Tag: Freshwater

I only kept Bala Sharks at the store — because they get massive and need far more space than most hobbyists realize. These aren’t typical community fish you can drop into a 55-gallon. They grow up to 14 inches, are semi-aggressive, and need to be kept in groups of at least five. A lot of people buy them as cute juveniles without understanding what they’re signing up for. If you can commit to the tank size and the school, though, they’re spectacular fish — and there are some great tank mates that genuinely work alongside them.

While these fish are not true sharks, they grow to some impressive sizes. It wasn’t until lately that hobbyists discovered the true care requirements that bala sharks have in the aquarium setting. If you’re able to properly house one of these monster freshwater fish, then you’ll need to consider some of the best tank mates.

The 15 Best Bala Shark Tank Mates

Such a large fish needs special consideration when choosing tank mates. Bala shark tank mates should be big, active, and able to withstand semi-aggressive and sometimes predatory behavior, especially during feeding times. All recommended minimum tank sizes have been adjusted to accommodate a school of bala sharks and other tank mates.

1. Other Bala Sharks

• Scientific Name: Balantiocheilus melanopterus
• Adult Size: 1-2 feet
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

The best tank mates for bala sharks are other bala sharks! You read that right, these fish do best when they’re kept with their own species.

⚠️ The Biggest Mistake With Bala Sharks: Most people don’t realize what they’re committing to when they buy juveniles. Bala Sharks are semi-aggressive, need a group of at least 5 to feel secure and behave properly, and grow large enough that adults need a 150+ gallon tank. I only kept them at the store for exactly this reason — they’re not practical for most home setups. If you can’t commit to both the school size and the tank space, this is the wrong fish.

While widely available, bala sharks actually come from pretty unique ecosystems where other freshwater aquarium fish aren’t regularly collected. Instead, other monster fish, like the iridescent shark (Pangasianodon hypophthalmus), are collected and kept in extremely large systems or public aquariums. This can make it difficult to pair bala sharks with other endemic species.

Bala sharks also enjoy the company of each other. They can be shy and skittish when the only shark in the tank, and being in the company of others increases their confidence. Keep in mind that an overly bold bala shark can become semi-aggressive and might even try to eat smaller fish.

2. Gouramis

• Scientific Name: Helostomatidae family/Osphronemidae family
• Adult Size: 6-20 inches
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125-250 gallons

Dwarf gouramis (Trichogaster lalius) are some of the most popular fish to keep in community tanks. We’re going to need something a little bigger than a dwarf gourami, though.

There are many species of gourami, some of which grow to extreme sizes, making them a great bala shark tank mate! Two of these species are kissing gouramis and giant gouramis.

Kissing gouramis (Helostoma temminckii) are not usually recommended for community fish tanks but make suitable tank mates for bala sharks. Kissing gouramis can be somewhat territorial, so it’s best to keep your bala sharks in decently sized schools and provide plenty of hiding spots.

The giant gourami (Osphronemus goramy) is a huge fish that requires at least 250 gallons. While these fish are often slow and sluggish and unlikely to chase after more active swimmers, like the bala shark, they may defend their territory if needed. Because of this, it’s best to keep the bala sharks in larger numbers and with plenty of rocks and decorations.

3. Angelfish

• Scientific Name: Pterophyllum spp.
• Adult Size: 4-6 inches
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Water Temperature: 75-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Angelfish are a very popular option as bala shark tank mates. Though bala sharks are active swimmers and angelfish are not, these two species seem to balance each other out. As a result, the angelfish and bala sharks will typically start to float and swim together in the middle of the water column.

There are many species of angelfish available. The common Pterophyllum scalare can reach a large enough size to complement a bala’s length. These fish come in nearly every color combination, which can accent the shine of the sharks. If you’re looking for a real fishkeeping challenge, then you may opt for the expensive and difficult-to-keep altum angel (Pterophyllum altum), which also grow to larger sizes.

Angelfish do best when kept in small groups of the same species. If planning to keep larger species of angel, then it’s recommended to have at least a 150 gallon aquarium.

4. Clown Loach

• Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracantha
• Adult Size: 1 foot
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

One of the most common tank mates for bala sharks is the clown loach. For decades, these fish were kept in overly small community tanks where they couldn’t thrive. While care requirement understanding has changed for these two different species, it’s still agreed that they make a great tank mate pairing.

Clown loaches have very similar temperaments to bala sharks and can grow to relatively the same size. In addition, clown loaches are schooling fish which will help shyer bala sharks come out to the front of the tank.

While clown loaches might seem like smaller fish, they can still grow to be a foot in length. They originate from fast-flowing rivers and need good water circulation, but not so much that your bala shark school gets pushed around the aquarium.

5. Blood Parrot Cichlid

• Scientific Name: Cichlidae hybrid
• Adult Size: 6-10 inches
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 75-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Blood parrots are a hybrid type of cichlid. This means that they can sometimes display aggressive behavior towards overly active or small fish; an especially large blood parrot cichlid may also try to eat smaller fish. Because of this, it’s recommended to only keep appropriately sized bala sharks with these fish.

Otherwise, a blood parrot cichlid will bring a ton of color to a bala shark tank. They are not overly active swimmers, which can help calm shy and skittish bala sharks.

It should be also noted that, because they’re hybrids, blood parrot size can greatly vary. It’s better to go with a larger tank than necessary, not only to allow for potential size and bioload but also to safely keep multiple parrots with multiple sharks.

6. Severum

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Adult Size: 6-10 inches
• pH: 6.0-7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

A true species of cichlid, severums are one of the most popular fish to keep in the freshwater aquarium and make good tank mates for bala sharks. Severums are a relatively peaceful species of South American cichlid. They are much more forgiving of other fish than most cichlids.

