Tag: Fishkeeping

The Reality of Keeping Ram Cichlid

Let me be honest with you. Rams are one of the most returned fish in the aquarium trade. They are stunning, and that is what sells them. But beauty does not equal easy.

Three colors, one fragile fish.

They need warm, soft, acidic water. Rams need temperatures between 82 and 86F with a pH under 7.0 and very low hardness. If your tap water is hard and alkaline, you are fighting an uphill battle from day one. Trying to keep rams in water with a pH of 7.8 is a recipe for stress and disease.

They are fragile when stressed. Rams have almost zero tolerance for ammonia or nitrite. Even a small spike that other fish would shrug off will kill a ram. Your tank needs to be fully cycled and stable for weeks before you add these fish.

Breeding stock quality varies wildly. Most rams in pet stores come from mass breeding operations in Asia where they are pumped full of hormones and antibiotics. These fish look incredible in the store but often crash within days of being brought home. Buying from a reputable breeder costs more but dramatically improves your odds.

They are not community fish in the traditional sense. Rams need peaceful, slow-moving tank mates that will not outcompete them for food or stress them with aggression. Fast, nippy fish like tiger barbs will make a ram’s life miserable.

Biggest Mistake New Ram Cichlid Owners Make

Putting them in an uncycled or newly cycled tank. Rams need a mature, stable ecosystem. If your tank has been running less than two months, it is not ready for rams. Period.

Table of Contents

• Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid
• Classification
• Ram Cichlids Appearance
• How Big Are They?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament and Activity Level
• Tank Mates 
• Aquarium Requirements
• Breeding
• What do They Eat?
• Diseases
• Different Types
• 3 Main Sources
• FAQs
• Final Thoughts

Ram cichlids are beautiful, delicate, and unforgiving. They need pristine water, elevated temperatures, and rock solid stability. One parameter swing and they stop eating. Two and they are dead. I have watched experienced keepers lose rams because they treated them like any other dwarf cichlid. They are not. Rams demand precision, and they punish anything less. All commercially bred ram variants are weakened by hormone treatments and inbreeding. That makes them the most frequently killed dwarf cichlid by new keepers.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Ram Cichlid

The number one mistake I see with ram cichlids is people treating them like any other hardy tropical fish. They’re not. Rams are sensitive to water quality in ways that most beginner fish aren’t, and they absolutely need warm water. 80°F minimum, ideally 82-84°F. I’ve seen countless rams die within weeks of purchase because they were kept at 76-78°F in a standard community tank. The other common misconception is lumping all ram varieties together. German blue rams, Bolivian rams, and electric blue rams have meaningfully different care requirements, especially regarding temperature tolerance and hardiness.

German blue rams are one of the most visually stunning dwarf cichlids you can keep. And one of the most frequently killed by hobbyists who underestimate their water chemistry requirements. I’ve kept rams over the years and the pattern I see is always the same: someone buys them because they look incredible in the store, puts them in a standard community tank at 76°F, and loses them within a few weeks. Rams want warm, soft, slightly acidic water. 82 to 86°F is the sweet spot. Get that right, along with stable parameters, and they’re genuinely rewarding fish with real personality. This guide covers everything: care, compatible tank mates, and what it actually takes to breed them.

The Ram or dwarf Cichlid is a stunning and tranquil freshwater fish species that have been observed for over 30 years. They go by many names, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Blue ram, Butterfly ram, Ram ramirezi, and Dwarf cichlid. All these names lead to one beautiful fish species, belonging to the family Cichlidae and originating in South America, mostly in Amazon and Orinoco river extensions.

Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid

Classification

Ram Cichlids Appearance

Ram cichlid are small dwarf cichlids with large fins that overshadow their oval-shaped bodies.

Ram cichlid has vibrant reddish-orange, red and yellow spots all over their body with bright red eyes and a black band running through them. Due to their unique coloration and outstanding patterns, they make a great addition to your community aquarium. 

In ram cichlids, the male rams are larger in length and possess the biggest dorsal fin. Because of their flowy dorsal fins and colorful appearance, they are commonly called butterfly cichlids.

How Big Are They?

Ram cichlids fall under the dwarf cichlids category. Therefore, they can never grow larger than 2-3 inches in captivity. However, in the wild, Ram cichlids are known to reach a maximum of 7 to 8 inches in length.

Temperament and Activity Level

Ram cichlids are community tank fish with a peaceful nature. However, some types such as Bolivian rams can get semi-aggressive and territorial, when they feel their territories are being invaded. 

Ram cichlids are average swimmers and quick at hiding in their favorite spots to catch prey to eat. Therefore, an aquarium should be well-planted with lots of aquatic plants and hiding places such as driftwood, caves, rocks, etc.

Tank Mates 

No matter how agile and peaceful Ram cichlids are, you cannot keep them with any other fish. Here are the 15 most suitable tank mates for your ram cichlid.

• Guppies
• Platies
• Mollies
• Swordtails
• Dwarf Gourami
• Bristlenose Pleco
• Cory catfish
• Kuhli Loach
• Tetras
• Zebra Danio
• Discus fish
• Angelfish
• Rasboras
• Oto catfish
• Black ghost knife fish

Aquarium Requirements

Ram cichlids are very particular about their living environment. If the fish tank doesn’t meet all the requirements, ram cichlid can go into stress and eventually die. Therefore, it is imperative to take preventive measures and provide them with optimal conditions.

Tank Size

Even though ram cichlids are dwarf cichlids, they require plenty of swimming space. Therefore, go for a tank that is at least 20 gallons or more. It also depends on the number of fish you want to keep. If you’re aiming for more than one male, opt for a 29-gallon tank. One other reason to keep them in a large aquarium is they are highly sensitive to nitrates and prefer a gentle flow. So, more water and a larger tank ensure the maximum health of your rams. 

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Not just that, they appreciate regular water changes, and so I recommend installing a premium quality canister filter to raise a healthy ram cichlid.

Water Parameters 

One thing I can safely say about these cichlids is they don’t need a chiller, but a heater would suffice their needs.

Ram cichlids are tropical fish that thrive in warm water temperatures of around 78 to 85 °F. Therefore, I recommend installing a high-quality heater to provide them with the optimal temperature. Also, your rams will live happily if you create a natural environment for them. For this, fish experts suggest putting a fine substrate and plenty of plants with lots of hiding places in the form of rocks and caves for hiding or breeding. 

Tank Setup

A ram cichlid is very susceptible to certain chemicals and rapid changes in its environment. All these rapid changes and traces of chemicals can cause piscine (fish tuberculosis) which is fatal and inevitable if water quality is ignored.

As far as the lighting is concerned, a ram cichlid prefers dim lights. If you have plants, I recommend using adjustable LED lights, low light plants, or getting floating plants to provide them with suitable shade without affecting your plants.

Since ram cichlid are sensitive, make sure to check the levels of ammonia and nitrates in their tank and change the water weekly to ensure quality.

