Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Tinfoil Barbs are one of those fish that get bought in groups of three for a 30-gallon tank and end up as the aquarium store’s next donation. They school, they get large — up to 14 inches — and they need serious swimming space. They’re also plant eaters, so a heavily planted setup is off the table. What they’re genuinely good for is a large, species-appropriate tank with similarly-sized peaceful fish where you want active, impressive schooling movement. Done right, a school of Tinfoil Barbs in a big tank is something to see. Done wrong, it’s a common mistake I’ve watched play out too many times in this hobby.

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Overview 

Brief Introduction

The tinfoil barb (Barbonymus Schwanenfeldii), or Goldfoil barb, Schwanefeld’s Barb, River Barb is one of the largest fish from the Cyprinid family. The tinfoil barb species are aquatic gentle giants that need a spacious aquarium with lots of beautiful tank decorations. So, if you have the required huge space, this barb fish is ideal for you because it is: 

1. Beautiful and impressive
2. Easy to care for
3. Peaceful species

Also, they are schooling fish that lives the best with a school of five fish or more of their size and kind. If you’re keeping them in a tinfoil barb aquarium, be sure to clean the tank regularly and keep an eye on the fish’s activities.

Origin & Habitat

The tinfoil barbs come from the native streams of Borneo, Sumatra, Thailand, and the Malayan peninsula. Later, it was introduced in Singapore and other places. Therefore, they are widely available worldwide.

In the wild, they can be found in rapidly moving rivers and streams. Similarly, in your aquarium, Tinfoil Barbs will appreciate strong currents and strong moving water. 

Appearance

In their natural state, the tinfoil barbs are silver or golden yellow in color with lustrous scales. Their fins have beautiful hues of black, orange, and red.

The bodies of tinfoil barbs are torpedo-shaped and have high back and forked tail fin. The dorsal fin is usually red with black blotch along its tip. They also have red pectoral, pelvic, and anal fins. While the caudal fins are orange or have a shade of deep with black submarginal stripe on the upper and lower ends.

Difference between Juvenile and Adult Tinfoil Barb fish

The juvenile tinfoil barbs are different from the adult in terms of body and fin coloration. The young tinfoil barbs have basic silver or tin-plated scales. As they grow older, they develop color to their scales and the pelvic and anal fins turn red with a white tip on the dorsal fin. 

Appearance-wise, tinfoil barb resembles their smaller cousins, red-tail tinfoil barb. But, tinfoil barbs are much larger. Other than their size, they are almost identical. 

Artificially Colored Tinfoil barb:

You may find some bizarre, intriguing colors in the tinfoil barb that are rather transparent or albino. These artificially colored freshwater fish are sold under many different names such as Blushing Tinfoil Barb or colored names like blue, pink, purple, and orange.

Even though attractive, the artificially colored variety poses serious challenges to the fish-keeping world. Therefore, many experts raised serious concerns about this practice because this process may cause stress and pain to the fish. Eventually, the tinfoil barb may be exposed to infections and other diseases by this process.

Food & Diet

Wild tinfoil barbs feed mainly on plant material, but since they are omnivores; they also eat treats in the form of worms, insects, submerged land plants, crustaceans, small fish, and filamentous algae.

In captivity, tinfoil barbs eat all kinds of live food, fresh, frozen, or flake food, such as brine shrimp, and bloodworms. In short, they love proteins and also, tinfoil barb eat small fish. So, it’s not recommended to keep small or tiny fish in their aquarium as they might see them as potential prey. 

Additionally, their diet should also contain vegetable substitutes such as wafers, cooked lettuce, spinach, or oatmeal. You can also feed them algae wafers.

Temperament and Behavior

Generally, tinfoil barbs are peaceful fish species. However, make sure you don’t keep them with tiny fish because they might end up harming other small fish. All in all, they are peaceful schooling species that are enthralling to watch in home aquariums.

I advise keeping them in a school of at least 5 or more fish of the same size and temperament. Also, avoid keeping shyer fish that prefer slow moving water as they are super active and prefer fast moving water. As a result, the other slow fish might feel intimidated by them and may feel unnecessarily stressed.

Tinfoil Barb Tank Mates

The ideal tank mates for tinfoil barbs are:

1. Bala shark
2. Angelfish
3. Silver dollar
4. Tetras
5. Plecos
6. Arowanas
7. Gouramis (Gold, Opaline, and blue)
8. Large cichlids like the Oscar Cichlid
9. Fire eel
10. Clown loach

Complete Care Guide

Tinfoil barb is a moderately hardy freshwater fish that is very easy to care for. Therefore, it is ideal for beginner aquarists. However, because they are very large freshwater fish, their demands are particular. As a result, things might not work out for beginner aquarists.

If you’re adamant on keeping tinfoil barbs as an adorable pet, proper tank setup with ideal water requirements should be maintained.

Tank Requirements

Since tinfoil barbs grows very large rapidly, you need a spacious tank of no less than 225 gals (852 L). Also, they thrive in a community aquarium to feel comfortable. Additionally, you need high-quality filters to keep the water in optimal conditions and maintain high levels of oxygen and water flow in the tank. 

The tinfoil barb fish species are skilled jumpers, so a tank lid or cover is highly recommended to keep them safe. In the natural tinfoil barb habitat, the water is fast flowing with active currents, so you need to mimic the environment by powerheads. They also love to burrow the substrate and soil, so you need to place some of the hardest aquarium plants that can survive their wrath. 

Tank Size

The minimum tank size for a Tinfoil barb tank is no less than 225 gallons or 852 litres. Since they grow very large, they are not suitable for nano tanks or small tanks. 

Water Parameters

Here is the ideal water for a tinfoil barb tank:

Live Plants

Unfortunately, when it comes to keeping live plants, tinfoil barbs are complete monsters. They will destroy the plants even if they are well-fed and happy. Due to this, many aquarists give up the idea of a planted tank with Tinfoil fish.

However, if you’re determined, you should keep hard-leaved plants Anubias with thick, waxy leaves that the tinfoil barbs find hard to eat. Other great live plants are Crinum, Larger Vals, Java Fern, and Sagittaria.

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Tank Decorations

The tinfoil barb doesn’t leave live plants and tank decorations in good condition if they are too immaculate for their tank.

Therefore, it is recommended to keep large pieces of driftwood as tank decorations on a sandy substrate to mimic their natural habitat.

Substrate

Though the tinfoil barb will do pretty much great in an empty tank, a sandy substrate with scattered rocks or pebbles is an ideal option for their tank. 

Filtration and Aeration

Since tinfoil barb needs a very large tank to stay healthy, the need for maintaining water quality is optimal for a healthy environment. 

I recommend installing canister filters to keep the water clean and free of nitrates and nitrites. Also, canister filters will help you maintain high levels of oxygenation and water flow, ideal for tinfoil barbs. 

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Additionally, tinfoil barbs are active swimmers and need a sufficient supply of oxygen. Therefore, the tank water should be well-oxygenated. I recommend getting an air stone or bubbler to help increase the surface area of water and provide more oxygen to the tank. 

Though canister filters also provide aeration while agitating the water surface. It’s still advisable to get air stones for adequate aeration. 

Aquarium Care

Tinfoil barbs are moderately easy to care for, especially when you keep their water clean. I recommend doing 25% to 50% water changes weekly or biweekly. Also, algae magnets should be placed to keep your tank free of algae.

Overall, if you have a community tank with tank decorations and live plants, perform water changes weekly. Otherwise, monthly water changes are essential to keep the water clean. 

Breeding

Tinfoil barb breeding is fairly difficult in captivity. Not because breeding is a challenging process, but because of their exceptionally large size.

Like all other fish from the Cyprinid family, Tinfoil barb lays eggs and scatters them in the tank. The female tinfoil barb lays around thousand eggs. However, they pose a serious threat to their eggs and might end up eating some. Therefore, it’s advisable to separate the breeding pair once the eggs are laid and fertilized. 

Though, there are no known cases of breeding tinfoil barbs in captivity. However, it would be a rewarding experience for aquarium hobbyists¹. 

First of all, start with a separate breeding tank with a bare-bottom tank with spawning mops or live plants, so you can easily find their eggs. After you’ve set up the tank with the required water conditions, it’s time to put the breeding pair in it. It’s advisable to put one male for every 2-3 females.

Tinfoil barb breed during the rainy season, so you can stimulate their breeding behavior by increasing the water flow in the breeding tank and lowering the water level. Also, low water temperatures are recommended. 

When the conditions meet their breeding requirements, the male tinfoil barb will follow the female and nudge their bellies to release the eggs. The eggs will later be fertilized by the male tinfoil barb. Since tinfoil barbs are known to eat their eggs, it’s better to separate them after fertilization and spawning. 

The eggs hatch in around 48 hours. And once they are hatched, the fry will feed on their egg sacs for 1 to 2 days. After a few days, you can feed them commercially available fry food or infusoria. Baby brine shrimp and mosquito larvae can also be given after a week. 

It’s important to maintain water quality to avoid diseases and other problems in the tank. 

Fish Diseases

Tinfoil barbs are hardy fish that may ditch many fish diseases. However, like every other fish, they can be prone to certain conditions due to poor water quality and parameters. 

Therefore, to avoid fish diseases, it’s important to maintain the water quality to promote a healthy ecosystem. 

Some of the common diseases your tinfoil barb may get due to lack of care are:

• Ich
• Fin rot
• Dropsy
• Velvet
• Columnaris 

All of the above diseases are either caused by parasites or bacteria or fungi that are usually found in unclean and unhygienic tank conditions. 

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Tinfoil barbs are beautiful, impressive creatures that are ideal for your spacious tanks. The tinfoil barb prefers large tank mates that are active swimmers and thrive in fast-moving waters. In the aquarium hobby, these fish species are known for their peaceful, schooling nature and difficulty in breeding. 