However, multiple severums do not do well when placed together in the same tank, especially if the aquarium is small. In certain settings, breeding pairs of severums can be safely kept. Bala sharks are probably too active for a pair of severums aggressively defending their nest and territory, though. For this reason, we only recommend keeping one severum alongside bala sharks.

7. Geophagus Cichlids

• Scientific Name: Geophagus spp.
• Adult Size: 6-8 inches
• pH: 5.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Another South American cichlid, geophagus are natural-looking fish that can vary in appearance. These fish are mostly a mixture of silvers, blues, and greens, with males being more colorful and ornate than females.

Along with appearance, aggression can vary with geophagus species. It is believed that Geophagus altifrons is one of the least aggressive species available. These fish enjoy their own species and being in schools of at least 6 or more, but some hobbyists have kept multiple species together in the same tank as long as space allows.

8. Tinfoil Barbs

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 feet
• pH: 6.5-7.0
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

Tinfoil barbs are very large barbs from Southeast Asia. These fish are not commonly seen available in the normal freshwater fish hobby but are a favorite among monster fishkeepers. These fish grow to extreme sizes as a barb species, and feature a simple silver color with black and red angular fins.

Tinfoil barbs are schooling fish and need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Because bala sharks are also schoolers and share a similar demeanor, an especially large tank is needed. If keeping only these two species, then a 150 gallon is needed. Keeping different species would require a several hundred gallon system.

9. Tiger Barbs

• Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
• Adult Size: 2-4 inches
• pH: 6.0-7.0
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

In addition to the clown loach and bala shark pairing, the tiger barb and bala shark aquarium setup was inescapable for years. Tiger barbs are a very popular community tank shoaling fish and do best when kept in groups of at least 6 or more. Since bala sharks need a large aquarium, hobbyists can easily fit dozens of barbs in a 125 gallon system while still allowing for other species as well.

It should be noted that tiger barbs can be especially nippy and might try to chase and harass slower-moving fish. For the most part, bala sharks should be able to outpower and navigate around, especially feisty barbs, but additional protection through plants and structures will help keep aggression down.

🏆 My Top Pick: Tiger Barbs are my go-to recommendation for a Bala Shark tank. They’re large enough not to be eaten, active enough to match the Bala’s energy, and this pairing has been a staple in the hobby for decades for good reason. Keep your Tiger Barbs in a school of 6+ and their nippy behavior stays in check — a big group keeps them focused on each other rather than harassing tank mates.

10. Boesemani Rainbowfish

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia boesemani
• Adult Size: 3-5 inches
• pH: 7.0-8.0
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Bosemani rainbowfish are very different in comparison to bala sharks by way of appearance, natural habitat, and behavior, but this unusual pairing seems to work. In general, bosemani are a larger species of tropical fish that fills an aquarium with bright colors and movement. This is in contrast to slow but steady iridescent bala sharks.

There is one consideration that needs to be taken when keeping bosemani rainbowfish as tank mates, though, and that is that they enjoy slightly harder and more basic water parameters. As long as both the bala sharks and bosemani rainbows have been kept in standard aquarium water conditions, then there should be no need for acclimation. You can also check out Emerald Rainbowfish as another option

11. Plecos

• Scientific Name: Hypostomus plecostomus
• Adult Size: 1-2 feet
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 75-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

We don’t usually recommend plecos as any tank mate option, but they do well in a large bala shark setup. Like bala sharks, common plecos have been long misunderstood fish regarding their behaviors and potential adult size. Plecos are huge fish that create a lot of waste! They can also easily injure and kill smaller fish by trying to suck the slime coat off their body.

For this reason, only one common pleco is recommended for a 150 gallon aquarium setup. While particularly aggressive plecos may still try to suck on the sides of bala sharks, balas will generally be faster and better protected in a school setting. Mid-sized plecos can also be considered.

12. Silver Dollars

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• pH: 5.0-7.0
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Though many species are regarded as a silver dollar, Metynnis argenteus is one of the most commonly available. Silver dollars are a comparable fish to the aforementioned tinfoil barb, though much, much smaller, and more manageable. These fish are pearlescent silver with some individuals showing hints of red on their anal fin.

Silver dollars are active schooling fish that will complement the same swimming patterns as bala sharks. Though only 6 inches wide, they can start to take up a decent amount of space as they grow vertically.

It should be noted that silver dollars are regularly kept in more acidic water parameters, so some acclimation might be necessary to keep them with balas.

13. Dennison Barbs

• Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
• Adult Size: 4-6 inches
• pH: 6.5-8.0
• Water Temperature: 60-80° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

Dennison barbs are very popular tank mates for a variety of large fish species. They are colorful, active, and get along with most other fish. Unfortunately, these fish originate from very particular ecosystems throughout India, and their numbers are dwindling. All efforts should be made to replicate their natural settings in the home aquarium, including a high rate of water flow.

Otherwise, Dennison barbs thrive in groups of at least 6 or more. They are moderately active swimmers and can become slightly aggressive during feeding times. While they should be completely compatible with bala sharks, some care should be taken to ensure your sharks get enough to eat.

14. Pictus Catfish

• Scientific Name: Pimelodus pictus
• Adult Size: 3-6 inches
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Water Temperature: 75-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons

If you’re not looking for a bottom-dwelling fish as big as the common pleco, then the pictus catfish might offer something smaller and more eye-catching. These fish are silvery-white with assorted black spots across their bodies and fins. They also feature three sets of barbels.

The pictus catfish is one of the most ideal tank mates for a bala shark aquarium as they are largely nocturnal, swim at a different water column level, and complement the natural colors of the sharks. They also stay much smaller than other similar catfish, though they will need to be kept in small groups of at least 3 or more.