Breeding

To ensure the successful breeding of ram cichlid in their breeding season, make sure to provide soft water conditions by adding a small bag of rinsed peat to your canister filter. Also, make sure to keep the water pH neutral within recommended temperature range as ideal water conditions increase their activity level and improve the chances of breeding. 

In the natural habitat, a ram cichlid is a known open spawner, which means they create family groups and lay around 150 to 200 eggs approx.

Adult rams are difficult to pair with and costly as well. The cheaper and more effective way is to get juveniles and let them grow and pair together. Since they are monogamous pairs, I recommend keeping the breeding pair in a separate breeding tank for spawning.

Additionally, make sure to keep the water warmer in the breeding tank by around 2 to 3°F and more acidic with a slow water flow.

You can also feed the breeding pair with live food, such as blood worms, white worms, and brine shrimp as a treat once a day.

The Birth Process

Before keeping ram or dwarf cichlid, be informed that they do not lay eggs at all, if they are stressed during breeding. Rams only lay eggs when they are relaxed and devoid of other distractions. When their females are pregnant, their pink bellies become visibly fat and a female blue ram cichlid lay eggs under large, flat rocks and demands complete solitude. Hence, you need to to keep the pregnant female in a separate tank, no matter how peaceful they are.

Your tank setup and parameters should also be adjusted according to the liking of your breeding pair. The water should be of a neutral pH to slightly higher for optimal breeding and the temperature should be raised than the usual temperature which is around 77°F and 82°F. The warmer temperatures increase activity and improve the chances of successful breeding.

In cichlids, both mother and father fish raise the fry, which is unique for freshwater fish species. The fry rests in father ram’s mouth if they sense any potential danger and you should pay special attention to the fry because they is swept into the filter.

What do They Eat?

Feeding rams with high-quality food that is rich in protein is quintessential for successful breeding and raising healthy, happy rams.

Since ram cichlid is omnivorous, it relies on plants and meat. In their natural habitat, they feed on floating plants and small insects, larvae, and other invertebrates. 

However, seasoned aquarists recommend feeding them brine shrimp, earthworms, artemia, blood worms, tubifex, white worms, and cyclopeeze. But bear in mind that the live food should be free of contaminants like bacteria, fungus, etc to avoid diseases and other health-related issues.

I don’t recommend pellets and flakes on a daily. However, if you’re feeding them commercial food, make sure it sinks as butterfly cichlids are not surface dwellers. Also, incorporate plants and vegetables in their diet and feed them two to five small portions of meals several times a week. This also helps preserve the quality of water. 

If your butterfly cichlid is new to the tank, it will be timid at the feeding time and may completely refuse to eat as they settle in its new fish tank. To cater to this, isolate the fish and feed them with treats such as mosquito larvae and start establishing their regular diet.

Diseases

Like most fish, rams are also vulnerable to tropical fish diseases, especially to poor water quality and stress that weakens their immune system.

One common disease in ram cichlids is ich, which is treated by increasing the water temperature to 86ºF for three days.

The butterfly cichlids are also susceptible to: 

1. Parasitic infestations
2. Bacterial infections
3. Fungal infections
4. Tuberculosis
5. In addition to these, these fish species can also develop Costia diseases, flatworm, and tapeworm infestations.

Different Types

Among the plethora of strains of Ram cichlids, there are four common types that aquarists love.

German Blue Rams 

German blue ram cichlids are very popular among the aquarists because they are not only beautiful but docile and peaceful community tank fish. Like other ram cichlids, German blue rams are bred in captivity and are small fish around 2.5 inches with a calm personality.

German blue rams originate from the river basins of Orinoco, in the savannas of Venezuela, Colorado, and South America. The main body of a German blue ram cichlid is divided into three prominent colors mainly orange, gold, and turquoise blue. Additionally, there’s a black striped line on their face that covers their vivid orange eyes. The fins of German blue rams have blue mottling and a black dot on their midriff.

German blue rams live with other community tank fishes peacefully. However, they are territorial and aggressive fish, especially when other fish try to invade their territories. However, German blue rams are known to be good parents that do not abandon their fry hatch.

Bolivian

Bolivian Ram cichlids are the largest of all ram cichlids that can reach up to inches in length. They are also available in the wild.

They originate from the Amazon river basins, especially in Brazil and Bolivia. Hence, the name. They are found in slow-moving streams, rivers, lakes, and pools with densely populated vegetation that protects them from predators and provides them with food.

Bolivian rams demand larger tanks of no less than 30 gallons and the tank size is crucial to the health of this fish. They also love densely planted aquariums with an appropriate substrate so they can continue their regular foraging activities.

The bodies of Bolivian ram cichlids have a simple base, mainly yellow or golden. However, the most prominent feature of these ram cichlids is the red highlights along with their fins. Due to this, they are also known as the red ram cichlid.

Bolivian rams are popularly known for their sifting behavior as they love sifting through the substrate for food. The recommended diet of these ram cichlids should contain pellets, flakes, chopped brine shrimp, blood worms, earthworms, and other protein content. Seasoned aquarists discourage feeding them live food as it will contaminate the water and spread fatal infections.

Fun Fact: The scientific name of Bolivian Ram Cichlid is not Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, as it is a different species, known as Mikrogeophagus altispinosus.

Golden Ram Cichlids

Like German blue ram, gold rams are also dwarf cichlids that reach a maximum of 2.5 inches overall with a light golden body and electric blue mottling on the fin. The dorsal fin of gold rams is spiky and they have pale eyes with a black pupil. Out of the four ram cichlids, golden rams are the lesser known and like Bolivian Rams, they are also found in a natural habitat.

The Golden Ram cichlid originates from the Rio Orinoco drainage within Venezuela and Colombia and they are found in pairs.

Like most cichlid species, the golden ram is a wonderful, colorful, and peaceful fish that is suitable for a community aquarium. However, it becomes territorial sometimes. They require a lot of swimming space in a fish tank with ample plantations and hiding places. They are omnivorous, so should be fed a decent diet balanced with protein and occasional treats of live food.

Electric Blue

Electric blue rams (video source) are so much like their wild-caught cousins, but the differences lie in their coloration. The electric blue ram cichlids are radiant-blue in color with red patches around their body. Their eyes are orangish yellow along the forehead and that’s the most beautiful feature of electric blue rams.

The electric blue ram cichlids are popular in the aquarium trade since 2009 with their ovoid body and long spiky fins like blue rams. Unlike other dwarf cichlids, the electric blue rams are not suitable for beginners as they are more sensitive than other cichlid species.

Also, an electric blue ram is a very shy fish that hides in caves, rocks, or other hiding places when they feel bullied or threatened. 

3 Main Sources

If you want a Ram fish for your aquarium, you can source it from:

1. Local breeders or tradeshows
2. Overseas fish farms
3. Domestic fish farms (from your own country; from Florida)

There are many fish stores that sell Ram cichlid. However, these cichlids will most likely be imported from overseas. Imported cichlids will appear brighter with longer fins, but sometimes, they are artificially boosted by several hormones to enhance their vibrancy and overall appearance. However, the use of such hormones may adversely affect the life span of your cichlids.