Therefore, if your only goal is to breed them; think again before buying tinfoil barbs. Otherwise, if you’re looking for some quirky addition to your home aquariums, tinfoil barbs are your best bet!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Bamboo Shrimp — also called wood shrimp or fan shrimp — are one of the more unique invertebrates you can add to a mature planted tank. Unlike cherry shrimp or amano shrimp that graze on surfaces, Bamboo Shrimp are filter feeders: they sit in current and fan fine particles from the water with their front legs. I keep shrimp in my planted setups and Bamboo Shrimp are the kind of addition that makes people stop and watch — the feeding behavior is genuinely fascinating. The key is having enough flow and suspended particles for them to feed on, which is why they do best in established tanks with active biology rather than brand new setups.

Species Overview

Introduction

Many hobbyists adore saltwater aquariums for their bright and colorful fish. But have you ever seen a freshwater tank filled with vibrant and active shrimp? The freshwater hobby is filled with different shrimp species that are easy and rewarding to keep.

One of the most popular species of freshwater shrimp to keep is the bamboo shrimp, also commonly known as the Singapore shrimp or wood shrimp. Scientifically, the bamboo shrimp is known as Atyopsis moluccensis. Unlike other popular species of freshwater shrimp, the bamboo shrimp is not a dwarf species in itself, though a dwarf relative has been discovered: Atyopsis spinipes¹.

Bamboo shrimp are great shrimp to keep in the freshwater aquarium. They get along with almost every fish, are relatively hardy, and help keep the tank clean. They aren’t the most colorful species of freshwater shrimp available, though, which can make some hobbyists look past them.

Origin

It might be hard to believe, but bamboo shrimp originate from areas where bamboo naturally grows. This is largely throughout Southeast Asia, including parts of Thailand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines.

There, these shrimp feed on plant and animal particles in the water column as well as in the substrate. Interestingly this is an Asian filter-feeding shrimp. This means that these shrimp have specially adapted claspers with a feathery, fan-like appearance. This allows them to stand in a moderate to strong water current with their fans pointed outwards to catch anything that passes by.

Because they’re filter feeders, they are found in a warm, fast-moving natural habitat that is full of debris and other organic material.

Appearance

Bamboo shrimp aka flower shrimp aren’t the most colorful shrimp. There’s a reason why they’re also known as wood shrimp.

Bamboo shrimp are one of the largest freshwater aquarium shrimp available, growing to about 2 to 4 inches. They are bulky shrimp with large, rounded bodies. As fan shrimp, they have two pairs of feathery arms that help them pull food particles out of the water.

These shrimp are typically brownish-red but can become darker or lighter depending on available food and other environmental factors. Upon closer inspection, you can see many thin, dark pinstripes run along the sides of their body. Down the middle of their body is a thick off-white stripe that runs from their antennae to the base of their tails.

Male vs. Female

Bamboo shrimp are pretty costly. Considering that they only live for a couple of years, it can be expensive to replace your colony so often. Because of this, many shrimp keepers try breeding bamboo shrimp, though we’ll find out that this is a challenge in itself.

To breed bamboo shrimp, you need to have a male and female individual. These shrimp are relatively easy to tell apart from each other, but only when they’re mature in size.

Like other shrimp and crustaceans, you need to look at the abdomen of the shrimp. Female shrimp carry eggs in and around their pleopods, or swimming legs, underneath their abdomen, so this area needs to be big.

In general, males are larger than females. Males also have bigger, thicker first walking legs. From above, male bamboo shrimp are slimmer and shorter than females. Females have wider and longer abdomens, as well as longer pleopods.

Temperament and Behavior

Bamboo shrimp are perfect tank mates for a community tank setup. Their larger size also makes them compatible with some of the bigger tropical fish species available as long as temperaments match.

Despite their large size, they can be shy with sudden movements and bright lights. It may take several weeks for a new shrimp to acclimate to its new home, so make sure to add plenty of hiding spots in the beginning.

In general, this fan shrimp can safely be kept with all community fish species. They spend most of their time propped up on plant leaves or other aquarium decorations in the water current with their fans extended. If your fan shrimp is traveling to the bottom of the tank to look for food in the substrate, then this could indicate that there isn’t enough available food in the water column.

While a healthy bamboo shrimp may still display this behavior, it’s strongly recommended to start offering more available foods that make feeding easier.

Bamboo Shrimp Tank Mates

Not too many hobbyists have a shrimp tank that only features bamboo shrimp. This shrimp species is often an afterthought to a community tank featuring other tropical fish and invertebrates. Luckily, they fit in with almost every tank mate combination!

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Bamboo shrimp are not territorial towards each other or other shrimp. That being said, there are a few limiting factors that can stop you from keeping multiple bamboo shrimp together.

First, space can become an issue. Not for the reason you may think, though. Instead, bamboo shrimp are very efficient filter feeders that can clean available food particles out of the water column within a few days. This can lead to a shortage of food when there is too much competition.

Second, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. Though they’re not aggressive, they can add additional bioload to the aquarium that can add up over time.

In general, as long as your shrimp are easily able to find food and have good filtration, then you can keep as many as you would like together.

Best Tank Mates For Them

But what other shrimp and fish can you keep with your bamboo shrimp? Almost everything!

The good news is that bamboo shrimp are large freshwater shrimp. Most tropical fish have small mouths, which takes bamboo shrimp off the menu. This makes bamboo shrimp a great choice for a betta tank, though you will need to create some areas of higher flow in the aquarium that your betta might not appreciate!

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These shrimp keep to themselves in the aquarium and won’t bother other peaceful fish. Because they usually perch on live plants and other decorations, they also stay out of the way of bottomfeeders and other active species. Some of the best tank mates for bamboo shrimp are:

• Tetras
• Rasboras
• Dwarf gouramis
• Livebearers

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Although large shrimp, bamboo shrimp are still an appetizing choice for fish with large mouths. Fish that should be avoid are:

• Cichlids (including angelfish)
• Goldfish
• Territorial aggressive fish

It should also be noted that bamboo shrimp should not be kept with crayfish, like the Mexican dwarf crayfish (Cambarellus patzcuarensis). Even though these two invertebrates might look similar to one another, the crayfish will gladly eat your shrimp.

Care

Bamboo shrimp care is easy, but there are a few ways you can guarantee the success of your shrimp. Keep in mind that these shrimp only live a couple of years on average, so you want to make the most of it! They are also much more expensive than other shrimp in the aquarium trade.

Tank Requirements

The best bamboo shrimp care will stem from a good aquarium setup. These shrimp need a mature aquarium where they can feed on the fine particles and microorganisms already present in the water column.

A new tank setup is too clean and will need to be heavily fed to sustain your shrimp.

Tank Size

You’ve most likely seen a small tank filled with cherry shrimp at your local fish store. Since bamboo shrimp are similar to other shrimp species, does this mean that they can be kept in a small tank too?

No. Bamboo shrimp prefer a larger tank setup for a few reasons.

First, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. While they don’t move around the tank much, they create significantly more bioload than small shrimp. They may also struggle to be present in the tank if there are too many other shrimp occupying the space.

Another reason why bamboo shrimp need a larger tank is that they heavily depend on their natural habitat for food. These shrimp need plenty of available food in the water column for their success. A small tank has much less available food, which can cause your shrimp to quickly run out of things to eat.

Consider how much natural food is available in your aquarium. Is there a constant supply of plant debris? How often do you feed your fish? Are your shrimp competing for the same food as other fish or invertebrates?

There are some questions you should be asking yourself before you introduce multiple bamboo shrimp into your aquarium. That being said, it’s recommended to keep 1 bamboo shrimp per every 20 gallons of water. This would mean that about 2 to 3 bamboo shrimp could comfortably be kept in a 55 gallon aquarium.

Setup

Aquarium setup doesn’t matter too much when keeping bamboo shrimp as they’ll find their niche within the system. However, there are a few ways you can optimize your shrimp’s way of living.

One of the most important aspects of keeping bamboo shrimp is making sure that there is some water current moving throughout the aquarium. These shrimp come from naturally fast-moving waters where they stand in the current to filter food. Some hobbyists use their filter return or a powerhead to create a stream of water current specifically for their shrimp.

A powerhead pairs well with a sponge filter. This combination allows for water flow as well as a bioload station for bamboo shrimp to pick at if they don’t feel like catching their food.

Otherwise, bamboo shrimp do not need any special aquarium setup. Some hobbyists prefer to dim their lighting or use tannins to create a more comfortable environment for these shy shrimp.

Decor

Bamboo shrimp do best in a heavily planted aquarium where there are plenty of organics available in the water. This can be a high or low tech setup with varying lighting intensities; as mentioned before, bamboo shrimp tend to be more present in dimmer lighting.

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These shrimp will appreciate natural decor in the form of driftwood, smooth rocks, and leaf litter. However, they can also be kept in more artificial setups as well.

Substrate

The type of substrate you keep your bamboo shrimp on doesn’t matter too much. These shrimp usually stay off the substrate, staying perched on driftwood and aquarium plants.

For the most natural tank setup, a light or dark brown substrate is recommended.

Live Plants

Bamboo shrimp will greatly appreciate an assortment of live plants. These shrimp will make their home in dense vegetation, catching any food that happens to pass by. Plant matter will also enter the water column, providing additional food for your shrimp.

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These do not need to be difficult plant species as the coverage will be appreciated nonetheless. Some of the best plant species include:

• Anubias spp.
• Cryptocoryne spp.
• Java fern (Leptochilus pteropus)
• Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
• Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana)

Keep in mind that a densely planted aquarium might require dosing plant fertilizers if not enough nutrients are readily available for growth.

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Water Quality And Filtration

Bamboo shrimp are relatively hardy shrimp but they still require mature tank conditions. Good filtration and water circulation are necessary for keeping a happy and healthy bamboo shrimp.

