Tag: Freshwater Fish Profiles

Aquarium shrimp have exploded in popularity over the last decade, and after 25 years in this hobby I completely understand why. Adding a thriving colony of dwarf shrimp to a planted tank — watching the constant movement, the colors, the babies appearing — is genuinely one of the most satisfying things you can do in this hobby. But shrimp are different from fish in one critical way that catches a lot of beginners off guard: they’re extremely sensitive to copper. Many fish medications, fertilizers, and even some tap water additives contain trace copper that fish tolerate fine but that will wipe out an entire shrimp colony. That’s the most important thing to understand before you start. This guide covers 15 aquarium shrimp types, ranging from beginner-friendly to more advanced species, so you can find the right fit for your setup.

What Are Aquarium Shrimps?

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are tiny crustaceans from the Atyidae family. Although there are many different colors available, most of them have been produced through selective breeding and there are just a few very popular species.

The 3 most commonly kept groups of freshwater aquarium shrimps are:

• Caridina species like the Taiwan bee shrimp
• Neocaridina species like the cherry shrimp
• Palaemonetes species like the ghost shrimp

Other freshwater shrimp types that are kept include:

• Atyopsis species like the bamboo shrimp
• Atya species like the vampire shrimp
• Macrobrachium species like the Indian whisker shrimp

Neocaridina vs Caridina

The Neocaridina and Caridina genera are the two most popular aquarium shrimp, and they have been bred into an amazing variety of colors and patterns. Apart from their different color patterns, these freshwater shrimp look very similar, and you need a very well-trained eye to tell them apart based on their body structures.

Nevertheless, these animals come from two distinct genera and cannot breed together. They also have pretty different needs which makes it very important to know exactly which kind of shrimp you are caring for.

The Neocaridina genus includes very popular dwarf shrimp species like red cherry shrimp, babaulti shrimp, and snowball shrimp. Neocaridina species are ideal beginner shrimps that tend to be easy to care for and breed.

Caridina shrimp are better for more experienced shrimp keepers. These awesome animals include freshwater shrimp species like the Sulawesi shrimp/cardinal shrimp.

Top 15 Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Types

Now that you know a little more about the different types of freshwater shrimps, it’s time to get into the fun stuff, and get to know the best-looking and most useful shrimp types for your tank!

For each freshwater shrimp species I’ll be listing the following important care information that you need to know:

• Species
• Difficulty Level
• Adult Size
• pH
• TDS
• GH
• KH
• Diet
• Difficulty to breed
• Gestation Period
• Planted tank suitability

Below is a video from our YouTube Channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe to us on YouTube where we post new videos every week!

So let’s meet some interesting inverts!

1. Fire Red Cherry Shrimp

Fire Red Cherry Shrimp

High quality Cherry Shrimp can now be shipped directly to your door! These premium quality cherry shrimp are a great way to stock your tank!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Number one on this list has to be the fire red cherry shrimp. This is a really popular freshwater shrimp with deeps. This cherry shrimp that is easy to care for and actually helps maintain your tank!

The fire red cherry shrimp is the ideal choice for beginners because they are hardy and easy to feed and breed. These active shrimp are very entertaining and work great in a planted nano tank. Neocaridina davidi is an adaptable species that can be kept in temperatures between about 60°F and 85°F.

2. Amano

Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!

Amano Shrimp

Best For Planted Tanks!

When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina multidentata/ C. japonica
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
• pH: 6.5-8
• TDS: 80-450 ppm
• GH: 1-15dGH
• KH: 1-10dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Amano shrimp was introduced to the hobby by Takashi Amano way back in the 1980s. Since then, these excellent inverts have been a staple in the planted tank hobby because they are algae eaters which makes them a great part of any clean-up crew. They are one of the few shrimps that are known for eating black brush algae.

Amano shrimps are a little larger than cherry shrimp and tend to be relatively long-lived. While they might not have the same bright colors as some of the other Caridina species, The ‘natural’ look is great for nature aquariums. They also will only breed with the same species and cannot successfully reproduce in freshwater only!

3. Blue Dream

Awesome Blues!

Blue Dream Shrimp

The Blue Dream Shrimp is a great shrimp if you are looking for blues in your aquarium. Also a hardy shrimp!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Blue animals can be pretty hard to find for freshwater aquariums. Fortunately, the blue dream shrimp is an excellent exception!

These unique and eyecatching forms of the popular cherry shrimp are just as easy to care for but provide a different dimension of color. These inverts provide a number of benefits for the health of your aquarium, just like regular cherry shrimp.

4. Sunkist Orange

Sunkist Orange Shrimp

These orange shrimp make great additions in a shrimp only or freshwater planted tank. Low maintenance and easy to care for!

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The Sunkist orange is another color variant of Neocaridinia davidi, and these guys really know how to brighten up an aquarium! These shrimp look amazing in planted tanks with a dark substrate that makes their colors pop.

They are also known as orange sakura shrimp, and they are pretty hardy and low maintenance. These shrimp are another great choice for beginner shrimp keepers.

5. Yellow Goldenback

Yellow Goldenback Shrimp

The goldenback offers a yellow shrimp with a translucent line on the middle of their backs. They look amazing in dark backgrounds

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The yellow goldenback shrimp is another form of the cherry shrimp. In terms of color, these inverts pack a lot of punch for such a small animal. These shrimp have a solid gold-yellow line along their back from their nose to their tail, and the rest of the body is a translucent yellow color.

6. Tangerine Tiger

Tangerine Tiger Shrimp

This variety of shrimp offers an orange color with black strips that resemble a tiger. Beginner friendly and will not breed with neocardina shrimp

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina serrata
• Difficulty Level: Moderate
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6.5-7.8
• TDS: 100-250ppm
• GH: 5-6dGH
• KH: 0-5dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The tangerine tiger is a relatively hardy Caridina species. Like the popular Amano shrimp, these crustaceans make a great addition to your tank as a dedicated member of the clean-up crew.

These shrimp are a great starter for keepers who are new to the world of Caridina, and they can even be mixed with Neocaridina species because they will not breed together.

7. Crystal Red

Crystal Red Shrimp

A beautiful looking freshwater shrimp that is more on the difficult side of keeping. A hallmark among shrimp hobbyists

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6-7.5
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The crystal red shrimp is cool-water shrimp that is most at home in water between 64°F and 76°F. They were originally bred from the Taiwan Bee shrimp and their bold colors are reminiscent of the koi fish.

To achieve these colors, they have been selectively bred, and today they are available in a variety of grades. The crystal red shrimp is one of the best-looking inverts in the hobby, but they do require more experience and they tend to be fairly expensive.

8. Green Jade

Deep Green Colors!

Green Jade Shrimp

The Green Jade Shrimp is the best shrimp to buy if you are looking for striking green colors

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The green jade shrimp is a beautiful color variant of the popular cherry shrimp. They have very similar markings to the yellow goldenback, with the same ‘racing stripe’ along their back. They differ in their amazing jade-green body color.

9. Blue Bolt

Blue Bolt Shrimp

The blue bolt shrimp is a Caridina shrimp that offers blue and white colors

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5.6-6.2
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The blue bolt shrimp is a stunning, but difficult to keep, cross between the Taiwan Bee shrimp and the crystal black shrimp. These eye-catching shrimp have speckled whitish bodies, with blue heads and reddish eyes.

10. Red Rili

Red Rili Shrimp

A striking red and white shrimp that is hardy and easier to care for

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The red rili shrimp is a great option for inexperienced keepers who want the red and white colors of something like a crystal red. As a product of selective breeding of the cherry shrimp, they are relatively hardy. Unlike the more expensive crystal shrimp, red rili shrimp have more translucent bodies.

11. Glass (Ghost)

• Shrimp Species: Palaemonetes sp.
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 7-7.8
• TDS: 150-200
• GH: 3-15dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 3 weeks
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

Glass shrimp, which are also known as ghost shrimp, are native to North America. Ghost shrimp are often sold at your local fish store as feeder animals for larger fish, but they actually make awesome pets.

There are a few different species of shrimp known as ghost shrimps, and they get their name from their translucent body. Buying these shrimp can be a bit of a gamble because some ghost shrimp species are actually adapted to brackish or salt water.

12. Chocolate

Chocolate Shrimp

A shrimp with a dark brown color that is easy to care for.

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• Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
• Difficulty Level: Easy
• Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
• pH: 7-8
• TDS: 200-300ppm
• GH: 4-8dGH
• KH: 3-15dKH
• Diet: Omnivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The chocolate or black rose shrimp is a really attractive but understated color morph of the cherry shrimp. Their color varies from an almost red-brown color to brown speckled over a clear yellow body. These shrimp are easy to care for and will be a great addition to a planted tank.

13. Black Pinto

Black Pinto Shrimp

A unique Caridina shrimp with a black and white body and blue highlights. Requires excellent water conditions to keep.

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 6-7.5
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The black pinto shrimp is a selectively bred variant of the bee shrimp. These stunning inverts are best suited for more experienced shrimp keepers because they are sensitive and require excellent water conditions.

14. Black King Kong

King Kong Shrimp

An all black shrimp. A rare shrimp that requires extra care to keep

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate- advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5-6
• TDS: 100-200 ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

These incredibly marked inverts are also known as the panda shrimp or black king kong pandas. They are rare and high-end animals, that come at a cost, but they’re worth it if you ask me! If you’re an experienced shrimp keeper, this type is definitely worth considering.

15. Extreme Wine Red

Extreme Wine Red Shrimp

A very popular shrimp that is best suited for experienced shrimp keepers. Dark red and white coloration

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• Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
• Difficulty Level: Moderate- Advanced
• Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
• pH: 5-6
• TDS: 100-200ppm
• GH: 4-6dGH
• KH: 0-2dKH
• Diet: Herbivorous
• Difficulty to breed: Easy
• Gestation Period: 30 days
• Planted tank suitability: Yes

The extreme wine red shrimp has a very dark red body with lighter-colored legs, tail, and mouthparts. Like the black king kong, these valuable shrimp are descendants of the bee shrimp. The extreme wine red is a hugely popular but rare variant that is best suited to experienced aquarists.

Freshwater Aquarium Tank Setup

Shrimp have much the same needs as tropical fish when it comes to their tank set up. This means an adequately sized aquarium with a filter and a heater(in temperate climates) is necessary. Let’s take a look at how to create the perfect tank environment for your shrimp.

Tank Size

Shrimp are very small animals that contribute very little to the bio-load of an aquarium. For this reason, many shrimp keepers are able to maintain their shrimp in tanks of just a few gallons.

For beginners, however, a larger tank of 10 gallons or more will help in maintaining safe, stable water parameters. For the more sensitive Caridina species, a tank of 15-20 gallons is ideal.

Filtration

Filtration is vital in any aquarium, and freshwater shrimp setups are no different. The type of filter you run in your tank is important, however, especially if you are going to be breeding them.

Shrimp are not the strongest swimmers, and they love looking for new places to hide. This can mean trouble and they can easily be sucked into the intake of a power filter.

I would suggest a simple, air-powered sponge filter, although a hang-on back or internal power filter are also good options as long as you set up a prefilter sponge to keep your pets out of the intake. You can make your own prefilter sponge, or select a model that provides this option.

Flow rate is also important when selecting a filter for your shrimp tank. choosing a model that is designed for your tank size is very important, and an adjustable flow rate will help in keeping the current down.

Substrate

You can keep your shrimp on an inert substrate like sand or gravel. These are good options for non-planted tanks or setups with floating and epiphytic plants.

Active aquarium soils like Tropica Aquarium soil or UNS Controsoil are better options for heavily planted tanks with stem and rosette plants. These soils can also be helpful in buffering the pH and keeping it down to ideal levels.

Tropica Aquarium Soil

A top grade planted tank substrate from Europe. More natural looking than ADA Soil

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Live Plants

Freshwater shrimps do very well in planted tanks. Plants are very helpful for taking up excess nutrients, oxygenating the water, and generally improving water quality. If you’re new to growing live plants, I would suggest starting out with some easy to grow, low-light plants like:

• Java moss
• Anubias species
• Java fern
• Cryptocoryne species

Shrimp can, however, also be kept in high-tech, CO2-injected tanks, provided the gas is kept in the safe range of below 30 ppm.

Freshwater shrimp are very sensitive to copper found in some plant fertilizers. Keep this in mind when picking up any products for your plants.

Freshwater plants are a very common source of unwanted pests in the aquarium. Don’t be discouraged though, there are safe ways to green up your tank. I would suggest growing tissue culture plants to avoid introducing pests like planaria that can kill shrimp.

Water Parameters

When discussing the needs of freshwater shrimp (or any aquarium fish or plant for that matter), aquarists are most concerned with the following parameters:

• pH: The level of the alkalinity or acidity of the water.
• GH: A measure of dissolved salts (particularly magnesium and calcium) in the water
• KH: A measure of the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. These affect the stability of the pH
• TDS: Total dissolved solids in the water, measured in parts per million

The only way to reliably monitor these parameters is to test them regularly.

Don’t sweat it, you don’t need a degree in chemistry for this. All you need is some simple test kits and a TDS meter to start out. They’re easy to use, and pretty fun too!

My Pick

HM Digital TDS Meter

Readily available online, this TDS Meter is perfect for ensuring your levels are optimum for your shrimp

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Water Quality

Together with the parameters listed above, there are some other chemicals found in your water that increase when uneaten fish food and waste accumulate. These are nitrogen compounds called Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. These parameters should be kept at:

• Ammonia: 0ppm
• Nitrite: 0ppm
• Nitrate:<20 ppm

These parameters can also be tested with your strip tests.

Before adding any shrimp to an aquarium, make sure it is fully cycled. A cycled aquarium will not produce any ammonia or nitrite as these harmful chemicals are converted into nitrates by beneficial bacteria.

If this sounds like a different language to you, go ahead and check out my article on fishless cycling.

A build-up of nitrates is to be expected in any tank. This is easily managed by performing regular partial water changes.

Care

Freshwater shrimp are generally easy to care for once you get the basics right. Shrimp are small, sensitive creatures, so slowly and carefully acclimating them to your tank is important. They are naturally social creatures, so make sure you keep them in a group of at least 10 or so.

Read on for some more important shrimp care tips.

Feeding

Shrimp are often kept as part of an aquarium’s clean-up crew. Some species like the Amano shrimp eat algae, and most shrimp will be more than happy to pick up the scraps of leftover fish food. Other freshwater shrimp species like bamboo shrimps, for example, are actually filter feeders.

In the right sort of setup, you might not have to feed your shrimp at all, but this is only really safe in mature established tanks that have some algae and other natural food sources.

In most cases, you’ll want to feed your shrimp a healthy, balanced diet. This can be done once per day, and remember to avoid overfeeding. Let’s take a look at some good freshwater aquarium shrimp food sources:

• Dennerle Shrimp King Food
• SL-aqua spinach powder
• Repashy gel food
• Blanched vegetables

My Pick

Dennerle Shrimp King Food

Great For Freshwater Shrimp!

A color enhancing food for shrimp that will help intensify yellows, oranges, and most importantly red!

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Maintenance

Shrimp need good water quality, and that means regular tank maintenance is necessary. You will need to perform a regular water change in the aquarium once a week or so to remove physical waste and reduce the nitrate levels in the water.

Great care is necessary since shrimp are small and can easily be sucked up by your gravel vacuum. A good workaround for this problem is to fit some fine mesh or stocking over the end of the gravel vacuum.

Be sure to treat the new water with a water conditioner and match the temperature to your tank water before adding it to your aquarium.

Tankmates

One of the most common questions aquarists ask is what kind of fish they can keep with their shrimp. Most shrimp make incredibly peaceful tank mates, but the challenge is that other animals tend to kill or eat them. Unfortunately, this means they don’t always work well in a community tank.

Freshwater snails are one of the best tank mates for your shrimp. I would suggest nerites and mystery snails because they will not breed out of control and compete with your shrimp for food resources.

There are very few fish that are completely shrimp-safe, especially if you are breeding your shrimp. Even adult shrimp can be picked at by surprisingly small fish. To be completely safe, a shrimp-only tank is your best bet.

Keeping fish with your shrimp is possible, however. Let’s take a look at a few potential peaceful fish tank mates:

• Nano livebearers like Endler’s livebearers
• Nano tetras like ember tetras
• Nano rasboras
• Some algae eaters like Otocinclus catfish and small plecos

When choosing fish as tank mates, it is best to assume that any species could be a potential threat to your baby shrimp. To be on the safe side, make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces for your shrimp in case they need to retreat from their tank mates!

Breeding

Breeding your aquarium shrimp can be very easy (video source). The secret to success is simply to provide your shrimp with excellent water quality and the parameters they need to stay healthy. This is a lot easier to do with hardy Neocaridina shrimp species than the sensitive Caridina species.

Although the males tend to be a little smaller, sexing your shrimp is very difficult. For this reason, stating your shrimp colony with at least 10 individuals is recommended since this should provide you with at least a few of either sex.

If your shrimp are happy and healthy, you will probably be amazed to see tiny shrimp in the tank after a little while. Specialist baby shrimp foods are available to give the little ones the perfect nutrition.

Baby shrimp will often be eaten pretty quickly in a community fish tank. Providing them with plenty of cover in the form of floating plants is one way to minimize your losses, but it’s far better to grow your colony in a shrimp-only tank.

Avoid keeping different colors variants in the same tank if you’re going to be breeding your shrimp for specific colors. If they aren’t kept separately, they will breed together and lose their colors, producing pretty dull-looking offspring.

Where To Buy

If you’re looking for ghost shrimp, they can usually be found at your local fish store or even big box stores. For the higher quality and higher grade shrimp, I would check out an online fish store like Buce Plant. Not only do they stock an amazing range, but you can also pick up a couple of tissue culture plants from them at the same time to really get your tank started!

My Pick

Buce Plant

Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

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FAQS

Final Thoughts

Freshwater shrimp are wonderful pets. They don’t need a lot of space, and they’re just as entertaining as fish (if you ask me anyway). The ongoing development of this side of the hobby is very exciting and I can’t wait to see which new breeds and species of shrimp will become available!