If you wish to get a Ram Cichlid from domestic farms, be informed that they are mostly bred in Florida. It is better to get your Ram cichlids from domestic farms than an overseas farm, as they are in a much better condition.

But I recommend getting your aquarium buddies from a local breeder since they are kept in water conditions and environments similar to yours. Hence, they live and thrive in your home aquariums.

How to Pick a Healthy Fish?

So, you’ve made a decision to bring home a Ram cichlid? Great. But you should know how to pick a healthy one to avoid hazards.

1. Select a healthy-looking, active ram cichlid that eats and swims well
2. Pick the ones that compete with other rams for a great spawning site
3. Avoid choosing skinny or shrunken rams with a hollow belly

If you’re looking for a breeding pair, aquarium breeders suggest getting a colorful make with extended dorsal fins and great pectoral fins. And if you find the female already paired with the male ram cichlid, get them; as there are higher chances of successful breeding. 

How to Distinguish between Male and Female?

To distinguish between a male and female ram cichlid, always remember:

1. Females have tiny, bright blue dots inside their black spots on the sides of their bodies
2. Males lack these dots on their black spots.

FAQs

Is the Ram Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

• Ideal if you want a stunning dwarf cichlid centerpiece. Few freshwater fish match the color and personality of a healthy ram cichlid.
• Not recommended for brand-new fishkeepers. Their sensitivity to water quality and temperature makes them a poor first fish.
• Great for planted tanks. Rams thrive in well-planted setups and won’t destroy your plants like larger cichlids will.
• Skip if you can’t maintain stable warm temperatures. If your tank regularly drops below 80°F, rams will struggle and eventually get sick.
• Good for experienced community keepers. They work well with small tetras, corydoras, and other peaceful species in a warm tank.
• Consider a Bolivian ram instead if you want something hardier. Bolivians tolerate cooler water and wider parameters while offering similar personality.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Ram Cichlid

This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

They are surprisingly interactive. Rams will learn your feeding schedule and come to the front glass when they see you. They pick through substrate constantly, rearrange small decorations, and display for each other throughout the day.

Breeding behavior takes over the tank. When a pair bonds and starts breeding, they become intensely territorial and will chase everything away from their chosen spawning site. A peaceful tank becomes a war zone overnight.

They color up dramatically under the right conditions. A ram in a bare, stressed-out pet store tank looks nothing like a ram in a planted, warm, dimly lit aquarium. The transformation is one of the most dramatic in freshwater fishkeeping.

They have a hierarchy. In groups, rams establish a clear pecking order. The dominant pair gets the best territory, and subordinates get pushed to the edges. You need enough space and hiding spots to make this work.

How the Ram Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

The most common comparison is between the ram cichlid (German blue ram) and the Bolivian ram. Having kept both extensively, I can tell you they’re different fish in almost every way that matters for daily care. German blue rams need water at 82-84°F, soft and acidic conditions, and pristine water quality. Bolivian rams are comfortable at 72-79°F, tolerate a wider pH range, and forgive the occasional missed water change. If you’re newer to fishkeeping or run a cooler community tank, the Bolivian ram is the smarter choice. German blue rams are more colorful, but that beauty comes with a higher maintenance cost.

The apistogramma genus is the other natural comparison for anyone shopping dwarf cichlids. Apistos offer incredible variety. There are hundreds of species and color forms. And many are hardier than German blue rams. They are more territorial during breeding but less demanding on temperature. If you want a dwarf cichlid that gives you breeding behavior and personality without the temperature sensitivity of a German blue ram, a hardy apisto species like A. Cacatuoides is worth considering.

Final Thoughts

Rams do not give second chances. Your tank is either perfect or they die.

Ram cichlids are very small fish around 2-3 inches in length. Despite their size, they require immaculate attention and care. Therefore, make sure to provide at least 20 gallons tank with lots of hiding places and aquatic plants to raise healthy and happy rams.

South American Cichlid Species Directory

This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

Table of Contents

• Why Chili Rasboras Do Not Look Good in Most Tanks
• What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Chili Rasbora
• Expert Take
• Species Overview
• Classification
• Origins and Habitat
• What Do They Look Like?
• How Big Are They?
• How Long Do They Live?
• Temperament And Activity Level
• What Are Good Tank Mates?
• What Do They Eat?
• Setting Up Your Fish Tank
• Water Quality
• Aquarium Maintenance
• Breeding
• Where To Buy
• FAQs
• Is the Chili Rasbora Right for You?
• What It Is Actually Like Keeping Chili Rasboras
• How the Chili Rasbora Compares to Similar Species
• Final Thoughts

Chili rasboras are one of the most beautiful nano fish you can keep. But in the wrong setup, they disappear completely and never show their true color. I have seen people buy a school of 12, add them to a bright, bare tank, and wonder why they never see them. The fish are there. They are just hiding, stressed, and washed out. Build the right tank and chili rasboras are breathtaking. Skip the setup work and you have invisible fish you paid premium prices for.

Do not add chili rasboras to a tank that has been running for less than three months. They need mature water. Period.

Why Chili Rasboras Do Not Look Good in Most Tanks

Most people who buy chili rasboras never see the fish at their best. The problem is almost always the setup, not the fish.

Too few fish. Keep fewer than 10 and they hide constantly. Their confidence comes from numbers. A school of 6 looks terrible. A school of 15 transforms the tank.

Too much light. Bright lighting washes out their red. They look best under moderate or diffused light with a dark substrate underneath.

Not enough plants. Without dense planting they have nowhere to feel safe. They retreat to corners and you never see their natural swimming behavior.

Wrong tank mates. Anything bigger than 2 inches makes them nervous. They need dedicated nano setups or very carefully chosen companions.

Chili rasboras do not stand out. They come alive when the tank is built around them.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Chili Rasbora

The most common mistake I see with chili rasboras is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Chili Rasboras look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, chili rasboras are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything. In my experience, keeping them closer to their natural soft, slightly acidic conditions brings out the best color and longevity.

Expert Take

Never keep chili rasboras in groups smaller than 10. The commonly recommended minimum of 6 is not enough. In my experience, 10 is where they start acting like chili rasboras instead of acting like scared fish hiding behind a filter.

Species Overview

Classification

Origins and Habitat

Chili rasboras are native to Borneo in Southeast Asia. Their natural habitat consists of pools in blackwater streams with extremely soft, and quite acidic water.

The water is often full of aquatic and floating plants and partially shaded by the forest trees above. Plenty of leaf litter accumulates in the water and stains it a dark color, creating quite a dim environment.

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is the most popular of a few closely related Boraras species. If the word ‘boraras’ sounds a little fishy, that’s because it’s an anagram of the word r-a-s-b-o-r-a. Who says fish scientists aren’t fun?

What Do They Look Like?

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is a tiny nano fish with bold looks. The first impression when seeing this species is a very small, reddish fish with bold markings and huge eyes.

