Author: Mark Valderrama

  • 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    I’ve kept bettas for years and always found that the right plants make a huge difference โ€” not just aesthetically, but for the fish’s actual wellbeing. Bettas love to rest on broad leaves, hide among stems, and explore a tank that feels like natural habitat. The tricky part is that betta tanks are often low-tech setups, so you need plants that can thrive without CO2 or high-end lighting. These are the plants I’ve personally grown in betta tanks and recommend without hesitation.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming the brown thumbs. Iโ€™ve personally grown several of these plants in betta tanks I’ve kept and seen others in real world scenarios to determine the best plants for betta fish tanks.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Java Fern
    Java Fern
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    • Adaptable plant
    • Easy to care
    Easy To Maintain
    Anubias Nana
    Anubias Nana
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    • Slow growth
    • Stately laves
    Budget Friendly
    Marimo Moss Balls
    Marimo Moss Balls
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    • Cheap
    • Works great in small spaces

    Let’s cut to the chase with my top picks. The best plant to try for a betta tank is easily the Java Fern. It is available every, you can even get some cuttings from another betta keeper. They are very adaptable plants and easy to maintain.

    Next up we have Anubias. This plant grows stately leaves and is a slow grower, which means you won’t have to prune as much. Like the Java Fern, it is adaptable and hardy. Easy to find as well. The budget option would be the Marimo Moss Balls. While not as easy to find now, it can fit in the smallest of spaces and does a good job of filtering the tank.

    The 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish

    Let’s go over the best plants for betta fish below. I included a video from our channel for visual learners. I go into further detail below. If you like our content, give us a like and sub on our YouTube channel.

    1. Java Fern

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

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    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus / Leptochilus pteropus
    • Common Name: Java Fern
    • Origin: Widely distributed in Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-Moderate, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java Fern is an amazing first time planted tank owner. A betta fish tends to be one of the first fish a beginner owns. Java Fern is also a great beginning plant that will be forgiving to many of the newbie mistakes one can make.

    Java fern is a great low light / low energy plant tolerates a wide temperature range and requires no CO2 to grow. It is readily available at most stores and is very affordable. It is the best plant to start with if you want to decorate a betta fish tank and still have a very hardy plant.

    2. Anubias

    Great Beginner Plant
    Anubias Nana
    Anubias Nana

    Hardy, forgiving and easy to grow. The Anubias Nana is your ticket to the incredible hobby that is aquascaping!

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    • Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana
    • Common Name: Dwarf anubias, nana anubias, petite anubias
    • Origin: Cameroon, equatorial West Africa
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anubias is an amazing plant that not only offers a forgiving plant, but has leaves large enough to serve as a hammock. It also comes in multiple varieties and leaf sizes where you purchase the size most appropriate for your betta tank.

    Anubias Barteri is the traditional Anubias with large leaves while Anubias Nana and Anubias Petite are best used in smaller fish tanks. This aquatic plant is very forgiving, will grow in low light, and grows with no CO2. The main issue with this plant is that it grows slow. Because it grows slow, it is prone to algae overtaking its leaves. Consider wiping algae from its leaves or recruiting algae eaters to maintain its health.

    3. Marimo Moss Balls

    Marimo Moss Balls
    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Common Name: Moss balls
    • Origin: Japan
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 78 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for an easy-to-care-for aquatic plant (well actually it isn’t really a plant – it’s algae)? Look no further than the Marimo Moss Ball! This spherical algae ball thrives in any aquarium and grows at a rate of just 5mm per year. As if that wasn’t low maintenance enough, the Marimo Moss Ball is also extremely tolerant to most water conditions.

    Being algae, it does an amazing job of acting as a natural filter for your Betta tank. It will consume ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in the aquarium. You also can cut them into mats and glue to driftwood and rocks for a moss like appearance. It’s a great plant (algae) to try! So why not add a splash of greenery to your underwater oasis?

    4. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    Low Tech Plant!
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii
    • Common Name: Wendtโ€™s water trumpet, Wendtโ€™s cryptocoryne, Wendtโ€™s crypt
    • Origin: Sri Lanka, Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-high, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii is one of the few rooted plants that work well in Betta tanks. It is a great option for beginners. This easy to grow plant grows at a moderate rate, and can be grown both submerged and emersed. Propagation is also easy – done by simply cutting off new plantlets growing from the mother rhizome.

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii can also grow in a variety of light doing well in high low and low light environments. If you are looking for a rooted plant, this is once of the best suited plants for a betta fish.

    5. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite
    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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    • Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
    • Common Name: Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern
    • Origin: Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate 30-80 PAR (umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Water Sprite is a popular, fast-growing stem plant that is extremely easy to care for and suitable for beginners. It can grow to a very tall background plant but with frequent pruning, the plant can stay compact and low growing. Like the Marimo Moss balls, it does a great job functioning as a natural filter as it will soak up nutrients

    Water Sprite can also be placed floating on top or sit submerged in water and they’ll still be happy. Just remember that if you let you have them floating the plants underneath can get too much shade, so choose only low light species for any plant that tries to grow below it.

    can be cut and replanted for propagation.

    6. Amazon Sword

    Amazon Sword
    Amazon Sword

    A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

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    • Scientific Name: Echinodorus amazonicus/ Echinodorus bleheri/ Echinodorus grisebachii
    • Common Name: Amazon sword
    • Origin: Brazil, South America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Amazon sword plants are a great choice for the aquarium hobbyist, being that they’re easy to care for and offer attractive coverage. They grow in an elegant rosette with long leaves that have wavy edges along their pointing tips (and sometimes rounded). The dark or bright green coloration makes the amazon sword stand out amongst other plant life in your setup–a must-have if you want something ornamental!

    Keep in mind that amazon swords grow very tall. They may not be the best choice in smaller tanks, but in tall and medium sized tanks they do very well.

    7. Vallisneria

    Vallisneria
    Vallisneria

    One of the easiest background placement aquarium plants that can be kept. Provides excellent shelter for fish

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    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria
    • Common Name: Val, Eelgrass, Tape Grass, Jungle Val
    • Origin: Africa, North America, South America, Asia, Australia, Europe
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-200PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 59 โ€“ 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Vallisneria is a tall, thin leaf plant that creates a lush, jungle-like appearance in your aquarium. This fast-growing plant anchors deeply into the substrate and thrives on nutrients, making it an ideal choice for any aquarium setup.

    The main issue with this plant when it comes to betta fish is that it prefers a strong current. However, the tall nature of the plant can actually buffer flow for your pet fish so both plant and fish can have their needs met.

    8. Banana Plant

    Banana Plant
    Banana Plant

    A unique looking plant that can be used floating or attached to hardscape.

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    • Scientific Name: Nymphoides aquatica
    • Common Name: Banana Plant
    • Origin: Southeastern United States
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Medium-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 81 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for a unique addition to your aquarium? Look no further than the banana plant! Banana Plants are a great addition to any aquarium! These plants are easy to care for, and add a delightful detail to your tank. With long stems and light to dark green leaves, these plants look just like a bunch of bananas.

    These beautiful plants quickly grow tall and will float like lily pads on the surface of your tank. Make sure to prune the leaves occasionally to avoid restricting light to other plants, or bury the stem in the substrate to keep it anchored.

    9. Java Moss

    Java Moss
    Java Moss

    One of the easiest mosses to grow in an aquarium. Great for small fish and shrimp

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    • Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
    • Common Name: Java moss
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-High, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java moss is a unique and versatile aquarium plant that has become one of the most popular mosses used in planted tanks. Its deep green hue and thin fronds make it an ideal choice for enthusiasts of all levels, and Java Moss can be utilized to recreate a variety of styles in a planted tank.

    Java moss is an excellent addition to any aquarium. Its soft, green fronds provide valuable coverage for fry and can help to create an aged look that enthusiasts of all skill levels enjoy. Java moss can also be used in breeding projects and is perfect for wrapping aquascaping rocks or driftwood.

    10. Bucephalandra 

    Bucephalandra
    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

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    • Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
    • Common Name: Buce plant, Buceps
    • Origin: Borneo, Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy, moderate
    • Light Level: Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 71 – 79 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended

    If you’re looking for an easy plant to start with, look no further than Bucephalandra. These unusual plants come from Southeast Asia, where they grow in shallow water on rocks and driftwood. There’s already a huge variety of cultivars and varieties available, so you’re sure to find the perfect one for your tank. With their broad leaves and beautiful flowers, Bucephalandra are sure to turn heads (and make your fish happy too).

    This aquatic gem can be grown submerged or immersed, making it perfect for beginners. It’s also very slow growing, so you won’t have to worry about it taking over your tank. And if you want to propagate it, it’s easy to do โ€“ just cut the rhizome and attach it to driftwood or rocks using super glue gel or thread.

    11. Anacharis

    Anacharis
    Anacharis

    Excellent as a food source and sucks up nutrients in an aquarium. One of the easiest freshwater plants to care for

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    • Scientific Name: Egeria densa, Elodea densa
    • Common Name: Anacharis, Elodea, Giant Elodea, Brazilian Elodea, Brazilian Water Weed
    • Origin: South America, Brazil, Uraguay, Argentina, Introduced widely
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 50 – 77 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anacharis, also known as Egeria Densa, is one of the easiest aquatic plants to keep and highly suitable for beginners thanks to its lack of care requirements. It can be kept free floating in the aquarium or anchored into the substrate depending on preference. Although it prefers cooler water temperatures, it can survive in warm water as well.

    Anacharis is arguably considered the hardiest aquarium plant you can purchase in the trade and handles a variety of conditions. If this is your first time trying live plants, I recommend giving Anacharis a try โ€“ you wonโ€™t be disappointed!

    The Challenge

    Keeping aquarium plants with a Betta fish is a different compared compared to most schooling fish you would put in a planted tank. While they aren’t destructive and will not eat your plants, they have specific requirements that make certain plants a better fit for them than others. Let’s go over these specific needs.

    Temperature

    The ideal temperature for a Betta fish is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of this, some plants may not be the best fit as they prefer a lower temperature. This also can made an aquascape style aquarium difficult to maintain as the growth of algae is accelerated with the higher temperatures.

    Knowing this, we will want to work with plants that are okay with the higher temperatures and consider ways to work with the increased algae growth, either by recruiting algae eaters, adding more plants, or getting comfortable with more maintenance to remove the algae.

    They Prefer A Low Light Level

    Betta fish are not comfortable in a high energy high light planted tank. This makes them unsuitable for some types of high end aquascape environments. You can place a Betta fish if you shade with driftwood, rocks, or floating plants.

    Because of this, Betta fish are most compatible with low light plants that do not need a high intensity light level to grow.

    They Prefer Low Flow

    Because most Betta fish are slower moving, they do best in an environment with low flow. Purchasing plants that do well in a low flow environment is ideal in a betta tank. You can also mitigate flow by using floating plants or suppressing your return lines with a spray bar or a sponge.

    Small Tanks

    Many Betta fish owners will place their pets in either a 5 gallon or 10 gallon fish tank. A 5 gallon fish tank is ideal for a single betta while a 10 gallon is where you have enough space to start adding other tank mates like corydoras catfish.

    Because we tend to work with smaller tanks with Bettas, large plants will usually be avoided. We will also look at smaller sub species of plants if they are available.

    Bettas Like To Lounge

    Bettas love to rest on plants. They tend to enjoy floating plants and plants with large leaves so they can lay and lounge on them. Plants like grasses may look good in an aquarium, but won’t serve much utility for your Betta.

    Live Plant Alternatives

    Live plants are great for their benefits and natural setting for your betta fish. However, not everyone wants aquatics plants and not everyone wants to do with the maintenance issues that come with it. Let’s talk about some alternatives.

    Fake Plants

    Fake or artificial plants are a great way to give your betta fish shelter without having to deal with plant maintenance. However, not every artificial plant is a good candidate for your fish. You want to have leaves that have smooth surface and that won’t have rough edges. This will rule our more plastic plants you will find in pet stores.

    You should look to purchase silk plants for a betta fish tank. Marina makes a great line of artificial plants called marine naturals that I would highly recommend.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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    Aquarium Rocks – Decor Options

    Aquarium rocks serve as a great backdrop in a betta fish tank. Like with fake plants, you will want to make sure your rocks do not have jagged or sharp edges. The classic Seiryu stones are great for aquascaping that work well with bettas as long as you check the surfaces (and smooth out any rough surfaces if need.

    Traditional Seiryu Stone
    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua

    If you want another option, you can try out these Betta caves. Betta enjoy places they can hide and lounge on. Putting one of these in place is a good option especially if you have an all-in-one tank as the fish like to hang by the overflow to hide when they lack a safe space.

    SunGrow Betta Caves
    SunGrow Betta Caves

    These Coconut shells are ideal Betta fish homes. Smooth to the touch, these will not damage your Bettas delicate fins

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    Fake VS Real – What Is Better?

    You will hear this debate often from a simplicity standpoint. Let’s take a look at a comparison of having either or so you can make the most informed decision.

    Live

    Plants are the best to add because they enhance the natural environment of your fish and help to filter our nitrates and phosphates in your aquarium. However, fake plants offers ease of maintenance. Let us look at other pros and cons below:

    Pros

    • Removes nitrates from the water
    • Provides oxygen to the fish
    • Source of entertainment for betta
    • Looks great in the tank
    • Offers a place to hide in

    Cons

    • A plant that requires substrate will require specialized soil
    • Increase tank maintenance
    • A slow-growing plants may develop algae issues due to lack of clean up crews

    Fake Decor

    Fake plants are a good option if you don’t want to prune or maintain aquatic plants. They can also look good if care is taken when choosing the right designs. Here are the pros and cons of using plant imitations in your tank. I got a video from Aquarium Show that discusses silk vs plastic plants as a reminder that silk plants are superior for betta fish.

    Pros

    • Looks great
    • Easy to maintain
    • Offers shelter for your fish

    Cons

    • Some fake plants be expensive
    • There are no benefits to the tank besides contributing to the aesthetics
    • Plastic plants are ill suited for a betta fish

    FAQS

    Do they need plants in their tank?

    No, betta fish don’t require plants in their tank. However, plants will help to clean the water and provide a hiding place for the fish. Plants provide a natural environment for bettas and also help to oxygenate the aquarium water. They also lower stress that can extend the lifespan of your Betta.

    Some good plant choices for a betta tank include Anubias barteri and Java fern. These plants are easy to care for and can thrive in low aquarium light conditions.

    Are real plants good for them?

    Yes, real plants are good for betta fish. They provide them with hiding places and help oxygenate the water. Live plants also help keep the water clean and free of algae by out competing them for nutrients when planted in mass.

    Can I put a bamboo plant in my betta tank?

    Yes, you can. Bamboo plants are a good choice for betta tanks because they produce fresh oxygen and help to reduce the levels of ammonia and carbon dioxide in the water. They also act as a natural filter, helping to remove harmful toxins from the water.

    If you’re using a live bamboo plant in your tank, be sure to add some aquarium gravel or other substrate to the pot to anchor it down. You’ll also need to make sure that the plant is getting enough light – place it near a window or use a grow light if necessary. And finally, be sure to regularly clean the leaves of your bamboo plant with fish safe algae cleaner, a tooth brush, or mild soap and water.

    Are plastic plants OK?

    Plastic plants are non-toxic to betta fish, but generally are not okay for them. This is because plastic plants can have frayed edges that can tear the fins of fancier Betta types. To be on the safe side, consider purchasing artificial plants with smooth edges like silk plants.

    What kind of plants do they like?

    Betta fish like floating plants and large leaves because they provide them with hiding places and places to rest. They also like aquarium plants that are rich in oxygen, so they can get the oxygen they need to breathe. Java fern, Anubias, Hornwort, and Water sprite are all good choices.

    Closing Thoughts

    Betta fish are a unique and interesting addition to any planted tank, but they do have specific needs that should be taken into account when choosing betta fish plants. By understanding what these needs are, you can create or choose a planted tank that is perfect for your betta and will keep them healthy and happy. Have you ever kept aquarium plants specifically with a betta fish in mind? What plants did you choose and why? Let us know in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Japanese rice fish โ€” also called medaka โ€” don’t get nearly enough attention in the aquarium hobby, and I think that’s a shame. They’re one of the hardiest nano fish you can keep, tolerating a wide range of temperatures, which makes them excellent candidates for unheated tanks or even outdoor tub ponds in warmer climates. What really gets me about these fish is the sheer variety of color morphs that have been developed, especially in Japan where medaka breeding is a serious hobby unto itself. If you’re looking for a peaceful, easy-to-breed nano fish that actually rewards careful husbandry, rice fish are worth a serious look.

    The Japanese rice fish (Oryzias latipes) is a peaceful nano species that is becoming increasingly popular among aquarists. These fish are highly underrated in the hobby, being one of the hardiest coldwater nano fish choices.

    Brief Overview of the Japanese Rice Fish

    Scientific NameOryzias latipes
    Common NamesJapanese rice fish, Japanese killifish, Medaka
    FamilyAdrianichthyidae
    OriginJapan, China, Vietnam, Laos, Taiwan, & Korea
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan2-5 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMidwater, Top
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range61ยฐF โ€“ 75ยฐF
    Water Hardness5-25 dKH
    pH Range7.0 โ€“ 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater, Brackish water
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilitySpecies-only tank or community tank 
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Japanese Rice Fish Origins and Habitat

    Japanese rice fish are small schooling fish that are native to Southeast Asia from eastern China and eastern Korea to Japan and Vietnam. Phylogenetic analysis has shown that there are actually 33 closely related species in the genus Oryzias.

    The Japanese rice fish has a rich history in the aquarium hobby. They have been a favorite among Asian aquarists for centuries! These celebrated fish look amazing when viewed from above, which was important before glass fish tanks became available.

    Rice fish are highly adaptable fish that are found in a variety of habitats like rice paddies and shallow rivers. They occur naturally in both freshwater, and brackish water where fresh and saltwater mix according to the tides. Check out the video above from my YouTube channel. There is more information on this post so let’s keep reading on!

    What Do They Look Like?

    Japanese Rice Fish in Planted Tank

    The first thing you might notice about rice fish is that they are almost transparent! They also have beautiful big blue eyes.

    Japanese rice fish have been selectively bred to produce beautiful and fairly stable color varieties. There are hundreds of known rice fish breeds, but the following types are most accessible in the hobby.

    • Pink Medaka Rice Fish

    This variety is one of the most colorful ricefish available in the hobby. The Pink Medaka Rice Fish have an orange-pink body color that brings life to any fish tank.

    • Galaxy Medaka

    The galaxy rice fish has a whitish body color. Under good lighting, their scales shine like a rainbow. Like other rice fish varieties, these fish look almost transparent.

    • Red Cap Medaka

    This stunning color form of the Japanese rice fish has an orange/red crown and back that merges into its pearl-colored body. This combination of color contrasts amazingly with their bright blue eyes.

    • Yokihi Medaka Rice Fish

    The Yokihi medaka is a rare breed with beautiful deep orange coloration.

    Other Ricefish Species

    • Javanese Medaka Rice Fish

    The Javanese rice fish (Oryzias javanicus) is actually a different species from the Japanese rice fish. These beautiful little fish are from more tropical areas and are suitable for heated tropical fish tanks. It can be told from the Japanese rice fish by its deeper body shape and pointed tail fin.

    • Woworae Medaka Rice Fish

    The woworae, or Daisy’s blue rice fish (Oryzias woworae) is one of the most colorful tropical Asian medakas in the genus Oryzias. This awesome little nano species wows fishkeepers with its bright orange body trim and pectoral fins. The males, in particular, have a beautiful blue glowing body color, although both sexes boast bright blue eyes.

    How Big Are They

    Medaka are very small fish that reach a maximum length of between 1 and 1.4 inches. Their small size and hardiness make them great fish for nano tanks.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Rice fish, like most nano species, are not particularly long-lived fish. With good care, however, these fish can live for as long as 5 years. The most important factors that affect the longevity of your fish are:

    • Water quality
    • Water temperature and parameters
    • Feeding
    • Disease & stress prevention

    Fish Temperament and Activity Level

    medaka fish

    Japanese ricefish are relatively active little fish that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. It is best to keep your ricefish in a group of at least 8.

    They are not shy if kept in a comfortable environment and will usually be found schooling together in an open area of the tank outside of the current created by your filter. Rice fish are very peaceful, so you don’t have to worry about any bad behavior in a community fish tank.