Which of the 15 shrimp types in this list do you like best? Let me know below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Axolotls are genuinely affordable to buy — you can find a common leucistic for $20–$40 from a reputable breeder. The part that catches new keepers off guard is the setup cost, specifically temperature. Axolotls need water below 72°F, and in most homes that means a chiller, which runs $100–$200 or more. That’s the single biggest budget item most people don’t plan for. Factor in a properly sized tank, a good filter, and the right substrate (sand only — they’ll ingest gravel and it can kill them), and you’re looking at a real upfront investment before the animal even arrives. Here’s the complete cost breakdown so you’re not surprised.

What are axolotls?

Before digging further, let’s give a quick review of what actually axolotls are and how are they different from other salamanders.

Axolotls are amphibians. However, unlike salamanders, they spend most of their lives underwater. They are close relatives of Tiger salamander and range up to a foot in length. (quite a large size for salamanders)

They typically showcase mottled brown and black colors. However, in some rare and costly varieties, Albino and Leucistic axolotls display a translucent white color with shiny gold flecks and red or pink feathery gills.

How are they different from other salamanders?

Axolotls charm marine experts for their retention of features from the larval stage.

If you’ve seen tadpoles, you know what I’m talking about!

Amphibians; in general, go through a process called metamorphosis. It is a process in which an animal goes through certain developmental changes in the body structure. However, this process doesn’t apply to axolotls.

Axolotls, even in their adulthood retain their larval features including tadpole-like fins and external feathery gills.

One enticing thing about axolotls is that they take their regeneration to the next level. It would surprise you that axolotls cannot only regenerate tissues, but limbs, brains, spines, and even jaws!

How Much Do Axolotls cost?

The average cost of an axolotl doesn’t end with its purchase.

There are several other costs involved; the axolotl tank, accessories, delivery fees, recurring costs, monthly cost, yearly cost, and much more!

So, let’s go budgeting!

The Initial Cost

Axolotls are generally considered inexpensive exotic pets with an initial cost of around $30 to $100; that too for basic and juvenile axolotls.

The price, however, varies for exotic or adult axolotls. Depending on the rarity of morph and the health of the axolotl, rare axolotls like piebald axolotl cost around $100.

The adult Golden Albino axolotl costs around $45. Meanwhile, other varieties with exceptional pigmentations would cost you around $300 to $1500.

Shipping

If you’ve ordered your axolotl online through a reputable store, be sure to add a few bucks (say $40 to $60) as a flat rate of the shipping cost for each pet.

The Tank

So, this is where your actual expenses lie. An axolotl needs a larger tank than any other amphibian.

That’s because they spend their whole time underwater and the smallest tank you can accommodate for young axolotls is 10 gallons. 

For a mature axolotl tank, a standard 20 gallons aquarium would suffice.

However, it’s not just the tank that counts.

Since your smiling pets would be captive-bred animals, they would need ample lighting and filtration. Some pet stores offer various aquarium kits and ensembles that include LED lighting, filtration device and cartridges, heating devices, and other tank decors.

The overall tank setup would cost you somewhere between $100 to $300 approximately.

Recurring Costs

Lucky for you; axolotls are exclusively captive pets.

And on top of all that, they have exceptional regenerative abilities. It makes it easier to minus the health problems of axolotls and clinical attention.

However, I still recommend visiting the vet once a year to rule out any medical abnormalities in your pet.

Basically, the only recurring cost left is food.

Axolotls enjoy a protein-rich diet including brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms. Many novice keepers make the mistake to feed feeder fish and mice to their diet. I strongly discourage live or dead food as it may introduce bacterial and parasitic infections to the tank.

Hence, the annual recurring cost of grown-up axolotls that feed twice weekly is estimated to be around $50.

Medical Care

I have rarely seen an axolotl falling sick and dying of a fatal disease.

However, they are living beings and require regular medical upkeep. As a responsible axolotl owner, you should make a yearly visit to the vet to avoid deadly diseases or aliments.

Factors Affecting the Price of This Pet

No two axolotls are the same. And that applies to their cost as well. There are a number of factors that affect the axolotl price.

Morph Rarity

When it comes to axolotl price, it mostly depends on the rarity of color. There are some varieties that are extremely rare, and hence the fancy price tag. Meanwhile, the common and basic morphs are inexpensive and easily available in pet stores.

Age

Age is also an essential factor in determining the cost of an axolotl. Adult axolotls sell at a higher price than juveniles. That’s because mature axolotls are easy to care for and friendly.

Health Conditions

While visiting the pet store, you may encounter the same morph axolotls selling at a low cost than some others. That could be mainly because of their health conditions.

A healthy axolotl would retail at a much higher price than the ones in poor conditions.

I advise inspecting the axolotl before making your valuable purchase. An unhealthy axolotl will most likely be lethargic and unresponsive.

Breeder

The price also varies from breeder to breeder. Some breeders charge higher prices due to their reputation or brand name. Other breeders may charge nominal rates for a basic morph.

Requirements for the Tank

Like I said before, the prices for axolotls vary depending on their pigmentation and health. However, it’s the tank cost that makes the difference.

Along with a larger tank, axolotls require several other essentials to keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives.

I have prepared a thorough list for pet owners to guide through the proper requirements and estimated costs of an axolotl tank.

The Aquarium

Estimated cost: $25 – 100

Happy axolotls are the best.

And what keeps the axolotl happy is a long aquarium around 30 inches in length.

For your convenience, I would suggest a standard 20-gallon long tank for an adult axolotl that provides much room for movement. For the best price, you can consider buying a cheap one used or waiting for a local chain pet store’s dollar per gallon sale.

Also, axolotls prefer dim lights. And so, I encourage placing some type of hide in the aquarium for them to get shade.

Reptile Hide

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Filtration

Estimated Cost: Less than $100 – $150+

You can cut the cost of filtration only if you promise to change the water regularly. 

Yes, you can go cheap on filtration for axolotls if you are willing to do more water changes. However, I recommend installing canister filters in axolotl’s water tank.

You might wonder why.

Well, axolotls produce a lot of waste, which means a lot of ammonia. And they are extremely sensitive to poor water conditions. Therefore, installing a high quality filter would be the safest option.

Also, canister filters, although difficult to maintain, provide enough room for biomedia and gentle water flow to keep your pets healthy.

A good-quality canister filter usually costs less than $100 and lasts much longer than expected. Fluvals would be consider top-tier for a Axolotl tank, but you can do well with a budget canister like a Sun Sun.

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Substrates

Estimated Cost: $15 – $25

You have to be very finicky while choosing the substrate for axolotl.

Since axolotls have delicate skin, the hard or sharp substrate might cause potential injuries to your axolotl. The costs of substrate or aquarium sand should cost you no more than $10 or $15. 

Natural Fine Sand

I always recommend natural fine sand substrates for the axolotl aquariums. (with caution, of course)

If you choose natural sand substrates, make sure to avoid Calcium Carbonate sand as it might disrupt the pH levels of the tank.

Also, I recommend stirring the sand once in a while to help prevent the buildup of air gases and bacteria.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Rocks and Gravels

Always remember; the larger the rocks, the better!

Axolotls have delicate mouths, and they suck in their food.

If you use rocks that are too small, your axolotl will suffer from intestinal blockage and experience several health problems.

Also, rocks and gravels should be smooth-edged and rounded. For younger axolotls (under 6 inches/15 cm long), avoid using any rocks or substrate at all. 

Lighting

Estimated cost: less than $50

Fun fact: Axolotls do not have eyelids!

And so, strong lighting overwhelms them.

If you want to install lighting sources, always go for LED aquarium lights that are dimmable.

However, the best advice I can give you is to utilize natural lighting. Axolotls do not require lighting, nor does the tank. But, if you have live plants, you can always opt for Planted Tank LED lights that are adjustable.

This way, the tank also doesn’t heat up and water temperature is maintained throughout.

The lighting cost for an axolotl tank should cost you around $50 for a premium-quality, adjustable LED aquarium light.

Water Temperature & Chiller

Estimated Cost: $10 – $15

One thing that makes Axolotls challenging for beginners is their demand for optimal water temperatures.

The ideal water temperature for Axolotls ranges from 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, in some rare cases, they have adapted to water temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

According to experts, Axolotls show sluggish behavior below 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and higher temperatures might trigger serious diseases. Also, temperature fluctuations can be detrimental to your axolotl, as they are sensitive to them.

Therefore, in hotter climates, it is a challenge to maintain water temperature, an aquarium chiller should be installed to ensure water stays cool enough.

A fan costs around $10 and can work exceptionally well in keeping your tank water cool.

Aquarium Cooling Fan

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Even in cooler climates, a heater for an axolotl tank is not needed as the temperatures rarely fall below the their preferred ranges. If needed, the LED lighting or natural source of light would provide enough heat to the tank. Having a lid on the aquarium will also keep heat inside

Decoration

Estimated Cost: Around $50

Axolotls appreciate decorations as much as other aquarium pets.

However, you have to be extra careful with the decors you choose for your smiling pet.

I always suggest live plants for axolotl tank as they like sitting on them. Low light plants like Java fern, , Java Moss, Eludia, Marimo moss ball, and floating plants like Amazon Frogbits, and Water Lettuce are some excellent options for axolotl.

Nevertheless, axolotls do great without live plants. If you want to adorn your tank, feel free to add fake (plastic) plants as they require zero maintenance and lighting.

Additionally, to offer some safe places to hide, you can invest in high-quality hides for the axolotl, such as Cichlid rocks or Ceramic pipes, dragon stones, river rocks. Rock structures are also a great addition to an axolotl aquarium, which costs around $50 each.

You can add absolutely anything, just make sure the edges of objects are not sharp to avoid injuries.

Water De-chlorinator

Estimated cost: $10

Water de-chlorinator is something that your axolotl would thank you for!

Axolotls make a lot of mess in their natural habitat and things are no different in the home aquariums. Therefore, the tap water needs to be de-chlorinated every now and then to make it axolotl-friendly.

I always recommend installing water de-chlorinators in your axolotl tanks.

They are cheap and readily available in the market and cost around $10 or so. I recommend Seachem Prime.

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The Total Costs of Owning This Pet

Now that I’ve covered everything, let’s break all the expenses down for you.

The initial cost of an small axolotl is around $30 to $100, depending upon the breed and variation you opt for.

However, if you buy your axolotl online, it might cost you an additional $40 to $60 due to shipping and morphs (since online sellers tend to have better morphs).

For an adult, you need a large tank of around 20-gallons. This would cost you around $200 to $300 with all the required devices.

Lastly, the complete axolotl aquarium setup would cost you around $150 to $600 minus the food and water therapy.

Also, baby axolotl needs to eat more frequently than adults. But as they grow, they require less feeding and more maintenance. 

So, axolotls are amazing pets that are quite inexpensive as compared to other exotic pets. And the total cost you pay or spend on your smiling pals is worth every penny.

FAQS

The Chimera and Mosaic axolotls are only sold through specialized sellers. The Enigma axolotls are worth around $1500.

The piebald axolotl costs around $300. The Firefly and Lavender axolotl cost somewhere between $250 to $115 each.

Are they good pets?

Axolotls are interesting creatures.

They are hardy, always smiling, easy to look after, and easy to feed.

Just what an axolotl owner needs!

However, they might not be the best fit for novice keepers as there are a few things to consider;

1. Temperature for axolotls should be between 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything more or less than that may put your pet under stress
2. Since they have a sensitive mouth, the substrate or decors used should be of high quality and kept clean
3. They demand clean water filtration. Therefore, a high-quality filter is recommended

Final Thoughts

Now you know what it costs to own an axolotl.

Besides everything, make sure to keep the water clean, and water temperatures maintained for your walking fish to stay healthy and smiling. The price that starts from $30 may touch $600 or so after complete tank setup. So, I believe it’s not much to invest given the joy and how long these animals live.

Got any comments to share? Leave a comment below and let’s get a conversation going!

Axolotl tank mates are tricky for two reasons most guides gloss over. First, axolotls need cold water — ideally 60 to 68°F — which immediately eliminates virtually every tropical fish most hobbyists are familiar with. Second, those beautiful feathery external gills are irresistible to curious fish, and even mild nipping causes serious injury and chronic stress. I generally recommend keeping axolotls alone or with other axolotls of similar size; they do fine in a species-only setup and are interesting enough not to need company. But if you want tank mates, the options that actually work share two traits: they tolerate cold water and they have no interest in those gills. Here’s my honest rundown of what works and what causes problems.

Here’s what you need to know when considering tank mates for your Mexican walking fish.

Understanding Your Axolotl

An axolotl is a freshwater bottom-dwelling aquatic salamander that prefers to keep to itself. They do best when kept on their own in an aquarium with slow-moving water.

Despite being antisocial, axolotls are very peaceful creatures. They spend most of their time exploring the bottom of the tank at their own, slow pace. They are also nocturnal which means they will mostly come out at night when the aquarium lights are off.

Keep in mind that Axolotls are carnivores that like to hunt live food¹. This means that they may sneak up on resting fish and make a quick snack out of them. Generally, their slow-moving nature ensures the safety of other small fish.

Axolotls are cold water critters. Due to the temperature of the water being so low, it will be unsuitable for a large variety of other freshwater creatures.

What Makes a Good Mate for Your Fish?

If you’re considering upgrading your axolotl tank into a community aquarium, there are a few things to keep in mind. Axolotls usually thrive when kept in isolation. That said, you can try to keep them with other aquatic critters.

Not all fish are good tank mates for axolotls. Those that make the cut are generally peaceful fish that also keep to themselves. Another requirement is being adapted to cool water aquariums.

You might notice your axolotls having a go at their tank buddies, even if they can’t eat them. That’s why it’s important to choose critters that can’t fit into the axolotl’s mouth.

This brings us to the next point, the critters you keep need to be fast enough to escape. Axolotls will try to hunt any live fish and other critters in the same tank as them. If you’re having problems, rather keep your freshwater fish in separate aquariums.

Why Some Fish Aren’t Suitable

Some critters just aren’t suitable axolotl tank mates. Here’s why.

• Water temperature

Axolotls prefer cool water. That’s why you can’t add any tropical fish to their tanks. The water is simply too cold. You may need an aquarium chiller to keep the water cool in water climates.

• Temperament

Any aggressive or territorial fish is a bad idea. These creatures will harass your salamander and injure it in the process. Highly active swimmers also aren’t suitable. Their movements will stress your axolotl.

• Health risks

Some freshwater critters pose a health risk to your axolotls. Cory Catfish, for instance, have sharp spines on their pectoral and dorsal fins. These can injure your axolotl if it tries to eat them.

Small fish and mini snails can also be a choking hazard and can lead to impaction. Some critters also carry diseases.

• Direct competition

Other bottom-dwelling fish aren’t a good idea either. Bottom feeders are in direct competition for food. This means your axolotl might bully its tank buddies to get to the food.

If the other critters are very voracious eaters, they also won’t do. Axolotls eat slowly which means they won’t be able to compete for food with other bottom-dwelling fish.

How to Set Up A Community Aquarium

Setting up a community tank is quite simple. Here’s what you need to know:

Aquarium Setup

The minimum size for a one adult axolotl tank is 20 gallons. If you’re thinking of adding two adult axolotls to the same tank, this will be an added cost. You will need to jump to a 55-gallon tank for a pair of axolotls. Similarly, if you’re adding other fish or creatures, start with a minimum of 55 gallons. Bigger is always better, so if you have the space, go bigger.

Substrate

The best substrate for axolotl community tanks is sand since they like to dig. This gives the axolotl something to do instead of chasing the other community creatures around.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Water Parameters For The Aquarium

Axolotls have very specific needs when it comes to their tank water. Any tank mates you plan on adding should also have the same preferences. Take a look at the following axolotl water parameters to compare them to the requirements of the chosen tank mates.

• Water temperature: Cold water is a must, keep the temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature is between 60 and 64 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 18°C).
• pH: Axolotls prefer a pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for this species will be 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14dGH)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Filtration

It doesn’t matter if an axolotl is in its larval stage or already an adult, they all require a tank with good filtration and slow-moving water. Any tank mates chosen to join an axolotl aquarium should also be happy with this setup.

Axolotl owners usually prefer to use sponge filters in their aquariums. These filters can circulate a large amount of water in a short time without creating a lot of flow in the tank. This is absolutely essential for the messy axolotl.

Decor Considerations

Make sure there are enough hiding spots in your tank. Axolotls prefer to hide away from light. Other creatures in the aquarium will also need a place to relax where they don’t feel threatened by the axolotl. Add some driftwood, rocks, hides, or plants to your tank to create a range of hiding spots to choose from.

Lighting

Other fish may prefer tanks with lights. If this is the case, make sure the axolotl has a dark spot to hide in. It’s best to get tank mates that also prefer a dim interior for a happy community.

Before running to the pet store, make sure to do some research first. There are only a few fish that can be safely kept in the same tank as an axolotl. Even so, these communities are never without their risks. Here’s a list of some suitable tank mate options for your axolotl (And a video by yours truly for those who would rather watch).

Top 5 Axolotl Tank Mates

Let’s look at the best tankmates for these “walking fish.”

1. Other Types

Adult axolotls make great tank mates. It’s best to keep a male and female together, but you can also keep same-gender axolotls together if you don’t want any babies.

You can tell a male from a female axolotl by looking at the cloaca (opening under the tale). In males, the cloaca protrudes quite a bit while it sits nearly flat against the belly in females.

It’s best to not keep a smaller axolotl with a fully matured one. Don’t keep juvenile axolotls together either. They often display cannibalistic tendencies towards each other. Adults may even eat their larvae if given the chance.

If you see any reoccurring problems, it might be better to separate axolotls into different aquariums. One axolotl on its own is best.

2. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White cloud minnows are peaceful cool water fish that can make excellent tank mates for axolotls. Their lack of spines and shells makes them safe for axolotls to eat. Even though this might not be your goal, they will get chowed every now and again.

There is no real way to prevent your axolotls from hunting these fish, so you might want to consider keeping them in separate tanks. Fortunately, minnows are quite fast. They should be able to escape the axolotls unless caught off guard.

3. Guppy Fish

Guppies are another fish species that rarely pose a risk to your axolotls. Unlike the fast white cloud minnows, guppies will be eaten more often. They do sometimes carry diseases, however.

The babies of guppies are often used as feeder fishes. This means that owners intentionally provide these fish as a snack to their axolotls. Baby guppies are small enough to not pose a health risk when swallowed by juvenile axolotls.

Guppies, being livebearers, reproduce very fast. The sudden increase in fish numbers may stress your axolotl despite it having an easy snack.

4. Zebra Danios

Zebra Danios are also great peaceful cool-water fish to consider. They will keep to their shoals and mostly stay away from your axolotl. Again you might see your fish disappear every now and then. Fortunately, zebra danios are very agile fish so they might stand a chance in an axolotl aquarium.

Just because they can swim, however, doesn’t mean your axolotls won’t catch these danios off guard every once in a while.

5. Apple Snails (As adults)

Adult apple snails can safely be kept in the same aquarium as young axolotls. They aren’t small enough for your walking fish to eat. Baby cold water snails like juvenile bladder or ramshorn snails are also safe since they have soft shells.

Adult ramshorn and bladder snails are risky. They are small enough to swallow, but not soft enough to fully digest.

If you want to keep snails, avoid mini snails and stick to adult apple snails. Multi snails can also be risky as they can climb on your axolotl and suck off their slime coats.

Fish You Should AVOID

This list doesn’t include all the fish that are unsuitable for axolotl community tanks. The species here, are mentioned because they may seem to fit the description of the perfect tank mate, but they really aren’t. Keep an eye out for the following critters.

1. Goldfish

Many think goldfish are great tankmates for axolotls since they also like the cold. Unfortunately, that isn’t true of these freshwater fish. Goldfish have quite a bad reputation for being fin nippers. They also get big which makes harassing your beloved salamander easier.

Goldfish tend to nip at the fins and gills of the axolotl which causes stress and injury to your pet. They also produce a lot of waste which isn’t ideal when added to the mess axolotls already make.

The only goldfish varieties that may work in an Axolotl tank are fancy goldfish. These fish are just as slow as your Axolotl which gives it a chance to nip back. The goldfish will quickly learn to avoid the axolotl. They still pose a choking hazard when they are small, however, even more so due to how slow they are.

If you decide to use fancy goldfish with your axolotl, make sure to get a very large tank to accommodate the mess. If you don’t have the space, rather choose one of the suitable options mentioned above.

2. Cory Catfish

Cory catfish are very peaceful critters, but they aren’t good for axolotl tanks. These fish have sharp spines on their dorsal and pectoral fins that will injure your axolotl if it tries to swallow them. They are also bottom feeders which places them in direct competition with the bottom-dwelling axolotl.

3. Otocinclus Catfish

The otocinclus catfish is another fish that may seem completely harmless. Unfortunately, it also has spines like the cory catfish. The otocinclus also prefers fast-moving water and will zip around the aquarium at high speed. These are all characteristics that make it unsuitable as a tank mate for an Axolotl.

4. Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimps aren’t ideal for Axolotl aquariums, in fact, many owners use them as treats for their pets. Small shrimp may stand a chance if there’s sufficient plant cover to hide in. Most of the time, however, they will get gobbled up pretty fast.

Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are excellent addition to any freshwater aquarium. They help to clean up any leftover food. This in turn helps to keep the parameters in your aquarium stable.

Both Amano shrimp and ghost shrimp make perfect snacks for axolotls. You will need to be okay with them being eaten while they keep the tank clean. Axolotls have an excellent sense of smell so these shrimps may not even be safe in dense plant cover.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit about axolotls and the creatures they may get along with, you can make an informed decision on whether or not you should go forward with this plan. Keep in mind that the risks do outweigh the benefits of having buddies in the same aquarium as your axolotls. Isolation is even preferred by these underwater salamanders.

If you have any questions regarding axolotls and the critters that can live with them, leave a comment below.

Breeding axolotls is more achievable than most keepers realize — the bigger challenge is what happens after they spawn. A healthy pair can produce hundreds of eggs, and once those hatch you’re dealing with tiny, hungry larvae that will cannibalize each other if you’re not careful. Juveniles need to be separated by size regularly, and you’ll need a plan for rehoming the ones you can’t keep (keeping in mind axolotls are illegal to own in some states). The breeding trigger itself is straightforward: drop the water temperature for a few weeks to simulate winter, then gradually warm it back up. Here’s the complete process from setup through raising babies to size.

Why Are Axolotls Special?

These critters have an amazing ability to fully regenerate missing limbs. For this reason, axolotls are being monitored in many labs to satisfy the curiosity of scientists. Along with lost limbs, they can also regrow other body parts such as the eyes, and even regenerate their spinal cords. This makes them very interesting due to the potential use this ability holds has in human medicine.

How Do They Breed?

Axolotls are egg-layers. The male and female will participate in a mating ritual when ready to breed. To start the courting process, the adult Axolotl male will nudge the hindquarters of the female to see if she is receptive to his advances. The video by Jules Askalotl provides an visual overview of the breeding process.

Once he establishes her willingness to participate, he’ll place himself in front of her and start to lead her around the aquarium. He’ll always make sure that his tail is touching her nose. As he leads her forward, he’ll deposit a packet of sperm known as a spermatophore.

The male will then lead the female over this packet until it lines up with her cloaca (vent or sexual organ). She then absorbs the sperm into her reproductive tract to fertilize her eggs. This process is referred to as indirect fertilization.

Over the next hour, the male will continue leading the female over several packets of sperm until the breeding process is complete. Once done, remove the male to allow the female some peace before the egg-laying starts.

The female will only lay her eggs around 12 to 72 hours later. Your Axolotl may lay up to 1500 eggs on the decor provided, so be prepared. Once the process is complete, make sure to either remove the eggs or the adults. These animals aren’t against eating their own eggs.

It’s also best to remove the breeding pair from community setups with other fish. Some fish will get stressed out by the erratic movements of the adult Axolotl pair during breeding.

What to Do When the Eggs Hatch

Axolotl eggs usually incubate for around 15 days before hatching if kept at 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C). The hatching will be delayed for a few days more in cooler water.

For optimal larvae growth, make sure to keep the water in the upper-temperature limit. It is also essential to keep the water quality pristine. Axolotl larvae kept in poor water conditions have very poor survival and growth rates.

This means that once the eggs start hatching, you’ll have your hands full with tank maintenance. You will need to do partial water changes every few days to keep the water clean while your baby Axolotls are growing. This is especially important if you have lots of them in one setup.

If you kept all your eggs in one place, you will need to separate your babies into several 20 gallon tanks once they are big enough to be moved. Make sure to not keep more than 100 babies in one place. It is possible to keep up to 200 young axolotls in one aquarium, but this may lead to several unnecessary injuries and even fatalities.

Aquariums with fewer offspring in them have fewer problems such as damaged fins or lost limbs and gills.

Feeding Requirements

Newly hatched Axolotls won’t start feeding immediately after hatching. They usually only need live foods around 48-72 hours after hatching. In the period between hatching and their first feeding, they will be sustained by the remaining egg yolk in their bellies. The yolk will be visible through the skin as a cream-colored mass.

During this time the young also won’t be moving. Don’t throw them out by accident because they seemed dead. Not moving is completely normal at this stage. You’ll see them start to wiggle around 2 to 3 days after they were born, this is your cue to start feeding them.

Baby axolotls aren’t the easiest to feed. These youngsters require small, live food items in large quantities to keep them sustained. Until the Axolotl larvae grow their front legs, they will also only respond to moving live foods.

Without their legs moving around is a bit challenging for them. This means that they won’t actively try to find food. Make sure to deposit the food in front of them to make sure they are eating. If you fail to provide the right food, they may start to eat each other.

Fortunately, unlike frogs, young Axolotls grow their front legs first. Until they reach this milestone, however, feed easily accessible live food such as newly hatched brine shrimp and daphnia. Once their front legs are developed, they will also have developed a sense of smell. This means it’s time to start introducing dead food items.

You can offer dead food items earlier, but you’ll need to use tweezers and wiggle them around to mimic the movement of live foods to entice your baby Axolotls to eat. This can be time-consuming, especially if you need to feed 1500 baby Axolotls. Rather stick to newly hatched brine shrimp and other foods that can wiggle around like daphnia.

What to Feed

Until a baby Axolotl grows its front limbs, you will be limited to only a few live food items. Here are some great snacks for your young pet:

• Newly hatched brine shrimp
• Daphnia
• Microworms
• Freshly chopped up blackworms (they wiggle for a long time after chopping)

Live Daphnia

Water fleas or Daphnia are an excellent live food offering for fish and fry

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Once the baby Axolotl developed its front legs, it will become more mobile and start to actively hunt. At this point, you can start to introduce some dead food items along with fast-moving live food. Here are a few options:

• Frozen brine shrimp
• Frozen bloodworms
• Live mosquito larvae
• Live brine shrimp
• Live bloodworms
• Earthworms

Once the baby axolotl grows its hind legs, it can be fed exactly the same as an adult with the exception of the frequency in feeding. Baby axolotls need a lot of food to grow. To keep them healthy, you will need to feed them at least twice a day.

Once these little amphibians have all their legs, you can also start to introduce foods such as Axolotl pellets to their diet. Also, make sure to feed a variety of live and dead food for optimal health and growth. If you can’t find pellet food specifically for Axolotls, you can try feeding others specifically meant for carnivorous fish.

When feeding your baby Axolotls, make sure not to overfeed. If that happens, the uneaten food will start to rot and affect your water quality. Make sure to remove any uneaten food. Next time feed just enough to make sure they can eat all of it in 5 minutes tops. If it’s not eaten, remove it.

Tank Setup

Just like adult Axolotls, babies also need a proper setup to stay healthy. Here’s what you need to know to set up a tank for axolotl babies (Egg picture source).

Tank Size

The minimum tank size requirement for Axolotl larvae is also 20 gallons. Unlike an adult that requires the whole 20 gallons to itself, you can keep up to 200 newly hatched axolotls in the same tank which isn’t that much of a cost.

Keeping that many larvae together, however, is not advised. It’s better to stick to around 100 baby Axolotls together in a tank. This lower number helps to avoid unnecessary death and lost legs.

Once the larvae develop their front legs, you’ll need to divide the colonies into smaller ones yet again. This means that you’ll need several 20-gallon tanks or a super large aquarium. Keep in mind that bigger is always better. More water means fresh water for longer periods between water changes.

For the breeding tank, use a 20-gallon tank. This leaves just enough space to prevent the female from refusing to participate in the mating ritual.

You can keep the eggs in a 10-gallon tank altogether until they hatch. After that, make sure to divide the larvae into smaller communities or transfer them to a larger aquarium.

Water Parameters

Baby Axolotls are a bit more sensitive to water parameters than adults. For this reason, you need to be more vigilant when it comes to aquarium maintenance. Since you’re keeping several larvae in the same tank, you’ll also need to do more water changes to keep the water clean.

Skipping a water change can lead to water quality problems which in turn causes deaths. Also, make sure to treat any water before you put it into your tank. Tap water contains chemicals such as heavy metals and chlorine that will cause deaths.

Here are the water parameters for keeping your Axolotl larvae healthy:

• Water temperature: Keep the water temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for larvae is between 70-72°F (21-22°C).
• pH: Keep the pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for baby axolotl is 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

A baby Axolotl does well in the same temperature range as the adults. For optimal growth, however, you want to keep this baby in slightly warmer water. 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C) is a good start for hatching eggs and growing out newly hatched larvae.

As your baby axolotl grows, you can slowly lower the temperature to between 60 and 64°F (16 – 18°C). This will allow the baby to slowly adapt instead of getting a shock.

Make sure to put an accurate thermometer in your tank to monitor water temperature changes. If the aquarium water is too warm, your baby axolotl will become stressed. In most cases, you will require a water chiller if the water gets too hot too often or for prolonged periods of time.

In an emergency, you can add frozen cubes of Axolotl-safe water to your aquarium to help cool it down. In the rare event where it gets too cold, simply add an aquarium heater to get it up to the right temperature.

Substrate

The best substrate for Axolotl youngsters is sand. Sand provides some grip on the bottom of the aquarium as well as enrichment. Just like adult axolotls, the youngsters also like to dig through the substrate.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Sand is also safe if accidentally swallowed due to the very small size of the particles. Any kind of gravel should be avoided in larval tanks since it can cause injury and severe health problems.

Setting up a bare bottom aquarium is also possible. This will make cleaning much easier since you can simply suck up any solid waste during a water change.

Tank Decor

It’s always a good idea to have some decor in your tank. A completely empty tank will cause stress to your Axolotl larvae. Aquarium decorations you can consider include the following.

Plants

Plants are great in Axolotl tanks. They provide cover as well as enrichment. Keep in mind that the plants need to grow well in minimal lighting. Low light plants are the best candidates for an Axolotl tank.

Axolotls are nocturnal. For this reason, they have quite poor eyesight and prefer a dark environment. If the lighting in your tank is too strong, your axolotls will always be hiding from it.

It is also best to pick floating plants or those that prefer to grow on other ornaments like Anubias Nana or Java Fern. Axolotls dig a lot. This means that they will disturb and dig up any plants in the substrate.

Driftwood

Driftwood makes excellent places for an Axolotl to hide in and explore. It will also provide a surface for some kinds of plants to grow on. Driftwood also looks great when used on its own.

Hides

It’s very important to provide your Axolotl youngsters with places to hide. You can do this by adding ceramic pipes or other structures to your setup. This is even more important in tanks with lights. Axolotls have very sensitive eye lids and need to escape to a dark corner when the lights are on.

Rocks

Rocks are also an excellent addition to your breeding setup. A large flat rock is ideal for your Axolotls to breed on. Rocks can also be stacked and used to create shelters and hiding spots for the young. If done right, you don’t need anything else in your tank. Rocks make excellent decorations and can also be used to grow some kinds of plants.

Filtration Needs

Baby Axolotls need slow-moving water in their tank. For this reason, you can’t just put any filtration system in there. They also need a strong filtration system due to being such messy creatures, so it’s important that your filter can circulate a large amount of water in a short amount of time.

The best filters for baby Axolotls are sponge filters. These filters can circulate water quite quickly without creating a lot of flow.

Biofoam filters are quite popular for Axolotl setups. These sponge filters will help to clean the water while allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The bacteria in turn will help to keep your water parameters stable.

Baby Axolotls are quite sensitive to parameter changes so it’s best to make sure the tank is properly cycled before breeding with your adults.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about breeding Axolotls and caring for the young, you should have minimal problems doing it yourself. Just remember to set up a decent breeding tank with a proper filtration system and once the young hatch, don’t feed them immediately.

If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.

Discus are the fish I call the King of the aquarium — and for good reason. I’ve kept discus in dedicated setups and they’re unlike anything else in freshwater. The challenge is real: they demand pristine water, specific temperatures, and more patience than most fish require. But when you get the conditions right, there’s nothing more impressive in a planted tank.

The Discus Fish. To many who are fans of this fish, they are often called the Kings of the Aquarium. The are large, striking, and very beautiful freshwater fish. They are also to many considered a very difficult fish to keep. It is our dream fish and the one we wish we could have, but intimated by what others have said about proper Discus Fish Care.

Today’s blog post is all about Discus Fish Care. My goal here is to really break down Discus Fish care into critical key concepts. If these concepts are followed, you will have much better success than the average Aquarium Discus Fish keeper. I want to make you well informed and armed with the knowledge to become successful and happy with your Discus Aquarium.

A Quick Overview

History

Discus fish originate from the Amazon River. There original homes were around submerged tree roots and branches. This water was very clean and calm. The Discus Fish is a member of the cichlidae family. The cichlidae family is the largest group of freshwater fishes. However, Discus do not share the characteristics of many other Cichlids. Discus are very peaceful by nature while many Cichlids are aggressive and built for speed.

The first Discus was identified in the early 1800s by Johann Natterer¹. Natterer was instrumental in the identification of many animal species in the Amazon. His name is associated with several animals such as the Natterer’s bat.

The fish Discus to be imported happened around 1921. The shipping handling method for these fish at the time where not very good. Many died during the shipping process due to stress. It wasn’t until the mid 1930s that Discus started getting bred in captivity. These happened when the first Discus Fish were imported to the United States and Dwight Winter became the first person to successfully breed Discus in capacity.

As breeding techniques advanced and shipping improved, we started to see more varieties of Discus. Between the 1970s and 80s Discuss breeders started to create more colorful and vibrant varieties of Discus, like the Powder Blue Discus shown below.

Discus Fish Care – The Keys To Success Keeping Discus

Discus to many are considered very challenging to keep (video from our YouTube Channel). They are more difficult to keep then the average freshwater tropical fish, but not impossible. It is a matter of getting all the care elements dialed in so you have a stable tank. Discus Fish require a high investment. They need bigger tanks and higher quality equipment to provide the best environment for them. Let’s break down the keys to success for Discus Fish. They are:

• Housing
• Filtration
• Source Water
• Temperature
• Oxygen
• Decor
• Substrate (Or no substrate)
• Diet
• Tank Mates

Tank Size (Housing)

Adult Discus are large fish. They can grow up to 6 to 8 inches long, they also grow height wise as well due to their dish shape. Like most Cichlids, they are territorial to their own kind, so they need space to thrive and and a natural looking environment to curb their aggression.

The best tank to start a Discus Tank with would be a 75 gallon aquarium. Some people say a 55 gallon aquarium is okay, but I prefer the 75 gallon because it is both wider and taller. These are both factors we want to keep in mind when it comes to the taller disc shapes of these fish.

