a natural daylight period.

    Here’s a very important lighting tip for beginners: Make sure your aquarium is not exposed to any direct sunlight near a window. Strong sunlight is like an invitation for algae!

    Aquatic Plants & Decorations

    Bettas come from shallow water environments that are full of aquatic plants, so these fish thrive in planted tanks. Live aquarium plants provide your female betta fish with several great benefits, but you can also use artificial plants to simplify your setup.

    If you do go the plastic route, just make sure your decorations are aquarium-safe and don’t have any sharp edges that could tear your betta’s beautiful fins.

    Bettas love hiding places, so they will love exploring and swimming through the leaves of plants. Amazon sword and other species that have large leaves make a great choice because bettas love to sleep on the leaves!

    Some floating plants are also a good choice- just remember that bettas need to get to the surface to breathe.

    Add some driftwood, rocks, and aquarium decorations to make your female betta fish tank even more natural and attractive. Bettas love cave decorations, but sunken ships and castles will also give your fish a great place to hide.

    Tank Maintenance

    Regular tank maintenance will keep your tank looking great and your female bettas healthy. An hour of your time every week or so for a water change is really all that you need to set aside to maintain great water quality.

    You can start with a 25% water change once a week and adjust your maintenance schedule based on the nitrate levels in your tank. If your nitrate levels are getting much over 20 ppm before each water change, consider changing out a little more water.

    You’ll need a few supplies to keep your female betta fish tank clean and healthy. Let’s take a quick look at what you’ll need and how to use them:

    • Gravel vacuum- Use your gravel vacuum to suck dirt and waste from the bottom of your tank. This will keep your substrate clean and looking great.
    • Aquarium water test kit – Use your aquarium test kit to monitor your water parameters regularly.
    • Water conditioner – You should always treat tap water before adding it to your aquarium. Water conditioners neutralize harmful chemicals like chlorine and make the water safe for your fish.
    • Algae scraper – Use your algae scraper to clean your aquarium glass when necessary.

    Substrate

    Any clean, aquarium-safe substrate can be used in your female betta fish aquarium. Sand or gravel in a color of your choice is ideal, just be sure to rinse the substrate thoroughly before adding it to your tank. Most freshwater fish look and feel their best in tanks with a darker substrate, but you can use your creativity and choose any color you like.

    Use good quality aquarium soil if you plan on growing loads of aquarium plants. This is a more expensive option than regular gravel because it supplies all the nutrients that plants need to live and grow.

    Tank Mates

    You’ve probably heard that Siamese fighting fish are super aggressive and can’t be kept with other fish. The truth is that you can set up a betta community tank with other species or even keep more than one betta fish in the same tank as long as they are females.

    You should never keep male and female bettas together, but you certainly can keep females with other female bettas in the right kind of tank. Adding a school of dither fish can help to distract your female betta fish and reduce aggression. The best dither fish are active smaller fish like harlequin rasboras that swim in the middle and top levels of the tank.

    Here are some good tank mates to keep in a female betta fish community tank:

    Incompatible Tank Mates

    The following fish are not recommended for a female betta fish community aquarium:

    Keeping a Single

    The easiest way to keep female betta fish is to keep just a single female betta fish in its own tank. You can set up a great betta aquarium without spending much, so setting up a few different tanks is also a possibility.

    Betta sorority

    The great thing about female betta fish is that you can actually keep more than one in the same tank. This takes careful planning, however, and you’re going to want to have some backup plans in place in case anything goes wrong.

    In a very large tank, a female betta fish sorority could do well if each has enough personal space. Growing Loads of tall aquarium plants and providing plenty of decorations can also help to keep the fish out of sight of one another. You can see a sorority in action from this tank in the video above by kingofhear4711.

    Another completely different technique can be used to limit aggressive behavior. Purposefully overstocking the tank will prevent the female betta fish from developing territories and singling out any one fish to bully.

    It is best to keep at least 6 female bettas in the same tank and keep a close eye on your fish, especially in the beginning. Any fish that is picking on the others may have to be removed from the tank.

    This is where having a backup plan will really come in handy. I would recommend setting up a small tank that can be used as a hospital tank and for quarantining new fish. This little tank will come in handy eventually, even if you don’t have any fighting.

    Breeding

    Breeding betta fish at home is quite easy and can be great fun too. The most important thing to understand is that male betta fish can become aggressive and even kill the females if you don’t keep a close eye on things.

    Let’s run through the basic steps of breeding betta fish.

    • Your male and female bettas should be kept in separate tanks until they are ready to breed.
    • Set up and cycle your breeding tank well before you start breeding your bettas.
    • Condition your fish by feeding them live foods.
    • Introduce your fish to the breeding tank but keep them separated with a divider.
    • After a day or so, the male will have built his bubble nest and the pair can be allowed to spawn.
    • The pair will embrace and the female will drop her eggs. She can be moved back to her own tank once the eggs are laid.
    • The male will collect the eggs and deposit them in the bubble nest.
    • The eggs will hatch after a few days and the male can then be moved back to his tank.
    • Feed the baby bettas a diet of tiny food like infusoria for about 2 months until they are ready to be moved into their own tanks.

    Breeding Tank Requirements

    Now that you have a better understanding of the betta breeding process, let’s take a look at the recommended breeding tank setup:

    A tank that holds ten gallons or so is a good size for breeding betta fish. You’ll need a small heater and a sponge filter that creates a very low flow to maintain good water quality for the baby bettas. You only need 5 inches or so of water in the tank, and you don’t need a light or any gravel or substrate.

    Add an Indian almond leaf or a piece of floating foam to the tank to give the male a place to build his bubble nest. Finally, lay a sheet of plastic wrap over the top of the tank to maintain humid air above the water.

    Food & Diet

    Female bettas need a high protein diet consisting of prepared dried foods and live/frozen foods. They can be fed the same diet as their male counterparts.

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    A high-quality floating micro-pellet or flake food is the best daily food source for female bettas, but you should supplement this a few times a week with some live or frozen foods like brine shrimp and bloodworms. These supplements will bring out the best color and condition in your fish.

    How Often Should You feed them?

    You can feed your betta fish once or twice per day. Pick one day per week to fast your fish as this can help prevent the chance of bloating. Don’t worry, your fish can survive for many days without food so just one day won’t do any harm.

    Overfeeding can be very dangerous for your betta and excess food can cause the water quality in your aquarium to deteriorate. Feed your betta only as much as it can finish in a minute or so and remove the leftovers from the tank.

    Common Health Problems and Diseases

    Female betta fish are vulnerable to a variety of common fish diseases. Keeping them in a healthy tank with great water quality is the best way to avoid problems.

    Follow these steps to prevent illness:

    • Quarantine your fish before adding them to a community or sorority tank.
    • Make sure your pH, water hardness, and water temperature are in the right range.
    • Feed your fish a healthy, balanced diet.
    • Keep up with regular tank maintenance.
    • Separate fighting fish. Stress is the biggest cause of illness in bettas.

    Let’s take a quick look at some of the more common problems that affect betta fish:

    Ich

    This common freshwater fish disease is characterized by white spots on the fish’s body. Ich is caused by a parasite and can be treated with medication like Ich X.

    Swim Bladder Disorder

    Swim bladder disorders cause fish to struggle to swim properly. They may sink, float or spin in the water. This illness is often caused by overfeeding bettas.

    Fin Rot/Tail Rot

    Torn and disintegrating fins are a common symptom of stressed betta fish. Fin rot can be treated with antibiotics or aquarium salt.

    FAQS

    How can you tell if your fish is a female?

    Female betta fish can look very similar to males. The females are usually less colorful and have smaller fins, however. Female bettas are a little shorter and wider than the males too, and they can have an egg spot and vertical bars on their bodies.

    Are female bettas friendly?

    Female betta fish can make awesome pets with great personalities. They aren’t always friendly towards other bettas but it is possible to keep them together with some careful planning.

    Are they peaceful?

    Female bettas can be just as aggressive as their male counterparts. Overstocking a sorority tank or just providing loads of space and plants to reduce line of sight are the best ways to avoid conflict when keeping more than one female betta fish in the same tank.

    Are they better than males?

    It’s difficult to say whether female or male betta fish are better because they are both great! Females are a little less aggressive than the males but they don’t always have the same bright colors and they tend to have shorter fins.

    Can you put 2 female betta fish together?

    It is not recommended to put 2 female betta fish together in the same tank. A single female betta or a group of 6 or more in a larger tank would be a safer bet.

    Is it normal for them to chase each other?

    Female bettas can be aggressive towards each other and they will chase each other and fight if you keep two of them in a small aquarium. Some chasing is normal in a sorority tank, however, because the fish need to establish their dominance. Chasing and fighting can be a problem if you don’t keep enough of them together in the same tank.

    Why is my female betta attacking my other female betta?

    Competition for the best territory can make female betta fish aggressive. Unfortunately, this is just a part of their natural behavior. You can try adding more plants and hiding places to the aquarium so that the fighting fish can stay apart but it will be safer to separate them if the conflict gets serious.

    How do you know if your fish are fighting?

    You should spend some time watching for any fighting fish, especially in the first few days after putting the female fish together. Of course, you can’t watch all the time, however, so keep a lookout for fish with torn fins or other injuries. Female Siamese fighting fish that are stressed or hiding away from their tank mates can be a sign of fighting.

    Final Thoughts

    Female betta fish deserve more credit than they get in the hobby. These tropical fish make amazing pets for everyone from beginners right up to experts! If you’re new to fish keeping, a single female betta is the perfect first fish for you. If you’re a more experienced aquarist, however, a betta sorority tank could make a great new project.

    Do you keep female betta fish? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • White Cloud Minnow Fish (The Ultimate Care Guide)

    White Cloud Minnow Fish (The Ultimate Care Guide)

    There’s an interesting story behind the white cloud minnow fish which dates back to 1930. In the year 1930, a boy and a scout leader, named “Tan” discovered these beautiful freshwater aquarium fish in Southern China that we now call white cloud minnows or Tanichthys albonubes. Tanichthys means Tan’s fish and albonubes means white cloud. Hene, the name.

    White cloud mountain minnows are ideal for beginner aquarists as they are very hardy fish and easy to care for. Therefore, if you want a hassle-free fishkeeping experience, you’re about to make a great decision.

    Keep reading to find out more about mountain minnows!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameTanichthys albonubes
    Common NamesCanton danio, Chinese danio, white cloud, white cloud mountain fish, white cloud mountain minnow, white cloud minnow
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginWhite Cloud Mountain (Baiyun Shan), Guangdong province, China
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelVery easy
    ActivityPeaceful
    Lifespan5 to 7 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMiddle to top level
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range57ยฐF to 72ยฐF (ideal is 64ยฐF)
    Water HardnessLow, around 10 to 15 KH
    pH Range6.0 to 8.5 (around 6.8 and 7.5)
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    What Are White Cloud Mountain Minnows?

    The white cloud fish or the white cloud minnows (Poor man’s neon tetra) are tropical fish that are ideal for beginners. They were first discovered in China around 1930 and ever since they have instantly gained popularity in the freshwater aquarium industry.

    White Cloud Minnow in Planted Tank

    White cloud minnows belong to the family Cyprinidae of the Carp family which are cold water fish. Easy to care for and extremely hardy fish that require little maintenance. White clouds are considered a schooling fish. Hence, keep them in a group of five or more, otherwise, they will stress out and fade their vibrant color.

    Origin and Habitat

    The natural habitat of white cloud mountain minnows is the streams of Guangzhouโ€™s Baiyun (White Cloud) Mountain, where they were discovered. The water of these streams is clear and slightly acidic and the flow is low to moderate. This is a cold water fish that prefer low water temperature. However, in their natural habitat, they are almost extinct as stated by the Chinese government.

    Appearance

    The white cloud minnows are tropical fish that are small in size with dart-shaped bodies and pointed snouts. The bodies of these freshwater fish are slim and streamlined with their dorsal fin and ventral fins; triangular and pointing towards their bodies’ back. The upper part of the body is wider than the lower part, i.e., the tail with a soft-pointed snout.

    The triangular ventral and dorsal fin showcases hues of red and white on the edges. However, there are a few parts of the fin that are entirely transparent.

    The dominant color on white cloud minnows is soft brown which looks like a glistering bronze with a few hints of green here and there. The central part of their body possesses a horizontal line that follows the lateral line. This horizontal stripe is pink or white in color.

    Different Types

    There are two major varieties of white cloud mountain minnows.

    Meteor Minnow or The Long Finned Variety

    The meteor minnows are the long-finned variety of Tanichthys albonubes or the white cloud mountain minnow with noticeably long and flowy fins in the adults (video source).

    The long fins of meteor minnows are reddish in color, flowing behind them as they swim. This variety of cloud mountain minnows is more desirable because it has a beautiful overall appearance with a contrast between metallic scales and vibrant fin patches.

    Apart from the fins and other differences, the meteor minnows are exactly the same as standard white cloud mountain minnows in other aspects.

    Golden Cloud or The Gold White Cloud Mountain Variety

    If you see a minnow with a striking deep gold color, know that it’s a golden cloud mountain minnow. These fish species fall under the same scientific name, Tanichthys albonubes. Thus, an alluring variety of the white cloud mountain minnow. Like the Meteor minnow variety, the golden cloud also possesses red patches on the fin that pose a striking contrast with their classic gold color.

    Golden Cloud Mountain Minnow

    The female golden cloud mountain minnow has a pale white patch on their bellies, whereas, the male golden cloud lacks it.

    Lifespan

    In captivity, the life expectancy of white cloud mountain minnows is around five to seven years, provided that the water condition is optimal and within the suitable temperature. It is imperative to keep these aquarium fish in cooler waters as they are cold water fish that significantly lose their health and reduce their lifespan if kept in warmer temperatures.

    Average Size

    The average adult size of a white cloud mountain minnow is approximately around an inch and a half in length. Like other minnows, the white cloud mountain minnow is also a very small fish that thrive in a small fish tank.

    Fun fact: The white cloud mountain minnows rose to fame during the 1940s and 1950s. And during the period, they were more reasonably priced than other fish. That's the reason they are called Poor man's neon tetra because they were much more affordable than the expensive fish in the market. To date, despite having no relation to Danio breeds, white cloud minnows are sold by the names of Cardinal fish, Canton, and China Danio.

    Care

    Unlike other fish with genetic variation, the white cloud mountain minnow is hardy species that are excellent to keep as pets for beginners. They are cold water fish but due to their super flexible nature, white cloud minnows are known to thrive in different conditions.

    However, some things should be taken into consideration to keep them happy and thriving in your home aquariums.

    Aquarium Setup

    White cloud mountain minnows are freshwater, peaceful fish that grow no longer than 1.5 inches. The best part is it’s a schooling fish that enjoys the company of other fish such as Siamese fighting fish (Betta fish), Guppies, Rummy nose tetras, etc. And because of their shoaling nature, I suggest keeping them at least in a group of six fishes that are not aggressive and equal to the size of your white cloud minnow.

    Also, these fish thrive in the top and middle levels of the tank and rarely move to the bottom of the tank. Therefore, avoid floating plants that may cause a hindrance in their daily activities.

    Tank Size

    While going for a tank for community fish, bigger is always better. However, as far as the white cloud mountain minnows are concerned, they thrive in at least 10 to 12 gallons tanks which can accommodate a school of around six fish easily.

    However, if you want to keep more species in a community tank, aim for a bigger tank to provide them with lots of space for free swimming.

    Water Parameters

    Despite being a cold water fish, white cloud minnows are flexible when it comes to water temperature. They can survive in as low as 4ยฐF and can function well in the 64-72 ยฐF range. Due to this, you can easily keep them in unheated aquariums and fish bowls. Also, if you’re in places where the temperature is slightly lower than the recommended range, your white cloud mountain minnow will be a very comfortable and active fish.

    The recommended pH level for the white cloud mountain minnow tank is around 6.0 to 8.0 and on a slightly acidic side with a water column moderate to low.

    Filtration and Aeration

    The white cloud mountain minnow is sensitive to water quality. Therefore, keep an eye on the traces of Chlorine and Chloramine. Avoid it altogether by using a tap water conditioner. Seachem Prime is what I usually use. Also, I suggest avoiding extremes of pH and hard water for their healthy survival. In white cloud mountain minnows, the copper tolerance is zero. Therefore, make sure to eliminate copper traces from your aquarium, if any.

    For moderate flow, consider a power filter or purchasing a canister filter and limiting the flow on the return side.

    Lighting

    Though white cloud mountain minnow does just fine without tank lights, installing high-quality, adjustable tank lights make a huge difference.

    First of all, if you want your white cloud minnows to distinguish between day and night, which is essential for breeding, you need to install a tank light. Secondly, the lights in your tank keep your aquatic plant healthy. Thirdly, the tank lights help you monitor the overall health of your fish. Thus, lighting is important. However, the intensity of the light should be taken into consideration.

    White cloud mountain minnow appreciates subtly lit tanks, which also helps the color of your fish pop. I suggest installing an adjustable LED light in your aquarium tank with an automatic timer that turns off automatically during night hours.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    The natural environment of white cloud mountain minnows in freshwater streams and rivers comprises several live plants. And so, adding live plants to your aquarium tank is a must. I suggest keeping plants like dwarf rotala and water sprite. Avoid keeping floating plants in your tank as they may hinder their view, provided that white cloud minnows occupy the top and middle level of the tank.

