Tag: Fish Profiles

  • Shubunkin Goldfish: The Complete Care Guide to the Pond Keeper’s Favorite

    Shubunkin Goldfish: The Complete Care Guide to the Pond Keeper’s Favorite

    The Shubunkin Goldfish: The is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

    A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

    Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Table of Contents

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Shubunkin Goldfish

    The biggest mistake I see with shubunkin goldfishs is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

    The Reality of Keeping Shubunkin Goldfish: The

    Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

    Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

    They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

    Expert Take

    The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

    A Brief Overview Of The Shubunkin

    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    Common Name (Species)Shubunkin Goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginJapan
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive, social
    LifespanUp to 30 years
    TempermentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size75 Gallons
    Temperature Range65 – 72 Degrees F
    KH150
    pH Range6.0. 8.0
    Filtration/Flow RateModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, Easy to breed
    CompatibilityPeace commuity species
    Ok, For Planted Tanks?With Research

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NameShubunkin Goldfish
    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    OrderCypriniformes
    FamilyCyprinidae
    GenusCarassius
    SpeciesC. Auratus

    Origins and Habitat

    Shubunkin Goldfish are also known as Calico Goldfish, meaning multicolored. As a type of Goldfish (Carassius auratus), they’re descendants from the wild carp living in Asia today and were first bred in Japan. The Shubunkin earns its name from a town in Japan called Shubuta where they were first bred. These fish were first brought into the West in 1882 by James Meehan, who was a curator at the London Zoo.

    As for habitat, Shubunkins are a member of the Cyprinidae family, which means they like to live in slow rivers, lakes, ditches, or ponds. In Asia, fish kept in ponds have a habitat moderately decorated with plastic plants, driftwood, and rocks.

    What Does They Look Like?

    Features of Shubunkin Goldfish

    The Shubunkin is similar to the Common Goldfish and the Comet Goldfish in appearance and is crossbred from these two, as well as the Calico Telescope Eye Goldfish. They have nacreous scales which are pearly in appearance and look like a mix between transparent and metallic scales.

    The Calico Goldfish has overlapping patches of white, gray, red, black, and blue colors that is seen on their long, flowing tail fins. The most valued color of a Shubukin is blue, and this is also the rarest color. These fish are heavily spotted as well.

    , people divide Shubunkins into three different types:

    London

    The London Shubunkin goldfish has a slender body and shorter tails that are more rounded, similar to the Common Goldfish.

    American

    The American Shubunkin is also known as the Japanese Shubunkin. An American Shubunkin has longer fins and a sharper fork tail, and looks more like Comet Goldfish than the other types.

    Bristol

    The Bristol Shubunkin is quite rare and has a B-shaped tail that stands out. Also, the Bristol Shubunkin be longer and broader than other types.

    Shubunkin Goldfish Vs. Koi

    Below is a good reference video from J Lo on the difference between Shubunkin Goldfish and Koi. As you can see, the Shubunkin compliments as Koi with it’s varied color and fin shapes. They look amazing together in a pond! In some Koi keeping circles, the Shubunkin is often label a “poor man’s Koi”. The way I see it, they remind me of Butterfly Koi and allow you to keep the purity of the Koi line if you do not want to stick to Traditional Koi.

    How Big Are They?

    One common feature among the Goldfish freshwater species is that they grow based on their surroundings., Shubunkin Goldfish reach a size between 6. 12 inches, but if you keep them in a small space, they’ll be smaller. 

    These are excellent pond fish as well, since they can grow up to 14. 18 inches if they have enough room, and there have even been reports of them reaching lengths beyond 18 inches.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Depending on their environment, Shubunkin Goldfish are hardy fish and have a lifespan of 10. 15 years with proper care.

    Shubunkins that are kept in ponds live even longer since they have lots of space to explore and live a happy life. Some even have a lifespan of up to 30 years.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    These fish are super social and like to hang out in groups. They’ll likely spend their days exploring their aquarium or pond, meaning that they’re very active. Like most Goldfish species, they’re fast swimmers and do well paired with other fast-swimming fish.

    They also like to eat whatever they can get their hands (or mouths) on, and they often scavenge for food at the bottom of the tank. Therefore, the only type of aggression you might encounter with Shubunkins is that they’re quick to steal food.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    While they can live alone, the Shubunkin thrives in tanks with other fish, and they make a good addition to community tanks. Some species suit them better than others, however.

    Good Tank Mates

    These quick swimmers pair well with other fast-moving fish that thrive in cooler waters as the Shubunkin does. They do well with other species of Goldfish as well as many other species. Here are some suggestions for fish to pair with your Shubunkin Goldfish:

    Fish Species to Avoid (Bad Tank Mates)

    Since Shubunkin Goldfish will steal as much food as they can manage, it’s best not to pair them with slow-moving and shy species, as they might have a hard time getting enough nutrition.

    For the more experienced fish owner, you can pair your Shubunkin with slower swimmers as well. Just make sure to watch and feed your fish at different times, starting with the fast ones and then moving onto the slower ones.

    Shubunkin Goldfish don’t pair well with aggressive fish such as Tiger Barbs or Cichlids since they don’t like fighting. They also do not pair well with Fancy Goldfish because they are very fast compared to them. Fancy goldfish will struggle to eat enough with an athletic Shubunkin in the tank or pond.

    Finally, some tropical fish species might not be the best mates for Shubunkin, since they prefer cooler waters.

    What Do They Eat?

    Shubunkins are omnivores and eat almost anything you drop into the water. But for them to get all the nutrition they need, it’s best to feed them high-quality dried food such as flakes and pellets.

    Another great thing is that these fish are scavengers and will eat up whatever they can find at the bottom of the tank, such as plant material and detritus. Just they might uproot live plants while they’re at it.

    What About Live Foods?

    Like all types of Goldfish, Shubunkin feed on insects and small crustaceans. Some live or frozen foods to feed them occasionally include Daphnia, blood worms, tubifex worms, krill, and brine shrimp.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    You should feed your Goldfish twice a day and give them as much as they can eat for two minutes each time. For the everyday staple meal, pellets or flakes are your best choices. Occasionally, they should also get a treat in the form of live or frozen food.

    Once or twice a week, you can also give them some fresh vegetables from your kitchen, such as spinach, lettuce, or cucumber, but peel and blanch them first.

    Tank Requirements

    Shubunkin Tank Requirements

    While the Goldfish Shubunkin is rather easy to take care of, you need to consider the type of tank it’s going to live in as well as how to decorate it.

    Tank Size

    There is lots of misleading information out there in regards to keeping a Goldfish. While your Shubunkin Goldfish will stay alive in a tank that’s 15. 20 gallons, it’s too small for them to live a healthy life. Instead, you should invest in an aquarium that’s with a minimum tank size of 75 gallons to give them room to swim and search for food.

    As your fish will grow depending on how much space it has to move around in, the bigger the tank, the better. Shubunkins live the happiest in wide-open spaces where they can roam around and are great to keep as pond fish.

    If you add more fish to your aquarium, remember to increase the tank size by 10. 15 gallons per new member. A 75-gallon tank should only keep one Shubunkin Goldfish.

    Tank or Pond Setup

    Since this Goldfish type lives in slow-moving rivers or lakes, you want to make sure that your tank has low to moderate water movement. Speaking, a water filtration system provides enough movement in the tank. You can invest in some air stones if you wish to help keep the oxygen at reasonable levels.

    Shubunkins aren’t picky, and most substrate works with this fish. The best choice is medium-sized gravel since they’ll be able to sift through this material and look for food. You can also opt for a bare bottom pond, a favorite setup for Koi Pond setups and for ease of cleaning.

    You can also invest in some underwater live plants for a more natural-looking habitat. This fish is a quick eater, so it’s likely to unroot almost anything you plant. Your best bet here is fast-growing plants such as Hornwort, Java Fern, and Anacharis.

    In terms of other decorations, Shubunkins aren’t picky and won’t mind plastic or silicone plants. The most important thing for them is to have a good amount of swimming space, so you can use some driftwood or rocks in your tank or pond but keep it minimal.

    Finally, you need to provide a sufficient amount of light. This will help your Shubunkin Goldfish maintain its natural sleeping pattern. There are many tanks on the market that have built-in LED lights with different settings for day and night that is a good investment.

    Water Quality

    Filtration

    The Shubunkin is a messy fish and has a high waste load, which means that you need a good filtration system in your pond or tank. Your best bet is a filter with biological media. Without a filter, nitrate and ammonia levels in the water might reach unhealthy levels. However, also remember make that water change frequent and clean the tank or pond.

    When picking a filter, look for one that can clean all the water in your tank or pond. If it lacks in this aspect, you’ll end up with unfiltered water. I recommend a high quality power filter or opt for a canister filter.

    Water Parameters

    One good thing with the Goldfish species is that it tolerates changes in water conditions much better than more sensitive tropical fish, for example. They can even survive in temperatures a few degrees over freezing, which is why they make such great pond fish. However, you should invest in a water heater if you plan on keeping your Shubunkins in an outdoor pond during the winter.

    Here are the ideal water parameters for Shubunkins:

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Shubunkin Goldfish in Aquarium

    (Source)

    Since Goldfish are messy types of fish, you need to clean out their tank more frequently than many other species. Keeping your aquarium clean is the most efficient way to prevent your Shubunkin from getting sick or developing any fish diseases.

    Every one to two weeks, you should clean your aquarium. First, wipe off the outside of the tank with an ammonia-free cleaner and a cloth, then shake the plants inside the aquarium to get rid of debris. Also, scrape the inside of the glass to remove algae, and then take a break for 15 minutes. Finally, siphon the substrate to further remove debris and then perform a 25 percent water change.

    Test Water Conditions

    You should check the pH level, hardness, and water temperature frequently, especially when setting up your tank and after changing the water. Make sure that the levels are within the spectrums stated in the section above.

    Other things you need to test are the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. For Shubunkin Goldfish, the levels should be the following:

    • Ammonia: 0 ppm.
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm.
    • Nitrate: <40 ppm.

    In order to test the water conditions, invest in an aquarium water test kit. A good rule is to test the water conditions on a monthly basis. At the same time, make sure you also change the filter media.

    How To Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Before your Shubunkin moves into its new home, you need to set up the tank. Make sure you have a clean aquarium with the proper water conditions and temperature for your fish to start with, and it’ll be easier to tweak them later.

    How To Set Up a Fish Tank

    Follow these seven steps to set up the fish tank for your Shubunkin Goldfish.

    1. Clean the Tank

    First of all, wipe off any dust with a damp cloth, never use any household chemicals or old cleaning equipment to clean the inside of your tank. If you have an old aquarium that needs some extra cleaning, you can use vinegar to dissolve dirt.

    2. Position the Tank

    Now it’s time to position your tank. It’s best to put it into place before filling it with water since it’ll get heavier. Make sure that it’s out of direct sunlight and placed on a stable stand. It should also be level.

    3. Fill Tank With Substrate and Water

    After this, it’s time to fill the tank with the substrate. For the Shubunkin, use medium-size gravel and rinse it with cold water before you fill the aquarium.

    Follow a ratio of 1 pound of substrate per gallon of water for a 1-inch thick bed, or 2 pounds of substrate per gallon of water for one that’s 2 inches thick. For a 75-gallon minimum tank size, this means 75. 150 pounds of substrate. For 125 gallons, you’ll need 150. 300 pounds.

    When the gravel is inside the tank, fill it with water. Shubunkin Goldfish are freshwater fish, so you’ll need to use fresh water. A tip to prevent the running water from spreading out the gravel is to place a bowl or saucer at the bottom of the tank and pour water onto it. After filling the aquarium, add dechlorinator to the water, following the instructions on the bottle.

    4. Install the Filter

    You can choose to use an external or internal filter, but we recommend an external one since it filters water more efficiently and has more space for media. The best choice for Shubunkins is to use a filter with biological media.

    Set up depends on the brand, so look at the instructions. You place it within the sand below the tank. Before you plug it in, fill it with water to start the filtering process. When you install it, make sure that the inlet and outlet tubes are straight so that water flows through them easily.

    5. Decorate It

    When you’re done with the basic setup, it’s time to decorate the tank. Remember that Shubunkins like to have lots of space to swim but that some plants and other items are okay to add. Rinse every item before you place it into the tank to prevent dirty water.

    Most plants are fine being buried in the gravel, but some species such as Java Fern need to be attached to some driftwood first and then placed into the aquarium.

    6. Cycle the Tank

    Before adding any fish, you need to cycle the water in the tank to build up bacteria in your biofilter that can convert ammonia into nitrites and then nitrites into nitrates. This is to prevent toxins from building up in the water.

    Simply add some ammonia into the tank (I recommend using Dr. Tim’s Ammonia), following the instructions on the bottle. You need to check the levels of these substances frequently. When they reach 0 ppm, your tank is fully cycled. This might take a few weeks, so prepare your aquarium well in advance. For bacteria in a bottle, check out Fritz Turbo start.

    My Pick For Freshwater Bacteria
    Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater
    Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater

    Fritz Turbo Start is known in the industry as the fastest acting nitrifying bacteria you can purchase. This 700 version is specialized for freshwater tank and has my highest recommendation

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    7. Add Your Fish

    Now your Shubunkin Goldfish is ready to move in. Since fish is sensitive to changes in water conditions, you want to acclimatize your Goldfish by slowly adding half a cup of water from the tank into its bag and wait for 5 minutes between adding another half a cup.

    When you’ve acclimatized your Shubunkin, use a net to transfer it to the tank. Discard the remaining water in the sink and observe your new friend for the next 24 hours to make sure it eats and settles in well.

    If you opt to quarantine your fish (which I recommend), consider quarantine for 30 days in a separate tank.

    Health and Disease

    While this is a hardy fish, that doesn’t mean that it’s immune to freshwater fish diseases. So, let’s talk about how you recognize a healthy as well as an unhealthy Shubunkin.

    Signs of Good Health

    A healthy Shubunkin swims constantly and eats regularly. It looks shiny, its colors are vibrant, and the scales are intact and not damaged. They also get along well with their tank mates and frequently explore the tank, digging and scavenging for food.

    Signs of Ill Health

    Some signs to be wary of include:

    • White spots on its scales.
    • Swimming sideways or just floating around without swimming actively.
    • Only staying close to the surface or the bottom of the tank.
    • Staying in one corner.
    • Not eating.
    • Constipation.
    • Injured scales.
    • Rubbing its scales against tank walls and plants.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Ich is one of the most common diseases for freshwater fish. This is a parasite that appears as white spots on fish scales, and if left untreated, the white wounds can lead to bacterial infections and kill the fish. If you notice your Shubukin rubbing itself against surfaces and developing white spots, take it to a vet immediately. There are several products you can add to your tank to treat Ich.

    Swim bladder disease is another issue Shubunkin Goldfish can suffer from. Signs include swimming sideways, staying close to the surface or the bottom of the tank, or swimming in strange patterns. A home remedy against swim bladder disease is to feed your fish blanched peas, but your best bet is to seek help from a professional.

    Other diseases that can affect this Goldfish type include fin rot and skin flukes that other parasites or fungus cause. If your Shubunkin shows signs of ill health, seek advice from a vet.

    Breeding

    Shubunkin spawns during the spring and to start this process, move the fish into a separate breeding tank and drop the temperature to 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Then warm the water in the breeding tank by 2. 3 degrees F every day until the temperature reaches 72 degrees F.

    You’ll see the males’ colors begin to intensify, and they’ll start chasing the females. After a few days, they’ll push the females into the plants, where they’ll lay up to 10,000 eggs. After a few hours, spawning is done, and you need to remove the adult fish from the tank, or they’ll eat the eggs.

    After 4. 7 days, the eggs will hatch. Proceed to feed the baby fish with fry food until they reach 1-inch, and then put them into the adult tank.

    Are Your They Male or Female?

    You probably won’t be able to tell males and females apart until they reach maturity. During the breeding seasons, males will develop breeding tubercles on their gills and heads, which will look like white spines. The females will get rounder bellies when eggs develop.

    Availability

    You’ll find Shubunkin Goldfish available to buy at almost any pet store, fish supply shop, and even online. Not everyone has access to a quality local fish store. For those who do not have a good local fish store, check out my best places to buy fish online post. To save you time, for Shubunkins, I would recommend NextDayKoi for purchasing the quality quality Shubunkins.

    My Pick For Shubunkins!
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    Next Day Koi offers the finest Koi and Pond Goldfish from quality breeders. A great place to shop for Shubunkins!

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    What You Need To Buy

    • Fish tank
    • Medium-sized gravel
    • Filtering system with biological media
    • Dried fish food flakes
    • Fast-growing plants
    • De-chlorinator
    • Ammonia and Bacteria
    • Aquarium water test kit

    Is the Shubunkin Goldfish Right for You?

    Before you add a shubunkin goldfish to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Shubunkin Goldfishs need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the shubunkin goldfish is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Shubunkin Goldfish Compares to Similar Species

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the shubunkin goldfish stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The shubunkin goldfish occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the shubunkin goldfish or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the shubunkin goldfish needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Shubunkin Goldfish is an active, beautiful, and hardy species that socializes well with other freshwater fish and is kept in outdoor ponds or indoor tanks. They’ll make a great addition to your aquarium as long as you give it enough space to swim around and maintain healthy water conditions in the tank.

  • Marine Velvet – Symptoms, Treatment & Prevention Guide

    Marine Velvet – Symptoms, Treatment & Prevention Guide

    Marine velvet is the disease I fear most in a saltwater system. more than ich, more than bacterial infections. I’ve seen it kill entire tanks within 48 hours when it goes undetected, and because the early symptoms are so easy to miss, it often does. Running a 125-gallon reef for years, I’ve learned to spot the signs early and act immediately. If you keep saltwater fish, this is the one guide you can’t afford to skip.

