Tag: Fishkeeping

Axolotls are genuinely affordable to buy — you can find a common leucistic for $20–$40 from a reputable breeder. The part that catches new keepers off guard is the setup cost, specifically temperature. Axolotls need water below 72°F, and in most homes that means a chiller, which runs $100–$200 or more. That’s the single biggest budget item most people don’t plan for. Factor in a properly sized tank, a good filter, and the right substrate (sand only — they’ll ingest gravel and it can kill them), and you’re looking at a real upfront investment before the animal even arrives. Here’s the complete cost breakdown so you’re not surprised.

What are axolotls?

Before digging further, let’s give a quick review of what actually axolotls are and how are they different from other salamanders.

Axolotls are amphibians. However, unlike salamanders, they spend most of their lives underwater. They are close relatives of Tiger salamander and range up to a foot in length. (quite a large size for salamanders)

They typically showcase mottled brown and black colors. However, in some rare and costly varieties, Albino and Leucistic axolotls display a translucent white color with shiny gold flecks and red or pink feathery gills.

How are they different from other salamanders?

Axolotls charm marine experts for their retention of features from the larval stage.

If you’ve seen tadpoles, you know what I’m talking about!

Amphibians; in general, go through a process called metamorphosis. It is a process in which an animal goes through certain developmental changes in the body structure. However, this process doesn’t apply to axolotls.

Axolotls, even in their adulthood retain their larval features including tadpole-like fins and external feathery gills.

One enticing thing about axolotls is that they take their regeneration to the next level. It would surprise you that axolotls cannot only regenerate tissues, but limbs, brains, spines, and even jaws!

How Much Do Axolotls cost?

The average cost of an axolotl doesn’t end with its purchase.

There are several other costs involved; the axolotl tank, accessories, delivery fees, recurring costs, monthly cost, yearly cost, and much more!

So, let’s go budgeting!

The Initial Cost

Axolotls are generally considered inexpensive exotic pets with an initial cost of around $30 to $100; that too for basic and juvenile axolotls.

The price, however, varies for exotic or adult axolotls. Depending on the rarity of morph and the health of the axolotl, rare axolotls like piebald axolotl cost around $100.

The adult Golden Albino axolotl costs around $45. Meanwhile, other varieties with exceptional pigmentations would cost you around $300 to $1500.

Shipping

If you’ve ordered your axolotl online through a reputable store, be sure to add a few bucks (say $40 to $60) as a flat rate of the shipping cost for each pet.

The Tank

So, this is where your actual expenses lie. An axolotl needs a larger tank than any other amphibian.

That’s because they spend their whole time underwater and the smallest tank you can accommodate for young axolotls is 10 gallons. 

For a mature axolotl tank, a standard 20 gallons aquarium would suffice.

However, it’s not just the tank that counts.

Since your smiling pets would be captive-bred animals, they would need ample lighting and filtration. Some pet stores offer various aquarium kits and ensembles that include LED lighting, filtration device and cartridges, heating devices, and other tank decors.

The overall tank setup would cost you somewhere between $100 to $300 approximately.

Recurring Costs

Lucky for you; axolotls are exclusively captive pets.

And on top of all that, they have exceptional regenerative abilities. It makes it easier to minus the health problems of axolotls and clinical attention.

However, I still recommend visiting the vet once a year to rule out any medical abnormalities in your pet.

Basically, the only recurring cost left is food.

Axolotls enjoy a protein-rich diet including brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms. Many novice keepers make the mistake to feed feeder fish and mice to their diet. I strongly discourage live or dead food as it may introduce bacterial and parasitic infections to the tank.

Hence, the annual recurring cost of grown-up axolotls that feed twice weekly is estimated to be around $50.

Medical Care

I have rarely seen an axolotl falling sick and dying of a fatal disease.

However, they are living beings and require regular medical upkeep. As a responsible axolotl owner, you should make a yearly visit to the vet to avoid deadly diseases or aliments.

Factors Affecting the Price of This Pet

No two axolotls are the same. And that applies to their cost as well. There are a number of factors that affect the axolotl price.

Morph Rarity

When it comes to axolotl price, it mostly depends on the rarity of color. There are some varieties that are extremely rare, and hence the fancy price tag. Meanwhile, the common and basic morphs are inexpensive and easily available in pet stores.

Age

Age is also an essential factor in determining the cost of an axolotl. Adult axolotls sell at a higher price than juveniles. That’s because mature axolotls are easy to care for and friendly.

Health Conditions

While visiting the pet store, you may encounter the same morph axolotls selling at a low cost than some others. That could be mainly because of their health conditions.

A healthy axolotl would retail at a much higher price than the ones in poor conditions.

I advise inspecting the axolotl before making your valuable purchase. An unhealthy axolotl will most likely be lethargic and unresponsive.

Breeder

The price also varies from breeder to breeder. Some breeders charge higher prices due to their reputation or brand name. Other breeders may charge nominal rates for a basic morph.

Requirements for the Tank

Like I said before, the prices for axolotls vary depending on their pigmentation and health. However, it’s the tank cost that makes the difference.

Along with a larger tank, axolotls require several other essentials to keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives.

I have prepared a thorough list for pet owners to guide through the proper requirements and estimated costs of an axolotl tank.

The Aquarium

Estimated cost: $25 – 100

Happy axolotls are the best.

And what keeps the axolotl happy is a long aquarium around 30 inches in length.

For your convenience, I would suggest a standard 20-gallon long tank for an adult axolotl that provides much room for movement. For the best price, you can consider buying a cheap one used or waiting for a local chain pet store’s dollar per gallon sale.

Also, axolotls prefer dim lights. And so, I encourage placing some type of hide in the aquarium for them to get shade.

Reptile Hide

Hides are common place in the reptile word. Excellent for creating a safe space for your reptiles and amphibians

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Filtration

Estimated Cost: Less than $100 – $150+

You can cut the cost of filtration only if you promise to change the water regularly. 

Yes, you can go cheap on filtration for axolotls if you are willing to do more water changes. However, I recommend installing canister filters in axolotl’s water tank.

You might wonder why.

Well, axolotls produce a lot of waste, which means a lot of ammonia. And they are extremely sensitive to poor water conditions. Therefore, installing a high quality filter would be the safest option.

Also, canister filters, although difficult to maintain, provide enough room for biomedia and gentle water flow to keep your pets healthy.

A good-quality canister filter usually costs less than $100 and lasts much longer than expected. Fluvals would be consider top-tier for a Axolotl tank, but you can do well with a budget canister like a Sun Sun.

Best Value

Fluval Canister Filters

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Substrates

Estimated Cost: $15 – $25

You have to be very finicky while choosing the substrate for axolotl.

Since axolotls have delicate skin, the hard or sharp substrate might cause potential injuries to your axolotl. The costs of substrate or aquarium sand should cost you no more than $10 or $15. 

Natural Fine Sand

I always recommend natural fine sand substrates for the axolotl aquariums. (with caution, of course)

If you choose natural sand substrates, make sure to avoid Calcium Carbonate sand as it might disrupt the pH levels of the tank.

Also, I recommend stirring the sand once in a while to help prevent the buildup of air gases and bacteria.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Rocks and Gravels

Always remember; the larger the rocks, the better!

Axolotls have delicate mouths, and they suck in their food.

If you use rocks that are too small, your axolotl will suffer from intestinal blockage and experience several health problems.

Also, rocks and gravels should be smooth-edged and rounded. For younger axolotls (under 6 inches/15 cm long), avoid using any rocks or substrate at all. 

Lighting

Estimated cost: less than $50

Fun fact: Axolotls do not have eyelids!

And so, strong lighting overwhelms them.

If you want to install lighting sources, always go for LED aquarium lights that are dimmable.

However, the best advice I can give you is to utilize natural lighting. Axolotls do not require lighting, nor does the tank. But, if you have live plants, you can always opt for Planted Tank LED lights that are adjustable.

This way, the tank also doesn’t heat up and water temperature is maintained throughout.

The lighting cost for an axolotl tank should cost you around $50 for a premium-quality, adjustable LED aquarium light.

Water Temperature & Chiller

Estimated Cost: $10 – $15

One thing that makes Axolotls challenging for beginners is their demand for optimal water temperatures.

The ideal water temperature for Axolotls ranges from 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, in some rare cases, they have adapted to water temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

According to experts, Axolotls show sluggish behavior below 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and higher temperatures might trigger serious diseases. Also, temperature fluctuations can be detrimental to your axolotl, as they are sensitive to them.

