Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Most people set up a crayfish tank, add a few fish they think look good with it, and then wonder why those fish are disappearing one by one. Here’s what’s actually happening: crayfish hunt at night. They’re slow during the day, almost lazy, but once the lights go out, they patrol the bottom and grab anything within claw reach. Tails, fins, whole small fish. They’re more dangerous than they look, and the danger is almost entirely invisible until you wake up to a missing fish.

The crayfish owns the bottom of the tank. Every tank mate decision starts there.

This isn’t a list of fish that are “safe” with crayfish, nothing is truly safe. This is a list of fish with the best odds of surviving the setup, because they’re fast, they live in the upper water column, and they’re smart enough (or wired enough) to stay out of claw range. If you go in with that mindset, you’ll have a far better experience than the hobbyist who adds a slow corydoras and calls it a compatible tank mate.

What People Get Wrong

The biggest misconception about crayfish is that they’re slow, clumsy invertebrates that fish can easily outswim. During the day, that’s basically true. At night, it’s a completely different animal. Crayfish are sit-and-wait ambush predators, they don’t chase fish across the tank. They wait near cover, extend their claws, and grab whatever passes close enough. A fish resting on or near the substrate at night is in serious danger. A slow fish, a fancy-tailed fish, or a sick fish that drifts too low is a meal.

The second major misconception is that feeding the crayfish well means tank mates are safe. Feeding does reduce aggression, but a well-fed crayfish still hunts. It’s instinct, not hunger. Don’t mistake a full crayfish for a safe one.

And the third mistake, adding any invertebrate to the tank and expecting it to survive. Shrimp, snails, small crabs: the crayfish will find them and eat them. It’s what they do.

Understanding Crayfish Behavior

Behavior And Temperament

Crayfish are territorial, curious, and surprisingly destructive. They’ll rearrange substrate, uproot plants, knock over decorations, and establish a home territory they’ll defend aggressively. In a tank, their world is the bottom, they patrol it, claim it, and hunt in it. Any fish that spends time near the substrate is inside the crayfish’s kill zone.

Different species have meaningfully different aggression levels and claw reach:

• Dwarf Crayfish (CPO, Blue Dwarf), smallest claw reach, highest community tank success rate
• Electric Blue Crayfish: moderate aggression, moderate success with careful stocking
• Red Swamp Crayfish: highly aggressive, poor community tank candidate
• Marmorkrebs: invasive, reproduces parthenogenetically; legal restrictions in many areas
• Australian Red Claw Crayfish: large and aggressive; poor community tank candidate
• Yabby: highly territorial; best kept species-only

Dwarf crayfish are the only species where a community setup is genuinely reasonable. Larger species like the Electric Blue can work, but the margin for error is thin. The Australian Red Claw is essentially a species-only animal.

Ideal Tank Environment And Parameters

Water parameters for most crayfish: pH 6.5–7.5, temperature 65–75°F (18–24°C), moderate hardness, moderate water flow. A 55-gallon (208 L) tank is the minimum for an Electric Blue Crayfish with community fish, the extra space reduces territorial pressure and gives fish more room to stay out of the danger zone. Smaller tanks increase the odds of contact between the crayfish and its tank mates.

Dense planting and heavy hardscape serve two purposes: the crayfish gets cover to feel secure (a secure crayfish hunts less), and fish get visual barriers that break line of sight. Floating plants benefit surface-dwelling species by keeping them oriented toward the top of the tank. Java moss and hornwort are sacrificial, the crayfish will shred them, but that’s actually fine. Losing some plant mass is better than losing fish.

Top Crayfish Tank Mates

A few hard truths before the list:

• Every fish on this list carries risk, there is no zero-risk tank mate for a crayfish
• The crayfish will eat anything that spends time near the substrate at night
• Larger aggressive fish may seem safer, but post-molt crayfish are soft and defenseless, large fish will attack them
• The best tank mates are fast, schooling, mid-to-top swimmers that are cheap enough to replace

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Other Crayfish	4–6 inches (10–15 cm)	40+ gal (151+ L)	7/10	Moderate
Zebra Danios	2–2.5 inches (5–6 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	9/10	High
Livebearers	2–5 inches (5–13 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	9/10	High
Ricefish	2 inches (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	7/10	High
Pencilfish	2 inches (5 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	7/10	High
White Cloud Mountain Minnows	1.5 inches (4 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	9/10	High
Silver Dollars	6 inches (15 cm)	75 gal (284 L)	9/10	High
Goldfish (single-tail only)	6+ inches (15+ cm)	40 gal (151 L)	7/10	Moderate
Hatchetfish	1.5 inches (4 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	7/10	High
Rainbowfish	3–6 inches (8–15 cm)	40 gal (151 L)	8/10	High

Expert Take

After 25+ years keeping and selling freshwater fish, my take on crayfish tank mates is blunt: most combinations people try don’t work, and most of the failures are predictable. At the stores I managed, crayfish tanks always had a sign on them, no slow fish, no fancy fins, no shrimp. Crayfish are escape artists, habitat destroyers, and nocturnal hunters. People fall in love with their personality and their looks, and then underestimate how methodically they work through a tank after dark. I’ve seen crayfish pull fish out of the water column at night, uproot entire planted sections, and wipe out a shrimp colony in under a week. The safest crayfish tank mate strategy is fast, mid-to-top-dwelling fish that are expendable enough that losing one or two doesn’t hurt. Build the tank for the crayfish first. Add fish second. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

1. Other Crayfish

Ease: 7/10: Possible, but requires careful planning and a large tank.

• Scientific Name: Procambarus spp.
• Adult Size: 4–6 inches (10–15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 65–75°F (18–24°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 40+ gallons (151+ L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: North America
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Two crayfish in the same tank is doable, but it takes space, structure, and vigilance. Each animal needs its own territory with clear visual separation. A minimum 4-foot tank (40+ gallons / 151+ L) is required just to attempt it. Males are the most aggressive toward each other and will fight to injure or kill given the opportunity. If you see one consistently being chased or losing limbs, separate them immediately, they don’t heal fast enough to survive prolonged harassment.

The one scenario where multiple crayfish genuinely work is a breeding pair with a large tank and a plan to separate the female post-spawning. Otherwise, plan for a species-only tank or very large footprint.

2. Zebra Danios

Ease: 9/10: The gold standard for crayfish tank mates.

• Scientific Name: Danio rerio
• Adult Size: 2–2.5 inches (5–6 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–81°F (22–27°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: All levels, primarily surface

Zebra danios are the single best fish you can add to a crayfish tank. They’re fast (genuinely fast) and they have the nervous energy to match. A crayfish cannot catch a healthy danio. They dart constantly, stay near the surface, and school tightly in groups, which further reduces individual predation risk. Keep them in groups of at least 8; a larger school means each individual fish spends less time exposed.

They’re also cheap enough that losing one to a crayfish ambush isn’t a disaster. That’s exactly the kind of tank mate you want in this setup. If you want one fish to build a crayfish community around, this is it.

Choose danios over neon tetras for a crayfish tank, danios are faster, hardier, and far less likely to drift near the substrate. Neon tetras look appealing, but they’re slower and the casualties are higher.

3. Livebearers

Ease: 9/10: High survival rate, especially in well-planted setups.

• Scientific Name: Poecilia, Xiphophorus spp.
• Adult Size: 2–5 inches (5–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 64–82°F (18–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: North/Central America
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Guppies, mollies, platies, and swordtails all work reasonably well with crayfish. They’re quick enough to avoid most claw grabs, they breed fast enough to replace their own losses, and they naturally stay in the upper half of the tank. Platies and mollies are your best picks here, they’re stockier than guppies, harder to grab, and less likely to drift low.

One important caveat: fancy guppies with long, flowing tails are a trap. Those tails slow them down and give the crayfish something to grab at night. I’ve seen it at the store, a customer comes in proud of their crayfish-guppy tank, and a week later they’re back buying replacements. Every time, it was the fancy-finned males that went first. Stick to standard short-fin guppies or skip guppies entirely and go with mollies or platies. Feed the crayfish well, a well-fed crayfish is noticeably less aggressive toward its tank mates. A starving crayfish will hunt everything it can reach.

4. Ricefish

Ease: 7/10: Great choice in well-planted tanks with floating cover.

• Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 61–75°F (16–24°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Japan, East Asia
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Ricefish are an underrated option. They’re naturally surface-oriented, in the wild, they live in shallow rice paddies and spend their entire lives near the top of the water column. That behavior translates directly into crayfish avoidance. Add floating plants like frogbit or water lettuce, and the ricefish will stay anchored near the surface all day and night.

The risk is that ricefish are small. A large crayfish with a long reach can theoretically grab one if it drifts too low. Keep the floating plant cover dense, maintain a large school (10+), and the odds are in your favor.

Hard Rule: Never add snails, shrimp, or any slow-finned bottom fish to a crayfish tank. Shrimp disappear overnight. Snails get cracked open and eaten like snacks. Fancy-tailed guppies and slow corydoras are just scheduled meals. The crayfish won’t announce it, you’ll just find them missing.

5. Pencilfish

Ease: 7/10: Excellent surface dwellers with a naturally safe behavioral profile.

• Scientific Name: Nannostomus spp.
• Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 64–82°F (18–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Pencilfish hold a horizontal, near-surface position almost constantly. They’re slim, quick, and instinctively avoid the bottom. They won’t compete with the crayfish for food, sinking pellets hit the substrate before pencilfish react, which means you can feed the crayfish at the bottom without the pencilfish interfering. That separation makes daily feeding much cleaner to manage.

Keep them in groups of 8 or more. A small school of pencilfish will feel insecure and may start hovering lower in the tank, that increases their risk significantly. Large schools stay near the surface where they belong.

6. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest, most resilient options for this setup.

• Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
• Water Temperature: 57–72°F (14–22°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: China
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

White cloud mountain minnows are fast, cold-tolerant, and naturally mid-to-top dwellers. They’re one of the best options specifically for crayfish setups that run on the cooler end (65–72°F (18–22°C)) where warmer-water fish like danios may not thrive as well. If you’re running an unheated or lightly heated tank, white clouds are often the smarter choice than danios.

Keep numbers high, 10 or more. A small group of white clouds gets nervous, and nervous fish drift lower in the water column. That’s exactly where you don’t want them. A big, confident school stays near the surface and the crayfish below becomes irrelevant to them.

7. Silver Dollars

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices due to size and speed.

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus / Metynnis hypsauchen
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore (primarily herbivore)
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Silver dollars are one of the safest options purely because of size. At 6 inches (15 cm) and fast, they’re simply too large for a crayfish to catch or consume. They school tightly, stay in the middle and upper tank, and their size means even an aggressive crayfish won’t attempt a grab. They also won’t harass the crayfish post-molt, which makes this combination unusually stable.

The tradeoff: silver dollars need a 75-gallon (284 L) tank minimum, and they’ll absolutely destroy soft-leaved plants. This is a bare-bottom or artificial-plant setup. If you’re okay with that trade, silver dollars with crayfish is one of the most reliably peaceful combinations on this list.

8. Goldfish (Single-Tail Only)

Ease: 7/10: Works only with the right variety. Most goldfish are disqualified.

• Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
• Adult Size: 6+ inches (15+ cm)
• Water Temperature: 60–72°F (16–22°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: China
• Swimming Level: All levels

Goldfish with crayfish is a complicated answer. The fancy-tailed varieties (orandas, ranchus, bubble eyes) are slow, low-swimming, and easy targets. A crayfish will grab them by the tail at night. Don’t do it. Full stop.

Single-tail varieties are a different story. Shubunkins, comets, and common goldfish are fast, large, and spend less time near the substrate. Their size alone is a meaningful deterrent. The key rule: the goldfish must be larger than the crayfish at the time of introduction, and must stay that way. A goldfish that’s smaller than the crayfish is at risk. One that outgrows it is reasonably safe.

Good single-tail picks for this setup: Shubunkin, Comet. Avoid Fantails: they straddle the line and slow down with age.

9. Hatchetfish

Ease: 7/10: Nearly untouchable by crayfish, but requires a covered tank.

• Scientific Name: Gasteropelecus sternicla
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–81°F (22–27°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Insectivore/surface feeder
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Top (surface)

Hatchetfish are permanently surface-dwelling, they don’t go down. They eat at the surface, rest near the surface, and spend their entire lives in the top 2 inches (5 cm) of water. In theory, this makes them virtually immune to crayfish predation. In practice, there’s one serious catch: hatchetfish jump. A stressed or startled hatchetfish will clear the waterline instantly. This tank needs a tight-fitting lid with no gaps, not just a recommendation, a requirement.

Keep them in groups of 6 or more. A lone hatchetfish or small group will be stressed and more prone to jumping. A secure, larger group with surface cover (floating plants) will settle down and thrive in this setup.

10. Rainbowfish

Ease: 8/10: Fast, mid-to-top, and large enough to be low-risk.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia spp.
• Adult Size: 3–6 inches (8–15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Australia, Indonesia, New Guinea
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Rainbowfish are large, fast, and visually stunning, and they’re a serious upgrade for anyone who wants more than small schooling fish in a crayfish tank. Species like Boesemani or Turquoise rainbowfish reach 4–5 inches (10–13 cm), which combined with their speed makes them nearly claw-proof. They school actively in the middle and upper water column, rarely venturing near the substrate.

The tank size requirement is the main limiting factor. Choose rainbowfish over cichlids if you want a larger centerpiece fish in a crayfish tank, cichlids are either too small and get eaten, or too large and will attack the crayfish after it molts. There’s no winning with cichlids in this setup. Rainbowfish don’t have that problem. They’re big enough not to be prey, peaceful enough not to be a threat, and fast enough to stay out of trouble.

Other Considerations: Fish That Don’t Work

These species come up frequently in online discussions about crayfish tank mates. Here’s why they’re not on the main list:

• Red Tail Sharks: Large but slows with age and spends too much time near the substrate. Bottom territory conflict with the crayfish is near-certain.
• Golden Wonder Killifish: Surface dweller, but not as reliably fast or evasive as danios. Higher loss rate in practice.
• African Butterfly Fish: Good behavioral match (pure surface dweller), but needs a larger tank and a lid. Worth considering for advanced setups.
• Tiger Barbs: Too curious. They’ll investigate the crayfish, nip at its antennae, and eventually provoke a response that ends badly, usually for the barb.
• Bala Sharks: Work, but need very large tanks (6 feet / 1.8 m minimum). Not practical for most setups.
• Neon Tetras: Often cited online but perform worse than danios. Slower, smaller, and more prone to resting near the substrate. Loss rates are higher.
• Cichlids: Too unpredictable. Small cichlids get eaten. Large cichlids attack post-molt crayfish. There’s no reliable middle ground.
• Corydoras: Bottom dwellers. Do not add. They spend their entire lives in the crayfish’s kill zone.
• Any shrimp or snails: Not a tank mate discussion. They’re food.

The Biggest Mistake Crayfish Keepers Make

Build the tank around the crayfish first. That’s the thing most people get backwards. They already have a community tank, they add a crayfish because it looks cool, and then they watch their fish disappear one by one over the next few weeks. I’ve seen this exact scenario play out more times than I can count, at the stores, online in forums, and with customers who come back confused why their tank is emptying. By the time they figure out what’s happening, they’ve lost a corydoras, a guppy, and probably that mystery snail they forgot was even in there.

The crayfish needs to go in first. Let it settle, make sure it’s eating, and build your hiding spots before you add a single fish. Then pick tank mates based on where they swim and how fast they move, not how they look in the store. If you’re not okay with occasionally losing one, don’t put it in this tank.

And don’t forget the molt. Every few weeks, your crayfish will shed its exoskeleton and spend 24–72 hours completely defenseless, soft body, can barely move. Fish that have been perfectly peaceful will sometimes turn on it during this window. Know which species you’re keeping. If there’s any doubt, have a breeder net ready to drop the crayfish into until it hardens back up. It takes maybe 10 minutes to set up and it can save the crayfish’s life.

Tips For A Successful Setup

Providing Hiding Spots

A well-hidden crayfish is a less aggressive crayfish. Crayfish are nocturnal, they need secure cover during the day, and without it they get stressed and hungry. A stressed crayfish hunts more, not less. Set up caves, PVC pipe sections, rocks, and driftwood structures they can fully enter and feel secure inside. Multiple hiding spots reduce territorial competition if you’re keeping more than one.

Maintaining Water Parameters

Crayfish are messy, they shred food, scatter debris, and generate more waste than most people expect from a single invertebrate. In a community tank, that mess adds up fast. Target pH 6.5–7.5, temperature 65–75°F (18–24°C), moderate hardness (100–200 ppm GH). Test pH, temperature, and hardness weekly. Do 25–30% water changes weekly. Non-negotiable.

Monitoring Feeding Habits

Feed the crayfish before lights-out, that’s when they’re most active and hungry. A well-fed crayfish at the start of the night is far less likely to go hunting. Sinking pellets, blanched vegetables, and occasional protein (bloodworms, shrimp pellets) all work. Remove uneaten food within a few hours. Crayfish will eat decaying food off the substrate, but it’s not worth the water quality hit.

Mark’s Pick: Zebra danios and white cloud mountain minnows are my go-to combination for a crayfish community tank. Both are fast, both stay in the upper water column, both are inexpensive, and both school actively enough that the crayfish essentially ignores them. Add 10–15 of each in a 40-gallon (151 L) setup, give the crayfish plenty of cover, and feed it well every evening. That’s the version of this tank that actually works long-term.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can crayfish live with any fish at all?

Yes, but with realistic expectations. No fish is 100% safe in a crayfish tank, the crayfish may eat any tank mate given the right opportunity. The goal is to choose fish that minimize that opportunity: fast swimmers, mid-to-top water column, and schooling species that don’t linger near the substrate.

Do crayfish really eat fish at night?

Yes. Crayfish are nocturnal ambush predators. During the day they hide and appear slow and harmless. After lights-out, they patrol the bottom actively. Any fish resting on or near the substrate is at risk. This is why daytime observations of fish-crayfish interactions don’t tell you the full story, the actual predation happens when you’re not watching.

Can I keep shrimp with crayfish?

No. Shrimp are crayfish food, period. Even dwarf crayfish will eat small shrimp given the chance. There is no shrimp species that is reliably safe in a crayfish tank. If you want shrimp, build a separate tank.

What happens when the crayfish molts?

Post-molt, the crayfish is soft, slow, and defenseless for 24–72 hours. During this window, even normally peaceful fish may pick at it. Remove the old exoskeleton (or leave it for the crayfish to eat, it recycles the calcium). Watch tank mates closely. If you have larger or aggressive fish, be prepared to temporarily isolate the crayfish in a breeder net during molt recovery.

Are dwarf crayfish different from regular crayfish for community tanks?

Significantly. Dwarf crayfish like the Orange CPO (Cambarellus patzcuarensis) max out around 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) and have a fraction of the claw reach of a full-sized Electric Blue or Red Claw. They can be kept with small shrimp in some cases and have a much higher community tank success rate overall. If you want a crayfish in a community setup, start with a dwarf species.

How many fish should I keep with a crayfish?

Schooling fish should always be kept in groups of 10 or more in a crayfish tank. A large, confident school is harder to pick off individually and spends more time in the upper water column where they’re safest. A small group of 4–5 fish will be nervous, swim lower, and experience higher losses.

Does tank size matter for crayfish tank mate success?

Significantly. A larger tank gives fish more room to stay out of the crayfish’s range and reduces the territorial pressure that leads to aggression. A 55-gallon (208 L) or larger tank dramatically improves the odds of a stable community setup compared to a 20-gallon (76 L). More space, fewer incidents.

Closing Thoughts

Crayfish are one of the most fascinating invertebrates you can keep, they have personality, they interact with their environment, and they’re endlessly entertaining to watch. But they’re not community fish. They’re nocturnal predators that happen to share a tank with your fish, and the fish you choose need to be selected with that reality in mind.

The formula isn’t complicated: fast fish, mid-to-top water column, large schools, well-fed crayfish, plenty of hiding spots. Get those things right and this setup genuinely works. Skip any of them and you’ll be replacing fish on a regular basis wondering what keeps going wrong.

Crayfish aren’t community fish. They’re a centerpiece that other fish survive around. Build the tank for the crayfish first, everything else follows from there.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide, your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Bichirs are one of those fish that immediately turn heads in any tank. that prehistoric, armored look is unlike anything else in freshwater. They’re also one of the more misunderstood species when it comes to tankmates. The key thing to understand is that bichirs are ambush predators at night and will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. so small fish and shrimp are off the table. But they’re actually quite peaceful with fish their own size or larger. Get the tankmate selection right and they’re fascinating long-term residents. Here’s what works.

Understanding Them

Bichirs should primarily feed on meat or aquatic invertebrates since they are carnivorous and could live for up to 15 years, making it all the more important to research this ambush predator’s behavior prior to introducing other types of fish into the environment. What’s even more unique about these bottom dwellers is how they take advantage of both their gills and lungs to survive!

We need to keep in mind what makes the Senegal bichir so different from others while looking for suitable tank mates based on our knowledge regarding behaviors such as capabilities before joining two separate worlds within one ecosystem.

Overview Of Types

There are various types of Bichirs, all with different sizes. Below are a few with their average sizes below for reference.

• Dinosaur Bichir – 12 inches
• Ornate Bichir – 24 inches
• Saddled – 30 inches
• Delhezi – 14 inches

For this post, we’ll focus on the Dinosaur Bichir. Other Bichirs will require larger tanks and more careful tankmate selection.

Ambush Predator Nature

Bichirs are ambush predators, so it is necessary to choose tank mates that they cannot view as prey or competition for hiding places. Fish that inhabit the middle and top part of an aquarium and active during the daytime work well. Just ensure there’s sufficient space to establish their individual territories. Silver dollar fish make excellent peaceful partners since conflicts can be prevented this way. If looking at larger types, note aggression levels beforehand too!