    Marine velvet is one of the most deadly diseases in the saltwater hobby. it kills faster than ich and is often misidentified until it’s too late. I’ve seen it wipe out entire tanks, and I’ve helped hobbyists navigate outbreaks after they reached out through my YouTube channel. The key is recognizing the early signs and acting immediately, because once fish are in late-stage velvet, your window to save them is very narrow. This guide covers exactly how to identify marine velvet, differentiate it from ich, and the treatment protocols that give your fish the best chance of survival.

    What You Need To Know (The Facts)

    NameAmyloodinium ocellatum
    Common TreatmentsChloroquine Phosphate or Copper
    Short-Term TreatmentAcriflavine or Formalin bath
    CausesTransferred from infected fish, corals, or water
    Fallow Period6 weeks
    Common SymptomsNumerous white dots on the body, fins, flashing, swimming to flow of wavemakers, erratic swimming behavior

    What is Marine Velvet? (Amyloodinium ocellatum)

    Marine Velvet Disease, scientifically known as Amyloodinium ocellatum is a dinoflagellate (not the same brown stuff mentioned in my other post). It is well known for killing prized saltwater fish in less than 24 hours, and it spreads the most during the warmest months of the year in the aquarium trade. If you are well versed in the hobby, you will often hear of increased cases of this disease during the summer. It makes summer one of the riskiest times to purchase fish locally or online.

    Because it is a dinoflagellate, it has unique features compared to other diseases in our hobby. It is often mistaken as ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), and because of this, you should learn the differences between the two.

    Marine Velvet vs Ich – The 4 Key Differences

    It’s very easy to confuse these two diseases. I’ve heard many folks say, “ich wiped my tank.” However, their stories, of how quickly everything happened, made me suspect it was actually Velvet. Let’s go into the four main differences so you know what you are tackling. They are:

    1. The number of spots
    2. Type of free swimmers
    3. Life cycle
    4. Time of infection

    1. The Number of Spots

    Your first indicator is usually the number of spots. Ich’s white spots are spread out and easy to count. With Velvet, the spots are so numerous it’s difficult to count them all. It’s almost as if the fish was dusted with white power (source). You can see an example of both diseases below. Note how the purple tang has spots spread out while the Achilles tang has spots all over its body, including the eyes.

    Velvet in Marine Fish
    Marine Velvet
    Saltwater Ich
    Ich

    2. Type Of Free Swimmers

    Because Marine Velvet disease is a dinoflagellate, the free swimmers are called velvet dinospores, while ich’s are called theronts. While this is a technical term, one thing to know is that dinoflagellates feed off sunlight which makes it susceptible to blackouts, UV, and Ozone – though once you have an outbreak you will need to take more extreme measures to fight it off. All of these will control the spread, but will not cure an already infected fish!

    3. Life Cycle

    Velvet averages a 4-day life cycle and there are more attacking free swimmers than ich. This is why they can overwhelm and kill fish so fast. Ich’s life cycle can be as long as 2 weeks.

    4. Time Of Infection

    Because Velvet is a dino, it remains infective for up to 15 days. This is because as dinos, they can feed off sunlight. Ich is only infectious for up to 48 hours. The fact that it remains infective longer and attacks in larger numbers and longer is what makes this disease far deadlier than ich.

    Life Cycle

    As I mentioned before, the life cycle is only 4 days and starts when a Velvet dinospore attaches to a fish’s skin. The attached velvet dinospores are then called trophonts. This trophont will feed on your fish for several days before detaching. Sometimes, the trophonts are so numerous and overwhelming that it will kill the fish before it shows any symptoms.

    Once the trophont detaches, it is called a tomont. These tomonts divide until they burst. When they burst, they become new velvet dinospores. These dinospores then attach to a new host, starting the lifecycle all over again.

    Let’s illustrate this lifecycle with an image. The image below is from Dr. Fish himself, Humblefish. He is the go-to for all marine fish diseases in our hobby. Check out his site for further info on all other saltwater ailments and treatments.

    Marine Velvet Life Cycle

    Treatment (How To Cure)

    Marine Velvet disease needs to be treated ASAP. You need to treat it in a quarantine tank as all effective medications against it are not suitable to be used in reef tanks. There are several steps you will need to take:

    • Get the proper medication
    • Get a test kit
    • Set up a quarantine tank
    • Perform short-term relief procedures
    • Perform treatment procedures

    1. Get The Proper Medication

    Step number 1 here. The preferred treatment option for Velvet is chloroquine phosphate. Unfortunately, due to the COVID-19 pandemic and its mass usage for treating malaria1 , it is getting difficult to find. Even with a vet, most are now reluctant to prescribe it to a hobbyist. Chloroquine phosphate is highly effective and can be used with no ramp-up time. However, given its lack of availability, it will not be your primary treatment option.

    Copper is your new go-to treatment option. We will need to do some additional steps to make it work against Velvet. There are two types of copper: ionic and chelated. Ionic copper is what you will find in most fish stores due to the availability of SeaChem Cupramine. It has a shorter range of therapeutic levels (0.4 – 0.5 mg/L) and degrades fast. It’s not my preferred choice.

    Chelated copper is stable and has a larger range of therapeutic levels. Fish are more tolerant to it than ionic copper, and it is generally more effective against diseases than ionic copper. My preferred choice for chelated copper is Copper Power by Endich. Make sure you get the blue version, as there is a green version that is exclusive to freshwater Velvet. The effective range for chelated copper is 1.5 to 2.0 PPM. If you want research-backed info of copper medications – see this write-up from the University of Florida (UF is also the source of my featured image).

    Unfortunately, most stores will not have Copper Power in stock. Amazon Prime is your best bet for fast delivery. If you are researching this article and do not have a fish that is sick, I would purchase some now. It has a long shelf life.

    2. Get A Test Kit

    If you manage to get your hands on chloroquine phosphate, you are in luck. You do not have to use a test kit for CP because there is none available to the hobbyist. Only lab-grade equipment can test for CP and that is way out of the price range of most people, and also not available to purchase unless you are a lab tech.

    If you get copper, you will need a test kit. There are many factors with copper that call for a test kit. For one, copper gets absorbed by lots of things in your aquarium – your filter, the silicone in your aquarium, and any decorations. This is why hospital tanks are set up with PVC piping and simple power filters or sponge filters.

    Of all copper test kits available, the best out there is the Hanna Checker

    3. Set Up A Quarantine Tank

    A proper quarantine (AKA hospital tank) is a must. You will need to remove all fish from your display tank as the disease will need to be starved out of your display. More on this later when I explain the fallow period. Depending on the number and size of fish, most people will be working with a 10, 20L, or 55-gallon tank when treating for Marine Velvet disease. I prefer the 20L gallon since it is a nice combo of size, space, and cost-effectiveness. A 55-gallon tank is used for large or multiple fish. Ammonia levels should be monitored with a SeaChem Ammonia Alert Badge.

    For the full setup you will need:

    I walk you through the part selection below in my video. I bookmarked it to the section where I go through each piece of equipment.

    The main concern with a hospital tank is not having a bacteria culture to jumpstart it. If you have media in your display tank, move it over to the hospital tank to seed the tank. I would also recommend using Bio-Spera. This is my preferred choice for bacteria in a bottle for hospital tanks because you can find it everywhere – even in chain pet stores.

    4. Perform Short-Term Relief Procedures

    Because most of you will need to use copper to treat Marine Velvet disease, you will need to perform short-term relief procedures to give your fish relief from the disease. To do so, we will want to use an Acriflavine or Formalin bath. Since Formalin is a controversial medication and even banned in some states, Acriflavine is going to be our best choice.

    There is actually one product in our hobby that contains both Acrifalvine and Formalin, That product would be Ruby Reef Rally. This is the preferred solution for providing relief to our fish. Here are the steps:

    • Prepare a 2.5 gallon or 5 gallon bucket depending on your fish size with a heater and air pump
    • Put your display tank water into the bucket
    • Add the recommended dosage of Ruby Reef Rally to the bucket and mix fully
    • Place fish into the bucket and allow 90 minutes to observe for signs of stress
    • Remove fish and place it into your hospital tank – start the next relief procedures

    Ruby Reef Rally is my go to for dips. I use it for disease relief and also before I introduce any fish into my quarantine tanks. It is available at most local fish stores.

    If you are unable to procure Rally, you can do a 5-minute freshwater dip. Walking through a freshwater dip can be a separate article in itself. Here is a video from Meredith Presley to get you going. She does this for gill flukes, but a freshwater dip is an effective short-term option for Marine Velvet disease.

    5. Perform Treatment Procedures

    It’s time to attack this disease full-on. Since there are two ways to tackle this beast, I’ll walk you through both.

    Treating With Chloroquine Phosphate

    If you are fortunate to get this wonder drug, here is how you eradicate Velvet with it:

    • The typical dosage is 40mg per gallon
    • Use a digital scale when measuring your dosage
    • Use your hospital tank water in a cup to pre-dissolve the solution
    • For Velvet – you will need to maintain 40 mg per gallon for a minimum 14 days to treat – 30 days is preferred
    • If a water change is done, you must replace the water with medicated water using the same 40mg per gallon dosage
    • To top off water, you will not need to add medication

    I provided my video again, this time at the 7:00 mark where I walk you through how I mix CP in my quarantine tanks. You can see how I use the digital scale to measure, how I pre-dissolve, and how I add it to the aquarium.

    Treating With Copper

    Copper is a bit tricky because we have to work with the ramp up time. Most fish cannot tolerate an instant ramp up to therapeutic ranges. This is why we need to perform those short term procedures I explained previously to buy us time. We will need to perform a 24-hour ramp up. Here are the steps to getting us to effective levels:

    • Start off by raising copper levels to 1.0 ppm – verify with your Hanna Checker
    • Over the next 24 hours – raise your levels to 1.5 ppm. Do this every 8 hours, raising 0.125 PPM each time
    • After you raise it to 1.5 ppm – bring it to 2.0 ppm over the next 24 hours. Do this every 8 hours, raising 0.125 PPM each time
    • Treat for 30 days keeping levels above 1.50 ppm. If you drop below 1.50 at any time, your countdown to 30 days starts over!

    The Fallow Period – How to Eradicate The Disease In Your Display Tank

    Treating the disease in the hospital tank and saving your fish is the first battle we fight. Completely eradicating Velvet from your display is how to get a total victory. To do this, we must understand the fallow period needed to wipe it out. I also need to explain what fallow means.

    Fallow means no fish in your display. Velvet needs the fish as a host, without the fish, the disease starves out and can’t reproduce. Any coral inverts, and clean-up crew you have in your display can stay in your tank. This can be really discouraging for a reefer to have a fishless tank. There have been times that I have recommended to a hobbyist to impulse buy corals when at the beginning of the fallow period. Just buy a bunch now.

    Why would I say that? Because after you place all those corals you always wanted, you can begin your fallow period. It’s something you can look forward to. When your fish return they will be treated to new corals and structures to explore in a disease-free tank! The fallow period is also a long time.

    How long is it? The fallow period needed to completely wipe out Velvet from a display tank is 76 days. Yes, I know that is a long time. Now you see why I’m suggesting you go buy those corals you always wanted now where there is no risk to spread disease to your fish!

    During this time, you must make sure you do not cross-contaminate your tanks. Keep your hospital tank 10 feet away from your display tank and use separate nets, buckets, and equipment. Make sure you wash your hands before switching tanks with a reef-safe cleaner like dawn dish soap.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    I’m going to add some FAQS here that I get from readers and also to help with visibility online so people can find this post. If you have any questions, I encourage you to leave a comment below. I will add to this FAQ over time.

    Can Fish Survive This?

    Yes, fish can survive Marine Velvet disease. They will need treatment to survive, however. Surviving fish have been known to develop an immunity to the disease, but can still be carriers. This is why we must treat the disease and completely eradicate it from your display tank.

    How Do You Get Rid Of It?

    There are two medications that are effective in getting rid of Marine Velvet disease. The most available is chelated copper using a product like Copper Power. The other medication is chloroquine phosphate, which is more effective but difficult to obtain. Both need to be treated in a hospital tank, and a fallow period must be done in the display tank to remove it completely.

    How Do You Treat It?

    You need to treat Velvet with either chelated copper or chloroquine phosphate in a hospital tank, then have a 76-day fallow period in your display tank to completely remove it from the system.

    How Long Can They Live Without A Host?

    Marine Velvet can live without a host fish for up to 72 days per a Texas A&M study. This is why I recommend a 76-day fallow period. This builds a buffer so you can ensure complete eradication

    How Long Can A Fish Live With This?

    It depends on the fish, but generally most fish cannot live with Velvet longer than 1-2 days. Some will die before they have any visible symptoms! This is why it’s critical for you to begin treatment as soon as possible. It is not a disease to take lightly!

    The most resistant fish in our hobby are those with a thick slime coat. These would be fish like clownfish, mandarins, wrasses, and rabbitfish. Nevertheless, Velvet is capable of wiping out every fish in your aquarium!

    References

    Conclusion

    I hope this guide got you all the information you need to combat this tank killer. Marine Velvet disease shouldn’t be taken lightly. You should run to your local fish store to get supplies now if you are dealing with it. If you are not dealing with it, work on building up your medicine cabinet now. It may save your fish’s life one day or save a fellow reefer’s fish. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. I’ve successfully fought off Velvet in the past and I am happy to share my experience with you.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Goldfish Tank – Your Guide To Successful Goldfish Care

    Goldfish Tank – Your Guide To Successful Goldfish Care

    After 25 years of watching goldfish keepers make the same mistakes, goldfish are not easy. They produce more waste than fish three times their price and need more space than most people realize. A single goldfish needs 20 gallons minimum and heavy filtration. Most goldfish deaths come from undersized tanks and inadequate filtration.

    A goldfish tank is not a set-it-and-forget-it project. It is a commitment to managing waste.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    The Goldfish is one of the most popular fish in our aquarium hobby. It may even have been the first fish you had when you first got introduced to aquariums. You may have even come across this article thinking about setting up a Goldfish tank for the first time or for a loved one. They really are amazing fish that is also easily misunderstood. Because they are first-time fish, a number of us enter into Goldfish care with little knowledge on what is needed to have them thrive.

    I’m sharing this article with you today so you can learn all the essentials plus more. I want you to be very successful in caring for your pet Goldfish. As quick disclosure, this blog post will contain affiliate links which I may get a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase. Now let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Goldfish are not beginner fish. They require larger tanks and are quite messy
    • They are coldwater fish and are best with other goldfish
    • Live plants with goldfish is possible if you know what plants to select
    • There are slim-bodied and fancy goldfish. Slim bodied are more athletic and can live in ponds

    History of Goldfish

    One crazy fact about Goldfish is that they were first kept for their meat. Yes, that’s right. Goldfish used to be what was for dinner in China, their area of origin. Goldfish are the domesticated version of wild carp from East Asia. Their original colors were silver-grey and they were known as “chi” in the East. It was one of the most common staples of meat in China at one time.

    Common Carp

    As carp continued to be bred for meat, a strange thing happened. Genetic mutations would occur with the carp and these “mutants” would end up with flashy red, yellow, and orange colors. If these fish were in the wild, they would get quickly eaten by predators since they stood out so much. These flashy-looking new fish caught the eye of Buddhist monks in the 9th century. They began to keep these colorful fish in their ponds. The Goldfish was born at this time as an ornamental pet. 

    The breeding of the fancy Goldfish varieties did not begin until the 1600s starting in Ming Dynasty China. They were highly regarded for their scales and it was tradition for a man to give his wife a goldfish on their first anniversary to symbolize the prosperous years to come. Goldfish were imported to North America around the 1850s. This video by Aquatography provides a deep look into the origins of goldfish.

    Care – The Major Factors We Need To Know

    Goldfish on the surface seem very hardy and easy to take care of. For the most part, they are. However, we want to have the best environment we can place them in. I want to go beyond the basic beginner setup and set you up for long-term success. Goldfish care is broken down into several parts:

    We have a video from our YouTube Channel that you can follow along as well. Be sure to check both as our blog goes into more detail. If you enjoy our channel, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

    Aquarium Size

    I’m going to say it upfront to my readers. Goldfish do not belong in a Goldfish bowl. You may see Goldfish bowls everywhere, but bowls are not big enough for the long-term. You may purchase them as young new fish for your fish tank, but they will get large. In fact, the Common Goldfish can grow up to 10 inches in size and Fancy Goldfish can grow up to 8 inches in length. Some have grown as large as cats in rivers! That is a lot of Goldfish for a tank! Goldfish also have a lot of mass, especially the Fancy types. Given their adult sizes, it’s no wonder they were originally kept in ponds.

    When sizing an aquarium for a Fancy Goldfish, you will want to start out with a tank size of 20 gallons for a single Fancy. After that, it’s roughly 10 gallons per every other Fancy Goldfish. This means a 40 gallon tank can hold 3 adult-sized Fancy Goldfish. That doesn’t sound like a lot of fish, but remember they get pretty big. We need to ensure an aquarium is big enough not only for them to have room to swim around, but also so you are not a slave to water changes.

    For a common variety of Goldfish like a Comet, you will want to consider an aquarium size of 30 gallons and target at least 4 feet in length. Each subsequent comet you add would need an additional 12 gallons so for a 55 gallon tank, we are talking about 3 full-size Comets. Again, not a lot of fish. Keep in mind that Comets can grow up to 12 inches in length!

    For a Fancy Goldfish setup, I would recommend a larger aquarium like a 55-gallon tank or 60 gallon breeder.  These 4-foot-long tanks offer everything you need to get started. You can go cheaper if you wait for a dollar-per-gallon sale at your local chain pet store to pick these aquariums up.

