Tag: Fishkeeping

  • How Long Do Goldfish Live? (Its Longer Than You Think!)

    How Long Do Goldfish Live? (Its Longer Than You Think!)

    Goldfish lifespan is one of those topics where the truth surprises almost everyone. Most people think goldfish are disposable pets that live a year or two, but properly kept goldfish regularly reach 10-15 years, and well-documented cases of 20+ year goldfish exist. I’ve seen what happens when goldfish are kept in appropriate conditions versus a tiny bowl โ€” the difference in longevity is dramatic, and it all comes down to a handful of key factors.

    The appeal of goldfish as pets is undeniable. They’re cute, active, and beautiful, on top of being relatively easy to care for.

    Yet, despite this, something you’ll commonly hear about goldfish is that they don’t live very long. And unfortunately, that’s become true for most goldfish in captivity… but not for the reasons you might believe.

    You see, it’s not that goldfish have inherently short lifespans. It’s that most people, especially those with insufficient fishkeeping knowledge/experience, don’t know what it takes to keep a goldfish alive for its true average lifespan.

    So the question, how long do goldfish live, doesnโ€™t have a straight answer. It all depends on how well theyโ€™re being brought up. Find out more below!

    How Long Do Goldfish Live?

    Assuming that the goldfish is healthy and treated with care, its life expectancy can go up to 15-20 years1.

    There are even records of some slim-bodied goldfish, like the feeder or common goldfish and comet goldfish, living up to 40 years in an outdoor pond, where the natural habitat of a goldfish is most closely mimicked.

    Meanwhile, fancy goldfish lifespan generally ranges from 7-12 years. This is because compared to slim-bodied goldfish, they are much frailer. Their biological processes are also much easier to disrupt due to their organs being packed into a small, squat, round body.

    Even the bubble eye, which makes certain species like the black moor so popular, can be a cause of lower life expectancy. In general, slim bodied goldfish can live longer than fancy ones.

    Lifespan of Different Goldfish Types

    Wondering how long do goldfish live? Here are the average goldfish lifespans of the most commonly sought types of goldfish:

    Goldfish NameGoldfish TypeAverage Lifespan (Tank)Average Lifespan (Pond)
    Common GoldfishSlim-bodied12 – 20 years20 years or more
    Comet GoldfishSlim-bodied10 – 12 years15 – 20 years
    Oranda GoldfishFancy Goldfish10 – 12 years10 – 15 years
    Fantail GoldfishFancy Goldfish10 – 12 years10 – 15 years

    Why Do Goldfish Die So Easily?

    Why Do Goldfish Die So Easily

    If youโ€™ve been paying attention, youโ€™ve figured out by now that the expected lifespan of your goldfish actually exceeds that of your other seemingly smarter and stronger house pets, like your dog or cat.

    Yet, itโ€™s more and more common to see that goldfish kept as pets don’t make it past 5 years of life. And this leaves a lot of confused first-time goldfish owners asking why their goldfish died so soon and how they can ensure a longer lifespan for their other goldfish.

    So, a lot of it comes down to the care and living conditions of the goldfish.

    If you can ensure healthy living conditions and tank or pond water quality for your goldfish, you can expect them to live out their expected lifespan of 15-20 years.

    However, for goldfish cooped up in a little bowl or small tank, kept in unclean water containing significant amounts of waste, or not given a varied diet, the average life expectancy is 2-5 years.

    Whoa, thatโ€™s a lot of information.

    But itโ€™s not even the start.

    Wondering where you went wrong? Find out below.

    How to Increase Goldfish Life Expectancy

    How To Increase Goldfish Life Expectancy

    Like all other beings on the planet, the lifespan of a goldfish is determined by how healthy it is. And ensuring that health is on you who are charged with their care. If you’re new to keeping these fish, don’t freak out. Here is how to extend that lifespan. With lots of care, maybe you to can raise a goldfish like Tish, who was the oldest goldfish. Tished lived to be 43 years! Let’s look at these 9 actionable tips before to get you started right!

    1. Clean the Tank Regularly

    Good water quality is of utmost importance if you want to facilitate a long goldfish lifespan. Especially considering how much waste they produce, itโ€™s crucial to carry out frequent water changes to prevent toxicity. Always do your routine water changes and look into top notch filtration. You should regularly test your water to ensure you maintain lower nitrate levels and not have dangerous levels of ammonia or nitrite.

    Additionally, get used to using your own intuition. Check how the water looks and how it smells. If you feel something is wrong, trust your gut and whip out your water testing kit. Prevention is always better than cure when it comes to the increasing life expectancy of fish.

    2. Feed Your Goldfish a Healthy Diet

    What most people think of as โ€œfish food,โ€ which are typically pellets and flakes, are actually more proprietary food than anything else.

    So when we say “healthy diet,” we, of course, mean a varied, omnivorous diet. You want to give your goldfish a little bit of everything: pellets and flakes, some vegetables, live foods like worms and shrimp, and even fruit sometimes, to keep health problems at bay.

    There is a comprehensive guide I have posted all about what do goldfish eat. Check out the guide. You will be blow away at what you can feed your goldfish!  

    3. Donโ€™t Overfeed Your Goldfish

    If youโ€™ve had your goldfish a while, you will have noticed by now that they will eat almost anything at any time. In fact, as long as it can fit in their mouth, these omnivorous creatures will attempt to swallow almost any object. All types of goldfish do this.

    Yes, itโ€™s cute watching a goldfish gobble up the food you lovingly give them. But you must not be tempted to overfeed them. Itโ€™s very easy for goldfish to get digestive health problems like bloating and constipation. It might even lead to swim bladder disease.

    As a consequence, this will lead to a reduced goldfish lifespan.

    4. Maintain the Water Temperature

    If you want your fish to live long, you have to try to make sure that your goldfish tank mimics their natural habitat as closely as possible. An important component of this is maintaining the right water temperature.

    For fancy goldfish, the optimum temperature is between 65ยฐ to 72ยฐF, while for slim-bodied goldfish (like the common goldfish), the right temperature range is 60ยฐ to 72ยฐF. Make sure you do proper research on the breed of goldfish you have.

    If the temperature is too high, your goldfish will experience higher metabolism. Although this will cause them to grow bigger at a faster rate, it will shorten their lifespan. If you keep your goldfish in a pond and it freezes over in the winter, consider investing in a pond de-icer.

    5. Give Your Goldfish the Space They Need

    Goldfish in a Pond

    Film, TV, and children’s books have had us believing for years that a goldfish survive in a little fish bowls. This is absolutely incorrect and a sure-fire way to your goldfish to have a short lifespan.

    The average lifespan of a goldfish in the wild is from 20-40 years, mainly because they have a lot of space to swim around in, less stress, and stable conditions.

    So when forced to circle in one spot, e.g., in a bowl, a goldfish gets extremely stressed. And when that stress reaches its apex, your pet could die.

    Not to mention, once again, goldfish produce a lotโ€”and we really mean a lotโ€”of waste. The smaller their tank, the more quickly and easily it will fill up with toxic goldfish waste and lead to your pet dying.

    That’s why goldfish need a large aquarium size. One goldfish needs at least a 20 gallon fish tank to live in. And for every new goldfish you add, you must add another 10 gallons. So, donโ€™t crowd your goldfish in small tanks.

    6. Provide Adequate Filtration

    This is, of course, true not only for goldfish but for any other pet fish. But given how much these guys love to poop, itโ€™s absolutely essential to providing filtration for your goldfish tanks. A moderate filtration rate should be alright in goldfish tanks. Look to provide a high amount of biological filtration to manage the heavy bioload they add to your tank.

    7. Choose Tank Mates Wisely

    Not all fish should be kept with one another. This includes different goldfish species.

    The bodies of fancy goldfish, as you may already know, are quite weak and slow compared to goldfish with slim bodies. As such, they should not be kept in the same tank because stronger fish almost always prey on weaker ones and will outcompete them for food.

    8. Put Your Goldfish in a Pond

    If you have very delicate fancy goldfish like pearlscales, ignore this bitโ€”their genetics make it hard for them to survive in ponds.

    On the other hand, if you have long goldfish of the slim-bodied variety, such as common goldfish, comets, and shubunkins, the best thing you can do to increase their lifespan is to put them in a freshwater pond.

    In the wild, goldfish live in freshwater streams and ponds. Seasonal variations, plenty of sunlight, and naturally available sources of varied foods (e.g., plants, insects, larvae) all make an outdoor pond the best place for a goldfish to enjoy a longer lifespan.

    Even some varieties of fancy goldfish, like the fantail variety, can be kept in a pond by fish keepers who are willing to put in the extra effort to create healthy conditions for them.

    You might have to use implements such as a pond heater. Adjusting the pH is another concern, as well as preventing predatorsโ€”like birdsโ€”from feasting on your goldfish (because, after all, being eaten is an effective way to shorten anyone’s lifespan).

    9. Ensure Proper Bacteria Levels

    One of the best ways to ensure a long and healthy life for your goldfish is to allow bacteria to thrive in their tank.

    Why? Because bacteria keep goldfish waste in check.

    Not only do goldfish love to eat and donโ€™t know when to stop eating, theyโ€”quite predictablyโ€”are known to produce very large amounts of waste. And this waste contains toxins like nitrite and ammonia, which, when existing in large amounts in your goldfish tank, can damage your fishโ€™s gills and even cause brain damage.

    The result? Stress, a shortened lifespan, a sick fish, and maybe even death.

    In freshwater bodies, the natural habitat of goldfish, the water conditions include naturally occurring bacteria that break down the goldfish’s waste. In a home aquarium, however, there are no bacteria. That’s why one of the ways of proper care of goldfish is introducing bacteria into their tank. This starts with a proper cycle.

    Hereโ€™s how to do it.

    How to Introduce Healthy Bacteria into Your Goldfish Tank

    Letโ€™s take you through all the necessary steps.

    Step 1: Remove Chlorine from the Tank

    One of the most common mistakes new goldfish owners make in fish care is bringing their goldfish home to an unprepared tank. Some people think itโ€™s as easy as bringing the goldfish home and dumping it/them in the tank.

    This is far from the truth. You need to prep your tank for your goldfish weeks and sometimes even months in advance, depending on the breed and amount of goldfish.

    Start by ridding your goldfishโ€™s new abode of chlorine. Use a conditioner to do this. Although chlorine is helpful in our drinking and bathing water, it inhibits bacteria growth in a fish tank.

    Step 2: Allow Bacteria Into the Fish Tank

    Once the chlorine is out, the bacteria will start pouring in pretty much all on its own. Not only from the air and the water itself but also from the plants and rocks you use to decorate your aquarium. Even commercially sold bacteria culture is easy to access these days. Fritz Turbo Start is my favorite bacteria for freshwater tanks.

    My Pick For Freshwater Bacteria
    Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater

    Fritz Turbo Start is known in the industry as the fastest acting nitrifying bacteria you can purchase. This 700 version is specialized for freshwater tank and has my highest recommendation

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    But your work for your fish doesnโ€™t end there.

    Step 3: Drop Some Goldfish Food (Or ammonia) in the Tank

    I know, it sounds a little silly right now; why put fish food in a fish tank with no fish?

    Because it allows your bacteria to start doing their job.

    Use fish flakes or pellets for this purpose. When this food disintegrates inside the tank, it will release ammonia. The bacteria, in turn, will consume this ammonia. In a few weeks, you will have a self-sustaining bacteria ecosystem inside your fish tank.

    A more modern technique would be to use ammonia from a manufacturer like Dr. Tim’s Aquatics. This is what I’m used to doing for my fresh only systems. Once you have no ammonia and nitrites reading when you test your water, it’s time to add goldfish!

    Step 4: Make Regular Water Checks

    This is very important if you want to sustain healthy living conditions for your goldfish. Why not get yourself a water testing kit to regularly check water parameters? Itโ€™ll make your life a lot easier. Do your water changes to keep your nitrates down.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1.   How long can a goldfish live in a bowl?

    If you’re wondering how long can goldfish live in a bowl: not longer than 2 to 3 years. Goldfish bowls are not large enough to sustain a goldfish, which means leaving yours in a bowl will cause your goldfish to be underdeveloped and stressed.

    Consider that a single goldfish requires at least 20 gallons of water to thrive before putting yours in a bowl.

    2.   Why do goldfish die so easily?

    The most common reasons for the lifespan of a goldfish being shortened are ammonia poisoning, excessive nitrate levels, and being kept in a tank that’s too small, among other reasons.

    Therefore, you should make it a point to ensure that your goldfish’s tank water is clean and of good quality and provide them enough space to move around. Remember, one goldfish requires at least 20 gallons of water to thrive.

    3.   How big can a goldfish get?

    In captivity, slim-bodied goldfish can grow up to 10 inches. Fancy goldfish will typically grow to 6-8 inches. In the wild, these fish might grow up to 12-14 inches in length.

    The largest ever recorded goldfish, owned by a man in the Netherlands, measured 18.7 inches.

    4.   What kind of goldfish live the longest?

    Species of goldfish that live the longest are the common goldfish, shubunkins, and comets. These slim-bodied goldfish types do require a lot of tank space compared to fancy goldfish but have been known to live longer than 10 years.

    5.   What is the average lifespan of a pet goldfish?

    On average, pet goldfish live 10 to 15 years. However, if if they aren’t kept in good housing conditions, they usually will live no longer than 5 years.

    6.   How long can goldfish go without food?

    Up to 2 weeks, depending on their health.

    Closing Thoughts

    Out of all the aquarium fish varieties you might choose to populate your home, goldfish are known to live the longest, with proper care. So, it really is a crying shame that these fish have developed a reputation for dying easily and quickly.

    Donโ€™t help to keep this idea alive. Whether in a tank or pond, treat your goldfish with love and care, and above all, humanelyโ€” and they will stay alive as long as they can to keep making you go awww at all of their little fish antics.

    We hope the tips in our article have helped. We wish your goldfish a long and beautiful life!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • What do Goldfish eat? – Everything you need to know about feeding your pet fish

    What do Goldfish eat? – Everything you need to know about feeding your pet fish

    Goldfish diet is something I’ve paid close attention to over the years, and the difference between a well-fed goldfish and one living on cheap flakes alone is genuinely striking โ€” in body condition, color, and longevity. Goldfish are omnivores with a real appetite for plant matter, and feeding them a varied diet that reflects that goes a long way toward keeping them healthy for the long haul.

    Ever wonder what do goldfish eat? Feeding your pet fish can be a daunting task. Whether you have a aquarium or a pond, this post will help you figure out how to feed your little guys! This blog post is for all the goldfish owners in the world who want to know more about feeding their pets and make sure they’re getting everything they need.

    You’ll learn: What type of food do goldfish eat? How often should I feed my fish? What are some common mistakes people make when feeding their pet fish? And much more! So grab a snack (or two) because this long article is full of great information that will answer any questions you may have about feeding your beloved pet friends

    What Do Goldfish Eat in the Wild?

    Understanding the diet of goldfish means studying what they eat in the wild. Doing so will allow you to understand what kind of diet you need to replicate for them.

    As you may already know, goldfish belong to the Cyprinidae family, which means they share ancestry with the carps.

    Carps live in slow-moving waters that are rife with plants and vegetation, floating on the surface or thriving underwater. They also eat any animal matter they can find.

    So, it makes sense why wild goldfish are natural omnivores. It means that in the wild, they eat plant matter as well as animal matter.

    In the wild, plant matter usually means live plants and algae, while animal matter includes insects, insect larvae, zooplankton, tadpoles, and small crustaceans who make up protein sources. Some goldfish might even eat smaller fish.

    The main takeaway is this: goldfish will eat almost anything, as long as it fits in their mouth! So, you have to be careful with goldfish food because goldfish truly don’t know when to stop eating.

    What to Feed Goldfish

    Let’s break this down to a list than I’ll explain in detail. There are four general categories of food types for goldfish:

    Manufactured Foods

    This is the goldfish food we are most familiar with when we go into a pet store. These would be:

    • Dried pellets
    • Dried flakes
    • Fish Algae wafers

    Lower quality manufactured foods often will have fillers and are not ideal as the primary source of a goldfish’s diet. There are other prepared foods that manufacturers make that fall into our next category.

    Meat (Inverts and Insects)

    Daphnia

    Goldfish love insects and shrimp. These types of food are rich in protein and can be given live, frozen, or freeze dried. The best prepared goldfish foods will often contain these:

    • Bloodworms
    • Blackworms
    • Ghost shrimp
    • Brine shrimp
    • Squid
    • Tubifex Worm
    • Daphnia
    • Crickets
    • Mealworms

    Vegetables

    Vegetables are a crucial part of goldfish food. The following are vegetables you can feed your goldfish. It’s always best to steam vegetables to sterilize them prior to putting in your fish tank.

    • Shelled peas
    • Leafy greens such as spinach, lettuce, chard, kale
    • Diced broccoli (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced corn (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced carrots (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced zucchini (microwaved or boiled)
    • Cooked rice

    Don’t believe me? See these Goldfish in action feeding on spinach in Big Fish Little Fish Aquatics video below:

    Aquatic plants are also included in this list. Goldfish eat aquatic plants. The cheapest ones to try are Anacharis and duckweed.

    Fruits

    Yes, goldfish love fruits too! Here are their favorites:

    • Grapes (skinned and chopped)
    • Cucumber slices (boiled or microwaved)
    • Watermelon (sliced)
    • Orange (sliced)
    • Apple
    • Banana
    • Stawberries
    • Raspberries
    • Mangos
    • Pears

    Pros and Cons of Different Food Types

    The diet you can provide adult goldfish pets can be divided into four main categories

    • Flake food
    • Pellet Food
    • Frozen Food
    • Live Food

    The last two categories are where vegetables and insects tend to be included. Let us have a look at the benefits and drawbacks of each goldfish food class.

    Flake Food

    Flake Food

    Flake goldfish food is the most commonly sought fish food as it is convenient. It is usually a mixture of many ingredients.

    It floats in your goldfish tank and gradually falls to the bottom. Dry flake food tends to be very high in protein, which all fish need. However, they should not be the only food you give to your goldfish. Poor quality flake food can contain lots of fillers, which can cause serious health issues for your goldfish such as bloat.

    Pros

    • Affordable and easy to find in any pet store or aquarium supply store
    • It can be dispensed through an auto feeder
    • High quality fish flakes can be found with a large roster of nutrients
    • Perfect for feeding a large number of fish simultaneously
    • Small size is easy for your goldfish to nibble on

    Cons

    • Does not provide adequate nutrition in most cases
    • Cannot be dosed with vitamins
    • Uneaten food will dissolve quickly and pollute the goldfish’s tank water
    • Some fish accidentally gulp large quantities of air along with the food

    Pellet Food

    Like fish flakes, pellet food is available in a large variety and can be fed to many different fishes.

    And the more you’re willing to spend; the more nutritious your goldfish’s pellets will be. However, unlike flakes, pellets are heavier and tend to sink instead of float, although you can find floating varieties.

    Pros

    • Their size makes it easier for goldfish to swallow without also ingesting large amounts of air
    • Since fish food pellets tend to sink, they can be fed easily to bottom feeders
    • High end food pellets tend to be packed with more nutrition than high end flakes
    • Easier to measure the amount of fish pellets
    • Pellets have a longer shelf life than flakes
    • It can easily be used with good automatic feeders

    Cons

    • Like flakes, pellets can dissolve quickly and pollute the tank water
    • Your fish might accidentally eat substrate when foraging for pellets in it

    There are many solid brands for goldfish pellets like Saki-Hikari, Blue Ridge (for pond goldfish), and Hikari. NorthFin is a great brand to start with as it’s affordable and high quality.

    My Pick
    Northfin Goldfish Formula

    The Best Goldfish Pellet

    Specially designed for goldfish and free from fillers

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    Frozen / Freeze Dried Food

    Frozen and freeze dried foods offer some of the best healthy offerings for your fish.Frozen foods are generally only available at local fish stores. Look for well known brands like Hikari or San Francisco Bay Brand. For freeze dried, I’m a fan of California black worms with vita-chem.

    Pros

    • Frozen and freeze dried food contains a large amount of protein, which your fish needs
    • Usually not mixed with other chemicals/vitamins except phosphorus
    • Strengthens your fish’s immune system
    • It helps to promote a healthy and vivid coloration for your fish

    Cons

    • Prone to dissolving and affecting tank water
    • Frozen food must be stored in a freezer

    Live Food

    Any live food you give your goldfish will probably be their favorite ingredient in their diet. However, it’s important to remember that live food should make up only one part of your fish’s diet and not be the whole of it. Home cultivation of live foods is the safest way to obtain it, but it’s not for everyone.

    Pros

    • Live food is rich in nutritets and promotes healthy gut bacteria.
    • It closely mimic what fish eat in the wild
    • They are natural, not processed
    • It can help you with setting up breeding conditions
    • You can grow and cultivate live food by yourself
    • Great for working with finicky eaters
    • It tastes much better to goldfish compared to processed flakes/pellets

    Cons

    • Live foods are much more expensive than store bought foods (unless you raise your own)
    • It has a short shelf life
    • Messy to cultivate (and likely considered gross by your significant other or roommates ๐Ÿ˜…!)
    • Some live foods can carry and pass on diseases to your fish

    Gel Foods

    A type of fish food recently growing in popularity are gel foods. These fish foods are available in powder form and must be mixed with water to produce a gel like consistency.

    Pros

    • Gel fish foods automatically sink to the bottom of the tank, so your fish are less likely to swallow air when ingesting the food
    • Their moist texture makes gel foods easier for fish to digest
    • They have a high vegetable and protein content
    • Pollutes tank water noticeably less than do other food types
    • It can be stored in a fridge for up to 2 weeks

    Cons

    • Gel foods smell bad when boiled
    • Has to be prepared in batches
    • Expensive
    My Pick
    Repashy Goldfish Gel Food

    Gel foods are a new development in the fish food industry. This food by Repashy includes a mix of inverts like krill and plant matter like Spirulina. Give it a try!

    Buy On Amazon

    What Do They Eat Besides Fish Food?