    Live plants in the aquarium provide your minnows with a safe place in a form of shelter. Some great examples of live plants are Hornwort, Pondweed, and Duckweed.

    The decorations should also constitute a significant part of your tank because the white cloud minnow is an active fish that like to move and hide in a few places here and there. Driftwoods, rocks, and caves should be added to your tank to make your aquarium worthwhile for minnows. You can also add rocks or other ornaments to give your tank an interesting look.

    I don’t recommend adding floating plants. However, if you must, invest in those plants that don’t obstruct your minnows from free swimming near the top or middle of the tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    When it comes to cleaning, even the hardiest fish won’t compromise. So why should your beloved white cloud mountain minnow?

    White cloud minnows are vulnerable to toxins such as Ammonia, Copper, Chlorine, and Chloramine. Therefore, proper cleaning and filtration are imperative to increase their life expectancy and improve their overall health,

    I recommended cleaning the filter at least once a month to maintain a healthy ecosystem.

    Pro Tips:

    1. Cycle your tank entirely to avoid toxic buildups of nitrogen and ammonia in your tank
    2. A minimum of 15% of the water should be replaced every week
    3. Maintain the water temperature, pH levels, and hardness of water to keep your tank conditions optimal

    Substrate

    While white cloud mountain minnows spend most of their time at the top or middle of your tank, it’s still important to pay special attention to the substrate. 

    White cloud mountain minnows enjoy a variety of substrates, ranging from sand, gravel, pebbles, or rocks. I recommend getting a dark-colored sand and gravel mixture to complement the beautiful colors of your cloud minnows. Make sure to get the gravel large enough so your fish can’t swallow it and choke.

    Community Tank Mates

    If you’re introducing your white cloud mountain minnows for the first time in an aquarium, I suggest adding them in groups of at least six to avoid stressful behavior. Also, make sure to add them with even-tempered fish to avoid conflicts. 

    The best community tank mates for white cloud mountain minnows are:

    1. Rosy barbs
    2. Guppies
    3. Endlers Livebearers
    4. Pristella Tetras
    5. Rummy Nose Tetras
    6. Harlequin Rasboras
    7. Scissortail Rasboras
    8. Lemon Tetras
    9. Black Widow Tetras
    10. Emperor Tetras
    11. Head and Tail Light Tetras
    12. Glass Bloodfin Tetras
    13. Swordtails, Platies
    14. Mollies
    15. Zebra Danios
    16. Glowlight Tetras
    17. Cherry Barbs 
    18. Corydoras catfish, e.g., Peppered catfish
    19. Paradise fish

    Incompatible Tank Mates

    Avoid all large and aggressive fish that might end up swallowing your white cloud mountain minnows.

    Some incompatible tank mates for white cloud mountain minnows are:

    1. Most Cichlids
    2. Tiger barbs
    3. Paraguay
    4. Buenos Aires Tetras
    5. Colombian Tetras

    Many people consider small goldfish to be a great tank mate for white cloud minnows. However, I don’t recommend keeping goldfish and white cloud mountain minnows together, as goldfish will eventually prey on your white minnows.

    Breeding

    White cloud mountain minnow reaches maturity around six to twelve months, and the process before breeding is a beautiful sight to behold.

    Adult white cloud mountain minnows flare their fins and perform a ritual dance, attracting the females. It’s a kind of competition for males to outperform each other, winning the females during the mating cycle. During this process, males can nip at one another to show minor aggression, but this aggression doesn’t lead to serious skirmish. 

    When it comes to breeding, the white cloud mountain minnows are the easiest fish species to breed without any difficulty even if you’re a novice breeder. Since white cloud minnows are egg scatterers (lays eggs throughout the year), it’s easy to breed them in any season. 

    The best part about breeding these incredible species is you don’t necessarily need a separate breeding tank for your white minnows. Keep them in their standard tank with clumps of aquatic plants and a spawning mop where your fish can easily scatter their eggs. Make sure to keep the pH level, hardness, and temperature level in an optimal range. After the eggs are fertilized, the fry doesn’t need their parents’ help.

    Even though unnecessary, I suggest spawning your white minnows in a separate breeding tank to protect the newly hatched fry from quickly becoming food. For a breeding tank, you need a tank as small as 5 gallons that safely accommodates a single adult pair. But since there’s no issue of male aggression in mountain minnows, you can keep two or three males together. Keep the temperature, pH levels, and water hardness within optimal limits. I also suggest adding java mass as a spawning channel.

    During spawning, females lay eggs that will hatch in around two days. After the eggs are fertilized, they don’t need parental care and guidance and can be seen swimming freely in the water. It’s recommended to feed infusoria or luqifry to the newly hatched fry.

    After the fry is around a week old, you can feed them baby brine shrimp or crushed fish flakes of high-quality flake food. The fry will reach 1/2 inch in less than four months, and reach their full potential size within a year.

    Food and Diet

    In their native habitat, white cloud mountain minnows are carnivorous. Their primary diet includes small insect larvae, worms, and crustaceans. However, in captivity, the same species are omnivorous that happily accept a varied diet, including vegetation and green algae in the water. But in order to keep their colors bright and shimmery, you need to feed them high-quality protein content as in flake or pellet food to improve their overall health and ensure longevity.

    Besides, small insect larvae, white cloud mountain minnows eat mosquito larvae and daphnia fondly.

    How Often Should You Feed Them?

    Don’t be fooled by their tiny size. White cloud mountain minnows, despite being small fish, have big appetites. It’s recommended to feed them two or three times a day. However, since their stomachs are tiny, avoid overfeeding them or it will create health issues.

    Common Health Problems and Diseases

    Even though a hardy fish, white cloud mountain minnows can also experience some common health problems and diseases like most fish, including ich, dropsy, and fin rot.

    However, the most common disease in white cloud mountain minnows is streptococcal infections.

    Streptococcal Infection

    This is a type of infection caused by bacteria. The symptoms of this disease are:

    1. Fish swimming erratically
    2. Inability to hold itself towards the water surface
    3. Sinking down to the bottom of the tank

    The causes of strep infections are mainly unhygienic conditions of the tank. To keep your fish away from health issues and diseases, change the water regularly ad install a foolproof filtration system. Also, be careful about the temperature range.

    Differences Between Male and Female

    If you have a problem differentiating between male and female white cloud minnows, rememberโ€”males are thinner than females with slender bodies. Also, the colors are more vivid in males than in females. Male white clouds show hues of red around their fins and mouth area and the nature is quite aggressive as compared to females.

    On the other hand, females are usually round in shape and possess no red hints whatsoever.

    FAQs

    How many should be kept together?

    White cloud mountain minnows are shoaling and schooling fish that enjoys the company of a group ofย at least six fishย in a single tank.

    What size tank do they need?

    White cloud mountain minnows are small fish that need a minimum tank size of aroundย 10- 12 gallons.

    What fish can I put with them?

    Any fish that are small and even-tempered. Some of the best tank mates of white cloud mountain minnows are:

    Rosy barbs
    Guppies
    Endlers Guppies
    Pristella Tetras
    Rummy Nose Tetras
    Harlequin Rasboras
    Scissortail Rasboras
    Lemon Tetras
    Black Widow Tetras
    Emperor Tetras
    Head and Tail Light Tetras
    Glass Bloodfin Tetras
    Swordtails, Platies
    Mollies
    Zebra Danios
    Glowlight Tetras
    Cherry Barbsย 

    Do they need a heater?

    Besides being a coldwater fish, white cloud mountain minnows prefer lower temperatures of aroundย 57ยฐF to 72ยฐF (the ideal is 64ยฐF).ย Thus, they don’t need a heater. However, a chiller would be essential in hot, humid places.

    Are they good fish?

    White clouds are excellent freshwater fish that are small, colorful, and peaceful. Also, they love being in a community tank around fish of their size and temperament. White clouds are also hardy fish that require little to no care.

    However, the only requirement to keep them happy and thriving is keeping their tank clean and providing them with the optimal water parameters.

    How many can be kept in a 15-gallon tank?

    You can keep around 10 male white clouds in a 15-gallon tank. Since females are active and slightly larger fish, it’s recommended to keep 7 or 8 female white clouds in a 15-gallon tank.

    How long do they live?

    The estimated age of white clouds in captivity is around 5 to 7 years, provided that the water quality is top-notch and the food is rich in protein and other nutrients.

    Are they fin nippers?

    No, unlike other species, white clouds are not finย nippers.

    Final Thoughts

    The white cloud minnow is a peaceful freshwater fish that is both; beautiful and hardy. They are small fish that need a minimum tank size of no larger than 10 to 15 gallons stocked with aquatic live plants and decorations.

    The only requirement to keep them thriving and happy is a clean tank and nutritious diet that promote their healthy color, and immune system, and increase their life expectancy.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Schooling Fish Species – 15 To Keep (With Pictures!)

    Schooling Fish Species – 15 To Keep (With Pictures!)

    Are you looking for the perfect fish species to bring your home aquarium to life?

    We often try to add as many different species to our tanks as possible, but focusing on one species can make all the difference. Adding a school of beautiful tropical fish to your freshwater aquarium is the first step toward setting up an awesome community tank.

    Ready to learn more? Let’s get started!

    What Are Schooling Fish?

    Schooling aquarium fish are the species that hang out together in groups. They often swim around the tank together with such harmony that they almost look like one animal!

    This social behavior has some important benefits for schooling fish, which is why they really don’t like to be separated from other members of their species (video source).

    There are many different types of schooling aquarium fish in the hobby, and they are often amazingly colorful and peaceful fish. Schooling fish range in size from under an inch in length to real monsters that grow to several feet.

    This article focuses on the best small schooling fish that your average fish keeper can have great success with.

    Schooling vs. shoaling- What’s the difference?

    We often use the terms schooling and shoaling interchangeably, but there is actually a difference. Technically, fish that are schooling will all be facing in the same direction and moving together in a tight group.

    Shoaling fish are also found together, but they might be feeding and going about their own business in a loose group near the other fish.

    15 of the best species

    Now that you know what schooling fish are, let’s dive right in and get to know 15 of the best schooling species that could look great in your own aquarium.

    I’ll start with the most important care facts for each species and provide a brief description of what makes each type so amazing.

    Take note of these requirements when choosing your favorite species:

    • Scientific name
    • Care level
    • Minimum tank size
    • Temperament
    • Adult size
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Diet
    • School size

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel so you can follow along. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you enjoy our content, please subscribe to us on YouTube. We post videos every week!

    1. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15-30 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Size: 1-4 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 74-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 5+

    There are several species of corydoras catfish and all of them are great schooling aquarium fish. These peaceful fish are so much fun to watch as they cruise around the bottom of the tank looking for food in the substrate.

    Corydoras catfish spend most of their time shoaling, but they will school up to move around in the aquarium. If you watch carefully, you might see these funny fish wink at you, and don’t be surprised to see them shoot up to the surface to take a breath of air every now and then.

    2. Chili Rasbora

    Chili Rasboras
    Chili Rasboras

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    A great nano schooling fish. Males display brighter colors. Best in groups of 6 or more

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    • Scientific name: Boraras brigittae
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Tank size: 5 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 0.75 inches
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • School size: 8+

    The chili rasbora is a truly tiny fish species from Southeast Asia. These nano fish can do great in a fish tank as small as 5 gallons so they’re awesome for aquarists who don’t have space for a larger setup.

    Chili rasboras can be a little shy around larger fish but will feel more confident in a planted tank with a dark substrate and some floating plants.

    3. Harlequin Rasboras

    Harlequin Rasbora
    Harlequin Rasbora

    A peaceful schooling fish. An ideal community fish. A great beginner fish

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    • Scientific name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1.5 inches
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 8+

    No list of schooling fish would be complete without mentioning the awesome harlequin rasbora! These excellent freshwater fish are instantly recognizable by the blackish-blue triangular patch on either side of their body.

    Harlequin rasboras are perfect fish for beginners because they get along great with so many other peaceful community fish. Just be sure to keep your harlequin rasboras in a nice big school to see them at their most confident.

    4. Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetra
    Neon Tetra

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    One of the most popular freshwater community schooling fish available in the aquarium trade. Great neon blue colors!

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    • Scientific name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1 inch
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-77ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 8+

    The neon tetra hardly needs any introduction. It is no surprise that they are one of the most popular schooling fishing aquarium hobbies!

    Neon tetras look almost too colorful to be real, and they are super peaceful and easy to care for too. Pick up a big group of 20 or more neon tetras if you want a really awesome display tank.

    5. Cardinal Tetra

    Cardinal Tetra
    Cardinal Tetra

    A very popular schooling fish. Looks like the Neon Tetra, but with longer blue and red stripes. Grows larger than a neon tetra as well

    Click For Best Price Buy From Petco Online
    • Scientific name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1.25 inches
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 73-84ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 8+

    The cardinal tetra looks very similar to the neon tetra but they are not the same species. These amazing schooling tetras have a deep red stripe that runs almost the length of their entire body.

    Cardinal tetras are not as common as neons and they can be a little more tricky to care for, especially if they are wild-caught. Choose these incredible tetra fish if you want a splash of amazing color in your tank.

    6. Otocinclus Catfish

    Otocinclus Catfish
    Otocinclus Catfish

    A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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    • Scientific name: Otocinclus sp.
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 10 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 2 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • School size: 6+

    Otocinclus catfish are an awesome schooling species for a planted tank. Ok, they might not be as colorful as some of the other species in this list, but ‘otos’ have other great benefits.

    These peaceful community fish are specialized algae eaters, and they do an amazing job of keeping freshwater aquariums clean!

    They are suckerfish that feed on surfaces like driftwood, plants, and even glass. It’s important to keep these helpful fish in a tank with a good supply of algae to make sure they stay well-fed.

    7. Glass Catfish

    Glass Catfish in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Kryptopterus vitreolus
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Tank size: 30 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 2-2.5 inches
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • School size: 6+

    If you’re looking for something strange and unusual for your aquarium, look no further than the glass catfish.

    These guys aren’t very colorful, in fact, they have almost no color at all! It’s amazing to watch these peaceful schooling fish because you can see right into their bodies.

    8. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    White Cloud Mountain Minnow
    White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

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    • Scientific name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 10 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1.5 inches
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 58-72ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8.5
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • School size: 8+

    White cloud mountain minnows are coldwater fish from China that look awesome in a school of their own kind. These inexpensive fish usually don’t need a heater, so it’s important to keep the white cloud mountain minnow separate from tropical fish that enjoy higher temperatures.

    There are a few varieties of white cloud mountain minnows available in the hobby, including a popular form with longer fins and an awesome gold morph.

    9. Rummy Nose Tetra

    Rummy Nose Tetra
    Rummy Nose Tetra

    An easy to care for Tetra fish that loves to school. Very peaceful fish that are great for beginners

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    • Scientific name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus/ H. bleheri
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 20 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 2 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 76-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 10+

    These popular schooling fish are known for their bright red nose or face. Rummy nose tetras are great fish for community tanks because they are so peaceful and easy-going!

    Rummy nose tetras are very active fish that spend their time schooling in the top and middle layers of the tank. The rummy nose tetra needs plenty of swimming space and a school of at least 10 to really shine.

    10. Red Eye Tetra

    Red Eye Tetra
    • Scientific name: Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 20 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 2.8 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 6+

    The red-eye tetra is an elegant silvery fish with just enough color to make things interesting. They are hardy fish which makes them a great choice for beginner fish keepers.

    You will love watching these peaceful fish schools and hanging out at the mid-water level of your aquarium. These easy-schooling fish grow a little larger than most other tetras so it is best to keep them in large tanks with plenty of swimming space.

    11. Ember Tetra

    Ember Tetra
    Ember Tetra

    A small red tetra that grows up to 1.25 inches. A very peaceful schooling fish

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    • Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 10 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 0.75 inches
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • School size: 8+

    The ember tetra is also known as the flame tetra because of its bright orange color. They are great nano fish that look amazing in a big school. These tiny tetras don’t need a big tank, but they do prefer slightly acidic water.

    The ember tetra is an amazing choice for a nano-planted aquarium. They will look and act their best in a school of at least 8, but consider a much larger group if you have the space!

    12. Cherry Barb

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

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    • Scientific name: Puntius titteya
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 15 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 6+

    Cherry barbs are rewarding fish that are a perfect choice for beginners and experts alike. These Asian fish from the carp family are not aggressive fish like their relatives the tiger barbs.

    The huge scales, deep orange color, and dark lateral stripe make these eye-catching aquarium fish great for a display tank. Cherry barbs are highly social creatures, so consider picking up a school of 10 or more to really see them thrive.

    13. Serpae Tetra

    Serpae Tetra Fish
    • Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon eques
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Tank size: 20 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult size: 1.5 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 10+

    Serpae tetras are stunning fish. They are generally peaceful but they can have a bit of a mean streak. Keeping them in a large school of ten or more is the best strategy to minimize aggression but choosing the right tankmates is also important.

    Other semi-aggressive and slightly bigger fish make good tank mates for serpae tetras. Smaller fish with long fins should be avoided.

    14. Danio Fish

    Giant Danio Fish in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Care level: Easy
    • Tank size: 20 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 64-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • School size: 8+

    Danios are great schooling and shoaling fish for freshwater aquariums. There are many awesome species, but the well-known zebra danio is one of the best examples.

    Zebra danios are one of the most popular schooling fish because they are so affordable and get along great with so many different tank mates in community tanks.