    Filtration

    Goldfish in general are very hard on the bioload of an aquarium. They are large, messy, eat constantly throughout the day, and stir up your Aquarium Substrate all day. Maintaining a Goldfish tank requires a hefty filter. Keeping in mind that Goldfish are an entry-level fish for Aquarists, we are going to focus on more budget-friendly options. Our best option is a good quality aquarium Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear

    The Hagen Aquaclear is a quality-made, readily available power filter that has stood the test of time. It is very easy to customize each section of the filter stages to suit your needs. It will provide years of reliable operation. Make sure you size up one model that is made for a larger aquarium. A goldfish aquarium produce a lot of waste, so get try aiming for oversized filtration

    Parameters (Water Quality)

    The main thing with Goldfish tanks once you have the tank cycled is consistently monitoring your Nitrate and pH levels. Ammonia is a concern when you first cycle the tank or when you add new fish. Goldfish, due to their messiness and consistent desire to eat will produce a lot of waste. A full goldfish tank will end up running higher nitrate levels as a result. You want to test your nitrate levels regularly with a proper Aquarium Test Kit. Take care of your goldfish by ensuring your nitrates don’t go above 40. This will ensure you have the best water quality possible. 

    The pH levels of your Goldfish aquarium are also critical. Goldfish are like an aquarium at 7-8 pH at all times. This is different from most tropical fish and planted aquarium environments which prefer a pH at an acidic level lower than 7. Make sure your tap water has the proper pH and adjust accordingly if your tap is below 7. Always use a water conditioner like Sea Chem Prime to treat your water. A water conditioner will remove harmful chemicals out of your tap water like ammonia and chlorine and make it aquarium safe.

    Temperature

    Goldfish are cold water fish. Anything over 75 degrees for a Goldfish is going to stress out your fish. Goldfish actually have a large range of temperatures that they can live in. The range is from 50-75 degrees F, with the general ideal range being 65-72 degrees. This means that if you keep your home at room temperature, you should be fine without having an Aquarium Heater in your tank.

    There are two things we have to keep in mind with Goldfish tanks. If you live in a hotter climate, you need to control the temperature in your aquarium in the summer. This require an Aquarium Chiller or getting your specific room where your tank is to a cooler temperature with a mobile AC. If you live in a cold climate with very cold winters, you may want to consider having a heater handy when the temperatures get below freezing in your area. 

    Decorations

    When we think about Decorations for a Goldfish tank, we have to consider both space and safety. Common Goldfish are fast and enjoy swimming around. Fancy Goldfish are slow, clumsy, and have delicate fins. Both types of Goldfish need their space to swim. Consider having an open aquascape when building out a Goldfish tank.

    When it comes to the decor itself, we want to consider rocks, and artificial plants without sharp edges. We take the same consideration as we do with Betta Fish where we avoid sharp edges as the long fins of our Fancy Goldfish can get caught and damaged.

    A good brand to look into is marina naturals when looking at silk artificial plants. These plants will not damage the fins of your Fancy Goldfish. You will need to keep in mind that goldfish like to dig out plants. It may be a good ideal to anchor these down with rocks.

    Substrate

    Goldfish love to stir the substrate in search of food. They have big mouths, so substrates that are medium or larger in size can pose a problem for them as they can accidentally shallow the pebbles. We want to make sure that goldfish have a substrate that they can easily stir and scavenge around. Knowing this, the best goldfish tank substrate is going to be a sandy one. 

    A sandy grain size substrate like the one sold by Caribsea is what we are looking for. We want to work with a thin layer of sand. This is to counteract the big pitfalls of a sandy substrate. Sand can compact and create anaerobic pockets, which is very dangerous for your fish. A thin layer that barely covers the bottom of your aquarium and no more than 1/2 an inch is what we are shooting for. This sandy substrate will get stirred all day by your Goldfish and mimics their natural environment. This substrate is also pH neutral – a major factor because Goldfish need a pH of 7.2 – 7.6.

    Diet

    Food for Goldfish is an interesting topic because the industry is loaded with a lot of food targeted at beginners. These foods are cheap, easy to feed, clean, and last a long time. That is great for us humans, but they are not that great for our Goldfish.

    The most basic food offered to Goldfish is flakes. Most flake food offered on the market is full of fillers, which long-term is unhealthy for your Goldfish and creates a lot of waste. We want to upgrade the diet of our Goldfish to something better. At a minimum, we want to think about quality pellet food.

    A good brand for goldfish pellet is Northfin. They sell a premium Goldfish pellet formula specially designed for them. It is free from fillers and includes a healthy dose of Omega 3s to really help bring out the color in your Goldfish. I would recommend presoaking your pellets in aquarium water before you feed them to your Goldfish. This will allow for the pellets to soften and expand a bit so they don’t expand in your Goldfish’s gut. 

    Going further, we can look into freeze-dried food. I would recommend Hikari’s Bio-Pure Krill. Kill has the ability to boost carotene levels in your Goldfish. This helps produce better coloration in your Goldfish and can prevent them from turning black. This formula is multi-vitamin enriched so you do not have to supplement with a vitamin supplement like Vita-Boost.

    The next step up would be frozen food. These you would likely need to purchase from your local pet or fish store. For frozen food, look for brine shrimp, blood worms, or daphnia. Good brands to look at would be Hikari or Cobalt Aquatics.

    Lastly, we go with live foods. For live foods, I want to look at live plants. Goldfish in general, are known for eating a number of aquarium plants. While this is bad if you are looking for a planted goldfish tank (it is possible to have plants with goldfish – more on this later), we can use this to our advantage when supplementing our Goldfish’s diet. One plant that Goldfish love to eat that is fast-growing and readily available in our trade is Duckweed.

    If you are part of an Aquarium society or know anyone with a Planted Tank, there is a good chance they either have Duckweed or have grown it in the past. Duckweed is also grown in ponds for Koi and Goldfish. Goldfish love to gobble this plant up. It is very cheap to obtain and a very fast grower. It is very important to have food readily available in your aquarium for a Goldfish. We have to keep in mind that Goldfish do not have true stomachs.

    Because of this, they are always eating and hungry. You do need to feed goldfish regularly, but a natural food like Duckweed can really come in handy because you can make it available in your tank, it’s a natural filter, and it is eaten away by your Goldfish throughout the day.

    Aquarium Mates

    Tank mates for Goldfish is quite tricky. They have several factors working against potential Goldfish tank mates. They are a coldwater fish, so that eliminates all tropical freshwater fish right off the bat. Fancy Goldfish also are slow and have large fins, which is attractive to nip for a more active fish. Goldfish can also be bullies themselves. Their large size, mouths, and mass can present problems to smaller fish. For this reason, the best recommendation is to have a Goldfish-only tank.

    That being said, there are some tank mates that would work. These tank mates would be:

    • Coldwater snails like Nitrite and Apple Snails
    • Brittle Nose Plecos
    • Dojo Loaches

    Snails are a great addition because they will work on algae in the tank and for the most part Goldfish should leave them alone. If the Goldfish do decide to harass them, they are large enough to handle themselves and give you enough time to reconsider their compatibility. Every Goldfish is different after all.

    When it comes to Plecos, only the Bristle Nose Pleco is compatible with a goldfish. Common plecos are a bad idea as they require driftwood and can get very large.

    Dojo Loach

    Dojo Loaches (pictured above) are likely the best candidate when it comes to other fish in a goldfish tank. They get rather long at 5 inches and require at least a 30-gallon tank, but they can tolerate the cooler waters of a goldfish tank. They are very peaceful, very active, full of personality, and excellent scavengers. 

    It’s always best to introduce these new fish and inverts AFTER our goldfish have been added. We want to make sure our goldfish are established since they tend to be the ones that are bullied not the other way around! You will also want to consider a larger tank if you want to have other tank mates. A 55 gallon or 75 gallon fish tank would be good options.

    Live Plants

    Goldfish Planted Tank

    Plants for Goldfish like tank mates are tricky. You have a number of things working against you when it comes to them. Because Goldfish like cold water that is 7-8 in pH, this eliminates the majority of tropical aquarium plants available for sale. Goldfish also love to gobble up plants. They will eat just about any plant you stick in the tank. Another factor is that Goldfish stir up the substrate, which means that if you have any rooted plants that need to be established in your substrate, it is likely that your Goldfish will dig them out.

    That seems like there are a lot of things going against you when it comes to aquarium plants, but we also need to think about the benefits as well. Plants will really help with your water change efforts. They will thrive in the high nutrient environment that goldfish will create with the waste they produce. If you don’t want to be a slave to water changes, live plants is your ticket to relief. In large quantities, they can act as natural filtration for your tank.

    So let’s talk about what plants work best. We want to make sure these plants tolerate higher pH, will do well with high nutrients, won’t mind the cooler temperatures, and won’t get eaten by our Goldfish. These are:

    All of the plants above are Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do if you want aquarium plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System.

    Types

    There are a lot of different Goldfish types to house in your aquarium. All goldfish are long-lived and will provide years of joy for you. I’m going to break down a small list of Goldfish for you. I’m going to split it into two types:

    • Slim Bodied Goldfish
    • Fancy Goldfish

    Slim Bodied

    Slim bodied Goldfish are one of the hardiest fish you can purchase in the hobby. They is placed in home aquariums or outdoor in ponds. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures. They are fast swimmers, very active, and aggressive eaters. They cannot be kept with Fancy Goldfish as they will out-compete them in an aquarium with how fast they swim around and eat. Below are a few types of slim bodied Goldfish:

    • Common Goldfish
    • Comet Goldfish 
    • Shubunkin Goldfish 
    • Wakin Goldfish

    The common Goldfish is also known as your “feeder” goldfish at pet stores. They are also the Goldfish you used to get at fairs as prizes. This Goldfish most resembles their original ancestors, the carp. They can grow as long as a foot if given a large enough aquarium or if housed in a pond. They are very hardy, very cheap, and long-lived fish.

    The Comet Goldfish is a variant of the common Goldfish that has a long fancy tail. They share the same hardy characteristics of the common, but with more flash with their tails. They will also get a foot long and are fast swimmers. They a relatively cheap fish to purchase.

    The Shubunkin Goldfish is a multicolored goldfish. These you will see placed in ponds as they get long and command a higher price tag than the former 2 mentioned. Some varieties of Shubunkin will grow fancy tails and fins.

    Shubunkin Goldfish

    Fancy

    Fancy Goldfish are selectively bred fish that have been created over the years. They are not found in the wild and exhibit multiple unique characteristics depending on the type. They are fish with a lot of mass on them and are clumsy in nature. They have long elegant fins and are slow swimmers. Because of the slower swimming speed, they do not mix well with slim-bodied Goldfish as they will be unable to compete with them for food.

    These egg shaped fish are valued for their looks. They tend to be more delicate than slim bodied Goldfish, but there are several varieties that are hardy and appropriate for beginners. A few examples of Fancy Goldfish types are:

    Ryukin Goldfish

    The Fantail, Black Moor, and Ryukin Goldfish are great fancy varieties that are appropriate for beginners. The Lionhead and Telescope Goldfish are varieties that would be considered more delicate and better suited for experienced Goldfish keepers. The main difference between the first three and their others is what stands out with the two other fish. The Lionheads are so modified that their dorsal fin is missing. Their fleshy-like head and clumsy nature make them sensitive to injury. For the Telescope, it’s the eyes. The eyes give them limited vision and make them delicate. It’s another Fancy that is not for beginners.

    I go into more detail on fancies in this blog post, but I wanted to help you identify what is a hardy Fancy Goldfish and which ones aren’t. The less modified features of the fish, the more likely it will be better suited for a beginner. Of all the Fancies listed here, my personal favorite is the Ryukin. It is bold, elegant, and hardy. It is a wonderful addition to a Fancy Goldfish aquarium.

    Putting It Together

    We have discussed a lot about Goldfish Tank care, food, housing, and types of Goldfish. It’s time to put everything we have learned today and make a comprehensive setup. In this setup, we are going to set up a Goldfish tank with live plants. You can opt not to use plants and save yourself on upgrading your light.  

    • Tank – 55 gallon for 60-gallon breeder
    • Lighting – Add another light strip to host low-light plants
    • Filter – Hagen Aquaclear or Fluval Canister Filter
    • Heater – None
    • Plants – Java Fern and Anubias
    • Rocks – Margo Garden Products 3-5″ Rain Forest Large Rocks (available on Amazon)
    • Substrate – Caribsea Super Naturals
    • Fancy Goldfish – 2 of your choice (after the tank has been cycled)
    • Water Conditioner (To treat tap water) – SeaChem Prime

    To save on money, we can purchase a 40 gallon breeder to 55 gallon tank during Petco’s dollar-per-gallon sale. All the other components fit very well for this setup and for what we want to house. If you opt for a 55 gallon tank, you can house 3-5 fancy goldfish. You will want to anchor your plants to your rocks so they don’t get stirred up by your Goldfish.

    If you opt for a dollar-per-gallon sale tank, you are free to select the light of your choice. I would recommend an led light like the Serene Pro LED if you are selecting a light for a planted aquarium setup.

    Additional Resources

    There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There is one book I recommend when it comes to Goldfish care.

    Fancy Goldfish: Complete Guide To Care And Collecting 

    Over 100 Photos!
    Fancy Goldfish: A Complete Guide
    Fancy Goldfish: A Complete Guide

    An in-depth book on the world of fancy goldfish. Highly recommended and full of timeless knowledge

    Buy On Amazon

    This Book Written by Dr. Johnson goes over diseases, prevention, health, breeding, and proper fish selection. It contains over 100 color photos of Fancy Goldfish. The information contained in this book is a full deep dive into the world of Fancy Goldfish. You will become an expert in knowledge after you read this book. It does have some outdated information given it was published back in 2001, but the majority of the information in this book I would consider evergreen.

    I would highly recommend it to anyone who really wants to keep the more exotic Fancy Goldfish or considering expanding into larger display tanks.

    FAQs

    What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

    The minimum size tank that a goldfish needs is 20 gallons. For each additional goldfish after the initial one, you will need at least 10 gallons. The best starter size to house multiple goldfish would be a 55 gallon tank.

    How Long Can They Live In A 1 Gallon Aquarium?

    A goldfish will not thrive and may not live very long in a 1-gallon tank. These tanks are too small for them. Goldfish do not have a labyrinth organ like a betta fish. This is how betta fish can live in small containers. Even then, it’s not ideal to place a fish in such a small tank. Consider placing your goldfish in an appropriately sized tank for its long-term health.

    Can They Live Without A Filter Or Air Pump

    Yes, goldfish can live without a filter or an air pump. However, it’s risky to do so. Without a filter, a goldfish tank may experience ammonia spikes.

    Closing Thoughts

    Goldfish go way beyond the fish in the bowl that money of us have seen in the past. There are many varieties of Goldfish with some of the exotic Fancy types selling for hundreds of dollars. They are large fish with personality and unique aesthetics. They do require larger tanks long-term, but they are long-live fish easily living over 10 years in more aquariums. I hope I showed you what Goldfish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Betta Fish Care Guide: What They Actually Need to Thrive

    Betta Fish Care Guide: What They Actually Need to Thrive

    Most Betta Fish owners kill their fish slowly without realizing it. Tiny bowls, no heater, zero filtration. I have kept bettas for over 25 years and the difference between a Betta Fish surviving and actually thriving is night and day. This is what real Betta Fish care looks like.

    If your Betta Fish is not flaring, building bubble nests, and actively exploring, something is wrong with the setup.

    A healthy Betta Fish lives 3 to 5 years. That means years of weekly water changes, a heated and filtered tank, and a varied diet. This is not a disposable pet.

    A betta in a filtered, heated 5-gallon tank acts like a completely different animal than one sitting in a cup at the pet store. The difference is not subtle. It is dramatic.

    Table of Contents

    The Betta Fish for some of us fish keepers was our first experience with a pet fish. It was our introduction to this wonderful world of aquarium keeping. Betta Fish after all has a lot going for them that makes them great pets. They have a great personality and come in a variety of colors. They can exist in smaller tanks and is relatively hardy as long as the environment is properly cared for.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Betta Fish What They Actually Need to Thrive

    Want a centerpiece fish for a nano tank? Get a betta. Want a peaceful community schooler? Get ember tetras instead. Want low maintenance? Get neither. Both need real care.

    The most common mistake I see with bettas is the bowl. It is still the number one killer of betta fish in this hobby. A betta in an unheated, unfiltered bowl is not living. It is slowly dying. The pet store cup is transport, not housing. The second mistake is assuming all bettas can have tank mates. Every betta has a different temperament. Some tolerate a community setup with small, peaceful fish. Others attack anything that moves, including snails. You cannot predict this before you try it, so always have a backup plan. Finally, people underestimate how much bettas respond to enrichment. A betta in a bare 5 gallon tank with nothing to explore will sit at the bottom and do nothing. Add plants, a cave, something to investigate, and you see a completely different fish. They are curious, interactive animals that need stimulation.

    The Reality of Keeping Betta Fish

    They are not low-maintenance pets. Bettas need a heater, a filter, and weekly water changes just like any other tropical fish. The myth that they thrive in small, unfiltered containers has killed millions of these fish. A proper betta setup starts at 5 gallons with a gentle filter and a heater set to 78 degrees.

    Aggression varies wildly between individuals. Some bettas tolerate tank mates without issue. Others attack anything that moves, including snails. There is no way to predict this before you try it. Always have a backup plan if your betta turns out to be a loner.

    Fin rot is the number one killer. Poor water quality causes fin rot faster in bettas than in almost any other fish. Those long, flowing fins are bacteria magnets in dirty water. Weekly 25% water changes are not optional. They are the single most important thing you do for this fish.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a betta in an unheated bowl and calling it a day. Bettas are tropical fish that need 76 to 82 degrees. Below 74, their immune system shuts down and they stop eating. A $15 heater is the difference between a vibrant fish and a slow death.

    Expert Take

    After 25 years of keeping bettas, the single best upgrade you can make is a quality heater in a 5-gallon filtered tank. Everything else matters less than getting the basics right first.