15. Giant Danios

• Scientific Name: Devario aequipinnatus
• Adult Size: 3-5 inches
• pH: 6.0-7.0
• Water Temperature: 72-82° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons

The giant danio is becoming an ever-increasing popular fish in the aquarium hobby. They should not be confused with the readily available zebra danio (Danio rerio) as these fish require tropical temperatures and a larger tank.

That being said, giant danios are still very active schooling fish that can easily overwhelm smaller fish. Unlike zebra danios, they swim toward the middle of the water column, where bala sharks also prefer. To make this pairing work, the danios should be overall smaller and in a smaller group size than the sharks.

Aquatic Animals To Avoid

Though bala sharks might be afraid of their own shadow, there are a few fish and invertebrates they won’t be compatible with. Even though bala sharks are relatively hardy fish, they do have some special considerations.

1. Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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Shrimp are great cleanup crew members and can bring color and life to the bottom of the aquarium. Sadly, they are not good tank mates for bala sharks and will be easily eaten instead.

2. Small Snails

For the most part, bala sharks won’t eat mature snails. However, they might be tempted to eat a snail that is smaller than their mouth. For this reason, only large, full-grown snails should be kept as tank mates for bala sharks.

3. Small Fish

For the same reasons, bala sharks should not be kept with fish that are smaller than their mouth. While bala sharks are not overtly aggressive fish, they will not hesitate to try to eat anything that they can.

4. Aggressive fish

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Again, bala sharks are not overly aggressive and they will be harassed and outcompeted by a larger, more aggressive, and more active tank mate. These fish are naturally shy and will not defend themselves if they are attacked by another fish.

Their Care Requirements

While we talked about possible tank mates, we also need to go over the intense requirements of bala sharks. For a long time, bala sharks have been kept in relatively small aquariums due to their unassuming juvenile size and striking appearance. The truth is that bala sharks can grow to be 1-2 feet long!

The bala shark (Balantiocheilus melanopterus) is a slender freshwater fish with pointed fins that resemble those of a marine shark. They have been documented in the Mekong River basin, as well as throughout the Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo. Unfortunately, populations are dwindling in their natural habitat.

As of yet, bala sharks have not been, or are very rarely, bred in the aquarium setting. This means that wild-caught individuals need to be preserved in aquariums that fit their needs. Keep in mind that bala sharks are schooling fish and do best in groups of at least 3 or more. Because of this and their mature size, bala sharks require at least a 125 gallon aquarium, with a longer footprint being better than a tall one.

Want to learn more about their requirements in detail. Check out our care guide here.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

The art of keeping bala sharks has long been misunderstood. These are relatively peaceful fish that grow to large sizes and therefore, need a large aquarium setup. That being said, they can comfortably be kept with a variety of other freshwater fish as long as they don’t fit inside your shark’s mouth and aren’t overly active.

One of my favorite things about bettas is how expressive they are — even when they’re sleeping. Over the years I’ve watched them tuck under floating plants, wedge into tank corners, or prop themselves on a little leaf hammock completely motionless. I’ve had more than a few customers call me convinced their fish had died overnight, only to find out it was just resting. Bettas are remarkably good at going completely still when they sleep. Here’s what you actually need to know about when, where, and how they do it.

How Do Betta Fish Sleep?

Like all living organisms, betta fish need sleep to function properly¹. But of course, the way they sleep is far different than that of humans and other land animals because… well, they live in the sea with no beds, covers, or eyelids. 

Though, the Siamese fighting fish are diurnal animals; they sleep at night and are active during the day—they may take short naps during the day for a few minutes. During nap time, Betta fish usually sleep near the bottom of the tank or on a flat surface, mainly on a plant or substrate. Also, unlike many fish, betta don’t have eyelids, so their eyes remain open when betta are sleeping. 

Since we know that betta fish is a labyrinth fish with a special organ that allows easy breathing on the surface, you may also find them resting near the water’s surface or between floating plants, sleeping in a tilted position. 

🏆 Mark’s Observation: In my experience, bettas strongly prefer sleeping under floating plants or on a leaf hammock placed near the surface — they feel secure with something above them. If your betta doesn’t have either, add a betta hammock or some floating plants like frogbit or water lettuce. You’ll notice a real difference in how settled and relaxed they look at rest. It’s one of the easiest improvements you can make for their wellbeing.

However, if your betta fish is spending too much time on their side or in any one direction, make sure it doesn’t have any underlying medical condition. 

All in all, the sight of betta fish sleeping is beautiful and allows you to study your fish’s own sleeping habits and preferences. Some betta fish like to rest in a particular spot or position while some enjoy various sleeping locations. Therefore, it is important to provide your betta fish with a comfortable environment with lots of hiding spots.

Sleeping Or Sick? – How To Tell If They Are

Not sure whether your betta fish is sleeping or sick? Here are some of the ways you can find out if your betta is sleeping. 

Gill flaring

One of the most peculiar behaviors of betta fish is gill flaring which attracts many betta owners and other aquarists. Betta fish flare their gills for a variety of reasons. However, a sleeping betta fish might temporarily cease the gill flaring behavior to preserve energy while at rest. 

Therefore, if you notice minimal or record gill flaring, know that your betta is taking its power nap!

Breathing rate

One of the most common signs your betta is sleeping is the slowed breathing rate with shallower breathing patterns.

Reduced body movement and activity levels

Like other fish, a sleeping fish tend to move slowly for extended periods of time. Therefore, they show minimal movement and interaction. If you’re a new betta owner, you may find your fish resting with no movement and activity levels. Fret not! They are not dead, just sleeping. 

How Long Do They Rest?

Like every human, every individual betta fish is different than others. Therefore, there is no one answer to “How long do betta fish sleep?”