    Interestingly, the hardy and adaptable nature of these fish have made them a popular model for scientific research and education. Believe it or not, they were the first vertebrate species to be bred in space!1

    What Are Good Tank Mates for Them?

    Japanese rice fish are very peaceful creatures that get along great with other species of fish in a community tank. They are very small, so it’s important to avoid larger fish that might see them as dinner.

    Choosing fish that are similar or the same size is the best way to avoid any disappearances, but there are other factors you need to consider when planning a peaceful community.

    Firstly, Japanese ricefish are considered cold water fish, so they should not be kept in water temperatures higher than the mid-70s. They may survive in a tropical setup, but their lifespan will probably be reduced, so keep them on the cooler side.

    The fact that they thrive in cooler water temperatures is actually a real bonus for aquarists looking to set up a cold water community tank. Let’s take a look at some of the freshwater fish species that you can keep with medaka.

    Best Tank Mates

    Least Compatible Fish for Companions

    What Do They Eat?

    Ricefish are not very picky when it comes to diet. The most important factor to consider is their small size.

    Ricefish can be fed a diet of dried prepared foods like pellets, granules, or flakes. Flakes can easily be crushed up, but harder foods like pellets need to be very small.

    Rice fish are said to be omnivorous, which means they are both animal and plant eaters. Small insects and other tiny animals are an important component of their diet, and these should be provided as a supplement to keep them in great health. This is also very important to bring your ricefish into top breeding condition. A good staple food to try would be Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula.

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

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    Here are a few great supplementary frozen and live foods that you can provide:

    • Blood worms
    • Brineshrimp
    • Daphnia
    • Grindal worms
    • Small vegetables

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    Aquarists often make the mistake of overfeeding their pets. This can result in obesity, and more importantly, reduced water quality. So how do you know how much food to provide?

    Feeding them more than once a day is a great tip. Providing a small amount that they can finish in just a minute or so will prevent any uneaten food from sinking to the bottom or getting sucked into your filter.

    If your medaka fish are colorful, growing, healthy, and active, you know you’re keeping them well fed!

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Japanese ricefish are very easy to care for and will thrive in a variety of setups. In fact, many aquarists keep these hardy freshwater fish outdoors in ponds and containers.

    They will thrive in any setup that provides an environment that is similar to their natural habitat. In this section, you can learn how to set up a great tank for your rice fish, so let’s get started!

    Tank Size

    Rice fish are a nano species that can survive in aquariums as small as a few gallons or as big as outdoor ponds! I would recommend starting out with a tank of 10 gallons or larger, however, because this provides enough swimming space for a nice school while being stable enough to maintain water quality.

    More important than the size of the tank is its cover. These little jumpers can easily escape out of an open aquarium, so make sure it has a secure lid.

    Aquarium Plants

    Rice fish absolutely thrive in a planted aquarium. They feel more comfortable with floating plants on the water surface. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep medaka, without live plants, however.

    You might think growing live plants requires special lighting, equipment, and soils, but that doesn’t have to be the case.

    Start out with a few easy aquarium plants like Java ferns and anubias to green up your aquarium. These plants will grow under standard aquarium lighting if tied to your hardscape.

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    If you want to upgrade your tank into an amazing underwater aquascape, you can look at starting a tank with decent aquarium soil, good quality lights, and a pressurized CO2 injection system.

    Substrate

    A darker, natural colored substrate tends to bring out the best color in aquarium fish, and also makes them feel more at ease. Any aquarium-safe substrate can be used, however, since ricefish will not spend much time at the bottom of the tank.

    If you’re setting up a planted aquarium, starting out with a quality aquarium soil will provide the best results. Alternatively, a well-rinsed sand or gravel substrate will work great.

    Decor

    Arranging some rocks or driftwood in the aquarium is a great way to make a natural environment for all the fish, and a more attractive aquarium for you to look at too. Be sure to use clean, aquarium-safe materials and place them carefully to prevent any damage to the glass.

    Water Quality

    Keeping the water clean and safe is the next priority after setting up a great tank for your ricefish. The tank should be fully cycled before introducing the fish. Check out this article if you’d like to learn more about the aquarium cycle and why it’s so important.

    Let’s take a look at how to keep your cycled aquarium safe and healthy for your fish.

    Filtration

    Many aquarists will tell you a filter is not essential for keeping ricefish. I recommend good filtration for all aquariums just because they are so effective for maintaining the nitrogen cycle, aerating the water, and of course, filtering out particles and impurities in the water.

    A simple sponge filter works great, but if you plan on keeping many fish or a community setup, consider upgrading to a canister filter. Both of these filter types create very little flow, which is ideal for these freshwater fish that prefer living in calm water.

    Water Parameters

    One of the great things about ricefish is how hardy and adaptable they are. Chances are, the temperature in your home is very comfortable for them, and this means most keepers don’t need aquarium heaters.

    Here are the most important water parameters that you should maintain for your rice fish:

    • Water Temperature: 61ยฐF โ€“ 75ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Hardness: 5-25 dKH
    • Ammonia: 0 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Nitrate: < 20 ppm

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Keeping your aquarium clean and healthy is the most important thing you can do for your ricefish. Here are some of the steps you’ll need to take:

    • Perform a regular water change every week or two
    • Suck up uneaten aquarium fish food and waste from the substrate with your gravel vac
    • Clean your aquarium glass with an algae scraper when necessary
    • Rinse out your filter media with old tank water on a regular basis

    Test Tank Conditions

    The only way to really know if your water parameters are suitable for your ricefish is by testing your water regularly. This will also tell you if your maintenance schedule is up to scratch.

    Testing your water is easy with an aquarium test kit. These kits come in liquid or strip form and are easy (and fun) to use.

    Breeding

    Rice fish are easy to breed in the home aquarium. Read on to learn how (I’ve also provided a video from Aquaviva below)!

    Sexing

    Of course, you’re going to need both male and female ricefish if you want them to reproduce. But how do you know which sex they are? Here’s what to look for:

    • Adult female rice fish are usually larger than males
    • Females often carry eggs on their anal fins
    • Males tend to be more colorful
    • Males have a small bump on the body in front of the anal fins
    • Male ricefish also have longer rays in the dorsal and anal fin

    Getting Ricefish Ready to Breed

    Conditioning your fish is very important since unhealthy ricefish will produce fewer eggs, or they might not reproduce at all. Feed your fish a healthy diet of frozen and live food before you plan on breeding them to increase your success rate.

    The Breeding Process

    Once the female is in breeding condition, she will lay eggs every day for several weeks or even months. The male fertilizes them and then the adhesive eggs are deposited on fine-leaved plants like Java moss.

    Spawning mops made from green wool or synthetic fibers can also be used to simulate a live plant.

    Caring For Fry

    The fertilized eggs will hatch after 2 weeks or so. The fry will need to be fed infusoria or liquid fry foods due to their small size. Live plants and the tiny animals that grow on them can provide a great natural food source too.

    The fry are vulnerable to larger fish at this age, which is why spawning them in a dedicated spawning tank is the safest option. The fry grow quickly, however, and can reach maturity in less than 6 months.

    Health and Disease

    Japanese rice fish are very hardy, but there is always a chance that your fish may develop health problems. Read on to learn more about what to look out for.

    Evaluating Your Ricefishesโ€™ Health

    The easiest way to assess the health of your fish is to observe their physical characteristics and their behavior. Fish that are hiding, breathing rapidly, or have lost all of their usual colors are showing signs of stress.

    Flashing against the substrate, floating, or sinking are other common signs of distress. Observing your fish often will help you pick up problems early, and allow you to notice changes over time.

    Common Ricefish Health Issues

    Where To Buy

    You don’t have to travel to Japan to get your own beautiful medaka rice fish. Sure, they aren’t always the easiest fish to find at your local pet store, but in today’s world of online fish stores, that’s no problem at all! You can click the link below to check out the variety of rice fish available for sale by our partners.

    Japanese Rice Fish
    Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

    Click For Best Price

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What do they eat?

    Japanese ricefish are not fussy when it comes to food. Feed them a regular diet of flakes or micro pellets. Providing live foods like baby brine shrimp and micro worms is a great way to keep them in perfect health.

    Are ricefish aggressive?

    Rice fish are not aggressive at all. These peaceful nano fish are great community tank mates.

    Why are they called ricefish?

    Rice fish get their name from their habit of living in rice paddies. These are shallow swamps where the rice plant is grown.

    Are ricefish the same as killifish?

    Ricefish may look and act a lot like killifish but they are not all that closely related. Genetic research has shown that ricefish are in the Adrianichthyidae family while killifish are in other families like the Aplocheilidae and Fundulidae.

    How long do ricefish live?

    You can expect your ricefish to live for a few years if you provide it with the right care. Their expected lifespan is anything from 2 to 5 years.

    Closing Thoughts

    Medaka rice fish are kept everywhere from Japan to space! It’s a shame that these coldwater nano fish aren’t better known, but fortunately, they have become more accessible all over the world in modern times.

    Do you keep Japanese rice fish? Let us know about your experiences with these nano fish in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • The 4 Major Types of Coral: A Reefer’s Practical Guide

    The 4 Major Types of Coral: A Reefer’s Practical Guide

    Running a reef tank for over a decade has given me a real appreciation for how different coral categories actually behave. My 125-gallon reef has housed everything from easy softies to demanding SPS, and the learning curve between those two ends of the spectrum is steep. I attend Reefapalooza every year and one thing I always notice is how many new reefers jump straight into SPS without understanding the four major coral categories first โ€” and it rarely ends well. Whether you’re setting up your first reef or trying to understand what corals you can actually keep, this guide breaks down the four main types and what each one realistically demands.

    What Exactly Is Coral?

    Live corals are the crown jewels of the natural marine world, but what exactly are they?

    This marine life comes in all shapes and sizes and can be found in almost all saltwater ecosystems. Some corals live in the most tropical and shallow waters getting direct sunlight while others can withstand freezing temperatures and complete darkness. Through all their differences, they are connected.

    Corals are animals. They are not plants and they are not parts of the rock. Instead, they are marine species that lack a vertebral column, making them a type of invertebrate. More specifically, corals belong to the phylum Cnidaria, which is a large taxonomic group that contains over 11,000 species of coral, jellyfish, gorgonian, and anemone.

    The most outstanding feature of this phylum is their inclusion of stinging cells called cnidocytes; these are what give jellyfish their stinging tentacles. There are different types of cnidocysts including nematocysts which contain venom, spirocysts which are very sticky, and ptychocysts which help the animal build a protective tube. All corals have cnidocytes though not all are dangerous to humans.

    From Cnidaria, corals can be broken into different categories.

    Corals belong to the Anthozoa class of Cnidaria. Of the 6,000 different known species of marine life in this group, corals make up over a third of its members. Even further, the Anthozoa class is broken into two main subclasses1 which then contain different species:

    • Octocorallia subclass
    • Hexacorallia subclass

    Octocorallia subclass

    The differences between these two groups are mainly in appearance and growth pattern.

    As its name suggests, corals in the Octocorallia subclass have eight tentacles and form colonies. These tentacles grow in a pinnate fashion, meaning opposite from one another. This group includes species of gorgonian, organ pipe coral, as well as the Alcyonacea order of soft corals.

    For the most part, the majority of soft corals belong to the Alcyonacea order. These corals lack a complete hard calcium carbonate skeleton but contain small sclerites that give them some structure. Instead, they have very fleshy individual polyps that are easy to divide and reproduce.

    Some of the most recognizable species in the Octocorallia subclass are:

    Hexacorallia subclass

    The Hexacorallia subclass features tentacles in multiples of six that do not grow in a pinnate fashion. These corals may grow alone or in colonial forms and are known as reef-building corals due to their internal calcium carbonate skeleton. The Hexacorallia subclass contains some of the most recognizable species of hard and stony corals.

    Though this subclass is known for having hard structures, zoanthids belong to the Zoantharia order under this categorization as well; zoanthids are colloquially known as soft corals in the aquarium hobby, though they may incorporate sand and other stronger materials into their flesh for some support.

    The other order under the Hexacorallia subclass is Scleractinia. The Scleractinia order comprises most of the available coral species in the hobby today, including both large polyp stony coral and small polyp stony coral varieties. As a result, most coral reef ecosystems are built from the hard calcium carbonate skeletons of members from the Hexacorallia subclass.

    Many marine mushrooms also fall under the Hexacorallia subclass in the Corallimorpharia order. These corals lack any sense of hard skeleton structure, which does not allow for a fossil record.

    Here are some of the most recognizable corals within the Hexacorallia subclass:

    Why Is Coral So Important?

    Why Is Coral So Important

    Now that we understand corals on a scientific level, we need to understand how each one of these species plays into their larger ecosystem.

    You might have heard that coral reefs are dying. But what does this mean exactly and why does it matter?

    Coral reef ecosystems are homes to hundreds of animals, plants, and bacteria. These are some of the most unique and biodiverse ecosystems on this planet and extend past their aquatic borders, into estuaries, lagoons, rivers, and beaches.

    Corals reefs provide food and shelter for numerous fish and invertebrates. They also provide food, protection, medicine, and recreational value to humans; corals reefs are natural structures that help preserve shorelines and prevent erosion from oncoming storms and strong tides.

    Not only would entire ecosystems collapse should coral reefs die, but human life for millions would also be severely impacted by dwindling numbers and extinction.

    Why Are The Reefs Dying?

    Coral reefs are in trouble and it’s estimated that 70-90% of coral reef ecosystems will die in the next 20 years. These mass die-offs have largely been attributed to rising ocean temperatures, pollution, ocean acidification, overharvesting, and poor fishing practices.

    Coral death is sudden and usually irreversible. Corals are animals that have a symbiotic relationship, or beneficial exchange, with a type of algae called zooxanthellae; the coral provides shelter for the zooxanthellae while the algae photosynthesize to make food to share.

    When environmental conditions change and the coral becomes stressed, it will release these zooxanthellae, leaving the coral an empty white calcium carbonate skeleton; this is known as coral bleaching and can only hope to be reversed when the original stressor is corrected.

    Unfortunately, many reefs are already dead or are on their way to becoming fully bleached. Important reef-building corals, like the staghorn coral (Acropora cervicornis) and the elkhorn coral (Acropora palmata), are critically endangered and quickly disappearing.

    Where Can You Find The Reefs?

    The most famous coral reef is the Great Barrier Reef in the tropical waters of the Indo-Pacific off the coast of Australia. This coral reef is so massive that it can be seen all the way from outer space!

    Being so large, the Great Barrier Reef is made up of at least 3,000 individual reef systems. It is home to many of the aquarium hobby’s favorite fish and invertebrates, including many types of clownfish, angelfish, and butterflyfish as well as hundreds of different soft and hard corals.

    Other famous tropical reefs include the Tubbataha Reef off of the Philippines, the Raja Ampat Reef off of Indonesia, and the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef off of Mexico. The coral reefs we are used to seeing are typically along the equator of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans.

    But what about the coral reefs at the bottom of the ocean?

    That’s right! There are coral reefs made of deep-sea species that have evolved to withstand high pressure and low temperatures down to about 6,000 feet towards the ocean floor. These corals do not need light and do not photosynthesize in these deeper waters. Instead, they depend on catching the many small organisms that happen to float past.

    Most of these deep-sea corals can be found in the North Atlantic Ocean, though deep-sea coral reefs thrive at great depths throughout many of the world’s oceans.

    4 Types in the Reef Hobby

    Obviously, not all types of coral can be kept in the home aquarium, though the list of species and varieties available changes every year. For the most part, new corals are always being added but sometimes trade laws and environmental concerns limit what becomes available when. This can cause big shifts in price and availability, though the focus on aquaculture and sustainable harvesting has grown greatly over the past few years.

    As a result of these sustainable efforts, the many types coral that aquarists love, are inexpensive, and easy to come by. Let’s look at the four main types:

    • SPS Corals
    • LPS Corals
    • Soft Corals
    • NPS Corals

    SPS

    Monti Cap Coral

    Hard corals, also known as SPS corals, are some of the most desirable in the hobby. These reef-building corals are big, colorful, and an indicator of a high-tech and happy system.

    Most hard corals belong to the Scleractinia order. There are two main types of hard corals: branching SPS and encrusting SPS.

    Some of the most popular shallow water species of branching SPS belong to the Acropora, Montipora, Pocillopora, and Seriatopora genera. Some of the most popular species of encrusting SPS belong to the Favia and Echinophyllia genera.

    Regardless of whether you pick a branching or encrusting type of coral, hard coral are very similar in their needs. They are some of the most challenging corals to keep, demanding high lighting, high water flow, and consistent water parameters.

    SPS are regarded as slow-growing as they need to build hard calcium carbonate skeletons. There are a few species, like Montipora and Seriatopora, that seem to grow faster than the others, though those growth rates are relatively slow in comparison to LPS and soft coral species.

    LPS

    Hammer Coral

    LPS corals, or large polyp stony corals, comprise of a large number of species that greatly vary in appearance. Some have long tentacles and aggressive tendencies, like torch corals (Euphyllia glabrescens), while others are compact and nearly harmless, like Blastomussa species.

    These types of coral actually belong to the Scleractinia order along with other hard corals. This discrepancy is largely due to the fleshy large polyps of LPS corals that cover most of their underlying hard skeleton, making them difficult to see. Their needs are also much less demanding than those of related reef-building hard corals.

    Most species of LPS need moderate lighting and moderate water flow. They grow quickly, but not as fast as slow corals as they need to build a calcium carbonate skeleton.

    Soft

    Toadstool Leather Coral

    When talking about soft coral species, LPS and true soft corals are usually lumped together even though they are in completely different taxonomic subclasses; LPS are part of the Hexacorallia subclass while true soft corals belong to the Octocorallia subclass.

    True soft corals are regarded as some of the easiest corals to keep. They don’t require high lighting, can tolerate low and moderate water flows, and are pretty forgiving about beginner’s mistakes. In addition, they’re very easy to propagate and grow quickly, making them especially inexpensive and readily available.

    Some of the most popular soft coral species may belong to the Sinularia, Capnella, and Sarcophyton genera.

    NPS

    Sun Coral Close Up

    So far we know soft corals, LPS corals, and SPS corals, but there’s actually a fourth kind of coral that can be seen in the aquarium hobby: nonphotosynthetic (NPS) corals.

    In terms of difficulty, soft corals are considered the easiest followed by LPS corals. The most advanced hobbyists will keep SPS-dominant systems or mixed reefs that contain all three. NPS corals are much more niche, though, and can certainly prove to be some of the most difficult.

    NPS corals do not have zooxanthellae (azooxanthellate) and need to obtain food through other means, mostly by catching available microorganisms in the water column. This means that a lot of food needs to be available a lot of the time in stable water parameters, making them almost as challenging as some of the more difficult hard coral species.

    There is no denying that NPS corals are some of the most unique types of coral available. They come in bright, almost fluorescent, colors and have interesting polyp shapes that allow for optimal feeding. They may sometimes be mistaken as a type of soft coral to the untrained eye.

    Hobbyists have come up with some solutions for keeping their NPS corals fed, but many fail and lose their corals within a matter of months. Daily broadcast feeding is a must. It is even better if food intake can be controlled by using a plastic or glass container to cover the coral for more direct feedings.

    In general, NPS corals are rare to come by in the average aquarium store because of their dietary needs. However, here are some of the species you’re likely to come across if you do:

    • Sun coral (Tubastraea spp.)
    • Fat head dendro (Dendrophyllia spp.)
    • Carnation coral (Dendronephthya spp.)
    • Chili coral (Nephthyigorgia spp.)
    • Some gorgonians

    Each species of NPS will come with its own set of difficulties, though sun corals are usually regarded as one of the easier types of coral in this category.

    Wild-Caught vs. Maricultured vs Aquacultured

    When shopping for corals, where they come from matters. Most types of coral that are available in the aquarium hobby once originated from the Indo-Pacific. Some are still wild-caught directly from these tropical coral reefs, while other species have been mariculture or aquacultured.

    Wild-Caught

    In reality, there are few benefits to buying wild-caught corals.

    Some of the reasons for doing so include rarity and variety. Different species may be rare due to being newly introduced into the hobby or being difficult to propagate in the aquarium setting. Many corals also differ in appearance depending on the area of collection, which can be appealing for some hobbyists that are looking for something uncommon.