With regards to food items like frozen food, one should pick carefully and try to feed separately to avoid aggression. Keep in mind that due to their ambush nature, they will sneak up on fish and eat them. This leaves out the typical fast schooling fish like Danios that can actually be snuck up on and eaten. What I’ve observed over the years (in store display tanks and my own setups) is that the bichir looks completely harmless during daylight hours. It’s motionless, tucked under a piece of driftwood, not bothering anyone. Then the lights go out. That slow, patient fish turns into exactly the ambush predator it is. Fish that survived side-by-side for weeks disappear overnight with no sign of a fight.

Ideal Aquarium Size And Water Parameters

When constructing a habitat for Bichirs, the minimum tank size should be around 55 gallons. It is crucial to ensure that conditions such as water temperature (74-82°F) and pH level (6.2-7.8) are kept stable in order to provide them with an optimal living environment. They prefer a of sandy substrate that replicates their natural freshwater habitats, plus plenty of hiding spots where fish can make themselves at home safely and conduct their ambush behaviors.

The next step would include introducing compatible tank mates who possess particular traits that could easily fit into this established ecosystem alongside our beloved Bichir friends (and not become lunch).

Also, note that Bichirs are compatible with aquatic plants. However, not all fish on this list will be.

Top 10 Bichir Tank Mates

Bichirs should be kept with certain fish species when setting up a community tank to ensure harmony and visual appeal. This diet includes fish that are going to be generally safe to keep with them but be aware that every fish is different and could have a more aggressive or passive personality than what is considered normal for their species. With that, let’s get started.

Expert Take

After 25+ years working with predatory fish (in my own tanks and at the aquarium stores I managed) bichirs are the species that surprises newcomers the most. They look slow and docile during the day, so people assume they’re safe with a much wider range of fish than they actually are. Bichirs are prehistoric fish that have survived 400 million years, which tells you something about their instincts. They’re not aggressive in the cichlid sense, but they are ambush predators that will eat anything that fits in their mouth, and their mouths are larger than they look. I’ve seen bichirs eat large tetras, small cichlids, and feeder goldfish nearly as wide as the bichir’s head. Size is the only reliable protection. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Eels	6 to 150+ inches	20 – 55+ gallons	7/10	High
Silver Dollars	6 inches	75 gallons	9/10	High
Hoplo Catfish	6 inches	40 gallons	7/10	High
Oscars	12+ inches	55 gallons	7/10	High
Tinfoil Barb	14 inches	75 gallons	7/10	High
Knife Fish	14+ inches	100 gallons	6/10	High
Bala Shark	12 inches	125 gallons	7/10	High
Giant Gourami	18 inches	200 gallons	7/10	High
Arowana	2+ feet	250 gallons, 8 foot long tank	6/10	High
Denison Barbs	4 inches	40 gallons	7/10	High
Elephant Nose Fish	9 inches	55 gallons	6/10	High
African Butterfly Fish	6 inches	30 gallons	7/10	High
Clown Loaches	12 inches	100 gallons	6/10	High
Severum	8 inches	55 gallons	7/10	High
Leopard Bush Fish	6 inches	50 gallons	7/10	High

1. Eels

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Various
• Adult Size: 6 to 150+ inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 – 55+ gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Carnivore
• Origin. Various
• Swimming Level. Bottom

Eels make potentially great tank mates. These creatures all prefer to dwell at the bottom of the tank, where they can hide away from potential conflicts with other occupants. This makes them a great fit as peaceful companions in your aquarium environment (with the right fish). With ample hiding spots supplied alongside compatible diets for each species, you’ll be sure that both parties live harmoniously together. Lots of shelter and hiding spots are a must to house both species.

2. Silver Dollars

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus / Metynnis hypsauchen
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Silver Dollars are an ideal addition to a community tank as they are peaceful tank mates and social. These freshwater fish thrive in schools of at least six but will require ample swimming space for them all. They have slim build bodies that make for interesting viewing in the aquarium while having a diet mostly based on plants – they’re omnivores so that other foods may be offered too!

These Silver Dollars can make great companions with Bichirs and other fish. When given proper care and attention, they both create quite an engaging atmosphere within any tank setup. They are very fast and large, which keeps them from getting targeted by your Bichir.

3. Hoplo Catfish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Megalechis thoracata
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Hoplo Catfish are the perfect tank mates for Bichirs due to their peaceful nature, size, and adaptability. Native to South America, these armored bottom dwellers can grow up to 8 inches in length, making them an ideal companion for a Bichir. For optimal living conditions, it is necessary that when housing Hoplo catfish alongside Bichirs you have a minimum of 55 gallons as well as numerous hiding spots with sandy substrate present within the aquarium environment so both species may thrive comfortably together.

Note that this catfish is considered on the riskier end. Not because the fish could get eaten but because Bichirs do have a habit of biting off the whiskers of catfish. Careful observation should be taken and action should be taken immediately if a fish is attacked.

4. Oscars

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

Oscar Fish” class=”wp-image-1059319″/>

• Scientific Name: Astronotus ocellatus
• Adult Size: 12+ inches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 81°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Oscars are large and hardy aquatic creatures that, with the proper precautions taken to prevent aggression between them and Bichirs, can peacefully inhabit the same tank. These fish showcase a dark body complete with bright orange designs on their head as well as fins for extra visual interest in any aquarium setting. Pellets and frozen food will comprise most of an Oscar’s diet, but they also benefit from some live foods such as worms, insects, and occasionally feeder fish (if that’s your thing)!

5. Tinfoil Barb

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanenfeldii
• Adult Size: 14 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 77°F
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. East Asia
• Swimming Level. All

Tinfoil barbs are a highly engaging species native to Southeast Asia that thrive in community tanks. These fish require ample space and an array of dietary components, including both plant-based foods and protein-rich options for best health results. They can grow quite large too!

When housing these active schooling fish with Bichirs, be sure your tank is at least a 6 foot long tank so their needs can be met. With adequate care, Tinfoil Barbs coexist peacefully alongside their tankmates, leading to hours of viewing pleasure from the vibrant aquarium environment created by these two beautiful creatures.

Hard Rule: Any fish smaller than half the bichir’s body length is potential prey. This applies at night especially, bichirs are most active in low light and will take fish that peacefully ignore them during the day.

6. Knife Fish

Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Apteronotus albifrons
• Adult Size: 14+ inches
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 100 gallons
• Care Level: Carnivorous
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to Bottom

When housing Knife Fish with Bichirs, creating an environment suitable for both is essential. This means providing a large tank of at least 125 gallons and plenty of cover to comfortably house both. These peaceful fish need the ability to hide away from light during the day. They must be fed meaty treats, including worms, larvae, shrimp, and other small fish(via silver sides if you go the frozen route) in order to stay healthy, and if adequately cared for, they can make great companions!

Their unique rod-shaped tail without dorsal or caudal fins helps distinguish them as one-of-a-kind amongst aquarium occupants, making excellent tank mates with your Bichir.

7. Bala Shark

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Balantiocheilos melanopterus
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 125 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level. Middle to Top

Bala Sharks are a Southeast Asian species of active, social fish that can grow up to 12 inches long, making them ideal companions for Bichirs. For the best results when keeping Balas with these bottom dwellers, an aquarium size of 125 gallons is necessary, and water conditions must be kept between 72-82°F. They like to socialize and should be kept in groups – hence the larger aquarium size requirement.

With proper care, you can create a thriving, dynamic tank environment where both species happily exist.

8. Giant Gourami

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
• Adult Size: 18 inches
• Water Temperature: 69°F to 86°F
• Minimum tank size: 200 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level – Middle to Top

Giant Gouramis are relatively placid, sizable fish, which can be kept with Bichirs in a suitably spacious tank that includes areas for them to hide. These specimens have the potential to reach up to 18 inches and live an average of 10 years so they provide a good companion option when placed alongside Bichirs.

Tank size is the biggest hurdle to house both a Bichir and a Giant Gourami. The Gouramis themselves need a 200+ gallon aquarium, keeping them out of the reach of many aquarists. However, it’s a great combination if you are able to house them in a tank that large.

9. Arowana

Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Scleropages formosus
• Adult Size: 2+ feet
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 250 gallons, 8 foot long tank
• Care Level: Advanced
• Origin: Amazon
• Swimming Level – Middle to Top

Arowanas, native to tropical climates and growing large in size, are a good companion fish for Bichirs when kept in tanks of 250 gallons or larger. These predatory creatures need a high-protein diet comprised mostly of live foods such as worms, insects, and shrimp as well as frozen meals like fish. When given proper care, including ample space and the right food, Arowanas can create an exciting atmosphere with their tank mates while being healthy simultaneously. As long as you keep a tank large enough, it is possible to keep both species.

10. Denison Barbs

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
• Adult Size: 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Origin: Southern India
• Swimming Level – Middle to Top

Denison barbs are active and social fish native to Southeast Asia. When given enough room for swimming in a community tank with plenty of variety in their diet, these schooling creatures can happily co-exist with Bichirs. With proper care provided by an aquarist, Denison Barbs will create dynamic aquarium life that engages the viewer.

These two fish species in a community tank provide a colorful display when harmoniously kept together. However, careful observation should be made as it is possible for the Bichir to eat them.

11. Elephant Nose Fish

Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Gnathonemus petersii
• Adult Size: 9 inches
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Difficult
• Origin: Africa
• Swimming Level – Bottom of the tank

Elephant Nose Fish are a distinctively sized species of fish that can co-exist well with Bichirs, but in order for this to be the case, they need specific tank conditions. These medium size fish have several characteristics that you should take into consideration when setting up their home. They can act both sensitive and aggressive, and an aquarium not smaller than 50 gallons is required due to their dimensions. Using sand or silt as substrates is essential since these will help protect its delicate trunk from any harm.

Being carnivorous creatures, they must feed on bugs and larvae while also having access to various types of worms & crustaceans. When housing Elephant Noses along side Bichir, provide them generous space plus places where they could hide out – this way preventing possible aggression among them. With good care given by aquarists, Elephant Nose Fish would look splendid swimming alongside your precious finned friends!

12. African Butterfly Fish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Pantodon buchholzi
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Origin: Africa
• Swimming Level – Top

African Butterfly Fish are somewhat aggressive inhabitants of the top-most area in an aquarium and can cohabit with Bichirs when proper conditions are met. Coming from Africa, these fish need to have a tank that is at least 30 gallons large, which provides them plenty of hiding places and live or frozen foods available so they can feed their carnivorous diet. They should work well with Bichirs since they take up difficult aquarium areas.

13. Clown Loaches

Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Botia macracantha
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 85°F
• Minimum tank size: 100 gallons
• Care Level: Difficult
• Origin: Indonesia
• Swimming Level – Bottom

Clown Loaches, native to Southeast Asia and renowned for their playful social nature, make a fun addition to any community tank. To ensure the health of these fish when housed with Bichirs, it is necessary that they be placed in a group. This will push up your tank requirements to the larger tanks available in the hobby.

As long as you take into account such considerations, your entertaining pet clowns will enjoy living alongside other species like Bichirs!

14. Severum

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Adult Size: 8 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 84°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level – Bottom to Mid

Severums, native to South America and growing up to 8 inches in length, are a species of cichlid that can be housed with Bichirs. It is arguably considered the perfect tankmate for a Bichir.

This gentle giant requires at least 75 gallons of aquarium size when housed with a bichir, as well as offering numerous hiding places such as caves or driftwood. They need a balanced diet, including high quality pellets along with frozen foods for optimal growth and health. This is a slam dunk pick that shouldn’t have issues with each other as long as you have a large enough aquarium.

15. Leopard Bush Fish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Ctenopoma acutirostre
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 50 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Origin: Africa
• Swimming Level – Bottom to Mid

Leopard Bush Fish, native to Africa with an attractive yellowy-brown color and dark spots all over their tall bodies, is a visually striking addition compatible in community tanks. These ambush predators need at least 50 gallons of water and should have plenty of hiding places such as hides or caves for them to feel safe. They must get fed live or frozen items like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and other meat based meals on a regular basis for proper care.

They could get eaten by larger Bichirs, but Dinosaur Bichirs should be fine.

Honorable Mentions

We left some fish off our list since we limited ourselves to 15. Here are some others you can consider.

• Convict Cichlid
• Pink Convict Cichlid
• Blue Acara
• Peacock Bass

Bad Choices

When selecting suitable tank mates for Bichirs, it’s important to be mindful of size, aggression levels, and other particular needs. Opting for tankmates such as fish species that are less aggressive, at least a medium size, and aren’t slow will increase your chances of success. In saying this, here are a few fish species to avoid:

• Small schooling nano fish
• Danios – while fast, they will get ambushed
• Small cichlids
• Corydoras catfish – too small
• Bettas
• Plecos – they will suck on the slime coat of the Bichir
• Any fish on this list purchased small – while they could be compatible as adults juvenile fish like Bala Sharks could be snacks for a Bichir when small! I’ve made this mistake myself, a fish that looked big enough at the store was gone two weeks later. The bichir didn’t even leave evidence. If it fits in the mouth at night, it’s gone.

Mark’s Pick: Large cichlids (Oscar, green terror, or large South American species) are the safest tank mates. They’re big enough to ignore and aggressive enough to defend themselves if the bichir gets curious.

Frequently Asked Questions

Who Is This Setup Right For?

Good Fit If:

• You have a large tank (75+ gallons) with medium to large companion fish
• You want a prehistoric-looking display fish to anchor a large predator tank
• You keep fish that are clearly too large to be eaten (6 inches / 15 cm+)
• You enjoy watching unusual nocturnal behavior and feeding responses

Avoid If:

• You have fish under 4 inches (10 cm), they will be eaten eventually, usually at night
• You want active schooling fish, bichirs outpace slow schools at feeding time
• You plan to keep them with other bottom dwellers that compete for territory and hiding spots
• You want a daytime display fish, bichirs spend most of the day motionless

Closing Thoughts

When selecting tank mates for Bichirs, it is important to consider the size, aggression levels, and needs of each fish species. I hope this list is of use to you in finding the right tankmates for your setup. Ultimately, every Bichir is different. They can be model citizens or absolute terrors. Always have a backup plan when it comes to any fish that can be aggressive or eat fish.

Have you kept Bichirs with fish before? Let us know in the comments below what your experience has been with keep a Dinosaur Bichir Tank. Thank you for reading and see you next time!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Overfeeding is one of the most common mistakes I see with bettas. and it’s not because people don’t care, it’s because bettas act like they’re starving even when they’re not. Their stomachs are roughly the size of their eye, which means a few pellets is genuinely enough per feeding. I feed my bettas once or twice a day, small amounts, and skip a day once a week to let their digestive system clear out. That simple routine prevents the bloating and constipation issues that cut a lot of bettas’ lives short. Here’s the full breakdown of what I actually do.

1. Your tank set-up
2. The personality and age of your betta fish
3. Fish food

Therefore, in this article, I won’t give a generic, one-size-fits-all response. Instead, you’ll get complete guidelines about your betta fish feeding regime, food options, etc.

Stay with me to explore more about this exciting topic!

Types Of Food

According to a recent study,

“The growth rate, weight gain, and final weight of Siamese fighting fish were exceptional with mixed diet treatment, i.e., a varied diet.”

And rightfully so.

Since betta fish are strictly omnivores, they need a varied diet to ensure optimal health. We, as their owners, need to overcome any nutritional value deficiencies in foods in order to promote breeding and natural behaviors.

Therefore, fish experts suggest feeding betta fish a balanced diet that contains live food, frozen foods, commercial food, and vegetables.

Pellet foods

Betta pellets are the most common food for betta fish because they provide all the essential nutrients required for the optimal growth of your fish. However, refrain from getting inferior-quality pellets as they cause more harm than good.

My favorite betta fish pellets are Fluval’s bug bites formula because wild betta’s diet mainly comprises insect larvae, and the primary ingredient of these pellets is Black Solider Fly larvae. Therefore, it is the perfect diet with the perfect size to fit small mouths of betta fish.

You can also get floating pellets because betta have upturned mouths and are surface feeders.

Live Food

When it comes to feeding your betta, they thrive on live food as in the wild. Their diet mainly contains insects and small crustaceans. Therefore, captive betta should be fed brine shrimp, daphnia, mosquito larvae, and blood worms to replicate their natural diet and stimulate their hunting instincts.

If live food is not available in your nearest pet stores, you can also make your own live food with baby brine shrimp eggs. In a few days, you’ll have a wholesome colony of baby brine shrimp that you can feed betta fish easily. You can also opt to grow your own worms, but that is a messy process and better suited for larger aquarium setups where all the worms can be eaten quickly

Frozen food or freeze-dried foods

If you don’t have live food or cannot make your own live food, freeze-dried of frozen food is an excellent option. You can get blood worms, brine shrimp, and daphnia in freeze-dried food form and let your betta fish enjoy the flavor and nutritional value.

Vegetables

Although bettas are not very fond of vegetables, occasionally feeding as treats are highly recommended to improve their digestive system. Peas are best used to aid in digestion.

Flake Foods

Flake foods are not recommended for bettas because they are not as nutritionally dense compared to other fish food options. However, you can feed them if you really want. Lean on using betta food made in flake form if you want to use this type of food.

How Often Should They Be Fed – Factors To Consider

There are some factors to consider before setting a betta fish feeding schedule.

Age

The age of your betta fish largely impacts your food intake. Young betta or betta fry need more food than adult betta fish. However, adults require only once or twice feedings a day.

Size

After age, the size of your betta fish should be an indicator of your feeding frequency. The bigger the fish, the more food they need.

Activity Level

If you have short-finned betta fish, such as Plakats, you know they are more active than your long-finned betta varieties. And thus, they need more food and energy. The size of your tank will matter too. Fish in small tanks will not be as active, while fish in larger setups with other fish to interact with will be more active.

In short, the more active your fish is, the more food they need.

Stomach Size

Your betta fish’s stomach is the most prominent factor in determining your betta fish feeding. If your betta fish has a rounded stomach, it has had a hearty meal and is now happy.

However, make sure your betta doesn’t have a bloated stomach, as it can lead to constipation and other digestive issues.

Visible Swim Bladder

One of the most important factors to look out for is the prominence of the swim bladder in your betta, which is present near the tail of your betta fish.

If it’s easily visible, your betta fish is severely underweight, and you should increase the amount of food you’re feeding betta fish. However, if the swim bladder is not visible at all, chances are your betta is absolutely healthy, and you don’t need to adjust its diet.

Water Temperature

Since betta fish are tropical fish, they prefer warm water. And so, their metabolism also increases with warmer water temperatures. Thus, need more food.

How often?

So, you’ve already sorted out your preferred food for your betta fish and the condition of your betta fish is also clear. It’s time to answer the most asked question: How often to feed betta fish food?

If your fish is already healthy, feed an adult betta fish once or twice a day, provided your tank is adjusted at the ideal water temperature and the water quality is also pristine. I recommend spacing the fish meal at least 8 hours apart into smaller feedings if you’re feeding twice a day.

In the case of juveniles, you can feed a betta fish several times a day, provided that you’re not overfeeding and offering appropriate amounts.

However, if your fish is breeding, spread out more frequent meals at a 4 to 6-hourly gap and make sure your fish eat food within 2 minutes

Fish experts also recommend having one fasting day a week to keep the digestive system on track and reduce the risk of bloating and constipation.

How many pellets do I feed them in a meal?

Pellet food size differs from brand to brand, so the answer is subjective. Follow the package instructions and feed a betta fish the amount of pellet food that fits their mouth. As a rule of thumb 4-7 pellets is okay to use in a feeding.

How To Prevent Overeating

Betta fish are voracious eaters. Wild bettas eat whatever they can whenever they find it. Therefore, if you have a wild-caught betta fish, chances are it will end up overeating and bloating.

Of course, overeating leads to several health issues in betta fish, such as obesity, swim bladder disease, and digestive issues.

Therefore, it is important to control their diet and ensure what you provide is a balanced and healthy diet. Always feed your betta fish the recommended daily amount of food and clean the excess food or too much uneaten food after each feed with a net or turkey baster. 

Fry And Juvenile Considerations

After 3 days of hatching, the yolk is attached to a fry. Therefore, it will feed off the yolk sac for the first 48 hours. After 48 hours, betta fry will search and hunt for food. It is recommended to feed insect larvae or infusoria or baby brine shrimp to young bettas as this food is much like a liquid. You can also feed them live food as it is full of nutrients and easy to hunt. 

However, make sure the amount you’re feeding to young bettas should be bite-sized

What To Do If They Aren’t Hungry

The good part about betta fish’s diet is it can go without eating for 10-14 days. So, even if you forget to feed them for a couple of days, they should be okay.

However, there are a few concerns if your betta fish stops eating altogether.

Stress

There are several reasons for stress in betta fish. It could be due to changes in water temperature, tank decors, environmental change, or the introduction of new tank mates. Mostly, the change in water temperature doesn’t do well for bettas. Therefore, I always recommend installing an aquarium water thermometer and heater to control the temperature.

Small Tank

The other reason could be insufficient swimming space. Though bettas are not surprisingly active fish, they still need at least a 5 gallon tank to thrive as a solo fish or 10 gallons to have other fish tankmates. Betta fish kept in small bowls or small tanks mostly stop eating and become unhappy. Therefore, always ensure your betta has a lot of swimming space and tank decors to explore the tank.

Aging

If your betta is not eating the amount of food it usually does, that’s because it is growing old. As betta age, they become less active and eat less food. 

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Betta fish are beautiful creatures that bring a spark to your aquarium. A healthy, happy betta is essential to keeping your home aquariums colorful and playful. Therefore, it is recommended to feed them twice a day with the recommended portion size to avoid issues like bloating, constipation, and other digestive problems. 

Make sure you feed high-quality, protein-based food to your female bettas and male bettas to ensure they’re up to the task of mating. 