The males have deeper color but are smaller and more slender than the females, which also have rounder bellies. Dominant male chili rasboras become especially colorful, turning a deep red shade.

There is a characteristic black stripe on the sides of the fish’s body which can shine blueish green in good light. Just above this black stripe, you’ll notice a bright red or orange line.

Another stand-out feature is the red patch on the fish’s gill plate. This makes these nano schooling fish look like they have rosy cheeks!

To top it off, chili rasboras have great-looking fins. The base of their tail, and their dorsal and anal fins also have black and orange spots and markings.

How Big Are They?

If you thought something like a neon tetra or a guppy was small, just wait until you meet the chili rasbora! Chili rasboras are one of the smallest fish in the hobby, maxing out at less than an inch in total length.

In fact, a full-grown adult will only reach about 0.8 inches with good care. The male chili rasbora is slightly smaller and slimmer in build than the female.

How Long Do They Live?

Chili rasboras have a surprisingly long lifespan for such a small fish. In the right conditions, these hardy fish can live for up to 8 years!

To keep your fish living longer, make sure you provide them with a healthy and varied diet, a comfortable tank setup, and perform regular maintenance to keep your water quality pristine.

Temperament And Activity Level

The chili rasbora is a pretty outgoing and confident little fish if kept in the right kind of tank setup. With larger fish as tank mates, however, chili rasboras are timid.

They spend most of their time up around the middle and top levels of the aquarium, but they show up just about anywhere too. The chili rasbora is known as a schooling fish and they are very social, although they do not always group tightly.

Chili rasboras are very peaceful fish, so you don’t need to worry about them picking on any other fish in a community tank.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

The chili rasbora is a tiny fish, which can make choosing suitable tank mates a little challenging. Many fish keepers prefer to keep chili rasboras in species-only aquariums because they work so great in schools in nano tanks.

These fish will get along with most other peaceful fish, however, as long as they are not big enough to eat your rasboras.

Read on to learn more about the best (and worst) tank mates for chili rasboras.

Best Tank Mates

The best tank mates for chili rasboras are other peaceful nano fish. Let’s take a look at some of the best tank mates for these amazing fish:

• Harlequin rasbora
• Otocinclus catfish
• Pygmy corydoras
• Rams
• Dwarf pencilfish
• Betta fish
• Sparkling gourami
• Zebra danios

Least Compatible Fish

Chili rasboras are so small that many of the most popular tropical aquarium fish will likely swallow them whole. As a general rule, avoid keeping them, with anything over about 2.5 inches long.

You’ll also want to avoid any predatory fish, aggressive fin-nippers, and boisterous species that could outcompete them for food.

Here are a few common aquarium fish that will not make good tank mates for chili rasboras:

• Cichlids, except for rams
• Most catfish
• Angelfish
• Goldfish
• Golden wonder killifish
• Tiger barbs
• Oscars

Inverts

The chili rasbora is one of the safest fish to keep with dwarf shrimp. That being said, they are micro-predators so they will feed on tiny baby shrimp that have just hatched. If you plan on breeding your shrimp, a shrimp-only setup would be wiser.

Here are some shrimp that you can keep with the chili rasbora:

• Cherry shrimp
• Crystal red shrimp
• Amano shrimp

You can also keep snails with your chili rasboras. Snails do a terrific job of keeping an aquarium clean, but some species can really multiply fast. Nerite snails are a great choice because they look amazing, eliminate algae, and best of all, they won’t breed in your fish tank!

What Do They Eat?

The Chili rasbora is a micro predator that feeds on tiny insects and bugs. The name mosquito rasbora is probably a good clue as to what these tiny fish love to feed on in nature.

Think small when looking for food for these fish. They will do great on a diet of fish flakes and nano pellets, but supplementing with live/frozen foods will bring out the best condition and color in these nano fish. A good micro pellet formula is Xtreme Aquatics Foods Nano.

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Let’s take a look at some of the types of food you can feed the chili rasbora:

Prepared Foods

• Crushed flakes
• Micro pellets

Live & Frozen Foods

• Daphnia
• Tubifex
• Chopped bloodworms
• White worms
• Micro worms
• Mosquito larvae
• Baby brine shrimp

How Much And How Often To Feed Your Fish

Chili rasboras need to be fed regularly, at least once a day. It is better to feed these tiny fish small amounts two or three times a day, however.

The chili rasbora is often kept in nano tanks as small as 5 gallons, but this makes overfeeding especially dangerous. A bunch of uneaten food in such a small volume of water can cause dangerous ammonia spikes.

So how do you know how much to feed your fish?

When you go to feed your chili rasboras, watch them eat- they should finish all the food in just a minute or two. Feeding them this amount 2 or 3 times a day is a great way to keep your fish well-fed, without creating too much waste.

Setting Up Your Fish Tank

The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is right at home in a nano tank. They do best in a planted tank with a dark substrate and low water flow. Chili rasboras love live plants, and floating types are a great choice.

Read on to learn more about how to set up a great chili rasbora tank!

Tank Size

The chili rasbora is one of the smallest freshwater fish in the aquarium trade, so they make a great choice for fish keepers who don’t have a lot of space.

A small group of these nano fish can thrive in tanks as small as 5 gallons. This would be the minimum tank size, however, and if you’re new to fish keeping, I’d recommend a larger tank like a 10 or 15-gallon.

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Remember, the smaller an aquarium, the faster things can go wrong, so go slightly bigger to be on the safe side. A ten-gallon tank, for example, will be easier to maintain and allow you to keep an awesome little school of about 20 of these fish quite safely.

Plants

Chili rasboras do really well in a planted aquarium. Not only will your fish feel more at home between the leaves and roots, but live plants also have a number of great benefits when it comes to maintaining the high water quality these fish need.

If you’re not already a planted tank enthusiast, consider picking up some common and easy to grow species like:

• Cryptocorynes
• Anubias
• Amazon Sword
• Java fern

These aquarium plants don’t need much maintenance and they won’t take over your tank too fast. Down the road you can look at improving your lighting, picking up some aquascaping tools, and investing in a CO2 injection system. I must warn you though, that the planted aquarium hobby can be addictive!

Go ahead and browse through some of the great plant care articles on this website to learn more about specific species and their care.

Substrate

Chili rasboras look (and feel) their best when kept over a dark substrate. You can use a fine gravel or sand substrate as long as it is well rinsed and aquarium safe. If you plan on setting up a heavily planted tank, an aquarium soil would be a great option.

Decor

Chili rasboras like plenty of structure in their environment where they can hide out from predators. Fine driftwood like spider wood is great because it mimics the tangled roots and branches these fish are used to in their natural habitat.

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Water Quality

The chili rasbora is actually really adaptable to a wide range of parameters, but they do require good water quality. They should never be added to an uncycled aquarium or kept in a tank with unstable or poor water quality. Consider doing a fishless cycle to make sure you start on the right foot.