    Collecting corals from the wild has a significant impact on ecosystems, though. Remember, these animals are already suffering from global warming and overharvesting and removing them more is not helping.

    In addition, wild-caught coral species come with a lot of problems: parasites, difficulty acclimating, and expense. It is safe to assume that any type of wild-caught coral bought will arrive with parasites or hitchhikers, requiring quarantine. The quarantine will also help ready your new coral for the display tank as they are extremely sensitive to changes in light, water flow, and parameters.

    Lastly, wild-caught corals are more expensive than maricultured or aquacultured ones. This is due to vendors having to take the risk of importation and acclimation. Not to mention that coral importation laws can change at any given moment.

    Maricultured

    Maricultured types of coral are a decent alternative to wild-caught corals, but they still come with a lot of problems. In theory, mariculture is the best of both worlds, growing corals in their natural shallow water ecosystems with the intent to collect.

    These coral farms are out in the wild, providing food and shelter for surrounding fish and invertebrates while also supporting local commerce when sold to hobbyists. Even better than that, these corals can easily be placed back onto the reef to start rebuilding damaged and dead ecosystems.

    However, the transfer from the wild coral reef to the home aquarium is still difficult and pests and acclimation are still problematic. Though maricultured are much more sustainable than wild-caught ones, they still carry inflated prices and increased risk.

    Aquacultured

    Aquacultured species are arguably the most sustainable, hardy, and attainable types of coral available to the average hobbyist. These corals are fully grown in captivity, far away from the sanctuary of the coral reef.

    Over the past few years, more and more coral species have been successfully aquacultured. This allows vendors to quickly and infinitely harvest corals in safe and controlled conditions, lowering costs and nearly eliminating the need for prolonged acclimation. What you see is what you get with these types of coral, with little worry of changing colors, pests, or sudden death.

    Other Invertebrates

    Though corals get all the spotlight in the coral reef aquarium, there are many other invertebrates that make these fragile systems work as they should. Some of these helpers include clams, sponges, anemones, and marine worms.

    It should be noted that most of these invertebrates are filter feeders to some extent, making their care even more challenging than that of some types of coral.

    Clams

    Clam in Reef Tank

    In recent years, clams have made their way into many home reefs. The majority of marine clams available are members of the Tridacna genus, namely the maxima clam (Tridacna maxima) and the crocea clam (Tridacna crocea).

    Marine clams are arguably even more difficult than all types of coral, making them an unrealistic addition for most average hobbyists. These invertebrates require high lighting, moderate water flow, and constant feedings.

    Interestingly, these clams also share a symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae similar to photosynthetic corals: the zooxanthellae are protected while the clam is fed. However, like other clams, Tridacna species are filter feeders that will quickly strip the water column of any and all food.

    With the addition of their potentially large sizes, marine clams are limited to only the most expert hobbyists.

    Sponges

    Sponges are definitely one of the most underrated invertebrates in the aquarium hobby, but surprisingly difficult to keep. That being said, they are a very common hitchhiker, though most don’t survive due to limited food availability or natural predators that are already in the tank; many fish and other invertebrates won’t hesitate to munch away on small pieces of sponge.

    Sponges also require moderate water flow to ensure that planktonic foods are always being passed through and that wastes are being carried away. Though some sponges are photosynthetic, they need to be able to get sufficient food from the surrounding aquarium water alone.

    Anemones

    BTA

    Everyone wants an anemone until it becomes too much–which can happen rather quickly.

    But what is a clownfish without an anemone? Probably better off, and here’s why.

    Anemones are members of the Hexacorallia subclass in the Cnidaria phylum meaning that they’re related to many of the other types of coral found in the aquarium; this is also why they have similar stinging cells and are photosynthetic from symbiotic algae.

    The main problem with sea anemones is that they are mobile. Most corals are sessile invertebrates that will stay in one given location, moving or simply dying if conditions become unfavorable. Instead, anemones have the ability to detach their foot and float with the current until landing in a more desirable location. In the aquarium, this could mean landing on top of and stinging other corals.

    In addition, anemones can be pretty demanding when it comes to lighting, water flow, and water parameters. They are definitely more appropriate for experienced hobbyists, which limits many beginner hobbyists who want to try the anemone and clownfish pairing.

    The other major problem is that they are quick to spread. Though propagation is a sign of good health, it can quickly become unmanageable. Many hobbyists need to constantly find new homes for their sea anemones, which can be difficult to remove from the rock and handle afterward.

    If you’re up to the challenge, then some of the most popular species of anemone are:

    • Rose/green bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor)
    • Rock flower anemone (Epicystis crucifer)
    • Sebae anemone (Heteractis crispa)
    • Long tentacle anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis)

    Marine Worms

    Feather Duster Worm

    There are thousands of species of marine worm with some being incredibly helpful, like the bristle worm, and others being slightly terrifying, like the bobbit worm (Eunice aphroditois). Hobbyists have managed to find the most beautiful of worms and incorporated them into the home coral reef aquarium.

    Some of these marine worms are feather dusters (Sabellastarte spp.), coco worms (Protula magnifica), and Christmas tree worms (Spirobranchus giganteus).

    Just like the other invertebrates on this list, marine worms are filter feeders, pulling planktonic foods out of the water column. However, marine worms are not corals and are in a different taxonomic phylum altogether called Annelida. They are not photosynthetic and will need to be fed a vast array of supplemented foods instead.

    When stressed, some marine worms have the ability to drop their crown. It is unlikely for the animal to recover after this, so remove the crown and tube as soon as possible to prevent an ammonia spike.

    Final Thoughts

    Accurate replication of the coral reef ecosystem has long been the goal of many saltwater enthusiasts. From soft corals to hard corals, these marine animals bring a dimension to the display tank that can’t be understated. With so many types to choose from, there truly is a coral species for everyone at every level.

    Before choosing a coral to bring home, make sure to research how these corals are being collected. We can all do our part to save the remaining coral reef ecosystems of our world’s oceans.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Flame Angelfish Care: What Every Reefer Should Know Before Buying

    Flame Angelfish Care: What Every Reefer Should Know Before Buying

    The flame angelfish is one of the most visually striking dwarf angels you can put in a reef tank โ€” that bright orange-red body with black vertical bars is genuinely hard to beat. In my experience, they’re also one of the more commonly impulse-purchased reef fish, and that’s where trouble starts. The big thing people overlook is the coral-nipping risk. Like most dwarf angels, flame angels can develop a taste for soft corals and LPS, and once they start it’s nearly impossible to stop. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep them in a reef, but it does mean you need to go in with realistic expectations and a plan. Here’s everything I know about keeping them successfully.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCentropyge loricula
    Common NamesFlame angelfish, flaming angelfish, flame angel
    FamilyPomacanthidae
    OriginCountry – Pacific Ocean
    DietOmnivore
    ColorsReds, yellows, oranges, purples, blacks
    Care LevelIntermediate
    TemperamentSemi-Aggressive
    Minimum Tank Size70 gallons
    Max Size4 inches
    Temperature Range76 โ€“ 82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef SafeWith caution
    Available As Tank Breed?Available

    Origins And Habitat

    As one of the most colorful fish in the entire saltwater aquarium hobby, the flame angelfish comes from the tropical waters of the Pacific Ocean. These marine fish have a very wide natural range, taking to the shallow lagoons and reefs of tropical island ecosystems, like the Great Barrier Reef. Flame angels are highly dependent on the reef for food and shelter and rarely venture deeper than 60 meters in depth.

    Interestingly, these dwarf angels form harems with one male for every 2-6 females. Like most other saltwater fish that form harems, flame angelfish are hermaphrodites. This means that all flame angels are born with male and female reproductive organs, though their external appearances are nearly identical; this can make it difficult to form harems in the reef tank setting.

    As environmental and social changes occur, the largest and most colorful flame angelfish will assume the position of the male in the harem; this could be caused by a sudden death of the previous male or external factors, like resource availability or mating patterns.

    In the aquarium, this sex change is unlikely to occur to your flame angelfish. As we’ll see, flame angels cannot be kept together due to various aquarium limitations, though some hobbyists have been successful. This makes for an otherwise stable environment where the flame angelfish does not need to adapt so drastically by changing its sex.

    What Do Flame Angelfish Look Like?

    Flame Angel

    Flame angelfish are one of the brightest and most appealing fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish have bold colorations and stay under 4 inches when fully grown, making them a suitable addition to the saltwater aquarium for the average hobbyist.

    The flame angelfish has a compact body, with rounded dorsal and ventral fins. The overall color is a bright red, with several vertical black stripes along the side of its body. The middle portion of the body may be more orange or red than the rest, along with the caudal fin. The outer margins of the dorsal and anal fins may have electric blue or purple accents.

    Color and intensity will greatly depend on the lights being used on the reef tank and the quality of diet.

    The flame angelfish is a dwarf angelfish species. They have a very similar body shape and temperament to the closely related coral beautiful angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa). Though these fish may be smaller than their full-sized angel counterparts, they are still active fish that need a decent amount of aquarium space.

    Coral Beauty Species

    In comparison, coral beauties are slightly less desirable than the flame angelfish for the reef tank. However, they’re still one of the most beautiful fish available in the hobby and within the price range and care requirements that the average hobbyist can afford and provide.

    Coral beauty angelfish have a more concentrated natural range throughout the Indo-Pacific. They grow to be about 4 inches and require a 70 gallon tank or more. They have a deep purple body with many thin black lines across the middle of their body; this area is lighter in color, ranging from dull yellow to intense oranges. Their behavior is nearly identical to that of the flame angelfish, though they can sometimes be shyer in personality.

    It is also believed that coral beauties are slightly more reef-safe than their more colorful counterparts. Still, there is no guarantee that a coral beauty will leave all the corals in the tank alone for an indefinite period of time and caution is needed.

    These dwarf angelfish have also been successfully captive-bred, which lessens environmental impact and increases overall hardiness and availability.

    Tank Requirements

    Though small, the flame angelfish can be more challenging to keep than the average community fish. This is largely due to their level of activity, green-based diet, and semi-aggression.

    At the bare minimum, dwarf flame angels need 70 gallons or more. For many years, these reef fish were believed to be a nano tank fish species that could fit into small aquariums under 40 gallons. As hobbyists began to understand their true needs, it was revealed that they are very active swimmers that heavily rely on the live rock for food and protection.

    Like larger angels, flame angelfish are algae grazers. They will spend their time weaving in and out of the live rock, looking for food. Unfortunately, this also sometimes includes sessile invertebrates which don’t make them completely reef-safe, though we’ll discuss more later.

    Otherwise, flame angels don’t require much. They can be slightly more sensitive to changes in water parameters than other fish species but will show their best colors when happy.

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    Yes, flame angelfish are relatively easy to keep. They’re not as hardy as other community fish, like clownfish, but they don’t require any special water parameters or diet.

    That being said, flame angelfish should not be attempted as one of the first additions to a new aquarium. Not only is water quality subject to change during this time, but this stocking sequence can also affect your fish’s ability to adapt to new additions in terms of aggression.

    Are They Prone To Marine Ich?

    For the most part, flame angelfish aren’t any more prone to contracting marine ich than any other saltwater fish. For some reason though, most flame angelfish in-store have often already been affected.

    With any fish, it is always recommended to do a quarantine period before adding the new fish to the display aquarium. Allowing 2-4 weeks of seclusion will let illnesses arise in a safe environment where medications can be freely dosed.

    If your fish does show signs of ich or another parasite while in your display aquarium, it is still strongly recommended to start the quarantine process and dose medications accordingly.

    Marine Ich Symptoms & Cures

    It can be very scary dealing with marine ich for the first time in the aquarium. These parasites are relentless and much more difficult to treat than their freshwater counterparts, which are not closely related at all.

    Unlike freshwater ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), marine ich cannot be solved with simple water changes and water temperature adjustments. Instead, there is a pretty exact protocol that needs to be followed.

    Marine ich is a type of parasite called Cryptocaryon irritans. The most obvious sign of ich is a sprinkled coating of small white specks that cover the entire body of the fish; these can be especially difficult to see under some aquarium lights and on lighter colored fish bodies.

    Contrary to popular belief, these white spots are not actually the parasite, but a symptom instead; as the parasite digs into the skin of the fish, the body excretes a mucus that causes the signature ich-appearance. These spots might not always be visible as the parasite can internally infect gills. At this stage, the parasite is depending on the fish for survival.

    After this stage, the parasite drops off and attaches to the substrate or another surface. These create daughter parasites that swim until they find another host. This means that ich can be transferred through aquarium water alone while in this life stage.

    Other symptoms of marine ich include:

    • Heavy breathing
    • Discoloration
    • Lack of appetite
    • Flashing
    • Lethargy

    The best way to prevent ich is by stopping it from entering the aquarium altogether. Purchasing from a reputable seller and a subsequent quarantine period will increase the chances of receiving a healthy fish on arrival that can be observed and treated for any given ailments.

    If ich manages to enter the display aquarium, there are few options available to the hobbyist for treatment. All fish must be captured and transferred to a quarantine tank while the main display is left fallow for several weeks. Most prescribed medications are too strong for biological filtration, which could easily wipe out everything that’s living in the display.

    Once in quarantine, there are a few courses of treatment that can be done for marine ich. In general, raising the temperature has little effect on saltwater fish suffering from ich. However, raising the temperature to about 81ยฐF has shown to result in a shorter fallow period needed for the display. The freshwater dip method has also been proven to be ineffective.

    Ich will not treat itself and medication is needed on top of a quality diet and stable water parameters. Some of the recommended medications are copper and chloroquine phosphate.

    One of the least aggressive methods of treatment is hyposalinity. This involves lowering both the pH and salinity over the course of a few days to combat an ich infestation. While this method is very gentle on fish and can be successfully executed in the display aquarium, it can be very difficult to execute with precision.

    This is mainly due to needing exact recordings of water parameters while keeping on top of freshwater top-offs and buffering the pH.

    As mentioned before, flame angelfish can be hardy once established in the aquarium. Though they don’t have the thickest mucus protecting their skin from parasites such as ich, they are not the most susceptible either.

    Temperament

    You never know what you’re going to get when you bring home a flame angelfish (video source). In general, they are regarded as being a semi-aggressive species that might nip at other similar-looking species. This is especially true if hoping to keep the popular combination of flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish together.

    Flame angels and coral beauties have successfully been kept together in the same aquarium, even in those that are probably too small. However, this pairing isn’t recommended unless the aquarium is over 200 gallons.

    The problem is that flame angelfish are generally more aggressive than coral beauties, leaving one fish from this duo to be bullied. A larger tank will allow for territories to be farther apart, decreasing the chances of your fish interacting with each other; it also helps if the fish are added at the same time so that neither one has the upperhand.

    In the wild, flame angelfish are regularly seen in harems. In the reef aquarium setting, very few hobbyists have had luck keeping more than one flame angel per tank.

    In most cases, this would require a very large aquarium, well over 200 gallons. All members of the harem would then need to pick a dominant male, though this can be achieved if you group them together while they’re still young and have time to establish their sexes.

    Are They Reef-Safe?

    Flame angelfish are reef-safe with caution. This is neither a yes nor a no and results will vary from tank to tank.

    There are times when flame angelfish are completely reef-safe, partially reef-safe, or not reef-safe at all. There is no way to know which one your fish will be until it’s too late. If you have any corals, especially soft corals and fleshy large polyp stony (LPS) corals, that you don’t want to lose, do not introduce a flame angel into the system.

    But are there any corals that a flame angelfish will leave alone no matter what?

    What Corals Are Safe With Them?

    If you have a coral-hungry flame angel, then chances are that they’ve destroyed your zoanthid colony. For one reason or another, their favorite coral seems to be expensive zoanthids.

    Unfortunately, there is no way to stop your fish from eating your corals as this change can literally happen overnight. However, there is a good chance that flame angelfish will leave harder corals, like small polyp stony (SPS) corals, alone as opposed to fleshier varieties.

    To help deter your fish even more from going after your corals, feed regularly. This isn’t a foolproof solution but can help keep your fish interested in food other than your corals. Maybe try substituting new foods every now and then to really keep them guessing.

    Tank Mates

    One of the most popular flame angelfish tank mates is the coral beauty; there is no denying that the bright orange and electric purple of these two fish makes for an unparalleled combination in the home aquarium. Sadly, this pairing can only be achieved in larger systems.

    If wanting to keep these two dwarf angelfish species together, a bare minimum tank size of 200 gallons is needed. Still, it is not unheard of for a more aggressive flame angel to harass and kill a coral beauty in these larger setups.

    Otherwise, flame angelfish can hold their own against slightly more aggressive fish but might be too overpowering for more docile species. Good tank mates include:

    Pairing your flame angelfish with other angels is always tricky. As long as the two fish don’t look too similar, there is a good chance that the combination will work.

    Remember that flame angelfish are not 100% reef-safe. They are very likely to pick at and devour soft coral polyps. Flame angelfish typically leave snails and hermit crabs alone but might take interest in small shrimp.

    What Do They Eat?

    As a species of angelfish, flame angels heavily rely on algae and other microscopic flora that can be found growing naturally on the rocks. Because of this, they are not recommended for new aquariums that have little to no established algae growth.

    A happy flame angel can be seen weaving in and out of the live rock, picking at whatever they happen to come across. Just because flame angelfish are algae-eating fish does not mean that they will solve a pest algae problem. For algae problems, first combat unstable or poor water quality and then introduce better biological solutions, like a bristle tooth tang if tank size permits.

    In order to keep their dwarf angelfish constantly fed, many hobbyists leave a piece of seaweed clipped to the side of the tank for regular feedings. In addition, live and frozen foods, like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, can regularly be given along with a high-quality marine fish flake or pellet. Flame angelfish will also enjoy algae flakes and pellets to meet their omnivorous needs.

    Final Thoughts

    Dwarf flame angelfish have always been a popular addition to the home aquarium, though their care requirements and needs have changed drastically over time. These beautiful fish need a decently sized aquarium with some attention to tank mate stocking. They will also do best when kept in a mature tank that has had time to grow enough algae to keep your angel fed.

    And yes, a flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish pairing is possible. Tank conditions and individual personalities of fish need to be right to make this combination work, though.

  • 14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    Gouramis are one of my favorite families of freshwater fish โ€” they come in an incredible range of sizes, from the tiny honey gourami at under two inches to giant gouramis that need a pond. As labyrinth fish, they can breathe air directly at the surface, which makes them surprisingly hardy. One thing I always warn people about, though: dwarf gourami disease. It’s caused by an iridovirus that’s rampant in the trade, and infected fish are asymptomatic until they’re not โ€” there’s no cure. If you want a smaller gourami without that risk, the honey gourami is my go-to recommendation. In this guide I’ll walk through 14 species worth knowing about, with honest notes on temperament and care for each.

    What Are Gourami Fish?

    Gouramis are freshwater fish from the Osphronemidae family. They originate in South, and Southeast Asian countries, but are such popular aquarium fish that can now be found all over the world. There are over 130 known types of gourami, and many of them are available in the aquarium trade.

    Gouramis are known as labyrinth fish because they have a specialized labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe air. Dissolved oxygen levels are typically low in their natural habitat which is why these fish have this special adaptation that allows them to take a breath of air from the water surface.

    Gouramis come in all sorts of colors and sizes, from the tiny sparkling gourami at 1.5 inches all the way up to the giant gourami at over 2 feet long! They have distinctive ‘feelers’ which are actually modified pelvic fins.

    In the wild, their natural habitats vary from slow-flowing rivers to shallow swampy areas. Gouramis are actually great parents and many species are bubble nest builders.

    14 Best Gourami Types For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about what gourami fish are and where they come from, it’s time to get to know some species! To get you started, I’ve put together this list of the 14 best gourami species for freshwater aquariums that you can keep.

    For each species, you’ll find a list of important information to help you choose the best gourami for your tank. That list includes:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    I included a video from our YouTube Channel below. If you like it, be sure to subscribe. We upload every week. I go over in more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Honey

    Honey Gourami
    Honey Gourami

    One of the more peaceful Gourami fish available in the hobby. Has a unique yellow coloration and only grows up to 2 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna/ Colisa chuna
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The honey gourami is a great species to start this list! It is a very peaceful fish species that is excellent for beginners. The male honey gourami is much smaller than the female and has bolder colors, but they are both great-looking fish.

