Author: Mark Valderrama

  • Fancy Goldfish Types – 12 Best (With Pictures)

    Fancy Goldfish Types – 12 Best (With Pictures)

    Goldfish have been bred and kept as pets for over a millennium, and today, they’re just as popular as ever! In fact, the humble goldfish is probably the most well-known and popular aquarium fish in the whole world.

    Not all goldfish look the same, however. As a result of centuries of breeding, there are now many incredible types of goldfish available for your aquarium! In this article, I’ll be introducing you to the 12 best fancy goldfish types, and giving you a good introduction to their care.

    So let’s get started!

    What Is A Goldfish?

    Goldfish are small to large freshwater fish that are kept in aquariums and ponds across the globe. These fish are members of the Cyprinidae(carp) family.

    In the wild, goldfish can grow to over 15 inches and 9 pounds, although they usually stay below 8 inches in most fish tanks. Modern goldfish range from your regular common goldfish to weird and wonderful breeds like the bubble eyes and telescope goldfish.

    What Makes Them Such Great Pets?

    Goldfish are undemanding pets that are very relaxing to watch. It’s easy to get attached to your goldfish because each individual can have a unique appearance and personality.

    Goldfish are very peaceful aquarium pets that do not show aggression towards each other or other animals in the aquarium. They can live for over a decade, although the more usual lifespan is more like 5 years.

    Where It All Started

    Modern-day goldfish were originally bred from a small wild goldfish species known as Carassius auratus which is native to China and other parts of Eastern Asia. Amazingly, the first records of domestication of the species go back over 1000 years!

    Glass aquariums did not exist hundreds of years ago when goldfish types were being bred, so many of the characteristic features were selected to make these fish look more attractive when viewed from above.

    12 Types Of Goldfish for your aquarium

    Now that you know a little more about the background of one of the world’s favorite fish species, it’s time to meet some fancy goldfish types! Before we get started, here are a few important technical terms to know:

    • Caudal fin: Another name for the tail fin
    • Dorsal fin: The fin on top of a fish’s back
    • Anal fin: The fin closest to the tail on the bottom of a fish
    • Hood: A growth on the top and/or sides of the head of a fancy goldfish. Known as a wen in Chinese.
    • Telescopic eyes: Protruding eyes that stick out from the sides of the head
    • Metallic scales: Glossy, reflective scales
    • Nacreous scales: Multicolored scales
    • Matte scales: Clear scales without color

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel that goes over our list. If you like our content, please subscribe. We post videos every week. We go into more detail in the blog post below.

    1. Fantail

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Double tail

    The fantail goldfish is one of the most popular fancy goldfish breeds. They are best known for their amazing double fins and large, flowing tail fin.

    In this type of goldfish, all the fins are paired except for the dorsal fin. The body is egg-shaped and, when viewed from above, the tail creates a triangular shape.

    Fantail goldfish can have either normal or telescope eyes and are available in a range of different colors and patterns.

    2. Ranchu

    Ranchu Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Well developed hood, no dorsal fin

    The ranchu goldfish is a Japanese breed that is seriously cute. This type of goldfish fish is best known for its prominent hood, thick body shape, and missing dorsal fin. They have a rounded back and small, rounded fins.

    The impressive hood of this fancy goldfish type takes about a year to grow. Ranchu goldfish have double caudal fins that are flared out. When seen from above, this creates an interesting 3-lobed appearance.

    3. Lionchu

    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: No dorsal fin

    The lionchu goldfish is a cross between the popular lionhead and ranchu goldfish breeds. These fish share characteristics of both their parent breeds like their head growths and lack of dorsal fin.

    This relatively new fancy goldfish breed was accepted in 2006 and is thought to have originated in Thailand (video source).

    4. Ryukin

    Ryukin Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-10 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large shoulder hump, pointed head

    The ryukin goldfish is a stunning ancient Chinese breed with a very deep body shape. The body of this fancy goldfish variety is 75% or more of the fish’s body length. The impressive humped back of the ryukin goldfish develops as it gets older.

    Ryukin goldfish have a pointed head that sticks out from their massive body, creating a unique look. They have double fins that can vary in length and a large and prominent single dorsal fin.

    5. Pearlscale

    Pearscale Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Special scales, Spherical body

    Like other goldfish from the double fin group, pearlscale goldfish have all paired fins except for the dorsal fin. The body shape of the pearlscale goldfish is short and rounded, and they can reach the size of an orange!

    These fish have rounded fin tips and there are many varieties of pearlscale goldfish, including fish with oranda goldfish type heads.

    6. Butterfly

    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: 180 degree horizontal paired caudal fins

    The butterfly or butterfly tail goldfish (video source) is a breed that gets its name from its double tail fins. These fins are spread out and flattened. The effect is that the caudal fins look like a flying butterfly when viewed from above.

    This amazing feature isn’t all that’s interesting about this breed though. These fancy goldfish belong to the double-finned group of breeds and butterfly goldfish most often have telescopic eyes/dragon eyes. This breed of goldfish is also available with normal eyes, however.

    7. Oranda

    Oranda Close Up
    • Adult Size: 8-12 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Variable
    • Unique Traits: Large hood, egg-shaped body

    Oranda goldfish are a spectacular breed. They have an egg-shaped body with a prominent hood/wen. These fish have well-developed, flowing fins, including a large dorsal fin.

    They have a similar body shape to the fantail goldfish. There are many different forms of these type of goldfish, with different color hoods and even telescopic eyes.

    8. Black Moor

    Black moor goldfish in aquarium
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Black
    • Unique Traits: All-black color and telescopic eyes

    The black moor is a popular and dramatic-looking telescope eye goldfish breed. These all-black fancy goldfish are one of the most easily recognizable breeds.

    The black moor goldfish has a rounded body and the same double finnage as the typical fantail goldfish.

    9. Veiltail

    Veiltail Goldfish in Aquarium
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large double tail with a straight edge and no fork, sail-like dorsal fin

    The veiltail goldfish is a rare breed that is known for its large and beautiful tail. In this type of goldfish, the caudal fin should be 1 to 1.5 times the length of the body. Furthermore, the lobes of the caudal fin are not forked, and the back edge of the fin should be straight.

    It is not only the tail that is impressive, this breed also has a large, upright dorsal fin. Veiltail goldfish have a similar body shape to the fantail goldfish, with the same double fins. Veiltail goldfish can have matte, nacreous, or metallic scales.

    10. Lionhead

    Lionhead Goldfish
    • Adult Size: 6 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large hood, no dorsal fin

    The Lionhead goldfish is a centuries-old Chinese breed of fancy goldfish. They have a very well-developed hood that covers almost their entire head.

    This breed was created before the ranchu and has a similar egg-shaped body. While they also have paired caudal and anal fins, and no dorsal fin, these slow-moving fish differ from the ranchu by having a fairly straight back.

    11. Bubble Eye

    Bubble Eye Goldfish in Aquarium
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Large sacs(bubbles) below the eyes, no dorsal fin

    The bubble eye is one of the strangest fancy goldfish breeds available. These fish have fluid-filled sacs on their cheeks that make their eyes bulge out and look upwards.

    Apart from their protruding eyes, bubble eye goldfish have the same body shape as the ranchu goldfish and also lack a dorsal fin. Because of this extreme body modification, bubble eye goldfish are pretty weak swimmers and need special care and tank setups to avoid injuries.

    12. Sabao

    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches in length
    • Color Pattern: Red and White
    • Unique Traits: Strongly forked single tail

    This uncommon Japanese breed is also known as the Tamasaba goldfish (video source). They are a single tailed goldfish breed with a strongly forked caudal fin with pointed tail fins, almost like a fast swimming ocean fish.

    While this fancy goldfish variety does have a plump body, the shape is more like a common or comet goldfish than some of the round-bodied breeds. These beautiful fish usually have red and white body colors.

    Colors

    You may have noticed that almost all of the fancy goldfish types in my list are available in varied colors. Let’s take a look at some of the most common goldfish colors:

    • Red
    • Orange
    • Yellow
    • White

    Other Colors

    apart from the regular colors you expect to see on a goldfish, there are also some more subtle and natural color forms available. These include:

    • Green- Green goldfish are actually more of a light bronze color than a true green
    • Black – Black goldfish are relatively rare. The black moor goldfish is a great example of this color morph
    • Blue – Blue goldfish have a dusty black look, rather than a true blue color
    • Wild/Iron – The silvery brown color of wild goldfish
    • Uncolored – Uncolored goldfish have the wild/iron color when young. They often develop brighter adult colors as they mature

    Patterns

    Goldfish come in an almost infinite variety of patterns, and that’s what makes each individual so unique! Apart from single-colored fish, there are some well-recognized goldfish patterns that you are likely to encounter out there like:

    Panda

    These goldfish are also known as magpie or black and white goldfish. They are variously marked in pure black and white.

    Calico/Multicolored

    Calico goldfish usually have nacreous scales. They can have multiple different colors, in complex patterns.

    Redcap

    These goldfish typically have a white body with a red ‘cap’ on the head.

    Whitecap

    These goldfish typically have a red body with a white ‘cap’ on the head.

    Scale Types

    The type of scales is another characteristic that varies between different individual goldfish. Fancy goldfish can have 3 different types of scales. These are:

    Metallic

    This is the most common scale type. Metallic scale types are glossy and reflect a lot of light. These scales are typically single-colored.

    Matte

    This scale type is translucent and does not reflect any light. Goldfish with matte scales do not have typical colors and tend to be a pinkish color.

    Nacreous

    This scale type is a mix between metallic and matte. Goldfish with nacreous scales can be multicolored, like calico goldfish.

    Tank Setup

    Successful goldfish keeping starts with the right fish tank setup for their needs. In this section, we’ll take a closer look at how to set up a great goldfish aquarium.

    Tank Size

    Although many pet stores sell goldfish bowls, the truth is that goldfish need plenty of space. As a general rule, an aquarium of 20 gallons is necessary for keeping a single goldfish, and you’ll need a further 20 gallons for each additional goldfish you add.

    That might sound like a lot of space for a 6-inch fish, but remember that goldfish are very stocky, which makes them very large in relation to their body length. Since they prefer to live in groups, you’ll need a fairly large aquarium to set up the perfect home for your fish.

    Substrate

    A substrate is not absolutely necessary for your tank. A bare bottom aquarium makes cleaning much easier but does not provide a very natural look.

    https://aquariumstoredepot.com/blogs/news/what-do-goldfish-eatGoldfish love to search the substrate at the bottom of the tank while looking for food, and this natural behavior is not possible in a bare bottom tank. To create a more natural environment for your fish, consider using a fine gravel or sand substrate.

    Ideal For Goldfish
    Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

    This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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    Filtration

    An aquarium filter is a very important piece of hardware for your goldfish tank. You can use just about any kind of filter for common goldfish, but weaker swimmers like bubble eye goldfish will do far better with a simple sponge filter that creates a very gentle flow.

    Goldfish produce plenty of waste, so adequate filtration is important. That means you can run several sponge filters or even a combination of a hang-on back or canister filter with additional sponge filters.

    Goldfish like cool, well-oxygenated water. Sponge filters are useful for oxygenating the water, but running a simple airstone or bubbler as well is a good idea.

    Heating

    Goldfish are cool water fish, which means they do not require a heater in many homes. Their ideal temperature range lies between 65-72ยฐF, so if your home gets below these temperatures, a heater will be necessary.

    At the same time, if you live in a tropical climate and the water in your aquarium naturally rises above about 72ยฐF, you would need to keep your tank in an air-conditioned room or run an aquarium chiller to keep your fish comfortable.

    Other Important Parameters

    • pH: 7-8
    • GH: 150ppm
    • KH: 70-140ppm

    Live Plants for Tanks

    Goldfish are omnivorous, and they love to feed on live plants. Unfortunately, this means they are not good fish for aquascaped aquariums. There are, however, a few species of plants that goldfish don’t usually feed on.

    Here are a few popular choices:

    Your other option is to grow fast-growing plants that can keep up with your goldfish’s appetite and provide them with a natural food source. The following species work great for this:

    Fake plants are another option if you would like to green up your tank without growing live plants. Be sure to select plant decorations that are aquarium safe, and have soft, smooth surfaces that can’t damage your goldfish’s eyes or fins.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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    Decorations

    Although decorations aren’t strictly necessary, they are a great way to make your aquarium more aesthetically pleasing.

    You can let your creativity run wild when choosing your decor, but remember to keep the health of your fish in mind.

    Fancy goldfish can be pretty clumsy, and sharp decorations can be a serious hazard for them. Veiltail goldfish, for example, have long flowing fins that can easily tear. Bubble eye goldfish can also burst the fluid-filled sacs on their cheeks on sharp objects.

    Care Instructions

    Goldfish are a relatively easy species to care for once you understand their needs. They are social creatures that should be kept in a pair at a minimum. Let’s take a look at how to keep your fancy goldfish well taken care of.

    Water Quality

    Maintaining good water quality is the key to success for any tank, and a goldfish aquarium is no different. Poor water quality puts your fish under stress, and this can lead to poor health and disease.

    Good water quality is a result of an appropriate size tank, good filtration, correct feeding, and regular maintenance.

    Testing

    In order to keep your goldfish happy and healthy, you will need to keep your water parameters stable at the values listed above. To do this, you’ll need a test kit so that you can measure and monitor your water chemistry.

    A liquid test kit is all that you will need. Choose a test kit that allows you to measure all of the following parameters:

    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate
    • pH

    An inexpensive aquarium thermometer is also useful for monitoring the water temperature in your aquarium.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfish are hardy fish, but they do need good water quality and regular maintenance and monitoring. This means you’ll need to roll up your sleeves and get your hands wet every now and then to keep your pet’s tank in great shape.

    Water changes and gravel vacuuming are the two most important maintenance activities, and you will need to do this every week or two. The bigger your tank, and the fewer fish you keep, the longer you can go between water changes.

    Remember to test your nitrate levels regularly, because this will help you work out the perfect maintenance schedule for your tank. Ideally, you should aim to keep your nitrates to 20ppm, but goldfish are hardy fish, so anything below 50ppm before a water change is still well below their tolerance level.

    Use your gravel vacuum or python system to suck up any waste at the bottom of your tank while removing water, and take this time to scrape off any algae that is growing on the glass of your aquarium.

    Python Cleaner

    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

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    The new water you put into the tank should be the same temperature as the water you took out, and always remember to use a water conditioner to neutralize harmful chemicals like chloramine in tap water.

    Feeding Instructions

    Goldfish are omnivorous, which means they eat both plant and animal foods. High protein diets can be good for improved growth and color, but balance is very important. To keep your goldfish in great health, always feed them a high-quality, varied diet.

    The following food sources are recommended:

    • High-quality sinking pellets
    • Frozen brine shrimp
    • Frozen bloodworms
    • Vegetables

    Many keepers feed floating foods without any issues, but there are reports of fish ingesting too much air while feeding at the surface. If your fish develops buoyancy issues, a change of diet may be necessary.

    In warmer water, you can feed your goldfish 2 or 3 times a day. In cooler water, your fish will be less active and can be fed once a day or so. Avoid overfeeding your pets by only supplying enough food for them to finish within about 2 minutes.

    For some clumsy fancy goldfish, 2 minutes may not be enough time for them to finish a meal. Another rough estimate then is to feed your fish a portion size that is the same size as one of their eyes.

    Tankmates

    It is best to keep goldfish in a species-only tank. Furthermore, slow-moving fancy goldfish types should only be kept with other goldfish with similar needs, rather than with faster moving single tail common goldfish. This is to give the fancy goldfish a fair chance at reaching the food at mealtimes.

    There are some other fish that are compatible with goldfish. Goldfish community tanks are only a good idea for more experienced goldfish keepers though. The important thing is that any tank mate must be peaceful and enjoy the same cooler water temperatures.

    Possible options include:

    Breeding

    Although it can be challenging, it is possible to breed your goldfish at home. For starters, you will need an adult pair. Unfortunately, the goldfish sexes are not that easy to tell apart.

    You can identify a male goldfish by his smaller, more streamlined body. You may also notice spots on his pectoral fins, and small bumps (tubercles) that develop on his gill covers when ready to breed.

    Female goldfish tend to be heavier, with deeper bodies. The vent of a female goldfish will also protrude slightly when she is in breeding condition.

    Goldfish prefer to breed in the spring, and if you find one of your goldfish is constantly following another one, you could have a breeding pair. When ready, they will spawn on plants in the aquarium and this is where the eggs will stick.

    You will need to move the plant with eggs to a separate tank or container. Run an airstone in this tank to keep the eggs well oxygenated. The fertilized eggs will hatch in just days.

    If successful, you will have a huge number of fry to feed with baby brine shrimp. Congratulations!

    Health Problems

    Goldfish are generally hardy, but they can be susceptible to a few common goldfish conditions such as:

    • Swim bladder disease and other buoyancy issues
    • Polycystic kidney disease
    • Parasites such as anchor worms and fish lice
    • Bacterial infections such as fin rot
    • Fungal infections

    The best way to prevent health problems is to keep your fancy goldfish in excellent water quality, feed them a high-quality diet, and keep their water at the correct temperature.

    Due to the heavily modified body shapes of some of the fancy goldfish breeds, they can be affected by a few specific problems. Eye and fin injuries can be avoided by keeping sharp objects out of the tank.

    Bubble eye goldfish can be very susceptible to infections if their bubbles should become damaged. Fortunately, their bubbles can heal and restore themselves naturally under ideal circumstances.

    You can prevent exhaustion in weaker swimmers like ranchu goldfish by running sponge filters, rather than power filters.

    Where To Buy

    Goldfish are one of the easier types of fish to find at your local pet store. Most aquarium stores sell common goldfish as feeder goldfish for other carnivorous aquarium fish. For different types of goldfish and fancy breeds, buying online or getting in touch with a local club is another great option.

    FAQS

    How many types are there?

    There are about 200 types of goldfish breeds recognized today. Many of these fancy goldfish breeds are ancient, although breeders continue to create new fish today.

    What type can live together?

    Goldfish are peaceful animals that do not fight with each other. The only consideration when putting different breeds together is their speed and ability to compete for food.

    It is best to not keep fast-moving breeds like comet goldfish with slower breeds like the lionhead goldfish.

    Which is the hardiest?

    The hardiest fancy goldfish are probably the breeds that are most similar to the regular common goldfish. Single-tailed types of goldfish like the comet goldfish are a good example.

    What is the difference between a regular and a fancy breed?

    Fancy goldfish are special breeds that have been bred for various traits like body and fin shape, double fins, head growths, and bubble eyes. A regular common goldfish can still be a beautiful fish but is not considered a fancy goldfish.

    Which is the most popular?

    The classic fantail is probably the most popular of the fancy goldfish varieties.

    Final Thoughts

    The fancy goldfish varieties make some of the best pets in the aquarium world because they are just so adorable and full of personality. I love that there are so many different types of goldfish and the rich history behind these fish is fascinating.

    Which is your favorite goldfish breed? Let me know below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 15 Best Aquarium Shrimp Types: From Beginner to Advanced (Plus the Copper Warning)

    15 Best Aquarium Shrimp Types: From Beginner to Advanced (Plus the Copper Warning)

    Aquarium shrimp have exploded in popularity over the last decade, and after 25 years in this hobby I completely understand why. Adding a thriving colony of dwarf shrimp to a planted tank โ€” watching the constant movement, the colors, the babies appearing โ€” is genuinely one of the most satisfying things you can do in this hobby. But shrimp are different from fish in one critical way that catches a lot of beginners off guard: they’re extremely sensitive to copper. Many fish medications, fertilizers, and even some tap water additives contain trace copper that fish tolerate fine but that will wipe out an entire shrimp colony. That’s the most important thing to understand before you start. This guide covers 15 aquarium shrimp types, ranging from beginner-friendly to more advanced species, so you can find the right fit for your setup.

    What Are Aquarium Shrimps?

    What Are Aquarium Shrimp

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp are tiny crustaceans from the Atyidae family. Although there are many different colors available, most of them have been produced through selective breeding and there are just a few very popular species.

    The 3 most commonly kept groups of freshwater aquarium shrimps are:

    • Caridina species like the Taiwan bee shrimp
    • Neocaridina species like the cherry shrimp
    • Palaemonetes species like the ghost shrimp

    Other freshwater shrimp types that are kept include:

    Neocaridina vs Caridina

    The Neocaridina and Caridina genera are the two most popular aquarium shrimp, and they have been bred into an amazing variety of colors and patterns. Apart from their different color patterns, these freshwater shrimp look very similar, and you need a very well-trained eye to tell them apart based on their body structures.

    Nevertheless, these animals come from two distinct genera and cannot breed together. They also have pretty different needs which makes it very important to know exactly which kind of shrimp you are caring for.

    The Neocaridina genus includes very popular dwarf shrimp species like red cherry shrimp, babaulti shrimp, and snowball shrimp. Neocaridina species are ideal beginner shrimps that tend to be easy to care for and breed.

    Caridina shrimp are better for more experienced shrimp keepers. These awesome animals include freshwater shrimp species like the Sulawesi shrimp/cardinal shrimp.

    Top 15 Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Types

    Now that you know a little more about the different types of freshwater shrimps, it’s time to get into the fun stuff, and get to know the best-looking and most useful shrimp types for your tank!

    For each freshwater shrimp species I’ll be listing the following important care information that you need to know:

    • Species
    • Difficulty Level
    • Adult Size
    • pH
    • TDS
    • GH
    • KH
    • Diet
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Gestation Period
    • Planted tank suitability

    Below is a video from our YouTube Channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe to us on YouTube where we post new videos every week!

    So let’s meet some interesting inverts!

    1. Fire Red Cherry Shrimp

    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Number one on this list has to be the fire red cherry shrimp. This is a really popular freshwater shrimp with deeps. This cherry shrimp that is easy to care for and actually helps maintain your tank!

    The fire red cherry shrimp is the ideal choice for beginners because they are hardy and easy to feed and breed. These active shrimp are very entertaining and work great in a planted nano tank. Neocaridina davidi is an adaptable species that can be kept in temperatures between about 60ยฐF and 85ยฐF.

    2. Amano

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina multidentata/ C. japonica
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • TDS: 80-450 ppm
    • GH: 1-15dGH
    • KH: 1-10dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Amano shrimp was introduced to the hobby by Takashi Amano way back in the 1980s. Since then, these excellent inverts have been a staple in the planted tank hobby because they are algae eaters which makes them a great part of any clean-up crew. They are one of the few shrimps that are known for eating black brush algae.

    Amano shrimps are a little larger than cherry shrimp and tend to be relatively long-lived. While they might not have the same bright colors as some of the other Caridina species, The ‘natural’ look is great for nature aquariums. They also will only breed with the same species and cannot successfully reproduce in freshwater only!

    3. Blue Dream

    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Blue animals can be pretty hard to find for freshwater aquariums. Fortunately, the blue dream shrimp is an excellent exception!

    These unique and eyecatching forms of the popular cherry shrimp are just as easy to care for but provide a different dimension of color. These inverts provide a number of benefits for the health of your aquarium, just like regular cherry shrimp.

    4. Sunkist Orange

    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Sunkist orange is another color variant of Neocaridinia davidi, and these guys really know how to brighten up an aquarium! These shrimp look amazing in planted tanks with a dark substrate that makes their colors pop.

    They are also known as orange sakura shrimp, and they are pretty hardy and low maintenance. These shrimp are another great choice for beginner shrimp keepers.

    5. Yellow Goldenback

    Yellow Goldenback Shrimp

    The goldenback offers a yellow shrimp with a translucent line on the middle of their backs. They look amazing in dark backgrounds

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    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The yellow goldenback shrimp is another form of the cherry shrimp. In terms of color, these inverts pack a lot of punch for such a small animal. These shrimp have a solid gold-yellow line along their back from their nose to their tail, and the rest of the body is a translucent yellow color.