    These fish love to school in the middle and upper layers of the tank, and they don’t need a heater because they are comfortable in cooler water temperatures. Zebra danio fish are active swimmers so they need plenty of swimming space to stay healthy.

    15. Rainbow Fish

    Rainbow Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia spp.
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Tank size: 15-30 gallons or more
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult size: 2.5-4.5 inches
    • Origin: Australia & New Guinea
    • Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • School size: 6+

    There are many beautiful rainbowfish species in the hobby, including popular species like the neon and Boeseman’s rainbowfish. These peaceful fish are great for planted aquariums where they will school in the top and midwater levels of the fish tank.

    The different species of rainbowfish have slightly different needs so make sure you research each species carefully before adding it to your tank.

    School Size – Does it matter?

    All the fish mentioned in this article are social fish that need to be kept in groups to be happy. One common question that pops up is whether you can put together a school of one of each different species and unfortunately, the answer is generally no.

    Schooling fish will form mixed schools sometimes, but it’s important that you have the minimum number of each species. Schooling fish can be extremely shy if they are kept on their own, and they won’t show all the fascinating natural social behaviors that you’ll see in a big group.

    Most schooling fish will do really well in groups of 6 to 10 individuals. This is a minimum number, and you can go much much higher if you have the space. Remember, many of these fish occur in schools of hundreds or even thousands in their natural habitat.

    Choosing Tank Mates

    Many fish keepers prefer to keep more than one species of fish in their aquarium, but how do you know which other fish will get along together? Let’s take a look at some of the most important factors when putting together a community tank with schooling fish.

    Fish Size

    Big fish have a habit of eating little fish. Any tank mate that is large enough to swallow one of the other fish whole should be avoided. Most schooling fish stay pretty small, so it’s best to choose similar-sized tank mates.

    Minimum Tank Size & Filter Capacity

    Your tank needs to be big enough for each species to live comfortably. You also need to take care not to overstock your tank by adding too many fish. Most of the fish in this list will do great in a tank of 15-20 gallons, but if you want a really big school, a 30-gallon tank is a great choice.

    A big enough tank and high-quality filtration are both very important factors for a healthy tank full of schooling and shoaling fish. I always recommend buying the best quality filter in your budget.

    Temperament

    Some fish are known to be aggressive and territorial. These fish usually don’t make the best community fish. Avoid semi-aggressive fish like the tiger barb and territorial African cichlids when choosing tank mates for your schooling and shoaling fish. Also, avoid aggressive fish that will eat your schooling fish.

    Water Parameters

    All of the tank mates that you keep in a community tank should be comfortable in the same water temperatures and parameters.

    White cloud minnows and zebra danios, for example, like cooler water temperatures so they aren’t going to be comfortable with tropical fish like the rummy nose tetra. Other parameters like pH are just as important.

    Avoid keeping hard water fish like livebearers with cardinal tetras and other species that prefer slightly acidic water.

    Where To Buy

    All of the great fish in this list are really popular and easy to find. You should have no problem finding them down at your local pet shop or fish store. You can also buy your fish online from a trusted online dealer. Now that’s convenient!

    Fish For Larger Tanks

    We covered smaller fish in this article, but we have videos on larger fish for larger aquariums. Check them out below.

    FAQs

    What does schooling do for fish?

    Schooling is a natural behavior for many fish species that helps them stay safe from predators. By living in big groups, fish are able to maintain safety in numbers. Keeping schooling fish in big groups ensures that the fish stay confident and behave in their natural ways.

    How many should I get?

    Most schooling fish can be kept in groups of 6 to 10, but keeping a dozen or more will ensure the most natural behaviors.

    Can they live with other schooling fish?

    Schooling fish often occur in mixed schools of other similarly sized fish in nature. This is possible in aquariums too if you have enough space and the correct water parameters.

    What freshwater fish can school together?

    Most freshwater schooling fish will school together if they are comfortable in the same water parameters. Size is also important, however, and small fish will often avoid larger species.

    What is the smallest variety?

    The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is the smallest schooling fish in the aquarium hobby. These tiny fish grow to just 0.75 inches in length and are ideal for planted nano aquariums.

    Final Thoughts

    There’s something really special about the way fish school together when they are kept in large groups. This fascinating behavior is something we fish keepers never get tired of watching. Keeping a healthy school of colorful tropical fish is easy with the right knowledge. Choose any of the species in this list with confidence and watch your aquarium burst with life!

    What is your favorite schooling freshwater fish? Let us know in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How To Treat Ich On Fish – 6 Prevention Tips and 1 Go To Cure!

    How To Treat Ich On Fish – 6 Prevention Tips and 1 Go To Cure!

    Have you noticed white spots all over your aquarium fish? This is a symptom of ich, and you’re going to need to treat it soon. The good news is that you can solve this problem with the right knowledge and medications, and that’s just what this article is about!

    Ich or white spot disease is a very common, and serious freshwater fish parasite. Most fishkeepers will encounter this problem at some time or another. In this article, we’ll cover everything you need to know about how to treat ich on fish (and how to prevent it in the first place).

    What You Need To Know (The Facts)

    NameIchthyophthirius multifiliis
    Common TreatmentsIch medication such as Ich X, Salt, Heat treatment
    CausesProtozoan external parasite
    Common Symptomssmall white spots on the fish’s skin and fins, rapid breathing, fish scratching and flashing against objects, drooping fins, clenched fins, surface breathing

    What Is Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis)

    Ich is a common parasite that affects all freshwater fish. This type of parasite is known as a protozoan (single-celled organism) and it can be found in both wild and captive fish. The parasite is surprisingly large, measuring up to a millimeter in length. Ich can multiply very quickly, and without treatment, it tends to result in fish deaths.

    Ich is visible on infected fish as small white ‘spots’ on the fish’s skin and fins. These white spots can multiply rapidly, and unfortunately, the disease is quite advanced by the time these spots become visible. The spots tend to stand out more clearly on darker species and can be pretty difficult to detect on white fish.

    Sometimes these white spots will not be visible at all if the parasite is only feeding on the gills of the fish. In such cases, you will notice that the gills become swollen and pale. Infected fish can show other symptoms too, such as fish rubbing against the gravel, losing body condition, or they may stop eating.

    The Ich Life Cycle

    Understanding the life cycle of ich is really important because it is only treatable in certain stages. The life cycle of the ich parasite is temperature-dependent, and it runs through the different stages faster in warmer water. In a heated tropical tank, for example, the parasite can complete the whole cycle in under a week.

    Let’s take a look at the 3 stages of the ich lifecycle1:

    Freshwater Ich Cycle
    Image from University of Kentucky Drawing by Wyvette Williams and Drew Mitchell

    Stage 1- Trophont

    This is the parasitic stage where ich is visible and most easily detected. At this stage, the parasite is attached to your fish and feeding. It attaches itself to healthy fish by burrowing through their epithelium to feed on the surrounding tissue.

    During the trophont stage, ich is visible as small white spots (raised lesions) on the fins and skin. Sometimes ich is confined to the gills of the fish, in which case you will not be able to see any white spots.

    Freshwater Ich

    The parasite is protected by the slime coat on the fish’s body so unfortunately, it is not treatable with medications during this stage.

    Stage 2- Tomont

    The tomont is the reproductive stage of ich protozoa. The trophont stops feeding and leaves the host fish when it is mature. At this stage, the tomont protects itself by encasing itself in a sticky, protective capsule.

    The protected tomont settles on the substrate or other surface within the aquarium and multiplies within its protective covering. The tomont starts as a single organism, but multiplies into 100-1000 new parasites during this stage!

    Unfortunately, the parasites are still not treatable in the tomont stage because they are protected within a cyst.

    Stage 3- Theront

    Depending on the water temperature, the third stage can begin within just a day or take as long as several weeks. In this stage, the theronts leave the protective cyst and swim free in the water to look for a new host fish to feed on.

    They must find a host within 2 to 3 days or they will die. At this stage, the parasite is not protected and can be treated with the appropriate ich medications. The parasite will progress into the trophont stage if the free-swimming theront succeeds in attaching itself to a freshwater fish.

    Preventing White Spot Disease In Freshwater Fish

    Now that you know how to treat freshwater ich, let’s take a look at how to prevent it from attacking your fish tank. Remember, prevention is always better than cure!

    In this section, we’ll take a look at 6 effective strategies to prevent ich in freshwater fish. These strategies are also useful for preventing several other problems in freshwater aquariums.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Start Early

    Ich gets into aquariums on infected fish, live plants, and any other materials that have been in an infected tank, including the water. You can minimize the risk by setting up a planted aquarium a week or more before adding the first fish. This is an important practice anyway to allow your tank to cycle.

    By starting early, any ich parasites present on the plants will die because they will not be able to find a host fish in time. Another great way to avoid parasites on live plants is to purchase only tissue culture plants. These plants are parasite free and grown in labs.

    2. Buy Smart

    Take a good look at all the fish on display at your local fish store. Do any of them show signs of disease or ich? You can save yourself some trouble down the road by selecting healthy fish from the start.

    Online shopping has become easier and more accessible to people all over the world, but it makes inspecting the fish a little tricky. Fortunately, trusted online retailers have built a name for themselves by taking great care of their livestock so you don’t need to worry.

    Sometimes fish can look perfectly healthy when you first get them but develop symptoms after a few days in your care. That’s why this next step is so important!

    3. Quarantine

    The most important thing you can do to prevent ich in your aquarium is to quarantine new fish and plants. In cooler water, Ich usually shows up on new fish after 1 to 3 weeks, so go ahead and quarantine your fish for 4 weeks before introducing them to your main tank.

    Ich tends to become apparent much faster in water temperatures between 75ยฐF and 83ยฐF so a week or so is usually sufficient to rule out ich in tropical species. Ich is not the only common aquarium disease, however, and some conditions take longer to show up. Ich is also difficult to detect in cases where it is confined to the gills, so a quarantine period of a month is a safer bet.

    Treatment is easier if you notice any signs of ich or other illness in your fish during the quarantine period. You can simply treat the fish in the quarantine tank and avoid treating your whole display tank.

    Ich is not only present on fish of course. The free-swimming theront stage can be introduced in aquarium water, and the sticky tomont stage can be spread on plants, ornaments, or other items from infected aquariums. Avoid adding any water from another tank directly into your aquarium and leave ornaments and hardscape from other tanks to dry out for a few days before cleaning them thoroughly.

    If you want to learn more about quarantine, check out my quarantine post. While the post is marine fish-focused, the same process applies. Freshwater fish are typically not pre-treated though. Usually, observation can work in freshwater tanks because the vast majority of freshwater fish are tank bred now and diseases aren’t as deadly compared to marine tanks.

    4. Stick To Aquarium-Safe Products

    Avoid introducing any wild collected rocks, gravel, driftwood, or other materials from ponds or other natural water sources. These environments can carry ich and all sorts of other parasites and unwanted organisms.

    5. Water Quality

    Keeping a clean tank is very important because fish in aquariums with poor water quality will be stressed and have a weakened immune system. This makes them even weaker against fish diseases like ich. Even fish that have been successfully treated for ich will be far more susceptible to secondary infections in low-quality water.

    Running a quality aquarium filter that is big enough for your tank and performing regular aquarium maintenance and partial water changes are vital for maintaining high water quality. You will also need to test your water regularly for the presence of ammonia, nitrite, and elevated nitrate levels.

    Avoid overstocking your aquarium with too many fish since ich can spread rapidly in overcrowded fish tanks. Too many fish and too much fish food are also common causes of poor water quality.

    6. Prevent Stress

    Poor quality water and detectable ammonia levels are not the only cause of stress and a compromised immune system. The following other factors will also put your tank inhabitants at higher risk:

    • Improper diet
    • Incorrect water parameters
    • Incorrect tank temperature
    • Too much or too little water flow

    How To Treat and How To Cure

    Now that you know more about ich, its life cycle, and how to prevent it, you’re ready to learn how to treat this common aquarium fish disease.

    White spot disease is not something that will go away on its own, so starting treatment is very important as soon as you notice an ich outbreak. This parasite can multiply rapidly in an infected tank, and unfortunately, you can lose all of your fish if you don’t take the right steps.

    Some fish seem to be more resistant to ich than others, but all fish can be affected. Some species, like clown loaches, are particularly prone to attack by this parasite.

    Let’s jump right into the best ways to treat freshwater ich.

    Which Medication To Use

    The Ichthyophthirius multifiliis parasite is sensitive to the following chemicals in its free-swimming theront stage:

    • Malachite green
    • Methylene blue
    • Copper sulfate
    • Formalin
    • Potassium permanganate

    There are a number of ich medications on the market today, but one product that has proven itself in the industry is Ich-X from Hikari. Ich-X contains a combination of effective chemicals in a safer but highly effective dose that will not harm sensitive fish or scaleless fish. If you can get your hands on a bottle, I would highly recommend this product!

    How To Use Ich X

    Let’s take a look at how to use Ich-X to treat ich in your freshwater aquarium.

    Dosage

    Ich x should be added to your aquarium at a dose of 5 ml per 10 gallons of aquarium water. The dosage is very important, so do your best to calculate the actual volume of water in your aquarium excluding substrate, ornaments, and other objects that take up space.

    This should be repeated every 8-24 hours continuously for at least 3 days after the last signs of ich are visible on your fish.

    Treatment is most effective if you can move all of your fish into a quarantine tank. This ensures that any theronts that emerge in your main tank will die off within about 3 days in tropical temperatures because they will not find a host to continue their life cycle.

    By moving your fish into a quarantine tank, and following the recommended dosage, you can treat your fish in the shortest possible time.

    Timing

    Treating ich is only possible while the parasite is in its free-swimming theront stage, so a single dose of medication will not solve the problem. Repeat doses are very important, and the length of time between doses will vary depending on the water temperature.

    In the warm water of tropical aquariums, the ich life cycle is much faster and you can treat ich with once-daily treatments for 3-5 days.

    Treatment of coldwater fish takes much longer because the parasite spends more time in the tomont stage. In cold water, you should space the treatments out to one dose every 3-5 days. A total of 5 doses will be necessary, so treatment time will take 15-25 days in total.

    You can speed up the treatment of ich by increasing the water temperature in your tank. This speeds up the life cycle of the ich parasite. In a tropical aquarium, increasing the water temperature to the lower 80s is usually safe for most fish but this method is not suitable for goldfish and other coldwater species.

    Filtration

    You can leave your filter on while administering Ich-X, but be sure to remove any activated carbon media from your filter. This is important because activated carbon will absorb the medication and potentially make it less effective.

    Water Changes

    It takes a little work but you will need to perform a 30% water change just before each dose. Be sure to remove as much organic material and waste from the aquarium as possible with your gravel vacuum. This will help to remove as many tomonts from the tank as possible before they can enter the water column in search of a new host.

    Safety

    Malachite green is a toxic chemical, so safety is very important for both your aquarium fish and yourself. Take precautions to keep this product away from your eyes and skin. The product is also not safe for live plants.

    Aquarium Salt & Non-Chemical Treatments

    It is possible to treat ich without any chemicals by changing the water temperature in the tank. This method can be very stressful for fish and plants, however, and should never be used on coldwater fish species.

    To use this method, slowly increase your water temperature to 90ยฐF and keep it there for 24 hours. Next, turn down the heater to 70ยฐF and maintain this temperature for 48 hours. By repeating this process, the ich should be killed off after 2 weeks or so.

    A UV sterilizer can be useful for controlling parasites, as well as other disease-causing organisms in your aquarium. UV sterilizers will not necessarily kill all the ich in your tank but they will help to manage the problem by killing the free-swimming theronts in the water column.

    Treatment with aquarium salt (not table salt) also works but this can be risky because some fish and aquarium plants are sensitive to salt.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How do I get rid of ick in my fish tank?

    The best way to kill ich in most aquariums is to use an ich treatment product like Ich-X. The treatment will take several days with the correct dosages and dosage rates.

    What is the best treatment for ick?

    There are several treatments that have been used to cure ich in freshwater fish. These involve changes in temperature and chemicals like salt, malachite green, copper sulfate, and formaldehyde. Aquarium products like Ich-X have been formulated to provide safe and effective treatment.

    Will ick go away on its own?

    Unfortunately, ick does not go away on its own. It can also spread to other fish in the same tank as the disease progresses, so it’s vital to act as soon as you detect this very common disease.

    Can a fish survive ick?

    Most fish with a healthy immune system can survive ich if it is treated in time. It has been suggested that fish that have survived ich are less susceptible to future outbreaks because they develop an immune response.

    How did my fish get ick?

    Your fish may have had ich before you got it or it may have been infected by new fish. Adding water, live plants, gravel, or any other object from other aquariums can also introduce freshwater fish ich.

    How do you get rid of ick on fish?

    Unfortunately, the ich parasite cannot be treated directly while it is visible on your fish. It will only be present on your fish for a few days before beginning the next stage of its life cycle.

    Once ich enters the free-swimming stage, it will be sensitive to chemical treatments with products like Ich-X, salt, temperature changes, or a combination of these treatments.

    References

    • Francis-Floyd, R., Pouder, D., & Yanong, R. Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis (White Spot) Infections In Fish. University of Florida, 2018
    • Xu, D. Preventing Ich. Tropical Fish Hobbyist Magazine. 2014
    • Dickerson, Harry W., and D. L. Dawe. “Ichthyophthirius multifiliis and Cryptocaryon irritans (phylum Ciliophora).” Fish diseases and disorders 1 (2006): 116-153.
    • Dickerson, Harry W., P. T. K. Woo, and K. Buchmann. “Ichthyophthirius multifiliis.” Fish Parasites: Pathobiology and Protection, ed. PTK Woo (Wallingford: CABI) (2011): 55-72.