Filtration

Filtration is vital because the chili rasbora requires, stable, high-quality water with zero nitrites and ammonia. This means your aquarium needs to be cycled before you introduce your fish.

If you’re not sure how to cycle a new aquarium, go ahead and check out my article on aquarium cycling to learn everything you need to know about this vital step!

The type of filter you choose is not that important as long as it is a good size for your tank. The most important factor to consider is that chili rasboras are tiny and they will get blown around in a strong current. They can also be sucked into strong filter intakes, so you might want to choose a model that has a prefilter sponge.

Water Parameters

The chili rasbora prefers a water temperature anywhere between 70°F and 82°F, with something around the middle of this range probably being ideal. Use a heater to keep the temperature stable in your tank.

These fish prefer soft water that is slightly acidic. Aim for the following parameters:

• pH: 4-7
• GH: 1-2
• KH: 3-12dKH

The chili rasbora needs really good water quality in order to thrive. Your water test results should always read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and less than 20 ppm nitrates.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is the only way to keep nano tanks clean and safe for your fish. Performing a partial water change of 20-30% per week is a good way to keep nitrate levels in a safe range.

Be sure to remove any dead or dying plant matter, and suck up the dirt and waste that accumulates on your substrate with a gravel vacuum. If necessary, you can also rinse out your filter sponge media in the water you have just taken out of the tank. Remember to look after those precious beneficial bacteria!

Your tap water probably contains chemicals like chlorine or chloramine that are added to keep the water safe for human use. Unfortunately, these chemicals are toxic to fish, so make sure you use a water conditioner to neutralize the harmful effects.

Testing

The only way to know for sure if your maintenance schedule is appropriate is to test your aquarium water. Get yourself a test kit that can measure the following parameters:

• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• pH
• GH
• KH

Test kits are really easy (and fun) to use. They work either by adding a drop of solution to some aquarium water in a test tube or by simply dipping a strip into your tank. All you need to do next is watch for the solution or strip to change color, and compare the results with the provided chart.

You should test your aquarium water before introducing your fish. This way you will know what your pH and water hardness are out of the tap.

If your tap water pH and hardness are too high, you need to use rainwater or RO water in your tank. Avoid using distilled water that is not remineralized.

Breeding

Breeding rasboras at home is a fun hobby that anyone can do with the right knowledge. Building up a big school can be a slow process, however, because these tiny fish only lay a few eggs at a time. Here is a wonderful video above by Mark’s Aquatics that goes into great detail. I have a few summary points below. Here’s what you need to know:

Sexing

Before you can breed these fish, you’ll need to make sure you have both males and females. The female chili rasbora grows a little larger than the males and will also have a rounder belly. Dominant male chili rasboras will turn a bright and deep shade of red.

How They Breed

The chili rasbora is an egg-scattering fish that doesn’t show any parental care. This means they won’t look after their eggs or fry. If your fish are happy in their tank and in good condition, they will start breeding on their own and you might even spot some babies after a while.

If you want to breed this species in a more controlled way, you’re going to want to set up a separate breeding tank. The breeding tank only needs to hold 3 gallons or so, and a small sponge filter will work great for aerating the water and maintaining water quality.

Conditioning And Breeding Your Fish

Start by feeding your fish high-quality foods like micro worms and brine shrimp for a few days to bring them into peak condition.

Next, add some well-conditioned adults to your breeding tank and if they are happy, the female chili rasbora should lay eggs after a day or so. Remove the breeding fish and the eggs will start to hatch after about 2 days.

Raising Fry

Chili rasbora fry need to be fed from their second day after hatching. Feed them infusoria. The fry are very small after hatching, so wait at least a week before doing a water change to avoid sucking them up by accident.

Health & Disease

The chili rasbora is known to be hardy fish, but like any species, they are susceptible to various health problems. Read on to learn how to evaluate your fish’s health, and which problems to look out for.

Evaluating Your Their Health

Whether you’re picking out fish down at your local fish store, or just keeping an eye on the health of your pets at home, knowing what to look out for is really important. Healthy chili rasboras are:

• Active
• Colorful
• Able to swim right side up, without floating or sinking

Unhealthy chili rasboras can show the following warning signs:

• Rapid breathing
• Floating, sinking, or swimming upside down
• Flashing and rubbing their sides on the substrate
• White spots on the body
• Bulging eyes
• White stringy feces
• Bloating

Common Health Issues And Treatment

Aquarium fish can get sick for a number of reasons. The most common causes are infections from fungi, bacteria, viruses, and parasites. They can also suffer from physical injuries of course.

Infections can come in with new fish or plants, so it’s important to quarantine before adding them to your tank. Fish that are comfortable in their environment have a much smaller chance of getting sick than fish that are under stress, so always look for the root cause when any fish gets ill.

Here are some possible health issues (and their treatment) that your chili rasboras could develop:

• Ich. Treat with medication or salt
• Columnaris- Treat with antibiotics, medication, or salt
• Fin rot. Treat with antibiotics or salt
• Pop-eye- Treat with Epsom salts

Whenever you are unsure, check my post about fish diseases and consult a veterinarian for more advice. A best practice is to quarantine your fish prior to putting them into a display tank. It’s more common with saltwater tanks, but it is also done in freshwater tanks, especially planted aquariums.

Where To Buy

Chili rasboras are popular fish that are available from many local pet and fish stores. There are a few very similar-looking species in the hobby though, so make sure you’re getting genuine chili/mosquito rasboras.

If you can’t find any chili rasboras locally, or just prefer the convenience of online shopping, these fish are available from a number of trusted online retailers.

FAQs

Is the Chili Rasbora Right for You?

Before you add a chili rasbora to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

• You have a mature, cycled tank that has been running for at least three months.
• You are willing to keep a school of at least 10. Fewer than that and they hide.
• You have a planted nano tank with moderate or dim lighting and dark substrate.
• You are not planning to keep them with anything larger than 2 inches.
• You are comfortable feeding micro foods like crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp.
• You enjoy slow payoff. The best color takes weeks to develop in the right conditions.
• You can commit to stable water parameters. These fish do not tolerate swings.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the chili rasbora is worth serious consideration. If several do not, choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to force it.

Avoid If:

• You want a fish visible from across the room – chili rasboras are 0.7 inch (1.8 cm) fish that reward close viewing in nano setups, not large tanks
• You keep any fish larger than a small nano tetra – even medium community fish intimidate chili rasboras into permanent hiding
• You do not have a mature, heavily planted nano tank – they do not adapt to new or sparsely decorated setups

What It Is Actually Like Keeping Chili Rasboras

You will not see them at first. For the first week they hide in plants and you will wonder if they are still alive. This is normal. Give them time.

The color builds slowly. They do not look like the photos on day one. In mature, tannin-stained water with dim lighting, the red deepens over weeks. In clean, bright water, they stay pale.

They school tighter when they feel safe. A stressed group scatters. A confident group moves together in a way that makes the entire tank look alive. That only happens in the right conditions.