For a 75 gallon aquarium, we are looking to house 6 adult sized discus fish. Some people will start these tanks up with 10-12 younger discus and allow them to grow. Eventually, they will reduce their numbers to 6, with two being males. Reducing the male population reduces the aggressiveness. A 75 gallon aquarium is not an aquarium you can easily order online.

My suggestion would be to either purchase the aquarium from a petstore when they go on sale or attempt to purchase a cheap used tank from a hobbyist or classified ad. Marineland is a good brand to purchase a first time Discus Aquarium. They are well built and have black silicone instead of clear.

Tank Filtration

DIscus require very clean water. Their natural environment has clean water and the average home aquarium does not provide the quality water or filtration they need. Many hardcore discus keepers will sort this out with daily or every other day water changes. These water changes are very large – usually 50% or more. We can do the same thing here, but if you to build a foundation of proper equipment that can help keep your levels down you won’t be a slave to water changes.

Our first option is a Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear. The aquaclear always makes it into our fish tanks if one is looking for a hang on the back filter. It will do a great job for you and will work trouble free for years.

Our next option is a premium piece of equipment like a Canister Filter. Again, our focus on Discus tanks is very clean water. A Canister filter is ideal for this as we can stuff these with premium level biomedia like Biohome Ultimate Filter Media. This media is one of the best out there in the market and has the ability to reduce nitrates in the aquarium. We are going to pair this media inside the best canister filter on the market today, the OASE Biomaster Thermo. This canister filter comes with a heater bay to place your heater and with a ton of media space.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice

The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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This is a premium option, but let’s keep in mind that Discus are a premium level fish. These fish are not cheap and they demand proper equipment and maintenance. Let’s set ourselves up for success by getting high end equipment.

Source Water

Discus Fish need very clean water. I will say this over and over again in this blog post to drive in the point. It is one of the most critical factors to your success. Sometimes, the source water of your tap water is not going to be good enough for your Discus Fish.

It’s going to depend on your city’s water report. I would suggest you get a city water report and get the readings of levels in your tank to determine if an RODI Unit is going to be needed. The main thing we are going to need to look for are high nitrates. If you have high nitrates coming out of your tap water, you may need to consider an RODI Unit or RO Unit. RO water becomes a major purchase when it comes to breeding or raising Discus fry.

Budget Option

Aquatic Life RO Buddie

Budget Option

Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

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The RODI unit shown above is an example of a good unit that will get the job done. If you are going to use RO or RODI water, you will want to use a trace element supplement. Seachem’s Discus Trace is just the supplement to use. Distilled water can also work in a pinch, but given the tank size needed for these fish, it’s usually not a good long term choice.

For those of us using tap water, it is very important to age your tap water for 24 hours then treat it with a declorinator like Seachem Prime. You can further prep with a heater and airstone or submersible pump. The preference is aged tap water + prime if your source water is good enough.

I know not everyone’s tap water is going to be adequate. If you cannot obtain your city’s water report, I would suggest getting an RO unit. Nearly all units designed for aquariums will be an RODI unit. For Discus, you can remove the DI stage to save on the resin as long as your TDS output is within 50-100.

Temperature

Next to clean water, temperature is the second big factor to Discus Fish care success. Discuss thrive on temperatures from 85 to 86 degrees. That is a lot warmer than most tropical fish that likes 78 degrees. What will usually happen with Discus under lower temperatures is that they will not fare well under typical tropical fish temperatures.

We want higher temperatures for a Discus fish for multiple reasons. Warmer water keeps our Discus active. It increases their metabolism and tends to produce a more colorful fish. Many Discus are also keep at higher temperatures.

Imported Discus from Germany and Malaysia will often keep their temperatures higher. You will also want to see what temperatures the Discus you are looking to buy are kept at as you may need to accumulate. The main issue you will deal with higher temperatures is bacterial infections. If you have an outbreak, they are tougher to deal with at higher temperatures because the bacteria will produce faster. 

We want to use the Best Aquarium Heater we can get our hands on. For a Discus aquarium, the Eheim Jager heaters are the best heaters to go with. It would also be wise to get an aquarium heater controller like an Ink Bird to ensure you have temperatures that are accurate and fail proof.   

Tank Aeration

With higher temperatures and larger fish we will be dealing with oxygen issues in our aquarium. Also, Discus Fish prefer calm waters so we cannot use a Wave Maker for our setup. We are going to want to use a proper Aquarium Air Pump to provide a high amount of oxygen to our Discus tank.

Whisper AP Series

A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings

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Since we are dealing with larger tanks with Discus, a powerful air pump is in order. The Tetra Whisper AP series is the ideal aquarium air pump for Discus tanks. It is powerful and can handle the needs of these large fish while not making you lose your mind with their noise. 

Tank Decorations

From what we know about the history of Discus Fish, they lived near submerged tree roots and branches. The best decor for Discus is going to be Driftwood. However, we need to be very careful in our handling and selection of driftwood. We want a wood that will not alter the pH of our tank and we want something that is not going to rot away and leech nutrients all over the place.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

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Manzanita wood is probably the best wood to use for a Discus tank. It is clean and looks the part for their natural environment. Sandblasted Manzanita is what we want to look for. There are large showpieces you can purchase from the link above. These large sizes will show better in a large Discus tank.

Prepping the wood for the aquarium is a major process we must undergo for our Discus. Prepping driftwood for aquarium usage requires us to boil it for 10 to 15 minutes. This is to clean the rock of decaying, dead material and to remove tannins. Tannins being released from driftwood will dark the water of your aquarium giving it a tea-colored look.  Below is a video by Long Island Fish Guy showing the process.

The main challenge with boiling a large piece of driftwood is you cannot fit it in a pot. To work through this there are two approaches. One is to boil in parts that you can dip into a cooking pot. Another is to put the wood in a bathtub or outside and pour the boiling water on the wood. Be very careful if you have to do this as you can hurt yourself. 

Tank Substrate

Discus keepers fall into two camps. Those who want to do a bare bottom tank and those who want the look of a natural substrate. There are pros and cons to both.

For a bare bottom tank, we are working to create a very clean tank. The bare bottom approach is the preferred approach for breeders and those raising Discus fry. You can do a bare bottom tank for adult discus. For many, they will feel that the look of a bare bottom is odd. Painting the bottom of the aquarium white will help with the look. Other hobbyists have used aquarium safe tile to decorate their bottoms.

A discus tank with a natural substrate will provide a natural aesthic look. The problem you run into with a substrate is waste accumulation and dealing with potential nutrient issues. The best way to work with a substrate is to use it for aesthic purposes only.

We aren’t going to make an active substrate and we want a thin substrate similar to what I suggested with my prior Goldfish Tank post. We want no more than a half inch for our substrate. This will limit our ability for using rooted Aquarium Plants, but we will see later on that rooted plants are not the best for Discus Tanks.

The easiest substrate to maintain for a Discus tank is sand. We also have to consider the colors of our Discus. Discus fish are bright in color so a dark color would make them look darker. A lighter substrate will make our Discus look more bright. Light substrate is what we are going to want. 

Ideal For Goldfish

Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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A sandy grain size substrate like the one pictured above from Caribsea is what we are looking for. Again, we only want a half inch of substrate. This substrate is also pH neutral – something we will desire as most Discus for keeping purposes will need acidic water to neutral. This range of pH is 6.8 – 7.6 for most Discus varieties. If we are breeding discus, pH needs can be different. But, the best practice for breeding Discus is bare bottom.

Diet

Discus are big and colorful fish. They are demanding when it comes to diet as they need a varied and balance diet in order to keep their immune systems and colors healthy. Discus also require to be feed multiple times a day. They also have small mouths for their size and are slow eaters.

When it comes to food, the smaller is better. We want a mix of bloodworms, blackworms, and vibra bites. The delivery method is important as well. I have mentioned in past posts the amazing nutritional value of blackworms in the past. Blackworms would be my go to here. Freeze Dried Blackworms with a vitamin boost like Vita-Chem is a great mix.

My Pick

Vita Chem

One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

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For pellet food, Vibra bites is perfect for discus. It has the worm like shape that get your Discus going. 

Great For Discus

Hikari Vibra Bites

A color enhancing formula that has a worm shape. Excellent for discus fish.

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For feeding worm food like black worms a feeding cone can useful for keeping the food in place. Discus are slow eaters so this keeps the food in one place so your Discus can eat while keeping your tank clean. The video below by Canadian Aqua Farm shows a feeding cone in action.

Tank Mates

Finding tank mates for a Discus Fish tank can be quite the challenge. Because we are going to keep our Discus in hotter waters, this is going to hard on many tropical fish. Also Discus are slow feeders so an aggressive feeder is going to out compete and stress our Discus.

Aquarium fish like barbs are going to be bad tank mates due to how aggressive and active they are. Angelfish and Rams should also be avoided. We will also want to be careful about adding too many schooling fish like tetras who as a group can out compete our discus for food.

When we think about good tank mates, Cardinal Tetras and Corys come to mind. It is doable, but my recommendation is to make your Discus the centerpiece of your aquarium. Start with a dominant Discus Tank first then consider adding tank mates if you really want to. 

Live Plants for Them

A planted tank with Discuss is one of the most challenging setups you can attempt in the freshwater hobby. You are working against multiple factors when trying to add plants with Discus.

The first is the temperature. Because Discus do better in warm weathers, many plants will struggle to thrive at 85-86 degrees. The second factor working against is the lack of nutrients. Remember when I said that Discus Fish like clean water? Clean water means low nutrients. Low nutrients means that plants are going to have a hard time getting the food they need and we cannot use an active substrate.

Active substrate like the ADA Aquasoil I recommend in our Best Planted Tank Substrate post will cause higher nutrient levels in the tank. Great for rooted and carpeting plants, but bad for Discus. 

So what does this leave us with? We just eliminated a number of possible aquarium plants from the list. We are going to want live plants that can not only tolerate the higher temperatures of our Discus tank, but also will still grow in a low nutrient environment. We also want plants that can tolerate a non CO2 injected environment as we want to ensure we have a rich amount of oxygen available with our higher temperatures.

This leaves us with the hardiest of live plants, preferably ones that are column feeders versus root feeders. These will will do well without CO2 These plants are:

• Anubis
• Java Fern
• Shallow Rooted plants like
  • Bacopa Caroliniana
  • Micro Swords
  • Vallisneria

All of the plants above are considered Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do to if you want live plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System. I would recommend Current USA’s Serence Pro lights.

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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When planning a planted Discus Tank, we will need to keep in mind spacing. We will want our plants either attached to our driftwood or in the background of our aquarium. We want to keep the rest of the aquarium open for our Discus to swim and not feel crapped.

We want to avoid densely planted tanks. Lastly, our fish population decreases in a planted setup. For a 100 gallon fish tank, we would drop down to 5 to 6 Adult Discus. We do this because our substrate become an issue with waste with a planted tank. We want to keep our tanks very clean for Discus, so our best approach here is to reduce our aquarium fish population. 

Another thing to keep in mind is that Planted tanks are not good for raising fry or breeding. If you are looking to breed, the best practice are bare bottom tanks.

Different Types

There are tons of breeds of Discus. They are all long-lived, get large, and can be breed under the right conditions. We have two types of Discus in our hobby:

• Wild Discus
• Domestic Discus

Wild

The wild discus are the original Discus where our domestics come from. The Blue Green wild discus is where most of our Domestic Discus come from.

The Heckel Discus is one of the most sought after wild Discus. They are found in the Rio Negro. They are one of the most demanding Discus to keep in the aquarium due to their pH requirements. They prefer a pH closer to 4.0, which is a challenge for many aquarium keepers. 

All wild Discus are imported and difficult to keep in comparison to domestically bred Discus who are used to aquarium environments. Wild caught Discus are best kept to the experts and Discus enthusiast.

Domestic (Captive Bred)

There are more than 1000 types of Discus Fish available in the market, day by day count is increasing because of cross breeding and demand on market. And this video below shows the diversity of Discus fish. One thing to keep in mind is that Discus with a yellow coloring have difficulty maintaining their color.

I’ll go over the various discuss types in another post to keep this one short. Check out the visual below by Knock Out Aquatics to see how varied Discus get!

How To Select Them

Discus are very sensitive fish. They require careful selection when choosing a quality store to purchase from an a healthy specimen. Here are a few things to look for:

• Round shape – look for deformities
• Clear eyes – no nicks or cloudy eyes
• Good color – poor color indicates stress or poor diet
• Fins – Look for straight fins. Watch out for bent or clamped fins
• Body mass – Your Discus should look thick. Do not purchase a thin Discus
• Good appetite – Your Discus should actively eat when fed
• Swimming activity – The Discus should be swimming in the open not in a corner

How To Quarantine Them

While I believe you should quarantine all fish, I know most people will not. Discus fish are a premium fish and require quarantine into to thrive. The quarantine process generally takes 8 weeks and involves frequent water changes – as often as every day!

In the second week, Discus experts would recommend prophylatic treatment with Prazipro or Levamisole to treat for internal parasites. Internal parasites are very common with Discus and is a mild treatment².

You would stop treatment in the 6th weeks and do a 2 week observation period. You should not use antibiotics or external parasite treatments unless you see signs of disease. To learn more about diseases check out this fish disease article. Some commmon factors that cause health issues would be:

• Chemical poisoning – from poor water conditions
• Dissolved gases – from low oxygen or high CO2 levels
• Poor tank hygiene
• Nutritional deficiencies
• Gill flukes, parasites — which is why we quarantine!
• Bacterial infections

Your quarantine tank should be bare bottom with a cycled filter. It should be away from your display and you should use a separate net for it. Given the time involved of quarantine, do not plan on traveling or vacationing during this time. Know your schedule and plan ahead!

Breeding

This could be a separate post in itself, so I’ll keep it brief. There are two methods for breeding Discus fish – artificial and natural.

Artifical Breeding

This involved removing the eggs after they have been fertilized. Fry are hatched and fed slime when they are initially born. As they grow, they are transitioned to baby brine shrimp and commercial foods. This is a common method of breeding for commercial Discus breeders. PVC is used as a surface to lay eggs and collect them. It is efficient and more profitable from a business perspective

Natural Breeding

Natural Discuss breeding allows for the eggs to be tended by the parents. The fry hatch and are free to swim in the aquarium. The fry will eat their parent’s slime coat when they are born. They eventually will be transitioned to baby shrimp and commercial food.

This is considered one of the most fulfilling experiences in our hobby. The parents take takes tending to their babies. They fish fry receive antibodies from their parent’s slime coats. As a result, they can develop a stronger immune system.

Where To Buy

Discus fish are one of the more difficult fish to purchase. You will want to purchase them from a high quality local fish store if you are looking to buy locally. If you do not have a good local fish store, you can purchase high quality specimens at tradeshows.

A more recent development has been the emergence of What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) online fish stores. Most are small specialty fish stores. When looking at one, make sure they offer a arrive live guarantee and a warranty of at least 7 days.

Additional Resources (Books To Read)

There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There are two books I recommend when it comes to Discus care.

Discus World

Discus World

A great deep dive book on Discuss keeping for a beginner. Written by a discuss breeder

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The Discus World book is a good casual dive into the world of Discus keeping and breeding. it is informational enough to get you beyond what I have covered here, yet friendly enough for a beginner to pick up.

The Discus Book

The Discus Book

First published in 1989, this book is an update with a full color edition. Written by Alastair Agutter, who has been an authority on aquariums since 1967

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The Discus Book is the book to purchase if you want a comprehensive guide on Discus. This book is written by Alastair Agutter. Alastair has been involved in the aquarium hobby since 1967. He is a veteran in the industry. He offers a no sales approach to proper care. It’s a refreshing perspective to read as our aquarium hobby evolves into a gadget first approach. He’s all about the biological and science. It’s a must read if you want to get serious about Discus!

Closing Thoughts

Discus fish are the known as the king of the aquarium. They are beautiful but difficult to keep. If you are up to the challenge, they can be one of the most rewarding experiences in our hobby. I hope I showed you what Discus fish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

Are you considering an exotic fish breed to spice up your hobby? Getting a Flowerhorn Cichlid will definitely not disappoint. In this article, we will look at everything you need to know about Flowerhorn Cichlid Care.

Let’s dive right in and start learning all we can about this extraordinary aquatic critter.

Species Overview

Origins

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Flowerhorn Cichlids (video source) are manmade freshwater fish that were first bred by fish keepers in Thailand, Malaysia, and Taiwan. That means this aquatic animal does not naturally occur in the wild. The closest wild relatives to this hybrid fish, are African Cichlids.

They first appeared in the market in 1996 and have been rising in popularity since. These large Cichlids also have quite an impressive lifespan adding to their popularity.

Unfortunately, some Flowerhorns have been illegally released into the wild. They can now be found in a few wild habitats around the world where they’ve become an invasive species.

Flowerhorn fish is a result of selectively breeding different African Cichlid species. The idea of breeding these fish was based on the earliest manmade fish called the Blood Parrot.

Interbreeding Cichlids gives them the same unique head and body shape as the parent species. Fortunately, this process is fairly simple since Cichlids will spawn with just about any fish of the opposite sex as long as it’s another Cichlid species.

A few of the naturally occurring species that were used to create Flowerhorn strains are Red Devil (Amphilophus labiatus), Redheaded Cichlid (Paraneetroplus synspilus), Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus), Red Terror (Cichlasoma festae), and Trimac (Cichlasoma trimaculatum). Parrot fish also played a role, but nobody seems to know (or aren’t telling us) exactly to what degree any of these species were involved.

There were originally only five strains of Flowerhorns. These were referred to as Luohans. These strains include the golden-based group such as Faders and Golden Trimax as well as the Golden Monkey, Kamfa, and Zhen Zhu varieties. These are sometimes referred to as Cichlid fish breeds, but in reality, they are only hybrids and not full breeds.

Other strains have also since been developed. Some of the most popular Flowerhorns are currently Golden Monkey, Red Dragon Flowerhorn, and Thai Silk.