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Female bettas are considerably more community-friendly than males, but they still need the right tank mates. I’ve kept female betta sororities and community tanks over the years and the compatibility questions come up constantly. Here’s my honest guide to which species actually coexist peacefully with female bettas.

Female bettas get overlooked in a lot of tank mate discussions that focus entirely on males. but they have their own personality quirks worth understanding before you start pairing them up. In my experience, females are generally far more community-friendly than males, but they’re still bettas: they can and will establish a pecking order, and certain fin-heavy tank mates will still trigger aggression. The good news is the pool of compatible species is much larger. Here are the 15 tank mates I’d actually recommend, with honest notes on which ones work consistently and which need more careful monitoring.

• Scientific Name: Atyopsis Mollucensis
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Compatibility: High
• Care Level: Moderate
• Water Temperature: 68-77°F
• Diet: Filter feeder
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

Bamboo shrimp are peaceful invertebrates that make a unique addition to any betta tank, helping to keep the water clean and healthy (video source). As such, they need an environment with plenty of plants for cover. It’s essential if you want them to be comfortable in their new home. With this setup, these shrimp can coexist perfectly alongside other aquatic species like Bettas, creating beautiful scenery within your aquarium!

Fish To Avoid

When setting up a community tank for female bettas, it is important to pick the right fish species that are compatible and won’t be aggressive towards them. Species such as cichlids, tiger barbs, or any fish that could fit them in their mouths should definitely be avoided since they can cause harm to your beautiful fish.

To ensure an environment where all of its inhabitants will have peace and harmony among themselves, you must consider each one’s temperament along with water parameter requirements before selecting any tank mates for a female betta’s home.

It would also make sense to stay away from anything incompatible so there is no threat to the health or happiness of our beloved creatures. This way, we create peaceful surroundings where everyone can enjoy together.

Creating A Peaceful Community Aquarium

Creating a peaceful and beautiful aquarium filled with female bettas and their compatible tank mates is both enjoyable and rewarding. The key to success in this endeavor lies in understanding the particular needs of your female betta fish, along with those of their partners, while providing them with an appropriate habitat.

Here are a few general tips for picking out tankmates that may not be on this list:

• Choose tankmates that tolerate higher temperatures (78 degrees Fahrenheit)
• Introduce the most aggressive fish last
• Choose fish of similar sizes and temperatures. For schooling fish, having a large school helps
• Pick mid and bottom dwelling fish over surface dwellers to prevent any aggression issues

All such considerations will help maintain balance within a community tank, allowing you to enjoy harmonious living among colorful creatures without worrying about turf wars!

Frequently Asked Questions

Female Betta Tank Mates at a Glance

Fish	Compatibility	Notes
Corydoras	Excellent	Bottom dwellers, peaceful, do not compete for territory
Otocinclus	Excellent	Algae cleaners, tiny and non-threatening
Ember Tetra	Good	Small, fast, peaceful schoolers
Harlequin Rasbora	Good	Mid-water schoolers, peaceful
Amano Shrimp	Good	Large enough to avoid being eaten, good cleanup crew
Nerite Snails	Excellent	Algae control, ignored by bettas
Male Guppies	Poor	Flowing fins trigger betta aggression
Gouramis	Poor	Compete for territory, similar body shape to bettas

Closing Thoughts

To sum up, having a successful community tank with your female bettas and their compatible mates can be enjoyable as well as rewarding. By recognizing the particular traits and habits of female betta fish, along with selecting fitting aquarium partners accordingly, you’ll have an eye-catching and peaceful environment in which to house them.

We wish this guide gave you all that is necessary so your aquatic community will thrive. Bear in mind that comprehending -and considering specific requirements of both the female bettas together with its tankmates should always come first! With luck on your side, everything should go smoothly. enjoy setting it up!

Rainbow sharks are one of the most visually striking freshwater fish you can put in a community tank, and one of the most misunderstood when it comes to compatibility. That dark blue body with vivid orange-red fins turns heads. But before you build a stocking list around them, you need to understand something fundamental: the rainbow shark owns the bottom of your tank.

You don’t keep a rainbow shark in a community tank. You build a community tank around a rainbow shark.

Get it right and you’ve got a spectacular display fish that anchors the whole setup. Get it wrong: add a second shark, a red-tailed shark, or a tank full of corydoras, and you’ll have stressed, injured, or dead fish within weeks.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot) After 25+ years in the hobby, I’ve kept rainbow sharks with most of the species on this list, the first two weeks tell you everything about whether the stocking is going to work. Rainbow sharks are one of the most misunderstood fish sold as ‘community-compatible.’ They’re territorial toward anything that resembles them, other bottom-dwellers, fish with red markings, other sharks, and they defend that territory aggressively, especially after settling in for a few weeks. I’ve seen keepers add tank mates to an established rainbow shark tank and lose fish they’d had for months. The tank needs to be big, the fish need to be carefully chosen, and the shark goes in last.

Understanding Rainbow Shark Behavior

With their dark blue bodies and vivid orange or red-black fins, rainbow sharks are a popular addition to freshwater aquariums. The albino variant, white body, red fins, is equally striking. But looks are the easy part. Behavior is what determines whether your tank works.

Aggression and Territorial Nature

Rainbow sharks are bottom-territory fish. They pick a zone, usually around caves, driftwood, or rocky structures at the substrate level, and they enforce it. In practice, that means the shark patrols a defined stretch of the bottom, darting out to bluff-charge or chase anything that crosses into its zone. The first few days after introduction it’s often calm. By day 5 to 14, as the shark settles in and establishes its territory, the aggression ramps up noticeably. Any fish that drifts into that zone gets chased. Slow fish get nipped. Fish that look like the shark, anything with red fins, a similar body shape, or a “shark-like” profile, get attacked outright.

I’ve watched this pattern play out consistently: the introduction looks fine, then days 5–14 hit and the shark starts enforcing its territory in earnest. The fish that work are the ones that stay out of the bottom zone, move fast enough that the shark can’t corner them, or are large enough that the shark doesn’t bother trying. Everything else is a problem waiting to happen.

What People Get Wrong

The most common mistake is treating rainbow sharks like a semi-aggressive community fish that just needs “compatible” tank mates. That framing misses the point. It’s not about compatibility in the usual sense; it’s about not competing for the bottom zone. Three specific scenarios cause the most damage:

• Keeping two rainbow sharks together. One will dominate and chase the other without stopping. In tanks under 150 gallons (568 L), the subordinate fish will likely die from stress even if there are no visible injuries. Even in larger tanks, this rarely ends well.
• Adding a red-tailed shark. These two species share almost identical territorial instincts. They will fight until one is dead or permanently mutilated. Do not attempt this.
• Loading the bottom with corydoras or loaches. These fish compete directly for the bottom zone. The shark will chase them constantly. It’s stressful for the corys, stressful for the shark, and a tank that never settles.

Biggest Mistake: Two Rainbow Sharks

Keeping two rainbow sharks in the same tank is the single most common and most harmful error. People assume a bigger tank will give them enough space. It won’t. These fish don’t divide territory equally. One establishes dominance and pursues the other relentlessly. The subordinate shark stops eating, hides constantly, and dies. One rainbow shark per tank. No exceptions, no matter the tank size.

Ideal Tank Size and Parameters

Rainbow sharks need space, not just volume, but footprint. The tank needs to be at least 50 gallons (189 L) with a 4-foot (122 cm) length minimum. Anything shorter and the shark can see and reach every corner, which means it spends all its time policing the whole tank instead of settling into a defined territory.

Water parameters: pH 6.0–8.0, hardness 3–14 dKH, temperature 72°F–79°F (22°C–26°C). Nitrates should stay under 40 ppm. Zero ammonia and zero nitrite, like any healthy freshwater setup. Decorations like rocks, driftwood, and caves give the shark a defined territory to claim, which actually reduces roaming aggression.

Top 15 Rainbow Shark Tank Mates

Every fish on this list works because it either stays in the mid-to-upper water column (out of the shark’s territory), moves fast enough to avoid confrontation, or is assertive enough to handle itself if approached. Build the school sizes recommended here, underschooled fish are more likely to become targets.

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Tiger Barbs	– 4 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Gouramis	4 – 7 inches	30 gallons	9/10	High
Congo Tetra	3- 4 inches	30 gallons	9/10	High
Rainbowfish	4- 5 inches	40 gallons	7/10	High
Bristlenose Pleco	4 to 5 inches	30 gallons	9/10	High
Danio Fish	1 – 4 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Severum	8 inches	55 gallon tank	7/10	High
Odessa Barbs	3 inches	30 gallons	9/10	High
Black Shirt Tetra	3 inches	15 gallons	9/10	High
Blue Acara	6 inches	40 gallons	7/10	High
Scissortail Rasbora	3.5 inches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Harlequin Rasbora	1.75 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Cory Catfish	2 to 3 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Hillstream Loach	2.0 to 2.5 inches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Hemichormis Exsul	4 inches	29 gallons	7/10	High

1. Tiger Barbs

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
• Life Span: 5 to 7 years
• Adult Size: up to 4 inches (10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73°F–86°F (23°C–30°C)
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid

Tiger Barbs are one of the best choices for a rainbow shark tank, they’re fast, they school tightly in groups of 8 or more, and they spend their time in the mid-water column where the shark has no interest. Keep at least 8 together. A smaller group turns their fin-nipping energy inward toward each other or toward slower tank mates, which defeats the point.

Hard Rule: One rainbow shark per tank. No exceptions, no matter the tank size. Two rainbow sharks means one dead rainbow shark, eventually, without fail.

2. Gouramis

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus spp.
• Life Span: 4 to 6 years
• Adult Size: 4–7 inches (10–18 cm)
• Water Temperature: 76°F–82°F (24°C–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy to Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: East Asia
• Swimming Level: Top to Mid

Medium-to-large gouramis work well with rainbow sharks because they stay toward the middle and upper water column, are big enough that the shark won’t bother them, and aren’t interested in the bottom zone. Blue Gourami, Pearl Gourami, and Moonlight Gourami are the best picks. Avoid dwarf gouramis, they’re too small and too slow, and the shark will harass them.

3. Congo Tetra

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
• Life Span: 3 to 5 years
• Adult Size: 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73°F–82°F (23°C–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Africa (Congo Basin)
• Swimming Level: Top to Mid

Congo Tetras are a great visual contrast to a rainbow shark, their iridescent shimmer in the mid-water against the shark’s bold colors makes for a striking display. Keep them in schools of 6 or more. They’re fast, peaceful, and completely uninterested in the bottom of the tank, which means they’re invisible to the shark’s territorial radar.

4. Rainbowfish

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia spp.
• Life Span: 5 to 8 years
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72°F–77°F (22°C–25°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Australia and Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Middle

Rainbowfish are fast, active swimmers that stay in the middle column and are too quick for the shark to bother. Their water temperature requirements (72°F–77°F / 22°C–25°C) run slightly cooler than the rainbow shark’s preferred range, so keep the tank toward the lower end of both species’ comfort zones. Boesemani and Australian rainbowfish are good fits at this size.

5. Bristlenose Pleco

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
• Life Span: 5 to 12 years
• Adult Size: 4 to 5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73°F–80°F (23°C–27°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: Amazon Basin
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Bristlenose Plecos are the one bottom-dwelling exception that works reliably with rainbow sharks. Their armored body, sucker mouth, and general disinterest in anything but algae and the glass make them almost invisible to the shark’s territorial instincts. The rainbow shark will occasionally investigate or bluff-charge the pleco, the pleco ignores it completely. Plenty of caves and wood for each fish is still important in a 50+ gallon (189+ L) tank.

6. Danio Fish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Danio spp.
• Life Span: up to 5 years
• Adult Size: 1–4 inches (2.5–10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 64°F–75°F (18°C–24°C)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: All levels

Danios are fast enough that a rainbow shark can’t catch them even if it tries. Giant danios and pearl danios are the best picks, they’re large enough not to look like an easy target and they spend their time in the upper portions of the tank. Zebra danios work too but note their temperature preference runs cooler (64°F–75°F / 18°C–24°C), so they’re better suited to tanks kept toward the lower end of the rainbow shark’s range.

7. Severum

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Life Span: 7 to 10 years
• Adult Size: 8 inches (20 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75°F–84°F (24°C–29°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom to Mid

A Severum is large enough that the rainbow shark gives it a wide berth. These peaceful cichlids don’t compete for the substrate in the same focused way the shark does, and their size means the shark’s bluff-charges don’t land. The one caveat: a breeding pair of severums will become territorial themselves, at which point you’ve got two territorial species in the same space. In a 75+ gallon (284+ L) tank with plenty of structure, this is manageable, in anything smaller, it’s a problem.

8. Odessa Barbs

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
• Life Span: 3 to 5 years
• Adult Size: 3 inches (7.5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 70°F–78°F (21°C–26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Asia (Myanmar)
• Swimming Level: Middle

Odessa Barbs (video source) are underrated for this setup. They’re fast, they school in the midwater, and the males’ red stripe actually looks good paired with the shark’s red fins. Keep at least 6, preferably 8. A group this size stays busy with each other and doesn’t drift toward the bottom where the shark will notice them.

9. Black Skirt Tetra

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
• Life Span: 3 to 5 years
• Adult Size: 3 inches (7.5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 70°F–82°F (21°C–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons (57 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle

Black Skirt Tetras are a solid mid-water schooling fish that stays well clear of the bottom. Keep them in a school of 8 or more, a large group curbs any fin-nipping tendency and gives them enough confidence to ignore the shark entirely. They’re not the most dramatic fish in the tank visually, but they’re reliable and hardy enough to handle a more aggressive tank environment.

10. Blue Acara

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Andinoacara pulcher
• Life Span: 7 to 10 years
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 74°F–82°F (23°C–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Hybrid (selective breeding)
• Swimming Level: Middle to Bottom

The Electric Blue Acara is large enough to handle the shark’s attention and assertive enough to stand its ground. Space is the critical requirement, a 4-foot (122 cm) tank minimum, with plenty of structure so the shark can claim one end and the acara can do its own thing in the mid-zone. The one watch-out: if the acara breeds, it becomes more territorial itself. In a smaller tank, that’s a conflict waiting to happen.

11. Scissortail Rasbora

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Rasbora trilineata
• Life Span: 5 years
• Adult Size: 3.5 inches (9 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73°F–78°F (23°C–26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Middle

Scissortail Rasboras thrive in larger tanks and prefer the open middle zone, which makes them a natural fit with Rainbow Sharks. Keep them in schools of 8+. Their constant mid-water movement keeps them visible and active, which actually distracts the shark’s attention and reduces fixation on any single tank mate.

12. Harlequin Rasbora

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Life Span: 5 to 8 years
• Adult Size: 1.75 inches (4.5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 71°F–80°F (22°C–27°C)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South Asia
• Swimming Level: Middle

Harlequin Rasboras are one of the cleanest choices for this setup, they’re in the mid-water, they school tightly, and they’re completely uninterested in the bottom zone. In a planted 55-gallon (208 L) tank, a school of 12–15 harlequins looks spectacular while leaving the shark to do its thing undisturbed. Like the scissortail, keep the school large.

13. Cory Catfish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup, with caveats.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Life Span: 7 to 10 years
• Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches (5–7.5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72°F–77°F (22°C–25°C)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons (38 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Cory Catfish are bottom-dwellers living in the shark’s territory, so this pairing requires the right conditions to work. In a large tank, 75 gallons (284 L) or more, with plenty of caves and structure at the substrate level, the shark claims one zone and the cories operate in another. The shark will chase them occasionally, that’s unavoidable, but a large school of 8+ cories in a properly sized tank gives them safety in numbers. In tanks under 55 gallons (208 L), this combination creates constant stress for the cories and isn’t worth attempting.

14. Hillstream Loach

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Sewellia lineolata
• Life Span: 5 to 10 years
• Adult Size: 2.0 to 2.5 inches (5–6 cm)
• Water Temperature: 64°F–80°F (18°C–27°C)
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons (76 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Vietnam
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Hillstream Loaches are bottom-dwelling fish that hug the glass and rocks with their sucker-like body, they barely move in the way the shark cares about. The rainbow shark will occasionally dart at them, but hillstream loaches are quick and their flat body profile means the shark can’t get a grip. High flow rate, rocky surfaces, and a group of 3–5 loaches in a large tank makes this combination work. It’s not beginner-simple, but it’s doable.

15. Hemichromis Exsul

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Rubricatochromis exsul
• Life Span: 5 to 10 years
• Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73°F–80°F (23°C–27°C)
• Minimum tank size: 29 gallons (110 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Kenya (Lake Turkana)
• Swimming Level: Mid to Top

Hemichromis Exsul (video source), also known as the Turkana Jewel Cichlid, is a mid-water cichlid that will stand its ground if the rainbow shark approaches. They’re not aggressive like standard Jewel Cichlids, but they’re assertive enough that the shark learns to leave them alone. Space is the biggest factor, a 4-foot (122 cm) tank with clear zone separation gives both fish room to establish their own areas without constant friction.

Mark’s Pick: If I were building this tank today, I’d go with tiger barbs in a group of 8+ and a school of Congo tetras in the mid-water. Both are too fast for the shark to corner, neither touches the bottom zone, and together they create a visually active display that makes the tank look intentional, the shark owns the floor, the barbs and tetras own everything above it. That’s the setup that works.

Fish to Avoid

Iffy Choices, Proceed With Caution

I always recommend giving rainbow sharks plenty of horizontal swimming space and clearly defined territories, that’s the single biggest thing I tell new keepers. These fish are commonly considered but come with real risks. Research each thoroughly before attempting:

• Angelfish, Possible, but 60/40 odds. Long fins make them a target. In very large, structured tanks they sometimes work.
• African Cichlids, Africans will bully the shark, not the other way around.
• Green Terrors. The green terror may turn on the shark as it matures.
• Oscars, Highly individual temperament; some work, some don’t.

Bad Choices, Don’t Try It

• Red-Tailed Shark, Same territorial instincts, same bottom zone. One will die. Full stop.
• Second Rainbow Shark, Same result. Don’t.
• Betta Fish, Slow, long-finned, and they’ll be targeted constantly.
• Dwarf Shrimp, Will be eaten. Not occasionally, systematically.
• Discus, Too slow, too fragile, and the shark’s aggression will cause chronic stress that kills discus before you notice anything is wrong.

Tips for Introduction

The right fish list gets you halfway there. How you introduce them gets you the rest of the way. The rainbow shark is most aggressive toward fish added to its established territory, so the order matters. Follow this:

• Add the shark last. A newly introduced shark is focused on orienting itself, it’s far less aggressive than an established one defending known territory.
• Rearrange the decor before adding the shark. Breaking up the existing territorial markers resets the dynamic and makes the shark treat the whole tank as new rather than defending an established zone.
• Use a breeder box for the first 24–48 hours. Let the shark see its tank mates through mesh before full contact. It reduces the initial aggression spike significantly.
• Provide multiple caves and sight-line breaks at the bottom level. If the shark can’t see other fish from its primary cave, it won’t chase them.
• Watch for the first 2 weeks closely. Aggression from a rainbow shark ramps up as it settles in, the first few days look fine, then problems appear around days 5–14 as it establishes territory.

Is This Setup Right for You?

Good Fit If:

• You have a 55+ gallon (208+ L) tank with at least a 4-foot (122 cm) footprint and plenty of caves, driftwood, and sight-line breaks
• Your planned tank mates are medium-to-large, fast-moving fish that stay in the mid-to-upper water column
• You’re adding the rainbow shark as your last fish, not your first
• You want a bold, territorial bottom fish that creates a dynamic display tank

Avoid If:

• You want to keep two rainbow sharks, they’ll fight and one will die
• Your existing fish are slow-moving, long-finned, or occupy the bottom zone
• Your tank is under 50 gallons (189 L), the shark needs enough territory to settle without cornering every other fish
• You keep red-tailed sharks, bala sharks, or other “shark” species, the territorial conflict is predictable and severe

Frequently Asked Questions

Can rainbow sharks live with other sharks?

No. Not with red-tailed sharks, not with other rainbow sharks. These species share the same territorial instincts and the same bottom zone. In 25+ years of keeping and recommending fish, this is one of the questions I get most often, and the answer never changes. In every tank I’ve seen attempted, one fish dominates and the other either dies from injuries or chronic stress. Even in large tanks, the constant aggression makes this a losing setup. One shark per tank, that’s the rule.

What is the minimum tank size for a rainbow shark with tank mates?

50 gallons (189 L) is the floor, but 75 gallons (284 L) gives you real flexibility. The footprint matters more than volume, a 55-gallon (208 L) tank that’s 4 feet (122 cm) long is far better than a taller, shorter 55 that gives the shark nowhere to establish a distinct territory.

Will rainbow sharks kill their tank mates?

I personally recommend this pairing based on experience. I’ve kept these two together at the stores I managed without major issues when the tank was large enough. Rarely through direct attack, more often through chronic stress. A fish that’s being chased constantly stops eating, loses color, and eventually dies. The most at-risk fish are slow swimmers, bottom-dwellers entering the shark’s zone, and anything with long fins the shark interprets as a threat display. Pick the right tank mates and this isn’t a concern.

Can cory catfish live with rainbow sharks?

Yes, with conditions. The shark will chase corydoras because they share the bottom zone. In a large tank, 75 gallons (284 L) or more, with plenty of bottom structure and a school of 8+ cories, both fish can coexist. In tanks under 55 gallons (208 L), the constant chasing makes this combination stressful for the corydoras and isn’t worth attempting.

Should I add the rainbow shark first or last?

Last. Always last. A rainbow shark that’s already established in the tank is far more aggressive toward newcomers than one being introduced to a tank where other fish are already present. When the shark goes in last, it has to orient itself rather than defend existing territory, which dramatically reduces the initial aggression.

What fish look good with a rainbow shark visually?

Tiger barbs complement the shark’s orange-red fin color. Congo tetras add iridescent shimmer in the mid-water. Boesemani rainbowfish bring orange-blue contrast that plays off the shark’s coloration. Build the mid-water layer with color and movement, the shark provides the drama at the bottom level, and the mid-water fish complete the display.