    In terms of “human food,” you can feed your goldfish any of the fruits, vegetables, or live food that we have discussed above.

    Remember that these foods should be offered to your goldfish at least once a week. You can also create your own recipes for your goldfish. We really like this instructional video by ThinFrog for homemade goldfish food. You can even eat this mix yourself ๐Ÿ˜Š

    More importantly, it’s of crucial importance to give them a balanced diet. Read more about that below.

    Diet

    It’s imperative to give your goldfish a varied diet if you want them to be healthy, live long, retain their coloring, and prevent digestive issues like bloat.

    A good staple tank diet can consist of goldfish flakes, pellets, and granules, supplemented with live foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and worms (you can find the full list of these foods above).

    The inclusion of vegetables is also essential. Shelled peas, duckweed, shredded lettuce, diced carrotsโ€”goldfish will eat almost anything (once again, the full list can be found above)!

    Meanwhile, the freeze-dried food you give to your goldfish will constitute their carbohydrate needs.

    Including floating flakes and sinking pellets in your goldfish diet is a good idea if you have many goldfish in your tank because then all your goldfish can eat equally. Remember, goldfish feed at all aquarium levels.

    Nutrition

    Here’s a breakdown of the nutritional values you should be aiming to fulfill when you feed goldfish.

    Protein

    It is the primary nutrient required by goldfish, who need a large amount of protein in their diet.

    Protein should make up about 30% to 45% of a goldfish’s diet. Balancing proteins with roughage is essential. This can either be achieved with insect and invert chitin or from fruits and vegetables. I covered chitin and roughage in my Malawi Bloat article. The same principles exist with goldfish and matter more due to their genetic modifications.

    Plant protein is easier for your goldfish to digest than animal protein (e.g., brine shrimp), but they do take well to live foods.

    Fat

    A goldfish needs about 5-10% of fat in its diet.

    Vitamins

    Goldfish require the A, D, and K vitamins to grow, as well as folic acid. Thankfully, most goldfish can produce their own required vitamins, but you might have to provide supplements now and then.

    Minerals

    Goldfish need minerals in small quantities. They get it directly from the water, so you don’t have to provide it.

    Carbohydrate and Fiber

    Goldfish require low amounts of fiber and carbohydrates. Carbs will usually be supplied by the flakes and pellets you give them, and fibers can be had from live plants.

    Checking Fish Food Nutrition Contents

    When looking at manufactured foods, it is important to check the nutritional analysis and contents of what you are purchasing. Let’s look at an example from Repashy’s gel formula:

    Sample Nutritional Guide

    Here we see that the protein and fat mix are in the ranges we want. Next we need to look at the ingredients.

    Sample Ingredients Fish Food

    Looking at the ingredients, I see a mix of animal matter (Krill, Squid, Egg, Fly larvae), a mix of veggies (Spirulina, Rice, Kelp), and fruits (Watermelon, Banana). This food is checking off the list of everything we want in a balanced goldfish diet.

    How Often to Feed

    Goldfish owners should feed their pets twice a day, but always according to a set routine. It is important because it helps your goldfish stick to a routine and regulates their diet accordingly.

    When it’s feeding time, it’s also fun to watch the little ones get more active and gather near the usual feeding spot. But don’t get taken in when they do this outside of feeding time, because as we keep saying, one of the big no-nos is overfeeding your goldfish.

    The next question is how much to feed your goldfish. You should only give your goldfish as much food as they can finish within 2-3 minutes; any more than that, and you risk overfeeding them and overloading your filtration.

    The Don’ts of Feeding

    Here are some guidelines on what not to do when feeding your goldfish.

    Do Not Overfeed

    Even if you think your goldfish can eat more after you’ve fed them, resist the urge to give them more food.

    Remember, goldfish are greedy little things, and they don’t know when to stop eating, and they willbloat themselves if you allow it (fish even eat their own fish eggs).

    If you notice that your goldfish are looking a little swollen, you can safely assume that they’re probably bloated.

    Another way of knowing whether you’ve overfed your fish is to look out for a dirty tank. If the tank gets dirty quickly, your fish are producing too much waste.

    Do Not Leave Uneaten Food in the Water

    Remember, goldfish should not be given any more food than they can eat in 2 minutes or less.

    So, if there’s any uneaten food leftover in the aquarium after those 2 minutes are up, you should remove the food manually.

    Otherwise, it will disintegrate and dissolve, affecting water quality and, to an extent, making it uninhabitable. Too much waste in the tank water is one of the leading causes of goldfish death.

    Do Not Feed Too Much in Colder Temperatures

    If the water temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit or 8 degrees Celsius, feed your goldfish a smaller amount than you usually would. Goldfish are homoeothermic, meaning they can’t digest food as easily at lower water temperatures. This will typically apply to goldfish in ponds.

    Do Not Feed Bread

    In film and television, people are often seen feeding goldfish crumbs of bread. Do not do this. Bread swells inside the intestines and causes bloating.

    Do Not Feed Fatty Food

    Mammalian fats, e.g., fat from meat or beef heart, should not be fed to fish as they cannot digest it properly.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Do they eat mosquito larvae?

    Yes. In the wild, goldfish will readily eat any insect larvae they find, and this, of course, includes mosquitoes.

    Do they eat shrimp?

    They absolutely do! Shrimp are one of their favorite foods and should be offered live, frozen, or freeze dried.

    Do they eat snails?

    They do. If you want to feed your goldfish snails, you have many options to choose from. However, it’s for this very reason that you should not keep snails as pets in the same aquarium as your goldfish.

    How long can they go without food?

    One goldfish will be able to survive from 1 to 2 weeks without being fed. If you’ll be unavailable to feed them for some time, why not get a neighbor or friend to feed them? Alternatively, you can use an automatic fish feeder, but the only type of food they’re compatible with are flakes and pellets.

    Do they have teeth?

    Yes, but they don’t look like what you might expect, and neither are the teeth positioned where you would expect. Goldfish teeth what are called pharyngeal teeth. They are flat in shape and help the goldfish to disintegrate their food. These teeth can be found at the back of a goldfish’s throat.

    Do they eat other fish?

    Goldfish aren’t a naturally predatory type of fish, as long as they are well fed. However, since they do eat most things that fit in their mouth, goldfish are liable to eat their smaller tank mates.

    How often should I feed my them?

    Goldfish should be fed 2-3 times a day. Maintaining a routine will allow your aquatic babies to get accustomed to being fed at a certain time and complement their health. Be careful not to overfeed your goldfish because doing so can cause bloat or other illnesses like swim bladder problems.

    Closing Thoughts

    What do goldfish eat? As we’ve seen, goldfish foods come in a huge variety. Don’t just stick to processed food; remember to switch it up and give them a varied diet by including fruits and vegetables. That’s how you get some healthy, happy goldfish.

    And remember, never overfeed, and never leave uneaten food in the tank. Also, look out for large amounts of waste. Leave us comment below if youโ€™ve had any success incorporating these tips into your own routine so that we can share the good news with other goldfish owners out there.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How to prevent and treat Malawi bloat in your cichlids

    How to prevent and treat Malawi bloat in your cichlids

    Malawi bloat is one of the most dreaded conditions in the African cichlid hobby, and I’ve seen it take fish quickly when it’s not caught early. The insidious part is that by the time the swelling is obvious, you’re often already behind. Understanding the dietary triggers โ€” primarily too much protein and not enough plant matter for mbuna โ€” is the key to prevention, and that’s where most keepers go wrong.

    Malawi Bloat is a term that strikes fear into the hearts of cichlid keepers all over the world. Yes, this is a serious and often fatal illness but you don’t have to lose hope, if caught early enough, treatment is often possible. In this article, we’ll cover the identification, causes, and treatment of this illness so that you know what to look out for, and what to do if it affects your fish.

    Overview of Malawi Bloat

    NameMalawi Bloat
    Common TreatmentsMetronidazole, Epsom salt
    CausesHexmitia and secondary bacterial infections. Poor diet and stress
    Common SymptomsLoss of appetite/spitting out food, Hiding, Stringy white feces, Bloated belly/Dropsy, Lifted scales

    What is Malawi Bloat In Fish?

    Malawi Bloat is a pretty common, but serious illness that mostly affects African cichlids from East African lakes like Lake Malawi and Lake Tanganyika. This problem isn’t limited to African species from the rift lakes, however, and other tropical fish can also be affected.

    Malawi bloat is a disease of the fish’s digestive system that causes swelling and eventually death after a matter of days if left untreated.

    What Does Bloat Look Like?

    In its early stages, Malawi bloat causes some behavioral changes like hiding and a lack of appetite in your cichlid. You might also see, long, stringy white feces hanging from your fish.

    The physical appearance of Malawi cichlid Bloat in its more advanced stages is a bloated/swollen belly that looks like dropsy. The scales of the fish might also lift up, and there might be red markings around its vent. Here is an example of a fish that is recovering from bloat. This was the best video I could find without scaring folks. It’s from Universal Cichlids’ YouTube channel.

    Malawi Bloat isn’t the only cause of a swollen abdomen in cichlids, however, so don’t panic too soon. Often, your fish may simply be overfed or constipated. If a bloated cichlid is still eating, you’re in luck, it is highly unlikely to have Malawi Bloat.

    What Causes Bloat?

    The general consensus on the medical cause of Malawi Bloat is an increase in numbers of a protozoan parasite in the gut of fish. These protozoan parasites, or flagellates as they are also known, are tiny creatures that live in all fish and don’t usually cause any serious harm. The culprit that is to blame for bloat is called Hexmitia. I’ll leave a scholarly article at the bottom of this post that discusses Hexmitia more in detail.

    There is also some reason to believe that Malawi Bloat can progress into a bacterial infection, although this is likely to be a result of the increased parasite load that is already causing illness. Some keepers believe the disease is caused primarily by a bacterial infection like dropsy.

    The fact of the matter is that there isn’t (at the time of writing anyway) a universally accepted cause.

    You may be wondering why parasites and bacteria that occur naturally in your fish could become such a huge problem all of a sudden, and the simple answer is stress. When your fish is under stress, its immune system becomes compromised and parasites and bacteria that are usually kept in check start to multiply.

    There are many possible causes of stress, or stressors, for your fish. Some of the most important stressors are:

    Poor Diet

    Feeding high protein diets to herbivorous fish is thought to be a possible cause of Malawi Bloat. Whether it can be directly linked to the disease is not known for sure, but a poor diet is definitely a stressor in any fish.

    Always research the natural diet of your fish to find out if they are herbivorous, carnivorous, or omnivorous. Remember, if they don’t eat meat in the wild, it shouldn’t be on top of the menu in your tanks. Though this is a highly debated topic regarding protein, the real underlining matter is how much roughage the fish is eating. This can come in the form of protein, such as the chitin from arthropods like brine shrimp and krill.

    I know it can be difficult to work with frozen food, so I can point you to a pellet that works. This fish food is crated by Ron Demers, an African Cichlid breeder with over 25 years experience. He developed his food line to have the balance of proteins, veggies, and minerals. He removes all the fillers that you would get from lower quality foods. This is about as good as you can get with pellet food.

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    Roughage, like with humans are needed to maintain a healthy digestive system. It would make sense you would want this to for your African cichlids. Manufactured foods like flake food will not contain the essential roughage. You will want to seek out more natural and raw foods.

    Poor Water Quality

    This is a big one folks, and there are quite a few possible causes of poor water conditions in your aquarium.

    Inadequate filtration often causes poor water quality in fish tanks. A good filter in a properly stocked and cycled aquarium should keep your ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in check. A filter that can process 4 to 6 times the volume of your aquarium is generally advised. Cichlids are larger, active, and tough on a bioload. One should be looking at upgrading their filtration with quality biological media and filters with large media capacity like canister filters.

    Even with the right filter, you should be careful not to feed too much fish food and clean your tank regularly. Get into the habit of performing routine partial water change to keep your water conditions safe.

    Water Parameters

    Aquarium water chemistry is very important to keeping healthy, happy cichlids and you should always strive to keep parameters like pH, GH, and KH as close to your fish’s ideal values as possible. Be sure to use a water conditioner when adding new water to your aquarium during a water change and use aquarium salt as little as possible as this is thought to be a possible cause of Malawi Bloat. Keep your nitrates at management levels to also reduce the stress on your fish and monitor with aquarium test kits.

    Other parameters like incorrect water temperature, low oxygen levels, too much water flow, and unnatural and irregular lighting can also be very stressful for your aquarium fish.

    Stocking

    Stocking your tank with incompatible species can be a major source of stress and aggression for your fish. Cichlids tend to be territorial and many species are very aggressive in defending their territories, often injuring or even killing other fish in the tank. This aggression is a major cause of stress.

    When stocking your fish tank, make sure that all the fish in the tank are comfortable in the same water parameters and make sure that the species you choose are compatible. With many cichlids, you will need to get the ratio of males and females right to avoid aggression.

    Tank Layout

    The layout of your tank can also have a pretty big effect on the well-being of your aquarium fish. Species that prefer to live in open water can easily become stressed in a crowded tank for example, or a bare tank without hiding spaces can also cause significant stress to fish that live in very rocky areas with a lot of structure.

    Any one of these stressors could result in complications for your fish, and often the problem can be made even worse by a combination of factors. As a rule, always do your best to limit all of the stressors mentioned here. It could go a long way towards preventing most of the problems you might pick up in your tanks.

    Identification And Symptoms

    In the initial stages of Malawi cichlid Bloat, the signs that you have sick fish are mostly changes in behavior like:

    • Lack of appetite
    • Spitting out food
    • reduced activity
    • Increased breathing rate

    One of the tell-tale symptoms is the feces of the fish will be clear or white-ish and stringy, remaining attached for long periods of time. Normal feces can also occur in long strands but it will be thicker and darker in color. Fish may also struggle to stay right-side-up and may have problems with buoyancy.

    If you notice one or more of these symptoms in your aquarium fish, it’s time to act. By the time the disease becomes physically visible, sadly it’s often too late. When the disease becomes advanced, the gut area will swell up, often massively. This is where the term bloat comes from.

    Other common physical signs of Malawi Bloat are:

    • Ulcers on the skin
    • Red marks around the vent
    • Lifted scales

    Treatment

    If you’ve spotted some of the symptoms of Malawi Bloat in your cichlids, act immediately by moving the infected fish to a hospital tank for treatment. If more than one individual is affected, you may wish to treat the entire tank instead.

    Do a water test to check all parameters and look for any sign of other stressors in the aquarium. Try to fix any problems you find and go ahead and perform a large water change of up to 40% or so.

    Medication

    In the past, aquarists often made use of a product known as Mardel Clout for the treatment of Malawi Bloat. Unfortunately, this product has been discontinued and is no longer available.

    Currently, the most popular medicine for the treatment of Malawi cichlid bloat is Metronidazole, commonly known as Metro. This is an antibiotic that works on certain bacterial and parasitic protozoan infections.

    This drug is commonly sold as Metroplex, Flagyl, or Octozin. It is also used in the treatment of another common parasite-caused illness of freshwater aquarium fish known as hole in the head, or head and lateral line erosion.

    Metronidazole can be administered in two ways, orally, or dosed in the water column. Of course, a sick fish affected by Malawi bloat will not eat and so you’re probably going to need to administer treatment through the water column.

    At the same time, it is a good idea to feed your other fish a medicated food to prevent any more cases or treat them before they get serious. Again, Metronidazole-soaked food is the best option, even if the other fishes aren’t showing any symptoms.

    A great method for preparing medicated food is to use a product like Seachem Metroplex combined with Seachem Focus, which will bind the metroplex with the food and minimize it leaching out in the water. Another great combo is General Cure and Focus.

    Seachem Metronidazole

    Seachem Metro is great to use with focus as a medicated food supplement option

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    To prepare one tablespoon of medicated fish food, Mix one scoop of Metroplex and one scoop of Focus with a little water. Soak your frozen or pellet fish food in the mixture for at least 15 minutes and store this food in a clean container. This medicated fish food can be kept refrigerated or frozen and it should be fed to your fish until any affected fish have recovered, or for up to 3 weeks. Move your affected fish to a hospital tank to keep the disease from spreading and to keep the fish from getting bullied.

    Other Treatments

    You can dissolve Epsom salt into your fish tank water to further assist your fish by decreasing bloating in the digestive system. Use about 1 tablespoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of water in your tank but add it gradually to prevent shock.

    You can also feed your fish peas at this time, which should be boiled lightly and allowed to cool. Peas are known to be a natural laxative for fish. During treatment, keep your lights low because this has a calming effect on your fish.

    If you’ve been successful in your treatment, the symptoms like swelling should subside and the scales should flatten out. Once your fishes have regained their normal, healthy appetite and begin to defecate normally again, you know you’re back on track.

    Another great medication that used to be available was Mardel’s Clout. Unfortunately, it has been banned due to having cancer causing agents. Hoping there can be a replacement in the market eventually as this medication used to be the go to when it came to fighting this disease.

    FAQS

    How do you fix bloat?

    The advised treatment for Malawi cichlid bloat is with the use of an antibiotic known as Metronidazole. This can be done after moving the affected fish to a hospital tank or you can medicate all of the fish if there is more than one case.

    You should try to find the root of the problem if possible and perform a partial water change. It is also helpful to dose the water with Epsom salt.

    Is bloat contagious in fish?

    It is unclear as to whether this disease is contagious but it definitely can affect several individuals in the tank at the same time. This could be explained by all your fish being exposed to the same stressors in their environment at the same, or maybe because of an increased load of bacteria and parasites in the system.

    While there isn’t a clear answer at this time, you are recommended to treat all of your fish with Metronidazole soaked fish food, even if they don’t show any symptoms.

    How do you treat dropsy in cichlids?

    Dropsy is a symptom of various conditions (including Malawi Bloat) that is seen as swelling of the abdomen. The best treatment for this symptom is to medicate with a product containing Metronidazole, dose Epsom salt, and feed boiled peas, as you would with Malawi Bloat.

    Will this type of bloat go away?

    Unfortunately, Malawi Bloat will not clear up without treatment. You should act quickly if you identify this disease in your cichlids because once the condition progresses to the point where symptoms are visible, it is often too late.

    How do you stop cichlids from bloating?

    By far the best way to stop cichlids from bloating is to keep them in a healthy environment that is specifically designed for their needs and to feed them correctly. In the case that Malawi cichlid bloat does occur, don’t beat yourself up about it, it is a common condition that even experienced keepers struggle with from time to time.

    The key is to keep an eye on your fish and their behavior and catch the problem early. Once diagnosed, treat the fish with a product containing Metronidazole and dose the water with Epsom salt.

    References & Further Reading

    When it comes to talking about fish diseases, we should use cited scientific articles when available. Here are several to help educate you on bloat and parasites.

    University of Florida – Management of Hexamita in Ornamental Cichlids

    Klinger, R. & Francis-Floyd, R. Introduction To Freshwater Fish Parasites. University Of Florida, IFAS Extension

    Francis-Floyd, R. Stress-Its Role In Fish Disease. University Of Florida, IFAS Extension

    Conclusion

    Malawi Bloat is a serious disease that often affects African cichlids and other aquarium fish. Itโ€™s important to remember that bloat is very scary and can happen at any time. This article has provided you with a number of tips on how to prevent it as well, but if your fish does get bloated there are some medications that will be effective in treating the disease. We encourage everyone who reads this blog post to leave us their thoughts below about what they think causes malawi bloat or anything else they might want more information on. Happy reading!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Goldfish temperature – what, how and why

    Goldfish temperature – what, how and why

    Ah, goldfish temperature. This is such a contested topic. An oft-repeated adage about goldfish is that they are cold water fish, and therefore should not be put in warm water. This is somewhat untrue.

    You might not know this, but Goldfish can live in water of different temperatures. But whatโ€™s the range? What temperature is best for a goldfish? Why does it matter so much? Goldfish are some of the hardiest fish you will find, yes. And because of this, they certainly can survive at colder temperatures, but that’s not always the ideal setting for them to thrive in.

    In actuality, putting your goldfish in water of the wrong temperature can have irreversible adverse effects, and might even lead to death. You also have to take other factors into account, such as the species.

    In this article, weโ€™re covering everything you need to know about goldfish temperature. Let’s get started!

    What’s The Best Goldfish Temperature?

    The correct water temperature for a goldfish isnโ€™t so easy to figure out given that they can live in a wide range of temperatures. However, for all intents and purposes I’ll give a quick and general answer:

    The ideal water temperature goldfish will thrive in is between 65 and 72 degrees F / 18 to 24 degrees C.

    Now, the temperature range mentioned above is a general range for all goldfish. But it’s important to remember that these fish are mainly divided into two main categories: fancy and slim-bodied. And knowing about fish types will help you to determine the right water temperature range more easily.

    Letโ€™s have a look at the differences between the two types, and the associated temperature conditions.

    What is a Fancy Breed?

    What is a fancy goldfish

    Also called egg-shaped goldfish, fancy goldfish are characterized by their uniquely beautiful, sometimes bizarre, appearance. These double-tailed fish typically have round bodies resembling golf balls.

    The main deal with fancy goldfish is that they are more modifiedโ€”genetically speakingโ€”than slim-bodied goldfish. Itโ€™s also important to understand that these fancy fish are much more prone to freshwater fish diseases if their tank environment is incorrect.

    As such, these goldfish need more specific temperature and living conditions, and are better suited to tank living than pond living. They can’t survive in a wide range of temperatures, and as such, they should also not be kept in a tank with overly cold water — or water that is too warm.

    Here are some of the most commonly kept goldfish of the fancy variety:

    What is a Slim-Bodied Breed?

    What is a slim bodied goldfish

    If you know about comets and shubunkins, you already know what slim-bodied goldfish are. They are one of the most popular choices for novice aquarists. They are much more hardy, fast, and athletic than their fancy counterparts. This allows them to do pretty well in varying tank water qualities and cooler tank temperatures. This suitability to various water conditions makes them suitable for living outdoors. In fact, it’s actually recommended to keep certain slim-bodied goldfish in a pond instead of a tank, because they can grow quite large in size.