    Honey gouramis are excellent nano fish that can be kept on their own or in a small group. The honey gourami also makes an ideal tank mate in a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.

    2. Sparkling

    Sparkling Gourami
    Sparkling Gourami

    A great Gourami for nano tanks. Only grows to 1.5 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Trichopsis pumila
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sparkling gourami fish is another terrific nano species that seems to burst with color. Their bold looks are accentuated by the gleaming iridescent turquoise sheen on their body and fins.

    Sparkling gouramis are very peaceful fish and can be timid if kept with other fish that are larger and more boisterous than themselves. Ideal tank mates include small schooling fish like rasboras, but avoid keeping them with shrimp as they are quite the little hunters!

    3. Licorice

    Licorice Gourami
    Licorice Gourami

    A small gourami that grows to 1.5 inches in length. Prefers to be housed in a planted tank

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    • Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live foods
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 3-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The licorice gourami is a spectacular species and one of the few fish that are really suited to nano tanks. These colorful fish don’t need that much room because they stay under 2 inches in length and aren’t very active.

    The licorice gourami can be a little tricky to feed because they tend to reject prepared meals like flakes and pellets. This means these tiny fish require daily feedings of live and/or frozen foods like bloodworm, daphnia, and brine shrimp.

    4. Pearl

    Pearl Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pearl gourami is a peaceful species that makes a perfect community fish. They are one of the best-looking aquarium fish in the hobby and make an amazing centerpiece fish.

    The male pearl gourami is a little more colorful than the female and has extended fins, but both sexes are very attractive and graceful fish. Pearl gouramis are great fish for beginners, and with a lifespan of up to ten years, they make awesome pets.

    5. Blue

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue gourami is a beautiful color morph of the popular three-spot gourami. These stunning fish can be pretty aggressive with each other, especially when breeding, and should be regarded as semi-aggressive.

    The blue gourami is still a great species for beginners, as long as they have a big enough tank and their territorial temperament is understood.

    6. Kissing

    Kissing Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Helostoma temminkii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8-10 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Dried foods, spirulina flakes, vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 71-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The kissing gourami fish is a very odd-looking freshwater aquarium fish! These have puckered mouths, and even come together to lock lips sometimes. This behavior is thought to have social or even breeding functions.

    These fish also use their strange mouths for feeding on algae and plants, but they can be kept safely with some tough aquarium plants like Java ferns. Kissing gouramis are another species that can be quite aggressive with other fish, so careful planning is necessary before adding them to community tanks.

    7. Giant

    Giant Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 20-28 inches in length (Up to 18 in captivity)
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Feed pellets, frozen foods, and vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The giant gourami is a huge species that can live for 20 years and makes a great pet. They are very hardy and equally peaceful, although they will eat fish that are small enough to swallow whole.

    The giant gourami grows to over 2 feet in length and needs plenty of space. They grow fast too, so make sure you’re ready for the commitment before bringing one of these gentle giants home.

    8. Powder Blue Dwarf

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The powder blue dwarf gourami is quite a sight with its electric blue color and red accents. They can be a good choice for a nano aquarium with the right tank mates.

    The powder blue dwarf gourami can be pretty shy and territorial so they should only be kept with other peaceful fish. The females are particularly peaceful and are the best choice for community setups. Alternatively, you can keep these stunning fish in a pair in their own tank, although more fish can be kept in large aquariums.

    9. Snakeski

    Snakeskin Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 8 to 12 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes but might nibble on plants

    The snakeskin gourami, or snakeskin fish, is about the most peaceful gourami species out there, but they are also probably the least colorful. They are pretty large fish that need plenty of space to thrive.

    The snakeskin gourami makes a wonderful community fish, but it is important to note that they may swallow smaller fish and there is a possibility of your plants getting snacked on too!

    10. Gold

    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The gold gourami (like the blue gourami) is a variant of the three spot gourami species. These eye-catching fish are a rich golden yellow color with beautiful marbling and spots on their fins and body.

    Gold gouramis (video source) have the same care needs as blue gouramis, as well as the regular three spot gourami and opaline gourami. This is because they are all different color variations of the same species.

    11. Moonlight

    Moonlight Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster microlepis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 77-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The moonlight gourami might have a little less color than some of the other species on this list but it makes up for it with an amazing silvery-blue/green shine! They also have extra-long feelers (pelvic fins) which are bright red in males.

    Moonlight gouramis do great in community tanks with other peaceful species and can be kept in pairs or small groups in a big enough tank.

    12. Sunset

    Sunset Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sunset gourami is one of the best gouramis for a community tank. These golden orange fish can be kept in groups without aggression between themselves or their tankmates.

    The sunset gourami is often confused with the sunset variety of the honey gourami, so be sure your fish is correctly labeled!

    13. Flame Dwarf

    https://youtu.be/6jfmLgkEGYU
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The flame dwarf gourami (video source) is a very special breed of the popular dwarf gourami. These fish have spectacular colors and differ from the regular dwarf gourami in having more solid coloration. The body color of the flame gourami is a brilliant golden orange in contrast to the dorsal fin which is electric blue. Dwarf gouramis can also make good tankmates for angelfish.

    14. Blue Paradise

    Blue Paradise Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live/ frozen foods, might also accept high quality dried foods
    • Origin: Vietnam, Laos, China, Taiwan
    • Temperature: 50-71ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue paradise gourami is a feisty little species that is also known as the paradise fish. What sets these fish apart is their tolerance for cooler water, so they can usually be kept in an unheated aquarium.

    Paradise fish have amazing color, but they can be pretty aggressive around breeding time. The ideal stocking is one male with two or more females because males kept together will fight.

    Tank Setup

    The different types of gourami vary greatly in size, so selecting the right tank size depends on the species you keep.

    Some dwarf species like the sparkling gourami will do great in a ten gallon tank, while the giant gourami will need 250 gallons or more. Most average-sized species, like the pearl gourami, for example, will do best in a 30-gallon tank or larger.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Your choice of substrate is not all that important when it comes to keeping gouramis. Any well-rinsed aquarium substrate of your choice will work fine.

    If you plan on growing live rooted aquarium plants, you may wish to use quality aquarium soil, but otherwise, gravel or aquarium sand will work just fine. I would suggest using darker natural colors to make the fish’s color stand out and help them feel more comfortable.

    Gouramis can be quite shy and are easily stressed in an empty tank without decorations. This affects how your fish feel and also how they look because stressed gouramis will not show their best colors.

    Use some driftwood or rocks to create some structure in the aquarium. Large aquarium ornaments are also very useful, just be sure to avoid anything with sharp edges.

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood
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    Live Plants

    Gouramis love a heavily planted tank. Aquatic plants actually have a number of great benefits for your aquarium because they help to oxygenate the water while removing excess nutrients.

    Furthermore, live plants provide natural food sources and structure for your fish to explore and hide in.

    Not all aquarium plants are suitable for beginners, but the following species can be grown without any specialized equipment:

    Floating plants are great because they help to make your gouramis feel more comfortable in the aquarium, but they can pose a threat to your fish.

    Gouramis often rise to the top of the aquarium to breathe air with their labyrinth organ, so it is crucial that they can get to the surface. Make sure your floating plants don’t cover the water’s surface completely.

    If you’re interested in growing a wider range of plants, check out some of my plant profiles for great tips!

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most gouramis will usually be more confident in lower light situations. Bright lighting in a heavily planted tank is perfectly fine, however, because dense plant growth will provide the fish with plenty of cover and shade.

    Gouramis are usually found in still or slow-flowing water bodies, so it is important to keep the water flow down in the aquarium. You can do this by running a sponge filter, but there are also ways to manage the current generated by a power filter or hang-on back design.

    Editor’s Choice
    Hagen AquaClear
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    Most power filters have adjustable water outputs so you can slow the current. You can also aim the outflow at a hardscape feature like driftwood or rocks to break up the water flow. Running a spray bar with a canister filter is another great way to keep the water current gentle.

    Care

    Gouramis are relatively easy to care for if you start out with the right kind of setup. That’s not all these fish need to thrive, however, so read on for more details on their behavior, feeding, and care needs.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    No guide to aquarium fish care would be complete without mentioning aquarium maintenance. Follow these steps to keep your fish healthy and your aquarium looking great!

    You’re going to need to perform a weekly or twice monthly water change to manage the nitrates in your water and remove all the solid waste particles that have settled on the substrate, hardscape, and plants.

    To do this, you’ll need a gravel vacuum to suck up the waste and the old water. Remove 10-25% of your water during each change and be sure to test for nitrates before and after with your water test kit. Ideally, you want to keep your nitrate levels down to 20 ppm or less.

    Before adding new water to the tank, make sure it is at a similar temperature to the old water, and use a conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals dissolved in your tap water.

    My Pick
    Seachem Prime
    Seachem Prime

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    Behavior & Feeding

    Most types of gourami are peaceful fish, but some can be semi-aggressive around breeding time. Do not keep more than one male in the same aquarium unless it is a very large tank, as they tend to become territorial and fight when space is limited.

    The more aggressive species to note are:

    • Kissing gourami
    • Three spot gourami
    • Blue paradise gourami/ paradise fish

    Although it shouldn’t be seen as aggressive behavior, some of the larger species might snack on smaller fish and fry if they can. Freshwater shrimp can also be part of the menu.

    Most gouramis are omnivorous, which means they feed on both plant and animal matter. Smaller species like the licorice gourami and chocolate gourami are predators that feed on small invertebrates.

    Most species will thrive on a diet of prepared dried foods, supplemented with frozen and live foods and vegetables. These supplements improve the general health of the fish, and you will see this by the enhanced colors they develop.

    Some of the more specialized species like the chocolate gourami can be more challenging because they usually don’t accept prepared foods and require live or frozen foods on a daily basis.

    Breeding

    Gouramis are fairly easy to breed and make a great breeding project. Let’s take a closer look at how to breed these fish in the home aquarium.

    Before attempting to breed your fish, it is very important to get them in top physical condition. You can do this by improving their diet with more live foods and vegetables. A healthy, well-conditioned pair can then be moved to a breeding tank.

    It can be tough to tell female gouramis from males. The female will look heavier when she is in breeding condition and carrying eggs.

    The males often have more pointed fin margins than the females. In some species, like the honey gourami, the male is a lot more colorful.

    A shallow breeding tank of just 6 inches or so is the ideal setup. The water flow should be slow so an air-powered sponge filter is an ideal choice for this low water volume. The water in the breeding tank should be on the warm side, in the lower 80’s Fahrenheit.

    Most gouramis are bubble nesting fish. The bubble nests are built by the male, and after spawning, he will collect the eggs and attach them to the underside of the nest. At this point, you can move the female out of the breeding tank, her side of the job is done!

    These fish build their bubble nests on floating plants in nature, and this works great in the aquarium too. They will attach their nests to other floating objects, however, and many aquarists have had success with simple pieces of foam.

    Once the eggs have hatched, you can feed the free-swimming fry infusoria, baby brine shrimp, and other food sources like prepared liquid fry foods.

    Tank Mates

    Most types of gourami will do great in a community tank with other community fish. Choosing compatible and peaceful tank mates is always important of course.

    Suitable tank mates should be similar-sized fish that they cannot swallow, or be swallowed by! Aggressive fish and fin nippers should also be avoided.

    Some types of gourami will do best when kept in a species-only setup without other fish. The following species make ideal tank mates for the more peaceful gouramis:

    Where To Buy

    Gouramis are some of the most popular freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby, so they are usually pretty easy to find. You can take a look at your local fish store or simply order your fish online.

    Buying livestock online is easier than ever these days, and trusted retailers in the field like Flipaquatics.com stock a great range of gouramis at great prices!

    FAQS

    How many should be kept together?

    Sometimes it is best to keep just one gourami in a tank to avoid the chance of aggression – it all depends on the species.

    This is especially true with males. Females gourami fish tend to be much more peaceful so it is often possible to keep a small group together.

    How many of the dwarf variety should be kept together?

    It is best to keep just a pair of dwarf gouramis in the same tank. This is because some individuals do become a little territorial and aggressive. It is possible to keep more in a large aquarium with plenty of plants and cover, however.

    What is the most aggressive?

    The paradise fish is probably the most aggressive gourami. The popular three-spot gourami (blue gourami, gold gourami, opaline gourami, etc. ) also has some aggressive tendencies, especially around breeding time.

    Are they aggressive?

    Gouramis are generally peaceful fish, but some species can be semi-aggressive. Most fighting happens between male gouramis, so it is often safer to avoid keeping two males in the same aquarium.

    What is the smallest variety?

    Sparkling gouramis and licorice gouramis are the smallest species you are likely to come across in the hobby. These nano fish reach about 1.5 inches when fully grown.

    Final Thoughts

    Gouramis are awesome and often underrated tropical aquarium fish. There are so many types of gourami to choose from that there is a species or breed to suit just about any tank! If you’re looking for some new centerpiece fish or even an interesting breeding project, why not pick up a pair of these awesome fish for your aquarium?

    Do you love gouramis as much as we do? Tell us about your favorite fish below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    Barbs have a bit of an unfair reputation in the hobby, mostly because of tiger barbs. Yes, they fin-nip โ€” but the real issue is people keeping them in groups that are too small. When I keep tiger barbs, I run groups of eight or more, and the nipping behavior almost completely disappears as they focus on each other. Outside of that, barbs are genuinely great fish: active, hardy, and available in enough variety to suit almost any community tank setup. My personal favorite for planted tanks is the cherry barb โ€” underrated, peaceful, and the males turn a beautiful deep red. Here are 12 types worth knowing about.

    Barbs are a versatile, and often an underrated group of freshwater aquarium fish. In this article, I’ll be introducing 12 amazing types of barbs that you can keep in your tank. I’ll also teach you all the barb basics that you need to know to keep them happy and healthy.

    What Are Barbs?

    Barbs are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. There is a huge number of wild fish species in this group and they range through Asia all the way to Southern Africa. Barbs are solidly built fish, usually with strong fins and well-developed scales.

    They range in size from just an inch or so to large species that are measured in feet! Most of the popular aquarium species are 2-6 inches long, however. Many barb fish do well in cooler water temperatures, making them a great choice for unheated aquariums.

    They are generally peaceful fish but tend to be very active so choosing the right tankmates is important. They have a bit of a reputation in the hobby and some species are known as fin-nippers. This behavior is usually the result of poor care and stocking, however.

    Top 12 Types of Barb Fish For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about barbs in general, it’s time to get more specific. This article showcases 12 different types of barb fish that you can keep. To make your selection a little easier, I’ve included the most important facts you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube Channel just for you. We go into more detail in our blog post. If you like our video content, be sure to subscribe to us as we post new videos every week!

    So let’s meet some barbs!

    1. Cherry

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The cherry barb fish is an old favorite in the hobby. It is a very peaceful community fish that can brighten up your aquarium with a rich red-orange color.

    Cherry barbs are striking fish that have beautifully rounded fins and huge prominent scales. This is a great barb for beginners because it is so peaceful, small, and easy to care for! They get along with most fish species.

    2. Tiger

    Tiger Barb Fish
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    It’s easy to see how the tiger barb got its name. These striped schoolers are notorious fin-nippers, but the bad reputation is not always deserved. They come in many colors, including platinum, black, and albino tiger barb varieties.

    If given enough tank space, and kept in a group of at least 8-10 or so, they will usually leave their tankmates in peace. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t advise keeping the tiger barb with long-finned fish like angelfish.

    3. Gold (Chinese Barbs)

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: China, Laos, Taiwan, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The golden barb is an amazing fish that is also known as the Chinese barb. Gold barbs in their wild form look amazing enough, but the golden morph that is most common in the aquarium trade is a truly spectacular fish.

    The golden barb is a peaceful schooling fish that stands out with highly reflective scales. Like other barbs, they should be kept in a group of at least 6, but the more the merrier!

    4. Rosy

    Rosy Barb in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Rosy barbs are a fairly deep-bodied species that comes in many awesome varieties including long-finned forms. They are schooling fish that can work great in community tanks with the right tankmates.

    Rosy barbs are omnivores and will feed on soft plants, so they are not always the best choice for carefully aquascaped aquariums. That being said, the rosy barb is one of the few fish that love eating black brush algae (BBA), so they can do great work in a planted tank.

    5. Denison

    Dension Barb Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 59-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The Denison barb is another species that goes by a few different names, including roseline shark and red-line torpedo barb. These peaceful and active fish are ideal for a larger tank with good water flow. A small school of these sleek and colorful fish makes for an eye-catching display, but they do require excellent water quality and plenty of swimming space to thrive.

    6. Tinfoil

    Tinfoil Barb in Tank
    • Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 12-14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, vegetables and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The tinfoil barb is a majestic barb species that gets its name from its metallic silvery color. Unfortunately, tinfoil barbs are just too big for most aquarists to keep indoors. These gorgeous fish need at least 150-gallon tanks but are probably better suited for ponds.

    Tinfoil barbs are active but peaceful fish, although they will eat other fish that are small enough to swallow. These large fish should be kept in a group of at least 6 to observe their interesting natural behaviors.

    7. Odessa

    • Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 61-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    This beautiful species is one of the smaller barbs, reaching 2-3 inches in length (video source). These schooling fish have intense colors, including silver, yellow, orange, red, and black. It is a very peaceful fish but must be kept in groups of at least 6 to prevent any semi-aggressive behavior.

    8. Glofish

    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you like really brightly colored fish, the Glofish barbs (video source) will really get your attention! These fish are not dyed but rather genetically modified tiger barbs that display intense fluorescent colors.

    That’s right, the Glofish barb is basically just an extra colorful tiger barb, with all the same care requirements. Glofish tiger barbs come in four amazing colors including Electric Green, Starfire Red, Sunburst Orange, and Galactic purple.

    9. Green

    Green Tiger Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The green tiger barb is yet another variety of the tiger barb, but this one isn’t genetically modified. This hardy fish has been developed to have a very dark body color with a vibrant green glow through the process of selective breeding.

    10. Black Ruby

    • Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The black ruby barb (video source) is also known as the purple-headed barb. They are a small, schooling species that can be kept in a community tank with the right tank mates. It is important to keep them in a group of at least 6 individuals to prevent fin nipping and other semi-aggressive behavior.

    Black ruby barbs are one of the most colorful freshwater barbs with males that have dark ruby red around the head, becoming almost black towards the tail. The females look great too, being similar to tiger barbs with 3 bold vertical stripes.

    11. Snakeskin

    • Scientific Name: Desmopuntius rhomboocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The snakeskin barb is also known as the rhombo barb. It is one of the rarer barbs in the hobby and is known for its exotic boa-like markings (video source). It is a tropical species that will thrive in a blackwater-planted aquarium, especially if kept in a nice big school.

    12. Panda

    Panda Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Haludaria fasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The panda or melon barb is one of the most boldly colored and marked species in the barb family. These awesome fish are pretty variable in their markings, and they typically have 3-5 black bars on their sides. Their general body color varies from peach through orange to red, or even purple.

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for barb fish is pretty easy for most species. They tend to prefer slightly acidic water, although they are generally hardy and adaptable. Matching the preferred parameters of wild-caught fish is very important, however.

    Read for more specific information on setting up a great tank for these fish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Some natural hardscape features like rocks and driftwood will make your barbs feel more relaxed in your aquarium. Most barbs appreciate plenty of swimming space, however, so it’s best not to ‘over-decorate’.

    Use a natural, dark-colored substrate to bring out the best colors in your barbs. Any aquarium safe substrate will work, including sand, gravel, and aquarium soils.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Barb fish do not have any special lighting requirements. In fact, most species will feel more comfortable under fairly dim light. Standard aquarium lamps will work fine, although you may want to look at better lighting if you wish to grow live plants in the tank.

    Most barbs are comfortable in fairly low flow, so any filter that can create a weak current is ideal. When choosing a filter, look for a model that can process the volume of your aquarium 4 to 6 times every hour.

    Some species, like denison barbs, are at home in the headwaters of rivers where the water flow and oxygen levels are higher, so they will appreciate a stronger flow.

    Heating

    Many of the popular barb species in the aquarium hobby are happy in temperatures down to the lower 60s. This makes them great fish for unheated aquariums! The preferred temperature ranges do vary between the species, of course, so be sure to do your research.