    Final Thoughts

    White spot disease can be devastating in the home aquarium. The good news is that treating ich is possible with the right knowledge, medications, and techniques. The most important thing you can do is to get started right away and treat ich as soon as you notice it.

    Have you cured ich in your aquarium? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

  • 10 Types Of Aquarium Algae (And How To Get Rid Of Them!)

    10 Types Of Aquarium Algae (And How To Get Rid Of Them!)

    Do you have algae in your fish tank? This is a problem that all aquarists deal with from time to time. In fact, algae are present in all aquariums to some extent. It can get a little out of control sometimes, but fortunately, there are ways to get your tank cleaned up and looking great again.

    In this article, I’ll cover ten of the most common types of aquarium algae, and how you can prevent and get rid of algae when it becomes a problem. Let’s get started!

    What Is Algae?

    Algae are simple plants that do not have stems, roots, or flowers. They do not have leaves, but they also photosynthesize just like more advanced plants do.

    Some of the algae that grow in aquariums are not actually true algae, but rather photosynthetic bacteria. Algae is interesting, and sometimes even beautiful, but it is usually unwelcome in our fish tanks!

    Continue reading to learn more about this common aquarium villain.

    Understanding It’s Role

    One thing to note is while we call it a villain as a hobbyist, algae serves a beneficial role in the wild. Algae is a nutrient absorber. The more nutrients available, the more it will grow. This fuel needed to grow is light and ammonia. Light is coming from your fixture, and ammonia is coming from your livestock. If you have a ton of light set up – such as with a professional aquascape, you will tend to create more algae to start than those with low light plants in the beginning.

    Algae grows when there are nutrients available. Algae growth can be outcompete with plants or limited by proper water sources as other sources like nitrates and phosphates can contribute to the overgrowth1

    Where Does It Come From?

    Many types of algae are microscopic single-celled life forms, so they can easily find their way into aquariums from the air. Another common way for algae to enter aquariums is in the water that live fish are transported in, or on live plants. As you can tell, keeping algae out of an aquarium is not easy!

    Keeping a hood over your tank, quarantining your livestock, and buying tissue culture plants are good strategies for minimizing the number of algae that comes into your aquarium.

    11 Reasons Why You Have Overgrowth

    This is a question that has caused much debate in the aquarium hobby.

    What is Aquarium Algae

    Aquariums are like tiny ecosystems. There are incredibly complex processes at work in our tanks involving chemical, and biological processes. We don’t fully understand all the causes of algae growth, but we do know enough to manage algae quite effectively.

    Algae is present in pretty much every aquarium, but what makes it grow out of control in some tanks? Let’s take a look at some of the most important causes:

    1. Inadequate Equipment

    While some advanced aquarists are able to maintain beautiful planted tanks with limited equipment, this usually ends in failure for most of us. Aquarium hardware can get expensive, but you definitely get what you pay for, so always invest in the best that you can afford.

    Let’s take a closer look:

    Poor Filtration

    The role of your aquarium filter is not to physically get rid of algae, but rather to keep the nitrogen cycle running.

    This process is known as biological filtration and it involves some very helpful types of bacteria that form colonies in the media of aquarium filters. The more media you have, and the finer its texture at a microscopic level, the more beneficial bacteria you can maintain.

    You should always buy the best quality filter that you can afford. A small internal power filter is perfectly adequate for small low-tech, fish-only aquariums, but for heavily planted tanks, a good quality canister filter is going to be a better bet.

    2. Poor water circulation

    ‘Dead spots’ can develop if your filter is not producing enough water flow to keep all of the water in your aquarium moving. Fish waste and other organic waste tend to accumulate in these areas, creating perfect conditions for algae to grow.

    You can install a small powerhead, or even an airstone to create a gentle water flow throughout your aquarium. For tank tanks or for setups like African cichlid tanks that prefer more flow, an aquarium wave maker could make more sense.

    3. Lighting

    Algae are photosynthetic organisms, which means they need light in order to grow, just like plants. The more light you have, the faster algae will grow, especially if you don’t have healthy aquatic plants to compete with them.

    Aquariums without live plants should not have strong lighting, and your fish tank should never be exposed to direct sunlight.

    4. Carbon Dioxide (CO2) Levels

    Providing increased CO2 levels is very important for maximizing plant growth and health. Just pumping CO2 into the tank is not really enough, however. It’s very important that the amount of this gas available to the plants stays stable and consistent at a safe level. You can encourage algae growth by having too much or too little CO2 levels.

    5. Unhealthy plants

    Aquarium plants and algae are in competition in our aquariums. A heavily planted aquarium full of healthy, growing plants will naturally suppress the growth of algae.

    This happens because plants and algae both use light, CO2, and nutrients to grow. If you’re providing these to your plants, but they aren’t growing, you can bet the algae will be happy to take advantage!

    6. Aquarium water parameters

    Since we know that unhealthy plants are like an invitation for algae, it’s important to make sure your aquarium water parameters are suitable for the plant species you are growing. This could apply to pH or water hardness for example.

    Healthy growing plants need an adequate supply of nutrients to maintain good growth. Keep a regular dosing schedule and make sure to use aquarium fertilizers that provide all of the essential micro and macronutrients that your plants need.

    7. Water Source

    At the same time, high phosphates or silicates in your source water can also throw your system out of wack to the point where nuisance algae blooms are a problem. A good solution is to invest in an RO system. For those who need absolute pristine water for keeping fish like Discus, a RODI unit would be a solid investment. You should consider getting a water quality report from your city to determine the levels of your water and consider a TDS meter.

    8. Temperature

    Aquarium algae tend to grow faster in aquariums that have higher water temperatures. This could be because dead plant tissues and other waste break down faster in warm water, providing increased ammonia levels.

    This makes fish like Betta fish more difficult to keep in community tanks because of their temperature requirements. In general, coldwater fish tanks will have less rampant algae if all other factors are equal.

    9. Aquarium Maintenance

    Falling behind on your regular aquarium maintenance is one of the biggest causes of algae population growth.

    Regular partial water changes are one of the best ways to limit algal growth. By changing the water, you are reducing the amount of nitrates, phosphates, and silicates in the water. You should also be sucking up physical waste particles from the substrate while performing a water change.

    10. Overfeeding fish

    Overfeeding is a very common, and often very serious problem for beginner fishkeepers. As uneaten fish food decays, it can release more ammonia than your beneficial bacteria can convert. This can cause rapid algal growth. Feed your fish only as much food as they can eat in a minute or two. Also, consider investing in higher quality food as budget food has been known to cause cloudy water.

    11. Decaying plants

    Decaying plant matter like dead leaves is just as bad as excess fish food and other organic waste. Trim your plants regularly and be sure to remove all of the trimmings from the tank.

    10 Different Types

    Now that you know more about what algae is, how it gets into your tank, and what causes it to grow, it’s time to learn about some of the most common algae types. Through my over 25 years of experience with both freshwater and saltwater aquariums as well as running local fish stores, I’ve seen it all. From dinos (which aren’t algae, but often called as such), to hair algae.

    My goal here is to talk about the most common and how to deal with them. There are so many different types of aquarium algae out there that getting an accurate identification of what’s growing in your tank can be very difficult. There are some types of algae that are often seen in freshwater aquariums, however, and the following ten types are very common and my Youtube should help as well to follow along below.

    Compare these types of algae with what you see in your tank, and take note of the causes and possible treatments for each type.

    1. Brown Diatom

    • Causes: high ammonia, low lighting, low CO2, high silicates
    • Chemical treatment: Tetra AlgeaControl, use a UV sterilizer, use RO water if your source tap water contains silicates
    • Brown diatom algae eaters: Otocinclus catfish, bristle nose pleco, nerite snails, Amano shrimp

    Brown diatom algae is a common and pretty harmless type of aquarium algae. This type of brown algae often grows in new aquariums and goes away in time without any treatment.

    Brown diatom algae thrive in water with high silicate levels, so if this type of brown algae becomes an ongoing issue, you might need to use reverse osmosis water.

    2. Green Beard

    Green Beard Algae
    • Causes: Photoperiod is too long, low CO2 levels, Low nitrates
    • Chemical treatment: Hydrogen peroxide treatment, liquid carbon like flourish excel
    • Green beard algae eaters: Rosy barbs, Mollies, Amano shrimp

    Green beard algae look similar to green fuzz algae but grow longer and denser. This form of green algae can become a problem when you have too much light, not enough CO2, or a nutrient imbalance in your planted aquarium.

    3. Black Beard (BBA)

    BBA on Plant
    • Causes: High water flow, fluctuating CO2 levels
    • Chemical treatment: Hydrogen peroxide treatment, Apt Fix, liquid carbon like flourish excel
    • Black beard algae eaters: Florida flagfish, Siamese algae eaters, Rosy barb

    Black beard algae (AKA black brush algae) is probably the most feared algae form in the aquarium hobby. It actually looks kind of cool, but this stuff is really tough and is not easy to get rid of.

    These algae grow attached to hardscape, substrate, equipment, and even the leaves of slow-growing plants like Anubias. Most algae eaters avoid BBA, but some fish like Siamese algae eaters and Florida flagfish can be helpful.

    4. Hair

    Hair Algae in Aquarium
    • Causes: Nutrient imbalances, unhealthy plant growth
    • Chemical treatment: Apt Fix, Tetra AlgeaControl
    • Hair algae eaters: Amano shrimp, ramshorn snails, otocinclus catfish

    Hair algae are short filamentous algae that can grow on live plants. If you find this type of green algae growing on live plants in a mature aquarium, it’s a good sign that the plants are not in good health or not being fertilized correctly.

    You can remove a lot of hair algae manually, but beware, it holds on tight!

    5. Green Spot (GSA)

    Green Spot Algae
    • Causes: phosphate deficiency
    • Chemical treatment: Hydrogen peroxide
    • Green spot algae eaters: Nerite snails, bristlenose pleco, otocinclus catfish

    Green spot algae are common and harmless algae that appear as small dark green spots on the aquarium glass or on slow-growing plant leaves. Green spot algae are pretty tough, and not many animals will eat them, but zebra nerite snails can be helpful.

    6. Blue-Green (BGA)

    Blue Green Algae
    • Causes: Low-nitrate levels
    • Chemical treatment: Antibiotics
    • Blue-green algae eaters: Ramshorn snail

    Blue-green algae are actually not algae at all. This slimy growth form is actually a form of bacteria known as cyanobacteria.

    Blue-green algae are pretty easy to remove, but they will grow back if you do not figure out the cause of their growth. Blue-green algae can be harmful, and unfortunately, most algae eaters will not eat them.

    7. Green Water

    • Causes: Too much light, nutrient imbalance, lack of maintenance
    • Chemical treatment: Use a UV filter
    • Green water algae eaters: None

    Green water (video reference) is caused by a bloom of microscopic algae known as phytoplankton in the water column. The easiest way to get rid of green aquarium water algae is to use a UV light filter or by blacking out the lights for a few days.

    Green aquarium water algae are not harmful to your fish, but if you let them get out of control, they can block out light to your aquatic plants.

    8. Green Fuzz

    • Causes: Lack of CO2, nutrient imbalance
    • Chemical treatment: Apt Fix
    • Green fuzz algae eaters: Rosy barbs, Mollies, Amano shrimp, cherry shrimp

    Green fuzz is also known as Oedogonium algae. It is a form of filamentous green algae that tends to grow on unhealthy plants. The best way to get rid of green fuzz algae is to provide your aquatic plants with adequate stable CO2 levels and balanced nutrients. The video above by Rachel O’Leary shows green fuzz algae growing in an aquarium for decor purposes.

    9. Green Dust (GDA)

    Green Dust Algae
    • Causes: Nutrient imbalance, too much light, lack of plants
    • Chemical treatment: APT Fix
    • Green dust algae eaters: Bristlenose pleco, otocinclus catfish, nerite snails

    Green dust algae is a form of fine algae that settles on the glass and other surfaces inside your aquarium. This green algae does not attach itself firmly and can simply be wiped off without much effort.

    Unfortunately, this will not solve a green dust algae problem but rather causes it to settle elsewhere.

    10. Staghorn

    Staghorn Algae
    • Causes: Ammonia spike, weak plant growth
    • Chemical treatment: APT Fix
    • Staghorn algae eaters: Siamese algae eaters

    Staghorn algae grow in tough, grayish clumps that look quite similar to black beard algae. Staghorn algae tend to grow on the edges of plant leaves, and they can be pretty tough to get rid of!

    Performing regular aquarium maintenance, dosing your aquarium plants, and trimming back old plant growth are all good ways of controlling pesky staghorn algae.

    Other Issues

    The ten common algae types in this list aren’t the only problems to watch out for. There are also some other non-algae-related growths that pop up in aquariums from time to time.

    Let’s take a quick look at what they are, what causes them, and how to treat them.

    Cloudy Water

    Cloudy Water in an Aquarium

    Cloudy water is something that many new aquarium owners will experience. This is not algae but rather beneficial bacteria colonizing your aquarium.

    They do not need any form of treatment and will clear up soon enough. If this occurs in a mature aquarium, however, it could be an indication of an increase in nutrients in the tank.

    Cloudy water can also be caused by adding dusty new substrate to your aquarium, or by stirring up sediments during a water change.

    White Fungus

    Biofilm In Aquariums

    If you’ve recently added new driftwood to your aquarium, there’s a good chance that a white moldy substance will begin to grow on its surface.

    This is absolutely nothing to worry about and will clear up on its own in a week or two. Many aquarium fish will happily feed on this growth, but you can always scrub it off if you want it gone sooner.

    Brown Water

    Tannins

    Brown water is another common complaint that goes hand in hand with new driftwood. Tannins leaching out of the driftwood stain the water, almost like a teabag. This can take weeks and several water changes to clear up, but it is harmless for your fish.

    Boiling new driftwood and changing the water several times before adding new driftwood to your aquarium can speed up the process.

    Treatment Options

    Prevention is always better than cure when it comes to algae, but there are some effective ways of treating this common problem. Let’s take a look at some of the best treatment options for algae in freshwater aquariums.

    Chemical Treatments

    There are some very effective chemical algae treatments available in the aquarium hobby. Some useful chemical treatments like bleach and hydrogen peroxide can even be found at your local drug store or supermarket.

    Here is a list of aquarium products that can be helpful for controlling Aquarium algae:

    • API Algaefix: Many algae types
    • Apt Fix: Black beard algae, filamentous algae like hair algae
    • Green Water Labs Algae Control: Most Algae types
    • Seachem Flourish Excel: Black Beard Algae

    As with any chemical product, it’s really important to follow doses carefully, and always use caution. This is especially important if you keep live animals in your aquarium.

    Biological Treatments (Natural Algae Eaters)

    Algae eaters are my favorite method of algae control, but they are not the final solution. Remember, prevention is better than cure, and algae eaters definitely fall into the ‘cure’ category.

    That being said, algae eaters can be incredibly effective at controlling algae growth, and they are fascinating and awesome creatures in their own right too! There are many amazing freshwater algae eaters in the hobby, but here are a few of the best types:

    Physical Removal

    Physical removal can be hard work, but it is a highly effective method of reducing the amount of algae and improving the look of your tank. An algae scraper, an old credit card, a sponge, and your fingers are all great for this task.

    Unfortunately, physical removal is not going to solve the root cause of your algae growth, so you can usually expect the algae to grow back pretty fast.

    Blackouts

    Blackouts are another simple (but more time-consuming) method for decreasing algae in aquariums. The concept is simple, starve the algae of light and it will die. This technique works because your plants can survive for a few days without light but the algae really suffer.

    Unfortunately, this technique will result in some leggy plant growth and it can take a few days for your plants to recover from the shock.

    Note a blackout is total darkness. This is often best achieved by blocking out the glass with cardboard and covering the top of the aquarium. A black should last around 4-5 days. Your fish will survive not eating. They will typically go dormant during this time period.

    Troubleshooting

    Now that you know more about ten types of algae and the most common causes for their growth, let’s look at a useful thought process to help you solve algae problems before they get out of hand!

    Remember, you need to identify the root cause of algae problems to make sure they don’t just keep coming back.

    Go through this list to figure out where the problem might lie:

    Light

    • Do you have good-quality aquarium lights with the correct spectrum for plant growth?
    • Are your lights running on a timer for 6 to 8 hours per day?
    • Is your tank exposed to any direct natural sunlight? Remember to avoid direct sunlight
    • If you use T5 lights when was the light time you changed your lights?

    Filtration

    • Do you have a good quality filter, with a large volume of quality filtration media?
    • Is your tank cycled?
    • Have you recently replaced your filter media or done anything that could have harmed the beneficial bacteria in your filter media?

    Carbon Dioxide

    • Do you have a CO2 injection system?
    • Is it calibrated to maintain CO2 levels at 20-30ppm for the full period that your aquarium lights are on?
    • Do you have good water circulation to spread the CO2 evenly in the water column?

    Fertilizing

    • Are you fertilizing your plants regularly? Remember that some aquatic plants need water column fertilizers and some need a source of nutrients at their roots.
    • Are you using fertilizers that provide the complete spectrum of macro and micronutrients that plants need?