Feeding is a challenge. They have tiny mouths. Standard flake food is too big. You need crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp. If you are not feeding them properly, they are slowly starving.

How the Chili Rasbora Compares to Similar Species

Chili Rasbora vs Ember Tetra

Want a subtle, refined aquascape fish that rewards patience and perfect conditions? Chili rasbora. Want a visible, forgiving nano fish that shows color from day one without any special setup? Ember tetra. If you are not willing to build the tank around the fish, get the ember tetra. It will look better in a generic setup every single time.

The chili rasbora occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby. The most common question people ask is whether they should choose the chili rasbora or something similar that is more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you are keeping. If your setup matches what the chili rasbora needs, nothing else compares. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

Chili rasboras in a bright, bare tank are pale ghosts. In a blackwater nano with leaf litter and dim light, they turn into the most intense red nano fish in the hobby.

Chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae) are one of the smallest tropical fish in the hobby. These stunning little fish are the perfect choice for fishkeepers who want a large number of fish but don’t have much room. Follow the tips in this guide to set up a great tank for your chili rasboras, and keep them happy and healthy.

Do you keep chili rasboras in your fish room? Tell us about your nano setup in the comments below!

This article is part of our Rasbora Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

Recommended Video

Check out our rasbora video where we cover the most popular rasboras in the hobby:

This guide is part of our Rasboras & Danios: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular rasbora and danio species.

Angelfish tank mates are one of those topics where I see people make the same mistake over and over: forgetting that angels are cichlids. I’ve kept angelfish in community tanks for decades, and the wrong tank mates can bring out real aggression. especially as the fish mature. These 15 picks are the ones I’d actually trust in an angelfish community, with honest notes on what to watch for.

Angelfish are cichlids. and a lot of hobbyists forget that when they’re stocking a community tank. They’re generally peaceful, but they will eat smaller fish as they grow, and a breeding pair can become surprisingly territorial. I’ve seen neon tetras disappear overnight once angelfish in the same tank hit 3 inches. The tank mates that work best are mid-to-large tetras, corydoras, peaceful gouramis, and other similarly-sized community fish. This guide covers 15 species that consistently coexist well with angelfish, and 4 that I’d avoid based on experience.

Choosing Angelfish Tank Mates- What You Need To Know

Putting together a peaceful community aquarium can be a bit of a juggling act. You need to make sure every fish in the tank will be happy and get along. Angelfish make the perfect centerpiece fish for tropical community tanks, and it’s a good idea to start by building the tank around their needs.

In my experience managing aquarium stores, angelfish tank mate questions are among the most common I fielded — and the most common source of preventable losses. What works depends heavily on individual fish temperament, which is why a backup plan matters as much as a stocking list.

All you need to do then is make sure that all the other fish are compatible with your angelfish and the conditions it prefers. Before we move on to some great angelfish tank mates, let’s take a few minutes to get to know the star of the show!

Temperament

Angelfish are very peaceful as far as cichlids go. If you have a breeding pair, expect them to become a little more aggressive, however, especially with their own species. Angelfish will also defend their nest site against any intruders after breeding.

Size

Angelfish grow pretty large, so there isn’t a whole lot of common aquarium fish that can eat your angels. A standard angelfish can reach 6 inches in length and 8 inches from top to bottom, and altum angels grow even bigger!

Despite their size, angelfish have pretty small mouths compared with other cichlids. They are generally safe around smaller fish, but they will eat any fish small enough to swallow whole. Fish fry and very small nano species should not be kept with angelfish.

Competition

Angelfish are not the fastest-moving fish, but they can be pretty competitive around mealtimes. Avoid keeping fish that are too slow to get their fair share of the food. It is best to watch your fish closely to make sure no one is getting out-competed.

Feeding different areas of the tank simultaneously and using a combination of floating and sinking foods can be very helpful to spread out the competition.

Parameters & Aquarium Setup

Before you can choose suitable tank mates, it’s important to understand the needs of your angelfish. Angelfish are tropical freshwater fish that prefer water temperatures between 78 and 84°F. This is on the warmer side so it’s important that their tank mates are comfortable in the same temperatures.

Angelfish require good water quality, with zero ammonia or nitrite in the water. They prefer water with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, between 6.5 and 7.8. The water flow in the tank should be gentle because angelfish are not very strong swimmers.

The 15 Best

After reading about how to select tank mates for your angelfish, you’re probably very interested to learn about some great options! I’ve put together a list of 15 awesome compatible species to help you choose. Check out our video below from our YouTube channel. More detail is provided in the blog post below.

Even though each species on the list will make a great addition to your angelfish tank, make sure you pay attention to the following important information:

• Scientific Name
• Adult Size
• Water Temperature
• Minimum tank size
• Care Level
• Diet
• Origin
• Swimming Level

Now let’s get started!

Expert Take

I’ve kept and sold angelfish for over 25 years, and the stocking mistakes I see people make with them are remarkably consistent. Angelfish are the most misunderstood ‘beginner cichlid’ in the hobby. People add them to a community tank thinking they’re peaceful, then discover they’re ambush predators that will eat anything under 2 inches and will harass most fish once they’ve claimed territory. The key is size and speed — your tank mates need to be big enough to ignore and fast enough to escape. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

1. Corydoras Catfish

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
• Adult Size: 1-4 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons for most species
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Mostly bottom dwellers

Corydoras catfish, or cory cats as they are affectionately known, are awesome little bottom dwellers for tropical fish tanks. There are many different species to choose from in the aquarium hobby.

Corydoras catfish are social fish so make sure you pick up a group of at least 5 of the same species. They are incredibly peaceful little fish that will not bother your angelfish. The fact that they stay on the bottom means they will add another layer of interest and activity to your aquarium.

2. Ram Cichlids

Ease: 7/10 — Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 80-86°F
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: Venezuela, Brazil & Colombia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

Ram cichlids are an amazing dwarf cichlid with great colors. Unlike other South American cichlid species, these fish are peaceful and stay very small. Rams come in some amazing color varieties like electric blue and golden.

Ram cichlids are shy little fish that need pristine water quality. This means they aren’t a great choice for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will find these stunning fish make an awesome tank mate for their angelfish!

3. Molly Fish

Ease: 7/10 — Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops & Poecilia latipinna
• Adult Size: 3-5 inches
• Water Temperature: 68-82°F
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
• Origin: South, Central, & North America
• Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Molly fish can make great tank mates for your angelfish. These hardy fish are livebearers that will breed readily in your aquarium. The fry usually get snapped up pretty quickly in community tanks but ask for females only if you would prefer them to not breed.

There are many great types of molly fish in the hobby, including sail fins and balloon varieties. Mollies prefer higher pH than most other tropical fish species, so they should only be kept in tanks with a pH over 7.5.

4. Kribensis

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
• Adult Size: 3-4 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-81°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Origin: Nigeria, Cameroon
• Swimming Level: Bottom

The kribensis is a stunning cichlid from over the ocean in West Africa. These small fish are happy in the same water parameters as angelfish, making them an ideal tank mate.