Closing Thoughts

After 25+ years in this hobby, I recommend rainbow sharks to intermediate keepers who have done their homework on semi-aggressive species. I’ve never regretted keeping them. After keeping and recommending rainbow sharks for over 25 years, I’ll tell you this: Rainbow sharks are a statement fish. That dark body, those vivid red fins, that territorial swagger across the bottom of the tank, nothing else does what they do in a freshwater setup. But they require the tank to be built around them, not alongside them.

One shark per tank. Fast mid-water schoolers that stay out of the bottom zone. A 50+ gallon (189+ L) footprint with real structure. Shark goes in last. Follow those four rules and you’ve got a display tank that looks intentional and runs smoothly. Ignore them and you’ll be troubleshooting aggression problems within two weeks.

Got questions about your specific stocking list? Drop them in the comments, happy to help you figure out if your planned setup will work.

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📚 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Convict cichlids are one of my favorite Central American cichlids. tough, personality-driven fish that are entertaining to watch but genuinely challenging to pair with tank mates. I’ve kept convicts over the years and finding compatible companions requires understanding exactly how territorial they get. Here’s what I’ve found actually works.

Ah, the Convict Cichlid. This is one of the more difficult fish to find a tankmate for. They are aggressive and territorial and are extremely prolific breeders. In this blog post, we do all the research for you so you can choose the best Convict Cichlid Tank Mates for your aquarium. Ready to get started? Let me provide a quick summary first:

Understanding Them

Known as Zebra Cichlids, Convict Cichlids are aggressive fish that tend to be territorial. In the wild, they usually inhabit bigger rivers and streams near rocks and branches that have been sunken for shelter. These omnivorous creatures can reach up to 6 inches in size with nine black stripes across a paler body, sometimes showing hints of pinkish hue.

Behavior And Temperament

When considering tankmates for Convict Cichlids, it can be tricky due to their highly territorial nature. It is usually advised against keeping them in community tanks with other incompatible fish species as this may cause aggression issues. To create a more calming environment, there should also be plenty of hiding places within the space, plus decorations. As these fish are heavy breeders, it’s best to keep them as a solo species in a tank with other fish. The added aggression when the breed can be too much for many other fish.

Ideal Tank Requirements And Parameters

When caring for Convict Cichlids, it is essential to provide the ideal tank environment. The optimal conditions include a pH between 6.5 – 8.0, water temperature of 74-84°F and hardness at 9-20 dkH. This wide range of parameters give you a ton of options when it comes to potential tankmates. However, we have to keep in mind the other fish’s nature and size.

The Top 15 Convict Cichlid Tank Mates

Finding suitable tank mates for your Convict Cichlids is no simple task, so we’ve made a list of the best options to choose from. We took into account compatibility, size, temperament, and needs when selecting these fish – from peaceful bottom dwellers as well as more vibrant semi-aggressive freshwater fish species, can be found in this carefully crafted selection.

No matter, if you need something calm or aggressive for your cichlid tank setup, our top picks are sure to have what you’re looking for!

1. Severum

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Adult Size: 8 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 84°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to mid

Severum, a South American cichlid species known for its peaceful nature, can be kept in the same tank as Convicts. To keep both fish happy and content, it’s crucial to create several distinct hiding places and territories within the aquarium. Although these Cichlids usually tolerate one another well, Convicts may show aggression towards other types of fish, so close observation is recommended when introducing new specimens.

The Severum can sometimes act as a peacekeeper if they become the dominant fish in the tank, which is a high probability if all other fish are smaller than them. Fortunately, the Severum handles its top dog status with grace!

2. Electric Blue Acara

• Scientific Name: Andinoacara pulcher
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Hybrid
• Swimming Level. Middle to Bottom

The Electric Blue Acara is a hybrid cichlid that makes for an ideal Convict Cichlid tank mate due to their similar size and care requirements. Renowned for its docile behavior, this colorful, stunning fish can add visual beauty as well being able to stand up to your Convict’s aggression.

That being said, you should keep close watch over them in case any signs of aggression begin developing between the two species. Your best chances would be if the Acara is larger and is introduced first into the display tank.

3. Green Terror

• Scientific Name: Andinoacara rivulatus
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 80°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. All

The Green Terror is a cichlid that boasts beautiful colors and an aggressive demeanor, which, when given ample room to swim as well as hiding areas, can make it the ideal tankmate for convict cichlids.

Despite their combative personality, having them present in your aquarium could be beneficial by shifting their aggression away from any other fish co-inhabiting the environment. Make sure you provide enough space so these vibrant swimmers can remain healthy and thrive. Supplying havens for both fish will help them find security while allowing others to dwell peacefully beside them without fear of danger or attack.

The Green Terror is generally more aggressive than the Convict, so you should introduce it after the convict. You need at least a 75 gallon tank to ensure the highest chance of success.

4. Pleco Fish

• Scientific Name: Various
• Adult Size: 4 – 12 inches +
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F
• Minimum tank size: 40+ gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Herbivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom

Pleco Fish make great tankmates for Convict Cichlids since they provide algae control and eat up leftover food. They have armor on their scales that can take a beating, though generally they are left alone as long as you get at least a medium sized species like a Bristle nose or Tiger Pleco.

To guarantee a healthy habitat for them, it’s best to have plenty of places where they can take refuge while still having adequate space in the cichlid tank. Your main issue here is not select a Pleco species that gets extremely large, like a common pleco. Stick to the medium sized species, and you should be good to go!

5. Large Tetras

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• Scientific Name: Various
• Adult Size: 2 – 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Herbivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom

Large schooling fish, such as Tetras, can be suitable tankmates for Convict Cichlids if the right breeds are selected. The large breed are not only big enough not to be eaten, but their activity will have them act as dither fish in the environment. This will help bring out your Cichlid in the open more, and their ability to swim away quickly will allow both species of fish to coexist peacefully. For recommended breeds, look for the following at stores:

• Congo Tetra
• Bleeding Heart Tetra
• Columbian Tetra
• Buenos Aires Tetra

Their active presence in the aquarium adds activity that may even help reduce any hostility between other tankmates. It is necessary to provide plenty of room and hiding places for these peaceful fish so they are able to feel comfortable and safe from aggression by others within the same habitat. As schooling fish, they need to be purchased in groups. They will need at least a school of 15 to keep from getting singled out by your Convict Cichlid.

6. Sajica (T Bar)

• Scientific Name: Cryptoheros sajica
• Adult Size: 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Central America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to Mid

T Bar Cichlids (video source) are considered semi-peaceful central American cichlids, which makes them a suitable tankmate for Convict Cichlids since they share similar size and disposition. If confronted by larger fish, these cichlid species will stand up to defend themselves.

To ensure an environment where both varieties can live harmoniously, provide ample hiding places in the community tank while maintaining proper water parameters that suit all inhabitants of this aquatic space.

7. Salvini

• Scientific Name: Cichlasoma salvini
• Adult Size: 8 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to79°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Mid

The Salvini Cichlids are known to be a colorful and somewhat belligerent breed, though they can coexist with Convict Cichlids if the tank is large enough and has hiding spaces. These eye-catching fish make aquariums look lovely while also claiming their own territories.

A balanced diet that includes brine shrimp and blood worms should be served up for both types of cichlids so as not to stir any conflict between them. Monitoring how they interact will help create an atmosphere of peace in the environment. The Salvini cichlid is more aggressive and should be added after the Convict.

8. Firemouth (Thorichthys meeki)

• Scientific Name: Thorichthys meeki
• Adult Size: 6 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 86°F
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Central America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to Mid

The Firemouth Cichlid is the perfect tankmate when kept with Convict Cichlids. They can make for an entertaining aquarium thanks to their vivid colors. They are both of similar temperament and while they may chase each other, oftentimes no harm will come from it as long as you plan to have a 4 foot long tank or longer.

To avoid any potential conflict between the two types of cichlids, it is recommended that plenty of places to hide be provided to maintain suitable water parameters for both species. This should ensure all inhabitants have access to what they need while creating a peaceful atmosphere in the tank environment as well.

Both Firemouth Cichlids and Convicts are readily available and easy to purchase together if you are shopping around.

9. Pictus Catfish

• Scientific Name: Pimelodus pictus
• Adult Size: 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom

The Pictus Catfish are mild-mannered, active aquatic creatures that can be suitable companions for Convicts Cichlids since both require similar environments. Despite being bottom feeders, their serene demeanor and swift movement make them a perfect fit to exist in harmony with the cichlids without causing any major disruptions.

They should be kept in a sizable group to keep them from getting singled out. Except to house them in a larger tank to accommodate everyone.

10. Nicaraguan (Hypsophrys nicaraguensis)

• Scientific Name: Hypsophrys nicaraguensis
• Adult Size: 8 inches (female), 10 inches (male)
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 80°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Central America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to Mid

The Nicaraguan Cichlid is known for its vibrant colors and moderately aggressive nature, making it a compatible tankmate in the same environment as Convicts. The females (video source) are smaller than the males, but are also colorful. This species of fish is considered to be quite sturdy, so caring for them will not require particular attention when it comes to water parameters. They are able to defend themselves against the aggression of the Convict Cichlid.

Despite their potentially territorial attitude towards other small fish they can fit inside their mouths, these pretty-looking creatures won’t likely be antagonistic toward Convicts if both have enough space.

11. Jack Dempsey

• Scientific Name: Rocio octofasciata
• Adult Size: 10 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 86°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Central America
• Swimming Level. All levels

The Jack Dempsey is an eye-catching, slower cichlid that can be kept together with Convict Cichlids in the same tank, although this arrangement might not suit beginners. Adequate space and shelter need to be provided for both kinds of fish so they do not feel threatened around one another. It’s recommended to keep a watch on how things unfold between them, as Jack Dempseys may become aggressive if disturbed or challenged by other fish species.

12. Clown Loaches

• Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracanthus
• Adult Size: 12 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 86°F
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Indonesia
• Swimming Level. Bottom

Clown Loaches are lively, sizable, and vivid creatures that bring a lot of animation to the fish tank. They get along peacefully with Convict Cichlids and like to spend most of their time hiding near the bottom of aquariums. However, due to their very large size and their schooling requirement, they need a large tank to house both species.

If the right tank is provided, but can successfully coexist without aggression issues.

13. Oscar Fish

• Scientific Name: Astronotus spp.
• Adult Size: 12+ inches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 81°F
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to middle

Oscar fish are intelligent yet aggressive creatures that have the potential to be compatible tankmates with Convict Cichlids if they can occupy sufficient living space and have ample hideouts. As these curious swimmers tend to explore their environments thoroughly though greater care must be taken when housing them.

This is one of the more iffy combinations, which the highest risk being that the Oscar gets so large that it may eat the Convict. Other times, the Convict may bully the Oscar, even is the Oscar is larger. Careful observation is a must if you are going to attempt this.

14. Giant Danios

Giant Danio Fish in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557080″/>

• Scientific Name: Danio aequipinnatus
• Adult Size: 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 75°F
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. India
• Swimming Level. Bottom to middle

Giant Danios, as schooling fish that swim rapidly, can inhabit the same aquarium with Convict Cichlids and introduce activity. This helps to avoid disputes among aggressive types of fish by giving them a diversion instead. For both these species’ welfare in harmony, provide enough space for hiding places inside the tank plus maintain suitable water temperature levels specific to their needs. They should be kept in larger numbers to keep the Convict cichlid active.

15. Honduran Red Point

• Scientific Name: Amatitlania siquia
• Adult Size: 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Central America
• Swimming Level. Bottom to middle

The Honduran Red Point Cichlid (video source) offers red to orange fins and black bars similar to its cousin, the Convict Cichlid. Like the convict, they are known for producing a large amount of offspring. It is best to keep a single species when housing with a Convict to prevent any aggression issues. While they are less aggressive, they have no problem standing up to your Convict if it does display aggression behaviors.

Honorable Mentions

Here are fish that could work with Convicts, but require more substance to write about in order to provide proper guidance. When I’m able to write more about them, I’ll link to their respective articles:

• Tiger Barbs
• African Cichlids
• Jewel Cichlid

Fish Species To Avoid

When deciding which tank mates to select for Convict Cichlids, it is necessary to mention certain fish species that should be avoided. These kinds of fish may either be too small or overly aggressive. To help out, here are some bad choices to add:

• Wolf Cichlid
• Jaguar Cichlid
• Small schooling nano fish
• Any fish that can fit in their mouths
• Betta fish
• Discus fish

Tips For Creating A Stress Fish Aquarium

When setting up an aquarium for Convict Cichlids and their tankmates, it’s important to plan carefully and understand the individual needs of each species. The best way to ensure that everyone remains safe is by allowing sufficient swimming space while also providing multiple hiding places like caves, rocks, or plants. this will reduce any possible aggression between them.

Aside from there, here are a few quick tip to increase your chances of success:

• Plan on at least a 4 foot long tank when housing Convicts and other fish species
• Introduce the least aggressive fish first and the most aggressive fish last
• Consider placing your convict fish in a breeding container when first introduced to observe interactions the first few days
• Always have a backup plan – whether returning the fish to the fish store or giving the fish to a friend

Frequently Asked Questions

Closing Thoughts

Finding the perfect tank mates for your Convict Cichlids may be challenging, but with careful consideration and planning, you can create a harmonious environment for all the fish in your aquarium. From peaceful bottom-dwellers like Pleco Fish and Clown Loaches to colorful and moderately aggressive fish like Green Terror and Nicaraguan Cichlid, there’s a suitable tankmate for every Convict Cichlid owner. By understanding their behavior, providing adequate space, hiding spots, and maintaining proper water parameters, you can create a thriving aquarium that both you and your fish will enjoy.

The red tail shark doesn’t share the bottom. That’s the whole story.

Red tail sharks look harmless at the fish store. A 2-inch juvenile darting around a display tank gives no hint of what’s coming. By the time yours hits 4 inches, it will own the bottom of your aquarium, and everything that gets too close will know it. This fish is one of the most visually striking freshwater species you can keep. It’s also one of the most misunderstood when it comes to stocking.

One red tail shark per tank. No exceptions. Plan your stocking around that rule before you buy anything else.

Understanding the Red Tail Shark

Behavior and Temperament

The red tail shark (Epalzeorhynchos bicolor) is not a true shark; it’s a cyprinid from Thailand. But the name fits its personality. This fish patrols the bottom of the tank like it owns it, because to its mind, it does. Aggression is worst toward fish that look similar (rainbow sharks are a guaranteed disaster), occupy the same bottom territory, or are slow enough to be cornered.

They’re also commonly confused with rainbow sharks at fish stores, often mislabeled, and rainbow sharks are noticeably less aggressive. If you’ve had trouble with aggression right out of the gate, double-check what you actually brought home.

Reality of Keeping

Here’s what daily life with a red tail shark actually looks like: the fish patrols the bottom in wide, deliberate loops, checking its cave, cruising the substrate perimeter, occasionally darting up to chase anything that drifts too close. Feeding time is the most active period. The shark comes out fast, eats aggressively, and will charge competitors off food that lands near its territory. Mid-water fish learn quickly to stay above the bottom third of the tank. Fish that don’t learn that lesson get chased repeatedly until they do, or until they’re stressed enough to stop eating. In a properly sized, properly stocked tank, the harassment settles into a stable routine. In an undersized tank, it never does.

What People Get Wrong

Most keepers run into trouble because they bought the fish as a 2-inch juvenile, put it in a 29-gallon tank, and assumed everything was fine. It is fine, until the shark hits 3–4 inches (7–10 cm). That’s when its territorial instincts fully activate, and by then you’ve already stocked the tank around it. I’ve seen it play out dozens of times: the fish that seemed compatible at purchase become targets once the shark matures. The juvenile shows you nothing. The adult tells you everything. The mistake isn’t the stocking choice, it’s the tank size and the failure to plan for what this fish becomes.

Ideal Tank Environment and Parameters

A minimum of 55 gallons (208 L) for a single shark. A 100-gallon (379 L) tank gives the best long-term results. Tank footprint matters as much as volume, the tank needs to be at least 4 feet (122 cm) long, with 6 feet (183 cm) preferred. A 6-foot tank lets the shark stake out one end while other fish have clear escape routes.

Keep temperature between 72–82°F (22–28°C) and pH between 6.5–7.5. Plenty of caves, driftwood, and visual breaks at the substrate level reduce aggression by giving the shark a defined territory to defend rather than the entire tank floor.

Top 15 Red Tail Shark Tank Mates

These 15 picks each have a reason they work, and a reason they can fail. Some are slam dunks. Others require specific conditions. I’ll be direct about both.

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Expert Take

At the stores I managed, the red tail shark was always the fish we gave customers a full briefing on before they left, because the 2-inch juvenile in the bag gives zero indication of what it becomes. After 25+ years in this hobby, my experience is consistent: get the setup right and this fish is spectacular; get it wrong and you’re managing casualties. Red tail sharks are sold as juveniles that look peaceful, then grow into 6-inch (15 cm) territorial animals that own the bottom of whatever tank they’re in. By the time most keepers realize the issue, other fish are showing stress or injury. The key is understanding the trajectory, not just the current behavior. Choose fast, mid-water tank mates that don’t compete for bottom space, add the shark last, and give the tank enough room to establish natural distance. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Severums	8 inches (20 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Geophagus	5–8 inches (13–20 cm)	55–75+ gallons (208–284+ L)	7/10	High
Pearl Gourami	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	6/10	High
Tiger Barbs	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	20 gallons (76 L)	9/10	High
Peacock Cichlids	4+ inches (10+ cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Hap Cichlids	6+ inches (15+ cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	7/10	High
Tinfoil Barb	14 inches (35 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	7/10	High
Silver Dollars	6 inches (15 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	9/10	High
Rainbowfish	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	6/10	High
Yoyo Loach	2.5 inches (6 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	6/10	High
Bristlenose Pleco	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	9/10	High
Odessa Barb	3 inches (7.5 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	9/10	High
Roseline Shark	6 inches (15 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Congo Tetra	2.5–3.5 inches (6–9 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	7/10	High
Blue Acara	6 inches (15 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	7/10	High

1. Severums

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Adult Size: 8 inches (20 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–84°F (24–29°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom to mid

Severums are one of the best options for a red tail shark tank. They’re big enough not to be bullied, confident enough to hold their own, and calm enough not to escalate conflict. In a well-sized tank, the Severum typically establishes itself as the dominant mid-level fish while the red tail controls the bottom, they divide the tank naturally without constant fighting. This is a pairing that actually works in practice, not just on paper. Get a Severum that’s close to or larger than the shark at purchase, and add the shark last.

2. Geophagus

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Geophagus spp.
• Adult Size: 5–8 inches (13–20 cm)
• Water Temperature: 76–83°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 55–75+ gallons (208–284+ L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle to bottom

Geophagus are substrate-sifting cichlids, they spend most of their time with their head in the sand picking up mouthfuls of substrate. That bottom-dwelling habit puts them in the shark’s zone, which is the risk. The key is tank size and group size. A group of 3–5 Geophagus in a 75-gallon (284 L) or larger tank creates enough movement and presence that the shark has trouble singling one out. Buy them larger than your shark when possible. And run serious filtration, Geophagus are constantly sifting substrate and the water will show it fast if your filter isn’t keeping up.

3. Pearl Gourami

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) for the gourami; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid to top

Pearl Gouramis work because they live up top, the shark doesn’t spend time in the upper water column, so these two barely cross paths. The 6/10 reflects the risk: pearl gouramis are peaceful fish, and if the shark decides to go upstairs and throw its weight around, they don’t have much of a response. Keep a group of 3 or more, add them before the shark, and give them floating plants or surface cover to hide behind. One lone pearl gourami with an established red tail shark is a slow-motion disaster.

4. Tiger Barbs

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–86°F (23–30°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L) for the barbs; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid

Tiger barbs are genuinely one of the best picks for a red tail shark tank. They’re fast, they school tightly, they stay mid-water, and they’re bold enough not to panic when the shark charges. The shark will chase, that’s normal, but barbs are quick enough to avoid real harm. The number matters here. A school of 6 isn’t enough. Plan on 12 or more to keep the group tight and confident. A small school breaks apart under harassment and individual fish become targets. A large school is basically immune.

5. Peacock Cichlids

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Aulonocara spp.
• Adult Size: 4–6 inches (10–15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 74–82°F (23–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: East Africa
• Swimming Level: Mid to bottom

Peacock cichlids are a smart pairing because they push back. Unlike passive community fish that just absorb harassment, peacocks have enough backbone to establish a stalemate. The red tail shark charges, the peacock holds its ground, and eventually both fish accept the other’s presence. In a 75-gallon (284 L) or larger, this usually works well. In a 55-gallon with a juvenile peacock, the dynamic is different, the shark chases it constantly, the peacock retreats to a corner, stops eating, and slowly declines. By the time you notice the problem, you’re dealing with a stressed, underfed fish that needs to be removed. Stick with medium-sized peacocks (4+ inches / 10+ cm), give them a 75-gallon (284 L) minimum, and add the shark last.

Hard Rule: Never keep a red tail shark with another red tail shark, a rainbow shark, or any shark-shaped fish. The aggression between similar species is extreme and routinely fatal to the subordinate fish. This isn’t a compatibility issue you can manage with tank size, it’s a species incompatibility.

6. Hap Cichlids

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Sciaenochromis spp.
• Adult Size: 6+ inches (15+ cm)
• Water Temperature: 76–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: East Africa
• Swimming Level: Mid to bottom

Hap cichlids work because they’re large, semi-aggressive, and not intimidated. A 6-inch (15 cm) hap is not getting bullied into a corner by a 5-inch (13 cm) red tail. The two species establish a mutual avoidance, the shark controls the bottom perimeter, the haps roam the mid-level and open water. One note: skip Mbunas. Most Mbunas are far too aggressive, they’ll turn the tables and bully the shark to death. Electric Yellows are the one Mbuna exception, but Haps are the safer overall choice for this setup.