Therefore, in hotter climates, it is a challenge to maintain water temperature, an aquarium chiller should be installed to ensure water stays cool enough.

A fan costs around $10 and can work exceptionally well in keeping your tank water cool.

Aquarium Cooling Fan

Aquarium cooling fans are cheap and effective ways of pushing heat away from the aquarium

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Even in cooler climates, a heater for an axolotl tank is not needed as the temperatures rarely fall below the their preferred ranges. If needed, the LED lighting or natural source of light would provide enough heat to the tank. Having a lid on the aquarium will also keep heat inside

Decoration

Estimated Cost: Around $50

Axolotls appreciate decorations as much as other aquarium pets.

However, you have to be extra careful with the decors you choose for your smiling pet.

I always suggest live plants for axolotl tank as they like sitting on them. Low light plants like Java fern, , Java Moss, Eludia, Marimo moss ball, and floating plants like Amazon Frogbits, and Water Lettuce are some excellent options for axolotl.

Nevertheless, axolotls do great without live plants. If you want to adorn your tank, feel free to add fake (plastic) plants as they require zero maintenance and lighting.

Additionally, to offer some safe places to hide, you can invest in high-quality hides for the axolotl, such as Cichlid rocks or Ceramic pipes, dragon stones, river rocks. Rock structures are also a great addition to an axolotl aquarium, which costs around $50 each.

You can add absolutely anything, just make sure the edges of objects are not sharp to avoid injuries.

Water De-chlorinator

Estimated cost: $10

Water de-chlorinator is something that your axolotl would thank you for!

Axolotls make a lot of mess in their natural habitat and things are no different in the home aquariums. Therefore, the tap water needs to be de-chlorinated every now and then to make it axolotl-friendly.

I always recommend installing water de-chlorinators in your axolotl tanks.

They are cheap and readily available in the market and cost around $10 or so. I recommend Seachem Prime.

My Pick

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The Total Costs of Owning This Pet

Now that I’ve covered everything, let’s break all the expenses down for you.

The initial cost of an small axolotl is around $30 to $100, depending upon the breed and variation you opt for.

However, if you buy your axolotl online, it might cost you an additional $40 to $60 due to shipping and morphs (since online sellers tend to have better morphs).

For an adult, you need a large tank of around 20-gallons. This would cost you around $200 to $300 with all the required devices.

Lastly, the complete axolotl aquarium setup would cost you around $150 to $600 minus the food and water therapy.

Also, baby axolotl needs to eat more frequently than adults. But as they grow, they require less feeding and more maintenance. 

So, axolotls are amazing pets that are quite inexpensive as compared to other exotic pets. And the total cost you pay or spend on your smiling pals is worth every penny.

FAQS

The Chimera and Mosaic axolotls are only sold through specialized sellers. The Enigma axolotls are worth around $1500.

The piebald axolotl costs around $300. The Firefly and Lavender axolotl cost somewhere between $250 to $115 each.

Are they good pets?

Axolotls are interesting creatures.

They are hardy, always smiling, easy to look after, and easy to feed.

Just what an axolotl owner needs!

However, they might not be the best fit for novice keepers as there are a few things to consider;

1. Temperature for axolotls should be between 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything more or less than that may put your pet under stress
2. Since they have a sensitive mouth, the substrate or decors used should be of high quality and kept clean
3. They demand clean water filtration. Therefore, a high-quality filter is recommended

Final Thoughts

Now you know what it costs to own an axolotl.

Besides everything, make sure to keep the water clean, and water temperatures maintained for your walking fish to stay healthy and smiling. The price that starts from $30 may touch $600 or so after complete tank setup. So, I believe it’s not much to invest given the joy and how long these animals live.

Got any comments to share? Leave a comment below and let’s get a conversation going!

Axolotl tank mates are tricky for two reasons most guides gloss over. First, axolotls need cold water — ideally 60 to 68°F — which immediately eliminates virtually every tropical fish most hobbyists are familiar with. Second, those beautiful feathery external gills are irresistible to curious fish, and even mild nipping causes serious injury and chronic stress. I generally recommend keeping axolotls alone or with other axolotls of similar size; they do fine in a species-only setup and are interesting enough not to need company. But if you want tank mates, the options that actually work share two traits: they tolerate cold water and they have no interest in those gills. Here’s my honest rundown of what works and what causes problems.

Here’s what you need to know when considering tank mates for your Mexican walking fish.

Understanding Your Axolotl

An axolotl is a freshwater bottom-dwelling aquatic salamander that prefers to keep to itself. They do best when kept on their own in an aquarium with slow-moving water.

Despite being antisocial, axolotls are very peaceful creatures. They spend most of their time exploring the bottom of the tank at their own, slow pace. They are also nocturnal which means they will mostly come out at night when the aquarium lights are off.

Keep in mind that Axolotls are carnivores that like to hunt live food¹. This means that they may sneak up on resting fish and make a quick snack out of them. Generally, their slow-moving nature ensures the safety of other small fish.

Axolotls are cold water critters. Due to the temperature of the water being so low, it will be unsuitable for a large variety of other freshwater creatures.

What Makes a Good Mate for Your Fish?

If you’re considering upgrading your axolotl tank into a community aquarium, there are a few things to keep in mind. Axolotls usually thrive when kept in isolation. That said, you can try to keep them with other aquatic critters.

Not all fish are good tank mates for axolotls. Those that make the cut are generally peaceful fish that also keep to themselves. Another requirement is being adapted to cool water aquariums.

You might notice your axolotls having a go at their tank buddies, even if they can’t eat them. That’s why it’s important to choose critters that can’t fit into the axolotl’s mouth.

This brings us to the next point, the critters you keep need to be fast enough to escape. Axolotls will try to hunt any live fish and other critters in the same tank as them. If you’re having problems, rather keep your freshwater fish in separate aquariums.

Why Some Fish Aren’t Suitable

Some critters just aren’t suitable axolotl tank mates. Here’s why.

• Water temperature

Axolotls prefer cool water. That’s why you can’t add any tropical fish to their tanks. The water is simply too cold. You may need an aquarium chiller to keep the water cool in water climates.

• Temperament

Any aggressive or territorial fish is a bad idea. These creatures will harass your salamander and injure it in the process. Highly active swimmers also aren’t suitable. Their movements will stress your axolotl.

• Health risks

Some freshwater critters pose a health risk to your axolotls. Cory Catfish, for instance, have sharp spines on their pectoral and dorsal fins. These can injure your axolotl if it tries to eat them.

Small fish and mini snails can also be a choking hazard and can lead to impaction. Some critters also carry diseases.

• Direct competition

Other bottom-dwelling fish aren’t a good idea either. Bottom feeders are in direct competition for food. This means your axolotl might bully its tank buddies to get to the food.

If the other critters are very voracious eaters, they also won’t do. Axolotls eat slowly which means they won’t be able to compete for food with other bottom-dwelling fish.

How to Set Up A Community Aquarium

Setting up a community tank is quite simple. Here’s what you need to know:

Aquarium Setup

The minimum size for a one adult axolotl tank is 20 gallons. If you’re thinking of adding two adult axolotls to the same tank, this will be an added cost. You will need to jump to a 55-gallon tank for a pair of axolotls. Similarly, if you’re adding other fish or creatures, start with a minimum of 55 gallons. Bigger is always better, so if you have the space, go bigger.

Substrate

The best substrate for axolotl community tanks is sand since they like to dig. This gives the axolotl something to do instead of chasing the other community creatures around.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Water Parameters For The Aquarium

Axolotls have very specific needs when it comes to their tank water. Any tank mates you plan on adding should also have the same preferences. Take a look at the following axolotl water parameters to compare them to the requirements of the chosen tank mates.

• Water temperature: Cold water is a must, keep the temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature is between 60 and 64 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 18°C).
• pH: Axolotls prefer a pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for this species will be 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14dGH)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Filtration

It doesn’t matter if an axolotl is in its larval stage or already an adult, they all require a tank with good filtration and slow-moving water. Any tank mates chosen to join an axolotl aquarium should also be happy with this setup.

Axolotl owners usually prefer to use sponge filters in their aquariums. These filters can circulate a large amount of water in a short time without creating a lot of flow in the tank. This is absolutely essential for the messy axolotl.

Decor Considerations

Make sure there are enough hiding spots in your tank. Axolotls prefer to hide away from light. Other creatures in the aquarium will also need a place to relax where they don’t feel threatened by the axolotl. Add some driftwood, rocks, hides, or plants to your tank to create a range of hiding spots to choose from.

Lighting

Other fish may prefer tanks with lights. If this is the case, make sure the axolotl has a dark spot to hide in. It’s best to get tank mates that also prefer a dim interior for a happy community.