    Key Takeaways

    • Betta fish are the best beginner fish to start your aquarium journey with
    • A 5-gallon aquarium is a minimum needed for a single adult Beta fish
    • Betta fish require heaters as they prefer warmer waters
    • Betta fish are aggressive to other Bettas but is bullied by many tropical fish
    • There are a vast variety of Betta fish varieties available with many of the rarer variants being better acquired via online stores

    A Quick Overview

    Scientific Name Betta splendens
    Common Names Betta Fish, Siamese Fighting Fish
    Family Gourami
    Origin Thailand
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Beginner
    Activity Slow to Moderate
    Lifespan 2 – 5 years
    Temperament Peaceful (Aggressive to own kind)
    Tank Level Middle to top
    Minimum Tank Size 5 gallon
    Temperature Range 76°-81°F
    Water Hardness 5 to 20 DH
    pH Levels 6.5. 8.0 (for most varieties)
    Filtration/Water Flow Low
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg-layer
    Difficulty to Breed Easy to breed
    Compatibility Community tank (with properly selected species)
    OK, for Planted Tanks? Yes

    Classification

    Taxonomic Rank Classification
    Common Name Betta Fish
    Scientific Name Betta splendens
    Order Anabantiformes
    Family Osphronemidae
    Genus Betta
    Species B. Splendens

    All About Betta Fish Care

    The Betta Fish’s scientific name is Betta splendens. They are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. They originate from Asia and were kept in the past for their fighting nature. They were originally brought into aquariums by locals who caught on rice paddies. They were first imported to the US in 1927. These days, Bettas are primarily kept for their appearance. They have been selectively bred over the years into many different colors and tail types. They are now known as the designer fish in the freshwater hobby.

    In the wild, Betta splendens originate from Southeast Asia. They are native to areas that are visited by frequent flooding that will also go through periods of intense droughts afterward. As a result, Betta evolved to become a labyrinth fish. A labyrinth is a fish that has the ability to take in oxygen from the air as well as take oxygen from its grills. Because of this adaption, Bettas have the ability to live outside of water for short periods of time and can breathe the air around them provided they can stay moist. This is the reason why you will see Bettas in small containers at the pet store or at home (though I would not recommend this — more on this as we through this post).

    Here is a short video on Betta for a quick intro from my YouTube Channel. If you like it, please subscribe for more great videos!

    Betta is pronounced Bet-tah. It is very common for newcomers to pronounce it as Bay-tah. They received their name from the ancient Asian “Bettah” warrior clan. They were discovered in Thailand. Their Thai name is Iken Bettah, which is translated as “biting fish.” They are also known as Siamese fighting fish. This name was taken from the word Siam, with Siam being the former name of Thailand. They became very popular in the mid-1800s for their fighting. The fighting sport became so popular that the King of Thailand ended up regulating the sport and taxing it. The sports competitions were actually measured on the fish’s bravery versus the damage they inflicted on their opponent, however.

    Male and Female Differences

    Males and females are distinctly different when it comes to Betta Fish. The males are more colorful with larger fins. Females have shorter fins and are duller in color. Male betta fish also will have a more torpedo-shaped and larger body. Female betta fish also have an Ovipositor on the undersize of their body. These are tiny tubes that release eggs.

    Betta Male versus Female

    The International Congress (Competitions)

    Betta Fish breeding has been very popular over the years with breeders raising some of the most beautiful fish you will ever see in the hobby. In fact, there are competitions for the show Bettas (pronounced Bet-uh) hosted by the International Betta Congress (IBC). Below is a video by DocAquaTV showing an IBC competition in full swing. There is a huge community when it comes to Betta Fish, and seeing these unique-looking and high-quality Betta is a real treat.

    I would highly encourage anyone who is passionate about keeping these fish to look into a scientific-based community like the International Betta Congress and maybe even think about joining to deep dive into the Betta world. They offer a lot of benefits like their membership forum and magazine. They have been around since 1967 and really take efforts to bring education and care to Bettas all over the world.

    The Major Factors We Need To Know

    Now that we know a little bit about the Betta itself and the scientific-based community that supports them let’s talk caring for your betta. We are going to split care for a Betta Fish into the following elements:

    1. Housing
    2. Filtration
    3. Heating
    4. Decor
    5. Diet
    6. Tank Mates

    Aquarium (Housing)

    I’m going to be very upfront and clear to my readers here with this statement. The best aquarium to start with for a Betta is a 5-gallon tank. That’s correct, 5 gallons. You may be a little taken aback by this statement as you may have visited your pet store and seen many of the “Betta tanks” available for sale. Many of them are badly undersized.

    I encourage anyone who is keeping a Betta Fish long-term to invest in a proper five Gallon tank like the the ones offered by Marineland and Fluval. Betta fish live best in a good-sized tank and you want the best for your pet. Invest in the proper tank so your fish can thrive.

    We also want to limit the number of male bettas in our aquariums. We should only have 1 male betta in our aquarium unless we are using tank dividers to keep our male bettas separated. Keeping more than 1 male is going to require more than 5 gallons. A 20-gallon tank is best for housing multiple male bettas – 3 to 4 are best for a 20-gallon tank using a 1 betta for every 5 gallons approach.

    Aquarium Filtration

    Contrary to what you may see in the chain pet stores, Betta fish are not best served in a fish bowl. We want their tanks filtered. This will make it easier to maintain as a fish tank without a filter is going to need a water change every 2 to 3 days. This can get very old fast! We want to make tank maintenance easy to do rather than a major chore. Having proper filtration that houses a lot of beneficial bacteria in your tank will provide a proper nitrogen cycle for your fish tank and for your Betta. This will cut down the number of times you will need to change the water int he tank every month and give your Betta a better environment to grow and thrive. I would recommend a Power Filter if you are not using an aquarium kit or all-in-one tank. The best power filter for a small tank like this is going to be a Penn Plex Power Filter or AquaClear as these companies design power filters at this size and both are adjustable.

    When using a power filter, you will still need to protect your Betta. Bettas are known for having delicate fins and being very curious. It’s pretty common for them to get sucked into a filter accidentally or have one of their fins damaged. You will want to dampen the intake of your betta fish filter by putting a sponge over it and adjusting the flow to make it calmer and suitable for the Betta. Bettas prefer calmer waters, and some power filters on the market are designed for a higher gallon-per-hour applications. Adjust it down for your Betta and let them adjust to the flow.  Another alternative is to use a low-flow canister like an Aquael Multikani.

    Tap Water

    Because Siamese fighting fish have labyrinth fish, it is a common misconception to put them in any type of water. While we can use tap water, we want to make sure we have the right type of tap water. Tap water needs to be chlorinated with a proper water conditioner produce like Seachem Prime. Water conditioners like Seachem Prime will remove chlorine, harmful chemicals, ammonia, and nitrite from your tap.

    Never stick a Betta in straight tap water. Always make sure to dechlorinate tap water to keep your fish safe.

    Tank Heating (Water Temperature)

    It may not seem like it because you see many of these Betta for sale at pet stores in bowls or small tanks, but they are actually tropical fish and betta fish need water water. They are most comfortable with water temperatures at 75 to 82 degrees with 78 degrees being your target temperature. I would recommend choosing a quality heater from our Best Aquarium Heaters Reviews post. Eheim heaters are one of the most reliable heaters on the market and are worth a look. Neo Therm Heaters are great as well. They have a smaller footprint that works better with the smaller size of the Betta Fish tanks and will fit in all-in-one tank chambers. Both heaters are accurate up to 1 degree of water temperature, the best in our industry.

    I would also highly recommend that you get a Digital Thermometer as a backup for your heater’s internal thermometer. If you have the budget, you can invest in a proper Aquarium Heater Controller for a more foolproof water temperature regulation system.

    Tank Decorations

    There are two parts of the Decor for Betta’s tank: plants and hardscape (rocks and branches). For plants, specifically artificial plants (I’ll touch on live plants later in the post), we need to be very selective about what we put in our Betta Fish tank.

    Silk plants like the Marina Naturals Plant shown above are what we want to purchase for our Bettas. Traditional plastic plants you will see at the pet store are not safe for a Betta Fish. This is because many will contain sharp edges and do not give way if the Betta runs into them. This leads to the delicate fins of the Betta Fish getting torn up which in turn causes injury and possible infection. We want to prevent as much harm to the delicate fins of our Betta, so let’s stay away from the hard plastic plants if we are going to shop for artificial plants.

    For hardscaping like rocks, we again want to watch out for sharp edges. Hardscaping for Betta Fish needs to be soft or round. You should be able to run your fingers through the hardscape and not get your fingers caught. If your fingers get caught, you have rough edges that will be dangerous to your Betta. Either consider sanding down the hardscape or picking another one.

    Another factor to consider with Betta decorations is to watch out for rocks and other hardscaping with lots of small holes. Betta Fish have a tendency to get caught or stuck in holes. I would recommend that you purchase smooth round rocks or rocks with larger holes that your Betta will not get stuck in.

    The image above is a good example of a hardscape that is suitable for a Betta Fish. A Coconut shell decoration you can find at a pet store is smooth and the hole is large enough to fit the Betta without it getting caught or stuck inside. Lastly, the water surface should have space for your Betta to build bubble nests.

    Diet (Feed Them Right!)

    A Betta Fish is a fish with lots of vibrant colors. That is why it’s vital that your betta fish eat quality food to be happy and achieve brighter colors. The fish food hierarchy in today’s hobby is frozen food, fried dried, pellet, then flake food. We want to be selective in what we feed our Betta fish so I will help with the breakdown. Let’s feed your Betta the best food available.

    Frozen food is at the top of our list because you can get some of the highest-quality blends and mixes. Unfortunately, frozen foods are going to be the one food you will have a hard time finding online. Even if you do find it, the shipping costs is expensive to the point where it is not worth it. Do yourself and your local store a favor and pick these up locally. I would recommend frozen blood worms, black worms, and daphnia. All is found at your local pet stores.

    Next would be freeze-dried. For freeze-dried, I would recommend either freeze-dried Bloodworms or Blackworms. The great thing with freeze-dried foods is because they are dehydrated foods, they will soak up vitamin supplements. Consider supplementing your food with a product like VitaChem to boost their immune system and to keep betta fish healthy. Mixing VitaChem plus Blackworms is a great nutritional mix to feed your betta fish.

    One thing to note in this blog post is that I am not recommending brine shrimp as a food source. You may be wondering why I don’t when many fish stores and bloggers are happy to recommend it. I do not recommend brine shrimp because there are way better food sources you can feed your fish. It’s great if you are in pinch, the store doesn’t have much else, or if you have a picky fish. Brine shrimp are just low on nutritional value. We can do better, so why not?

    Pellet food would be the next food I would touch on. There is really only one pellet food I would recommend for a Betta. That would be NorthFin’s Betta Bits Food.

    Pellet fish should be presoaked before giving to your Betta. This will prevent the pellets from expanding in your Betta’s stomach and causing issues like bloat or constipation. You can also soak pellet food with vitamins.

    Flake food I will avoid. Many types of flake food in our industry are simply not up to snuff for our fish and it’s hard to soak them in vitamins. If you want to go with flake food to feed your betta fish, I would consider flake food with probiotics. One such flake food that comes to mind would be Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Fish Color Formula. It is flake food loaded with probiotics and one of the mainstream flake foods around that I would be okay with recommending.

    The main benefit of live food is the live beneficial bacterial cultures that you are feeding your Betta. These are priceless nutrients that your betta fish need and truly can extend their lifespan and quality of life. However, there are major cons with live food.

    The biggest issue is disease and poor quality live food. You really need to do your due diligence if you are going to feed live foods to your Betta fish. It may even be better to grow them yourself if you really want or find a very trusted retailer who sells them. For live foods, I would highly recommend blackworms. Earthworms are also another natural source that you can pull from your garden and feed to your Betta if you are willing to cut them into bits. Microworms would be another live food to look at. All three of these is cultured at home if you are willing to do so. I included a video from AquaStudent below explaining how to keep blackworms. It’s probably more relevant to Keeping Cichlids given how much you can grow, but I wanted to provide it anyway for your reference. If you take care of live food, you can have success with them. It’s just not something I would not consider for a beginner.

    Tank Mates

    I’ll start this section with a very honest statement. Not every Betta is meant for a community tank. There is also the size of the tank you need to consider as tank mates in a Betta Fish aquarium should not be considered unless you have an aquarium 10 gallons or larger in size. To maintain the lowest levels of aggression possible with these mixed setups, a planted tank setup is going to be key to keeping the fighting down.

    I’ll provide a list below and then explain after. I’m going to start from safest to riskiest. The best tank mates for a Betta Fish are community fish and inverts like:

    1. Snails
    2. Medium-sized Shrimp
    3. Corydoras catfish
    4. Plecos
    5. Schooling Fish

    Snails are going to be our best test tank mate to start with. Snails are low risk to add to an aquarium and we can take time to observe our Betta’s reaction to them. If your Betta is nipping at the antennas of the nails, this is a likely sign that your particular Betta is not going to accept tank mates readily.

    If snails are not harassed, then we can attempt the next set of possible tank mates. These would be Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp like Cherry, Amano, or Ghost shrimp. If your Betta is not attacking snails, there is a good chance they will leave pet shrimp alone. The great thing with shrimp is they are colorful and is used to contrast your Betta colors. Be careful of overpopulation though as shrimp can breed rapidly. There is a chance they could eat the shrimp. A bamboo shrimp is the safest shrimp you can pair with a betta.

    The next set of teammates would be bottom-dwelling fish like Corydoras and Pleco. Because we are working with fish who inhabit a different section of our tank area, it is likely that both sets of species will leave each other alone.

    Cory and Betta

    The final and riskiest set of tank mates are going to be school fish like Tetras and Rasboras. The activity level of these fish may actually stress out the more calm Betta. We have to observe their interactions and watch for warning signs. It is very possible to have a Betta that lives happily in a tank with schooling fish.

    Bettas are naturally solo fish though. To add tank mates into an aquarium with a Betta is asking the fish to adapt outside of its natural tendencies. Take your time and be patient. Be ready to make changes with your tank mates if things do not work out well for you.

    Another thing I forgot to mention in this section is DO NOT place two males in the same tank. Males fighting is where the Bettas got their Siamese Fighting fish came from. Two males will fight to the death in an aquarium. Avoid placing two males in the same aquarium at all costs. There is only one exception – which I cover in this post and is reserved for seasoned aquarists.

    Male Bettas will also show aggression to females. It is best if you want multiple Bettas in your aquarium to go female only. Females are not as colorful as males, but a group of 5 females will complement the colors of your tank as they have unique colors and fins in their own right. A group of female Bettas will require a larger tank and there are really no guarantees of their compatibility as they reach maturity.

    Lastly, avoid fish like tiger barbs that enjoy nipping at long fish.

    Live Plants

    Betta in Planted Tank

    Live plants are a wonderful addition to your Betta to simulate natural habitat. Not only do they add natural hiding places for your Betta, but they are also natural filtration in your aquarium. I recommend live plants for most freshwater setups because they are great for improving water quality. Some plants are also known for being natural water conditioners as they can remove harmful chemicals in your water.

    I would highly recommend Low Light Aquarium Plants for your aquarium. If you do decide to go with live plants, get a Planted Tank LED fixture that can grow plants. I am recommending low-light plants because they are easy to grow and keep. However, many lights that come with starter aquariums will not have the proper light to grow even low-light aquarium plants.

    For tanks these small, there is a Finnex FugeRay model that is available that will adequately cover a standard 5-gallon tank. Another option is a Fluval Plant Bluetooth Nano. The Fluval Nano is a perfect light for desktop aquariums.

    With one of these lights, you are set to grow just about any low-light aquarium plant you can acquire. For low-light plants here are several you can obtain that would work well in a Betta tank:

    Different Types

    There is actually a large variety of Betta Fish available for sale in our hobby. For most of the Bettas, you will see that the pet store will not have a specific breed or type listed. There are actually large numbers of available varieties with Bettas. Many have exotic colors and fins. I’m going to talk about several here to show you the vast variety of Bettas available today. If you are shopping online for exotic-style Betta Fish, I would highly recommend that you purchase from a place that offers What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) fish for purchase and from a place that offers you a multiple-day guarantee.

    Veil Tail

    Veil Tail Betta Fish

    The Veil Tail Betta is the most common Betta you will find at a pet store. They are often labeled as Siamese Fighting Fish at chain pet stores. It is very likely if you are reading this article after you have purchased a Betta yourself that you have a Veil Tail. They are the most widely available Betta in the hobby. After all, this was the original domestic Betta that was brought over to the US. They are also one of the easiest Betta Fish to breed. These Bettas are known for their easy-going nature and are one of the better candidates for a community aquarium.

    Half Moon

    Halfmoon Betta Fish

    The Half Moon Betta is a Betta that is bred and raised in captivity. It gets its name its tail that spreads 180 degrees to form the half-moon. It is a very striking Betta to have. It is notorious for being a very challenging Betta to breed. They are becoming one of the easier-to-find exotic Betta types nowadays due to their popularity. It was first bred in the 1980s. Half Moon Bettas are also known for their aggressiveness. They are best suited to be solo in an aquarium. Many of the fancier Bettas are only available through local breeders, specialty fish stores, or online.

    Rose Tail

    Rose Tail Betta Fish

    A Rose Tail is a variation of the Half Moon. The ends of their tails are more ruffled creating a striking appearance. As the Half Moon, they are also very difficult to breed. It requires a genetic mutation to occur to get the look and as a result, they tend not to be as hardy as other Betta fish species. They are an amazing-looking Betta

    Plakats

    Plakat Betta Fish

    Plakats are a short-finned version of the traditional Betta you find in stores. Plakats are the original Betta and very close to the ones you will find in the wild. They are known as the ancestors of all Bettas in the trade today. They are more actively swimming fish over the other fancier varieties and will do better in larger tanks as a result. It is actually possible to find a Halfmoon Plakat from a breeder. Given the fact the Plakat Betta is closer to a wild Betta, they are hardier, less prone to injury, and more energetic than fancier Bettas.

    Purchasing a fancy Plakat fish is a good balance if you want a fancy Betta, but would prefer a hardier and more active sub-type. The picture above is a Halfmoon Plakat. Another popular variety of Plakat are Koi Bettas.

    Elephant Ear

    Elephant Ear Betta Fish

    These Bettas get their names from their pectoral fins that look like the ear of an elephant. These are one of the more exotic and striking Betta you will find. These varieties can also be found in the wild (though with less bold colors than their captive-bred varieties). They are aggressive Betta and best suited as a sole specimen. They slow down a lot later in life, so a calm tank alone is the best for them.