Filtration & Aeration

As mentioned before, bamboo shrimp will do best with a sponge filter in combination with a powerhead. This creates an area for grazing around the filter while also making a current that your shrimp can stand in.

For larger tanks, a hang on the back filter or canister filter is recommended for better filtration and water movement. A powerhead may still be necessary to create areas of higher flow for your shrimp.

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An air stone is not necessary, though can help circulate water and nutrients.

Water Parameters

Bamboo shrimp are sensitive to imperfect water parameters. They cannot tolerate any traces of ammonia or nitrite and start to have trouble when nitrates exceed 20 ppm. They can be kept in a wide water temperature range between 68 and 85° F but prefer relatively neutral pH levels between 6.5 and 8.0.

One of the more important water parameters to be aware of is calcium. Freshwater shrimp go through the molting process about every month and a half. This is when they shed their old exoskeleton to grow.

To grow a new shell, they need plenty of calcium available in the water. While this is usually brought in through water changes and diet, bamboo shrimp may be given special shrimp calcium blocks from time to time.

Aquarium Maintenance

Aquarium maintenance for bamboo shrimp is straightforward, especially in a mature tank where parameters are stable. In general, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly water change is recommended for a moderately stocked freshwater aquarium. Bamboo shrimp prefer slightly ‘dirtier’ conditions where food is available in the water column, so some hobbyists only do water changes every other week or once a month.

When performing a water change, make sure to use an aquarium vacuum to remove any rotting food or plant matter.

Testing Tank Conditions

To ensure that your tank is always running the best that it can, regularly test your aquarium water with a dependable test kit. This test kit should use liquid reagants as testing strips are highly inaccurate.

Calcium should also be tested with a test kit.

Food And Diet

While most shrimp can be maintained through only the leftover fish food in the aquarium, bamboo shrimp require some special care and attention when it comes to their food and diet.

Don’t worry, though! Bamboo shrimp feeding doesn’t require too much extra time.

If you notice that your shrimp is searching around sponge filters or wandering around the substrate, there might be a lack of food. At this point, it’s strongly recommended to supplement feedings.

Powdered food, crushed fish food, broken-up algae wafers, and small live food may be given daily.

Bamboo shrimp will not fix an algae problem, meaning that they won’t graze on available algae. Instead, they’ll help purify the water of any microscopic waste or organisms that could lead to an algae bloom.

Breeding

Breeding bamboo shrimp is rarely done in the aquarium hobby. Like Amano shrimp, bamboo shrimp need brackish water during their larval stages.

To go about breeding bamboo shrimp, you need a male and a female. Once successfully bred, the fertilized eggs must be gently detached from the female and moved to brackish water conditions. From there, the fry may be fed spirulina powder until they mature.

Where To Buy

Bamboo shrimp are pretty expensive. Their sensitivity to stresses during transportation also makes them slightly difficult to come across at your average pet store. Because they’re difficult to breed in captivity, they also can’t be sourced from fellow hobbyists.

Instead, these shrimp can be purchased online or from more specialized retailers.

Conclusion

In conclusion, bamboo shrimp are one of the more forgotten species of shrimp available. These are filter feeding shrimp that need a good source of food in a mature aquarium setup. They are slightly sensitive to changes in environment and water conditions and have short lifespans.

Still, they’re great invertebrates to have for controlling excess waste and potential algae blooms!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

German Blue Rams are one of the most beautiful dwarf cichlids in the freshwater hobby — the coloration on a healthy, well-kept pair is genuinely stunning. I’ll be straight with you though: they’re not beginner fish, and the “easy” label they sometimes get does people a disservice. GBRs are extremely sensitive to water quality, need warm temperatures in the 82-86°F range, and prefer soft, slightly acidic water. The parameter matching issue I always warn about hits especially hard with this species. If your tank isn’t dialed in and stable, they’ll show it fast. If you want that dwarf cichlid personality with more forgiveness built in, start with a Bolivian Ram. If you’re ready for GBRs, this guide covers exactly what they need.

Therefore, in this article, I’m going to talk everything about German blue ram fish and how to keep them happy, thriving, and alive in the aquarium hobby. 

Stick with me!

Species Overview

Brief Introduction

The German Blue Ram or Mikrogeophagus ramirezi goes by many names including, German Ram, Electric Blue Rams, Butterfly Cichlid, Golden Ram, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Ramirezi, Ram cichlid, and Ram. The German blue rams are named after Manuel Ramirez¹—one of the first collectors and importers of Ram cichlids in the aquarium trade.

German blue ram is a peaceful fish that can easily be kept in community tanks, even with non-cichlid fish species with a similar temperament. For the record, these fish do not do well in an aggressive fish tank. 

Origin & Habitat

Opposed to their name, the German blue rams originated from the Orinoco River basin in Venezuela and Colombia. The reason they are called “German Blue” rams is that the blue variation of Ram cichlids was selectively bred in Germany and became popular from there. 

Appearance

The electric blue ram is a small, colorful fish with pointed fins and a tail. Their bodies are oval and the males develop more pointed dorsal fins than female German blue rams. 

Starting at their nose, there is a yellow coloration on their body that changes from whitish blue to blue in color. A black curved line runs from their forehead, through their eyes, and reaches down to the chin. Also, the middle part of the body is adorned with a black spot. They have pointed fins that are clear yellow in color with a black blotch. Female Electric blue rams have pinkish-red or orange bellies.

Like all other cichlids, the German blue rams have a full set of pharyngeal teeth located in their throat. They also have spiny rays in their anal, pelvic, pectoral, and dorsal fin to ward off their predators. The front area of their fins is soft, allowing them to move precisely and effortlessly. 

Unlike other fish, German blue rams have one nostril on each side of the nose. So, they sense smells in water by sucking in water and expelling it right after it’s sampled.

Food & Diet

In their natural habitat, wild German blue rams feed on plant materials and small invertebrates. However, in captivity, they feed on a varied diet, including brine shrimp, bloodworms, white worms, chopped earthworms, cyclopeeze, live mosquito larvae, and artemia. You can also feed them flake food and pellets as occasional treats. 

Temperament and Behavior

Fish owners love German blue rams for their ever pleasing nature and beautiful aesthetics. And rightfully so, German blue rams thrive in community tanks even with their non-cichlid mates. However, they may seem aggressive; they are more “bark than bite”. 

You can keep them alone, but it is recommended to keep them in pairs and avoid putting two males in an aquarium until your tank is exceptionally large.

German Blue Ram Tank Mates

Here are some great tank mates for a German blue ram cichlid tank:

• Silver Dollar
• Dwarf Gouramis
• Discus fish
• Dwarf Rainbowfish
• Synodontis catfish
• Plecostomus
• Black Phantom Tetra
• Glowlight tetra
• Cardinal Tetra
• Neon Tetra
• Corydoras
• Rummynose Tetras
• Kuhli loaches
• Mollies
• Guppies
• Clown Loaches
• Platies

Complete Care Guide

No matter how low maintenance German blue rams are, the key to keeping your fish happy lies in the water quality. German blue ram cichlids are prone to rapid breathing and illness due to mismatched water chemistry and quality. Therefore, meeting their tank requirements and maintaining the water quality is essential for the survival of German blue rams.

Tank Requirements

Here’s a complete breakdown of ideal tank requirements for the German blue ram cichlids.

Tank Size

Since they are small community aquarium fish, the recommended tank size is around 15 gallons.

Live Plants

Keeping live plants in a German blue ram aquarium sounds daunting because most aquatic plants cannot tolerate the warm water temperature. Therefore, it is essential to get plants that can survive the hot water. 

Also, German blue rams love digging and so, they might hurt your aquatic plants. To cater to this, I suggest keeping plants like Java Ferns and mosses. You can also add floating plants, especially to the breeding tank to diffuse the lighting. Some great examples of live plants are:

1. Java Fern
2. Rosette plants (Amazon Sword, Vallisneria, Wisteria)
3. Mosses
4. Anubias
5. Cryptocoryne
6. Water sprite

Make sure to leave free swimming space while placing plants in their aquarium and install a proper filtration system for their successful survival. 

Tank Decorations

German blue Rams love a well decorated tank. And even though they thrive in a community aquarium, sometimes, they might need to find a safe, comfortable place to hide. Therefore, aquarium decorations should be provided with caution.

You can equip their tank with driftwood, flowerpots, dense plant clusters, caves, and rocks to mimic their natural habitat and keep them happy.

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Make sure all the decorations are the aquarium and fish-friendly with no sharp edges to create a healthy and stimulating environment.

Substrate

A substrate of fine sand mixed with gravel and granite pebbles works best for a German blue ram tank. That’s because sand mixed with gravel allows your fish to sift through it, which is a natural behavior for them in the wild.

Additionally, you can go for plant substrate or bare bottom as per your preferences and tank requirements.

Note: Make sure your substrate does not leech into the water and change the pH. Avoid using sand for marine tanks

Filtration and Aeration

Maintaining Oxygen levels and water quality leads to a happy, healthy tank with a thriving German blue ram. 

German blue ram, like any other fish loves a clean and clear environment with low nitrates, ammonia, and zero nitrites. Therefore, a filter that can handle all these toxins and the size of your aquarium is much needed. 

I recommend getting a canister filter for a larger tank. However, for a 10-gallon tank, a hang-on filter works wonders. I also suggest installing a filter with a biological filtration system to break down harmful chemicals and waste substances in the water effortlessly.

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For aeration, it is recommended to provide an air stone or bubble wand to create the flow of bubbles. To save yourself money and time, you can get a filter integrated with an air pump to help aerate the water besides filtering. 