Before running to the pet store, make sure to do some research first. There are only a few fish that can be safely kept in the same tank as an axolotl. Even so, these communities are never without their risks. Here’s a list of some suitable tank mate options for your axolotl (And a video by yours truly for those who would rather watch).

Top 5 Axolotl Tank Mates

Let’s look at the best tankmates for these “walking fish.”

1. Other Types

Adult axolotls make great tank mates. It’s best to keep a male and female together, but you can also keep same-gender axolotls together if you don’t want any babies.

You can tell a male from a female axolotl by looking at the cloaca (opening under the tale). In males, the cloaca protrudes quite a bit while it sits nearly flat against the belly in females.

It’s best to not keep a smaller axolotl with a fully matured one. Don’t keep juvenile axolotls together either. They often display cannibalistic tendencies towards each other. Adults may even eat their larvae if given the chance.

If you see any reoccurring problems, it might be better to separate axolotls into different aquariums. One axolotl on its own is best.

2. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White cloud minnows are peaceful cool water fish that can make excellent tank mates for axolotls. Their lack of spines and shells makes them safe for axolotls to eat. Even though this might not be your goal, they will get chowed every now and again.

There is no real way to prevent your axolotls from hunting these fish, so you might want to consider keeping them in separate tanks. Fortunately, minnows are quite fast. They should be able to escape the axolotls unless caught off guard.

3. Guppy Fish

Guppies are another fish species that rarely pose a risk to your axolotls. Unlike the fast white cloud minnows, guppies will be eaten more often. They do sometimes carry diseases, however.

The babies of guppies are often used as feeder fishes. This means that owners intentionally provide these fish as a snack to their axolotls. Baby guppies are small enough to not pose a health risk when swallowed by juvenile axolotls.

Guppies, being livebearers, reproduce very fast. The sudden increase in fish numbers may stress your axolotl despite it having an easy snack.

4. Zebra Danios

Zebra Danios are also great peaceful cool-water fish to consider. They will keep to their shoals and mostly stay away from your axolotl. Again you might see your fish disappear every now and then. Fortunately, zebra danios are very agile fish so they might stand a chance in an axolotl aquarium.

Just because they can swim, however, doesn’t mean your axolotls won’t catch these danios off guard every once in a while.

5. Apple Snails (As adults)

Adult apple snails can safely be kept in the same aquarium as young axolotls. They aren’t small enough for your walking fish to eat. Baby cold water snails like juvenile bladder or ramshorn snails are also safe since they have soft shells.

Adult ramshorn and bladder snails are risky. They are small enough to swallow, but not soft enough to fully digest.

If you want to keep snails, avoid mini snails and stick to adult apple snails. Multi snails can also be risky as they can climb on your axolotl and suck off their slime coats.

Fish You Should AVOID

This list doesn’t include all the fish that are unsuitable for axolotl community tanks. The species here, are mentioned because they may seem to fit the description of the perfect tank mate, but they really aren’t. Keep an eye out for the following critters.

1. Goldfish

Many think goldfish are great tankmates for axolotls since they also like the cold. Unfortunately, that isn’t true of these freshwater fish. Goldfish have quite a bad reputation for being fin nippers. They also get big which makes harassing your beloved salamander easier.

Goldfish tend to nip at the fins and gills of the axolotl which causes stress and injury to your pet. They also produce a lot of waste which isn’t ideal when added to the mess axolotls already make.

The only goldfish varieties that may work in an Axolotl tank are fancy goldfish. These fish are just as slow as your Axolotl which gives it a chance to nip back. The goldfish will quickly learn to avoid the axolotl. They still pose a choking hazard when they are small, however, even more so due to how slow they are.

If you decide to use fancy goldfish with your axolotl, make sure to get a very large tank to accommodate the mess. If you don’t have the space, rather choose one of the suitable options mentioned above.

2. Cory Catfish

Cory catfish are very peaceful critters, but they aren’t good for axolotl tanks. These fish have sharp spines on their dorsal and pectoral fins that will injure your axolotl if it tries to swallow them. They are also bottom feeders which places them in direct competition with the bottom-dwelling axolotl.

3. Otocinclus Catfish

The otocinclus catfish is another fish that may seem completely harmless. Unfortunately, it also has spines like the cory catfish. The otocinclus also prefers fast-moving water and will zip around the aquarium at high speed. These are all characteristics that make it unsuitable as a tank mate for an Axolotl.

4. Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimps aren’t ideal for Axolotl aquariums, in fact, many owners use them as treats for their pets. Small shrimp may stand a chance if there’s sufficient plant cover to hide in. Most of the time, however, they will get gobbled up pretty fast.

Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium. They help to clean up any leftover food. This in turn helps to keep the parameters in your aquarium stable.

Both Amano shrimp and ghost shrimp make perfect snacks for axolotls. You will need to be okay with them being eaten while they keep the tank clean. Axolotls have an excellent sense of smell so these shrimps may not even be safe in dense plant cover.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit about axolotls and the creatures they may get along with, you can make an informed decision on whether or not you should go forward with this plan. Keep in mind that the risks do outweigh the benefits of having buddies in the same aquarium as your axolotls. Isolation is even preferred by these underwater salamanders.

If you have any questions regarding axolotls and the critters that can live with them, leave a comment below.

Breeding axolotls is more achievable than most keepers realize — the bigger challenge is what happens after they spawn. A healthy pair can produce hundreds of eggs, and once those hatch you’re dealing with tiny, hungry larvae that will cannibalize each other if you’re not careful. Juveniles need to be separated by size regularly, and you’ll need a plan for rehoming the ones you can’t keep (keeping in mind axolotls are illegal to own in some states). The breeding trigger itself is straightforward: drop the water temperature for a few weeks to simulate winter, then gradually warm it back up. Here’s the complete process from setup through raising babies to size.

Why Are Axolotls Special?

These critters have an amazing ability to fully regenerate missing limbs. For this reason, axolotls are being monitored in many labs to satisfy the curiosity of scientists. Along with lost limbs, they can also regrow other body parts such as the eyes, and even regenerate their spinal cords. This makes them very interesting due to the potential use this ability holds has in human medicine.

How Do They Breed?

Axolotls are egg-layers. The male and female will participate in a mating ritual when ready to breed. To start the courting process, the adult Axolotl male will nudge the hindquarters of the female to see if she is receptive to his advances. The video by Jules Askalotl provides an visual overview of the breeding process.

Once he establishes her willingness to participate, he’ll place himself in front of her and start to lead her around the aquarium. He’ll always make sure that his tail is touching her nose. As he leads her forward, he’ll deposit a packet of sperm known as a spermatophore.

The male will then lead the female over this packet until it lines up with her cloaca (vent or sexual organ). She then absorbs the sperm into her reproductive tract to fertilize her eggs. This process is referred to as indirect fertilization.

Over the next hour, the male will continue leading the female over several packets of sperm until the breeding process is complete. Once done, remove the male to allow the female some peace before the egg-laying starts.

The female will only lay her eggs around 12 to 72 hours later. Your Axolotl may lay up to 1500 eggs on the decor provided, so be prepared. Once the process is complete, make sure to either remove the eggs or the adults. These animals aren’t against eating their own eggs.

It’s also best to remove the breeding pair from community setups with other fish. Some fish will get stressed out by the erratic movements of the adult Axolotl pair during breeding.

What to Do When the Eggs Hatch

Axolotl eggs usually incubate for around 15 days before hatching if kept at 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C). The hatching will be delayed for a few days more in cooler water.

For optimal larvae growth, make sure to keep the water in the upper-temperature limit. It is also essential to keep the water quality pristine. Axolotl larvae kept in poor water conditions have very poor survival and growth rates.

This means that once the eggs start hatching, you’ll have your hands full with tank maintenance. You will need to do partial water changes every few days to keep the water clean while your baby Axolotls are growing. This is especially important if you have lots of them in one setup.

If you kept all your eggs in one place, you will need to separate your babies into several 20 gallon tanks once they are big enough to be moved. Make sure to not keep more than 100 babies in one place. It is possible to keep up to 200 young axolotls in one aquarium, but this may lead to several unnecessary injuries and even fatalities.

Aquariums with fewer offspring in them have fewer problems such as damaged fins or lost limbs and gills.

Feeding Requirements

Newly hatched Axolotls won’t start feeding immediately after hatching. They usually only need live foods around 48-72 hours after hatching. In the period between hatching and their first feeding, they will be sustained by the remaining egg yolk in their bellies. The yolk will be visible through the skin as a cream-colored mass.