However, betta fish are diurnal animals i.e., they are active throughout the day and sleep at night. Therefore, if you find a betta sleeping a lot during the time, it is not normal behavior and could be a sign of disease or other problems.

On average, betta fish sleep between 8 to 12 hours a day.

Why Do Bettas Rest A Lot?

Picture yourself swimming wearing a big, flared dress non-stop! Sounds tiring, doesn’t it?

The same goes for betta fish. They have such long, flared beautiful wings that it gets tiring to carry them swimming around the fish tank. Therefore, betta fish, in general, fall under the lazy spectrum because they take longer periods of rest and sleep than their counterparts. 

Just like betta fish, many varieties of goldfish with long fins and stout compact bodies also take significant time resting in the aquarium.

Therefore, if your water parameters; water flow, and water temperature are within the ideal ranges, the inactivity of your fish is nothing serious. For your betta fish to thrive in your aquarium, the ideal water temperature should be between 78-82F since they are tropical fish and prefer warmer temperatures. If your water is too cold for their liking, bettas sleep more than usual because of slower metabolism and may suffer from health issues.

Reasons why your Betta Fish is Sleeping a lot

If you find your betta fish sleeping a lot during the day time, there can a various reasons:

No Stimulation

It would surprise you but your little guy in the tank gets bored too. And yes, they need a little stimulation activities. You might also try some fish training techniques. In short, if your betta is sleeping a lot, they might just be bored and need a little loving to be active again. 

Aquarium lights

Betta fish sleep throughout the night. Therefore, if you leave aquarium lights on during the night, they may disturb the natural sleep pattern of your fish and result in abnormal sleep cycles. Betta loves dark tanks, especially during the nighttime time because their natural habitat is dark and shallow with little water movement. Therefore, it’s crucial to mimic their natural habitat for their better health. 

A healthy betta fish needs at least 12 hours of complete darkness each night in a comfortable environment to promote healthy sleep patterns.

⚠️ Three Things That Make or Break Betta Sleep: First, consistent lighting — use a timer for 10-12 hours on, 12-14 hours off, every day. Second, hiding spots near the surface (hammocks, floating plants) so they feel secure enough to fully relax. Third, stable temperature — a drop below 76°F can trigger lethargy that looks like sleep but is actually temperature stress. Get all three right and you’ll have a noticeably more active, healthy fish.

Temperature shock 

Many aquarists have a misunderstanding that betta fish hibernate. When in reality, they go into temperature shock if the temperature drops below a certain mark since they are tropical fish.

As a result, they may look like they are sleeping fish, but what actually happens is their metabolism slows down and causes temperature shock. Therefore, maintaining a comfortable water temperature is essential to keeping your betta fish healthy, happy, and thriving in an aquarium setting. 

How to Stop Excessive Resting?

Here are a few things you can do to stop reducing your bettas sleeping time. 

1. Make sure the temperature in your tank is within the comfortable range; of 78-82F. If not, you can always install a heater to keep the water warm and easy for your betta fish. I also recommend using an in-tank thermometer for reliable temperature readings.
2. Besides maintaining the water temperature and water flow, it is crucial to feed a varied diet consisting of live food, frozen food, pellets, and other occasional treats for a complete nutritional profile. 
3. Last, but not least, always call your aquatic veterinarian for a careful examination of your betta fish. The most common fish diseases include mycobacteria and swim bladder disease may cause your fish to be more lazy and lethargic. 

How To Distinguish Between a Sleeping Pet and a Dead One

If you ever spot a betta fish floating on the top of your tank or lying on the bottom of the tank, fret not!

They might just be sleeping… but in some cases, you might mistake a dead betta fish with a sleeping betta fish. Therefore, it’s important to pinpoint the differences between the two. Here are some of the signs of a dead betta fish you should look out for:

1. If your betta fish stays at the bottom of the tank for several days, chances are they are dead. However, if they have just settled recently, they might just be sleeping peacefully.
2. If the scales seem pointy and elevated away from the body with a swollen stomach, your betta fish might be just or is near death. 
3. There are white spots around the body with discolored fins. You can use a flashlight to observe the color carefully.
4. When they don’t even respond during the feed time and are not interested in food. 

It is crucial to let your betta fish rest. However, if you find your fish lying motionless for long periods, examine the gills and mouth carefully and observe its breathing patterns. If your betta fish is not breathing and moving, know that it’s dead.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Betta fish keeping as a leisure hobby is increasing day by day, but taking care of your bettas’ sleep is one way to keep them healthy and active. Other than their diet, water parameters, and water flow, you should also consider keeping your tank clean and taking care of their tank mates. Always go for compatible tank mates such as mystery snails, shrimps, and guppies to reduce stress and increase interactivity. 

A betta tank should be well-lit in the daytime and dark throughout the night, so they get enough sleep since they are very light sleepers. 

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

I dealt with Columnaris more times than I can count during my years running the local fish store. Customers would come in with a fish showing what looked like mild fin damage or a pale patch near the dorsal — and if we weren’t fast about it, that fish would be gone within 24 to 48 hours. I’ve personally cured fish with this exact protocol, and the one thing I always told people: don’t make the mistake of treating this like an ordinary bacterial infection that a basic salt dip will handle. Columnaris is aggressive, it spreads fast, and it requires a focused, multi-step approach. Here’s exactly what I do.

Before You Get Started

• Aquarium salt
• Antibiotic medications – Methylene blue or Triple Sulfa (if available in your country)
• Thermometer (To measure tank temperature)
• Quarantine Tank (if available)

How To Cure Columnaris: A Step By Step Guide

Step 1 – Quarantine The Fish

While it is certainly possible to treat the fish inside your display tank, my preference is to treat them in a quarantine tank.  If you cannot set up a quarantine tank in time, you’ll need to treat in the display tank. Note that Methlene blue is known to stain silicone and will affect your system’s beneficial bacteria, which is why I prefer to quarantine.