What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?

A Flowerhorn Cichlid is a large fish with a unique body shape and nuchal hump also called a Kok. The nuchal hump is the large protrusion on top of your fish’s head that gives them an easily recognizable silhouette. The size can vary from massive nuchal humps on males to nonexistent on females. The size can also change depending on the situation the fish finds itself in.

Both the dorsal and anal fins start about two-thirds of the way back on the body and stretch all the way to the base of the tail. The dorsal fin matches the bulk of the anal fin and ends in a fleshy, braid-like protrusion. The dorsal and anal fins also dwarf the caudal fin.

The tail fin, on the other hand, is usually round and much thinner than the other fins but the shape may vary. The pectoral fins are quite short and often almost see-through.

Flowerhorns also have quite a lumpy ‘chin’ area that extends right to the ventral fins. This feature is much more prominent in males.

Male Flowerhorns also have more brightly colored, pearlized scales. The female Flowerhorn will usually be an inch or two smaller than the male.

The unusual patterns of Flowerhorns evolve and change as the juvenile fish grow into adulthood. Once this critter reaches mature size, the patterns are usually set. This means that you may not know what you’re getting if you choose a juvenile fish. Most will end up with horizontal black stripes, however.

The eyes of these aquatic pets are usually quite prominent. The King Kamfa variety tends to have white or yellow eyes.

Feeding a Flowerhorn Cichlid is fairly easy as long as you get the balance right. Due to these fish being so large, they have quite a big apatite. These freshwater fish will quite happily feed on just about anything that ends up in the tank.

If you’re unsure which meaty treats your fish can eat, consider adding the following foods:

• Brine shrimp
• Shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Mosquito larvae
• Earthworms
• Other aquatic worms
• Fish fillet
• Dried crickets
• Dried grasshoppers
• Krill

Keep in mind that what you feed will depend on the size of your fish. Small treats like brine shrimps are for small fish. Bigger fish can have bigger snacks like earthworms.

For greens, you can consider adding the following vegetables:

• Boiled peas (No shells)
• Zucchini
• Shredded lettuce
• Cucumber

Give Them Live Foods

To keep your fish in tip-top shape, it is best to feed both live and frozen foods. Live foods, like mosquito larvae, will provide your fish with some entertainment. Hunting these creatures will also appeal to the foraging instincts of your Flowerhorn Cichlid.

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

It is best to feed your Flowerhorn Cichlid just enough to finish the food within five minutes after feeding. If you notice any food left at the end of five minutes, consider reducing the amount fed.

Any food that is allowed to settle to the bottom of the tank will usually just stay there to rot. This reduces your water quality and will lead to ammonia spikes if you’re not careful.

On the other hand, if your fish isn’t fed enough, it will start to dig up plants, chew on the leaves and break the stems. To reduce this destructive behavior, make sure to feed your fish regularly.

Adult fish need to be fed around two to three times a day. Young fish need five to 10 feedings to help them grow. If your fish aren’t interested in every feeding, reduce the number of feeding per day.

Their Temperament and Behavior

Flowerhorn Cichlids have a reputation for being quite aggressive. For this reason, they don’t do so well in community tanks with other fish. If you keep these fish with other species, you can expect fights to break out quite often. Even when kept in tanks with others of their kind, their aggressive nature will often lead to fighting.

Funny enough, Flowerhorns do prefer to swim in pairs. Keeping a male and female together in the tank will often reduce aggression and lower the stress levels in the aquarium.

It is possible to add in a few tank mates for your Flowerhorns if you do some careful planning. It’s usually an idea to keep them with peaceful fish of a similar size.

These Cichlids also won’t just stay in one layer of the tank. You can expect to see your fish moving up and down the water column as they, please. They will also claim territories in the aquarium which can lead to fighting. This is why it is very important to have enough space if you’re planning on having more than one Flowerhorn Cichlid in the tank.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, you’ll also need to do some planning. These fish aren’t the best when it comes to living plants. They will often dig up the plants and even eat them. To avoid this, make sure to feed your fish correctly and plant unpalatable specimens that don’t require the substrate to thrive in your tank.

Tank Mates

Flowerhorn Cichlid tank mates aren’t easy to find. Generally, these fish don’t do so well in a tank set up with other aquarium fish. Their aggressive nature and territorial tendencies tend to get in the way.

Fortunately, there are a few suitable tank mates out there. It will also help to select a large tank to reduce possible aggressive behavior. Before you select tank mates, keep the following guidelines in mind:

• Avoid other species of aggressive fish. Choosing fish with peaceful dispositions is best.
• Avoid slow-moving fish. Any species that gets selected must be able to escape any conflict.
• Avoid shrimp and snails, they will definitely only serve as a great snack for your fish.
• Avoid fish that are significantly smaller than your Flowerhorns. They will usually end up as snacks and targets for aggression rather than Flowerhorn tank mates.
• Any tank mate you select must be big enough to hold its own and be fast enough to swim away when the need arises.

If you’re still considering getting some friends for your fish, keep the lists below in mind.

Best Tank Mates for Them

It can get quite frustrating to select some fishy friends for your giant terrors. To make it a bit easier, consider the following species:

• Another Flowerhorn Cichlid (Best choice)
• Sailfin Plecos
• Leopard Plecos
• Bichir (Go big to avoid problems)
• Silver Arowana
• Bristlenose Plecos
• Jaguar Cichlids
• Common Plecos
• Clown Plecos
• Giant Gourami
• Lowland Cichlids
• Spotted Hope
• Armored Catfish
• Oscar Cichlids

Least Compatible Fish for Them

• Any aggressive fish species besides other Cichlids
• Very small fish like Rasboras
• Shrimps of any kind
• Snails of any kind
• Danios
• Tetras
• Livebearers
• Betta fish
• Loaches
• Red-Tailed Sharks
• Rainbow Sharks
• Iridescent Sharks
• Goldfish
• Koi
• Bala Sharks
• Angelfish

Care

Despite being a manmade fish, the Flowerhorn Cichlid is quite hardy and fairly easy to care for. If keeping fish is new to you, you shouldn’t have any problems, but having some experience is better. New fish keepers are often put off by the required tank size as well.

Flowerhorns are big fish. They are also quite aggressive and messy. This can complicate things when it comes to keeping other fish with your Flowerhorn. You’ll also need to do regular maintenance to keep the tank clean and the water conditions perfect.

Tank Requirements

Flowerhorns need quite big aquariums to satisfy their territorial needs. You will also need some decorations in your tank setup to keep them out of trouble.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to know exactly what these fish prefer in terms of habitat since they were bred in captivity. In other fish species, you may set up the aquarium with plants or lots of rocks to mimic the natural habitat of that specific freshwater fish. In this case, your guess is as good as mine when it comes to tank decorations.

Despite not having a natural habitat, you can still create a stunning home for your pet. Here’s what you need to know.

Tank Size

To keep your fish healthy and stress-free, you will need at least a 75-gallon tank. These are very messy fish so if you can go bigger, go for it. Bigger tanks will prevent sudden changes in water parameters due to rotting fish waste and uneaten food.

If you’re thinking of keeping a breeding pair in the same tank, make sure to allocate at least 150 gallons to these fish. The bigger the tank, the less likely it will be for them to show aggression due to territorial battles. If you want a tank with different Cichlid species or other fish in it, make sure to give them a tank with a minimum volume of 215 gallons to prevent aggression.

Tank Setup

Setting up a Flowerhorn tank is really quite simple. After you’ve selected the tank you want, you will need to add a few things to create a suitable environment for your fish. Here are a few decor ideas to think about.

Plants

A Flowerhorn Cichlid does well in a tank with some added plants. Unfortunately, they do tend to dig up plants from the substrate. It’s best to keep them in tanks with plants that prefer to grow on other objects like driftwood and rocks with their roots exposed.

If possible, also select plants that aren’t the most palatable. Flowerhorns are omnivores and will nibble on your plants from time to time. A few live plants you can consider are Anubias Nana and Java Fern. Be prepared for some casualties, however, since these big fish will damage some of your plants.

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Substrate

By now you probably noticed that Flowerhorns love to dig around in the substrate. For this reason, it is very important to choose something safe to put at the bottom of your tank.

The best substrate will be sand or large tiles without any sharp edges. Sand allows the fish to dig to its heart’s content without the risk of injury. Avoid coarse gravel. The substrate is often ingested during digging which may lead to impaction if the grains are too large.

Some aquarium enthusiasts prefer to have a bare bottom tank. Bare tanks are very easy to clean and also completely remove the likelihood of impaction due to substrate ingestion.

Decor

To create a bit more structure in the tank, you can add large heavy rocks or driftwood to your tank. Just make sure that the items you add are large and heavy enough to not be knocked over by your fish. If you can, secure any decorations to the bottom of the tank.

Water Quality and Filtration

Flowerhorns prefer clean water in their tanks. They are quite sensitive to pollutants which means regular water changes are necessary to keep them healthy. It is also best to have a moderate flow in the tank to circulate oxygen and remove toxins.

Filtration

Flowerhorns are very messy. For this reason, they need a strong filtration system to help maintain the correct water parameters. Your filter should produce a moderate flow to circulate water around the aquarium.

A canister filter is an excellent choice when it comes to these Cichlids. It will create the correct flow while removing any solids from the water. It will also help to remove toxins by allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The Fluval FX Series is designed for large fish like Flowerhorns.

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Water Parameters

Despite being quite hardy fish, you will still need to keep an eye on the water conditions to keep them healthy. Here’s a quick breakdown of the parameters for Flowerhorn Cichlids:

• Water Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°c)
• pH: 6.5-7.8
• GH: 161-358ppm (9-20 dGH)
• kH: 54-107ppm (3-6 dKH)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <20 ppm

Aquarium Maintenance

Since Flowerhorns are such slobs, it is very important to do regular aquarium maintenance. You should do weekly water changes and replace at least 20% of the aquarium water. On top of that, you can do monthly water changes of up to 70% of the total volume of water.

Doing these water changes will remove solid waste and excess nitrates in the water. Nitrates may not be dangerous in small quantities, but they will become toxic in large amounts.

Testing Tank Conditions

To keep your fish health excellent, make sure to do weekly water tests. To achieve this you will need a water test kit. The ideal kit will test all the water parameters except for the temperature in your tank. For that, you will need a thermometer.

Breeding

Breeding these fish is very difficult. Fertile specimens are extremely rare in this hybrid breed. A fish keeper also needs to wait for around 8-10 months or even longer before they can test breed their male and up to 2 years for a female. For this reason, it can become very frustrating trying to breed these Cichlids.

If you still insist on breeding them, you’ll need a breeding tank and some knowledge.

Sexing

Male and female Flowerhorns are quite easy to tell apart. Males tend to be around one to two inches bigger than females. They are also more brightly colored.

You can also expect a V-shaped vent on the male where the female has a U-shaped vent. The most prominent difference is the nuchal hump. Males tend to have massive nuchal humps while a female has no hump or just a very small protrusion.

It can be difficult to sex juveniles so make sure to buy from an experienced breeder to be sure.

Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

You don’t need to do anything special to prepare your fish for breeding. Simply place them in a breeding tank with a similar size to their normal tank. If the male is too aggressive, use a divider that allows water flow between the male and female. This should encourage breeding as soon as the divider is removed.

Your breeding tank will function as both a spawning tank as well as a fry tank.

The Breeding Process

During the breeding process (video source), the female Flowerhorn will lay around 900 eggs on a smooth surface somewhere in the tank. The male will then swim over and fertilize the eggs.

Once fertilization has taken place you can remove the female. The male Flowerhorn will care for the eggs until they hatch. Once the fry hatched, you can also remove the male.

Caring For Fry

Caring for the fry is quite simple. It is best to feed the fry with live food like brine shrimps to help them grow. You will need to do this 5 to 10 times per day to keep up with their ferocious appetite and nutrient needs.

Once they turn 6 months old, you should be able to sex your offspring and separate them into different grow-out tanks.

Health And Disease

You’ll be happy to know that Flowerhorns aren’t susceptible to any particular disease. Unfortunately, there are still a few things you should be aware of. Let’s take a look at your Cichlid’s health.

Evaluating Their Health

It’s very important to keep an eye on these amazing creatures. Fortunately, it’s quite obvious when your pet isn’t feeling so well. Look out for the following red flags:

• Reduced apatite
• Obvious sores on the body
• Reduced activity level
• Change in normal behavior

Common Health Issues

These Cichlids are amazingly healthy pets. This doesn’t mean they are completely immune against diseases, however. Here are a few health issues you should be aware of:

• Mechanical health issues

Due to these fish being so aggressive, you can expect a few injuries every now and then. These shouldn’t be a huge problem unless they affect the fish’s ability to swim. Injuries can also happen during the exploration of the tank and while digging through the substrate.

Avoid these issues by checking the tank for any sharp objects and providing a large enough aquarium to avoid conflict.

• Ich

Ich shows up as white spots on the body and gills of your aquatic pet. Make sure to treat this disease immediately to prevent serious complications. To understand ich better, take a look at this article.

• Hole-in-the-head disease

This disease looks like holes in the nuchal hump of your fish. Fortunately, it is curable, but some scarring will remain. Treat this problem by doing daily water changes and removing any activated carbon in your tank until the water conditions improve.

Where to Buy

Flowerhorn Cichlids are quite popular. They can be found in almost any aquarium shop around the world. Unfortunately, these hybrid species are not cheap to obtain. The average price they go for is around $35 for just one fish. To get the best of the best, you will need to venture to an online fish store, connect with breeders locally, or at tradeshows.

FAQS

Closing Thoughts

Flowerhorn fish is very popular in the aquarium trade. They are fairly easy to keep as long as you do regular tank maintenance to keep the water quality pristine. It is also important to monitor the water temperature to keep them healthy.

If you have any questions, please comment below.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

The rainbow shark is one of those fish that looks fantastic in the store and can create real headaches if you don’t plan the tank properly. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen the same pattern play out many times: someone buys a 2-inch rainbow shark because it looks striking, puts it in a community tank, and then discovers it has claimed the entire bottom level as its territory and is chasing anything that enters that space. Rainbow sharks are territorial bottom fish — one per tank, plenty of cover and hiding spots, and they do best with tankmates that swim higher in the water column. Get that right, and they’re one of the most visually impressive freshwater fish you can keep. This guide covers everything you need for successful rainbow shark care.

Let’s get started!

Brief Overview of Rainbow Sharks

Origin and Natural Habitat

Rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum) is nothing like true sharks; they are freshwater fish, live peacefully with their kin, and feed on algae and plankton. However, they were named after the mighty sharks because of the upright dorsal fin that strikes a close resemblance to sharks while swimming.

The rainbow sharks originated from Southeast Asia, particularly Thailand, and are now commonly found in the freshwater basins of Mekong, Chao, Phraya, Xe Bangfai, and Maeklong.

Unfortunately, the habitat destruction in the wild resulted in the decreased population of rainbow sharks. However, in nature, they are bottom dwellers and mostly live in sandy substrates.

Even though rainbow fish is a peaceful breed, it gets territorial and might give a tough time to their smaller tank mates. Therefore, it’s a good idea to keep a few fish in the aquarium, that is closer to their own size. Also, rainbow sharks are a little high-maintenance and might pose a challenge to novice fish keepers.

So, choose wisely!

What Do They Look Like?

As I mentioned before, Rainbow sharks are commonly known as red-finned sharks, which earned their name because of the dorsal fin.

And if you see them swimming, you might mistake them for baby ocean sharks for once!

However, rainbow sharks are small and have elongated and slender backs with flat stomachs. Their fins, as the name suggests, are bright red with somewhat orangish hues. The bright red-orangish fins pop out against their dull grey bodies.

The dorsal fins of rainbow sharks comprise 11 branched rays with a prolonged fin tail. Like ocean sharks, the rainbow shark’s face is flat, but the snout is somewhat rounded along with an elongated body that tapers off at the tail.

What’s the difference between the males and females?

Before stating the differences here, I’d like to emphasize that male rainbow sharks are very dominant and aggressive toward their gender. Therefore, I always recommend keeping rainbow sharks carefully; one male in a tank is enough!

Coming back to the variations, there’s not much to name their gender, especially for juvenile rainbow sharks. To clearly reveal the gender, it’s always best to wait until the sharks grow completely and reach adulthood.

An adult rainbow shark has a thin body with bright red-colored fins and black lines on its tailfins. Comparatively, female rainbow sharks possess faded coloration with more pronounced bellies and the black, grey lines on the tailfins are absent in females.

The lifespan of rainbow sharks depends on:

1. Overall tank and water environment
2. Diet rich in vegetable and protein matter
3. Perfect sandy substrate for bottom-dwelling

Temperament and Activity Level

One thing that I genuinely love about the Rainbow shark breed is its agile and lively nature (video source).

Also, since they are bottom dwellers, they enjoy their time in the water grazing for food.

Therefore, many aquarists discourage tanks or aquariums for the rainbow shark as the confined space might trigger their aggressive side. As a result, they might attack smaller sharks and ultimately kill them.

Nonetheless, if you want to keep a group in home aquariums, make sure to install a large tank.

Mature ones are territorial

Juvenile rainbow sharks are social and get along with other fish pretty well.

But as soon as they reach adulthood, they become standoffish and solitary, asserting dominance in the presence of other fish.

To cater to this, I advise making tunnels, caves, and crevices for hiding. Also, it’s advisable to plant dense and healthy vegetation for the well-being of other fish and thriving a healthy community that involves fewer accidents.

What are Good Tank Mates for Them?

Well, if you ask me, I’d say, no mates are always better!

You might argue that they get along with true loaches and plecos really well.

Yes, I agree!

But in the wild only. In captivity, the rainbow sharks are quite aggressive and territorial. And like I mentioned before, they are bottom-dwellers; they don’t enjoy the company of other scavengers.

And this brings me to the conclusion that bottom dwelling tank mates should always be avoided for Rainbow sharks.