7. Tinfoil Barb

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanenfeldii
• Adult Size: 14 inches (35 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: All levels

Tinfoil barbs grow to 14 inches (35 cm) and need to be kept in groups, a school of 5+ requires a 200-gallon (757 L) or larger tank. That’s not a casual commitment. But if you’re running a large display tank anyway, tinfoils are one of the cleanest pairings you’ll find. They’re too big and too fast for the shark to bother, they fill the open water beautifully, and their movement keeps the whole tank dynamic. Just know what you’re signing up for, these are large fish that grow fast and need serious filtration.

8. Silver Dollars

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus / Metynnis hypsauchen
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore / herbivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: All levels

Silver dollars are one of my favorite pairings for a red tail shark tank. They function as large dither fish, their constant movement and open-water confidence tells every fish in the tank that there’s no immediate threat. The shark chases? Silver dollars are too fast to catch. They’re athletic, schooling fish that spend their time in open water, completely out of the bottom territory the shark is defending. The combination works beautifully visually too, the shark’s black and red against the silver flash of a school of 5–6 dollars. The only tradeoff: silver dollars will eat every live plant in the tank. Go with hardscape.

9. Rainbowfish

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia spp.
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons (151 L) for the rainbowfish; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Australia / Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Middle

Rainbowfish are active, mid-water swimmers that bring serious color to the upper portion of the tank. The 6/10 rating is honest: small rainbowfish species and small schools can run into trouble. Stick to the larger species, Boesemani, Turquoise, Red Irian, and keep a school of 8+. The bigger and faster they are, the less the shark bothers with them. These also do better when added before the shark establishes its territory.

10. Yoyo Loach

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Botia almorhae
• Adult Size: 2.5 inches (6 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) for the loaches; 75+ gallons (284+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Yoyo loaches are a bottom dweller, which puts them squarely in the shark’s territory, hence the 6/10. What saves this pairing is the yoyo’s speed and activity level. They don’t sit still, they dart quickly, and a group of 5+ makes it genuinely difficult for the shark to pin any single individual. A very large tank, 75 gallons (284 L) minimum, is where this combination becomes manageable. In smaller tanks, the shark will harass them relentlessly. If you have a 6-foot (183 cm) tank, you could also consider clown loaches as an alternative, though their size requirements are even more significant long-term.

11. Bristlenose Pleco

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–80°F (23–27°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) for the pleco; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: Amazon Basin
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The bristlenose pleco earns its 9/10 because it genuinely doesn’t care what the shark does. It suction-cups to a surface and keeps grazing. The shark may charge it once or twice, but the pleco doesn’t flee and doesn’t fight, and the shark typically loses interest. They also don’t compete for the same food, which removes another source of conflict. In larger tanks, these two coexist with almost zero drama. A cave or two for the pleco to claim as its own helps smooth the introduction. This is one of the cleanest bottom-dweller pairings on this list.

12. Odessa Barb

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
• Adult Size: 3 inches (7.5 cm)
• Water Temperature: 70–80°F (21–27°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) for the barbs; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid

Odessa barbs are underrated in this context. They’re fast, confident, school tightly, and spend most of their time in the mid-water column, well away from the shark’s domain. They’re also visually striking, with the males showing a bright red lateral stripe that stands out against a planted or darkly scaped tank. Their social nature means they’re almost impossible to isolate and bully when kept in proper numbers. Keep 8+ for the best results. A great pick for a red tail shark tank that also wants visual impact. (video source)

13. Roseline Shark

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 65–77°F (18–25°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: Mid

Roseline sharks are fast, active swimmers, and that speed is what makes them viable. The red tail can’t keep up. Keep them in a large group (6+) so they can’t be singled out. The risk with roselines is actually the reverse of the usual problem: a large, tight group of roselines will eventually outcompete the red tail shark at feeding time, and the shark may go hungry if you’re not watching. The fix is targeted feeding, drop food near the shark’s cave, separate from where the roselines are feeding. Manageable, but worth knowing upfront.

14. Congo Tetra

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
• Adult Size: 2.5–3.5 inches (6–9 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–82°F (23–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) for the tetras; 55+ gallons (208+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Democratic Republic of Congo
• Swimming Level: Middle to top

Congo tetras are one of the larger tetra species in the hobby, at 3.5 inches (9 cm), they’re not nano fish. That size, combined with their speed and mid-to-top water column preference, puts them well outside the shark’s reach most of the time. They’re best in schools of 10+, and the males’ iridescent finnage looks stunning in a large tank. Don’t try this with small tetra species like neons or cardinals, they’re too small and too slow for this setup.

15. Blue Acara

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Andinoacara pulcher
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 74–82°F (23–28°C)
• Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons (151 L) for the acara; 75+ gallons (284+ L) with the shark
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle to bottom

Blue acara is a solid choice, they’re calm cichlids with enough size and confidence to avoid becoming a target. The critical factor is size at introduction: if your acara is smaller than the red tail shark when introduced, it will be bullied. Purchase an acara that’s visibly larger than your shark, and introduce the shark after the acara has had time to establish. The electric blue variant is particularly striking alongside the red-and-black of the shark. A pair of electric blue acaras in a 75-gallon (284 L) with a red tail shark and a school of tiger barbs is one of the cleaner mixed setups you can build.

Bad Tank Mate Choices

These don’t fail because of water parameters, they fail because of behavior. The red tail shark will target them specifically, and the outcome is predictable:

• Nano schooling fish, too small, too slow, too easy to corner
• Betta fish, long fins, slow swimmers, will be shredded
• Zebra danios, fast but too small; the shark will obsess over them
• Livebearers, swordtails, mollies, platys, slow, docile, easy targets
• Angelfish, slow, large fins, not fast enough to escape harassment
• Freshwater shrimp, will be eaten, period
• Other freshwater shark species, especially rainbow sharks and bala sharks, the aggression is extreme
• A second red tail shark, they will fight until one is dead

Biggest Mistake Keepers Make

They put the red tail shark in first. It claims every inch of the tank, the caves, the driftwood, the substrate, the corners. Then they try to add other fish into an already-established territory. The shark treats every new arrival as an intruder, and the introductions turn into harassment campaigns. The stress doesn’t stop, fish begin dying, and the keeper assumes the shark is just “too aggressive.”

The actual problem is introduction order. Add your community fish first, let them establish, then add the red tail shark last. The shark enters a tank that’s already populated and has to navigate around established residents rather than defending fresh territory. It’s not a guarantee of peace, but it dramatically changes the aggression dynamic.

Tips for a Successful Red Tail Shark Tank

• Add the red tail shark last, or temporarily relocate it for a few weeks before reintroducing to reset territories
• Use a breeding box or divider when introducing the shark to observe early aggression before full integration
• When pairing with similarly sized fish, buy the shark smaller than the tank mates at introduction
• A 6-foot (183 cm) tank footprint is significantly better than a 4-foot (122 cm) for managing this species, the extra length gives the shark defined territory at one end
• Pack in the hardscape, rocks, driftwood, caves. The more visual breaks you create, the shorter the shark’s chases get. This is one tank where a heavily decorated setup genuinely changes the aggression level

Mark’s Pick: I’ve put this combination together more than once in my years in the hobby, it works every time in the right-sized tank. Silver dollars in a group of 5–6, tiger barbs in a school of 12+, and a bristlenose pleco, paired with a red tail shark in a 75-gallon (284 L) or larger tank. The silver dollars and barbs handle the open water and mid-column, the pleco handles the glass and substrate cleanup, and the shark owns the bottom perimeter. Everyone stays in their lane. It’s one of the most reliable semi-aggressive community setups I’ve put together in my years in the hobby.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can two red tail sharks live together?

No. Two red tail sharks in the same tank almost always results in one being killed or severely injured. The aggression between conspecifics is extreme, this is a strictly one-per-tank species. There is no tank size that reliably makes two red tail sharks cohabitate peacefully.

Can red tail sharks live with rainbow sharks?

No. Rainbow sharks occupy the same territory type and have similar body shapes, which triggers maximum aggression from the red tail shark. This is one of the worst possible pairings. Don’t attempt it.

What is the minimum tank size for a red tail shark with tank mates?

55 gallons (208 L) is the bare minimum, and only with fast, mid-water fish as tank mates. A 75-gallon (284 L) or larger is where this setup becomes genuinely comfortable. The bigger the tank, the more territorial buffer the shark has, and the less it focuses aggression on specific tank mates.

Why is my red tail shark so aggressive?

Usually one of three reasons: the tank is too small, the shark was added first, or the tank mates are bottom dwellers that compete for the same territory. Address whichever applies. If the tank is under 55 gallons (208 L), rehoming one species is the only real solution.

Can red tail sharks live with cichlids?

Yes: with the right cichlids. Peacock cichlids, hap cichlids, severums, and blue acaras all work well in properly sized tanks. Avoid aggressive Mbuna cichlids, which are likely to bully the shark rather than the other way around. Oscars and other large aggressive cichlids are also too much for this setup.

Will a red tail shark eat smaller fish?

It won’t actively hunt fish to eat them, but nano fish and small shrimp are absolutely at risk. The shark charges and nips, a very small fish that can’t escape fast enough will be injured and will eventually die from stress or wounds. Keep nano species completely out of this setup.

Closing Thoughts

The red tail shark is one of the most visually striking fish in the freshwater hobby. That black body with a vivid red tail is impossible to miss in a well-set-up tank. But the fish earns its keep in a specific type of setup, a larger tank, fast mid-water companions, and a stocking sequence that adds the shark last. Get those three things right and you’ll have a centerpiece fish that’s genuinely impressive to watch.

Get them wrong and you’ll spend your time managing casualties. The shark doesn’t cause problems in the right setup. It causes problems when the setup isn’t built around what it is.

Have you kept red tail sharks before? What tank mates worked for you? Drop your experience in the comments below.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Electric Blue Acaras are one of the most underrated cichlids in the hobby. They’re manageable enough for intermediate keepers, colorful enough to anchor a display tank, and compatible with a surprisingly wide range of fish, until they breed. When a pair claims a spawning site, the temperament shifts. Fish that lived peacefully in the same tank for months suddenly become obstacles. That’s the part most guides skip over, and it’s exactly what you need to plan around.

The Blue Acara doesn’t just live in your tank. It claims part of it.

Understanding Blue Acaras

Electric Blue Acaras (Andinoacara pulcher hybrid) originate from South America and belong to the cichlid family, a family famous for territorial fish. But Blue Acaras sit at the calm end of that spectrum. They grow to around 6–7 inches (15–18 cm), top out at a manageable size for medium tanks, and generally ignore tank mates unless they’ve got eggs on the ground.

That last part matters. Breeding pairs become a completely different animal. I’ve kept these fish alongside angelfish and corydoras with zero problems for months, then the pair locked onto a flat rock and cleared a 12-inch (30 cm) radius around it overnight. Any fish that wandered into that zone got chased hard. This is normal cichlid behavior, but it catches hobbyists off guard when the fish had been so peaceful before.

Their Characteristics

Blue Acaras are considered an ideal cichlid for community tanks, not peaceful community tanks, but cichlid-community tanks where everyone is big enough to not be lunch. These freshwater fish typically reach 4–7 inches (10–18 cm) and are carnivores at heart, so their diet should include proteins like bloodworms, brine shrimp, and quality pellets. They’re one of the few cichlids where you actually have options for tank mates. That said, compatible doesn’t mean zero conflict; it means manageable conflict with the right setup.

When breeding, females lay 150–200 eggs that hatch in 2–3 days. During this window, the whole tank dynamic changes. The pair becomes territorial toward anything that comes near the spawn site, and even established tank mates can take damage if the tank isn’t big enough to give other fish an escape route.

What People Get Wrong About Blue Acara Tank Mates

The biggest mistake is treating the Blue Acara like a general community fish. People read “semi-aggressive” and think that means they can pair them with tetras, guppies, and other small fish. Wrong. “Semi-aggressive” for a cichlid means they’re not actively hunting their tank mates; it does not mean small fish are safe. A 6-inch (15 cm) cichlid that’s been peaceful for six months will still eat a neon tetra the moment it gets close enough at feeding time.

The second mistake is not planning for breeding aggression. Blue Acaras will breed in captivity, easily. Most pairs that are well-fed and in good water conditions will attempt to spawn multiple times a year. Every spawn cycle means 2–3 weeks of elevated aggression. If your tank mates don’t have enough space or cover to stay out of the breeding zone, the peace you’ve built over months falls apart in a day.

Tank Requirements And Water Parameters

A minimum 55-gallon (208 L) tank is the starting point for Blue Acaras in a community setup, a 40 gallon works for just a single specimen or a mated pair without other cichlids, but once you add tank mates, you need the footprint. A 60-gallon breeder or 75-gallon gives you the length and width to create territory breaks with hardscape. Without physical barriers, Blue Acaras will chase tank mates across the entire tank during breeding, and there’s nowhere for other fish to go.

Water parameters: pH 6.5–7.5, temperature 74–82°F (23–28°C), moderate hardness. Use fine sand or rounded gravel, they dig, especially around spawning sites, and sharp substrate damages their barbels over time. Good filtration is non-negotiable with any cichlid. They’re messy eaters and the biological load is higher than most beginners expect.

Reality of Keeping Blue Acaras in a Community Tank

Most of the time, Blue Acaras are model citizens. They swim confidently, they’re visible during the day, and they interact with their surroundings in a way that makes a tank feel alive. They’ll investigate the substrate, move gravel around, and develop distinct personalities. Mine learned feeding patterns faster than most fish I’ve kept, they come to the front of the glass at the same time every day.

The challenge is the unpredictability of breeding cycles. You don’t always see a spawn coming. One day the tank is normal, the next your acara pair is guarding a rock and chasing anything that comes within 10 inches (25 cm). You need tank mates that are either fast enough to stay out of the way or big enough to not be threatened by the chase. This is why bottom-dwellers like corydoras and plecos are such reliable picks, they stay out of the mid-water territory the acara patrols during breeding.

The other reality: Blue Acaras are personable, curious fish that interact with their keeper in ways most community fish don’t. That’s part of the appeal. But you’re keeping a cichlid. Don’t let the calm exterior fool you into ignoring the instincts underneath. In my experience, the shift that catches people off guard isn’t the initial aggression, it’s how fast a previously peaceful pair flips the moment eggs appear. I’ve kept acaras alongside angelfish and corydoras with zero problems for months, then watched the pair clear a 12-inch radius around a flat rock overnight. That switch is normal cichlid behavior, but you need to plan your tank layout around it before it happens, not after.

Biggest Mistake Acara Keepers Make

Adding small fish after the acara is established. Once a Blue Acara is confident in its territory, new additions, especially small ones, are immediately seen as either prey or competition. Adding nano fish to an established acara tank is asking for losses. If you’re building a community with Blue Acaras, stock the tank with the larger fish first and add the acara last. That way it enters as the newcomer, not the established owner, and aggression is more manageable. I’ve watched this play out repeatedly at the stores I managed, customers would come back a week after buying an acara wondering why their smaller fish were disappearing. Nine times out of ten, they’d added the acara to an already-settled tank. Stocking order with cichlids is not a suggestion; it’s the difference between a community tank and a disaster.

21 Best Blue Acara Tank Mates

Finding suitable tank mates for your Blue Acaras requires matching size, temperament, and water parameters. Each entry below includes a compatibility ease score and the key conditions to make the pairing work. We’ll note for each tankmate:

• Scientific Name
• Adult Size
• Water Temperature Range
• Minimum tank size
• Care Level
• Diet
• Origin
• Swimming Level

Expert Take

After 25+ years keeping cichlids and watching how they behave across hundreds of community setups, in my own tanks and in stores I managed, Blue Acaras consistently sit at the more forgiving end of the cichlid spectrum. That changes fast when they spawn, which is why the tank size and stocking advice below isn’t optional. Blue Acaras are one of the best mid-size cichlids for a community tank, if you pick the right community. They’re not as aggressive as most South American cichlids their size, but they’ll defend their territory when threatened and will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. The sweet spot is large, robust tank mates that share the same water parameters and give the acara space. The species on this list are ranked by how forgiving they are, choose the 9/10 entries if you’re newer to cichlid keeping, and reserve the 6/10 picks for larger tanks where you can manage territory properly. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Angelfish	4 to 6 inches (10–15 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	9/10	High
Corydoras Catfish	2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	8/10	High
Roseline Sharks	4 inches (10 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Silver Dollars	6 inches (15 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	9/10	High
Blood Parrot Cichlid	6 inches (15 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	9/10	High
Congo Tetra	2.5 – 3.5 inches (6–9 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	7/10	High
Geophagus	5–8 inches (13–20 cm)	75+ gallons (284+ L)	7/10	High
Clown Loach	12 inches (30 cm)	125+ gallons (473+ L)	7/10	High
Synodontis Catfish	6 inches (15 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	9/10	High
Severum	8 inches (20 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Uaru Cichlids	10 inches (25 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	7/10	High
Bala Shark	14 inches (36 cm)	125 gallons (473 L)	7/10	High
Firemouth Cichlids	5 to 6 inches (13–15 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	9/10	High
Jack Dempsey Cichlid	10 inches (25 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	6/10	Moderate
Medium Sized Gouramis	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	7/10	High
Rainbowfish	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	7/10	High
Bristlenose Pleco	4–5 inches (10–13 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	9/10	High
Zebra Loach	3.5 inches (9 cm)	30 gallons (114 L)	9/10	High
Pictus Catfish	3–5 inches (8–13 cm)	75 gallons (284 L)	6/10	Moderate
Giant Danio	4 inches (10 cm)	40 gallons (151 L)	9/10	High
Convict Cichlid	6 inches (15 cm)	55 gallons (208 L)	6/10	Moderate

1. Angelfish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare
• Adult Size: 4 to 6 inches (10–15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Amazon River
• Swimming Level: All

Angelfish are one of the cleanest pairings you’ll find with Blue Acaras. Same South American origin, overlapping water parameters, and similar size means the acara doesn’t see them as prey or rival. They share mid-water zones without competing directly for territory. The one caveat: both species get semi-territorial when breeding. If they both breed at the same time, separate breeding zones or a larger tank is mandatory. In a 75-gallon (284 L) or bigger, this is rarely an issue.

2. Corydoras Catfish

Ease: 8/10, Excellent bottom-dweller pairing, but size matters.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches (5–8 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–79°F (22–26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Corydoras Catfish are one of my go-to pairings with Blue Acaras. They stay on the bottom, don’t compete for the acara’s territory, and their armored bodies give them some protection from occasional cichlid harassment. Stick with larger cory species, sterbai, duplicareus, or adolfoi, that reach 2.5–3 inches (6–8 cm). Smaller species like pygmy corys stay too small and risk being eaten as the acara grows. Keep them in groups of 6 or more, with soft sandy substrate so they can forage properly.

3. Roseline Sharks

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
• Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 60–77°F (16–25°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: Mid level

Roseline Sharks are fast, active schooling fish with a striking red and silver stripe pattern. Their speed is their best protection, they’re quick enough to avoid acara aggression and large enough not to be mistaken for food. Keep them in groups of 6 or more; a lone Roseline is a stressed Roseline. The temperature overlap with Blue Acaras is workable but check your parameters, Roselines prefer the cooler end of the range (72–76°F / 22–24°C), so aim for that middle ground rather than keeping it warm for the acara.

4. Silver Dollars

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Metynnis argenteus / Metynnis hypsauchen
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Herbivore/Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Mid to top

Silver Dollars work so well with Blue Acaras because they occupy completely different parts of the tank and pose zero threat to each other. They’re too big to be eaten, too fast to be caught if chased, and too herbivorous to compete for the same food. The downside is they’re plant destroyers, a planted tank with Silver Dollars is a dead planted tank. This pairing works best in a South American biotope with driftwood and rocks but no live plants.

5. Blood Parrot Cichlid

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Hybrid
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Captivity
• Swimming Level: All levels

Blood Parrot Cichlids are a surprisingly good pairing with Blue Acaras. They’re similar in size, similarly mellow for cichlids, and they don’t typically challenge each other for territory. Blood Parrots can’t fully close their mouths (a trait of their hybrid genetics), so they’re less capable of inflicting damage during confrontations compared to other cichlids. The main watch point: breeding season. Both species get territorial when spawning, so tank size and territory breaks matter. In a 55-gallon (208 L) or larger with multiple sight breaks using rocks and driftwood, they coexist reliably.

Hard Rule: Never pair Blue Acaras with fish under 3 inches (8 cm). Adult Blue Acaras reach 6–7 inches (15–18 cm) and will eat smaller companions, especially at feeding time when everything in the tank is moving and prey-response instincts kick in. This applies even to fish that seemed safe when the acara was young.

6. Congo Tetra

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
• Adult Size: 2.5–3.5 inches (6–9 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–82°F (23–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Democratic Republic of Congo
• Swimming Level: Middle to Top

Congo Tetras are one of the larger tetra species, and that size is what makes them work here. At 3–3.5 inches (8–9 cm), they’re at the borderline of “too small for an acara tank”, so you need a group of at least 8–10, a well-planted tank with dense midwater vegetation, and ideally an acara that was introduced after the tetras were established. Their flowing fins are a concern with any cichlid; watch for fin nipping and remove the acara if damage starts. In the right setup, Congo Tetras add a stunning flash of color above the acara’s territory level.

7. Geophagus

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Geophagus spp.
• Adult Size: 5–8 inches (13–20 cm)
• Water Temperature: 76–83°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 75+ gallons (284+ L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Middle to Bottom

Geophagus are another South American cichlid, which is both the advantage and the complication. They share the acara’s biotope preferences, so water conditions align naturally. But two cichlid species sharing bottom territory in the same tank can produce conflict, especially during breeding. In a 75-gallon (284 L) or larger with a deep sand bed and multiple rock piles to separate territories, they coexist reliably. In anything smaller, expect territorial disputes. Both species also rearrange the substrate constantly, which stresses other bottom-dwellers, plan accordingly.