Kribensis are dwarf cichlids that spend most of their time at the tank bottom. These fish have a peaceful nature but can be aggressive towards other members of their own species, so it is best to keep them in a pair.

5. Rosy Tetras

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

Rosy Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557793″/>

• Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon rosaceus
• Adult Size: 1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 75-82°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Carnivore
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Origin: Brazil, Suriname & Guyana
• Swimming Level: Mid-water

Rosy tetras are a little-known but awesome tropical aquarium fish. They are very small fish but they are safe to keep with larger angelfish because of their shape. It is best to keep 6 or more of these peaceful schooling fish in a community aquarium so that they can be more confident and behave naturally.

Hard Rule: Never add small tetras — neons, cardinals, embers — to a tank with adult angelfish. An adult angel can and will eat them whole. The rule applies even if you raised the angel with them as a juvenile.

6. Zebra Danios

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-78°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Carnivore
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Origin: India
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Zebra danios are another species that make great tank mates for freshwater angelfish. They will add more activity and excitement to your angelfish tank without bothering their tank mates.

They are hardy fish that get their common name from their black and white striped bodies. Zebra danio fish are lively little creatures that are very peaceful and easy to care for.

7. Cardinal Tetra

Ease: 7/10 — Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
• Adult Size: 0.75-1.25 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-84°F
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The cardinal tetra is one of the most colorful tropical aquarium fish in the hobby. Apart from their colors, the great thing about these tetra fish is how peaceful they are! A school of 6 or more would make ideal tank mates for your freshwater angelfish.

8. Bristle Nose Plecos

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
• Adult Size: 4-5 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-79 °F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Herbivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

Bristlenose plecos are really strange-looking bottom feeders that make one of the best angelfish tank mates. These bottom-dwelling fish hail from the Amazon river basin but have found a second home in aquariums all over the world.

Bristlenose plecos are very peaceful with other fish, but they should be the only member of their species unless you have a very large tank. There is also a Albino variety available.

9. Otocinclus Catfish

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 74-79°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Algae
• Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
• Origin: South America
• Swimming Level: All levels

Otocinclus catfish are amazing algae eaters that will help to keep your glass, hardscape, and plants clean. These hardworking tank cleaners look great too, and they can be very interesting to watch as they zoom around the tank looking for new feeding spots.

Otos need a good supply of algae to stay healthy, so make sure you wait until your tank is mature before introducing them.

10. Praecox Rainbow Fish

Ease: 7/10 — Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
• Adult Size: 2-3 inches
• Water Temperature: 73-82°F
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: New Guinea
• Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Rainbowfish are another great schooling fish that can really help to liven up your aquarium. The praecox rainbowfish is just one of many rainbowfish that make great angelfish tank mates.

Rainbowfish need great water quality but are otherwise easy to care for. They should be kept in groups of 6 or more to bring out the best of their colors and behaviors.

11. Harlequin Rasbora

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Adult Size: 1.25-1.75 inches
• Water Temperature: 70-82°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Carnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming Level: Midwater

These popular freshwater fish are recognizable by their bright orange color and the black triangular marking on their sides. They are very attractive fish that look amazing as they school together in the water column. Harlequin rasboras are very peaceful fish that add will vibrant color and activity to your angelfish community aquarium.

12. Cherry Barbs

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• Water Temperature: 68-80°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
• Origin: Sri Lanka
• Swimming Level: Midwater

Not all barb species make good tank mates for angelfish, but the peaceful cherry barb makes an excellent choice! These popular shoaling fish have a peaceful nature, making them a great community fish. Cherry barbs are a social species, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6.

13. Rummy Nose Tetras

Ease: 7/10 — Good choice with a few conditions to watch.

• Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
• Adult Size: 2 inches
• Water Temperature: 76-80°F
• Care Level: Moderate
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Origin: Amazon river basin, Brazil & Venezuela
• Swimming Level: Midwater, top

Rummy nose tetras are schooling fish that make great tank mates for angelfish. They are active community fish that should be kept in groups of ten or more to see them at their best. The rummy nose tetra needs excellent water quality to really thrive so good filtration and regular maintenance are very important.

14. Nerite Snails

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

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• Scientific Name: Neritina spp., Vittina spp., Clithon spp.
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• Water Temperature: 72-82°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Algae
• Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
• Origin: Africa & Asia
• Swimming Level: Bottom

If you’re looking for some excellent tank cleaners for your angelfish community setup, nerite snails could be a perfect choice. These harmless aquarium snails have beautiful shells and do an amazing job of eating pesky algae in the tank. One of the best things about these snails is that they can’t breed in freshwater, so you never have to worry about them becoming a pest!

15. Black Skirt Tetra

Ease: 9/10 — One of the safest choices for this tank setup.

• Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
• Adult Size: 2-2.4 inches
• Water Temperature: 68-78°F
• Care Level: Easy
• Diet: Omnivore
• Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
• Origin: Argentina, Bolivia, & Brazil
• Swimming Level: Midwater

The black skirt tetra is another peaceful species of schooling fish that works great with freshwater angelfish. These fish are also known as the black widow tetra but don’t worry, there’s nothing dangerous about them.

Black skirt tetras are active swimmers that should be kept in groups of 6 or more. They aren’t the most colorful tetras, but this can help draw attention to your centerpiece fish, the angels.

Bonus Tank Mates For Angelfish

The 15 peaceful fish in this list make awesome tank mates for freshwater angelfish, but there are many other options to choose from. Here are a few more popular species to consider:

• Keyhole cichlids
• Siamese algae eaters
• Dwarf gourami fish
• Discus fish
• Kuhli loach

4 Fish To Avoid

Now that you know 15 great tank mates for angelfish, let’s take a look at some common species that you should avoid:

1. Goldfish

The obvious problem with goldfish is that they are coldwater fish that prefer water that is 72°F or cooler. This is too cold for your angelfish, so the two species are not compatible. For the same reason, other coldwater fish like white cloud mountain minnows and dojo loaches do not make good angelfish tank mates.

2. Betta Fish

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Bettas are slow-moving fish with long flowing fins. Keeping them with angelfish is risky because they can be easy targets for aggressive individuals. Some fish keepers might have had success, but I would not recommend trying this combo.

3. Semi-aggressive Barbs

Some aggressive species of barbs are notorious fin nippers and will not make good tankmates for angelfish. Tiger barbs, including green tiger barbs and Glofish barbs, should not be added to your angelfish community.

Other potential fin-nipping species like zebra loaches and head and tail light tetras should also be avoided.

4. Freshwater Shrimp

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Angelfish will not think twice about snacking on freshwater shrimp. Some shrimp might survive in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding space, but you’ll probably see their population decreasing pretty steadily!