If you do not quarantine the fish, you should do a 50% water change before any treatment occurs. This will ensure you have ideal water parameters before you add any medications.

In all my years treating Columnaris in-store and at home, quarantine was the single biggest factor in whether a fish survived or not. I always told customers: set up a spare 10-gallon with a sponge filter before you ever need it — not when a fish is already showing symptoms. Once Columnaris gets going, every hour counts. A QT tank that’s already cycled and ready the moment you spot something is the difference between a recoverable situation and watching a fish decline rapidly.

Step 2 – Treat The Tank With Salt

You will need to dose the tank with salt. You’ll need to be quite liberal with the dosage and amp it up to 2 and half tablespoons per gallon or 3 cups per 20 gallons. This is a lot of salt and will harm any plants in the tank. Note that some fish like Plecos are sensitive to salt so you will need to take caution with them. Some snails and shrimp are also not tolerate of salt treatment.

One mistake I see over and over: a hobbyist spots a sick fish, reaches for aquarium salt, doses the tank, and waits. With most freshwater bacterial infections, salt alone goes a long way. Columnaris is not that type of disease. Salt is only one component of a three-part protocol — without quarantine, temperature reduction, and Methylene Blue all working together, you are not treating this infection effectively, and the fish will most likely not survive.

Step 3 – Dose With Methylene Blue

When antibiotics like Triple sulfa were available, this would have been my go to. However, since it is no longer available in the US and is hard to find (and expensive), my recommendation is to use Methylene Blue. While this is primarily used to treat fungal diseases, it is also effective for this treatment procedure because it acts as a disinfectant. Use the recommended dosage as stated on the manufacturer’s bottle

Step 4 – Lower Water Temperature

Columnaris spreads rapidly in higher water temperatures. Therefore, lowering the temperature might help. You want to target a temperature of 70 – 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, if your fish is accustomed to higher temperatures, it will take some time to adjust to temperature changes. Thus, I recommend lowering the temperature by only 2F every two hours.

Step 5 – Monitor Water Quality And Observe

Columnaris bacteria thrive on organic waste. Therefore, it is essential to keep your tank clean and maintain the recommended water parameters for your fish. Check your water for ammonia, nitrate, nitrite, KH, and GH, and ensure nothing is affecting your fish adversely.

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The observation period for this treatment is 7-10 days. In most cases, if the fish survives, the fish should be cured of columnaris and it should be eliminated from the tank. Anything you use in this tank that is untreated, you will want to sterilize. A solution of bleach or dry out for several days will kill off any remaining infection.

What To Avoid Doing

• Don’t ignore the condition – treat it quickly. Don’t wait around!
• Avoid doing water changes. If a water change is made, you will need to re-dose the tank
• Do not carelessly add fish afterward, consider a quarantine process for new additions going forward to prevent recontamination.

What To Do If Symptoms Are Still Around After 10 Days?

If the infection is stubborn, it’s time to go with a half dosage of meth blue and salt. This is an extreme dosage. Either this will eliminate the disease or your fish will end up passing away. Treatment after 10 days tends to have a low success rate, and we get into a worse case scenario.

Note that this technique I outline does not use antibiotics. There are methods where you can, but I preferred for this post not to include them because the ideal medication isn’t available in the US and this method does have a high success rate.

How To Prevent It

As mentioned earlier, the Columnaris bacteria thrive on organic waste. Therefore, partial water changes every two weeks and regularly test water chemistry to ensure recommended water parameters are some of the best ways to keep the bacterial infection at bay. 

Furthermore, the immune system of your fish should be healthy and strong enough to fight off the bacteria. Strong immunity is a result of eliminating stress factors such as bullying and harassment or water fluctuations from your aquarium. It is also recommended to clean up the fish waste and decaying plant matter and gravel to foster a hygienic environment for your fish. 

Also, overcrowding, tank size, and tank mates should be taken into consideration because these factors directly impact the stress levels in your fish. Additionally, a balanced diet with occasional treats might help keep the infection at bay. 

What Exactly Is This Disease?

Columnaris disease is common among freshwater fish, particularly among livebearers fish such as guppy fish, Molly, etc. This disease is mainly caused by Columnaris bacteria that are long and rod-shaped; appearance-wise.

Columnaris disease is commonly known as saddleback disease, guppy disease, cotton wool disease, and cotton mouth disease. In brackish and saltwater the species Flexibacter maritimus is the equivalent and is more severe, though not common to see in aquariums.

What Are The Symptoms?

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Columnaris is often mistaken as a fungal infection because the fish might show signs of mold-like lesions on their bodies. However, Columnaris is caused by bacterial infection and forms lesions that progress gradually and end up killing the entire freshwater fish population in your tank, if left untreated.

Some of the common symptoms of Columnaris are:

1. Grey or white spots on the head, fins, and gills
2. Infected gill tissue
3. Lesions on the body
4. Lesions on the mouth area or puffy lips
5. Frayed, bleached out, and ragged fish’s fins

One of the first signs you’ll notice is frayed or ragged fins, commonly referred to as fin rot. However, not all fish experience fin rot and may show some other symptoms. For instance grayish or whitish spots of patches on the head or gills.

Sometimes, the lesions on your fish extend down to the sides, giving it the appearance of a saddle near the dorsal fin, and that’s why the common name for Columnaris disease is “saddleback disease”. Ultimately, as the bacterial infection progresses you may notice some other external changes in your fish such as moldy lesions around the mouth and frayed fins. Once the saddleback symptoms occur, a fish will usually survive 1-2 day days if left untreated until ultimately passing away.