8. Clown Loach

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Chromobotia macracanthus
• Adult Size: 12 inches (30 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–86°F (24–30°C)
• Minimum tank size: 125+ gallons (473+ L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Clown Loaches grow much larger than most hobbyists expect, 12 inches (30 cm) is a real adult size, not the 4-inch (10 cm) fish you see in the store. That size ultimately makes them excellent Blue Acara companions: they’re too large to be threatened, they stay primarily on the bottom, and their gregarious nature keeps them in a social group rather than competing for territory. You need a 125-gallon (473 L) or larger to do this combination right. Keep a group of 5+ Clown Loaches, singles and pairs stress out and become more aggressive. In a large tank, this is one of the most visually impressive combinations you can build.

9. Synodontis Catfish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Synodontis alberti
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–82°F (22–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Republic of Congo
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Synodontis Catfish are one of the most reliable pairings for any medium-to-large cichlid tank. They’re armored, they don’t compete for mid-water territory, and most Synodontis species are large enough at 5–6 inches (13–15 cm) to not be eaten. They’re nocturnal by nature, which means they’re active when the Blue Acara is resting, two fish that barely cross paths. In 25 years of keeping cichlids, Synodontis is one of my default bottom-dweller picks for exactly this reason. They just work.

10. Severum

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Heros severus
• Adult Size: 8 inches (20 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–84°F (24–29°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom to mid

Severums are mellow for their size, one of the calmer South American cichlids at 8 inches (20 cm). They work with Blue Acaras because neither species actively seeks confrontation outside of breeding. The 7/10 rating reflects the two-cichlid complexity: when both spawn simultaneously, territory disputes escalate. In a 75-gallon (284 L) or larger with clearly defined territory zones, Severums and Blue Acaras can be one of the most impressive South American community pairings you’ll build. Choose this over Geophagus if you want a cichlid companion that’s slightly easier to manage at smaller tank sizes.

11. Uaru Cichlids

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Uaru amphiacanthoides
• Adult Size: 10 inches (25 cm)
• Water Temperature: 80–84°F (27–29°C)
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom to mid

Uaru Cichlids are peaceful herbivores, but they run warm, 80–84°F (27–29°C) is their preferred range, which pushes into the upper end of what Blue Acaras tolerate. If your tank sits at 78–80°F (26–27°C), this pairing works. They’re large enough to not be threatened by the acara, and their herbivorous diet means no food competition. They’ll eat every live plant in the tank. Don’t set up a planted aquarium with Uarus in it, plan for driftwood, rocks, and maybe some java fern tied to wood if you want any greenery at all.

12. Bala Shark

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Balantiocheilos melanopterus
• Adult Size: 14 inches (36 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 125 gallons (473 L)
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid to top

Bala Sharks get large, 14 inches (36 cm) is real, which makes them too big to be threatened by any Blue Acara. The pairing works well in terms of temperament: Bala Sharks are skittish and non-aggressive, so they don’t provoke the acara. They need a group of 3 or more and a 125-gallon (473 L) minimum to be kept properly. This is a commitment. If you’re building a large South American or mixed Asian/South American display tank, Bala Sharks make a dramatic addition above the acara’s territory zone.

13. Firemouth Cichlids

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Thorichthys meeki
• Adult Size: 5 to 6 inches (13–15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–86°F (24–30°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Central America
• Swimming Level: Mid to bottom

Firemouth Cichlids are a great match for Blue Acaras in terms of size, temperament, and care requirements. Both are medium-sized cichlids that display territorial behavior during breeding but remain manageable outside of spawning periods. The 9/10 rating reflects how reliably this pairing works in a properly sized tank. In a 55-gallon (208 L) with territory breaks, both species establish their own zones and generally respect the boundary. When both pairs spawn simultaneously, you need the tank to be larger, 75 gallons (284 L) is where this pairing becomes truly comfortable.

14. Jack Dempsey Cichlid

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Rocio octofasciata
• Adult Size: 10 inches (25 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–86°F (24–30°C)
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Central America
• Swimming Level: All levels

Jack Dempsey Cichlids are significantly more aggressive than Blue Acaras. They can live together, but the 6/10 score is there for a reason, you’re pairing one of the calmer cichlids with one of the more aggressive ones, and the Jack Dempsey will bully the Blue Acara if the tank isn’t large enough. A 75-gallon (284 L) bare minimum, 100-gallon (379 L) preferred. Heavy hardscape to break sightlines is non-negotiable. Choose a Firemouth or Severum instead if you want a cichlid companion that’s easier to manage, Jack Dempseys are better suited to dedicated cichlid-only aggression tanks.

15. Medium Sized Gouramis

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Trichopodus spp.
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Mid to top

Medium-sized gouramis, specifically Pearl Gouramis and Gold Gouramis, can work with Blue Acaras, but they’re not a slam dunk. Gouramis are slow-moving, and slow-moving fish in a cichlid tank draw attention. The pairing works best with a well-planted tank where gouramis can find cover at the surface and mid levels, away from the acara’s primary territory zone. Pearl Gouramis are the best pick of the group: they’re the largest, the most mellow, and the most likely to hold their own if the acara gets territorial. Avoid dwarf gouramis, they’re too small and too fragile for this setup.

16. Rainbowfish

Ease: 7/10, Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia boesemani
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–77°F (22–25°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Indonesia
• Swimming Level: Middle

Rainbowfish are fast, active schooling fish that stay large enough to be safe with Blue Acaras at 4–5 inches (10–13 cm). Keep a group of at least 6, solitary rainbowfish stress out and become targets. The temperature mismatch is worth noting: Rainbowfish prefer 72–77°F (22–25°C), which is cooler than the acara’s ideal range of 74–82°F (23–28°C). A compromise around 76°F (24°C) keeps both happy. In a large, open-water tank, Rainbowfish add a stunning flash of color at mid levels while the acara works the bottom, complementary without competing.

17. Bristlenose Pleco

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
• Adult Size: 4–5 inches (10–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–80°F (23–27°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Herbivore
• Origin: Amazon
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Bristlenose Plecos are one of the most reliable tank mates for any medium cichlid, and Blue Acaras are no exception. They’re armored, algae-eating, non-territorial, and they stay on the glass and surfaces rather than competing in the acara’s bottom territory zone. At 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) they’re large enough to be ignored. Provide caves and driftwood, Bristlenose Plecos need wood as part of their diet and will claim a cave as their own, which also keeps them out of the acara’s way. This is probably my most-recommended pairing for beginners to the Blue Acara, simple, effective, and the pleco actively improves the tank by keeping algae down.

18. Zebra Loach

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Botia striata
• Adult Size: 3.5 inches (9 cm)
• Water Temperature: 73–79°F (23–26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons (114 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Zebra Loaches are a hidden gem for Blue Acara tanks. They’re small at 3.5 inches (9 cm), which makes them borderline for size, but they’re armored loaches, not soft-bodied fish, and they’re fast enough and bottom-focused enough to stay out of trouble. Keep them in groups of 5 or more, and they’ll school together on the bottom while the acara occupies mid-territory. Their striking black and white stripe pattern also adds visual contrast in the lower tank zones. Stable water conditions are key; loaches are sensitive to water quality swings.

19. Pictus Catfish

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Pimelodus pictus
• Adult Size: 3–5 inches (8–13 cm)
• Water Temperature: 75–82°F (24–28°C)
• Minimum tank size: 75 gallons (284 L)
• Care Level: Intermediate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Pictus Catfish are active, fast, and attractive, but they’re schooling fish that need groups of 4 or more to behave well, and they have long barbels that get damaged in tanks with rough gravel or cichlid harassment. The 6/10 score reflects the management required: a 75-gallon (284 L) minimum, soft substrate, and an established acara that isn’t in breeding mode. In the right setup they’re one of the most visually active bottom-dwellers you can keep. In the wrong setup, fin and barbel damage becomes a chronic problem. Choose a Synodontis over Pictus if tank management isn’t your strong suit.

20. Giant Danio

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Danio aequipinnatus
• Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
• Water Temperature: 72–75°F (22–24°C)
• Minimum tank size: 40 gallons (151 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: All

Giant Danios are the only danio species I’d recommend for a Blue Acara tank, standard danios like zebras and leopards are too small and will be eaten. Giant Danios reach 4 inches (10 cm) and are fast enough to stay out of trouble. They’re active, visible schooling fish that work upper water levels while the acara occupies bottom to mid. Keep a group of 6 or more. Their temperature preference (72–75°F / 22–24°C) runs cooler than the acara’s ideal, so aim for 74–76°F (23–24°C) as a compromise, workable for both, ideal for neither, but a healthy middle ground.

21. Convict Cichlid

Ease: 6/10, Works, but requires more careful management.

• Scientific Name: Amatitlania nigrofasciata
• Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
• Water Temperature: 74–84°F (23–29°C)
• Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (208 L)
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Origin: Central America
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Convict Cichlids can live with Blue Acaras, both are similar in size and neither dominates the other in most setups. The 6/10 rating is there because Convicts breed prolifically. A spawning Convict pair is one of the most aggressively territorial fish in the hobby, pound for pound. When Convicts are protecting fry, they’ll challenge fish much larger than themselves, including Blue Acaras. In a large tank with clear territory breaks, this can work. In anything under 75 gallons (284 L) with a breeding pair of Convicts, the aggression becomes unmanageable. Know what you’re signing up for before adding Convicts to a community setup.

Tips for Creating a Harmonious Tank

Here’s the thing that will make or break every pairing on this list: tank size. More gallons buys you more peace. It really is that simple. And the second variable is hardscape, rocks, driftwood, anything that breaks sightlines so fish can get out of each other’s view. Here’s what to actually focus on:

• Add the acara last. Establish other fish first. When the acara enters an already-occupied tank, it’s the newcomer, aggression is far more manageable than when the acara is the established owner and new fish are introduced into its territory.
• Break sightlines with hardscape. Rocks, driftwood, and dense planting create visual barriers so fish can’t see each other across the entire tank. A fish that’s out of sight isn’t being chased. This is the single most effective aggression reducer in any cichlid tank.
• Watch the breeding cycles. When a Blue Acara pair spawns, the aggression radius expands immediately. You’ll see it, the pair clusters around a flat surface and starts chasing everything nearby. Have a plan: a spare tank, or a large enough main tank where other fish can flee. Don’t wait until something is injured.
• Consider a solo acara. A single Blue Acara as a centerpiece fish in a community tank with no breeding partner eliminates the aggression spike entirely. It’s not uncommon and it simplifies tank mate selection considerably.

Mark’s Pick: Bristlenose Pleco plus a group of 6+ Corydoras sterbai (or duplicareus) on the bottom, with a school of 8+ Congo Tetras or Giant Danios in the mid-to-upper levels. The bottom crew handles cleanup and stays out of the acara’s territory, the upper school adds movement and color without competing. It’s a clean, reliable stack that works for both planted tanks and biotope setups, and the cory group adds enough bottom activity that the acara doesn’t fixate on any single tank mate.

Should You Set Up a Blue Acara Community Tank?

Blue Acara vs. Firemouth vs. Severum, Which South American Cichlid Is Right for You?

These three come up in the same conversation constantly. If you’re debating between them, here’s my honest take:

• Blue Acara: the best color of the three, the most community-friendly, and workable in a 55-gallon (208 L). This is the one I’d tell most people to start with, cichlid personality without needing an all-cichlid tank.
• Firemouth: calmer, easier to manage during breeding, more forgiving in moderately hard water. Less dramatic than the Acara, but if you’re genuinely new to cichlid keeping, the Firemouth gives you more margin for error.
• Severum: when you want a bigger statement fish and have the tank for it, 75+ gallons (284+ L). Surprisingly mellow for its size. The heavyweight option if you’re building a South American display tank and want one fish that fills the frame.

Good Fit If:

• You have a 55-gallon (208 L) or larger tank with hiding spots, caves, and hardscape territory breaks
• You keep medium-to-large fish that can hold their own or avoid the acara’s attention
• You want a South American biotope community with compatible water parameters (pH 6.5–7.5)
• You’re adding the acara last, after other fish are established in the tank
• You’re prepared to manage breeding-season aggression, either with a larger tank or a breeding partition

Avoid If:

• You have small fish under 3 inches (8 cm), they’ll be eaten as the acara matures, even if they’re safe at first
• You want a fully peaceful community, Blue Acaras have breeding-season aggression that affects the whole tank
• You keep delicate, slow-moving, or nervous fish that don’t handle cichlid presence well
• Your tank runs hard and alkaline, Blue Acaras need soft to moderately hard water at neutral to slightly acidic pH
• Your tank is under 55 gallons (208 L) and already has established fish, adding an acara to a crowded small tank is a recipe for injury

Frequently Asked Questions

Closing Thoughts

The Blue Acara is one of the few cichlids where you actually get to build a real community, not just a cichlid tank with one dominant fish and everyone else surviving around it. Most South American cichlids at this size are too aggressive for that. The Blue Acara isn’t. Get the tank size right, add the acara last, break up the sightlines with hardscape, and plan for the breeding cycle before it happens. Do those four things, and this fish rewards you with color, personality, and a tank that actually functions as a community, not just a truce.

The Blue Acara is the best argument I know for giving cichlids a chance if you’ve been afraid to try them.

Have you kept Blue Acaras in a community tank? Drop your experience in the comments, we always want to hear what’s working (and what isn’t) from hobbyists in the field.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide, your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Gouramis are a staple in my freshwater recommendations. peaceful, colorful, and hardy once established. But tank mate compatibility takes some thought, especially for dwarf gouramis which can be more sensitive than people expect. After keeping them in community setups for years, here’s what I’ve found actually works.

Gouramis are labyrinth fish, which means they breathe surface air. and that quirk shapes everything about how they behave in a community tank. In my experience, the species matters enormously when it comes to tank mates. Honey gouramis are genuinely peaceful and easy to mix. Dwarf gouramis can be surprisingly nippy and territorial, especially males toward anything that resembles them in color or shape. Giant gouramis are a different animal entirely. they’ll eventually eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. The tank mates that work best are mid- and bottom-dwelling fish that stay out of a gourami’s surface territory and don’t have flowing fins that invite fin-nipping. Here are 15 proven picks that work across most gourami setups.

If you’re looking to bring the beauty of Gourami fish into your home aquarium, this post will show you how. With their vibrant colors and generally peaceful demeanor in most breeds, these popular freshwater species make great additions to any community tank setup when paired with compatible partners! We’ll go over tips on selecting suitable Gourami tank mates that allow them (and you) to enjoy a beautiful harmony under the sea.

Understanding The Species

Gouramis are beautiful aquatic creatures that have their roots in Eastern and Southern Asia¹, commonly spotted in marshy streams or water bodies such as wetlands. These fish, known for their peaceful temperament, often get picked up to be part of community tanks where it’s critical to choose its tank mates carefully according to the Gourami’s behavior needs, habitat preferences, and even specific environmental requirements. To keep your pet healthy, one must select appropriate companions so they may feel comfortable with each other while residing together.

Male Vs Female Differences

When selecting tank mates, it is important to understand the differences between male and females. Males have brighter and bolder colors. They are often sold more in over females in fish stores. Males are usually shorter and thinner compared to their female counterparts. This color comes with added aggression towards fish that look like them or other males.

Females, on the other hand, are larger and rounder. They are less aggressive but also less colorful than the males. You would have your best chance of success with females over males.

Breed Differences

Some breeds are more aggressive than others. For example, the Gold Gourami and Dwarf Gourami are known in the hobby for their semi-aggressive nature. In contrast, the Honey and Pearl Gourami are two of the most peaceful Gourami fish you can purchase in the hobby and will get along with just about any fish.

Habitat Requirements And Parameters

Maintaining a healthy and stress-free environment is an essential step when looking after Gouramis. The best conditions for them require a pH of 6.8 to 7.8, with the water hardness ranging from 3 dKH up to 8 dKH at temperatures between 74°F and 80°F Fahrenheit. A top notch filtration system, as well as regularly cleaning out any waste or leftover food will help keep your tank pristine.

Tropical fish flakes and pellets are their main diet staple, but it’s worth supplementing with higher quality foods like frozen food or cultivated live foods.

Top 15 Gourami Tank Mates

We have now achieved a better understanding of Gouramis and their needs, so it’s the right time to examine 15 best tank mates that will cohabitate successfully with your gourami. These particular species were cautiously chosen based on demeandor, compatibility as well as their capacity to create an ideal community aquarium environment.

Each one was elected for its potential of being capable of peacefully living together with Gouramis making them great companions inside the same habitat or enclosure.

1. Neon Tetra

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• pH: 6 to 8
• Water Temperature: 72 and 76°F.
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Neon Tetras are a great addition to any community tank, with their bright red and blue stripes adding plenty of colors. These peaceful schooling fish make excellent companions for Gouramis as they live peacefully in the same environment (given enough hiding spots such as plants or other shelters) and enjoy similar water conditions. This freshwater fish species is often regarded as an ideal choice for picking out suitable tank mates for your aquarium setup!

2. Cardinal Tetra

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• pH: 4.6 to 6.2 range
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 81°F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Cardinal Tetras are an ideal choice when looking for tank mates to go with Gouramis. They may be slightly bigger than the Neon varieties, but just like their relatives, they are peaceful community fish and can get on well together in one environment. If you’re after larger schooling fish, then Cardinals make a great choice pick! To keep them comfortable, it’s important to maintain water temperatures around 24°C and create plenty of hiding spots by using leaf litter as well as floating plants if opting for a blackwater setup.

3. Harlequin Rasbora

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• pH: 6.0 to 7.5
• Water Temperature: 72 and 81°F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Harlequins are incredibly peaceful, colorful fish that can make perfect tankmates for Gouramis and betta. These stunning aquatic animals feature orange bodies with distinctive black triangle patterning. A sense of security is gained when living in groups, so they should always be housed alongside their own kind to increase activity levels.

When it comes time to set up an aquarium environment suitable for these amazing creatures, the water must move slowly along with plenty of vegetation, plus ample swimming room as well as hiding places necessary to reduce stress.

4. Rainbowfish

• Scientific Name: Melanotaeniidae
• Adult Size: 4.7 inches
• pH: 7.0 to 8.0
• Water Temperature: 74° and 78° F
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Struggling to find dwarf gourami tank mates? Rainbowfish are ideal tank mates for nearly all Gourami breeds in a community tank. Distinguished by their bright hues and gentle demeanors, they can peacefully cohabitate with the species without any difficulties. Notable traits of Rainbowfish include:

• Vivid colors
• Docile temperament
• Energetic swimmers

They tend to stay towards the midsection and top part of aquariums. While they do swim in the territory of gouramis, their size keeps them from getting pushed around.

With these vibrant fish being present, your tank will take on more life. They’re robust enough to thrive under various conditions when it comes to water parameters, so you can be sure that introducing them into a Gourami environment won’t bring about any troubles if given plenty of spots for sheltering away from stressors plus space where they may flaunt around unrestrictedly.

5. Corydoras Catfish

• Scientific Name: Corydoras
• Adult Size: 2.5 to 12 cm (1.0 to 4.7 in)
• pH: 6.5 to 7.8
• Water Temperature: 72 and 82°F.
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Corydoras Catfish are an ideal tankmate for Gouramis, as they remain peaceful and stay towards the bottom. A group of six or more is recommended to observe schooling behavior while also creating a secure environment for them. Not only that, but these fish have scavenging capabilities, which help maintain a clean aquarium by consuming leftover food bits or other debris scattered around it. Corydoras catfish make great additions to any home aquarium!

6. Otocinclus

• Scientific Name: Otocinclus
• Adult Size: 1 1/2. 2 inches
• pH: 6.0 to 7.5
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Otocinclus, otherwise known as the “dwarf suckermouth catfish” are an excellent tank mate for Gouramis and other fish because they eat algae and help keep tanks clean. It is suggested that at least five be placed together in one aquarium since Otocinclus tend to prefer company from their own kind.

Before introducing them into a new habitat, it’s essential that an established freshwater home has plenty of natural food sources, such as algae already available so these smaller fish have access to meals right away. Always give supplement food as they are known for doing too good of a job at wiping away algae!

7. Cherry Barb

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• pH: 6 to 8
• Water Temperature: 73 and 81°F.
• Minimum Tank Size: 25 to 30 gallons

Cherry Barbs are renowned for their peaceful temperament and vivacious red hue, making them an ideal choice of schooling fish to add to any community tank. These beautiful creatures thrive best in heavily planted tanks with plenty of hiding spots. A school should consist of at least eight individuals. When placed together with Gouramis, they will coexist peacefully so long as each species is given ample space and shelter within the environment.

8. Gold Barb

• Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• pH: 6 to 8
• Water Temperature: 65 and 75°F.
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Gold Barbs, are an excellent choice and can happily coexist in a community aquarium. These attractive fish need plenty of areas to explore or hide amongst while also requiring stable water conditions within the ideal range. This makes them perfect even for novice aquarists looking to add some vibrant life to their Gourami setup!

9. Zebra Loach

• Scientific Name: Botia Striata
• Adult Size: 3.5 inches
• pH: 6.5 to 7.5
• Water Temperature: 73 and 79°F
• Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons

Zebra Loaches are great tank mates for Gouramis and Zebra Danios, since they’re peaceful fish that won’t overpower their size. These eye-catching creatures have black and white stripes resembling the pattern of a zebra. As well as providing an aesthetically pleasing element in the aquarium, these loaches also help to keep pest snail populations at bay, making them essential additions to your Gourami tank!

10. Kuhli Loach

• Scientific Name: Pangio Kuhlii
• Adult Size: 4 inches
• pH: 5.5 to 6.5
• Water Temperature: 73 and 86°F
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Kuhli Loaches are the perfect aquatic pet for Gourami enthusiasts due to their nocturnal, snake-like features and peaceful temperament. With a scale-less body covered in alternating dark and light stripes, they bring quite an interesting addition to your tank!