    Many people wrongly think that slim-bodied goldfish aren’t as attractive as the fancy kind, but this is untrue. You will find many common goldfish with unique and appealing physical traits, such as large nostrils, distinctive head growth, funny eyes and flowing fins. They also come in a variety of colors.

    Here are the best known fish in this category:

    Fancy vs Slim-bodied Temp Requirements

    Slim-bodied vs Fancy Goldfish

    Now that you know more about the differences between fancy and slim-bodied goldfish varieties, you can probably begin to guess that they have differing tank requirements when it comes to water temperature.

    Compared to other fish, goldfish of the slim-bodied variety are much better able to withstand fluctuating temperature changes and environments, such conditions would not only stress out a fancy goldfish but even put them at risk of death.

    So, it ultimately comes down to this:

    Fancy goldfish should be kept at a tank temperature between 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit if you want them to have a long and healthy life.

    In contrast, slim-bodied goldfish, as we have already established, are much better able to withstand colder water temperatures resembling those of outdoor ponds. They need a tank temperature between 65 and 72 degrees F, but have the ability to survive winters outdoors and can tolerate higher temperatures better.

    Indoor vs Pond Temp Differences

    Goldfish are exothermic, which means that their surrounding temperature determines their body temperature. They absorb and release energy from and into the waterโ€”which means the bodily functions of this fish are entirely dependent upon the water temperature being correct.

    Digestion, immune system, respirationโ€”these are all metabolic functions that are directly affected by water temp. The higher the goldfish water temperature in your tank, the faster these processes will be.

    So, for goldfish kept in a tank with a temperature of 75 degrees, for example, you’ll have to provide 5-10 times more food than those kept in an outdoor pond where the temperature might be as low as, say, 58 degrees. In fact, they can actually get much colder. In this example video below by David Cook, his pond froze over and water temperature was around 41 degrees F. You can see the fish are exhibiting dormancy and we can see slim-bodied goldfish in the pond.

    When it comes to indoor tank temperatures, you also have to take into consideration the toxicity of ammonia concentration. When the water temperature is higher, the likelihood of poisoning from toxicity in the tank is higher. This becomes a bigger issue in aquariums as the overall tank volume is lower.

    Household Temperature Requirements

    Homehold Temperature Requirements

    For fish that youโ€™re keeping in home aquariums, itโ€™s important to take into account the temp range of your household. As a rule, aquarium water is at least 2 degrees warmer than room temperature1, so you need to take steps to cool your aquarium water by other means. This is particularly true if youโ€™re keeping your pet in a warm climate.

    First, ensure that your goldfish tank or tanks are not placed near direct sunlight. Next, you have the option of using your existing air conditioner or ceiling fan to cool the water (in the latter case, itโ€™s recommended to remove the goldfish tank lid to allow the water to cool faster).

    Alternatively, if you have money to spare, you might want to look into investing in an aquarium fan or a mobile AC for your fish. Some people like to float ice packs in their goldfish tank, but we donโ€™t recommend this as it can change the tank temperature too much too fastโ€”and that can lead to temperature shock for your pet.

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    Working through your room temperature is the best way to manage heater. An aquarium chiller is a consideration, but typically very expensive and not as versatile as a mobile AC solution that can function as a backup system in the event your central AC unit goes down.

    Temperature Shock and How to Deal With It

    Sudden tank temperature fluctuations can lead to your fish experiencing temperature shock. Changes of even 2 degrees can shock your fish. So, when youโ€™re performing water changes, itโ€™s crucial that you ensure the new water is within 2 degrees of the old water. For this, itโ€™s recommended that you use a digital aquarium thermometer to measure the water temperature.

    Now, itโ€™s a very important part of goldfish care to know when your fish might be suffering from temperature shock. Here are the most common symptoms, which are similar to those of oxygen deficiency:

    • Sitting at the bottom
    • Rapid breathing
    • Lethargy / aimless floating
    • Excess slime production
    • Buoyancy problems
    • Gulping at the surface (insufficient oxygen).

    If you think your fish have been afflicted by temperature shock, donโ€™t do a big water change to set things right. This can be counterproductive and actually over-stress your fish anew. Gradually bring the water temperature up if it has gone down.

    In the case of an overheated aquarium, you can follow the steps we outlined in the above section to quickly but manageably bring the temperature back down. This includes using a fan or air conditioner, or floating a frozen pack in the goldfish water. But be careful of not making the situation worse.

    If you live in a climate where you continually face problems of too-hot fish tanks, you might want to consider getting an aquarium chiller for your fish, if you can cover the cost.

    Do They Need an Aquarium Heater?

    Once again, this depends on the type of goldfish you have, as well as your surrounding climate. Fancy varieties can certainly benefit from the stability of an aquarium heater if the temperature tends to fluctuate in your tank, or if your home is located in a cold environment, or ifย  the temperature is below 68 ยฐF (or 20ยฐC).

    You don’t have to get a tank heater for most slim-bodied goldfish. These guys can usually take good care of themselves and are very adaptable.

    Does Water Temperature Affect Breeding?

    Absolutely. The temperature of goldfish water determines their reproductive abilities. Male fish release higher amounts of androgen, a reproductive hormone, during spring time, and less of it during winter. This is because larvae are more likely to survive in spring temperatures. So it stands to reason that, if youโ€™re interested in goldfish breeding, you need to recreate these environment conditions.

    Start by lowering the temperature gradually to around 54ยฐF or 12ยฐC. Then, to induce breeding, slowly raise the temperature to 68 ยฐF โ€“ 74ยฐF (or 20ยฐC โ€“ 23ยฐC). This should help you induce breeding behaviors in your goldfish.

    Closing Thoughts

    The water conditions and temperatures at which you keep your aquatic pets greatly impacts their health and capabilities. If you want a more low-maintenance fish, we would not recommend getting yourself a fancy goldfish since they require stricter temperature conditions. But for slim-bodied fish, you should be prepared to keep them in an outdoor pond.

    Also remember that the temperature of the water in your tank should also be suitable for the other fish inhabiting it. So choose your goldfish tank mates wisely.

    If you have any questions about caring for goldfish or want more information on them feel free leave us a comment below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    Jewel cichlids are one of those fish where the name really does justice to the animal โ€” the iridescent red and blue coloration on a healthy specimen is genuinely stunning. I’ve kept them and they’re hardy, bold fish with a lot of personality. The one thing I always emphasize: they’re aggressive, especially during breeding, and tankmate selection requires real thought or you’ll have problems.

    If you’ve been researching different species of cichlids, the jewel cichlid may, quite understandably, have caught your eye. Now, despite its undeniable beauty, the jewel cichlid gets a bad rap due to its semi-aggressive temperament.

    For many aquarists who wish to maintain a peaceful community tank, adding a jewel cichlid might not be worth it. However, keeping jewel cichlids is not only fun and rewarding, itโ€™s also a great way to liven up your aquarium. Although their temperament might pose a problem to novice aquarists, the jewel cichlid is a worthwhile pet.

    Wondering whether a jewel cichlid is worth putting in your home aquarium? Let our jewel cichlid care guide help you decide.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameHemichromis bimaculatus
    Common NamesJewel cichlid, jewel fish, African jewelfish
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginAfrica
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerately active to active
    Lifespan5 – 7 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive (Aggressive when breeding)
    Tank LevelMid to top level
    Minimum Tank Size30 gallons
    Temperature Range70ยฐF to 74ยฐF
    KHNeutral to soft; below 12 dKH
    pH Range7.0 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingMouth Brooders
    Difficulty to BreedEasy to breed; forms breeding pairs easily
    CompatibilitySpecies only or aggressive tank
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    Origins and Habitat

    The jewel cichlid Hemichromis bimaculatus originates in West Africa. This is where the fish inhabit richly vegetated freshwater bodies like streams, rivers, and lakes. Jewel cichlids have also been documented in some parts of North Africa.

    Because these water bodies are teeming with other cichlids and don’t offer a wide variety of sustenance, they are very competitive habitats. This explains why these jewel fish are naturally aggressive and territorial.

    What Does the they Look Like?

    How Does A Jewel Cichlid Look Like

    The coloration of the jewel cichlid species varies widely. You’ll find them mostly in a bright orange-tinted red with vibrant white spots (this is the blood red jewel cichlid), but many are also colored purple with contrasting greenish spots (green jewel fish).

    This color will be intensified during the breeding season. During this time, you’ll also notice a longer ventral, anal, and dorsal fin. Some say that male cichlids have a brighter coloration than their female counterparts. 

    How Big Are They?

    Jewel cichlids may vary greatly in size, from as little as 3 inches to as large as 6 inches. In an aquarium, the size of this fish will be smaller than in the wild.ย 

    How Long Do Hemichromis bimaculatus Live?

    On average, a cichlid of this kind can be expected to live up to 5 years. If youโ€™re able to provide superior tank conditions and provide a perfectly balanced diet, your jewelfish might even live up to 7 years. This is rare, however.ย 

    Temperament and Activity Level

    The hemichromis bimaculatus is recognizable by its aggressive behavior. Particularly when it is stressed or underfed, a jewelfish is more likely to lash out and attack his/her tank mates. Breeding season is when the fish reaches the height of its aggression.

    This might all sound very scary, but for the committed aquarist, it’s actually not that difficult to ensure a stress-free environment for this freshwater fish โ€” as long as tank requirements are strictly maintained. The best thing to curb aggression is space and lots of shelter. If you have a small tank, with lots of fish, and no shelter, your Jewel Cichlids will be more aggressive as they fight to claim limited territory.

    Generally, your jewel cichlid fish will be seen flitting back and forth across the water. They are also very active fish who like to dig at their substrate, looking for food.

    Jewel cichlids are also monogamous, which means they form a breeding pair for life. If your jewel fish are in a pair, donโ€™t be surprised to see them together most of the time! 

    What are Good Tankmates?

    It might seem like a bad idea to include any tank mates for your jewelfish, fin nippers as they are. Well, you should listen to your instincts. Don’t put them in a community tank. These freshwater fish are best off in a species only or cichlid tank.  

    Good Tank Mates

    Despite their bad reputation, some jewelfish can, in fact, cohabit peacefully with certain other semi-aggressive species. Accordingly, here are some fish that might make acceptable mates for your jewelfish.

    • Clown loaches
    • Plecos
    • Electric blue acaras
    • Redtail shark
    • Syndontis catfish
    • Scavenger catfish
    • Leopard bullfish

    All the fish above are at your own risk. Your safest bet is other jewel cichlid in a species only tank. A pleco may work in such a setup. They are extremely territorial once they get in breeding mode.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    When selecting home aquarium tank mates for your jewel cichlid, itโ€™s best to avoid all fish species if you can, except a few semi-aggressive fish mentioned above.

    In particular, peaceful aquarium fish species (for example, any goldfish species) should be avoided at all costs, as your jewelfish will harm them and might even eat or kill them. MBunas and Rift Lake Cichlids should be avoided as they are likely to be attacked and killed. 

    What Do Jewelfish Eat?

    Feeding jewel cichlids is fairly easy. As omnivorous freshwater fish, jewel fish will readily eat pellets, flake food, and live food as well.

    You should aim to provide as balanced a diet as possible. This means mixing and matching different food types. You can also consider giving them vegetables such as lettuce leaves and spirulina. Frozen foods are alright once a week. If feeding pellets or flakes, consider one that contains probiotics like the Cobalt Aquatics line.

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    What about Live Foods?

    Bloodworms, white worms, tubifex, and frozen baby brine shrimp are great live foods for jewel cichlids. Limit providing live foods to once a week.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    You should aim to feed your jewel cichlids at least twice a day. Be careful not to overfeed them, however, and donโ€™t confuse their voracious eating for constant hunger.

    Feeding your jewel fish properly is crucial if you want them to retain their vivid coloration.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Recreating the Africa habitat or breeding conditions of the jewelfish is not too difficult. Hereโ€™s all you need to know about how to set up the tank of your jewelfish.

     Tank Size

    Jewel Cichlid Pair

    For one pair of jewel cichlids, a tank size of at least 30 gallons is required. For each new pair, add 20 gallons. If you put them in a community aquarium (not recommended), provide a tank divider. When your Jewel Cichlids are in breeding mode, consider removing other tank mates if your tank is on the small side. They are known for taking over 30 and 40 gallon tanks!

    Substrate

    A sandy substrate is best for these fish as they love to dig. Anything sharper might injure them.

    Decor

    Decorations are a necessity when rearing jewel fish, who are territorial and love to claim their own space. Provide rocks and aim to create cave-like conditions. Rocks with holes or caves are ideal to provide shelter.

    Plants

    These fish are curious and active fish who love to dig. So, they might get in the way of your aquarium plants thriving unless the plants are protected by rocks and such. Floating plants and column feeders like Anubias Nana and Java Fern would be good examples of plants that could work.

    Water Quality

    Here are the water conditions you need to ensure for your jewel cichlids

    Filtration

    Provide adequate filtration for your jewel cichlids to ensure that they can enjoy a water flow mimicking the currents of the streams and rivers they’re used to. They are particularly hardy. They do well with your standard power filter

    Water Parameters

    Maintain these water conditions in your home tank to ensure a healthy environment for your jewelfish.

    • Water Temperature: 70ยฐF to 74ยฐF
    • pH Range: 7 to 7.5
    • Hardness Range: Not above 12 dGH
    • Water Movement: Moderate to strong

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Besides ensuring the proper parameters for your cichlid aquarium, conduct regular water changes of 25% – 40%. Remember, the goal is to reduce your jewelfishโ€™s aggression. Otherwise, their lifespan will be shortened.

    How to Breed?

    Breeding this species in tanks is relatively easy once you can determine their sex. As they are monogamous, cichlids form pairs quickly and easily during mating season, and once they are parents, they will stick together.

    Breeding Tank

    You can isolate your cichlid pair in a breeding aquarium, but itโ€™s not necessary if you have just one pair. Gradually raise the water temperature from their regular temperature by a few degrees every day until you reach 80ยฐ to 82ยฐ F (or 26.7ยฐ – 27.8ยฐ C).

    Breeding Behavior

    When the male is ready, his color will become very vibrant, and he will become very aggressive. Like other cichlid species, the male will chase the female about the tank for a little bit until she lays eggs.

    Once sheโ€™s ready, the female will search for the right place to lay her eggs. She will likely settle on a flat surface, typically a flat-faced rock. She might produce up to 500 eggs.

    After Breeding

    Once the eggs are fertilized, they will hatch within 2 to 4 days. After hatching, the jewelfish parents will help each other move their kids to a different part of the aquarium. During this time, the parents will be excessively aggressive in order to defend their young fish. 

    Feeding Fry

    Let the fry absorb the remainder of the egg yolk in the first few days. Afterward, feed them crushed flakes and mashed pellets. Donโ€™t be distressed if the new parents eat some of their offspring. 

    Health and Disease

    Your jewel cichlid is, unfortunately, prone to the illnesses most freshwater cichlids are prone to. Hereโ€™s how to tell whether your jewelfish is healthy or needs care. 

    Signs of Health

    A healthy jewelfish is a happy one. A happy jewelfish is playful and active (might be interpreted as aggression), burrowing in the substrate or flitting about their aquarium. Most significantly, healthy jewelfish retains its vibrant coloration. 

    Signs of Ill Health

    Here’s a list of several common issues you may come across

    •  When a jewelfish is highly stressed, ill, or underfed, it will very likely lose its color. This is one of the most easily seen warning signs of this fish.
    • Swelling, loss of appetite, rapid breathing, and differently colored feces are all symptoms of Malawi bloat, a condition that mostly affects African cichlids.
    • Notice an indentation in the head of your jewel cichlid? He/she is suffering from hexamita, also known as “hole in the head” disease.
    • Look out for ich, which manifests in symptoms like lethargy, loss of appetite, and restless behavior, but most importantly, white spots on the body of the fish.
    • Labored breathing and a loss of color might indicate gill flukes.

    All of these conditions are covered in our freshwater fish diseases post.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    One of the easiest ways to ensure that your jewel fish is healthy is to provide the required tank parameters with care. Feed them regularly, donโ€™t overfeed, and provide a varied diet. This will keep most illnesses at bay.

    Hereโ€™s how to deal with other diseases that might come up:

    • If you think your jewelfish is suffering from Malawi bloat, act quickly. Change the tankโ€™s water and introduce a dose of Metronidazole. However, know that Malawi bloat is a condition that quickly turns fatal, so donโ€™t blame yourself if something goes wrong.
    • Administer the same treatments for ich as you would for other cichlids: increased tank temperature, salt baths, potassium permanganate, acriflavine, and malachite green.
    • If you suspect your fish is suffering from gill flukes, use Praziquantel.

    Where to Buy?

    Compared to other cichlid breeds, the jewelfish might be a little harder to buy in brick-and-mortar pet shops. They might also be a little more expensive. If you cannot find them locally, try using an online fish store. Often times, their guarantee will be superior to what you can find locally.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Female Jewel Cichlid

    Are they aggressive?

    Semi-aggressive, yes. Especially when theyโ€™re in pairs and ready to breed, their aggression is strongest. Once the fry are born, jewel cichlids will defend their offspring to the best of their ability.

    If you must put your jewel cichlids in with other fish, get a tank divider. Even better if you can get a separate tank entirely. And try to ensure large tanks.

    What fish can go with them?

    Put bluntly, it’s best not to put your jewel cichlids in with other fish. If you must, we would recommend other cichlids as tank mates, as well as certain bottom-dwelling semi-aggressive species.

    Can they live with oscars?

    Itโ€™s not impossible, but itโ€™s difficult to achieve harmony between oscars and jewel cichlids. This is not only because oscars are famously aggressive fish; they are also significantly larger than jewel fish. So unless you can provide a large tank (at least 100 gallons), itโ€™s not recommended.

    Can angelfish live with this type of fish?

    Once again, itโ€™s not recommended. Although the jewelfish and angelfish are both cichlids, the latter is somewhat more docile and therefore more prone to being harmed by your jewel fish.

    Are they hard to keep?

    If you want a varied and healthy community tank, jewel cichlids might be more trouble than they are worth. Besides this, these fish are pretty easy to keep, with the right tank size and setup.

    Closing Thoughts

    Even our dearest loved ones are sometimes obnoxious, we donโ€™t stop loving them. Try to adopt the same approach to your jewel cichlids. Maintaining their behavior might be difficult, but maintaining their diet and water parameters is easy โ€” and the end result is definitely rewarding. Good luck!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • The Secrets To Keeping A Planted Aquarium โ€“ An Aquascaper’s Approach

    The Secrets To Keeping A Planted Aquarium โ€“ An Aquascaper’s Approach

    I’ve been keeping planted tanks for over 25 years, and the biggest thing I’ve learned is that success comes down to understanding a few core principles โ€” not collecting more gear or more plants. I’ve set up everything from simple low-tech tanks to high-tech CO2-injected setups, and the fundamentals are what separate thriving planted tanks from the ones that turn into algae disasters within a month. This guide gives you an aquascaper’s honest perspective on what actually matters when keeping a planted aquarium.

    The Basic Question – What Do You Want Out Of A Planted Aquarium?

    This is the number 1 question you need to ask yourself when setting up a planted aquarium. To make it simple for you I will ask you this question

    What Type Of Planted Aquarium Do you Want?

    Are you looking for easy maintenance? Championship level? Do you want one of those crazy planted tanks you see on Pinterest and Instagram? All of this is attainable if you set your goals. It all starts on if you are in the low-tech or high-tech side of the hobby. This all relates to CO2 usage. There are four levels of planted tanks that you should be aware of and they are:

    • Level 1 – Low-tech non-CO2
    • Level 2 – Low-tech CO2 supplementation with SeaChem Excel
    • Level 3 – High-tech CO2 with low light (Most aquascapers will eventually fall here)
    • Level 4 – High-tech CO2 with high intensity lighting

    Before we can go over each level we should understand the role of CO2 in our aquariums.

    Planted Aquariums and CO2

    CO2 levels drives grows in a planted aquarium. It’s not nutrients, proper lighting, or substrates. CO2 is the center and driver to rich, fast, and supple healthy plant growth in your aquarium plants. There are multiple levels of non-CO2 usage and CO2 usage. 50% of plants dry mass is carbon. As we learned in my CO2 System Article, aquatic plants in the wild enjoy evaluated levels of CO2 as high as 50 PPM.

    Since CO2 drives the growth in our planted aquariums, we have to design the rest of our system around it. Let’s next talk about the decision to do CO2 or not.

    To Add or Not to Add CO2

    CO2 Injected Planted Tank

    What do you sacrifice the most when you decide to not use CO2? What you sacrifice is growth and the showcase look. There are plenty of low light aquarium plants that will do well without CO2, however, you will sacrifice their growth rate and thickness by excluding CO2.

    In essence, they are generally living in a non-CO2 environment. These non-CO2 low light plants will grow, but their true potential is unleashed with a CO2 system.

    This is why I recommend even if an aquarist is planning on not using CO2, that they at least consider dosing CO2 using SeaChem Excel. SeaChem Excel functions as an alternative to CO2 injection. While not as effective, Excel will still improve the growth rate of aquarium plants 2 – 4 times versus the traditional 10 – 25 times plant growth rate you will experience with injection.

    Excel dosing puts us in level 2 territory. We can still build plenty of wonderful aquascapes with this and not have to deal with the added complexity and cost of a CO2 system. I am definitely an odd ball compared to many bloggers online, as I do not recommend level 1 if one is getting into planted aquariums. Call me vain, a purist, or spoiled – but I do love me some killer looking aquascapes and I want you to have the ability to enjoy building to that level.

    For those of you looking to do amazing aquascapes and looking to get into reds, stem plants, and lush carpeting plants, CO2 injection is a must. It’s hard to visualize what these aquascapes will look like, so I will explain that later in this post when we get into aquascape styles and examples.

    When it comes to a quality CO2 system, I highly recommend CO2Art. They sell an excellent combo package that gives you all the essentials you need to get start. The box below comes with a inline diffusor, my favorite method of diffusor. I would love a CO2 reactor, but unfortunately those cool looking AquaMedic CO2 reactors can’t be found in the US – so this is the best you can get in the states.

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    Which Substrate is Best?