    Live Plants

    Barbs do great in heavily planted tanks, especially when there are some floating plants to keep light levels down. Most species are omnivorous, however, so there is a chance that some plants might be snacked on. Carpet plants and other soft-leaved types can be at risk.

    Relatively tough plants like the Java ferns are a great choice, however, and they have the added benefits of enhancing the behavior of your fish while oxygenating and improving the water quality.

    How To Care For Your Companions

    Barbs are relatively easy to care for. Feeding them a healthy diet and maintaining great water quality are the most important keys to successful barb keeping. In this section, I’ll give you more specific information on the day-to-day care of these schooling fish.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintaining excellent water quality is the most important thing you can do for your barbs and their tank mates! It’s worth investing in the best filtration system you can afford, but you will still need to get your hands wet every now and then.

    I would recommend starting with a 20% weekly water change to keep nitrate levels down. Use your aquarium water test kit to monitor nitrate levels and adjust your water change schedule as needed to keep concentrations down to 20 ppm or less.

    While siphoning water out of the tank you can also remove any solid waste that has accumulated on the substrate. This is also a great time to clean off any algae growth from the glass of your tank.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Barb fish have gotten a bit of a bad rap in the hobby because of their tendency to nip fins and bully other smaller fish. The main culprits are the tiger barbs, rosy barb, and black ruby barb, but they don’t always deserve this reputation.

    Barbs are social, schooling fish that compete amongst each other for dominance. In a big enough group, this keeps them busy enough to leave the other fish alone. If kept alone or in a small group, this natural behavior will lead them to try to dominate other species.

    The simple solution is to keep barbs in a school of at least 6-8, depending on the species. If possible, keep 10 or more for a great display! They are active swimmers that enjoy plenty of swimming space too, so they can outcompete small fish that are naturally shy.

    Most barbs are omnivores, which means they need both plant and animal-based foods. You should feed your barbs a staple diet of quality fish flakes or pellets. This can be supplemented with live and/or frozen foods, and vegetables.

    Breeding

    Barbs are egg-laying fish that can be bred at home with a little planning. Their habit of eating their own eggs can be a challenge, so you will need to set up a separate breeding tank to increase your chance of success.

    Start by conditioning a small group of barbs with high-quality foods like daphnia and bloodworms. Lower the pH and stain the water in the breeding tank using a material like oak leaves that will leach tannins into the water and induce spawning.

    You’ll need some sort of barrier to keep the eggs safe from the adults. A layer of round pebbles with spaces between them is a good option, especially if you have a gentle current running. If successful, the eggs will hatch in just a day or two, so be sure to remove the parents before they enter the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    Many barbs are excellent fish for a community tank. It is very important to remember that some species, like tiger, rosy, and black ruby barbs are semi-aggressive so they should be kept with other fish that are not easily intimidated and don’t have long fins.

    Keeping barb fish in a tank with plenty of swimming space and in groups of at least 8-10 can also go a long way towards maintaining the peace in a community tank. Keeping these fish together with other barbs is another great way to avoid problems, but there are many other options when putting together peaceful or semi-aggressive community tanks.

    Tank Mates For Peaceful Fish

    More peaceful barb species like cherry barbs are compatible with most other peaceful, similarly-sized fish. Here are a few ideas for great peaceful barb tank mates:

    Tank Mates For Semi-aggressive

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    The following long-finned fish are a little risky, especially if kept with potential fin-nippers like tiger barbs

    Where To Buy

    Barbs are very popular aquarium fish so you can usually find common species like cherry barbs at your local fish store. If you live a little far from town, or just prefer the safety and convenience of online shopping, I would recommend checking out trusted online sources!

    FAQs

    Are they aggressive fish?

    Most fish in the barb family are very peaceful species, although some like the Tiger Barb can be semi-aggressive if kept in small numbers.

    What what types are peaceful?

    Cherry, snakeskin, and gold barbs are great examples of peaceful community fish. Most species are very peaceful when kept in a well-planned community aquarium.

    What fish are compatible with barbs?

    Many species of similarly sized, peaceful fish are compatible with barbs. The best community tank mates for them are fish that are not shy and do not have long caudal fins.

    How many should be kept together?

    It is best to keep barb fish in groups of ten or more. The minimum group size is about 6 individuals.

    How many are there?

    A clear definition of what counts as barb varies depending on who you ask, but there are at least 1682 species in the Cyprinidae family according to FishBase1.

    Not all of these species are available in the aquarium trade but there are at least 20 species or so that are commonly available. Some of them, like the tiger barb, come in a great range of different color varieties too, so there are loads of barbs to choose from!

    Final Thoughts

    Barbs are classic aquarium fish. Their great looks, fascinating behaviors, and the fact that many species can thrive in unheated aquariums make them a great choice for beginner and expert aquarists.

    Do you keep barbs? Tell us about your favorite species below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How to Remove Asterina Starfish: Identifying the Harmful Ones and Controlling Them

    How to Remove Asterina Starfish: Identifying the Harmful Ones and Controlling Them

    Asterina starfish are one of those reef tank hitchhikers most experienced hobbyists deal with eventually. After 25 years in the saltwater hobby and running a 125-gallon reef, I’ve had them appear in my own tank โ€” they come in on live rock and coral frags and can multiply quickly through splitting. The key question is whether your asterinas are the harmless detrivore type or the coral-eating type. Most are completely fine. But certain populations develop a taste for soft corals and zoanthids, and once that feeding behavior starts, population control becomes urgent. In this guide I cover how to identify what you’re dealing with and the most effective ways to control or remove them.

    What Are Asterina Starfish?

    Asterina starfish is the common description and parent genus for about 15 different species of marine starfish. These starfish, also less commonly known as bat stars, can be found in many ecosystems throughout the world, including the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans.

    In fact, species of asterina have been found around coral reefs with temperatures below 50ยฐ F and at varying depths. Most of these starfish can be found in shallower reef conditions though they have been observed at depths as deep as 150 meters1.

    In the reef aquarium, all species of Asterina are categorized as asterina regardless of their true classification. There are usually too many superficial similarities between these species to differentiate between the exact type.

    In general, these starfish are less than a half-inch wide and have an asymmetrical appearance with missing and uneven legs, which is much different than the typical 5-point radial symmetry displayed by echinoderms.

    Most asterina starfish are similar in appearance otherwise. They are largely white or tan in coloration but may have brown or red shading or markings. However, it seems that coloration gives some insight into the behavior of the starfish; some species have been known to be more destructive than others which can make it difficult for hobbyists to decide whether or not to keep this pest in their reef tanks.

    The problem with asterina starfish is that they are naturally good members of the cleanup crew despite their appetite for corals. At the same time, hobbyists have had many problems with them destroying coral colonies and overpopulating the tank in a matter of weeks.

    How Did They Get In Your Aquarium?

    Asterina starfish are a common saltwater hitchhikers. This means that they are introduced into the aquarium by way of something added to the tank, like live rock, coral frags, or used substrate.

    As adults, asterina starfish are small and difficult to spot on their own. Add in the fact that they are able to regenerate from a very small piece of flesh and it can be very easy to miss an incoming asterina starfish infestation.

    How Do They Reproduce?

    Like many echinoderms, asterina starfish reproduce through fissiparous reproduction. This process allows them to detach a given leg, which then grows into an entirely new starfish. As you can probably guess, this can quickly lead to an asterina infestation within the aquarium.

    In addition to fissiparous reproduction, some species of asterina are also hermaphroditic. They also have the ability to sexually reproduce through egg production.

    Are They Good Or Bad?

    There is a lot of debate about asterina starfish in the saltwater aquarium hobby. No matter who you ask, these sea stars are known as pests regardless of the benefits they can bring to the marine ecosystem. This is largely due to their rapid reproduction rates, which can be unappealing to some hobbyists even though there are many benefits to having a sustainable asterina population.

    There is no clear answer as to if asterina starfish are good or bad. Most aquarists welcome them into their reef aquariums as active members of the cleanup crew, but can quickly learn to hate them if there are any signs of damage to corals.

    It has always been a question about whether or not these starfish clean up after already dying corals, or if they take the first step towards eating them due to their natural diet.

    It is largely believed that darker colored starfish and ones with red or brown markings are much more likely to eat corals than those that are almost entirely white, regardless of if decay has set in or not. Hobbyists have gone as far as holding controlled experiments to test this hypothesis, which resulted in some definite findings.

    One experiment, in particular, demonstrated asterina starfish actively crawling over and grazing on a colony of zoanthids. At the same time, they have been seen eating coralline algae, other stubborn algae species, and even cyanobacteria.

    Should You Remove Them, From Your Aquarium?

    Again, there is no right answer to this question until it’s too late.

    The truth is that asterina starfish are likely to make their way into your tank if you’re keeping corals. It can take considerable time and effort to remove every asterina star you see afterward, but removal may be the best option if you have a reef tank filled with expensive zoanthids and soft corals.

    As mentioned before, it’s largely believed that the color and species of asterina starfish play into the likelihood of corals being eaten. If you find that you have a dark-colored variety of starfish, then it’s probably better to be safe than sorry. However, if your stars generally lack markings and have light coloring, then they can be a great addition to the cleanup crew by eating algae and detritus while keeping coralline algae in check.

    How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

    If you don’t want to take the risk of asterina stars eating your coral, then you’ll need to know how to remove them. The best way to prevent asterina species from entering your system is by catching them before they have the chance to get comfortable. Luckily, there are a few other ways, including several livestock options, that you can deal with an asterina starfish infestation.

    Prevention

    The best way to stop any pest from taking over your saltwater reef aquarium is by stopping the problem before it happens.

    There are a few ways that asterina stars might enter your system. The most common ways are through the introduction of live rock, coral frags, or used filter media. If you’re sourcing materials from a fellow hobbyist, then it is worth knowing if they have asterina starfish in their aquarium. This can help you be better prepared before accidentally transferring a new pest into your system.

    Regardless, live rock and coral frags can be observed for asterina species through a quarantine process. Corals frags can even be dipped into a coral dip, like Coral RX Pro Dip or Bayer BioAdvanced Insect Killer, for extra precaution. Keep in mind that these solutions may not affect asterina starfish eggs and may leave some adults as well.

    Coral RX Dip
    Coral RX Dip

    Coral RX dip is the standard for coral dips in the aquarium industry. There are others out there, but this is the original and most used.

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    Steps can be taken to stop these pests from entering your tank. If one happens to get past this process, remember that they have the ability to reproduce asexually at very fast rates; one asterina star can turn into a whole population in a matter of days.

    Reduce nutrients and wastes

    Asterina starfish are scavengers and opportunistic feeders. They graze on algae, biofilm, and their favorite corals, zoanthids.

    As a pest, these invertebrates rely on what is already present in the aquarium to thrive. This means that population growth directly correlates to the resources readily available in the reef tank; a large amount of algae will result in a large number of asterinas.

    Though reducing nutrients and wastes isn’t the best option if your aquarium is relatively stable otherwise, it’s a possible solution for at least slowing the growth of the asterina population.

    Manual Removal

    If you already have asterina starfish in your aquarium, then your tank will probably never be rid of them. However, you can greatly reduce population numbers through regular manual removal.

    Manual removal is simple, though additional maintenance. The best tactic is to wait until the lights go out on the reef tank and then remove every tiny starfish you see. These sea stars can be humanely euthanized with a coral dip or other solution.

    Never try to kill these starfish while they’re still in the aquarium! Any fragments leftover from a dead asterina starfish still has the possibility of recovering into a new starfish.

    Otherwise, simply remove them as you find them. Some hobbyists like to transfer them from the main display to the sump, though they can always find their way back up to the aquarium.

    What Eats Them?

    Luckily, there are a few species that will eat asterina starfish.

    It’s important to remember that adding livestock to solve a pest problem is not a temporary solution; your new addition should feel comfortable in its new home long after the pests are gone!

    As we’ll see, some of these livestock can be challenging to keep due to their dependence on asterina starfish as their main food source. For some hobbyists, these challenges definitely outweigh the risk of having their soft corals eaten though.

    Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocera elegans)

    • Scientific name: Hymenocera elegans
    • Maximum size: 2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Reef-safe: Yes

    Harlequin shrimp are the most recommended natural solution for an asterina starfish infestation. These small shrimp have very appealing patterning with pastel blue, pink, and purple spots on top of a creamy base color. They also don’t require much space as long as dietary needs are met. It is the preferred method of many reefers, including longtime YouTube influencer Rotter Tube Reef – who’s video is showed above.

    The unique thing about the harlequin shrimp is that they’re one of the few species of shrimp that is truly reef-safe. Instead of algae and other organics, their diet consists of only echinoderms, like asterina starfish. In a matter of weeks, harlequin shrimp will eradicate an asterina problem. After that, a bigger problem arises.

    Once all asterina stars have been eaten, your shrimp will be left without any food. At this point, hobbyists need to start supplementing feedings or rehome the shrimp to another hobbyist with an asterina problem.

    If you want to keep your harlequin shrimp, then there are a few options for keeping them fed. One of these options is to set up a system solely dedicated to raising asterina starfish. This system does not need to be complex and can be similar to a refugium setting.

    Another option is to regularly buy echinoderms, like chocolate chip starfish (Protoreaster nodosus) and Linckia sp. (orange linckia, red linckia, and blue linckia). Chocolate chip stars are much more available and hardier than Linckia sp., making them the better option for easier feedings and long-term success.

    These starfish can be fed all at once or by one leg at a time, though the latter isn’t for the faint of heart; the only advantage to feeding leg by leg is that the starfish will have time to rejuvenate a new one by the next feeding, reducing future costs.

    Harlequin shrimp are expert hunters. They will work together to flip a starfish on its back and start to eat its tube feet. They will slowly but surely work their way towards the fleshy center of the starfish.

    Luckily, it can take up to a month for a harlequin shrimp to eat an entire starfish before having to buy another.

    Bumblebee Shrimp (Gnathophyllum americanum)

    Bumblebee Shrimp
    • Scientific name: Gnathophyllum americanum
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Reef-safe: Yes

    The bumblebee shrimp, also known as the striped harlequin shrimp, is one of the most affordable options for long-term asterina control, but also one of the hardest to maintain due to water parameters.

    These shrimp are named after their alternating black, white, and yellow stripes that line their body. Bumblebee shrimp are very similar to harlequin shrimp in diet and behavior but are more accepting of other foods outside of echinoderms.

    Bumblebee shrimp will actively hunt and eat asterina starfish in the tank. However, bumblebees will also eat algae, waste, and any leftover food they happen to come across. This is beneficial for hobbyists that plan on keeping their shrimps after all asterinas have been dealt with but might interfere with the efficacy of eliminating the pests.

    If deciding between a harlequin and bumblebee shrimp, consider how immediate your problem is. Harlequin shrimp will eliminate all starfish within a couple of weeks while bumblebees might take a little longer and might be better at population control rather than total eradication.

    After the asterinas are gone, also consider how you will continue to feed your shrimp. Bumblebees are easier in the long run, though harlequins are much faster at solving the immediate problem.

    Bongo Shrimp (Phyllognathia ceratophthalma)

    Tiger Shrimp
    • Scientific name: Phyllognathia ceratophthalma
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Reef-safe: Yes

    The bongo shrimp is rarely seen in the aquarium hobby but has become a popular solution for asterina starfish infestations. Though these shrimp might be harder to find than harlequins, they’re usually cheaper and much more suited for smaller home aquariums.

    Bongo shrimp are small shrimp that rely only on echinoderms for food. They have a white body covered in bright orange and blue markings.

    Bongo shrimp are extremely shy and do not do well in tanks with large, active fish. Because of this, hobbyists usually keep them in nano and pico tanks with docile fish that have no interest in eating them; even then, these shrimp are likely to hide in the shadows of the rockwork.

    It is believed that bongo shrimp favor brittle starfish (Ophiuroidea class) more than asterina starfish, but they will still greatly help to reduce populations.

    Final Thoughts

    Asterina starfish are a common pest in the aquarium world that you’re likely to find in your own reef tank one day. For the most part, these tiny starfish are nothing to worry about. However, some species of asterina starfish can begin to munch on zoanthids and other soft corals without any notice. Their ability to quickly reproduce can also cause an infestation in no time.

    Luckily, there are a few ways to control and even completely eliminate all threats of an asterina starfish infestation through prevention, nutrient and waste reduction, and manual removal as well as several natural coral predators.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types: The Complete Guide for Community Tanks

    Corydoras catfish are my go-to recommendation for anyone asking what to keep on the bottom of a freshwater community tank. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept multiple cory species, and they consistently earn their place โ€” peaceful, hardy, entertaining to watch as they scoot along the substrate, and compatible with a huge range of tankmates. Two things I always flag before anyone buys: corys need to be kept in groups of at least six of the same species (mixed species groups don’t cut it socially), and they need soft, fine substrate to protect their barbels. Sharp gravel will damage those sensitive whiskers over time, and that’s one of the most common preventable cory health problems I see. This guide covers the 10 most popular species to help you find the right fit.

    What Are Cory Catfish?

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like

    Cory catfish are small freshwater fish from the Corydoras genus. These shoaling fish are native to South America where an amazing 160+ species are known- with many more probably waiting to be described. They range in size from an inch or so to over 4 inches in length and are solidly built with armor-like scales.

    Cory cats aren’t very colorful, but they are very entertaining to watch as they forage around in the tank, periodically shooting up to the surface to take a breath of air. They love to hang out in groups and should always be kept in schools in the aquarium.

    Interestingly, the first ray of their pectoral fins forms a strong, sharp spine that may be tipped in toxic venom. This is probably an adaptation to make predators think twice about eating them. They are not aggressive at all, but it is best to not handle these fish with bare hands.

    10 Best Cory Catfish Types

    Now that you know a little more about these fish, it’s time to jump right in and get to know the 10 most popular types of cory catfish that you can keep. For each corydoras fish species, I’ll be providing the most important stats that you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more blog detail below. If you like our video, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

    So let’s get started!

    1. Pygmy

    Pygmy Cory
    Pygmy Cory

    A smaller variety of Cory Catfish. Grows to less than 1.5 inches in length. A peaceful bottom dwelling fish

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6.4-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pygmy cory is the perfect species for nano aquariums. These silvery schoolers have a prominent black line along their sides, from their eyes to their tails. Pygmy cories are extremely peaceful, and even a little shy around bigger, more boisterous fish.

    Keep them with other small fish species to bring out the best in them. A group of at least 5 or more will look great and allow them to show their natural schooling behavior.

    2. Longfin Panda

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The longfin (video source) is a great variety of the regular panda cory. These schooling fish are an awesome choice for community aquariums.

    The long and flowing caudal fin definitely adds to their appeal. Panda corydoras are very social and peaceful fish that love to hang out in a group, so be sure to order at least 5 of them to really enjoy their natural behavior.

    3. Albino Aeneus

    Albino Aeneus Cory
    Albino Aeneus Cory

    A unique Cory Catfish that grows to 2.3 inches in size. Best in groups of 3 or more

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aeneus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These albino corydoras catfish are a pure white version of the bronze cory catfish (Corydoras aeneus). Their pinkish-white coloration makes them really stand out, especially with good lighting and a dark background and substrate.

    Albino bronze corys are solidly built little cory catfish that get a little larger than most other types of corydoras. They are a great choice for a peaceful community setup with other similarly sized tropical fish.

    4. Panda Corydoras

    Panda Cory
    Panda Cory

    A small cory fish that does well in shrimp tanks. Grows to 2.5 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10-20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Peru
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The panda cory is one of the most popular species in the hobby. These schooling fish are very recognizable with the black markings on their face, tail, and dorsal fin.

    Panda cories bred in the aquarium trade are adapted to water temperatures in the mid-70s, but in the wild, they can survive in cooler water temperatures down to the upper 60s (Fahrenheit).

    5. Habrosus

    Habrosus Cory Catfish
    Habrosus Cory Catfish

    A small and active cory catfish. Does best in groups of at least 5

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras habrosus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Venezuela & Colombia
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The habrosus cory is commonly known as the salt and pepper cory. This nano fish species is very similar to the pygmy corydoras but tends to be a little more boldly marked. Another good way to tell them apart is to look at the dark line down their sides – in this species, the line is broken.

    Like Corydoras pygmaeus, these schooling cories are active swimmers that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. I suggest keeping at least 5 of these nano schoolers, but go for 10 or more if you have the room!

