Author: Mark Valderrama

  • The 7 Best Plants for Cichlid Tanks: My Picks After Keeping Mbunas in a Planted Setup

    The 7 Best Plants for Cichlid Tanks: My Picks After Keeping Mbunas in a Planted Setup

    I’ve kept Mbunas in planted tanks and the results surprised me. Most people assume African cichlids and live plants can’t coexist, but with the right species it absolutely works. The key is choosing plants tough enough to survive the digging, uprooting, and occasional nibbling that cichlids are known for. In this guide, I cover the 7 plant species I’d trust in a cichlid tankโ€”rooted in real experience, not just theory.

    Key Takeaways

    • African, Central, and South American cichlids can be kept with popular aquatic plants, like Anubias, Java fern, and Cryptocoryne.
    • Plant species are limited by water parameters and cichlid behavior.
    • Some cichlids will rip plants from the substrate, so rhizome species are a better choice.
    • Many of these plant species are low-maintenance but vary in growing times.

    The 7 Best Plants For Cichlid Tank

    Many cichlid tank setups are barebones with a plain substrate and intricate rockwork. These tanks cater to the natural behavior of cichlids, aggressively establishing and defending a territory space within the tank. Having plenty of hiding spots throughout the aquarium helps to diminish aggression while also offering breeding pairs safe spots to spawn. Still, a plain tank can look pretty boring even though African, Central American, and South American cichlids are some of the most colorful fish in the aquarium hobby.

    However, these plain setups are pretty similar to the natural habitats that you might find near Lake Tanganyika or Lake Malawi cichlids. These lakes have basic, hard water that doesn’t support many plants, with even fewer of those species being commercially available in the hobby. As we’ll see, this largely applies to African cichlid tanks. On the other hand, some Central and South Americans originate from very biodiverse waterways, leaving many options open for a planted aquarium.

    I used to be skeptical about African cichlid planted tanks until George Farmerโ€”one of the most respected aquascapers in the hobbyโ€”showed me what was possible with the right plant selection. It genuinely opened my eyes. With tough, rhizome-based species like Anubias, Java fern, and Vallisneria, a planted Mbuna tank is achievable and stunning when done right.

    Generally, these are some of the best plant species available for cichlid tanks.

    The biggest mistake I see is choosing the wrong plantsโ€”soft, delicate species that cichlids tear apart within days. The second mistake is impatience: plants in cichlid tanks grow slower because lighting is usually lower and CO2 isn’t typically used. Cichlids will also detach rhizome plants from surfaces regularly. Set your expectations and focus on the tough species at the top of this list.

    1. Anubias

    Anubias
    Anubias

    Anubias is hardy and more fish and inverts won’t bother it. An excellent choice for beginners!

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    • Scientific Name: Anubias spp.
    • Size: 6-18 inches
    • Tank Placement: On surfaces
    • Lighting: Low
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Anubias are very hardy plants that grow in nearly any water condition. They can be acclimated to more basic or acidic water pH levels, making them a possible addition to either American or African cichlid tanks. Anubias also prefer lower aquarium lighting, which makes them accessible to hobbyists with low-tech setups. It’s important to keep Anubias under low lighting and in some water flow as these plants cannot tolerate algae growing on their leaves.

    In addition to tolerating different water parameters, Anubias grows on driftwood, rock, and other surfaces. They are not planted in the substrate, which is beneficial since many cichlids love digging through sand and dirt. These plants have thick leaves that also make it hard for cichlids to nip at. Even if you have a troublesome picker, it is unlikely that the plant will be totally eaten.

    Anubias is my #1 pick for any cichlid tankโ€”including Mbunas. I’ve grown it attached to rocks in my African cichlid setups and even my most aggressive fish leave it alone. The thick, rubbery leaves are simply unpleasant to eat, and because Anubias attaches to surfaces rather than planting in substrate, cichlids can’t uproot it no matter how much they dig. It’s the most cichlid-proof plant I’ve found.

    There are many species of Anubias to choose from, with some being hardier and more attainable than others. There are also dwarf species and others that grow to have moderately large leaves, though they are all generally slow growers.

    Some of the most popular species of Anubias are:

    • Anubias nana
    • Anubias barteri
    • Anubias heterophylla
    • Anubias congensis

    2. Java Fern

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

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    • Scientific Name: Leptochilus pteropus/Microsorum pteropus
    • Size: <12 inches
    • Tank Placement: On surfaces
    • Lighting: Low to moderate
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Java fern is similar to Anubias in terms of hardiness but offers much more height and placement possibilities. These plants can vary in size, especially when it comes to leaf width. There are tall and skinny varieties like Java Fern Narrow and Java Fern Needle Leaf, or larger-leaf ones like Java Fern Broad Leaf.

    For the most part, all types of Java Fern can be kept in any planted tank. These plants are so resilient that hobbyists even keep them in brackish conditions. They are also difficult and unpleasant to eat, so many fish avoid them. That being said, Java fern can thrive under low to moderate lighting and even high lighting if given time to acclimate. Their rhizomes cannot be planted in the substrate and they need to attach to rocks, driftwood, or other decorations.

    Java fern is a slow grower but becomes bushy over time. This, in addition to the many different types available, makes them a great addition to cichlid planted tanks.

    3. Bolbitis

    • Scientific Name: Bolbitis spp.
    • Size: <24 inches
    • Tank Placement: Midground or background in areas of high water flow
    • Lighting: Low to moderate
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Another great plant option for Central, South American, and African cichlids are members of the Bolbitis genus. These are interesting-looking plants that can come in a lacy or broad leaf appearance. One lacy type is Bolbitis difformis while a straighter one is Bolbitis heteroclita.

    These are slow-growing ferns that can reach impressive sizes. Because of this, Bolbitis are used as either midground or foreground coverage. They don’t need a ton of light but do best when placed in high water flow.

    Like Anubias and Java fern, Bolbitis grows from a rhizome that can be attached to surfaces throughout the aquarium, which is necessary when keeping them with cichlids. They have tough, unpleasant leaves that nearly all fish avoid eating.

    Bolbitis is underrated in the cichlid plant conversation. It’s not as commonly sold as Anubias or Java fern, but if you can find it, it’s one of the tougher options on this list and adds a really distinct look to a cichlid tank.

    4. Cryptocoryne

    Low Tech Plant!
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne spp.
    • Size: <12 inches on average
    • Tank Placement: Midground or background
    • Lighting: Low to moderate
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Cryptocoryne species are some of the most popular plants available for freshwater aquariums. These plants come in various shapes, sizes, and colors, and are pretty forgiving of varying water parameters. That being said, not every Cryptocoryne species is the right fit for a cichlid tank. Some of the preferred species include:

    • Cryptocoryne wendtii
    • Cryptocoryne usteriana

    Unlike the other species on this list, these plants need to be planted in the substrate. They get their nutrients mainly from their root system, so substrate fertilizers are recommended. Crypts are relatively slow-growing and much more palatable than the plants previously listed, so it’s important to keep your cichlids well-fed. Creating other sources of enrichment, like through live food, can also help distract other fish from digging up and nibbling on leaves.

    5. Crinum

    Crinum_calamistratum
    • Scientific Name: Crinum calamistratum/Crinum thaianum
    • Size: <24 inches
    • Tank Placement: Any
    • Lighting: Moderate to high
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Crinum calamistratum and Crinum thaianum are uncommon to find at your local fish or pet store, though they continue to grow in popularity. These plants are mostly found growing on land, but a few make perfect additions to the cichlid planted tank (picture source: File:Crinum Calamistratum kz02.jpg – Wikimedia Commons. 13 Dec. 2019, commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Crinum_calamistratum_kz02.jpg).

    Crinum is a bulb that should be partially buried in the substrate. They need moderate to high lighting and should have some water flow to keep algae from growing on their leaves. Both of these species are root feeders and will need a nutrient-rich substrate.

    Otherwise, Crinum species are very hardy and will withstand being uprooted or eaten by a hungry cichlid. Make sure to feed your fish plenty of other food for a better chance of your plant’s survival. In especially favorable conditions, Crinum may produce a white flower.

    It should be noted that Crinum species prefer hard water conditions, like those found with African cichlids. However, they can be kept in near-neutral conditions if a Central or South American setup allows.

    6. Vallisneria

    Vallisneria
    Vallisneria

    One of the easiest background placement aquarium plants that can be kept. Provides excellent shelter for fish

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    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria spp.
    • Size: <36 inches
    • Tank Placement: Midground or background
    • Lighting: Low to high
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    If you’re looking to create an African cichlid biotope, then some species of Vallisneria might be on your list. These are some of the few species of aquatic plant found in Lake Tanganyika that are readily available in the aquarium hobby. Don’t worry though. These are very hardy plants that can be kept with most other cichlids as well.

    There are many species of Vallisneria available with some staying under 10 inches and others growing out of the tank. Some of the popular types include:

    • Vallisneria americana
    • Vallisneria gigantea
    • Vallisneria spiralis

    Vallisneria are fast-growing with tough leaves that fish struggle to eat. However, new shoots might be susceptible to nibbling.

    7. Amazon Sword

    Amazon Sword
    Amazon Sword

    A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

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    • Scientific Name: Echinodorus spp.
    • Size: <24 inches
    • Tank Placement: Background
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Cichlid Type: Central, South American, and African cichlids

    Amazon swords are very fast-growing, bright green plants that can outgrow and withstand your cichlid’s behaviors. These plants do need to be planted in the substrate, so you might have trouble initially getting them established if your fish keep ripping them up. However, they can be kept in nearly all aquarium conditions as long as they are given moderate lighting.

    There are several types of Amazon sword, like Echinodorus bleheri, Echinodorus grandifolius, Echinodorus xinguensis, and Echinodorus horizontalis. Some of these species may be better equipped for withstanding lower water pH’s in Central and South American cichlid planted tanks.

    There is a chance that cichlids will eat Amazon swords, but adding more plants and keeping fish fed can help deter picking.

    Species That Work Best

    Now that we know some of the possible plants that can be kept with cichlids, we can look more into which cichlids do best with which plants.

    Here are some of the most common cichlids that you might be considering adding to a planted tank.

    1. Apistogrammas

    Apistogramma cacatuoides

    Apistogrammas are a South American cichlid that are commonly kept in blackwater community tank setups with a sand substrate. These fish are very easy to pair with plants and can be kept with all the species mentioned on this list. They will also appreciate floating plants.

    2. Ram Cichlids

    Bolivan Ram Cichlid

    Another South American cichlid, rams are commonly kept in planted community tanks. However, these fish prefer higher-than-normal water temperatures compared to other fish, which can be stressful to some of the more sensitive species of plant. For the most part, Java fern, Anubias, crypts, Bolbitis, and Vallisneria will work in these warmer setups.

    It should also be noted that ram cichlids love to burrow through the substrate, so root-feeder species might be torn up.

    3. Angelfish

    Black Angelfish

    Angelfish are undeniably the most common cichlid to see in the average hobbyist’s aquarium. These fish thrive in slow-moving, heavily planted conditions. They are unlikely to nip at plants and like to take shelter in dense vegetation. However, some of the plants on this list, like Anubias and Crinum, require water flow to prevent algae from growing on their leaves.

    Plants from these genera can still be kept with angels, but some algae control will be needed. This can be done through mechanical maintenance, using nerite snails, or other fish to gently eat algae off the surface of the leaves.

    Julidochromis ornatus

    Julidochromis are a common African cichlid from Lake Tanganyika. This lake has hard, basic water, and plants need to be able to acclimate to those conditions. Because of this, Java fern and Anubias are popular options, along with endemic species of Vallisneria.

    4. Discus

    Blue-Diamond-Discus

    Discus are some of the most challenging fish to keep in the aquarium hobby due to their need for pristine water quality. Luckily, plants help maintain water parameters and can help reduce the maintenance needed to keep these South American cichlids. Unfortunately, discus also prefer higher-than-normal water temperatures, which needs to be considered when picking out different plants.

    Like ram cichlids, some of the best warm water plant species include Java fern, Anubias, crypts, Bolbitis, and Vallisneria.

    5. Geophagus altifrons

    Geophagus altifrons are fun South American cichlids that look stunning in a planted aquarium. These fish can successfully be kept with all the plant species on this list, though it is possible they will dig up any planted ones.

    Some Geophagus are kept in very low acidic water parameters, so some consideration may be needed. However, many plants can adapt.

    6. Neolamprologus leleupi

    A small Lake Tanganyika cichlid, Neolamprologous leleupi is similar to Julidochromis ornatus. These fish especially love to hide in and around caves, though they might interact with surrounding plants from time to time.

    Like Julidochromis, Neolamprogous will pair well with Java fern, Anubias, and Vallisneria.

    Why They Struggle

    Frontosa-Cichlid

    You may have heard the term ‘melting’. This is the word usually used to describe a newly added plant that suddenly dies. The plant often turns yellow or white and loses its leaves until the base of the stem rots (though the plant should be removed much before this!). There is a chance that the plant will come back and survive from this point, especially if you can propagate healthy pieces.

    There are a few reasons plants might melt or die when added to a new aquarium.

    • The water is hard and basic. Many aquarium plants prefer neutral water conditions around 7.0 pH. Unfortunately, Lake Malawi and Tanganyika have much higher pH and hardnesses (usually buffered by crushed coral or limestone), which many plants can’t withstand.
    • The fish in the aquarium are destructive. Almost any type of African, Central, or South American cichlid has the capability of being destructive by digging up rooted plants. This can prevent the plant from becoming established and growing.
    • The water temperature is too high. Many South American cichlids originate from warmer-than-average water temperatures above 80ยฐ F. Most aquarium plants have been acclimated to the 70ยฐ F range.

    Conclusion

    Cichlids are often kept only with each other, but that doesn’t mean you can’t add some biodiversity through plants. While the species of plant that can be kept is limited due to preferred cichlid water parameters and behavior, there are still a few that can quickly fill an aquarium. Some of these options include Anubias, Java fern, and Cryptocoryne.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Turtle Tank Setup (A 7 Step How To Guide)

    Turtle Tank Setup (A 7 Step How To Guide)

    Turtle tanks are a different challenge than fish tanks โ€” the filtration requirements, space needs, and habitat complexity are in a completely different category. I’ve helped set up turtle enclosures and know exactly where beginners go wrong. A proper setup makes the difference between a thriving animal and a stressed one.

    Are you setting up a new tank for a pet turtle? Creating the perfect turtle habitat is a little different from planning a fish tank, but don’t worry; the process is fun and easy once you understand their basic needs!

    In this guide, we’ll run through seven steps on Turtle Tank Setup that will help you create the best environment for your pet.

    Let’s dive in!

    Key Takeaways

    • Fish tanks make great habitats for small and medium-sized semi-aquatic turtles, but large plastic containers are also suitable.
    • Setting up the right turtle tank from the start can save you some headaches down the road, but there’s nothing wrong with choosing a small size tank if you have a very young turtle.
    • Pet turtles need heat, UVB light, and good filtration for long-term care.
    • Your turtle’s tank must include a dry area above the water surface where your pet can bask.

    Step 1: Selection

    Semi-aquatic turtles need both land and water areas in their habitat. There are many options when it comes to enclosures, although your turtle’s home should be able to hold water and provide enough space for your pet to explore.

    Tank Size

    The recommended turtle tank size varies depending on the size and species of your turtle, as well as the number of individuals you keep in the same tank. However, it’s important to provide enough room for your pet turtle to swim comfortably.

    You could start out with an enclosure as small as 20 gallons if you have a young turtle, but be prepared to upgrade to a much larger tank when your pet grows up.

    A basic rule of thumb when choosing a turtle tank is to provide about ten gallons for every inch of shell, so a four-inch turtle should a 40 gallon tank. However, you should definitely research the needs of the species you keep because some semi-aquatic turtles are more active than others.

    55 Gallon Aquarium
    55 Gallon Aquarium

    The 55-gallon aquarium is a great budget-friendly larger tank. It often goes on sale at chain pet stores.

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    Recommended Tank Sizes for Popular Turtle Species

    • Red-ear Slider: 50+ gallons1
    • Musk Turtles: 30+ gallons
    • Spotted turtles: 30+ gallons
    • Striped mud turtles: 30+ gallons
    • Diamondback terrapin: 55+ gallons

    Choose a Material

    There are various options when setting up a turtle habitat. With some modifications, a regular glass or acrylic fish tank works great for most species and will allow you to view your pet from the side as it swims and explores its home. However, you can also use a large plastic container if you’re happy to view your pets from above.

    Add a Cover

    Turtles don’t necessarily need a hood over their tank if the water level is kept well below the rim. However, you don’t want your pet to escape, so it’s best to use a cover that will keep your turtle in and other animals out. This is especially important if you have other pets like cats and dogs.

    A simple mesh screen works well and will not reduce the effect of your UV and heat lamps too much. However, you can use a regular aquarium hood if you have made modifications to allow for your pet’s special lighting needs.

    Step 2: Decorate

    Decorating your turtle tank can make it more visually appealing for yourself, and more interesting for your turtle. Unfortunately, adding too many decorations can make your tank more difficult to clean. Read on for more tips on turtle tank decorations.

    Substrate

    Substrate is not strictly necessary in a turtle tank. In fact, many turtle owners prefer bare-bottom aquariums because they are easier to clean and maintain. However, a layer of sand or river pebbles can create a more natural-looking environment and allow your turtle to dig and enjoy its environment.

    You can use pool filter sand or play sand to save a few dollars or choose an aquarium sand substrate with a color of your choice. Just remember to rinse your substrate well before adding it to your aquarium as new sand and gravel may cloud your water or introduce unwanted chemicals.

    Regular aquarium gravel is a bad idea because turtles can swallow small stones and suffer from impaction.

    Hardscape

    A few large rocks or pieces of driftwood can make your turtle tank look more natural and give your pets a place to explore. However, carefully arranged objects will make cleaning more difficult and can be a hazard for your pet, so keep things as simple as possible.

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    Aquarium hardscape materials are often pre-cleaned, but it’s always a good idea to wash your hardscape properly before adding it to your tank. Boiling driftwood before adding it to your tank will reduce the amount of tannins that leach into the water, although this step is not strictly necessary.

    Plants and Backgrounds

    Turtles tend to damage live plants, but aquarium-safe plastic plants are a great way to make your turtle tank setup look and feel a little more natural. Some turtles will chew on plastic plants, so be prepared to remove these decorations from the tank if necessary.

    A plastic or paper aquarium background with plants and other natural designs can also make your turtle tank a more attractive and enriching environment for your pet.

    Step 3: Create a Basking Area

    Turtles love to spend time in the water, but these aquatic reptiles also need a place to hang out above the surface. Set up a tank with a basking area (AKA Turtle Dock) above the water, and there are a few different options here.

    • Floating and Sinking Basking Areas

    Pet stores sell ornaments made for this purpose, although it’s important to choose an option that will match the depth of your tank. Floating or clip-on basking areas are also available, although they tend to be more suitable for juveniles and smaller aquatic turtle species.

    If you are pretty handy, you can also build your own basking area from PVC pipe and egg-crate material to suit your tank and turtle. Just be sure to use non-toxic materials that won’t rust, rot, or release harmful chemicals into the water.

    • Natural Materials

    You could also slope the substrate into the water or arrange rocks or driftwood on one side of the tank for a more natural look, although this adds a lot of weight while limiting the swimming space. If you do make a rock pile, make sure your basking area is packed very securely to avoid injuries to your pet or damage to a glass fish tank.

    • Above-tank Basking Areas

    Basking platforms and lofts that attach above the aquarium are also available for turtles, and they are usually made to fit standard aquarium sizes. These products are great because they provide plenty of space above the surface and allow you to use all of the water in an aquarium rather than filling it halfway.

    Step 4: Add and Heat the Water

    The water in your turtle tank should be maintained at a comfortable, constant temperature. Unless you keep your home warm and temperature controlled, the best way to do this is with a submersible heater.

    Selecting a Heater

    Regular aquarium heaters are dangerous for turtles because they can knock them over and crack the housing or chew the cable with their strong beaks.

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    You can protect your heater with a heater guard or purchase a special turtle heater with a plastic or titanium construction and cable guard. Alternatively, Choose a canister filter with a built-in heater and house your equipment outside of the tank.

    • Heater Sizes

    Aquarium heaters come in various sizes and wattages, so it’s important to select a model that will maintain the correct temperature in your tank size and indoor conditions. Heaters in the 75 to 200-watt range are typically used in small and medium-sized turtle tanks.

    The recommended tank size for each model will be stated on the heater’s packaging, but you should also factor in the ambient temperature of your home when choosing a heater size.