    6. Tangerine Tiger

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina serrata
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 6.5-7.8
    • TDS: 100-250ppm
    • GH: 5-6dGH
    • KH: 0-5dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The tangerine tiger is a relatively hardy Caridina species. Like the popular Amano shrimp, these crustaceans make a great addition to your tank as a dedicated member of the clean-up crew.

    These shrimp are a great starter for keepers who are new to the world of Caridina, and they can even be mixed with Neocaridina species because they will not breed together.

    7. Crystal Red

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • TDS: 100-200ppm
    • GH: 4-6dGH
    • KH: 0-2dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The crystal red shrimp is cool-water shrimp that is most at home in water between 64ยฐF and 76ยฐF. They were originally bred from the Taiwan Bee shrimp and their bold colors are reminiscent of the koi fish.

    To achieve these colors, they have been selectively bred, and today they are available in a variety of grades. The crystal red shrimp is one of the best-looking inverts in the hobby, but they do require more experience and they tend to be fairly expensive.

    8. Green Jade

    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The green jade shrimp is a beautiful color variant of the popular cherry shrimp. They have very similar markings to the yellow goldenback, with the same ‘racing stripe’ along their back. They differ in their amazing jade-green body color.

    9. Blue Bolt

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 5.6-6.2
    • TDS: 100-200ppm
    • GH: 4-6dGH
    • KH: 0-2dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue bolt shrimp is a stunning, but difficult to keep, cross between the Taiwan Bee shrimp and the crystal black shrimp. These eye-catching shrimp have speckled whitish bodies, with blue heads and reddish eyes.

    10. Red Rili

    Red Rili Shrimp

    A striking red and white shrimp that is hardy and easier to care for

    Click For Best Price
    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The red rili shrimp is a great option for inexperienced keepers who want the red and white colors of something like a crystal red. As a product of selective breeding of the cherry shrimp, they are relatively hardy. Unlike the more expensive crystal shrimp, red rili shrimp have more translucent bodies.

    11. Glass (Ghost)

    Ghost Shrimp
    • Shrimp Species: Palaemonetes sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 7-7.8
    • TDS: 150-200
    • GH: 3-15dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 3 weeks
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Glass shrimp, which are also known as ghost shrimp, are native to North America. Ghost shrimp are often sold at your local fish store as feeder animals for larger fish, but they actually make awesome pets.

    There are a few different species of shrimp known as ghost shrimps, and they get their name from their translucent body. Buying these shrimp can be a bit of a gamble because some ghost shrimp species are actually adapted to brackish or salt water.

    12. Chocolate

    • Shrimp Species: Neocaridina davidi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches
    • pH: 7-8
    • TDS: 200-300ppm
    • GH: 4-8dGH
    • KH: 3-15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The chocolate or black rose shrimp is a really attractive but understated color morph of the cherry shrimp. Their color varies from an almost red-brown color to brown speckled over a clear yellow body. These shrimp are easy to care for and will be a great addition to a planted tank.

    13. Black Pinto

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate-Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • TDS: 100-200ppm
    • GH: 4-6dGH
    • KH: 0-2dKH
    • Diet: Herbivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The black pinto shrimp is a selectively bred variant of the bee shrimp. These stunning inverts are best suited for more experienced shrimp keepers because they are sensitive and require excellent water conditions.

    14. Black King Kong

    King Kong Shrimp

    An all black shrimp. A rare shrimp that requires extra care to keep

    Click For Best Price
    • Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate- advanced
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 5-6
    • TDS: 100-200 ppm
    • GH: 4-6dGH
    • KH: 0-2dKH
    • Diet: Herbivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These incredibly marked inverts are also known as the panda shrimp or black king kong pandas. They are rare and high-end animals, that come at a cost, but they’re worth it if you ask me! If you’re an experienced shrimp keeper, this type is definitely worth considering.

    15. Extreme Wine Red

    • Shrimp Species: Caridina cantonensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate- Advanced
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • pH: 5-6
    • TDS: 100-200ppm
    • GH: 4-6dGH
    • KH: 0-2dKH
    • Diet: Herbivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Gestation Period: 30 days
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The extreme wine red shrimp has a very dark red body with lighter-colored legs, tail, and mouthparts. Like the black king kong, these valuable shrimp are descendants of the bee shrimp. The extreme wine red is a hugely popular but rare variant that is best suited to experienced aquarists.

    Freshwater Aquarium Tank Setup

    Shrimp have much the same needs as tropical fish when it comes to their tank set up. This means an adequately sized aquarium with a filter and a heater(in temperate climates) is necessary. Let’s take a look at how to create the perfect tank environment for your shrimp.

    Tank Size

    Shrimp are very small animals that contribute very little to the bio-load of an aquarium. For this reason, many shrimp keepers are able to maintain their shrimp in tanks of just a few gallons.

    For beginners, however, a larger tank of 10 gallons or more will help in maintaining safe, stable water parameters. For the more sensitive Caridina species, a tank of 15-20 gallons is ideal.

    Filtration

    Filtration is vital in any aquarium, and freshwater shrimp setups are no different. The type of filter you run in your tank is important, however, especially if you are going to be breeding them.

    Shrimp are not the strongest swimmers, and they love looking for new places to hide. This can mean trouble and they can easily be sucked into the intake of a power filter.

    I would suggest a simple, air-powered sponge filter, although a hang-on back or internal power filter are also good options as long as you set up a prefilter sponge to keep your pets out of the intake. You can make your own prefilter sponge, or select a model that provides this option.

    Flow rate is also important when selecting a filter for your shrimp tank. choosing a model that is designed for your tank size is very important, and an adjustable flow rate will help in keeping the current down.

    Substrate

    You can keep your shrimp on an inert substrate like sand or gravel. These are good options for non-planted tanks or setups with floating and epiphytic plants.

    Active aquarium soils like Tropica Aquarium soil or UNS Controsoil are better options for heavily planted tanks with stem and rosette plants. These soils can also be helpful in buffering the pH and keeping it down to ideal levels.

    Tropica Aquarium Soil

    A top grade planted tank substrate from Europe. More natural looking than ADA Soil

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Live Plants

    Freshwater shrimps do very well in planted tanks. Plants are very helpful for taking up excess nutrients, oxygenating the water, and generally improving water quality. If you’re new to growing live plants, I would suggest starting out with some easy to grow, low-light plants like:

    Shrimp can, however, also be kept in high-tech, CO2-injected tanks, provided the gas is kept in the safe range of below 30 ppm.

    Freshwater shrimp are very sensitive to copper found in some plant fertilizers. Keep this in mind when picking up any products for your plants.

    Freshwater plants are a very common source of unwanted pests in the aquarium. Don’t be discouraged though, there are safe ways to green up your tank. I would suggest growing tissue culture plants to avoid introducing pests like planaria that can kill shrimp.

    Water Parameters

    When discussing the needs of freshwater shrimp (or any aquarium fish or plant for that matter), aquarists are most concerned with the following parameters:

    • pH: The level of the alkalinity or acidity of the water.
    • GH: A measure of dissolved salts (particularly magnesium and calcium) in the water
    • KH: A measure of the carbonates and bicarbonates in the water. These affect the stability of the pH
    • TDS: Total dissolved solids in the water, measured in parts per million

    The only way to reliably monitor these parameters is to test them regularly.

    Don’t sweat it, you don’t need a degree in chemistry for this. All you need is some simple test kits and a TDS meter to start out. They’re easy to use, and pretty fun too!

    My Pick
    HM Digital TDS Meter

    Readily available online, this TDS Meter is perfect for ensuring your levels are optimum for your shrimp

    Buy On Amazon

    Water Quality

    Together with the parameters listed above, there are some other chemicals found in your water that increase when uneaten fish food and waste accumulate. These are nitrogen compounds called Ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. These parameters should be kept at:

    • Ammonia: 0ppm
    • Nitrite: 0ppm
    • Nitrate:<20 ppm

    These parameters can also be tested with your strip tests.

    Before adding any shrimp to an aquarium, make sure it is fully cycled. A cycled aquarium will not produce any ammonia or nitrite as these harmful chemicals are converted into nitrates by beneficial bacteria.

    If this sounds like a different language to you, go ahead and check out my article on fishless cycling.

    A build-up of nitrates is to be expected in any tank. This is easily managed by performing regular partial water changes.

    Care

    Freshwater shrimp are generally easy to care for once you get the basics right. Shrimp are small, sensitive creatures, so slowly and carefully acclimating them to your tank is important. They are naturally social creatures, so make sure you keep them in a group of at least 10 or so.

    Read on for some more important shrimp care tips.

    Feeding

    Shrimp are often kept as part of an aquarium’s clean-up crew. Some species like the Amano shrimp eat algae, and most shrimp will be more than happy to pick up the scraps of leftover fish food. Other freshwater shrimp species like bamboo shrimps, for example, are actually filter feeders.

    In the right sort of setup, you might not have to feed your shrimp at all, but this is only really safe in mature established tanks that have some algae and other natural food sources.

    In most cases, you’ll want to feed your shrimp a healthy, balanced diet. This can be done once per day, and remember to avoid overfeeding. Let’s take a look at some good freshwater aquarium shrimp food sources:

    Maintenance

    Shrimp need good water quality, and that means regular tank maintenance is necessary. You will need to perform a regular water change in the aquarium once a week or so to remove physical waste and reduce the nitrate levels in the water.

    Great care is necessary since shrimp are small and can easily be sucked up by your gravel vacuum. A good workaround for this problem is to fit some fine mesh or stocking over the end of the gravel vacuum.

    Be sure to treat the new water with a water conditioner and match the temperature to your tank water before adding it to your aquarium.

    Tankmates

    One of the most common questions aquarists ask is what kind of fish they can keep with their shrimp. Most shrimp make incredibly peaceful tank mates, but the challenge is that other animals tend to kill or eat them. Unfortunately, this means they don’t always work well in a community tank.

    Freshwater snails are one of the best tank mates for your shrimp. I would suggest nerites and mystery snails because they will not breed out of control and compete with your shrimp for food resources.

    There are very few fish that are completely shrimp-safe, especially if you are breeding your shrimp. Even adult shrimp can be picked at by surprisingly small fish. To be completely safe, a shrimp-only tank is your best bet.

    Keeping fish with your shrimp is possible, however. Let’s take a look at a few potential peaceful fish tank mates:

    When choosing fish as tank mates, it is best to assume that any species could be a potential threat to your baby shrimp. To be on the safe side, make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces for your shrimp in case they need to retreat from their tank mates!

    Breeding

    Breeding your aquarium shrimp can be very easy (video source). The secret to success is simply to provide your shrimp with excellent water quality and the parameters they need to stay healthy. This is a lot easier to do with hardy Neocaridina shrimp species than the sensitive Caridina species.

    Although the males tend to be a little smaller, sexing your shrimp is very difficult. For this reason, stating your shrimp colony with at least 10 individuals is recommended since this should provide you with at least a few of either sex.

    If your shrimp are happy and healthy, you will probably be amazed to see tiny shrimp in the tank after a little while. Specialist baby shrimp foods are available to give the little ones the perfect nutrition.

    Baby shrimp will often be eaten pretty quickly in a community fish tank. Providing them with plenty of cover in the form of floating plants is one way to minimize your losses, but it’s far better to grow your colony in a shrimp-only tank.

    Avoid keeping different colors variants in the same tank if you’re going to be breeding your shrimp for specific colors. If they aren’t kept separately, they will breed together and lose their colors, producing pretty dull-looking offspring.

    Where To Buy

    If you’re looking for ghost shrimp, they can usually be found at your local fish store or even big box stores. For the higher quality and higher grade shrimp, I would check out an online fish store like Buce Plant. Not only do they stock an amazing range, but you can also pick up a couple of tissue culture plants from them at the same time to really get your tank started!

    My Pick
    Buce Plant

    Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

    Click For More Info

    FAQS

    Which kinds are used in aquariums?

    There is quite a variety of freshwater shrimp types available in the aquarium hobby. The most popular are certainly the Neocaridina and Caridina species.

    Which kinds can be kept together?

    Most of the dwarf freshwater shrimp can be kept together. It can be tough to match the parameters between the different types, however, so selecting a single species of shrimp is usually a safer bet for beginners.

    Which are the hardiest?

    The ever-popular cherry shrimp is considered by many aquarists to be the hardiest freshwater aquarium shrimp. Bamboo shrimp and glass shrimp are other close contenders.

    Are they easy to keep?

    Freshwater shrimp can be very easy to keep. For beginners, they are not as easy as some fish species, so be sure to get all your research done and your tank set up correctly before starting with shrimp.

    What are some common types?

    The freshwater shrimp that you are most likely to come across are cherry shrimp, Amano shrimp, and ghost shrimp. The various types of bee shrimps are also popular, and other shrimp species like bamboo shrimp are also available.

    Final Thoughts

    Freshwater shrimp are wonderful pets. They don’t need a lot of space, and they’re just as entertaining as fish (if you ask me anyway). The ongoing development of this side of the hobby is very exciting and I can’t wait to see which new breeds and species of shrimp will become available!

    Which of the 15 shrimp types in this list do you like best? Let me know below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 7 Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    7 Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    Five gallon tanks are the perfect entry point into the hobby โ€” small enough to fit anywhere, large enough to create a genuinely beautiful setup. I recommend the Fluval Spec V constantly as a starter tank because of its built-in filtration and clean design, but there are several solid options depending on whether you’re setting up a betta tank, a shrimp tank, or a planted nano. Having set up countless small tanks over 25 years, I know what separates a quality 5 gallon from a frustrating one โ€” this guide covers the best options I’d actually recommend.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their tank choice anxiety (and believe me, there are so many aquariums to choose from today). Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best 5 gallon fish tank on the market.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice!
    Fluval Spec V
    Fluval Spec V
    • Built in Filtration
    • Plant Light
    • Peninsula Style
    Best Value
    Lifegard Full View Aquarium
    Lifegard Full View Aquarium
    • Unique View
    • Built in Filtration
    Budget Option
    Marineland Portrait
    Marineland Portrait
    • Built in Filtration
    • Price

    To those in a hurry, the Fluval Spec V is the best 5 gallon fish tank you can buy today. It really has it all. It has the best of everything of all the aquariums I reviewed in this post – the best light, the best filtration, and the best dimensions. The other aquariums are here mostly due to them being cheaper than this wonderful aquarium.

    The Lifegard is a great value choice for those who want to spend a bit less but still want good features that you get from the Spec V. It is cheaper than the Spec V aquarium kit and you can select your lighting unit. The Marineland offers a budget friendly setup that is best used for a fish only setup.

    The Candidates – A Quick Overview

    Now that you know what my top picks are, let’s look at the others I reviewed. I limited my choices down to 7 as there are a large number of choices out there and I want to limit my focus on only ones I would consider for myself.

    PictureNameFeaturesLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Fluval Spec V
    Fluval Spec V
    • Built In Filtration
    • Plant Light
    • Peninsula Style
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    Lifegard Full View Aquarium
    Lifegard Full View Aquarium
    • Unique View
    • Built In Filtration
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Marineland Portrait
    Marineland Portrait
    • Built In Filtration
    • Price
    Buy On Amazon
    Fluval Evo 5 Fluval Evo 5
    • Built In Filtration
    • Coral Light
    • Peninsula Style
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Hagen Fluval Chi Aquarium Kit Hagen Fluval Chi Aquarium Kit
    • Zen style
    • Filtration
    • Lights
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    biOrb Classic biOrb Classic
    • Fish bowl
    • Filtration
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    biOrb Flow biOrb Flow
    • Lid
    • Filtration
    • Peninsula Style
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon

    The 7 Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks Reviewed

    Let’s take a look at each aquarium in detail and see why they made the list. Starting with Fluval Spec V. We got a video from our YouTube Channel you can follow along as well. Give us a sub if you like our content!

    1. Fluval Spec V

    Editor’s Choice!
    Fluval Spec V

    The Best 5 Gallon Fish Tank

    The best filtration, best light, and perfect size. Everything you need to get started. It’s the perfect small tank!

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Fluval Spec V is the perfect 5 gallon fish tank. It is an all-in-one tank that comes with a 3 stage filtration system and a light. This aquarium was such a great product, that I listed it as the best betta tank you can buy. It makes the top spot in this round up.

    The 3 stage filtration unit is as good as you can get at this tank size. It runs off sponges for the mechanical filter stage, carbon for chemical, and includes Fluval’s biomax for its biological filter media section. I love how they use sponges such this keeps you from having to buy cartridges – which can get expensive over time.

    Fluval Spec V Filteration System

    Above is a photo of the filtration unit. The return section as enough room to place an aquarium heater, which gives this system a very clean presentation. The peninsula style view makes this look like a stylish aquarium. It can enjoyed from three sides, which gives you plenty of placement options.

    The light is also a big plus. It is powerful enough to work with low light plants. The lid keeps evaporation down and this aquarium stable.

    It really is the perfect tank at 5 gallons. The only downside is that it is on the expensive side. Other than that it’s the aquarium to get on this list. Buy it now if it is in your price range!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Best filtration unit
    • Best LED Light
    • Looks amazing!
    Cons
    • Powerful pump
    • Expensive

    2. Lifegard Full View

    Best Value
    Lifegard Full View Aquarium

    Lifegard offers a 5 gallon aquarium with built in filtration and a unique viewing pane

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    If you are looking to get an aquarium that presents bigger than it really is, the Lifegard Full View is a great option. It has a patented glass tank with a front viewing pane that is angled. This gives you a larger viewing area when viewing the aquarium from the front.

    Like the Fluval, it has a built in 3 stage filtration system that uses a sponge for mechanical filtration. It has enough enough room in the back to place a heater. The dimensions make it easier to install planted LED or reef led system depending on what setup you are going for. It also has a drain system that allows for quicker water changes!

    If you are going the planted tank route, the system has an integrated line to place your CO2 diffusor. All of this comes with a very reasonable price. It’s one of the best value buys in the 5 gallon range. The main downfall is the system does not come with a light and the return pump is on the weaker side.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Unique viewing pane
    • Rimless design
    • Good price
    Cons
    • No light included

    3. Marineland Portrait

    Marineland Portrait

    This 5 gallon aquarium has the space for a small fish to start out in

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    The Marineland Portrait aquarium kit is a great budget option that comes with a 3 stage filtration unit and a light. The tank comes with a glass canopy to keep evaporation at bay. The price is very affordable. The tall setup makes this tank a bit more accommodating when setting it up on a desktop

    The light is a basic one, so do not plan on housing any special plants. The all-in-one chamber also cannot house a heater, so you will need to place it inside the tank. It uses a filter cartridge system, which can get expensive overtime. Given the starting price though, it’s a great budget tank.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Fully covered
    • Great price
    Cons
    • Basic light
    • Cartridge based filtration

    4. Fluval EVO 5

    Fluval EVO 5

    An excellent choice for those looking to attempt a pico reef tank. Built in filtration and light means this pico reef ready

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    The Fluval Evo 5 is the Spec version designed for saltwater aquariums. It’s the smaller version of the EVO 13, the budget option choice of my best nano tank post. This tank has everything you need to successful make a pico reef tank (reef tanks 5 gallons and under).

    The three stage filtration chambers gives you space to put whatever you want and need for your setup and can fit an aquarium heater in the return chamber. The reef light is adequate for basic soft corals like zoas and mushrooms. I actually prefer the way this is designed over the 13 because I like the more open look on top. It gives a clean rimless like look that shows well on a desk.

    If you are looking for a small pico reef tank, this is the aquarium to buy. It’s perfectly designed for it. The price isn’t that bad from a saltwater reef tank perspective.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • 3 stage filter
    • Designed for Saltwater
    • Good start coral light
    Cons
    • Will only support basic soft corals
    • May need flow upgrade

    5. Hagen Fluval Chi

    Fluval Chi Aquarium

    A great looking aquarium. Accents well in the home. Great for desktops and a great size for a single Betta Fish

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    The Fluval Chi is easily the best looking aquarium kit on this list. This elegant design starts with its clean horizontal shape and water flow, which are inspired by Feng Shui!

    The water flow is made with a specially designed filtration unit. It filters from the bottom of your aquarium and then makes its way to you in an elegant fountain like stream, creating calm for all those who need it most! The water flow is so calm that it requires no modification for fish that need calmer waters, like Betta Fish.

    So why isnโ€™t this aquarium at the top of my list? It sounds amazing so far. Well, there are a few things that put me off including the LED lightning and how the filter is connected to it. The light is basic and will not work even for beginner plants.

    The filtration system is built into the light which means if either it or your filter fail you have to buy an entire unit. The price to replace the light/filter combo is nearly as much as an entire aquarium kit! It’s a great looking aquarium thought. As long as you are aware of that risk, it shows very well in a home.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great looking aquarium
    • Therapeutic
    Cons
    • Failure risk
    • Tank dimensions

    6. biOrb Classic

    Want to get a fish bowl, but not deal with the guilt of having one? If so, biOrb is the aquarium to buy. It looks like a fish bowl, but has a filter built in just like all the aquariums on this list. This filter is based with simplicity in mind. It runs off undergravel filtration principles with a few extra touches to work as a 3 stage filter.

    You get an aquarium, filter, and light with this setup. The aquarium is designed by OASE, which makes the recommended Canister Filter and Internal Power Filter in my reviews.

    The aquarium is only 4 gallons, thought you can upgrade to an 8 gallon. The price is on the high end, putting it in competition with the Spec V. If the Spec V wasn’t such a great tank, this would make it higher on the list.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great looking aquarium
    • Therapeutic
    Cons
    • Failure risk
    • Tank dimensions

    7. biOrb Flow

    biOrb Flow

    A step up in size and funtionality to the biOrb Classic. Lightweight with its acrylic construction

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    Like the barb Classic but want something fancier? The biOrb Flow offers a step up to the classic with a peninsula style setup. It is made of durable acrylic, making it the lighter than all of the other aquariums on this list. It’s a nice statement piece for a desktop.

    The lights are good enough for beginner aquarium plants, but will require modification if you want to bit more difficult plants. The price point is near the Fluval Spec V. If you want something different, check this one out.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great looking aquarium
    • Therapeutic
    Cons
    • Failure risk
    • Tank dimensions

    Our Criteria

    I searched and reviewed a ton of aquariums at the 5 gallon fish tank range. There are dozens of fish tanks available to purchase online. How did we decide what was best? It came down to the following criteria.

    Tank Layout

    For fish tanks that are only 5 gallons, the layout of the aquarium is going to be very important. Since many of these aquariums are going to be placed on desktops or tables, presentation is very important. One of the best ways to view a desktop aquarium is from 3 sides. This makes the peninsula style the look of choice for a 5 gallon fish tank. I’ll be looking for this style in the review.

    Filtration

    I want a complete aquarium kit. An aquarium kit should come with a filtration system. Ideally, 3 stage filtration system is included with a bay in the filtration unit to place an aquarium heater. The filtration system should have an easy setup, be clean, and easy to maintain.

    Lighting

    I would like to find an aquarium kit with lights that are suitable for low light aquarium plants. Having plants make things more comfortable for our future fish residents, but also more stable as plants can help control our nitrogen cycle. I’m going to look for LED lights and if it is part of the lid, even better as that saves me from evaporation issues.

    If I’m looking at a pico reef tank (a reef tank that is 5 gallons or less), then I want an aquarium with a light strong enough to support simple low light corals like zoas or mushroom corals.

    Price

    I want this 5 gallon tank to be affordable and provide great equipment. The best value on my list will definitely have an appealing price without being too expensive or providing junky goods, so that you can enjoy yourself with your purchase!