During this time the young also won’t be moving. Don’t throw them out by accident because they seemed dead. Not moving is completely normal at this stage. You’ll see them start to wiggle around 2 to 3 days after they were born, this is your cue to start feeding them.

Baby axolotls aren’t the easiest to feed. These youngsters require small, live food items in large quantities to keep them sustained. Until the Axolotl larvae grow their front legs, they will also only respond to moving live foods.

Without their legs moving around is a bit challenging for them. This means that they won’t actively try to find food. Make sure to deposit the food in front of them to make sure they are eating. If you fail to provide the right food, they may start to eat each other.

Fortunately, unlike frogs, young Axolotls grow their front legs first. Until they reach this milestone, however, feed easily accessible live food such as newly hatched brine shrimp and daphnia. Once their front legs are developed, they will also have developed a sense of smell. This means it’s time to start introducing dead food items.

You can offer dead food items earlier, but you’ll need to use tweezers and wiggle them around to mimic the movement of live foods to entice your baby Axolotls to eat. This can be time-consuming, especially if you need to feed 1500 baby Axolotls. Rather stick to newly hatched brine shrimp and other foods that can wiggle around like daphnia.

What to Feed

Until a baby Axolotl grows its front limbs, you will be limited to only a few live food items. Here are some great snacks for your young pet:

• Newly hatched brine shrimp
• Daphnia
• Microworms
• Freshly chopped up blackworms (they wiggle for a long time after chopping)

Live Daphnia

Water fleas or Daphnia are an excellent live food offering for fish and fry

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Once the baby Axolotl developed its front legs, it will become more mobile and start to actively hunt. At this point, you can start to introduce some dead food items along with fast-moving live food. Here are a few options:

• Frozen brine shrimp
• Frozen bloodworms
• Live mosquito larvae
• Live brine shrimp
• Live bloodworms
• Earthworms

Once the baby axolotl grows its hind legs, it can be fed exactly the same as an adult with the exception of the frequency in feeding. Baby axolotls need a lot of food to grow. To keep them healthy, you will need to feed them at least twice a day.

Once these little amphibians have all their legs, you can also start to introduce foods such as Axolotl pellets to their diet. Also, make sure to feed a variety of live and dead food for optimal health and growth. If you can’t find pellet food specifically for Axolotls, you can try feeding others specifically meant for carnivorous fish.

When feeding your baby Axolotls, make sure not to overfeed. If that happens, the uneaten food will start to rot and affect your water quality. Make sure to remove any uneaten food. Next time feed just enough to make sure they can eat all of it in 5 minutes tops. If it’s not eaten, remove it.

Tank Setup

Just like adult Axolotls, babies also need a proper setup to stay healthy. Here’s what you need to know to set up a tank for axolotl babies (Egg picture source).

Tank Size

The minimum tank size requirement for Axolotl larvae is also 20 gallons. Unlike an adult that requires the whole 20 gallons to itself, you can keep up to 200 newly hatched axolotls in the same tank which isn’t that much of a cost.

Keeping that many larvae together, however, is not advised. It’s better to stick to around 100 baby Axolotls together in a tank. This lower number helps to avoid unnecessary death and lost legs.

Once the larvae develop their front legs, you’ll need to divide the colonies into smaller ones yet again. This means that you’ll need several 20-gallon tanks or a super large aquarium. Keep in mind that bigger is always better. More water means fresh water for longer periods between water changes.

For the breeding tank, use a 20-gallon tank. This leaves just enough space to prevent the female from refusing to participate in the mating ritual.

You can keep the eggs in a 10-gallon tank altogether until they hatch. After that, make sure to divide the larvae into smaller communities or transfer them to a larger aquarium.

Water Parameters

Baby Axolotls are a bit more sensitive to water parameters than adults. For this reason, you need to be more vigilant when it comes to aquarium maintenance. Since you’re keeping several larvae in the same tank, you’ll also need to do more water changes to keep the water clean.

Skipping a water change can lead to water quality problems which in turn causes deaths. Also, make sure to treat any water before you put it into your tank. Tap water contains chemicals such as heavy metals and chlorine that will cause deaths.

Here are the water parameters for keeping your Axolotl larvae healthy:

• Water temperature: Keep the water temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for larvae is between 70-72°F (21-22°C).
• pH: Keep the pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for baby axolotl is 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

A baby Axolotl does well in the same temperature range as the adults. For optimal growth, however, you want to keep this baby in slightly warmer water. 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C) is a good start for hatching eggs and growing out newly hatched larvae.

As your baby axolotl grows, you can slowly lower the temperature to between 60 and 64°F (16 – 18°C). This will allow the baby to slowly adapt instead of getting a shock.

Make sure to put an accurate thermometer in your tank to monitor water temperature changes. If the aquarium water is too warm, your baby axolotl will become stressed. In most cases, you will require a water chiller if the water gets too hot too often or for prolonged periods of time.

In an emergency, you can add frozen cubes of Axolotl-safe water to your aquarium to help cool it down. In the rare event where it gets too cold, simply add an aquarium heater to get it up to the right temperature.

Substrate

The best substrate for Axolotl youngsters is sand. Sand provides some grip on the bottom of the aquarium as well as enrichment. Just like adult axolotls, the youngsters also like to dig through the substrate.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Sand is also safe if accidentally swallowed due to the very small size of the particles. Any kind of gravel should be avoided in larval tanks since it can cause injury and severe health problems.

Setting up a bare bottom aquarium is also possible. This will make cleaning much easier since you can simply suck up any solid waste during a water change.

Tank Decor

It’s always a good idea to have some decor in your tank. A completely empty tank will cause stress to your Axolotl larvae. Aquarium decorations you can consider include the following.

Plants

Plants are great in Axolotl tanks. They provide cover as well as enrichment. Keep in mind that the plants need to grow well in minimal lighting. Low light plants are the best candidates for an Axolotl tank.

Axolotls are nocturnal. For this reason, they have quite poor eyesight and prefer a dark environment. If the lighting in your tank is too strong, your axolotls will always be hiding from it.

It is also best to pick floating plants or those that prefer to grow on other ornaments like Anubias Nana or Java Fern. Axolotls dig a lot. This means that they will disturb and dig up any plants in the substrate.

Driftwood

Driftwood makes excellent places for an Axolotl to hide in and explore. It will also provide a surface for some kinds of plants to grow on. Driftwood also looks great when used on its own.

Hides

It’s very important to provide your Axolotl youngsters with places to hide. You can do this by adding ceramic pipes or other structures to your setup. This is even more important in tanks with lights. Axolotls have very sensitive eye lids and need to escape to a dark corner when the lights are on.

Rocks

Rocks are also an excellent addition to your breeding setup. A large flat rock is ideal for your Axolotls to breed on. Rocks can also be stacked and used to create shelters and hiding spots for the young. If done right, you don’t need anything else in your tank. Rocks make excellent decorations and can also be used to grow some kinds of plants.

Filtration Needs

Baby Axolotls need slow-moving water in their tank. For this reason, you can’t just put any filtration system in there. They also need a strong filtration system due to being such messy creatures, so it’s important that your filter can circulate a large amount of water in a short amount of time.

The best filters for baby Axolotls are sponge filters. These filters can circulate water quite quickly without creating a lot of flow.

Biofoam filters are quite popular for Axolotl setups. These sponge filters will help to clean the water while allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The bacteria in turn will help to keep your water parameters stable.

Baby Axolotls are quite sensitive to parameter changes so it’s best to make sure the tank is properly cycled before breeding with your adults.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about breeding Axolotls and caring for the young, you should have minimal problems doing it yourself. Just remember to set up a decent breeding tank with a proper filtration system and once the young hatch, don’t feed them immediately.

If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.

Discus are the fish I call the King of the aquarium — and for good reason. I’ve kept discus in dedicated setups and they’re unlike anything else in freshwater. The challenge is real: they demand pristine water, specific temperatures, and more patience than most fish require. But when you get the conditions right, there’s nothing more impressive in a planted tank.

The Discus Fish. To many who are fans of this fish, they are often called the Kings of the Aquarium. The are large, striking, and very beautiful freshwater fish. They are also to many considered a very difficult fish to keep. It is our dream fish and the one we wish we could have, but intimated by what others have said about proper Discus Fish Care.

Today’s blog post is all about Discus Fish Care. My goal here is to really break down Discus Fish care into critical key concepts. If these concepts are followed, you will have much better success than the average Aquarium Discus Fish keeper. I want to make you well informed and armed with the knowledge to become successful and happy with your Discus Aquarium.