Water Parameters

The ideal water parameters for German blue Ram are:

• Recommended temperature range: 78.0 to 85.0° F 
• Breeding Temperature:– 77 – 82.4° F 
• Ideal pH range: 6.0-7.5
• Water Hardness Range:6 – 14 dGH

Aquarium Care

I recommend performing water changes of 10% to 20% at least biweekly, depending on the number of fish and tank size. German blue ram is super sensitive to certain chemicals and changes in their environment to the point of their sudden demise. 

Also, they are prone to fish tuberculosis or Piscine. Therefore, aquarium maintenance is the key to keeping them healthy and happy. I also advise cleaning and sanitizing their tank decorations and other stuff with a sponge. It is also recommended to vacuum the substrate to remove the waste and all the food.

Breeding

Before setting up a breeding tank, it is important to know that the German blue ram is an open spawner; i.e., the wild German blue rams form a family group and lay around 200 eggs in their natural habitat.

Therefore, in captivity, start with 6 juveniles and let them bond. After they have bonded successfully, move the breeding pair to their own respective tanks.

Requirements for a breeding tank

1. The ideal water temperature for a breeding tank is around 77 – 82.4° F. They prefer slightly acidic and soft water.
2. Provide quiet areas for them as they are usually nervous and may end up eating their own eggs if stressed, Also, provide lots of hiding places such as caves and plants, especially wide leaves to spawn on. 
3. It is recommended to tape the sides of your tank with a taping paper to alleviate stress.

The breeding process

Before spawning, the breeding pair usually spend lots of time cleaning the top of pebbles. After they are comfortable and spawned, the female German blue ram lays around 200 eggs and the male ram cichlid fertilizes them externally. Once they have successfully spawned, you will notice the colors of the pair have intensified drastically. 

After 60 hours, the eggs hatch, and just after a few days, the fry will be swimming freely.

Note: German blue ram are known to eat their own fry after hatching, thus, you may put the young ones into a separate tank

Once the fry is free swimming, the male ram takes them into its mouth to clean and then spits them out.

After the yolk sac has disappeared, you can feed the fry micro worm or infusoria. You can also feed them newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

Always remember to maintain the water quality while feeding the fry. It is recommended to perform 10% water changes every day. 

Fish Diseases

Despite being hardy fish, the German blue ram is vulnerable to poor water quality and oxygenation. Hence, resulting in several fish diseases.

One of the most common problems is Ich, which is caused by parasitic infestations from protozoa or worms. Other common diseases include:

1. Costia disease
2. Flatworms
3. Cestoda or tapeworm infestations
4. Bacterial infections and diseases
5. Fish tuberculosis
6. Skin flukes

FAQs

Final Thoughts

German blue rams or electric blue rams are beautiful freshwater fish with a peaceful temperament. However, they are not beginner friendly and may require some exceptional care in pristine water conditions. 

If not taken care of properly, the fish might show signs of stress and illness, eventually leading to their death. Therefore, proper tank maintenance and tank setup should be exercised to avoid accidents. 

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

I’ve kept a lot of different crabs over the years — red claws, vampires, fiddler crabs — and one thing I’ll tell you right upfront is that the “freshwater crab” label is misleading for a lot of species you’ll find at the fish store. Many of them are actually brackish water animals that technically survive in freshwater but don’t truly thrive long-term. Knowing that distinction before you buy will save you a lot of frustration and some dead crabs.

That said, there are some genuinely great options that work well in freshwater setups, and others that make amazing paludarium inhabitants. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are the species worth keeping — with honest notes on what the care labels don’t always tell you.

In this article I’m talking about freshwater crab, crabs that are thousands of times smaller than any salt water crab you’ve seen, or eaten. And while some people in various parts of the world do actually eat these freshwater crabs as well, more and more they’re finding their way into the aquarium hobby trade.

Top 15 Freshwater Crabs

Let’s start off our list with a video from our YouTube channel. We will break down both aquatic and territerisal crabs that you can keep in an aquarium. We will include important states like tank size, scientific name, average size, and lifespan for each crab species. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos that we release each week. Let’s get started!

1. Vampire (Geosesarma dennerle)

• Family: Sesarmidae
• Origin: Indonesian island of Java
• Scientific Name: Geosesarma dennerle
• Common Name: Vampire Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 1.5 inches (3.8 cm)
• Lifespan: 2-3 years in captivity
• Tank Size: 10-gallons
• Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
• Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
• Tank kH: 10-25 dKH

The vampire crab is a semi terrestrial species meaning your tank will need to include a dry spot for them to roam and forage on since these type of crab can actually drown if they don’t have a dry area. A 2/3 land to 1/3 water is a good ratio and they only require freshwater. Sand or fine non-sharp pebbles makes the best substrate with a few mossy areas for them to poke around in.

Their carapace (shell width) is only about an inch wide and with their legs they rarely grow to to two inches fully grown. These beautiful crabs boast striking coloration that includes deep reds, purples and blues and are a recent addition to the aquarium trade. Most of the 50 plus species also have bright yellow eyes and paired with their coloration so it’s easy to see why they’re called vampire crabs.

But don’t let their name fool you, vampire crabs are a delight to keep and form social groups if you include a few of them, although they are not very active. A 10 gallon tank is adequate for 5 to 6 of them and they’re opportunistic feeders, so they’ll eat about anything including any plants you have.

For a different colored variation of the Vampire crab, check out the closely related bright orange Red devil crab (Geosesarma Hagen).

2. Thai Micro (Limnopilos naiyanetri)

• Family: Hymenosomatidae
• Origin: Thailand – only one river is known to have these, Tha Chin River
• Scientific Name: Limnopilos naiyanetri
• Common Name: Thai Micro Crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri, Pill-box crab, False Spider crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: About 1 centimeter (0.4 inches)
• Lifespan Captivity: Up to 2 years
• Tank Size: 5-gallon tank or larger
• Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
• Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
• Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

Thai Micro crabs is just that, Micro! These tiny crab only get up to a half inch wide and have a subdued transparent grey-silver color and long ‘spider’ like legs giving them the nickname False Spider Crabs.

Thai Micro Crabs live in the roots of the water plant hyacinth so try to replicate this environment as much as possible. Unlike most crab species, you want a lot of plants in your tank as they like to hide and rummage through the plants looking for bits of food and won’t dig them up or cause major damage to them.

These micro crabs are better left in a single community tank as these tiny crabs are so small almost anything else you would keep with them would end up eating them! They’re pretty defenseless and they mostly like to just leisurely hang around on driftwood and plants catching small food particles with the tiny hairs that cover their carapace and legs.

3. Red Claw (Perisesarma bidens)

• Family: Grapsidae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific region
• Scientific Name: Perisesarma bidens
• Common Name: Red Claw Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) carapace width, 4 inches (about 10 cm) overall
• Lifespan: Up to 2-3 years
• Tank Size: 10 gallons or 20 gallons for a pair
• Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
• Tank pH: 7.5 to 8.5
• Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

The first thing to know about these crabs is they are brackish water crabs and not freshwater crabs. Left with only freshwater, they’ll die in less than 6 months since they have gills that are accustomed to breathing in brackish water, so pay attention to your water quality if you want a healthy red claw crab!

Their defining feature is their brightly colored red claws, hence their name. The Red Claw Crab has two protruding black eyes positioned at the front of its head and range in color from dark green to brownish-red.

They will do well in a properly aquascaped paludarium with at least 70% brackish water and 30% land area. Sand is the best substrate as these crabs love to dig and burrow and are adept to sandy conditions. Hardscaping is important in order to give red claws a place to hide and molt. Driftwood and rocks are best as they can’t readily destroy them as they can your plants.

4. Panther (Parathelphusa pantherina)

• Family: Sesarmidae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific island of Sulawesi
• Scientific Name: Parathelphusa pantherina
• Common Name: Panther Crab, Leopard Crabs
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm)
• Lifespan Captivity: 5 to 10
• Tank Size: Minimum 10 gallons
• Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
• Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
• Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

Panther Crabs are freshwater aquarium crabs that get their name from their unique black spotting on their light yellow and orange bodies. These fully aquatic crab can grow up to three inches and are easy crabs to take care of, but are semi-aggressive and may not do well with other tank mates.

In fact, it’s best to keep just one crab in a 20 gallon tank or larger. Line your tank with sand and give your crab plenty of rocks, driftwood and other hardscapes so there are plenty of place for one to search and hide when it needs to. But be weary of plants as Panther’s will dig them up and eat them.

Like most crabs, they are omnivores and appreciate a variety of foods like larvae, small shrimp and even decaying plant matter or blanched vegetables. They primarily feed and roam at night scavenging for food and eating anything they can grab. Lancetfish and unshelled shrimp are particularly great foods as they contain a lot of the calcium needed for Panther crabs to molt successfully.

5. Pom Pom (Ptychognathus barbatus)

• Family: Pinnotheridae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific region
• Scientific Name: Lybia tessellata
• Common Name: Pom Pom Crab
• Diet: Carnivorous
• Size: About 1 inch (2.5 cm)
• Lifespan: Up to 1 year
• Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 72-78 °F (22-26 °C)
• Tank pH: 7.0 – 7.2
• Tank kH: 2-6 dKH

The Pom Pom crab (video source) is a newer addition to the hobby and gets it’s name from the hairy tufts on its pincers that really do resemble little pom poms. These freshwater pom crabs are small and rarely get larger than an inch. They have a lightish tan or brown body with speckles or patches of darker browns with some oranges mixed in.

Pom crabs are very peaceful and are true aquatic freshwater aquarium crabs and can easily live in a community fish tank with similarly sized fish or small non-aggressive fish that won’t eat them. Be sure to use sand as a substrate with plenty of small stones and some driftwood for them to hide in and search for food.

The freshwater pom is an active scavenger and will eat almost anything including algae and detritus in your tank. They should be fed a varied diet that leans more towards plant materials like leafy greens as well as some protein like bloodworms and brine shrimp.