    What To Look For

    If you are shopping around outside of this guide, here are a few things to look for when shopping for that 5 gallon tank.

    Filtration

    A good 5 gallon aquarium will have a 3 stage filtration system, preferably in an all in one aquarium. The filtration until should be large enough to place a heater inside of it. I feel these is important as the footprint of a aquarium this size is very limited. Putting a heater no matter what the size will hinder the presentation of these small aquariums. You don’t want an ugly heater sitting around with your tropical fish swimming around.

    Lights

    Ideally, you want the aquarium you are purchasing to include a light, as this can be one of the more expensive pieces of equipment to buy. It is preferable to have a light included that can actually support low light and beginner aquarium plants. Most of these lights will be full spectrum or input enough PAR where these plants can grow.

    Some aquariums will have specialty lights, such as aquarium kits designed for glow fish. Others are simply fish only lights, which have their purposes for people who desire a simple setup. You will have better stability if you can add plants in your 5 gallon tank. I feel it’s best to have this option. The worse you will need to do is tune down the light if it ends up being fish only.

    Design

    The aesthetics of an aquarium this size are huge. These mini aquariums are typically placed on desktops, nightstands, corner tables, or countertops. The way they look accent the look of the room. A standard looking aquarium with a plastic rim and cheap hood isn’t going to do. This is because the way the aquarium is designed is going to have a big impact. In a larger aquarium, the inhabitants and inside of the tank will present will even in a standard looking aquarium.

    You also want to view the aquarium at many angle, where in larger aquariums you will usually view it from the front due to its size.

    Fish Choices

    So you figured out what 5 gallon aquarium you are going to get, now it’s time to figure what fish to put in. There are a surprising amount of fish you can put in a 5 gallon tank. I’ll give you a few options below

    Betta Fish (The preferred choice)

    WYSIWYG Available!
    Betta Fish

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    A betta fish tank is ideal aquarium a this gallon size. A single male betta fish can fit comfortably in this tank. You can enhance his environment by building out a low light planted tank environment and housing shrimp together with them. The only other tank mate you can consider at this size with a Betta would be snails. Note that Betta fish like warm weather and do best with an aquarium heater.

    Other options

    Here are a few other options. If you want to learn more about fish for a 5 gallon tank, check out my related post.

    Setting Up

    Setting up your 5 gallon aquarium is easier than you think. I’m going to walk you through a simple planted tank setup, which I feel is the best way to have success with these tanks. The people at Fluval Aquatics provide a new overview. I’ll provide some commentary to below below.

    Substrate

    For these types of tanks, I prefer not to go with a planted tank substrate. The reason why is because the majority of these plants will not be rooted and the ammonia leaching when setting these up in a small tank can be really deadly. I prefer to use aesthetics sand or basic gravel that works with the plants you are going to. They also work great with shrimp and bottom feeders.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Rocks and/or Driftwood

    Aquarium rocks or driftwood are great for tanks these size. A center piece driftwood works really well for these setups. You can attach live plants to it to provide a natural looking setting while making the aquascaping process very simple for you.

    When it comes to aquarium driftwood, the best one to use is either going to be Manzanita or Tigerwood. Both are low in tannis, quickly water log, and are affordable.

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood

    Editor’s Choice

    Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

    Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

    Live Plants

    For live plants, you will want to stick with low light beginner plants. These plants are hardy, easy to grow, and will not require a CO2 system to thrive. Below are a list of plants that will work well in a 5 gallon tank. Most of them can be attached to driftwood, feed off the aquarium water column, and exhibit plant growth in low light environments.

    FAQS

    How many fish can I have in this tank?

    You can have 2-5 fish in a 5 gallon aquarium depending on the type of fish that you plan on housing. Some fish like Betta fish are better alone, while others like Zebra danios do well in groups and are light on the bioload.

    What are the dimensions for this size aquarium?

    A standard 5 gallon aquarium is 16″ x 8″x 10″ and weights 7 lbs when empty. Many all in one aquariums at this size do not have these standard dimensions, choosing to have unique presentations or peninsula style setups.

    What fish can live without a heater?

    The best fish to place in a 5 gallon aquarium without a heater would be White Cloud Minnows. Endler’s livebearers and Danios are also good alternatives.

    Are bowl tanks bad for fish?

    In general bowl tanks are bad for fish. This is due to a lack of filtration and lack of oxygen input. Most fish bowls are also undersized for fish. You want to work with at least 3 gallons when it comes to housing fish. You can purchase a fish bowl with a filter like the biOrb Classics or supplement oxygen in the tank with easy to care for plants, but in general a fish bowl without a filter tends to be a bad fit for fish.

    Is this size big enough for 2 fish?

    Yes, a 5 gallon tank is big enough for 2 fish if the the fish species is small. Some examples would be White Cloud Minnows, Danios, and small Tetra types.

    Closing Thoughts

    You can create beautiful 5 gallon fish tanks with any of the aquariums on this list. All these tanks are suitable for small fish and will get you going on your fishkeeping journey. I hoped I helped alleviate your buyer’s anxiety with this roundup today. If you have any questions, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation! Thanks for reading!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • 7 Best 75 Gallon Aquariums โ€“ Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    7 Best 75 Gallon Aquariums โ€“ Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    A 75 gallon is where aquarium keeping starts to feel truly impressive โ€” it’s large enough for cichlids, big community fish, or a serious planted display, and it sits at a size where the tank becomes a true centerpiece. I’ve been in the hobby 25 years and have worked with tanks of all sizes, and I can tell you the 75 gallon hits a sweet spot: big enough for impact, still manageable for most people without a dedicated fishroom. The main considerations at this size are stand weight capacity, canister filtration, and whether to go with a standard or rimless build โ€” all of which I cover here.

    What To Look For

    A 75 gallon tank is a significant investment that requires a lot of consideration before purchasing. Several manufacturers have emerged at this tank size. All are not created equal. Before I start our list, let’s look at the criteria for determining the best of the best. For these aquariums I looked at the following:

    • Quality
    • Features and Accessories
    • Brand Name
    • Price

    The Candidates

    Now that we know what the criteria is, it’s time to look at the list. I selected from a variety of manufacturers and several budget levels. Some of these aquariums are specially designed for certain types of setups like reef tanks. There is something for everyone on this list.

    In a hurry? I recommend the Red Sea Reefer 350!

    PictureNameFeaturesLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Red Sea Reefer 350
    Red Sea Reefer 350
    • Reef Tanks
    • Rimless
    • Sump System
    Click For Best Price
    Best Value
    JB Flat Panel
    JB Flat Panel
    • All In One System
    • Rimless
    • Freshwater or Saltwater
    Click For Best Price
    Aqueon 75 Gallon Aquairum Aqueon 75 Gallon Aquairum
    • Rimmed
    • Standard Size
    • Freshwater or Saltwater
    Click For Best Price
    Current USA Serene Current USA Serene
    • Complete Package
    • Rimless
    • Freshwater
    Click For Best PriceBuy On SWA
    Innovative INT 75 Innovative INT 75
    • All In One System
    • Rimless
    Buy On Amazon
    SC Rimless Cube SC Rimless Cube
    • Rimless
    • Cube
    Buy On Amazon
    Clear-For-Life Aquarium Clear-For-Life Aquarium
    • Acrylic
    • All In One System 
    Buy On Amazon

    The Best 75 Aquariums- 7 Best for 2023

    Let’s take a look at each aquarium and see why they made the cut!

    1. Red Sea Reefer 350

    The Red Sea Reefer 350 is the premium 75 gallon aquarium that you can purchase today. The 350 is for liters and the total volume when you include the aquarium sump is actually over 90 gallons. However, this 4 foot fish tank has all the features you will want.

    The Reefer is a Rimless Aquarium that is expertly crafted and made at Red’s Sea’s manufacturing headquarters. Check out how they make their aquariums below.

    Another great feature is the sump and the ATO reservoir design. The reservoir is designed to be placed on top of the sump instead of the side. This give you more room in your cabinet to store equipment and to layout your controllers and modules in an organized fashion.

    The overflow system is a bean animal style, the best overflow drain configuration available today. The system comes with it’s own plumbing kit and gate value so you can control the flow into the overflow box. You end up getting very quiet overflows as a result. You won’t get that annoying gurgling noise that you get with standard reef ready aquariums.

    This is the top choice if you are looking for a high end setup. It’s expensive and designed for marine and reef tanks in mind. You can use it for freshwater tanks, but the black background will clash with many planted tank setups.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Complete Sump System
    • 4 foot long tank
    • Rimless
    Cons
    • Expensive

    2. JBJ Flat Panel

    Best Value
    JBJ Flat Panel

    The JBJ Flat Panel is an excellent all in one rimless tank. Well built with a quality stand. It’s one of the best medium size starter tanks you can purchase!

    Click For Best Price

    I really love the JBJ Flat Panel as a first time fish tank. It is actually 65 gallons not 75 gallons, but I felt it was close enough to add to this list. It is an all-in-one rimless aquarium that comes with a high quality stand.

    The all in one aquarium setup allow for easy filtration and accessory installs like auto top off systems. For marine fish tanks, you can fit a protein skimmer on the back, as long as the skimmer is slim designed.

    The dual overflow system on both ends will ensure you get the surface skimmed properly. The stand is high gloss style, which gives a modern look in a home setting.

    It is still on the pricy side for an aquarium, but I feel the all-in-one configuration is attractive. Having this as a 3 feet tank can be seen as a downfall, but you will also save money on lights and wavemakers as you won’t need as much for a 3 feet versus a 4 foot long tank

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • All In One System
    • Rimless
    • Easy To Setup
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • 3 Feet Long

    3. Aqueon 75 Gallon

    Budget Option
    Aqueon 75 Gallon Aquarium

    Your standard 75 gallon aquarium. 4 foot dimensions and fits most stands available at fish stores

    Click For Best Price

    If you are looking for a budget system, the Aqueon 75 gallon aquarium is a great choice. This aquarium is regularly available at most local chain pet stores and at your local fish store. It is your standard rimmed aquarium. While it may not have the sleek look like a rimless aquarium, it doesn’t have the price tag of one.

    These tanks are very versatile, as you can convert them into a reef ready or sump system but drilling the back. The 4 foot dimensions give you the length for housing larger fish. Overall, it’s the best budget fish tank you can purchase at this size.

    Pros And Cons

    Pros
    • Cheap
    • Standard Dimensions
    • Readily Available
    Cons
    • Rimmed

    4. Serene 65 Rimless

    Current USA Serene 65

    Current’s Serene line offers a unique opportunity for Freshwater Aquarists. Comes with a filter, stand, light. You can even pick an aquascaping package!

    Click For Best Price Buy On SWA

    Current USA’s Serene line is a new player on the market, and it is a concept I’m really loving. Current’s line focuses on all-in-one freshwater and tropical fish setups with quality equipment to get you started on the right foot.

    This systems comes fully equipped with a 48″ Rimless aquarium and a Reclaimed wood laminate cabinet. An OASE canister filter is provided, which is our top reviewed canister filter. You get Current’s Serene’s lighting system to start you if with low to medium light plants.

    This is also the only aquarium on the light that provides a frosted background, which is the background you want when you are created a freshwater aquascaping. Did I mention the background is also lit? You get a showstopping lit background and all the key pieces to get you going. This is the best value for a high end freshwater system you can find.

    What’s the downfall here? The aquarium is on the expensive side, on par with the Red Seas and Waterboxes of the world. However, both those systems are designed for saltwater reef tanks. This is designed for freshwater setups. You also get a nice discount using my promo code :). Give them a shot. You won’t be disappointed!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Rimless
    • Complete Equipment
    • Frosted Background
    Cons
    • Expensive

    5. Innovative INT 75

    Innovative INT 75

    An all in one 75 gallon rimless aquarium with an aluminum frame stand. Built to last. Overflow box is internal, but leaves a clean footprint in the aquarium.

    Click For Best Price

    The innovative 75 INT takes the traditional reef ready systems and puts in a clean bean animal style overflow system. Because the plumbing goes into the bottom of the tank, you can place the aquarium closer to the wall then if it had an external overflow system.

    The cabinet construction is the best of the list here. Able to hold over 750 lbs, this is a well engineer cabinet that will last for many years. This rimless aquariums look clean in your living room, family room, or basement. You can also purchase the Innovative accessories like rim nets as all their products are designed to work with their tanks.

    I wish this was a 4 foot aquarium versus a 3 foot. Lot of fish tanks you will find online will usually cap at 3 feet due to the shipping costs. Keep this in mind if you are looking for a 4 foot long tank.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Rimless
    • All In One System
    Cons
    • Expensive

    6. SC Rimless Cube

    SC Rimless Cube

    This rimless cube tank by SC Aquarium has great dimensions for scaping. Comes with sump piping for a full reef ready tank or a high end freshwater aquarium

    Buy On Amazon

    I’m a big fan of SC Aquariums when it comes to budget reefs where you still don’t want to compromise. SC provides this excellent 3 foot long cube aquarium that measures 32 x 24 x 24 inches. These are great dimensions if you are looking for a cube aquarium at the 75 gallon tank size. It’s compact, yet large and spacious enough to house larger fish and corals.

    SC Aquariums function off a durso style overflow. It’s a old school overflow, but that’s also the reason why you get a cheaper price. If you are looking for reef ready rimless cube, check out this tank. They offer a 4 foot long tank, but it is a 120 gallon not a 75 gallon. The dimensions of the tank are amazing though.

    7. Clear For Life 75R

    Made In The USA
    Clear-For-Life Acrylic Aquairum

    This acrylic aquarium has your standard 75 gallon dimensions with a built in filtration system. Made in the USA.

    Buy On Amazon

    Acrylic tanks have their place when it comes to a large tank beyond 70 gallons. This clear for life aquarium is a standard 4 foot long fish tank with a blue background. The tank has a built in filtration unit that runs off an old school wet/dry filtration system.

    I used to see these aquariums a long when I first started owning tanks in the late 90s. They are for the most part unchanged from their original designs. The acrylic construction makes them very light and clear to view.

    These days with low iron tanks, the advantages of acrylic are less pronounced as before. The selling point here is the built in filtration at this size. With a blue background, it is a better fish only saltwater or freshwater system.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • All In One System
    • Acrylic
    Cons
    • Limited Options

    75-Gallon Stocking Ideas

    Freshwater Aquascape

    An Aquascape aquarium at this size is considered competition size. 4 foot long tanks are where many competition tanks are designed from. They can be complete show stoppers and the size is going to be one of the most stable aquascapes you can run.

    This will be one of the most expensive types of aquariums to run, and also one of the most impressive aquariums that your guests will see

    Fancy Goldfish

    Goldfish are large fish that require a lot of space. A 75 gallon fish tank is a great size to house multiple fancy goldfish. They are simple to run and the goldfish are forgiving. They also do not require an aquarium heater.

    While they generate a lot of waste, you can support their bioload by investing in higher end equipment. This will be one of the cheaper fish tanks to setup.

    African Cichlid

    African cichlids are typically need at least a 55 gallon aquarium to build a community tank around. A 75 gallon aquarium provides additional space for territory and bioload. You start getting aquariums with all in one systems, which work great for African cichlids.

    African Cichlids also look great in dark backgrounds. Some of the premium level offerings have black backgrounds. Black doesn’t work well with most freshwater setups, but look great with the colors of African cichlids

    Discus or Angelfish

    Most Discus Fish hobbyist prefer a 75 gallon aquarium over a 55 gallon fish tank for the stability, dimensions. You can build an amazing tank for Discus. You can house 5 to 6 fish with this size and have enough stability with great equipment to not be a slave to water changes.

    An angelfish tank makes for a great setup. You can place about 6-10 in a 75 gallon fish tank if you can manage the aggression

    Saltwater Reef

    A 75 gallon reef tank is considered the best size for a first time reef tank. It has the second best dimensions for a 4 foot long tank and enough size to be stable. With a sump setup, you can keep all the advanced equipment to house any coral and most fish. There are only a few large marine species that won’t do well in a 4 foot long tank.

    75-Gallon Setup (Buying Guide)

    Filtration

    Depending on what you are planning to keep, your filtration needs will change for a 75 gallon tank. For a freshwater tank, you should consider at least a canister filter. Equipment gets very noticeable and loud at this size. Using canister filters over other filtration types will hide most of your equipment and keep the aquarium quiet.

    For a saltwater tank. You should either use an aquarium with an all-in-one setup like the JBJ or an aquarium sump. Both will give you access to had high quality equipment like protein skimmers and auto top off systems.

    Heater

    Unless you are going to run coldwater tanks like a goldfish aquarium, you will need to invest in an aquarium heater. For a 75 gallon fish tank, you will want to have at least 225 watts of heater equipment to keep your water warm.

    My recommendation would be to get two heaters and an aquarium heater controller to prevent heater failure and a tank crash. Eheims and Cobalt heaters get my nod.

    Protects Against Heater Failure!
    Inkbird Heater Controller

    Protect your investment with this heater controller. An excellent choice for small tanks. WiFi models now available!

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    Lighting Systems

    Lighting for an aquarium is going to depend on what you decide to setup. For freshwater, I prefer to use the Current USA Serene lights. They have lights for both planted tanks and fish only systems.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    For reef tanks, the 4 foot dimensions of a 75 gallon reef tank makes it easier to get proper coverage. This is because most light fixtures are designed to work in 24 x 24 space. All you need to do is get two lights of most LED lighting fixtures you will find on the market. For brands, I would recommend Current USA if you are looking for a value option or Neptune/EcoTech if you are looking for top quality.

    Stands

    If you do not purchase an aquarium that comes with a stand, you can always purchase one of those standard fish tank stands you can find at a fish store. 75 gallons is usual the max size where you will find readily available stands for sale. The link below will take you the one you can find online. You can find others if you go to a local store.

    Made In The USA
    75 Gallon Stand

    This standard aquarium stand will do the job with most freshwater setups. Not recommended for saltwater tanks.

    Buy On Amazon

    Tank lid or hood

    The fish get larger and more expensive when you start getting into 4 foot long tanks. Some of these fish are prone to jumping. Protect your investment by purchasing a mesh screen or a glass lid. I prefer mesh screens to have better gas exchange. Keep in mind that you will have more evaporation if do not have a lid or mesh screen on your aquarium.

    Great For Rimless Tanks
    DIY Mesh Screen

    This mesh screen kit allows you to create your own custom mesh screen. Protect your fish from jumping with this screen. Does not affect your lighting and spread.

    Buy On Amazon

    FAQS

    How Much Does This Size Tank Weigh?

    Standard 75 gallon glass aquariums (48 x 18 x 24 inches) will weigh around 140 pounds. When filled with water, the aquarium can weight at least 850 pounds. You will want to factor in a sump, decor, and equipment if go for more advanced setups

    How long is this size aquarium?

    A standard 75 gallon aquarium is 4 feet long in length. There are some variants that are 3 feet long like cubes and reef ready setups.

    How many fish can you put in this size tank?

    Depending on the fish you want to house, you can generally house around 25-30 fish in a freshwater fish aquarium. You can use AdAdvisor for guidelines on freshwater tank stocking.

    For a saltwater tank, the number will be a lot less depending on the size and aggression of the fish. Generally 6-8 fish is the limit for a 75 gallon saltwater tank assuming the fish are under 5 inches in length

    Is this size tank big enough?

    A 75 gallon tank is going to be big enough for most fish. However, some larger fish like predators or large saltwater angelfish will still need a larger tank to thrive.

    How much does this size acrylic aquarium weigh?

    A 75 gallon acrylic aquarium weighs 65 pound when empty. This is 75 pounds lighter than a gallon aquarium, which weighs 140 pounds when empty.

    Closing Thoughts

    If youโ€™re looking for a large aquarium to buy, we hope this article was helpful. We want to know what your thoughts are about all of these options or if there is anything else that should be added! Have any favorites? Let us know in the comments below and feel free to start a conversation with other readers who may have different opinions on which 75 gallon tanks deserve more attention.


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Reef Triggerfish – 8 Best For Aquariums (And 2 to Avoid!)

    Reef Triggerfish – 8 Best For Aquariums (And 2 to Avoid!)

    Looking for a Triggerfish for your saltwater aquarium? Reef Triggerfish are some of the most entertaining and rewarding fish to own. I’ve personally had a great experience with a blue throat triggerfish in a mixed reef tank. Next to a scribbled rabbitfish that I had, it was my favorite fish I’ve ever owned.

    I want to share this experience with you as I feel these are special fish, when you can house them in the right environment. I’ll walk you through the 8 best reef triggerfish for aquariums, most that will work in reef tanks and 2 to avoid. So let’s get started!

    Introduction To Triggerfish

    Triggerfish are some of the most interesting fish in the marine aquarium hobby due to their decorated appearances and incredibly bold personalities. Though these fish are full of character and can have beautiful colors, many triggerfish are not reef-safe, which prevents a lot of aquarists from attempting to keep them.

    What Are They?

    What Is A Triggerfish

    Triggerfish belong to the Balistidae family which only contains about 40 different species of triggerfish, already limiting the short supply of these fish that are available in the aquarium hobby.

    Like many other marine fishes, most reef triggerfish originate from the lush coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Unlike other species, most triggerfish do not cohabitate with other reef-inhabitants and usually depend on invertebrates and corals for food rather than shelter.

    These reef triggerfish are mean, hungry, fast, and strong. Hobbyists typically only keep them in predatory setups or species-only displays where there is no risk to other fish or reef invertebrates. Over the years, though, aquarists have experimented with keeping triggerfish in the reef setting to some surprising success.

    Before we get into the best reef safe triggerfish for the aquarium, we need to first understand what makes the better majority of these fish not safe for the reef.

    Behavior

    Most species of reef triggerfish grow to a large size. This, in addition to their muscular beaked mouths and strong bodies, makes them a formidable predator for their natural prey of various invertebrates.

    Interestingly, these fish are named after one of the behaviors. Though a predator, triggerfish can easily scare. When this happens, they take refuge in the rocks and use their first and second dorsal spines as a way to secure themselves. At this point, they can only be removed if that large dorsal spine is forcibly relaxed or the threat diminishes. This action resembles the pulling of a gun trigger, giving them their name.

    This behavior is also observed while the fish is resting. Attempting to remove the triggerfish from its position during this time can cause injury to the fish. Because of this, transferring a triggerfish from one tank to another can take a lot of time and patience. Hobbyists usually end up having to transfer some rock along with the fish as well.

    Do They Bite?

    Triggerfish Teeth

    With such an intimidating mouth full of teeth, how much damage can a triggerfish’s teeth actually do?

    Yes, triggerfish can and will bite, even when unprovoked. Many scuba divers have the stories and scars of being chased and bitten by triggerfish on the reef, sometimes resulting in serious injury.

    In the reef aquarium, the chances of being attacked are certainly less but never completely gone. Triggerfish will greedily splash, spit, and chomp at the surface of the water during feeding times, making the difference between a finger and the food almost indistinguishable; this behavior is known as hydraulic jetting and is usually used for uncovering and overturning prey. For these reasons, it is recommended to keep all hands out of the tank and to use tongs when feeding.

    More importantly, hobbyists need to be aware of triggerfish biting at aquarium heaters and other equipment in the tank, including electrical cords. If these fish can bite through fingers, they can certainly bite through plastic!

    To prevent this, it’s strongly recommended to keep as much equipment as possible in a sump or other external filtration. If this is not possible, equipment will need to be safeguarded with egg crate or other hard plastic. A titanium heater will also be able to withstand the powerful jaws of your fish!

    Acrylic vs Glass Reef Aquariums

    Something you need to think about before you even consider getting a reef triggerfish is the material that your aquarium is made from.

    Many larger aquariums are made from acrylic because it tends to be a stronger material than glass. Acrylic also gives a noticeably sharper and clearer look into the tank, allowing you to fully appreciate the colors of your fish and corals.