A Quick Overview

History

Discus fish originate from the Amazon River. There original homes were around submerged tree roots and branches. This water was very clean and calm. The Discus Fish is a member of the cichlidae family. The cichlidae family is the largest group of freshwater fishes. However, Discus do not share the characteristics of many other Cichlids. Discus are very peaceful by nature while many Cichlids are aggressive and built for speed.

The first Discus was identified in the early 1800s by Johann Natterer¹. Natterer was instrumental in the identification of many animal species in the Amazon. His name is associated with several animals such as the Natterer’s bat.

The fish Discus to be imported happened around 1921. The shipping handling method for these fish at the time where not very good. Many died during the shipping process due to stress. It wasn’t until the mid 1930s that Discus started getting bred in captivity. These happened when the first Discus Fish were imported to the United States and Dwight Winter became the first person to successfully breed Discus in capacity.

As breeding techniques advanced and shipping improved, we started to see more varieties of Discus. Between the 1970s and 80s Discuss breeders started to create more colorful and vibrant varieties of Discus, like the Powder Blue Discus shown below.

Discus Fish Care – The Keys To Success Keeping Discus

Discus to many are considered very challenging to keep (video from our YouTube Channel). They are more difficult to keep then the average freshwater tropical fish, but not impossible. It is a matter of getting all the care elements dialed in so you have a stable tank. Discus Fish require a high investment. They need bigger tanks and higher quality equipment to provide the best environment for them. Let’s break down the keys to success for Discus Fish. They are:

• Housing
• Filtration
• Source Water
• Temperature
• Oxygen
• Decor
• Substrate (Or no substrate)
• Diet
• Tank Mates

Tank Size (Housing)

Adult Discus are large fish. They can grow up to 6 to 8 inches long, they also grow height wise as well due to their dish shape. Like most Cichlids, they are territorial to their own kind, so they need space to thrive and and a natural looking environment to curb their aggression.

The best tank to start a Discus Tank with would be a 75 gallon aquarium. Some people say a 55 gallon aquarium is okay, but I prefer the 75 gallon because it is both wider and taller. These are both factors we want to keep in mind when it comes to the taller disc shapes of these fish.

For a 75 gallon aquarium, we are looking to house 6 adult sized discus fish. Some people will start these tanks up with 10-12 younger discus and allow them to grow. Eventually, they will reduce their numbers to 6, with two being males. Reducing the male population reduces the aggressiveness. A 75 gallon aquarium is not an aquarium you can easily order online.

My suggestion would be to either purchase the aquarium from a petstore when they go on sale or attempt to purchase a cheap used tank from a hobbyist or classified ad. Marineland is a good brand to purchase a first time Discus Aquarium. They are well built and have black silicone instead of clear.

Tank Filtration

DIscus require very clean water. Their natural environment has clean water and the average home aquarium does not provide the quality water or filtration they need. Many hardcore discus keepers will sort this out with daily or every other day water changes. These water changes are very large – usually 50% or more. We can do the same thing here, but if you to build a foundation of proper equipment that can help keep your levels down you won’t be a slave to water changes.

Our first option is a Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear. The aquaclear always makes it into our fish tanks if one is looking for a hang on the back filter. It will do a great job for you and will work trouble free for years.

Our next option is a premium piece of equipment like a Canister Filter. Again, our focus on Discus tanks is very clean water. A Canister filter is ideal for this as we can stuff these with premium level biomedia like Biohome Ultimate Filter Media. This media is one of the best out there in the market and has the ability to reduce nitrates in the aquarium. We are going to pair this media inside the best canister filter on the market today, the OASE Biomaster Thermo. This canister filter comes with a heater bay to place your heater and with a ton of media space.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice

The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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This is a premium option, but let’s keep in mind that Discus are a premium level fish. These fish are not cheap and they demand proper equipment and maintenance. Let’s set ourselves up for success by getting high end equipment.

Source Water

Discus Fish need very clean water. I will say this over and over again in this blog post to drive in the point. It is one of the most critical factors to your success. Sometimes, the source water of your tap water is not going to be good enough for your Discus Fish.

It’s going to depend on your city’s water report. I would suggest you get a city water report and get the readings of levels in your tank to determine if an RODI Unit is going to be needed. The main thing we are going to need to look for are high nitrates. If you have high nitrates coming out of your tap water, you may need to consider an RODI Unit or RO Unit. RO water becomes a major purchase when it comes to breeding or raising Discus fry.

Budget Option

Aquatic Life RO Buddie

Budget Option

Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

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The RODI unit shown above is an example of a good unit that will get the job done. If you are going to use RO or RODI water, you will want to use a trace element supplement. Seachem’s Discus Trace is just the supplement to use. Distilled water can also work in a pinch, but given the tank size needed for these fish, it’s usually not a good long term choice.

For those of us using tap water, it is very important to age your tap water for 24 hours then treat it with a declorinator like Seachem Prime. You can further prep with a heater and airstone or submersible pump. The preference is aged tap water + prime if your source water is good enough.

I know not everyone’s tap water is going to be adequate. If you cannot obtain your city’s water report, I would suggest getting an RO unit. Nearly all units designed for aquariums will be an RODI unit. For Discus, you can remove the DI stage to save on the resin as long as your TDS output is within 50-100.

Temperature

Next to clean water, temperature is the second big factor to Discus Fish care success. Discuss thrive on temperatures from 85 to 86 degrees. That is a lot warmer than most tropical fish that likes 78 degrees. What will usually happen with Discus under lower temperatures is that they will not fare well under typical tropical fish temperatures.

We want higher temperatures for a Discus fish for multiple reasons. Warmer water keeps our Discus active. It increases their metabolism and tends to produce a more colorful fish. Many Discus are also keep at higher temperatures.

Imported Discus from Germany and Malaysia will often keep their temperatures higher. You will also want to see what temperatures the Discus you are looking to buy are kept at as you may need to accumulate. The main issue you will deal with higher temperatures is bacterial infections. If you have an outbreak, they are tougher to deal with at higher temperatures because the bacteria will produce faster. 

We want to use the Best Aquarium Heater we can get our hands on. For a Discus aquarium, the Eheim Jager heaters are the best heaters to go with. It would also be wise to get an aquarium heater controller like an Ink Bird to ensure you have temperatures that are accurate and fail proof.   

Tank Aeration

With higher temperatures and larger fish we will be dealing with oxygen issues in our aquarium. Also, Discus Fish prefer calm waters so we cannot use a Wave Maker for our setup. We are going to want to use a proper Aquarium Air Pump to provide a high amount of oxygen to our Discus tank.

Whisper AP Series

A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings

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Since we are dealing with larger tanks with Discus, a powerful air pump is in order. The Tetra Whisper AP series is the ideal aquarium air pump for Discus tanks. It is powerful and can handle the needs of these large fish while not making you lose your mind with their noise. 

Tank Decorations

From what we know about the history of Discus Fish, they lived near submerged tree roots and branches. The best decor for Discus is going to be Driftwood. However, we need to be very careful in our handling and selection of driftwood. We want a wood that will not alter the pH of our tank and we want something that is not going to rot away and leech nutrients all over the place.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

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Manzanita wood is probably the best wood to use for a Discus tank. It is clean and looks the part for their natural environment. Sandblasted Manzanita is what we want to look for. There are large showpieces you can purchase from the link above. These large sizes will show better in a large Discus tank.

Prepping the wood for the aquarium is a major process we must undergo for our Discus. Prepping driftwood for aquarium usage requires us to boil it for 10 to 15 minutes. This is to clean the rock of decaying, dead material and to remove tannins. Tannins being released from driftwood will dark the water of your aquarium giving it a tea-colored look.  Below is a video by Long Island Fish Guy showing the process.

The main challenge with boiling a large piece of driftwood is you cannot fit it in a pot. To work through this there are two approaches. One is to boil in parts that you can dip into a cooking pot. Another is to put the wood in a bathtub or outside and pour the boiling water on the wood. Be very careful if you have to do this as you can hurt yourself. 

Tank Substrate

Discus keepers fall into two camps. Those who want to do a bare bottom tank and those who want the look of a natural substrate. There are pros and cons to both.

For a bare bottom tank, we are working to create a very clean tank. The bare bottom approach is the preferred approach for breeders and those raising Discus fry. You can do a bare bottom tank for adult discus. For many, they will feel that the look of a bare bottom is odd. Painting the bottom of the aquarium white will help with the look. Other hobbyists have used aquarium safe tile to decorate their bottoms.