    Crowntail

    <a href=Crowntail Betta Fish”/>

    This unique-looking variety has web fins that resemble a crown. It is one of the new varieties among breeders debuting in 1997. This Betta variety produces some of the most exotic colors and mixes available in the trade. Because of its breeding though, this also makes it one of the more difficult Betta to find and take care of. They are more delicate than the other Bettas on the list. It requires exceptionally higher water quality for its fins to stay healthy.

    Putting It Together – Creating An Amazing Aquarium

    We spent quite a bit of time talking about Bettas, their care requirements, food, and types of Bettas. It’s time to put it all together and built a set up for you. I’m going to use a Fluval Spec V for this build. It is an all-in-one tank with 5 gallons as its volume. The tank really solves a lot of issues for us, namely the filtration and the lighting. The lighting that comes with the unit can grow Low Light Aquarium Plants and the aquarium size is ideal for our Betta. You can use any Aquarium Substrate you want since both Java Fern and Java Moss are water column feeders so either will do fine without an active substrate.

    • Tank – Fluval Spec V
    • Lighting – Fluval Spec V light is perfect :). No changes are needed!
    • Aquarium Filter – Fluval Spec V stock filtration
    • Heater – Cobalt NeoTherm
    • Hardscape – Coconut Shell or Fluval Driftwood
    • Plants – Java Fern and/or Java Moss (Micro Swords and Crypts work as well)
    • Substrate – Activ Betta Gems Live Gravel
    • A single Male Betta of your choice – Once the tank is cycled!

    We can either use a simple aquascape or get fancy with some Driftwood, to ensure it has no sharp edges by sanding down any rough spots. If we go with driftwood, we can attach the moss and ferns to the hardscape with either thread or superglue. Below is a video by Fishaholic showing how to attach Java Fern to driftwood.

    Tank Water Quality

    Now that you have your Betta tank, you may have questions about water quality. Bettas in general are hardy fish, with fancy sub-types begin to be more sensitive. We want to keep our water quality in good condition when taking care of a Betta. I would recommend doing water changes weekly about 15-20%. You can reduce the water changes if your water quality is high. I always say water changes based on your water parameters. Get used to testing your water conditions every week using a high-quality aquarium water test kit and always use a water conditioner on your tap water.

    Some tanks can go bi-monthly or monthly depending on how well the tank is filtered, which your aquarium test kit will hope you monitor when you should make a water change. Check for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. Ammonia levels and nitrite levels should be at 0 and keep your nitrates below 25.

    For pH, Bettas are pretty tolerant of neutral to soft water. They are best with a neutral pH of 7. They will do fine in a slightly acidic pH if accumulated to it, but as close to 7 as possible is ideal.

    Maintenance Checklist

    Here is a quick maintenance checklist guideline that will help keep your Betta fish happy and to have a long and healthy life.

    Daily Weekly Monthly
    Check water temperature (76 – 81 F) Change 25-50% water in the tank Replace filter media or filter cartridge (mechanical and chemical)
    Observe fish and check for signs of ill health Siphon out uneaten food and water Wash media in aquarium water (if reusable)
    Check equipment to see if it is working (heaters, filtration system, pumps) Test water parameters Clean rocks, decor, and/or driftwood
    Feed your fish Check plant health and prune overgrowth
    Check water levels to see if topping off is needed Clean off algae from glass

    Additional Resources (Books To Read)

    There are some incredible books available about Bettas that go beyond the scope of this blog post. I would encourage you to look into these books and purchase them if you are serious about taking your Betta Fish keeping to another level.

    The Betta Bible is the source when it comes to knowledge about Betta Keeping. It is an expensive book, but well worth it. It is loaded with detailed and expert-level information. It has information about the genetics of Bettas, breeding, and the history of the Bettas in our hobby. It is loaded with over 150 pictures of various types of Bettas and the style of writing is very down-to-earth.

    My Choice


    The Betta Bible


    The Betta Bible

    The Best Book About Keeping Bettas!

    With over 300 pages and written by Ecologist Dr Martin Brammah. This offers one of the best deep dives into the world of Betta care!


    Buy On Amazon

    Written by Dr. Brammah, this book has been known in the hobby as the book of all books. It’s a must-buy in my opinion. The kindle version is a steal at the price if you can get that. It is everything you would want to know and more about Bettas jammed packed into 300 pages.

    The Simple Guide

    If the Betta Bible is too much to start with, the Betta Fish book by Walter James is a good alternative. Weighing in at only 124 pages, it is a more digestible deep dive into Betta Fishkeeping.

    Where To Buy

    Betta fish is purchased at local fish stores, chain pet stores, and online fish stores. You will get the best selection from an online store as they will have many varieties that other stores won’t carry. You can go wrong either way. Bettas will ship in good condition due to their hardiness and ability to breathe air outside of the water.

    WYSIWYG Available!


    Betta Fish


    Betta Fish

    Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!


    Buy Premium Varieties


    Buy On Petco Online

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Betta Fish

    Your Betta Fish will learn to recognize you. It will swim to the front of the tank when you approach, flare at its own reflection, and patrol every inch of its territory like it owns the place. Because in its mind, it does.

    Feeding time is the highlight of the day. Bettas are aggressive eaters that will snatch food from the surface the moment it hits the water. They prefer variety. Pellets one day, frozen bloodworms the next, an occasional freeze-dried daphnia treat.

    Bubble nests appear without warning. Your male will spend hours building and repairing a cluster of bubbles at the surface. This is normal healthy behavior, not a sign that it needs a mate.

    At night, bettas sleep. Sometimes in strange positions. On a leaf, wedged behind a filter, or resting on the substrate. The first time you see it, you will think something is wrong. It is not.

    FAQS

    Are They Easy To Care For?

    Yes, Betta fish are one of the easiest freshwater fish to care for. They have a labyrinth organ, which allows them to tolerate smaller spaces and water with high nutrient content. That being said, Betta fish should still have a tank at least 5 gallons in size, a quality filtration unit, heating, and regular feeding and tank cleaning.

    Can They Live In Tap Water?

    Yes, a Betta fish can live in tap water if you condition the water prior to putting your new fish in your tank. You will want to use a conditioner like Seachem Prime. If you are thinking about using purified water, avoid distilled water or RODI water. You can use that type of water if you use an aquarium materializer, but most aquarists do fine with tap water + a water conditioner when it comes to running a Betta tank.

    How Often Should You Change The Water?

    If you keep your Betta in an aquarium, you should consider changing your aquarium water every 7-10 days. I know some people do keep Bettas in bowls. If you are keeping them in a bowl, you should consider changing the bowl water every other day.

    How Often Should I Feed Them?

    You should feed your Betta fish twice per day. Keep in mind, that you need to have the filtration to feed them that much. Test your tank water to see if your levels are stable. If not, you can feed them less. It’s also okay to have a freshwater fish fast for a day every week. Fasting is actually good for their digestive system!

    Is the Betta Fish Right for You?

    Before you add a betta fish what they actually need to thrive to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Betta Fish What They Actually Need to Thrives need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the betta fish what they actually need to thrive is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Betta Fish Compares to Similar Species

    Want a centerpiece fish for a nano tank? Get a betta. Want a peaceful community schooler? Get ember tetras instead. Want low maintenance? Get neither. Both need real care.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the betta fish what they actually need to thrive stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The betta fish what they actually need to thrive occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the betta fish what they actually need to thrive or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the betta fish what they actually need to thrive needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    A Betta Fish tank is in my mind the best way to introduce yourself to the wonderful world of aquarium keeping. A Betta tank is small and low on maintenance making it a lower barrier to entry than other aquarium setups. There are a large variety of Betta breeds and colors. It is difficult to really get bored keeping Betta because there is so much variety and they are loaded with personality. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

  • Damselfish – Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    Damselfish – Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    After running reef tanks for over two decades, damselfish are sold as starter fish to cycle saltwater tanks. Then they grow up, become territorial nightmares, and nobody catches them in a reef full of rock.

    The damselfish is cheap, hardy, and aggressive enough to terrorize fish three times its size.

    Damsels are easy to add and nearly impossible to remove. Think about that before you buy one.

    Damselfish get a really bad rap in the saltwater aquarium hobby. They are highly aggressive, bite your hand if you put it in the tank, have been known to harass timid tank mates to death, and are a pain to remove if you have to take one out of your tank. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel.

    So why would anyway ever consider a damsel for their fish tank let alone a reef tank? Well they are several:

    • They are an extremely hardy marine fish
    • They will eat just about anything you feed them
    • They have an exclusive blue color that is difficult to find 
    • They are small and do not require a large tank
    • They are reef safe when introduced correctly

    Back in the day before fishless cycling was common practice, the Damselfish was the fish you would use to cycle a saltwater tank because they could tolerate levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates that would kill off many other saltwater fish. Of course, nowadays one should never consider cycling with damselfish.  However, they are extremely hardy in a tank and are a very forgiving fish for a novice.

    Damselfish will eat just about anything you feed them in the tank. They do not require a specialized diet and will do just fine with any food you buy them.

    Damselfish have a blue color that is very hard to find for a reef tank. Think about it for a second. How often have you thought about looking for a blue colored fish to compliment your coral reef tank setup?  Let’s think about likely candidates:

    • Blue Tang AKA “Dory” – Very large, susceptible to ich
    • Powder Blue Tang – Notoriously difficult to keep and best for experts
    • Mandarin Goby – Notoriously difficult to keep from starving to death and will devastate a micro-fauna population in a smaller tank
    • Large Angelfish – Not reef safe and get very large
    • Coral Beauty Angelfish – Hit or miss on reef safe; intermediate level fish
    • Blue Reef Chromis – The most suitable candidate, but get 5″ long and should be grouped

    Wow, that was pretty quick. So unless you have a large tank or pretty skilled at reefing already, your options are pretty limited for a blue fish.  

    Damsel fish - Yes, Sane Damsels Do Exist!

    Most Damsels stay very small. Only a few members get large and should be avoided for a community tank as they get very aggressive. Their compact size makes them attractive for smaller tanks, especially those under 75 gallons.

    Damselfish are reef safe, but have to be introduced in the correct manner. This means that you have to introduce them last and with the right tankmates, I’ll get into this in detail later in this article.

    So we have established the reasons why a Damselfish is a good candidate for your saltwater aquarium, but we have all heard the horror stories of their aggressive nature. Is there such thing as a sane Damselfish?  The answer is – YES!

    Introducing the Chrysiptera Damselfish Species

    Scientific NameChrysipertera
    Common Name (Species)Damselfish
    FamilyPomacentridae
    OriginIndo Pacific
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan to 10 years
    TempermentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size30 Gallons
    Temperature Range73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range8.1 – 8.4
    Filtration/Flow RateAll
    Water TypeSaltwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, Difficult to breed
    CompatibilitySemi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks?Yes
    Ok, For Inverts?Mostly Yes

    These Damsels comes from the family pomacentridae and hail from the indo Pacific. There is a genus in the Damselfish family called Chrysiperta. They are just as pretty as other other Damsel relatives but far more peaceful. They will bring the lively nature and action of Damsels without the aggressiveness.

    I will break down 4 of the more colorful Chrysiperta Damsels that fit the exclusive Damsel blue that many hobbyist love:

    • Azure Damsel
    • Starck’s Damsel
    • Yellow-Tail Damsel
    • Springer’s Damsel


    Azure Damsel
    Azure – Tank Bred and tame

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    The Azure damselfish species is the most mild-mannered of the group. It has a wonderful disposition in the group and has rarely caused disruptions in aquariums. It is the best Damselfish to choose if you are considering one that is blue. In larger tanks, they have been kept in groups. It is as of the date of this post, the only Damselfish of the 4 that is available as tank bred.

    Starck's Damsel

    Starck’s – The Beauty of the Group

    Max Size – 4″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    The Starck is more aggressive than the Azure but still far less than many other Damsels. It has a brilliant blue body with a broad yellow band running along the top. It can almost pass as an Angelfish to a layperson’s eye. Unfortunately the Starck’s Damsel is a hard Damselfish to find available part of the year and commanding a price tag equivalent to Dwarf Angelfish like Flame Angels.

    Yellow Tail Damsel

    Yellow Tail – The “Dory” Substitute

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    This is the most aggressive of the four and has the most horror stories behind it. It’s on the list for two reasons. First, many of the stories I have seen have been involving timid saltwater fish or where the yellow tail was placed in first and established its territory. Both are incorrect ways on how to introduce a Damselfish. Second, the its yellow tail fin and color is often mistaken as a “Baby Dory” by children and with it’s hardiness can withstand a novice hobbyist or parent purchasing a “Dory” (AKA Blue Tang) for their children.

    I personally have recommend this marine fish to potential Blue Hippo Tang buyers along with a lot of education about the care and maintenance required to successfully keep saltwater fish. The suggestion was so common, that I actually was interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with this aquarium fish.

    Springer’s – The Coral Pest Slayer

    Max Size – 3″
    Minimum Tank Size – 30 gallons

    Springer's Damsel

    Of all the damsels on this list, the Springer’s Damsel offers pest control abilities. This Indo Pacific fish is well known for wiping out flatworms in a reef tank, their ability to wipe out pests have been compared with Wrasses like Six-line and Malnanrus Wrasses. The great thing about a Springer’s damsel is they are just as docile as Azures so you can get a small pest control fish without the attitude of a Six-line Wrasse in a small system! In a smaller system they cannot be beat for pest control. Keep in mind though as they mature they will look at your hands as threats to their territory and will likely attack your hands!

    So I have outlined the four best Damselfish. Now let’s break down the best practices for adding a Damsel to your tank.

    Best Practices for Adding Them

    I’m going to break this done into 3 parts:

    • Introduce them last
    • Have other semi-aggressive fish in the tank
    • Have lots of rockwork

    Damselfish are often going to be the most aggressive marine fish you will add to your tank. Because of this, you need to introduce them last into your tank where territory has already been established by your other tankmates. This will prevent your damsel from becoming the alpha fish in your tank.

    Semi-aggressive fish need to be in the tank in order to be successful in the tank. If you have timid tank mates like firefish, damsels should be avoided. Here is a quick list of semi-aggressive fish that suit a damsel’s nature:

    • Tangs
    • Dwarf Angelfish
    • Clownfish
    • Dottybacks
    • Basslets like the Royal Gramma
    • Semi-Aggressive wrasses like Malnarus. Caution with flasher wrasses
    • Bottom Dwelling Gobies

    Rockwork is the third factor on our list. You are likely going to have a lot of rockwork if you have a reef aquarium so you will likely be okay. This is mostly a consideration if you have a fish-only setup.

    When selecting damselfish for your aquarium, you pretty much won’t go wrong with these guys if you’re looking for a community setup. Just make sure you have a tank that is suited for the species of fish you are getting, add them last, and pay attention to tankmates.

    Care Guide

    The damselfish on this list, with the exception of the Starcki Damsel, will grow to about 2-3 inches in length. The Starcki will be a bit bigger topping out at 4 inches. Give their more aggressive nature, it is best to keep them in a 30 gallon aquarium or larger with length being a major factor as damsels tend to claim an area of the tank as their own.

    Water temperature should remain at 73 to 81 Fahrenheit, which pH levels at 8.1 to 8.4 and salinity at 1.020 – 1.026. Open spaces are ideal for them as damsels are open swimmers. The rocks you keep in the tank should have plenty of hiding places to reduce aggression.

    Best Food For Them

    What makes damselfish great in saltwater tanks is that they tend to not be very picky eaters, but doesn’t mean that you should just feed the first fish food you find at the grocery store! Damselfish should be offered a complete diet. Let’s talk about the hierarchy of saltwater aquarium food.

    • Best – Fresh/Raw Food, Enriched Frozen Food
    • Better – Fried Dried + Nutrient Soaked Food
    • Good – Enriched Flake/Pellet Food

    The Best Frozen Food for Them – LRS Nano

    There are not many of us in this hobby who will go make fresh seafood for our marine fish. There are videos available on how to do this, but I’m going to assume it’s just not realistic for you to make your own. It’s a pretty smelly process! The next best option would be live black worms if you can somehow get it locally and grow a culture, but again your significant other may not be a fan of you keeping worms around the house or in the fridge ;-).

    So this brings us to frozen food. Without a doubt, LRS Nano frozen is the best frozen food you can get on the market. It is only available at your local fish store so if you are fortunate to have a store that carries it buy it today! The rest of the items are available online with Amazon (Affiliate Links Below) being the best way to get them quickly.

    The Best Freeze Died Food for Them – Fried Dried California Blackworms + Selcon

    Freeze Dried Blackworms

    California black worms have been praised by long-term reefers as a great source of nutrition and the most pickiest of fish will eat them. At least for the live black worms, but as I stated before live is tough to get and this is the next best thing you can get at a reasonable price. These freeze dried California black worms are ready to go for your Damselfish to eat 

    It is highly recommended to soak them in Selcon prior to feeding. The great thing about freeze dried food is they take vitamin soaks like Selcon very well so you know your fish are getting a vitamin rich diet!

    Selcon
    Selcon

    A vitamin enhancer that works great in freeze dried and frozen foods. A great choice to boost nutrition in brine shrimp, mysis, and blackworms

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Best Flake Food for Them – Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flake Food

    While you can make a very good case for pellet food, in our experience damselfish have an easier time eating flake food given their smaller mouths. Pellets are a more appropriate food for their large cousins, Clownfish. What makes Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes stand out is their food contains probiotics. The mix of the flake is also very comprehensive containing highly quality ingredients like squid, spirulina, plankton, krill, and mussel. The product is made in the USA and it’s highly palatable formula are great for finicky eaters and avoids the digestion/nutrition issue common with low quality flake foods.

    Contains Probiotics!
    Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes
    Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes

    One of the better flake foods available for marine fish today

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Are You Ready?