    6. Paleatus

    Paletus Cory
    Paletus Cory

    Also known as the Peppered or Salt and Pepper Cory. Grow up to 2.5 inches in length. Look great in light substrates

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    • Scientific Name: Corydoras paleatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, Uruguay
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The paleatus, or pepper cory catfish, is a great species of cory for beginners. These affordable fish are commonly known as the peppered corydoras because of their finely blotched pattern.

    Peppered cory catfish should be kept in a small group to bring out the best in their personalities.

    7. Sterba’s

    Corydoras Sterbai
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras sterbai
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-77ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.2-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Sterba’s cory is one of my favorite corydoras of all. These stunning little cory catfish are very peaceful and look amazing in a tropical community aquarium.

    Sterba’s cory is a pretty dark species, that is heavily marked with black lines and silver dots. Their most distinctive feature is probably the golden yellow color of their pectoral and pelvic fins.

    8. Simillis Corydoras

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras similis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The similis cory (video source) is one of the best-looking species out there. They have a finely spotted body, with a darker area near the tail.

    These cory catfish types are a great choice for a blackwater amazon biotope, but they will be very happy in a regular planted setup too.

    9. Adolfo Cory-Cat

    • Scientific Name: Corydoras aldolfoi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Corydoras catfish (video source) are not really known for bright colors, but the adolfo cory is certainly one of the bolder species! These fish are silvery-white with black markings and have a distinctive orange mark on their backs. They are most at home in acidic stained water.

    10. False Julii-Cory

    Corydoras trilineatus
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Suriname
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The false julii cory catfish gets its name because it looks a lot like the regular julii corydoras catfish (Corydoras julii). They are striking little fish with silvery bodies covered in interesting plack patterns.

    They are an active species that will entertain you with plenty of antics if kept in a nice school of at least 6.

    Other Species

    There are a huge number of different corydoras species. In fact, with more than 160 types of cory catfish, they form the largest genus of freshwater fish in the world!

    Here’s a list of other common corydoras you might come across in pet stores and the aquarium trade.

    • Julii cory – Corydoras julii
    • Bandit cory – Corydoras metae
    • Three stripe cory – Corydoras trilineatus
    • Leopard cory – Corydoras leopardus
    • Skunk cory – Corydoras arcuatus
    • Dwarf corydoras – Corydoras hastatus
    • Orange laser cory – Corydoras aeneus
    • Agassizi cory – Corydoras agassizi

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for cory catfish is easy. The nano species like pygmy corydoras can thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but many of the larger species will do much better in community tanks of at least 30 gallons or so. As with all aquarium fish, the bigger the tank the better!

    Let’s take a look at how to set up your aquarium for cory catfish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Choosing the right substrate is more important for keeping cories than you might think! These cory catfish have fine whisker-like structures around their mouths that are known as barbels. These barbels are used to forage for food in the substrate, but they can be easily damaged on sharp gravel.

    This is known as barbel erosion and its causes are not universally agreed on. Fine sand is the best substrate choice because this is what the fish are able to dig through without hurting themselves.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    A layer of just half an inch or less is ideal because it will allow the fish to search right down to the bottom of the tank and consume any uneaten food.

    Live Plants

    Growing some floating plants and epiphytes in the tank can enhance the look of your aquarium while improving water quality and oxygenation. The following species are easy to grow and don’t need any special lighting or equipment:

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most types of cory catfish prefer low lighting, but they will also be very happy in a well-lit planted tank, especially if the plants provide some shade. They will also enjoy some hides and caves in the form of ornaments or carefully arranged hardscapes.

    Cory catfish need great water quality, so a good quality water filtration system is essential. Many breeders make use of simple sponge filters, but a canister, hang-on back, or internal power filter could be a more aesthetically pleasing option for a beautiful display tank.

    Any filter you select should provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Choose a model that matches your aquarium tank size and is able to process the volume of water about 5 times every hour.

    How To Take Care Of Your Pet

    Cory catfish are simple to care for, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in the fish-keeping hobby. With the right tank setup, good maintenance, and a high-quality diet, these fish can provide you with years of enjoyment in a tropical community tank.

    Read on to learn more about caring for these fun little bottom feeders!

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is especially important when keeping cory catfish. These fish do not tolerate poor water quality well and can be affected by serious conditions like barbel erosion in a neglected tank.

    Stay on top of your maintenance by performing a simple water change each week. Make sure to clean the substrate thoroughly with your gravel vacuum, because this is where your cory catfish forage and hang out.

    You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor the water parameters in your tank. The test results should always read zero parts ammonia and nitrites in a fully cycled aquarium. Nitrates will build up naturally in any stocked aquarium but should be kept to below 20 parts per million.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most cory catfish are bottom dwellers that spend their time digging through the substrate or resting on the sand. They can be very active too and often enjoy swimming up and down the tank at high speed. They are very social creatures and just love shoaling together.

    The nano species like habrosas and pygmy corys are a little different. They are more active swimmers and tend to spend their time schooling in the midwater levels of the tank.

    Cory catfish are omnivorous and will eat just about any food source you provide. Unfortunately, some inexperienced fishkeepers make the mistake of not feeding them at all. While they do make an awesome part of the clean-up crew, this doesn’t mean they don’t need a high-quality diet.

    Freeze Dried Blackworms

    Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

    • Flake foods and granules
    • Sinking pellets and wafers
    • Gel foods
    • Frozen foods
    • Live baby brine shrimp
    • Black worms

    Breeding

    Cory catfish can be bred at home with a little planning and preparation. You’ll need a separate breeding tank of about ten gallons or so with a simple sponge filter for the best results. You should put in a spawning mop of synthetic wool or a live plant like java moss where the females can deposit their eggs.

    A group of 2 females and four males is a good bet and they should be well-conditioned after moving them into the breeding tank. The males tend to be a little smaller than the females and have more pointed fins. Feeding them a high-quality diet including plenty of live/frozen food will get the fish ready to spawn.

    Frequent water changes are necessary and replacing the old water with slightly cooler water will often trigger spawning. The spawning behavior is interesting to watch, with the pair forming a T-shape. The eggs are laid on the spawning mop or even just the aquarium glass.

    Remove the adults once eggs have been laid. They should hatch after about 5 days and will need to be fed a diet of micro worms once they reach the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    All types of cory catfish are the perfect fish for community tanks because they are just so peaceful. Most species can be kept with adult shrimp, but you can expect juvenile shrimp to be snacked on.

    Cory catfish should only be kept with other small fish that won’t bully them, or try to eat them. They can be kept with other bottom-dwelling species, but take care not to overstock your tank with bottom-feeders. Let’s take a look at some other fish that can be kept with corydoras:

    Where To Buy

    Corydoras are such popular fish that you can find them at most pet shops and aquarium stores. There are some great online retailers like Flipaquatics that have made a name for themselves by selling high-quality stock and making the delivery process super easy and safe for the fish too.

    FAQs

    How many species are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many species of Corydoras are there?

    According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!

    How many Corydoras should be kept together?

    Corydoras catfish are social fish that love to hang out in groups. In nature they can often be found in huge shoals, so the more you can keep without overstocking your tank, the better.

    Is 4 of these enough?

    Ideally, you should keep at least 6 cory catfish of the same species together. They will survive just fine in a group of 4 but you might not see them performing all their natural behaviors. They are a natural schooling species.

    What is the biggest size?

    The banded cory (Scleromystax barbatus) is the largest of all the cory catfish types. They might not be a true corydoras species, but they used to be considered a member of the same genus. These beautiful fish can grow to 4 inches in length and have awesome markings.

    Are they good for beginners?

    Cory catfish are great fish for beginners. They are reasonably priced, easy to find at most pet stores and work great as a community fish in many modern aquariums.

    Final Thoughts

    Cory catfish are amazing pets for tropical freshwater aquariums. They stay small, are sweet-natured, and help to clean up uneaten food from their messy tank mates! Choosing the perfect species can be tough with all the options, but the ten fish in this list are all worth considering for your aquarium.

    What are your favorite types of cory catfish? Let me know in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 15 Aggressive Freshwater Fish: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

    15 Aggressive Freshwater Fish: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

    After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve kept my share of aggressive freshwater fish โ€” ornery pea puffers that terrorize tanks way above their weight class, cichlids that rearrange decor overnight, and oscars that will eat anything they can fit in their mouth. These are some of the most captivating fish in the freshwater hobby, but they’re also among the most commonly mistreated. People buy them because they look impressive, then stick them in a community tank and wonder why things go sideways fast. In this guide I’m covering 15 aggressive freshwater species I’d personally recommend, with honest context on space requirements, tankmate risks, and what makes each one tick.

    What Are Aggressive Fish?

    An aggressive fish is any fish that can cause harm to other members of its own species, other fish species, or even the fish keepers who own them. Some of it comes down to the individual personality of the fish, but certain species are just known for aggression. Aggressive freshwater fish can make great pets, of course, they just need a little extra planning.

    Freshwater aquarium fish are usually labeled as peaceful, semi-aggressive, or aggressive. What exactly is the difference though?

    Well, there is no clear-cut line between these categories but here’s a simple way to think about it.

    • Peaceful fish don’t fight, chase or eat other similar-sized fish in the aquarium
    • Semi-aggressive fish can attack and bully other fish in the aquarium under certain circumstances
    • Aggressive fish are likely to fight, harass, eat, or kill other fish in the aquarium

    15 Of The Best For Aquariums

    Now that you know what aggressive fish are, it’s time to meet a few of the most amazing aggressive freshwater aquarium fish that you can keep.

    For each fish species in my list, I’ll be providing you with the most important facts that you need to know:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We got a YouTube video from our channel below so you can follow along. We have additional details in our blog, so please view both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we create new video content every week!

    After introducing you to 15 amazing species (and 4 to avoid), I’ll be giving you some more background information about what makes these animals tick and how to care for them, so make sure you read to the end!

    1. Wolf Cichlid

    Wolf Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Parachromis dovii
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 24-28 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed cichlid pellets, frozen foods
    • Origin: Costa Rica, Honduras, Nicaragua
    • Temperature: 75-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8-7.6
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The new world cichlids are some of the coolest aggressive aquarium fish in the hobby, and the wolf cichlid is a perfect example. These aggressive cichlids are very aware of their surroundings and always seem to be watching their owners.

    These voracious feeders are partially piscivorous, which means they feed on other fish. They are best kept in a species-only tank, although some brave monster fish keepers have kept them with tank mates. This is one mean fish!

    2. Jaguar Cichlid

    Jaguar Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Parachromis managuensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10-16 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed cichlid pellets, frozen foods
    • Origin: Costa Rica, Honduras, Nicaragua
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    Jaguar cichlids are a smaller relative of the wolf cichlid above. These beautiful fish are amazingly marked with spotted patterns just like their big-cat namesakes.

    Jaguar cichlids have an aggressive nature and they are armed with powerful jaws, and sharp teeth to back it up. These fish can be kept alone or with other large cichlid tank mates that can hold their own.

    3. Red Devil Cichlid

    Red Devil Cichlid Amphilophus labiatus
    • Scientific Name: Amphilophus labiatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 12-15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed cichlid pellets, vegetables, live & frozen foods
    • Origin: Nicaragua
    • Temperature: 75-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The red devil cichlid owns its name with a serious attitude and awesome orange color. These aggressive cichlids can be just as mean to members of their own species as they can with other tank mates, so the bigger the tank the better.

    Red devil cichlids love rearranging their tanks, so be prepared for the ornaments and decoration to be shifted around.

    4. Silver Arowana

    Arowana
    • Scientific Name: Osteoglossum bicirrhosum
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 28-32 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed pellets, frozen & live foods
    • Origin: Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Guyana, French Guiana, Columbia
    • Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The silver Arowana is a true monster fish that very few aquarists have the space to keep. These fish grow to nearly 3 feet long, and they are serious jumpers.

    This means they need a huge aquarium that is more secure than a maximum-security prison! Arowanas are predators with big mouths, so don’t keep them with any small tank mates.

    5. Texas Cichlid

    Texas Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Herichthys cyanoguttatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed pellets, frozen & live foods, vegetables
    • Origin: USA & Mexico
    • Temperature: 70-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    They say everything’s bigger in Texas, and Texas cichlids have huge personalities and appetites to match. These awesome fish are not fussy when it comes to feeding and actually make a good fish for aquarists looking to start out with aggressive species.

    Texas cichlids are the only cichlid species native to the United States. The males are larger and more aggressive than the females, but both have incredible black and iridescent blue speckled bodies.

    6. Oscar

    Oscar Cichlids in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Astronotus ocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10-14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed pellets & live/frozen foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    Oscar fish make great pets for experienced aquarists and can live for up to 20 years with the right care. They have big personalities and love begging for food. These South American cichlids can be pretty mean, and won’t hesitate to eat any smaller tank mates.

    Oscar fish come in a few different varieties with body colors varying from white through black, red, and even green. Long-finned oscar fish varieties are also available.

    7. Jack Dempsey

    Jack Dempsey Fish
    • Scientific Name: Rocio octofasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed pellets, live/frozen food, & vegetables
    • Origin: Honduras, Guatemala, Belize, Mexico
    • Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Floating plants and epiphytes

    The Jack Dempsey cichlid is named after a famous American boxer. These fish don’t necessarily live up to their name, however, and they can even be pretty shy.

    As a single specimen, they are not too aggressive to form part of a community tank, but careful planning is definitely needed. If kept in a group, these new world cichlids can be very aggressive with each other once mature.

    8. Red Tail Catfish

    Red Tailed Catfish
    • Scientific Name: Phractocephalus hemioliopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3-4 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 2000 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The red-tail catfish is a truly awesome fish, but sadly, most of them never end up in the right home. The problem is that these fish grow huge, and few aquarists have the space and money for a big enough aquarium. Redtail catfish have been recorded at over 80 lbs and nearly 4.5 feet!

    With the right kind of setup, these exotic catfish can make amazing pets. They are not aggressive towards other species, but they grow huge and have big mouths, which means smaller tank mates will disappear pretty soon. They can, however, be aggressive toward each other so it’s best to keep just one in a tank.

    9. Vampire

    Vampire Fish
    • Scientific Name: Hydrolycus scomberoides
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 10-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed live fish
    • Origin: Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The vampire fish, or vampire tetra, sounds like something straight out of a horror movie. These silvery streamlined predators are at home in flowing water, so a tank with strong filtration is recommended.

    They are shoaling fish when young, but become more solitary when older. These fish jump too, so a secure lid is essential. Vampire fish aren’t actually aggressive with larger fish but they do have huge teeth and feed on surprisingly large prey. This makes choosing tank mates pretty tricky.

    10. Black Wolf

    • Scientific Name: Hoplias curupira
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 16-20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed fish fillets
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    It would be very difficult to pick a meaner fish than the black wolf fish (video source). These predators are just plain killers. Black wolf fish have huge mouths and powerful jaws, filled with sharp teeth.

    They are nocturnal hunters and tend to spend the day lying still at the bottom of the tank. This is a fish that should only be kept in a species only aquarium.

    11. Severums

    Severums Fish
    • Scientific Name: Heros efasciatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8-10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed pellets, live/frozen foods & vegetables
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 72-84ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    Severums are not all that aggressive, except when breeding time comes around. Keeping a small group of them can reduce aggression, as lone fish can become pretty mean when mature.

    Severums come in many amazing color varieties. These South American cichlids are not fussy when it comes to mealtime, and they will happily tear up aquarium plants. It is possible to keep severums with many different types of tank mates as long as they are peaceful and enjoy the same water parameters.

    12. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray
    • Scientific Name: Potamotrygon spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 1.5-3 feet across
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed pellets, live & frozen foods
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8-7.6
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    You probably think of the ocean when you think of stingrays, but there are actually some amazing freshwater species that work great in the right kind of aquarium. Stingrays are cartilaginous fish (from the same group as sharks) and these ambush predators have a venomous spine on their tails.

    They are actually very docile animals, but the possibility of a sting is always there. Freshwater stingrays need a tank with plenty of floorspace and depth is not all that important.

    13. Green Terror Cichlid

    Green Terror Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Andinoacara rivulatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed
    • Origin: Peru, Ecuador
    • Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    Green terrors are absolutely stunning South American cichlids with amazing turquoise green bodies and black and red fins. The males are much larger than females, and have a very aggressive nature, especially around breeding time.

    Keeping one of these fish on its own in a large tank is pretty straightforward, but adding them to community tanks is where things get very tricky. A pair of these fish will attack and kill any other fish when breeding season comes around.

    14. Mbu Pufferfish

    • Scientific Name: Tetraodon mbu
    • Difficulty Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 24 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 500 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed mollusks (shellfish)
    • Origin: Tanzania, Zambia, DRC, Cameroon, Burundi
    • Temperature: 75-79ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The mbu, or giant puffer is a huge African species that can make an amazing pet for the dedicated fish keeper. If you want a large aquatic pet with its own unique personality, this could be the fish for you.

    Mbu pufferfish aren’t always aggressive, but they are large, and they do have serious teeth! It is best to keep them on their own or with fast-moving fish in a massive aquarium.

    15. Pignose pufferfish

    Pignose Puffer Fish
    • Scientific Name: Tetraodon suvattii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed live foods
    • Origin: Laos, Thailand
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pignose or arrowhead puffer is a really cool and unique freshwater aquarium fish. These puffers are serious ambush predators that spend their time on the bottom, blending in with their amazing camouflage. If a small fish should swim by, it will be swallowed up before it even knows what hit it.

    This behavior means they aren’t very active pets, but they are awesome for aquarists looking for a rare and unusual aggressive fish species. They should only be kept on their own because they will eat anything smaller than themselves, and bite chunks out of tankmates that are too big to swallow.

    Fish To Avoid

    The following fish are species that many aquarists dream of keeping because they’re just so cool. Theoretically, with a large enough tank, you could keep any fish, but the fish on this list aren’t great choices. Read on to learn why…

    1. Piranhas 

    Piranhas In Aquarium

    Sure, piranhas can be kept in the home aquarium, but they aren’t always all they’re cracked up to be. Many fishkeepers do keep these toothy characins with great success, but many more end up disappointed.

    Even with all the hype around them, piranhas are not always very exciting fish to keep. These notorious fish can actually be surprisingly shy and skittish. Add their messy eating habits and tendency to attack (and eat) each other and you have a fish that’s only recommended for very dedicated fish keepers.

    2. Goliath Tigerfish

    Goliath Tigerfish

    Although some aquarists do keep the goliath tigerfish, it is really one monster that is better left in the wild. These powerful and aggressive predators inhabit large rivers in Africa where they are well-respected by local people and wildlife alike.

    Goliath tigerfish reach a length of 6 feet and 100lbs in weight. It is just not possible for most aquarists to provide these magnificent creatures with the environment they deserve.

    3. Alligator Gar

    Alligator Gar

    The alligator gar is a truly amazing fish, but it doesn’t belong in a home aquarium. These prehistoric giants grow huge to an impressive size with adults commonly reaching 6 or 7 feet.

    They are quite often sold as juveniles, and the new owners find out too late just how big these animals grow. If you see one of these for sale, rather move on to the next tank unless you happen to own a giant public aquarium.

    4. Paroon Shark

    The paroon shark is a species of catfish from Southeast Asia. This species can grow to 10 feet long, which is an obvious reason to NOT bring one home. To top it off, they are active fish that need plenty of swimming space.

    These fish can be very skittish and will crash into the walls of the tank, injuring themselves and causing damage. Oh, and they are voracious predators too, so their tankmates probably won’t last too long either.

    What Makes Fish Aggressive?

    After reading about all these mean fish, you might be wondering why they behave the way they do. Aggressive freshwater fish are not evil. In fact, their aggression is usually very important for their survival in the wild.

    Aggression does vary between individuals to some extent, and fish can become more or less aggressive as they mature and age. Let’s take a quick look at why fish show aggressive behavior.

    Predation

    Big fish eat little fish, it’s just a fact of life. Sure, many larger freshwater fish species are vegetarian, but most large fish will eat smaller fish if given the chance. Fish with larger mouths can eat larger prey, so warning bells should go off any time you see a fish with a really big mouth.

    Territoriality

    Territoriality is probably the least understood form of aggression amongst hobbyists. What seems like a mean attitude has some important benefits in nature. A territory is a space defended by an animal for a specific reason. It could be a good shelter from predators, a food source, or a place to attract a mate.