    However, acrylic scratches very easily. If you happen to get a triggerfish that likes biting the glass or begging for food at the surface, there is a small chance that it could end up scratching the acrylic. This isn’t a huge concern for most hobbyists, but the possibility is there and should be considered.

    Diet

    Apart from their aggression, triggerfish are extremely hardy and can adapt to most aquarium conditions. They will need to be fed a varied diet of hard, often live, foods that help keep their beaks trimmed.

    Triggerfish need to be fed often. They are highly active and need to restore those nutrients through small feedings throughout the day; most hobbyists aim for at least 5 small portions every day.

    Because of this, many triggerfish keepers set up a snail culture. This allows them to have a near-constant supply of food that also helps keep beaks trimmed. This is even better than buying from the store in terms of expense and having control over the health of the snail population. Other hard-shelled invertebrates, like clams and shrimp, may also be supplemented.

    In addition to these hard foods, triggerfish will accept most frozen foods. As omnivores, they will also accept marine algae snacks.

    Reef-Safe vs Not Reef-Safe Triggerfish

    There are some differences between reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish. Remember, there is always the possibility that a triggerfish that is labeled as reef-safe may not prove to be so in your own aquarium.

    When talking about reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish, there are a few levels of compatibility. In general, most triggerfish will leave corals alone; if you find that a triggerfish has taken a bite of coral, it is more likely that there was an invertebrate on the coral than it is for the fish to intentionally go after the coral for food. However, there are some species that are more likely to intentionally or mistakingly eat corals than others.

    Then, there are reef triggerfish that don’t eat corals or invertebrates. In the wild, these fish often rely on various types of zooplankton, like copepods, as their main source of nutrition. Not only is there a difference between food preferences with reef-safe versus not reef-safe triggers, but there are also behavioral differences.

    Reef-safe species are anatomically different. They have smaller mouths that are higher up on the head to help them capture food in the water column. Because they depend on the water column for food, they are more likely to be in the open ocean than among the rocks.

    Reef-safe species are also less likely to destroy your rockwork. Reef Triggers that rely on invertebrates and corals for food can be very determined. They will be spitting sand and will even pick up and move rocks in order to reach their food. In return, this can injure corals and make a mess in the aquarium.

    In general, reef-safe species are also much less aggressive, though this varies from fish to fish. As always, not every reef-safe triggerfish will be completely safe for a reef aquarium, but there are certainly some species that do better than others.

    Different Types

    Though there are not many species of reef triggerfish, there are actually quite a few different genera:

    • Melichthys
    • Odonus
    • Xanthichthys
    • Rhinecanthus
    • Bailstes
    • Balistoides
    • Pseudobalistes
    • Sufflamen

    From this list, Melichthys, Odonus, and Xanthichthys tend to be considered the most reef-safe, with Xanthichthys being the most confirmed success.

    Each species from these genera will vary in needs, so it is always important to do plenty of research before you go out and buy a triggerfish! Especially since some of these species can be very, very expensive and grow to impressive sizes.

    8 Best For Aquariums

    Here are the top types of triggerfish that are likely to be reef-safe. Remember, this means that they are the species most likely to leave both corals and invertebrates alone. This can always change from fish to fish so don’t take the chance if you’re not willing to lose anything in your tank!

    Due to spawning behavior in the wild, not many of these have been successfully bred in captivity. This can cause some prices to be higher and limit the availability of certain species.

    1. Sargassum (Xanthichthys ringens)

    Sargassum Triggerfish
    • Species Type: Xanthichthys
    • Scientific Name: Xanthichthys ringens
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Origin: Caribbean Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    The Sargassum triggerfish is also commonly known as the red tail triggerfish. These fish are named after the point in their juvenile stage where they hide among floating vessels of Sargassum algae until they are ready to survive open waters. Their second common name comes from their identifiable orangey-red tail at the end of their speckled bluish-grey body.

    Sargassum triggerfish are very common to spot in groups among relatively shallow reef ecosystems throughout the Caribbean. There, they feed on crabs and sea urchins. In the reef, they won’t typically touch corals but might take a bite at any present invertebrates.

    2. Bluethroat (Xanthichthys auromarginatus)

    Blue Throat Triggerfish in Fish Tank
    • Species Type: Xanthichthys
    • Scientific Name: Xanthichthys auromarginatus
    • Size: 9 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    The bluethroat triggerfish, also known as the gilded triggerfish and bluechin triggerfish, is an expensive yet eye-catching aquarium fish. These reef triggerfish have a very obvious blue patch around their throat with a lighter dappled grey body and yellow margins on their fins.

    The bluethroat triggerfish tends to be found on the perimeter of the reef in loose groups. They heavily rely on copepods as a source of food, which will translate into their aquarium diet.

    3. Niger (Odonus niger)

    Niger Triggerfish in Reef Tank
    • Species Type: Odonus
    • Scientific Name: Odonus niger
    • Size: 12 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    The Niger triggerfish, also known as the red-toothed triggerfish, is probably the most commonly available type of reef triggerfish in the aquarium hobby. They have a silky blue body with hints of yellow on their throat; as their second name suggests, they may have maroon-colored teeth.

    Though named after an African country, these fish have a large range throughout the warm waters of the Indo Pacific region. They live in very strong currents where they group together and feed on copepods and sea sponges.

    Hobbyists have had some success keeping this aquarium fish in a reef tank. They tend to be safer to keep when small but can become quite aggressive to invertebrates and other fish as they age.

    4. Crosshatch (Xanthichthys mento)

    Crosshatch Triggerfish in Aquarium
    • Species Type: Xanthichthys
    • Scientific Name: Xanthichthys mento
    • Size: 11 inches
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Available

    The crosshatch triggerfish shares the same secondary common name, red tail trigger, with the Sargassum triggerfish. In comparison, the crosshatch triggerfish is much more expensive and desirable due to its distinctive color pattern of black and yellow; the males have a red tail fin while the females have a yellow one.

    These beautiful reef triggerfish can be found off the coasts of oceanic islands, including Japan, the Hawaiian islands, and Easter Island. There, they hunt copepods in schools.

    This aquarium fish is one of the friendliest species of triggers and will leave most corals and invertebrates alone.

    5. Pinktail (Melichthys vidua)

    Pinktail Triggerfish Swimming in Reef
    • Species Type: Melichthys
    • Scientific Name: Melichthys vidua
    • Size: 14 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    The pinktail triggerfish has a very obvious broom like tail that is pastel pink, though the rest of their greenish-yellow body make them less desirable but more affordable. Unlike the other reef triggerfish on this list, these fish actually prefer marine algae and various detritus as their main diet. However, they will also eat smaller fish and invertebrates if given the opportunity.

    That being said, many hobbyists have kept these fish in a full reef aquarium without too many problems. Of course, there is a chance that they will eat any present invertebrates but chances can be improved with more regular feedings.

    6. Indian (Melichthys niger)

    Indian Triggerfish in Ocean
    • Species Type: Melichthys
    • Scientific Name: Melichthys niger
    • Size: 14 inches
    • Origin: Widespread
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    The Indian triggerfish, also known as the black triggerfish, is another common type of trigger. These fish have a near black body and matching fins, though the bases of the fins are outlined in light blue; in good lighting, these reef triggerfish have dark blue patterning all along their body, but this is difficult to see.

    The exact native range of the Indian triggerfish is unknown. They are believed to be widespread, with increased concentrations around oceanic islands, like Hawaii. These fish mainly feed on various algae and zooplankton. They have an interesting relationship with spinner dolphins where they both congregate together while the fish feed on the dolphin’s feces and vomit.

    These fish aren’t usually kept in reef tank setups, though they seem to be very similar to pinktail triggers in behavior and demeanor.

    7. Picasso (Rhinecanthus aculeatus)

    Picasso Triggerfish in Reef Tank
    • Species Type: Rhinecanthus
    • Scientific Name: Rhinecanthus aculeatus
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not Available

    Picasso triggerfish, also known as Humuhumu triggerfish (the official state fish of Hawaii), are very popular and often become the star of the tank. These fish are light tans and whites with paint splashes of yellow, blue, black, and brown.

    Unfortunately, Picasso triggerfish can be very aggressive towards fish and invertebrates. Though they likely won’t touch any corals in the tank, they will gladly eat larger crabs, sea urchins, and shrimp. Some hobbyists have had luck with keeping them in full reef setups as juveniles, but their aggression often grows with them.

    In their natural shallow reef ecosystems, Picasso triggers are territorial and enjoy the open water.

    8. Clown (Balistoides conspicillum)

    Clown Triggerfish in Reef
    • Species Type: Balistoides
    • Scientific Name: Balistoides conspicillum
    • Size: 20 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 300 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Available

    The clown triggerfish is the fish that everybody wants. This is one of the most colorful and interesting fish to look at in the aquarium hobby, period.

    Many beginner hobbyists would love to get their hands on one of these black and white polka-dotted fish. However, they can grow to extreme sizes and need extreme setups. For most, it’s simply unrealistic to keep a clown triggerfish in the typical saltwater reef tank. Unfortunately, this doesn’t stop many from trying to do so.

    In the wild, clown triggerfish live on their own and are very rare to come across. They feed on a variety of different benthic invertebrates, making them safe for corals but a predator for crabs, shrimp, and other cleanup crew members. This is one of the few triggerfish species that are available as tank bred.

    Species To Avoid

    While reef triggerfish are beautiful, there are a few species that common hobbyists want to avoid. This includes:

    Undulate (Balistapus undulatus).

    Also known as the orangelined triggerfish, this fish is super aggressive. They will definitely eat invertebrates and likely go after other fish in the aquarium as well. Because of this, they should only be kept with bigger reef fishes or ones that are able to defend themselves through poison, venom, or other body armor. They have tough teeth and can damage rocks, acrylic, and fingers. Buyer beware.

    Queen (Balistes vetula).

    These triggerfish need to be treated like nothing less than royalty. Queen triggerfish can grow to an impressive two feet and can become incredibly aggressive to fish and reef invertebrates alike. This makes them almost impossible to keep in the home aquarium, but something to admire on public display or appreciated from diver videos (like the one above by Rumble Viral).

    Where To Buy

    Triggerfish are typically available at local fish stores and several online fish stores. However, you will usually find large or common reef triggerfish when looking to purchase locally. If you are looking for smaller, tank raised, or even the more exotic types like crosshatches, consider purchasing from an online fish store.

    These fish tend to do well when shipped and imported, however, do not purchase from an online retailer unless there is a guarantee on the fish or the fish is a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) fish.

    For retailers, I would consider salwaterfish for budgets, liveaquaria’s driver’s den for middle price, and TSM corals for the most exotic varieties. Triggers can be expensive. If you are going to spend, make sure your retail backs their fish with guarantees or a quarantine process.

    Final Thoughts

    Triggerfish catch the attention of many hobbyists due to their impressive sizes, bright colors, and fearsome sharp teeth. Though most reef triggerfish species are incredibly hardy, not many hobbyists can actually keep them in their home aquariums due to their potential size and behavior.

    Triggerfish are predatory fish. While there are some species that are considered reef-safe, there is always the chance that they take a liking to your reef invertebrates or corals.

    Got any experience in keeping triggers? Leave a comment below.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 11 Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases โ€“ Symptoms & Treatment Guide

    11 Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases โ€“ Symptoms & Treatment Guide

    After 25 years in the saltwater hobby, I’ve seen just about every disease that can hit a reef or fish-only tank โ€” ich, velvet, flukes, and more. I’ve personally gone through the heartbreak of losing fish to diseases I didn’t recognize quickly enough, which is why I now run a strict quarantine tank for every new addition. Knowing what to look for and how to treat it fast can mean the difference between saving your fish and a tank crash. This guide covers the most common saltwater fish diseases I’ve encountered and the treatments that actually work.

    Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases

    These are some of the most common diseases that are seen in saltwater fish.

    1. Ich (Marine White Spot Disease)

    Saltwater Ich
    Ich

    Ich’s version is saltwater tanks is Cryptocaryon irritans vs Ichthyophthirius multifiliis – it’s freshwater version. It is considered a moderately serious parasite that infects fish. Ich is one of those parasites that you can either choose to eliminate entirely or manage.

    For those that decide to manage it, you focus on having a low stress environment for your fish and managing with equipment like UV sterilizers, Ozone, Diatom filters, or an Oxydator.

    Fighting Marine Ich is all about know it’s life cycle. The picture below from Charles Raabe posted on Humblefish’s website is a good illustration of how the cycle works.

    Saltwater Ich Life Cycle

    Symptoms

    • Salt-like white spots on fish usually on the fins or body
    • White spots are spread out and can be counted. Too many to count would indicate a far more serious disease (Velvet)
    • Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

    Treatment

    • Fallow period (fishless) is 76 days
    • Copper like Copper Power
    • Chloroquine Phosphate in quarantine system
    • Hyposalinity in fish only or quarantine systems
    • Manage with equipment like UV Sterilizers

    2. Marine Velvet

    Marine velvet is the most common of what I call the deadly 3. The deadly 3 are 3 of the most serious diseases in the saltwater hobby that have the potential of wiping out all the fish inhabitants of your tank. It is a disease that is not to be taken light, sometimes killing fish before symptoms show.

    This disease requires a 76 day fallow period to eliminate and cannot be managed like Ich. You have to wipe it out completely. This disease is the #1 reason to quarantine your saltwater fish.

    Symptoms

    • Number white spots – so many that you can’t count. Almost dust like
    • Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing
    • Fish sensitive to light
    • Fish swimming to current to breathe
    • Mysterious sudden deaths of inhabitants

    Treatment

    • Copper like Copper Power
    • Chloroquine Phosphate
    • Fallow period – 76 days
    • Disease must be treated in a quarantine tank to fully eliminate

    3. Brooklynella (Clownfish Disease)

    Brooklynella

    Brooklynella is the 2nd most common of the deadly 3 saltwater fish diseases. It typically affects clownfish, which is how it got its name clownfish disease from. Other fish can be inflected, but their physical symptoms will look different as you will see white blotches versus white film.

    This disease has the potential to wipe out all the fish in a saltwater aquarium. Like with velvet, you can only eliminate it by doing a quarantine and doing a fishless period (fallow) for 6 weeks.

    The medication used here are powerful. Formalin is the old school way of bathing and is no longer available in several states. Chloroquine Phosphate is the drug of choice here, but also difficult to obtain.

    Symptoms

    • Powderly white film
    • Almost web-like white film on fish in advanced stages
    • Large white blotches on non-clownfish
    • Sudden deaths with any physical symptoms

    Treatment

    • Formalin bath (if legal in your state) – Ruby Reef Rally can be used as an option.
    • Formalin bath – 45 minutes
    • If Ruby Reef Tally – 90 minutes
    • Freshwater dips can be used if above meds are not available. Bathe for 5 minutes
    • After bath – treat with Metro + Chloroquine Phosphate
    • Seachem Metro for 14 days in aquarium and feed to fish with focus binding if fish is eating
    • Chloroquine Phosphate
    • Fallow period – 6 weeks

    4. Uroema marinum

    Uroema is the scariest and hardest to battle of the deadly 3. This parasite has a direct life cycle, which means it has no encrusted stage like Brook. While this may mean the parasite is easier to eliminate, that is not the case. This disease can live without a host, mainly feeding on detritus to maintain itself when fish aren’t available.

    You simply cannot get rid of this disease once it’s in your aquarium. It is that much of a nightmare. You can manage after you get rid of fish with sympthoms by maintaining a very clean saltwater aquarium and not purchasing chromis fish – the pathogens favorite host.

    This is the only disease of the deadly three where euthanasia is recommended. Once the red sores appears, it’s usually too late to help the fish. Medication used here are strong just like Brook and velvet. Do not take this disease lightly

    Symptoms

    • Red sores on fish
    • Sores appear in a vertical line usually around the center of the fish
    • Sudden death without physical symptoms

    Treatment

    • If no sores are present – Formalin or Rally bath to start
    • If sores are present – Use freshwater dip. Also okay to use if medications are not available
    • Cholorquine Phophate
    • Seachem metro treated food with focus to treat internal infections
    • Euthanasia with clove oil

    5. Flukes

    Flukes are a hidden parasite that you will often come across with large fish like Tangs. While not serious on their own, it is common for these flukes to cause secondary infections (usually bacterial infections) on the infected sites.

    This is one of the few diseases on the list that you can treat for in a display tank using Prazipro or General Cure. You can also use a freshwater dip to provide relief to the fish, as long in this video by Meredith Presley.

    Symptoms

    • Lethargic fish
    • Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

    Treatment

    • 5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
    • Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
    • Hyposalinity for 7 days

    6. Black Ich

    Black Ich

    Black ich is parasitic flat worm that usually affects Tangs (picture source). Like flukes it is a moderately severe disease that can develop secondary infections. It has the same treatment as flukes and can be treated in the display tank

    Symptoms

    • Small black spots on body
    • Spots are raised

    Treatment

    • 5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
    • Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
    • Hyposalinity for 7 days

    7. Bacterial Infections

    Saltwater Bacterial Infections

    Bacterial infections are very serious in the saltwater hobby. There are two types – gram-positive and gram-negative. Gram-negative are more serious and unfortunately the most common with saltwater fish. These infections are typically secondary infections from aliments like Ich or flukes. Wounds will also cause infections.

    Treating a bacterial infection requires antibiotics and a quarantine tank. Because there are so many different types of bacterial infections, multiple medications are used. Board spectrum medications are the best to use to get a handle on the infection.

    Because you cannot differentiate between a gram-positive or gram-negative infection without a scrape and microscope, it’s best to assume all bacterial infections you come across are gram-negative.

    If untreated, a bacterial infection will typically kill a fish. Most gram-negative infections will kill a fish within 1-2 days.

    Symptoms

    • Redness, soreness on body
    • White film or fungus looking growths
    • Cloudy eyes
    • Fin & tail rot

    Treatment

    • 90 minute dip in Ruby Reef Rally (one of the active ingredients is an antiseptic)
    • Antibiotic options
      • API Triple Sulfa
      • Seachem Sulfaplex + Neoplex
      • Spectrogram (only available via American Aquarium)
    • Treat antibiotics for 7-10 days

    8. Head & Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

    HLLE in Tang

    HLLE is a condition that is typically associated with tangs (picture source). There isn’t a definitive answer as to why this condition occurs, but there are several theroies:

    • Poor nutrition
    • Stray voltage
    • Carbon
    • Stress

    Since there this isn’t a disease but more of a condition, this can be treated without medication. Tackle this by addressing all possible causes. Feed your fish quality frozen food and greens like Nori for tangs. Use a ground probing to remove any stray voltage and get any carbon in your filter/sump out of your system.

    HLLE will sometimes heal over time, other times the fish will have some scarring from the condition. It’s all dependent on how quickly you can address the issue.

    Symptoms

    • Discoloration of fish
    • Looks like color is peeling off from fish
    • White or grey fading of color in patches

    Treatment

    • Increase nutrition with quality frozen food and vitamins like Selcon
    • Remove any stray voltage with a grounding probe
    • Remove any carbon from your filter or sump
    • If fish was treated with copper – increase nutrition condition may heal over time

    9. Internal Infections & Parasites

    Internal infections can either be worms, parasites, or bacterial infections. Since it’s difficult to tell what your fish has, it’s best to tackle this ailment with a broad medication. General cure + focus is the big practice here with Metro + Prazipro being another combo (General Cure has both).

    This is a very common issue with imported fish, but also easy to cure if you catch it early. This is a condition that can be treated in a display tank, though best handled in a quarantine tank before the fish is introduced to the display system.

    Symptoms

    • Sunken bullies (like video)
    • White stringy feces
    • Skinny fish that can never gain weight

    Treatment

    • General cure + Focus mixed with food
    • Treat for 10-14 days or until feces is no longer white for several days

    10. Swim Bladder Disease

    Swim bladder disease is an all too common issue with imported deep water fish. Wrasses in particular are the most common fish affected by this aliment due to poor handling by the importer.

    I’ve personally dealt with this issue several times in my reefing journey. I got so frustrated with this from imported fish, I stopped buying wrasses online unless it was a what you see is what you (WYSIWYG) get wrasse.

    You can do the 3 treatments below in the bullet points. Some cases get to the point where you will need to lance the fish to remove the gas bubble. This is an advanced techique that should not be attempted by a beginner.

    If you are going to attempt the lancing method (see video above), try to get an experienced reefing member from a reef club or considering calling your local vet. Some vets have performed the procedure with large ornamental fish or koi.

    Fish will usually die without treatment as they cannot compete for food and will be subject to bullying. I haven’t seen any swim bladder wheelchairs made for saltwater fish versus goldfish (where these devices are more common).

    Symptoms

    • Fish is unable to swim upright
    • Fish unable to swim downwards
    • Gas bubble present in belly

    Treatment

    • Epsom salt – one tablespoon per 5 gallons
    • 30 minute Methylene Blue bath
    • Metro + Neomycin + Focus in food
    • Lancing (See video) do not attempt unless with an experienced reef or have a license vet perform it

    11. Lymphocystis

    Lymphocystis on Clownfish

    Symptoms

    Lymphocystis makes this list as it is confused by ich. The disease fortunately is rarely fatal. However, the bad new is this is a viral infection. The fish will continue to carry the virus for the rest of its life. It can be managed.

    The healthier the fish is, the more likely this virus will stay in remission. Focus on putting your fish in a low stress environment with a great diet. The virus will come and go, but the your fish can live a healthy life carrying it.

    • White color growth on fins and back of fish
    • Starts small, then grows in size

    Treatment

    • There is no known cure
    • Can put virus in remission by providing a low stress environment and high quality diet

    How to prevent many health issues in your fish

    Prevention is the best medication when it comes to disease. There are many things that you can do at home to help prevent many of these issues in your fish. Your favorite petโ€™s health depends on water quality, diet and levels of stress; however there is still more we could do for them! Here’s how:

    1. Quarantine New Fish

    This is your #1 preventative measure against diseases. Many saltwater fish are imported, which means they go through a lot of stress to get to your home. This stress lowers the fish’s immune system and makes them venerable to disease. Some importing practices are also not ideal, leading to several issues after getting the fish.

    You can save yourself a lot of headache and tank crashes by quarantining. If you want to learn more about it, I have a great article on quarantining.

    Not interested in quarantining fish? If so, consider working with an online retailer who specializes in quarantined or pre conditioned fish. My top two choices for these would be Live Aquaria’s Drivers Den or TSM Corals. Go with TSM Corals if you can fish the fish you want there – they have the best practices in the industry.

    2. Provide A Quality Diet

    To keep your fish healthy, it is important that they have a proper diet. A well balanced and species appropriate food will not only make them full but also less likely to fight with other individuals in the tank over meals! Top quality frozen food is the best food you can purchase for saltwater fish. You can also do cultivated live food like black worms, but I’m assuming many readers here don’t want to go that route.

    For frozen food, there are two brands I highly recommend. LRS and Rod’s Food are the two best frozen food makers on the market. Both are difficult to find online, but you can find them at specialty fish stores.

    3. Provide Pristine Water (Avoid Poor Water Quality)

    Part of establishing a low stress environment for fish is providing quality water. For saltwater tanks, an aquarium sump is the best filter you can purchase. Use a sump to your advantage by installing quality equipment like protein skimmers too keep your tank filtered and consider getting an auto top-off unit to keep your salinity stable.

    Saltwater tanks are different than freshwater tanks in that some may not need a traditional water changing schedule. Test your water quality with quality test kits and only change water to maintain your parameters. If you have a reef tank, consider investing in a dosing pump to keep your calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels up

    4. Reduce Stress

    There are a few ways to reduce stress. I explained water as one. The other would be shelther and tankmates.