    Monitoring Water Temperature

    Most aquarium heaters can be set to automatically maintain the proper temperature for your turtle. However, the settings are not always completely accurate, so I recommend including a thermometer in your tank to monitor the water temperature. Just be sure to use something sturdy that your pet cannot damage!

    Step 5: Install a Filter

    Turtles can be messy creatures, so the water in their tank will become dirty and smelly pretty fast without good filtration and regular maintenance.

    Selecting a Filter

    There are many different filters available in the aquarium hobby but not all of them are recommended for turtle tanks. Read on to learn which filters work best for semi-aquatic turtles.

    • Canister Filter

    Canister filters are probably the best option because they are housed outside the aquarium. These filters can hold a lot of filter media without taking up any space in the tank, although they tend to be more expensive than other designs.

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    • Internal Power Filter

    An internal filter is also a good option for small turtle species, although you may need to protect the cable and any weak plastic parts. These filters are generally the most affordable option and a decent product will be very quiet.

    • Other Options

    Depending on the depth and layout of your turtle tank, you may also be able to use a hang-on-back filter, although these filters can be pretty noisy in tanks that aren’t filled to the rim.

    Air-powered sponge filters are generally unsuitable for turtle tanks because they take up a lot of space and are easily damaged.

    Water Quality and Maintenance

    You could cycle your aquarium for a few weeks before you add your turtle to its new home, although you can speed up the process by using some filter media from a mature tank.

    Fortunately, it isn’t absolutely necessary to cycle your turtle tank beforehand, but there are a few steps you should take to keep your pet healthy in the first few weeks.

    Bottled bacteria can be used to jump-start the cycle once you have added your turtle or you can perform regular large water changes to keep ammonia levels as low as possible while the nitrogen cycle establishes in your turtle tank.

    Remember to treat tap water with water conditioner before adding it to your aquarium. This will help to neutralize chemicals like chloramine that can be harmful to your pet.

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    Step 6: Add Lighting

    Lighting is one of the most important components of your turtle tank setup. A regular aquarium lamp will help to light up your tank but it won’t provide the heat and ultraviolet light that your turtle needs. Read on to learn more about your turtle’s special light requirements.

    Basking Light

    If you keep your turtle in an outdoor pond, it will get all the warmth and UVB rays it needs from natural direct sunlight, but an indoor turtle tank needs some special equipment. However, you will need a heat lamp and a UV basking lamp above your turtle’s basking area if you house your pet indoors.

    Read on to learn about the importance of ultraviolet light.

    • UVA and UVB Light

    Turtles need UVB light to produce vitamin D and absorb calcium, but most regular lamps and aquarium lights do not provide this important energy.

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    Zoo Med UVB Light

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    Unfortunately, glass filters out the UVB rays in natural sunlight so your pet can get very sick if kept indoors without this special light. However, UVA and UVB lights are easily available online or from your local pet store.

    • Heat Lamp

    Turtles are cold-blooded animals that can only remain healthy and active in a certain range of temperatures. In nature, turtles regularly bask in the sun to warm up. Each species has slightly different heat requirements, but most require temperatures between about 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit in their basking spot.

    Simply adjust the distance from between the lamp and the basking spot to dial in the temperature. The best way to get an accurate measure of the temperature on your turtle’s basking spot is to use a digital heat gun/thermometer.

    You can use separate heat and UVB lamps or select a single mercury vapor bulb. These powerful lamps are great ‘all in one’ options that produce both heat and UVB.

    General Lighting

    There are a few options for lighting your turtle tank. You may be happy with the amount of light produced by the UV and heat lamps, or you could include regular aquarium lighting or even submersible LED lighting to enhance your display.

    Light Timing

    It’s best to set your lights on a timer so that you don’t need to manually switch them on and off every day. 10 to 14 hours of UV light per day is recommended to simulate a natural daylight period for your pet.

    Step 7: Add Your Pet

    Congratulations, your turtle tank is nearly ready for your pet! The last step is to test the water temperature with your thermometer to make sure it isn’t too hot or cold. Once the water is at a comfortable temperature, you can introduce your turtle and watch it explore its new home.

    Additional Turtle Tank Setup Safety Tips

    • Avoid any objects or decorations that your turtle could get caught in or trapped under. Turtles can survive for a long time underwater but they need to return to the surface to breathe.
    • Measure water parameters regularly with an aquarium test kit. Ammonia and nitrites are not as dangerous for turtles as they are to fish but you should strive to maintain excellent water quality for your wet pet.
    • UVB lights should be replaced once or twice each year. You may not notice the difference, but they are only effective for a few months.
    • Use sturdy, turtle-safe filters and heaters. This is especially important for larger species.
    • Turtles are known to swallow gravel while feeding. Avoid gravel that is coarser than sand but smaller than your turtle’s head.

    FAQs

    What do turtles need in a tank?

    Turtles need a tank with enough room to swim comfortably while foraging and exploring. These animals also need a heater and a filter to keep their water warm and clean.

    One side of their enclosure must include a land area or basking platform where your pet can crawl out of the water and soak up some heat and UV rays. Install a UVA and UVB lamp above this area of the tank.

    Can turtles live in a tank full of water?

    Most turtles cannot survive long-term in a tank full of water. These reptiles also need a dry area above the water where they can spend time basking.

    What do you put on the bottom of a turtle tank?

    Turtle tanks do not need substrate, although a layer of sand and smooth rocks will create a more natural and comfortable environment for your pet. Avoid gravel that is small enough to eat since this can be very dangerous for your pet.

    How high should the water be in a turtle tank?

    Your turtle tank should include enough water and space for your pet to swim comfortably. As a general rule, the minimum depth should be at least twice the length of your turtle’s shell so that it can turn right-side-up if it flips over.

    Ideally, the tank should hold as much water as possible while also including driftwood or other objects that create areas of different depths.

    What is needed to set up a turtle tank?

    You will need the following items and equipment to set up your turtle tank.

    • Suitable tank with cover
    • Substrate and decorations
    • Turtle basking area
    • Light fixtures and lamps
    • Aquarium heater
    • Thermometer
    • Aquarium filter
    • Water test kit

    Final Thoughts

    So, that’s everything you need to know to set up a basic turtle tank! I hope this guide has answered all your questions and helped you create an amazing home for your new aquatic pet.

    Do you have a pet turtle? Share your experiences and tips in the comments below!

  • Cichlid Tank Mates: My Guide to What Actually Works After 25 Years

    Cichlid Tank Mates: My Guide to What Actually Works After 25 Years

    I’ve kept Mbunas alongside tiger barbs, rainbow sharks, and pictus catfishโ€”and made it work. But that required a properly sized tank, deliberate stocking order, and plenty of territory. Cichlid tank mates aren’t something you pick at random; success comes down to space, water parameters, and knowing your specific cichlid’s temperament. In this guide I break down the best tank mate options for African, Central American, and South American cichlids based on real experience.

    Key Takeaways

    • Contrary to popular belief, cichlids can have tank mates!
    • There are three main types of cichlid: African cichlids, Central American cichlids, and South American cichlids.
    • Aggression varies from species to species and tank mate pairings will greatly depend upon compatibility with other fish, along with water parameters and tank setup.
    • African cichlids have the least flexibility in terms of tank mates while South American species have some of the greatest.

    Understanding What Type You Have

    First, you need to determine what type of cichlid you have. All cichlids are capable of being aggressive, but some can be kept in community tank setups while others can only be kept with members of their own kind.

    Luckily, most aquarium stores accurately name their cichlids so you don’t need to wonder what kind you’re taking home. Here are some of the most common cichlids you’ll find.

    African Cichlids

    Yellow Lab

    African cichlids mainly originate from two freshwater lakes in Africa: Lake Malawi1 and Lake Tanganyika. Lake Malawi cichlids, including Mbuna cichlids, tend to be more colorful but more aggressive than Lake Tanganyika species.

    Lake Malawi cichlids include:

    • Electric yellow cichlid (Labidochromis caeruleus). These fish grow to 5-7 inches and are bright yellow with black-trimmed fins.
    • Demasoni cichlid (Pseudotropheus demasoni). Demasoni cichlids reach mature sizes between 3-5 inches and thrive in groups. They have alternating black and blue stripes.
    • Aulonocara spp. Commonly known as the Lake Malawi peacock cichlids, members of the Aulonocara genus come in reds, blues, and yellows, and grow to about 4-6 inches.

    Lake Tanganyika cichlids include:

    • Frontosa (Cyphotilapia frontosa). Frontosa cichlids are easily recognized by their alternating black and blue stripes and prominent foreheads. They grow to about 8-10 inches.
    • Lemon cichlid (Neolamprologus leleupi). These fish are bright yellow and grow to about 5 inches in length.
    • Golden Julie cichlid (Julidochromis ornatus). The golden Julie stays between 3-4 inches at mature size and features a mottled black, yellow, and white pattern.

    Other popular African cichlids include:

    • Kribensis (Pelvicachromis pulcher)
    • Jewel Cichlid (Hemichromis bimaculatus)
    • African Butterfly Cichlid (Anomalochromis thomasi)

    Central and South American Cichlids

    Cichlids are found throughout Central and South America, with many species originating from the Amazon River. Central American species are considered to be more aggressive than their South American counterparts, but this will vary from species to species.

    Convict-Cichlid

    In comparison to African cichlids, these fish are much less aggressive. In fact, some can be kept in a community tank setup given the right environment.

    Here are some of the most popular Central American cichlids:

    • Red devil (Amphilophus labiatus). The red devil is named after its pale-red coloration and aggressive temperament. These fish reach a maximum size of about a foot.
    • Convict cichlid (Amatitlania nigrofasciata). Growing to 3-5 inches, the convict cichlid is named after its alternating black and white stripes.
    • Jack Dempsey (Rocio octofasciata). The Jack Dempsey reaches mature size at about 10 inches in length. These fish have bluish-green coloration with iridescent spots.

    South American cichlids are some of the recognizable fish in the aquarium hobby, like the freshwater angelfish, though most keepers don’t even know that they’re cichlids! Here’s a list of a few you might recognize:

    • Green terror (Andinoacara rivulatus). A beautiful fish, the green terror is a very aggressive cichlid. These fish are electric blue, yellow, and orange, and can grow up to a foot in length.
    • Ram cichlid (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi). One of the most community-friendly cichlids, the ram cichlid can be easily bred in the home aquarium. These blue, yellow, and red fish stay relatively small, usually under 4 inches.
    • Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare). An odd-looking cichlid, the freshwater angelfish is a type of South American cichlid! Angels come in a variety of natural blacks, browns, and silvers, and can reach a height of 12 inches.
    • Discus (Symphysodon spp.). Considered to be one of the most challenging cichlid tank setups to maintain, discus come in all colors. They grow to be about 6-10 inches and can be bred in the home aquarium.
    • Severum (Heros severus/Heros efasciatus). Another relatively peaceful fish, the severum comes in a variety of colors, ranging from very bright to dull. They reach mature size between 6-8 inches.

    Best Tank Mates

    As you can see, there are many different species of cichlid! Even though they’re all related to the Cichlidae family, most of these fish cannot be kept with one another. Instead, cichlid tank mates are very limited. In most cases, species can only be kept with their own species. In some of the more niche African cichlid communities, fish can only be kept with other fish from their exact natural habitat.

    When picking cichlid tank mates, aggression needs to be considered first, but tank size and setup need to be considered as well. For example, African cichlids originate from much more basic and harder water parameters than the low acidity and softness found throughout South America. While cichlids aren’t overly active fish, they need a lot of space to create territories.

    This is the single most important rule for cichlid tank mates: don’t attempt it in a small tank. A 55-gallon is the minimum for most African cichlid setups, and even then stocking order is critical. The bigger the tank, the more territory gets distributed and the less any one fish dominates. Combinations that fall apart in a 55-gallon often work fine in a 75 or 90-gallon.

    The biggest mistake I see is hobbyists ignoring water parameter differences. African cichlids need hard, alkaline water. South American community fish like tetras and corydoras prefer soft, acidic conditions. Mix those together and even if the aggression doesn’t kill anything, the wrong parameters will stress every fish in the tank. Know your cichlid’s water chemistry requirements before picking any tank mate.

    With all this considered, here are some of the best tank mates for African, Central American, and South American cichlids.

    African Cichlids

    There are many species of cichlid across the continent of Africa. In most cases, fish that originate from the same region can be kept together. Even then, there is room for aggression.

    Let’s first consider the best tank mates for Lake Malawi species.

    Lake Malawi tank mates

    Lake Malawi African cichlids are considered to be more aggressive than Lake Tanganyika species, so tank mate pairing and ordering are especially important.

    Mbuna

    Mbuna species. Members of the Labidochromis, Pseudotropheus, and Melanochromis genera do best when kept together. These are colorful fish that can be mixed and matched in a 55 gallon aquarium. It is recommended to keep about 10 individuals per 55 gallon, paying extra attention to the stocking order.

    Mbuna cichlids need plenty of rock in their aquarium to set up territories. The most aggressive species should be added last to prevent competition.

    From personal experience: tiger barbs, rainbow sharks, and pictus catfish can all hold their own in a well-set-up Mbuna tank. Tiger barbs are fast and assertive enough to avoid becoming targets. Rainbow sharks are naturally territorialโ€”they stake out their own section and cichlids tend to respect it. Pictus catfish are quick, nocturnal, and generally left alone. None of these are guaranteed, but with a large tank and plenty of rockwork, these combinations can work.

    Aulonocara species. Peacocks are considered to be less aggressive than Mbuna species, but they’re still aggressive cichlids. In most cases, they can’t withstand the aggression of Mbunas, making these two species incompatible tank mates. Instead, peacock cichlids can be kept with each other, and more docile haps (Haplochormis spp.).

    These fish also depend on the rockwork to form territories, so it’s important to incorporate plenty of caves and hiding spots for the fish. Aulonocara and Haplochormis have comparable aggression levels, but this may vary between specific species. Fish may be added together if they’re the same size, or be added later on according to size.

    Lake Tanganyika tank mates

    While Lake Tanganyika African cichlids are generally less aggressive than those from Lake Malawi, special attention is still needed to create successful tank mate pairings.

    Shell-dwellers. There are a few different species of shell-dweller, including those from the Neolamprologus and Lamprologus genera. These freshwater fish defend their shell territories at the bottom of the tank, so tank mates should stay in the upper portions of the tank. Aggression can vary from species to species, but some tank mate options include:

    • Sardine cichlid (Cyprichromis leptosoma)
    • Julidochromis spp.
    • Neolamprologus brichardi
    Frontosa-Cichlid

    Frontosas. These are some of the more peaceful fish on this African cichlid list, but they’re still capable of harassing and eating other fish. Frontosas do well in a species-only aquarium but can be kept with a few other Lake Tanganyika species, like the lemon cichlid or Judiochromis transcriptus. Some cichlid enthusiasts have even had luck keeping frontosas with shell-dwellers if the tank is set up with both species in mind.

    Julidochromis spp.. Species from this genera can be kept with a few different African cichlids. Along with shell-dwellers and frontosas, Julidochromis could potentially be paired with sardine cichlids and Neolamprologus species.

    Other African cichlid tank mates

    In general, African cichlids should only be kept with related species. These are some of the most aggressive fish available in the hobby, and any fish tank mate pairing can fail. Because of this, hobbyists usually only recommend Synodontis catfish for these aggressive cichlid species.

    Synodontis catfish (Synodontis spp.).These are nocturnal fish, which can help decrease the possibility of aggression. Some species only grow to be 4 inches, so they should not be kept with larger cichlids. They originate from Lake Tanganyika and do best with other endemic species, like frontosas and members of both Neolamprologus and Julidochromis. Popular species include S. lucipinnis, S. angelicus, and S. eupterus.

    Synodontis-Catfish

    Given a large tank with plenty of hiding spots, Syndontis have also been successfully kept with Mbunas and Aulonocara peacocks.

    Synodontis and pictus catfish are two of my personal top picks for African cichlid tanks. Both are fast, tough, and occupy different parts of the water column than most cichlidsโ€”exactly what you want. They’re not pushovers, and that matters in an African cichlid setup.

    Rainbowfish (Melanotaeniidae family). Some hobbyists add rainbowfish, like Boesemani (Melanotaenia boesemani), to their African cichlid tank setups. These smaller, fast-moving fish act as dither fish which can help diffuse overall aggression.

    Central and South American Cichlids

    If you want a little more wiggle room for cichlid tank mates, Central and South American species are generally much more peaceful than their African counterparts. For some of these cichlids, it’s still recommended to only keep other species from Central and South America.

    Aggressive tank mates

    Central and South American cichlids can greatly vary in size and aggression. Species like red devils and green terrors are large freshwater fish. Even if a given species is not aggressive, they will readily eat smaller fish.

    Here are some of the best tank mates for large and/or aggressive Central and South American cichlids:

    Giant gouramis (Osphronemus goramy). Giant gouramis need a giant tank. They reach impressive sizes and can become increasingly aggressive as they grow. While native to Southeast Asia, these fish can be kept in a cichlid tank with oscars, severums, and geophagus.

    Catfish. Most species of catfish can be kept with both peaceful and aggressive cichlids. An aggressive Central and South American cichlid tank can house Synodontis catfish, Raphael catfish (Platydoras armatulus), Redtail catfish (Phractocephalus hemioliopterus), and Pictus catfish (Pimelodus pictus).

    Keep in mind that some catfish, like the redtail catfish, can grow to extreme sizes.

    Arowana (Osteoglossidae family). Arowanas are one of the largest fish available in the aquarium trade, but they’re relatively delicate. It is not unheard of for especially aggressive species to chase after and attack arowana. Unfortunately, arowanas can quickly succumb to injury. In return, large arowanas also have the potential to eat smaller, calmer cichlids. In some cases, this pairing can work.

    Arowana-Fish

    Other cichlids. The best cichlid pairings are ones that stay true to what you would find in their natural environment. Pick species that naturally occur in the same regions as your desired cichlid. Set up the tank so that each fish has its niche within that space. While this still isn’t guaranteed to work, it’s one of the best ways to approach any cichlid aquarium setup.

    Community tank mates

    It’s always risky adding more peaceful fish to a cichlid tank, but some hobbyists have made it work. These pairings will largely depend on the temperament of your freshwater fish, but success can be increased by providing plenty of hiding spots and paying close attention to interactions. Luckily, these species are usually much more peaceful than African cichlids, so there are some choices!

    Rainbowfish

    Here are some common community tank species that might fit in a Central or South American cichlid setup. Note any cichlid larger than 8 inches may consume them:

    Giant danios (Devario aequipinnatus). Giant danios are possible tank mates for cichlids: they’re big, fast, and stay at the top of the water, away from predators. This doesn’t make them an instant success, however. Many hobbyists have found that their giant danio numbers start to dwindle the longer they stay in the tank. Make sure to watch out for aggression and be ready to rehome fish if necessary.

    Rainbowfish. Species like the Boesemani rainbowfish (Melanotaenia boesemani), millennium rainbowfish (Glossolepis pseudoincisus), and the turquoise rainbowfish (Melanotaenia lacustris) have been known to make good tank mates for certain cichlids. Rainbows need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more but are generally capable of escaping an attacking cichlid.

    Swordtails (Xiphophorus hellerii). If you have cichlids that mind their own business, then swordtails could help bring some color and movement to the top of the aquarium. These fish are colorful and busy, but most importantly, they’re prolific. This is especially helpful as even if a cichlid goes after adults or eats the majority of fry, chances are that a swordtail population will be able to sustain itself.

    Congo tetras (Phenacogrammus interruptus). Another similar option is the Congo tetra. These are moderately-sized schooling fish, just big enough to hold their own against a more territorial cichlid. Congo tetras are one of the few species of tetra that can be housed with cichlids, as anything smaller could be bullied or eaten.

    Peaceful Cichlid Tank Mates

    Some cichlids simply get along with fish while others are actually peaceful species. So much so that some hobbyists don’t even realize they’re cichlids, like freshwater angelfish! While African cichlids are still too aggressive to make this list, there are plenty of other Central and South American species that can successfully be added to a community tank.

    Rams

    The ram cichlid is a small South American species that can be kept and bred within a community tank setup. These fish only grow to about 4 inches, which means that they can be kept with both bigger and smaller species.

    Some compatible ram cichlid tank mates include:

    It’s important to note that ram cichlids prefer slightly higher water temperatures than normal, in the 78 to 85ยฐ F range. Tank mates should be able to adapt to these conditions without any ill effects.

    Angelfish

    Zebra-Angelfish

    Freshwater angelfish are arguably the most popular species of cichlid, though many hobbyists don’t even realize that they’re cichlids. These fish require some special care when choosing tank mates as they prefer slow-moving water conditions and cannot tolerate having their fins nipped.