    Often the only way to keep control of a territory is to chase off competitors, and if necessary, to fight. Space is limited in an aquarium and the competitor might not be able to move away far enough to avoid conflict.

    Dominance

    Some schooling fish develop a clear pecking order, and the dominant individuals aren’t afraid to use violence to enforce their rule.

    This kind of aggression can result in some individuals getting picked on or attacked. If they don’t have a place to hide or enough structure in the tank to break the line of sight, the result can be tragic.

    Breeding

    Some fish like Cichlids become especially aggressive when they are ready to breed. These fish may be relatively peaceful at other times but become absolute killers after pairing up.

    They might have the right to defend their eggs or fry but, unfortunately, other fish in the tank don’t really have the option to get far enough out of their way.

    Self-defense

    Lastly, some fish can hurt each other or their owners out of self-defense.

    A freshwater stingray, for example, is not really an aggressive animal at all. If they really feel threatened, however, they can be really dangerous since they have a sharp venomous spine on their tail.

    Tank Setup

    Keeping large, aggressive fish can be a big commitment in terms of time, space, and money. Many of the aggressive South American cichlids can be kept in tanks of under 100 gallons, but some of the other species in this list require very large tanks.

    Tank Size

    The fish in this list are all large species that need large tanks. Most of the time these species are sold as juveniles, and they might just be a couple of inches long in the store. Juvenile fish can be kept in pretty small tanks, but you need to be ready for when they grow.

    Make sure you have the space, and the budget to provide the tank size needed when your fish begins to grow- and they can grow fast! Large fish tanks don’t only take up a lot of space, but they are heavy too. The basement or ground floor may be the only safe place to set up a really big aquarium.

    Most fish can jump higher than you might think, so a solid hood/lid is essential.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Large fish can move objects around in your tank pretty easily. Cichlids for example are notorious for rearranging the decorations in their tank.

    Keep your hardscape simple and provide the fish with some hiding places. Do not stack heavy rocks that could collapse and injure your fish or damage the aquarium.

    Sand is a great substrate because it is pretty easy to vacuum fish waste off the bottom. Many keepers prefer a bare bottom tank because these are even easier to maintain.

    Filtration and Equipment

    Large aggressive fish tend to produce a lot of waste, and this means serious filtration is necessary.

    Large external filters are best because they provide superior filtration and are safe from attacks from your fish. Options include large canister filters, sump systems, or filters designed for ponds.

    Your heater and other equipment should also be housed externally to be on the safe side. Alternatively, your heater can be protected with a heater guard. Titanium heaters are also recommended if you place them in the tank.

    Lastly, consider running a few air stones in the aquarium to keep the water well oxygenated.

    Caring For Your Pet

    Now that you know more about setting up a tank for aggressive species, let’s take a look at how to care for them.

    Maintenance

    Tank maintenance for a large aquarium is the same procedure as for a smaller tank, just on a much bigger scale. You’ll need to keep an eye on your water parameters with your test kit and perform regular partial water changes.

    As a general rule, aim for the following parameters:

    • Ammonia: 0 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Nitrate: <20 ppm

    Careful planning is necessary before setting up a very large aquarium because you’ll need to use a python system or siphon water directly into a drain, rather than a bucket. Automatic drip systems are a great way to provide a constant inflow of fresh water into your tank. If you have a lawn, the overflow is amazing for irrigation.

    A magnetic algae scraper is very handy for keeping your glass clean without having to reach into the aquarium. This is great for fish that get a little over-excited when they think it’s mealtime.

    Feeding

    Carnivorous fish require a high-quality, high-protein diet. Do not feed your fish any red meats or chicken as these are not part of their natural diet and can be really unhealthy.

    The best staple foods are pellets designed for large carnivorous fish. These should be supplemented with frozen food like shrimp, fish fillets, and shellfish. Live invertebrates like crickets, earthworms, and mealworms are a great natural food source too.

    Avoid feeding your predator fish live feeder fish. It may be exciting to watch them hunt, but feeder fish can introduce parasites and diseases into your aquarium.

    Take care when feeding species with sharp teeth or spines as accidents can happen when the fish are excited.

    Choosing Tank Mates

    Aggressive fish are not ideal for community tanks. Some of the most aggressive species will need to be kept in a species-only setup, often on their own.

    Many of the semi-aggressive species can be kept with appropriate tank mates, however. Other large fish can get along fine with predatory, but otherwise peaceful species like arowanas and freshwater stingrays. This kind of community setup needs a massive aquarium of course.

    The trick is to not keep any fish that are small enough to be eaten. Aggression and fighting are always a possibility, however, so always have a backup plan in case one of your fish needs to be moved.

    Where To Buy

    You may be surprised to find many of these species available at your local fish store from time to time. Don’t be afraid to chat with them about special orders if you can’t find what you’re looking for. For rarer species, the internet is a great place to look.

    FAQs

    What are some semi-aggressive types?

    Many of the common aquarium fish are semi-aggressive. Here are some examples that you’ve probably heard of:

    Tiger barbs
    Red tail shark
    Rainbow shark
    Convict cichlids
    Jewel cichlids

    What is a fres-hwater predator?

    Predatory fish are species that feed on other animals that they hunt and kill. When it comes to freshwater fish, the prey can include invertebrates, frogs, and other fish.

    Why is my fish suddenly aggressive?

    Aggression levels can change in your fish as they get older. Many fish species do not become aggressive until they are sexually mature. Breeding time is often a trigger for aggression.

    What’s the deadliest type?

    The deadliest freshwater fish is probably the bull shark. They are more common in saltwater and brackish water, but they are known to travel far upstream into pure freshwater. These aggressive animals have been involved in a huge number of fatal attacks on humans.

    What types will attack humans?

    Attacks by freshwater fish on humans are very rare. The following are some of the most aggressive freshwater fish:
    Bull shark
    Red-bellied piranha
    Goonch Catfish
    Goliath tigerfish

    Final Thoughts

    There are far more exciting fish out there than goldfish. If you’ve always wanted to keep a large, mean fish, go for it! Just remember to plan ahead, and factor in the cost and commitments first.

    Do you keep aggressive fish? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Lyretail Anthias Care – A Complete Guide

    Lyretail Anthias Care – A Complete Guide

    If you’re like me, then one of your favorite things to do is sit back and watch your reef tank filled with beautiful fish swimming around. Among the many different types of fishes that can be kept in a reef tank, lyretail anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) are perhaps some of the most colorful and striking. Lyretail anthias require a fair bit of care, but if you’re up for it they are definitely worth keeping! In this article I’ll provide a complete guide on how to take care of lyretail anthias so that you can enjoy them in your reef tank for years to come.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NamePseudanthias squamipinnis
    Common NamesLyretail anthias, scalefin anthias, sea goldie, lyretail fairy basslet, orange seaperch
    FamilySerranidae
    OriginIndo Pacific Ocean (Indo-West Pacific Ocean)
    DietCarnivore
    ColorsOrange, purple, yellow, red
    Care LevelIntermediate
    TemperaturementSemi-aggressive
    Minimum Tank Size125 gallons
    Max Size5 inches
    Temperature Range76 โ€“ 82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef SafeYes
    Available As Tank BredUncommon

    Origins And Habitat

    Lyretail Anthias Male in Reef Tank

    The lyretail anthias goes by many names but is pretty easy to identify.

    Contrary to popular belief, these fish are not true anthias species belonging to the Anthias genus. Instead, they belong to the Pseudanthias genus. As a fish species of Pseudanthias, these medium-sized fish have very bright colors that bring great contrast to the aquarium setting.

    Lyretail anthias are native to the Indo-West Pacific Ocean. They can be found throughout the Red Sea as well as off the coasts of Japan, Australia, and South Africa. There, these fish form huge harems in clear tropical waters consisting of one male and up to 10 females1. They depend on coral reefs for protection and food, mainly zooplankton.

    Though these peaceful fish can be found throughout many ecosystems, there is little physical difference between populations.

    Hermaphroditism And Sexual Dimorphism

    Lyretail anthias demonstrate protogynous hermaphroditism, much like clownfish. This is the evolutionary ability for the fish to change from female to male depending on internal and external environmental factors.

    Protogynous hermaphroditism is to increase reproduction rates and is especially successful in harem communities. Lyretails like to stay in large aggregations of about 10 females for every one male. When this male leaves or dies, a female will undergo the transition to male to fill this space and to optimize reproduction rates.

    On top of this, lyretails display sexual dimorphism. Simply put, this is when male and female individuals of the same species differ in appearance. For the lyretail anthias, this difference is pretty huge.

    Male lyretail anthias grow considerably larger than females, maxing out at about 6 inches while females typically stay under 3 inches. The bigger difference is in color.

    Female lyretail anthias are sherbet-colored with a yellowy-pink body and bright yellow underbelly; sometimes these fish may be more yellow than pink. The eyes have hints of purple which are further accented by the purple streak that runs along their cheeks.

    Male lyretail anthias are much more ornate. These fish are dark purplish-red with contrasting red fins; like females, they have a bright red streak that runs along their cheeks. They also have an identifiable elongated dorsal spine and some extension to the rest of their fins.

    In the case of a missing male, females have the ability to transition into a male in under a month. If a female harem has been established without a male, the most dominant female will make the transition in about 170-280 days.

    Lyretail Anthias Tank Requirements

    Though beautiful fish, lyretails aren’t the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium. This is largely due to their spatial and dietary needs. Still, the lyretail anthias is considered to be one of the easiest fake anthias to keep.

    Lyretails live above the reef and need open swimming space. In the tank setting, hobbyists also need additional space to comfortably keep large numbers of these peaceful fish together. Because of this, they need at least a 125 gallon aquarium.

    Though these fish will look their best against a natural backdrop of coral, this isn’t always necessary. One of the important factors to remember when keeping these fish is that they are active zooplankton feeders, constantly searching for floating foods.

    A reef aquarium setting will naturally help to maintain these populations of microorganisms so that they don’t need to be manually supplemented as often.

    Are They Hardy?

    Though lyretails aren’t necessarily sensitive to water parameters, they will do best when conditions are maintained and stable. These fish will show their brightest colors with minimal nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank setting.

    Lyretail anthias are generally hardy, though they should only be kept in matured and established systems.

    Temperament

    Lyretail anthias are active fish. They will usually stay at the top of or in front of the live rock, swimming loosely in their harem (video source).

    In general, these fish keep to themselves if conditions are met. Male lyretail anthias can become territorial at times, though they won’t inflict injury on another fish.

    It is also common to see females picking at each other, especially if there is no male present in the tank. At that point, the biggest and brightest females may work out which one will assume the position of male in the group.

    Are They Aggressive?

    That being said, the lyretail anthias is regarded as one of the more aggressive species within the Pseudanthias genus. They are slightly sensitive to imperfections in saltwater tank conditions and parameters, which can affect their individual behaviors.

    As mentioned before, lyretails are constantly searching for food. If food supplies run low, then these fish have been known to become pretty aggressive towards other fish who might pose as competition. This is especially true for smaller and slower-moving species.

    In the same ways, lyretails can become aggressive if space is limited. Though the males are mostly regarded as being territorial, it’s possible that the females will chase after other fish if they feel they don’t have enough space.

    Are They Reef-Safe?

    Yes – Lyretail anthias are one of the best fish to have in a reef tank setting. These fish are close to being completely reef-safe and won’t bother munching on any sessile invertebrates within the tank display.

    Lyretails are only concerned with food that is free-floating in the water column and won’t pick at the rocks like other foragers. These fish can be safely kept with soft corals, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and small polyp stony (SPS) corals without any worry.

    Though there is usually no risk with keeping lyretail anthias in a reef setup, it’s always possible for a fish to start picking at coral for no reason.

    Tankmates

    Not only are lyretail anthias reef-safe, but they’re also a great community fish all around. As mentioned before, space and dietary strains can cause individual fish to become more aggressive, but they can usually be kept with an assortment of fish.

    Lyretail anthias are best kept with other reef species. This includes damselfish, tangs, wrasses, and some angelfish.

    To help prevent issues with aggression, it’s recommended to allow lyretails their own space within the aquarium. For example, these fish will mainly stay at the top of or in front of the rockwork. Other smaller fish that like to stay in the same areas for extended periods of time should be avoided.

    For the most part, though, there is enough space for everyone to get along as long as the tank size is right.

    How Many Can Be Kept Together?

    It’s generally agreed that lyretail anthias will do well in groups of at least 4 or more in the home aquarium. It is preferred to keep more, though this pushes the tank size needed.

    Lyretail anthias are social fish that like to be in small groups. In the wild, they can be seen in larger groups with one male surrounded by several females. In the aquarium, it isn’t too necessary to keep so many of them together.

    Most hobbyists pick up a group of all-female lyretail anthias and allow them to pick a male among themselves; it is best to either pick all small juvenile females or a group of females where one is noticeably larger. Immediately adding a male to the tank can cause rejection and even more aggression between individuals.

    Though these fish are a shoaling species, they actually do just fine on their own in the aquarium. Many reefers have had luck keeping only one lyretail anthias by itself in a full reef tank setting. There have been no noticeable differences in behavior and the fish remains present and active.

    Most times, this fish will transition to a male lyretail anthias when alone.

    Can They Be Kept With Other Anthias Species?

    Depending on tank size, you will be able to keep multiple species of anthias fish together. The trick to getting these combinations to work is by choosing species that aren’t too similar in appearance or behavior. Similar to other species, lyretails will become aggressive to similar-looking fish that aren’t in their harem.

    There are many different kinds of anthias in the aquarium, both true ones and fake ones. The problem is that one is more beautiful than the next, making it difficult to pick and choose which one you want to have in your aquarium.

    Instead, pick species that can tell each other apart, like:

    • Bartlett’s anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)
    • Dispar anthias/Madder seaperch (Pseudanthias dispar)
    • Bicolor anthias (Pseudanthias bicolor)
    • Evansi anthias (Pseudanthias evansi)

    Still, some hobbyists have seen aggression between males of each species, though there is usually no cause for concern. If keeping multiple species of anthias together, the tank should be much larger than the minimum tank size recommended of 125 gallons.

    Diet

    The hardest part of owning lyretail anthias will be keeping them fed. These are very active fish with high metabolisms, so they need to be fed regularly. This is also in addition to their need for small planktonic foods, similar to their natural diet in the wild.

    Luckily, most hobbyists have had success getting their lyretails to accept a wide variety of aquarium foods. For best coloration, you’ll want to provide a varied diet.

    Lyretail anthias are largely carnivores. This means that they need a good assortment of meaty foods to meet their dietary demands. This should include a selection of live, frozen, and freeze-dried options, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and black worms.

    If you’re struggling with getting your fish to eat larger foods, then you may want to try feeding copepods or a specialized food, like Reef Frenzy by Larry’s Reef Services (LRS).

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    Not all lyretails will readily accept flake or pellet food at first, and might not ever accept anything other than their preferred foods. However, if you’re lucky enough that your lyretail anthias do accept other foods, then high-quality flake foods can be the staple of the diet.

    To ensure that your fish are always happy and healthy, it’s recommended to provide feedings 2-3 times a day. They are known for eating throughout the day. They will do better in a reef aquarium with lots of fauna in the tank such as copepods and zooplankton. You can supplement plankton with foods like Benereef. This food contains planktivore content that are loved by Lyretail Anthias.

    Common Diseases

    Though lyretails are hardy fish, they can succumb to common aquarium illnesses rather quickly. For whatever reason, most anthias available in store are usually affected by one ailment or another. Because of this, it’s definitely recommended to provide plenty of time for quarantine before adding them to the main display.

    One of the most common marine diseases your lyretail anthias fish are likely to get is a type of Uronema, usually Uronema marinum. This is a free-living ciliate parasite that uses the host for living, feeding, and reproducing.

    Though most life stages are fulfilled while actively infecting the fish, the parasite can enter the water column and affect other organisms. It can survive on bacteria and detritus within the system indefinitely, meaning that it will survive through fallow periods.

    Uronema is very quick to kill and should not be ignored. Unfortunately, its symptoms can be difficult to diagnose which can take up valuable treatment time. The main symptoms are red bumps and abrasions that eventually grow into large, open sores. Discoloration, flashing, loss of appetite, and heavy breathing also follow.

    Unfortunately, many hobbyists opt to euthanize their fish once this parasite has displayed itself in the home aquarium; usually, the fish is too far gone and it’s better to sacrifice one to save the whole. However, if you manage to catch it early enough and have the proper quarantine setup and medications, then there is still some hope.

    The best course of treatment is a 5 minutes freshwater dip and a dose of metronidazole every 48 hours for 10-14 days. For best results, it’s also recommended to feed medicated food with a binder like Seachem Focus and Seachem MetroPlex.

    Again, introducing this parasite into the main display will cause it to live in the aquarium indefinitely. The best way to prevent it from devastating your tank is by quarantining.

    Final Thoughts

    The lyretail anthias is a beautiful saltwater fish meant for the reef aquarium. In the wild, these fish form harems and feed on planktonic organisms within the water column. This diet can prove to be difficult for some hobbyists, though lyretails usually adapt well to aquarium foods and conditions.

    One of the major diseases to watch out for concerning these saltwater fish is Uronema, though they are very hardy after being acclimated.

  • 11 Best Types of Rasboras: Schooling Fish for Planted and Nano Tanks

    11 Best Types of Rasboras: Schooling Fish for Planted and Nano Tanks

    Rasboras are one of those fish families I keep coming back to after 25 years in this hobby. They’re diverse, peaceful, and ideally suited to the planted nano tanks that have become so popular. The harlequin rasbora is the most iconic โ€” a lot of hobbyists’ first schooling fish โ€” but the family includes chili rasboras, lambchop rasboras, galaxy rasboras (celestial pearl danios), and more, each bringing something distinct to a planted setup. One thing I always mention to people getting started with rasboras: most prefer softer, slightly acidic water. Many will adapt to neutral conditions, but they genuinely thrive when the parameters reflect their natural blackwater habitat. This guide covers 11 of the best species worth considering.

    What Are Rasboras?

    Rasboras are freshwater fish from the Cyprinidae family. That family might sound familiar because it is the same group that includes other well-known aquarium fish like barbs, goldfish, and koi.

    Many of the tiny species were originally placed in the Rasbora genus, butscientists have since split them up into a few different groups. Most of the species in the aquarium trade are from South and Southeast Asia where they live in streams, ponds, and lakes.

    Rasboras are some of the smallest fish species known, and most aquarium species grow to just an inch or two in length. These fish are awesome in nano aquariums, and their peaceful temperaments and great colors have made them firm favorites among fishkeepers all over the world!

    11 Best Types Of Rasboras For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little bit more about rasboras, it’s time to meet 11 great species that you can keep! Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you enjoy our content, please make sure to subscribe!

    I’ve included the most important information to help you choose the best species for your tank. Take note of the following stats for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    So let’s get started!

    1. Harlequin Rasbora

    Harlequin Rasbora
    Harlequin Rasbora

    A peaceful schooling fish. An ideal community fish. A great beginner fish

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    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (20 gallons recommended)
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Harlequin rasbora is an amazing schooling fish for community fish tanks. These fish have awesome black triangular markings on their sides, which contrasts with their golden orange color.

    Harlequin rasboras are one of the most popular aquarium species sold today because they are so peaceful and easy to care for. Keep a group of 8 or more to see the natural schooling behavior of these neat little fish.

    2. Dwarf Emerald

    Dwarf Emerald Rasbora
    Dwarf Emerald Rasbora

    A colorful Rasbora fish that needs large numbers for its personality to really show. Needs at least a group of 10.

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    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys erythromicron
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The dwarf emerald rasbora (video source) is an awesome nano fish for cool water aquariums. They look very similar to galaxy rasboras/ celestial pearl danios and are actually pretty closely related. These tiny fish are really peaceful and don’t get much over an inch in size.

    They are can be shy by nature but will be most comfortable and active in a well-planted aquarium. A group of 6 or more dwarf emerald rasboras would be great in a species-only nano tank, but they can also be kept with other peaceful fish of a similar size.

    3. Chili Rasbora/ Mosquito

    Chili Rasboras
    Chili Rasboras

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    A great nano schooling fish. Males display brighter colors. Best in groups of 6 or more

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    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Chili rasboras (video source) are one of the smallest fish species in the fishkeeping hobby and are also known as the mosquito rasbora. For such a small species, these little guys are really adaptable to different conditions, but they do need excellent water quality to thrive.