    For shelter, you can provide your fish with lots of rocks. A large amount of live rock and/or dry rock provides plenty of spaces for fish to get shelter in. For most reef tank setups, shelter will usually not be an issue.

    Tank mates are the next. You want compatible tank mates. Too many territorial disputes and bullying from aggressive fish will lead to stress, injuries, and disease. Add your most passive fish first and your most aggressive last.

    5. Purchase Captive Bred Fish

    Captive bred fish are generally healthier and have a better time adjusting to a home aquarium environment. You can avoid a few of the aliments on this list like Swim bladder disease from purchasing tank bred fish. You will still come across Marine Velvet and other serious diseases, but you will lower your risk in getting outbreaks with healthier fish who are used to living in a captive environment.

    Creating A Medicine Cabinet

    Anyone who has multiple saltwater fish and tanks eventually deals with sick fish. Whether you quarantine or not, itโ€™s a good idea to keep medication on hand for emergencies! Here are some common medications that can help – I’ve added them together in one table so they’re easy to read. Most are available online or at your local fish store. Purchase them now before you are in a bind. Many medications on this list have long shelf lives.

    TypeMedications
    Parasitic (External)Copper Power, Prazipro, Ruby Reef Rally, Chloroquine Phosphate
    Parasitic (Internal)General Cure, Seachem Metroplex, SeaChem Focus (To Bind)
    FungalAPI Fungal Cure
    BacterialAPI Triple Sulfa, Seachem Sulfaplex, Seachem Neoplex

    FAQS

    What illnesses can saltwater fish get?

    The most common diseases saltwater fish can get are ich, marine velvet, internal parasites, and flukes.

    How do you identify a saltwater fish illness?

    Most saltwater fish disease have the same symptoms. Look for symptoms like labored breathing, flashing, scratching, white dots or film, sores, and discoloration.

    There are also deadly disease that may kill a fish before symptoms show. Any sudden unexplained death of a fish should be question as it could be related to a deadly disease like Marine Velvet, Uroema, or Brook.

    What does Ich look like on a marine fish?

    Saltwater ich looks like small white dots on the fish’s body or fins. Ich spots are not numerous. You should be able to count them when observing at the fish. If you cannot count them, this could be marine velvet. If the dots grow in size, this is likely Lymphocystis.

    What does a diseased fish look like?

    A disease fish will show one of the following characteristics: discoloration, white spots, red sores, scratching, flashing, and labored breathing. Physical symptoms are a sign the condition has become serious. Action should be taken ASAP to help the fish.

    What is killing my fish?

    Sudden deaths are worrisome in a saltwater fish tank. Unexplained deaths are likely a result of the 3 deadly marine diseases – Marine Velvet, Brook, or Uroema. If this is a fish that is a quarantine tank that suddently dies, it could also be a result of transplant shock. If your fish dies in quarantine, empty and sterilize and tank. Let the tank dry for 24 hours before attempting to quarantine another fish.

    Further Resources

    It would be unfair for me to talk about saltwater fish diseases without mentioning Dr. Fish himself, Humblefish. His forum is the go to if you are dealing with sick or infected fish in the saltwater tank hobby. Give his forum a visit if you need immediate assistance. The community there is amazing. They can be a lifesaver in a hobby where Vets are hard to find with experience in these aquatic animals.

    Final Thoughts

    Saltwater fish diseases tend to be more serious then with freshwater fish. Because of this, quarantining is the best practice. If you come across a sick fish, take action right away. Use this guide to help identify what you are going against. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below. Thanks for reading!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types: The Complete Guide for Saltwater Aquariums

    15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types: The Complete Guide for Saltwater Aquariums

    Wrasses are one of the largest and most diverse fish families in the ocean โ€” and among the most popular choices for reef aquariums. After running a 125-gallon reef tank and following the saltwater side of this hobby for over 25 years, I’ve developed strong opinions on which wrasses belong in a reef and which don’t. The reef-safe question is genuinely nuanced with wrasses: some species will eat the shrimp and snails you’re trying to keep, others are fine with invertebrates but will actively hunt flatworms and bristle worms. Some need a deep sand bed to sleep in at night. Most are persistent jumpers that require a tight lid. This guide focuses on 15 reef-safe wrasse types I’d personally recommend, with honest context on what “reef safe” actually means for each species.

    Introduction To Wrasses

    Wrasses can be found throughout the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, though most available species come from the coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. For the most part, wrasse fish inhabit coral reef ecosystems, though the exact type of reef will depend on latitude.

    Some of these wrasses are considered completely reef safe, while others might be considered partially reef-safe or not reef-safe at all. For the purposes of this article, we will only be looking at those wrasse species that are completely and partially reef-safe.

    Are All of Them Born Female?

    Most wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites. This means that the majority of these fish are born as females and later have the ability to turn into males in response to environmental conditions or internal changes.

    This ability helps these fish when stresses, like limited mates or resources, impact the ability to reproduce. Because conditions are generally stable in the aquarium, there is usually little need for fish to change sexes.

    Requirements And Temperament

    Fairy Wrasse in Reef Tank

    Since there are so many species of wrasse available in the marine aquarium hobby, setting a generalization for care is not possible. Species, like the pygmy wrasse (Wetmorella nigropinnata), do well in nano tanks under 20 gallons while other larger and more active wrasse need much larger setups.

    There is one general care requirement for these fish though, and that is that they need a decently deep sandbed. This is because most wrasses sleep in the sandbed; they will also use the sandbed to hide when stressed, which causes a lot of mysterious disappearances for hobbyists.

    In addition to sleeping in the sand bed, some wrasses will excrete a mucus cocoon to sleep in. If they are visible in the tank at night, you may notice them perched in between or underneath the rocks in a trance-like state. As soon as the lights turn on, you may see some remnants of the cocoon sloughing off.

    Are They Aggressive?

    In general, wrasses are community fish. Some species are shyer than others, but they aren’t usually known for becoming the bully of the tank. Though some species from the Pseudocheilinus genus, like six-line wrasses, have been known to become especially problematic.

    Of course, this is entirely dependent on the individual personality of the wrasse.

    Are They Hard To Keep?

    Wrasses are active fish that will constantly search for food in and out of the rocks. Some wrasse species have specific dietary needs, like live copepods and various frozen foods. This can make feeding some of the more advanced wrasses more challenging.

    Wrasses can also be difficult to safely acclimate to a new tank, but they are generally hardy once established. These marine fish are notorious for carrying external and internal parasites, like flukes. Because of this, it is strongly recommended to quarantine them for several weeks before adding them to the main display.

    It is also required to have a tight lid on the aquarium as these fish are master escape artists.

    Types

    More likely than not, you will want to add at least one wrasse to your aquarium. The problem is that some wrasse types need certain setups or diets and success will depend on the skill level of the keeper.

    Here are the most common genera of wrasse to find in the aquarium hobby:

    • Anampses
    • Cirrhilabrus
    • Halichoeres
    • Labroides
    • Macropharyngodon
    • Paracheilnus
    • Pseudocheilinus
    • Pseudojuloides
    • Wetmorella

    Not all of these wrasses are entirely reef-safe, though. Some wrasses might leave corals alone but nibble at shrimp and other reef crustaceans instead.

    The Best 15 For Saltwater Tanks

    To help differentiate between the best 15 wrasses for saltwater tanks, we have created categories for fully reef-safe wrasses and partially reef-safe wrasses. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. If you like our channel, be sure to subscribe. We post videos every week.

    Fully reef-safe wrasses can be kept with corals and all invertebrates. Partially reef-safe wrasses can be kept with corals but should be watched when kept with other invertebrates.

    Fully Reef Safe

    For the most part, the wrasse species listed in this group will not pick at corals or invertebrates. However, there is always the chance that your specific fish picks at them in your own aquarium.

    1. Blue Striped Tamarin (Anampses femininus)

    • Species Type: Anampses
    • Scientific Name: Anampses femininus
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 120 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    One of the most expensive and challenging wrasse species, the blue striped tamarin is unmatched. These large fish turn from yellow to royal blue as you move from their head to their tail. All along the body, they have even more electric blue horizontal stripes, earning them their name.

    Blue striped tamarins are collected from very exact locations throughout the Melanesia region of the Pacific Ocean. There, they feed on coral reefs in small groups. In the aquarium, they are usually entirely reef safe.

    2. Flame (Cirrhilabrus jordani)

    • Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
    • Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus jordani
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare

    The flame wrasse, also known as Jordan’s fairy wrasse, is a stunning red and yellow colored fish with extended feathery fins. These fish come from the tropical waters surrounding the Hawaiin islands, feeding on zooplankton and other invertebrates in the water column (Video Source).

    Though their dietary needs are more specific than other wrasses, they are compatible with both corals and invertebrates.

    3. Scott’s Fairy (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)

    • Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
    • Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus scottorum
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    Scott’s fairy wrasse is a whirlwind of vibrant colors. Though the variation of color changes based on where they originated from (most commonly Australia, Tonga, and Fiji), they have a silky green body that transitions into blue and red. The caudal fin is typically red and the dorsal fin may with yellow with a darker margin.

    In the wild, these wrasses are mostly found on the outskirts of the reef which means that your fish might enjoy having some extra swimming space. Luckily, they are completely coral and invertebrate safe.

    4. Red-Headed Solon Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)

    https://youtu.be/_PjHm5fWSQc
    • Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
    • Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus solorensis
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
    • Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    The red-headed solon fairy wrasse is aptly named after its orangey-red head at the tip of its light blue with cream underbelly body. This Indonesian species is sometimes compared to the blueside wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura) due to similarities in appearance, though they are two separate species (Video Source).

    These wrasses are found in slightly deeper waters and will not pick at corals or invertebrates.

    5. Yellow Banded Possum (Wetmorella nigropinnata)

    • Species Type: Wetmorella
    • Scientific Name: Wetmorella nigropinnata
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    On paper, the yellow banded possum wrasse is a perfect species for nano tanks: they are smaller fish and not as active as other larger wrasses. However, they are extremely sensitive to changes in parameters and have a pretty exact diet. These fish feed heavily on live copepods, though most individuals can thrive with a selection of frozen foods.

    This wrasse species is named after the bands at the front of their head and at the base of their tail against their red body. Yellow banded possums are described as cryptic and finicky as they are often hiding in the rocks or cruising for food.

    These wrasses are completely reef-safe and will not eat invertebrates due to their small mouth.

    6. McCosker’s Flasher (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)

    • Species Type: Paracheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Paracheilinus mccoskeri
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Origin: Indo-West Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon

    McCosker’s flasher wrasse is a beautiful fish with an orange and red body and electric blue highlights. These fish are very hardy and active but will stay towards the bottom portions of the aquarium. McCosker’s wrasses are also very likely to take well to other wrasses, especially multiple females, making this species one of the more popular to breed.

    For the most part, these fish will leave both corals and small invertebrates alone. There is always the chance that they’ll eat any worms or snails that they find, though!

    7. Carpenter’s (Paracheilinus carpenteri)

    • Species Type: Paracheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Paracheilinus carpenteri
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    Carpenter’s wrasses are an extremely popular type of wrasse, largely due to their bright red and yellow colors. These fish do even better when kept in group settings, which can add tons of color and movement to the aquarium. It is strongly recommended to add females first and then a single male.

    These wrasses are pretty good citizens of the tank and won’t pick at corals or invertebrates. As always, there is a chance that your individual Carpenter’s wrasse will pick, though.

    8. Filamented Flasher (Paracheilinus filamentosus)

    https://youtu.be/eXEEKLdwSfY
    • Species Type: Paracheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Paracheilinus filamentosus
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    These fish are similar in color to Carpenter’s wrasses but are more uniform red. The filamented flasher wrasse, also known as the whip-fin fairy wrasse, also does well with a group of females but the order of addition is less important. Filamented flasher wrasses rarely pick at corals and invertebrates, so they can be kept in most setups!

    Interestingly, these fish have been known to hybridize with other species in the wild so it is generally recommended to not keep closely related species within the same tank.

    Partially Reef-Safe

    Wrasse species within this group should be expected to pick at smaller invertebrates and possibly even corals. There is the chance that they will behave in your tank, but caution is needed.

    9. Yellow Coris (Halichoeres chrysus)

    Yellow Coris Wrasse - A Great Addition for Pest Control
    • Species Type: Halichoeres
    • Scientific Name: Halichoeres chrysus
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
    • Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare

    The yellow coris wrasse, also known as the golden rainbowfish or canary wrasse, is a very popular fish due to its vibrant, uniform yellow coloration. This yellow wrasse is relatively hardy and prefers to be in communities with other wrasse.

    Yellow coris wrasses will happily eat various worms, coral pests, and snails they find around coral reefs. Though they will keep corals untouched, they cannot differentiate between good and bad smaller invertebrates. This makes them partially reef-safe.

    10. Melanurus (Halichoeres melanurus)

    Melanurus Wrasse in Reef Tank
    • Species Type: Halichoeres
    • Scientific Name: Halichoeres melanurus
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon

    The melanurus wrasse goes by a few names including Hoeven’s wrasse and tail-spot wrasse. These fish have all colors of the rainbow with horizontal blue stripes along their yellow-blue body.

    This wrasse species is found around shallow reefs near Australia, Fiji, and Indonesia. There, they feed on small invertebrates among corals; in the aquarium, they generally leave corals alone but should not be trusted with smaller worms and snails.

    11. Christmas (Halichoeres claudia)

    Christmas Wrasse Up Close
    • Species Type: Halichoeres
    • Scientific Name: Halichoeres claudia
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    These festive fish from Fiji are named after their red and green color variations! Christmas wrasses, also called Claudia’s wrasse, are an easy and colorful wrasse species to add to the reef aquarium. They are also one of the more inexpensive species available.

    However, Christmas wrasses are likely to eat smaller invertebrates like the rest of the Halichoeres species on this list.

    12. Red-Line (Halichoeres biocellatus)

    • Species Type: Halichoeres
    • Scientific Name: Halichoeres biocellatus
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    The red-line wrasse is similar to the Christmas wrasse in color and size. However, these fish have a much darker base green color and burnt orange patterns instead of red; they are also slightly smaller and originate from more western waters around the Philippines and Japan.

    These fish are typically found around the perimeters on the reef, in more open water. This means that they will prefer having some extra swimming area.

    Though the red-line wrasse won’t eat corals, they will definitely pick at invertebrates they find in between the rocks.

    13. Six-Line (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)

    Six Line Wrasse in Reef Tank
    • Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare

    The six-line wrasse is probably one of the most well-known species of wrasse in the aquarium hobby due to its size, activity levels, and attractive appearance.

    For a long time, however, these small fish were categorized as a nano species. Though they might look like they would fit perfectly into a small display, their demanding activity levels leave them needing a large tank with open swimming space and intricate rockwork.

    Six-line wrasses are a bluish-purple color with six horizontal orange stripes that lead into their green tail fin. Though small, these fish are very active and can show aggression towards other wrasses. Because they are so small, there is less of a chance for them to eat any larger invertebrates in your tank, though they do favor copepods and bristleworms.

    14. Eight-Line (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia)

    Eight Lined Wrasse
    • Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus octotaenia
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Rare

    The eight-line wrasse is different from the six-line wrasse in terms of size and appearance. However, their temperaments can be just as aggressive as their smaller counterparts.

    The eight-line wrasse is slightly less popular due to its paler yellow and pink colorations and larger size. This difference of 2 inches also allows the eight-line wrasse to eat more invertebrates than the six-line, leaving urchins, snails, and bigger worms at risk.

    15. Small Tail Pencil (Pseudojuloides cerasinus)

    Small Tail Wrasse
    • Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
    • Scientific Name: Pseudojuloides cerasinus
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    Small tail pencil wrasses are pretty rare to come by in the aquarium hobby (picture source). They’re a recent addition and not all of their behaviors and personalities are fully understood. Based on how other species within this genus interact with the reef, it is safe to assume that they are only partially reef-safe.

    This wrasse species is named after its narrow body which ends in a proportionally small caudal fin. Otherwise, they have pretty basic red colors with a signature yellow eye. They are only found in the tropical waters around Hawaii but form a complex with other species in the Pseudocheilinus genus.

    Other Types (To Avoid)

    There are a few wrasses for sale that you will see at the local fish store that are very popular, but should be avoided for reefs. Here are a few below:

    1. Bird

    Bird Wrasse in Ocean
    • Species Type: Gomphosus
    • Scientific Name: Gomphosus varius
    • Size: 11 inches
    • Origin: Fiji
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    The bird wrasse is a beautiful and active wrasse fish that unfortunately gets large. It is not reef safe as it will happy consume any inverts it can grab and will also eat any fish that it can fit in its mouth. These are best for fish only for fish only with live rock systems. The bird wrasse is a hardy fish, just not appropriate for a reef tank. They are one of the few wrasses you can successfully pair.

    2. Dragon

    Dragon Wrasse Adult
    • Species Type: Novaculichthys
    • Scientific Name: Novaculichthys taeniourus
    • Size: 12 inches
    • Origin: Fiji
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    A Dragon wrasse is an amazing fish to find at a local fish store. You usually see them in their juvenile form, which has a unique mohawk like fin on its head. They are cute, very active, and full of personality. Unfortunately they grow to foot long and will tear apart any invert in your aquarium. They are also disruptive to corals as they will move them and arrange rocks in the tank.

    They also are one of the less hardy Wrasses you can purchase. Overall, a wrasse you should avoid unless you want to place them in a fish only or fish only with live rock system.

    3. Leopard

    Leopard Wrasse Close Up
    • Species Type: Macropharyngodon
    • Scientific Name: Macropharyngodon meleagris
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Origin: Fiji
    • Tank Size: 90 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Not available

    The Leopard Wrasse is a beautiful fish that actually is reef safe, however, they generally do poorly in captivity. They are notoriously difficult to successfully establish in an aquarium. Many tend to die because they do not accumulate well to fish food. They also tend to get shipped with damaged mouths, which leads to their deaths.

    Leave these Wrasses to the experts or in the ocean.

    Final Thoughts

    There are many, many more wrasse species that could be right for your aquarium but these are just some of the most popular!

    As behavior, tank requirements, and diet can change drastically from wrasse to wrasse, always make sure to research the specific species you plan on getting before bringing it home. Always quarantine your wrasses before adding them to your display since they are likely carrying internal or external parasites!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Worms In Fish Tank โ€“ ID Guide for the 4 Main Types

    Worms In Fish Tank โ€“ ID Guide for the 4 Main Types

    Finding worms in your aquarium is one of those moments that can cause instant panic โ€” but the reality is that not all worms are harmful, and some are actually beneficial. I’ve encountered every major type of aquarium worm over 25 years of fishkeeping, from harmless detritus worms to parasitic camallanus worms that can devastate a fish population if left unchecked. The most important thing is being able to identify what you’re dealing with quickly so you can take the right action. This guide covers the four main types you’re likely to encounter and what each one means for your tank.

    4 Types of Aquarium Worms

    There are many types of pests that can turn up in aquariums and worms are a common culprit. In this article, I’ll be introducing 4 common types of worms found in fish tanks and ponds.

    For each type, I will provide you with some important information about:

    • Identifying the worm type
    • Where they occur in the aquarium
    • What causes them to spread and multiply
    • How to treat them

    So let’s get started!

    1. Detritus

    Detrius Worms in Substrate

    Detritus worms are common but harmless segmented worms. Many aquarists would rather not have any worms in their tanks, but detritus worms are actually a great member of your tank’s clean-up crew. These tiny annelid worms work hard to break down waste which helps keep the tank clean and the water quality high.

    Detritus worms can reproduce rapidly in poorly maintained aquariums with too much waste and uneaten fish food.

    Appearance

    Detritus worms are segmented (annelid) worms, which puts them in the same family as the regular earthworm.

    They are usually tiny white worms, but there are a bunch of different species, and some of the larger types can grow to an inch in length.

    Where They Occur

    Detritus worms usually live in the substrate, but they can also be found hiding in other places like your aquarium filter media. When the population of detritus worms in an aquarium explodes, they can be seen all over the place, even at the surface of the water.

    Causes

    Detritus worms find their way into aquariums with new fish and plants, or in translocated gravel, filter media, or water. They are present in many fish tanks and really don’t do any harm.

    The detritus worm population increases when your water quality gets really bad and there is plenty of food for them in the form of leftover fish foods and waste. To prevent a detritus worms population explosion, make sure you maintain good water quality and dissolved oxygen levels.

    Treatment Options

    The best way to get rid of detritus worms is to give your tank a thorough cleaning and vacuum the gravel. To prevent detritus worms from coming back, keep up with regular aquarium maintenance and avoid overfeeding and overstocking your tank.

    Chemical treatments are unnecessary for controlling detritus worms.

    2. Planaria

    Planaria Worm Under Microscope

    Planaria worms are another common aquarium pest. These worms occur in both fresh and saltwater and can be quite a headache for fish and shrimp keepers.

    These creatures are a little more sinister than the detritus worms because they are actually predators. These worms eat other small animals and they have been known to eat baby shrimps, as well as recently molted or weakened adult shrimps.

    Appearance

    Planaria worms are flatworms of the turbellaria family. These flattened worms have a triangular head shape and two visible eyes, which makes them pretty easy to identify.

    They come in a variety of colors including white, red, and brown. They are usually seen crawling around because they are unable to swim.

    Planaria worms look similar to the harmless rhabdocoela worms which are also a type of flatworm. Rhabdocoela worms are much smaller, however, and feed on bacteria and algae.

    Where They Occur

    Planaria worms are usually found in or on the substrate, or on the aquarium glass. These flatworms are unable to swim, so you won’t find them in the water column.

    Causes

    Planaria worms get into aquariums from water, materials, plants, and animals brought over from other infected aquariums and water sources. Quarantining new fish and sterilizing new plants before introducing them to your tank is always a good idea.

    Treatment Options

    The best way to get rid of, or at least manage the population of planaria worms is to use either traps or poisons. Some fish will also feed on the planaria in your aquarium.

    3. Anchor

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms, or Lernaea, are common parasites that attach to aquarium fish. These unwelcome creatures are large enough to be seen with the naked eye.

    Appearance

    Anchor worms are visible as string-like structures that trail from the bodies of freshwater fish.

    Their name is a little confusing since these creatures are actually crustaceans, and the worm-like part that is visible is, in fact, the female reproductive structure. They also have an anchor-like structure beneath the fish’s skin that keeps them locked in place.

    Where They Occur

    Anchor worms attach themselves to the skin of freshwater fish. They mostly affect cyprinid fish like goldfish and koi, but there are several different types of anchor worms and many different fish species can be affected.

    Causes

    Anchor worms find their way into aquariums when infected fish are introduced. The best way to avoid this is to quarantine your livestock before introduction to your fish tank. Anchor worms can also be introduced on live plants or in any water transferred to your tank.

    Treatment Options

    You can get rid of anchor worms with a chemical treatment, and by manually removing them from your fish.

    While manually removing them with tweezers can be very effective, it is also risky and stressful for your fish. The wounds this can cause can be more harmful than the parasites themselves, especially in smaller, more sensitive fish.

    Chemical treatments for anchor worms include:

    • Potassium permanganate
    • Hikari Cyropro
    • Dimilin
    • Salt

    You can learn more about them and other parasites in my fish diseases post.

    4. Camallanus

    Camallanus Worm

    Camallanus worms (picture source) are another dreaded aquarium pest. These parasites can be common in livebearers but also affect many different fish species. This infection causes bloating and wasting disease, which can eventually kill your fish.

    Appearance

    Camallanus worms can go undetected in small numbers, but when you do spot them, it can be pretty alarming. These fish parasites are visible as thin red worms that protrude from the fish’s anus. They have the ability to retreat back into the host fish’s body, so they are not always visible.