However, if you’re still adamant, I advise you to introduce your red-fin shark to a pre-occupied tank with only a few fish to reduce the likeliness of harassment.

Red-fin sharks are compatible with upper and middle tank dwellers, including.

• Danios
• Rasboras
• Gouramis
• Barbs
• Rainbowfish
• Clown Loach
• Indian Loach
• Snails

Also, while introducing rainbow sharks to their tank mates, be wary of their size and personality so that they could defend themselves.

Least Compatible Tank Mates

The worst tank mates for Rainbow sharks are shy and small fish, which are easily dominated.

Also, avoid bottom dwellers, very large, and aggressive tank mates including.

1. Red-tailed shark
2. Bala sharks
3. Loaches
4. Catfish
5. Red Devil Cichlids
6. Green Terror Cichlids

What do they eat?

The fact that rainbow sharks are omnivorous makes them voracious eaters. Also, they are not finicky and enjoy plants and prey.

The feeding habits in their native habitat rely on decaying plants, plankton, algae, insects, larvae, worms, and much more.

However, in captivity, since we target good coloration and a healthy lifespan, it’s best to include high-quality vegetable and protein matter.

For exquisite coloration and luster, I recommend feeding plants to the fish, such as lettuce, cucumber, cabbage, etc.

Also, they are bottom-dwellers, so make sure you get sinking pellets so they don’t miss out on some good nutritional diet.

Juveniles should munch on a protein-rich diet (brine shrimp, worms, and live food) to remain healthy and become brighter and stronger as they age.

However, since rainbow sharks are scavengers, they sometimes might overeat, which results in some illnesses. Therefore, it’s best to start feeding once a day to understand their pattern and adjust the diet accordingly.

Normally 2 feeding sessions a day comprising 5 minutes of feeding works the best for rainbow sharks.

Below is the list of recommended food you should incorporate into the diet of your rainbow shark.

• Insect larvae
• Algae (tablets/wafers)
• Bloodworms
• Tubifex Worms
• Brine Shrimp
• Daphnia
• Artemia
• Pellets
• Flakes
• Vegetables (peas, cucumber, zucchini, lettuce, and spinach)

Albino

The most common and popular variation of Rainbow sharks is the Albino variant.

The Albino rainbow shark possesses white abdomens with bright red eyes and fins that make them stand out in the tank. Though the variety is extremely rare, it is fondly loved by aquarists.

Albinos are very active, bottom-dwellers that feed on biofilm, plankton, and other organisms in the freshwater. Juvenile Albinos are sociable and amicable. However, as they age, they become more distant and aloof. Hence, they don’t get along with fish of their own kind including Flying Foxes, and Siamese bottom feeders. 

If you’re planning on keeping your Albinos in a small tank, think again!

Albino rainbow shark is known to be a very active jumper, so it demands large tanks with ample water flow and decent filtration. I also recommend installing protective aquarium lids, just so you don’t have to deal with accidents.

As long as the diet of Albinos is considered, get your fresh veggies ready, as Zucchini, Cucumber, and other high-quality vegetable and protein matter (brine shrimps, frozen bloodworms) are ideal for Albino Rainbow Sharks.

 Personally, I would recommend Albino Rainbow shark to experienced fish keepers because:

1. High-maintenance
2. Slightly aggressive

Breeding

Let me be very honest here.

If you’re raising rainbow sharks for the purpose of breeding, it’s time to move on!

That’s because the chances of breeding rainbow sharks, especially in captivity, are close to none.

Firstly, in their juvenile years, it’s impossible to distinguish between males and females. Secondly, rainbow sharks are so dominant and aggressive that they barely allow other fish to share the tank.

Therefore, there are few successful results of breeding rainbow sharks in aquariums (video source).

In nature, it’s a different story.

Rainbow sharks or Ruby sharks, like mentioned earlier, reach their sexual maturity as soon as they are 4 inches. The females lay eggs and males fertilize them later.

The ideal breeding months of Rainbow sharks are October and November. Thereafter the male fertilizes the eggs and the eggs are then transferred to a separate tank until the fry appears after a week.

The fry depends on high-quality protein so that they develop vibrant red fins and a healthy luster.

Care

Luckily, you don’t need to care much about the rainbow shark as it enjoys its own company and eats whatever is accessible to them.

However, if you are someone who believes in the healthy nurturing of their pet fish, the tank size, balanced, and water quality of the aquarium should be your top priority.

Tank Size

While keeping the rainbow shark, know that we don’t start small here.

That being said, 50 gallons tank size is the bare minimum, that too for one rainbow shark.

If you’re planning on keeping multiple rainbow sharks, be sure to provide substantial tank space.

Also, the length of your tank should at least be four feet long and 18 inches wide, considering a single fish.

Since rainbow shark is an active jumper and avid swimmer, it’s best to keep the tank big and wide so that your adorable red-finned pets can get the most of their lives.

Water Parameters

An interesting factor that keeps most aquarists from raising rainbow sharks is their fondness for their natural environment.

It’s almost impossible to recreate the natural conditions for rainbow sharks to reduce their aggression and dominance.

However, all we can do is try!

Rainbow sharks originally come from Southeast Asia’s freshwater basins where the water temperature ranges between 72°F to 82°F.

Therefore, the optimal water temperature for the rainbow shark falls somewhere between 77°F.

So, I suggest maintaining the water temperatures of your tank between 72°F to 82°F with the help of a premium heater that sets the temperature effectively.

Also, in the wild, these sharks enjoy river water that flows at a higher speed.

Therefore, maintain the water movement of the tank between moderate or fast to mimic their natural habitat.

Water pH and Hardness

Water pH and hardness are essential to maintain for keeping rainbow sharks calm and stress-free.

The ideal pH level ranges between 6 to 8 pH while the water hardness should be no less or more than 5 to 11 dH.

Substrate and Water Flow

Being a freshwater fish, the rainbow shark loves sandy bases. Also, many aquarists believe that’s a plus point because the sand is easy to clean and seldom collects food and other fish food waste that may be harmful to your fish.

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Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Besides sand, you may opt for round gravels that are not too edgy or sharp to avoid potential injuries.

Additionally, as I mentioned before, the water flow should also be maintained to entertain your rainbow shark. I recommend installing small jets and air-stones to control the constant water pressure and flow.

If your tank houses more than one rainbow shark and is over 125 gallons, you can make use of controllable wavemakers, including EcoTech, IceCap, and several others.

Aquascape Decors

If you want to keep Rainbow sharks as your pet, I cannot stop stressing enough about recreating their natural habitat as they get quite upset in plain captivity.

The river basins in Thailand are filled with hiding places and natural vegetation. Therefore, you should consider freshening up the aquarium experience.

The sandy substrates help their scales from damaging when they are scavenging at the bottom and the hiding places give them plenty of space to spend their time in solitude.

I recommend setting up a tank with driftwood, boulders and pebbles, caves, and rock formation with lots of other decorations to keep your red-finned shark busy and happy.

Aquatic plants with hard foilage are also an excellent option to change their game. Since they are omnivorous, they like to munch on plants and green algae. Therefore, aquarists suggest keeping hard-leaved plants in the aquariums.

Also, the plants and decorations reduce the chances of conflicts between the different fishes. Nevertheless, if your tank houses just one rainbow shark, the decors and plantations are pretty straightforward.

Furthermore, it helps them to have a peaceful corner for themselves to feel safe and secure. When they feel unharmed, they are pleasant and lively.

The best plants for rainbow sharks are.

1. Java Fern
2. Anubias
3. Hornwort
4. Lemon Bacopa
5. Vallisneria
6. Amazon sword

Lighting

If you ask me, I’d say lighting isn’t a requirement for rainbow sharks. However, it’s always best to follow a natural day and night cycle to offer them their natural lifestyle.

Also, stronger illumination help algae to develop in your tank, which allows easier grazing for your rainbow minnow.

However, sometimes the bright lightings might get a little overwhelming for your sharks. Therefore, I recommend installing LED lights that are more economical and programmable.

Proper Filtration

The rainbow shark demands exceptional water quality, tank size, and proper sanitization and filtration.

Rainbow sharks cannot stand low oxygen levels and toxins such as nitrates, nitrite, and Ammonia. So, a filter would be essential for raising a healthy rainbow shark.

For filters, I recommend investing in a canister filter better than the HOB.

That’s because the ideal range of rainbow shark filters should be 360GPH and above, and the canister filter will provide just that.

If you have small sharks in your aquarium tank, fret not!

Canister filters can be easily adjusted and provide the perfect volume for your tank.

Diseases

In terms of diseases and other illnesses, rainbow sharks are pretty hardy. But like any other freshwater fish species, they sometimes catch illnesses that are common and can easily be treated.

Some of the diseases are discussed as under.

Swim Bladder Disease

If you notice your rainbow fish swimming queerly, you might mistake it with the fun behavior.

However, it’s much more than that!

The swim bladder disease is a serious medical condition when a fish cannot swim properly and have difficulty controlling their ability to swim or float.

Symptoms

• Standing on the head
• Swimming upside down
• Distended belly
• Loss of appetite
• Curved back
• Floating on the sides

Causes

The major cause of swim bladder disease is the compression or squeezing of the swim bladder by overeating, gulping air, or constipation.

Some other causes also include.

1. Bacterial infection
2. Cysts
3. Egg bound, in females
4. Parasites
5. Fatty liver tissues

Constipation

If you have spent much time looking after aquarium fish, you might have noticed stingy feces, usually hanging from the fish.

That’s the major symptom of constipation.

When that occurs, wait for a few days and it should be gone on its own. But in severe cases, feeding a balanced diet that includes peas, brine shrimp along salt baths should help alleviate the symptoms.

Symptoms

1. Stingy and hanging feces
2. Bloating
3. Laziness

Causes

1. Lack of fiber

FAQs

1. Rainbowfish
2. Barbs
3. Indian Loach
4. Gouramis
5. Clown Loach
6. Snails

Final Thoughts

Rainbow shark is a beautiful freshwater aquarium fish that adds grace to your home. However, if you cannot afford a bigger tank, I suggest you keep looking for other better and smaller alternatives like nano fish.

One thing that I would strongly advise is recreating the natural environment within the tank with the recommended decors and aquascape.

Also, a happy rainbow shark is mellow and decent. So, make sure to gear up all the essentials before you bring one home.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

The single most important thing to get right in an axolotl tank setup is temperature — and it’s also the most commonly overlooked. Axolotls need water between 60 and 68°F. At 70°F and above, they become stressed, stop eating, and become vulnerable to bacterial infections. In most homes, especially in summer, that means you need an aquarium chiller. It’s an extra cost that surprises a lot of new axolotl keepers who assumed a heater was the only temperature equipment they needed. Beyond temperature, the other non-negotiables are fine sand substrate (axolotls will swallow gravel and get intestinal impactions), gentle filtration with low flow (they stress in strong currents), and nothing sharp or abrasive near those external gills. Get those right and the rest is straightforward. Here’s the complete tank setup guide.

Before we get started, however, let’s make sure you know a little about this awesome amphibian.

Species Overview

Axolotl Tank Setup Guide

Ambystoma mexicanum, commonly referred to as the axolotl, Mexican walking fish, Mexican salamander, or Mexican axolotl, are salamanders that stay in their larval stage.

This means that axolotls will never morph into their adult forms and are thus known as neotenic salamanders. This, however, means that an axolotl will never take to land and thus needs to be housed in a fully aquatic tank setup.

Lifespan

Axolotls are only for those who are ready for a long-term commitment. If cared for properly, these critters will bless you with up to 15 years of cuteness.

Make sure you choose a healthy axolotl to start off with. It can become quite challenging to nurse them back to health.

The stress of moving house won’t help either. This means that a sick axolotl is more likely to get sicker due to stress. Healthy axolotls tend to handle rehoming much better.

Appearance

Adult axolotls are usually dark brown with black speckling. Since they remain aquatic, you can expect to see dark gills extending from both sides of the head.

It is also possible to find other color morphs such as albinos and specimens with both white and brown markings. In albinos or white varieties, you can expect the feathery gills to be a pink color (like the one pictured above).

Mexican walking fish have pretty long tails, while their legs and feet are small in comparison. There is a fin along the spine that extends from the tip of the tail all the way to the back of the head. You can expect to see another lower fin that extends from between the hind legs all the way to the tip of the tail.

Axolotls should always be kept in water due to their permeable skin. If left outside of the water for even a short amount of time, your axolotl will dehydrate and die.

Permeable skin also makes axolotls vulnerable to chemicals in the water. For this reason, you need to make sure only tap water treated with a water conditioner is added to the tank.

Amazingly, these animals can regrow their limbs. Mexican walking fish scientific studies have become quite popular for this particular reason. Everyone would like to know exactly how they do it and if it’s possible to replicate the process for human use.

Average Size

Mexican walking fish may be bigger than you first imagined. The average size of these exotic critters is around 9 inches (23cm).

They can get to about 12 inches (30cm), however, so make sure your tank is big enough to accommodate the size of your fully grown adult axolotls. Many keepers will tell you bigger tanks are always better to house axolotls.

Temperament And Behavior

Ambystoma mexicanum are very peaceful pets. They do very well in community setups with other aquarium fish.

The slow nature of an axolotl makes them relatively safe to have around small fish and other aquatic creatures like shrimps. Pet axolotls prefer to keep to themselves most of the time, even when you have more than one of them in the same tank.

If you have a brightly lit tank, you may never see your axolotl. These critters are nocturnal and very sensitive to bright light. For this reason, they will hide in dark areas of the tank while the lights are on.

During times when the lights are off, the axolotl can be seen digging and sifting through the substrate. This is entertaining for them and appeals to their natural foraging behavior.

Health Considerations

Axolotls are very sensitive creatures. To keep them healthy, you will need to set up an axolotl-friendly tank.

When doing this, keep in mind their behavior, sensitivity, and also how much waste they produce.

For these reasons, axolotls need a tank with good filtration but no extreme currents. The most common signs of distress in axolotls include holding the gills more forward than usual, refusing to eat, and hiding a lot.

Stressed axolotls are also more prone to bacterial infections. If you see any injuries on your pet, make sure to get veterinary advice to solve the problem as quickly as possible.

Diet

Axolotls are highly carnivorous creatures. Fortunately, it’s fairly simple to feed these little wonders.

Feeding axolotls starts with gathering the right foods. They prefer meaty treats like aquatic insects or brine shrimp. What exactly they snack on will also depend on the size of your axolotl so don’t be surprised if brine shrimps just don’t cut it anymore.

If you’re worried about providing the right axolotl feed, consider getting some commercial fish food. Sinking pellets for carnivorous creatures are specifically designed to contain all the nutrients your pet needs to stay healthy. The food from Invert Aquatics below is a great choice.

Great For Axolotls!

Invert Aquatics Soft Pellets for Axolotls

Made in the USA with raw quality ingredients. This food is specially designed for Axolotls!

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Ultimately, what axolotls feed on will depend on what you provide. It’s best to feed a variety of fresh and frozen foods for optimal health.

In addition to the above-mentioned foods, you can also try feeding live mosquito larva, bloodworms, chopped earthworms, strips of meat, or even raw fish. Just keep in mind that you need to feed appropriate amounts to avoid uneaten food spoiling your water quality.

Handling

Handling axolotls should be done with care. If you can avoid it, don’t touch your pet. Instead, use a fine mesh net to catch and relocate your axolotl.

The net will prevent any unnecessary injuries and make it much easier to catch your axolotls when you need to.

Tank Setup

Now that you know a little more about the aquatic animal known as an axolotl, you can start thinking about what you’ll need to create the perfect habitat. Axolotls aren’t very picky about how their tanks look as long as you pay attention to a few critical needs (video source).

Here’s what you need to know.

The Tank

Axolotls don’t need much when it comes to tanks. They can be placed in just about any tank as long as it has enough floor space and has a minimum capacity of around 20 gallons. The main Axolotl cost is upfront with the tank, equipment, and animal. maintenance cost is pretty reasonable.

Beginner pet owners may be incorrectly informed on the care of an axolotl. Some pet stores suggest an axolotl tank with as little as 10 gallons capacity. While these tanks can house younger axolotls just fine, it’s not ideal for fully grown adults.

Axolotls create a lot of waste. If the tank is too small, the water parameters will fluctuate quite drastically. This will affect the health of your axolotl in the long run.

It’s always better to go bigger for this exact reason. Bigger tanks have more water in them which means changes in the water parameters will happen slower. This makes it easier to keep your pet axolotl healthy.

You can start off with a small 10-gallon tank for your young axolotls, but keep in mind you’ll soon have to upgrade. If you can go up to 40 gallons from the start, your axolotl will stand a better chance of staying healthy for its entire life.

Substrate Considerations

Most axolotl keepers often create their axolotl tank with a bare bottom. This makes it easy to keep the tank clean, but might affect the health of your pet.

Leaving the tank bare will simplify doing water changes. You can simply suck up any waste at the bottom of the tank without worrying about the substrate. There’s also less chance of anaerobic bacteria causing problems in your axolotl tank.

Unfortunately, bare bottom tanks can cause some stress in your axolotl. They don’t like slipping on the bottom of the tank and may develop sores on the toes due to the effort they exert to hold on.

They also need something to keep them occupied to prevent boredom. Having a bare bottom tank prevents natural foraging behavior such as digging.

Sand is the best substrate for axolotl tanks. Fine sand will prevent slipping and provide endless entertainment. Axolotls love to dig and sift through sand to mimic natural foraging behaviors.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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If your pet accidentally eats some of the sand, the particles are also small enough to pass through the digestive system without any problems.

It’s best to avoid any fine gravel. These particles are small enough to be swallowed but too big to pass through the digestive system. This can cause problems such as impaction that will lead to the death of your beloved pet.

Coarse gravel should also be avoided. Even if the particles are big enough not to be swallowed, they will irritate the sensitive skin of your axolotl and cause injuries.

Tank Decorations

Axolotl care includes providing enrichment as well as escapes. By adding tank decorations you can do just that. Here are a few things you should consider adding to your axolotl tank.