    These are some options to consider:

    • Other angelfish
    • Mollies
    • Rainbowfish
    • Corydoras catfish
    • Molly Fish
    • Certain tetras (Cardinal tetras, Rummynose tetras)

    Discus

    Red-Turquoise-Discus

    Discus are one of the more challenging species of aquarium fish to keep due to their need for near-pristine water parameters and higher water temperature ranges. Because of this, many hobbyists choose to keep discus in setups by themselves, but some have also had luck keeping them in community tanks.

    Some suitable tank mates might be:

    Oscars

    Albino-Oscar

    Oscars can be aggressive, but they don’t mean to be. Instead, these are gentle giants that need plenty of space for themselves and might mistake smaller fish for a meal. Given the right setup, they are very easy to care for and can be kept with a variety of species, including:

    • Silver dollars
    • Clown loaches
    • Arowanas
    • Other cichlids (Green terror, Jack Dempsey, Severums)
    • Other oscars

    Severums

    Severum-Cichlid-Fish

    Severums are another relatively peaceful species of cichlid. These are large fish, growing to nearly 10 inches at adult size, but they can bring a lot of color and interest to a semi-aggressive community tank. They need a large tank, but can be kept with an assortment of:

    • Silver dollars
    • Denison barbs
    • Pearl gouramis
    • Oscars
    • Other severums

    FAQS

    What kind of fish can be put with cichlids?

    African cichlids have limited tank mates while Central and South American species can be kept with a bigger assortment. In general, African cichlids should only be kept with species that originate from the same regions. Central and South American species have greater flexibility for being mixed with each other and with other aquarium species.

    Can you put a cichlid in a community tank?

    Yes! Some cichlids can be kept in a community aquarium setting, like rams, angelfish, and discus. This means that they can be kept with more familiar tetras, cory catfish, and livebearers. However, more aggressive types, like African cichlids, should only be kept with each other.

    Do cichlids eat other fish?

    Yes, cichlids, especially large ones, can eat other fish. This isn’t entirely on purpose for some species, like the oscar, where curiosity gets the best of them. It is always safe to assume that if a fish can fit in another fish’s mouth, they could potentially become lunch.

    African cichlids and more aggressive South American cichlids are more likely to chase and attack fish than they are to mistakingly eat them.

    Can cichlids live with goldfish?

    No! Cichlids can never live with goldfish. Goldfish are coldwater fish while cichlids prefer tropical and above tropical water temperature conditions. Many African cichlid species also prefer harder and more basic water conditions, which is incompatible with goldfish. Lastly, goldfish are gentle and relaxed while cichlids are active and territorial!

    Conclusion

    When setting up a cichlid tank, you need a plan. These are aggressive fish that have special considerations regarding water parameters, tank setup, and aggression. Tank mates will largely revolve around the type of cichlid you choose to keep. An African cichlid tank might only leave room for related species but an angelfish aquarium might allow space for a variety of community species.

    Keep in mind that while one pairing works for another hobbyist it might not always work for you. Always be ready to rehome fish if necessary.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Why Angelfish and Guppies Are a Deadly Combo: What I’ve Seen After 25 Years

    Why Angelfish and Guppies Are a Deadly Combo: What I’ve Seen After 25 Years

    Angelfish and guppies look like an easy pairing on paperโ€”both are tropical, both are popular, and their water parameters overlap enough that it seems to make sense. But I’ve seen this combination go wrong many times. Once angelfish start breeding, they become a completely different fish. The guppies that were swimming around unbothered suddenly become targetsโ€”and often end up as a meal. In this article I explain exactly why these two species don’t mix, and what to keep with your angels instead.

    Key Takeaways

    • Angelfish and guppies are two beginner species that are incompatible with each other.
    • Guppies like active, neutral conditions while angelfish thrive in stagnant, acidic environments.
    • Angelfish can grow to moderate sizes and will eat smaller fish and fry.
    • Some of the best tank mates for angelfish are tetras, rainbowfish, and other cichlids.

    Intro To Angelfish

    Before we can understand why guppies are incompatible with angelfish, we need to understand angel requirements on their own. These fish have been in the aquarium hobby for a long time, and the understanding of their care has changed throughout the decades.

    Zebra-Angelfish

    Angelfish are a type of tropical cichlid. The most common species to find in the aquarium hobby is Pterophyllum scalare, but you may find others available in more specialized fish stores. These fish originate from the Amazon River system throughout South America, specifically from parts of Brazil, Colombia, and Peru. They are found in slow-moving waters, dense with vegetation. They prefer more acidic conditions, closer to blackwater environments.

    Luckily, most angelfish available for sale have been commercially bred, which led to more ethical sourcing and better-controlled health. There are also many varieties of angelfish available, but most display plain colors of browns, blacks, and silvers. At adult size, they can grow to be 6 inches long and 8 inches tall. Some individuals even grow to an impressive 1 foot in height!

    Tank Setup

    There has always been a lot of discussion surrounding angelfish tank size. They aren’t overly active fish, but they can grow to considerable sizes and exhibit some aggressive behavior. Because of this, the current recommendation is a 40 gallon for keeping them with multiple angels or other fish species, and a 20 gallon for a pair. Because of their height, they are one of the few fish that do better in a tall aquarium than a long one.

    This aquarium should have minimal water flow with plenty of plants and organics that lower the water pH.

    Behavior

    As a cichlid, these fish are mildly aggressive. They are not fast swimmers and will stick to the middle and upper portions of the water column. Male angels are likely to establish territories throughout the tank, especially during breeding periods. Females can be just as aggressive as males in some cases.

    This is the part most people don’t anticipate. An angelfish that ignored guppies for months can turn predatory the moment it starts breeding. I’ve seen it happenโ€”guppies that coexisted fine suddenly start disappearing once the angels pair off and claim territory. Breeding flips a switch in them, and small, fast-moving fish like guppies become threats to be chased or food to be eaten.

    As slow swimmers, they are also slow eaters. This behavior is especially important to keep in mind when picking other tank mates as a shy angel could be outcompeted.

    One last thing to consider is that, while semi-aggressive fish, angelfish can be skittish. Because of this, many hobbyists keep their angelfish aquariums dimly lit and stained with tannins.

    Intro to Guppies

    A guppy fish is likely to be one of the first tropical fish you ever get. These are small, hardy fish that bring a ton of color and excitement to the aquarium. They’re very forgiving of incorrect water parameters and will continue to breed regardless. All this, in addition to their wide availability and affordable price, make them a perfect beginner fish1.

    Blue Grass Guppy

    That’s the problem, though: guppy fish are perfect beginner fish. What happens when you want to move on to more advanced species, like the angelfish? Can you keep guppies and angels in the same tank?

    In most cases, guppy fish cannot be safely kept with angelfish. It might be hard to understand why, as these fish have many overlapping requirements, but we’ll see what makes these two fish species incompatible in the long run.

    Mature Size

    Guppy fish are small fish with males staying under 1.5 inches and females maxing out at around 2.5 inches. While this makes it so that a lot can be kept in a little, these tiny fish also make an enticing snack for larger angelfish.

    Though unlikely, any fish is capable of eating something that can fit in their mouths. Small guppies, as well as guppy fry, are a quick and easy snack for a mature angelfish.

    Tank Setup

    Guppies can pretty much be kept in any aquarium setup imaginable, but the same cannot be said for angels. As mentioned before, angelfish prefer near-blackwater conditions in dim lighting conditions. While the two species enjoy an abundance of live plants, their compatibility in terms of tank setup ends there.

    Guppy fish are often kept in neutral water parameters, with a pH near 7.0. While they can be acclimated to more acidic conditions, it’s best to keep fish close to their original environments. This is also true for the amount of water flow present in the fish tank. Guppies enjoy swimming against a current, whereas angels will be pushed into the corner by nearly any trace of water movement.

    Another important aspect to keep in mind is that guppies are prolific breeders. The more space and resources they have, the more they will reproduce. In general, guppy fish can comfortably live in a 10 gallon aquarium. At one point or another, adult and/or baby guppies will need to be removed to maintain a healthy balance in the aquarium.

    Aqueon 10 Gallon Tank
    Aqueon 10 Gallon Tank

    Your standard 10 gallon tank. Goes on sale at local Petcos for cheap

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    If placed in a very large tank, removing excess guppy fry can be difficult, even though your angelfish will likely help maintain populations. As we’ll see, an increase in guppies can lead to numerous problems for the angels in regard to opposing behaviors.

    Behavior

    On paper, it would seem that you could keep guppies and angelfish together. But when kept together in the same aquarium, these fish couldn’t be any more different.

    Angelfish might as well have the exact opposite behavior as guppies. Angels are slow-moving and relatively reserved. Guppies are front-and-center and constantly moving! While this pairing of behaviors might work for other fish species, it does not work for these.

    Green-Guppy

    Guppies are simply too overbearing for angels. They stay in the same portions of the aquarium as angels and can stress angelfish out. Keep in mind that just because your angelfish is supposed to be semi-aggressive does not mean that you can’t get a shy one. This is especially true during feeding times when angelfish like to take their time and eat while guppies go into a frenzy. This incompatibility can lead to overly aggressive or starved angels.

    Angelfish are a much more reserved, observational fish. I’ve watched angels in high-activity tanks stop coming to the surface to eat and start retreating into corners. An angelfish that stops eating is already in trouble. The constant movement and surface activity of guppies is genuinely stressful for a fish that prefers slow, dimly lit, plant-heavy conditions.

    While guppies aren’t aggressive fish, they have been known to be fin nippers. If an angelfish spends a significant amount of time in the upper water column, they may start to get bullied by the other guppies. This can be damaging as angelfish are already prone to snagging their extended finnage and developing fin rot. Similarly, an aggressive angel might chase and nip at pesky guppies that invade their territory.

    While it might seem like guppies and angelfish can go in the same tank, the differences in their behaviors ultimately make them incompatible.

    Why Angelfish and Guppies Don’t Work

    Can you put guppies and angelfish together? No.

    While these fish are two of the most popular fish species available, they cannot be kept in the same aquarium. This is because:

    1. Guppies are small, peaceful fish that can quickly become food for a larger angel. Guppy fry will also be regularly consumed by hungry angelfish.
    2. Angelfish prefer water parameters that resemble their natural habitat. This is slow-moving water with low pH. Guppy fish can be acclimated to a lower pH, but prefer a moving water current with near-neutral water quality. Angelfish also prefer dim settings while guppies shine under bright lights.
    3. Guppies can quickly overrun a larger fish tank as they are prolific breeders. A healthy balance between guppies and angels may be difficult to maintain while keeping parameters in check.
    4. Guppy fish and angelfish have opposite behaviors. Angels are large semi-aggressive fish that can bully smaller fish, or be bullied if the individual is shy. This is especially true during feeding times when guppies are quick to eat.

    Better Alternatives

    Though guppies and angelfish might not work together, there are plenty of ways to still use both of these species in their own respective community tank setup.

    Some of the best guppy fish tank mates include:

    Depending on the individual personality of your angel, you may be able to set up a community aquarium. If you have an angelfish that shows territorial behavior, then you may need to include some of the more aggressive species. Unfortunately, there is no way to tell how angelfish will react to new fish, so you might need to rehome tank mates if things don’t work out. To help avoid this, it’s recommended to add other fish to the tank before adding the angels.

    From my experience, rainbowfish and Congo tetras are two of the best alternativesโ€”both are large enough that angels won’t see them as prey, and both are active without being overbearing. For more advanced aquarists, discus are an excellent pairing with angelfish; they share the same slow-water, warm, slightly acidic preferences and have a similar calm temperament. Just be prepared for the water quality demands discus require.

    Some community tank mate options for angelfish include:

    If you have angels that display territorial behavior, then you might consider these tank mates instead:

    In order to keep a group of angelfish together indefinitely, fish should be added to the aquarium at the same time. At least 5 or more can comfortably be kept in a mid-size tank as long as there is a balance of males and females.

    Can different species of angelfish be kept together in the same tank?

    As mentioned before, there are a couple of different species of angelfish available in the aquarium hobby. One of these includes the relatively rare–and expensive–altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum).

    For the most part, hobbyists agree that these two species can be tank mates as long as a large tank is allowed. It is also recommended to add the two species together to help diffuse any possible aggression. A rehoming plan should be used in case the pairing doesn’t work out.

    Which fish can be kept with angelfish?

    Angelfish can be kept with certain tetras, gouramis, severums, or acaras. They cannot be kept with guppies and generally don’t do well with any species of livebearer.

    What fish are compatible with guppies?

    Angelfish can be kept in pairs with each other, in a community tank setup, or in a semi-aggressive setup. Depending on the plan you have for your tank, you may want to try breeding angels. Otherwise, your angel’s personality will decide whether you keep a community aquarium or a more predatory fish setup.

    How many angel fish should be kept together?

    Angelfish can be kept in pairs of two or in small groups of 5 or more. This will be determined by the size of your aquarium and the temperament of your fish.

    Do angelfish eat other fish?

    Angelfish have small mouths, but they will likely try to eat smaller tank mates. They will especially love trying to catch baby guppies!

    Can you put angelfish with mollies?

    While you can’t really keep guppies and angelfish together, do mollies work?

    Many of the same concerns arise with mollies as when keeping angelfish with guppies: natural habitat differences, and opposing behaviors. However, mollies are considerably bigger than guppies and slightly less active. Full-grown angelfish will still see smaller mollies as snacks, but the two species are slightly more likely to be compatible tank mates in the long run.

    Conclusion

    Guppies and angelfish are two of the most popular beginner fish species available, but unfortunately, they do not make good tank mates. There are simply too many differences between preferred water conditions and behaviors that make it likely for either your angels or guppies to get hurt in the process. Depending on the personality of your angelfish, other suitable tank mates might be tetras, gouramis, corydoras, or other cichlids.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 7 Best Turtles for Aquariums: My Picks After Keeping Sliders

    7 Best Turtles for Aquariums: My Picks After Keeping Sliders

    I’ve kept red-eared sliders, and I’ll tell you upfront: aquarium turtles are a bigger commitment than most people expect. They live for decades, grow surprisingly large, and produce more waste than their size suggests. But they’re also some of the most interactive and personable animals you can keepโ€”rewarding in a way that fish simply can’t replicate. In this guide I cover 7 of the best aquarium turtle species and give you the honest care information you need before bringing one home.

    Key Takeaways

    • There are many different types of freshwater turtles in the aquarium trade, and each has its own unique needs and preferences
    • Captive-bred turtles can make fascinating pets, although they do not like to be touched or handled
    • Aquariums can make excellent turtle habitats, although these amphibious reptiles require some dry land in their tank where they can bask
    • Your turtle’s tank must include a basking platform or secure floating log where your pet can crawl out to warm up
    • Turtles also need a special UV bulb if kept indoors. This essential requirement helps turtles make vitamin D and absorb calcium.

    7 Best Turtles For Aquariums

    1. Red Ear Slider

    Red Eared Slider
    • Scientific name: Trachemys scripta elegans
    • Care level: Intermediate (Suitable for beginners)
    • Temperament: Calm and friendly but does not enjoy being handled
    • Minimum tank size: 50 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: Up to 40 years in captivity
    • Recommended temperatures: 70-85ยฐF ambient, 85-90ยฐF basking spot, 75-85ยฐF water

    The red-ear slider is the first species on my list because these colorful reptiles are one of the most popular and attractive pet turtle species in the world! These turtles are suitable for beginners, although they need regular care and water quality maintenance to stay healthy.

    This species is easily available from pet stores, but you can often find mature specimens up for adoption too. These large and colorful reptiles are naturally beautiful, although albinos and various other awesome morphs are available from breeders.

    Keeping these wonderful animals is a long-term commitment since they can live for over 30 years. Red-eared sliders can reach 12 inches when full-grown, so they need an enclosure of at least 50 gallons for long-term care.

    The red-eared slider is my personal top pick, but I want to be upfront: they require significant planning. A juvenile slider looks manageable in a small tank, but within a few years you’re looking at a 12-inch reptile needing 75โ€“100 gallons of clean water, a powerful canister filter, and a proper basking setup. Sliders that are improperly housed are among the most frequently rehomed turtles in the hobby. Have a realistic plan for the adult setup before you buy the juvenile.

    2. Striped Mud

    Striped-Mud-Turtle
    • Scientific name: Kinosternon baurii
    • Care level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: May scratch and bite, should not be handled
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: Up to 50 years
    • Recommended temperatures: 80-85ยฐF ambient, 87-92ยฐF basking spot, 75-80ยฐF water

    The striped mud turtle is a small species that grows a shell length of just 3.5-4.5 inches. Despite their size, these miniature creatures can live for half a century with good care!

    These turtles are characterized by three pale stripes on their oval shell, although these markings may fade as the animal matures. They are omnivorous turtles that feed on invertebrates and plant material in the wild.

    Striped mud turtles can be kept in a smaller tank than the red-eared slider, although they require good water quality, UVB bulbs, and a suitable basking area just like other species.

    3. Spotted

    Spotted-Turtle
    • Scientific name: Clemmys guttata
    • Care level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Alert and active but does not enjoy handling
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: Up to 50 years
    • Recommended temperatures: 80-85ยฐF ambient, 95ยฐF basking spot, 70-75ยฐF water

    The spotted turtle is an attractive North American species that grows to about 5 inches or so. These turtles are identified by their dark overall coloration and yellow spots on the head and upper shell.

    Spotted turtles will eat some plant matter, although they are mostly carnivorous. Captive specimens will thrive on quality commercial pellets supplemented with meaty foods like worms and crickets.

    These turtles are not the best swimmers, so keep their water shallow enough for them to breathe at the surface while standing and provide plenty of dry land where they can hang out and bask.

    4. Maps

    Missippi Map
    • Scientific name: Graptemys spp.
    • Care level: Intermediate-advanced
    • Temperament: Naturally active but shy around people
    • Minimum tank size: Species dependent. Large species may require over 100 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: Can live for over 30 years
    • Recommended temperatures: 75-85ยฐF ambient, 90-95ยฐF basking spot, 70-80ยฐF water

    Map turtles are some of the most beautiful semi-aquatic turtles available in their pet trade. There are many species, and some have interesting patterns on their skin and shells and textured scales on their upper shells (carapaces) that make them excellent display animals.

    However, map turtles require very clean living conditions and a varied diet. They are not recommended for beginners, although dedicated turtle keepers with moderate experience should have no problems.

    5. Musk

    Stinkpot Musk
    • Scientific name: Sternotherus odoratus
    • Care level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: May scratch and bite. These turtles should not be handled
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: May live for over 60 years
    • Recommended temperatures: 83-86ยฐF ambient, about 90ยฐF basking spot, 72-78ยฐF water

    Common musk turtles (also known as stinkpots) get their name from the smelly odor they produce when frightened, although captive-bred pets are less likely to react this way once they get used to you.

    These small aquatic turtles grow to about 4 inches and spend most of their time in the water. However, they require a dry basking spot just like the other species in this list.

    Musk turtles are suitable for beginners and their small enclosure requirements make them a popular choice for people with limited space.

    6. Diamondback Terrapins

    • Scientific name: Malaclemys terrapin
    • Care level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful but may bite if handled
    • Minimum tank size: 55-75 gallons
    • Potential lifespan: Up to 40 years
    • Recommended temperatures: 80-85ยฐF ambient, about 90ยฐF basking spot, 75-78ยฐF water

    Diamondback terrapins are the only species on this list that aren’t naturally found in freshwater habitats. These colorful reptiles are at home in brackish water systems along the East and Gulf coasts of North America. While captive-bred specimens are often kept in freshwater, you will need to increase the salinity to create conditions that match their natural habitat.

    This is a medium-sized species and females can reach a shell length of about 9 inches. In common with many other turtle species, the males are much smaller, maxing out at a shell length of about 5 inches.

    Diamondback terrapins are carnivorous reptiles that feed on small animals like snails. However, captive specimens do well on commercially sold turtle foods like floating sticks.

    7. Eastern Box Turtle

    • Scientific name: Terrapene carolina carolina
    • Care level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Generally docile but males can be aggressive toward each other
    • Minimum enclosure size: Approximately 15 square feet
    • Potential lifespan: May live for over 50 years
    • Temperature requirements: 65-75ยฐF ambient, 80-90ยฐF basking spot

    Box turtles are unique land-dwelling reptiles with a high, dome-shaped shell that can be closed off with a special hinge on the lower shell (plastron). There are several species of box turtles in North America, although the Eastern box turtle is one of the more commonly available captive-bred pet species.

    These colorful reptiles are not suitable for aquariums due to their mostly terrestrial nature, although they love soaking in water and they can swim and even submerge themselves. They should be kept in large outdoor enclosures, preferably planted with vegetation that will provide shade and shelter. However, they can also be kept in large indoor terrariums if you manage the temperature and provide UV lighting.