    Where They Occur

    Camallanus worms are internal parasites, which means they live inside your fish.

    Causes

    Camallanus worms get into fish tanks when bringing in new livestock and fish from other infected sources like pet stores or friends’ tanks.

    Treatment Options

    Camallanus worms can be tough to get rid of! If you notice any infected fish, take action right away.

    The best treatment is to use medications like Fenbendazole. Fortunately, these antihelminthic medicines are safe for inverts like shrimps and snails in the correct doses.

    Levamisole is another popular treatment for these parasites.

    Removal & Treatment

    Worm removal begins with identifying the type of worm you have and identifying the cause. Once you have that worked out, you can put together an action plan!

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel that will guide you. We go over more in detail in this blog. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post every week.

    Let’s take a look at how to control worm populations in your aquarium.

    How To Avoid Introducing Them

    Prevention is always better than cure, just as the old saying goes! Even if you already have a worm problem, preventing further introductions in the future is definitely a good idea. Let’s take a look at how to keep unwanted critters out of your tank:

    • Buy your fish from a trusted source
    • Grow tissue culture plants that are pest-free. (Buceplant stocks a great range of these). Avoid adding wild pond plants to your tank
    • Add as little water from outside sources as possible. Natural waterways and other aquariums are especially risky sources
    • Quarantine your fish before adding them to a community tank
    • Dip your plants to kill any hitch-hiking pests

    Maintaining Good Water Quality

    Water quality can be both the cause of worm infestations, as well a factor that makes a bad situation even worse. The main causes of poor water quality are:

    • Leftover food from overfeeding your fish. Leftover fish food increases nutrient levels in the water and can cause algae growth too
    • Excess waste in the aquarium system from too many fish or a lack of maintenance
    • Plant waste in the form of rotting leaves will also reduce water quality
    • Poor filtration

    Poor water quality creates a great environment for worms to multiply, and also weakens your fish’s immune system, making them more susceptible to attack by parasites.

    To stay on top of the water quality in your tank, make sure you run a good quality filter, perform regular partial water changes, and test your water parameters regularly.

    Using A Gravel Vacuum

    Giving your aquarium a thorough cleaning every few weeks is a very important part of aquarium maintenance. Your gravel vacuum is one of the most useful tools you have for keeping the water quality in your tank high and preventing pest problems.

    By vacuuming the substrate, you not only remove the worms and larvae, but also the leftover food and waste that feeds them.

    Using A Trap

    Trapping can be a very effective means of controlling the population of stubborn worms like planaria. You aren’t likely to remove all of them this way, but it is a great option for aquarists who prefer not to use chemical treatments.

    A worm trap is a device that is baited with a food source like shrimp meat or frozen bloodworms. The planaria worms then enter the trap, allowing you to remove them easily.

    Planaria Trap

    This glass tube is specially designed to trap and remove Planaria

    Buy On Amazon

    Avoid leaving large amounts of bait in your tank for extended periods because this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes and reduce water quality.

    Introducing Predatory Fish

    Zebra Loach in Aquarium

    In the case of non-parasitic worms like planaria and detritus worms, bottom feeders like loaches and other predatory fish can definitely be helpful. These worms will be seen as a tasty snack, and even if the fish can’t eradicate them completely, they will still help to keep the population under control.

    Unfortunately, when it comes to parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms, your fish are the victims and will not be able to help themselves.

    Chemical Treatment

    Sometimes, using medications and chemical treatments is the only option, even though many aquarists would prefer not to.

    Dangerous parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms should be eradicated as quickly and efficiently as possible. There are many products available, and if you’re uncertain about treating your own fish, reaching out to a veterinarian is always a safer bet.

    Here’s a short list of commonly used chemical treatments that are available for aquarium water and fish treatment.

    • Fenbendazole
    My Pick
    Absolute Wormer +

    An aquarium safe Fenbendazole treatment. Works against Flukes, Tapeworms, Nematodes, Planaria, Camallanus and more! 

    Buy On Amazon

    Fenbendazole is an active canine dewormer ingredient that is very effective for wiping out planarians in aquariums.

    • Levamisole

    Levamisole is an antihelminthic medication that can be very effective in the control of nematodes like camallanus worms. Unfortunately, this medication can be dangerous to shrimp and some fish such as loaches if overdosed.

    • Dimilin

    Dimilin x is a very useful product for controlling infestations of anchor worms. This is a very powerful treatment, however, so great care is necessary when calculating dosages.

    FAQs

    Are they bad in a fish tank?

    Not all worms in fish tanks are bad. Some, like the detritus worms, are quite harmless. If you find any worms in your fish tank, make sure to identify them as accurately as possible to decide on the best treatment plan.

    Are they harmful to humans?

    No, fish tank worms are not dangerous to humans. There are, however, some (rare) conditions that humans can get from aquariums, so it’s a good idea to wash your hands after tank maintenance, and avoid swallowing aquarium water.

    Where do they come from?

    Fish tank worms find their way into our aquariums with animals, objects, or water from other aquariums or natural water sources. They tend to come in with plants, fish, water, gravel, and aquarium filter media.

    Are planaria harmful to fish?

    Planaria are usually not harmful to healthy fish. They can attack sick or injured fish, however. Planaria worms are harmful to shrimp and snails, so it is best to get rid of these pests as soon as possible.

    Final Thoughts

    If you’re dealing with an aquarium worm problem, rest assured, you’re not alone. Spotting a worm in your tank can be pretty alarming, but there’s no need to panic. Simply start by identifying the creature, and then be sure to follow the necessary steps or consult a veterinarian if necessary.

    Have you had any aquarium worm issues lately? Let me know how you solved the problem below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • 7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks โ€“ Species That Actually Survive

    7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks โ€“ Species That Actually Survive

    Goldfish and plants are notoriously difficult to keep together โ€” goldfish will eat soft-leaved plants, uproot anything loosely planted, and their heavy bioload can overwhelm even fast-growing species. I’ve covered goldfish extensively on my channel, including a deep dive on proper goldfish tank setup, and plant selection is one of the most common questions I get. The good news: there are specific plants that can actually survive and even thrive in a goldfish tank if you choose the right ones and plant them correctly.

    The Challenge

    Keeping aquarium plants in your goldfish tank can be quite challenging. Goldfish are generally very destructive towards most aquatic plants. If you still want to try your luck, you’ll need to consider the following points.

    Temperature

    Goldfish need the water temperature to be in the range of 68 to 74ยฐ Fahrenheit (20-23ยฐC). It might be a bit challenging to find plants that will tolerate this coldwater fish environment. Tropical plants that require heaters may struggle quite a bit and grow very slowly under these conditions.

    If you want to keep aquarium plants in your goldfish tank, it’s best to select plants that will tolerate or even prefer lower water temperatures. The perfect plants for goldfish are those that also grow quite quickly in low temperatures. Goldfish have a tendency to uproot and destroy live plants, so quick recovery is a preferred quality.

    Plant Placement

    It’s very important to think of plant placement. Goldfish have this nasty habit to dig up plants that require substrate. It’s best to avoid any of these heavy root feeders that require the substrate to grow.

    If you want growing plants in your aquarium, try finding those that will thrive while floating or that prefers to root themselves on ornaments like driftwood. There are multiple varieties of aquarium plants that do just that.

    High Nutrient Loads

    Another thing to keep in mind is the high nutrient load of the water. Goldfish are large and extremely messy fish. They produce a lot of fish waste that leads to large amounts of nitrates in the water. Live plants will help to manage the high nutrient load of the water, but some might grow completely out of control.

    The trick is to find the right plants for your goldfish tank. These will be plants that can grow without being rooted in the substrate and that prefer lots of nutrients, but won’t explode and take over. Generally, they will also be fast-growing plants, but you should be able to control them.

    While doing your research, make sure to check the size of the mature plant, how fast it grows, and how well it will absorb nitrates. The more nitrates it can absorb from the aquarium water in a small amount of time, the better.

    They Will Eat Most Plants

    Goldfish are nuisances in a planted aquarium. They are very destructive and will quickly destroy sensitive species of plants, especially those rooted in the substrate. The best plants for goldfish aquariums are those that are hardy or unpalatable to these fish. If you want to see a visual example of a planted goldfish tank, check out an example below by FlameGourami.

    A tough plant will be able to handle some mutilation and still manage to recover where more sensitive plants will simply perish. If you can’t find a plant your goldfish will leave alone, at least choose one that can handle the destruction and grow stronger because of it.

    Many goldfish keepers opt to go for fake aquarium plants. These plants won’t be eaten by the goldfish, but they also don’t benefit the tank except for maybe looking nice. Some even grow terrestrial plants like peace lilies to make up for not having fully aquatic plants in the tank.

    Keep in mind that peace lilies can be poisonous if eaten by your goldfish, so make sure there are other plants or lots of food for your fish to nip at instead.

    Another terrestrial plant you can try is the pothos plant. Pothos plants will improve the water quality in your goldfish tank, but like peace lilies, should never be fully submerged. This plant cannot survive underwater. Allow the root system to dangle in the water while keeping the rest of the plant dry.

    The root system of terrestrial plants offers hiding spots for most fish and is sometimes better at keeping the water parameters stable than most plants that grow submerged are. Keep them in mind as a backup if other aquarium plants just can’t keep up with the amount of waste your fish produce.

    The 7 Best Plants For Goldfish

    Let’s go into detail of the 7 plants I am recommending for goldfish. For visual learners, I have my video below for reference. My blog content has more details so keeping. Make sure to subscribe to my YouTube channel if you like the content.

    1. Java Fern

    Editor’s Choice
    Java Fern

    Editor’s Choice

    Hardy, easy to care for, and requires only basic lighting to grow. This is the perfect aquarium plant for beginners!

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua
    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 13.5 inches (34.3cm)
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Mid to background
    • Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Java fern is a very hardy plant that grows quite easily without any expensive aquarium equipment. They do just fine in low-light environments without any added carbon dioxide. They are also excellent additions to goldfish tanks since these fish won’t bother nipping at the hard, fibrous leaves.

    Java fern plants also don’t appreciate being planted in the substrate. Rather attach them to ornaments or other decorations with some fishing line and watch them thrive. This ability to grow outside the substrate means your java fern won’t get dug up and you can even keep a bare bottom tank if you like.

    2. Java Moss

    • Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 3-10 inches (7.6-25.4cm)
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to midground (Good carpeting plant)
    • Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Low to medium, recommended for increased growth rate

    Java moss is an interesting aquarium plant that doesn’t have roots. Instead, this plant has sticky ends called rhizoids that they use to stick to just about any surface. For this reason, java moss is very versatile and can be used anywhere in a fish tank. It is most often used as a carpeting plant, however.

    Java moss, like java fern and anubias, doesn’t require any special equipment. They do perfectly fine in a tank with low lighting. More light will make the strands more compact, however.

    Goldfish will mess with this plant, but generally, it can outgrow the damage. Some fish keepers say goldfish avoid it, but this isn’t really true. Java moss just recovers very quickly so fish keepers might not notice any damage to the moss.

    3. Anubias

    Best Value
    Anubias Barteri

    Best Value

    A forgiving low light aquarium plant that will not be eaten by most fish

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Anubias species
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 4-15.7 inches (10-40cm) depending on species
    • Lighting: Low to high (40-200PAR) depending on species
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to background depending on species
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Anubias plants are ideal for goldfish tanks since they prefer to grow outside of the substrate. Their root systems are adapted to take nutrients directly from the water column and will rot if buried in the substrate. It’s best to tie them to other ornaments like rocks and driftwood to keep them growing.

    This plant is extremely hardy, but it grows slowly. This makes it vulnerable to algae growth on the leaves. Fortunately, the tough, rubbery leaves aren’t favored by goldfish.

    Anubias is a rhizome plant. This is the structure where the roots and leaves grow from. It’s very important to keep the rhizome exposed to the water column at all times to avoid problems such as rot and eventually death.

    Anubias plants, like java fern and moss, are great for low-tech setups due to their preference for low light conditions. When combined with other plants, make sure they all have the same light requirements. Anubias plants will do well in medium lighting as well but will suffer in high light conditions.

    4. Marimo Moss Ball

    Budget Option
    Marimo Moss Ball

    Budget Option

    A cheap and easy to care for aquarium plant. Thrives in low light and very low maintenance

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 2.3-12 inches (5.8-30.5cm)
    • Lighting: Low to moderate (40-125PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Foreground to midground
    • Growth Rate: Very Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    The marimo moss ball is actually algae and not a true plant. These moss balls are super easy to care for, prefer low light, and are generally left alone by most goldfish. Some goldfish may become curious and try to eat it, however.

    Despite being a very slow grower, this ball of algae will help to keep your goldfish tank clean. It is really good at removing nitrates from the water and harbors a host of beneficial bacteria. Moss balls also help to prevent other less desirable algae from growing. This makes it ideal in tanks that contain slow growers like anubias and java fern.

    Rotate your moss balls to keep them round and just forget about them for a while. Once in a while during a water change, simply rinse the ball to remove any fish waste or other debris that might have gotten stuck in the fibers.

    5. Crinum calamistratum (African Onion Plant)

    Crinum Calamistratumn

    A bulb plant that does well against plant eaters due to its odd shape and hard leaves

    Click For Best Price
    • Scientific Name: Crinum calamistratum
    • Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
    • Size: 36-48 inches (91.4-122 cm)
    • Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Low

    Crinum calamistratum, commonly known as the African onion plant, is a bulb that can grow fully submerged in fresh or brackish water. It is most often used as a background plant in the aquarium hobby. This plant prefers moderate to high light to grow optimally in an aquarium.

    The onion plant works in goldfish tanks since the leaves are hard and oddly shaped which makes it more difficult to damage than most other aquatic plants. If you’re considering new plants for your goldfish tank, this one can definitely be added to the list.

    Keep in mind that Crinum calamistratum aren’t tiny plants. They can take up quite a bit of space in a fish tank. For this reason, avoid planting them in nano aquariums. Some goldfish keepers find that keeping this plant in a pot or vase with root tabs instead of rooted in the substrate is more convenient. Goldfish tend to uproot plants quite frequently if planted in the substrate.

    6. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
    • Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
    • Size: 6-11.8 inches (15-30cm)
    • Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Midground, background, or floating
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Low, recommended for improved growth rate

    Water sprite is a beautiful plant that can be grown either in the middle of your tank, in the back, or left floating. When rooted in the background of your tank, you can leave it to grow out of the water. As floating plants, water sprite will grow faster than the rooted version. This is because of the high light exposure at the top of the tank.

    Water sprite is one of the best aquatic plants for consuming excess nutrients in the water. This makes it one of the best plants for goldfish tanks. With high light exposure, this plant should grow quite rapidly. You might need to use some CO2 if the growth rate isn’t what you want it to be.

    7. Elodea (Anacharis)

    • Scientific Name: Elodea species
    • Skill Level: Beginner
    • Size: 4 – 36 inches (10.2 – 91.4cm) depending on species
    • Lighting: Moderate to very high (100-250PAR)
    • Tank Placement: Background or floating
    • Growth Rate: Very fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Low to high, will improve growth rate

    Elodea is a very popular stem plant in goldfish tanks. There’s no need to try and prevent goldfish from eating it, this fast-growing plant can usually keep up with the demand.

    This plant isn’t just one species, however, the word ‘elodea’ refers to many plants. While choosing plants from this group, you will need to keep in mind the size of your goldfish aquarium. Some Elodea plants can get very big and will take over quickly.

    Elodea can be placed in the background of your tank or you can use them as floating plants. If grown planted, these aquarium plants will grow slower than the floating versions. The reason for this is that more of the plant will be exposed to light while floating.

    Live Plant Alternatives For Tanks

    Aren’t willing to maintain a live plant or two in your goldfish tank? Consider the following decorations instead.

    Fake Plants

    If you can’t find any goldfish plants that can keep up with your ferocious eaters, consider getting a fake plant or two. Fake aquatic foliage is an excellent alternative to living greens. They don’t need any special care like aquarium fertilizers and specialized planted aquarium lights to look good. Most goldfish won’t even know the difference.

    Unfortunately, care must be taken when selecting the fake plant you like. Some fake plant makes are made from plastic that has sharp edges. This can be a problem if you have a clumsy swimmer like a fancy goldfish. It’s best to stick to silk plants where possible. These are made of a soft material that won’t damage your fish’s fins. The product below from Marina is a great silk plant product.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

    Buy On Amazon

    If the plant isn’t real, it also won’t contribute anything besides looks and shelter to the tank. A real plant will at least absorb some nutrients out of the water column. This keeps the water parameters stable for longer. Without the real thing, you will need to do more tank maintenance since goldfish are very messy critters.

    Bare Tanks

    Some goldfish keepers opt to go for a bare-bottom tank. These tanks are easier to clean and maintain. Just because you have a bare tank, however, doesn’t mean you can’t have any live plants.

    If you have other aquarium ornaments in your tank, you can still grow an aquarium plant or two on it. You will have to pick a plant that can live outside the substrate to survive in this goldfish aquarium.

    Fortunately, there are a few goldfish plants that will get the job done. An aquarium plant like anubias for instance prefers to grow on other ornaments instead of in substrate.

    Other Decor Options

    If you don’t like the look of fake greens, consider creating a tank with only ornaments in it. You can choose something like driftwood, stacked rocks, or even ceramic decorations to decorate your tank. A great artifical driftwood to use is offer by Current USA.

    Driftwood comes in all shapes and sizes and can look great used on its own. It can also be used to create some hiding spots for your fish.

    Rocks can be stacked to create caves and tunnels for your fish to swim through. These can serve as endless entertainment and cant be destroyed by your overly curious goldfish.

    Ceramic decorations come in many shapes, colors, designs, and sizes. You will need to decide what you want to do before buying any of these decorations. If you’re creating a tank for kids, you might want to add SpongeBob or another child-themed decoration to the tank to make it more exciting.

    Fake VS Real Plants – What Is Better?

    Goldfish like an aquarium plant or two in their tanks. They use these to hide under and in the case of live plants, they’ll also snack on them. These fish are very curious creatures. You will notice them investigating any new plants added to the tank, no matter if they are fake or real.

    Now you may be wondering if live or fake plants are better for goldfish. Let’s take a look.

    Living Plants

    Living plants are great for goldfish tanks if you choose the correct plants for the job. These plants offer a range of benefits to the tank. Here are the pros and cons of keeping a living plant in a goldfish tank.

    Pros

    • Removes nitrates from the water
    • Provides oxygen to the fish
    • Source of entertainment for goldfish
    • Contribute to a healthy goldfish diet
    • Looks great in the tank
    • Offers a place to hide in
    • Offers a place to lay eggs in

    Cons

    • A plant that requires substrate will be uprooted frequently
    • Goldfish have a nasty habit of eating just about anything green in their tanks
    • A slow-growing plant may be destroyed and killed

    Fake Plants

    Fake plants are a good option for very destructive goldfish. They can also look good if care is taken when choosing the right designs. Here are the pros and cons of using plant imitations in your tank.

    Pros

    • Looks great
    • Goldfish can’t destroy them
    • Offers shelter for your fish
    • Offers a place to lay eggs in

    Cons

    • Offers a great surface for algae to grow on
    • There are no benefits to the tank besides contributing to the aesthetics
    • Fancy goldfish’s fins may get damaged by the sharp plastic edges

    FAQS

    Are real plants good for them?

    Live plants are great for goldfish. These fish love to nibble on anything green, therefore any plants used must be goldfish safe. The best goldfish plants are generally those that grow really fast or aren’t very tasty.

    Do they need plants in their tank?

    No, but live plants will definitely help to improve the water quality in your goldfish aquarium. They will remove some of the nitrates from the water while releasing oxygen for your fish to use. Fake plants look great, but they don’t contribute in any other way to the tank.

    Which plants are beneficial?

    Any live plants will benefit your tank but the best are those that grow very quickly. These include plants such as Java fern, Java moss, Anubias, Onion plant, Elodia, Water sprite, and Cryptocorynes.

    Final Thoughts

    Goldfish keeping isn’t the easiest thing when it comes to keeping your aquarium foliage alive. These fish are voracious eaters that will nibble on just about anything. Fortunately, as you now know, there is a plant or two that can survive them.

    Now all you have to do is select your favorite, buy them and introduce them into your tank. Most importantly, remember to have fun.

    Happy fish keeping!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • 15 Types of Tangs: The Reef Keeper’s Guide to Saltwater Surgeonfish

    15 Types of Tangs: The Reef Keeper’s Guide to Saltwater Surgeonfish

    Tangs โ€” also called surgeonfish โ€” are among the most recognizable saltwater fish in the hobby, and the most effective algae grazers you can have in a reef tank. My 125-gallon reef benefited enormously from having tangs constantly grazing nuisance algae throughout the day. But after 25 years in the saltwater side of this hobby, the most important thing I tell people before they buy a tang: these fish need serious space. Most species require at least 100 gallons, and the iconic blue tang โ€” “Dory” โ€” gets over a foot long and needs even more. They’re also among the more ich-susceptible saltwater species, so quarantine protocol is non-negotiable. This guide covers 15 tang species worth knowing, from more forgiving beginner choices to the demanding species that require experienced reef keepers.

    How Many Species Of Tangs Are There?

    There are many species of tang available in the aquarium hobby but even more exist in the wild, amounting to almost 90 known species. Most of these species originate from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific, where they travel from reef to reef searching for algae to graze on.

    These fish may also be known as surgeonfish due to the scalpel-like spine located at the base of their tails which is capable of inflicting some serious injury to predators. Some tangs are able to excrete venom from this scalpel while others are poisonous to ingest.

    What Is The Rarest Tang?

    As of 2020, one of the rarest tangs available in the aquarium hobby was an Anubis hybrid. This fish is a mixture of purple tang and scopas tang to create a bright yellow-bodied fish with a spectacularly dark overlay of intricate patterning.

    Aside from morphs, some of the most desired species are gem tangs and black tangs.

    Requirements And Temperament

    Tangs aren’t the hardiest of fish, but luckily, they’re not the most delicate either. With so many types of tangs to choose from, each list of requirements will be unique to the species.

    In general, most tang species are more susceptible to disease than other standard aquarium fish. That being said, they can quickly bounce back to full health given the right attention and care. To keep your tang from getting sick, always allow at least a two-week quarantine period (I recommend longer) before adding it to your main display.

    This display should be at least 70 gallons for smaller, less active types of tangs. Otherwise, these are very active fish that need both open swimming space and rockwork to graze on algae. They can be kept at standard saltwater aquarium parameters:

    • pH: 8.0-8.4
    • Alkalinity: 8.0-12.0
    • Salinity: 1.020-1.025
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐ F

    Are They Aggressive?

    More than likely, your tang will be aggressive. They are generally labeled as semi-aggressive saltwater fish, though they definitely have the ability to injure and kill other fish especially those that might be similar in appearance.

    Some types of tangs, like yellow tangs, are particularly known for beating up other fish for no reason at all. To help prevent this from happening in your own aquarium, it’s best to introduce a school of tangs together at once; it should be noted that aggression can and probably will happen in these social groups as the bigger and stronger fish weed out the weakest ones.

    It is also recommended to add tangs as the last addition to the overall stocking list. This will allow other fish to establish a territory that they feel comfortable defending until your tang comes and tries to claim it as its own.

    Though most aggressive tangs can be dealt with, some hobbyists have had to rehome their pet fish because nothing was working to diffuse the behavior. Check out the video above from Reef Nerd for a good overview on dealing with aggression.

    One of the best rules of thumb is to mix different sub-species of Tangs. Because they look different, they tend to not display as much aggression to tangs of the same species. I’ll explain the main species a bit later in the post.

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    In general, yes tangs are easy saltwater fish. As mentioned before, they can be a little difficult to acclimate to the tank but will thrive if conditions are met.