    When it comes to planted aquascapes the hierarchy I believe in is CO2>Substrate>Lighting>Fertilizer. CO2 drives the 3 others, substrate is our next starting point, planted aquarium lighting pushes CO2 intake, and fertilizer is how we balance everything.

    Substrate comes into planted tanks as this is our base for nutrients for our aquarium plants. Whether you decided on column feeding plants or roots plants, substrate will still play a role. A good substrate for a planted aquarium will be an active, nutrient-rich substrate to serve as a baseline for nutrient uptake for our aquatic plants.

    When it comes to planted tank substrates, many articles you may come across may stop at a basic overview of substrates. I’m going to give you the professional aquascapers view first then break it down to a more realistic senario for beginner. You should always understand the professionals perspective so you know the end goal and why quality investments are key for long term success.

    The secret for professional aquascapers is utilizing a layer system. This layer system is founded on ADA principals and are the following:

    • Layer 1 – Nutrient-Rich Planted Aquarium Power (Base Powder)
    • Layer 2 – Nutrient-Rich Aqua Soil
    • Layer 3 – Inert substrates and decorative caps

    Each layer plays a role in a professional aquascape. Let’s dive in!

    Layer 1 – Nutrient-Rich Substrates (Powder)

    This is the first level in a professional aquascape, This is also known as “power sand” or power soils with ADA being the major brand and benchmark in this field. This fine powder serves as a bottom layer in a planted aquascape. This substrate only covers the first 1.5 inches of the bottom. The rest of the layers will have other substrates.

    The purpose of this power sand is to provide a nutrient rich base to the bottom floor for our rooted and carpeting plants. This will ensure your bottom level has a strong base and can be refreshed with root tabs in the future.

    Unfortunately, ADA power sand is difficult to find online. It is best to purchase from an LFS or directly from AquaForest Aquarium – the main US distributor of ADA products.

    Layer 2 – Nutrient-Rich Aquarium Substrates (Soil)

    Layer 2 are our Aquasoils or our active substrates. This is what many planted aquarium enthusiasts work with. They will work primarily with this soil and spread it across their tank so they can use rooted plants and carpeted plants to cover their aquarium. It is also designed to be sloped and can maintain its shape when doing so. The most famous aqua soil is ADA Amazonia. It is the most nutrient rich and can be difficult for new aquascapers to use.

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    For new aquascapers, Tropica aquasoil is a great alternative that is well proven in Europe and touted by the likes of world famous aquascaper George Farmer.

    If you are working with rooted plants, it is a good idea to use layer 1 and this layer in combination to have a rich base for your aquatic plants to absorb in as they grow. There are DIYers who like to use organic soil as an active substrate. I’m guilty of being a purist, so I won’t cover it in this post, but I will have one of my other aquascapers cover it in a future post.

    The next layer can be decorative or functional

    Layer 3 – Inert Substrates

    Planted Tank With Inert Substrate

    These can have two functions in a planted tank. In a planted aquarium that is low tech with mostly column feeding aquatic plants, this substrate can be spread all across the aquarium to cover the bottom. There are also beginner based substrates like Caribsea Eco Complete that can be use as a functional substrate for beginner friendly rooted tanks.

    The second function is decorative. In a professional aquascape, you will see inert substrates cover the other 2 layers and “cap” the substrates for aesthetic purposes. Other times, the functional layers are separated into sections in the aquascape where layer 1 and 2 are together for carpeting and rooted plants and there is a separate area of the fish tank with the inert substrate that serves as a foreground and an area for bottom dweller fish and shrimp.

    One awesome accent you can do with inert substrates with separate sections is make pathways in the aquascape that make your aquarium look like a living underwater forest. These can create spectacular scapes and are often features you will see in award winning Aquascapes

    Purpose of Lighting

    A proper light has the right PAR, spread, and spectrum. I preach these 3 principles in any aquarium lighting topic I cover.

    PAR

    PAR (or Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is the measurement of light intensity in our aquarium. Quality manufacturers will have done their R&D and will have their PAR figures published for customers to see. PAR levels by plant species varieties. The ones that require the least amount of PAR are known as low-light plants in our tech.

    For PAR, I have this sheet from the Barr Report below that shows you the ranges. The lights I’m going to talk about today will get you in these ranges. Check out my best LED lights for Planted Tanks post for more in-depth detail on PAR.

    PAR for Planted Tanks

    Spectrum

    Spectrum is all about hitting the hitting the desired wavelengths in the Red, Green, and Blue spectrum as shown below from ADA. Spectrum is another complex topic. The lights I’m going to mention below have this covered. To break it down simply, the best lights that hit these desired wavelengths are branded as “RGB” lights in our hobby.

    Spread

    Spread is the last principle. Because these are LEDs, they need to be spread and diffuse. All the best LED systems will have a diffusor built in to work around the limitations of LED as they are naturally focused lights. This prevents shading and ensures even coverage in your fish tank.

    The 4 levels of Lighting Systems

    A high quality light will have all 3 principles checked. When it comes to the plant tank market, I can separate planted aquarium lighting into 4 categories:

    • Level 1 – Entry Level Lights
    • Level 2 – Lights For Dense Planting (Most of you will fall here)
    • Level 3 – Lights For Advanced Aquaccapes
    • Level 4 – Professional Level Lights

    Level 1 – Entry Level Plant Lights

    Entry level lights are for simpler aquascapes. This lights will allow you to keep the low light plants and easier to maintain aquatic plants. These lights will include such lights like the Twinstar B and C Series, Chihiros A-Series and C-2, and the Fluval Planted 3.0.

    Level 2 – Lights for Dense Planting

    This is the level I look at when it comes to Aquascaping. At this level level, you should be able to keep around 3/4 of the live plants available in the trade. If you desire carpeting plants like Monte Carlo and densely planted aquascapes this is where we start.

    For these lights, we look at the Twinstar E Series, Chihiros WRGB, ONF Flat Nano.

    Level 3 – Lights for Advanced Aquascapes

    These are the lights you go to where you want to grow a bunch of harder to care for plants and red plants. These lights have the ideal PAR, Spectrum, and spread and will successfully grow all aquatic plants. Your main concern here is balancing light, CO2, and nutrients so you don’t have a bunch of algae growth. For this range you would be looking at the Twinstar S Series, Chihiros WRGB, Chihiros C2 RBG3, and ONF Flat One+

    Level 4 – Professional Lights

    These are the lights that the pros use and competition entrants. These would include lights like the ADA Solar RGB, Chihiros Vivid 2, and UNS Titan. This lights are not for beginners and requires an advanced understanding of aquascaping.

    For most plant tanks owners. I would recommend you look at level 2 lights.

    Nutrients and Fertilizers

    Aquatic plants use macro and micro nutrients to grow. Macro nurients include Nitrates, Phophate, and Potassium. Micro nutrients include Iron, Manganese, and trace elements. Some plants feed primarily through their leaves, while others are root-feeders. I go through in detail in my best aquarium fertilizer post. The main takeaway are live plants need Macro and Micronutrients and fertilizers supply that in mass planted tanks.

    Fertilizer Requirements

    Every aquarium is unique, so it is advisable to look at your aquatic plants over the course of the first month or two and look for signs of deficiency. Fertilizers come more into play as you use CO2 as the nutrients your fish produce will not be enough for them to grow. Plants use nutrients continuously just like CO2.

    When selecting a good liquid fertilizer, look for a supplement with trace elements such as iron, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. Look for a good ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), otherwise known as the NPK ratio1. Regular water changes also replenish other elements, such as dissolved minerals (calcium, magnesium) and carbonate salts in the water, which are a necessity for fish.

    This is can get super confusing very quick and turn into a massive post. To take out the guesswork, I’ll recommend that you work with daily dosing with a branding all in one liquid fertilizer. The best in the business in my opinion is APT Complete by 2Hr Aquarist. Just follow their instructions and you should be well on your way in A CO2 injected tank. They even back it up with a 100 day guarantee.

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    Filtration

    There are two schools of thought when it comes to planted tanks. The first is what I call the more casual approach where an aquarist feels that you can run a planted aquarium with a massive amount of plants will little or no filtration. The second school of thought is the aquarist that feels that you filtration is the heart of every successful system.

    I fall under the second school of thought. Live plants have the potential to produce more ammonia (aka fish waste) that your fish ever will in a densely planted aquarium. The leaves they drop will decay and need to be picked up by your filter. You need to have a ton of biological filtration to reduce ammonia because it becomes problematic and leads to algae growth.

    This is why I feel if you are going to be serious about aquascaping, you need to consider buying the best canister filter you can afford. Personally, I’m a OASE fanboy. They are in my mind, the best canister filter ever built. The prefilter section comes out for easy maintenance and the aquarium heater chamber is innovative. The prefilter feature sells itself!

    All you need to do is modify the setup by removing all the filtrations chambers and replacing it with a superior biological filtration like SeaChem Matrix and putting Purigen to keep your water clear. Add a fine polishing filter pad and you are good to go!

    Types of Plants and Their Lighting Requirements

    All types of plants require different lighting levels, some require bright light and others survive on less. Let’s start with the types of plants first. For these plant examples, I’ll focus on low light plants or low energy/low tech plants.

    Foregound Plants

    These are smaller plants that are on the shorter side. They can be placed in the substrate or placed near the beginning of the hardscape. Examples of these plants would include plants like:

    Mid-Ground Plants

    Anubias Plant

    These are taller plants best suited in the middle of the aquarium. These would include plant species like:

    Background plants

    Background plants are tall plants that serve as a background to your aquarium. These would include plants like:

    When it comes to aquarium lighting requirements, reds, stem plants and carpeting plants will require the most light. The good thing is a solid online retailer will give you the ability to search plants by light level so you can determine which ones work for you.

    Carpeting plants

    Some carpet plants are Dwarf baby tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides) and dwarf hairgrass. These are famous for their vibrant natural look and require a lot of light. Staurogyne Repens is one of the more popular carpeting plants for low tech/low energy setups. Monte Carlo is one of the most popular carpeting plant species used in aquascapes due to its easier to grow nature and spread in CO2 injected tanks.

    To have the best success with carpeted plants, CO2 injection is recommended. You can also give yourself a good head start if you use a dry start method to grow out your carpet.

    Red Plants

    Red plants is a whole section in itself as many have more advanced care requirements. If you are beginner, I would recommend to avoid red plants until you have more experience. That being said if you really want a red plant, consider plant species like Ludwigia Natans Super Red, Ludwigia Repens, or Alternanthera Rosanervig. As with carpeting plants, CO2 injection is recommended.

    Live Plant Selection

    Live plant selection can be overwhelming with over 400 aquarium plants to choose from in our hobby. The best place to start is determine what you are looking for. If you are looking for low energy/low tech plants, stick with those. Stem plants require more maintenance as they grow fast.

    I also recommend starting with low energy/low tech plants, then moving into CO2, then move into more advanced plants. These easier to care for plants will thrive even more in CO2. Always shop with a plan and never walk into a local fish store not knowing what you are looking for.

    Selecting Live Plants

    Aquarium selection I feel is easier these days if you use the rimless aquarium selections available. I would recommend a rimless aquarium if you want to do an aquascape as it offers the highest clarity and aesthetics. They also offer them in ideal sizes. If we use ADA standards here are the dimensions for selecting an aquarium.

    • 60P (Small) – 24″ x 12″ x 14″ or 60 x 30 x 36 cm (17 gallons)
    • 90P (Medium) – 36″x 18″ x 18″ or 90 x 45 x 45 cm (48 gallons)
    • 120P (Large) – 48″ x 19.7″ x 19.7″ or 120 x 50 x 50 cm (80 gallons)

    If you work off these dimensions at the 2, 3, and 4 foot fish tank length, you will have an ideal space to build an aquascape and show depth. You can purchased rimmed tanks for less. They will offer less clarity and aesthetics, but it will save you money. The most available rimless for aquascapers online will be from Landen and UNS Aquariums.

    Determining Your Aquascape

    Sanzon Iwagumi

    Aquascapes are beautiful yet complex. I’m going to list out the main three aquascaping styles in our aquarium hobby then will link to articles that go more in-depth. The top three scaping styles are:

    Of the 3 styles, the most trendy currently is the Nature Aquarium. This style has been popularized by ADA and featured in many aquascaping competitions.

    Selecting Fish

    When it comes to fish for aquascapes, schooling fish are going to be the more ideal. There is are also design elements to keep in mind when selecting fish. This would be:

    • Smaller and long fish add a dynamic effect to a planted aquarium
    • Tall and round fish add calm and peacefulness

    There are also sizes of the aquarium to keep in mind to. I’ll split this by size so you can determine what fits for you and include links to the fish profiles:

    Rasboras

    There are other inhabits you can include such as freshwater shrimp and algae eaters like Otocinclus. The schooling fish are the heart of the scape. The other fish and inhabitants are functional fish that serve a role such as algae eating.

    How to Set Up a Fish Tank with Live Plants

    We are going to work with level 2 setup here – low-tech with CO2 supplementation using SeaChem Excel. I’ll use a 60P tank to build. Here would be the list to setup:

    • Aquarium โ€“ UNS 60U orย Landen 60P
    • Stand โ€“ Aqua Worx Aquarium Stand โ€“ 60U
    • Filtration โ€“ Oase Biomaster 350
    • Driftwood โ€“ย Manzanitaย or Spiderwood Driftwood
    • Substrate โ€“ Tropica Aquarium Soil โ€“ Powder Granule
    • Aquarium Lighting โ€“ Fluval Plant 3.0 orย Twinstar E-Series
    • Plants (examples below)
      • Easy To Care For- Bucephalandra, Anubias Nana, Crypts
      • Carpets โ€“ Micranthemum โ€˜Monte Carloโ€™, Dwarf Hairgrass
      • Mosses โ€“ Java Moss,ย Christimas Moss
      • Reds โ€“ Ludwigia Natans Super Red, Ludwigia Repens

    This is likely a higher end setup than what you would typically see. I want to set you up for success. This setup is more future proof as you can step up to CO2 and more aggressive growing aquatic plants as the foundation of the system is setup to handle this. You may have to upgrade the light if you push to high light demand plants, but this should get you going well.

    Common FAQS

    Are they hard to maintain?

    If setup with a beginner in mind, they will not be hard to maintain. Planted aquariums can be as easy to maintain or as difficult as you want. It all depends on your plant selection, your light intensity, and CO2 injection. A fish tank with high intensity aquarium lighting and CO2 injection will require lots of pruning. A tank with low intensity and no CO2 will requirement less pruning, but may struggle with excessive algae growth.

    Do these tanks need water changes?

    Most planted tanks will require water changes. There are some low tech setups that can be designed to live without water changes. They are not the best looking, but one of the easiest to maintain aquariums. Most high energy planted tanks will require regular water changes due to purposely overdoing aquarium fertilizers to reset the system (known as the estimative index1).

    What is the best substrate?

    The best substrate for a planted aquarium would be an active substrate. The best beginner active substrate for an aquascape would be Tropica aquarium soil powder. The best advanced active substrate would be ADA’s Amazonia substrate system.

    Can I use LED lights?

    Yes, you can use LED lights for planted aquariums. They have come a long way since they were first introduced. Many even include timers, dimmers, and color spectrum customizations that can all run off your smart phone! They are the new wave of lighting in our hobby.

    Further Reading

    This blog article is fairly long and there is a whole bunch I could get into. The best way to get more in-depth on this is with books. Here is what I would recommend for reading:

    Aquascaping – By George Farmer

    My Pick
    Aquascaping

    Created by UK Aquascaper and co-founder of the UK Plant Society, George Farmer. This book is a full color 317 page deep drive into the incredible world of aquascaping!

    Buy On Amazon

    This to me is the modern aquascaping bible. Created by world renowed aquascaper and YouTube personality George Farmer, this book offers a lot of information well beyond the scope of this blog post. I highly recommend this to anyone who is serious about getting into aquascaping.

    Sunken Gardens – A Step By Step Guide To Planting Freshwater

    Also Great
    Sunken Gardens

    Written by American Aquascaper, ADA Judge, and editor of AGA magazine Karen Randall. This 252 page book offers an in-depth look into your first aquascape build!

    Buy On Amazon

    Karen is a seasoned aquascaper and past president of the Boston Aquarium Society and chairs several aquascaping competitors every year. Her book goes into great detail about planted aquarium setup and has several how to picture tutorials.

    Closing Thoughts

    This article was a joy to write up. Passionate subjects like this I can write for days ๐Ÿ˜….I hope youโ€™ve found this article helpful in understanding how to maintain a planted aquarium. If you have any other questions, please donโ€™t hesitate to leave them in the comments below and I will get back with an answer for you as soon as possible! Happy scaping!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • RANCHU GOLDFISH – Caring For The Beautiful King Of Goldfish

    RANCHU GOLDFISH – Caring For The Beautiful King Of Goldfish

    Ranchu goldfish are among the most impressive fancy goldfish varieties, and I find them fascinating to keep. The egg-shaped body, lack of dorsal fin, and prominent head growth (wen) make them unlike any other goldfish โ€” and the Japanese have been perfecting this breed for centuries. They do need pristine water quality and a bit more care than hardier varieties, but for a serious goldfish enthusiast they’re absolutely worth it.

    Considered the โ€œKing of Goldfishโ€ by the Japanese, Ranchu goldfish are among the oldest and most popular fancy goldfish. They hold a special place in the minds of many goldfish enthusiasts, thanks to their unique appearance. An aquarium teeming with these beautiful fish is sure to enhance the aesthetic appeal of just about any place, be it your home or your office!

    So, if youโ€™re looking to keep fancy goldfish, you should consider Ranchu Goldfish. They are available in various shapes and colors to make your fish tank appear lavish and elegant. Keep reading to learn more about these incredible fancy goldfish, as we will provide all the necessary information on how to properly care for your King (or Queen).

    A Brief Overview of Ranchu Goldfish

    Scientific NameCarassius Auratus Auratus
    Common NamesMaruko, Buffalo-head Goldfish, Korean Goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginJapan
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerately Active
    Lifespan10 to 15 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMedium
    Minimum Tank Size20 Gallons
    Temperature Range65ยฐF to 72ยฐF
    Water Hardness4-20 dGH
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityCompatible with Other Slow-Moving Fancy Goldfish
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    Origins and Habitat

    The story of Ranchu Goldfish (Carassius auratus) begins in ancient Japan, unlike other fancy goldfish that began in ancient China. They were developed from Chinese Lionhead Goldfish by skilled Japanese breeders. Today, modern day Ranchu Goldfish can be found almost anywhere in the world, not just in China or Japan.

    Ranchuโ€™s arenโ€™t wild fish, so we must look at their ancestors to learn about their natural habitat.

    Like any other goldfish, they descended from an old species of wild carp, known commonly as the Gibel Carp, Silver Prussian carp, or simply Prussian Carp.

    These wild carp thrive in slow-moving, slightly cold waters of ponds, lakes, and rivers. Ranchus also prefer similar water conditions and share a lot of traits with Prussian Carp and other goldfish.

    What Does Ranchu Goldfish Look like?

    Ranchu Goldfish

    Itโ€™s quite easy to identify Ranchu Goldfish as they have a rather unusual head growth, an egg-shaped body with a deeper belly, and a horizontally spreading caudal (tail) fin. Looking from the top view, they look a lot like moving worms when swimming. Thatโ€™s where the name โ€œRanchuโ€ comes from (which literally means “dutch worm” in Japanense).

    Another striking feature of the Ranchu goldfish species is that they donโ€™t have any dorsal fin, much like their Lionhead counterpart. However, Ranchus come with arched backs, unlike the flat backs of Lionhead specimens. Initially bred for top view, they look just as impressive when viewed from the sides nowadays.

    They are available in a wide variety of colors, ranging from red, white, orange, blue to bi-colors like red-and-white, black and red, black and white, etc. Their scales can be metallic, matte, or nacreous. So, a couple of differently-colored Ranchus will make your aquarium colorful and lively! Black ranchu goldfish are one of my personal favorites.

    These fish are comparatively more delicate than other goldfish because of their unique anatomy. So, they are probably not the best option for beginner aquarists. Overall, the beautiful appearance and the unique swimming style of the Ranchu goldfish make them the perfect candidate for any goldfish aquarium.  

    Are They Easy to Take Care of?

    Ranchu Goldfish are genetically weaker than other goldfish as they are highly inbred. They are pretty exquisite and not as hardy as other species. Their unique anatomy makes them prone to health issues. So, they arenโ€™t easy to take care of and require special care. You must have some experience before handling this fish.

    The rounded body and the lack of dorsal fin reduce the amount of control Ranchus have over their body when swimming. So, they canโ€™t swim as efficiently as others. Swimming is more tiring for them as well, as you will often see them moving slowly and resting now and then to regain energy. Moreover, the wen or the head growth usually covers their eyes and makes it harder for them to see.

    As a result, Ranchus arenโ€™t good at competing for food. In a tank with fast swimmers and aggressive fish, they will be unable to feed and thrive. The Ranchu goldfish cannot tolerate pollution at all. They will be quick to pick up diseases if the water isnโ€™t clean enough.

    Thanks to their rounded body shape, they are highly vulnerable to swim bladder disease. Furthermore, the wen can easily get infected. If you donโ€™t keep a Ranchu goldfish in a well-maintained fish tank with a high-quality aquarium filter, they wonโ€™t thrive. It doesnโ€™t take much to stress them out and put them into shock. Their care requirements are much higher than others, so make sure to be extra careful and put more effort.

    What Is their Eating Habits?

    Itโ€™s easy to feed Ranchus as they are omnivorous. They like to eat whatever they find, so itโ€™s up to you to decide which type of food you will provide them. A well-balanced diet comprised of high-quality frozen, fresh, and flake foods is considered the best for any breed of goldfish.

    Brine shrimp, Daphnia, tubifex worms, blood worms, black worms, etc., are some of the most suitable foods for Ranchus. You should minimize the use of live foods as they often contain bacteria and parasites that can make them sick. Ranchus usually take longer to feed as they have poor vision due to their head growth. You will have to feed them several times a day but remember not to overfeed.