    Chili rasbora fish do best when kept on their own but they can be kept with other small species that won’t out-compete them for food.

    4. Blue Axelrodi

    Blue Axelrodi Rasbora
    Blue Axelrodi Rasbora

    A small Rasbora fish that needs a lot of schooling mates to fully feel comfortable in an environment

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    • Scientific Name: Sundadanio axelrodi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live/frozen food
    • Origin: Indonesia, Borneo, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 73-79ยฐF
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue variety of the axelrodi rasbora (video source) is true schooling fish that should be kept in large groups of 20 or more to really shine.

    These tiny fish don’t always accept prepared foods, so be sure to keep a supply of live or frozen foods like daphnia or grindal worms to keep them well-fed.

    5. Spotted/ Dwarf

    Spotted Rasbora
    Spotted Rasbora

    A timid-natured Rasbora that does great with shrimp and snails. Grows to just 1 inch in length

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    • Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The spotted, or dwarf rasbora (video source) is another tiny species that is just perfect for a planted nano tank. This colorful fish has a bright red gill cover and three black spots on its orange body.

    The ideal tank mates for dwarf rasboras are shrimp, snails, and other peaceful nano fish. Keep at least ten of these social schooling fish to keep them confident and active.

    6. Merah

    • Scientific Name: Boraras merah
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The merah rasbora (video source) is another diminutive species for all the nano fish lovers out there! They are also known as the phoenix rasbora.

    This species is very similar to the chili rasbora but is generally less colorful. Like other rasboras, these fish do best in groups because they prefer to school together.

    7. Black Harlequin

    Black Harlequin Rasbora
    Black Harlequin Rasbora

    A variant of the Harlequin Rasbora. Does best in large groups

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    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Very peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5-1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The black harlequin rasbora is a dark variant of the standard harlequin rasbora. This popular species has been a favorite amongst aquarists for over a century, and it’s easy to see why!

    Black harlequin rasboras have the same care needs as the regular species.

    8. Green Kubotai

    Green Kubotai Rasbora
    Green Kubotai Rasbora

    A bright green-colored Rasbora fish. Looks best in dark substrate and lots of plants. A great community fish!

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    • Scientific Name: Microdevario kubotai
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, flakes, and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The green kubotsai rasbora (video source) has an amazing neon green body color. These tiny shoaling fish are a perfect choice for a planted aquarium.

    They can be kept in a species-only tank in groups of 8 or more, or as part of a peaceful nano community.

    9. Exclamation Point

    Exclamation Point Rasbora
    Exclamation Point Rasbora

    One of the smallest fish available in the hobby. Best in schools and easy to care for

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 0.5-0.7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The exclamation point rasbora (video source) is another incredible nano fish from the Boraras genus. If the word Boraras sounds strangely familiar, that’s because this name is an anagram of the word rasbora.

    The exclamation point is one of the smaller rasbora species that you would come across at just half an inch or so in length. It gets its name from the combination of a line and a dot on the fish’s body, which make a perfect exclamation point!

    10. Emerald Eye

    • Scientific Name: Brevibora dorsiocellata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Thailand, Sumatra, Malaysia,
    • Temperature: 68-77ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The emerald eye rasbora is a great-looking schooling fish. These fish have beautiful iridescent green markings from their eyes right down to their tails.

    These small rasboras are very peaceful and stay small, making them an ideal choice for a soft water community setup.

    11. Scissortail

    Scissortail Rasbora in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Rasbora trilineata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The scissortail rasbora grows to a size of 6 inches, making it a giant of the rasbora world! Scissortail rasboras get their name from the interesting way they twitch their caudal fin.

    Like the other rasboras, these schooling fish do best in groups. Scissortail rasboras are a large and active species, so naturally, they need a fairly large tank to have enough room.

    Other Species

    Just in case 11 species wasn’t enough, here are a few more bonus rasboras that you can look out for!

    • Galaxy rasbora/ Celestial pearl danio –Danio margaritatus
    • Blackline rasbora-Rasbora borapetensis
    • Clown rasbora-Rasbora kalochroma
    • Brilliant rasbora- Rasbora einthovenii

    Tank Setup

    Rasboras make great nano fish for small aquariums. Even though they may be tiny, they tend to be very active fish, so a minimum tank size of about 10 gallons is recommended for most of the smaller species.

    Substrate & Decor

    Sand or gravel makes a fine substrate for most rasboras, although a complete aqua soil is often a better choice for planted tanks because rasboras do best in aquariums with abundant aquatic plant growth.

    Adding some driftwood and plenty of live plants will help these fish feel more at home in the aquarium. Plants like Java ferns, cryptocorynes, and amazon swords are great choices because they are easy to grow and don’t need powerful lighting.

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    Lighting & Filtration

    Specialized lighting is not necessary for your rasbora aquarium. While bright light is great for a planted tank, it’s not necessarily the best choice for these fish.

    Most rasboras prefer fairly dim lighting in the aquarium. Growing some red root floaters or other species of floating plants is a good idea because it helps maintain the dim light these fish prefer.

    Rasboras are small fish that prefer still or slow-flowing water. A simple sponge filter will provide adequate filtration for most species.

    For a more compact and aesthetic option, a hang-on back or internal power filter can also be used. Just be sure to set up a prefilter sponge over the intake to prevent any tiny fish from getting sucked in.

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    Whichever filter you prefer, make sure it is capable of excellent mechanical and biological filtration, especially if you are keeping your rasboras in a nano aquarium.

    Care

    Now that you know how to set up a great home for your fish, it’s time to learn how to keep them healthy. Rasboras are pretty easy to care for if you can maintain good water quality and feed them a quality diet. Choosing the right tankmates is also very important since these fish are so small.

    Read on to learn about all of these things and more!

    Aquarium maintenance

    Most rasboras require great water quality, and that’s why regular aquarium maintenance is so important. This might not be everyone’s idea of a good time, but it’s really not such a bad deal.

    Get into the habit of performing a partial water change every week, especially if you keep a nano aquarium. You can use your test kit to monitor the nitrate levels- that way you’ll know if you’re changing enough water.

    Use a gravel vacuum to suck out any solid waste particles from the substrate and give your aquarium glass a good clean with your algae scraper. Once you’re done, you can sit back and admire a beautiful tank with happy rasboras for the rest of the week!

    Behavior & Feeding

    Most species of rasboras available in the aquarium trade are considered micro predators. In their natural freshwater habitats, they feed on tiny crustaceans and other invertebrates.

    In the home aquarium, these fish prefer to feed on frozen and live foods like brine shrimp and daphnia. Most species will feed on dried foods like fish flakes and tropical granules, however. A good food to try is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano formula.

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    Breeding

    Breeding rasboras is not very difficult. In fact, healthy adult fish will breed freely in many home aquariums. These fish produce eggs on a regular basis, so don’t be too surprised if you see some tiny fry in your tank!

    Rasboras aren’t that big on eating eggs, but there are no guarantees that the eggs will be left to hatch. Fortunately, the eggs hatch after just a day or so, and the fry begin swimming 2 or 3 days after that. They will have the best chance of survival if your tank is heavily planted, and contains only rasboras.

    Setting up a small breeding tank will give you a much higher success rate. A small tank with a sponge filter, some floating plants, and some broadleaved plants is ideal for this purpose. Place a conditioned pair into the tank and, with some luck, the female will lay some eggs on the underside of a leaf.

    After the pair have finished breeding, they should be moved back to their regular display tank. The fry grow very fast but must be fed on tiny food like infusoria until they are able to progress to baby brine shrimp.

    Tankmates

    Rasboras make great fish for community tanks because they are so peaceful. Most rasbora species will get along perfectly with similarly sized community nano fish, as long as they all enjoy the same water parameters.

    Let’s take a look at some ideal tank mates:

    The smallest species from the Boraras genus tend to do best in a species-only tank. They can, however, be kept with inverts like:

    Where to Buy

    Some of the different rasbora species are very common in the aquarium trade. Your local fish store probably sells a few popular species, and it’s always worth asking if they can track down something they don’t have in stock.

    These days the greatest selection of species can be found online. Quality retailers like Flipaquatics.com are worth checking out because they stock a wide range of great nano fish.

    FAQs

    Will different they school together?

    Rasboras are peaceful, social fish that will enjoy schooling with other, similar-sized species. It is best to keep at least 6 individuals of each species in your aquarium, even though your different rasboras will probably school together.

    Is a rasbora a tetra?

    Rasboras and tetras are both small schooling fish, but they are not actually related. Most tetras come from South America, while rasboras come from South and Southeast Asia.

    What type of fish is a rasbora?

    Rasboras are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. They are mostly very small schooling fish that feed on tiny organisms.

    What is the smallest?

    The exclamation point rasbora (Boraras urophthalmoides) is the smallest rasbora species you are likely to find in the aquarium hobby. There is an even smaller species, however. The closely related Boraras micros maxes out at just half an inch long!

    Can different types live together?

    You can keep different species of rasboras in the same tank. Make sure that the different rasboras enjoy the same water parameters like pH and temperature, however.

    The different Boraras species are closely related and might hybridize together. Avoid keeping them in the same tank, especially if you plan on breeding your fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Rasboras are probably the best nano schooling fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish are small, peaceful, colorful, and pretty easy to care for. If you’re looking for a fish to put into a planted nano tank, look no further!

    Which is your favorite rasbora species? Let me know in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Coral Beauty Angel Care (A Complete Guide)

    Coral Beauty Angel Care (A Complete Guide)

    Anyone with an interest in keeping marine fish will have, at some point, come across a coral beauty angel. This beautiful fish is a popular choice for saltwater aquariums, thanks to its bright coloration and relatively hardy nature.

    If you’re looking for a comprehensive guide on how to care for your coral beauty angel, look no further! In this post, we’ll go over everything you need to know in order to keep your coral beauty happy and healthy. From food to tank size, we’ve got you covered. So read on and get started!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCentropyge bispinosa
    Common NamesCoral beauty angelfish, two spined angelfish, dusky angelfish
    FamilyPomacanthidae
    OriginIndo-Pacific
    DietOmnivore
    ColorsPurple, blue, orange, yellow, red
    Care LevelEasy
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
    Max Size6 inches
    Temperature Range76 โ€“ 82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef SafeYes
    Available As Tank Breed?Rare

    Origins And Habitat

    The Coral beauty angelfish, sometimes called two spined angelfish, are a longtime favorite in the aquarium hobby due to their small size and bright colors. For many years, these peaceful fish were believed to be a nano species that could fit into tanks under 40 gallons. Now, we have a better understanding of their true needs and requirements.

    These fish are scientifically known as Centropyge bispinosa and are a type of dwarf angelfish from the Pomacanthidae family. They originate from the shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific, like many other colorful aquarium fish available in the trade. There, they live in sheltered coral reef ecosystems in shallow lagoons and slopes.

    In the wild, coral beauty angelfish are not the most abundant or bold species of fish on the reef, and this will translate to the aquarium setting. Instead, they can be found grazing on algae in between the corals and rocks alone or in harems of 3-7 individuals.

    Identification

    Coral Beauty Angelfish

    Coral beauties are easy to identify and it’s clear how they earned their name.

    As a species of dwarf angelfish, the coral beauty grows to about 4-6 inches. They are velvety purple with streaks of yellow and orange embers across their sides. Their bellies usually have the most vibrant oranges and yellows.

    In especially vibrantly-colored fish, light blue margins can be seen along the fins and accenting some facial features.

    How Long Do These Beauties Live?

    Most species of marine fish can live a long time. The coral beauty is no different.

    On average, you can expect your coral beauty to live more than 5 years. In ideal conditions, these saltwater fish have been known to live up to 15 years.

    As we’ll talk about later though, the coral beauty angelfish can quickly succumb to some common aquarium diseases.

    Tank Requirements

    As mentioned before, care requirements for the coral beauty angel have gone overlooked for a very long time. Because of their dwarf size, they were often squished into nano reef tanks that were way too small with incompatible tank mates. Even though the coral beauty angelfish might seem tiny, they actually need a lot of open swimming space.

    coral beauty angelfish centropyge need at least a 55-gallon tank. Some hobbyists will say that a 70 gallon is the bare minimum tank size, but a standard 55 gallon will comfortably house one of these gorgeous fish as long as the rest of the stocking is light.

    The coral beauty angelfish can be shy and they will spend most of their time among the live rock picking at algae; they will also appreciate having several hiding places available throughout this intricate rockwork. However, they like to have free-swimming space as well and will establish loose territories.

    Temperament

    The coral beauty angelfish is a species that comes some territorial aggression.

    Though these fish don’t have overly bold personalities, they will set up some territories throughout the tank that they’ll defend. This is especially true if there are other dwarf angels and marine algae-grazers in the tank competing for the same resources.

    Otherwise, they can be seen peacefully swimming in and out of the rockwork, picking at algae and other microflora.

    Are They Aggressive?

    Just how aggressive is the coral beauty? It depends on the personality of the individual fish.

    Coral beauties can greatly range in aggression. Some hobbyists have dwarf angels that are model citizens while others have difficulty from the start. They have surprisingly been known to intentionally chase and injure other fish, especially ones that threaten their territory or that are similar in appearance.

    There is no way to predict how aggressive your coral beauty might be, which is why having a larger tank size is better than having a smaller one. It may also help to add this dwarf angelfish towards the end of the stocking list.

    Perfect Tank Mates

    Yellow Coris Wrasse - A Great Addition for Pest Control

    Aside from their semi-aggression, coral beauty and angelfish are a community species. They can be put together with most species of colorful reef fish without too many problems.

    Some possible tank mates include

    • Damselfish
    • Tangs
    • Gobies
    • Blennies
    • Wrasses
    • Larger angelfish. Remember that these fish should not be kept with other dwarf angelfish unless kept in a large tank.

    As a species of angelfish, there is a slight disposition for your coral beauty to snack on smaller sessile invertebrates, though most hobbyists have no problem keeping them in a full reef tank setup with a variety of species.

    Can These Beauties Be Kept With Flame Angels?

    For many years, coral beauty and flame angelfish (Centropyge loricula) went together as perfect tank mates. As time went on, hobbyists realized that these two fish aren’t exactly compatible.

    As mentioned before, species of dwarf angelfish, like the coral beauty and flame angel, do not do well together. This is largely due to limited resources and territories in smaller reef aquariums. That being said, this iconic pairing is possible if tank conditions are met.

    In order to keep a coral beauty together with a flame angel, the tank should be at least 125 gallons. At this size, there should be enough space for your fish to peacefully cohabitate, though you can still run into some problems.

    To help diffuse aggression even more, it’s recommended to add the two fish together at the same time. This gives them the same opportunity to establish their own territories without being bullied by the other.

    Can You Keep Multiple Beauties Together?

    In short, no, you cannot keep multiple coral beauties together. However, hobbyists have had some success in especially large systems over 200 gallons.

    Not only do coral beauty angelfish centropyge not naturally congregate in the wild, but you could also run into the same problems as with the flame angel. There simply isn’t enough space for multiple coral beauties to live together in most average reef tank setups.
    In the wild, coral beauty angelfish are rarely seen together. For the moments that they are together, they form small harems. Because this is their natural behavior, it doesn’t make too much sense to try this in the aquarium setting.

    What Do Coral Beauty Angels Eat?

    With such a beautiful fish, you definitely want to get your coral beauty looking the best that it can. Though some of this will depend on the lighting and other water parameters, a high-quality diet will definitely help bring out the best colors of your fish.

    The Coral beauty angelfish is an omnivore, meaning they’ll largely accept most plant- and meat-based foods. Remember that these gorgeous fish spend a significant amount of their time picking algae and other microorganisms off the reef in the wild.

    To best replicate this natural diet, live, freeze-dried, and frozen foods, like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, should regularly be offered. They will also readily accept algae flakes and pellets along with pieces of seaweed. Feedings of live food like blackworms and high quality frozen food like LRS or Rod’s Reef are ideal.

    Coral beauty angelfish can be opportunistic feeders and have been known to go after corals.

    Are They Reef Safe?

    Coral beauties are not considered fully reef safe.

    These dwarf angelfish constantly graze the live rock looking for anything they can eat. Though this helps with algae problems, sometimes these fish get curious and take a bite out of a colony of soft corals. Coral beauty angelfish have been known to eat whole zoanthid colonies overnight and might even nip at large polyp stony (LPS) corals.

    There is no way to know if your coral beauty will be reef safe in the long run. There are ways to deter nipping by making sure that feedings are regular and by meeting all dietary needs. It also helps to keep these hardy fish only when the tank has fully matured to ensure that there is a good population of algae available on the rocks.

    Otherwise, a good majority of hobbyists have luck keeping these saltwater fish in a fully reef tank. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case.

    Do They Eat Hair Algae?

    Treating pest algae with saltwater aquarium fish or invertebrates is a common yet poor practice, especially if you don’t have the tank space. But is the coral beauty an efficient algae-grazer?

    Yes, these saltwater fish are efficient algae-grazers but they can be quite picky. Though your fish might always be picking at the live rock, it might avoid patches of less favorable pest algae, like hair algae. Because there is no guarantee that coral beauties will treat an algae problem and they need substantial space to flourish, they’re not recommended as a cure to a hair algae problem.

    Instead, these beautiful fish can help prevent algae problems. As your fish is constantly picking at the rocks, it’s eating a variety of waste and debris that could eventually give way to algae. If you are looking for marine animals that eat hair algae, check out my algae eater post.

    Breeding

    Like many other aquarium fish, coral beauties have successfully been bred in the display tank setting over the last few years. Captive breeding has led to reduced prices for hobbyists as well as increased sustainability for natural habitats and overall healthier fish. The problem is that most saltwater fish need very large tanks for proper breeding conditions.

    One of the most renowned breeders of the coral beauty angelfish is the Biota Palau Marine Life Nursery located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. This process starts by collecting several pairs of wild-caught angel species and placing them into 100 gallon outdoor systems, close to their original area of collection. You can learn more about their mission and process in the video below by Biota.

    These tanks imitate natural conditions and do not have filtration. Instead, the water is heavily aerated and regular water changes are performed throughout the week. Once the eggs hatch and the fry are successfully collected, the water is filled with different microorganisms, like phytoplankton, for food.

    A balance is created between the demand of the coral beauty angelfish larvae diet and waste buildup. At this time, the fry are too small to have their water changed; they are nearly microscopic with flattened silver bodies and a bright blue line down their dorsal.

    Over the next few months, they can start to eat larger live foods, like brine shrimp, and will develop their adult colors. Soon, they will be a deep royal blue with accents of iridescent orange and yellow and be ready for their permanent home.

    Coral beauty angelfish from Biota are incredibly hardy and vibrant in color. Because they were raised in the aquarium setting, they readily accept most processed foods and are disease-free.

    Can You Breed Them In The Home Aquarium?

    As of yet, there is no major success in breeding these saltwater fish within the home aquarium setting. This is largely due to the space needed to accommodate the parents and the constant food that fry need.

    The Biota Palau Marine Life Nursery is a large facility known for breeding coral beauty angelfish, gobies, and other popular aquarium species.

    Common Diseases

    One of the benefits of getting a captive-bred dwarf angel is that they are free of parasites. Most wild-caught fish need to be treated for internal and external parasites before adding them to the main display tank. Captive breeding mostly eliminates this threat, though they’re still susceptible to common marine fish diseases.

    Though hardy, coral beauty angelfish are notorious for catching ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) and marine velvet ( Amyloodinium spp.). Unfortunately, angelfish can be affected by disease pretty quickly so treatment should be started as soon as possible.

    It should be noted that dwarf angelfish can be negatively affected by copper-based medications, though most hobbyists have no problems with this fish. For fast and safe recovery, it is always recommended to move the fish to a more controlled quarantine tank.

    Final Thoughts

    The coral beauty angelfish has been a popular aquarium fish for a very long time and rightfully so. These beautiful fish have great colors that can’t easily be found on other fish and have mostly docile temperaments. They are also sustainably captive bred which makes them relatively affordable and saves their natural environments.

    However, these fish are still angelfish and caution is needed when attempting to keep them with corals and smaller invertebrates. If you have any questions about coral beauty angelfish care, leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!