    Water temperature & Parameters

    • Is your water too warm?
    • Are your water parameters in the correct range for the types of plants you are growing?

    Maintenance

    • Are you performing regular water changes and using your water test kit to monitor ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels?
    • Are you overfeeding your fish?
    • Do you have too many fish?
    • Are you removing all dead or dying plant parts, and using your gravel vacuum to keep the substrate clean?

    Algae Eaters

    • Do you have any algae eaters in your tank?
    • Do they eat the kind of algae you are having problems with?

    FAQS

    What type is growing in my fish tank?

    There is a huge variety of algae species that grow in fish tanks. There is a good chance that the algae growing in your aquarium could be one of the ten types covered in this article, so run through the list and see if you can find a match.

    Does this mean my tank is cycled?

    Algae can occur in both cycled and uncycled aquariums. The best way to determine when your tank is cycled is to measure the ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels with your aquarium water test kit. You know your tank is cycled when your water reads zero parts ammonia and nitrite, but tests positive for nitrate.

    What do they look like in a freshwater tank?

    Algae can take all sorts of forms in fish tanks. It can be a variety of colors, including green, black, and brown algae.

    It can grow as green slime, fine hair-like strands, spots, or even be quite tough and fibrous like staghorn algae. Some algae grow in the water column and can even make your water turn green.

    How do you get rid of it in a fish tank?

    The best way to get rid of algae is to figure out why it is growing in the first place, and then make the necessary adjustments.

    As a quick fix, you can treat algae with algae removing chemicals, introduce algae eaters, or simply get rid of as much as you can by hand.

    Is it harmful to a fish tank?

    Most types of algae are not harmful in aquariums and fish tanks. Algae are a natural part of freshwater ecosystems, but to be fair, they don’t look very attractive in our aquariums.

    Blue-green algae is one type of algae that can be toxic, and algae can block out light to aquarium plants if left to grow out of control, so in some cases, they can be harmful.

    Is the green type harmful to fish?

    Green algae is usually not harmful to fish. In fact, many fish species eat algae. It could be dangerous to your fish if it is left to fill up your tank and block up your filter, however.

    Is green the variety good for a fish tank?

    Green algae is not bad for your fish tank, it just doesn’t look too great. If it is not growing out of control and affecting your plants, it could be seen as a healthy part of your aquarium.

    What is the fastest way to get rid of it in a fish tank?

    A fast way to get rid of algae is a combination of manually removing as much as you can, and using a chemical treatment to kill off the rest. After that, you should perform a water change and consider adding some algae eating snails, shrimp, or fish species.

    Final Thoughts

    Algae are a really common headache in both freshwater and marine aquariums. Don’t lose hope if you’re struggling with algae, this is a fight you can definitely win with the right knowledge, equipment, and action plan!

    Have you ever had an algae problem in your aquarium? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Rummy Nose Tetra – Everything you wanted to know

    Rummy Nose Tetra – Everything you wanted to know

    The Rummy nose tetra is a beautiful freshwater fish that is easy to keep, breed, and care for. The common name for Rummy nose tetra in the aquarium world is brilliant rummy nose tetra, red nose tetra, and Firehead tetra. It has bright red heads with horizontal stripes of black and white tail, resembling the fire flames. In this article, we are going to cover everything about Rummy nose tetra care.

    So, let’s begin!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameHemigrammus bleheri (also referred to as H. rhodostomus)
    Common NamesFirehead Tetra, Red Nose Tetra, and Brilliant Rummy Nose Tetra
    FamilyCharacidae
    OriginSouth America
    DietOmnivore
    Care RequirementsEasy
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan5 โ€“ 6 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelTop and middle level
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Water Temperature Range75ยฐ – 85ยฐ F
    Water Hardness2 โ€“ 6 dKH
    pH Range6.2 – 7.0 (slightly acidic)
    Filtration/Water FlowSlow to Moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedChallenging in captivity
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    What Are Rummy Nose Tetras?

    Rummy nose tetras are popular freshwater fish species, originating from South America. They are particularly found in Rio Negro in Brazil and Rio Vaupes in Columbia. These freshwater aquatic species go by many names, including Fire head tetra, Red nose tetra, and Brilliant rummy nose. They are peaceful fish that are active and playful with their computable tank mates. Hence, make the best aquarium species in the community tank.

    Origin and Habitat

    In the wild, rummy nose tetras live in the tropical and subtropical regions of South America, especially in the rainforest rivers and streams, such as Rio Negro and Rio Meta river basins or Petitella Georgia from the Upper Amazon basin in Peru, Rio Purus, Rio Negro, and Rio Madeira river basins.

    However, nowadays, most rummy nose tetras are captive-bred. The captive-bred species are farmed in South East Asia and Europe and sourced throughout the globe successfully.

    Appearance

    The startling difference between other freshwater fish and Rummy nose tetras is their red head that leaves your visitors awestruck.

    Rummy Nose Tetra

    The body of rummy nose tetras is torpedo-shaped with sheer silver color accentuated with a grayish-green hue. The caudal fin in rummy nose tetra is patterned with black and white horizontal stripes with colorless lobe tips. There is a very thin, indistinguishable black line that runs forward base to base- from the caudal fin towards the dorsal fin.

    The deep fiery color in the rummy nose tetra is limited to the head region only, and the vibrancy of colors on your rummy nose tetras speaks volumes of the tank’s water quality, diet, and overall health of the fish.

    Types

    Rummy nose tetras are divided into three distinct very similar tetra species.

    The True Species: Hemigrammus rhodostomus

    The Hemigrammus Rhodostomus are the true rummy nose tetras that are often sold as the common rummy nose tetra or the “brilliant nose tetra”. However, you can easily distinguish the following by these factors:

    • The amount of red coloration on the head is a little lighter than H. Bleheri.
    • The dark blotch is absent at the bottom.
    • The line that extends laterally from the central caudal fin is narrower in the true rummy nose tetra.

    The Brilliant  or The Common: Hemigrammus bleheri

    The most popular species of the rummy nose tetra are H. bleheri. Commercial breeders also produce a golden variant of the rummy nose tetra by selectively breeding, which is available for sale from time to time.

    • The red coloration on the fish’s head extends into the fish’s body, beyond the gill covers.
    • The presence of a dark blotch at the top of the caudal peduncle.
    • The line that extends laterally from the central fin into the fish’s body is almost invisible.

    The false Kind Petitella georgiae

    The false rummy nose tetras can be distinguished by the other two types on the basis of:

    • Bright redhead
    • The black horizontal line extends to the middle rays of the caudal peduncle.
    • Presence of diagonal black bars in each caudal-fin lobe, divided by white bands

    Therefore, this species of rummy nose tetra is often labeled as the black-finned rummy nose.

    Average Size and Lifespan

    Rummy nose tetras are small freshwater fish. They grow no longer than two inches in length with a life expectancy of around six years with proper maintenance and care.

    Care Guide

    Rummy noses are popular schooling fish that are considered easy for beginners. However, if you don’t take care of them or maintain their water quality, things can get worse. Therefore, be vigilant in raising a rummy nose, because they take poor water conditions and other parameters very seriously.

    Also, rummy noses are much appreciated by the aquarium keepers as they are quite active and very reasonable in many pet stores.

    The Rummy Nose Tetra is a hardy fish when well taken care of that will live for almost a decade ranging from five to eight years. These tiny fish grow up to anywhere from one and a half inches to two and a half inches.

    Aquarium Setup

    In their natural habitat, the rummy nose tetra occupies the middle and top water column with a preference for slow-moving waters. However, they have usually seen feeding and swimming in the middle and bottom as well.

    Rummy nose tetras stay happy in a spacious tank where they could swim freely with lots of hiding places and plants.

    Tank Size

    While they can qualify for a nano tank given their size, they are not the best nano fish. The minimum tank size for rummy noses should be no less than 20 gallons. It is observed that these fish occupies the middle and top levels of the tank, but oftentimes they can be seen swimming and feeding in the middle and bottom levels. In captivity, experts suggest keeping them in schools of six or more. These fish species are particularly small, which means around five of these fish easily fit in ten gallons, meaning you can fit 25 rummy noses in a 30-gallon tank.

    Water Parameters

    Rummy nose tetras admire warm water temperature so much. So, they should always be kept in water temperatures around 75 to 85 degrees Fahrenheit – with 78 being the most ideal temperature Also, they prefer slightly acidic to neutral water with recommended pH levels of 6.2 to 7. Any changes in the water chemistry of the tetra tank and temperature would adversely affect these tetras. Therefore, be sure to maintain optimal conditions to raise a happy and healthy tetra.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Rummy noses take their tank condition very seriously. The slightest inconvenience, for example, the traces of ammonia, nitrite, nitrates, and other toxins can shorten their lifespan and activity levels. Therefore, to provide a healthy ecosystem, it is suggested to use a robust filter such as HOB or canister filters to keep your fish tank free of toxins.

    For larger aquariums of around 40 gallons or more, I suggest using airstones to increase aeration and water oxygenation, or you can install multiple filters 

    Lighting

    Like most fish, rummy nose tetras do not enjoy bright lights. Therefore, if you have a well-planted tank, I suggest using dim light or adjustable L.E.D lights to subtly light your aquarium for plant material.

    To darken the tank more, you can get tall floating plants and driftwood and rocks, providing cozy, shady areas for your fish.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    The number one rule to keep your tetras happy as a daisy is to mimic their natural habitat and see them thriving more than ever. 

    Since these fish species are top- to middle-dwelling, it is recommended to get plants that reach such water columns to provide a sense of protection. Also, rummy tetras loathe bright lights. So, to give them ample shade, add floating plants and rooted plants for them to hide and burrow for shade if needed. You can add as much plant material as you want because rummy tetras are not destructive toward aquatic plants. 

    For tank decorations, a piece of driftwood and a pile of rocks provide much space to hide and rest. But be sure to not overwhelm the tank with plants and other decorations because rummy noses enjoy a lot of swimming room. Low light plants are recommended for these types of tetras.

    Substrate

    Many tetra keepers use a dark substrate to make their radiant rummy noses and out from the crowd. But you can use any high-quality fine sandy substrate or pebble substrate at the bottom of your tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    No matter how many high-quality filters you use, rummy noses are very sensitive to toxins and poor water conditions. Therefore, it is recommended to do weekly water changes without stressing them much. Also, it is advised to change your filter media every 3 weeks. If you’re planning to breed rummy nose tetra, make sure to test the water quality daily as mild exposure to minerals such as Calcium and other toxins can cause sterility in these tetras.

    Community Tank Mates

    The good news is rummy noses are a schooling and peaceful fish. Thus, they will mix with other schooling fish, just make sure you have at least 6 to form a group.

    The most suitable tank mates in a rummy nose tetra tank are:

    1. Danios of all types
    2. Corydoras Catfish
    3. Barbs
    4. Harlequin Rasboras
    5. Lemon Tetras
    6. Black widow tetras
    7. Cardinal tetras
    8. Peppered catfish
    9. Siamese fighting fish

    And all other peaceful, small fish. Mostly dwarf shrimps go well with rummy nose tetras. However, the adult fish might end up eating dwarf shrimp and their fry. Therefore, always opt for tank mates equal to the size of the rummy nose tetra.

    Incompatible Tank Mates

    The incompatible tank mates are most of the cichlids and other large or aggressive fish that may bully or harm your rummy noses.

    Breeding

    Breeding rummy nose tetras is a challenging task, especially in captivity because a minor increase in the calcium levels may cause sterility in these fish.

    To breed rummy noses successfully, you need to provide them with soft water with a pH of around 6.5. Also, the levels of Calcium should be close to none in the breeding tank and the temperature range should be around 84 degrees Fahrenheit with low lighting.

    Rummy noses are egg layers and they lay their eggs on the fine-leaved plants such as java moss. These fish lay only a few eggs at one time, that too, at night time. I suggest removing the parents into another tank because they may eat eggs. 

    After three to four days, the eggs hatch, which are vulnerable to fungus. You can use an anti-fungal medication to avoid this problem. If the medication is not available, you can use natural items like Indian Almond Leaves as their tannic acid is helpful in preventing fungal infections. Check out this video by Bo The Tetra Breeder below for a timelapse of the fry’s development.

    How do you raise the Fry?

    The baby rummy noses are slow growers among all the popular freshwater fish. Many fish experts make them eat infusoria for at least three weeks before feeding them anything else. The fish fry is very vulnerable to fatal diseases, thus, the quality of tank water should be maintained properly.

    It takes around six months for the rummy nose’s baby to munch on adult fish food such as Daphnia.

    Food and Diet

    Since these fish are omnivorous. They thrive well on a varied diet rich in protein. You can easily feed them premium-quality flake food, pellets, frozen foods, freeze-dried foods, bloodworms, blackworms, and much more.

    In the wild, they munch on plant debris and insect larvae. But in captivity, they have a variety of food to feed on such as brine shrimp, fish eggs, green vegetables including, cabbage, lettuce, cucumber, etc, and commercial food as well.

    However, don’t forget to add flake food as the base because good flake food will provide nutrients and are easy to feed for these small fish.

    How Often Should You Feed Rummy nose?

    You can feed these species twice daily. But make sure they finish the food within 2 minutes to prevent food decay and a murky tank.

    Rummy noses are sensitive to nutritional deficiencies. Therefore, feeding them with high-quality flake food with lots of protein content is crucial along with occasional treats given on a weekly basis.

    Common Health Problems and Diseases

    The best part about rummy noses is they hardly get sick and catch diseases if you provide them with excellent water conditions.

    However, there are some common health problems and diseases observed in the rummy noses such as:

    Dropsy

    In this condition, the fluid builds up inside the body of a fish. This is due to bacterial infections, liver dysfunction, or parasitic infections. Either way, proper diagnosis is recommended.

    Ich or White spot Disease

    The Ich disease is a common health problem in most tropical fish. The signs of these diseases are the presence of small white spots on the body and gills, scraping of the body against sharp, hard objects in the aquarium, loss of appetite, and abnormal hiding or lethargic behavior.

    Differences Between Male and Female

    The visual differences between the male and female rummy nose species are close to none. However, when the female is full of eggs, the body looks fuller and much more rounder than the male.

    Where to get the best quality from?

    Since you’ve researched everything about the rummy nose tetras, it’s time to get your hands on this great fish.

    You can easily purchase these beautiful fish from online fish stores or in-store from the local breeders. Either way, the cost of rummy nose tetra is very as affordable as low $4 for a single fish, and $25 for a group of six to keep in your home aquarium.

    Where to Buy

    These tetra fish are easy to find at fish stores. While easy to find, not every fish store is reputable. If you want to go with an online option, I would highly recommend Flip Aquatics. Rob and his team value the care they put into their aquatic animals. It is in my mind, the best place to purchase nano fish and shrimp from. You can use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO at check out for a discount!

    Rummy Nose Tetra
    Rummy Nose Tetra

    An easy to care for Tetra fish that loves to school. Very peaceful fish that are great for beginners

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    FAQs

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Rummy nose tetra is a shoaling and schooling fish that enjoys the company of other suitable tank mates in a community tank. The minimum number of fish to be kept in a rummy nose tetra tank should be no less than six.

    Are They Aggressive?

    No. Rummy noses are peaceful fish, excellent for community aquariums. They never bother their tank mates but can easily be intimidated by other large fish that are territorial and aggressive. Therefore, make sure to avoid large, aggressive fish in your rummy nose tetra tank.

    Can Neon Tetras Live With A Rummy Nose?

    Yes, neon tetras make awesome tank mates for rummy noses. They are perfectly capable and are considering schooling fish as they will swim together. You shouldn’t have any aggression issues with either fish.

    What Fish Can Live With Them?

    All the small and peaceful fish can live happily with the rummy nose including:

    Danios of all types
    Corydoras Catfish
    Barbs
    Harlequin Rasboras
    Lemon Tetras
    Black widow tetras
    cardinal tetras
    Peppered catfish
    Siamese fighting fish

    Are They Fin Nippers?

    No, rummy noses tetras, unlike some more aggressive tetra species areย notย fin nippers. They are fine with long-fin fish like Betta Fish and will coexist with large peaceful fish like Discus Fish.

    Are They Hard To Keep?

    No, rummy nose tetras are beginner-friendly fish that are easy to keep, provided that the water parameters and tank requirements should be met. However, if you’re planning to breed them in captivity, it is quite a challenging task. Rummy nose tetra care regarding their fry can be challenging after breeding.

    Final Thoughts

    The rummy nose tetra is a beautiful addition to your community aquarium. The most crucial part of raising a happy and healthy rummy nose tetra is to provide them with ample free swimming space and a well-balanced, nutritious diet. Besides, they are a very hardy fish with a lifespan of around six years, if taken good care of. 

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Betta Fish Laying On Bottom Of Tank -12 Reasons Why (And How To Fix It!)

    Betta Fish Laying On Bottom Of Tank -12 Reasons Why (And How To Fix It!)

    Betta Fish laying on bottom of tanks can be one of the scariest things a new betta keeper can experience. After all, it’s usually a telltale sign something is wrong with your fish. That’s not always the case with Betta fish though. There could be multiple reasons why (some good and some bad). Today’s articles talked about the reasons and how to fix the issue if it’s for a bad reason.

    Let’s dive in!