    Contrary to common belief that all Damsels are evil, we have listed several damselfish that are compatible in a reef community tank. As long as you add them last and pick the correct species of fish to mix them with, you should have a little blue marine fish that you can enjoy! Thanks for reading!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Best Reef Safe Fish – Top 11 (That Won’t Eat Corals)

    Best Reef Safe Fish – Top 11 (That Won’t Eat Corals)

    When going to a local fish store (LFS), it can be always tempting to impulse buy a fancy looking fish that you have never seen or heard of before.  Listed below are best reef safe fish fish that are best suited for virtually any community and reef setup.  Equipment is important for this hobby, but proper fish selection is critical for success.  I always would find it frustrating to see LFS sell fish that are for advanced fish keepers or not suited to the tank of the buyer (*cough* Tangs).  In a later post, I will go through the top 10 saltwater aquarium fish you should avoid.

    My Criteria For Selecting These Fish

    The fish on my list selected using the following criteria:

    1. Does not require a large tank (more than 4 feet tank)
    2. Well known for being reef safe (won’t nip at corals)
    3. Not overly aggressive (e.g. – Damsels)
    4. Hardy fish or fish that is available as tank bred
    5. Does not require a specialized diet 

    Reef Safe Fish For Everyone

    Here are our candidates. I’ll go over more details below. This is a quick reference point for you.

    In a hurry? I recommend Tank Raised Clownfish for any reef tank!

    PictureNameMinimum Tank SizeLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Tank Raised Clownfish     		Tank Raised Clownfish

    20 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Banggai Cardinal Banggai Cardinal

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Orchid Dottyback Orchid Dottyback

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Royal Gramma Royal Gramma

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Blue Green Chromis Blue Green Chromis

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Firefish Firefish

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Six Line Wrasse Six Line Wrasse

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Watchman Goby Watchman Goby

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Midas Blenny Midas Blenny

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    McCosker's Wrasse McCosker’s Wrasse

    55 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price
    Azure Damselfish Azure Damselfish

    30 Gallons

    		Click For Best Price

    The Top 11 For Any Saltwater Aquarium (2023 Update)

    Let’s dive into each fish and their profiles. These reef aquarium fishes will be suitable for virtually any saltwater aquarium.

    1. Tank Raised Clownfish (Ocellaris or Percula Species)

    Editor’s Choice
    Tank Raised Clownfish
    Tank Raised Clownfish

    Best Choice For Reef Tanks!

    Clownfish are hardy, full of personality, and are safe for all corals. They are an icon for any saltwater tank

    Click For Best Price Purchase ORA Clownfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 20 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive

    The Ocellaris clownfish is the industry’s most popular saltwater aquarium fish.  With the explosion of the tank raised fish industry, all sorts of designer clownfish are now available.  Ocellaris clownfish can be kept in pairs as long as you buy two when young or purchase one larger and one smaller.  They are known to spawn in captivity and will host corals. They are 100% reef safe and hardy fish  Quite simply, a reef tank is incomplete without a pair!

    2. Banggai Cardinalfish

    Peaceful Fish
    Banggai Cardinal
    Banggai Cardinal

    A peaceful and easy going fish. They are very hardy and openly breed in aquariums. Available as tank bred

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive

    Peaceful tank mates, great personality and striking black lines make up this iconic saltwater aquarium fish. They can also be kept in pairs, will spawn in captivity, and are very hardy.  The Banggai Cardinalfish is the poster child of how hobbyist, industry professionals, and scientists came together to support sustainable production of a marine species in captivity. They are excellent for reef tanks and will not bother any tank inhabitants or corals. They are ideal beginner saltwater fish. 

    3. Orchid Dottyback

    Orchid Dottyback
    Orchid Dottyback

    Tank bred and very hardy. This is the most mild-mannered dottyback you can purchase

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

    Yes, I know this is a bad picture–but the fish is awesome. Dottybacks in general get a bad rap.  This is mostly due to the fact that most dottybacks can channel their inner damsel and create havoc in your reef tank.

    Fortunately, the Orchid Dottyback is not one of those. They have a mild temper in a community reeftank and are the great tankmates.  It is not recommended to keep these in pairs unless you can purchase a mated pair.  There is no easy way to identify the differences between a male and female, and they do not change gender like clownfish.  Nevertheless, they are a great saltwater aquarium fish. They are reef safe and actually do a good job at eradicating bristle worms from an aquarium.

    4. Royal Gramma

    Royal Gamma
    Royal Gamma

    Amazing colors and easy to care for. The royal gamma will not bother any coral or invert in your aquarium

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

    A striking blend of colors and personality make up this beautiful saltwater aquarium fish.  The Royal Gramma will try to be the boss in your tank, but will generally be kept in check by clownfish, tangs, and angelfish.   They will be aggressive to similar bodied fish and their own kin.  You cannot keep both a Dottyback or Royal Gramma in the same reef aquarium so pick the one you prefer.  I lean towards to the Orchid Dottyback because they are available as tank bred. The Gramma is more mild mannered than the Orchid. They will not bother any corals

    5. Blue Green Chromis

    Blue Green Chromis
    Blue Green Chromis

    A schooling reef fish. These are great in larger numbers to see their schooling nature

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3.5″
    • Temperament – Peaceful

    The Blue Green Chromis hardy long-lived saltwater fish that will school together.  They are the neon-tetra of saltwater aquarium fish. You cannot go wrong putting this fish in your tank.

    6. Firefish

    Great For Nano Reefs
    Firefish
    Firefish

    Peaceful and great in smaller fish. Make sure your tank is covered. They are jumpers

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 10 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Peaceful

    The Firefish is the go to saltwater fish for nano tanks.  Peaceful, quiet, striking colors, and very hardy.  They can be kept in pairs and generally the pair will be together, but it is best to purchase them young to increase your chances of success.  

    They are timid fish that can be harassed by more aggressive tank mates. They are model citizens in a reef aquarium. They are safe for all corals and invertebrates.  

    7. Six Line Wrasse

    Great For Coral Pests
    Six Line Wrasse
    Six Line Wrasse

    A coral pest eliminator that will not harm corals. They are on the aggressive side so add them last

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Semi-aggressive

    Wrasses are very active fish.  The Sixline Wrasse is no exception.  A reef safe and hardy saltwater aquarium fish.  The only downfall with this wrasse is they are a on the aggressive side and will harass easily intimidated fish.  It’s best to keep them with other semi-aggressive fish like clownfish and to add them last to avoid any tank drama. They do an amazing job at removing various pests from corals while still remaining reef safe. 

    8. Yellow Watchman Goby

    Great With Pistol Shrimps
    Watchman Goby
    Watchman Goby

    A tank bred goby that has a symbiotic relationship with pistol shrimp. Hardy and won’t bother any corals

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Peaceful

    The Yellow Watchman Goby is considered one of the best saltwater aquarium fish for beginners.  They can be paired with a pistol shrimp and they two will form a pair.  If you are attempting a pair, ensure that you have at least a 2″ sand bed available and purchase a small shrimp like a candy cane shrimp.  Seeing the interaction with watchman goby and a pistol is a joy. The goby works to keep the shrimp safe which the shrimp does it’s work on the sand and gather food.

    If you decide not to pair them with a shrimp, they are still a great fish to have on their own and readily eat any prepared food. 

    9. Midas Blenny

    Midas Blenny
    Midas Blenny

    A beautiful fish with a unique swimming style. They are excellent for any coral setup and are very active in the aquarium

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 6″
    • Temperament – Peaceful

    The Midas Blenny is the perfect Blenny.  Colorful, great personality, and completely reef safe. Most hobbyist who have them state they are their favorite saltwater fish in the tank. They have no swim bladder so they are consistently moving and have an eel like look when swimming.

    10. McCosker’s Wrasse

    McCosker's Wrasse
    McCosker's Wrasse

    A lovely and peaceful community wrasse. The males like to flash their fins. They are 100% reef safe

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 55 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″
    • Temperament – Peaceful

    The McCoosker’s Wrasse is only fish on the list that requires a tank larger than 3 feet.  It is generally encouraged to keep them in groups as the male will perform colorful displays to the females in the tank.  However, you will need to introduce the female first or introduce as a group.  They do change genders like clown fish.  

    They are one of lesser aggressive tank mates, so if you are going to keep them, make sure they are one of the first saltwater aquarium fish you put in your tank.  These wrasse fish are known to be jumpers so a cover is recommended. 

    11. Azure Damselfish

    A Sane Damselfish!
    Azure Damselfish
    Azure Damselfish

    The Safest Damsel For Reef Tanks

    Damsels get a bad rep. This one bunks the trend if introduced last. They are the least aggressive damsels you can add

    Click For Best Price

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 30 Gallons
    • Max Size – 2.5″
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive

    Also known as the Kupang Damsel, this is easily the most controversial fish on my list. Here me out before you react though. Not all damselfish are horrible. You can check our damselfish article for more details about it. Among all the damels available in our hobby, the Azure is the best option for a community reef fish.

    They will still be careful considerations to be made to ensure you have success with their more aggressive nature. If you take the right steps, they make the cut on my list. You cannot have more than one of these per 18 inches of reef tank length as they will bully each other to death. They are great color additions as they contrast a number of reef aquarium fishes with their blue colors. They also look amazing under actinic reef lighting.  

    Honorable Mentions

    These fish could have made the list, but we ran out of room to talk about them in the article

    • Chalk bass – great fish, hard to find in stores
    • Swallowtail Angelfish – reef safe, moderate difficulty
    • Engineer Goby

    Fish To Avoid

    • Powder Blue Tang – Reef safe, but not hardy
    • Leopard Wrasse – Does bad in captivity
    • Mandarin Goby – Tends to strive in a tank unless it’s large and full of copepods
    • Maroon Clownfish – Aggressive as an adult

    What Does The Term Mean?

    You would be surprised being on this post how confusing this term can be. I’m going to define this for you so you can determine how best you want to build your reef.

    What Does It Mean In The Hobby?

    The general term reef safe means that the fish you purchase will not brother corals and other sensitive invertebrates. Because the general term means the fish won’t bother corals and inverts, you will get a lot of “with caution” in our trade. To help, Let’s break it down further with fish that won’t eat corals and fish that won’t eat inverts.

    The Ones That Won’t Eat Corals

    To me, this is what I define as reef safe to truly be. These fish will not eat corals and do not pose a danger to them. The following fish species are generally not going to eat corals:

    • Damselfish
    • Clownfish
    • Most tangs
    • Most blennies
    • Cardinalfish
    • Most wrasse fish
    • Gobies

    The Ones That Won’t Eat Corals, But Will Eat Inverts

    The list above are the usual fish species you will see listed as safe, but we can take it even further. These fish will not eat corals, but may pose a danger to inverts like shrimp and small fish.

    • Lionfish
    • Reef safe triggerfish
    • Marine bettas
    • Snowflake eels
    • Hawkfish
    • Hogfish
    • Groupers like the Miniatus

    Notice that our list got a lot bigger. Yes, you can get pretty creative when you open up your reef tank to fish that will eat inverts, but will not bother your corals. You will need a larger reef tank to house this fish, but you can add more color and more aggression to the tank with these choices. If you don’t believe me, check out this video by Robs Koi Pond. His snowflake eel is happily house in his reef tank.

    FAQS

    Which Ones Go Well With Corals?

    Generally any fish that does not have a taste for corals are your best bet. These types of fish would generally be damsels, clownfish, most tangs, blennies, cardinal fish, most wrasses, and gobies.

    Note when it comes to the term reef safe – there are two types. Reef safe meaning they will not eat corals and another classification meaning they will not eat inverts like crabs and shrimp like cleaner shrimp.

    Knowing this, there are some fish like Lionfish that will happily eat small fish and small inverts, but will not bother corals.

    Which Is The Most Peaceful Saltwater Species?

    Most blennies and gobies are considered the most peaceful saltwater fish you can buy. Cardinalfish are also a great choice. Some fairy wrasses are also considered timid and will not bother most fish.

    Which Is The Easiest Saltwater Species To Keep?

    In general, clownfish are going to be the easiest and least demanding fish you can keep in a saltwater aquarium. They are semi-aggressive, but are generally hardy and come tank bred. They are reef safe and are small enough to be comfortable in most saltwater tank sizes.

    What Are Your Recommendations?

    I created this list to help starters and I know I did exclude a few excellent choices.  What saltwater fish do you think make a great start for a saltwater aquarium newbie?  Share it with us in the comment section below or you can read more about our blog here.  I’m sure a lot of new and potential fish keepers would love to hear your feedback :).

    P.S. – Want more info on saltwater reef tanks? Check out my post title 55 saltwater reef tank words of wisdom

  • Yellow Coris Wrasse: The Reef Tank’s Best Pest Control Fish

    Yellow Coris Wrasse: The Reef Tank’s Best Pest Control Fish

    The yellow coris wrasse is one of the most useful fish I’ve kept in a reef. An active hunter that picks off flatworms, pyramid snails, and other pests that can plague a mature system. I’ve had one running in my 125-gallon and wouldn’t go without it. Here’s what you need to know before adding one to your reef.

    The Yellow Coris Wrasse does pest control that no chemical treatment can match. It hunts flatworms and parasitic snails while most wrasses just look pretty.

    The Yellow Coris Wrasse is one of the most underrated reef tank additions in the hobby. And one of the first fish I recommend to anyone dealing with a flatworm or pyramidellid snail outbreak. This wrasse actively hunts and eats both pests, often eliminating a flatworm problem within days of being added. In my 125-gallon reef, I’ve seen it work through substrate, rocks, and the waterline picking off small inverts that would otherwise multiply unchecked. It’s also genuinely reef-safe with corals, which sets it apart from many wrasse species that is hit-or-miss. One non-negotiable: it needs a sand bed of at least 2 to 3 inches deep. These fish sleep buried in the sand at night, and without adequate depth they’ll stress and eventually die. Get that right and this wrasse is one of the best utility fish in saltwater.

    Today’s post we are going to talk about the Yellow Coris Wrasse. This Wrasse is a workhorse in the aquarium. It is a great choice for a saltwater reef tank because it preys on many types of pests that can infest your corals. It is super active and full of personality. It’s one of my favorite yellow saltwater fish that is available in stores.

    About the Yellow Coris Wrasse

    The Yellow Coris Wrasse is known to the aquatic community under various names: golden rainbowfish, golden wrasse, yellow coris, and canary are several names that you will see. Its scientific name is Halichoeres chrysus and it hails from the Pacific Ocean to the edges of the eastern Indian Ocean. In the wild, they is found in areas around 60 to 200 feet deep.They are known for grouping together in all stages of life and young wrasses and be identified with the one or two spots they have on their dorsal fin. 

    Yellow Coris Wrasse in the Aquarium

    Scientific Name Halichoeres chrysus
    Common Name (Species) Yellow Coris Wrasse
    Family Labridae
    Origin Western Central Pacific
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity VERY active
    Lifespan to 5 years
    Temperment Semi-aggressive
    Size 5 inches
    Tank Level All Areas
    Minimum Tank Size 55 Gallons
    Temperature Range 73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range 8.1. 8.4
    Filtration/Flow Rate All
    Water Type Saltwater
    Breeding Breeding not possible at this time
    Compatibility Semi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks? Yes
    Ok, For Inverts? Small shrimp, snails, and worms are at risk

    The Yellow Coris Wrasse is best known for its ability to eat a number of nuisance pests in the aquarium. Really they well eat just about any pest in the aquarium except for aiptasia.

    They will eat nearly any type of meaty food offered to them and do not get too large with the max size being around 5″. They are one of the more docile wrasses in the Halichoeres genus and are model citizens in your tank. They are not aggressive towards other fish nor are they particularly territorial. They do prefer a sandy substrate as they are known for burying themselves1. Keep this in mind if you are thinking about a bare-bottom setup. They are a fairly hardy fish and a good choice for a beginner.

    The great thing about the yellow coris wrasse is the availability of tank raised varieties. They is easily found tank bred either online or locally. The tank raised varieties are different than tank bred. Tank raised means the fish as been raised in an aquarium since it was very young.

    This makes the fish hardier, drama free, and easier to care for then usual wrasses you will fine. Whenever a tank raised variety is available I always recommend the tank raised aquarium fish over the older wild caught one. Technology is rapidly advancing. There is a day where we see the first tank bred wrasses. It is very difficult to do right now with current technology and research.

    The main issue with these yellow fish are their tendency to jump out of the tank when stressed. It it recommended that you cover your tank with a mesh screen  to prevent any accidental fatalities.  

    Tank Mates

    Because of the peaceful nature of the Yellow Coris Wrasse, they get along with nearly all saltwater fish. There are two main things two watch out for. The first, is because the Yellow Coris Wrasse is so active, they will bother slower moving and timid fish. Larger predatory fish will also try to eat them. Knowing this, here are a few good choices and others to avoid:

    Fish That Work Will

    Fish That Will Not Work

    • Other Halichoeres wrasses
    • Lionfish
    • Groupers
    • Eels
    • Pufferfish

    Are They Reef Safe?

    Yes, they are reef safe. I have seen reports on forums where they have eating corals or disturbs other inhabitants, but I feel a lot of these issues are mostly due to not having the fish feed well or lack of space. That being said, all fish have different personalities and you could get a yellow coris wrasse who’s personality is not the norm. The best way to prevent any tank drama is having the right tank, having them well feed, and purchasing a tank bred specimen. I have not seen them bother Softies, LPS, or SPS corals.

    FAQs

    What Do They Eat?

    Yellow Coris wrasses are carnivores by nature. They will readily eat anything you put in the tank. Brine shrimp, black worms, shellfish, mysis shrimp are some meaty foods they will enjoy.

    Within a reef tank, a Yellow Coris wrasse will eat bristle worms and copepods mainly. They are great against many types of coral pests like flatworms.

    Are They Aggressive?

    Yellow Coris Wrasses are semi-aggressive, which means they will defend territory. However, they tend to be on the lower scale of aggression. They will get along with most marine fish, even the most timid ones.

    How Fast Do They Grow?

    Yellow Coris wrasses grow very fast. They can reach adult size in within 1 to 2 years. They will display their adult colors within this timeframe. Nearly all wrasses in a home aquarium will transition into a Male.