Angelfish Community Aquarium Setup

Setting up an awesome angelfish community tank could be as simple as introducing other fish to your existing aquarium. If you don’t already have an angelfish community tank, here’s what you need to know:

Introducing Aquarium Companions

It’s really important to have a backup plan in case your angelfish don’t get along with their new tank mates. At the end of the day, each fish has its own personality, and what works for a hundred other fish keepers might not work in your tank. I’ve seen this firsthand — pairs of angelfish that were model community fish in one display tank and absolute tyrants in another. The fish doesn’t change; the tank dynamics do.

I recommend setting up a small, inexpensive aquarium separate from your angelfish community tank. This tank only needs to be a few gallons, with a small filter and a heater. If war breaks out after you introduce tank mates, they can always be moved into this tank temporarily until you return them to the store or make another plan.

A tank like this has other great benefits too. New fish can be quarantined in this tank before going in with your angelfish to prevent spreading any diseases to your other fish. It will really come in handy down the line if any of your fish get sick and need a hospital tank.

If you have some issues with angelfish aggression, check out this video below by Hardyaquariums. His 5 tips are summarized below:

• Balance the number of males and females
• Buy dither fish for your angelfish to chase around (like Danios)
• Get a bigger aquarium that is tall
• Make hiding spaces for your angelfish for them to claim territory
• Feed your angelfish well – Well fed fish will not fight as much

Aquarium Size

Angelfish can be kept in tanks as small as 29 gallons. Some fish keepers even go as low as 20 gallons, but I would recommend going larger if you can. 55 gallons or larger will allow you the room to create a thriving and busy angelfish community with loads of amazing tropical tank mates.

One important thing to remember when picking out a tank is the angelfish body shape. These fish have really deep bodies that are taller than they are long. Tall tanks are therefore a better choice than long ones.

Heating

Angelfish prefer warm water between 78 and 84°F. You’re going to need an aquarium heater to maintain this temperature in your tank. Make sure the heater you buy is rated for the size of your aquarium.

I recommend using a thermometer if your heater does not have a display, this makes monitoring the water temperature in your tank much easier. Heater control is even better if it’s within your budget.

Filtration

Maintaining a healthy and beautiful angelfish community aquarium is almost impossible without good-quality filtration. There are so many different types of aquarium filters on the market, however, so which type should you choose?

Aquarium filters come in different sizes, but the amount of water the manufacturers claim they can filter is just a guideline really. I recommend opting for a slightly larger filter if it doesn’t take up too much room. Canister filters are ideal for this purpose because they can be kept out of sight in the cabinet under your tank.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice

The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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Hang on back and internal filters work great too, just make sure the filter isn’t producing too much current. Remember, angelfish aren’t very strong swimmers! A filter with an adjustable output is very useful for dialing in the perfect flow.

Aquarium Maintenance

Aquarium maintenance is very important for maintaining happy and healthy fish in your angelfish community tank. Here’s what you need to do:

• Use a test kit regularly to monitor your water parameters. Your nitrate levels should not go over about 30 parts per million, and ammonia and nitrite should always read zero.
• Remove any physical waste and uneaten fish food from the bottom of your tank with a gravel vacuum.
• Perform a partial water change 2-4 times per month to keep your nitrate levels safe.
• Follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter model, and rinse out the media when necessary.

Feeding

Angelfish are not that picky about their diet. These fish can be fed a staple diet of dried food like pellets (like Fluval Bug Bites) and freeze dried foods. Supplement this diet with frozen or live foods like brine shrimp and blanched veggies like zucchini for a complete and balanced diet.

My Pick

Fluval Bug Bites – Tropical Formula

Fluval bug bites tropical fish is an excellent staple food for most tropical fish. Made of black solider fly larvae

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Not all of the tank mates in this list will thrive on this diet so it’s important to cater to each species in the tank. Bottom dwellers like cory catfish, for example, should be given sinking pellets or tablets. Algae eaters like otocinclus catfish will need a steady diet of algae, but you can suppliment this algae wafers.

Avoid overfeeding your fish because uneaten food can spoil and cause dangerous ammonia spikes. Feeding your fish small amounts of food more than once a day is a good way to avoid this. Another good tip is to provide only enough food for the fish to finish in a minute or two.

Live Plants

Angelfish thrive in a heavily planted tank. Fortunately, so do all the other fish species on this list! Many fishkeepers think you need very deep pockets and a degree in botany to grow live aquarium plants, but it’s actually really easy to get started.

If you’ve never grown live plants before here are a few things to know:

• Plants need light to grow. Different species need different amounts of light, but there are many aquarium plants you can grow under regular aquarium lighting.
• Plants need nutrients. Different types of plants get their nutrients in different ways. Some types of plants can be grown without soil or substrate and get their nutrients from liquid fertilizers. Other types of plants need nutrients at their roots.
• Plants need carbon dioxide. All plants need CO2 to grow, but some species need more than others. If you want to get serious about growing plants, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 injection system. If you’re just starting out, choose low light, low CO2 plants.

You’ll find loads of great articles on caring for different plants on this website, go ahead and check them out. Growing live plants is fun, and your angels and their tank mates will thank you for it!

Substrate & Decorations

The substrate is the sand or gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. There are so many different types available that it can be hard to pick one! The color is up to you, but most aquarium fish seem to prefer darker colors.

Sand or gravel can work great, just make sure they are aquarium safe and that you wash them out thoroughly before setting up the tank. There are some great aquarium soils available for planted tanks. Avoid these unless you plan on growing a lot of plants.

Decorations can turn an average-looking fish tank into an amazing one. As with the substrate, you can use your creativity and decide whether to go for a natural look or create a unique scene. Again, its really important that anything you put into the tank is clean and aquarium-safe. Natural decor like driftwood or aquarium rocks are great if you want to try build to an aquascape style

Where To Buy

Most of the angelfish tank mates in this list are common species that are easy to find in most aquarium stores and pet shops. If you don’t have a decent local fish store where you live, you can always go ahead and order your fish online. Buying online will also give you access to rarer breeds.

Mark’s Pick: Bolivian rams or German blue rams. Similar water requirements, mid-level fish, and they coexist well because angels and rams don’t compete for the same space or food zone.

FAQS

Who Is This Setup Right For?

Good Fit If:

• You have a tall 55+ gallon tank with plenty of vertical swimming space
• You want larger, peaceful mid-water companions that won’t compete with angels
• You’re keeping South American biotope fish that share the same water parameters (pH 6.5–7.0)
• You want an active centerpiece fish with companion species rather than a species-only tank

Avoid If:

• You have small tetras under 2 inches — adult angels will eat them
• Your tank is under 40 gallons — territorial disputes become unavoidable
• You want fin-nippy species like barbs — they’ll shred the angel’s long fins
• You plan to keep multiple male angels — they pair and become extremely territorial when breeding

Final Thoughts

Angelfish are easily one of the most beautiful species for freshwater aquariums and they make great community fish too. With the right tank mates and knowledge, any fishkeeper can create a thriving tropical community in their own home.

So what are you waiting for? Go ahead and start planning your own angelfish community today!

Do you have an angelfish community tank? Tell us about your favorite angelfish tank mates in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.