These curious fish mainly originate from areas such as Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia, Borneo or Java. For maximum enjoyment of these creatures, it’s best to have them swimming with at least eight mates so that you can witness all the amazing group activities they may get up to.

For sure, keeping Kuhli Loaches is not only mesmerizing but also practical if one has Gouramis since this species will mind its own business without bothering anyone else around it.

11. Platy Fish

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
• Adult Size: 2-3 inches
• pH: 7.0 to 8.5
• Water Temperature: 72 ° to 82 °F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons

Platy Fish are attractive and easy to look after, with the same preferred aquatic conditions as Gouramis. The recommended temperatures range from 72-78°F, a pH level of 6.5-7.5 is acceptable along with a hardness between 5-15 dGH.

When tending to Platy Fish it’s important that they have areas where they can hide away and not be mixed in with overly aggressive fish species. These placid creatures get along well cohabiting their habitats peacefully with Gouramis, who require comparable water parameters! If you keep a more aggressive gourami, consider the next livebearer below. I generally don’t recommend Endler’s or guppies as they can be small for most breeds outside of a Sparkling or Honey Gourami.

12. Molly Fish

• Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops, P. latipinna, P. velifera, etc.
• Adult Size: 4 inches
• pH: 7.0 to 8.5
• Water Temperature: 72 ° to 82 °F
• Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons

Molly Fish are a peaceful species of fish, tolerant and apt to cohabitate in an aquarium environment with Gouramis. These fish boast robust healthiness as well as being willing eaters alongside the other type of aquatic animals inhabiting the same space.

It’s essential that Molly Fish possess adequate hiding spots plus open spaces for swimming so they remain comfortable. While they are peaceful, they are big enough to not be bullied with most Gourami breeds. Both Mollies and Gouramis have omnivorous dietary habits, so there is no issue providing them both with food coming from similar sources. Mollies are also decent cleaner fish as they will consume algae in the aquarium.

13. Danio Fish

• Scientific Name: Danio spp.
• Adult Size: 1 to 4 inches
• pH: 6 to 7.5
• Water Temperature: 72 ° to 81 °F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons for most species

Danio Fish are calm and peaceful creatures. They originate from South Asia as well as Southeast Asia, making them a great choice for densely planted tanks with Gouramis, since they’re very hardy and can adapt quickly to their environment. Danio fish are very fish and should be able to dodge most aggression attempts as long as you give them enough space to maneuver. To ensure an enjoyable aquatic habitat both during the day and night, it’s essential that these active little swimmers have sufficient space available at all times.

14. Amano Shrimp

• Scientific Name: Caridina multidetata
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• pH: 6 to 7.5
• Water Temperature: 65 ° to 78 °F
• Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons for most species

The Amano Shrimp is a larger variety of dwarf shrimp and makes an interesting addition to any tank with Gouramis. Its ability to clean the area by consuming algae, coupled with its peaceful nature, gives it many benefits for this type of environment. As they are bigger than other shrimp types, there is less chance that Gouramis will see them as food!

15. Nerite Snails

• Scientific Name: Neritina spp
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• pH: 6 to 8
• Water Temperature: 65 ° to 85 °F
• Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons

Nerite snails are beloved by aquarium fanatics for their stunning looks and algae-eating nature, which helps to keep tanks pristine. They arrive in a selection of colors and patterns that make them stand out from the rest.

These interesting snails are ideal companions when it comes to keeping Gouramis, as they won’t multiply like some other species do if kept in freshwater aquariums, making them an effective addition with no added complications!

Other Fish Species

Here are other species that didn’t make our list but are mentioned with commentary to help you with your decision:

• Betta fish – Not compatible in most cases. Possible to get along with Pearl and Honey Gouramis
• Glass catfish – A very peaceful fish best with smaller breeds
• Mystery Snail – Great, just can be large
• Chili Rasboras – Great for peaceful smaller breeds. Risky with dwarf gouramis unless tank is long
• Angelfish – Dependent on gourami breed. Pearl gouramis are your best bet

Tips For Creating A Harmonious Community Tank

Creating a pleasant tank for Gouramis and their companions necessitates care in setup. By selecting appropriate tank mates, managing the perfect water conditions, and offering adequate hiding spots, you can create an atmosphere that is soothing as well as unperturbed for your fish species.

You must bear in mind that each kind of fish has distinct needs to be fulfilled. Thus, it’s vital to fulfill these requirements so that there will be equilibrium between them and other sorts of aquatic life in this community aquarium setup.

Providing Adequate Hiding Spots

Incorporating elements like plants, rocks and driftwood into the aquarium is paramount for reducing aggression in your Gouramis and their tank mates. Having a plethora of hiding spots will decrease competition for resources among fish within the tank, which helps to avoid disputes regarding territory.

Another factor is keeping surface dwelling fish to a minium. Stick to mid and bottom level swimmers your gouramis do not feel threatened.

Frequently Asked Questions

Gourami Tank Mates at a Glance

Fish	Compatibility	Tank Zone	Notes
Harlequin Rasbora	Excellent	Mid	Peaceful, no fin-nipping, great color contrast
Neon Tetra	Good	Mid-lower	Keep in groups of 8+; avoid with large aggressive gouramis
Corydoras	Excellent	Bottom	Non-competitive, different zone, reliable
Otocinclus	Excellent	Bottom	Algae cleaners, non-threatening
Cherry Barb	Good	Mid	Peaceful barb; avoid tiger barbs
Kuhli Loach	Excellent	Bottom	Nocturnal, substrate-dwelling, no competition
Nerite Snails	Excellent	All	Algae control, ignored by gouramis
Tiger Barbs	Poor	Mid	Fin-nippers; will stress and damage gouramis
Male Bettas	Poor	Top-mid	Same territory, similar shape; serious aggression risk

Avoid If:

• You want to keep multiple male gouramis of the same species: they will fight as they mature
• Your tank is under 29 gallons (110 L): territory disputes are harder to manage in smaller spaces
• You choose fin-nipping species (tiger barbs, serpae tetras): damaged fins lead to infection and chronic stress
• You add a betta to a gourami tank: both are labyrinth fish with overlapping territory at the surface

Closing Thoughts

With the right planning and attention to detail, you can provide a thriving environment for your Gourami community tank that will bring pleasure and beauty into your home for many years. Making sure all the fish’ needs are met – such as selecting appropriate tank mates that complement each other in terms of size, temperament, habitat requirements etc. is key to achieving harmony within this unique aquarium setup.

African Dwarf Frogs are not fish. That distinction matters more than anything else when picking tank mates. They’re nearly blind, slow to find food, and completely defenseless, and most community fish will exploit every one of those weaknesses without you even realizing it. Picking the wrong tank mates doesn’t cause a dramatic fight. It causes your frogs to quietly starve over weeks while looking perfectly fine.

The animal that can’t find food fast enough will always lose. With African Dwarf Frogs, that’s always them.

What People Get Wrong About ADF Tank Mates

The most common mistake I see? People pick “peaceful” fish and consider the job done. Peaceful means non-aggressive, it does not mean compatible. A Neon Tetra won’t bite your frog. But it will absolutely eat every bloodworm before your frog figures out where dinner is. African Dwarf Frogs locate food by smell and water vibration. They are slow hunters in a tank full of fast ones. Peaceful fish will outcompete them at every feeding, and the frog won’t complain until it’s too late. I’ve watched this play out dozens of times at the store level: keepers bring in a frog they thought was “just getting old” when the real issue was six months of losing every meal to a neon tetra.

The second big misconception: “they eat fish flakes.” They don’t, not reliably. ADFs need meaty sinking foods, bloodworms, brine shrimp, frog pellets. Flake food floats. Your frogs will miss it every time. Meanwhile every fish in the tank just got an easy meal.

The Biggest Mistake ADF Keepers Make

Keeping African Dwarf Frogs in a community tank without target feeding is the fastest way to lose them slowly. The frogs look active. They swim to the surface, they do their little wiggle dance, they seem fine. But if fast feeders are in the tank, the frogs aren’t actually getting food, they’re just not getting enough of it yet. I’ve seen frogs survive for months like this before owners noticed something was wrong, by which point the frogs were too weak to recover. The warning signs (lethargy, thinning body, sitting at the bottom) show up late. Don’t wait for them.

African Dwarf Frog: What You’re Actually Working With

African Dwarf Frogs (Hymenochirus boettgeri) grow to about 1.5–2 inches (4–5 cm) fully grown. They’re fully aquatic (they never leave the water) but they do surface to breathe air. They need to reach the surface easily, so avoid tanks taller than 12 inches (30 cm) without structure to climb. Water temperature should hold at 72–78°F (22–26°C). They’re sensitive to swings, a cheap heater that cycles up and down is a problem for them long-term.

Diet is meaty and sinking: frozen bloodworms, frozen brine shrimp, dedicated frog pellets. They eat 2–3 times per week, not daily. And they eat slowly, by feel. Any tankmate that’s faster than them at the food (which is almost every fish) needs to be managed carefully.

Size And Space Requirements

Two frogs can live in a 10-gallon (38 L) tank. Add community fish and you need at least a 20-gallon (75 L) tank: not because of the frogs, but because more fish need more water volume and filtration to stay stable. Don’t keep tank mates larger than 3 inches (7.5 cm). Anything bigger starts looking at a 1.5-inch frog as a snack. And avoid tall, deep tanks, ADFs need short swimming distances to breathe.

Water Conditions And Environment

Target temperature: 72–78°F (22–26°C). pH: 6.5–7.5. Low to moderate flow, strong current exhausts them. Dense planting matters: ADFs spend a lot of time hiding and resting on leaves near the surface. Without cover, they stress. And stressed frogs stop eating, which compounds the food competition problem. A planted 20-gallon (75 L) with a sponge filter and slow-moving surface fish is the sweet spot.

The Reality of Keeping ADFs in a Community Tank

Feeding time is where this setup succeeds or fails. In practice, what works: turn off the filter flow briefly, drop a small portion of frozen bloodworms near the frog using tweezers or a turkey baster, then feed the fish on the opposite end of the tank. Give the frogs 5 minutes to find their food before the fish get near them. It sounds like more work than it is, once you’re in the habit, it takes 90 seconds. But if you skip it, your frogs are hungry.

The other reality nobody talks about: ADFs are escape artists. Any gap in the lid is a gap they will find. I’ve known people who found their frog dried out on the floor the morning after adding one to a tank with an open canopy. Tight-fitting lid. Non-negotiable. I’ve told this to customers more times than I can count, ADFs and mesh lids do not mix.

Beyond feeding, ADFs are genuinely enjoyable to watch in a peaceful community. They’re odd in a great way, they do a thing called “singing” (males vibrate to attract females), they float spread-eagle at the surface (which looks alarming but is normal), and they have this clumsy, endearing way of moving through the water. The right community tank lets you appreciate all of that without the stress of watching them get bullied or starve.

The 21 Best African Dwarf Frog Tank Mates

Every species on this list meets three criteria: similar temperature range to ADFs (72–78°F / 22–26°C), peaceful and non-nippy, and either a mid-to-surface feeder or slow enough not to dominate the frog at mealtime. I’ve also flagged the one species on this list (White Cloud Minnow) that deserves a temperature caution before you buy.

• Scientific Name
• Adult Size
• Water Temperature Range
• Minimum Tank Size
• Care Level
• Diet
• Origin
• Swimming Level

Expert Take

After 25+ years in the hobby and time managing aquarium stores, I’ve seen more ADF community tanks fail slowly than almost any other setup, and the cause is almost always the same. African Dwarf Frogs are one of the most misunderstood community tank residents in the hobby. People treat them like they’re just small, weird-looking fish. They are not. They’re amphibians with fundamentally different sensory systems, feeding mechanics, and survival instincts. I’ve watched ADFs in community tanks slowly waste away over months while their owners thought everything was fine, because the frogs kept swimming to the surface on schedule and didn’t show obvious stress signals. The problem was that no food was actually reaching them. The fish got it first, every time. Target feeding isn’t an advanced technique. It’s basic responsible husbandry for this species in any mixed setup. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Betta Fish	3 inches,	5 gallons	9/10	High
Corydoras Catfish	2 to 3 inches,	10 gallons	7/10	High
Kuhli Loach	4. 5 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Neon Tetras	1.5 inches	10 gallons	7/10	High
Cardinal Tetra	1.5 inches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Rummy Nose Tetra	1.5 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Cherry Barb	2 inches	25 gallons	9/10	High
White Cloud Minnow	1 inch	10 gallons	9/10	High
Celestial Pearl Danio	1 inch	10 gallons	7/10	High
Harlequin Rasbora	2 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Dwarf Rainbowfish (Praecox)	2.5 to 3 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Chili Rasbora	1 inch	10 gallons	7/10	High
Otocinclus	1.5 to 2 inches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Zebra Danios	1 inch	10 gallons	9/10	High
Honey Gourami	2 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Fancy Guppy	2 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Platies	2-3 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Endler’s Livebearer	1.5 inches	10 gallons	9/10	High
Nerite Snails	0.5 to 1 inch	5 gallons	9/10	High
Cherry Shrimp	1 to 1.25 inches	5 gallons	9/10	High
Amano Shrimp	2 inches	5 gallons	9/10	High

1. Betta Fish

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Adult Size: 3 inches,
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 80°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Carnivore
• Origin. Thailand
• Swimming Level. Top to middle

We start off the list with everyone’s favorite. While looking at color patterns and personalities, you may think they are one of the best tank mates for your fish, but that is not always the case. Males are at a higher risk of fighting, with Plakat breeds being the most risky. While it is possible to use them together, they are one of the riskiest on this list. However, they are extremely popular so I felt it was good to include them on the list. You will have your best luck with a female non plakat breed.

2. Corydoras Catfish

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches,
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F (22 to 26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Bottom

Corydoras Catfish are good companions for African Dwarf Frogs, since they both demand similar levels of care and measure around the same size. These catfish have slender figures that come in either black or brown colors with a maximum length up to 2.5 inches. Their playful attitude makes them excellent tank mates for dwarf frogs.

It is essential to provide plenty of places where they can hide away when needed. These fish enjoy taking refuge by burrowing into the substrate as well as finding snug spots elsewhere in their habitat.

3. Kuhli Loach

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pangio Kuhlii
• Adult Size: 4. 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73 to 86° F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level. Bottom

African Dwarf Frogs can benefit from having a Kuhli Loach as a tankmate. These fish have an eel-like appearance with their slender body and black stripe, growing up to 5 inches in size. They are peaceful creatures that prefer living in groups, which makes them great for community tanks. They are more active at night. They will hide among the plants or burrow deep down into substrate bedding during the day.

4. Neon Tetras

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70 ° to 79 °F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Top to Middle

The Neon Tetra is a small, eye-catching fish that is kept in harmony with African Dwarf Frogs within the same tank. These species are renowned for their vibrant red and blue stripes, which bring vividness to any aquarium setup. In order to get the most out of these delightful creatures, it’s recommended they should always travel in packs of six or more – this makes them schooling fish naturally gravitating towards each other’s company.

In terms of temperature preferences and pH needs, these little beauties require 70°F. 81°F water temperature range along with 6.0. 7.0 on your pH scale. Being similar requirements between african dwarf frogs and neon tetras means coexistence together has proved easy, making for a great dwarf frog tank mate.

5. Cardinal Tetra

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 81°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Mid to Top

Cardinal Tetras make for a cheerful addition to any community tank. These small, peaceful fish have striking coloration with red stripes that run along their bodies and are contrasted by vibrant blue streaks above them. Cardinal Tetras do best in temperatures between 73°F and 81°F. They are social creatures, too, so it is recommended to keep at least six of the same species together in one aquarium if you want an active atmosphere. African dwarfs frogs is kept successfully alongside these schooling fish since they share similar needs, such as neutral to acidic pH levels ranging from 6.0-7.0.

Hard Rule: If you cannot target feed your ADFs separately from the rest of the tank at every feeding, do not keep them in a community setup. A frog that isn’t eating isn’t just hungry, it’s dying on a slow schedule. That’s the only rule that matters.

6. Rummy Nose Tetra

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Hemigrammus bleheri
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 75°F to 85°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Mid to Top

The Rummy Nose Tetra is a great fit for African Dwarf Frog tanks due to their peaceful demeanor and similar care requirements. These fish are distinctive thanks to the striking black and white stripes that form on its tail, as well as its bright red nose. When kept in schools with at least six members, these creatures will thrive within an environment that maintains temperatures between 75°F-85°F paired alongside a pH range 6.4-7.0., making them perfectly suitable tank mates for African Dwarfs! Their interesting colors add something special to any frog tank setup while taking little effort from you. An ideal companion species all around!

7. Cherry Barb

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 81°F
• Minimum tank size: 25 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level. All

Cherry Barbs are schooling fish that can coexist peacefully with African Dwarf Frogs. This species has a striking red coloring and is docile, making it an ideal tankmate for your dwarf frogs. When it comes to temperature range and pH level, they should have water between 73°F to 81°F and 6.0-7.0, respectively. The more colorful creatures there are in the group (at least six), the better! All things considered, the Cherry Barb, with their captivating features, plus their peaceful nature make them great companion animals for African Dwarves.

8. White Cloud Minnow

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 64°F to 72°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. China
• Swimming Level. Mid to Top

White Cloud Minnows are a hardy species that can live in harmony with African Dwarf Frogs when kept together in the same tank. This small fish has an elegant silver body, decorated by a thin black line and radiant red fins. For them to thrive optimally, water temperature should be between 64°F and 72°F while pH levels ranging from 6.0 to 8.0 is recommended for optimal health of these aquatic dwellers.

Given their schooling nature, at least six individuals must coexist simultaneously so they can feel relaxed around each other. Thanks also to its peaceful disposition, it will get along with your drawf frog just fine.

9. Celestial Pearl Danio

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Danio margaritatus
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 76°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South East Asia
• Swimming Level. Midwater

The Celestial Pearl Danio, also known as Galaxy Rasbora, is an attractive fish that can peacefully coexist with African Dwarf Frogs if given the right care. They have a blue body speckled with white spots resembling stars and require a temperature of 72°F to 76°F along with a pH range of 6.5-7.5 for ideal living conditions. These should be kept in groups at least six since they are schooling fish. It is a wonderful, colorful fish that compliments the African dwarf frog well.

10. Harlequin Rasbora

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 71°F to 80°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South East Asia
• Swimming Level. Midwater

Harlequin Rasboras are schooling fish with silver bodies featuring a distinct triangular black patch. It is suggested to keep them in groups of six or more and they prefer water temperatures between 71°F – 80°F plus pH ranges from 6.0-7.0, making them an ideal addition to any African dwarf frog tank. Their peaceful nature makes it possible for the community tank setup as well! With its unique coloring, these vibrant creatures will make quite the splash in your frog tank habitat.

11. Dwarf Rainbowfish (Praecox)

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
• Adult Size: 2.5 to 3 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Indonesia
• Swimming Level. Top to Mid

For a vibrant and compatible tankmate for your African Dwarf Frogs, the Dwarf Rainbowfish is an ideal choice. This colorful fish species can live harmoniously in well-planted tanks with its non-aggressive nature. These rainbowfish have bright blue bodies that are set off by orange or red fins. They shimmer like rainbows! To keep this species happy, you should provide water temperatures between 72°F – 82°F and maintain pH levels at 7.0 to 8.0. They need to in a group of at least six, which will pump up the tank requirements higher to at least 20 gallons to house them and frogs.

12. Chili Rasbora

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 70°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Carnivorous
• Origin. Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level. Midwater

Chili Rasboras are tiny, peaceful fish with a bright red body featuring a black stripe down the side. The ideal environment for them is water between 70°F and 82°F. Recommended pH levels are from 6.0 to 7.0, though they have been known to tolerate lower pH levels. They and should be kept in groups of at least six so they exhibit their schooling behavior. They are peaceful fish that shouldn’t have issues with african dwarf frog and most other fish.

13. Otocinclus

Ease: 7/10: Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
• Adult Size: 1.5 to 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 79°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet. Herbivore
• Origin. Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level. Bottom to Middle

Otocinclus, a small and non-aggressive catfish species that can range from black to brown coloration with an average size of 2 inches in length. They are a great tankmate for your African dwarf frogs. These fish are good at scavenging uneaten food items and will also do an excellent job at eating algae. Their unique look adds even more visual interest to your community aquarium. Not competing with them over food resources, Otocinclus forms a safe relationship, enabling both species to thrive together peacefully. Just make sure you do supplemental feedings with food like algae wafers if you run out of algae in the tank!

14. Zebra Danios

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Danio rerio
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 81°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. India
• Swimming Level. All

Zebra Danios are ideal for keeping in a community tank with African Dwarf Frogs. Peaceful and active, these fish have distinctive silver-blue stripes running along their bodies to make an interesting addition to the aquarium environment. With optimal water temperatures of 72°F – 81°F and pH levels of 6.5, 7.2, they should be kept in groups of six or more as schooling fish will bring out the playful side that makes them such great companions for your dwarf frog setup! Always feed these fish first before your frog as their fast nature will easily leave your frog short of food if you don’t!

15. Honey Gourami

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. India
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Honey Gourami is a peaceful, serene fish that could coexist with African Dwarf Frogs in an aquarium filled with plants. Their bodies have a golden hue and feature stripes running along the side from head to tail. This species of tropical fish prefers water temperatures between 74°F-82°F combined with pH levels ranging from 6.0 to 7.5.

As peaceful as they may be, Honey Gouramis tend to prefer places where they can find refuge. Thus, it’s essential you give them adequate hiding spots within your tank by having enough decorations and greenery inside their environment so these shy creatures feel more at ease around their new African Dwarf Frog tank mates.