However, not all symptoms are external. Some are behaviors that make your fish look more lethargic and weak, with a loss of appetite and hanging out at the surface of water.

What Are The Causes ?

The main culprit of the cotton wool disease or saddleback disease is a bacterial infection that particularly affects freshwater fish’s gills. Some of the major causes of columnaris disease in freshwater fish are:

1. Poor water quality

One of the main reasons your young fish might get Columnaris is poor water quality that compromises the overall health of your fish. 

High levels of ammonia, nitrates, and other pollutants can contaminate your entire tank water and induce stress in fish. Stress messes up the immune system of your fish, making them susceptible to fatal diseases like Columnaris. 

2. Stress 

As mentioned earlier, stress weakens the immunity system of your fish, making it more prone to diseases. Avoid overcrowding, choose suitable tank mates, and feed a balanced diet to eliminate stress in your aquarium. 

3. Injury

Fish with injuries in the form of wounds and lesions are more vulnerable to bacterial infections because Columnaris usually enter the fish through open wounds and lesions on the skin, gills, or fish’s mouth. 

4. Fluctuating water temperature

Studies suggest that fluctuating water temperature influences the metabolic rate of bacteria and affects their growth activity¹. Columnaris are mostly associated with warmer temperatures. Therefore, maintaining a stable water temperature for specific fish in your aquarium might help prevent Columnaris and bacterial proliferation. 

5. Untidy tank 

Columnaris bacteria thrive on uneaten food, fish waste, decaying plant matter, dead fish, waste products, and overall a contaminated tank with lots of pollutants. Therefore, it’s crucial to keep your tank clean with pristine water conditions for a healthy ecosystem. 

6. Poor nutrition

A balanced diet means a healthy immune system. A healthy immune system means a strong fight against bacterial and fungal infections. 

Feeding your fish a varied diet, rich in proteins and occasional treats is important to keep the livestock healthy and happy for a long period of time. 

7. Introducing New Livestock To The Tank

If you want to introduce a new fish into your tank, think again!

Because you never know what the fish might bring into your super healthy and playful aquarium. Quarantining a new fish into a separate tank is the most reasonable idea to avoid big problems such as Columnaris and other fish diseases. 

How Does It Enter Your Fish’s Body?

Columnaris strikes when the fish’s immune system is not strong enough to fight the bacteria. The bacteria can enter your fish’s body through gills, mouth, or small wounds on the skin. Therefore, the physical health of your fish is trivial to ensure the overall health. 

The cotton wool disease or saddle back disease is often spread through contaminated fish nets, containers, and uneaten food. Since the disease is highly contagious, it’s always recommended to sterilize your tank decorations or equipment to keep everything in prime condition. 

Conclusion

Columnaris disease is common in freshwater and tropical fish at water temperatures above 15°C or 59°F. At higher water temperatures, the progress of Columnaris disease is faster. Therefore, it is suggested to keep the water temperature low and stable throughout the year. Also, Columnaris bacteria love fish waste, dead fish, and organic waste. Therefore, proper filtration and weekly water changes should be done to prevent Columnaris in the long run. A good quarantine practice should prevent the problem entirely. 

Have any questions for me? Leave a comment in the comments below. I’m also leaving an FAQs section asked by some readers so you can review them as well. Thanks for reading and see you next time!

FAQS

How long can a fish survive with Columnaris?

The survival time of a fish with Columnaris depends on a number of factors. For instance, the severity of the infection, the presence of other stressors in your aquarium, and the overall health of your fish. The fish with the strongest immune system fight off the disease better than others. Therefore, it is important to understand the factors that may affect the lifespan of your fish in general. 

In some cases, Columnaris can cause instant death of your fish within a short period. It’s especially true if the infection is advanced and not treated properly. However, most cases of Columnaris can be treated successfully if diagnosed early with appropriate treatment. 

However, if your fish is already stressed or suffering from other health issues, it may have a hard time fighting off this disease. Therefore, it is important to monitor water quality and perform water changes regularly. Also, feed your fish a balanced, nutritious diet to support a healthy immune system. 

All in all, consult a professional before treating your fish or administering any special medicine for Columnaris.

Can fish survive Columnaris?

It depends on many factors such as the severity of the infection, the health of the fish, the effectiveness of the treatment provided, and if it is caught early.

Nonetheless, it is a highly contagious disease that requires swift intervention. Some of the factors that may help in the survival of your fish include:

1. Early detection by recognizing the symptoms of the diseases and starting the treatment promptly. The longer the infection progresses, the less chances of survival for your fish. 
2. Maintaining aquarium water quality and tank conditions by providing a stress-free environment is essential for the overall immune function of your fish.
3. Isolating the infected fish from the healthy ones can prevent the spread of the disease for more focused treatment 

Is columnaris a fungal or bacterial disease?

Many aquarists confuse Columnaris with a fungal infection. However, the causative agent of Columnaris disease is a bacteria named, Flavobacterium columnare, which is a gram negative bacteria affecting various freshwater fish. 

You can easily spot a fish with Columnaris disease by the presence of white, thread-like lesions on the skin, fins, and gills. And while Columnaris is a bacterial infection, it may give birth to many fungal infections.

Can salt cure columnaris?

Yes it can when done correctly. This blog post outlined a simple solution of using a hard dosage of salt to cure columnaris. It can be used to eliminate the disease as long as it is caught early.

How do you diagnose Columnaris disease?

Columnaris disease begins as external infections as lesions on the body surface and gills. However, the type of lesions depends on the fish. In catfish, some of the external symptoms are small and circular lesions with gray blue centers and red margins. However, in scaled fish, the lesions begin on the outer margins of the fins and gradually spread throughout their bodies. 

Some behavioral signs of Columnaris include lethargy, loss of appetite, erratic swimming patterns, scratching, and rubbing against the surface to aid discomfort. 