    A favorite food staple is soaked pellets or freeze fried food supplemented with vita-chem. This is a great way to add much needed nutrients to common foods. Probiotics are also becoming more common place with food manufacturers with Companies like Cobalt leading the charge.

    My Pick
    Vita Chem

    One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Can They Live Alone?

    The Ranchu, like any other goldfish, can live a long life in solitude. This breed of fish doesnโ€™t mind living alone as long as they get enough food and decent water quality.  However, they are social animals, and they can benefit from social interaction. Ranchus love playing around with other fish as they enjoy companionship.

    They love being social in groups. In fact, check out super-cute video of Ranchu goldfish playing football (As reported by the South China Morning Post) to see how fun they can be to have around.

    They will be visibly happier if you keep them together with other tank mates that wonโ€™t compete with them or harass them. So, itโ€™s better to introduce similar types of fish in a Ranchu aquarium if you want the best for them. They do great in an all goldfish tank full of other fancy goldfish varieties.

    How Big Can They Grow? What Tank Size Is Right for Them?

    Fancy fish like the Ranchu Goldfish are developed to impress you with their shapes, not their sizes. With that being said, the average length of adult Ranchus is around 5โ€. However, under the right water conditions, they can grow even larger, up to 8 inches!

    Learning the size is important because it determines what the tank size that houses them should be. You must make sure to provide them enough room where they can swim freely. In general, the minimum requirement for housing one full-grown Ranchu is 20 gallons.

    However, you should start with 20-30 gallons if you want to ensure maximum comfort for your prized fish. Increase the tank size by 10-gallons every time you bring a new fish into the tank. Larger tanks are recommended because that will provide more space for them to swim, and you wonโ€™t have to deal with water changes as frequently.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Ranchu have a surprisingly long lifespan. This breed of Japanese goldfish can live for 10 to 15 years! If you keep them in an aquarium with suitable water conditions and ensure a proper diet plan, you can increase the lifespan to 18 years or even more!

    Taking care of Ranchus will undoubtedly pay off. Even though these fish have low tolerance, they will stay healthy and active for a long time as long as you provide for them.

    Additionally, you should keep them under constant monitoring. Look for any signs of diseases or discomfort. Perform water changes as often as required. If you notice any difference in their bodies, take action quickly to prevent them from suffering or dying.

    Are They Aggressive?

    The Ranchu Goldfish is anything but aggressive. They have an incredibly peaceful temperament, and they are rather friendly and cheerful. Their unique structure prevents them from being violent, anyway. For instance, they canโ€™t swim all that fast and tire out pretty easily. They canโ€™t see clearly with their eyes, often due to the growth in their heads. You wonโ€™t see them fighting other fish for food because they arenโ€™t equipped to compete.

    However, Ranchus do enjoy foraging for food. Make sure not to choose aggressive fishes as their tank mates if you donโ€™t want your goldfish to struggle for survival and fail. They get along pretty well with other similarly morphed goldfish. You can feel free to house them together in an aquarium. Rest assured, they will not transform your tank into the Colosseum and fight each other to death!

    How Much Do They Cost?

    The price may also vary depending on factors like the size, source, age, etc. In general, you should be able to get your hands on one of them for 5 to 25 dollars from any local pet store or local breeders. However Japanโ€™s โ€œKing of Goldfishโ€ has garnered a lot of popularity over the decades with its fancy appearance. Ranchus are prized by many aquarists all over the world, and they are definitely in demand.

    The most expensive Ranchus will be shipped directly from Japan or China. These are the most prized of all Ranchus and earn their moniker of “King of Goldfish. These types of Ranchus will easily commander prices of over $50 and can get much more expensive! Importing is how you obtain Ranchu Goldfish developed for competing in various Japanese shows. The video below by hendrink Nursalim shows a competition level Ranchu competing in Aquarama in 2011.

    Competition Ranchu Goldfish tend to have more defining features, and their price can range from hundreds to thousands of dollars! You donโ€™t need them unless youโ€™re in the Ranchu Goldfish Enthusiasts category and planning to win one of those competitions. You will have to spend quite some money taking care of these types of goldfish, which you should consider.

    No matter what type of fish you get, you must invest in creating and maintaining a proper diet plan for keeping them healthy. Rest assured, they are definitely worth the price.

    Tank Requirement

    If youโ€™re a goldfish enthusiast, chances are youโ€™ve already got a fancy goldfish aquarium. It might just be the perfect one for the king of goldfish from Japan! A Ranchu will flourish in a tank with slow-moving clean water, with suitable temperatures (65ยฐ โ€“ 72ยฐ). The recommended aquarium size for a single Ranchu is 20 to 30 gallons.

    The pH range must be within 6.5 to 7.5, while the hardness range should be around 5 to 19 dGH. Make sure to keep the levels of ammonia, and nitrite close to zero. Nitrate should be maintained below 40 PPM.

    Filtration and Water Quality

    There should be a functioning water filtration system for these fish. Given the delicate nature of this fish, You should elect at minimum a quality hang on the back filter for smaller aquariums.

    For larger fancy goldfish setups, you should consider an oversized canister filter to manage nitrates with a quality all-in-one biomedia like BioHome. Setting your filtration up like this ensure you have the most stable water quality to keep your Ranchus in excellent health.

    Editor’s Choice!
    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Editor’s Choice!

    This is the best media you can buy for your aquarium. It does it all – removes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates

    Buy On Amazon

    Goldfish Tank Environment

    For creating a comfortable and natural environment, you should add a sand or fine gravel substrate. Ensure itโ€™s safe and doesnโ€™t pose any choking hazard because your fish will regularly dig around that part as they like foraging for food.

    Feel free to decorate your aquarium but refrain from using anything with sharp edges and protruding tips. If you are using artificial plants, consider silk plants. If you are using aquarium rocks, consider rocks without sharp edges or round ones. Driftwood should generally be avoided unless you are rounding out edges and ensuring there is plenty of open room to swim.

    You can add a variety of plants to make the environment appear more natural. Due to their digging habit, live plants may not always be suitable. Some great plants to consider for fancy goldfish would include:

    Make sure to anchor your plants to rocks instead of the substrate. The difficulty with plants is why many choose to go with artificial plants.

    Tank Mates

    You must be careful in choosing suitable tank mates for the Ranchu Goldfish. They are best paired with other fancy goldfish such as:

    Final Words

    Ranchu goldfish stand out easily from other fish aided by their unique body. The wen on their head, combined with their round body, and arched backs make them look special. You will be impressed at how lovely they appear when swimming, thanks to the horizontally spreading double tail.

    If you take good care of these fish, your aquarium will be rightly populated with one of the fanciest goldfish you can find on the market. They will stay with you for a long time and keep you entertained! Ranchus keep a goldfish tank lively and entertaining. Consider adding these beautiful creatures! Leave a comment below if you think that we should add more information on how to care for them in this blog post.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Caring For Your Black Moor Goldfish (With Pictures)

    Caring For Your Black Moor Goldfish (With Pictures)

    Black moor goldfish are one of those fancy varieties that I think are underappreciated โ€” there’s something elegant about that all-black coloration and the dramatic telescope eyes. I’ve kept fancy goldfish including black moors, and the telescope eye varieties do need a bit more attention than standard goldfish because their vision is genuinely limited. Set them up right and they’re charming, personable fish with a lot of character.

    Have you just purchased your first Black Moor Goldfish? Congratulations on being a new fish parent and thank you for taking the time to research how to care for them. You will find that not only are they easy to take care of, but their beautiful colors make them a great addition to any home or office.

    Of all the fancy goldfish which have attracted the interest of the home aquariums of beginner aquarists, one the most distinct aquarium fish is undoubtedly the black moor goldfish. Named for its beautiful black coloring, this is a peaceful type of goldfish that is very easy and rewarding to care for. What distinguishes the black moor from other fancy goldfish types are, mainly, its “dragon” eyes. As one of the telescope goldfish, these fish have eyes with a comic and endearing bulging appearance.

    It’s important to follow the proper care specifications in order to ensure a long and healthy life for your new friends: hereโ€™s my comprehensive guide to black moor goldfish care.

    A Brief Overview of the Black Moor Goldfish

    Scientific NameCarassius Auratus
    Common NamesBlack Moor Goldfish, Dragon Eye Goldfish, Black Demekin, Black Peony Goldfish, Telescope Goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina and Japan
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerately Active
    Lifespan10 โ€” 15 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels, mainly mid level
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallon aquarium
    Temperature Range65ยบF to 72ยบF
    KH4-20
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLay eggs seasonally, can be hand spawned
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityPeaceful community species, best with other Fancy Goldfish
    OK for Planted Tanks?Mostly No

    Origins and Habitat

    Like all goldfish carassius auratus, the lineage of the black moor has its beginnings in the Prussian carp, a wild carp specimen found in parts of North America, Europe and most notably, Asia. The first incidence of carp being caught and domesticated, however, occurred in China.

    The black moor goldfish is a result of selective fish breeding done in China and Japan to obtain and retain its defining genetic abnormality: telescope eyes. This was done by confining fish with such eyes to a single pond, leading to a larger spawn. The unqiue black coloring and long tail fins of the black moor were thus bred into permanence.

    What Does they Look Like?

    What Does A Black Moor Goldfish Look Like

    With bulging eyes and a metallic coat of black scales, the black moor goldfish has an easily recognizable appearance:

    Body

    Like many other fancy goldfish, the body of the black moor goldfish is rotund, with an egg shape. This is offset by their beautiful tail and anal fins, which are long, graceful and flowing. Meanwhile, their pectoral and dorsal fins tend to be larger.

    Color

    The black moor goldfish gets its name from the distinct, fully black coloration of its scales. However, this beautiful metallic black color is not seen until they get older. As a juvenile, the scales of a black moor goldfish have a color more accurately described as dark bronze. Beyond maturity, when it begins aging, a black moorโ€™s fins may turn grayish, but don’t begrudge them for not staying true to their name.

    Eyes

    And now for the best part of the black moor goldfish: its large, bulging eyes, which are quite fittingly called telescope eyes (and alternatively, dragon eyes). As they age, black moor goldfish’s eyes tend to get bigger. So, if you look into a tank full of these fish, you can easily pick out the eldest among them by the size of his or her eyes. The bulging eyes phenomenon is a result of intraocular pressure, which causes the fancy goldfish to, ironically, have very weak eyesight. 

    Gender Differences

    Telling the sex of a black moor is decidedly difficult, although males do tend to be smaller than females. During mating season, however, the fins of a male black moor goldfish is covered with breeding tubercles, which look like little white bumps.

    HOW BIG ARE THEY?

    The size of a black moor goldfish changes quite noticeably as he or she grows. The average size of a black moor is about 6 inches. At their largest, they might measure up to 8 inches.

    HOW LONG DO THEY LIVE?

    Like most other goldfish varieties, these fish have a life expectancy between 10 and 15 years. However, if you manage to provide superior water quality and diligently keep up tank maintenance, you might even see your black moors make into 20 years of age.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Whether you put your black moors in with other tank mates or in a community tank, you will be pleased by their friendly and peaceful temperament. That said, the best course of action is to put these slow swimmers in with a shoal of other black moors.

    Not only that, but their low activity level also makes black moor goldfish care easy: these fancy goldfish like to simply swim back and forth across their tank without bothering any other fish. You’ll often find them swimming leisurely in the middle of the tank, although you shouldn’t be surprised to see your fish concealing him or herself in the decorations or in the substrate.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Choose the members of your aquarium carefully. As these fish are fragile and peaceful goldfish carassius auratus, their chosen companions should have a similar disposition and set of traits. This is a very important aspect of black moor goldfish care as it ensures that your fish wonโ€™t be bullied or injured. This is not only limited to fin nipping but extends to their eyes, which are easily injured.

    Good Tank Mates

    For non-fish the best tankmates would be:

    Many fish available will need different water temperature requirements. Peaceful and schooling fish like minnows your Goldfish may try to eat , but they are are fast enough to get away and not be stressed out in larger tanks. You will need to worry about feeding though as fancy goldfish are slow swimmers and eaters.

    The best tank mates for a black moor goldfish would be other goldfish of the fancy variety, such as:

    Pearscale Goldfish

    Inverts like freshwater shrimp are generally going to be a bad idea. While shrimp can be fast enough to get away, the stress of being constantly chased could make them jump out of the tank. Snails would be a better choice with nerite and the mystery variety being known to coexist peacefully with your black moors.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    You should at all costs avoid pairing your black moor with territorial or aggressive goldfish varieties. Such types of fish are known to nip at the long flowing fins of black moors, which can cause fin rot. It can also be quite stressful for black moors to try and avoid aggressive tank mates, which in turn might affect their health and lifespan. Such tankmates that do not pair well with Goldfish would be Cichlids.

    What Do Carassius Auratus Eat?

    Most goldfish varieties are omnivorous fish, which means they can be fed food of the meat as well as plant variety. Although this extends your range of options, you should also be warned that, as fish with big and hungry appetites, your black moors are liable to start feeding on anything you put in your aquarium.

    Dry pellets and flakes can easily be fed to a black moor. That said, you should also aim to create variety in their diet to ensure good health. You can feed them vegetables such as broccoli, spinach and lettuce. Make sure to stream your veggies before introducing as this sterilizes them. Specialized frozen foods are highly recommended as they offer the best nutritional value you can get in the hobby. High protein foods help to bring out the black coloration of these fish quicker.

    What About Live Foods?

    As carnivores, black moors take well to certain easily digestible freeze-dried live foods or frozen live foods, such as blackworms, bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex worms, and daphnia (brine shrimp has the lowest nutritional value of all I mentioned). Before feeding freeze-dried foods to your black moors, however, you should soak the food in some aquarium water first to facilitate a smoother digestion process. Soaking with supplements like Vita-Chem will help boost the nutritional content of the food.

    My Pick
    Vita Chem

    One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    Most goldfish carassis auratus varieties should be given food several times a day (though most fish keepers can only do twice a day), and the same is true for the black moor goldfish carassius auratus. But keeping their big appetite in mind, itโ€™s also important not to overfeed your black moors. Their internal organs are squeezed into a compact body, which can lead to fatal digestive problems such as constipation, when the fish is given excessive food.

    Moreover, be sure to eliminate any leftover food so as to keep the water unpolluted and safe for your fish to live and thrive in. Using a rule of thumb of only feeding what your fish can eat in 2 minutes is a good guideline to work with.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Black moor goldfish in aquarium

    Remember, goldfish are descended from carps. As such, itโ€™s best to try to ensure a tank environment that closely mimics the natural habitat of a carb. Black moors have weak eyesight and love to feed on almost any small object they find, which is important to keep in mind. Murky, moderately brackish water with a gravel substrate should be a good fit for your black moors.

    Furthermore, considering that they are weak swimmers, the optimal tank shape for them is long rather than tallโ€”this gives them more swimming space. If it’s tall, it might be harder for black moors to reach any food on the surface.

    Minimum Tank Size Considerations

    Despite their relatively small size, these fish do take up a lot of space due to their long and large fins. So, for a single black moor goldfish, you should provide at least a 20 gallon aquarium. Then, for every new fish you add, you should add another 10 gallons.

    Substrate

    Care should be taken when selecting substrates for goldfish. Goldfish will regularly dig in the substrate and with their large mouths, it is easy for them to accidentally shallow gravel. I would recommend a sandy substrate for goldfish as this allows them to forgage freely and split out any sand bits as they dig around the tank.

    Ideal For Goldfish
    Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

    This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    Decor

    Despite their slow swimming speed, black moors are big eaters who are prone to nibbling on almost anything they find. So, itโ€™s best to avoid putting a lot of tank dรฉcor in their aquarium. They might just start chewing on it. That said, if you must include decor, ensure that they have smooth surfaces and donโ€™t have any sharp or protruding edges. Itโ€™s best to steer clear of driftwood and sharp rocks.

    Plants

    As they are known diggers, donโ€™t be surprised if your fish start digging up any live plants youโ€™ve planted in their substrate. The best way to work around their digging nature is to attach plants to aquarium rocks. You need to be selective on your plants though, as goldfish will eat many live plants and their temperature requirements are not compatible with most plants.

    The safest plants to use on goldfish would be:

    All the plants above are considered beginner aquarium plants, so you can still maintain a easy to keep tank! You can also use artifical plants. Silk plants are better to use than plastic ones as they will lack the sharp edges that could potentially harm your fish.

    Water Quality (Care)

    Here are the specifics of maintaining optimal water quality.

    Filtration

    It’s recommended to include an efficient filter in your black moor’s tank. This ensures that the water stays clear, which is important since black moors produce a lot of waste. For smaller tanks a quality hang on filter like an aquaclear or seachem tidal would work well.

    For larger tanks, it would be best to consider using a well made canister filter. Goldfish are bulky and large. This size makes them hard on your bioload. A canister filter is designed to handle large bioloads. With goldfish tanks, I would recommend loading up on a quality biological media that can process nitrates. I feel Biohome Ultimate Filter Media is the best complete filtration media when it comes to high bio-load non-planted tanks.

    Editor’s Choice!
    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Editor’s Choice!

    This is the best media you can buy for your aquarium. It does it all – removes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates

    Buy On Amazon

    Water Parameters

    As black moors are an artificially bred species, there is no exact habitat you can replicate for them. However, we do know that their black color appears more quickly in low water temperatures. So donโ€™t set the tank up in any room that tends to get hot, or near any heat source (e.g. a fireplace), as this will affect water temperatures. They also benefit from neutral pH levels. Let’s look at some specifics of water conditions for these freshwater fish:

    • Water Temperature: 65.0 to 72.0ยฐ F  / 18.3 to 22.2ยฐ C
    • pH Range: 6.0 – 7.5
    • Lighting: Strong lighting is required to help your ocularly impaired fish.
    • Hardness Range: 5 – 19 dGH
    • Salinity: Below 10%; specific gravity should be below 1.002
    • Water Movement: Moderate

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Itโ€™s of utmost importance to ensure clean water conditions for your fish as it directly affects their health. About 20% of the water should be changed on a monthly basis to keep phosphate and nitrate levels at a healthy level. What’s more, it’s recommended to make use of a gravel siphon to remove elements such as organic debris and sludge.

    Test Water Conditions

    If youโ€™re committed to ensuring a long life for your fish, you should invest in an aquarium test kit. It allows you to determine whether the mentioned water parameters are being maintained properly in your black moorโ€™s tank. 

    How to Breed

    It’s relatively easy to breed black moors on your own in a tank. To get your black moors to mate and start laying eggs, create the following conditions.

    Breeding Tank Setup

    Start by moving your pair of breeding black moors to a separate tank (video by All Blue Amante Del Pesce). You should aim to ensure that there are adequate surfaces such as plants and decor for the female to lay eggs when it’s time.

    Breeding Temperature

    Once your fish are in their tank, start by slowly lowering the temperature to 60ยฐ F (15.5ยฐ C). Then, gradually increase the water temperature by 3ยฐ daily until your fish look ready to mate. You should also make daily water changes of 20%. This will bring on spawning season.

    After Breeding

    Once your female fish lays her eggs, the male will go on to fertilize them. This process involves a courtship ritual in which the male chases the female around for some time. This might take several hours and you might see as many as 10,000 eggs in the tank by the end of it. Once the eggs appear, swiftly remove the pair back into their original tank as they will otherwise eat the eggs.

    Feeding Your Fry

    In a week, you’ll have black moor fancy goldfish babies. Congrats, you’ve unlocked a new level in fish keeping! Keep feeding them foods high in protein and iron until they take on an adult size. In about two months, you can start feeding them the same food you give to their parents.

    Health and Disease

    Concerned about the health of your freshwater fish? Hereโ€™s what you need to know if you have a sick fish.

    Signs of Health

    If your fancy goldfish are swimming about normally, that’s usually a good indicator of health. They should be regularly eating and should sign good colors and believing should not be labored.

    Signs of Ill Health

    Here are the three main indicators of poor health in your black moor goldfish that anyone practicing fish keeping should know:

    • Their appearance. Note whether there is any dull coloration, color changes, or colorless patches. If you notice any significant color changes, your black moors might be suffering from velvet disease or skin disease.
    • Their movements. Healthy goldfish usually swim and bob along the middle of the tank. So if you see that they are sitting at the bottom of the tank or floating on the surface, they might be afflicted by swim bladder.
    • Their appetite. If you notice that your goldfish is not eating properly, they might be suffering from ich, which occurs when there is a parasitic protozoan in the body of the fish. In advanced cases, you might also notice white spots, rapid breathing, and isolation.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Like all common freshwater fish, black moors are at risk of being inflicted by ich, fin rot, fungus, and flukes. With their long fins, they are particularly likely to catch fin rot. However, this can be prevented if you maintain a high quality of water in their tank.

    If you suspect a swim bladder (symptoms discussed above), check out my freshwater fish diseases post. There is a great video and explanation on treatment and alternative long-term solutions like fabricated “wheel chairs” that hobbyists have used to save their fish.

    As a telescopic goldfish breed with poor eyesight, black moors are prone to eye diseases caused by fungi and bacteria (particularly if their tank is not clean and well-maintained). When handling your black moors, always be very cautious so as not to accidentally injure or damage their eyes.

    It’s important to keep ammonia and nitrate levels low in your black moor’s goldfish tank. To ensure this, you should aim to replace about 25% of the water volume on a weekly basis. You may need to increase the volume based on your test results. Regularly testing your water with an aquarium test kit will help you adjust your water change routine to manage nitrates.

    Where to Buy

    Black moor goldfish are quite inexpensive and are commonly found. You can typically find them in chain pet stores. However, I would recommend you either purchase at a specialty local fish store or if you cannot find a good one in your area, looking into an online fish store.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are they hard to take care of?

    No, theyโ€™re relatively low-maintenance: as long as you feed them in a timely manner, maintain tank conditions and remember to conduct regular water changes, youโ€™ll be good to go!

    How long do they live?

    Like the majority of goldfish species, these dragon fish live up to 10 to 15 years.

    Can they live in a 3-gallon tank?

    No. A black moor needs at least a 20 gallon aquarium. And, for every new fish you introduce, you should add 10 gallons of water to the aquarium.