    Before You Pick One

    There are many different turtle species available in the hobby, so choosing the perfect species can be tough if you’re just getting started. Here are four quick tips for choosing your first turtle.

    • A Long-term Commitment

    Some turtles can live for over 50 years, and many of them outlive their owners. Many turtles that are bought as juveniles will outlive their first owners, so consider buying an adult or adopting a pet from someone who can no longer care for it.

    • Insist on Captive-bred

    Your turtle’s health should be your first priority, so choose healthy, captive-bred animals and never buy animals that were taken from the wild. I recommend choosing a species that is easily available and easy to care for.

    • Turtle Tank Size

    You’ll notice that each species has a different minimum tank size, although your turtle will definitely appreciate a larger habitat. Some turtles need very large enclosures when they reach adult size, so factor this in when choosing your pet.

    • Plan Ahead

    It’s important to consider your new turtle’s care requirements and create a suitable habitat before you bring it home – it will be a whole lot less stressful for you and your pet!

    Care – The Basics

    Enclosure size

    Freshwater turtles can be kept in aquariums, large plastic containers, or even indoor ponds. The size of their habitat will depend on the size of the species, although your pet will appreciate plenty of room to explore. Small species like mud and musk turtles can be kept in enclosures as small as 30 gallons, while larger types may need enclosures of at least 5 feet long and wide. A 55 gallon tank is usually a good start for many of the turtles on this list.

    55 Gallon Aquarium
    55 Gallon Aquarium

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    Basking Spot

    Most freshwater turtles leave the water regularly to bask in the sun. They do this to warm their bodies and absorb Ultraviolet rays. A turtle tank must include a dry area where your pet can hang out above the water line.

    A floating shelf above the water is a great option as it does not take up any swimming space. However, the shelf must be secured below your tank lighting and be sturdy enough for your pet to climb on and off. You can see that egg crate plastic and acrylic can work for a turtle ramp.

    You can also use a large piece of driftwood or rocks to create a more natural look, although this can take up a lot of space in your turtle’s tank.

    Layout

    Fishkeepers enjoy creating beautiful underwater scenes in their aquariums, but experienced turtle keepers know to keep things simple. A tank without substrate, decorations, and plants is much easier to clean and maintain.

    Care and Maintenance

    Maintaining Water Quality

    Turtles are surprisingly messy eaters and they produce plenty of waste. You will need good filtration to keep their habitat clean and maintain healthy water quality. Internal power filters and canister filters work well for turtles. Canister filters are usually preferred given the amount of waste a turtle can produce.

    This is where most beginners go wrong. Turtles are significantly messier than fishโ€”they eat messily, defecate in the water, and can overwhelm a standard aquarium filter rated for fish their tank size. I recommend running a canister filter rated for at least double your actual tank volume. And don’t underestimate tank size: a slider in a 40-gallon seems fine for a year, but you’re building a problem that costs more to fix later. Bigger tank and oversized filtration from the start will save you money and stress.

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    Neglected turtles in dirty water are prone to health problems, so regular maintenance is really important. Perform regular water changes in your turtle tank and give it a thorough cleaning from time to time to maintain hygienic conditions.

    Lighting

    Turtles kept indoors need access to ultraviolet light to grow healthy bones and shells and to prevent a serious health condition called metabolic bone disease. Without a special UVB light, turtles cannot produce vitamin D and absorb the calcium they need to stay healthy.

    While natural sunlight provides UVA and UVB light, most artificial light sources do not. Purchase a special UV bulb designed specifically for turtles and other reptiles. The light source should be positioned above the basking spot and be run on a timer for ten or more hours each day.

    Zoo Med UVB Light
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    Heating

    Turtles are cold-blooded animals that require external heat sources to warm their bodies. Your UVB bulb may double as a heat lamp or you may need to install a separate basking lamp to create the perfect temperature.

    The water in your turtle’s tank may need to be heated with a fish tank heater to maintain a comfortable temperature. Use a thermometer to monitor the temperature and create a safe and comfortable environment for your pet.

    Diet

    Turtles are easy to feed, although a varied diet is recommended to keep them happy and healthy. Provide a pellet/stick food made for turtles and supplement it with some fresh foods like romaine lettuce, crickets, and mealworms.

    Most species are omnivores that feed on insects and soft plant material, although different species have different diets. Be sure to research the needs of your pet to create a healthy meal plan.

    Feeding

    Overfeeding can cause health problems so fight the temptation to provide too many snacks! Young turtles can be fed every day while adult specimens should do well with a meal every other day.

    Some turtle keepers move their pets to a separate container at feeding time so they can simply discard the dirty water and uneaten food to keep their main enclosure cleaner for longer. However, this is not recommended for new pets that are still adapting to their new home as unnecessary handling can be stressful.

    Veterinary Care

    Turtles are exotic pets that may need the care of specialist veterinarians. It’s a good idea to contact an exotic pet veterinarian in your area if your pet requires medical care.

    What kind of turtle can live in a fish tank?

    Some aquatic turtles can live with fish, although it is risky to keep them together because turtles will snack on fish and other small animals. Turtles also have different habitat requirements to fish, so it’s better to keep these reptiles in an enclosure designed specifically for their needs.

    Is it OK to put a turtle in an aquarium?

    Many aquatic turtles can be kept in glass aquariums, although they have some special requirements. Their aquarium must include a basking platform where they can crawl out of the water and a special UV light bulb to keep them healthy.

    You should never take a turtle from the wild and keep it as a pet. Many species are now endangered in the wild, and captive-bred specimens tend to be much healthier and easier to care for anyway.

    Can turtles live in a tank full of water?

    Some aquatic turtles can be kept in a tank full of water, although some semi-aquatic turtles need shallow water so that they can keep their head above the surface. Almost all species will require a dry basking spot where they can climb out of the water and heat up.

    Terrestrial turtles and tortoises should not be kept in water!

    What is the easiest turtle to care for?

    Musk and mud turtles are relatively easy to care for because they stay small and do not require a very large habitat. However, the larger red-eared slider is hardy and easy to care for if you have the space.

    How big of a tank do I need for 2 turtles?

    The minimum tank size for two turtles will depend on their age and species. You can keep a pair of small turtles in a tank of about 50 gallons, although larger animals will require more space.

    Final Thoughts

    Keeping turtles is great for people of all ages and each of the aquatic turtles in this guide make great pets if given a good home and properly cared for. I hope the information in this article has helped you choose your new friend for life and given you some insight into the basics of aquatic turtle care and husbandry.

    My final advice for new turtle owners is to factor in their impressive lifespan, especially when buying a juvenile specimen. It’s also important to research the specific needs of the species you choose so that you can provide a happy home for your new companion!

    Do you have an aquatic turtle tank? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

  • Aquarium Water for Plants: What Iโ€™ve Learned After 25 Years of Freshwater Fishkeeping

    Aquarium Water for Plants: What Iโ€™ve Learned After 25 Years of Freshwater Fishkeeping

    Iโ€™ve been doing water changes on my freshwater tanks for over 25 years, and for most of that time Iโ€™ve been routing that water straight to my garden instead of down the drain. As long as your tank is freshwater and hasnโ€™t been medicated, that nutrient-rich water is liquid gold for plants โ€” Iโ€™ve seen the difference firsthand. Hereโ€™s everything you need to know about using aquarium water on your plants and why it works so well.

    Key Takeaways

    • Aquarium water is rich in macro and micronutrients, like nitrogen and phosphorus, that are commonly found in popular fertilizer options.
    • The parameters of your tank water may be influenced by tap water, food ingredients, and fish output.
    • Chemically treated water should not be used on edible plants.
    • Aquaponics is a large field in agriculture and encourages growing plants in a fish-based system.

    Why It Works

    Before we can see how fish tank water can be used to feed terrestrial plants, we need to understand what makes this water special. Like anything in the aquarium hobby, it all ties back to the nitrogen cycle.

    Iโ€™ve always thought of my water change water as free fertilizer. Instead of dumping it, I walk it straight to my garden beds โ€” my freshwater community tanks produce some of the richest free plant food you can find.

    When you cycled your tank, you needed to introduce a source of ammonia into your aquarium. This could have been done organically or chemically. After a while, beneficial bacteria started to reproduce and process the ammonia into other compounds, like nitrite and nitrate. Once enough bacteria had populated the aquarium, ammonia and nitrite could be maintained at 0 ppm while nitrate was controlled through water changes.

    Just because ammonia and nitrite aren’t readable in your current tank through test kits doesn’t mean that they’re not present though. In fact, fish are constantly creating ammonia through respiration and waste. Most test kits don’t read to this precision.

    Plants and Nutrients

    Ambulia-Plant

    If you have a freshwater aquarium, you may have been recommended to add live plants to help cycle the aquarium and to keep an overall healthy system. There is a good reason for this! As we’ll see, aquatic plants are very similar to terrestrial plants in how they rely on nutrients; aquarium plants get most of their nutrients through the water column, though sometimes through the substrate, and most terrestrial plants rely on the soil to receive nutrients.

    Plants can absorb all of these nitrogen compounds: ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Most species uptake nitrate the most, but live plants can help maintain the other levels. This is why adding live plants to an aquarium can decrease the toxicity of the water and maintain levels in the future.

    It’s important to note that freshwater aquariums also contain other important compounds, like magnesium and phosphate, that aren’t regularly tested for. Just because hobbyists don’t monitor these parameters doesn’t mean they’re not present in the aquarium. As we’ll see, they’re some of the most important compounds for growing terrestrial plants!

    How can our fish tanks help our indoor plants and possibly even help grow the food that we eat?

    Plant Fertilizer

    The next time you go into an outdoor store or gardening center, take a look at the available fertilizers. You may see a variety of powder and liquid options, each of which will provide a percent breakdown of the nutrients offered.

    Pellet-Fertilizer

    You will likely see a ratio of three values on the front, which read N-P-K1, or nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium. These are some of the most important nutrients for plant growth, and the ratio needed will depend on the species of plant being grown.

    While you likely won’t get this precise ratio with fish tank water, nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are present in your aquarium. While nitrogen is predictable, phosphorus, potassium, and micronutrient levels will vary as they are influenced by tap water, food ingredients, and other inputs.

    Now that we know how aquarium water acts as a fertilizer, how can we use what we have?

    Watering and Water Changes

    The best way to use your aquarium water as a plant fertilizer is by not wasting what you already have! More than likely, you perform water changes on your aquarium anywhere from once a week to several times a month. Chances are that you’ve been throwing that old water down the drain.

    Before you get rid of that water, get a watering can! Use an aquarium siphon or cup to remove the water from the tank and into your container. As long as there isn’t a ton of fish waste or other organic debris, this water can be directly used to water plants. It really is as easy as that!

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    If you’re siphoning your substrate during your water change, then you may want to take some time to let that gunk settle at the bottom of your container. While it is unlikely to hurt your plants, fish waste left sitting on top of the soil can attract other garden pests and lead to a nasty smell.

    But wait! Don’t throw that fish poop out either. In fact, this organic matter can be directly added to a compost pile along with any excess water.

    Storing Water

    Unless you have a ton of plants, you’ll probably end up with leftover water from your fish tank. This water can be discarded as usual, or you may consider setting up a reserve for later use.

    This reserve is like setting up another fish tank but in a closed tub or bucket. Here is one way of setting up an aquarium water reserve:

    Use a bucket, tub, or other large container. This container should not let light in as this will facilitate algae growth that will end up stealing nutrients. In the worst-case scenario, this nutrient-packed algae can be used for composting!

    This container should also be closed so that no contaminants, like aerosols, insects, or a thirsty pet, can make their way in. If you use a trash cute, the Brute brand is a great mainstay in the hobby. Make sure it is labeled as food grade.

    Use filter media. Contrary to popular belief, beneficial bacteria do not live in the water column. Instead, they live on the surfaces in our fish tanks, mainly in porous filter media. While new amounts of ammonia or nitrite are unlikely to enter your container, beneficial bacteria will continue to make your used fish tank water a healthy environment. You can also squeeze out your sponges during water changes to release some of the bacteria and the nutrients.

    Install a pump. Even though this water will be processed by beneficial bacteria, stagnant water will still invite unhealthy microbes. Stagnant water will likely grow algae and other slime while also depleting the water of oxygen. This could create anaerobic conditions, which would not be healthy for ornamental plants.

    Check your water regularly. Fish tank water won’t store indefinitely, and we don’t recommend hanging onto it for more than a week, especially if there is sediment or other organics present. If you notice a funky smell or any other signs of contamination, dispose of the water.

    Indoor Plants In Your Aquarium

    Aquarium water can be used to water plants with a watering can, but it can also be used straight from the source. Many hobbyists have begun growing indoor plants, and even some fruits and vegetables, straight out of their aquariums. This removes the need to store water and gives plants direct access to some of the best plant fertilizers available. In return, the plant helps remove excess nutrients from the water column.

    In order to grow terrestrial plants out of your aquarium, you will need an additional grow light. Also, some plants cannot have constantly submerged roots, so some special selection is needed.

    Considerations When Using Aquarium Water For Plants

    Aquariums make some of the best plant fertilizers available, but you might have a few questions about keeping healthy fish and healthy plants.

    Should you add more nutrients directly into your aquarium?

    It would make sense that adding more nitrogen compounds and other nutrients to your aquarium would make your fertilizer even better, but aquariums have a delicate balance of parameters. Too much ammonia or nitrite can lead to poisoning your fish; even high levels of nitrates can eventually impact your aquarium.

    However, many hobbyists add nitrogen additives to their aquariums to help their aquatic plants grow. In moderation, this is a great way to facilitate growth and even get more desirable colors out of your live plants. In terms of dosing other macro and micronutrients, like magnesium and phosphate, it’s generally not necessary unless you are certain your aquarium is lacking in them.

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    Being able to water plants with fish tank water is an added benefit of your aquarium, not its main purpose (though we’ll discuss more in the aquaponics section later).

    Should you be worried about aquarium chemicals?

    Yes, there are some potential hazards associated with using fish tank water that has been treated with chemical products. This is especially a concern if using the water on edible plants.

    Most hobbyists dose their fish tanks with at least one chemical. Most often, this is a dechlorinator that removes chlorine and chloramine to make water safe for fish, but can also include medications. However, most of these chemicals are not food-grade and cannot be ingested safely for certain. Some fish keepers use alternatives, like ascorbic acid, as a dechlorinator, but this takes some special measuring.

    One product you might not consider a threat to plants is aquarium salt. Most plants cannot physiologically process salt and may start to die as a result. You should never use saltwater for a garden if you keep a marine tank.

    โš ๏ธ From my experience: The two setups I always warn people about are saltwater/reef tanks and African cichlid tanks. Reef tanks have obvious salt issues, but cichlid tanks also tend to run high pH and sometimes have added salt โ€” both can damage or kill garden plants. Stick with a standard freshwater community tank and youโ€™ll be fine.

    If the tank has been medicated in the past or is currently being medicated, you should also not use the water on your garden.

    In general, you should avoid using chemically treated fish tank water on plants you intend to eat.

    Does pH matter?

    So far, we have not discussed pH. Freshwater aquariums typically have a neutral pH of around 7.0, but some blackwater or cichlid tanks might have well above or below that. Most plants thrive in the neutral zone, though some species prefer acidic or basic conditions respectively.

    Another important parameter to consider is alkalinity, or the ability of water to buffer changes in pH. This parameter is rarely discussed in freshwater aquariums, with general hardness being a bigger concern. However, a high alkalinity can also impede plant growth and start to affect the effectiveness of pesticides and other enhancers.

    Aquaponics

    If you’re serious about using your fish tank’s water to facilitate your plant growth, you might be interested in the greater field of aquaponics.

    This takes growing plants with fish tank water to a whole other level. Simply put, aquaponics is sustainable farming using a closed-loop system that is dependent on the nitrogen cycle: fish create waste and the plants uptake the nutrients. Plants are grown directly in the water for easy nutrient uptake without the need for soil.

    Some plants that can be grown in these systems include lettuce, tomatoes, peppers, and herbs.

    Can I use fish tank water to water my plants?

    Yes! Freshwater fish tank water is a great source of nutrients required for healthy plant growth, like nitrates. However, too much watering with aquarium water can overload your plants with nutrients, which can also be detrimental.

    Is aquarium water conditioner good for plants?

    If you’re planning on eating the foods you’re growing, you should not use chemically treated fish tank water. This is because these chemicals have not been evaluated for consumption. Instead, alternatives, like ascorbic acid, could be used to neutralize chlorine for fish.

    Is fish tank water good for gardens?

    Yes, you can use fish tank water on indoor and outdoor plants. Make sure to avoid plants that you will eat as aquarium water is often treated with various chemicals, like dechlorinator.

    Conclusion

    If you love aquariums and gardening, then there are many reasons to start using your tank water to feed your plants! Aquarium water is packed with important nutrients, like nitrate, that can fertilize your plants as needed. Avoid using water that has been chemically treated on edible plants, but save your water change leftovers for later use.

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Severum Tank Mates: My 15 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Severum Tank Mates: My 15 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Severums have a well-earned reputation as gentle giants in the cichlid world โ€” and having cared for them at local fish stores over the years, Iโ€™d say thatโ€™s accurate. Theyโ€™re surprisingly peaceful for a cichlid of their size, which opens up a lot of stocking options. But you still need to choose carefully: the wrong tank mate can stress them out or end up as a meal. Here are my picks for the best severum tank mates, plus the ones Iโ€™d steer clear of.

    Key Takeaways

    • Severums are fairly peaceful cichlids that can be kept with a variety of other tropical fish species.
    • The best severum cichlid tank mates are other medium to large fish that prefer a similar water temperature and parameters.
    • The severum cichlid is omnivorous, so they are not safe to keep with nano fish like neon tetras.
    • Severums will also eat live plants and invertebrates like shrimp.

    The Top 15 Severum Tank Mates

    Are you ready to meet 15 suitable tank mates for your severum cichlid? Read on to find the perfect match for your severum community! Here’s a video from our official YouTube Channel. If you like our videos, subscribe to our channel.

    1. Other Severums

    Severums-Fish

    Before we start getting into other species, let’s discuss the option of keeping multiple severums together in the same tank. Now, these fish don’t need to be kept in schools, and you can keep just a single fish, but many aquarists have kept them together without trouble.

    Of course, severums are large fish, so you’ll probably need a tank that holds a few hundred gallons to keep a group into adulthood. Housing four or more fish together may also help to limit aggression.

    They can be semi-aggressive toward each other, so it’s a good idea to buy them young and add them to the tank at the same time. Choosing individuals of different breeds may also help to prevent aggression, although you’ll probably want to prevent them from hybridizing if you are considering breeding them.

    2. Silver Dollars

    Spotted Silver Dollar
    • Scientific name: Metynnis argenteus
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The silver dollar is a peaceful South American schooling fish with an accurate name. These rounded fish are mostly silvery in color, although they may have some orange color on their anal fins.

    Silver dollars tend to hang out in the middle and upper layers of the tank where their high activity levels add a lot of movement. However, these fish do best in groups of about 5 or more, so you’ll need a large aquarium to house them with your severums.

    3. Oscars

    Albino Oscar
    • Scientific name: Astronotus ocellatus
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 10-14 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 75+ gallons
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive

    Oscars can make great severum tank mates, although a lot depends on their individual personalities. Like the severum cichlid, these large South American cichlids are available in several awesome color patterns, and they generally get along well with tank mates that are too large to fit in their mouths!

    Oscars are pretty easy to care for, although they are carnivorous fish that need a balanced diet that includes some meaty foods like earthworms. These fish also grow even larger than the severum cichlid, so this pairing will not work in anything less than a 75-gallon tank.

    4. Dension Barbs

    Dennison Barb
    • Scientific name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Origin: India
    • Adult size: 4 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • pH: 6.8-7.8
    • Temperature: 60-77ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The denison barb (also known as the roseline shark) is a great choice for aquarists who want a colorful active tank mate for their severum cichlid.

    However, these fish prefer cooler water temperatures than many other tropical species, so you’d need to maintain your water temperatures around the mid-70s Fahrenheit to keep everyone comfortable. Denison barbs do best in a large school, so buy a group of at least 6 individuals.

    5. Pearl Gourami

    Pearl Gourami Fish
    • Scientific name: Trichpodus leerii
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Adult size: 4-5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 30-40 gallons
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The pearl gourami is a peaceful, docile fish that enjoys similar water conditions to the severum cichlid. These tropical fish do well in community tanks, although you should keep four or more in the same tank.

    These gouramis have a reddish body covered in beautiful pearly spots and a dark horizontal line from their eye to their tail. There pelvic fins are modified into interesting feelers that they move around to explore their environment, making this a fascinating fish to watch.