One of the obvious areas of examination is the fish’s gills. That’s because Columnaris directly affects the gills and may show signs of inflammation, discoloration, or excessive mucus production. 

Is Columnaris treatable?

As fatal and contagious as it may seem, Columnaris is definitely treatable with the right medications, early detection, and prompt intervention. 

How to treat columnaris in betta fish?

Treating Columnaris in betta fish is pretty much the same as treating any other fish. Use the same steps outlined in the post for betta fish. It should work the same with them. The main issue with bettas is the water temperatures, but Bettas can tolerate lower temperatures for longer than this treatment calls for.

How to disinfect aquarium equipment after each use?

While treating Columnaris outbreaks in your tropical fish tank, it is recommended to sterilize or disinfect all the tank decorations and other equipment after each use. For this, you can use the commercial treatment of Benzalkonium Chloride solution (Net Soak or Net Dip). Or you can also use hydrogen peroxide, and dip all of your tank decorations in 3% solution. 

🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide — your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

Can You Eat Goldfish? The quick answer is yes, you can. However, eating your pet goldfish might sound repulsive, but there are some genuine reasons why you should.

Goldfish are a fan favorite in the aquarium hobby, but they also have a huge financial, historical, cultural, and ecological importance. For many, these fish are a domesticated species of wild carp that have made their way into the home aquarium, but some see them as a viable source of food while also controlling invasive populations.

Ever wondered about whether or not you could eat a domesticated goldfish? Keep reading to find out why you should or shouldn’t take a bite of your fishy friend!

The History First

Before deciding whether or not to eat your goldfish, it is important to understand where these freshwater fish came from and why.

Domesticated goldfish (Carassius auratus) are the result of thousands of years of selectively breeding various species of wild Asian carp for desired shapes and colors. These wild fish were kept throughout East Asia in sacred ponds for ornamental purposes as well as cultural and spiritual significance as they were thought to bring prosperity and luck.

Eventually, this new fish became popular in other countries, namely Japan, where the desired traits were bred out even further to create some of the vibrant colors and unique shapes we have today. As the popularity of goldfish increased, European nobility adopted pet goldfish and eventually exported them to North America.

Towards the 1800s, pet goldfish popularity exploded. This gave way to the many popular breeds we have today, but it also helped contribute to the exponential release and rise of goldfish as an invasive species to natural waterways.

Culinary Usage

While goldfish have mostly been seen as pets, close carp relatives have always been on the menu.

Just like goldfish, carp were domesticated for consumption. The harvesting of carp can be dated back to early Chinese and Roman history. Dishes and methods of preparation undoubtedly spread across the world, though they were especially popular in rural areas.

During the early 1900s, goldfish swallowing became a fun party trick fo college students in universities; the challenge was to swallow a live goldfish whole. This tradition of swallowing goldfish still lives among some campuses but has raised questions of ethics and safety. It’s also a very popular dare or bar trick done in colleges (most notably Matt Schulien⁴).

The most-publicized college fad in history started on March 3, 1939, in the Harvard Union, when freshman Lothrop Withington, Jr., ’42, goaded by a bet with his roomates, downed a goldfish never to be upped again. Pocketing a wager of $10 in good 1939 currency for his efforts, the Yardling thus ushered in a two-month period, which “Time Magazine called “among the maddest in the annals of U.S. Undergraduates.”

Source – The Harvard Crimson

Today, carp fisheries are still in business, and dishes, like the Japanese nishikigoi nabe–a koi hot pot–are still popular. In fact, Lake Eerie, Michigan is one of the biggest producers of goldfish and carp meat, which has proven to be a very lucrative bycatch from local fisheries. The practice is starting to pickup in the United States:

In 2015, Michigan and Ohio commercial fishermen netted 113,800 pounds of goldfish in western Lake Erie, the only Great Lake that yields enough to market. Michigan waters produced about 78 percent of that catch, or 88,791 pounds.

Source – MLive

But can you eat goldfish?

The answer is yes, you can eat goldfish. There are actually a few good reasons why you should try eating goldfish, but also a few counterarguments as to why these fish should stay pets.

Reasons For

What makes goldfish different from any other freshwater fish? Anatomically, not much. This means that they’re technically edible and safe to eat as long as they’ve been raised in healthy conditions. While disease and illness are a real concern, whether or not to eat goldfish is largely a question of ethics.

If you need help feeling better about choosing to eat a goldfish, though, here are a few reasons why you might take the chance.

Controlling Populations

The main reason to eat a goldfish is to control wild populations. Goldfish are one of the most invasive species of fish on all continents apart from Antarctica¹. These fish reproduce quickly and adapt to imperfect conditions. On top of this, goldfish are regularly added to ponds and rivers by unprepared fish owners. This leads to them quickly outcompeting other native species.

Reproduction

During the peak spawning seasons, goldfish can reproduce almost every 3 weeks. These egg clutches can be anywhere from a few hundred fish to several thousand, depending on the maturity and health of the goldfish. While not all fry survive, many new goldfish enter the ecosystem and take away resources from other species.

Habitat Destruction

If you’ve ever kept a goldfish in an aquarium before, you’ll know that they’re very messy fish. Not only do these fish eat a lot and create a ton of waste in return, but they like to rummage through the substrate and uproot plants and decorations.

Wild goldfish demonstrate these same behaviors. They are ravenous fish that will clear a habitat of its natural resources. In the beginning, this was used as a benefit as goldfish helped eliminate algae from waterways. However, as the fish processed the foods and created waste, they would actually increase the amount of nutrients and subsequent algae in the water.

Not only do invasive goldfish outcompete other species by taking resources, but they also change the makeup of the entire environment.