    Apart from possible aggression, one of the challenges to keeping tangs is keeping them fed. In established coral reefs, they will get most of their herbivorous needs from the rockwork. However, this will need to be supplemented with pieces of dried algae, algae flakes, algae wafers, and a high-quality marine flake or pellet.

    This specialized diet can be an additional cost but is necessary for the long-term success of the fish.

    Types – The 4 Different Species

    Tangs are broken down into 4 main species in our hobby. Each has different characteristics. They are:

    • Zebrasoma
    • Ctenchaetus
    • Acanthurus
    • Naso

    Zebrasoma spp.

    The Zebrasoma genus contains one of the most popular species of tang, the yellow tang.

    These fish are categorized by their compact, flattened bodies and sail-like fins. They are some of the most desirable for the home reef system.

    Ctenochaetus spp.

    Ctenochaetus tangs are pretty easy to recognize from Zebrasoma species. These tangs have a more elongated body, with a curved dorsal fin and truncated tail.

    Fish from this genus don’t tend to be as popular as those in Zebrasoma, but this group contains some recognizable faces like kole tangs. Some fish in this genus are also known as bristletooth tangs due to the teeth they use to scrape away algae from rocks.

    Acanthurus spp. & Paracanthurus spp.

    The Acanthurus genus has some of the less popular species while Paracanthurus has only one very popular species, the Dory fish.

    These fish have wide, streamlined bodies for traveling long distances. In general, members of these genera grow to be considerably larger than Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus.

    Naso spp.

    The Naso genus has some interesting fish in terms of color, shape, and body ornaments. These fish also have a very streamlined, yet squashed appearance to them. They can grow to considerable sizes, making most species in this genus unattainable for the average hobbyist.

    15 Different Species (With Pictures)

    In order to understand the many different kinds of tang available in the aquarium hobby, we’ve compiled a list of the most popular species by genus. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. We go over in more detail in the blog post below:

    1. Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens)

    Yellow Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens
    • Size: 8″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The yellow tang is an unmistakenly vibrant yellow. These fish grow to be about 8 inches and need a minimum tank size of 125 gallons with intricate rockwork for grazing on algae and for free swimming room.

    Yellow tangs can be kept in schools in large systems, but they have also been known to be aggressive to their own species as well as to similar-looking species.

    Yellow tangs have a very large native range, primarily throughout the Pacific Ocean though they have been documented off the coast of Florida as well.

    2. Purple (Zebrasoma xanthurum)

    Purple Tang in Aquarium
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurum
    • Size: 10″
    • Origin: Red Sea
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The purple tang has become a very desirable species over the past few years, reflecting on its market price. These western Indian Ocean fish are a beautiful velvety purple-blue with accented yellow tail fin; upon closer observation, some darker horizontal lineations are also apparent across the body.

    Purple tangs can grow to be slightly larger than yellow tangs, reaching a maximum size of about 10 inches. They can usually be safely kept with yellow tangs in a 125 gallon aquarium, though there may be some aggression from time to time.

    3. Gem (Zebrasoma gemmatum)

    Gem Tang
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma gemmatum
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Madagascar
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Gem tangs, also known as spotted tangs, have a black body sparkled with small white dots and a flashy yellow tail, making for a jewel of the tank. Unfortunately, these fish are pretty difficult to come across and their extreme appearance can make them absurdly priced.

    Otherwise, these fish require the same husbandry as both the purple and yellow tangs. Some hobbyists like to keep them in slightly larger tanks as they reach a mature size of 9 inches.

    In the western Indian Ocean, these fish can be very territorial and often lead completely solitary lives.

    4. Sailfin (Zebrasoma desjardini)

    Sailfin Tang in Reef
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma desjardini
    • Size: 16″
    • Origin: Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The sailfin tang is one of the largest tangs available within the Zebrasoma genus, reaching impressive lengths of almost a foot and a half, plus extra height for their tall sail fins. They can be found from the eastern Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

    The sailfin tang is aptly named as the dorsal and anal fins are greatly extended. These fish have simple brown, yellow, and white vertical stripes across their body with yellow fraying across their top and bottom fins.

    Sailfin tangs are generally less aggressive than other tangs on this list, but they can still easily beat up similar-looking fish and other tangs. Because of their mature size, it is best to keep these fish in aquariums over 180 gallons.

    5. Scopas (Zebrasoma scopas)

    Scopas Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma scopas
    • Size: 12″
    • Origin: Indo Pacific
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Scopas tangs are relatively plain in color with a half-light brown and dark black body, but upon closer inspection, have small iridescent spots all along their sides. These colors will change from their juvenile stage to adulthood, and can even darken or lighten due to stress or disease.

    Though not as colorful, scopas tangs have nearly the same personality as yellow tangs. They can get significantly larger and max out at one foot, though this is uncommon in the aquarium hobby. Because of their adult size, potential aggression, activity levels, and herbivorous diet, this tang species does best in a 125 gallon or more aquarium.

    They can regularly be seen in groups of 20 or more in the wild from the east coast of Africa to the western portions of the Indo-Pacific.

    6. Black (Zebrasoma rostratum)

    Black Tang in Reef
    • Species Type – Zebrasoma
    • Scientific Name: Zebrasoma rostratum
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Even more devoid of color, the black tang makes a statement in its simplicity. These fish are silky black, with a sometimes lighter brown face; the scalpel at the base of the tail becomes extremely visible (as well as some unlucky external parasites, like ich). They are sometimes referred to as longnose surgeonfish due to their extended beak.

    Surprisingly, black tangs are naturally occurring and originate from the eastern central Pacific Ocean, near the Marquesas Islands and Tuamoto Islands.

    Black tangs can vary in aggression. It is best to give these 9-inch fish at least 180 gallons and it is even better if they’re the only tang in the tank and added last.

    7. Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus)

    Kole Tang
    • Species Type – Ctenochaetus
    • Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus strigosus
    • Size: 7″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The kole tang is an attractive fish with several different common names including kole yellow eye tang, spotted surgeonfish, and bristletoothed tang. These fish have a brilliant yellow ring around their eyes and delicate stripes down their brown body. At full size, they can grow to be 7 inches.

    Kole tangs are also named after their incredible ability to scrape away large amounts of algae from hard surfaces with their specialized teeth. In their native waters, these fish have been observed cleaning sea turtle shells throughout the eastern Central Pacific, even going as far as setting up stations for algae-covered visitors. In general, they are a solitary species.

    These are one of the less demanding species of tang in regards to size, though they can still be aggressive to similar species. At least 70 gallons is recommended with a heavy herbivore diet.

    8. Tomini (Ctenochaetus tominiensis)

    Tomini Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Ctenochaetus
    • Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus tominiensis
    • Size: 6″
    • Origin: Pacific Ocean
    • Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Tomini tangs are probably one of the least tang-looking fish on this list. They have incredibly slender brown bodies with yellow-tipped fins and a white tail fin, giving the appearance that they’re another unrelated species.

    These fish are a small species of tang, growing to about 6 inches. They are native to the western central Pacific Ocean. While small, they are still advantageous herbivores capable of scraping algae off of most hard surfaces; they usually occur by themselves or in very small groups.

    Due to their activity in the aquarium and green diet, they need a minimum tank size of at least 70 gallons.

    9. Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus)

    Blue Tang
    • Species Type – Paracanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
    • Size: 12″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: Yes

    The Hippo Tang goes by many names, including blue tang, hepatus tang, regal tang, and most of all, the Dory fish. These Indo-Pacific schooling fish are a brilliant blue with yellow pectoral fins and tail fin. For now, they are the only described species within this genus.

    Blue tangs can grow to be a foot long and need 180 gallons at full size, though many hobbyists have successfully kept them in 125 gallons and up. Sadly, their fame has led to many poor conditions within the aquarium hobby. These fish are relatively hardy once established, but they can very easily succumb to ich and other illnesses when first introduced into the aquarium.

    The biggest problem is that blue tangs are sold when they are only a couple of inches long, making it seem like they can fit into very small aquariums. Though they’re not the most affordable fish, many inexperienced hobbyists take on the challenge of raising a small blue tang. Within a year, these fish experience exponential growth and quickly become cramped on space.

    At this point, they may injure themselves due to stress or they’re returned back to the aquarium store.

    10. Powder Blue (Acanthurus leucosternon)

    Powder Blue Tang In Aquarium
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus leucosternon
    • Size: 9″
    • Origin: Indian Ocean
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The powder blue tang is a personal favorite. These fish are a delicate blue with black masking, yellow dorsal fin, and other whitish-blue fins. They can grow to be 9 inches long and require a 125 gallon aquarium.

    Powder blue tangs are native to the Indian Ocean. There, they are usually found alone or in very large feeding groups; in the aquarium, they are usually best as the only powder species in the aquarium, excluding powder brown tangs as well.

    11. Powder Brown (Acanthurus japonicus)

    Powder Brown Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus japonicus
    • Size: 8″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The powder brown tang is very similar to the powder blue tang in appearance and behavior. These fish grow slightly smaller, reaching about 8 inches, but still need the full 125 gallons for openly swimming and grazing.

    These fish are simple, yet complex in appearance. They have a mainly light brown body outlined in yellow, with margined dark fins and a bright tail fin. The dorsal fin has a streak of orange, contrasting with the rest of the body.

    Powder brown tangs originate from the Indo-West Pacific Ocean around the Philippines and Ryukyu Islands. They are more often found in groups than powder blue tangs but still do best as the only powder tang in the tank.

    12. Clown (Acanthurus lineatus)

    Clown Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus lineatus
    • Size: 15″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The clown tang is another one of the least-looking tang species on this list, but undoubtedly one of the most colorful. As their name suggests, these fish have alternating yellow, black, and blue stripes with an untouched white underbelly. Their mature size is about a foot and three inches.

    These fish swim in schools around shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Though their diet is mainly made up of green, they do like to munch on meaty crustaceans every now and then.

    For best results, clown tangs need at least 250 gallons to be kept in captivity.

    13. Sohal (Acanthurus sohal)

    Sohal Tang In Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Acanthurus
    • Scientific Name: Acanthurus sohal
    • Size: 16″
    • Origin: Red Sea
    • Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    The sohal tang is similar to the clown tang, just slightly less colorful. Instead of yellow stripes, these fish stick the basic alternating blacks and whites with some blue highlights. They have an attractive yellow tail fin for a needed pop of color. Sohal tangs grow to be about the same size as clown tangs as well and need a 250 gallon tank.

    Interestingly, sohal tangs have a very limited natural range, occurring mainly in the Red Sea but extending to the Persian Gulf as well. There, they are pretty territorial and aggressive towards each other.

    14. Naso (Naso lituratus)

    Naso Tang in Reef Tank
    • Species Type – Naso
    • Scientific Name: Naso lituratus
    • Size: 18″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    Naso tangs are a favorite in the hobby, though importation is currently limited; trading Hawaiin specimens is highly regulated but others may be collected from farther out in the Indo-Pacific. There, they usually occur in small groups.

    These fish have a very unique appearance with a smooth gradient from grey to yellowish-orange across their body. They can grow to be nearly two feet long, but rarely reach those sizes in captivity. Still, they need 180 gallons to comfortably swim and graze.

    15. Unicorn (Naso brevirostris, Naso unicornis)

    Unicorn Tang in Aquarium
    • Species Type – Naso
    • Scientific Name: Naso brevirostris
    • Size: 24″
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific
    • Tank Size: 360 gallons
    • Available As Tank Bred: No

    There are two main species of unicorn you are likely to come across in the aquarium hobby: the bluespine unicorn tang (Naso unicornis) and the blue/short-nosed unicorn tang (Naso brevirostris). Both these fish have a silvery body and unmistakable horn that grows from the front of their face once they have reached about 6 inches in length.

    The Indo-Pacific bluespine unicorn tang can grow to an impressive 2 feet and are recognizable by the bright blue margin on their fins. Due to their size, they should only be kept in public aquariums or in 300+ gallon home setups.

    The blue/short-nosed unicorn tang originates from the Indo-Pacific and eastern central Pacific, with many individuals coming from Hawaii. This unicorn’s horn is slightly broader than that of the bluespine. These fish can also grow to be 2 feet long and need professional aquarium setups.

    Which Is The Best?

    Tangs are beautiful fish and you’ll probably want to get as many as you can to squeeze into your tank. Unfortunately, that isn’t possible unless you have a very large system. Instead, you will need to settle for one or two at the most.

    But which tang will be right for your reef tank?

    This largely depends on the size of the aquarium and the temperament of the other fish. A larger aquarium will allow for some of the bigger and more active species of tang while a smaller aquarium will greatly limit your choices. The aggression of other fish as well as of the tang that you want to add will also need to be considered.

    It’s also worth mentioning that not all tangs are available or affordable for the common hobbyist. Some of these fish need to be specially ordered and trading bans can suddenly cut off supply.

    Importation

    Though aquaculture has come very far in recent years, a large portion of the fish available in the aquarium hobby is wild-caught. In some cases, these fish originate from utterly unique and delicate ecosystems that need to be preserved. This is the case for some Hawaiin tang species, like yellow tangs and naso tangs.

    Early in 2021, Hawaiiโ€™s Department of Land and Natural Resources stated that harvesting permits could not be renewed and existing ones were no longer valid1. This is surely a valiant effort for preserving natural ecosystems, but unfortunately, has had a detrimental effect on the availability of some Hawaiin species.

    Luckily though, most of these species can be found throughout other regions of the Indo-Pacific and might even be available as aquacultured. Currently, the main three tangs that are commercially tank bred are the Purple, Yellow, and Hippo Tang.

    The Tang Police

    When researching information about tangs, you’re bound to come across a term: the tang police. The tang police have been around since tangs were introduced into the hobby, and rightfully so.

    As mentioned before, many tangs end up in unideal conditions. These are big, active fish that need big, open aquariums to swim and graze. Too often, tangs are sold as juveniles at very small sizes, making it easy to believe that they can comfortably fit into a smaller tank. This simply isn’t true as tangs can grow several inches in just a few months.

    The tang police refer to members of the aquarium hobby, especially those participating in online communities, who insist on informing other hobbyists about proper tang requirements and prevent poor conditions from happening. There is some negativity that surrounds the title as many inexperienced hobbyists don’t believe the necessary requirements are entirely true and try to prove them wrong, but eventually fail.

    If for anything, a lot can be learned from the tang police. After all, we are trying to make our fish the happiest and healthiest that they can possibly be.

    Final Thoughts

    Kole tangs, blue tangs, naso tangs, purple tangs. There are so many tangs to choose from and each individual has their own behavior and specific needs.

    For many years, these fish have been shoved into nano tanks without an established source of algae, leaving the fish to quickly outgrow their surroundings and starve. But given the proper care and compatibility, any tang will quickly become the showpiece of the tank.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 12 Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Tanks โ€“ What Actually Works

    12 Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Tanks โ€“ What Actually Works

    Algae management is something every hobbyist deals with, and after 25 years I’ve learned that the best long-term solution is biological โ€” the right algae eaters working alongside good husbandry. I’ve kept most of the popular algae eating species across freshwater tanks, and there’s a huge difference in how effective different species are for different types of algae. A pleco that destroys green spot algae won’t do much for hair algae, and an otocinclus that thrives in one tank will decline in another. This guide cuts through the generic lists and gives you real insight into which algae eaters actually work and in what situations.

    What Is Algae?

    Algae are types of plants that occur pretty much everywhere on the planet. They are the basis of many ecosystems and really important for all life on earth. Like other plants, algae need light, water, nutrients, and carbon dioxide to survive.

    All aquariums have algae and that isn’t necessarily a bad thing. The truth is, algae don’t look great, and many aquarists would rather not see any in their tanks.

    Fortunately, it is possible to suppress its growth to where it is invisible, or at least not very obvious. Before we move on to the best algae eater for your aquarium, let’s get to know the enemy.

    Know Your Algae-Common types

    If you have a freshwater aquarium, the chances are good that you’ve seen a few different types of algae in your tank. Here you can learn a little about the different types of algae (and bacteria) that grow in freshwater aquariums, and what causes them.

    True Types

    These are your common algaes that you will come across in owning an aquarium. Most are caused by excessive nutrients and can be dealt with with re-balance and algae eaters.

    Green Water

    Green Water in Aquarium

    Green water is caused by tiny phytoplankton that grows in the water column. Unlike other types of algae, this phytoplankton does not need any hard surface to grow on. It isn’t as bad as it looks, and your animals will most likely be just fine in green water for short periods of time.

    To prevent it from blooming, keep your water quality high. To do this, avoid overfeeding and overstocking your tank, and most importantly, make sure your aquarium is not exposed to too much light, especially direct sunlight. An aquarium UV sterilizer is also an effective solution for clearing up your water.

    Green water is also a common issue with overstocked ponds or ponds with too high of a bioload.

    Green Spot – GSA (Choleochaete)

    Green Spot Algae GSA

    This type of algae is usually seen as tiny, round green patches growing on the glass, hardscape, plant leaves, or equipment in your tank. These spots can spread to form large patches, and this type of algae can be tough to remove. Green spot algae can be caused by a lack of CO2 or phosphates in your planted aquarium.

    Green Dust Algae

    Green Dust – GDA

    Unlike the Green spot algae, green dust algae are easy to remove and tend to coat the glass of your aquarium more evenly. This green film is unsightly but pretty harmless and typically lasts for just a few weeks.

    The growth of green dust algae is thought to be triggered by large changes in the tank, like replacing hardscape features or removing plants. Many algae eaters will happily feed on this type of soft algae.

    Green Fuzz (Oedogonium)

    Green fuzz algae are one of the types that are often referred to as filamentous algae. It tends to develop in tanks with a nutrient imbalance. This could be the result of too many nutrients in a fish-only tank or not enough nutrients in a planted tank.

    Green Beard – GBA (Green Brush)

    Green Brush Algae

    Green beard algae is a common type that can be found in both planted and fish-only tanks (picture source). To be honest, this type of algae doesn’t look all that bad, but you’ll want to prevent it anyway.

    Like most algae issues, the root cause is generally a poor balance of nutrients and light.

    Black Brush – BBA (Audouinella sp.) AKA Black Beard

    This is the type of algae that many aquarists dread (video source). The reason is that it is tough to remove, and very few animals are interested in eating it!

    Siamese algae eaters and Amano shrimps can help remove and prevent this black algae problem. Unless you or your algae eaters catch it early, you’ll probably need to get your hands wet and start scrubbing if you have a lot of it.

    Blanket Weed (Cladophora)

    Cladophora Algae

    Blanket weed looks very similar to green fuzz algae and can cover just about any surface in your aquarium, including live plants. Not many animals will feed on this algae, but invertebrates like Amano and cherry shrimp can be helpful.

    Outbreaks of blanket weed tend to happen in tanks with high nutrient levels.

    Green Thread

    Green thread algae is another form of filamentous algae (picture source) that is common in cycling tanks. In mature aquariums, the development of this algae is the result of imbalances in light, CO2, and nutrients.

    Water Silk (Spirogyra)

    Spirogyra in Aquarium

    This type of filamentous algae (picture source) tends to occur when nutrients and light are out of balance. It can happen in planted tanks where the plant growth is poor and not able to compete with the algae.

    In fish-only tanks, spikes in nutrients or ammonia could potentially cause this problem. This type of algae is better prevented than cured!

    Hair (Rhizoclonium)

    Hair Algae in Aquarium

    Hair algae create long, fine strands that often grow from aquatic plants. They can be removed manually, but luckily, many algae eaters will use them as a food source. Possible causes for the growth of this algae include nutrient imbalances and low water flow.

    Staghorn (Compsopogon sp.)

    This common algae type takes its name from its branches that resemble the antlers of a deer (video source). It is typically found growing on your hardscape or live plants and can be a sign of a nutrient imbalance or lack of carbon dioxide.

    Other Types And Related Issues

    These are other aliments your tank can experience that often times are confused with algae. I’ll break each type below and explain the causes.

    Brown (Diatoms)

    Freshwater Diatoms

    Diatoms are very common in new aquariums. They develop a few weeks into the life of your tank and generally do not stick around for long, usually being outcompeted by other types of algae.

    If you have a mature aquarium and are still having problems with diatoms, you may want to lower the silicates in your water. Fortunately, many algae eaters love this type of brown slime algae.

    Blue-Green – BGA (Cyanobacteria)

    Blue-green algae is actually a form of bacteria that is common in new aquariums (video source). It is usually seen in patches on the substrate, glass, or on plants. When this occurs in mature aquariums, it is usually a sign of poor maintenance and high nutrient levels.

    Surface Scum

    Surface Scum in Aquarium

    This form of biofilm can be caused by either algae or bacteria. The best way to prevent this is to manage nutrient levels in the water, but using a surface skimmer is probably the most effective means in more stubborn tanks. Some aquarium algae eaters will also use this as a food source.

    Cloudy Water

    Cloudy Water in an Aquarium

    Cloudy water is a very common and normal part of the aquarium cycling process. In a newly set up tank, it tends to come and go all by itself and is nothing to worry about.

    In mature tanks, however, this could be a sign of overfeeding and overstocking. A poor filtration system or something like a dead fish spoiling in the water are other possible causes. Performing regular water changes is a good way of preventing this issue.

    Stained Water

    Tannins

    If the water in your aquarium has changed from clear to yellow or brown, it has probably been stained by your hardscape. This usually happens when you add new driftwood to the tank, and tannins in the wood leach out into the water column. You can think of it like a teabag, turning the water dark.

    Boiling your driftwood in water before adding it to your tank will remove these tannins much faster, but if you skipped this step, don’t worry, the wood will stop affecting water quality after a few weeks, and some water changes.

    White Fungus

    This nasty-looking material is pretty harmless and is very common on new driftwood. Some fish and animals will feed on it. Rest assured, white fungus on new driftwood will clear up in a matter of days or weeks.

    This fungus can, however, also form on decomposing material in your tank, like a dead fish or uneaten food. These should always be removed from the tank!

    12 Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Tanks

    Now that you know about the different types of algae, and have a better idea of what causes them, it’s time to meet the animals that will be more than happy to feast on the algae in your aquarium. For each algae eater, I’ll be including some vital information like:

    • The type of algae they eat
    • Their scientific name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Whether they’re safe for planted tanks

    So let’s get started and find the right algae eater for your tank! You can check out the video from our YouTube channel below and also see more details in the blog post below! If you like our content, be sure to subscribe!

    1. Amano Shrimp

    • Target Algae: Varied, Hair algae, string algae, brush algae
    • Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallon
    • Origin: Japan
    • Temperature: 65-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    These awesome algae-eating shrimp get their name from the legendary Takashi Amano. Amano shrimp are one of the best algae eaters available and have even been reported to eat the dreaded black brush algae.

    Amano shrimps are peaceful creatures and are a great option for tanks too small for algae-eating fish. They may not be the most colorful crustaceans, but these interesting invertebrates are very hard workers!

    2. Otocinclus Catfish

    Octocinclus Fish
    • Target Algae: Soft green algae and diatoms
    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Origin: South America, Venezuela, Argentina
    • Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    The otocinclus catfish, dwarf suckerfish, or just plain oto, is probably the best nano algae-eating fish in the hobby. These small bottom dwelling fish are incredibly peaceful, and one of the few species that are 100% safe to keep with shrimp.

    Otos are pretty sensitive algae-eating catfish, that need great water quality to do well. Unfortunately, many of these awesome algae eaters do not survive being transported and switched between tanks. If you are careful and take the time to acclimate them slowly, however, they can be a great solution to your algae problems!

    3. Mollies

    Black Molly
    • Target Algae: Surface scum, hair algae, blanket weed algae, green fuzz algae
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: up to 4.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Mollies are one of the most common aquarium fish out there, and many aquarists will be surprised to hear that they eat al. That being said, these fish might not be the best freshwater algae eaters, but they can definitely help!