    What’s Your Experience?

    Let us know your experience with this fish in the comments below. We love hearing everyone’s personal experience and tank stories.

    References

  • Royal Gramma – How To Take Care Of Your Purple and Yellow Fish

    Royal Gramma – How To Take Care Of Your Purple and Yellow Fish

    The Royal Gramma is the best beginner saltwater fish nobody talks about. Hardy, colorful, peaceful in most setups, and priced reasonably.

    Royal grammas are the underrated starter fish of the saltwater hobby. They deserve more attention.

    The Royal Gramma is one of the few saltwater fish that is hardy enough for beginners and interesting enough that experienced reefers still keep them. That combination is rare.

    Are you planning on adding a Royal Gramma Basslet to your reef tank? This fish is striking with its purple and yellow body, but it’s important to learn how to take care of them before adding one to your tank. In this blog post, we’ll discuss the requirements for keeping a Royal Gramma healthy and happy in your saltwater aquarium.

    About the Royal Gramma

    The Royal Gramma has been a mainstay in many reef tanks for many years. Its scientific name is Gramma loreto. It is also known as the Fairy Basslet. It hails from the Caribbean. This fish really packs it all. They work in most saltwater aquariums due to their compact size, they are very hardy, and very peaceful. 

    Species Overview

    Below are the main stats and facts for the Royal Gramma fish:

    Scientific Name Gramma Loreto
    Common Name (Species) Royal Gramma
    Family Grammatidae
    Origin Florida, South America, West Atlantic Ocean
    Diet Carnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Active
    Lifespan At least 5 years
    Temperment Semi-aggressive
    Tank Level All Areas
    Size 3 inches
    Minimum Tank Size 30 Gallons
    Temperature Range 73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range 8.1. 8.4
    Filtration/Flow Rate All
    Water Type Saltwater
    Breeding Egg-layers, Difficult to breed
    Compatibility Semi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks? Yes
    Ok, For Inverts? Mostly Yes

    What Does This Fish Look Like?

    Royall Gramma Fish

    The main attraction with the Royal Gramma Basslet are their colors. There really are few fish that really have this assortment of vibrant colors at this size. The front half of its body is purple with black strips across the eyes and the back half is yellow. They are a lone species in a saltwater aquarium because they are known to be aggressive to any fish that looks similar to it and males Royal Gramma will fight among themselves. If there is a lone male in the tank, it is possible for the group to form a harem, but it is difficult to sex them. Due to their size and temperament, they make good candidates for nano reef tanks.

    If you are looking at trying to have a pair or harem, the best way to attempt this would be to buy 2 immature royal grammas ensuring that one is slightly bigger then the other. What hopefully will happen is the larger fish will become the male. This has also been attempted with a group of immature grammas where the top two in the pecking order are kept and paired up. The remaining Royal Grammas are then returned to the fish store or traded to other hobbyists.

    Tank Requirements

    Royal gramma are very versatile fish. They is small in both small tanks and large tanks. Ideally, you want them in no small then a 30 gallon saltwater aquarium. This gives them enough room to feel comfortable and will not make them hyper aggressive – a common issue with any territorial fish when placed in an aquarium that is too small.

    One of the more amusing characteristics of this species is its propensity to orient itself with its belly toward any nearby hard surface, whether it happens to be the floor, wall, or ceiling of its cave. So, it’s not unusual. Or any cause for alarm. To see a royal gramma specimen positioned completely upside down or on its side within its rocky refuge. While it looks odd, it’s just your gramma being a gramma.

    Grammas are known jumpers. Jumping is caused by stress and Royal Grammas are really good about handling stress. They are not as risky as say a firefish, but it would not hurt to have a cover on your tank for preventative measures. Many reef tanks owners like to use a mesh cover instead of a hard glass lid to have the benefit of gas exchange.

    These fish do well with lots of hiding places. You will want a setup with lots of rocks and caves. They tend to jump in and out of caves. They will not be out of the open as much as say clownfish. They are very hardy fish. They may hide when first introduced and some are just skittish in nature. The more hiding places you have for them the better. They do best in fish only with live rock or reef tank environments.

    Temperament

    Royal gramma’s temperament can either be described as reclusive or bold depending on the personality of the fish. In an aquarium, you will see them darting from cave to cave. They will stick to the rocks and will not be seen in the open unless they are feeding (video source).

    They tend to be territorial fish and will try to chase away any fish that tries to come into their caves, but most fish will have a more aggressive temperature. They will not try to pick a fight with another fish (unless it looks like them). Their aggression is to just to defend their territory, but they will yield to a more aggressive fish. Fish like Angelfish and Clownfish will pick them a little, but the conflict will resolve itself once the more dominant fish asserts its position in the tank.

    They will get along with virtually all fish in a reef tank. Your main concern with Royal Grammas is a fish is too aggressive or try to eat it given its small size. You will also want to avoid any fish that looks like it – like fire fish.

    Diet

    They will eat nearly any type of food offered to them and do not get large with the max size being around 3″. They are an aggressive eater often dashing in and out to grab food. You don’t need to worry about it getting enough food in the tank as they compete for food well. They prefer meaty foods. With most saltwater fish, frozen food is going to be the best choice for diet. Frozen food is unfortunately hard to find online due to shipping costs. I would recommend you shop at your specialty fish store to get frozen food for your Royal Gramma fish. 

    The best frozen food for this fairy basslet are going to be LRS Food’s Reef Frenzy nano. You will only be able to pick this up at specialty fish stores. The next choice would be common frozen food you can find at a general pet store. Mysis shrimp would be the best choice for a staple. You can use Selcon to add vitamins to your frozen mysis shrimp to add more nutritional value to your Royal Gramma’s diet.


    Selcon


    Selcon

    A vitamin enhancer that works great in freeze dried and frozen foods. A great choice to boost nutrition in brine shrimp, mysis, and blackworms


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    Tank Mates

    Gramma loreto is more bark than bite in the aquarium. They will try to assert themselves, but will often times be settled down by more aggressive tankmates like clownfish, angelfish, and tangs. Given that a Royal Gramma is on the lower end of the semi-aggressive scale, they are best near the beginning of your livestock additions since they will not harass most saltwater fish to death.

    They are incompatible with other similar looking fish like firefish. Any large predatory fish that can fit them in their mouths like lionfish are completely off limits.  

    Are They Reef Safe?

    I am different from other bloggers and live fish sellers in that I separate what is “reef safe” into two categories. Reef safe for corals and reef safe for inverts. This allows you to make an informed decision of what you would like in your saltwater reef tank.

    A Royal Gramma Basslet in your reef tank will be a model citizen. They are just about as reef safe as you can get. They are both reef safe for corals and for inverts. I have personally never heard of them ever bothering corals or nipping at them. They do not dig or disturb rock work or substrates.

    Regarding inverts, the Royal Gramma is very well behaved. They get along with nearly any type of invertebrate in the aquarium. Gramma loreto is a perfect fish for any reef aquarium.

    Are They Available As Tank Bred?

    Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a Royal Gramma that is tank bred. This is primarily due to the availability of wild Grammas near the United States and being relatively cheap to import. Grammas are abundant and cheap to purchase at any online or local fish store. Successfully breeding Royal Grammas is also difficult. While they are easy to get to spawn, it is difficult to rear and grow out the larvae and juveniles.

    Outside of the US, there are efforts to tank breed them. One such location is Australia. In Australia, it is not uncommon for a Royal Gramma fish to cost as much as $120 compared to less than $20 in the US. Reef Keepers reported that successful breeding programs are underway with captive Grammas likely to be available this year. As Royal Gramma care for fry improve, I would expect us to see tank breed fish come into the supply chain at some point in the future.

    FAQs

    Is This Fish Reef Safe?

    Yes – a Royal Gramma is one of the most reef safe fish you put in your aquarium. They will not eat corals and will leave more inverts like shrimp and crabs alone. They will adapt to virtually any community reef tank.

    How Long Does it Live?

    , you can expect your Royal Gramma to live over 5 years. There have been reports with other advanced reefers who have kept Royal Grammas for over 10 years! The better the environment and diet for your fish, the longer it will potentially live. This is very much true in saltwater fish as many have lived well beyond their expected life cycles in captive environments such as public aquariums.

    Are They Jumpers?

    Yes, Royal Grammas are at risk for jumping out of a tank. The best way to prevent them from jumping is to cover your aquarium either with a lid or a mesh net. The mesh is preferable as it will still allow for gas exchange and will not harm your fish as much as a glass lid in the event of an attempted jump.

    Are They Hardy?

    Yes, a Royal Gramma is one of the most hardy saltwater fish you can purchase in the hobby. While they are not available as tank bred at the moment, they are far more hardier than many wild caught counterparts in the hobby. Their small size also make them ideal for beginners.

    Are They Peaceful?

    The Royal Gramma, like more saltwater fish are semi-aggressive and territorial. They will defend their territory and try to attack fish who look like them. That being said, they are one of the least aggressive semi-aggressive fish you can purchase. Most fish like Clownfish, Tangs, and Angelfish will beat them out on aggression. Grammas will mellow out in the presence of these fish. You can say their bark is bigger than their bite!

    Do You Have Experience With These Fish?

    Let us know your experience with the Royal Gramma Basslet in the comments below. We love hearing everyone’s personal experience and tank stories.

  • Jaguar Cichlid – Everything You Need To Know About Care

    Jaguar Cichlid – Everything You Need To Know About Care

    Jaguar cichlids are one of the most aggressive freshwater fish you can keep. They will eat anything that fits in their mouth, attack fish twice their size, and outgrow most tanks within a year. I have seen experienced keepers underestimate this fish and pay for it with dead tank mates and cracked heaters. If you are not ready for a dedicated predator tank, this is not your fish.

    Having a pet is one of the best things, especially if that pet is a fish. A Jaguar Cichlid is a silent, beautiful fish, and some of them are great for pest control. Although it will seem like fish are easy to care for, there are a lot of species which require a lot of attention as well as special food or tanks.

    In this article, we are going to talk about an interesting fish species: the jaguar cichlid. Here you can find out everything you need to know about these species including its compatibility with other fish. It’s good to know that jaguar cichlids can’t be put in a tank with Tetra or Angel Fish. They are large and aggressive fish. They are known as “tank busters” among predator enthusiasts as they can crack smaller tanks with their aggressive antics.  

    An Overview on the Jaguar Cichlid

    Scientific NameParachromis managuensis
    Common NamesManaguense cichlid, managua cichlid, guaptoe tigre, Aztec cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginCentral America
    DietCarnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan15 years
    TemperamentAggressive
    Tank LevelMiddle or bottom half
    Minimum Tank Size70 gallon
    Water Temperature Range73°- 82°F (23°- 28°C)
    Water Hardness10 to 15 dGH
    pH Range7.0. 8.2
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to strong
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityAggressive tanks only
    OK, for Planted Tanks?No, will dig up and damage most plants

    General Information about the Jaguar Cichlid

    The Jaguar Cichlid, scientifically known as parachromis managuesis (and also known as the Managuense cichlid), is a large species of Cichlid. They are originally from Central America and is found from Costa Rica to Honduras. Unlike most fish tropical fish, this species is bigger, and it can grow to up to 24 inches! These are highly predatory fish, and this is why it is difficult to find the right tank mate. The jaguar cichlid is very valuable for it’s looks. It is one of the more beautiful, larger, and aggressive Cichlids from Central America that you can purchase.

    The Reality of Keeping Jaguar Cichlid

    Size is the first reality check. Jaguar Cichlid grows fast and grows large. A tank that fits today will not fit in six months.

    Aggression is not optional. This fish is territorial by nature. Tank mates are selected around this fact or they become food.

    Filtration needs are extreme. Large predatory cichlids produce massive waste loads. Underfilter this tank and water quality crashes fast.

    Biggest Mistake New Jaguar Cichlid Owners Make

    Putting Jaguar Cichlid in a tank that is too small. This fish grows fast and gets aggressive in tight spaces. Start with the final tank size from day one or do not start at all.

    Expert Take

    Jaguar Cichlid is a commitment fish. Start with a 70 gallon minimum, run heavy filtration, and stock only tank mates that hold their own. Half measures do not work with predatory cichlids.

    Size and Looks

    The Managuense jaguar cichlid is a big, elongated freshwater fish. It’s flat from sides and it has an oval body. Its appearance shows that it’s a raptorial feeder which has adapted to aggressive assaults. These fish have different sizes when they live in captivity. For instance, a wild jaguar cichlid can reach 60 cm and it can weigh about 7 kg. Here is a video by Mrlilchilly1 showing a full grown Jaguar Cichlid in action.

    Unlike the ones living in the wild, jaguar cichlids that lives in captivity grow to about 35 cm in length. The Parachromis managuensis females can only reach 30 cm and they weigh about 3 kg. These are some of the biggest fish which is put in a tank and kept as a pet.

    The color of the Jaguar Cichlid is silvery with spots of brown and black. Its color pattern resembles the one of a jaguar, as its name states. An interesting fact about their color pattern is that it’s almost impossible to find two jaguar cichlids with the same body spots. This species also presents a big head with a large mouth and big lips. They have pharyngeal teeth which help them hunt.

    Male vs. Female Differences

    A male Jaguar Cichlid is larger and will have more vertical broken bars when young. These bars will disappear once the male reaches maturity. A female Parachromis managuesis on the other hand, will have thinner vertical bars and will have a more pronounced dark bars and have more reddish coloration on their gill covers. Juvenile fish are readily available at fish stores and online. These Cichlids get more expensive and harder to find the larger they are.

    Having Them in a tank

    Parachromis managuensis

    There are some important things to keep in mind when you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet. For instance, these fish can’t share a tank with a lot of species. In order to accommodate the cichlid and the other tankmates, you need to have a tank with aggressive fish. Also, you need to have large fish so that they won’t get hurt or eaten by the jaguar cichlid.

    It’s best to pair the jaguar cichlid with other cichlids like the Red Devil, Texas, or the Midas cichlid. These species are territorial to aggressive which means they are able to hold their own. Aggressiveness is best handled by additional tank space. Keeping your aggressive fish full will also curb aggressive. Hungry and cramped fish will get aggressive with their tank mates fighting for valuable territory. These large predatory fish mentioned will also enjoy the same foods. You will not have to worry about feeding them separately. Be sure to spread out food among each fish’s establish territory to avoid bricking and to ensure everyone gets fed. 

    Another important thing to consider before purchasing Parachromis managuensis is the tank. In this case, you will need an aquarium tank with a capacity of at least 100 gallons of water. The decorations of the tank should be big and bulky like rocks. Don’t put plants in their tank because this Cichlid will destroy them in no time. A good starter tank for a fish this size is a 125 gallon tank. This is a 6 foot long tank with enough width and depth to support a Cichlid of this size and still have room for other inhabitants.

    You will need to put a substrate for the bottom of the tank that is made of large grained gravel and add some middle-sized grains. Maintain the water in the tank at a temperature of 24-25 C. Also, the pH of the water should be around 7 for optimal results.

    Breeding

    The jaguar cichlids have been bred in tanks for a long time. However, there are a few rules to follow when it comes to this species. The best way to help them breed is to make sure that you put 2 or 3 pairs of jaguar cichlids together in a tank when they are juvenile. If you try to put a new female or a new male when you have adult fish. You will risk losing these additions due to the jaguar cichlid’s territorial nature. This is a bigger risk if you your fish is actively breeding. 

    If you have an actively breeding couple, consider moving them to a different tank so that the breeding process goes smoothly. This tank should have at least 50 gallons (or 200 liters of water). Cichlids in general are great parents and are a joy to watch their fry raising process. It is a real threat to share this experience with your family.

    Feeding

    As we mentioned earlier, this freshwater fish is a carnivore and a raptorial which means they enjoy various types of live fish. They can also eat cut up fish or crayfish and dry foods. The jaguar cichlid prefers food like earthworms, crickets and tadpoles. Remember to feed them only once a day because they eat too much. Frozen food is also a good food staple to provide, through can get expensive given how much these fish need to eat at their adult size. Also, experts recommend a fasting the jaguar cichlid once a week.

    These fish can also eat small reptiles, larva, or goldfish. However, it’s strictly prohibited to give these species warm-blooded meat like beef, pork or poultry. This type of meat has a lot of fat and it can affect the health of your cichlid.

    Care

    While it is a bit hard to find the right tankmates for this big and aggressive fish, it’s quite easy to care for them. These are hardy fish that will tolerate a variety of conditions.

    Saying that however, one of the most important things is to keep the tank water clean. Large tanks are necessary for these big species. Apart from the large tank you will need to have canister filter or a sump filter to help you clean the water.

    Remember to change about 30% of the water in the tank once or twice a week. Due to the fact that the aquariums are closed systems the phosphates and nitrates tend to build up in time. This makes the water hardness increase. Despite the fact that this species is aggressive, they are very sensitive to pH instability. If you oversize your filtration you may be able to get away with less water changes, but also monitor your nutrient levels with proper aquarium test kits.

    It’s also recommended to use external tank equipment that can clean the water. Because of their large size and aggressive style, the jaguar cichlid can damage any internal filter or heater. Titanium heaters are recommended when you house fish as large and aggressive as these. Titanium heaters can take a beating and not crack or break. You should also avoid any decorations that can easily be moved or tossed around. Apart from these minor problems, jaguar cichlids are easy to care for.

    Diseases that Affect Them

    Unfortunately, fish are prone to infections and disease, especially predatory fish like the cichlid. Infections are common with predatory fish due to fighting as wounded can get infect. For parasites, one of the most common diseases is Ich. This is treated by simply raising the temperature to 86 degrees Fahrenheit for about 3 days. In case this doesn’t work, you will need to treat the pet with copper. Remember to be careful when you add a new decoration or a new fish to the tank because it is infected with disease. Stress from aggression can also bring about disease if the fish is carrying the disease. Stress will compromises a fish’s immune system, which will lead to an outbreak.

    FAQs

    How Aggressive are they?