Hardiness And Adapting

Goldfish are also incredibly hardy and adapting. These fish are a coldwater species that can survive a wide range of temperatures. They are also very prepared to hibernate over long, cold winters. While goldfish will still succumb to high levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, they are much more hardy than other fish species that might be present.

While it might not seem like a significant amount at the local scale, hundreds if not thousands of ornamental goldfish are released in the wild every year around the world². This leads to goldfish populations establishing in new ecosystems while also resupplying and adding to already existing ones.

Both these factors, in addition to hobbyist releases, lead to exponential growth in populations. Many ecosystems lack a natural goldfish predator, and so populations are left uncontrolled.

As mentioned before, some fisheries have started harvesting wild goldfish for commercial purposes, but recreational fishermen are also encouraged to try eating wild goldfish they may catch. The hope is that eating goldfish becomes as normalized as eating other freshwater fish species.

Normalizing Eating Goldfish

Another reason to eat goldfish is because there aren’t very many reasons not to if you’re careful. If you consider a goldfish like any other kind of fish species, then there are few differences. The main difference is that some goldfish are raised to be pets while other fish are raised to be food.

The truth is that eating wild carp and goldfish is a cultural norm in some places. Expanding your appetite also helps support goldfish farming and carp fisheries that would otherwise lose profit to unusable bycatch.

Reasons Against

Can you eat goldfish? Yes. But justifying humans eating goldfish is another story.

There are several reasons why you shouldn’t eat goldfish, including taste and proportion, disease and illness, and ethics. Not only are these fish members of the family, but they can also cause problems if not harvested correctly.

Taste And Proportion

One of the main reasons to not eat goldfish is due to their taste. While I’ve never personally tried these fish, I’ve heard goldfish taste similar to the worst parts of a muddy catfish, no matter how much seasoning you use.

This makes sense, though. Members of the carp family are largely bottom-dwelling fish that eat a variety of vegetation, insects, and, sometimes, garbage. These are scavenging fish that will dig through the dirt for food and will likely end up eating some of that dirt along the way, resulting in a muddy taste. Raw fillets are also very smelly, and the smell does not fade even when you cook goldfish.

Not only do goldfish taste muddy, but they’re also very bony fish. These fish vary greatly in size from one individual to the next, meaning that bones can be big or small. Even then, small bones are difficult to remove and often not worth the time of removing. Because of this, it’s often recommended to cook goldfish in a stew or soup to extract the flavor and easily remove the meat. It is safe to say goldfish raw dishes don’t exist and don’t expect goldfish sushi!

Another aspect to consider is that goldfish have very little meat. Even though these fish can surpass a foot in length, the fillets cut are still very small. This, in addition to the muddy taste, smell, and many bones, makes eating a goldfish more work than it’s worth.

However, the cooking process has a lot to do with whether goldfish taste good or bad. As mentioned before, many cultures eat and enjoy goldfish as a food source.

Disease And Illness

One of the main concerns about eating a domesticated or feral goldfish is disease and illness. Like other fish, goldfish carry harmful parasites, diseases, and illnesses – especially if you purchase feeder fish. There is also a risk of salmonella from eating fish from your fish tanks.

If you decide to eat domesticated or wild goldfish, then it definitely shouldn’t be eaten raw. This is because goldfish are known to carry a specific disease, known as fish tuberculosis, caused by a harmful bacteria, Mycobacteriosis spp..³ This can be transferred to humans and cause many complications.

Like other freshwater species, goldfish can also carry harmful parasites. Various worms and parasitic microorganisms are common in wild animals but are also likely to be found in the home aquarium. Consider all the possible illnesses ornamental aquarium species carry, like ich, velvet, and dropsy. All of these conditions can be found dormant or active in goldfish.

As mentioned before, it is also possible that goldfish living in a backyard pond or other outside ecosystem can ingest garbage.

It’s important to keep in mind that almost every fish harvested for commercial foods contains parasites. However, many fish are treated with antibiotics to prevent breakouts.

Ethics

The main reason why people don’t eat live goldfish is largely due to ethics. Whether you win your fish at a fair, catch it in a lake, or buy one from the pet store, these fish were bred to be pets. For too long, these fish were sold with the intent of being kept in a controlled environment. While they can survive and withstand harsher conditions in the wild, this is often seen as inhumane and irresponsible by most fishkeepers.

It’s hard to think about eating a pet, and many fish owners would not even have the thought cross their mind. It is important to understand why some communities may rely on live goldfish as a food source and how their consumption could create a positive impact.

Laws

Even if you wanted to eat a goldfish, it might be illegal where you live. Several countries have laws surrounding animal preparation and consumption, including that of goldfish. Even more countries have strict regulations surrounding catching and harvesting both freshwater and marine life.

If you do intend to eat goldfish, then always check with local laws and regulations.

Bonus – Where To Learn How To Cook Them

Okay so you weighed the options and are curious now. Where do you learn how to cook them? I’ll provide two sources for you. One is by Village Food Village and the other is from the MeatEater. Since I know several readers will be shocked seeing fish that look like their pets get cooked and eaten, I’ll leave you to clicking the links to see the video.

FAQs

References

• https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/004484869400227F
• https://www.mlive.com/news/2016/04/great_lakes_goldfish.html

Final Thoughts

Are goldfish edible? Yes. What do goldfish taste like? Well, not the best.

Goldfish have a long history of being beloved pets in the aquarium hobby. These fish were bred over thousands of years for the best colors and patterns, and they largely rely on humans for their livelihood. However, exploding populations and normalized bycatch may just make these fish the next most popular dinner platter.

As long as the goldfish are carefully curated for human consumption, then there is no reason they can’t be eaten. If you’re worried about taste, disease and illness, or just can’t seem to eat your scaly friend, then they still make fantastic pets.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.