A discus tank with a natural substrate will provide a natural aesthic look. The problem you run into with a substrate is waste accumulation and dealing with potential nutrient issues. The best way to work with a substrate is to use it for aesthic purposes only.

We aren’t going to make an active substrate and we want a thin substrate similar to what I suggested with my prior Goldfish Tank post. We want no more than a half inch for our substrate. This will limit our ability for using rooted Aquarium Plants, but we will see later on that rooted plants are not the best for Discus Tanks.

The easiest substrate to maintain for a Discus tank is sand. We also have to consider the colors of our Discus. Discus fish are bright in color so a dark color would make them look darker. A lighter substrate will make our Discus look more bright. Light substrate is what we are going to want. 

Ideal For Goldfish

Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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A sandy grain size substrate like the one pictured above from Caribsea is what we are looking for. Again, we only want a half inch of substrate. This substrate is also pH neutral – something we will desire as most Discus for keeping purposes will need acidic water to neutral. This range of pH is 6.8 – 7.6 for most Discus varieties. If we are breeding discus, pH needs can be different. But, the best practice for breeding Discus is bare bottom.

Diet

Discus are big and colorful fish. They are demanding when it comes to diet as they need a varied and balance diet in order to keep their immune systems and colors healthy. Discus also require to be feed multiple times a day. They also have small mouths for their size and are slow eaters.

When it comes to food, the smaller is better. We want a mix of bloodworms, blackworms, and vibra bites. The delivery method is important as well. I have mentioned in past posts the amazing nutritional value of blackworms in the past. Blackworms would be my go to here. Freeze Dried Blackworms with a vitamin boost like Vita-Chem is a great mix.

My Pick

Vita Chem

One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

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For pellet food, Vibra bites is perfect for discus. It has the worm like shape that get your Discus going. 

Great For Discus

Hikari Vibra Bites

A color enhancing formula that has a worm shape. Excellent for discus fish.

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For feeding worm food like black worms a feeding cone can useful for keeping the food in place. Discus are slow eaters so this keeps the food in one place so your Discus can eat while keeping your tank clean. The video below by Canadian Aqua Farm shows a feeding cone in action.

Tank Mates

Finding tank mates for a Discus Fish tank can be quite the challenge. Because we are going to keep our Discus in hotter waters, this is going to hard on many tropical fish. Also Discus are slow feeders so an aggressive feeder is going to out compete and stress our Discus.

Aquarium fish like barbs are going to be bad tank mates due to how aggressive and active they are. Angelfish and Rams should also be avoided. We will also want to be careful about adding too many schooling fish like tetras who as a group can out compete our discus for food.

When we think about good tank mates, Cardinal Tetras and Corys come to mind. It is doable, but my recommendation is to make your Discus the centerpiece of your aquarium. Start with a dominant Discus Tank first then consider adding tank mates if you really want to. 

Live Plants for Them

A planted tank with Discuss is one of the most challenging setups you can attempt in the freshwater hobby. You are working against multiple factors when trying to add plants with Discus.

The first is the temperature. Because Discus do better in warm weathers, many plants will struggle to thrive at 85-86 degrees. The second factor working against is the lack of nutrients. Remember when I said that Discus Fish like clean water? Clean water means low nutrients. Low nutrients means that plants are going to have a hard time getting the food they need and we cannot use an active substrate.

Active substrate like the ADA Aquasoil I recommend in our Best Planted Tank Substrate post will cause higher nutrient levels in the tank. Great for rooted and carpeting plants, but bad for Discus. 

So what does this leave us with? We just eliminated a number of possible aquarium plants from the list. We are going to want live plants that can not only tolerate the higher temperatures of our Discus tank, but also will still grow in a low nutrient environment. We also want plants that can tolerate a non CO2 injected environment as we want to ensure we have a rich amount of oxygen available with our higher temperatures.

This leaves us with the hardiest of live plants, preferably ones that are column feeders versus root feeders. These will will do well without CO2 These plants are:

• Anubis
• Java Fern
• Shallow Rooted plants like
  • Bacopa Caroliniana
  • Micro Swords
  • Vallisneria

All of the plants above are considered Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do to if you want live plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System. I would recommend Current USA’s Serence Pro lights.

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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When planning a planted Discus Tank, we will need to keep in mind spacing. We will want our plants either attached to our driftwood or in the background of our aquarium. We want to keep the rest of the aquarium open for our Discus to swim and not feel crapped.

We want to avoid densely planted tanks. Lastly, our fish population decreases in a planted setup. For a 100 gallon fish tank, we would drop down to 5 to 6 Adult Discus. We do this because our substrate become an issue with waste with a planted tank. We want to keep our tanks very clean for Discus, so our best approach here is to reduce our aquarium fish population. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that Planted tanks are not good for raising fry or breeding. If you are looking to breed, the best practice are bare bottom tanks.

Different Types

There are tons of breeds of Discus. They are all long-lived, get large, and can be breed under the right conditions. We have two types of Discus in our hobby:

• Wild Discus
• Domestic Discus

Wild

The wild discus are the original Discus where our domestics come from. The Blue Green wild discus is where most of our Domestic Discus come from.

The Heckel Discus is one of the most sought after wild Discus. They are found in the Rio Negro. They are one of the most demanding Discus to keep in the aquarium due to their pH requirements. They prefer a pH closer to 4.0, which is a challenge for many aquarium keepers. 

All wild Discus are imported and difficult to keep in comparison to domestically bred Discus who are used to aquarium environments. Wild caught Discus are best kept to the experts and Discus enthusiast.

Domestic (Captive Bred)

There are more than 1000 types of Discus Fish available in the market, day by day count is increasing because of cross breeding and demand on market. And this video below shows the diversity of Discus fish. One thing to keep in mind is that Discus with a yellow coloring have difficulty maintaining their color.

I’ll go over the various discuss types in another post to keep this one short. Check out the visual below by Knock Out Aquatics to see how varied Discus get!

How To Select Them

Discus are very sensitive fish. They require careful selection when choosing a quality store to purchase from an a healthy specimen. Here are a few things to look for:

• Round shape – look for deformities
• Clear eyes – no nicks or cloudy eyes
• Good color – poor color indicates stress or poor diet
• Fins – Look for straight fins. Watch out for bent or clamped fins
• Body mass – Your Discus should look thick. Do not purchase a thin Discus
• Good appetite – Your Discus should actively eat when fed
• Swimming activity – The Discus should be swimming in the open not in a corner

How To Quarantine Them

While I believe you should quarantine all fish, I know most people will not. Discus fish are a premium fish and require quarantine into to thrive. The quarantine process generally takes 8 weeks and involves frequent water changes – as often as every day!

In the second week, Discus experts would recommend prophylatic treatment with Prazipro or Levamisole to treat for internal parasites. Internal parasites are very common with Discus and is a mild treatment².

You would stop treatment in the 6th weeks and do a 2 week observation period. You should not use antibiotics or external parasite treatments unless you see signs of disease. To learn more about diseases check out this fish disease article. Some commmon factors that cause health issues would be:

• Chemical poisoning – from poor water conditions
• Dissolved gases – from low oxygen or high CO2 levels
• Poor tank hygiene
• Nutritional deficiencies
• Gill flukes, parasites — which is why we quarantine!
• Bacterial infections

Your quarantine tank should be bare bottom with a cycled filter. It should be away from your display and you should use a separate net for it. Given the time involved of quarantine, do not plan on traveling or vacationing during this time. Know your schedule and plan ahead!

Breeding

This could be a separate post in itself, so I’ll keep it brief. There are two methods for breeding Discus fish – artificial and natural.

Artifical Breeding

This involved removing the eggs after they have been fertilized. Fry are hatched and fed slime when they are initially born. As they grow, they are transitioned to baby brine shrimp and commercial foods. This is a common method of breeding for commercial Discus breeders. PVC is used as a surface to lay eggs and collect them. It is efficient and more profitable from a business perspective

Natural Breeding

Natural Discuss breeding allows for the eggs to be tended by the parents. The fry hatch and are free to swim in the aquarium. The fry will eat their parent’s slime coat when they are born. They eventually will be transitioned to baby shrimp and commercial food.

This is considered one of the most fulfilling experiences in our hobby. The parents take takes tending to their babies. They fish fry receive antibodies from their parent’s slime coats. As a result, they can develop a stronger immune system.

Where To Buy

Discus fish are one of the more difficult fish to purchase. You will want to purchase them from a high quality local fish store if you are looking to buy locally. If you do not have a good local fish store, you can purchase high quality specimens at tradeshows.