    Jaguar cichlids are very aggressive fish. They are territorial and will attempt to eat any fish they can fit in their mouths. Because of their territorial nature, they will attempt to fight any fish that comes near their territory. Due to their size and most aquariums sizes, this will mean they will fight any fish you place in your tank.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Jaguar cichlids can get up to 24 inches in length, but most will end up around 16-18 inches. Males will typically be larger than the females and they will get more aggressive as they get older and more established in a tank.

    What Fish Can Go With A This Type of Fish?

    The best tank mate for a Jaguar cichlid is another Jaguar cichlid — as a breeding pair. Note that a bonded pair will be very aggressive, especially once they start breeding. Other species you can consider if you have the space would be large cichlids like Red Devils, Green Terrors, and Oscars. You can also consider large catfish.

    Can They Live With an Oscar?

    Yes, they can be compatible if you have the space for them to work out their territory issues. It is best to attempt this pairing when you have more experience. If you are attempting to house them together, consider a single Jaguar with an Oscar. Preferably, try a female Jaguar over a male when pairing.

    Conclusion

    A jaguar cichlid does not share a tank. It owns it.

    These are some of the most important things you should know about this amazing freshwater species. If you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet you need to be careful with the tank capacity and the pH of the water. Apart from that just feed them once a day with worms or dry food and they will be fine. Also, don’t put them in tanks with smaller fish because the jaguar can kill or eat them.

    Got any additional questions about the Jaguar cichlid? If so, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation!. Let us know what aggressive fish you have been able to pair with this monster fish!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 10 Most Beautiful Saltwater Fish – My Personal Picks After 25 Years

    10 Most Beautiful Saltwater Fish – My Personal Picks After 25 Years

    I’ve been keeping saltwater fish for over 25 years, and one of the things that never gets old is the sheer beauty of reef fish. When I set up my 125-gallon reef, choosing fish that were both compatible and visually stunning was a real process. you want fish that pop against corals and make the tank come alive. After keeping and observing hundreds of species over the years, these are my picks for the most beautiful saltwater fish you can actually keep in a home aquarium.

    The 10 Most Beautiful Saltwater Fish

    10. Volitan Lionfish

    Lionfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 120 Gallons
    • Max Size – 15″
    • Reef Safe: With Caution
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – Around $40

    One of my personal favorites. The lionfish is generally known to the public due to news of their invasiveness, but in the aquarium hobby they make a great display fish. They are pretty friendly and very hardy in the aquarium – often to the point of getting bullied by some more active fish like triggers and large angelfish.  They will eat just about any fish it can fit in its mouth so they are best with larger fish. They can be kept in reef tanks as they will not harm corals, but may eat inverts.  For those with smaller tanks, you can look at dwarf zebra lionfish which only grows to about 6″ and requires a 50 gallon tank.

    9. Marine Betta

    Beautiful Fish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 55 Gallons
    • Max Size – 8″
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Temperament – Peaceful
    • Price – Around $80

    The marine betta is a very unique and peaceful fish. They are known for being extremely hardy with stories of them surviving tank wipe outs caused by parasitic infections and recovering from wounds without getting bacterial infections. The key with the marine betta is acclimation. They are very shy when introduced and often will do poorly with very active tank mates. They are also quite large, so they need to be placed with larger tank mates or kept well fed to prevent them from eating smaller fish.

    They are known for being reef safe and will not bother inverts as long as they are fed well. They are a nocturnal fish but will adjust to the home and be quite showy to their owner once established.   

    8. Harlequin Tusk

    Harlequin Tusk

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 125 Gallons
    • Max Size – 10″
    • Reef Safe: With Caution
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – Usually over $90

    This looker hails from the Indian Ocean and Australia. They are a great addition to a fish only with live rock setup as they will get also with many other active fish like tangs, triggers, and angelfish. They will not harm corals, but it has been known to eat snails, shrimp, and crabs. The Australian varieties tend to be more colorful and more expensive then the Indian Ocean tusks.

    7. Emperor Angelfish

    Emperor Angelfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 220 Gallons
    • Max Size – 15″
    • Reef Safe: With Caution
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – Around $80 for juvenile and over $150 for adults

    The emperor angelfish is a very bold and large angelfish. It has striking colors with a signature blue-black mask that covers its eyes. They are an excellent addition to a fish only with live rock aquarium and have also been reported to be safe in SPS dominated tanks. It is a large fish with a lot of personality, often becoming the dominant fish in the tank. If you want to know more about angelfish compatibility with reef tanks, you can refer to this reef safe angel fish sheet published by Reef Central users.

    6. Flame Angelfish

    Flame Angelfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 70 Gallons
    • Max Size – 4″
    • Reef Safe: with caution
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – around $50

    Usually when one wants to add an angelfish, this is usually the fish that comes to mind. The flame angelfish is a flashy addition to any tank. In reef tanks, they will usually end up being the most aggressive fish and should be added last. They are also reef safe with caution as some of them will nip at soft and stony corals. Keeping them well fed is the best way to prevent this. They will usually nip at polyps and zoas first. They are great additions to fish only and fish only with live rock (FOWLR) setups.

    5. Lyretail Anthias

    Lyretail Anthias

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 125 Gallons
    • Max Size – 5″
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – Around $30…more for males

    The Lyretail Anthias is flashy looking and a social butterfly in a community tank. Males look like the picture above while females are orange in color. They do best in groups with one male to multiple females. They are known to change sexes if a male is lacking, with the most dominant female turning to a male. They are great fish for a reef tank. 

    4. Lineatus Fairy Wrasse

    Lineatus Fairy Wrasse

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 90 Gallons
    • Max Size – 5″
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Temperament – Peaceful
    • Price – Over $200

    The lineatus fairy wrasse is a very peaceful and active fish that is usually not seen in aquariums. Often considered the most beautiful fish among wrasses, this fish is typically in high demand and seen under what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) sections of online vendors or special ordered through local fish stores. They are great additions for either reef or fish only tanks.

    3. Sargassum Triggerfish

    Sargassum Triggerfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size –  125 Gallons
    • Max Size – 10″
    • Reef Safe: With Caution
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – About $150

    The sargassum triggerfish is known as the most reef safe triggerfish that you can add to your aquarium. Triggerfish in general are a blast to have in an aquarium because they have great personalities and the sargassum triggerfish does not disappoint. They will swim laps around your tank all day and it will vocalize using a grunting sound. The sargassum triggerfish will become a conversation piece in the home. 

    2. Red Sea Purple Tang

    Purple Tang

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 125 Gallons
    • Max Size – 10″
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive
    • Price – Around $200

    One of the most prized tangs in the aquarium due to its coloration. It is a rewarding tang to have and becomes hardy once established. They are aggressive towards other zebrasoma tangs and generally one of the more aggressive tangs available. They are very active in the tank gazing all day and swimming at all levels of the tank. They are a must have for anyone with a large reef tank. 

    1. Designer Clownfish

    Designer Clownfish

    Stats:

    • Minimum Tank Size – 20 Gallons
    • Max Size – 3″ to 6″ depending on species
    • Reef Safe: Yes
    • Temperament – Semi-Aggressive with Maroon varieties being most aggressive
    • Price – Varies some go for over $200

    Designer clownfish are fish that are specially raised through selective breeding to produce unique looking strip and fin pattern combinations. If you are looking for a unique looking clownfish, you will definitely find one if you look at designer clownfish. Their prices can get pretty high, especially for newer varieties.

    Not everyone is a fan of designer clownfish. Natural clownfish available in the industry are beautiful in their own right and would also make it at the top of this list due to their looks, ease of care, compact size, and temperament. You can’t miss with either type in an aquarium. They are one of the best reef safe fish to own.

    Miss Any of Your Favorite Fish? Let Us Known In the Comments Below!

    What are some of your favorite fish? Let us known in the comments below. Thanks for reading.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    Blue Hippo Tang Care: What “Finding Dory” Didn’t Tell You

    The Blue Hippo Tang needs a tank of 125 gallons or larger. It is also one of the most ich-prone fish in the marine hobby.

    If you skip quarantine with a blue tang, you are introducing ich to your display tank. It is not a question of if. It is when.

    Saltwater fish do not forgive mistakes the way freshwater fish do.

    Saltwater fish require stable parameters, quality food, and a mature tank. The startup cost and ongoing maintenance are significantly higher than freshwater.

    In saltwater, the tank runs on stability. Every shortcut you take shows up weeks later as a problem.

    There are so many opportunities to teach children – biological, chemistry, trade skills from DIY projects, plumbing, software, etc. I’m going a little bit off topic in my excitement though – I promise you I will follow up in a later post about the benefits and activities you can work on with your family when you have an aquarium.  

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Blue Hippo Tang

    The Blue Hippo Tang is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

    Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Blue Hippo Tang learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

    Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

    Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

    The Reality of Keeping Blue Hippo Tang

    A mature tank is mandatory. Most saltwater fish need a tank that has been running and stable for at least 3 to 6 months. New tanks have unstable parameters that stress saltwater fish far more than freshwater species.

    Diet is not just flake food. Many saltwater fish need frozen mysis, brine shrimp, or specialty foods to thrive. A pellet-only diet leads to malnutrition, faded colors, and immune suppression. Variety is not optional.

    Quarantine is essential. Marine ich and velvet are common in newly purchased saltwater fish. A proper quarantine tank before adding fish to your display tank prevents devastating disease outbreaks.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Skipping quarantine and adding a new saltwater fish directly to the display tank. One infected fish introduces marine ich to your entire system. Treatment in a reef tank is nearly impossible because copper kills corals and invertebrates.

    Expert Take

    Quarantine every new fish for 4 to 6 weeks before adding it to your display. I have never met a serious reefer who regretted quarantining. I have met dozens who regretted skipping it.

    So What Is A Dory Fish?

    Scientific NameParacanthurus hepatus
    Common Name (Species)Blue Hippo Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Tang, Dory Fish, Pacific Blue Tang, Pacific Regal Blue Tang, Blue Tang Fish
    FamilyAcanthuridae
    OriginIndo Pacific
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate to Difficult
    ActivityActive
    LifespanUp to 20 years
    TempermentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size120 Gallons
    Temperature Range73. 81 Degrees F
    pH Range8.1. 8.4
    Filtration/Flow RateAll
    Water TypeSaltwater
    BreedingDifficult – tank bred available
    CompatibilitySemi-Aggressive tanks
    Ok, For Reef Tanks?Yes
    Ok, For Inverts?Mostly Yes

    The Dory Fish is known by various names including Blue Tang, Regal Tang, Blue Hippo Tang, Blue Surgeonfish, Indo-Pacific Blue Tang or by its scientific name Paracanthurus hepatus. These tangs are found in the Indo-Pacific from East Africa to Japan and swim at depths of 30 to 130 feet.  

    The terms Tang and Suregonfish actually refer to the extremely sharp spines on each side of the fish’s tail, which are said to resemble surgeon’s scalpels. These spines remain flat against the fish’s body and extend only when they are threatened or alarmed. 

    Finding Dory

    They are recognized for their vibrant coloring, yellow tail, and bold black markings. They are capable of adjusting their color intensity of their hue from light blue to deep purple. These colors will often fad as the fish ages. 

    Adults average about 12 inches in length and is found living alone, in pairs, or in schools of 10-12. They are known to live as long as 30 years in the wild – which is longer than any cat or dog! Blue Hippo Tang is a very active fish. It will easily swim miles a day in the ocean looking for food and may move seasonally. They feed on algae and use their sharp teeth to rip algae off rocks and corals. Their diet is not only important for the tang fish itself, but also for the health of reefs as they prevent algae from overgrowing and suffocating corals. 

    Realistic Expectations of a Dory Fish (Blue Hippo Tang) in an Aquarium

    So we have learned that a blue hippo tang can grow to a foot long, can outlive your cat or dog, and swim miles every day. What does that mean in a salwater aquarium? After all, you likely have seen a small 1 inch blue hippo tang for sale at your local fish or chain store. Please do not let this fool you. A small 1 inch blue hippo tang will quickly outgrow a small aquarium and needs a needs a proper tank tank size for a long and healthy life.

    A Blue Hippo Tang (paracanthurus hepatus) needs a proper tank with plenty of space to move around because as we all know Dory just loves to keep swimming! So what does proper tank mean? Well, I’m going to be very honest with you. Dory is a large fish and therefore requires a very large tank with lots of swimming room.  So this means the following:

    • Minimum tank length – 60 inches
    • Minimum tank volume – 120 gallons
    • Recommended tank length – 72 inches
    • Recommended tank volume – 180 gallons

    I know these recommendations are going to be outside of many people’s budgets or wants in the home, but I would rather be honest and realistic about the requirements about the blue hippo tang. I have seen far too many local store happily sell a 1″ blue hippo tang to a new hobbyist with a small tank without thinking twice about the care and requirements.  I’m all about responsible aquarium keeping and want to ensure you are successful for the long-term.

    Doryfish
    Even Petco is starting to get on-board with notices about Dory care

    If getting a large tank is something not feasible for you, but you still want a Dory you are still in good shape because there are fish are would make an excellent alternative.

    Alternatives

    Want a hardy first saltwater fish? Get clownfish. Want more personality? Get a six-line wrasse. Want a showstopper? This fish is worth the effort if your tank is ready.

    The best example of a similar looking fish to a Dory or Blue Hippo Tang are yellow-tail damsels. I have been in the aquarium industry for many years and you would be surprised how often I would hear “Look – a baby Dory!” – from a child pointing at the yellow-tail damsel in a tank. In fact, my story was so interesting that I was actually interviewed by the Huffington Post about my experience with the Blue Hippo Tang and the yellow-tail damsel.  

    Yellow Tail Damsel

    Not only is the yellow-tail damsel much smaller than the blue tang, but it is also very hardy. In fact, many damsels from the Chysipetra genus would make good alternative with their vibrate blue and yellow colors. I actually wrote a blog post earlier about them that you can read about here. 

    There are also some fish among Nemo’s group of friends from the first movie that would make good additions to a saltwater aquarium – including the Gurgle the Royal Gamma and Nemo himself that I wrote about earlier in my Top 10 Saltwater Fish List. Even if you are going to get your own Dory, these fish make perfect tank-mates for them.

    Selection and Introduction

    If I have not scared you off in purchasing a regal blue tang, then I take it you know full well the requirements of keeping this fish so I will continue on. When selecting a blue hippo tang, it is best to purchase a tang at least 3 inches, not thin, actively feeding, and shows no physical signs of disease. The truth with the blue hippo tang is they are highly susceptible to parasites like ich and marine velvet as well as head and lateral line disease.

    I have seen far too many tank crashes where a blue hippo tang is added, they get ich, then the tank quickly crashes as the disease spreads.  Because of this, it is highly recommended that you quarantine a blue hippo tang before introducing them to your display tank. The quarantine period will help ensure that your fish is healthy before introducing them to your main tank. Outside of proper selection and quarantine, the main reason why these fish often get sick is lack of space (which I covered earlier) – and lack of nutrition.

    Nutritional Requirements

    The blue hippo tang is an omnivorous saltwater fish and providing them with a solid mix of meaty and green based foods is absolutely critical in keeping your tang healthy and happy. Seaweed probably the best green source you can feed your tang. One of the biggest secrets out there if you can get your tang to eat it is actually Nori sheets from your grocery store. They are way cheaper than the seaweed products that sellers like myself can get and you can pick them up locally.

    Please ensure that seaweed is the only ingredient and no salt is added. Romaine lettuce and spinach work as well, but there is some debate about this from purists in the reefing community that feel that greens of a marine origin are best. They also are not as nutritious as seaweed. 

    A feeding clip is incredible handy for feeding Tangs. These clips allow the blue hippo tang to naturally graze and keeps the seaweed from spreading around your tank. It may take some time for them to get used to eating this way, but once they get used to the clip it will be a feeding frenzy every time! Here is an example of a Palting from the ReefCentral forum feeding his tangs Nori from the grocery store: 

    For meaty foods, I would recommend LRS Foods. LRS foods are one of the finest saltwater fish foods in the world, used by top breeders in Europe and North America. You want to get top quality food for a blue tang as nutrition is such a critical aspect from keeping them disease food.

    Care Requirements

    A Blue Hippo Tang is a large saltwater fish that require quality water, filtration, and oxygenation. I would not recommend a hang-on back setup for tank with a Blue Hippo Tang. You absolutely have to go with a sump setup and quality protein skimmer and/or algae turf scrubber. The sump will provide you with additional tank volume, stability, and utility for added equipment like auto top offs and controllers which you will likely want to invest in order to ensure your aquarium is as stable as possible. Blue tangs live in environments with natural strong flow and lots or rocks so the flow and aquascaping of a mixed reef tank definitely suits them.

    They are compatible with most other aquarium fish, but be very careful with keeping more than one. Two blue tangs in a single reef tank will often show aggression except in very large tanks. They are also known for getting aggressive in smaller tanks, which is another reason I recommended a tank volume size of 180 gallons.

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are semi-aggressive, which means they will be territorial and harass more timid fish. You can curb aggression with a larger tank. They are also aggressive to other tangs of the same sub-species. If you are considering multiple tangs, consider a tang of a different sub-species too maximize your chances of success.

    What Do They Eat?

    Blue Hippo Tangs are omnivornes, but do better with greens in their diets. A diet with greens like nori, spirulina, and algae are healthy for a blue tang. They will also eat meaty foods like mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, and black worms. A good frozen food to try is LRS Foods Herbivore Frenzy

    Are They Hardy?

    They are not as hardy as other tangs is. They are very susceptible to ich and other marine fish diseases. Tangs like the Scopas, Kole, and Tomini tang are better candidates for first time tang keepers.

    We are here to help you!

    I have gone over what is a Dory fish, recommended tank size, introduction, nutrition, care, and even alternative fish. Following these guidelines and tips in this post will help you succeed in keeping your very own Dory (or “baby dory”). If you have any additional questions, leave me a comment below. Myself and the team here are Aquarium Store Depot are happy to help! See you next time :).