    Introduction To Betta Keeping

    No matter what kind of fish you have, you never want to see it laying on its side at the bottom of the tank. This behavior is usually a telltale sign that something is wrong in the aquarium whether it be illness and disease, poor water quality, or stressful tank mates. Prolonged laying on the substrate can eventually cause secondary infections to form due to new scrapes and scratches as well as torn fins; betta fish especially are prone to developing fin rot.

    Unfortunately, seeing a betta laying on the bottom of a tank is a common sight in commercial pet stores. This can fool beginner hobbyists into thinking that it’s the natural behavior of their fish when they bring it home. This, in addition to the general misinformation surrounding betta fish, leads to many unnecessary fish deaths.

    This is not normal betta fish behavior and your betta fish should never be laying on the bottom of the aquarium. But how can you make sure to keep your betta fish happy and healthy?

    Aquarium Size

    It’s a common misconception that betta fish don’t need a lot of space. While this is mostly true, they definitely flourish when given the space to thrive.

    Betta fish are commonly kept in 1-gallon betta tanks that haven’t undergone the nitrogen cycle. Sadly, beginner hobbyists are often left wondering what happened to their fish. In general, betta fish need at least a 5 gallon, fully-cycled, and heated aquarium.

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    From there, hobbyists may add live aquarium plants and appropriate tank mates while keeping up water quality and keeping the betta enriched. Of course, hobbyists have been successful in keeping these beautiful fish in smaller setups, but this is only recommended for more experienced betta keepers.

    Water Parameters

    In addition to an appropriately sized tank, betta fish also need a fully-cycled and heated aquarium. Many times, these fish are thrown into an uncycled tank where they are left to succumb to ammonia poisoning or another water quality problem. With some patience, keeping water parameters right for betta fish is easy.

    Betta fish need 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and minimal nitrate at all times. As we’ll see, excess levels of these parameters can quickly cause the betta’s health to deteriorate, which can lead to death in some cases.

    Betta fish originate from very acidic conditions in Southeast Asia with pH levels under 7.0. Many of the fish available at local pet stores today have been bred in the aquarium industry and have adapted to a relatively neutral pH between 6.0-8.0, though stability is key.

    These fish are also a tropical species and need an aquarium heater to keep the water temperature between 78-80ยฐ F. Too many hobbyists try keeping these hardy fish at ambient room temperature and find themselves with a stressed-out betta due to fluctuating water temperatures.

    Aquarium Mates

    Yes, it’s possible to keep other fish with your betta fish. However, this will largely depend on the personality of the individual fish.

    Some betta fish might not tolerate other fish or invertebrates in their aquarium at all. Others may accept some but not others. And then there are those few lucky hobbyists that have a betta fish that accepts any and all new tank additions, though betta fish may also change their mind at any given moment.

    Still, there are several tried and true species that have made perfect betta fish tank mates. These include:

    If keeping female betta fish, it may also be possible to start a betta fish sorority tank, though this setup is usually considered more advanced.

    Why Are They Laying On Bottom Of Aquarium (12 Reasons Why)

    There is only one instance when it is normal for your betta fish to be laying on the ground and that is when it is sleeping. Otherwise, there is probably a problem with tank or water quality or you’re dealing with an illness. Check out the video below from our YouTube channel. We will go in more detail in the blog post below.

    Here’s how to identify the problem and what to do to get your betta fish feeling better.

    1. Sleeping Fish

    Yes! A betta sleeps. Though it’s not in the same way other animals do.

    Instead, fish will have a brief sleep cycle where they enter the REM stage throughout the night1. This can make for some interesting behavior in an animal that doesn’t have the ability to lay down. Many new hobbyists might worry that their betta is sick due to abnormal behavior once the lights go out, but usually, it’s just your betta trying to get some shut-eye.

    Here’s how to tell that your fish is sleeping.

    Usually, fish have a preferred spot to rest once the lights turn off. In a planted aquarium, this might mean a favorite leaf or spot behind a decoration (like a betta hammock or betta log). They will then lightly float near the object, sometimes in weird orientations. It might even appear like they stop swimming altogether and almost slip off the item.

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    Other bettas might enjoy laying on the substrate. This is simply a preference, but it can definitely be concerning when you see your fish at the bottom of the tank starting to fall sideways.

    If this happens every night, it’s normal. Fish are weird sleepers. However, if this starts happening during the day or you notice abrasions or ripped fins starting to form, then this can become a more serious issue.

    2. Older Fish

    Just like you and me, betta fish get weaker as they age.

    They might not be able to swim in a straight line from the top of the aquarium to the bottom of the tank, and might find themselves resting on a leaf or aquarium equipment. If your betta fish is especially exhausted, it may even take a quick break at the bottom of the tank.

    Unfortunately, all bettas age. Continue to monitor your fish for cuts and scrapes and give your fish the best days possible!

    3. Ammonia Poisoning

    If your betta fish isn’t sleeping and isn’t old, then there is more than likely something wrong with the tank or with water conditions. One of the leading causes of betta fish laying on the bottom of the tank is ammonia poisoning.

    Ammonia is a natural compound in the aquarium; fish and invertebrates constantly create waste that is then processed by beneficial bacteria populations. The highest that ammonia levels should ever go is when the tank is cycling. It should remain close to 0.0 ppm at all other times.

    But what happens if you add too many fish or you accidentally feed too much at one time? You may experience a mini-cycle where ammonia levels increase, causing an imbalance in bacteria populations.

    Unfortunately, ammonia is a deadly chemical. Any significant amount of ammonia in the aquarium will cause injury to the external and internal organs of fish and invertebrates. Eventually, their gills are burned and they are unable to breathe.

    This side effect can lead your fish to gasp for air at the bottom of the tank. At this stage, it’s pretty late for your fish. However, water changes, water conditioners, and ammonia-reducing filter media may help bring down the ammonia levels just in time.

    4. Nitrate Poisoning

    If you experience a mini-cycle, then it’s likely you’ll get a large influx of nitrates as well.

    When ammonia enters the aquarium water, it is converted from ammonia, into nitrite, and finally into nitrate. Unlike the others, nitrates can only be quickly removed from the aquarium with a water change. This is why it’s recommended to do a near-100% water change after a betta tank has finished cycling.

    Luckily, nitrate poisoning only occurs when there are very high levels of nitrate in the aquarium water. By the time nitrates accumulate enough in the betta fish tank to cause nitrate poisoning, it’s likely that your betta fish will have died from a prior cause. However, nitrate poisoning is a real possibility after cycling the aquarium.

    Nitrate poisoning will quickly lead to poor health in your betta. One of the more severe symptoms is if the betta fish lays on the bottom of the tank.

    To make sure your betta fish never experiences nitrate poisoning, regularly perform water changes and test water parameters.

    5. Swim Bladder Disorder

    The swim bladder is responsible for regulating a fish’s buoyancy in the water column. Symptoms of a swim bladder disorder include difficulty maintaining an upright position, bloatedness, curved back, and sinking or floating to the top of the water.

    Swim bladder problems aren’t entirely understood, though they’re believed to be a secondary symptom of a more major problem (such as vertical death hang), like water quality or another illness. One of the ways betta might also be affected is by taking in too much oxygen while they eat food at the surface of the water.

    The main treatments for swim bladder disorder are increasing water quality through water changes, changing diets, and possible medication.

    6. Small Aquarium

    Another reason you might find your betta fish laying on the bottom of the tank is due to a small aquarium. Betta fish are notorious for being kept in poor conditions due to being a beginner’s fish. Not only does an overly small aquarium stress out betta fish, but less water volume can lead to fluctuating water parameters.

    Betta fish require a 5-gallon, fully-cycled aquarium; some hobbyists have success keeping these fish in smaller setups, but 5 gallons is usually the bare minimum recommended. This gives the fish enough space to freely swim while providing an interactive environment to keep your fish from getting bored.

    A bigger aquarium also means that water parameters aren’t affected as quickly or as much should a problem arise in the system, which leads to a more healthy betta overall.

    However, a small aquarium can lead to poor water quality and a bored betta left laying on the bottom of its tank.

    7. Temperature

    One of those affected water parameters could be water temperature.

    Betta fish are very hardy fish in all regards but they’re a tropical fish that needs a constant water temperature between 78-80ยฐ F. Unfortunately, these fish are often kept in unheated aquariums with fluctuating temperatures due to misinformation surrounding correct betta care.

    Betta fish always need an aquarium heater for temperature stability as incorrect or fluctuating water temperatures can cause the fish to go into shock. The inability of your betta fish to physiologically adjust to its environment can quickly lead to a lethargic and dying betta.

    8. Wrong pH

    Possibly even worse than a wrong water temperature is a wrong pH.

    In the wild, betta fish live in slightly acidic water conditions due to tannins that enter the water column when organics start to break down. Since they’ve been bred in the freshwater aquarium for a long time, most betta fish are able to adapt to a more neutral pH, near 7.0. Most aquarium keepers keep their betta tank pH between 6.0-8.0.

    The problem is that pH is measured on a logarithmic scale that makes differences in numbers an exponential change; what might seem like a slight change in pH is actually much greater than it might read.

    That being said, it’s normal for aquariums to experience changes in pH throughout the day, especially in a well-planted tank where there are varying levels of photosynthesis and respiration. However, if pH changes more than 0.5 a day, this can become stressful and even deadly for the betta fish.

    9. Filtration Issues

    In addition to a heater, betta fish also usually require a filter that is properly sized for a betta tank. Finding a properly fitting betta fish filter can be difficult. It needs to be rated for at least 5 gallons but can’t be so strong that it pushes your fish across the tank.

    This is a common problem for betta keepers: a good quality filter that has too much water flow. As a result, betta fish can be pushed around and injured and left struggling to recover at the bottom of the tank.

    Filters that don’t provide enough surface area for adequate beneficial bacteria populations to grow can also lead to poor water quality which can greatly affect bettas.

    The solution to both these problems is using an aquarium filter that can keep up with the bioload of the system by modifying or baffling the water flow. Some hobbyists even turn to a sponge filter instead of a hang on the back system so that flow isn’t as overwhelming.

    10. Poor Diet

    In the wild, betta fish have a wide assortment of plants, algae, insects, and detritus to choose from to eat. While this can surely be replicated in the aquarium setting, a high-quality fish flake or pellet can usually meet the nutritional needs that bettas need to thrive.

    However, a low-quality food, or one that is meant for other species, may not fulfill all the vitamins and nutrients your fish requires to perform regular tasks, such as swimming. Irregular feedings and lack of feeding can also cause fish to become weak and malnourished.

    Many low-quality betta fish foods have fillers in them that add no nutritional value. This can lead to indigestion problems, such as constipation.

    11. Lack of Interaction

    Betta Fish Interacting with Reflection

    As mentioned before, bettas can become bored in their environments, especially in a very small tank where there isn’t much to do.

    Though betta fish are solitary fish, they require enrichment. A bored betta may sink to the bottom of the tank, waiting for something new to enter its home.

    Even though fish aren’t the most intelligent animals, they still appreciate being visited by their owners every day. They will develop a routine and schedule around when hobbyists feed the tank or perform tank maintenance; just watch how your betta fish reacts the next time you go near its tank!

    Betta fish do not need to be constantly entertained and small additions, like invertebrate tank mates, live feedings, or the addition of live plants, can give your betta fish just enough change in their environment so they don’t become bored.

    12. Poor Tank Mates

    At the same time, you don’t want to add tank mates that will cause your fish to become stressed out from being overactive. Larger, aggressive fish may even chase your betta and exhaust it, leading them to get injured and lay on the substrate.

    There are plenty of betta fish tank mate options that have proven to be successful, but many pairings are not; success will also greatly depend on the personality and behavior of the individual betta fish as not all may be as welcoming as other fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish are very hardy fish, but unfortunately, a sick betta fish can succumb to a variety of water parameter problems and illnesses relatively fast. If you find your betta fish laying at the bottom of the tank then check water parameters immediately and check for signs of disease.

    If there are no signs of a problem with either, then your fish might just be sleeping or getting older!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • 12 Of The Easiest Fish To Take Care Of

    12 Of The Easiest Fish To Take Care Of

    Are you just starting out in the fascinating world of fishkeeping? You’re probably looking for some great beginner fish that are easy to care for. With all the different species available in the hobby, choosing the best fish for your tank can be tough!

    In this article, I’ll teach you about 12 types of fish that are perfect for your first fish tank, and a few that should be left for more experienced aquarists.

    So let’s get started!

    12 Simple Species To Take Care Of

    Now that you know more about the benefits of keeping low-maintenance fish, it’s time to dive straight in and meet 12 awesome fish species you can keep!

    Check out this video below from our YouTube channel. We go over more detail in the blog post below.

    Each species profile includes a list of important facts, so take note of the following:

    • Scientific name
    • Temperament
    • Origin
    • Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • pH
    • Temperature
    • Difficulty to breed

    1. Betta

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, pellets, flakes, brine shrimp & blood worms
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The good old betta fish is a great species to start our list with. Betta fish are also called Siamese fighting fish because if you keep more than one male in the same tank, you can expect a war!

    These colorful fish make great beginners fish because they don’t need a large fish tank and they’re really fun to keep. Betta fish can be kept with other community fish, but many beginners prefer to keep one of these beautiful tropical fish in its own tank.

    2. White Cloud Minnows

    White Cloud Mountain Minnow
    White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

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    • Scientific name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: China
    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, pellets, flakes
    • pH: 6-8.5
    • Temperature: 58-72ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The peaceful white cloud minnow is not actually a tropical fish. This means they don’t necessarily need a heater unless your home is really, really cold. These cold-water fish have great colors and they’re very peaceful, making them awesome fish species for beginners!

    White cloud minnows don’t need a big tank, and they get along great with other fish. Just remember that these fish like it a little cooler than many other fish.

    3. Danios

    Leopard Danio in Planted Tank
    • Scientific name: Brachydanio rerio etc.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Asia
    • Size: 1.5-5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15-30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed pellets, granules, flakes, and live/frozen foods
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 65-77ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    There are loads of beautiful danio species in the aquarium trade, and many of them are perfect beginner fish! Zebra danios are a great example, and they’re usually very easy to find.

    These active little fish also come in spotted (leopard) and long-finned forms. Zebra danios are really peaceful and super hardy fish, but give them a nice big tank because they do prefer plenty of room to swim.

    4. Endler’s Livebearer

    Endler's Livebearers
    Endler's Livebearers

    A very active and colorful livebearer. Smaller in size than guppies

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    • Scientific name: Poecilia wingei
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, pellets, flakes
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    The Endler’s livebearer is similar to a regular guppy, but they stay even smaller. These fish are super easy to care for, and they have amazing colors too!

    These very small fish are called livebearers because the females give birth to live baby fish instead of laying eggs. They are one of the easiest fish to breed, but if you prefer not to have loads of tiny fish in your tank, go ahead and pick up just males, or just females. If you want to go larger, you can try platys or molly fish.

    5. Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loach
    Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loaches are hardy bottom-dwelling fish. Nocturnal in nature. Gets along with many fish and tolerate of coldwater environments

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    • Scientific name: Pangio semicincta
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 3.5-4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: feed sinking tablets and frozen foods
    • pH: 3.5-7
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    Kuhli loaches are super hardy and super easy to care for. They prefer to come out after dark, and they’re pretty shy, so I wouldn’t recommend these guys if you’re only looking for only one species.

    For a community tank, however, kuhli loaches are great because they are always willing to pick up any scraps of uneaten food and help keep your aquarium clean.

    6. Bristle Nose Pleco

    Bristlenose Pleco
    Bristlenose Pleco

    The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

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    • Scientific name: Ancistrus spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed sinking tablets, algae wafers, and plant material
    • pH: 6.5-7.4
    • Temperature: 70-78ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The bristle nose pleco is a really cool-looking bottom-dweller fish that is very easy to keep. These small fish are also known as the bushy nose pleco because males develop strange bushy growths on their faces.

    Bristle nose plecos are suckerfish, and they love eating algae off driftwood and the glass walls of the aquarium. There are both the regular and albino varieties available.

    7. Harlequin Rasbora

    Harlequin Rasbora
    Harlequin Rasbora

    A peaceful schooling fish. An ideal community fish. A great beginner fish

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    • Scientific name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 1.25-1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, flakes, and frozen/live foods
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The harlequin rasbora is a really good beginner fish. These reddish schooling fish have great triangular markings on their sides, just like the shape of a pork chop!

    Harlequin rasboras are very easy fish to keep, and they love to have live plants in their tanks. They get along really well with other fish species too, but they should not be kept with more aggressive fish.

    8. Albino Corydoras Catfish

    Albino Cory Catfish
    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 2-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15-30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed pellets, tablets, and live/frozen foods
    • pH: 7-8
    • Temperature: 74-80ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    Cory catfish are some of the best beginner fish in the hobby, and albinos are especially cool. These brightly colored little catfish are always easy to find, and they are very hardy. These neat little bottom feeders get along with all other peaceful fish, and they love picking up scraps at the bottom of the tank.

    Like siamese fighting fish, cory fish breathe atmospheric air, so don’t be surprised to see them shoot up to the surface to take a breath every now and then!

    9. Cherry Barbs

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

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    • Scientific name: Puntius titteya
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Sri Lanka, Asia
    • Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, pellets, or flakes. Include some plant matter and live/frozen food
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 68-81ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    Cherry barbs don’t quite live up to the bad reputation of some of the other barb species. These peaceful and interesting schooling fish are great for beginners because they are very low maintenance and thrive in a wide range of temperatures and water parameters. Cherry barbs are a great-looking fish species too, and the males are especially colorful fish.