    Their small size at pet stores can fool a novice fish keeper into thinking that itโ€™s okay to place your black moor goldfish in a small aquarium or fish bowl, but they need a lot of space to swim slowly about and they get large. With their bulky size, goldfish produce a lot of waste; so the smaller the aquarium, the more quickly the water will go toxic and endanger the life of your fish.

    Are they aggressive?

    No. On the contrary, black moors are some of the most peaceful species of goldfish youโ€™ll find, which makes them agreeable tank mates like many other goldfish species. Their physical limitations (i.e. poor eyesight and heavy body) also make it difficult for a black moor to be aggressive.

    Closing Thoughts

    This fascinating fish might make it seem like they’re difficult to care for, but a species like the black moor goldfish makes it obvious that that’s a misconception. As long as you can commit to ensure optimal tank standards, and donโ€™t place them with any aggressive fish species, your gentle and beautiful black moors will stay by your side for at least 10 years! I hope youโ€™ve found this guide helpful in understanding black moor goldfish care. Your feedback would be appreciated, so please leave a comment below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    Pearlscale goldfish are one of the most distinctive fancy varieties you can keep, and I find their round, golf-ball body shape genuinely endearing. They’re not the hardiest fancy goldfish โ€” that round body means they’re more prone to swim bladder issues than more streamlined varieties โ€” but with the right diet and tank setup they do very well. If you’re a goldfish enthusiast looking for something unusual, pearlscales are worth the extra care.

    Pearlscale goldfish are one of the most distinctive fancy varieties you’ll encounter โ€” those raised, dome-shaped scales genuinely do look like pearls, and the round, almost spherical body is unlike any other goldfish. I’ve covered dozens of goldfish types on our YouTube channel over the years, and the pearlscale is always one that surprises people who haven’t seen it before. That said, after 25 years in this hobby I want to be upfront: that beautiful round body comes with real care considerations. Pearlscales are prone to swim bladder issues, especially when overfed or kept on a poor diet. They’re also slow swimmers that absolutely cannot share a tank with single-tailed goldfish varieties. This guide covers everything you need to keep pearlscales healthy long-term.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCarassius Auratus
    Common NamesGolfball pearlscale, pearlscale goldfish, ping-pong goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerately Active
    Lifespan5 to 10 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size20 Gallons
    Water Temperature Range65ยฐF to 75ยฐF
    KH4-20
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layers, can be bred in both small and large groups, can be hand spawned
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityPeaceful community species, best with other Fancy Goldfish
    OK for Planted Tanks?Mostly No

    Origins and Habitat

    Originating in the early 20th century, the pearlscale goldfish is a relatively new addition to the family of fancy goldfish. Unlike the slender common goldfish, the Chinshurin (as is their Japanese name) have an adorable rounded body, which increases their popularity.

    Most species of goldfish are bred in China or Japan. However, modern day pearlscale goldfish are bred and developed mainly in England. But like most fancy goldfish, ping-pong goldfish are bred and kept all over the world. Because there are specially bred goldfish, there are no Pearlscale fish in existence in the wild.

    What Does the Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like?

    What Does A Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like

    There are many ways to tell goldfish pearlscale apart from others:

    Body

    One of the first things youโ€™ll notice when you lay your eyes on a pearlscale goldfish is its egg shaped round belly (many also compare it to a golf ball), which is offset especially by its compact and stubby body. In fact, this roundness is what inspires the โ€œping-pong goldfishโ€ moniker.

    Accompanying the short and rounded body are beautiful fins that flow ethereally in the water. They have a single dorsal fin, while the rest of the fins are paired. Of these, the twin tailed fin is the most remarkable, as it has a forked appearance.

    The wen fish or crown pearlscale goldfish (named for the crown atop their head) have a slightly different appearance, with large and distinct bubbles on their heads. These might be given the name of high-headed or hooded pearlscales.

    Scales

    What truly sets the pearlscale goldfish apart are its distinct scales, which are nacreous (reflective and translucent tissue). These scales are caused by calcium carbonate deposits due to a genetic mutation. Arranged in visually pleasing rows, these scales have a shiny and luminescent appearance that have a pearl like appearance (and hence the name!), and a bead-like texture.

    You wonโ€™t see these pretty nacreous scales until your goldfish are older, however. To the untrained eye, young fish of this goldfish species might be difficult to tell apart from the common goldfish.

    Color

    The golfball pearlscale goldfish comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Most commonly found are solid colored specimens, which might be covered in white, red, blue or black. Calico and chocolate brown varieties are also found of this beautiful freshwater pearlscale fish. There are many types of pearlscale goldfish available. The video below from Molly Babe Aquatics gives a great example of the variety out there.

    How Big are They?

    On average, a pearlscale goldfish will measure between 6 and 8 inches in length, and on rare occasions, 10 inches. One easy way to imagine their size is to think of the shape and size of oranges.ย 

    How Long do they Live?

    The average lifespan of a pearlscale is between 5 and 10 years, which is less than their non-fancy varieties due to their genetic makeup. Rarely, some goldfish pearlscale species live up to 15 years. Itโ€™s important to note the health problems that some pearlscale goldfish might be exposed to in suboptimal living conditions. Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s important to know how to set up their tanks for maximum life and health.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    One of the reasons why pearlscales are so popular as pets is their docile and peaceful temperament. Furthermore, theyโ€™re slow moving, slow swimmers. Because of this, they are relatively low-maintenance, and they donโ€™t exhibit aggression.

    Pearlscale goldfish are quite easy-going compared to other freshwater fish, preferring to spend their days swimming about slowly (unlike, for example, wakin goldfish who are known for fast swimming). However, just because they’re not fast swimmers doesnโ€™t mean they have a low activity level: sometimes, they like to explore and play, so itโ€™s a good idea to put them in a sizeable goldfish only tank.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Thinking of putting some pearlscale goldfish into an existing aquarium? Consider what fish make good tank mates for them, and which ones donโ€™t:

    Good Tank Mates

    If you have a peaceful community aquarium, great news! Some pearlscale goldfish will make a wonderful addition to it, as they can cohabitate easily with other fancy goldfish and docile freshwater fish. Here are some good tank mates for pearlscale goldfish:

    Other than fish, certain snail species also go well with pearlscales, such as mystery and nerite snails.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Pond Goldfish For Koi

    As mentioned before, goldfish pearlscales are slow swimmers. As such, itโ€™s important to keep them away from fast swimming and aggressive fish, because they might end up nipping at the fins of your pearlscales and out competing them for food. Accordingly, here are some fish species you should avoid putting in with your pearlscales:

    Furthermore, note that many tropical fish should not share the same aquarium as your pearlscales, as they have different temperature requirements. Even if no fin-nipping occurs with tank mates, feeding time will be difficult for your pearlscale goldfish if the tank mates are fast.

    What do They Eat?

    As omnivores who thrive on a healthy diet, pearscale goldfish will readily accept most food that you give them. The best kind of readymade food to give your pearlscales is calcium-fortified dry pellets and dry flakes, but only after itโ€™s been soaked. This is because they have a sensitive digestive system and are prone to developing swim bladder disease.

    Pearlscales love vegetables, such as cucumbers, frozen peas (as well as deshelled peas), and lettuce. These are great for pearlscales as they keep intestinal problems (such as constipation) at bay. Make sure to steam vegetables before feeding them to fish to sterilize them

    Furthermore, limit protein for your pearlscales; it should make up only about 30% of their diet. Excessive protein can cause health complications for pearlscales.

    What About Live Foods?

    You can include live foods in your pearlscale’s diet every now and again. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, blood worms, blackworms, or Tubifex worms are good live food options for your pearlscale goldfish. Keep in mind the risks of diseases when feeding live food. The safest way to feed live food is to cultivate your own, but this is not for everyone.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    A balanced and healthy diet for a pearlscale goldfish will be one made up of a mix of high quality frozen, pellets, and flakes which are given to them at least twice a day. Only feed what your fish can eat in 2 minutes to avoid any excess food in the tank.

    Tank Requirements

    Fish Tank Size

    The recommended minimum size for a pearlscale goldfish aquarium is 20 gallonsโ€”even better if you can make it 30.

    This is because, although theyโ€™re weak swimmers and slower swimmers than other similar goldfish species, pearlscales do like to swim around their aquarium. More importantly, they need a lot of oxygen and produce a lot of waste. A general rule of thumb is to add 10 gallons of tank capacity for every one fancy goldfish after the first 30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    Here are some particulars on setting up a freshwater aquarium for your pearlscale.

    Substrate

    A sandy substrate is the best option if you want to create a natural environment for your pearlscales. This is to mimic their natural environment as pearlscales enjoy digging through their substrate. If you go with gravel, itโ€™s important to ensure that youโ€™re getting larger and smoother gravel substrate. Otherwise, they might accidentally swallow some. 

    Decor

    One of the defining characteristics of pearlscales is that they have very delicate and breakable scales. This is why itโ€™s important to avoid putting them in a crowded aquarium. If your existing tank has many decorations and aquarium rocks with sharp edges (or any other sharp objects), itโ€™s best not to put your pearlscales in it as they might accidentally bump into them and have their scales fall off.

    If this happens, the fish will not regain its original โ€œpearlโ€ scales; instead, regular scales will grow in their place (although some aquarists say that additional calcium helps here, this is undocumented). That said, aquarium driftwood and plants are okay. You can smooth out driftwood with sandpaper and cut off sharp edges.

    Plants

    Plants are a great addition to a pearlscale goldfish aquarium, because these fancy goldfish love darting in between and playing with live plants. In fact, a natural pond-like habitat is very good for pearlscales. If you want to put live plants with your pearlscales, go with cold-hardy and beginner plants like Java fern, Hornwort, Anubias and Anacharis. Goldfish in general do not have an appetite for Java Fern and Anubias, but every individual fish is different.

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    Pearscale Goldfish Care (Water Quality)

    Nutrition, clean water, and stress management are the keys to proper Pearlscale goldfish care. Let’s focus on filtration and maintenance.

    Filtration

    In the case of pearlscales, biological filtration is best as it allows for a high level of water quality, which keeps them safe from common aliments and stress.

    With a decent filtration system, both your fishโ€™s waste and leftover food will be dealt with. This is particularly important because pearlscales are slow eaters and tend to take their time to get to their food. A hang on back filter at minimum are best to use given the high bioload these fish add to an aquarium.

    A canister filter should be considered for larger fancy goldfish tanks. Their large mature bulky mature sizes and general foraging habits tends to generate a lot of waste particles in the water that need to be filtered out. A large filter like a canister will ensure mechanical filtration is top tier and nutrients can be processed appropriately.

    In fish only fancy goldfish tank, a complete media like biohome is an ideal solution for keeping nitrates down when pairing with a canister. Biohome is amazing for high load fish only tanks – such as a large fancy goldfish tank.

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    Water Parameters

    As the species of pearlscale goldfish isnโ€™t naturally occurring, there is no natural habitat you can emulate for them in your tank. However, their preferences are well known. They can withstand a wide temperature range, and do well in cold water and neutral pH levels. Watch out for frequently fluctuating pH levels as this can cause disease and ill health. Nitrates is also a common issue with fancy goldfish tanks. Regularly testing your water will assist in determine the water change volume and frequency.

    Here are some specifics:

    • Water Temperature: 65.0 to 75.0ยฐ F
    • pH Range: 6.0-7.5
    • Hardness Range: 4 – 20 KH
    • Salinity: Below 10% (with a specific gravity below 1.002)
    • Water Movement: Moderate
    • Nitrates: Keep below 40

    Aquarium Maintenance

    The tank you place your pearlscale goldfish in should be well-maintained if you want them to stay healthy. Scheduled weekly water changes of 1/4 to 1/3 are required as pearlscales produce a lot of waste. As mentioned earlier, you can also choose to include snails in the tank as they make short work of algae and help to keep the tank clean. Since goldfish tanks require a lot of regular cleaning, an investment in a tool like a python cleaner can help save you time.

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    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

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    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Beyond providing a good filtration system for your pearlscale goldfishโ€™s tank, consider the following set-up requirements:

    Tank Size

    As you already know, at least 30 gallons is required for housing a pearlscale goldfish, with an additional 10 added for each new goldfish you introduce into the tank. This large amount of water is required so that the waste is diluted, and it lets you keep water changes scheduled to once a week.

    Tank Shape

    A large surface area is optimal for keeping fancy goldfish as it prevents an oxygen shortage. Remember, the tank shape determines the surface area; as such, itโ€™s best to go with an elongated tank as opposed to a tall one. If you want a round or oval tank for your goldfish, it should be narrow at the top and wide in the middle for maximum surface area.

    How to Breed

    In the right conditions, pearlscale goldfish can spawn easily and readily. They are egg layers who can breed in small groups as well as large ones.

    Breeding Conditions

    Start by providing a breeding tank that is at least 20 gallons. A few weeks before breeding, make it a point to separate the males and females as this will increase their interest to spawn. When you’re ready, release the males and females in at the same time. Avoid rough handling.

    Drop the temperature slowly to around 60ยฐF, then gradually warm it at 3ยฐF until spawning occurs. Usually, when the temperature is between 68ยฐ and 74ยฐF, spawning will begin. This is a good time to feed your pearlscales live food such as worms and brine shrimp. Try to feed at least thrice a day. As for water changes, you should aim to make partial changes of about 20% per day.

    How to Tell if Your Pearlscales Will Start Breeding

    As the tank temperature increases, the male pearlscale will chase the female around (not aggressively) for several days. Both males and females will have a vivid, more intense color.

    If you see a gyrating action in your freshwater fish, that means they’re spawning. The female will be pushed against any plants inside the aquarium during the process, which will cause tiny eggs to drop out, which can then be fertilized.

    Goldfish eggs

    The spawning process can last up to 3 hours and produce about 10,000 eggs. Once this is done, remove the goldfish from the breeding tank, because they will start trying to eat the eggs. In 4 to 7 days thereafter, you should have a brand new group of juvenile pearlscale goldfish.

    Health and Disease

    Signs of Health

    If your pearlscales have shiny scales and eyes, are swimming about their tank most of the day, and feed periodically throughout the day, you can safely assume that they’re healthy and happy. They should also retain their round body shape.

    Signs of Ill Health

    If your fancy goldfish seem lethargic, arenโ€™t eating much, have pale skin, are hollow-bellied, or have fraying fins or scale loss, that means their health or life expectancy is compromised. Hereโ€™s what might be ailing them:

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Pearlscale goldfish are prone to being afflicted by all common freshwater fish diseases, such as fin rot, ich, flukes and fungus.

    Because pearlscale goldfish have long and flowy fins, they are particularly prone to fin rot, which mainly occurs in poor quality water. So to prevent this, you should aim to provide high quality water for your goldfish.

    Swim bladder disease is another commonly occurring disease in pearlscale goldfish. This is due to the compactness of their intestinal tract, which is easily affected by taking in too much food or even air. I go over swim bladder, dropsy and other serious goldfish aliments in my freshwater fish diseases post.

    Where to Buy

    As a common fancy goldfish, pearlscales are readily available in most pet shops, both online and off. However, the finest pearlscales are typically imported from countries like China. It is best to work with a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) online fish store to get select varieties.

    Closing Thoughts

    After this post, you should have a better understanding of the care and maintenance required for pearlscale goldfish. If you’re interested in learning more about freshwater fish or if you’ve been considering getting one as your first pet, please leave me a comment below! I’m happy to answer any questions that may come up while reading this blog post.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Cherry barbs are one of my favorite recommendations for anyone setting up a community tank โ€” especially those who love the idea of barbs but are concerned about fin nipping. Unlike tiger barbs, cherry barbs are genuinely peaceful fish that get along well with most community species. And when males are in breeding condition, they turn a vivid crimson red that looks spectacular against green plants. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve pointed a lot of people toward cherry barbs as a starter fish that stays manageable while still delivering real visual impact. They’re also surprisingly easy to breed if you want to try that side of the hobby.

    A Brief Overview Of The Cherry Barb

    The Cherry Barb is scientifically called Puntius titteya , they are one of the friendlier barbs you can purchase in the aquarium hobby and are ideal for a community tank. They are also great barb fish for planted tanks as the male’s reds contrast well with many green plants.

    Scientific NamePuntius titteya
    Common Name (Species)Cherry Barb
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginSri Lanka
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive, social
    SizeUp to 2 inches
    Lifespan4 years (up to 7)
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size25 Gallons
    Temperature Range73 โ€“ 81 Degrees F
    KH4 – 7
    pH Range7.2 โ€“ 7.5
    Filtration/Flow RateClam to Moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, easy to breed
    CompatibilityPeace community species
    Ok For Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origins and Habitat

    The Cherry Barb originates from Sri Lanka from the Cyprinidae family. The fish live in freshwater ponds and slow-moving water sources across Sri Lanka. These freshwater fish have also been found in Columbia and Mexico, where they have adapted well to their surroundings.

    The fish thrive in tropical rainforest conditions where the temperature rarely changes.

    Even though the Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is thriving in the aquarium scene, the fish is now vulnerable in its natural environment. This is due to its popularity with aquarium owners and the disappearing waters in their shrinking natural habitat. Fortunately, these fish are now tank bred and easy to find in fish stores.

    What Do Cherry Barbs Look Like?

    Cherry Barbs are long, thin, brightly colored fish. As the name suggests, they are bright red, with the male species generally being more vibrant than the females, which are more of a tan color. The females also look fatter than the males.

    Cherry Barb Care Infographic

    All Cherry Barbs have a dark line that runs along the whole of their body. This is a solid brown line, but due to their scales, it can look dotted.

    Their fins are quite small and can look translucent. The dorsal fin is shaped like a half shell and is halfway down its back. When they swim, this fin lies flattened so that they look like little torpedoes gliding through the water.

    How Big Are They?

    A Cherry Barb can grow up to 2 inches in length. Male Cherry Barbs are slightly smaller than the females. The size of your fish can depend on the care given and may only grow to one inch in length.ย 

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Cherry Barb generally lives for between three and five years. However, with lots of looking after and Cherry Barb care, the fish can live up to seven years.ย 

    Some owners have reported Cherry Barbs living up to eight years. This could be possible with the right care and attention and includes the correct habitat, water parameters, and tank mates.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    These fish are peaceful and like nothing better than swimming around all day in their group. You should buy Cherry Barb fish together due to their schooling nature; they like to swim around in groups. This gives them the feeling of safety and security when swimming together.

    They are active fish and enjoy swimming quite fast. They are also curious fish who like searching things out. They may spot something that they want to explore and leave the group for a second but will always return.

    The only time that you will see any signs of aggression from the Cherry Barbs will be while mating. Males will then dominate the female and other males.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Cherry Barb Tank Mates

    Due to their peaceful nature and social temperament, Cherry Barb tank mates can be many other fish species. They prefer to school in a group of other Cherry Barb fish, so keep this in mind when getting other fish.

    Good Tank Mates

    The best Cherry Barb tank mates for these fish would be other peaceful smaller fish species that share the same nature as your Cherry Barbs. They also enjoy sharing the tank with larger bottom dwellers. 

    Some of the best fish species for tank mates would be:

    They are also suited to shrimp and other invertebrates, such as Ghost Shrimp, Cherry Shrimp, or Mystery Snails

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Cherry Barbs can be quite shy around other fish species, so itโ€™s better to avoid larger or more aggressive fish species. Any fish that can fit the barb in its mouth should be avoided. Other more aggressive barbs like the Cherry Barb should be avoided.

    What Do They Eat?

    Cherry Barbs will eat anything that you give them. These fish are omnivores and enjoy a diet of both plant-based and live foods. High-quality flake, freeze dried, and frozen foods can provide the required nutrients, along with some protein-rich food such as brine shrimp, black worms, or bloodworms to supplement their daily diet.

    What About Live Foods?

    The fish enjoy live foods, and these should be given to them regularly. A Cherry Barb will eat most things but prefers a diet including brine shrimp and bloodworm.

    How Much and How Often To Feed?

    You should aim to start feeding the fish twice per day. If they donโ€™t eat everything they are given straight away, give them less on the next feed.ย Be careful not to overfeed your Cherry Barb fish, as this can lead to all kinds of health problems.ย 

    Tank Requirements

    You should make sure that you have the right sized tank and environment for your Cherry Barb fish. They are easy to look after as long as they have the right conditions and habitat.

    Tank Size

    As Cherry Barbs are schooling fish, you should allow for around six fish initially. The minimum tank size should be between 25โ€“30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    The natural habitat for these fish is shallow water with lots of live plants, so you should try to re-create this where possible. They are naturally a timid fish, and will not be as social without the comfort of plants. You should try to have some plants on the surface of the tank to help them to feel at home. Some of the best plants to choose from are water wisteria, hornwort, and anacharis.

    Dark sand or fine gravel is an excellent substrate for your Cherry Barb. This offers a similar environment to their natural habitat of a dark, silty base. This, along with a well-planted tank, will give them the right environment. In an aquascaped environment, active aquarium soil is a consideration for rooted and carpeting plants.

    The dark substrate will also add to the aesthetics of your fish tank with the black substrate against the bright red of the fish. Itโ€™s a color explosion!

    Water Quality

    These freshwater fish are a pretty hardy fish and can tolerate a range of water changes and conditions. However, you should ensure that the water quality is suitable for the fish to avoid any illness.

    Filtration

    A standard hang-on back filter should be suitable for your Cherry Barb care, which will keep the water clean at all times. The filter should have a gentle flow as the fish are used to slow-moving water and will not do well in fast currents. For a planted tank, a canister filter is a good consideration to provide added mechanical filtration and flow.

    Water Parameters

    The ideal water parameters for your Cherry Barb freshwater fish would be:

    • Water temperature: 73ยฐFโ€“81ยฐF
    • pH level: 7.2 โ€“ 7.5
    • Water hardness: 5 dHโ€“19 dH

    Aquarium Maintenance

    To give your Cherry Barbs a healthy fish life, you must ensure that your aquarium is maintained to a high standard. The water should be kept clean, and parameters met at all times to give the best Cherry Barb care. The tank should also be cleaned regularly.