And be sure to keep a lid on any tank you have these in as they’re expert climbers and can make their way out of even the smallest holes. Sadly the pom pom crab has one of the shortest lifespans of any of the crabs on our list, lasting no more than a year in captivity.

6. Towuti (Parathelphusa ferruginea)

• Family: Parathelphusidae
• Origin: Lake Towuti, Sulawesi Island, Indonesia
• Scientific Name: Sundathelphusa towutensis
• Common Name: Towuti Crab, Rusty Brown Sulawesi Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous – prefer live food
• Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Lifespan: Unknown, but estimated to be 2-3 years in captivity
• Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
• Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
• Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

Towuti crabs are small 2 inch (5 cm) crabs that hail from one island in Indonesia, Sulawesi, and live in lakes and tributaries making them true fully aquatic species fit for any aquarium. Just make sure it has a lid as they’re active even in the day and expert escape artists.

The Towuti are aggressive and highly skilled hunters, so no community tanks for these guys. They will eat small fish, shrimp and anything they can get their claws on. They prefer live fish and shrimp over plant material, but adding fall leaves (dying or dead organic matter) or algae wafers gives them a feeling of home and the extra plant material these omnivores need.

7. Red Devil (Geosesarma hagen)

• Family: Sesarmidae
• Origin: Indonesia
• Scientific Name: Geosesarma hagen
• Common Name: Red Devil Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in carapace width
• Lifespan: 1-2 years
• Tank Size: At least 5 gallons for a pair or trio, with plenty of hiding places and climbing structures.
• Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
• Tank pH: 7.0-8.0
• Tank kH: 2-5 dKH

The Red Devil Crab (video source) has to be the meanest looking crab out of all of them. I mean, it just looks like a devil with its dark legs, bright red body and pincers and piercing yellow eyes starring at you. It’s definitely colorful.

They’re semi-terrestrial and do best in freshwater paludariums and share the same home as the Geosesarma Dennerle (Vampire crabs) in Indonesia. And although they may look really mean, they actually are not aggressive and like having the company of a few of their own species.

These smaller crabs measure around 2-3 inches (5 – 7 cm) full grown and only live to about a year and a half. They are nocturnal and like to hide from light in the day time under rocks, wood and vegetation. And they’re really skillful hunters.

Red Devils enjoy hunting live foods like small slow fish, brine shrimp and anything it can get it’s claws on, but still need some detritus and dying plant matter as they’re omnivores.

8. Thai Devil (Cardisoma carnifex)

• Family: Cardisomidae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific region
• Scientific Name: Cardisoma carnifex
• Common Name: Thai Devil Crab, Black Land Crab, Giant Land Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: Up to 18 cm (7 inches) carapace width
• Lifespan: Up to 10 years
• Tank Size: Not suitable for aquariums
• Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)

The Thai Red Devil crab (video source), not to be confused with the Red Devil Crab (Geosesarma hagen), is one of the largest terrestrial crabs growing up to 6 – 8 inches (about 15 – 20 cm) including its legs and is definitely not for the inexperienced hobbyist.

Not the most colorful crab with its maroon to brownish-grey or greyish-blue body and legs, Thai Devil Crabs do live up to 8 years although most of the time will be spent in their deep burrows, some of which can be as deep as seven feet.

Due to the way a Thai Devil Crab breathes, they need a lot of humidity as their lungs pull oxen from the water vapor, not the air. They are also aggressive and like to live on their own so you’ll need to keep them in a single species tank.

9. Matano (Syntripsa Matannensis)

• Family: Gecarcinucidae
• Origin: Lake Matano, Sulawesi, Indonesia
• Scientific Name: Geosesarma notophorum
• Common Name: Matano Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Lifespan: 2-3 years
• Tank Size: 20 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 72-82 °F (22-28 °C)
• Tank pH: 6.5-7.5

Matano Crabs (video source) are aquatic creatures that can also come onto dry land if available. They’re a beautiful deep purple color including their purple carapace and have white pigmented joints.

The Matano crab is aggressive with same species crabs and it’s best not to keep more than one male in a tank. Male crabs will definitely fight, sometimes to the death.

These nocturnal crabs grow to between 3 – 5 inches (7 – 12 cm) and live around 3 years in captivity. Due to their larger size it’s best to keep a male and one or two females in a 20 gallon tank or larger. They’ll also eat slow swimming fish so don’t keep them in a community set up.

They actually come from the same lake in Indonesia as the Panther crab (parathelpusaa pantherina), although you shouldn’t keep them in the same tank. Like Panthers, a sand substrate is best with some gravel plus nooks and crannies to keep them occupied.

Matano Crabs are omnivorous scavengers and will eat practically anything but like many freshwater crabs, a variety of different foods is best.

10. Fiddler (Ocypodidae)

• Family: Ocypodidae
• Origin: Coastal regions worldwide
• Scientific Name: Uca spp.
• Common Name: Fiddler Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
• Lifespan: 2-3 years
• Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
• Tank pH: 7.2-8.2
• Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

There are more than 100 of these semi-terrestrial crab species and each has it’s own color variation and unique attributes which makes these little crabs ideal for beginner crab owners.

The best environment to house them is a slightly brackish paludarium with at least 10 – 20 cm (4 – 8 inches) of sand for substrate so they can create little tunnels and burrow.

Fiddler Crabs will return to their burrows often and males will fight for the best burrow spots in your tank, so make sure there is plenty of room if you plan to keep more than one male.

These fascinating invertebrates come in a variety of colors and the options are endless. The most striking feature is of course the large claw or pincer that they’re named for, which is only on the males and is used for fighting and during mating.

Fiddler crabs are relatively small, barely growing to two inches including their leg span making them ideal for smaller aquarium set ups. A fiddler crab can live up to 3 years and are easy to care for and feed.

11. Hermit (Coenobita variabilis)

• Family: Coenobitidae
• Origin: Coastal regions of the Indo-Pacific
• Scientific Name: Coenobita variabilis
• Common Name: Hermit Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: Average species is 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)
• Lifespan: 5-30 years
• Tank Size: Minimum 5 gallons
• Temperature: 26-30°C  (~80°F-85°F)
• Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
• Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

Hermit Crabs are terrestrial and most likely the first pet crabs crab owners get as they are so easy to find and inexpensive compared to most other pets. And there are hundreds of sub-species that range from an inch or less in size to the coconut hermit that gets a whopping 40 inches from leg tip to tip.

Their colors and life spans are just as varied and some can live up to 30 years!

What makes Hermits very different is they don’t have a hard exoskeleton like other crabs which is why they must find a shell to protect themselves, or they’re easily prayed upon. As they get bigger they must find a new shell discarding the old.

Hermits are also different in that they have modified lungs and breath from water vapor rather than water or air. This means to keep them you must have a tank humidity of 75% or more. No an easy thing for a beginner, so these are not really an easy crab to keep.

You should also use sand as a substrate that is always moist with brackish water and has a depth of at least four inches for a happy crab to burrow. And plenty of different sized shells for them to grow into!

12. Tanganyika (Parathelphusidae sp.)

• Family: Parathelphusidae
• Origin: East Africa, specifically Lake Tanganyika
• Scientific Name: Neolamprologus multifasciatus
• Common Name: Tanganyika crabs
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 2-4 cm (0.8-1.6 inches)
• Lifespan: Up to 4 years
• Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 75-82°F (24-28°C)
• Tank pH: 7.0-8.5
• Tank kH: 6-10 dKH

Tanganyika Crabs include nine known species all deriving from Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. These are one of the rarest species and little research has been done on them. So if you are able to secure one of these, consider yourself lucky.

The species ranges from one to two inches in size and all are some sort of light brown and tan in color. Honestly a bit unremarkable.

They are true aquatic crabs and don’t need any dry land to thrive. They prefer a sand substrate and pebbles and don’t borrow like other crabs. They do, however need places to hide so include some rocks and driftwood in your tank.

And forget about plants as these little aquarium crabs will shred and eat anything and are opportunistic scavengers in their natural habitat.

13. Marble Batik (Metasesarma obesum)

• Family: Sesarmidae
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Scientific Name: Metasesarma obesum
• Common Name: Marble Batik Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 2-3 cm (0.8-1.2 inches)
• Lifespan: 2-3 years
• Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
• Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
• Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
• Tank kH: 2-8 dKH

The Marble Batik Crab is another land or terrestrial crab that is actually quite rare in the aquarium hobby world. They’re small and only grow to less than two inches and live for up to 3 years.

They’re easy to keep and don’t require much water, although if you have the space a freshwater and a saltwater bowl with marine salt are optimal. But you can just keep them in a 5 gallon tank with a freshwater bowl if necessary.

Like most land crab, Marble Batiks like to burrow and require a minimum 2 inch substrate of sand and small pebbles. They love to explore and you should provide them with plenty of places to do so using rocks and driftwood. Plants are also good.

Like most land crabs, they are easy enough to keep provided you’re able to keep the humidity at 75% or more as they breath through water vapor and not through water or air.

14. Red Apple (Metasesarma aubryi) aka Chameleon

• Family: Grapsidae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific region
• Scientific Name: Pugettia producta
• Common Name: Red Apple Crab, Chameleon Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm)
• Lifespan: 3-6 years
• Tank Size: 10 gallons
• Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
• Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
• Tank kH: 4-10 dKH

Red Apple crabs as a species are terrestrial crabs that grow to be about 7 – 10 cm (3 – 4 inches) in total size and live to anywhere between 3 to 6 years old. Since they are terrestrial, all they really need is a freshwater bowl in a landscaped aquarium, although a paludarium setup works best.

These are really hardy and easy to care for making them very beginner friendly pets. They’re colorful with dark legs and bodies that have red and orange claws and bright yellow eyes making them attractive pets to keep. They are also called Chameleon crabs because their colors can change according to their moods.

Red Apples are social and you should include a minimum of 2 to 3 crabs in your tank.