    6. Medium to large plecos

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific name: Hypostomus spp., Parancistrus spp., Ancistrus sp. etc.
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 4 – 12 inches
    • Minimum tank size: Species-dependent, medium-sized species will thrive in a 55-gallon+ aquarium
    • pH: Neutral to slightly basic conditions are suitable for many species
    • Temperature: 75-80ยฐF is suitable for many species
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful but can be territorial toward their own kind

    Plecostomus catfish are laid-back bottom feeders that spend most of their time hanging out on the bottom of the tank or sucking onto rocks and driftwood. These cleaner fish are not aggressive, although they can hold their own against more boisterous tank mates.

    Many species will make excellent tank mates for severums, although it’s important to research their needs carefully before you buy. Some pleco species grow surprisingly large, while others require strong water flow or high temperatures

    Check out my guide to 15 pleco fish species to learn about some of the best types in the hobby!

    7. Angelfish

    Platinum Angelfish
    • Scientific name: Pterophyllum spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 75-82 ยฐF
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful

    Known for their distinctive body shape, freshwater angelfish are incredibly popular in the aquarium hobby. These medium-sized South American cichlids are good tank mates for severums and many other peaceful community fish.

    Angelfish are available in a few different species, including the larger altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum) and the rarer Leopold’s angelfish (P. leopoldi). The regular freshwater angelfish (P. scalare) is also available in many stunning color morphs.

    8. Blue Gourami

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Adult size: 5-6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 35 gallons
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive

    The blue gourami (also known as the three-spot gourami) is one of the most beautiful gourami species in the hobby, and it can make a good tank mate for severum cichlids.

    However, blue gouramis are also one of the more aggressive gouramis, so you’ll need to consider the safety of any other tank mates you might want to keep.

    9. Geophagus

    Geophagus
    • Scientific name: Geophagus spp.
    • Origin: Amazon River Basin, South America
    • Adult size: 5-12 inches
    • Minimum tank size: Species dependent, 55 gallons for smaller species
    • pH: Species dependent, slightly acidic to slightly basic
    • Temperature: Species dependent, generally upper 70s and lower 80s Fahrenheit
    • Temperament: Peaceful and social

    Geophagus cichlids are also known as earth-eaters for their habit of searching for sucking in sand in search of food. This diverse group of South American cichlids includes many species that will work with severums, although it’s important to research the specific water parameter and tank size needs of each type before adding it to your tank.

    It’s also important to house these fish in an aquarium with a sandy substrate to allow for natural foraging behaviors. The various geophagus cichlids inhabit diverse habitats, including still waters and fast-flowing rivers, so select species that will enjoy the same conditions as your severum cichlid.

    10. Larger Rainbowfish

    Red-Irian-Fish
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia spp., Glossolepis etc.
    • Origin: Southeast Asia and Australasia
    • Adult size: 4-6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • pH: 7-8
    • Temperature: 74-78ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    Larger rainbowfish species, like the boesemani and red rainbowfish, can make excellent tank mates for severum cichlids, especially if you are looking for large and colorful species that swim actively in the open water.

    However, it’s important to consider their water chemistry preferences when housing them with severum cichlids and South American species. These peaceful fish prefer temperatures in the mid-70s Fahrenheit and neutral to slightly basic water chemistry, so they have a fairly narrow parameter overlap with severums.

    11. Uaru Cichlid

    Uaru Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Uaru amphiacanthoides
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 10-12 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 75 gallons
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 82-86ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The Uaru is a large South American cichlid with attractive but neutral body colors. They are identified by the large black blotch on either side of their body and by their bright red or yellow eyes.

    Uaru cichlids are very peaceful and make excellent severum cichlid tank mates, although they require pretty warm water. A tropical aquarium with temperatures in the lower 80s Fahrenheit will be ideal for this tank mate combination.

    12. Kissing Gourami

    Kissing Gourami
    • Scientific name: Helostoma temminkii
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Adult size: 8-10 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 50 gallons
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 72-86ยฐF
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive

    The kissing gourami is a fascinating freshwater species known for its habit of locking lips with its own kind. These filter-feeding fish are fairly peaceful, and their specialized diet means they can be kept with much smaller tank mates.

    13. Electric Blue Acara

    Electric Blue Acara
    • Scientific name: Most likely to be a hybrid
    • Origin: South American ancestry
    • Adult size: 6-7 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 74-82ยฐF
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive

    The electric blue acara is a stunning South American cichlid that is most likely to be a hybrid of two or more wild species. These medium-sized freshwater fish are excellent tankmates for severums because they show little aggression and thrive in the same water conditions.

    ๐Ÿ† My top pick: Out of all 15 options on this list, the Electric Blue Acara is the one Iโ€™d recommend first. The temperament match with severums is excellent โ€” neither fish is looking for a fight โ€” and their water parameter requirements line up well. A great pairing.

    14. Salvini Cichlid

    • Scientific name: Cichlasoma salvini
    • Origin: Central America from Mexico to Belize
    • Adult size: Up to 6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • Temperament: Aggressive

    The Salvini cichlid is one of the most gorgeous cichlid species in the aquarium world. Unfortunately, they tend to show aggressive breeding behavior, although large severums can generally hold their own against these stunning fish if you provide a suitable environment.

    You can minimize aggressive behavior by keeping a single fish (salvini cichlid pairs can be highly aggressive), providing plenty of space in a large aquarium, and by providing plenty of caves and other hiding spots. Keep an eye on their behavior and be prepared to rehome them if you notice serious aggressive behavior.

    15. Bolivian Rams

    Bolivan Ram Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Mikrogeophagus altispinosus
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult size: 3 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    Bolivian rams are beautiful severum cichlid companions for more experienced fishkeepers. Just keep in mind that rams are dwarf cichlids, so it may be risky to add young specimens to a tank with full-grown severums that are large enough to swallow them!

    Bolivian rams are generally very peaceful and tend to hang out at the bottom of the tank. These fish can also be kept in aquariums as small as 30 gallons, so it is possible to house several individuals in a larger tank.

    Fish To Avoid

    While severums get along with many other freshwater fish species, there are a few species that you should definitely avoid. Here are four tank mates that are not recommended for adult severum cichlids:

    โš ๏ธ The two mistakes I see most often: choosing fish that are too small (severums will bully or eat them once theyโ€™re fully grown) or too aggressive (severums are peaceful by cichlid standards and will get stressed by constant harassment). Size and temperament matching is everything with this species.

    1. Dwarf Gourami

    Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium

    Large gouramis, like the pearl and kissing gouramis, are appropriate tank mates for severums, but smaller species, like honey and dwarf gouramis, are riskier. I would avoid keeping dwarf gouramis with larger cichlid species.

    2. Smaller Tetras

    Black Neon Tetra

    Some fish keepers have success keeping severums with larger-bodied species like the black skirt tetra, although small schooling fish are generally not a good idea. You should definitely avoid small species like neon and ember tetras.

    3. Highly aggressive fish

    Wolf-Cichlid

    Despite their size, severum cichlids can be vulnerable to attacks from aggressive fish. It’s best to avoid highly aggressive species like wolf cichlids, although some fishkeepers have success with aggressive species like Jack Dempseys and the blood parrot cichlid.

    Be prepared to rehome any fish that don’t get along with your severums as fights and aggressive behaviors can result in serious injuries for one or both fish.

    4. African Cichlids

    Mbuna Cichlids

    It’s generally a bad idea to mix African cichlids with severums. Rift Valley cichlids from East Africa require really hard, basic water to survive, while severums prefer neutral or even slightly acidic conditions.

    Aggression and compatibility can also be a problem, so if you do try this pairing, stick to more peaceful species like electric yellow labs.

    Care Basics

    Also known as banded cichlids or ‘poor man’s discus,’ the severum cichlid (Heros sp.) is a large but peaceful South American fish from the cichlid family. There are many different varieties in the aquarium trade, including the green severum, the gold severum, and various other species in the Heros genus.

    Severums can grow to about a foot long out in the wild, but they usually max out at less than ten inches in the home aquarium. They are easy to care for, although they require a large aquarium of at least 55 gallons.

    Diet

    Severums are omnivorous fish that require a varied diet. High-quality pellets are a good staple diet but you should include frozen foods like brine shrimp, bloodworms, and plant matter like blanched vegetables to keep your fish healthy and encourage breeding behavior.

    Recommended Water Parameters

    • Temperature: 75-84ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Water hardness: 4-6dH

    There’s much more to learn about severum cichlid care! Go ahead and check out my in-depth severum cichlid care guide for much more on these awesome fish.

    Community Aquarium Setup Tips

    Aquarium Size

    A 55-gallon tank is suitable for growing out young fish or keeping a single severum cichlid. However, larger fish will do better in a 75-gallon tank, and you’ll need even more space if you’re adding a few tank mates.

    Great Beginner SW Tank
    Aqueon 60 Gallon Breeder
    Aqueon 60 Gallon Breeder

    This new 60 gallon breeder by Aqueon has the length and width of a 75 gallon tank, but at a shorter height. This is the most economical and effective 4 foot gallon tank for the saltwater hobby now.

    Buy on Petco

    A 125+ gallon setup should provide adequate space for a severum cichlid community with a few other medium/large fish, although a bigger tank is always better!

    Decor and Planting

    The ideal layout for the severum cichlid includes plenty of driftwood over a sandy substrate. Unfortunately, these omnivorous cichlids will eat live plants, so it’s generally not a good idea to keep these partly vegetarian fish in planted tanks. However, you could try some tough species like Java fern if you’re not too worried about them getting chewed on.

    Characteristics of Suitable Companion species

    This species can be housed with many other medium to large freshwater aquarium fish. However, it’s important to select tank mates that thrive in the same water conditions as the severum cichlid.

    Severums are not particularly aggressive, although they can hold their own with slightly more aggressive and boisterous species. Small, slow-moving fish are a risky choice because severums are omnivorous.

    How big of a tank do Severums need?

    The minimum tank size for severum cichlids is 55 gallons. However, breeding pairs will require a 75-gallon tank, and you may need to go even larger when keeping multiple fish or adding a few medium to large tank mates.

    Are Severums aggressive?

    Severums are relatively peaceful cichlids, making them an excellent choice for a larger community tank. However, some species are more aggressive than others and each specimen has its own personality.

    They may also become aggressive when breeding, so these fish are generally classified as semi-aggressive.

    Will Severums eat neon tetras?

    Severums are omnivorous and generally feed on plant material and invertebrates. However, a larger specimen will feed on other fish if they are slow enough to catch and small enough to swallow. Keeping the severum cichlid with neon tetras and other small schooling species is not recommended.

    Can you keep a single Severum?

    Severums can be kept on their own or in small groups. Some sources indicate that single fish may become more aggressive without the company of their own kind, although many aquarists have no problems keeping these fish on their own.

    Can a severum live with African cichlids?

    Severums are not ideal tank mates for African cichlids from Lake Malawi, Victoria, and Tanganyika. Those fish are adapted to water with high pH and mineral content, whereas severums prefer soft water with a pH closer to neutral.

    South and Central American cichlid species or West African cichlids like the kribensis are usually a better match on water parameters.

    Final Thoughts

    Careful consideration is necessary when choosing tank mates for freshwater fish – especially when cichlids are involved. Fortunately, the severum cichlid is a gentle giant of the fish keeping world, suitable for many different freshwater tank mates. I hope this guide to the 15 best severum cichlid tank mates has helped you narrow down your options and find the perfect companions for your severum!

    Do you keep severums? Share your favorite tank mates in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Fish Tank Filter Not Working? My Troubleshooting Guide After 25 Years

    Fish Tank Filter Not Working? My Troubleshooting Guide After 25 Years

    Is your fish tank filter not working?

    Aquarium filters are essential in this hobby, so when they stop working, you can expect some problems! But what should you do if your filter malfunctions? Well, don’t rush off to buy a new one too soon because there’s a good chance you can fix it yourself!

    In this guide, I’m going to help you get your aquarium filter up and running again. We’ll start off with some pretty obvious stuff and progress to more technical issues, so read through until the end and you should have the solution you need.

    Key Takeaways

    • Aquarium filters can stop working for many different reasons, but it’s often possible to fix the problem at home.
    • Start with the simplest solutions before taking drastic actions. Sometimes all you need to do is check your filter’s electrical plug.
    • A lack of aquarium maintenance can cause various filter problems, so invest a little time every week or two to inspect and maintain your equipment.
    • ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS. Unplug your filter before inspecting it and please leave electrical work to competent individuals.

    Troubleshooting – First Steps and Clues

    Are you sure it’s not working?

    This may seem like a silly question, but some filters are almost completely silent so you really need to look or feel to know if they’re running. Look for water flow near the filter’s outflow to know if water is moving through the pump.

    If you’re sure your filter is not running, it’s time to figure out why.

    When did it stop working?

    Doing a little detective work can help you figure out some potential causes of your fish tank filter not working.

    Let’s take a look at a few scenarios:

    • After a power outage: Some filters need to be primed each time you start them. So, if your power went out, you might be able to re-prime your filter and get it up and running again.
    • After a power surge: Lightning strikes, tree falls, and power outages can all cause surges that could damage electrical equipment1.
    • Gradual loss of performance: If your filter has been weak or noisy for some time, it could be a sign of a clogged impeller or filter media. These problems tend to build up over time.

    Fish Tank Filter Not Working – 5 Possible Causes

    Finding the problem with your aquarium filtration system is much easier when you know where to look. Continue reading to discover five possible causes and what you can do to solve them.

    1. Power Problems

    Aquarium filters need electricity to run, so that’s the first place to look when your fish tank filter stops working. Before we go any further, I just want to remind you of something obvious: ELECTRICITY IS DANGEROUS. Please leave electrical work to trained professionals.

    With that out of the way, let’s look at some safe tests that you can do.

    • Check the power source

    If your filter isn’t running at all, don’t be too quick to assume that the filter is the problem! The issue could also lie with your power supply, power strip, or any of the connections between your electrical panel and the filter itself.

    Start by making sure the filter is plugged in at a power outlet. Some outlets have a dedicated on/off switch, so make sure that’s in the ‘on’ position.

    If it’s definitely plugged in but still not running, your next step is to test the outlet. You can do this by unplugging the filter and plugging in a different electrical appliance like a lamp. If that doesn’t work either, your filter is probably not the problem.

    • Check your power strip

    Sometimes there’s nothing wrong with the power source or the filter. Your powerstrip might be faulty or need to be reset. Some power strips include a reset button that will need to be pressed after a power surge or overload.

    • Inspect the cable

    Electrical cables are pretty prone to damage, so it’s a good idea to visually inspect them for signs of wear or breaks. If you’re handy, you may be able to repair a worn cable yourself, but I recommend getting help from a pro if you’re not sure.

    • Are you using a timer?

    It’s best to set your aquarium lights on a timer to keep a regular day/night schedule. However, your fish tank filter should be set to run constantly.

    It’s annoyingly easy to get your plugs mixed up during the aquarium cleaning process, and sometimes the solution is as simple as switching plugs! If this happens to you, consider putting a zip tie or some colored tape on your filter cable to help you identify it easily.

    2. Clogged Filter

    Beneficial Bacteria from Existing Filter

    Your filter is designed to collect debris from the water, but sometimes, these waste particles build up to such an extent that they create blockages that prevent your filter from working properly.

    • Rinse regularly

    Many fish tank filters use a synthetic sponge material as a filtration media. These sponges do not need to be replaced until they begin to fall apart, although they do require regular maintenance to avoid blockages.

    The dirt that collects in your aquarium filter media will reduce water flow and mechanical filtration, but you can avoid this by simply rinsing the sponge outside of your aquarium in some tank water. Avoid using chemicals or hot water when cleaning your sponge media as this can kill the good bacteria that are essential for proper filtration.

    Check out my detailed guide to the aquarium cycle to learn more about beneficial bacteria and the nitrogen cycle.

    • When to replace

    Some filters are designed to use cartridges that must be replaced regularly. This type of media should be replaced at the intervals recommended by the manufacturer to avoid a reduced water flow rate. Filter floss is another filter media that clogs easily and will need to be replaced regularly.

    3. Air Locks

    Sometimes, air gets into the filter and causes an air lock which reduces your flow rate or even prevents your filter from moving water. This often happens when the filter intake is not positioned below the water’s surface, although it also occurs if you run an airstone near the intake. You may need to prime your filter to get it restarted, although the procedure will differ depending on the type of filter you have.

    • Hang on back filters

    Many hang-on-back (HOB) filters need to be primed before they can operate or they may be very noisy and fail to operate correctly. However, some models have self-priming technology.

    To prime a HOB, simply fill the impeller chamber with water from the aquarium until it begins to flow through the outflow and back into the tank. Then, you can adjust the flow rate to suit your needs.

    • Canister filters

    Many canister filters have self-priming technology, but some must be manually primed using the built-in pump. You may also need to rock your canister filter back and forth or side to side to dislodge any air trapped in the impeller housing. These filters should be placed below your aquarium for best results.

    4. Disrupted Water Flow

    Each aquarium filter type works differently, but they are all designed to suck water from the aquarium and pass it through some sort of filter media. The obvious exceptions are sponge or under gravel filters that work with an air pump.

    Your filtration system will not work properly if water can’t flow through the media as it should, so it’s important to inspect your filter and ensure that everything is clean and put together properly.

    • Water intake obstructions

    The water intake is a common source of problems since this is the first place where blockages can occur. Inspect the intake grid or tubes for obstructions like plant leaves or hiding snails.

    Sometimes, the intake tube of your filter may become dislodged, which disrupts the flow of water through the system. Make sure this component is seated properly as it can make a huge difference.

    • Flow valves and flow rate adjustment

    Many modern aquarium filters come with an adjustable flow rate, so this is a good place to start if your filter just seems a little weak. Check out your user manual or look for a dial or lever to increase the flow rate.

    Canister filters have valves on both the intake and output valves. Water will not be able to flow through the canister if either of these valves are shut, so make sure the tabs of each valve are in the open position, or at least open enough for water to pass through.

    • Water level in the tank

    Over time, water will evaporate from your aquarium, leading to a slow decrease in water level. If the level gets below your filter’s intake, the unit will begin to suck air, and it may overheat or malfunction. Keep your aquarium full with regular top-ups and water changes.

    5. Filter Motor Problems

    • Clogged impeller

    Internal power filters, canister filters, and hang-on-back filters all have a part known as an impeller, and this is a very common cause of filter issues.

    The filter impeller is the part of the pump that spins, creating a water current that sucks water through the filtration media and back into the tank. Sometimes, this crucial part becomes dislodged from its correct position or it may get clogged with gravel or wrapped up in fibers or hairs that prevent it from spinning.

    • Impeller maintenance

    You can usually access the impeller pretty easily without any special tools, but make sure the filter is unplugged before opening it up. Gently remove the impeller with your fingers or a pair of tweezers and clean it off, paying attention to the blades and the steel impeller shaft. You should also look for obstructions in the impeller housing and clean it out if necessary.

    • Impeller replacement

    You can often get your aquarium filter back up and running by simply cleaning out the impeller and housing, but eventually, you might need to replace some parts. Impellers don’t last forever, so order a replacement when yours becomes grooved, worn, or broken.

    What To Do If You Can’t Fix It – 5 Helpful Tips

    You’re going to need to take action if you’ve tried all the options listed above and you still can’t get your filter to run. Here’s what you should do:

    • Aerate your aquarium water

    Your aquarium is not going to crash instantly without a filter, although the situation can become more serious after a few hours.

    In the meantime, use an air pump and air stone to oxygenate your aquarium water. This will help your fish breathe and supply dissolved oxygen to the beneficial bacteria that live within your substrate and on surfaces within the tank.

    • Run a spare filter

    I recommend keeping a cheap spare filter for this kind of situation, but it’s very important to use it correctly here. If you’ve got an idea of how aquarium cycling and the nitrogen cycle work, you’ll know that special bacteria live in the media in your filter and that it can take several weeks to build up a decent colony.

    Put the media from your faulty filter into your spare until you can get a new filter or fit replacement parts. You may have to trim the old sponge down to size, but that shouldn’t be a problem. Bio balls and other media types can also be transferred to your spare filter if the design allows custom media.

    • Buying replacement parts

    You can usually buy replacement parts if you have a decent brand-name fish tank filter, although it may make more sense to buy a new filter in some cases. You can ask your local fish store to order replacement parts or simply purchase them online.

    • What if you don’t have a spare filter?

    It is possible to care for the beneficial bacteria in your old filter media, although it can get a little messy if the old media hasn’t been rinsed in a while. Gently remove the media and place it in the tank near an air stone to encourage some water movement through the media and keep the good bacteria oxygenated until you can get a new filter up and running.