    10. Red Eye Tetra

    Red Monk Tetra
    • Scientific name: Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 2.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, pellets, or flakes. Include some plant matter and live/frozen food
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The good old red monk or red-eye tetra is a very underrated freshwater fish that is perfect for beginner fish keepers. They grow a little larger than other common species like the neon tetra, so set them up with a nice big tank and plenty of swimming space.

    Red monk tetras are very peaceful, hardy, and active fish. They are social creatures too, so it’s important to keep them in a school of at least 6 of their own species.

    11. Siamese Algae Eater

    Siamese Algae Eater
    Siamese Algae Eater

    A great algae-eating fish that is known for eating black beard algae. Grows up to 7 inches in length and requires a larger aquarium

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    • Scientific name: Crossocheilus oblongus
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Algae
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Temperature: 75-79ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced

    Siamese algae eaters are pretty large but very peaceful fish. They are amazing for keeping your tank clean because they love to eat algae. These tropical fish might not be very colorful, but they have a cool body shape, almost like a shark!

    12. Black Neon Tetra

    Black Neon Tetra
    Black Neon Tetra

    A variant neon variety. More reliant than neon and cardinal tetras

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    • Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed granules, flakes, and live/frozen foods
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    Black neon tetras are super hardy freshwater aquarium fish that are the perfect fish for beginners! They are completely peaceful tetras and get along really well with other species and tank mates.

    Black neon tetras are naturally schooling fish, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6 to really enjoy their natural behaviors.

    Varieties To Avoid

    Now that you know 12 of the best freshwater fish for a new aquarium owner, let’s take a minute to look at a few species to avoid. Now, these are all great fish, but they are a little better suited to more experienced fish keepers.

    1. Goldfish

    Goldfish

    Many people think goldfish are for beginners, but this isn’t actually true. These fish come in loads of fancy goldfish varieties, but they are all the same species as regular goldfish.

    Goldfish are coldwater fish so they definitely won’t be at home in your standard tropical community tanks. Goldfish also grow larger than many people think. At up to 6 inches, goldfishes produce a lot of waste, oh and they love to eat your live plants too!

    2. Cichlids

    Green Terror Cichlid in Aquarium

    Cichlids tend to be aggressive and territorial fish. The African cichlids can be very aggressive and they usually need hard, alkaline water to be healthy. Large South American cichlids like oscar fish need loads of space, and they can be very aggressive too.

    Some species, like angelfish, are pretty easy to keep, but as a general rule, cichlids should be avoided if you’re just starting out.

    3. Freshwater Sharks

    How Does A Bala Shark Look Like

    Freshwater sharks, like bala sharks, are another popular group of tropical fish that are not great for beginners. These fish aren’t actually true sharks, but they have a very similar shape.

    Freshwater sharks can get really big, and some of them tend to get a bit mean towards other fish.

    Why Choose Easy Fish?

    When you’re starting out, it’s best to choose the easiest fish to take care of. Here’s why:

    Your Enjoyment

    Keeping fish should be fun! Keeping low-maintenance fish allows you to spend more time enjoying your pets.

    Even easy fish need good care and regular maintenance, of course, but fish keeping shouldn’t feel like too much hard work, especially if you’re just getting started.

    Time And Budget

    You probably don’t have the time to be caring for your fish for hours every day. Costs can also add up pretty quickly when you start getting into the more advanced fish species.

    So do yourself a favor and start out with a manageable aquarium with easy fish. You’ll enjoy the hobby so much more. Besides, you can always set up more tanks in the future!

    The Health And Well Being Of Your Pets

    Easy fish are much safer for beginner fish keepers because they are less likely to get sick. Of course, you want your pets to live long and healthy lives, so set yourself (and your fish) up for success with some easy and hardy beginner fish.

    What Makes Some Fish Easy?

    Why are some fish easier to keep than others? They’re all fish, right? Well, not quite…

    Some species of fish are just much easier to keep than others! Let’s take a look at why:

    Tank Size

    Smaller fish aren’t necessarily easier to keep than big ones. Small aquariums can be a lot easier to set up and maintain, however. A massive aquarium is a very heavy thing, that needs careful planning to set up safely. Water is heavy, and performing water changes and keeping a large tank clean can be quite a lot of work.

    This doesn’t mean you should go out and get a tiny aquarium, however. Very small tanks are difficult to manage too because the water parameters can swing so quickly. A tank of 20 to 30 gallons is a great size to start out with.

    Water Quality

    Easy fish are a little more forgiving when it comes to changes in water quality. If you’re just starting out, there’s a good chance you’ll make a mistake here and there. Easy fish are more likely to survive mistakes, but of course, you should always strive to keep your water quality as high as possible.

    Parameters

    Some fish need very specific water parameters to stay healthy. Maintaining these parameters can be tough. The easiest fish to take care of are adaptable to a wider range of conditions and parameters.

    Diet

    Some fish need really specific diets. Providing them with the fish food they need can be expensive, or take a lot of planning and effort. Fish that are easy to feed are much easier to keep.

    Temperament

    Peaceful fish are so much easier and less stressful to keep than aggressive species. Nobody wants their pets to fight and hurt each other, so choosing peaceful fish definitely makes for easier fish keeping.

    Caring for Freshwater Varieties – A Crash Course

    Keeping a beautiful fish tank full of healthy aquarium fish takes some careful research and solid planning. In this section, I’ll give you some good general information and tips about setting up your first fish tank.

    Let’s get started!

    Aquarium Set-Up Checklist

    Before you can buy your first freshwater fish, you’re going to need to set up a great freshwater tank where they can live. These are the basic components of any fish tank setup:

    Aquarium (with hood)

    You’ll need to put your tank on a strong and perfectly level surface. A stand or cabinet is best for larger tanks.

    Filter

    This is really important for keeping your water clean and healthy. Buy a model that is rated to your tank size or larger.

    Heater

    This is very important for keeping your water temperature safe for tropical fish species. You’ll need a heater that matches your fish tank size, and be sure to adjust it to the perfect temperature for your fish.

    Lighting

    Your fish need a regular day/night cycle, but your tank should never be exposed to direct sunlight. Fluorescent or LED lamps with a timer are ideal.

    Substrate

    This is the aquarium-safe gravel or sand at the bottom of the tank. Fish tend to prefer darker colors, but you can choose the color that you like best!

    Additional Items

    Once you have put together a basic fish tank, you’re almost ready to go! There are a hundred and one other things that are used in aquariums, but you probably won’t need them yet. Nevertheless, there are still a few really important items that you’ll need to keep your fish healthy and your aquarium looking great.

    Make sure you have all of the items on this list to get started in the right way!

    Decorations

    Decorations make empty fish tanks come to life! Fish love them too because they create hiding places and structures that the fish can swim around. Choose driftwood, natural stone, and a few cool ornaments to create a beautiful aquarium.

    Water test kit

    Test kits allow you to measure important water parameters like pH and nitrates that you can’t see or feel. This is very important for keeping your fish safe and healthy.

    Water conditioner

    Tap water usually contains harmful chemicals like chlorine. Water conditioner neutralizes these chemicals and makes the water safe for freshwater fish. A solution like Seachem AI Prime works great!

    My Pick
    Seachem Prime
    Seachem Prime

    Seachem prime is a easy to use and affordable choice when it comes to remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water. Highly recommended!

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    Gravel vacuum and algae scraper

    These two tools make keeping your substrate and glass clean much easier! You can use your gravel vacuum to suck up waste while you remove water for your regular water changes. An algae scraper helps you to remove stubborn algae without scratching your aquarium glass.

    Thermometer

    Use your thermometer for measuring the water temperature in your aquarium. It will also come in handy when preparing new water for a partial water change.

    Weekly Maintenance And Care Schedule- Your To-do List!

    Keeping your fish healthy and your tank looking great takes a little work. Here’s what you’ll need to do:

    • Before bringing your fish home, make sure to cycle your tank to get the water ready. You’re going to need a little patience because this can take days or even weeks to do. It will all be worth it when you introduce your new fish into their awesome new home!
    • Once your fish are settled in, you’ll need to test the water regularly to keep an eye on nitrate levels in the tank. It’s time to do a water change when the levels get over about 20 ppm (parts per million).
    • Water changes might need to be done every week, every second week, or only once a month. It all depends on your fish and tank setup.
    • Change out about 15-30% of your aquarium water when necessary. Use conditioned water that is the same temperature as your aquarium.
    • Make sure to suck up all the waste at the bottom of your tank with your gravel vacuum. You can also clean your glass if necessary.

    Feeding Your Tropical Companions

    Your fish need a healthy, balanced diet to live a full life and look their best. Most fish do great on a regular diet of dried foods. The most common types of prepared foods are:

    • Fish flakes
    • Granules
    • Pellets
    • Wafers
    • Sinking tablets
    • Gel foods
    • Freeze-dried food
    • Frozen Food

    Providing your fish with frozen or cultured live foods once a week or so will keep them in great condition, and they’ll love it too! These are the best options:

    • Brine shrimp
    • Blood worms

    Overfeeding is a very common mistake, and it can make your aquarium water unsafe and even make your fish sick. You can feed your fish once a day, or provide small amounts of food two or three times a day.

    To be safe, only feed your fish as much food as they can completely finish in a few minutes. That way, nothing goes to waste!

    Where To Buy For Beginners

    You can find most, if not all of the great fish on this list at most fish stores and pet stores. Chat to the sales people at the store to learn more about how they care for their fish and what food they provide.

    If your local pet store doesn’t have what you’re looking for, you can always order your favorite fish online. Buying from a trusted online source couldn’t be easier, and your fish and aquarium supplies will be delivered safely to your door!

    FAQs

    What is the most low-maintenance?

    The kuhli loach is probably the most low-maintenance aquarium fish in the hobby. These peaceful freshwater fish are happy to eat any leftovers that fall to the bottom of the tank, and they live for a long time. You may not even see them when you buy them as they will bury in the substrate and are nocturnal. It’s as out of sight out of mind as you get!

    What is the most simple type to keep in a tank?

    Black neon tetras are one of the easiest fish to take care of. They are very peaceful fish that get along great with other fish in a community tank. They are not fussy about their diet, and they are hardy fish too.

    What is a good first type for a child?

    The betta fish is the perfect first fish for a child. These interesting fish look great and make really wonderful pet fish. The best thing about these small fish is that they can be kept in fish tanks as small as 5 gallons.

    What is the hardiest pet fish?

    Zebra danios are one of the hardiest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. These low-maintenance fish for beginners are very easy to care for, although they should be given plenty of swimming space to keep them happy and healthy.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing the right freshwater aquarium fish when starting out can make all the difference. Fortunately, many amazing exotic species are easy to care for. Choose from this list of fish for beginners to start your very own amazing freshwater aquarium!

    Which is your favorite easy freshwater aquarium fish? Let us know in the comments below! And check out our videos on our YouTube channel as we build our video library up!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 8 Types of Oscar Fish (with Pictures!)

    8 Types of Oscar Fish (with Pictures!)

    Oscars are one of the most popular fish kept in home aquariums. They come in a wide variety of colors and patterns, and they’re usually quite friendly (though they can be territorial towards other fish). Oscars make a great addition to almost any tank, but you might want to know about the popular different types of Oscar fish available. In this blog post, we’ll take a look at eight common Oscar varieties. We’ll also include pictures of each type so you can identify them easily. So without further ado, let’s dive into our list!

    Introduction to Oscar Fish

    Oscar fish are a longtime favorite in the aquarium hobby and one of the most popular freshwater fish period. These fish are big, colorful, and full of personality. So much so that they have been nicknamed the aquarium puppy or river dog by some due to their extremely playful behavior.

    Like other popular freshwater fish, the oscar fish has been subjected to improper care by beginner and inexperienced hobbyists. Many first-time oscar owners are not aware of their true size and just how quickly they will outgrow a tank. If given the right care, these fish can fill a larger tank all on their own.

    The most popular type of oscar fish is the traditional orange and brown combination of the tiger oscar, but there are many varieties available for the more adventurous hobbyist.

    Oscar Fish Care Requirements

    Oscar fish are not impulse buys. They require long-term planning in regards to tank size, tank mates, and diet. Unfortunately, these fish are commonly sold as juveniles when they’re only a couple of inches big, tricking unknowing hobbyists about their true care requirements.

    The truth is that Oscars are monster fish that not many hobbyists have the ability to care for. However, if you’re willing to give a very large tank to one single fish, then the oscar fish might be the best choice.

    Their Natural Habitat

    Oscar fish are scientifically known as Astronotus ocellatus. They are a type of cichlid though they’re not as aggressive as some of their closest relatives.

    Instead, these gentle giants scour the basin of the Amazon River basin in South America for whatever can fit in their mouths. They have been documented in most countries throughout South America, but have known established populations in the United States as well as Singapore.

    These ecosystems are heavily forested with a silt substrate. They prefer slow-moving rivers and tributaries with various structures, like tree limbs, where they can hide and claim territory. Oscars can be found living solitary lives or in small groups.

    Tank Requirements

    In terms of fishkeeping, oscar fish are just another type of South American fish from blackwater conditions. However, their mature size is what makes them difficult to keep.

    Most oscar fish will surpass 1 foot in length at their mature size. In the store, they’re usually sold while they’re still small, which makes more hobbyists willing to buy them; this is a mistake as they’re put into a holding tank that they’ll grow out of with a promised upgrade in the near future. Most times, they’ve never actually given a bigger tank after that and the fish needs to be rehomed.

    The bare minimum tank size for any type of oscar fish is 75 gallons. A 125 gallon tank is even better to allow for more swimming space and more controllable water parameters.

    This tank should be given a powerful filter to keep up with the messy habits of oscar fish. Additional flow is not needed and lighting can remain dim. They prefer a sandy bottom and will enjoy rummaging through it for additional food to eat; this also means that live plants are not safe from being uprooted!

    Otherwise, oscar fish tank setup is simple. Add some rocks and driftwood for shelter and your oscar will thrive.

    What Is The Biggest Type?

    We mentioned before that oscars are monster fish and can easily surpass a foot at adult size. But how big can they actually get and are the different types of oscar fish different sizes?

    The biggest that oscar fish can get to be in captivity is about 18 inches and several pounds. It is rare for them to get any bigger than this, though they can keep growing over their 20 year lifespan.

    Most types of tiger oscar that were derived from Astronotus ocellatus have the ability to reach these monstrous sizes. Some breeders have made short-bodied varieties that may stay slightly smaller, though.

    Temperament

    If oscar fish are known for one thing, it’s their personalities. These fish are full of life and will let you know when they don’t like something in their tank.

    It is important to understand that Oscars are not aggressive fish, though most hobbyists refer to them as aggressive. Yes, they will defend their territories and chase after problematic tank mates, but they won’t attack other fish without a reason. Instead, they are labeled as being aggressive due to their appetite which makes them eat almost everything in sight.

    Oscars are slow-moving fish. They will usually be seen floating in the water column, occasionally moving around to search for food. That being said, they enjoy having plenty of swimming room for when they get quick bursts of energy.

    At the same time, these fish can be quite temperamental. If something is added to the tank that they don’t like, they will become less active and might even try to uproot whatever the new addition is. Even then, they are likely to uproot decorations with no intent.

    Lastly, oscar fish love their owners. They will recognize the person that feeds them and may eat directly out of their hand.

    Tank Mates

    Due to tank size and waste management, most hobbyists don’t keep their oscars with other fish, especially not in a community tank. If space isn’t a problem, then there are a few tank mate options that can go with most types of oscar fish.

    The goal is to get a fish that is too large to be eaten. Some hobbyist feel getting small, fast, schooling fish that can escape your oscar in a large tank are worth it. The logic here is that they can be easily replaced. Going with small fast fish is an approach I wouldn’t recommend.

    One of the best oscar fish pairings is with the severum cichlid (Heros severus). This is because these fish share similar tank and water conditions. Severums are also big enough to hold their own against a full-grown oscar.

    Other possible oscar tank mates include:

    Diet

    Oscars may be the least picky of all eaters; oscar fish eat anything that fits inside their mouths, and we mean anything.

    Oscar fish are primarily carnivores, meaning they prefer a diet that consists of meaty foods. From there, the possibilities are nearly endless for food options.

    These beautiful fish will enjoy a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods such as:

    • Worms (bloodworms, ,blackworms, earthworms, Tubifex worms)
    • Shrimp (full raw shrimp, brine shrimp)
    • Mollusks (clams, scallops, mussels)
    • Insects (insect larvae, crickets, mealworms)

    To help keep costs down, oscar fish may be given high-quality cichlid flakes or pellets; pellets may be preferred as some oscars may refuse to come to the surface to eat. Most local pet stores also carry specific oscar fish food.

    These large fish will eat as much food as they’re given, which can lead to water quality issues and a lazy fish if overindulged. Eventually, your fish will greet you at the top of the tank waiting to be fed.

    Top 8 Types to Choose From

    The most common oscar variety to see is the tiger oscar fish. But did you know there are several other types of oscar fish with incredible colors and patterns?

    Some of these include the blue oscar fish, black oscar fish, and veil tail oscar fish. Some of these varieties may be harder to find than others, though they all generally share the same care requirements.