    One of the great benefits of these fun fish is their appetite for surface scum in the aquarium, which is something that other algae-eating fish aren’t great at controlling.

    4. Horned Nerite Snail

    • Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
    • Scientific Name: Clithon corona
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8.2
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Horned Nerite snails are excellent algae eaters for freshwater aquariums. They can vary a lot in color but are best known for the cool ‘horns’ that grow from their shells, giving them a really unique look.

    Unlike some other snails that will feed on plants or multiply out of control, these funky animals won’t give you any problems. Nerite snails are one of the only good options for removing black brush algae.

    5. Zebra Nerite Snail

    • Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
    • Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Origin: Southern and Eastern Africa
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Zebra nerite snails are very interesting freshwater algae eaters that are a great choice for nano aquariums. These algae-eating snails can live for years and won’t reproduce in your tank like regular ramshorn snails.

    Another great benefit of these algae-eating snails is that they don’t eat plants. They will lay eggs on the glass, but don’t worry, they won’t hatch and take over.

    6. Tiger Nerite Snail

    • Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
    • Scientific Name: Vittina semiconica
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Tiger nerite snails are another excellent algae-eating snail species that have amazing shell colors and patterns. in contrast with the stripes of the zebra nerites, these snails have rows of black markings on a golden orange shell.

    Like all aquarium snails, these guys will do better in harder water as this keeps their shells strong and looking great.

    7. Mystery Snail

    Mystery Snail
    • Target Algae: Hair algae
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Origin: Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Peru
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6-8.4
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    The mystery snail is a large snail with a bright-colored shell. These snails love eating algae, but they will also feed on leftover fish food and other food sources.

    While mystery snails do eat decaying plant material, they will not eat live aquarium plants, so they are a great choice for planted aquariums. Mystery snails can reproduce in your fish tank, but don’t usually breed out of control.

    8. Siamese

    Siamese Algae Eater
    • Target Algae: Filamentous green algae, black-brush algae
    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus langei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    The Siamese algae eater is one of the best algae eaters for larger aquariums. These freshwater aquarium sharks grow to over 6 inches in length. Siamese algae eaters are one of the only algae eaters that will feed on black beard algae.

    Take care when buying these fish because there are very similar fish known as the Chinese algae eater and the very similar flying fox. Chinese algae eaters in particular grow much larger than the Siamese algae eater and are known for some aggressive behaviors.

    9. Freshwater Goby

    • Target Algae: soft green algae, diatoms, blue-green algae, black brush algae
    • Scientific Name: Stiphodon spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Stiphodon gobies (video source) are amazing algae-eating fish with a great personalities. These fish are amazing to watch as they float around the aquarium, feeding on algae that grow on the glass and other surfaces like rocks and plant leaves.

    They are small algae eaters that fit in great in a community tank, just avoid keeping them with any large predatory fish.

    10. Bristlenose Pleco

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Target Algae: Soft green algae, green spot algae, diatoms, white fungus
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-7.2
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Bristlenose plecos are probably the most interesting-looking algae eaters available in the hobby. These effective algae-eating catfish are very peaceful with other fish but will be territorial when mature, so keep only one bristlenose in your tank.

    When they’re not engaged in algae control, these fish love to hide away in a sheltered spot, so be sure to pick up some aquarium cave ornaments for them to hang out in.

    11. Glass Shrimp

    • Target Algae: Hair algae
    • Scientific Name: Palaemonetes spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Origin: North America
    • Temperature: 65-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Glass shrimp or ghost shrimp as they are often known are a great member of any clean-up crew (video source). These animals aren’t going to be your first choice when picking an algae eater specifically, but they do help and are also excellent at cleaning up uneaten fish food. They are also very affordable and fascinating animals to watch!

    12. Cherry Shrimp

    Beginner Friendly
    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy In Bulk
    • Target Algae: Soft green algae, diatoms
    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Origin: Taiwan
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Planted Tanks: Yes

    Cherry shrimp are a great shrimp species for beginners. These colorful crustaceans love to feed on algae and biofilm in the aquarium, so they can really help to keep your tank looking clean. Cherry shrimp are a great choice for smaller aquariums, especially in tanks with nano fish that won’t eat them.

    When To Introduce Them

    Your aquarium should be fully cycled before introducing algae eaters or any other fish to the tank. It is normal to pick up a few algae problems while your tank is cycling, so avoid the urge to go out and start a whole army of algae eaters in the first few weeks.

    As you know, all aquariums contain algae, but it is possible to add too many algae eaters and have them run out of food. If you have too many algae eaters, you will need to supplement their diet with other food sources.

    Nano Tanks

    Choosing an algae eater for your nano tank can be very tricky, especially when the aquarium is already fully stocked, or if your tank is simply too small for fish. In this case, the best way to control algae will be to introduce some inverts like freshwater snails and algae-eating shrimp. Some great nano tank mates options are listed below:

    What To Feed Them

    This may seem pretty obvious. They eat algae, right? Well, that’s true of course but algae growth is dynamic, and you don’t want your animals going hungry as a reward for cleaning up your tank! If your algae eaters run out of food, you can provide them with the following supplementary food sources:

    • Spirulina tablets
    • Algae wafers
    • Blanched Vegetables
    • Algae grown on pebbles
    Great For Bottom Feeders!
    Hikari Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    Some of the species on my list, like mollies, are part-time algae eaters that will need a regular food supply in addition to the algae in your tank. Limiting their access to regular fish food will encourage them to focus on algae, but they will definitely need an additional food source.

    What To Do If You Still Have Algae (8 Ways To Get Rid Of)

    The best way to manage algae in your freshwater aquarium is definitely prevention rather than cure. In mature aquariums, algae tend to become a problem when the system is out of balance. If you still have an ongoing algae problem after introducing algae-eating animals, you’ll need to make some adjustments.

    We know that algae need water, light, and nutrients to grow. Well, water is always going to be part of the equation, but as an aquarist, at least you have control over the light and nutrients in your tank.

    Let’s look at other ways to reduce algae growth:

    1. Grow Live Plants

    Growing live plants is a great way to limit algae growth in your aquarium. Healthy, fast-growing plants like Vallisneria will out-compete the algae for nutrients while lowering the nutrient level in the water at the same time.

    2. Avoid Introducing It To Your Tank

    Sometimes, algae find their way into your tank on plants, and this can be the start of your problems. The best way to prevent this is to use tissue culture plants that are grown under sterile conditions.

    These plants can be hard to find at your local fish store. I recommend an online store like Buceplant.com as the first place to look because they stock such an incredible range of these safe-to-grow aquatic plants.

    3. Lower Your Lights

    Algae often thrive under bright lights. Unless you have a planted tank, I would suggest using low-powered aquarium lights to be safe. If you prefer not to change your lights, reducing your photoperiod (day length) can also be very helpful.

    For planted tanks with higher end led systems, you will need to balance light, CO2, and fertilizers. If there is an imbalance, algae will thrive.

    4. Put Your Tank On A Diet

    Algae need nutrients to grow. One of the biggest mistakes aquarists make is to feed their fish more than they can eat. The uneaten food then becomes a great source of nutrients for algae, which is the last thing you want!

    5. Use A Remover Solution

    There are many algae removing solutions out there on the market that can work on various types of algae. The one I recommend is APT Fix. This is a spot dosage treatment you can use on BBA, string, hair, fuzz, and film algae. This is a great product to use if you have a planted tank.

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    6. Avoid Overstocking

    Apart from fish food, the other big source of excess nutrients in your tank is fish waste. The more fish you have, the more waste they can produce. To avoid these issues, keep your tank stocked below its maximum limit.

    7. Upgrade Your Filtration

    If you’re having water quality issues, it could mean your filtration system is inadequate for the size and bioload of your aquarium. Upgrading to a larger filter (like a canister filter), or even adding a second filter to the tank can be very helpful.

    8. Maintenance

    Even if your freshwater aquarium is stocked with the best algae-eating animals, and you’ve followed all the steps listed above, you still need to perform regular aquarium maintenance.

    Make sure you perform water changes and vacuum your gravel regularly. Using an aquarium water test kit is the best way to monitor the water parameters of your tank.

    Where To Buy Them

    Most good pet and aquarium stores will offer at least one species of algae-eating animal for your freshwater aquarium. Instead of driving all day or calling around, I suggest checking an online store like Flipaquatics.com.

    They stock a huge variety of algae-eating fish and invertebrates, and their team does an amazing job of taking care of their livestock, so you don’t have to stress about them arriving in one piece.

    FAQS

    Do snails eat algae?

    Most aquarium snails are great at cleaning up the tank because they feed on algae and leftover fish food. The nerite snails, mystery snails, and rabbit snails are the most popular because they do not multiply. Other aquarium species like Malaysian trumpet snails and ramshorn snails also eat algae, but they can become a bit of a pest.

    What kind of fish keeps the tank clean?

    Luckily for aquarists, there are many excellent algae-eating fish that can keep the aquarium clean. The best algae-eating fish for freshwater aquariums are otocinclus catfish, twig catfish, bristlenose plecos, and siamese algae eaters.

    What products should I use in a freshwater tank?

    There are effective products on the market like API Algaefix that can be used to kill algae in your tank. A better long-term organic solution would be to introduce some algae eaters and make some adjustments to your tank’s light and nutrient levels, however.

    Why does my fish tank keep turning green?

    The most common reasons for algae growth in your aquarium are too much light and nutrients. If your tank is exposed to any direct sunlight, you will need to shade it or consider moving it to another position. If you keep live plants in your tank, adding more nutrients can increase plant health and help them outcompete the algae.

    How big do they get?

    Algae eaters range in size from tiny algae-eating shrimp to large fish that can measure over a foot in length! Be sure to research the maximum size of any animal before introducing it to your freshwater aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    Using algae eaters to keep your tank clean is an amazing organic solution to pesky algae. Although the best way of managing algae is preventing its growth, algae eaters are such cool animals to keep that a little extra algae growth can be forgiven!

    What are the best algae eaters that you’ve kept in your aquarium? Let me know below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • How Much Does an Axolotl Cost? Full Breakdown Including Setup, Food, and Ongoing Care

    How Much Does an Axolotl Cost? Full Breakdown Including Setup, Food, and Ongoing Care

    Axolotls are genuinely affordable to buy โ€” you can find a common leucistic for $20โ€“$40 from a reputable breeder. The part that catches new keepers off guard is the setup cost, specifically temperature. Axolotls need water below 72ยฐF, and in most homes that means a chiller, which runs $100โ€“$200 or more. That’s the single biggest budget item most people don’t plan for. Factor in a properly sized tank, a good filter, and the right substrate (sand only โ€” they’ll ingest gravel and it can kill them), and you’re looking at a real upfront investment before the animal even arrives. Here’s the complete cost breakdown so you’re not surprised.

    What are axolotls?

    Before digging further, let’s give a quick review of what actually axolotls are and how are they different from other salamanders.

    Axolotls are amphibians. However, unlike salamanders, they spend most of their lives underwater. They are close relatives of Tiger salamander and range up to a foot in length. (quite a large size for salamanders)

    They typically showcase mottled brown and black colors. However, in some rare and costly varieties, Albino and Leucistic axolotls display a translucent white color with shiny gold flecks and red or pink feathery gills.

    How are they different from other salamanders?

    Axolotls charm marine experts for their retention of features from the larval stage.

    If you’ve seen tadpoles, you know what I’m talking about!

    Amphibians; in general, go through a process called metamorphosis. It is a process in which an animal goes through certain developmental changes in the body structure. However, this process doesn’t apply to axolotls.

    Axolotls, even in their adulthood retain their larval features including tadpole-like fins and external feathery gills.

    One enticing thing about axolotls is that they take their regeneration to the next level. It would surprise you that axolotls cannot only regenerate tissues, but limbs, brains, spines, and even jaws!

    How Much Do Axolotls cost?

    Axolotl in Aquarium

    The average cost of an axolotl doesn’t end with its purchase.

    There are several other costs involved; the axolotl tank, accessories, delivery fees, recurring costs, monthly cost, yearly cost, and much more!

    So, let’s go budgeting!

    The Initial Cost

    Axolotls are generally considered inexpensive exotic pets with an initial cost of around $30 to $100; that too for basic and juvenile axolotls.

    The price, however, varies for exotic or adult axolotls. Depending on the rarity of morph and the health of the axolotl, rare axolotls like piebald axolotl cost around $100.

    The adult Golden Albino axolotl costs around $45. Meanwhile, other varieties with exceptional pigmentations would cost you around $300 to $1500.

    Shipping

    If you’ve ordered your axolotl online through a reputable store, be sure to add a few bucks (say $40 to $60) as a flat rate of the shipping cost for each pet.

    The Tank

    So, this is where your actual expenses lie. An axolotl needs a larger tank than any other amphibian.

    That’s because they spend their whole time underwater and the smallest tank you can accommodate for young axolotls is 10 gallons. 

    For a mature axolotl tank, a standard 20 gallons aquarium would suffice.

    However, it’s not just the tank that counts.

    Since your smiling pets would be captive-bred animals, they would need ample lighting and filtration. Some pet stores offer various aquarium kits and ensembles that include LED lighting, filtration device and cartridges, heating devices, and other tank decors.

    The overall tank setup would cost you somewhere between $100 to $300 approximately.

    Recurring Costs

    Lucky for you; axolotls are exclusively captive pets.

    And on top of all that, they have exceptional regenerative abilities. It makes it easier to minus the health problems of axolotls and clinical attention.

    However, I still recommend visiting the vet once a year to rule out any medical abnormalities in your pet.

    Basically, the only recurring cost left is food.

    Axolotls enjoy a protein-rich diet including brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms. Many novice keepers make the mistake to feed feeder fish and mice to their diet. I strongly discourage live or dead food as it may introduce bacterial and parasitic infections to the tank.

    Hence, the annual recurring cost of grown-up axolotls that feed twice weekly is estimated to be around $50.

    Medical Care

    I have rarely seen an axolotl falling sick and dying of a fatal disease.

    However, they are living beings and require regular medical upkeep. As a responsible axolotl owner, you should make a yearly visit to the vet to avoid deadly diseases or aliments.

    Factors Affecting the Price of This Pet

    No two axolotls are the same. And that applies to their cost as well. There are a number of factors that affect the axolotl price.

    Axolotl Morphs

    Morph Rarity

    When it comes to axolotl price, it mostly depends on the rarity of color. There are some varieties that are extremely rare, and hence the fancy price tag. Meanwhile, the common and basic morphs are inexpensive and easily available in pet stores.

    Age

    Age is also an essential factor in determining the cost of an axolotl. Adult axolotls sell at a higher price than juveniles. That’s because mature axolotls are easy to care for and friendly.

    Health Conditions

    While visiting the pet store, you may encounter the same morph axolotls selling at a low cost than some others. That could be mainly because of their health conditions.

    A healthy axolotl would retail at a much higher price than the ones in poor conditions.

    I advise inspecting the axolotl before making your valuable purchase. An unhealthy axolotl will most likely be lethargic and unresponsive.

    Breeder

    The price also varies from breeder to breeder. Some breeders charge higher prices due to their reputation or brand name. Other breeders may charge nominal rates for a basic morph.

    Requirements for the Tank

    Like I said before, the prices for axolotls vary depending on their pigmentation and health. However, it’s the tank cost that makes the difference.

    Along with a larger tank, axolotls require several other essentials to keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives.

    I have prepared a thorough list for pet owners to guide through the proper requirements and estimated costs of an axolotl tank.

    The Aquarium

    Estimated cost: $25 – 100

    Happy axolotls are the best.

    And what keeps the axolotl happy is a long aquarium around 30 inches in length.

    For your convenience, I would suggest a standard 20-gallon long tank for an adult axolotl that provides much room for movement. For the best price, you can consider buying a cheap one used or waiting for a local chain pet store’s dollar per gallon sale.

    Also, axolotls prefer dim lights. And so, I encourage placing some type of hide in the aquarium for them to get shade.

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    Filtration

    Estimated Cost: Less than $100 – $150+

    You can cut the cost of filtration only if you promise to change the water regularly. 

    Yes, you can go cheap on filtration for axolotls if you are willing to do more water changes. However, I recommend installing canister filters in axolotl’s water tank.

    You might wonder why.

    Well, axolotls produce a lot of waste, which means a lot of ammonia. And they are extremely sensitive to poor water conditions. Therefore, installing a high quality filter would be the safest option.

    Also, canister filters, although difficult to maintain, provide enough room for biomedia and gentle water flow to keep your pets healthy.

    A good-quality canister filter usually costs less than $100 and lasts much longer than expected. Fluvals would be consider top-tier for a Axolotl tank, but you can do well with a budget canister like a Sun Sun.

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    Substrates

    Estimated Cost: $15 – $25

    You have to be very finicky while choosing the substrate for axolotl.

    Since axolotls have delicate skin, the hard or sharp substrate might cause potential injuries to your axolotl. The costs of substrate or aquarium sand should cost you no more than $10 or $15. 

    Natural Fine Sand

    I always recommend natural fine sand substrates for the axolotl aquariums. (with caution, of course)

    If you choose natural sand substrates, make sure to avoid Calcium Carbonate sand as it might disrupt the pH levels of the tank.

    Also, I recommend stirring the sand once in a while to help prevent the buildup of air gases and bacteria.

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    Rocks and Gravels

    Always remember; the larger the rocks, the better!

    Axolotls have delicate mouths, and they suck in their food.

    If you use rocks that are too small, your axolotl will suffer from intestinal blockage and experience several health problems.

    Also, rocks and gravels should be smooth-edged and rounded. For younger axolotls (under 6 inches/15 cm long), avoid using any rocks or substrate at all. 

    Lighting

    Estimated cost: less than $50

    Fun fact: Axolotls do not have eyelids!

    And so, strong lighting overwhelms them.

    If you want to install lighting sources, always go for LED aquarium lights that are dimmable.

    However, the best advice I can give you is to utilize natural lighting. Axolotls do not require lighting, nor does the tank. But, if you have live plants, you can always opt for Planted Tank LED lights that are adjustable.

    This way, the tank also doesn’t heat up and water temperature is maintained throughout.

    The lighting cost for an axolotl tank should cost you around $50 for a premium-quality, adjustable LED aquarium light.

    Water Temperature & Chiller

    Estimated Cost: $10 – $15

    One thing that makes Axolotls challenging for beginners is their demand for optimal water temperatures.

    The ideal water temperature for Axolotls ranges from 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit.

    However, in some rare cases, they have adapted to water temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

    According to experts, Axolotls show sluggish behavior below 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and higher temperatures might trigger serious diseases. Also, temperature fluctuations can be detrimental to your axolotl, as they are sensitive to them.

    Therefore, in hotter climates, it is a challenge to maintain water temperature, an aquarium chiller should be installed to ensure water stays cool enough.

    A fan costs around $10 and can work exceptionally well in keeping your tank water cool.

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    Even in cooler climates, a heater for an axolotl tank is not needed as the temperatures rarely fall below the their preferred ranges. If needed, the LED lighting or natural source of light would provide enough heat to the tank. Having a lid on the aquarium will also keep heat inside

    Decoration

    Estimated Cost: Around $50

    Axolotls appreciate decorations as much as other aquarium pets.

    However, you have to be extra careful with the decors you choose for your smiling pet.

    I always suggest live plants for axolotl tank as they like sitting on them. Low light plants like Java fern, , Java Moss, Eludia, Marimo moss ball, and floating plants like Amazon Frogbits, and Water Lettuce are some excellent options for axolotl.

    Nevertheless, axolotls do great without live plants. If you want to adorn your tank, feel free to add fake (plastic) plants as they require zero maintenance and lighting.

    Additionally, to offer some safe places to hide, you can invest in high-quality hides for the axolotl, such as Cichlid rocks or Ceramic pipes, dragon stones, river rocks. Rock structures are also a great addition to an axolotl aquarium, which costs around $50 each.

    You can add absolutely anything, just make sure the edges of objects are not sharp to avoid injuries.

    Water De-chlorinator

    Estimated cost: $10

    Water de-chlorinator is something that your axolotl would thank you for!

    Axolotls make a lot of mess in their natural habitat and things are no different in the home aquariums. Therefore, the tap water needs to be de-chlorinated every now and then to make it axolotl-friendly.

    I always recommend installing water de-chlorinators in your axolotl tanks.

    They are cheap and readily available in the market and cost around $10 or so. I recommend Seachem Prime.

    The Total Costs of Owning This Pet

    Now that I’ve covered everything, let’s break all the expenses down for you.

    The initial cost of an small axolotl is around $30 to $100, depending upon the breed and variation you opt for.

    However, if you buy your axolotl online, it might cost you an additional $40 to $60 due to shipping and morphs (since online sellers tend to have better morphs).

    For an adult, you need a large tank of around 20-gallons. This would cost you around $200 to $300 with all the required devices.

    Lastly, the complete axolotl aquarium setup would cost you around $150 to $600 minus the food and water therapy.

    Also, baby axolotl needs to eat more frequently than adults. But as they grow, they require less feeding and more maintenance. 

    So, axolotls are amazing pets that are quite inexpensive as compared to other exotic pets. And the total cost you pay or spend on your smiling pals is worth every penny.

    FAQS

    Do they bite?

    Yes, they do. Since axolotls are carnivorous, they bite everything. Axolotls also bite their fellows in the tank if they get too close to each other. However, their bite feels more like a tingling sensation rather than an actual animal bite.

    Is it illegal to own one as a pet (Mexican walking fish)?

    Yes, it is — in some states.

    Axolotls are unfortunately considered critically endangered species. Also, their population in the wild is slowly decreasing. Therefore, in some states like California, Maine, New Jersey, and Virginia have put restrictions to make them illegal.

    The California law doesn’t prohibit owning axolotls because they are endangered, but because they pose a serious threat to native wildlife. Hence, it is advised to keep axolotls that are bred and raised in captivity rather than in their natural habitat.

    How much does the rarest one cost?

    The rare axolotls can cost around $300 to $1500, depending on the morph, age, and overall health conditions.

    Some axolotl morphs are extremely rare, which includesย Chimera axolotls, mosaic axolotl, Enigma axolotl, Piebald axolotl, Firefly axolotl, and Lavender axolotl.

    The Chimera and Mosaic axolotls are only sold through specialized sellers. The Enigma axolotls are worth around $1500.

    The piebald axolotl costs around $300. The Firefly and Lavender axolotl cost somewhere between $250 to $115 each.

    How much does it cost per month?

    The monthly costs of owning an axolotl only include food consumables.
    And luckily, their food supplies are much cheaper than any other exotic pet. The diet of axolotl comprises protein-rich food that mostly includes brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc.

    Generally, the adult axolotl eats twice or three times a week. So, the monthly expenses of owning an axolotl should not be more than $20 to $30.

    Are they good pets?

    Axolotls are interesting creatures.

    They are hardy, always smiling, easy to look after, and easy to feed.

    Just what an axolotl owner needs!

    However, they might not be the best fit for novice keepers as there are a few things to consider;

    1. Temperature for axolotls should be between 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything more or less than that may put your pet under stress
    2. Since they have a sensitive mouth, the substrate or decors used should be of high quality and kept clean
    3. They demand clean water filtration. Therefore, a high-quality filter is recommended

    Final Thoughts

    Now you know what it costs to own an axolotl.

    Besides everything, make sure to keep the water clean, and water temperatures maintained for your walking fish to stay healthy and smiling. The price that starts from $30 may touch $600 or so after complete tank setup. So, I believe it’s not much to invest given the joy and how long these animals live.

    Got any comments to share? Leave a comment below and let’s get a conversation going!