    Note that if you purchase the same filter to replace your broken one, you can swap the filter media into the new filter. This will help prevent losses in the bacteria colony as the colony will still function in the new filter.

    • Running a second filter

    Did you know that you can run two or even three filters in the same aquarium? Most aquarists will run a single powerful filter, although two smaller fish tank filters can provide adequate filtration while giving you that extra insurance in case one fails.

    Understocking your tank and growing live plants are great ways to slow the build-up of nitrate levels in the long run, but you can also reduce your filtration needs by feeding your fish correctly. Uneaten food is a major cause of poor water quality.

    Why isn’t my fish tank water filter working?

    Fish tank filters don’t last forever, although you should get many years of use out of a quality product. The most common problems that affect aquarium filters are air locks, clogged media, clogged impellers, and power supply problems.

    How do I know if my fish tank filter is broken?

    Some fish tank filters are virtually silent, but all canister, hang on back, and internal power filters should create some flow from their outlet. Your filter is not working if it does not pump any water.

    How do you unclog a fish tank filter?

    Start by rinsing out your filtration media. I recommend rinsing your filter sponge and media in a separate container filled with aquarium water from a water change.

    Some filter cartridges and floss cannot be reused once clogged, so remember to replace them on a regular basis. Your filter may have indicators that tell you when to service or replace media, but you can also look for guidance in your instruction manual or check with the manufacturer online.

    How long can fish survive without a filter?

    Your fish may survive hours, days, or weeks without a filter โ€” it all depends on your aquarium size, fish species, stocking level, and water chemistry. You can keep your water safer for longer by running an airstone, reducing feeding, and by testing water parameters and performing water changes as necessary.

    What to do if your fish filter stops working?

    A malfunctioning filter will reduce water quality, so this is one problem you should attend to immediately. Take a few minutes to run through the solutions mentioned in this article, including checking the power supply and looking for obstructions and clogs.

    If you can’t solve the problem, you’ll need to install a different filter. I recommend seeding the new filter media with bacteria from your old filter.

    How do I know if my filter is working in my fish tank?

    Adequate mechanical and biological filtration will keep your water clean and prevent odors. A working fish tank filter will suck water into its outtake tube and pump it back into the aquarium. This should create a gentle current that you can see, hear, or feel in the water.

    Final Thoughts

    Providing proper filtration is essential for maintaining a beautiful aquarium and healthy fish, so it can be pretty stressful when your equipment malfunctions. I hope the advice in this guide helps you fix your filter problems without ordering a replacement, but please keep safety in mind when inspecting electrical equipment.

    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Best Beginner Tropical Fish: My 11 Picks After 25 Years of Fishkeeping

    Best Beginner Tropical Fish: My 11 Picks After 25 Years of Fishkeeping

    I’ve been keeping tropical fish for over 25 years, and choosing the right beginner fish is something I feel strongly about. Most people walk into a pet store, pick something colorful, and end up with incompatible fish or species that outgrow their tank within a year. After keeping hundreds of species across freshwater setupsโ€”from 5-gallon betta tanks to 125-gallon community buildsโ€”I’ve put together this list of 11 fish I’d genuinely recommend to any first-time fish keeper.

    Key Takeaways

    • The best tropical fish for beginners are small, peaceful species that can adapt to various water conditions and store-bought foods.
    • Tropical fish require warm, filtered water for long-term care. Select a filter and heater suitable for your tank size.
    • Measure your local water parameters before selecting your first fish. This will help you choose fish that will suit your conditions.
    • Read up on the aquarium cycle and water quality maintenance before buying your first fish. It’s generally safer for first-time fish keepers to cycle their aquarium before adding fish.

    Best Beginner Tropical Fish

    1. Livebearers

    Sunset-Platy
    • Scientific name: Poecilia and Xiphophorus spp.
    • Origin: North, Central, and South America
    • Size: 1 – 6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons for guppies and Endler’s, 20+ gallons for swordtails and molly fish
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: Most species prefer pH levels above 7
    • Temperature: Upper 60’s to upper 70’s Fahrenheit
    • Key benefits: Affordable, colorful, easy to breed

    Livebearers are a great first-fish because they are so affordable and easy to care for. These fish are also available in a wide variety of colors, from jet-black molly fish to fiery red variable platies and multicolored fancy guppies, so you can choose literally any color you like!

    Of all the livebearers, my personal preference is platies. Guppies and mollies have been so heavily overbred that many store-bought specimens are weaker and more disease-prone than they should be. Platies have held up much betterโ€”they’re genuinely hardier, healthier, and still come in a great range of colors. If you’re choosing a livebearer for your first tank, start with platies.

    Several differnet species from the same family are available in the hobby, including:

    • Guppy fish (Poecilia reticulata)
    • Endler’s livebearer (Poecilia wingei)
    • Platy fish (Xiphophorus maculatus & X. variatus)
    • Molly fish (Poecilia sphenops & P. latipinna)
    • Swordtail fish (Xiphophorus hellerii).

    All of these tropical fish are members of the Poeciliidae, a family known for producing live baby fry rather than laying eggs. This makes livebearers very easy to breed, even for complete beginners. However, you could keep only males if you don’t want your fish to multiply1.

    Live-bearing fish are generally very easy to care for and will thrive on a diet of small pellets or flake food. Some species will even feed on algae and help to keep their own tank clean!

    2. Betta

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Size: 2- 2.5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 5+ gallons
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Temperature: 76-81ยฐF
    • Key benefits: Spectacular colors and fins, thrives in tanks as small as 5 gallons

    The betta fish is one of the most popular fish in the hobby due to their beauty and feisty personality. The combination of amazing colors and impressive flowing fins make these small fish excellent display animals for small aquariums.

    Bettas are suitable for some community tanks, although they are usually kept alone in their own tank. These fish don’t need a lot of room, and it’s possible to keep them happy and healthy in a tank as small as 5 gallons. However, you will need to perform regular water changes and equip your aquarium with an aquarium heater and a suitable filter.

    One strong recommendation if you’re buying a betta: look for a Plakat (short-fin betta). Long-finned varieties are beautiful, but their fins are so heavy they can barely swim and they’re prone to fin rot. Plakats are what bettas look like in the wildโ€”they swim powerfully, tend to be healthier, and are noticeably more active fish. Many hobbyists who switch to Plakats never go back to long-finned varieties.

    3. Danios

    Glowlight Danio Near Gravel
    • Scientific name: Danio rerio
    • Origin: Asia
    • Size: 2-2.5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: 6.5-7
    • Temperature: 72-81ยฐF
    • Key benefits: Hardy, affordable, and active. Various breeds available

    There are many danio species in the fishkeeping hobby, and some of them are excellent options for beginners. The popular zebra danio (Danio rerio) is one of the hardiest species and is suitable for larger aquariums in the 20-gallon range.

    Zebra danios usually have a silvery body with dark horizontal stripes. However, there are many different breeds, and the spotted leopard danios and the eye-catching neon Glofish breeds are all the same species.

    These active fish can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, although they will appreciate the extra swimming space of a 20-gallon long. Smaller species like the celestial pearl danio are a little more difficult to care for, although they are suitable for moderately experienced fishkeepers with a planted aquarium.

    4. Corydoras Catfish

    Habrosus Cory Catfish
    Habrosus Cory Catfish

    A small and active cory catfish. Does best in groups of at least 5

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 1-3 inches
    • Minimum tank size: usually 30+ gallons, although small species can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: Mostly bottom dwellers
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF depending on species
    • Key benefits: Peaceful community fish for the bottom levels of tropical aquariums

    There are dozens of corydoras species available in the aquarium hobby, including popular species like the peppered, bronze, albino, and panda cory catfish. These chunky bottom feeders are some of the best tropical fish for community tanks, although they don’t win any prizes for their color.

    Cory catfish prefer to spend their time peacefully searching the substrate for tasty morsels, although they often shoot up to the surface to grab a breath of air. These entertaining fish will hang out in loose schools of their own species, so try to buy a small group of a single type.

    My personal favorite corydoras for beginners is the Sterbai cory. It’s one of the most striking in the familyโ€”cream-colored spots on a dark body with orange-tipped pectoral finsโ€”and importantly, it’s a warmer-water species that thrives at the higher temperatures most tropical community tanks run. I’ve kept Sterbai corys across multiple tank setups and they never disappoint.

    5. Honey Gourami

    Honey Gourami
    Honey Gourami

    One of the more peaceful Gourami fish available in the hobby. Has a unique yellow coloration and only grows up to 2 inches in length

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Origin: Southern Asia
    • Size: 2-2.5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
    • pH: 6-8
    • Temperature: 74-82ยฐF
    • Key benefits: Peaceful alternative to betta fish

    The honey gourami is a peaceful labyrinth fish that can be kept with other popular tropical fish like neon tetras, rainbow fish, and many more. These interesting fish have modified pelvic fins that they use like little arms to feel the world around them.

    Honey gouramis aren’t quite as colorful as dwarf gouramis, although they are much better fish for beginners due to their peaceful nature. However, these fish are also available in some great color morphs like the sunset and red breeds.

    Honey gouramis are predators that hunt for small aquatic invertebrates and their larvae, although they are easy to feed in captivity. Provide regular flake food and some tasty treats like frozen blood worms and brine shrimp.

    7. Cherry Barb

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific name: Puntius titteya
    • Origin: Sri Lanka, South Asia
    • Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 15-20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • Key benefits: A peaceful and inexpensive schooling barb

    Cherry barbs are peaceful schooling fish that can be kept with other small peaceful fish like white cloud minnows and zebra danios.

    Males develop a beautiful cherry red shade, although females are also attractive, with a rich orange color and a pair of bright and dark horizontal stripes on each side.

    Cherry barbs are omnivorous fish that thrive on small pellets or flake foods, although they will appreciate a varied diet including live or frozen foods like blood worms. These fish love to hang out together so pick up a school of six or more.

    8. Black Neon Tetra

    Black Neon Tetra
    Black Neon Tetra

    A variant neon variety. More reliant than neon and cardinal tetras

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    • Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 15-20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 71-82ยฐF
    • Key benefits: One of the hardiest tetras

    Black neon tetras are perfect community fish for beginners, offering great color and a peaceful nature. These midwater swimming fish will thrive in a tropical fish tank with other schooling fish and bottom dwellers like corydoras catfish and the bristlenose pleco.

    Black neon tetras are schooling fish that should be kept in a group of their own species. A 15-gallon tank would be suitable for about 6 fish.

    9. Small Plecos

    Zebra-Pleco
    • Scientific name: Ancistrus spp. etc.
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 4-6 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20-30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: Bottom dweller
    • pH: 5.7-7.5
    • Temperature: 73-80ยฐF
    • Key benefits: Fascinating bottom dwellers that can help to control algae in the aquarium

    There are hundreds of pleco species known in the aquarium trade, although small species like the bristlenose pleco are most suitable for beginner fish keepers. These fascinating creatures are very peaceful despite their unusual appearance.

    These gentle catfish will not bother other fish, although they can be a little territorial toward their own kind. That means it’s best to keep just one small pleco species in the same aquarium unless you have a large tank.

    Bristlenose and other small plecos are herbivores that can do a great job of cleaning algae in the aquarium, although you should also provide plenty of driftwood for them to graze on. They will also eat plant food like cucumber, zucchini, sinking algae wafers, and gel foods.

    10. Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loach
    Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loaches are hardy bottom-dwelling fish. Nocturnal in nature. Gets along with many fish and tolerate of coldwater environments

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 3-4 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming level: Bottom dweller
    • pH: 5.5-6.5
    • Temperature: 73-86ยฐF
    • Key benefits: Interesting bottom dweller that will clean up uneaten food

    Kuhli loaches are fascinating creatures that look like hyperactive eels as they zoom along the bottom of the tank. However, these small loaches are mostly nocturnal, so they are usually active after the lights go off.

    There are a few species in the hobby including the black kuhli loach which is really more of a chocolate-brown shade. However, the regular banded kuhli loach is one of the most attractive types.

    These fish love to hang out with their own kind, so it’s best to buy five or more and let them explore together. They will burrow under rocks and driftwood or tunnel into the substrate but come out to search for uneaten food and sinking pellets or tablets when they smell food in the water.

    11. Kribensis Cichlid

    Kribensis Cichlid Male and Female
    • Scientific name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Size: 3-4 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful but can be aggressive when breeding
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: 6-7
    • Temperature: 75-79ยฐF
    • Key benefits: A relatively peaceful and adaptable African cichlid with amazing colors

    The kribensis cichlid is a beautiful dwarf cichlid from West African rivers. These colorful fish do not require the hard, high pH water chemistry of other popular African cichlids, making them a good choice for many community setups or even breeding projects.

    These fish spawn easily, and they are fascinating to breed, although they can get pretty aggressive in the breeding season. Males and females are similar in appearance, although females tend to be shorter and plumper, while males have a more streamlined body shape and longer pointed caudal, anal and dorsal fins.

    Kribensis cichlids are easy to care for and will thrive on regular commercial foods like flakes and pellets. They are generally suitable for larger planted tropical fish tanks with other small, peaceful fish, although they are not shrimp-safe.

    Species to Avoid

    Unfortunately, there are many popular tropical fish that are not really suitable for beginner fish owners. Most pet stores have knowledgeable staff that will point new fishkeepers in the right direction, although sometimes beginners buy fish that are better left to the experts.

    Avoid these fish until you are a little more experienced.

    The most common impulse buy I see beginners make is goldfish. Despite being sold in small tanks at the pet store, fancy goldfish can reach 8โ€“12 inches and single-tailed varieties can hit 12โ€“18 inches. They’re cold-water fish that don’t belong in a tropical setup, produce significantly more waste than most species, and need far more filtration than beginners typically run. Goldfish are not beginner fishโ€”they’re a dedicated hobby in themselves.

    Tankbusters

    Tinfoil Barb

    Some popular aquarium fish grow surprisingly large and require very large aquariums when they reach adult size. Avoid these common tank busters until you are more experienced and have room for a much larger tank:

    • Common pleco – grows to over 12 inches
    • Red-tailed catfish – grows to over 5 feet!
    • Bala shark – grows to over 12 inches
    • Clown loach – grows to about 12 inches
    • Tinfoil barb – grows to over 12 inches

    Aggressive Species

    Jaguar Cichlid

    Some aquarium fish are prized for their aggressive behaviors, while others are surprisingly mean and territorial. Aggressive fish can be exciting pets, although they are not recommended for beginners.

    Let’s take a look at some examples.

    • Chinese algae-eater – These fish are known to feed on the slime coat of other fish
    • Red-tailed and rainbow sharks – These fish can be surprisingly aggressive and territorial, especially toward their own kind.
    • Jaguar Cichlid – These large cichlids are extremely aggressive towards other fish and may even bite human hands.
    • Red devil cichlid – Red devils are highly aggressive Central American Cichlids that need large aquariums and tough tank mates.

    Species With Special Water or Care Requirements

    What is a fancy goldfish

    Some freshwater fish breeds and species have specific needs that make them more difficult to care for. The following fish are better for more experienced fish keepers.

    • Fancy goldfish – Goldfish are not tropical fish. These common aquarium fish need cool water conditions and are usually kept in unheated fish tanks.
    • African cichlids – African cichlids from the Rift Valley lakes require high pH water with a high mineral content. Many species are highly territorial too, so these fish are better left to more experienced fishkeepers.
    • Discus – The discus fish requires pristine water conditions to survive. These sensitive fish are not suitable for beginners.

    Why Are Some Species Easier To Keep?

    Candy Koi Betta Fish

    You may be wondering how I chose the fish in this list, or why some fish are better for beginners than others. Well, it really comes down to a few different factors that make them tougher and easier to care for.

    Let’s take a look at five important characteristics of good beginner fish.

    • Hardiness

    The ideal beginner fish are relatively hardy and will usually survive the kind of mistakes inexperienced fish keepers tend to make.

    Many new fish keepers will take some time to figure out how much to feed their fish, or how often to clean their tank or change their water. Basically, hardy beginner fish are much harder to kill.

    • Diet

    Some fish species have very specific diets that are difficult to provide in an aquarium. Fortunately, all the fish in this list will feed on regular commercial foods like flakes, pellets, or wafers.

    However, it’s still important to select the right kinds of foods for your specific fish species. Many small schooling fish will do well on a flake diet, while bottom feeders like corydoras prefer sinking pellets and tablets.

    • Size

    Bigger fish aren’t necesarily more difficult to care for, although small fish in the 1.5-3 inch range make ideal beginner fish because they tend to do well in the smaller aquariums that most fish keepers start out with.

    Aquariums in the 15 to 30-gallon range are generally cheaper and easier for beginners to maintain.

    • Temperament

    Each fish has its own individual temperament, although different species tend to have certain characteristics. Confident but peaceful fish are the ideal species for beginners because they tend to feed well and get along with other species. Aggressive and shy fish may require more experience.

    • Adaptability

    Some fish have very specific requirements when it comes to temperature, water chemistry, flow, and other factors.

    These fish may be easy to care for if you can provide these conditions, but it is usually best to start out with adaptable fish that thrive in the average home aquarium.

    Aquarium Basics – Getting Started

    Waterbox Nano

    Have you chosen your favorite beginner fish? Run through this list of basic equipment and important concepts before you buy your first fish.

    Basic Equipment List

    • Suitable fish tank – A 15-30 gallon is ideal for beginner fish keepers as they are relatively easy to maintain. Avoid bowls or tanks smaller than 5 gallons.
    • Aquarium heater and thermometer – Tropical fish require a suitable heater to create the warm water conditions that match their natural habitat.
    • Aquarium filter – You will need a filter to keep your water clean and clear. An air-powered sponge filter is adequate for a small aquarium, although power filters, hang-on-backs, and canister filters are better for larger aquariums.
    • Substrate and decorations – Use only clean, aquarium safe products in your fish tank.
    • Maintenance equipment – You’ll also need some cleaning and maintenance equipment like a gravel vacuum, water test kit (pH, GH, KH, Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate), water conditioner and a bucket.

    Important Concepts for Beginners

    Take the time to learn about the following important concepts before you buy your first fish.

    • Water parameters – Its important to measure your water hardness and pH before buying your fisrt fish. That way you can choose fish that are naturally suited to your water conditions.
    • The Nitrogen Cycle – Excess nutrients from fish waste and uneaten food are processed by special bacteria in a cycled aquarium. Understanding this cycle will make you a better fish keeper and help you maintain a healthy aquarium.
    • Regular Maintenance – Your aquarium will require regular cleaning and partial water changes to remove dirt, algae, and the excess nutrients left behind from the nitrogen cycle. Ideally, the frequency of these water changes should be based on nitrate levels measured with your water test kit.

    Some of these concepts may seem a little tricky at first, but don’t be intimidated by the technical side of the hobby. The Aquarium Store Depot website is full of in-depth articles that will help you keep your tropical fish happy and healthy for years to come!

    FAQs

    What is the easiest tropical fish to keep for beginners?

    Guppies and zebra danios are among the easiest tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Zebra danios are particularly hardy fish, although they do best in a larger aquarium of 20 gallons or more. Guppies will thrive in a tank of 10-15 gallons with basic care.

    What is the best tropical fish for a new tank?

    Many new fish keepers make the mistake of adding fish to a new tank right away because they are unaware of the aquarium nitrogen cycle. This process can take several weeks, although some aquarists successfully cycle new aquariums with hardy fish like zebra danios.

    What fish to put in tank first?

    Its best to add just a few fish at a time until your biological filtration system is fully accustomed to a high bioload. Hardy schooling fish like zebra danios or black neon tetras are a good first fish, although there is no set sequence when adding fish to an aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing your first fish is an exciting step at the start of a wonderful new hobby and hope the information in this guide has helped you choose your next pets! My best advice is to take your time and enjoy the process of learning before buying your first fish.

    Looking for more fishkeeping information? Browse the rest of my in depth articles for more on these and other tropical freshwater fish. You’ll also find loads of other helpful articles on every aspect of tropical fishkeeping!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Feeder Fish: My Honest Take After 25 Years of Using Them

    Feeder Fish: My Honest Take After 25 Years of Using Them

    Iโ€™ve used feeder fish in my own tanks over the years โ€” mainly feeder guppies and goldfish โ€” and Iโ€™ve formed a pretty clear opinion on them. Guppies are my preference because they breed fast enough that you can maintain your own colony, which cuts out most of the disease risk. That said, my honest recommendation is to treat feeders as a bridge: useful while youโ€™re transitioning a fish onto prepared foods, but not something Iโ€™d rely on long-term. Hereโ€™s what you need to know before using them.

    Key Takeaways

    • Predatory fish can be fed an assortment of feeder fish.
    • Feeder fish can vary in size and quality, so it’s important to buy the right ones for your fish.
    • The best feeder fish are raised in their own aquarium with a high-quality diet.
    • A nutritious feeder fish can be fed once or twice a week depending on the species and the size of the predator.