    Test Water Conditions

    Your tank water should be tested regularly to make sure that the parameters are met. By investing in high-quality water test kits, this will give you the accurate result that you need for your Cherry Barb fish.

    The water should be tested for the following elements:

    • pH: This is the power of hydrogen level that tells you how acidic or alkaline the water is. 
    • Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fishโ€™s waste and is toxic for your fish.
    • Nitrite: Ammonia is broken down to make nitrite which is also toxic.
    • Nitrate: You should not have more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Once you have bought everything you need, you will need to set up your Cherry Barb tank.

    How To Set Up a Fish Tank

    The first thing to do when setting up your fish tank is to make sure that everything is clean. You shouldnโ€™t use any soap or disinfectant to clean as this may harm your fish; rinsing under water is sufficient.

    The substrate should then be added to the tank, a couple of inches is plenty. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrateโ€”this will make the process of adding water easier.  The filter and heater should then be added but not switched on just yet.

    Dechlorinated tap water can then be added to the tank. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate isnโ€™t displaced all over the tank. To make the water fish-friendly, you need to start the nitrogen cycle. A little liquid ammonia should be added to the water to start the cycle.

    Your decorations and live plants can then be added, making sure that these have been rinsed through. Live plants can be planted in pots or directly into the substrate, and all damaged leaves should be removed.

    The filter system and heater should then be switched on and kept on all day and all night. Your live plants need light to survive, so your lighting should be switched on also. 

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    The tank is then ready, but you shouldnโ€™t add your fish just yet. The tank should be left to establish itself without fish for at least 10 days. The water parameters should then be tested to make sure that they are appropriate. All water parameters should be correct before adding any fish, or they wonโ€™t survive in the tank.

    Once you have reached the correct parameters in your fish tank, you can then add your fish. 

    Health and Disease

    The Cherry Barb is quite a hardy fish species; however, they can still be susceptible to ill health.

    Signs of Health

    Prevention is far better than curing illness, and you should make sure that your fish are looked after. This will help to avoid many illnesses that can affect the fish. 

    A healthy Cherry Barb is colorful and should be actively swimming around the tank with its group.

    Signs of Ill Health

    The first sign of ill health in a Cherry Barb would be changes in the behavior of your fish. If you notice anything different, check your fish out. Some of the changes in behavior could be: lethargy, not eating, or rubbing their body on the tank. They could also be suffering from ripped fins, which is a sign that there is something wrong.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    The most common disease in your fish would be Ich. This is also known as white spot disease, and the water should be treated with an Ich medication to get rid of this. 

    They can also suffer from other conditions, such as velvet disease, fin rot, and dropsy. These conditions are all curable as long as they are correctly treated in time. Your fish may need to be quarantined while being treated. Check out my freshwater fish disease article for identification and treatment of the most common diseases in our hobby.

    Breeding

    Cherry Barbs are easy fish to breed and will spawn often. The breeding process is simple compared to other fish species. The time-consuming work is in the preparation. You will need to set up a breeding tank with a similar habitat to their permanent tank.

    You will need two tanks or will need to separate a tank into two areas, one for the breeding pair and one for the eggs. Cherry Barbs will eat the eggs once spawned if they are not separated. The breeding tank will need to be well planted as they like to hide and protect their eggs in the plants. 

    Once ready to spawn, the males will become more aggressive and start to chase the female. He will also become brighter in color, as will she. The female can lay between 200 and 300 eggs, and these will be scattered over the plants and substrate. You need to quickly remove these once spawned and put them in a separate tank.

    Be careful not to add your female fish back into the permanent tank as soon as she has spawned her eggs. She will be tired and needs to regain her strength before being put back in with the male fish.

    The fry will hatch over the next few days and should be fed on foods such as vinegar eels or micro worms. After a further couple of days, they will begin to swim around. As they get bigger, they can start to be fed on larger live foods like brine shrimp.

    The fry will reach adulthood at around two months old, and at this point, they can be added to the permanent tank with other fish.

    Are Your Cherry Barbs Male or Female?

    There are a few ways that you can tell if your Cherry Barbs are male or female. The first one would be their color. The males are generally a brighter cherry red color, where the females are paler in color and can be tan or almost white.

    The lateral line that is found along the whole of their body from the head to the tail is different. This is a darker brown color in the female Cherry Barb than the male. The last difference would be the shape of the fish. The female Cherry Barb is slightly rounder in shape in the stomach area than the male; the male fish is slimmer.

    Availability

    You can buy both male Cherry Barbs and female Cherry Barbs from most pet stores as well as online fish stores. Make sure that you purchase your fish from a reputable supplier and that they are healthy fish. You donโ€™t want to buy fish that arenโ€™t looked after and could spread diseases to your other fish.

    What You Need to Buy

    You need to start with the right tank with lighting and a filter system. They are a tropical fish, so you should invest in a heater for the tank. You should then get the substrate, plants, decorations, quality fish food, and maintenance equipment. 

    To clean the tank correctly, you should invest in an algae magnet and an aquarium vacuum. You also need to make sure that you have plenty of water testing kits to ensure that your water is at optimal parameters.

    Donโ€™t forget your fish!

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Cherry Barbs are one of the least aggressive barb types you can purchase in the freshwater aquarium trade. They will happily school, are active, and great along with most fish. I would consider them the most well mannered barb you can buy.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    These barbs are schooling fish and are best keep in groups. You should keep at least 5 cherry barbs together in an aquarium. Keeping these fish alone will result in lot of stress and diminished health for your fish.

    Do They Need Heaters?

    A cherry barb will not need an fish tank heater if your room temperature is stable. They will do fine when room temperatures range from 68-72 degrees. If your room stays at this range, you should not need a heater. If you live in a cold climate, you might want to consider one when it gets colder.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is a popular freshwater fish that is easy to care for and will give you hours of relaxing enjoyment. Thereโ€™s nothing better than watching your fish swimming together around the tank. 

    We hope you enjoyed our fish guide, and it gives you the information you need to start your aquarium of colorful Cherry Barbs.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    This guide is part of our Barbs: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular barb species.

    Check out this video covering barb species for your aquarium:

  • How To Care For Oranda Goldfish – A Complete Guide

    How To Care For Oranda Goldfish – A Complete Guide

    Oranda goldfish were one of the first fancy varieties I fell in love with when I started keeping goldfish seriously. That distinctive wen โ€” the fleshy hood growth on top of their head โ€” makes them look almost prehistoric, and yet they’re surprisingly docile and easy to bond with. I’ve kept them in both indoor aquariums and outdoor ponds over the years, and they remain one of my go-to recommendations for anyone looking to step up from common goldfish.

    When you first bring home your new Oranda goldfish, it can be overwhelming with all the things you have to do. You may worry about how much water to change each week and what kind of food to feed them. But don’t fret! I’m here to help!


    I’ll teach you everything there is about caring for your Oranda goldfish – from tank size requirements and the best type of food, to proper feeding techniques and even a few tips on breeding fish. So get ready because we are about dive deep into this fascinating Goldfish!

    A Brief Overview Of The Oranda Goldfish

    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    Common Name (Species)Oranda Goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive, social
    LifespanUp to 15 years
    TempermentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size30 Gallons
    Temperature Range65 – 72 Degrees F
    KH150
    pH Range6.0 โ€“ 8.0
    Filtration/Flow RateModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, Easy to breed
    CompatibilityPeace commuity species
    Ok, For Planted Tanks?With Research

    Origins and Habitat

    The Oranda Goldfish is a beautiful and hardy cold water fish with an interesting history. Originating in China, this variety of goldfish was bred to resemble the Chinese Lion Dog. The lion dog features prominently on many pieces of art, furniture and jewelry as well as serving as guardian for the temples where it was kept!

    They are descendants of Wild Carp and Goldfish (Carassius auratus). They are an artificially cultivated breed, also known as the Red Cap Oranda Goldfish. There are no Oranda Goldfish living in the wild, as they are raised in captivity. Their distant relative, the Prussian Carp, can still be found today in the slow-moving fresh waters of Central Asia.  

    Oranda Goldfish Infographic

    What Does the Oranda Goldfish Look Like?

    Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus are egg-shaped fish and can be identified by the cap on their head. This is a series of outgrowths that can be easily spotted and is also known as the โ€œwenโ€. The head growth develops as the fish ages and normally starts appearing when the fish is four or five months old. They are different than a lionhead or Ranchu goldfish due to their dorsal fin.

    There are different types and colors, with the most common being a shimmering yellow or orange Oranda. Some of the most distinctive Oranda Goldfish species are:

    • Black Oranda Goldfish: This is a stunning but sinister fish thatโ€™s completely black, including its black cap.
    • Blue Oranda: Goldfish These are extremely colorful fish that come in every shade of blue, from light, baby blue to vibrant, cobalt blue. 
    • Red Cap Oranda Goldfish: This Oranda Goldfish is the most popular species. Itโ€™s completely white with a bright red cap that stands out. This fish breed comes from the aquarium Goldfish Carassius auratus.
    Oranda Goldfish Close Up

    (Source)

    How Big Are They?

    Oranda Goldfish generally grow to around 6 or 7 inches. However, they have been known to grow to double this size in well-maintained tanks or ponds. 

    Most of the length of the fish is due to its tail fin, which can be up to two-thirds of its length in some species. The largest Oranda Goldfish ever recorded was a whopping 14 inches long and named Bruce. 

    How Long Do They Live?

    The life expectancy of an Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus is largely dependent on the care given and their surroundings.

    These fancy Goldfish have a potential lifespan of between 10โ€“15 years but have been known to live beyond this, up to 20 years in some cases. Proper care will allow your fish to live beyond the average goldfish lifespan.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Oranda Goldfish peaceful fish with a calm temperament. They keep themselves away from any trouble. They are social and friendly fish. They will get along with most other fish, especially other breeds of Goldfish Carassius auratus.

    They are pretty active and will spend most of the day swimming around the tank. Theyโ€™re great fish to observe, and youโ€™ll never tire of watching them gracefully swimming, digging, and foraging.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Oranda Goldfish are great tank mates and can live with most species, but some are better than others.

    Good Tank Mates

    These fish love spending time with other Oranda Goldfish or similar fancy Goldfish varieties. If you get other species, they should be able to live in the same living conditions and at the same water temperatures. Other fancy variety Cyprinid fish like the Pearlscale Goldfish or Catfish are other freshwater fish that are good tank mates for the Oranda Goldfish. They will also keep the tank clean and clean up after the Goldfish, which can be a little messy. 

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Small fish can be mistaken as a snack for your Oranda Goldfish, so itโ€™s best to avoid putting them together. You donโ€™t want any fin-nippers that could cause damage to your beautiful Oranda, such as Neons, Mollies, or small Barbs.

    Oranda Goldfish are not the quickest swimmers; they like to saunter rather than speed along. This isnโ€™t ideal when racing against a speedy comet for lunch.

    Orandas Together In A Fish Tank

    (Source)

    What Do They Eat?

    Oranda Goldfish arenโ€™t fussy eaters; they are omnivores and will eat pretty much anything. They can be greedy and will eat whatever they can get in their mouths, including any small fish or invertebrates that may be in the tank.

    They like to eat flake foods or pellets and will also eat nutritious spinach or salad. For staple pellet food, I recommend NorthFin Goldfish Food.

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    What About Live Foods?

    Your Oranda Goldfish needs a varied, balanced diet, and live foods are an excellent way to add to this. They like high protein foods, such as bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp, and daphnia.

    How Much and How Often To Feed?

    You should be careful not to overfeed your Oranda Goldfish as they donโ€™t seem to have a full sensor and will just keep eating. Feed younger fish twice a day and adult fish just once a day. 

    Small portions are a good way to control how much your fancy Goldfish eats every mealtime. 

    Tank Requirements

    The tank requirements for Oranda Goldfish are not restrictive, and they can be kept quite simple in the right environment. 

    Oranda Close Up

    (Source)

    Tank Size

    If youโ€™re starting off with just one Oranda, make sure you have the right tank size. It should be at least 20 gallons for one fancy Goldfish. For every additional fancy Goldfish you add to the tank, you should increase the tank size by 10 gallons. 

    They arenโ€™t speedy swimmers, but they do need lots of room, and they can grow quite big, quite quickly. They also create a lot of waste, so a larger tank will help to give a healthier environment for your fish.

    Tank Setup

    Oranda Goldfish arenโ€™t fussy and donโ€™t need much to keep them happy, so their tank setup is relatively easy. 

    They need plenty of space when swimming around, and they have the wen on their head that may compromise their eyesight. With this in mind, you should not over-decorate the tank.  

    Oranda Goldfish like to dig, so make sure that the substrate you choose isnโ€™t sharp and wonโ€™t harm them. Sand or rounded gravel is a good choice, and your fish will have hours of fun digging.

    Freshwater plants are good to have, but these should be hardy as your fish will like to eat the plant leaves. They may also damage more fragile aquatic plants when digging and scattering the sand or gravel. Lighting for your tank isnโ€™t necessary for the fish, but it may help with your live plants. Hardy plants that are column feeders like java fern do well in fish tanks with Orandas.

    Water Quality

    Oranda Goldfish are freshwater fish that can be sensitive to water temperature. Itโ€™s essential to get the water conditions, quality, and temperature just right.

    Filtration

    Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus can be mucky and create a lot of waste, so you need a good filtration system. An efficient filter will remove all toxins from the tank and keep the water clean. 

    However, your fish can become stressed by strong water movement, so keep this in mind when getting a filter. An adjustable flow outlet will help with this, or you can redirect the flow via the plants away from the swimming area. Due to their messy nature, filtration is one of the most important water parameters of oranda goldfish care.

    Water Parameters

    Oranda Goldfish like to be in cooler freshwater with a temperature between 65โ€“72 degrees Fahrenheit. They prefer a neutral pH level, which should be between 6.0โ€“8.0. The water hardness level should be between 4 and 20 dGH.

    As long as you stick within these parameters, your fancy goldfish should live very comfortably. 

    Aquarium Maintenance

    You should maintain your aquarium to a high standard to ensure that your fish are safe and healthy. To keep the water toxin-free and clean from waste, you should complete a 25โ€“30 percent water change each week and check the water hardness.

    You can clean the glass of your tank with an algae magnet. Be careful not to remove all the biofilm and bacteria that make your biological filter effective. To clean the substrate, use an aquarium vacuum. This will pick up all the waste from your fish, any leftover food, and plant debris.

    Your filter media should be cleaned in tank water once a month, depending on your water hardness, to get rid of all the sludge that builds up. This should be replaced as recommended by the manufacturer.

    Test Water Conditions

    To make sure that your water is kept to an optimal standard for your Oranda Goldfish, you should test it once a week before your weekly water change. You can buy strip tests or liquid tests to test your water. Strip tests are quick and easy to use, but liquid tests give a more accurate result.

    The water conditions should be tested for the following content:

    • pH: This shows how acidic or alkaline the water is. 
    • Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fishโ€™s waste and is highly toxic.
    • Nitrite: This is produced when ammonia is broken down and is toxic also.
    • Nitrate: It is recommended to have no more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Once you have everything you need for your fish tank, you need to set it up ready for its new inhabitants. It should be set up to give your Oranda Goldfish the space, oxygen, and healthy lifestyle that they need. 

    How To Set Up a Fish Tank

    The first thing you should do is clean the tank and wash the gravel that will go into the tank. They should be rinsed under running water to remove any dust or dirt. Then put a few inches of the gravel or other substrate into the tank. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrateโ€”youโ€™ll soon find out why.

    Before you add any water to the tank, you need to install the filter and heater, if required. Donโ€™t switch these on just yet, though.

    You then need to start adding dechlorinated tap water. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate doesnโ€™t get moved all over the tank. Tap water alone is no good for your fish; you need to start the nitrogen cycle to make the water safe. A little liquid ammonia needs to be added to the water to start the cycle.

    You can then add your decorations and live plants, making sure that these have been washed thoroughly. Plants should have any dead or damaged leaves removed before planting in the substrate. They can be planted in pots or directly into the substrate.

    The filter system should then be switched on and run 24/7. Live plants require light, so switch any lights on also. If you are looking for a power filter (AKA hang on back filter), the Hagen Aquaclear is my top recommendation.

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    Youโ€™re almost ready, but not quite. You need to leave the tank as it is without adding any fish for at least 10 days. You should then test the water hardness to make sure that itโ€™s suitable. All levels should be correct before adding any fish, or they wonโ€™t survive.

    Once everything is at the right level, you can introduce your fancy Goldfish to their new home.

    Health and Disease

    Oranda Goldfish are pretty resistant to ill health. However, they sometimes get sick, so you need to know how to spot the signs and how to care for them.

    Signs of Health

    Oranda Goldfish are social fish and spend most of their day swimming around the tank. When not swimming, you can find them foraging in the gravel at the bottom of the tank or around the plants. Donโ€™t forget feeding; the greedy Orandas are always on the lookout for food!

    If theyโ€™re doing this, they are generally healthy fish, and you have nothing to worry about. 

    Signs of Ill Health

    There are easy ways to tell if your Oranda is not feeling itself or is ill. The most common signs are:

    • Leaving food and not eating.
    • Rubbing its body on the substrate or plants.
    • Not socializing and avoiding its tank mates.
    • Staying at the water surface.
    • Sitting at the bottom of the tank.
    • Swimming on its side.
    • Sores or ulcers appearing on its skin.

    If you spot any of these signs, check your fish out, as it could be ill. Check out my freshwater fish disease post for info, care, and guides on how to cure common fish diseases.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Goldfish Carassius auratus can suffer from several diseases. Some of these can be treated quite easily, and your fish will make a full recovery.

    The most common disease for Orandas is Ich, which is also known as white spot disease. This is an aquatic parasite that causes tiny white dots to appear on your fancy goldfish. The fish will rub against objects in the tank when affected. The treatment for this is to treat the water with an Ich medication.  

    Orandas can suffer from fungal infections where they have growths on their body. The affected Goldfish should be quarantined away from the other fish, and the water in their tank treated.

    Here are other common diseases that Orandas suffer from:

    • Anchor worms
    • Fish lice
    • Bacterial infections
    • Swim bladder issues
    • External parasites
    • Fungal infection from wounds

    In some varieties, they can suffer from their cap growing and obstructing their vision or preventing them from being able to eat. If this happens, pay a visit to your local pet store for medication that will help.

    Breeding

    Itโ€™s becoming more popular to breed Oranda Goldfish at home, which is relatively easy to do. You should have a separate tank for the breeding pair of Orandas. There, you should recreate the same conditions as the main tank, with the addition of fine leaf plants. The Goldfish will then lay their eggs in the leaves of the plant.

    Feed them plenty of live food before breeding. Once these fancy Goldfish are ready to breed, the color will intensify, and they will chase each other around the tank.

    Female Goldfish Carassius auratus can lay in excess of 10,000 eggs over several hours. Once the eggs are laid, the adults must be removed from the tank straight away so as not to eat the goldfish fry. The eggs typically hatch in less than a week, and the fry should be fed liquid food. Once they are bigger, they can be given baby brine shrimp.

    Availability

    Oranda Goldfish can be found at any fish store or pet store, and they vary in price. They can cost from just a couple of dollars per fish to several hundred dollars for rare breeds, colors, or fancier varieties.

    If you are looking for a specific color such as black or blue or rare variety of fancy Goldfish Carassius auratus species, itโ€™s best to contact an online store with a specialty. However, these will be more expensive than your standard colors. Make sure that you know what you are buying before adding it to your cart. For a guide on the best places to back fish online, check out my guide. You can also shop on this link for WYSIWYG Orandas!

    What You Need to Buy

    Things that you need to buy in the store to give your fancy Goldfish a healthy life would be:

    FAQs

    What size tank do they need?

    Oranda Goldfish need at minimum a 20 gallon tank. While that is the bare minimum, the recommended is at least 30 gallons. A 30 gallon fish tank will allow for more space for your goldfish to grow and thrive.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Generally, an Oranda Goldfish will live up to 15 years in an aquarium environment. There have been cases of these fish actually living longer – usually in larger tanks or well maintained indoor ponds.

    Are They Aggressive?

    Oranda goldfish are not aggressive fish. They are pretty docile and will not act aggressively towards other fish. However, they are foragers. They will pick on animals with barbels like axolotls. This isn’t because they are aggressive, it’s because it’s their nature to forage.

    Do They Need A Heater?

    Oranda Goldfish do not need an aquarium heater. They are coldwater fish and will do well in more home. If anything, the worry with goldfish is in hot climates in the summer where the room temperature can raise to over 78 degrees. In those cases, it is best to consider getting fans or an aquarium chiller to lower the temperature.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus is a diverse fish that comes in all colors and sizes. It looks stunning in your aquarium with its vibrant colors, huge head, and flowing fins. 

    These fancy Goldfish are easy to care for when looked after properly, and they could live for many years. Whether you choose a black or red cap

    We hope you found our guide helpful, and it helps you get started with your new aquarium of beautiful Orandas. If you want a bigger deep dive on goldfish in general, check out my goldfish care guide.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 18 Common Diseases Your Fish May Have (And How to Cure Them)

    18 Common Diseases Your Fish May Have (And How to Cure Them)

    Fish diseases are one of those topics that every hobbyist eventually has to deal with, no matter how careful you are. Over 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen everything from ich wipe out entire tanks to bacterial infections that looked like fin rot but turned out to be something else entirely. The good news is that most common diseases are treatable if you catch them early โ€” and knowing what to look for makes all the difference.

    There are always health risks when owning fish, but this guide to common fish diseases will allow you to identify, diagnose, and provide you with suggestions on what medications to administer to the affected fish. You’ll be able to know what symptoms to look out for and how to prevent them.

    I have a great video to share from our YouTube channel with you to start off. I will also go over treatment plans for every aliment below.

    1. Anchor Worms

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms are not actually a type of worm but a large parasitic crustacean from the Lernaea species that can live on your pet fish. Pond fish are most commonly infected with this species. They will attach to their skin and bury their head into their muscles.