Driftwood

Driftwood without any sharp edges is great for axolotl tanks. You can create interesting aquascapes as well as some perfect places to hide.

Driftwood can also be used to grow plants like java fern and anubias nana. These plants prefer to grow attached to objects like driftwood with their roots exposed to the water.

Rocks

It’s always a good idea to add a few rocks to your axolotl tank. River rocks can be stacked to create caves and tunnels for your axolotl to hide in and swim through.

Cichlid rocks are an excellent addition as well. These are fake rocks with holes in them specifically made to provide shelter.

Plants

Live plants are a great choice for an axolotl tank. These creatures produce a lot of waste that is turned into nutrients with the help of the beneficial bacteria in your tank.

These nutrients make excellent plant fertilizer. This means that live plants will remove excess nutrients in the water which in turn improves water quality. Low light plants are ideal given the nocturnal nature of these animals.

Plants are also soft and flexible which means your axolotl can swim in between them without the potential of getting snagged or otherwise injured. Axolotls can also use them as shelter when the need arises.

It’s best to stick to plants like java ferns that prefer to grow on other ornaments instead of in the substrate. Axolotls have a habit of digging up plants that are rooted in the substrate.

Fake plants are an option for axolotl tanks, but they aren’t ideal. They tend to have sharp edges that can injure your axolotl. They also don’t bring any benefits to the tank.

Hides

If your tank doesn’t already have enough hiding spots, then you can consider getting a hide. These are especially important in tanks with extra lighting in planted aquariums.

A hide will create a nice dark hiding spot for your axolotl to relax while the aquarium lights are on. Axolotls are quite sensitive to light so they will appreciate this little getaway.

Reptile Hide

Hides are common place in the reptile word. Excellent for creating a safe space for your reptiles and amphibians

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Hides can be just about anything from an aquarium castle with little holes, to ceramic pipes strategically placed around the tank. Just make sure that whatever hide you choose has no sharp edges that can injure your beloved pet axolotl.

Filtration System

Axolotls are known to produce large amounts of waste quite quickly. For this reason, it is very important to have a strong filtration system.

Unfortunately, this can be quite tricky since an axolotl prefers a filtered tank with a relatively low flow compared to most aquarium critters. The next challenge is providing adequate aeration at the same time. Canister filters are excellent as they can work in lower water levels and won’t make the noise a power filter will make with water splashing from the outflow.

You can also utilize an internal filter, but you will want to consider oversizing given the waste production of these animals.

These not-so-small amphibians are quite clumsy swimmers. If the flow in your filtered aquarium is too strong, your axolotl will quickly become exhausted fighting against the current. This exhaustion will lead to stress and ultimately illness and early death.

If you’re unsure if your tank has too much flow, observe your axolotl. Most axolotls will hold their gills more forward than usual when stressed by the flow in your aquarium.

Sponge filters are an excellent choice for axolotl tanks. Despite how effectively they filter waste, they still create a relatively low flow compared to many other filters and pumps available on the market. Sponge filters also increase aeration and oxygen levels which takes care of both problems in one go.

Lighting

Amphibian enthusiasts will tell you that axolotls do just fine without any lighting in their tanks. In fact, they even prefer tanks without any aquarium lights. Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and this means they will be most active in the dark or in the dim lighting provided by the room’s external lighting.

If planted tank lights are required in your aquarium for growing living plants, it is very important to make sure your axolotl has a dark hiding spot to get away from it all. Axolotls don’t have great eyesight, but their eyes are very sensitive to bright light.

You will notice your axolotl only emerging once the lights in your tank go out. To minimize the time your axolotl needs to hide, make sure to choose plants with low light requirements such as anubias nana, cryptocorynes, and java fern.

Water Parameters

Axolotls aren’t too picky when it comes to their water parameters. As long as you stay in the tolerated range, you should have minimal problems.

This doesn’t mean you can skip on doing tank maintenance, however. Aquarium water can go from good to terrible fairly quickly.

If you have some experience in the aquarium hobby, you will know how important it is to test your water regularly. To do this you will need an aquarium water test kit.

This water test kit should give you an idea of what your water parameters look like with the exception of temperature. You’ll need a thermometer to check that.

If you’re wondering what normal axolotl water parameters are, take a look below:

• Water temperature: The acceptable range for water temperature is 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for this species, however, is between 60 and 64 degrees Fahrenheit (16 – 18°C).
• pH: The acceptable range for pH is 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for your axolotl tank will be 7.4 – 7.6.
• GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
• kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
• Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
• Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
• Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

Try to keep the temperature within the temperature range provided. If the tank water constantly warms up to beyond the acceptable range, you might need an aquarium chiller.

The warmer the water, the more stressed your axolotl will become. Warmer water contains less oxygen than cooler water. Axolotls require lots of oxygen to stay healthy which means better aeration is required. If the axolotl just can’t adapt to the change or the aeration isn’t sufficient, it will become stressed and die.

In an emergency, cool the water by adding ice cubes made from fish-safe, treated water. In the case of the water being too cold, simply install an aquarium heater to regulate the temperature.

Make sure to install a thermometer to keep an eye on the temperature in your tank.

Tank Mates

Not all creatures do well as tank mates for axolotls. Some fish tend to nip at their feathery gills. Axolotls are also nocturnal which means they can easily ambush sleeping fish for a quick meal. If you’re still wondering what to place in the tank with your walking fish, take a look at the following suggestions.

Suitable Tank Mates

• Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
• Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
• Guppies
• Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
• White cloud minnows
• Other species of peaceful cool water fish

Tank Mates To Avoid

• Goldfish (Fancy goldfish may work as companions for axolotls)
• Cichlids
• Cory catfish
• Otocinclus catfish
• Any species of aggressive or very large fish

Cory catfish and otocinclus catfish may seem harmless to your axolotl. Unfortunately, these fish do have spines on their dorsal and pectoral fins which can cause fatal injuries to your axolotl if it attempts to eat one of them.

Cycling The Tank

It is very important to prepare your axolotl’s tank at least one month before your new buddy arrives. This allows good bacteria to grow in your tank which in turn stabilizes the water parameters.

These bacteria are responsible for breaking down ammonia which is produced by uneaten food particles as well as axolotl waste. Ammonia is a toxic substance if left untreated.

After being broken down by the bacteria it will be turned into nitrites and then nitrates. Nitrites are still toxic, but the ultimate product, nitrates, is relatively harmless.

If your tank is maintained properly, you should never have spikes in ammonia and nitrites as long as your aquarium is properly cycled beforehand.

Tank Maintenance

Axolotl care starts with proper aquarium maintenance. You will need to do 20% water changes weekly to control the water quality in the tank. A gravel vacuum will come in handy here for siphoning waste from the bottom of the tank.

Before adding new water to the tank, however, make sure it is treated with a water conditioner. Conditioning tap water removes any harmful chemicals such as chlorine from the water.

Your axolotls will spend their entire lives in this tank, so make sure they have the healthiest environment possible.

Keeping Multiples in Your Tank

If you plan on keeping more than one axolotl, start with a minimum tank size of 55 gallons. For every additional axolotl after that add another 10 gallons.

This will allow for the appropriate amount of water to prevent ammonia spikes, prevent aggression, and ultimately unnecessary deaths. Some hobbyists take interest in breeding Axolotls. I have a separate article for that if you are interested here.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about setting up an axolotl tank you should have no problems designing your own. Just remember to set up a decent filtration system and provide lots of hiding places for your axolotl to relax in.

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.

The dojo loach — also known as the weather loach or pond loach — is one of the most underrated fish in the freshwater hobby. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve developed a real appreciation for them. They’re called “weather fish” because they genuinely become more active before storms, sensing changes in barometric pressure — one of the most interesting behaviors you’ll see in a home aquarium. But there are also some things to know before buying: dojo loaches get larger than most people expect (up to 12 inches), they’re legendary escape artists that will find any gap in your lid, and they prefer cooler water than most tropical species. This guide covers everything you need to keep them thriving.

The Dojo Loach (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus), is an awesome freshwater fish that makes a really great addition to freshwater aquariums. These eel-shaped fish have loads of personality and can be very entertaining to watch as they explore the bottom of the fish tank.

Species Overview

Origins and Habitat

The Dojo Loach is a fish species with a pretty wide distribution. They are native to the countries of:

• Russia
• China
• Japan
• Korea
• Vietnam        

Today, the Dojo Loach has an even wider distribution because it has been introduced to many countries outside of its natural range. Sometimes these fish escape when kept in ponds, and sometimes people release them into local waterways.

As a result, you can find these fish swimming wild in parts of Europe, The USA, and Australia. Their natural habitat is ponds, swamps, and shallow streams with a soft, muddy substrate.  

What Do They Look Like?

The Dojo Loach is a long, eel-like fish. They have a small, rounded tail and a similar-sized dorsal fin that is set quite far back.

Like other loaches, the Weatherfish has 1o little whiskers around its mouth. These structures are actually called barbels and they help the fish to find food.

Varieties

Their color varies a lot and they can be plain, striped, or marked in spots and blotches. In the aquarium hobby, interesting albino and golden color morphs are also available.

• Golden Dojo Loach

Gold Dojo Loaches are a really cool color morph that has a plain, golden yellow body color, usually with dark eyes.

• Albino Dojo Loach

Albino Dojo Loaches can be a little lighter in color than the gold dojos and have red eyes.

Size

Dojo Loaches are medium-sized fish that usually grow to about 6 inches long in the home aquarium. They can grow to double this size in the wild, however. If you can provide them with a nice big aquarium and great water quality, you might just be surprised at how big they grow!  

Dojo Loach Care Guide

One of the reasons that Dojo Loaches are so popular is that they are friendly fish with great personalities. In case you’ve been wondering about why the Dojo Loach is also known as a Weather loach, this next fact will amaze you.

These fascinating fish can predict changes in weather. They don’t use satellite imagery or any fancy technology for this, rather the barometric pressure changes that happen before a storm causes their activity levels to spike.

So if you see your Weatherfish spring into action and start getting restless, it might be time to shut the windows and get ready for some rain. Apart from this, Dojo Loaches can be pretty inactive fish.

They love hanging out at the bottom of the tank and hiding in caves or under rocks and driftwood. They also enjoy digging through the substrate and you’ll often find just their little faces sticking up out of the sand.    

What Are Good Tank Mates?

The first tank mate to get for your Weather Loach is definitely a few more Weather Loaches! These fish are most comfortable in groups and will be more bold and active with a few friends around. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep them in a community tank other species as well though.

Before we get onto a few specific ideas, here are a few general pointers for choosing Dojo Loach tank mates:

• These fish require cooler water, so it’s important that you select tankmates that enjoy lower water temperatures
• Choose similar fish that are not known for aggression or fin nipping
• Avoid large predatory fish
• Try to choose some mid and topwater tank mates to avoid overcrowding the bottom of the tank  

Best Tank Mates for Them

Now that you know what to look out for, here are a couple of great species that I would recommend:

• Leopard Danios
• Zebra Danios
• White Cloud Minnows
• Kuhli Loach
• Rosy Barb 

Least Compatible Fish for Them

Unfortunately, warm-water tropical fish will not be good tankmates, unless they are comfortable in temperatures of below about 77°F. Here are a few examples of fish that are not recommended:

• Oscars and other large cichlids
• Larger catfish
• Warm water fish like Discus

Goldfish

There are too many reports of Dojo Loaches attacking Goldfish to ignore. While keeping them together with Common Goldfish is probably perfectly safe, less agile fancy Goldfish should probably be avoided.

Invertebrates

These bottom dwellers feed on invertebrates like snails, crustaceans, and insect larvae. This means that they are not good tank mates for shrimp and snails.

In fact, Weather Loaches can be very handy for controlling pest snail populations in freshwater aquariums. Although larger shrimps like Amanos will probably hold their own against Weather Loaches, I wouldn’t recommend taking the risk.

Let’s take a look at how to provide them with a healthy diet:

Prepared Foods

As far as processed foods are concerned, bottom feeder tablets or sinking pellets are the best options for these fish. They will eat flake food but they don’t usually feed from the water surface.

It’s really fun to watch these fish feed. Once the tablet has reached the bottom of the tank (or sometimes even before), they will smell the food and begin searching the bottom of the tank. Once found, the feeding frenzy begins as they playfully wrestle each other, taking turns feeding on the shrinking pellet.

Another reason that this fish species can be so fun to keep is that, with a little patience, they will happily eat right out of your hand if they like the food you are providing.

Live & Frozen Foods

Feeding frozen and live foods is a great way to provide your Dojo Loaches with a natural food source. If you have other schooling fish in the tank like minnows or danios, your loaches might not get much before it’s all eaten though.

One way to limit this competition is to feed enough for all of your fish to get a good helping. Alternatively, you can add your live/frozen foods just after your other fish have had their fill of the pellets or tropical flakes they usually feed on.

Some great live/frozen foods that you can feed your Dojo Loaches include:

• Blood Worms
• Brine Shrimp
• Tubifex Worms

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

If feeding sinking foods like bottom feeder tablets, you can feed these fish every day or every second day. It really depends on the amount of food you are providing, as well as the number and size of your fish.

In order to prevent overfeeding, make sure you aren’t feeding more than your fish can eat in one go. Uneaten food in the tank tends to cause nasty ammonia spikes and reduced water quality.

Tank Setup

If you want your Dojo Loach to live the longest, healthiest life possible, you’ll need to create an awesome tank where it can feel right at home. Here’s how:

Tank Size

When it comes to choosing the best tank size for aquarium fish, you must consider both the size of the fish and their habits. In the case of the adult Weather Loach, you’re going to need a tank of at least 55 gallons.

When you first get your dojos, they might be just a few inches long, but then they still have plenty of growing to do! A mature Dojo Loach can reach nearly a foot long.

These fish don’t spend a whole lot of time swimming in the open water, so a tank with a large footprint is ideal so give them plenty of room to explore the bottom.

Don’t Forget the Lid/Hood

You might not think it by looking at them, but loach species tend to be great jumpers. Sadly, these fish will jump out of aquariums without lids, and usually, this ends in tragedy. For this reason, dojos should only be housed in aquariums with tight-fitting lids. If you are considering a rimless aquarium, purchase a glass lid from the manufacturer or store you purchase from.

Plants

Growing live plants in your aquarium is pretty much always a great benefit for your fish. Sometimes, however, the fish aren’t so good for the plants, and this can be the case with the Dojo Loach.

These fish are natural-born diggers, and they just love to crawl through the roots of plants. Unfortunately, this often disturbs the plants and sometimes uproots them completely.

While dojo loaches aren’t a great choice for carefully designed aquascapes, you definitely can keep them in planted tanks. I would suggest growing epiphytes that grow attached to driftwood, floating plants, or leaving stem and rosette plants in their pots.

Some great plants to use are:

• Java Moss
• Java Fern
• Anubias nana
• Water Sprite

Plants to avoid

• Dwarf Hair grass
• Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’
• Baby Tears

Substrate

Pond Loaches are bottom dwellers that love to dig and explore the bottom of the tank. They have sensitive whiskers called barbels, and their bodies are not covered in protective scales. This means that they can easily hurt themselves in a sharp, coarse substrate.

In their natural habitat, these fish prefer mud and soft sand, but the best aquarium substrates for them is definitely fine sand or rounded gravel.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Decor

Apart from burying themselves in the substrate, Weather Loaches also love to hang out in caves and other hiding places. You can make up your own hiding places by stacking rocks or driftwood carefully, just make sure you arrange your hardscape securely to prevent any accidents during tank maintenance.

If you prefer ready-made options, you can always pick up some aquarium ornaments like artificial caves, castles, or sunken ships.

Water Quality

When it comes to aquarium husbandry, maintaining great water quality is the most important factor for success. Let’s take a look at how to keep your aquarium clean and healthy:

Filtration

A good quality filter is essential for keeping your tank clean and safe for your pets. When it comes to Dojo loaches, any type of filter is fine, although these fish do not enjoy very strong water flow.

One important tip is to go ahead and cover up your filter intake to be on the safe side because loaches love to hide, and often find their way inside filters.

Water Parameters

One of the most important things to remember is that Dojo Loaches aren’t tropical fish, so you probably will not need to run a heater to keep your water temperature in the right range. Be aware that if you live in a tropical area, the water temperatures in your tank might rise to warmer than 77°F even without a heater.

Apart from their temperature needs, Weather Loaches are very hardy fish that will do well in most setups. They are happy in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline water, with a range of hardness values.

Aquarium Maintenance

You will need to perform regular partial water changes to keep your aquarium water safe and healthy for your pets. Although Dojo Loaches are not very sensitive to water conditions, they definitely deserve the best conditions that you can provide for them.

Water changes are a pretty easy and straightforward job that you can do every week or two. If you’re not sure about how to change the water in your tank, go ahead and check out this article for all you need to know!

Test Tank Conditions

Even with a great quality filter and regular maintenance, the only way to know how good your water parameters are is to test. Your local fish store can test your water for you, but I would definitely recommend picking up a test kit.

Testing your water is easy, and this way, you’ll be able to pick up any problems before they turn into a headache! The most important parameters to test for are:

• Ammonia
• Nitrite
• Nitrate
• pH    

Breeding

Few aquarists have managed to breed this fish species in the home aquarium. That being said, it does happen and many fry have been successfully raised this way. the greatest challenge is that this often seems to happen out of the blue, so it is unknown exactly what triggers breeding and how to create these conditions in the tank. I supplied the video above from FishyBusiness. I’ll explain in text below.

Sexing

The most visible difference between male and female loaches is the size and shape of their pectoral fins. These fins are located just behind the fish’s gills.

In the male, they are larger and more triangular in shape when looked at from above. The female’s pectoral fins will be rounder in profile and a little smaller.

Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

It is not known exactly what makes Dojo Loaches get into the mood to breed in the aquarium. Many fish are stimulated to breed by a change in barometric pressure, water temperature, and current that mimics a change in the seasons.