15. Rainbow (Cardisoma armatum)

• Family: Grapsidae
• Origin: Indo-Pacific region
• Scientific Name: Cardisoma armatum
• Common Name: Rainbow Crab, African Rainbow Crab, Nigerian Moon Crab, Patriot Crab, Rainbow Land Crab
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Size: up to 5 inches (12.7 cm)
• Lifespan: up to 3-5 years
• Tank Size: Minimum 20-30 gallons for one crab
• Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
• Tank pH: 7.5-8.5.
• Tank kH: 8-15 dKH

Rainbow Crabs (video source) are a semi-aquatic and aren’t the easiest crab to keep as they need a relatively high humidity level in their tank, up to 80%, as they have special gills that breath from humidity and not the water or air like most other crabs. They also need a place to completely dry off and need 5-10% brackish water to do their best.

These brightly colored brackish crabs prefer to spend most of their time buried in burrows they make in the sand substrate of your tank. So make sure you have at least 6 inches of sand on the bottom so they can dig away. Also include things to keep them busy like driftwood and rocks that create little caves and crevices for them to explore.

These are very aggressive crabs with sharp pincers and should be kept alone as they will literally fight with their own species to the death. They can grow from 6 to 8 inches which makes them one of the largest crab on our list, and one requiring a large tank of at least 20 gallons for a single rainbow land crab, 40 or more for more than one rainbow land crab.

These brackish crabs omnivorous and love to scavenge at night for foods like crab pellets and algae wafers when they’re most active. During the day they are usually sleeping in the burrows they’ll make in your substrate.

Tank Mates For Freshwater Aquarium Crabs – And Which to Avoid!

When it comes to what makes good tank mates for crabs, it really depends on the species of crab and their preferences. As a general rule, most land crabs do not do well with other crabs, especially male to male. Some will fight to the death. And others will fight with other species of crab. You really need to research each individual species to know.

Another general guideline is never include small slow moving fish as most crabs are hunters as well as scavengers and will eat whatever they can catch. And similarly, larger aggressive fish will usually make a meal of your crabs. So again, it’s really important to look at each individual species’ requirements.

Some other bad tank mates are shrimp, crayfish and any small slow creature that can easily become a meal. Most crab are predators, and all of them are omnivores which means they eat meat. So expect them to dine on whatever is in the tank and they can catch and you should be safe.

One note, just because your crab can’t catch the fish in your community tank doesn’t mean it is okay. Fish know a predator is around and this can really stress them out. So usually it’s best to just keep crab by themselves.

In Closing

Keeping freshwater crabs is just one more exciting way to diversify your aquarium with something new and super interesting. And no matter what type of aquarium set up you have, there’s a species that matches, from terrestrial, semi-terrestrial and even completely aquatic species, these crabs offers something for everyone.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Freshwater angelfish have been one of my favorite fish since early in my fishkeeping career — they’re genuinely impressive in a tall planted tank and bring a level of presence most community fish can’t match. I’ve kept them in my 65-gallon community setup and learned firsthand how their personality changes as they mature. Here’s what I’d want anyone to know before buying a pair.

Freshwater angelfish are one of the most recognizable fish in the hobby — and one of the most misunderstood. People buy them as juveniles thinking they’re peaceful community fish, then are surprised when a 6-inch adult starts eating neon tetras and bullying everything in the tank. I’ve kept angelfish for years and they’re genuinely wonderful fish, but they need the right setup and the right tank mates. This care guide covers what actually matters from my experience, not just the textbook requirements.

Species Overview

Brief Introduction

Freshwater angelfish remain one of the most popular fish available in the aquarium hobby. These fish have been around for decades and still hold the hearts of hobbyists everywhere. Check our our video from our YouTube Channel. We have more details in our blog post so you can follow along to both!

Now more than ever, dozens of angelfish varieties featuring every color and pattern are readily available. Their easy care requirements on top of their simple breeding, make angelfish one of the best feature fish you can have in your freshwater tank.

There are a few considerations that come along with owning angelfish, though. These fish, scientifically known as Pterophyllum scalare, actually belong to the cichlid family. If you know anything about freshwater fish, then some red flags might be going off in your head. Cichlids are aggressive, right?

Yes, freshwater cichlids are known for being aggressive. However, angelfish are one of the most peaceful cichlid species for the home aquarium. They are often kept with community tank species but can also be kept with other semi-aggressive cichlids. This leaves a lot of possibilities for tank mates and tank setups!

It should be noted that two other species of angelfish are sometimes seen in the aquarium hobby: P altum (Known as Altum Angelfish) and P leopoldi. For this article, we will only focus on P scalare.

Origin and Habitat

Angelfish originate from the Amazon River basin throughout the northern regions of tropical South America. More specifically, they can be found in Colombia, French Guiana, Peru, Brazil, and Guyana.

These fish are found in slow-moving waters filled with vegetation. Water is soft and stained from tannins due to organic matter that falls from the jungle canopy above.

Today, most aquarium angelfish are bred in captivity. As we’ll see, they are easy to breed and acclimate well to aquarium conditions. This makes transporting them to your own aquarium much easier, with less risk of introducing disease and parasites from wild-caught individuals.

Appearance

What’s angelic about a fish? We’ll tell you.

Angelfish are unlike any other fish available. They have compact yet tall bodies with trailing fins. These long pelvic fins are sometimes known as feelers as they can be seen extended forwards and sideways to interpret their surroundings better. With their fins and slow, graceful movements, they effortlessly float from one side of the tank to the other. Some species naturally have red eyes and they make excellent centerpiece fish.

On top of their ornate appearance, angelfish also come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some of the most common color variation options:

• Koi angelfish. Named after their resemblance to the coldwater species, koi angelfish feature mottled variations of white, yellow/orange, and black.
• Marble angelfish. There are a few variations of angelfish within the marble category, including veil tail varieties. These fish often feature black and silver marbling with long, uneven streaks of color. The black marbling varies from fish to fish.
• Zebra angelfish. Zebra angelfish are similar to their wild-type variations but have much broader and more even alternating silver and black stripes.
• Silver angelfish. These angels are thought to be the most natural variety, with a silver body and random, thin vertical black stripes.
• Black lace angelfish – pictured above. This fish offers a silver body with black strips and the trademark red eye
• Gold angelfish – A light sliver and orange to gold color near the face. You will also see gold marble varieties that will offer black marks across the body and fins
• Veil angelfish – These fish have long upper and lower fins that make them appear taller in the aquarium. They do best in tall planted tanks.

Lifespan

On top of their size, angelfish can live for considerably longer times. Freshwater angelfish can live to be over a decade old, sometimes surpassing 12 years of age!

This long lifespan is important to keep in mind as they are a long-term commitment. On top of their large size and volatile temperament, angelfish should never be an impulse buy.

Food and Diet

To get the best fins and colors out of your angelfish, you want to provide the best food and diet possible. These are large centerpiece fish, but they have small mouths and aren’t overly ambitious when it comes to feeding times. This means that feeding angelfish requires some special attention.

Angelfish tend to eat at the surface of the water. They may chase after some sinking food, but they prefer a high-quality pellet or flake food that can easily fit in their mouth. It should also be noted that they’re not overly ambitious eaters, and prefer to eat at a relaxed pace. If the other tank mates in the aquarium are overly active, then it might be necessary to offer both floating and sinking foods for better distribution.

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Otherwise, freshwater angelfish will appreciate a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and mosquito larvae. As omnivores, they can be offered a variety of blanched vegetables as well, including cucumber and lettuce. These vegetables can be clipped to the side of the aquarium to prevent your angel from dragging its fins across the bottom of the tank.

Temperament and Behavior

Angelfish are largely peaceful fish. Many hobbyists keep them without ever having a problem with other fish. Now and again, a hobbyist will experience an overly aggressive angelfish, which taints the name of the species altogether.

It is true that angelfish can be semi-aggressive. Caution should be taken when keeping angels, especially larger individuals, with slow or small fish. When buying angelfish, try to go for juveniles. Sadly, there is probably a reason why a large angelfish has been returned to the store, often caused by over-aggression.

Otherwise, angelfish are very docile. They can be seen floating at the top and in the middle of the water column without hardly moving their fins. They may swim at all levels of the aquarium, but they especially like hanging out by the surface, waiting for food.

Best Tank Mates

While often sold as a community fish, angels need some careful tank mate planning. In general, angelfish can be kept with most community tank species as long as they aren’t fin nippers or overly active.

It is important to keep in mind that a juvenile angelfish will grow. Just because they can be safely kept with certain species while small does not mean that those same tank mates will be compatible in the future. Because of this, it’s best to plan your community aquarium for long-term success.

Here are some of the best community angelfish tank mates:

• Corydoras
• Plecos
• Dwarf gourami
• Boesemani rainbowfish
• Livebearers
• Certain tetras (Cardinal tetras, Rummynose tetras)
• African Butterfly Fish

As a cichlid, angelfish can also be kept in freshwater aquariums that feature peaceful cichlids. Here are some of the recommended species:

• Severum
• Electric blue acara
• Kribensis

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

Adult angelfish have been known to be aggressive towards one another. But there’s no denying how incredible these fish look together in planted community tanks!

These fish are best kept in pairs as male and female in the long term. In larger tanks, small groups of 5 or more may be kept as long as fish are added together at the same time while still juveniles. It’s also strongly recommended to only keep female angelfish together to prevent harassment, though this can be difficult as there are minuscule differences between males and females.

To prevent aggression altogether, only keep a single angelfish in any given tank.

Tank Mates to Avoid

Angelfish tank mates to avoid are smaller, slower fish. Because of this, most species of tetra are incompatible with angels; at the same time, fin-nipping tetra species must also be avoided. Overly aggressive species, like African cichlids, can’t be kept with angelfish as they may injure or stress them out. Lastly, tank mates can’t be overly active as this could also cause damage to your fish or cause unnecessary competition during feeding periods.