16. Fancy Guppy

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Fancy Guppies, a breed of brilliantly colored fish, is kept alongside African Dwarf Frogs in an aquarium. With males displaying more vivid colors than females, these live bearers require water temperatures between 72-82°F and pH levels from 6.8 to 7.8 for optimal health. Making them ideal tank mates for your dwarf frogs due to their peaceful nature!

As a word of caution with any livebearer, they reproduce rapidly. Actively monitor the number of Fancy Guppy individuals you have so that no overcrowding takes place within your aquascape ecosystem!

17. Platies

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
• Adult Size: 2-3 inches
• Water Temperature: 70°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Platies make an attractive and colorful addition to any community tank. Their non-aggressive nature makes them perfect companions for African Dwarf Frogs, but due to their live-bearing status there is a need for regular monitoring in order not to overcrowd the aquarium with fry. The ideal environment should maintain water temperatures between 70°F – 82°F with a pH range of 7.0 to 8.5.

18. Endler’s Livebearer

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 64°F to 82°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. South America
• Swimming Level. Middle to top

Endler’s Livebearer, a vivid-colored fish that is peaceful and non-aggressive in nature, require a larger tank to prevent overpopulation when living with African Dwarf Frogs. These amazing creatures have various fluorescent hues, which makes them quite outstanding within the aquarium. Endlers prefer temperatures between 64°F and 82°F as well as a pH range of 5.5 to 8.0. These wide parameter tolerates make it feasible for these stunning creatures to be compatible cohabitants alongside your dwarf frogs!

Though capable of multiplying quickly due to their live-bearing characteristic, proper population management would keep overcrowding from occurring where they are housed.

19. Nerite Snails

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Neritina spp
• Adult Size: 0.5 to 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 65°F to 85°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Herbivore
• Origin. Atlantic
• Swimming Level. All

Nerite snails, with their diverse range of colors and patterns, are an interesting addition to any community tank. Ideal conditions for these peaceful non-aggressive creatures include a water temperature between 65°F – 85°F and pH 7.0. 8.5. Their wide range makes them suitable companions alongside your African Dwarf Frogs who do not compete over food resources in the same habitat. Unfortunately, they may lay eggs around the aquarium. While they won’t hatch because babies need brackish water to survive, it may be become an eyesore if they are purchased from the pet store in large numbers.

20. Cherry Shrimp

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
• Adult Size: 1 to 1.25 inches
• Water Temperature: 65°F to 73°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Taiwan
• Swimming Level. All

The Cherry Shrimp is a vivid, small-sized crustacean that is placed in the same tank as African Dwarf Frogs but could also potentially become their prey. This appealing shrimp requires waters with temperatures between 65°F to 73°F and pH levels of 6.0 up to 7.5 for it to thrive. They are an amiable creature and make great companions when cohabitating with dwarf frogs. They need a lot plants and your frogs need to be well fed for them not to be seen as snacks to your frog. The next shrimp will be a better option.

21. Amano Shrimp

Ease: 9/10: One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Caridina multidetata
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 65°F to 78°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet. Omnivore
• Origin. Japan
• Swimming Level. All

Amano shrimp are great candidates for tankmates to African Dwarf Frogs since they will not be eaten. These shrimps have a grey body with dark stripes across them and can survive comfortably in water temperatures between 70°F-80°F as well as pH of 6.0-7.0. These peaceful creatures help keep tanks clean by eating algae and other debris from the bottom substrate, making them perfect companions for your dwarf frogs! Bamboo shrimp also work great too.

Tank Mates To Avoid

This list is more important than the recommended list. Get this wrong and you don’t just have compatibility issues, you have a frog that’s being harassed, bitten, or slowly starved.

• Tiger Barbs, Serpae Tetras, Black Skirt Tetras: fin nippers. ADFs have flowing limbs that wave in the current. These fish will bite them constantly. The frogs can’t defend themselves and can’t escape.
• Cichlids (any species): even “peaceful” cichlids like keyhole or German Blue Rams are too territorial for ADFs. Rams may not bite the frog, but they will stake out territory and stress it into not eating.
• Bettas (male): widely recommended online, frequently a disaster in practice. Male bettas often attack the frogs’ waving legs, mistaking them for rival fish. I’ve heard from enough hobbyists who tried this to know it’s a significant risk. The aquarium internet loves this pairing. The frogs often don’t.
• African Clawed Frogs: look nearly identical to ADFs but are predatory and can grow to 5 inches (13 cm). They will eat your African Dwarf Frogs. This is one of the most common misidentification problems in the hobby. Before you buy a “dwarf frog,” check the feet, ADFs have webbed feet on all four limbs. Clawed frogs have claws on the back feet.
• Large or fast-moving fish at high stocking density: not aggressive, but they create constant motion that stresses slow-moving ADFs and dominate feeding time completely. Even if nobody gets hurt, the frogs lose.
• Goldfish: totally wrong water temperature. Goldfish need 65–72°F (18–22°C). ADFs need 72–78°F (22–26°C). You cannot meet both requirements in the same tank.
• Oscar, Jack Dempsey, or any large predatory fish: a 1.5-inch frog is a snack. Full stop.

Building a Community Tank That Actually Works

A successful ADF community tank is built around one principle: reduce competition for food. Everything else (tank size, stocking, decoration) supports that goal.

• Target feed every time. Use tweezers or a turkey baster to place sinking food directly in front of your frogs. Feed the fish on the opposite end simultaneously. This is not optional, it’s the difference between frogs that thrive and frogs that waste away.
• Layer your stocking vertically. ADFs are mid-to-bottom. Pick surface feeders like guppies or endlers for the top, mid-water fish like rasboras for the middle, and maybe a small corydoras crew for the bottom. Everyone has a zone; nobody fights over the same space.
• Dense planting is mandatory. Java fern, anubias, and floating plants give ADFs resting spots near the surface and cover when they feel exposed. A bare tank stresses them. Stressed frogs stop eating. You already know where that ends.
• Keep the flow low. ADFs are not strong swimmers. A powerhead churning the water makes their life hard. A sponge filter or a canister with a spray bar pointed at the glass is ideal.
• Check the lid. Every time. They will find the gap.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should You Keep African Dwarf Frogs in a Community Tank?

Good Fit If:

• You’re willing to target feed every session, this is non-negotiable and takes about 90 seconds
• You keep or plan to keep slow nano fish that feed at the surface (guppies, chili rasboras, ember tetras)
• Your tank is heavily planted with dense mid-level and surface cover
• You have a stable heater that holds 72–78°F (22–26°C) without swinging
• You enjoy watching unique animal behavior, ADFs are genuinely interesting to observe

Avoid If:

• You keep fast, aggressive feeders, the frogs will quietly starve regardless of how peaceful the fish are
• You keep tiger barbs, serpae tetras, nippy species of any kind, they will injure the frogs
• You can’t commit to target feeding every session, not sometimes, every time
• You want a low-maintenance community tank where everyone feeds from the same place, that setup doesn’t work for ADFs
• You’re planning to add a betta male, the risk of aggression toward the frogs is high enough that I’d skip it

Mark’s Pick: Chili rasboras or ember tetras as tank mates, they’re small, slow relative to larger schooling fish, feed at the surface, and leave the bottom zone clear for the frogs. Pair with a small group of pygmy corydoras or kuhli loaches and you have a genuinely harmonious community. The key is that nobody competes with the frogs at feeding time.

Closing Thoughts

African Dwarf Frogs are one of my favorite animals to recommend to people who want something different in their community tank, but they come with a real caveat. They are fragile in ways that aren’t obvious. Not fragile like a discus that crashes if the pH shifts half a point, but fragile in that they simply can’t compete. Put them in the wrong tank and they’ll lose every single feeding without anyone being the villain. That’s the part that catches people off guard.

Get the tank mates right (slow, peaceful, surface-feeding nano fish) commit to target feeding, and keep the lid tight. Do those three things and an ADF community tank is genuinely one of the most interesting setups in the freshwater hobby. The frogs are bizarre in the best way. They deserve a setup built around their actual needs, not just a list of fish that “won’t hurt them.”

Have you kept African Dwarf Frogs in a community setup? What worked, and what didn’t? Drop it in the comments, I read every one. Until next time, fishkeepers.

Pea Puffer tank mates are a short list because pea puffers bite everything. They nip fins, hunt snails, and terrorize slow-moving fish. I’ve kept pea puffers in species-only setups and that’s always been the right call, the tanks where people force community companions are the ones I get the most distress calls about.

Most pea puffer tank mate lists are wish lists. The puffer decides who stays.

Understanding Pea Puffers

Pea puffers are renowned for their playful personalities and dainty size. Although these little fish may be small, they can still exhibit a great deal of aggression. Hence, it is essential to understand what type of environment will support them so that other aquatic life forms in the tank don’t come under attack from this active species!

Pea Puffers have a number of traits that will make them a poor fit in community fish tanks. They are territorial and very curious creatures that regularly get bored. This boredom is what makes them nip other fish, similar to how tiger barbs do the same. Not only do they nip, but they have powerful jaws that can hurt, maim, or kill other fish species.

Size and Space Requirements

A minimum tank size requirement of a 20 long tank must be met to each consider other tankmates other than pea puffers. Furthermore, a heavily planted habitat combined with plenty of places to hide is a must so other fish have places to hide from your pea puffer’s aggression outbursts.

The little pea puffers need room to be comfortable. For just one of them, the ideal is a 10-gallon tank. With six of these fish together, you’ll want no less than 20 gallons in order that they don’t become aggressive or hurt their aquarium companions. It’s essential to create plenty of space and hideaways so peace can reign under the water!

While 20 is the minimum, a 29 gallon tank would be recommended or even a 40 gallon breeder. The larger the tank, the higher the chances of success. Males will also be more aggressive than females. While you won’t be able to tell the differences between the two when they are young, over time the female will become larger and rounder than the male.

Water Conditions And Environment

Providing a secure and comfortable environment is essential for the health of pea puffers and their tank mates. It’s best to keep warm, soft water with consistent pH levels in an fish tank filled with live plants that offer plenty of hiding spots. However, these fish are very adaptable. Pea puffers can live in hard water.

The main thing with a tank setup with other fish is hiding places. Heavily planted tanks are ideal. You will want to utilize hardy plants such as Amazon Sword or Java Fern. Pea puffers will happily nip at plants out of boredom and less hardy plants will die or not thrive due to the beating taken from your puffers.

A Word Of Caution

When considering pea puffers for an aquarium, it is important to be aware of their potential aggression. The fish may act aggressively towards smaller species with slow or long-finned movement since they are prone to fin-nipping behavior and are territorial.

Even with a larger tank, all puffers have different personalities. In my experience running aquarium retail, the pea puffers that caused the fewest problems were the ones given a species-only setup from day one, not the ones where tank mates were tried and then removed after the damage was done. In this list, I have included a chance of success rating so you are aware of the risk. As a rule of thumb, here are a few general tips:

• Introduce the pea puffers last or rehome temporarily while introducing the new fish
• Observe the puffers in a breeding box in the tank to monitor interactions
• Keep your puffers well fed, a well-fed fish will be less aggressive (e.g. brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc)
• Always have a backup plan, and be prepared to remove the puffers right away if severe aggression occurs

The 10 Best Pea Puffer Tank Mates

Now on to our list. Here is in my mind, the top 10 options you can try to keep with Pea puffers. I have included the following stats for each species.

• Scientific Name
• Adult Size
• Water Temperature Range
• Minimum tank size
• Care Level
• Diet
• Origin
• Swimming Level
• Change Of Success

Let’s get started with our list!

Expert Take

After 25+ years in the hobby and managing aquarium stores, pea puffers are one of the fish I give the most direct advice about, because the damage from bad tank mate choices is fast and irreversible. Pea puffers are predators in a 1-inch body. I’ve watched pea puffers hunt fish twice their size, stalk shrimp across a tank, and nip at anything that moved too slowly. The question about tank mates isn’t which species can safely coexist, it’s whether you need tank mates at all. A species-only pea puffer tank in a well-planted nano is the setup I recommend every time. I’ve never once seen a pea puffer community tank work long-term when the puffers weren’t in the majority of the stocking, and even then, you’re managing it, not relaxing about it. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Other Pea Puffers	1 inch	10 gallons	7/10	High
Otocinclus Catfish	1.5 to 2 iches	20 gallons	7/10	High
Corydoras Catfish	2 to 3 inches,	10 gallons	7/10	High
Bristlenose Pleco	4 to 5 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Kuhli Loaches	4 – 5 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Zebra Danios	1 inch	10 gallons	9/10	High
White Cloud Minnow	1 inch	10 gallons	9/10	High
Amano Shrimp	2 inches	5 gallons	9/10	High
Molly Fish	4 inches	20 gallons	9/10	High
Neon Tetras	1.5 inches	10 gallons	7/10	High

1. Other Pea Puffers

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon travancoricus
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 72°. 82° F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet – Carnivore
• Origin – India
• Swimming Level – Top, middle, below
• Change Of Success – Guaranteed

The best tank mate is to just had more pea puffers! The ideal ratio for pea puffers is to have 3 females for every male, in order to reduce the chances of them displaying aggression. To ensure they cohabitate happily, a spacious and well-planted aquarium should be provided as it gives each puffer enough room and hiding places. Having at least three fish will give these critters companionship too!

2. Otocinclus Catfish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
• Adult Size: 1.5 to 2 iches
• Water Temperature: 74°F to 79°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet – Herbivore
• Origin – South America
• Swimming Level – Bottom to middle
• Change Of Success – High

Otocinclus catfish make terrific tankmates for pea puffers due to their peaceful nature and efficient algae-eating capabilities. These small fish help keep the aquarium environment tidy by consuming excess vegetation, making them a highly beneficial addition to any community of aquatic animals.

It is important that these fish have an abundance of plants and algae in order to survive while living alongside your pea puffer friends! Supplemental feeding is a must!

3. Corydoras Catfish

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches,
• Water Temperature: 72°F to 79°F (22 to 26°C)
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – South America
• Swimming Level – Bottom
• Change Of Success – High

Corydoras catfish provide a great addition to an aquarium with pea puffers due to their calm, placid nature. Their armored bodies help ensure they can live in harmony with the fish that make up this type of community tank with a lower risk of aggression occurring. In terms of maintaining cleanliness within the habitat, these bottom-feeders are invaluable as they consume bits and pieces left behind from feeding time for all living occupants. Their omnivorous nature makes them a great scavenger with the puffer’s messy nature.

4. Bristlenose Pleco

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus Cirrhosus
• Adult Size: 4 to 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73°F to 80°F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Herbivore
• Origin – South America
• Swimming Level – Bottom
• Change Of Success – High

The Bristlenose Plecos are peaceful, algae-eating fish that can coexist happily with the pea puffers. Their armored body provides them protection, while their algae consumption helps to keep a puffer tank clean from unwanted growth. Hence, these small and unique looking creatures make for an excellent choice when setting up a friendly environment between your pea puffers and other aquatic animals in one’s home aquarium.

5. Kuhli Loaches

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pangio Kuhlii
• Adult Size: 4 – 5 inches
• Water Temperature: 73 to 86° F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level – Bottom
• Change Of Success – High

Kuhli Loaches are not overly aggressive and spend most of their time at night. They is easily kept with pea puffers in an aquarium, as long as they have a soft sand substrate that allows them to burrow comfortably and places to hide. An environment like this allows both species to thrive side by side, giving the tank owner plenty of interesting activity to observe underwater.

Hard Rule: Never add slow-moving fish, long-finned fish, or shrimp to a pea puffer tank. They will be hunted regardless of whether the puffer appears calm. It’s not a phase, it’s the species’ behavioral baseline.

6. Zebra Danios

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Danio rerio
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 72 to 81° F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – Eastern India
• Swimming Level – All
• Change Of Success – Medium

Zebra Danios, a type of schooling fish known as being peaceful fish and swift in the water. They are fast enough to avoid the aggression of your pea puffer as long as the tank is large enough for them to maneuver.

Given they are dither fish, their nature will help bring out your pea puffers out in the open more. There still is a chance these fish may be victims of nipping or being eaten (especially long finned types), but of all non bottom feeding fish, these danios have the best chance of success.

7. White Cloud Minnow

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Adult Size: 1 inch
• Water Temperature: 57°F to 72°F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – China
• Swimming Level – Mid to Top
• Change Of Success – Medium

White Cloud Minnows are a great choice for an aquarium due to their peaceful temperament and fast speed. Like the Zebra danio, they are fast enough to avoid the aggression of your puffer. They do best in groups when it comes to swimming, creating even more harmony within community tanks as they scavenge. These hardy fish truly bring life into your tank! As another dither fish, they will encourage your dwarf pufferfish to be more active fish.

They are still at risk of being nipped or eaten; these colorful fish species have a lower chance than others.

8. Amano Shrimp

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Caridina multidetata
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 65°F to 78°F
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – Japan
• Swimming Level – All
• Change Of Success – Low

Amano Shrimp can make good tank mate for pea puffers. These peaceful invertebrates are efficient algae eaters, consuming both the excess food in the tank as well as keeping it clean from an algae bloom. Due to their docile nature, they can live happily with a puffer without much trouble at all. They require minimal care while occupying various sized tanks just fine!

However, if not placed in a heavily planted tank there’s a good chance your Amano will become a snack for the pea puffer. A larger tank and lots of plants are essential. Do not attempt if you have a mostly open aquascape setup!

9. Molly Fish

Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops, P. Latipinna, P. Velifera, etc.
• Adult Size: 4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72 ° to 82 °F
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – North and South America
• Swimming Level – Middle
• Change Of Success – Low

Molly Fish are potentially great companions for pea puffers in the same community tank. However, a large tank is needed to pull it off. While the dwarf puffer won’t eat the Mollies, it is possible for them to get nipped. A tank of at least 29 gallons is a must to attempt, with your highest success at a 40 gallon tank.

This is the only livebearer that makes our list. All other livebearers are too small and is mortally wounded or eaten.

10. Neon Tetras

Ease: 7/10. Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70 ° to 79 °F
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet – Omnivore
• Origin – South America
• Swimming Level – Top to Middle
• Change Of Success – Low

Neon Tetras are a type of aquarium fish known for their stunning colors and peaceful nature. While they are fast enough to avoid the pea puffer, they need a long enough tank and enough planted life to cohabitate with them safely.

They also need to be housed in large numbers. Knowing this, I would not attempt housing them with a dwarf puffer in anything less than 29 gallons. You will have the most success in a 40 gallon breeder.

Bad Choices

When it comes to tank mates for pea puffers, some fish species are not recommended due to their size, temperament, or vulnerability. The following fish should be completely avoided in order to keep the inhabitants safe and happy. It’s important that these factors are taken into consideration before adding any other types of creatures into your pea puffer aquarium!

After 25+ years in the hobby and time in retail, I can tell you that most of the “bad choice” calls I’ve seen came from keepers insisting a certain fish would be fine, and every single time with guppies, it wasn’t.

1. Guppy Fish

Guppy Fish, with their graceful fins and delicate swimming style, can make them attractive targets for pea puffers. These fish are also known to reproduce quickly, which could make the fry snacks for the puffer. However, guppies are too small to be housed with a pea puffer. While they are fast and can avoid the puffer, a nip could result in a moral wound given their size or they is eaten all together.

2. Rasboras

It’s best to steer clear of combining rasboras and pea puffers in the same tank. These small fish can become easy targets of aggression, inducing stress for both types of species. To create a more balanced habitat, it is advisable not to mix them together as this is detrimental for the rasboras. Although these delicate little creatures are peaceful by nature, they’re often too vulnerable when exposed to attacks that come with pairing them up with predatory fish like pea puffers.

As a side note, the Chilil Rasbora is often mentioned in blogs. I will tell you right now if your pea puffer manages to nip one of them they will be killed nearly instantly! Don’t risk it. Zebra Danios fare a much better chance.

3. Angelfish

Angelfish and pea puffers are a combo that will end up as a bloodbath. The pufferfish will enjoy nipping at the fins of the Angelfish, while the Angelfish is big enough to stand up on its own and fight back. It is even more disastrous if either fish is breeding. For both animals’ welfare, it’s recommended they remain separate inhabitants of different tanks/aquariums.

4. Betta Fish

Housing a betta fish and pea puffers together is not advisable since both are territorial in nature. However, this is a battle the pea puffer will win as their beaks are powerful enough to heavily damage the Betta. Furthermore, fancy finned varieties will have zero chance against the pufferfish. Fights will easily result in an infection for the Betta and possibly death from stress. These are both species completely incompatible with each other and should not be housed together.

Frequently Asked Questions

Mark’s Pick: If tank mates are mandatory, the only species I’ve seen consistently work long-term are fast-moving surface fish, specifically, small danios. They’re quick, have short fins, and stay near the surface while puffers typically work the bottom and mid-levels.

Who Is This Setup Right For?

I’ve kept pea puffers myself and the honest answer is that the best pea puffer keeper is someone who genuinely doesn’t need community fish. The puffer is the personality. The tank is built around it.

Good Fit If:

• You want a species-only pea puffer setup in a planted nano (10–20 gallons)
• You’re adding only very fast surface fish that stay out of the puffer’s zone
• You understand that tank mate attempts will require monitoring and likely removal
• You want an interesting behavioral fish that doesn’t need company to thrive

Avoid If:

• You want a peaceful community tank, pea puffers are not community fish, period
• You keep shrimp, snails, or slow-moving bottom dwellers, they will be eaten or harassed
• You have bettas, guppies, or any long-finned fish in the same setup
• You aren’t prepared to remove tank mates if problems arise, and they will

Closing Thoughts

To conclude, it is possible for pea puffers to live happily with other tank mates if their special needs and characters are taken into consideration. When looking at space requirements, hiding places, and water quality. Which should be kept up to a high standard – as well as being aware of the puffer’s size and behavior, one can establish an enchanting underwater environment that everyone in the aquarium will thrive in! So don’t hesitate anymore. Bring home some amazing cohabitants for your precious little pea puffers today!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.