When it comes to Weather Loaches, there are no guarantees though, so your best chance is probably just to provide your fish with a great home with perfect parameters and a high-quality diet that includes live/frozen foods like Tubifex worms or black worms.  

Health and Disease

Dojo Loaches are usually very hardy, low-maintenance fish for cool water aquariums. They do pick up issues from time to time though, so let’s take a look at how to identify and avoid health problems.

Evaluating Their Health

Whether you’re picking out a new pet at the fish store, or just keeping an eye on the health of the fish in your tank, there are some important things to look out for.

A healthy Dojo Loach will spend a lot of its time hiding out in the substrate or under the hardscape of your aquarium. This is normal behavior, so don’t worry if they seem a little inactive. Around feeding time they should get a lot more lively, however.

Signs of poor health to look out for are:

• Clamped fins that are held tight against the fishes sides
• Floating caused by swim bladder issues
• Worn barbels that could indicate infection or damage from a sharp substrate
• White spots or patches on the skin that caused by parasites and fungal infections
• Swollen external gills

Common Health Issues

Although Dojo Loaches are very hardy aquarium bottom feeders, these are the issues that they are most likely to have:  

• Skin infections
• Ich
• Swim bladder  disease

Weather Loaches don’t have any scales which means their skin is very sensitive to damage. These fish love to dig, so avoid keeping them in a tank with a sharp substrate that could injure their skin and barrels, leaving them vulnerable to infections.

The best way to avoid illness is to make sure you keep your water quality high by running good filtration and performing regular water changes. Keeping Weather Loaches in water that is too warm will also stress your fish, which can lead to infections and other health issues.

Where to Buy

Dojo Loaches are common fish in the aquarium trade, and you can usually find them at your local fish store or online. I recommend checking out Flipaquatics because they keep great quality stock and back it up with a 100% live arrival guarantee to take the stress out of online shopping. They also stock the amazing golden form when available and quarantine all their fish!

Dojo Loach

A bottom-dwelling fish that is very adaptable. Compatible in both tropical and coldwater environments

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Frequently Asked Questions

Closing Thoughts

Dojo Loaches deserve a spot in just about any unheated freshwater aquarium. These funny freshwater fish are easy to care for and very entertaining to watch as they explore the lower levels of the tank. You can use the information in this guide to help you provide your Weather Loach with the best care.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Aquarium snails get a bad reputation that’s often undeserved — some are genuinely excellent additions to a tank as part of a cleanup crew, while others are hitchhiker pests that reproduce fast enough to take over if you’re not careful. After 25 years in the hobby I’ve kept most of the popular species and dealt with the problem ones too, so I can give you a clear picture of which snails are worth adding intentionally and which you should avoid or remove. This guide covers 7 species worth keeping and 4 to steer clear of.

Good Vs. Bad?

What makes a good and a bad aquarium snail? Well, there are good and bad sides to most of the snails in the aquarium hobby. Many aquarists think of snails as fascinating pets that can be both beautiful and useful in the aquarium. Others don’t like them at all, especially when they find their way into the tank by accident and seem to take over!

Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons of keeping these tank cleaners in your aquarium.

Pros

1. Snails do an excellent job of cleaning up leftover fish food and waste in the tank. They are the captains of the clean-up crew!

2. Snails eat algae- freshwater snails can help to keep your tank’s glass, plants, ornaments, and substrate looking clean and beautiful.

3. Some snails burrow into the substrate. Digging through the substrate releases trapped gas and also takes nutrients down to where plants need them. Snails can also clean the surface layer of the substrate to keep your tank looking great.

Cons

1. When snails breed out of control, they can actually add to the bioload of your aquarium, causing your tank to become overstocked and go out of balance.

2. It’s pretty rare, but some freshwater snails will feed on living plants.

3. A huge overpopulation of snails can look bad, and they can stick to the glass and leave snail eggs all over the tank too.

As long as you manage the cons, just about any aquarium snail can be a ‘good’ snail. That being said, certain species of snails do make much better choices than others.

The 7 Best Freshwater Aquarium Snail Species

There is quite a variety of snails available in the hobby at the moment, so choosing the right species for your tank can be a bit of a challenge.

In this article, I’m introducing the most popular types of freshwater aquarium snails and providing you with the most important information about them like:

• Scientific Name
• Size
• Origin
• Temperature
• pH
• Tank size

Although there are several species of snails available in the aquarium trade, these are the best species for planted tanks in particular. I consider these 7 types of snails to be the best options for most aquariums though, and they are great as species for community tanks as well. Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into further detail below. If you like our content, subscribe to us! You can use this information to help you decide which type of snail is best for your aquarium.

Let’s jump right in and meet these slow-moving aquatic friends!

1. Horned Nerite

Best Algae Snail

Horned Nerite Snail

Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

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• Scientific Name: Clithon corona
• Size: 1 inch
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 72-82°F
• pH: 7.0-8.2
• Tank Size: 5+ gallons

Horned nerite snails are fascinating aquarium snails that come in a variety of colors and patterns. They are easily identified by the projections (horns) on the shell.

The color of their shells is pretty variable but often they have a cool black and yellow striped look. These snails eat algae and are great scavengers for freshwater aquariums.

Like other popular aquarium snails from the Neritidae family, these animals live in freshwater but need brackish water to breed. These peaceful snails are perfect for aquascapes because they do not eat live plants.

2. Zebra Nerite

Zebra Nerite

Nerite snails are one of the best algae eating snails you can buy. Plant safe and do not reproduce in fresh water!

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• Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis
• Size: 1 inch
• Origin: South Africa, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Somalia
• Temperature: 65-85°F
• pH: 6.5-8.5
• Tank size: 5+ gallons

Zebra nerite snails are one of the best aquatic snails for your planted aquarium. These animals look amazing and get their name from their beautiful striped shells.

It’s not only their looks that make them so great though, but they are also amazing algae eaters!

Nerite snails cannot breed in freshwater and rely on brackish water to reproduce. For this reason, you’ll never have to worry about this species overpopulating your freshwater aquarium.

3. Tiger Nerite

Tiger Nerite Snails

These Nerite Snails will eat algae, are plant safe, and do not reproduce in your aquarium!

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• Scientific Name: Vittina semiconica
• Size: 1.5 inches
• Origin: Indonesia
• Temperature: 65-85°F
• pH: 6.5-8.5
• Tank size: 5+ gallons

Like the zebra nerite, tiger nerites won’t bother live plants or breed in your tank. These snails have a really cool golden orange shell with rows of interesting black markings.

They do occasionally lay eggs, but these aren’t going to hatch in a freshwater tank. Nerite snails are excellent algae eaters and they do a fantastic job of keeping the tank clean.

4. Malaysian Trumpet

• Scientific Name: Melanoides tuberculata
• Size: 1 inch
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Temperature: 72-86°F
• pH: 6.5-7.5
• Tank size: 3+ gallons

Malaysian Trumpet Snails are a species that many fishkeepers think of as pest snails. If you look at some of their benefits, however, it’s clear that there’s more to these crawling creatures!

They are burrowing snails that are great for managing the substrate at the bottom of your tank. All that burrowing prevents the build-up of toxic gases and helps to work nutrients into the soil which actually benefits the plants.

These animals aren’t for everyone though. Malaysian trumpet snails breed fast, are ultra-tough, and can be very difficult to remove, so think carefully before introducing them to your tank.

5. Mystery

• Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
• Size: 2 inches
• Origin: Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 7.6-8.4
• Tank size: 5+ gallons

Mystery Snails are awesome cleaners that will eat any leftover food in the aquarium. They are large snails but are super peaceful and work great in shrimp tanks. Mystery snails are also known as Gold Inca snails.

Mystery snails can be bred in the aquarium, but unlike other types of snails, their eggs must be laid outside of the water. This requirement, together with the fact that you need a male and female to breed, means they are easy to control and won’t multiply unless you make it possible.

6. Rabbit

Rabbit Snail

A snail with a head that resembles a rabbit. Great for keeping the substrate tidy and clean. It can grow up to 4″ inches in size

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• Scientific Name: Tylomelania spp.
• Size: 2-4 inches
• Origin: Indonesia
• Temperature: 76-84°F
• pH: 7.2-8
• Tank size: 30+ gallons

Rabbit snails look kind of like a jumbo Malaysian trumpet snail. The head of this species resembles a rabbit’s head, and that’s where they get their name.

There are several species of rabbit snails available. These big snails come in a few cool color morphs and won’t multiply like trumpet snails. Although it isn’t usually a problem, rabbit snails have been reported to feed on some aquarium plants like Java Ferns.

These snails are great for cleaning up the tank and also keep the substrate healthy by burrowing. Because they grow pretty big, these snails are best for larger fish tanks of 30 gallons or more.

7. Ivory

• Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
• Size: 2 inches
• Origin: Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru
• Temperature: 68-82°F
• pH: 7.6-8.4
• Tank size: 5+ gallons

If you like Mystery Snails, but want something a little more exotic for your planted tank, the Ivory Snail might be the perfect option for you. These awesome-looking snails are the same species as the regular Mystery Snail but have been bred to have pure cream-white shells and pale white bodies with pink and orange markings.

Ivory Snails also have all the same great benefits for your tank as the regular Mystery Snail. These active snails will search your tank for algae and uneaten fish food and are completely peaceful with their tankmates.

The 4 To Avoid

The species in this list tend to be those unwanted snails that aquarists try to get rid of. They do have their positive sides, so I’m not calling them straight-up villains here.

Instead, you are recommended to be very cautious about adding them to your tank and rather try out some of the other snails listed above. You see our video below if you want to see these snails in action. Please subscribe to our YouTube channel if you like content like this.

1. Bladder

• Scientific Name: Physa acuta
• Size: 1/2 inch
• Origin: Uncertain
• Temperature: 64-84°F
• pH: 7-8
• Tank size: 3+ gallons

Bladder snails (video source) are a freshwater snail species that many aquarists have in their tanks. However, these snails aren’t usually added to fish tanks by choice!

These distinctive-looking snails have the ability to breed fast, and since they are hermaphroditic, you only need one to start a colony. Bladder Snails don’t dig and they breathe air from the surface, although they spend most of their time cruising around on surfaces in your tank.

They feed on algae, waste, and uneaten food but do not damage plants. They will feed on damaged or dead plant matter, however.

2. Ramshorn

• Scientific Name: Planorbarius duryi
• Size: 1 inch
• Origin: USA
• Temperature: 60-80°F
• pH: 7.0-7.5
• Tank size: 5+ gallons

Ramshorn snails often find their way into aquariums accidentally on new plants. They are one of the most common pest snails in the aquarium trade.

Ramshorn snails are very peaceful but breed freely, which can be pretty annoying if you never planned on having them in the first place. Ramshorn snails are hard workers in freshwater aquariums, however, and have awesome multicolored spiraled shells.

They are not fussy about food and are happy to scavenge and feed on uneaten fish food. They will also eat algae but do not feed on live plants. They are known for eating black beard algae.

3. Assassin

• Scientific Name: Clea helena
• Size: 1-2 inches
• Origin: Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia
• Temperature: 75-80°F
• pH: 7-8
• Tank size: 29+ gallons

Assassin Snails are the cannibals of the snail world. These carnivorous mollusks feed on other snails, so most aquarists keep them to help control the population of pest snails in their tanks.

For that purpose, they are great, but if you like your snails, avoid introducing assassins to your tank! Although it is rare, they will sometimes feed on freshwater shrimps in the aquarium as well.

Usually, however, they will only feed on dead or dying shrimps, and even dead fish. If you don’t have other snails, you can still keep this species if you provide them with a high protein sinking food like bloodworms.

4. Apple

• Scientific Name: Pomecea canaliculata
• Size: 2-3 inches
• Origin: Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, Bolivia, and Argentina
• Temperature: 65-82°F
• pH: 7-8
• Tank size: 10+ gallons

Apple snails (image source) have crawled onto this list of snails to avoid for two reasons, they have a habit of eating live plants and they are invasive.

To be fair, apple snails can make an interesting pet in tanks without any live plants, but they should be kept far away from your aquascapes.

Apple snails have escaped captivity and become invasive in many parts of Asia and the Southeast of the USA. They will probably invade other parts of the world if they are allowed to, so please remember to be responsible and never release them (or any other aquarium plant or animal) into the wild.

How To Care

Most types of snails are really easy to care for and will thrive in your fish tank without any extra effort from you. They will do best in a healthy and stable environment though, so here’s some basic information on how to provide them with a great home.

How To Set Up Your Tank

Aquarium and pond snails can be kept in just about any tank size, although the larger species obviously need more space. Assassin snails, for example, will do best in larger tanks with more stable conditions.

Good filtration is very important for keeping healthy aquariums. Although many snail species can survive in lower water quality conditions, running a good quality filter will keep the water looking and smelling pristine. Filtration is also super important if you plan on keeping other animals like shrimp and fish.

To keep the water temperature stable in your aquarium, you will need to install an aquarium heater. Make sure you set your heater to a temperature that your species of snail is comfortable in. A thermometer is also very useful because it allows you to monitor the water temperature in your tank.

Some types of snails, like nerites, for example, will often crawl out of the water and can easily escape your fish tank. Make sure you have a secure lid/hood over your tank to prevent them from escaping and getting lost or hurt.

What To Feed Them

Most aquarium snails will live happily in your aquarium without needing to be fed specifically. Here’s what they eat:

• Uneaten fish food
• Dead plant matter
• Soft algae
• Fish waste

This makes keeping your snails happy and well-fed really easy. If you don’t have enough of those food sources available to your snails, you can also feed them some bottom feeder tablets, or even some blanched green vegetables.

Providing an extra food source is definitely recommended if you keep a lot of algae-eating snails like nerites and they run out of food. If this happens, it is even possible to grow algae for them to eat.

Where To Get Them

Many fishkeeping stores have a few of the more common snails available for sale. For a great variety of cool aquarium snail species from an online fish store, I would suggest checking out Flipaquatics. The team at Flipaquatics takes great care of their stock to ensure your new pets arrive in perfect shape.

How To Avoid Introducing Nuisance Varieties To Your Aquarium

Snails often find their way into aquariums, whether we introduce them intentionally or not! It is easy to prevent this from happening though, so let’s start by looking at how they sneak in.

How Can They Get Into Your Tank?

The first thing to note is that snails can get into your aquarium as adults, or as eggs. Any time you add something to your aquarium that has been in another aquarium, you run the risk of adding snails.

This includes the tanks at your local fish store or even your friends’ tanks. Adding things to your tank from wild sources like ditches, lakes, or rivers is also a risk.

Snails and their eggs are usually attached to new plants, ornaments, gravel, or basically anything from another tank. Snails are really tough as well, so even if an object has been outside of a tank for some time, the snails can still survive.

Another way that snails can arrive is when you introduce new fish to your tank. Sometimes a little gravel gets scooped up and bagged along with your new fish, and sometimes a snail or two can be part of the deal.

Tips To Keep Them Out

Adding new plants is one of the most common ways that pest snails are introduced to fish tanks. Before adding a new plant to your aquarium, check it thoroughly and rinse it off, removing any snails or eggs you might see.

Next, prepare a bleach dip consisting of 1 part bleach to about 20 parts water. Dip soft plants in the solution for no more than a minute and firm plants for up to two minutes. Afterward, rinse the plants off carefully with conditioned water before planting them out.

A much easier way to safely add new plants is to buy tissue culture specimens. These are plants that are carefully grown under special lab conditions to ensure that they are pest-free. They are not always easy to find, so check out online retailers like Buceplant for a great range.

My Pick

Buce Plant

Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

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How To Get Rid Of Nuisance Varieties

Before starting an all-out war with the snails in your tank, remember the great benefits they provide. Often, it’s best to keep them around but keep the numbers down to a reasonable level.

Managing the snail population in your tank can be surprisingly easy if you understand this one simple truth about snails: the more food they have, the more they will breed! So how do you reduce the amount of food available to the snails?

Reducing Their Food Supply

Well, start by making sure you are not overfeeding your fish. If there’s limited food for the snails, their numbers will stay stable.

It is very important to maintain good water quality in your tank by performing regular water changes and tank maintenance. This is the best way to keep the nutrient levels low in the water.

Another great way to reduce the nutrients in your aquarium is to grow fast-growing aquarium plants that will soak up excess nutrients and turn them into healthy new leaves!

Physical Removal

Here’s a great tip for actively managing the snail numbers in your tank: you can bait them with algae wafers or even a piece of lettuce or some other leafy green.

Set the bait into a small dish on the bottom of the tank, and weigh it down so that the snails can access it. Leave the dish in the tank overnight, and remove it the next morning when it is crawling with snails!

Introduce Assasin Species

Introducing another species of freshwater aquarium snail to your tank might seem like a terrible way to reduce your pest snail population. Assassin snails are one kind of animal that can really help though because they eat other snails.

Fish That Will Eat Them

Whether you want to keep your pet snails safe from hungry fish, or are looking for a way to remove unwanted pests from your aquarium, knowing which species of fish eat snails is very useful! The following fish species are notorious snail-eaters that can help remove pest snails from your tank.

• Clown Loach
• Skunk Loach
• Yoyo Loach
• Carnivorous Cichlids
• Freshwater Pufferfish
• Goldfish

Fish That Are Compatible with Them

For the snail-lovers out there, it can be devastating to see your pets eaten by their tank mates. Fortunately, most peaceful community fish will get along fine with snails, as long as they prefer the same water parameters.

Smaller nano fish are usually a safer bet than larger fish, and shrimp are also great tank mates. Fish have a mind of their own of course, and there are no 100% guarantees, but as long as you avoid the fish listed above, your snails should be safe.

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Love them or hate them, aquarium snails are something that most aquarists and fishkeepers will come across sooner or later. Some might be pests, but many of them are very cool additions to community tanks and planted aquariums.

Whether you’re looking to add new snails to your tank or get rid of them, I hope this guide helps you out! Please comment below if you have any questions.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide — your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.