Complete Care Guide

Once you get the tank mate situation sorted out, angelfish care is easy. These are relatively hardy fish that have been captive bred in the aquarium trade for decades. This has made them very resistant to common aquarium illnesses and forgiving of incorrect water conditions.

Here are some ways you can give your angelfish the best life possible!

Aquarium Setup

The best angelfish aquarium setup will resemble their natural habitat with slow-moving water and dense vegetation. In fact, the angelfish body shape is perfectly designed to flow in and out of live plants. Not only do plants make your fish feel at home, but they also help maintain water quality and lessen the need for tank maintenance.

On top of live plants, hard structures, like driftwood and smooth rocks, can be used to make your fish feel more comfortable.

Tank Size

Angelfish can get to be pretty decent sizes, but their relaxed demeanor and ease of care don’t make a large tank necessary.

What size tank do angelfish need? A single pair of angelfish without any other fish need a 20 gallon tall tank. A pair of angelfish with other community fish need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. A small group of angels should be kept in freshwater aquariums over 100 gallons.

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As mentioned before, a tall tank is better than a long tank when keeping angelfish due to their long, pointed fins.

Tank Decorations

Angels are best kept in aquariums that match the conditions of the freshwater rivers and streams that they’re found in, but they have adapted to the more traditional appearance of hobbyist tanks. This means they can be kept in a planted aquarium with natural driftwood and rock or colorful decor and pirate ships.

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Just as long as these decorations are aquarium-safe and won’t tug at your fish’s delicate fins, they can be used for an angel tank.

Substrate

Similarly, angelfish can be kept on an assortment of substrates, like sand, gravel, or even a bare bottom. Sand is beneficial for hobbyists looking to achieve a natural appearance that facilities plant root growth. Gravel is a popular choice for beginner hobbyists that aren’t interested in keeping plants. A bare bottom is great for angel keepers looking to minimize their workload.

Lighting

Angels generally aren’t shy fish. In fact, shyness can be a sign that something is wrong. For the most part, angelfish are likely to be found in the front of the tank. If they’re hiding in the back, then they might be facing bullying from other fish, improper water parameters, or overly intense lighting.

If you find that your fish is staying in the shadows of your tank, observe for bullying, test water conditions, and try lowering the lighting intensity. Adding floating plants and creating more areas of shade can help your fish feel more comfortable.

Live Plants

Live plants are the best tank mates for angelfish! These fish can be kept with all species of plant in a high or low tech setting. They especially enjoy floating plant species that provide food and coverage at the top of the tank.

Tank Maintenance

If keeping angels in a planted aquarium, then not a lot of tank maintenance is required as the plants will naturally recycle excess nutrients. Here’s how to make sure your angel tank stays running smoothly!

Filtration and Aeration

Angelfish do best in an aquarium with little to no water current. However, adequate water flow is necessary for the circulation of gases and nutrients throughout the aquarium.

For the most part, the current from an appropriately sized hang on the back filter or canister filter will be gentle enough for angels. If you find that your fish is struggling to swim in your aquarium, then it might be necessary to baffle the return flow.

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Keep in mind that angelfish grow to large sizes, which means more waste. Gauge how many fish you have and their size when picking out your aquarium filter. Otherwise, additional aeration is not necessary, though a carbon dioxide diffuser might be necessary for heavily planted setups.

Water Parameters

Angels are hardy fish, but cannot tolerate traces of ammonia or nitrite. Planted aquariums require nitrate to run, though levels should always remain under 30 ppm. It may be necessary to dose nutrients for healthy plant growth.

While wild angelfish originate from acidic water conditions, most individuals have been captive bred. This means that they have adapted to average aquarium conditions with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 and a water temperature between 75 and 82°F.

Tank Maintenance

For most aquariums, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly cleaning schedule maintains water parameters. This percentage and frequency may change depending on the number of plants and current bioload in the aquarium. It’s strongly recommended to use an aquarium vacuum while performing a water change to remove any debris or waste that gets stuck in the substrate or between plant stems.

Another part of maintenance is trimming plants. Though this isn’t required, some plants can grow unruly, which can start to become overwhelming. Not to mention that you will need to keep up with feeding your plants as well.

Breeding

Breeding angelfish is easy, fun, and rewarding. These fish are relatively easy to breed as long as you’re able to establish a male and female pairing. Breeding should take place in a separate tank if there are other fish present in the aquarium. A video below by Patrick Neary goes into more detail.

There are a few differences between male and female angels, but they can be hard to see. One of the only, though not always guaranteed, ways to tell these fish apart is by examining their behavior. Male angelfish tend to show much more territorial behavior than females, though some females can be just as aggressive.

In general, it’s best to shop from pet stores that already have an established breeding pair. Otherwise, a small group of juvenile angelfish can be purchased and maintained until a breeding pair has formed.

Once a pair has formed, they angelfish mate on their own. The water temperature may be slightly elevated, and the quality of food increased to encourage spawning. When ready, the female will release eggs that the male will fertilize. Angelfish parents are very protective of their eggs and should be kept together during this time.

Within a few days, the eggs will hatch the fry will become free-swimming. Baby brine shrimp are great to feed these newborn fish as the yolk sacs of newly hatched brine shrimp offer a lot of nutritional value to them. The parents will continue offering protection during this time but have been known to eat their fry if not supplied with enough food!

Fry may be fed tiny foods, like brine shrimp nauplii, until ready to accept bigger portions.

Fish Diseases

Though angels are hardy fish, they’re susceptible to a few unique diseases and illnesses. Like other fish, they can contract ich, velvet, and fin rot, especially if their long fins are allowed to scrape across objects in the aquarium. Here are a few less common problems you might experience with your angelfish:

1. Cloudy eyes. Cloudy eyes are never a good sign in fish. They’re usually indicative of a larger bacteria, fungus, or parasitic infection. Cloudy eyes are usually caused by poor water quality and can usually be treated with consistent water changes and light medication treatment.
2. Gill flukes. These are parasites that take over the fish’s gills and cause inflammation, difficulty breathing, and secondary infections. Gill flukes are a little more difficult to treat than affected fish experiencing cloudy eyes and can require medication, dips, and consistent water changes.
3. Hexamita. Another parasitic infection, Hexamita causes hole in the head for angels. This is usually caused by water quality and can be treated by removing carbon from the aquarium, medications, and water changes.

When picking out your new fish, find angelfish that are bright in color, round in the head, and with clear eyes. If possible, ask the employees at the pet stores to feed the fish in front of you. There should be no hesitation to eat. Once home, quarantine your angels accordingly.

Conclusion

Angels are very popular fish for a good reason! They are easy to care for, beautiful in color, and a statement piece for any freshwater aquarium. It can be slightly challenging to find suitable tank mates for angels, but they do well on their own, in pairs, or with large, moderately active species. When kept in pairs, they’re easy and rewarding to breed!

Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect — outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

Introduction To Goldfish

Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

1. Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.
   
   However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.
   
   It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
2. Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
3. Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
4. Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
5. Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

Introduction To Breeding

Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

How To Breed Them

The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

Aquarium Setup

In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54° F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74° F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

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Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

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Spawning

Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

Raising The Fry

Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

Conclusion

Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Red devil cichlids earn their name. They’re large, bold, and genuinely aggressive — and in 25+ years I’ve seen plenty of them rehomed by people who underestimated just how much personality (and destruction) one fish can bring to a tank. That’s not a knock against the species. It just means they’re a commitment, not an afterthought.

If you want a fish that will recognize you through the glass, interact with you at feeding time, and completely own its environment — a red devil is hard to beat. But you need to go in knowing this is essentially a single-specimen setup. Tank mates require very careful selection, and the tank itself needs to be built around this fish. Here’s everything you need to know.

Fish Species Overview

Origins

The red devil cichlid is native to Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua, two large freshwater lakes in the Central American country of Nicaragua. These Nicaraguan lakes provide naturally warm waters throughout the year.

These feisty fish have been introduced to a few places in the world, and wild populations exist in Florida and Hawaii today.

Appearance

The red devil cichlid is a large, attractive freshwater fish that comes in a range of colors. Wild fish are often gray or dark brown but specimens in the aquarium trade stand out with white, yellow, orange, and even bright red shades.

They may be a single color or a combination, with many fish having attractive spots and patterns. Many specimens change color as they mature, so a full-grown adult may look quite different from when you first bought it.

Male red devil fish are larger than females and develop a pronounced bump (nuchal hump) above their heads. Red devils are characterized by their large, thick lips, although this feature is much more pronounced in wild-caught fish.

Red devil cichlids have large dorsal and anal fins that end in a sharp point, sometimes extending to the end of their fan-shaped tails.

The red devil cichlid is easily confused with another popular Central American species known as the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus). However, the red devil grows larger and tends to have thicker lips.

How Big Can They Get?

The red devil cichlid is a large, heavily built fish. Adults can measure 12 to 15 inches when fully grown, and males are the larger sex.

Red devil cichlids are often sold at just an inch or two, but they grow to reach adult size in just three years or so.

How Long Do They Live?

The red devil cichlid can live for over ten years with good care. Their average lifespan is about 10 to 12 years, making them a similar commitment to the average dog.

These fish will live longest if given plenty of tank space, high water quality, and a healthy, balanced diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feeding your red devil cichlid is one of the easiest aspects of its care. These true omnivores eat insect larvae, snails, small fish, and plant material in nature.

Captive specimens are not fussy, and high-quality cichlid pellets are the best option for their daily needs, although young red devil cichlids will eagerly accept tropical fish flakes.

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Supplement the red devil cichlid diet with the following foods to improve their general condition:

• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Peas
• Lettuce
• Spinach

Live Foods

Live foods provide a great natural source of nutrition for your red devil cichlid. These fish regularly hunt live prey in nature, so they certainly have that killer instinct. Live foods like earthworms, crickets, and cockroaches are great choices.