    1. Tiger

    Tiger Oscar Fish
    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Orange/red marble on black/brown body
    • Unique Traits: Dorsal fin eyespot

    The tiger oscar fish, also known as the marble cichlid or the velvet cichlid, is the original variation of Astronotus ocellatus. These fish are very common to find in aquarium stores and can be identified by their red and orange marble patterning on their dark body; they will also have a bright, unique eyespot beneath the dorsal fin near the tail.

    There is no difference between male and female oscars at any time besides breeding periods. They can successfully be kept in pairs in the aquarium as long as the tank size is adequate.

    2. Albino

    Albino Oscar Fish
    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Light pink shading on platinum white body
    • Unique Traits: Pink/red eyes

    Albino oscars are a natural albino variety of the tiger oscar fish, Astronotus ocellatus. As an albino fish, these oscars have a genetic disorder that causes reduced production of melanin. This results in a platinum white fish with possible lighter pink shading and no marbling.

    However, there are not many true albino oscar fish available; albinism is relatively rare and these fish are in high demand. Because of this, many oscars that are sold as albino are actually lutino.

    At first glance, a lutino oscar fish will look albino. The main difference is that lutino oscar fish have marbled, orange patterning while albino oscar fish can have red or pink shading. When in doubt, check the eye color to distinguish between these two very similar-looking fish!

    3. Blue

    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Contrasting shades of blue with some orange marble patterning
    • Unique Traits: Intensity of blue varies between individuals

    The blue oscar fish (picture source) is extremely rare to find in the aquarium hobby. This is a selectively bred fish that isn’t widely available, leaving it to be on display in only the best of the best aquariums.

    These fish have beautiful, intricate shading where some scales are darker and more intense blue than others. This, paired with the contrast created by the orange marbling, can create a dazzling display unlike any other fish.

    While blue oscar fish have been compared to other intensely colored cichlids, like the electric blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher), there is a depth that has yet to be recreated in another species.

    4. Black

    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Dark body with shaded bands
    • Unique Traits: Light colored belly

    Instead of going vibrant, breeders chose to bring out the best of the dark aspects that oscar fish have to offer. The tiger oscar is a naturally dark fish, but hobbyists took it one step further with the black oscar (video source).

    The black oscar fish is largely a selectively bred fish that has been designed to bring out the intensity of the browns, blacks, and greys that these fish have to offer. As a result, the bodies of these oscar fish are a uniform shade of grey with overlaying darker, marbled bands. The stomach is usually lighter and some orange or red patterning may also be present.

    It should be noted that some tiger oscar fish are naturally darker than others. A black oscar fish will generally lack the intense marbling that comes with the original variation of this fish.

    5. Veil Tail

    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Orange/red marble on black/brown body (tiger oscar variation)
    • Unique Traits: Elongated fins

    The veil tail oscar fish (video source) is a very beautified fish. These fish have been bred to express extra-long finnage, much like veil tail betta fish. These extended tails are almost threadlike and carry the signature black and orange color combination from regular tiger Oscars.

    Though veil tail oscar fish have regular coloration, their patterns have also been exaggerated. Oranges have been intensified and might appear as more organized lines than random blotches across the side of the fish.

    It should be noted that these fins are especially susceptible to being nibbled on by other fish in the tank. Extra-long fins may also become too heavy for your oscar fish to carry, leading them to regularly rest on the substrate and other surfaces around the aquarium.

    6. Red

    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Orange/red body with minimal blacks/greys
    • Unique Traits: Fiery red body

    The red oscar (video source) is the exact opposite of the black oscar. Instead of the dark colors of the tiger oscar being enhanced, the reds and oranges have been maxed out.

    Red oscar fish have almost entirely red-orange bodies; there are no remnants of the regular marbled patterning and the majority of the fish is a fiery color. The only parts that usually remain black or grey are the face and fins.

    In general, an oscar fish with a higher degree of red is more desirable than one with less. This is one of the most attainable varieties of oscar fish in the hobby, though quality will vary along with the price.

    There are many other types of red oscar, including the chili red oscar fish and albino super red tiger oscar fish. These types will vary in intensity and presence of red; some of the highest quality red varieties will present as a uniform red body.

    7. Lemon

    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Light yellow on creamy white body
    • Unique Traits: Yellow coloration

    Named for obvious reasons, the lemon oscar fish (video source) can be a bright yellow color! However, most lemon oscars are actually creamy white with some hints of yellow; only the highest quality lemon oscars will be bright yellow. Although this coloring might seem difficult to achieve, their popularity has made them largely available.

    Yellow is not a very common color to see in predatory freshwater fish, so a lemon oscar fish can instantly become the center of attention for any display. It can also be easy to confuse the lemon oscar with albino or lutino varieties if yellow coloration is minimal.

    8. Lutino

    Albino Oscar
    • Adult Size: 1 foot
    • Color Pattern: Light orange marbling on platinum white body
    • Unique Traits: Orange eyes

    Often confused with the albino oscar fish, lutino oscars are not truly albino. Instead, these aquarium fish have a near platinum white body with orange or yellow marbled patterning. This is in contrast to true albino oscar fish that lack patterning entirely.

    Another main difference between the albino and lutino oscar fish is eye color. Lutino oscars will have orange or dark red eyes while albino fish will have very light pink eyes. Unfortunately, lutino oscars are often sold as albino fish, which can make identification difficult.

    How Many Types Are There?

    Thanks to the aquarium hobby, there are many different types of oscar fish readily available to most enthusiasts. Scientifically, there are only two species within the Astronotus genus, including Astronotus ocellatus.

    Oscars come in a large selection of colors though there is definitely room to expand. Because they require so much space to breed, their true potential remains to be seen.

    Final Thoughts

    Oscar fish are very hardy fish. Unfortunately, their massive size and tank mate limitations are often unknown to beginner hobbyists looking to purchase a small fish.

    Given the right tank size though, there are several types of oscar fish to choose from, all with very similar care requirements but with very different appearances!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Swordtail Fish Care – A Complete Guide

    Swordtail Fish Care – A Complete Guide

    Are you thinking of adding a swordtail fish to your tank? If so, you’re in for a treat! These energetic and colorful little fish make great additions to any community tank. But before you add one to your tank, there are some things you need to know about their care. In this guide, we’ll provide everything you need to know to keep your swordtail fish happy and healthy. So read on and learn all about these fascinating fish!

    A Brief Overview Of The Swordtail Fish

    Scientific NameXiphophorus hellerii
    Common NamesSpecific names depend on coloration; widely referred to as swordtail fish
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    OriginNorth America and Central America
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityPeaceful
    Lifespan3 โ€“ 5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallons
    Temperature Range64 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness1 โ€“ 12 dKH
    pH Range7.0 โ€“ 8.2
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLivebearer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Swordtail Fish Origins and Habitat

    Swordtails are one of the most easily recognizable freshwater fish in the entire aquarium hobby. The swordtail fish have been bred to display all colors and pattern variations while still maintaining their status as being one of the easiest species to keep in the freshwater aquarium. These aquarium fish didn’t start out like this, though.

    Instead, swordtails originate from North and Central America, specifically from Veracruz in Mexico to northwestern Honduras. There, they are found in a variety of ecosystems with varying altitudes, turbidities, depths, water flows, and even salinities. Most often, they are found in relatively shallow systems with dense vegetation. Adults are likely to be in areas of high flow while juveniles will stick towards the margins where conditions are calmer.

    Unfortunately, swordtail fish have entered the waterways of many nonnative continents and countries. They are largely found throughout portions of South America, Africa, and Australia where their invasive populations harm native species1. Most of these populations have been established through aquarium releases.

    Originally, these freshwater species were known as green swordtail fish due to their natural green bodies and red accents. Through the years, these swordtail fish were very carefully bred for color and pattern combinations which eventually led to the overwhelming array of choices available today.

    As we’ll see though, colors aren’t the only thing that has changed about the swordtail fish.

    How Long Do Swordtails Live?

    Swordtails can live a surprisingly long time. On average, the swordtail fish is expected to live 3-5 years in good water and tank conditions.

    For some hobbyists, this can be a problem.

    Swordtails, like other livebearing species, are prolific breeders. Anytime there is a male and female swordtail fish present in the tank, there are likely to be baby swordtails. Adding a swordtail to an aquarium can potentially limit hobbyists in their future livestock additions due to reproduction rates and overstocking.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank

    Swordtails are very recognizable due to their famous feature: their tail that resembles a sword!

    On average, swordtail fish grow to be about 5 inches, though they can measure up to 6 inches and can become quite plump. They have a wide, torpedo-shaped body and round stomach. They are unique in that their dorsal fin is higher than other tropical freshwater fish and the bottom ray of their caudal fin extends well past the rest of their tail.

    This extension makes sexing swordtail fish easy. Males have this feature while females do not; females have a rounded caudal fin with no other special markings and resemble a platyfish (Xiphophorus maculatus). Males are also typically more colorful and smaller than their female counterparts.

    The most common color for swordtails to come in is red; the whole body will be red with a noticeable darker mid-lateral line, especially on the males. The fin extension may also be a different color from the rest of the body or have different colored margins depending on the variety of fish.

    Swordtail Varieties

    Once originally known as the green swordtail, beautiful though plain in color, these aquarium fish have been selectively bred to display almost every color and every pattern combination, mostly consisting of reds, yellows, and oranges.

    It should be noted that swordtails have successfully been hybridized with other species within the Xiphophorus genus, making the possibilities endless.

    Here are some of the most common colors to come across as well as the most designer swordtail varieties available:

    Red swordtail. The red swordtail fish is the most common variation to come across. Both males and females are uniform in color, though males may have a black margin to their tail fin extension.

    Red wag swordtail. The red wag swordtail is a normal swordtail but with black fins. All other features and requirements are the same as the regular red swordtail.

    Pineapple swordtail. The swordtail fish with the best name, these swordtails have a red back with a pale yellow body and white belly. They may have slightly shorter fin extensions than other varieties, which can be a favorable combination along with their colors.

    Red lyretail swordtail. These swordtail fish are named after the instrument as both males and females have a u-shaped tail fin. The body is light orange/red while the dorsal and tail fins are usually black.

    Hi fin lyretail swordtail. An even more accentuated version of the red lyretail swordtail, the hi fin attribute comes from the extremely elongated dorsal fin which is almost as long as their tails; females do not have such exaggerated features. Colors include red, orange, and yellow. Because of their extreme features, hi fin lyretail swordtails need at least a 30-gallon tank and very carefully chosen tank mates that won’t nip at fins.

    Are They A Type Of Molly Fish?

    Mollies, platies, swordtails. They all kind of look the same and have similar care requirements, but what makes them different?

    Swordtails are not a type of molly or platy, even though they are all closely related. Looking at the scientific categorization of these freshwater species, swordtails are Xiphophorus hellerii, mollies are Poecilia latipinna, and platies are Xiphophorus maculatus.

    As we can see, mollies are in a different scientific genus altogether. However, swordtails are in the same genus, Xiphophorus, as platies and are very closely related. Though there are slight variations between these two species–namely, the absence of the elongated tail fin in platies–there is a larger difference in geographic distribution.

    The Xiphophorus genus is split into three phylogeographic clades based on origin. Platies are native to eastern Mexico and Central America. Northern swordtails are found in very specific regions of northeastern Mexico. Southern swordtails, like the ones listed in this article, originate from southern Mexico and northern Central America.

    Care – Temperament and Activity Level

    Swordtail fish are a favorite among beginner hobbyists due to their flashy and active behavior. These fish will quickly fill up empty space in the upper and middle portions of the tank, only venturing to the bottom for food.

    While great additions to the community tank, swordtails can be slightly aggressive towards each other, specifically from male to male. As we’ll see, it’s recommended to keep a very high male-to-female ratio to keep males from becoming aggressive to one another. Males may also become aggressive to similar-looking fish of other species.

    Otherwise, these active fish will provide constant movement to the aquarium display. When they’re not looking for food to pick off of plants and decorations, they’ll be looking to mate.

    What Are Good Tank Mates for Swordtails?

    Swordtails are compatible with most freshwater fish. They are big enough to tolerate larger, slightly more aggressive species while bringing out the best in smaller, schooling types.

    The most important thing to consider when choosing swordtail fish tank mates is fin nipping. These fish have beautiful fins that you don’t want to see get shredded or infected with fin rot!

    Here are some of the best tank mates for swordtails:

    Remember that swordtail fish are capable of hybridizing with platies. While this isn’t necessarily wrong to allow happen, hybridization can lead to some genetic mutations and loss of color lineages.

    It should also be noted that keeping swordtails with other prolific livebearers, like platies or guppies, can quickly lead to overpopulation if not controlled.

    How Many Swordtails Should Be Kept Together?

    Contrary to popular belief, swordtail fish are not a schooling species. They like to be in group settings but won’t actively follow around the other swordtails in the tank for protection.

    That being said, swordtail fish do best when kept in groups of 4 to 6. At least two or three females should be kept for every one male. Hobbyists have had success keeping only one male swordtail fish in a tank–which is the preferred setting if wanting to avoid any chances of reproduction–but they will thrive in a social community setting.

    Since male and female fish are so easy to tell apart, it is recommended to skip a male addition altogether. However, keep in mind that there is the chance for females to already be pregnant before adding them to your tank.

    Can Bettas and Swordtails Live Together?

    Another great beginner fish is the Betta (Betta splendens). These fish are nowhere near as active as the swordtail fish but males are especially colorful with bold personalities. So much so that betta fish are notorious fighting fish that could easily injure a swordtail if paired together.

    Because of this, bettas should not be attempted to live with swordtails. These two fish are not compatible tank mates as swordtails are overly active and can become fin nippers. This could stress out your betta and lead to infection.

    What Do They Eat?

    Swordtail fish are omnivores and will gladly eat whatever they are given. They will love foraging for food on live plants and other decorations, but will readily accept an assortment of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods, like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae.

    To maintain their color, a high-quality tropical fish flake food or pellet should be offered daily; quality flake food is slightly more preferred as they stay at the water’s surface longer. Swordtail fish may also be given algae pellets or flakes as well as blanched vegetables from time to time.

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    What Plants Do They Eat?

    While foraging for food on live plants, swordtail fish have been known to accidentally–or purposely–eat some leaves.

    Swordtails are great algae eaters and will help keep plants free from pests. However, they are so efficient that they might not be able to tell algae apart from a desired live plant. This behavior can be deterred by feeding more often or adding less desired plants that are meant to be eaten.

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Swordtails are very hardy fish and can live in a variety of aquarium setups. Like any fish, swordtail fish need to be kept in a fully cycled aquarium with stable water parameters. Swordtail fish can be slightly messier than other freshwater fish so it’s important that the mechanical and biological filtration systems are ready to handle the bioload.

    Swordtail fish look especially great in a densely planted aquarium on a dark substrate. They will need an aquarium hood to prevent them from jumping out.

    Tank Size

    Swordtail fish are one of the more demanding beginner species when it comes to tank size. These fish are relatively big, active, and need to be kept in small groups. They can also create a lot of bioload for so few fish.

    To help bolster the biological filtration system and to give your swordtail fish enough space to swim, a 20 gallon long tank is recommended. A long tank will give much more space for your fish to swim than a tall tank. Even bigger tanks will allow for a much larger selection of fish to choose from.

    Filtration

    To keep up with bioload, the filter should be rated for at least 2x the size of the aquarium. In regards to swordtail fish, it’s pretty difficult to give too much filtration.

    If you remember, these fish live in areas of high flow in their natural habitat. Though most swordtails in the aquarium hobby have adapted to living in community tanks with minimal flow, swordtail fish can surely survive a tank set up with a high water current.

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    This water flow can be created with filters, powerheads, and wavemakers. Just remember that other community fish might not be able to handle such high water currents as well as your swordtail fish.

    Water Parameters

    Swordtail fish are very forgiving of incorrect water parameters, but that doesn’t mean that you shouldn’t strive to give them the best. Like any other fish, swordtails will succumb to sudden fluctuations in water parameters.

    Swordtails can be kept in a cooler water temperature, though stability is key. A changing water temperature can quickly cause fish to go into shock, so a heater for temperature regulation is strongly recommended. It is also advised to keep swordtail fish in tropical water temperatures in order to have the most choices when it comes to possible tank mates.

    Otherwise, swordtail fish need a neutral pH level with limited nitrates.

    Breeding

    Breeding swordtail fish is straightforward and usually a matter of when rather than if. Swordtails are livebearing fish which means that they will give birth to live young.

    First, get a good mix of female and male swordtails. Some hobbyists choose to remove their mating pairs from the main tank display into a specific breeding tank, though this isn’t entirely necessary.

    Once ready, males will chase after females and the two fish will mate. Over the next few weeks, the female will grow plumper in appearance until she’s ready to give birth. When she’s ready, she will birth anywhere from 50-200 live fry. Not to mention that females can give birth once every month or so!

    The fry will be immediately independent and susceptible to being eaten by the parents and other fish; this usually isn’t a concern as the brood is so large and reproduction can happen so often.

    To increase the chances of fry surviving, they should be placed in their own tank or given plenty of coverage in the form of live plants. Small foods, like baby brine shrimp, will need to be offered until they are ready to accept larger foods.

    Final Thoughts

    Swordtail fish are a popular addition to beginner hobbyist’s fish tanks. These swordtail fish are big, active, and easy to care for but do require some special attention when it comes to water flow and keeping males together.

    Otherwise, these peaceful fish are fun and easy to breed, allowing hobbyists to make their own designer swordtail varieties along the way!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.