A more recent development has been the emergence of What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) online fish stores. Most are small specialty fish stores. When looking at one, make sure they offer a arrive live guarantee and a warranty of at least 7 days.

Additional Resources (Books To Read)

There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There are two books I recommend when it comes to Discus care.

Discus World

Discus World

A great deep dive book on Discuss keeping for a beginner. Written by a discuss breeder

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The Discus World book is a good casual dive into the world of Discus keeping and breeding. it is informational enough to get you beyond what I have covered here, yet friendly enough for a beginner to pick up.

The Discus Book

The Discus Book

First published in 1989, this book is an update with a full color edition. Written by Alastair Agutter, who has been an authority on aquariums since 1967

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The Discus Book is the book to purchase if you want a comprehensive guide on Discus. This book is written by Alastair Agutter. Alastair has been involved in the aquarium hobby since 1967. He is a veteran in the industry. He offers a no sales approach to proper care. It’s a refreshing perspective to read as our aquarium hobby evolves into a gadget first approach. He’s all about the biological and science. It’s a must read if you want to get serious about Discus!

Closing Thoughts

Discus fish are the known as the king of the aquarium. They are beautiful but difficult to keep. If you are up to the challenge, they can be one of the most rewarding experiences in our hobby. I hope I showed you what Discus fish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

Are you considering an exotic fish breed to spice up your hobby? Getting a Flowerhorn Cichlid will definitely not disappoint. In this article, we will look at everything you need to know about Flowerhorn Cichlid Care.

Let’s dive right in and start learning all we can about this extraordinary aquatic critter.

Species Overview

Origins

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Flowerhorn Cichlids (video source) are manmade freshwater fish that were first bred by fish keepers in Thailand, Malaysia, and Taiwan. That means this aquatic animal does not naturally occur in the wild. The closest wild relatives to this hybrid fish, are African Cichlids.

They first appeared in the market in 1996 and have been rising in popularity since. These large Cichlids also have quite an impressive lifespan adding to their popularity.

Unfortunately, some Flowerhorns have been illegally released into the wild. They can now be found in a few wild habitats around the world where they’ve become an invasive species.

Flowerhorn fish is a result of selectively breeding different African Cichlid species. The idea of breeding these fish was based on the earliest manmade fish called the Blood Parrot.

Interbreeding Cichlids gives them the same unique head and body shape as the parent species. Fortunately, this process is fairly simple since Cichlids will spawn with just about any fish of the opposite sex as long as it’s another Cichlid species.

A few of the naturally occurring species that were used to create Flowerhorn strains are Red Devil (Amphilophus labiatus), Redheaded Cichlid (Paraneetroplus synspilus), Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus), Red Terror (Cichlasoma festae), and Trimac (Cichlasoma trimaculatum). Parrot fish also played a role, but nobody seems to know (or aren’t telling us) exactly to what degree any of these species were involved.

There were originally only five strains of Flowerhorns. These were referred to as Luohans. These strains include the golden-based group such as Faders and Golden Trimax as well as the Golden Monkey, Kamfa, and Zhen Zhu varieties. These are sometimes referred to as Cichlid fish breeds, but in reality, they are only hybrids and not full breeds.

Other strains have also since been developed. Some of the most popular Flowerhorns are currently Golden Monkey, Red Dragon Flowerhorn, and Thai Silk.

What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?

A Flowerhorn Cichlid is a large fish with a unique body shape and nuchal hump also called a Kok. The nuchal hump is the large protrusion on top of your fish’s head that gives them an easily recognizable silhouette. The size can vary from massive nuchal humps on males to nonexistent on females. The size can also change depending on the situation the fish finds itself in.

Both the dorsal and anal fins start about two-thirds of the way back on the body and stretch all the way to the base of the tail. The dorsal fin matches the bulk of the anal fin and ends in a fleshy, braid-like protrusion. The dorsal and anal fins also dwarf the caudal fin.

The tail fin, on the other hand, is usually round and much thinner than the other fins but the shape may vary. The pectoral fins are quite short and often almost see-through.

Flowerhorns also have quite a lumpy ‘chin’ area that extends right to the ventral fins. This feature is much more prominent in males.

Male Flowerhorns also have more brightly colored, pearlized scales. The female Flowerhorn will usually be an inch or two smaller than the male.

The unusual patterns of Flowerhorns evolve and change as the juvenile fish grow into adulthood. Once this critter reaches mature size, the patterns are usually set. This means that you may not know what you’re getting if you choose a juvenile fish. Most will end up with horizontal black stripes, however.

The eyes of these aquatic pets are usually quite prominent. The King Kamfa variety tends to have white or yellow eyes.

Feeding a Flowerhorn Cichlid is fairly easy as long as you get the balance right. Due to these fish being so large, they have quite a big apatite. These freshwater fish will quite happily feed on just about anything that ends up in the tank.

If you’re unsure which meaty treats your fish can eat, consider adding the following foods:

• Brine shrimp
• Shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Mosquito larvae
• Earthworms
• Other aquatic worms
• Fish fillet
• Dried crickets
• Dried grasshoppers
• Krill

Keep in mind that what you feed will depend on the size of your fish. Small treats like brine shrimps are for small fish. Bigger fish can have bigger snacks like earthworms.

For greens, you can consider adding the following vegetables:

• Boiled peas (No shells)
• Zucchini
• Shredded lettuce
• Cucumber

Give Them Live Foods

To keep your fish in tip-top shape, it is best to feed both live and frozen foods. Live foods, like mosquito larvae, will provide your fish with some entertainment. Hunting these creatures will also appeal to the foraging instincts of your Flowerhorn Cichlid.

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

It is best to feed your Flowerhorn Cichlid just enough to finish the food within five minutes after feeding. If you notice any food left at the end of five minutes, consider reducing the amount fed.

Any food that is allowed to settle to the bottom of the tank will usually just stay there to rot. This reduces your water quality and will lead to ammonia spikes if you’re not careful.

On the other hand, if your fish isn’t fed enough, it will start to dig up plants, chew on the leaves and break the stems. To reduce this destructive behavior, make sure to feed your fish regularly.

Adult fish need to be fed around two to three times a day. Young fish need five to 10 feedings to help them grow. If your fish aren’t interested in every feeding, reduce the number of feeding per day.

Their Temperament and Behavior

Flowerhorn Cichlids have a reputation for being quite aggressive. For this reason, they don’t do so well in community tanks with other fish. If you keep these fish with other species, you can expect fights to break out quite often. Even when kept in tanks with others of their kind, their aggressive nature will often lead to fighting.

Funny enough, Flowerhorns do prefer to swim in pairs. Keeping a male and female together in the tank will often reduce aggression and lower the stress levels in the aquarium.

It is possible to add in a few tank mates for your Flowerhorns if you do some careful planning. It’s usually an idea to keep them with peaceful fish of a similar size.

These Cichlids also won’t just stay in one layer of the tank. You can expect to see your fish moving up and down the water column as they, please. They will also claim territories in the aquarium which can lead to fighting. This is why it is very important to have enough space if you’re planning on having more than one Flowerhorn Cichlid in the tank.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, you’ll also need to do some planning. These fish aren’t the best when it comes to living plants. They will often dig up the plants and even eat them. To avoid this, make sure to feed your fish correctly and plant unpalatable specimens that don’t require the substrate to thrive in your tank.

Tank Mates

Flowerhorn Cichlid tank mates aren’t easy to find. Generally, these fish don’t do so well in a tank set up with other aquarium fish. Their aggressive nature and territorial tendencies tend to get in the way.

Fortunately, there are a few suitable tank mates out there. It will also help to select a large tank to reduce possible aggressive behavior. Before you select tank mates, keep the following guidelines in mind:

• Avoid other species of aggressive fish. Choosing fish with peaceful dispositions is best.
• Avoid slow-moving fish. Any species that gets selected must be able to escape any conflict.
• Avoid shrimp and snails, they will definitely only serve as a great snack for your fish.
• Avoid fish that are significantly smaller than your Flowerhorns. They will usually end up as snacks and targets for aggression rather than Flowerhorn tank mates.
• Any tank mate you select must be big enough to hold its own and be fast enough to swim away when the need arises.

If you’re still considering getting some friends for your fish, keep the lists below in mind.

