Author: Mark Valderrama

  • Dojo Loach Care Guide: The ‘Weather Fish’ That’s Bigger Than You Think

    Dojo Loach Care Guide: The ‘Weather Fish’ That’s Bigger Than You Think

    The dojo loach โ€” also known as the weather loach or pond loach โ€” is one of the most underrated fish in the freshwater hobby. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve developed a real appreciation for them. They’re called “weather fish” because they genuinely become more active before storms, sensing changes in barometric pressure โ€” one of the most interesting behaviors you’ll see in a home aquarium. But there are also some things to know before buying: dojo loaches get larger than most people expect (up to 12 inches), they’re legendary escape artists that will find any gap in your lid, and they prefer cooler water than most tropical species. This guide covers everything you need to keep them thriving.

    The Dojo Loach (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus), is an awesome freshwater fish that makes a really great addition to freshwater aquariums. These eel-shaped fish have loads of personality and can be very entertaining to watch as they explore the bottom of the fish tank.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameMisgurnus anguillicaudatus
    Common NamesDojo Loach, Weather Loach, Japanese Weather Loach, Weatherfish, Pond Loach, Oriental Loach, Dojo Fish
    FamilyCobitidae
    OriginCentral & Eastern Asia from Siberia to Vietnam. Introduced widely
    DietCarnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan7-10 years 
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelBottom
    Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
    Temperature Range59ยฐ โ€“ 77ยฐF
    Water Hardness1 โ€“ 12 dKH
    pH Range6 – 8
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedDifficult to breed
    CompatibilitySpecies-only tank or community tank 
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes, but known to uproot plants

    Origins and Habitat

    The Dojo Loach is a fish species with a pretty wide distribution. They are native to the countries of:

    • Russia
    • China
    • Japan
    • Korea
    • Vietnam        

    Today, the Dojo Loach has an even wider distribution because it has been introduced to many countries outside of its natural range. Sometimes these fish escape when kept in ponds, and sometimes people release them into local waterways.

    As a result, you can find these fish swimming wild in parts of Europe, The USA, and Australia. Their natural habitat is ponds, swamps, and shallow streams with a soft, muddy substrate.  

    What Do They Look Like?

    Dojo Loach

    The Dojo Loach is a long, eel-like fish. They have a small, rounded tail and a similar-sized dorsal fin that is set quite far back.

    Like other loaches, the Weatherfish has 1o little whiskers around its mouth. These structures are actually called barbels and they help the fish to find food.

    Varieties

    Their color varies a lot and they can be plain, striped, or marked in spots and blotches. In the aquarium hobby, interesting albino and golden color morphs are also available.

    • Golden Dojo Loach

    Gold Dojo Loaches are a really cool color morph that has a plain, golden yellow body color, usually with dark eyes.

    • Albino Dojo Loach

    Albino Dojo Loaches can be a little lighter in color than the gold dojos and have red eyes.

    Size

    Dojo Loaches are medium-sized fish that usually grow to about 6 inches long in the home aquarium. They can grow to double this size in the wild, however. If you can provide them with a nice big aquarium and great water quality, you might just be surprised at how big they grow!  

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Dojo Loach is a pretty long-lived fish that will usually survive for 7-10 years in the aquarium. Of course, the better its living environment, the longer your pet is likely to live, so make sure you read the sections about the diet and tank set up for these awesome fish.

    Dojo Loach Care Guide

    One of the reasons that Dojo Loaches are so popular is that they are friendly fish with great personalities. In case you’ve been wondering about why the Dojo Loach is also known as a Weather loach, this next fact will amaze you.

    These fascinating fish can predict changes in weather. They don’t use satellite imagery or any fancy technology for this, rather the barometric pressure changes that happen before a storm causes their activity levels to spike.

    So if you see your Weatherfish spring into action and start getting restless, it might be time to shut the windows and get ready for some rain. Apart from this, Dojo Loaches can be pretty inactive fish.

    They love hanging out at the bottom of the tank and hiding in caves or under rocks and driftwood. They also enjoy digging through the substrate and you’ll often find just their little faces sticking up out of the sand.    

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    The first tank mate to get for your Weather Loach is definitely a few more Weather Loaches! These fish are most comfortable in groups and will be more bold and active with a few friends around. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep them in a community tank other species as well though.