    Symptoms of Anchor Worms

    A common sign with Anchor worms would be red and inflamed scales. If you look close enough, you may even be able to see the body of these parasites sticking out! Their bodies will look like whitish green thread stuck to your fish. You may also notice that your fish is rubbing its body up against things in its tank. Other symptoms may include lethargy, ragged fins, and mucous production.

    Treatment of Anchor Worms

    For larger species, anchor worms can usually be easily removed by carefully pulling on the body of the parasite. After you have removed the parasites, you can apply topical antibiotic ointment to their scales.

    Treatment includes using anti-parasitic medications and performing water changes. It would be best if you also cleaned the whole tank to get rid of any of the eggs, larvae, or parasites in the tank.

    For smaller species, using Hiraki USA Cyropro works without affecting your biological filtration.

    2. Bacterial Infections

    Your fish can get a bacterial infection. These commonly happen after an injury. A common bacteria you will encounter is Aeromonas salmonicida1.

    Aeromonas salmonicida

    Causes of bacterial infections

    Many times the cause of these bacterial infections is due to poor water quality and poor diet. This can cause stress in your fish leading to a lower immune system and allow any bacterial infection to set in.

    Signs of a bacterial infection

    For a bacterial infection, these are some of the most common signs that you will see:

    • Red spot on the fish’s body
    • Ulcers on gills
    • Enlarged eyes
    • Swollen abdomen

    Other signs are rapid gill movement, discoloration, and skin ulcers.

    Treatment of bacterial infections

    If a bacterial infection occurs, your vet will prescribe antibiotics based on the bacteria that is present. There are some medications that you can buy online or at a local aquarium store to help treat bacterial infections.

    Administer antibiotics to handle the infection. A popular brand for many hobbyist to recommend is API’s Furan-2 or Triple Sulfa. These are medications that you put into their water. Livestock will need to be transferred to a quarantine tank or hospitalized tank while they are being treated. Before going back to their main tank, the issue with the tank would need to be corrected, and the tank cleaned.

    Also consider adjusting the tank population to control the spread and preventing in the future. Many bacterial infections are usually caused by unclean water and other factors.

    3. Constipation

    If your fish can not poop, they will quickly become constipated. This can cause them to become very ill.

    Causes of Constipation

    There are two main causes of constipation:

    1. Improper diet
    2. Parasite infections

    Both of these can cause your fish to not be able to properly pass feces

    Symptoms of Constipation

    If your fish is constipated you may notice a bloated abdomen. Constipation can cause them to develop swim bladder disease so you will see signs of buoyancy issues, such as difficulty swimming. Other indicators include loss of appetite and bloating.

    Treatment of Constipation

    One of the easiest ways to treat a constipation is enhance nutrition by increasing the amount of fiber in their diet and use deworming medications. Another way to treat constipation is to dose your fish tank with Epson salt (API sells a product that is easy to find in stores). Adding 1 to 3 teaspoons of salt per every 5 gallons of water will help. Epson salt will act as a muscle relaxant and help them be able to poop easier.

    4. CO2 Poisoning

    CO2 levels over 30 ppm can be dangerous for aquatic animals. This issue can arise with fish tanks that use CO2 injection in planted tanks.

    Signs of CO2 Poisoning

    If your aquarium has high levels of CO2 you will notice rapid breathing and gasping for air. You also may notice that these fish are spending more time near the surface of the tank. Also look for abnormal swimming, breathing difficulty, and lethargy.

    Causes of CO2 Poisoning

    CO2 poisoning in can be caused by your CO2 reactor not working, or your plants not absorb CO2 due to the lights not working properly.

    Treatment for CO2 Poisoning

    The best way for you to treat CO2 poisoning is to use an air stone to agitate the surface. This causes the carbon dioxide to dissipate from the water. You can also adjust the rate of CO2 injection in your tank.

    5. Flukes

    Gill Fluke

    Flukes are external parasites (Source- Cuttlebrook Koi Farm). Most flukes will affect fish gills. The two most common flukes that are seen are Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus. There can be body flukes or gill flukes. Let’s discuss the causes.

    Causes of Flukes

    These flukes can commonly enter your aquarium from another fish that is infected with flukes.

    Symptoms of Flukes

    Flukes will attach themselves to your fish’s gills and skin. This can damage these areas leading to a secondary bacterial infection. Other symptoms include slime coat changes and gill damage.

    Treatment of Flukes

    The most effective treatment for flukes is Praziquantel. Apply antifungal treatments and conduct veterinary consultations or expert hobbyists for proper management. After you have treated these flukes, you can treat any wounds that these flukes they left with antibiotics.

    6. Clamped Fins

    Clamped Fins is just like it sounds, it occurs when your fish’s fins are clamped close to their body.

    Causes of Clamped fins

    Most fish will hold their fins very close to their body if the water condition is not correct. It could also be caused by external parasites.

    Symptoms of Clamped Fin

    For clamped fin, you may notice lethargic behavior and holding their fins very close to their body even while swimming. They may exhibit clamped fins along with white patches and spinal deformities.

    Treatment of Clamped Fins

    If you see symptoms of clamped fins, it is best for you to check your water conditions. Also, look for any external parasites. If you see any parasites, you will need to manually remove the parasites. Isolate new additions and implement UV sterilization to prevent spread in the future.

    7. Dropsy

    Dropsy is a term used to describe a fish that is swelling due to kidney disease.

    Symptoms of Dropsy

    Usually, the signs of dropsy that are seen are a slightly swollen belly all the way to a very swollen abdomen so much that their scales will stick straight out, causing them to look like a pinecone. Other notable symptoms include scale loss and exophthalmia (bulging eyes).

    Cause of Dropsy

    There are many things that can cause your fish to have kidney issues. These are some common reasons:

    • Stress
    • Polycystic Kidney Disease

    Treatment for Dropsy

    The first thing to do about Dropsy is to put the affected animal in a quarantine tank. This can help eliminate the stress that may be in the display tank if they improve while in the quarantine tank, there is a stressor in the main tank that needs to be addressed. This may be poor water quality, parasites, overcrowding, or something else. Try to figure out what is causing the stress, and fix this issue.

    Dropsy is a serious disease that can lead to the loss of your prized pet’s life. It is best for you to see a vet. Some vets will see fish; however, it may be hard to find one near you. Reaching out to your local aquarium store, you may be able to get suggestions on who to see to help treat your fish.

    I know both of these are not always available to some, so I’m going to defer to Lori’s Hartland’s experience on how she cured her Goldfish using a triple treatment of Kanaplex, Metroplex & Epsom Salt. Here is the full video below that walks you through her experience. It’s also very important to see her experience with her vet call at 19:06. She had to take a phone consultation, which is going to be what most will get when consulting a vet for a smaller species.

    Other blog material you find may tell you to use salt baths, but in my experience, this doesn’t work too well. Lori’s treatment plan and using wheelchairs have been the most effective for me.

    8. Freshwater Ich

    Ichthyobodo is a protozoan parasitic infection seen in fish who are stressed.

    Symptoms of Ich

    Ich attacks your fish’s gills and skin. These parasites will cause your fish to have a grey color to their skin. You will notice that the affected animal will be lethargic, weak, and not want to eat. You may notice that they spend more time near the top of the tank, gulping air or rubbing their side on their tank. Also, watch for white feces, scratching against objects, and rapid gill movement.

    Freshwater Ich

    Cause of Ich

    Stress is the main cause of Ich. This can be due to poor water conditions, overcrowding, or illness. When your fish is stressed, it leads to a lower immune system and allows this protozoal parasite to take over.

    9. Freshwater Velvet (Gold Dust Infection)

    Freshwater Velvet

    Velvet disease in fish can be very deadly for your whole tank. This disease can quickly wipe out everything in your tank.

    Symptoms of Velvet

    Fish who have velvet will be scratching their body against any hard surface in the tank. This is to try to remove the parasites from their skin. They may also display some of the following signs:

    • Lethargic
    • Rapid Breathing
    • Not eating and weight loss
    • Holds fins next to body
    • Labored or rapid breathing
    • Yellow to rust color dust on the body
    • Pealing of the skin in severe cases
    • Cloudy eyes

    Causes of Velvet

    Velvet is caused by the parasite Oรถdinium pillularis or Oรถdinium limneticum. These parasites are common in tropical fish and may be present in many aquariums but only cause issues if your fish is stressed, sick, being transported, has a sudden, temperature change or has poor water quality.

    Treatment of Velvet

    If your fish has velvet, you do a few things to help with treatment.

    • Increase the temperature of the water by just a few degrees. Monitor water temperature to ensure it stays elevated.
    • Dim the aquarium lights for a few days
    • The treatment of choice for velvet is copper sulfate for 10 days. A good brand to look for is Copper Power or SeaChem Cupramine. DO NOT use copper sulfate in a displayer tank. A removal of the sick fish to a quarantine tank is a must!

    Velvet can many times be prevented by quarantining any new additions that you are planning on adding to your tank, providing your aquatic livestock with a proper diet, and maintaining good water quality. If you came here to get info on the saltwater version, check out Mark’s article on Marine Velvet.

    For future prevention, consider implementing biosecurity measures like quarantining new additions.

    10. Fungus

    Saprolegina

    The two common fungus infections seen in the freshwater side of the hobby are:

    • Saprolegnia2 and 
    • Ichthyophonus hoferi 

    Symptoms of Fungal Infections

    Fungal infections can cause damage to internal organs. Common signs seen in fish with fungal infections are grey cotton-like growths and coloration seen on the skin, gills, fins, and around the eyes.

    Causes of Fungal Infections

    Fungal infections are caused by unclean water conditions and dead and decaying organic material in your tank.

    Treatment of Fungal Infections

    The first thing you need to do to treat fungal infections is to clean their tank fully. Then using potassium permanganate that you put into your aquarium water. You will want to make sure that you have removed any external pathogens from your fish’s skin.

    A popular brand of fungal treatment that you can use after fully cleaning your aquarium is API Fungus Cure. Apply this topical treatment and disinfect aquarium equipment to control the fungus.

    You can also increase the water temperature to 82 degrees as most of these fungal infections thrive in colder temperatures.

    11. Gill Mites

    Gill Mites

    Gill mites3 are common parasites that are seen in aquariums. These parasites attach to your fish’s skin and feed on their blood.

    Symptoms of Gill Mites

    If gill mites are present, you will notice that their gills do not fully close. These mites prevent the gills from being able to function properly. This will cause your fish to spend most of its time at the surface of the tank gasping for air. Also look for abnormal swimming and red streaks on the body.

    Causes of Gill Mites

    These mites enter your tank from new livestock additions who already have these mites. This is one reason why it is advised to always quarantine any new additions before adding them to your aquarium.

    Treatment of Gill Mites

    To treat gill mites, you will need to use medications such as sterazin and octozin. You will need to repeat this treatment about 5 days later to kill any other mites that may have hatched.

    I read somewhere that another blog stated apply immunostimulants and adjust lighting conditions for recovery. I think that’s false. You can refer to this article regarding immunostimulants in fish – they aren’t well studied.

    12. Hole In The Head

    Hole In The Head Disease

    Hole in the head disease (also known as Hexamita) is seen when there are small indentions in your fish’s head or along their lateral line.

    Symptoms of Hole in the Head

    A common symptom of hole in the head are small indentions into their skin. These will start as slight depressions and can advance to more severe holes. Some fish with this illness will stop eating. This disease often causes fecal changes and parasitic cysts.

    Causes of Hole in the Head

    Hole in the head is caused by a a protozoan called Hexamita. It is a common disease in Discus. Another factor is deficiency of minerals in water due to the use of RODI water or excessive usage of activated carbon.

    Treatment of Hole in the Head

    The best way to treat this is in a quarantine tank and treating with Metronidazole or API General Cure.

    You can feed medicated food using focus and General Cure or Metro.

    13. Hemorrhagic septicemia

    Hemorrhagic septicemia

    Hemorrhagic septicemia is a deadly viral infection seen in fish caused by Piscine novirhabdovirus.

    Symptoms of Hemorrhagic septicemia

    This disease will cause bleeding in their internal organs, muscles, and skin. This can be seen as small red dots on your fish’s skin. You can also see some of the following symptoms:

    • Pale gills,
    • Dark-colored body,
    • Fluid accumulation in the body,
    • Bulging eyes 

    Other signs include hemorrhages and sudden death in livestock.

    Treatment of Hemorrhagic septicemia

    There is no really good treatment for this disease. Many fish who get this illness will die of this infection. You can try to clean the tank and increase the temperature of the water that the fish are in a few degrees. You can try to administer antibiotics such as:

    • API Triple Sulfa
    • Kanamycin
    • Thomas Labs Fish Mox

    Do not use carbon filters when using medications. While they improve water quality, they will remove medication.

    14. Lice

    Your fish can get external parasites such as lice. Fish lice are small parasites that can attach to the skin and suck blood, causing the fish to become anemic.

    Symptoms of Lice

    If your fish has lice you may see a small clear disc laying next to their body. Most fish who have lice infestation are pale due to the lice sucking blood. They may also be rubbing against surfaces in the tank as they try to remove the lice themselves. This can cause them to have external wounds on their skin. Other symptoms may include isolation from the group and skin ulcers.

    Treatment of Lice

    The best way to treat lice is to physically remove all the lice from your fish’s skin. If there are any external wounds, you can treat these areas with topical antibiotic ointment. Over the counter medication of choice would be diflubenzuron under the brand name Dimilin-X. It’s an anti-parasitic medication highly effective at eliminating lice.

    Consider implementing quarantine protocols going forward to prevent future infections.

    15. Pop-Eye

    Popeye Fish

    Pop-eye is due to a bacteria infection that causes one or both eyes to pop out of the socket.

    Symptoms

    This condition is usually very easy to diagnose as you will see bulging eyes (also known as exophthalmia) protruding from their eye sockets. Behavioral changes that include loss of appetite are also common symptoms.

    Causes

    Pop-Eye is usually due to a bacterial infection. It can also be due to vitamin A deficiency, mass behind the eye, or poor water quality.

    Treatment

    Pop-eye is commonly treated with tetracyclines. You can get this medication from your local veterinarian. Also, you will need to check the water quality in your tank and fully clean their tank. If you cannot get a medication from a vet, you can try over the counter sulfa drugs like SeaChem SulfaPlex.

    16. Swim Bladder Infection

    The swim bladder is an organ in your fish that contains oxygen and other gases so that they can be buoyant. If their swim bladder does not function properly, they will have trouble maintaining their desired depth.

    Symptoms

    One of the main signs that you will see with swim bladder disease is that your fish has a hard time staying upright in their tank. They may also spend a lot of time near the surface or deep in the tank. They will have abnormal swimming and a loss of appetite.

    Causes

    Poor water quality and stress are common causes of this condition. Newly purchased fish may get this disease if transported incorrectly (common with imports or species caught in the wild). If you notice that your fish cannot maintain proper buoyancy, the first thing you need to check is the water quality in your tank.

    Treatment

    If your fish does have swim bladder disease, it would be best for you to see an aquatic vet. An aquatic vet is able to perform a procedure to release the air from the swim bladder to correct the issue (known as venting). They will also recommend that you test your tank’s water condition and perform water changes of about 10%.

    Fish who have trouble staying upright or spend a lot of time near the tank’s bottom may need to learn how to be hand fed. This will help ensure that your fish is getting the proper nutrition that it needs to survive. Hobbyists have also tried making harnesses to keep their pet upright, like the video below. Check out Mark Kennedy’s video for the full walk-through. The harness solution is most effective with fancy goldfish.

    17. Tail and Fin Rot

    Causes of Tail and Fin Rot

    Fin rot is usually caused by unclean and improper water quality and an injury to one of these areas. This cut or abrasion can then easily get infected due to unclean water. This can cause these areas to rot.

    Signs of Tail and Fin Rot

    You will see fraying and torn fins (or fin erosion), ragged fins, tails, and nodules on the skin.

    Treatment of Tail and Fin Rot

    There are medications that you can get to treat these infections, such as SeaChem KanaPlex and API Fin and Body Cure. You can also use Methylene Blue from Kordon to treat your tank. It is best to put 1 drop per every 2 gallons of water. When using Methylene Blue, you will need to do a 50% water change every other day for a week.

    18. Mouth Rot

    Mouth rot is caused by a fungus called Flavobacterium bacteria.

    Signs of Mouth Rot

    Look for discoloration and white patches on the mouth area. If your fish has mouth rot, you will see a white cotton-like appearance around their mouth. If this is left untreated, the skin around their mouth will start to rot.

    Causes of Mouth Rot

    This is usually caused by unkept water conditions and stress. This lowers their immune system causing fungus to take over.

    Treatment of Mouth Rot

    There are many antifungals that you can buy at your local aquarium store to help treat this issue such as:

    You should also try to figure out what is causing your fish to be stressed and check the water condition.

    Other Common Illnesses

    In addition to the diseases already covered, there are several other common ailments and parasites that can affect fish in aquariums and ponds. I didn’t have the space in this post to cover them all but here is the list so you can be aware of them. Over time, I will do blog posts about these.

    1. White Spot Disease – A highly contagious parasitic disease common in ornamental fish.
    2. Neon Tetra Disease – Affects neon tetras, causing wasting and color loss.
    3. Fish Tuberculosis – A bacterial disease that can be serious.
    4. Columnaris DiseaseColumnaris is a bacterial infection known for affecting gills, mouth, and skin.
    5. Nitrite Poisoning – Occurs due to high levels of nitrite in water.
    6. Ammonia Poisoning – Caused by elevated ammonia levels in the aquarium.
    7. Black Spot Disease – Parasitic infection causing black spots on skin.
    8. Lymphocystis – A viral disease causing growths on fins and body.
    9. Red Pest Disease – Bacterial infection causing red streaks on the body.
    10. Vibriosis – A bacterial infection affecting internal organs.
    11. Whirling Disease – Causes erratic swimming and skeletal deformation.
    12. Camallanus Worms – Intestinal parasites visible near the fish’s anus.
    13. Oodinium – Also known as โ€œRustโ€ or โ€œMarine Velvetโ€ disease.
    14. Carp Pox – Causes waxy, skin growths primarily in koi and carp.
    15. Cotton Wool Disease – A fungal infection that looks like cotton wool.
    16. Koi Sleeping Disease – Affects koi and carp, causing lethargy.
    17. Scale Protrusion – Scales protrude due to fluid buildup.
    18. Nematode Infections – Roundworm infections.
    19. Epistylis – A parasitic infection causing cotton-like tufts on the body.
    20. Brooklynella – A protozoan parasite affecting the skin and gills. Clownfish are susceptible
    21. Chilodonella – A parasitic infection affecting skin and gills.
    22. Uronema Marinum – A marine parasite causing severe damage.
    23. Argulus (Fish Louse) – A large, visible parasite that attaches to the host’s body.
    24. Skin Ulcers – Often bacterial in nature, causing open wounds on the body.

    Prevention Steps

    There are many things that you can do at home to help prevent many of these issues. Your aquatic pet’s health depends on the water condition, diet, and levels of stress. To help keep your fish healthy, try doing these best practices below:

    1. Provide a Quality Diet: Your fish should be fed a proper diet every day. Diet will help keep your fish full and not fight with other tankmates in the tank over food.
    2. High Water Quality: Make sure that the water that your fish is living in is clean using highquality power filters or canister filters and at the correct temperature. Also, check to make sure that the levels in your aquarium or outdoor pond are correct.
    3. Observation of tank: It is best to observe all livestock in your aquarium daily. This will let you know if any inhabitants are sick or stressed. Early detection of a disease is easier to treat than one that is not detected until later in the disease stage.
    4. Reducing Stress: Make sure that you reduce the stress in your tank. If you have a fish that is bullying other tankmates or you have just added a new fish to the tank, make sure they are not overly stressed.
    5. Quarantine New Additions: Any addition to your tank should be quarantined for a few weeks to make sure that you are not putting an infected fish (or plant โ€“ yes plants can be infected too!) into your tank. This gives you a few weeks to make sure that your fish is eating and not showing any signs of illness before putting them in your main tank. Mark has a great article on quarantining. It is marine fish based, but the same principle applies for freshwater fish.

    Creating A Medicine Cabinet

    Anyone who has multiple aquariums deals with sick fish. Whether you quarantine or not, it’s a based practice to have medication on hold for emergencies. Here would be common readily available medications that are helpful to have on hand. To summarize all the medications discussed, I have added a table for quick reference.

    TypeMedications
    Parasitic (External)Ich-X, Prazipro
    Parasitic (Internal)General Cure, Seachem Metroplex, SeaChem Focus (To Bind)
    FungalAPI Fungal Cure
    BacterialAPI-Furan 2, Seachem Sulfaplex

    FAQS

    What are the most common issues?

    The most common fish diseases are Ich, internal parasites. Read more about fancy goldfish. Hole in the Head disease is common with Discus.

    How Do You Identify Different types of Infections?

    The most obvious way to identify a disease are external signs. You may notice odd behavior in the fish (such as flashing, scratching), cloudy eyes, or a whitish coatings on its body. Another obvious sign is a skinny fish that is eating, a common sign of an internal parasite. Identifying a disease is critical to treating them in time.

    Can You Get Heath Issues From Them?

    No. You cannot get a disease from an aquarium fish unless you eat them. Since we do not eat our aquarium inhabitants, getting ill from keeping aquariums is very rare. As long as you care for your livestock and clean your hands after putting your hands in your tank, you should not have any concerns with getting sick due to keeping an aquarium.

    How Do you Deal With Health Problems?

    Dealing with disease involves treatment. You must first know what type of disease you are dealing with – parasitic, bacterial, fungal, or internal. Each type has different ways of treating it. There are many store-brand medications these days. For large fish, Vets can prescribe medication. This is more common for large fish like Koi and Cichlid. Small species will often get a consultion from a Vet, but don’t expect them do any procedures.

    How Do I Know If they have Internal Parasites?

    The most obvious way to know if your fish has an internal parasite is weight loss. If your fish is eating and says skinny it likely has an internal parasite. The other is the shape and color of the poop. If you see stringy white poop, this is a sign of an internal parasite. Most internal parasites can be treated with Metroplex


    Want to learn more about how to keep a tank clean? Check out this guide on how to clean an aquarium to learn more.