How Often and How Much to Feed them

Feed your red devil cichlid at least twice each day, providing only as much food as your fish will eat. Remove any uneaten food before it spoils in your tank water.

Red devil cichlids can be very excitable around mealtimes, and they will often crash into the hood of your aquarium when taking food from the surface. Make sure your lid is securely fitted and solidly built.

Weigh down lightweight hoods to keep them securely in place, and take care when feeding these fish, as an accidental bite could be pretty painful.

Temperament and Behavior

The red devil cichlid is an aggressive fish, and they aren’t called devils for nothing! However, these colorful cichlids usually make wonderful pets that love to interact with their owners.

Nevertheless, many specimens will bite the hand that feeds them, and larger fish can easily draw blood. In extreme cases, you may need to use a divider to keep your fish to one side when performing tank maintenance.

Red devils are not fish you can add to a community aquarium. These guys need careful planning and a tank that is designed around their needs. However, it is possible to keep them with some other fish types.

Continue reading to learn about the best red devil cichlid tank mates.

Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates

Choosing tank mates for your red devil cichlid is challenging because these fish are just so aggressive. It is best to keep them in a species-only tank because they have such great personalities that you don’t need any others.

Nevertheless, multi-fish tanks are possible, but you should always have a plan B in case things don’t work out. Keeping your red devil cichlid with other fish will require an enormous aquarium, so consider the size and weight of a 180 + gallon aquarium before committing to this kind of setup.

Best Tank Mates For Them

It is possible to keep these fish with other red devil cichlids when they are young, but they will become increasingly aggressive as they mature. Introducing all the tank mates when they are young is the best chance of creating a harmonious fish tank, but there are no guarantees when it comes to the red devil.

Some freshwater fish have lived side by side with the red devil cichlid. Plecos are one of them, although these bottom feeders may become strictly nocturnal to stay out of the red devil’s way.

Other possible options are large cichlids like Jack Dempseys, Texas, Midas, and jaguar cichlids, but again, having a spare tank is important if things go wrong.

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Most fish will not get along with the red devil cichlid. Smaller fish may be eaten, while others may be attacked and killed.

Red devil cichlids become particularly aggressive when breeding. They will kill any other fish in their tank during this time.

Care

Red devil cichlids are not ideal for beginner aquarists. That being said, their care is relatively straightforward for more experienced fishkeepers, especially if you start out with the right tank setup.

Read on to learn more about red devil cichlid care, their tank size, and setup needs.

Tank Requirements

The red devil cichlid needs a large aquarium with stable decorations, a secure hood, and a fine sand substrate. Keep reading for more information.

Tank Size

Red devil cichlids are large fish that need plenty of room. You can start out with a 55-gallon tank, but a 75-gallon setup will be best for a single fish in the long run. You could also keep a pair in this size tank, but stepping up to a larger size is a better bet.

Setup

Keeping red devil cichlids is all about the fish, so don’t design a complicated aquascape. These fish rearrange their tank regularly, so choosing the right decor is very important.

Decor

Providing a cave or shelter is a great way to ensure your fish has a place to relax and feel secure. However, safety is a very important consideration when choosing decorations for red devil cichlids.

These fish love to dig, and they can destabilize rock piles and driftwood arrangements, causing them to collapse. This could cause injury to your fish or even crack your aquarium!

Avoid placing decorations on top of deep sand. If you don’t want to make a rock arrangement for your fish, secure each component with an aquarium and fish-safe epoxy.

Substrate

A fine sand substrate is ideal because it will allow your fish to dig without scratching or injuring themselves.

Live Plants

Red devil cichlids are not recommended for a planted aquarium because they are notorious for tearing up all sorts of aquatic plants.

Water Quality And Filtration

Maintaining high water quality is essential in any aquarium; your red devil tank is no exception.

Filtration & Aeration

Powerful filtration is vital when keeping these large and messy fish. Red devils can be very hard on aquarium equipment like filters and heaters, so external hardware is often the best choice. Canister filters with integrated heaters (or you can get an in-line heater) are a great option because they limit the amount of hardware that your red devil cichlid can reach.

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A sump system is recommended for larger tanks. Larger hang-on back and internal power filters typically do not have enough to capacity to house adult cichlids. Their activity might also damage internal filters and sponge filters.

Red devil cichlids are native to stillwater environments, so aim for moderate water movement to avoid stressing your fish. Although it’s not essential, an airstone or two will increase aeration in your red devil cichlid tank and increase the activity levels of your fish.

Water Parameters

Red devil cichlids can be kept in water with a pH of 6 to 8, although right around neutral is preferred. Ideal temperatures range from about 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and they will thrive in water hardness of 6 to 25 dGH.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is essential for keeping your red devil cichlid tank looking great and keeping your fish in excellent health.

Perform a 25-30% water change on your aquarium each week to reduce the build-up of nitrates in your water. This is also a great time to clean up your glass, vacuum up waste from the substrate, and perform any maintenance on your equipment.

Testing Tank Conditions

The only way to really know what’s going on in your water chemistry is to test regularly. Red devil cichlids can survive in a reasonable range of water parameters, but you should strive to maintain stable conditions in your tank.

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Pick up a test kit that can monitor the following important parameters:

• Nitrates (NO3)
• Nitrites (NO2)
• Ammonia (NH3 & NH4+)
• pH
• GH
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Breeding

Breeding red devil cichlids is relatively easy – just make sure you’ll be able to find homes for all the young freshwater fish before you start!

Sexing

The first step toward breeding red devil cichlids is to acquire a breeding pair. Fortunately, adult red devil cichlids are relatively easy to sex. The male red devil cichlid is bigger (up to 15 inches) and has a bigger nuchal hump. Females max out at about 10 inches and have a lighter build and a flatter forehead.

However, forming a pair is easier said than done since males can kill females if they don’t hit it off. Growing out a few young red devils in a large tank and allowing a pair to form naturally is one safe technique, but the other fish will need to be removed for their safety.

These fish can reach spawning age when they are about 6 inches long if healthy and well-conditioned.

Conditioning

Your fish should be in excellent condition before starting your breeding project. Pay extra attention to their water quality through frequent maintenance and provide plenty of live and frozen foods.

Raising the tank temperature to 75 – 78 degrees, Fahrenheit can trigger spawning since this replicates the natural temperature increase in their breeding season.

The Breeding Process

Red devil cichlids usually spawn on hard, level surfaces like a flat rock, or the walls or ceiling of a cave. The female will lay hundreds of eggs which the male then fertilizes.

The fertilized eggs will begin to hatch after about three days and will be closely guarded by the adult fish. After hatching, the young fry will be moved to a hole in the substrate and become free swimming within another week or so.

Males can become aggressive toward female red devil cichlids at this point, so make sure you include a few secure hiding places and caves that are too small to fit the male. A divider is necessary in some cases.

Caring for Fry

Red devils are large fish, and you can expect a lot of babies after a successful spawn. Be prepared to see 300 to 800 red devil cichlid fry! The fry gets all the nutrients they need from their yolk sac, but they will require food after their fourth or fifth day.

Baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes are great starter foods for these fish. You can feed the fry directly using a turkey baster or a large syringe with some airline tubing.

The adult fish (video source) are usually very protective over their fry, although you can move the baby fish to their own tank to avoid any chance of them being eaten by their parents. Move the female to her own tank, if you choose to separate the fry as this can trigger extra aggression from the male.

Health And Disease

Red devil cichlids are not particularly prone to health problems, and they tend to be relatively trouble-free if maintained in good conditions. Like any fish species, they are most likely to develop problems when stressed by poor water quality, inappropriate food, or conflict with other fish.

Evaluating their Health

The best way to monitor your fish’s health is to observe their physical appearance and behavior. Make the time to watch your fish for a few minutes in the morning and evening each day, and pay attention to any noticeable changes.

Healthy fish have vibrant colors, complete fins that are not held clamped against the body, and a healthy appearance without sores or wounds.

Buoyancy issues like floating or sinking are something to watch out for, as well as low activity levels and a lack of appetite.

Common Health Issues

Red devil cichlids can contract various illnesses that commonly affect freshwater fish species. Consult your veterinarian for more information on treating illnesses in your fish.

• Ich

Ich or white spot disease is one of the most common illnesses that affect freshwater fish, and it is serious if left untreated. This parasitic infection is caused by protozoa and often flares up in stressed fish.

Ich can be treated with aquarium salt, heat treatments, or specially formulated medications like ich-X.

• Fungal infections

Fungal infections can cause fluffy growths on your fish’s skin, gills, and fins. This form of illness often arises from poor water conditions, so a targeted treatment with antifungal medication and better aquarium hygiene are recommended for the best results.

• Physical injuries from fighting

Red devil cichlids have an aggressive nature, and they are often kept with other aggressive freshwater fish. Fights happen, and these powerful cichlids can easily damage each other with their powerful jaws and sharp teeth.

It’s very important to have a spare fish tank available if you keep red devil cichlids with other fish, even of the same species. Separate your fish immediately if you see signs of serious aggression and treat their wounds when necessary.

• Bacterial infections

Fish are susceptible to many bacterial infections, particularly when injured or kept in poor water quality conditions. These infections can be treated with antibiotics, available online, from aquarium stores, or from your local veterinarian.

Where To Buy

Red devil cichlids are very affordable if bought young. You can find these aggressive cichlid species online or at many aquarium stores. Unfortunately, red devils often hybridize with other cichlid species like Midas and Texas, so buy from a reputable breeder to be sure your fish are purebred.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

The red devil cichlid is not for everyone. However, If you want a feisty, aggressive, and exciting pet that loves to interact, it might be the perfect option for you! Just make sure you read through this guide carefully before adopting one of these amazing cichlids from Central America.

Do you keep red devil cichlids? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.