    What Are Feeder Fish?

    Comet Goldfish

    Feeder fish are any type of fish that has been bred to serve as food for other aquatic life. This can include an array of species, both freshwater and saltwater.

    Feeder fish are often seen in local fish and pet store locations. They are usually kept by the dozens or hundreds in a big, empty tank. These are usually feeder goldfish, guppies, platies, or other tropical livebearers, and are priced at less than $1.00 each.

    Unfortunately, these fish are not kept in the best conditions. They are seen as highly disposable and not worth the cost of upkeep. As a result, infection, disease, and mutations run rampant. This makes it very easy for these same ailments to be added to the home aquarium during feeding times. For this reason, many hobbyists who heavily rely on feeder fish breed their own stock.

    Feeder fish can also be well-fed guppies and platies from a heavily planted display aquarium. Many hobbyists understand that the love and care they give for feeder fish translates into the overall health of their predatory fish. For this reason, many hobbyists with carnivorous fish raise their own feeder fish in regular aquarium conditions. Some even plump their feeder stock up with high-quality foods to ensure that their bigger fish get a nutritious treat.

    Benefits To Live Food

    For years, there has been discussion surrounding the ethics of feeding live fish to aquarium fish. With all the great food options available, some hobbyists don’t see it necessary to offer live food. While we can’t tell you what’s right or wrong, we can give you some of the benefits of feeding live fish.

    Enrichment

    The biggest benefit of offering live fish as food is providing enrichment for other fish. Fish are limited to their tank environment, and they likely get bored every now and then. They might even get tired of having the same thing for dinner every night in a row.

    Offering feeder fish provides a new enrichment element in the tank by making the other fish use their predatory instincts. This can stimulate your fish’s instincts and activity levels.

    Natural Habitat

    A predatory species likely eats other fish in the wild. This isn’t always true as some fish are strictly insectivores, but if your fish can fit another species in its mouth, then it’s likely that they eat fish in their natural habitat.

    Nutrients

    While aquarium foods are usually packed with nutrients, one food can’t cover every single mineral and nutrient. Because of this, most hobbyists have a rotating diet with many different food options. One of these options might be feeder fish.

    If the hobbyist chooses to raise their own feeder fish, then there is even greater control over nutrient intake for both the prey and the predator.

    Sometimes It’s Necessary

    One reason live food might be necessary is that your fish might be wild caught. While many fish have been successfully bred in the aquarium hobby, some are still collected. Unless they are shown how to eat flake or pellet food, they might need to be given a strictly live diet for a while. This is also true if the fish is picky.

    Types

    The most common types of feeder fish to see for sale are goldfish and guppies. Depending on whether you have access to a bait shop or a more specialized store, you might have access to better, and sometimes cheaper, alternatives.

    Here are some of the different options you might come across and how each can be fed!

    Bluegill

    Bluegills are very common North American freshwater fish found in ponds and lakes. They are scientifically known as Lepomis macrochirus and are often sold for freshwater fishing.

    While some hobbyists catch bluegills to keep as aquarium pets (check with state laws as this could be illegal), others use these fish as food for their other pond fish, like bass. These fish may be found for sale in a commercial fishing store, but are most often caught from local waterways. This can introduce parasites and other diseases into the aquarium.

    Another consideration to take into account is that bluegills are large fish that grow up to a foot long. While they are often sold as juveniles under 5 inches, if your fish doesn’t eat, then you might end up with a bluegill tank mate! Bluegills are also relatively aggressive, which could become problematic in the future.

    Goldfish

    Feeder-Goldfish

    Goldfish, Carassius auratus, are arguably the most common feeder fish available as both freshwater and saltwater predators eat them. They are easy to find and usually marked at an extremely low price. However, there are a lot of problems that can come with goldfish.

    As you may know, goldfish are some of the messiest fish in the aquarium hobby. Setting up and maintaining a healthy supply of goldfish can be difficult for the average aquarist. Purchasing live goldfish from the store can also be challenging as disease runs rampant in unclean and unmonitored store tanks.

    The same problem arises from keeping goldfish as bluegills, and that’s that goldfish can grow to extreme sizes depending on the breed. While some breeds stay small, under 4 inches, others can grow to be a couple feet. Unless you know how to identify breeds of goldfish (and not trust what they’re listed as at the store) then you might not know what you’re getting yourself into.

    There is another underlying problem that hobbyists aren’t even aware of: thiaminase. Thiaminase is a necessary enzyme that helps break down vitamin B1 in several species, including goldfish. Though this enzyme is essential for the fish, ingesting large amounts of it can lead to thiamin deficiency in other organisms.

    Guppies

    Guppies Swimming

    Guppies are another popular choice and the term includes some subcategories. These fish often cost even less than goldfish and are just as available. As these fish stay under about 1.5 inches, they can be fed to a variety of tropical fish.

    ๐Ÿ† My pick among feeder fish: Guppies are my preference over feeder goldfish. Theyโ€™re smaller, they breed incredibly fast, and if you raise your own colony in a spare 10-gallon tank at home, you sidestep the biggest disease risk altogether. A healthy home colony can easily keep pace with most predatory fish.

    Commercial feeders suffer from the same poor conditions as goldfish, meaning that disease and infection can easily be transmitted. Many species of guppy also contain thiaminase, which can start to affect the animals being fed after prolonged ingestion.

    Other alternatives to guppies might be:

    • Mosquito Fish (2.8 inches)
    • Minnows (2.5 inches)

    Mosquito fish, minnows, and guppies are often sold alongside each other as feeder fish. You may not even be able to tell them apart when they’re kept in the same poor conditions. Luckily, they are very easy to breed in the home aquarium and can be fed with high-nutrition foods.

    Unfortunately, both of these fish still increase the chances of thiamin deficiency.

    Platies

    Gold-Red-Platy

    Platies are less commonly found as feeder fish, but many aquarists use them in their own homes as they reproduce rapidly. These fish also stay between 2-3 inches, which makes them easy to feed to most moderately-sized fish.

    If you’re going to feed feeder fish, then platies are probably some of the most reliable, as long as you’re breeding your own. These are easy and hardy fish that can easily be fed and prepared for feeding. As of now, platies are also not known to cause thiamin deficiency in other animals1.

    Why Are They Bad?

    While there are definitely benefits to giving feeder fish to predatory species, like enrichment and nutritional value, there are a lot of reasons why you might be hesitant to try. Here are some remarks from esteemed aquarist and scientist Dr. Neale Monks (see his full article at WebWebMedia).

    Disease and Illness

    As already mentioned, most feeder fish from pet stores are diseased. These are cheap fish that are disposable and will not have their tanks properly taken care of. This, in addition to a high turnover rate, makes it a near-guarantee that some ailment or bacteria will unknowingly enter your aquarium during feeding times.

    โš ๏ธ From my experience: Disease management is the #1 issue I warn people about with feeder fish. Store-bought feeders are kept in severely overcrowded tanks with minimal care โ€” the conditions are rough. Iโ€™ve seen ich and bacterial infections introduced this way more than once. If youโ€™re committed to using live feeders, breeding your own guppy colony at home is far safer than buying off the shelf.

    Poor Nutritional Value

    Yes, feeder fish provide different nutrients than your fish would normally get from a singular fish food. However, a feeder fish is only as nutritional as the nutrition it eats. Since feeder fish aren’t usually taken care of in a commercial setting, they provide little to no additional nutritional benefit.

    Thiaminase

    The enzyme thiaminase can also cause more trouble than what it’s worth. This is an enzyme that’s necessary for breaking down vitamin B1 in many species, including goldfish, minnows, and other invertebrates. Overindulgence of a thiaminase source, like feeder fish, can start to cause a thiamin deficiency in the predator. This can quickly lead to health problems that may not be obvious to treat and eventual death.

    How To Keep Them Healthy

    The key to a happy and healthy fish is giving happy and healthy feeder fish. This means only purchasing from fish stores that keep clean and healthy tanks, and setting up your own breeding tanks if possible.

    This setup doesn’t need to be extensive, but it should support whichever species you choose to raise. There are a few things to keep in mind when choosing a feeder:

    1. Pick a species that can be easily eaten. In terms of size, your fish should be able to swallow the other fish without any problems. Avoid species with sharp fins or body features that could potentially damage your fish’s mouth or esophagus.
    2. Pick a livebearer species. Livebearer species are practically self-sustainable and will provide food for your fish as long as you give them a space to do so. It is also recommended to keep herbivorous livebearers as they can be given plenty of nutritional value through algae flakes and pellets..
    3. Price. Of course, you will need to consider the price if planning to feed store-bought fish. Keep in mind that you don’t need to feed your fish fresh food every day of the week. In fact, it’s better to only feed them once or twice a week! Still, you will need to consider the price, frequency, availability, and quality of the feeders.

    Can you feed your fish other fish?

    Yes! Many species of tropical fish available are predatory fish that rely on consuming other fish and animals for nutrition. In their natural habitat, they would receive nutrients and enrichment from hunting, which can be replicated in the aquarium setting.

    What is the best feeder fish?

    The best feeder fish is one that has been prepared for feeding. Many pet stores have feeders available, but their tank setups usually suffer from overpopulation and poor water quality. The best feeder will come from a clean setup that receives plenty of nutritional value.

    How often should you feed live fish?

    Live fish should be given as a treat once or twice a week. Depending on the size of the fish, and the size of the feeders, your fish might only need to hunt every couple of days.

    If your feeder fish are from a reputable source, you may be able to keep uneaten food in the tank. Otherwise, they should be removed.

    Conclusion

    One of the reasons you likely got a predatory fish is to feed it! Feeding time can be exciting, and offering live foods can be a great way to introduce enrichment and additional nutrients into the aquarium. However, there are a few considerations that need to go into picking the right feeder fish, like size and quality. For the best results, raise live fish in a secondary aquarium.

    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • The 21 Smallest Aquarium Fish in the Trade: My Picks After 25 Years

    The 21 Smallest Aquarium Fish in the Trade: My Picks After 25 Years

    Iโ€™ve personally kept several fish from this list โ€” chili rasboras, pea puffers, and zebra danios โ€” and cared for virtually all of them during my years working at local fish stores. The single most important thing I tell people getting into nano fish: donโ€™t let the small size fool you into thinking a small tank will do. Every fish on this list needs to be kept in a group, and a group still needs space. I always push people toward a 10-gallon minimum, with bigger being better. Hereโ€™s my full breakdown of the 21 smallest aquarium fish in the trade.

    Key Takeaways

    • One of the smallest fish in the aquarium trade is the dwarf pygmy goby.
    • The world’s smallest fish is believed to be Paedocypris progenetica, an unnamed fish from Sumatra.
    • Small aquarium fish don’t require any additional consideration, but tank mates should have a similar temperament.
    • Popular small fish include zebra danios, chili rasboras, dwarf pea puffers, and white cloud minnows.

    The 21 Smallest Aquarium Fish In The Trade

    Some of the smallest fish in the world can be brought into the home aquarium. What they lack in size they bring in color, movement, and excitement. Check out the video from our YouTube Channel.

    It should be noted that just because these fish are small does not necessarily make them the most affordable or hardy species. Some may also be limited in availability or difficult to find.

    1. Dwarf Pygmy Goby

    • Scientific Name: Pandaka pygmaea
    • Adult Size: 0.35-.0.45 inches
    • Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, bottom-dwelling

    To begin this list, we start with one of, if not, the world’s smallest fish species: the dwarf pygmy goby. Also known as the Philippine goby, these incredibly tiny fish max out at just under a half-inch long. They have mottled black, brown, and white colors with a typical elongated goby body.

    The dwarf pygmy goby originates from muddy bottoms throughout Southeast Asia. They regularly move between freshwater and brackish conditions; many hobbyists prefer keeping them in medium salinity, but they can also be kept in purely fresh conditions.

    Unfortunately, the dwarf pygmy goby is a critically endangered species and distribution is highly limited. Hobbyists are most likely to find these fish available for purchase near their natural habitats.

    2. Exclamation Point Rasbora

    Exclamation Point Rasbora
    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Adult Size: 0.50-0.65
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, shy

    The exclamation point rasbora is colorful and aptly named for the black-and-orange-outlined ‘!’ on the sides of its body. These fish are native to Thailand but can be found for sale throughout the aquarium industry relatively easily.

    The exclamation point rasbora needs to be kept in larger groups, with most hobbyists recommending a school of at least 10 or more. This is because these fish are very shy and skittish and will find comfort in a larger school. For the same reasons, the aquarium should be densely planted with plenty of floating plants. Tank mate compatibility is also limited.

    3. Chili Rasbora

    Chili Rasboras
    Chili Rasboras

    Use Promo Code ASDFLIPPROMO

    A great nano schooling fish. Males display brighter colors. Best in groups of 6 or more

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The chili rasbora has gained popularity over the past few years as being one of the best freshwater species that only grow to an inch. These fish are firey-orange and will bring tons of color and movement to the aquarium.

    Like most other small fish, chili rasboras are shy schooling fish that excel in a large group with plenty of vegetation. If keeping no other fish, a 10 gallon aquarium can comfortably keep a school of 20 individuals.

    ๐Ÿ† My top pick from this entire list: Chili rasboras are my #1 recommendation for nano tanks. Iโ€™ve kept them personally and theyโ€™re absolutely stunning in a large group against a planted background. The color payoff in a well-planted 10-gallon is hard to beat โ€” they look like living embers.

    The chili rasbora is a relatively hardy fish that can adapt to some changes in water parameters, but good tank husbandry is a must. With excellent care, these fish can live to be 8 years old!

    4. Fire Ember Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    Similar in appearance to the chili rasbora, the fire ember is bright orange. However, fire embers are hardier, less skittish, and much more affordable than chili rasboras.

    Fire ember tetras originate from the Amazon River in South America. They prefer a heavily planted aquarium and a school of at least 6 or more. These small fish have been captive-bred and can be kept in a wide range of aquarium conditions.

    5. Least Killifish

    • Scientific Name: Heterandria formosa
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.50 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    Though they’re named killifish, least killifish are not true killifish and are a type of minnow instead. This means that they are small, hardy fish that can complete a natural biotope setup or densely planted aquarium. They are also one of the few aquarium species available that is native to the southeast United States.

    Least killifish are one of the smallest species of minnow available, making them a perfect addition to the nano aquarium. These are not schooling fish, but they greatly enjoy the company of others.

    6. Pygmy Sunfish

    • Scientific Name: Elassoma spp.
    • Adult Size: 1.0-1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Shy, live-feeders

    Pygmy sunfish are sure to make a big splash in the aquarium hobby in the near future. These electric black and blue fish almost resemble a small species of cichlid, without the aggression. Instead, these fish are native to the southeast United States and display paired mating behaviors.

    Pygmy sunfish are currently difficult to find for sale, though demand is growing. There is one major challenge that comes with keeping these fish though, and this is that they require a live food diet. They are ambush predators and need to hunt for prey that wiggles and moves.

    The best home for a pygmy sunfish will have a live food system up and running.

    7. Pygmy Corydoras

    Pygmy Cory
    Pygmy Cory

    A smaller variety of Cory Catfish. Grows to less than 1.5 inches in length. A peaceful bottom dwelling fish

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, bottom-dwellers

    Though some of the other tiny fish on this list might be hard to find at your local fish store, the pygmy corydoras is luckily easy to find.

    These small bottom-dwellers are native to Brazil and appreciate a soft substrate with plenty of live plants. They have natural brown and white colors and are easy to tell apart as females are almost double the size of males! They are very difficult to breed in the home aquarium but have been done so successfully at a commercial scale.

    Pygmy corydoras are one of the few species on this list that can be safely housed with larger tropical fish. As long as they are kept in schools of at least 6 or more and are given plenty of coverage, they will do well in a traditional community tank setup.

    8. Dwarf Pea Puffer

    Freshwater Pea Puffers
    Freshwater Pea Puffers

    At only an inch in length, this is the smallest pufferfish you can purchase in the aquarium hobby

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon travancoricus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive

    Maybe not the smallest fish on this list, the dwarf pea puffer is certainly the most adorable. These plump little fish are one of the only true freshwater species of puffer; most other species prefer brackish waters. Instead, these fish do best in a heavily planted freshwater aquarium.

    ๐Ÿก From my experience: Pea puffers have enormous personalities for such a tiny fish โ€” Iโ€™ve kept them and always enjoyed them, but they can be nippy with tank mates. They do best in a species-only setup or with very carefully chosen companions. Rewarding fish, just go in with the right expectations.

    The dwarf pea puffer might be small, but they can be aggressive. The problem is that males and females look the same to us, but males can tell each other apart. Male pea puffers can be territorial towards other males in the tank, especially during breeding periods. Because of this, it might take some time to work out a compatible male-to-female ratio.

    9. Clown Killifish

    Clown Killifish
    Clown Killifish

    A colorful nano killifish. Best in low flow tanks

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    • Scientific Name: Epiplatys annulatus
    • Adult Size: 1.0-1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, predatory

    Also known as the banded panchax, the clown killifish is a very interesting fish to keep. These might not be the smallest fish on the list, but they’re one of the smallest and most effective predators. The clown killifish stays just below the surface of the water, waiting for insects and other small organisms to land. When ready, they use their upturned mouths to quickly catch their prey!

    In the aquarium setting, this can be replicated by offering small insects, such as fruit flies and mosquito larvae. While predators, clown killifish can be kept alongside a variety of community tank species, like tetras and corydoras. However, they are rather solitary and enjoy the company of one or two others.

    10. Spotted Blue Eye Rainbowfish

    • Scientific Name: Pseudomugil gertrudae
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, shy

    Possibly the most beautiful fish on this list, the spotted blue eye rainbowfish is a shimmering bluish-yellow with elongated speckled fins. Because of their appearance, these are also some of the most expensive fish listed.

    The spotted blue eye rainbowfish only grows to be about an inch at mature size. They originate from shallow, slow-moving waterways throughout Southeast Asia as well as Australia. Spotted blue eye rainbows can withstand low pH levels, making them a good candidate for blackwater or biotope setups.

    These fish do best in groups of at least 6 or more and as one of the only species in the aquarium. They are often kept with peaceful bottom-dwellers, including snails and shrimp.

    11. Green Neon Tetra

    Green Neon Tetra School
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon simulans
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The green neon tetra isn’t seen in the aquarium as often as the more recognizable neon tetra, but these tiny fish do well in a school in most tank setups. A few considerations are needed to keep them, though.

    While tetras are seen as some of the hardiest fish in the aquarium hobby, green neon tetras are a little more sensitive to imperfect water conditions. These fish originate from exclusively blackwater conditions in South America. This means that blackwater conditions with soft, acidic water parameters need to be matched in the home aquarium. They also need heavy plant coverage, preferably with leaf litter that sustains a natural population of small foods.

    12. Kubotai Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Microdevario kubotai
    • Adult Size: 0.50-1.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    One of the less common species of rasbora, the Kubotai rasbora is hard to miss! These fish are naturally neon green from Southeast Asia.

    For their size, these rasboras originate from moderately-flowering waterways. This, in addition to plant life, makes the water highly oxygenated, which should be recreated in the aquarium setting with plants and air bubblers. Surface water may also be agitated as long as it’s not overpowering the rasboras.

    Otherwise, Kubotai rasboras are relatively straightforward to keep as long as water parameters are maintained. They are a schooling fish that need to be kept in a group of at least 6 or more. Tank mate pairing may be difficult as other inhabitants must also be a similar size and be able to withstand a moderate water flow.

    13. White Cloud Minnow

    White Cloud Minnow in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful, active

    While many of the smallest aquarium fish are fun and cute to look at, many are shy and reclusive. If you’re looking for something small and active, the white cloud minnow might fit your next coldwater aquarium setup!

    The white cloud minnow is a bold fish with a silver body, bright white horizontal stripe, and unmistakable red fins. They originate from China but have been found in other regions of Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, they are nearly considered extinct in their natural habitat.

    Luckily, these are some of the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium hobby and are highly prolific! They will naturally mate when kept in a school of 6 or more. White cloud minnows are a coldwater species, which means that tank mate pairing can be tricky. They also require some water flow and are relatively active in the top and middle portions of the aquarium.

    14. Glowlight Tetra

    Glowlight Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hemigrammus erythrozonus
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    You might think that glowlight tetras are artificially dyed, but these bright orange fish are all natural! These tetras are a little bigger than the other species on this list, but they’re a perfect addition to a more active community tank.

    Glowlight tetras originate from South America and do best in a heavily planted aquarium with a dark substrate that lets their natural colors show. These fish are a loose schooling species and need to be kept in groups of at least 6 or more. If they’re swimmingly together in a tight school, then they might be overwhelmed by the other tank mates in the aquarium and a larger school may be necessary.