Best Tank Mates for Them

It can get quite frustrating to select some fishy friends for your giant terrors. To make it a bit easier, consider the following species:

• Another Flowerhorn Cichlid (Best choice)
• Sailfin Plecos
• Leopard Plecos
• Bichir (Go big to avoid problems)
• Silver Arowana
• Bristlenose Plecos
• Jaguar Cichlids
• Common Plecos
• Clown Plecos
• Giant Gourami
• Lowland Cichlids
• Spotted Hope
• Armored Catfish
• Oscar Cichlids

Least Compatible Fish for Them

• Any aggressive fish species besides other Cichlids
• Very small fish like Rasboras
• Shrimps of any kind
• Snails of any kind
• Danios
• Tetras
• Livebearers
• Betta fish
• Loaches
• Red-Tailed Sharks
• Rainbow Sharks
• Iridescent Sharks
• Goldfish
• Koi
• Bala Sharks
• Angelfish

Care

Despite being a manmade fish, the Flowerhorn Cichlid is quite hardy and fairly easy to care for. If keeping fish is new to you, you shouldn’t have any problems, but having some experience is better. New fish keepers are often put off by the required tank size as well.

Flowerhorns are big fish. They are also quite aggressive and messy. This can complicate things when it comes to keeping other fish with your Flowerhorn. You’ll also need to do regular maintenance to keep the tank clean and the water conditions perfect.

Tank Requirements

Flowerhorns need quite big aquariums to satisfy their territorial needs. You will also need some decorations in your tank setup to keep them out of trouble.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to know exactly what these fish prefer in terms of habitat since they were bred in captivity. In other fish species, you may set up the aquarium with plants or lots of rocks to mimic the natural habitat of that specific freshwater fish. In this case, your guess is as good as mine when it comes to tank decorations.

Despite not having a natural habitat, you can still create a stunning home for your pet. Here’s what you need to know.

Tank Size

To keep your fish healthy and stress-free, you will need at least a 75-gallon tank. These are very messy fish so if you can go bigger, go for it. Bigger tanks will prevent sudden changes in water parameters due to rotting fish waste and uneaten food.

If you’re thinking of keeping a breeding pair in the same tank, make sure to allocate at least 150 gallons to these fish. The bigger the tank, the less likely it will be for them to show aggression due to territorial battles. If you want a tank with different Cichlid species or other fish in it, make sure to give them a tank with a minimum volume of 215 gallons to prevent aggression.

Tank Setup

Setting up a Flowerhorn tank is really quite simple. After you’ve selected the tank you want, you will need to add a few things to create a suitable environment for your fish. Here are a few decor ideas to think about.

Plants

A Flowerhorn Cichlid does well in a tank with some added plants. Unfortunately, they do tend to dig up plants from the substrate. It’s best to keep them in tanks with plants that prefer to grow on other objects like driftwood and rocks with their roots exposed.

If possible, also select plants that aren’t the most palatable. Flowerhorns are omnivores and will nibble on your plants from time to time. A few live plants you can consider are Anubias Nana and Java Fern. Be prepared for some casualties, however, since these big fish will damage some of your plants.

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Substrate

By now you probably noticed that Flowerhorns love to dig around in the substrate. For this reason, it is very important to choose something safe to put at the bottom of your tank.

The best substrate will be sand or large tiles without any sharp edges. Sand allows the fish to dig to its heart’s content without the risk of injury. Avoid coarse gravel. The substrate is often ingested during digging which may lead to impaction if the grains are too large.

Some aquarium enthusiasts prefer to have a bare bottom tank. Bare tanks are very easy to clean and also completely remove the likelihood of impaction due to substrate ingestion.

Decor

To create a bit more structure in the tank, you can add large heavy rocks or driftwood to your tank. Just make sure that the items you add are large and heavy enough to not be knocked over by your fish. If you can, secure any decorations to the bottom of the tank.

Water Quality and Filtration

Flowerhorns prefer clean water in their tanks. They are quite sensitive to pollutants which means regular water changes are necessary to keep them healthy. It is also best to have a moderate flow in the tank to circulate oxygen and remove toxins.

Filtration

Flowerhorns are very messy. For this reason, they need a strong filtration system to help maintain the correct water parameters. Your filter should produce a moderate flow to circulate water around the aquarium.

A canister filter is an excellent choice when it comes to these Cichlids. It will create the correct flow while removing any solids from the water. It will also help to remove toxins by allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The Fluval FX Series is designed for large fish like Flowerhorns.

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Water Parameters

Despite being quite hardy fish, you will still need to keep an eye on the water conditions to keep them healthy. Here’s a quick breakdown of the parameters for Flowerhorn Cichlids:

• Water Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°c)
• pH: 6.5-7.8
• GH: 161-358ppm (9-20 dGH)
• kH: 54-107ppm (3-6 dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <20 ppm

Aquarium Maintenance

Since Flowerhorns are such slobs, it is very important to do regular aquarium maintenance. You should do weekly water changes and replace at least 20% of the aquarium water. On top of that, you can do monthly water changes of up to 70% of the total volume of water.

Doing these water changes will remove solid waste and excess nitrates in the water. Nitrates may not be dangerous in small quantities, but they will become toxic in large amounts.

Testing Tank Conditions

To keep your fish health excellent, make sure to do weekly water tests. To achieve this you will need a water test kit. The ideal kit will test all the water parameters except for the temperature in your tank. For that, you will need a thermometer.

Breeding

Breeding these fish is very difficult. Fertile specimens are extremely rare in this hybrid breed. A fish keeper also needs to wait for around 8-10 months or even longer before they can test breed their male and up to 2 years for a female. For this reason, it can become very frustrating trying to breed these Cichlids.

If you still insist on breeding them, you’ll need a breeding tank and some knowledge.

Sexing

Male and female Flowerhorns are quite easy to tell apart. Males tend to be around one to two inches bigger than females. They are also more brightly colored.

You can also expect a V-shaped vent on the male where the female has a U-shaped vent. The most prominent difference is the nuchal hump. Males tend to have massive nuchal humps while a female has no hump or just a very small protrusion.

It can be difficult to sex juveniles so make sure to buy from an experienced breeder to be sure.

Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

You don’t need to do anything special to prepare your fish for breeding. Simply place them in a breeding tank with a similar size to their normal tank. If the male is too aggressive, use a divider that allows water flow between the male and female. This should encourage breeding as soon as the divider is removed.

Your breeding tank will function as both a spawning tank as well as a fry tank.

The Breeding Process

During the breeding process (video source), the female Flowerhorn will lay around 900 eggs on a smooth surface somewhere in the tank. The male will then swim over and fertilize the eggs.

Once fertilization has taken place you can remove the female. The male Flowerhorn will care for the eggs until they hatch. Once the fry hatched, you can also remove the male.

Caring For Fry

Caring for the fry is quite simple. It is best to feed the fry with live food like brine shrimps to help them grow. You will need to do this 5 to 10 times per day to keep up with their ferocious appetite and nutrient needs.

Once they turn 6 months old, you should be able to sex your offspring and separate them into different grow-out tanks.

Health And Disease

You’ll be happy to know that Flowerhorns aren’t susceptible to any particular disease. Unfortunately, there are still a few things you should be aware of. Let’s take a look at your Cichlid’s health.

Evaluating Their Health

It’s very important to keep an eye on these amazing creatures. Fortunately, it’s quite obvious when your pet isn’t feeling so well. Look out for the following red flags:

• Reduced apatite
• Obvious sores on the body
• Reduced activity level
• Change in normal behavior

Common Health Issues

These Cichlids are amazingly healthy pets. This doesn’t mean they are completely immune against diseases, however. Here are a few health issues you should be aware of:

• Mechanical health issues

Due to these fish being so aggressive, you can expect a few injuries every now and then. These shouldn’t be a huge problem unless they affect the fish’s ability to swim. Injuries can also happen during the exploration of the tank and while digging through the substrate.

Avoid these issues by checking the tank for any sharp objects and providing a large enough aquarium to avoid conflict.

• Ich

Ich shows up as white spots on the body and gills of your aquatic pet. Make sure to treat this disease immediately to prevent serious complications. To understand ich better, take a look at this article.

• Hole-in-the-head disease

This disease looks like holes in the nuchal hump of your fish. Fortunately, it is curable, but some scarring will remain. Treat this problem by doing daily water changes and removing any activated carbon in your tank until the water conditions improve.

Where to Buy

Flowerhorn Cichlids are quite popular. They can be found in almost any aquarium shop around the world. Unfortunately, these hybrid species are not cheap to obtain. The average price they go for is around $35 for just one fish. To get the best of the best, you will need to venture to an online fish store, connect with breeders locally, or at tradeshows.

FAQS

Closing Thoughts

Flowerhorn fish is very popular in the aquarium trade. They are fairly easy to keep as long as you do regular tank maintenance to keep the water quality pristine. It is also important to monitor the water temperature to keep them healthy.

If you have any questions, please comment below.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.