    15. Dwarf Emerald Rasbora

    Dwarf Emerald Rasbora
    Dwarf Emerald Rasbora

    A colorful Rasbora fish that needs large numbers for its personality to really show. Needs at least a group of 10.

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    • Scientific Name: Danio erythromicron
    • Adult Size: 1.0-1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    The dwarf emerald rasbora is not a common species to see at your local fish store, but these fish complement the colors and behaviors of celestial pearl danios and other small tetras. They may also be advertised as a thick band purple zebra danio.

    Dwarf emerald rasboras have a very limited range in Inle Lake, Myanmar. They are shoaling fish and the male-to-female ratio needs to be balanced. Males are slightly smaller but more colorful than their female counterparts. Because they’re so small, these fish do best in groups of at least 10 or more.

    Another concern surrounding the dwarf emerald rasbora is during feeding time. Though these fish are confident in numbers, they can be outcompeted during feeding times by other more active species. They also have small mouths, which means that they might have difficulty eating some foods.

    16. Borneo Sucker Loach

    • Scientific Name: Gastromyzon punctulatus
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Active, social

    Another species not commonly found for sale in the hobby is the Borneo sucker loach, also known as the spotted borneo sucker. These fish are named after the country they originate from and the small yellow spots that cover their dark body.

    The Borneo sucker loach is a relatively challenging fish to keep. These loaches need high water flow, and social groups of at least 4 or more. They should have a healthy supply of natural algae available, but will also need high-quality algae wafers and flakes.

    Other tank mates should be able to tolerate a more active and outgoing species. Though these loaches aren’t aggressive, other small and timid fish might be overwhelmed.

    17. Zebra Danio

    Zebra-Danio
    • Scientific Name: Danio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.0-2.0 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Active

    The zebra danio is a staple fish in the aquarium hobby. While they’re not the world’s smallest fish, they’re one of the most recognizable.

    The zebra danio originates from parts of Southeast Asia and especially prefers cold water temperatures. However, they have been successfully bred and adapted to the aquarium hobby for years and can now be kept in nearly every temperature range.

    These fish are extremely hardy and can be paired with most fish that fit inside their preferred temperature zone. Zebra danios prefer the upper portions of the water column, where they’ll zoom back and forth across the tank in their school. Smaller, less active tank mates should be avoided.

    ๐ŸŸ From my experience: Zebra danios were one of the first fish I kept and they remain one of the best starter fish in the hobby. Theyโ€™re incredibly hardy, active schoolers, and nearly bulletproof โ€” a great choice if youโ€™re new to nano tanks and want something forgiving.

    19. Gardneri Panchax Killifish

    • Scientific Name: Fundulopanchax gardneri
    • Adult Size: 2.0-2.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    One of the most colorful fish on this list, the Gardneri Panchax killifish grows well over one inch but can fill a small aquarium all on their own. Males are brighter in color, but both males and females feature bright green, orange, red, and blue coloration. These fish originate from unique marsh habitats that experience seasonal droughts throughout areas of Africa, like Nigeria and Cameroon.

    Because of their changing environment, these killifish are very hardy and do well in most aquarium setups. A tight aquarium hood is necessary.

    20. Scarlet Badis

    Scarlet Badis
    Scarlet Badis

    A great colorful nano fish. They are known for being semi-aggressive. Best if keep solo or in pairs

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    • Scientific Name: Dario dario
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful

    The scarlet badis is a perfect freshwater nano fish for hobbyists who prefer cichlid behavior. Badis are like mini-cichlids, just without the aggression!

    The scarlet badis is a colorful red and blue fish that originates from India and Bhutan. When ready, males and females form mating pairs. Males can become aggressive towards each other during these times, so it’s recommended to only keep one male and female per tank.

    Otherwise, scarlet badis are timid fish that will shy away from more active and overbearing species. They need plenty of plants and hiding spots to spawn and to feel safe. These fish also need a high-quality diet mixed with flake food and live food, but should not be overfed as they’re prone to obesity.

    21. Emerald Eye Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Rasbora dorsiocellata
    • Adult Size: 1.0 inch
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful

    Another less commonly known rasbora, the emerald eye rasbora is simple in color with a greenish-grey body and highlighted dorsal fin. These fish originate mainly from Thailand but can be found throughout flowing streams across Southeast Asia.

    Emerald eye rasboras have peaceful schooling behaviors. They do well as a background fish in a school of 6 or more but may be timid around more active species.

    Other Species

    There are two species listed below that are not available for aquariums and the others are often mentioned, but we ran out of space. Let me know in the comments if we missed any fish and I’ll add them to the list.

    • Midget dwarf goby
    • Corfu dwarf goby
    • Celestial pearl danio (AKA Galaxy Rasboras)
    • Mosquito rasboras
    • Bettas (AKA Siamese Fighting Fish) – They can live in small tanks but aren’t small themselves)
    • Harlequin Rasbora – popular, but too big to be considered for this list

    Conclusion

    Wanting to keep the smallest fish in the world in the smallest aquarium possible? Many species of fish stay under an inch long, and even more stay under 2 inches long. Most species of small fish don’t require any special considerations in terms of aquarium requirements, but some may be more easily intimidated by larger and more active species than others.

    It’s also important to keep in mind that many small fish are jumpers, so a tight aquarium lid is necessary!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Fish for a 55 Gallon Tank: My 21 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Fish for a 55 Gallon Tank: My 21 Picks After Years in the Aquarium Trade

    Iโ€™ve personally cared for nearly every fish on this list through my years working at local fish stores, so I can tell you firsthand which ones thrive in a 55-gallon setup and which ones cause problems. A 55-gallon tank is a fantastic size โ€” it opens the door to impressive centerpiece fish and schooling communities alike, but that wide range of options is exactly where most fishkeepers go wrong. In this guide, Iโ€™ll share my top 21 picks, along with the stocking mistakes I see most often so you can avoid them.

    Key Takeaways

    • There are hundreds of different fish species that you can keep in a 55-gallon tank
    • This tank size is a great choice for large, single-fish setups like oscar aquariums or a busy community aquarium filled with plants and colorful nano fish.
    • Tank size is not the only factor when choosing fish. Take note of each species’s water parameter requirements and select fish that will thrive in your local water.

    Best Freshwater Fish For 55 Gallon Tanks

    Let’s start our list right away. You can check out this video from our official YouTube Channel while following along on this blog post. If you like our content be sure to subscribe!

    1. Freshwater Angelfish

    Altum Angelfish
    • Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful but may be aggressive when breeding and will eat nano fish
    • Adult fish size: 6 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Mid-level
    • Type: Centerpiece

    Freshwater angelfish are some of the most beautiful and elegant fish in the hobby and they can thrive in a standard four-foot aquarium. These stunning South American Cichlids are available in a range of different breeds, ranging from pure white to black, and even multicolored.

    A pair of angelfish in a 55 gallon planted tank is usually a great idea, just be aware that these fish can show some territorial behavior around breeding time, and they will snack on nano fish when they can catch them.

    ๐Ÿ† My top pick for a 55-gallon centerpiece: If I were setting up a 55-gallon freshwater community tank, angelfish would be my first choice. A pair in a well-planted setup is genuinely stunning โ€” Iโ€™ve seen this work beautifully countless times through my years in the aquarium trade. Just plan your community around them from the start, and avoid adding nano fish as tank mates.

    2. Congo Tetra

    Congo-Tetra
    • Scientific name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle and upper levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    The Congo tetra is a beautiful African schooling fish that is ideal for larger aquariums. Males are neon blue with an orange horizontal stripe and interesting pointed tail fins. Females have a classy gold/silvery color with shorter tails and more compact dorsal fins.

    A school of six or more fish will add variety and heaps of movement to the water column of your 55-gallon tank.

    3. African Cichlids

    African-Cichlids
    • Scientific name: Various
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: Various
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 1.5 – 5 inches
    • Origin: East Africa
    • Temperature: 77-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5-9
    • Diet: Species dependant
    • Swim Level: Lower and middle levels
    • Type: Centerpiece fish

    A four-foot tank is just large enough for an African cichlid setup, although it’s important to choose the right species to minimize territorial disputes and provide the hard, high-pH water these fish require.

    Smaller mbuna cichlids like yellow labs or other smaller species like shell dwellers are ideal for this tank size, although you could also start a breeding group of a slightly larger species like one of the smaller peacocks.

    4. Synodontis Catfish

    Synodontis-Catfish
    • Scientific name: Synodontis spp.
    • Care level: Easy-moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 30-50 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 4-8 inches
    • Origin: East Africa
    • Temperature: 74-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Bottom
    • Type: Bottom dweller

    There are several species of Synodontis catfish available in the aquarium hobby, and these interesting fish are especially popular as bottom-dwelling tankmates in an African cichlid tank.

    Of course, you could keep these bottom-dwelling fish with other suitable tank mates, but avoid small, slow-moving species that might turn into lunch. Synodontis catfish prefer the company of their own kind, so pick up a school of four or more.

    5. Discus

    Discus In An Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Symphysodon discus
    • Care level: Advanced
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons (75+ is better)
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 5-6 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 82-89ยฐF
    • pH: 6-6.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    It is possible to keep discus cichlids in a tank as small as 55 gallons, but I must emphasize that you’re going to need to stay dedicated to maintain their water quality!

    So, if you’ve always dreamed of keeping the ‘king of the aquarium’ but you don’t have space for a bigger tank, you could attempt this species. Be prepared to perform frequent water changes to keep these delicate fish happy and healthy.

    6. Corydoras Catfish

    Habrosus Cory Catfish
    Habrosus Cory Catfish

    A small and active cory catfish. Does best in groups of at least 5

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    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons for most species
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 2-3 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 74-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Bottom
    • Type: Bottom dweller

    Corydoras catfish can be kept in tanks as small as 30 gallons, although a four-foot tank will allow you to keep a larger school or even a few different species. These peaceful fish hang out on the bottom of the tank and they love to search the substrate for leftover food scraps.

    There are many different types, including panda cories, Sterbai cories, and even albino breeds, but these social fish really need the company of their own kind. Pick up a school of at least 5 of the same species and provide a sinking bottom feeder tablet to keep them in good health.

    7. Ram Cichlids

    Golden Ram Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
    • Care level: Moderate – Advanced
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 2.5 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 78-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Lower levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    The ram is a colorful dwarf cichlid from South America. These gorgeous fish are relatively shy and sensitive for a cichlid, but they can make a great addition to a 55-gallon aquarium.

    Ram cichlids hang out at the bottom of the tank and sift through the substrate in search of a meal, so a sand substrate is ideal. These tropical fish require warm water, so set your heater in the low 80s to recreate their natural habitat.

    8. Neon Tetras

    Neon Tetra
    Neon Tetra

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    One of the most popular freshwater community schooling fish available in the aquarium trade. Great neon blue colors!

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    • Scientific name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 1.5 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Who says you can’t keep small fish in a big tank? The neon tetra is a classic community fish that will thrive in a large aquarium filled with live plants and other small peaceful species. These fish look their best in a large school, so a 55-gallon is ideal for the species.

    9. Small to Mid-sized Plecos

    Clown-Pleco
    • Scientific name: Ancistrus spp., Hypancistrus spp. Panaqolas spp. etc.
    • Care level: Easy-Advanced
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 3-6 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: Species dependant. Some prefer low 70s Fahrenheit while others prefer mid-80s
    • pH: Slightly acidic-slightly basic (Most species will do well in neutral conditions)
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • Swim Level: Bottom
    • Type: Bottom dweller

    There are well over a hundred pleco species, some of which grow to more than a foot in length. However, there are many species in the hobby that are perfectly sized for a 55-gallon tank, and some will even help you keep algae under control.

    These peaceful bottom dwellers are safe to keep with smaller fish, although they can also hold their own with medium-sized fish in community tanks. Include plenty of rocks and driftwood to create a natural environment with plenty of hiding spaces and food sources.

    10. Geophagus

    Geophagus
    • Scientific name: Geophagus spp., Satanoperca spp., etc.
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons for smaller species
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 6+ inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: Species-dependant
    • pH: Species-dependant
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Swim Level: Lower levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    Geophagus are colorful South American cichlids characterized by their unique feeding style. These medium to large fish sift through the substrate in search of food, so they are not ideal fish for a carefully aquascaped tank!

    Keep geophagus cichlids on a fine sandy substrate and choose smaller species that grow to about 6 inches or smaller (e.g., Geophagus tapajos).

    11. Rainbowfish

    Lake-Tebera-fish
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia spp.
    • Care level: Easy-moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 2-6 inches
    • Origin: Australia and Indonesia
    • Temperature: 74-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Rainbowfish are peaceful, schooling fish that will add color and movement to your 55-gallon aquarium. These fish have an interesting body shape, and there are many amazing species to choose from, including the popular Boesmani rainbow and the smaller dwarf neon rainbow.

    Check out my guide to 15 popular rainbowfish types to find the perfect species for your tank!

    12. Convict Cichlids

    Convict Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Amatitlania nigrofasciata
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 3.5 – 6 inches
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 74-84ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Lower levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    Named for its grey color and vertical black stripes, the convict cichlid looks like it belongs in a prison! In fact, these South American cichlids are excellent fish for a 55-gallon aquarium, and they’re super easy to breed! In fact, these fish spawn so much that you may want to choose another species if you aren’t up for raising their tiny fry.

    13. Tiger Barbs

    Tiger-Barb
    • Scientific name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 3 inches
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Named for its orange body color and four vertical black stripes, the tiger barb is an attractive schooling fish from Southeast Asia. These active barbs have a reputation for nipping other fish, although they tend to behave a lot better when kept in large schools of 15 or more.

    Tiger barbs can be kept with many bottom-dwellers and fast-moving schooling fish, just avoid any slow-moving tankmates or fish with long, flowing fins. A Southeast Asian Biotope with tiger barbs, loaches, and a single red-tailed shark could make an interesting 55-gallon setup.

    14. Rainbow Cichlid

    Rainbow Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Herotilapia multispinosa
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Relatively peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 4-5 inches
    • Origin: Central America
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Lower levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    The rainbow cichlid is a beautiful Central American fish that is relatively peaceful as far as cichlids go. That being said, fish from the cichlid family are generally not recommended for the general community tank.

    These fish have a beautiful golden color with a prominent black streak along each side that may be broken into blotches. A pair of rainbow cichlids would be an excellent choice for a planted 55-gallon tank with suitable tankmates.

    15. Dension Barb

    Dension Barb Swimming
    • Scientific name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 4 inches
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 59-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Also known as the roseline shark, denison barbs are one of the best-looking barbs in the hobby. These speedy schooling fish combine sleek lines and silvery scales with a bright red streak and yellow tail spots.

    Due to their size and active nature, a 55-gallon tank provides just enough swimming space for a small school (6+) of these peaceful freshwater fish. Denison barbs enjoy cooler water temperatures, so factor that in when selecting tank mates.

    16. Electric Blue Acara

    How Does An Electric Blue Acara Look Like
    • Scientific name: Andinoacara pulcher
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 6-7 inches
    • Origin: Trinidad and Venezuela
    • Temperature: 74-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Lower half
    • Type: Centerpiece

    The electric blue acara is a particularly colorful breed of the regular blue acara and a favorite species in the aquarium hobby. These active South American cichlids add amazing color to a 55-gallon tank and their personality traits make them compatible with a wide variety of species, including other cichlids like angel fish and geophagus.

    17. Giant Danio

    Giant Danio in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Devario malabaricus
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 40 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 6 inches
    • Origin: India and Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 65-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: Middle and upper levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    You probably know danios as tiny nano fish, but one species, the giant danio, doesn’t fit that category.

    The giant danio is a beautiful fish, with gold to orange stripes on a cobalt blue body. These fast-swimming schoolers can reach over 6 inches, so a 55-gallon tank will provide just enough swimming space for a small group.

    18. Fancy Goldfish

    Fancy Goldfish For Sale
    • Scientific name: Carassius auratus
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 20-30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 6-8 inches
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Temperature: 65-72ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Swim Level: All levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    Goldfish are peaceful, long-lived pets with heaps of personality and various breeds to choose from. Fancy goldfish have been selectively bred into some surprising shapes and colors, including black moors, ranchus, and ryukins.

    Many people associate goldfish with small glass bowls, although these fish actually need plenty of space. A 55-gallon tank is a great size for three or four adult fancy goldfish.

    Check out my guide to 12 fancy goldfish types to find the perfect breeds for your tank!

    19. Rosy Barbs

    Rosy Barb
    • Scientific name: Pethia conchonius
    • Care level: Easy
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 3-4 inches
    • Origin: Southern Asia
    • Temperature: 64-72ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Swim Level: All levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Rosy barbs are peaceful schooling fish that prefer cool water aquariums. These fish have a golden-orange color, and males tend to be more colorful than females. Long-finned varieties are also available in the aquarium hobby.

    A small school of these medium-sized fish will do well with many small to medium-sized community fish that enjoy the same conditions.

    20. Female Bettas

    Female-Betta
    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive/aggressive
    • Adult fish size: 2.5 inches
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Temperature: 76-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Swim Level: All levels
    • Type: Centerpiece

    The most popular way to keep betta fish is to house a single male alone in a small aquarium. However, you may be surprised to learn that some aquarists successfully keep multiple female bettas together in the same tank.

    This is known as a betta sorority tank, and it’s an interesting option for a 55-gallon aquarium. A sorority tank is not an ideal choice for a beginner, however, and the trick is to keep only females and a minimum group size of four to spread out aggression.

    21. Mollies

    Mollies
    • Scientific name: Poecilia spp.
    • Care level: Moderate
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Adult fish size: 3-6 inches depending on the species
    • Origin: North, Central, and South America
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Swim Level: Middle levels
    • Type: Schooling fish

    Mollies are medium-sized livebearers that are ideal for a 55-gallon aquarium. These interesting fish are highly adaptable and can even thrive in a saltwater tank, although they are usually kept in hard, freshwater aquariums.

    There are three popular molly species, and they have been hybridized and bred into many beautiful colors and varieties, including the popular balloon molly and various other fancy breeds. Mollies get along with many other peaceful fish and can be kept in a community tank or a dedicated livebearer tank with guppies and other similar species.

    โš ๏ธ The biggest stocking mistake I see with 55-gallon tanks: Fishkeepers constantly underestimate how much aggression and size differences matter. Adding a small, peaceful species to a tank with a larger or semi-aggressive fish almost always ends badly โ€” Iโ€™ve seen it play out dozens of times. Research the adult size and temperament of every fish before mixing species, and when in doubt, stick to fish with similar size and temperament profiles.

    Other Options

    All the fish mentioned in this guide are excellent options for a 55-gallon setup, although there are hundreds of other species that will thrive in this versatile tank size. I’ve narrowed this list down to just 21 options but you can get much more inspiration by exploring some of my other helpful guides.

    Looking for more species? Check out the following posts!

    What fish can you put in a 55-gallon fish tank?

    55-gallon tanks are big enough for most of the popular freshwater aquarium fish sold in fish stores, and there are hundreds of options. Of course, you will need to create a suitable habitat and provide appropriate water parameters for whichever fish you plan to keep.

    What is the largest fish for a 55-gallon tank?

    New World cichlids like Oscars and Jack Dempseys are about the largest fish you can keep in a 55-gallon, although they would prefer a larger tank when fully grown.

    How do you stock a 55-gallon tank?

    Start with your water parameters when stocking a new aquarium. If your water is naturally hard, you may have the ideal conditions for a livebearer tank or for smaller African Cichlids like yellow labs. Soft water is ideal for many tropical South American, Southeast Asian, or West African fish.

    If you’re creating a community tank with several different fish species, make sure each fish will be comfortable in the water conditions you have and attempt to create the kind of habitat they prefer in nature.

    Consider using a calculator like AqAdvisor for help on research.

    How many fish can you have in a 55-gallon tank?

    The total number of fish you can keep will depend on the size and requirements of the fish species. You could keep just a single large species like an adult Jack Dempsey cichlid, or choose a large school (dozens) of nano fish like chili rasboras or ember tetras if you want more fish.

    What can I put in a 55-gallon tank besides fish?

    Fish aren’t the only animals you can keep in a 55-gallon tank. You can also keep freshwater invertebrates like shrimp and snails, amphibians like axolotls and African dwarf frogs, or even small turtle species.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing the right fish for an aquarium is an exciting but challenging task. Whether you’re considering a 55-gallon tank, or just researching the next fish to add to your existing setup, rest assured that all the fish discussed in this guide will work with the right care.

    Do you have a 55-gallon aquarium? Tell us about your setup in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.