    Before we get onto a few specific ideas, here are a few general pointers for choosing Dojo Loach tank mates:

    • These fish require cooler water, so it’s important that you select tankmates that enjoy lower water temperatures
    • Choose similar fish that are not known for aggression or fin nipping
    • Avoid large predatory fish
    • Try to choose some mid and topwater tank mates to avoid overcrowding the bottom of the tank  

    Best Tank Mates for Them

    Now that you know what to look out for, here are a couple of great species that I would recommend:

    Least Compatible Fish for Them

    Unfortunately, warm-water tropical fish will not be good tankmates, unless they are comfortable in temperatures of below about 77ยฐF. Here are a few examples of fish that are not recommended:

    Goldfish

    There are too many reports of Dojo Loaches attacking Goldfish to ignore. While keeping them together with Common Goldfish is probably perfectly safe, less agile fancy Goldfish should probably be avoided.

    Invertebrates

    These bottom dwellers feed on invertebrates like snails, crustaceans, and insect larvae. This means that they are not good tank mates for shrimp and snails.

    In fact, Weather Loaches can be very handy for controlling pest snail populations in freshwater aquariums. Although larger shrimps like Amanos will probably hold their own against Weather Loaches, I wouldn’t recommend taking the risk.

    What Do They Eat?

    In nature, Dojo Loaches are carnivores. They hunt the bottom of swamps and streams for small invertebrates like worms and insect larvae, snails, and small crustaceans. They would also certainly take fish larvae and eggs.

    Let’s take a look at how to provide them with a healthy diet:

    Prepared Foods

    Freezed Dried Food

    As far as processed foods are concerned, bottom feeder tablets or sinking pellets are the best options for these fish. They will eat flake food but they don’t usually feed from the water surface.

    It’s really fun to watch these fish feed. Once the tablet has reached the bottom of the tank (or sometimes even before), they will smell the food and begin searching the bottom of the tank. Once found, the feeding frenzy begins as they playfully wrestle each other, taking turns feeding on the shrinking pellet.

    Another reason that this fish species can be so fun to keep is that, with a little patience, they will happily eat right out of your hand if they like the food you are providing.

    Live & Frozen Foods

    Feeding frozen and live foods is a great way to provide your Dojo Loaches with a natural food source. If you have other schooling fish in the tank like minnows or danios, your loaches might not get much before it’s all eaten though.

    One way to limit this competition is to feed enough for all of your fish to get a good helping. Alternatively, you can add your live/frozen foods just after your other fish have had their fill of the pellets or tropical flakes they usually feed on.

    Some great live/frozen foods that you can feed your Dojo Loaches include:

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    If feeding sinking foods like bottom feeder tablets, you can feed these fish every day or every second day. It really depends on the amount of food you are providing, as well as the number and size of your fish.

    In order to prevent overfeeding, make sure you aren’t feeding more than your fish can eat in one go. Uneaten food in the tank tends to cause nasty ammonia spikes and reduced water quality.

    Tank Setup

    If you want your Dojo Loach to live the longest, healthiest life possible, you’ll need to create an awesome tank where it can feel right at home. Here’s how:

    Tank Size

    When it comes to choosing the best tank size for aquarium fish, you must consider both the size of the fish and their habits. In the case of the adult Weather Loach, you’re going to need a tank of at least 55 gallons.

    When you first get your dojos, they might be just a few inches long, but then they still have plenty of growing to do! A mature Dojo Loach can reach nearly a foot long.

    These fish don’t spend a whole lot of time swimming in the open water, so a tank with a large footprint is ideal so give them plenty of room to explore the bottom.

    Don’t Forget the Lid/Hood

    You might not think it by looking at them, but loach species tend to be great jumpers. Sadly, these fish will jump out of aquariums without lids, and usually, this ends in tragedy. For this reason, dojos should only be housed in aquariums with tight-fitting lids. If you are considering a rimless aquarium, purchase a glass lid from the manufacturer or store you purchase from.

    Plants

    Growing live plants in your aquarium is pretty much always a great benefit for your fish. Sometimes, however, the fish aren’t so good for the plants, and this can be the case with the Dojo Loach.

    These fish are natural-born diggers, and they just love to crawl through the roots of plants. Unfortunately, this often disturbs the plants and sometimes uproots them completely.

    While dojo loaches aren’t a great choice for carefully designed aquascapes, you definitely can keep them in planted tanks. I would suggest growing epiphytes that grow attached to driftwood, floating plants, or leaving stem and rosette plants in their pots.

    Some great plants to use are:

    Plants to avoid

    Substrate

    Pond Loaches are bottom dwellers that love to dig and explore the bottom of the tank. They have sensitive whiskers called barbels, and their bodies are not covered in protective scales. This means that they can easily hurt themselves in a sharp, coarse substrate.

    In their natural habitat, these fish prefer mud and soft sand, but the best aquarium substrates for them is definitely fine sand or rounded gravel.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Decor

    Apart from burying themselves in the substrate, Weather Loaches also love to hang out in caves and other hiding places. You can make up your own hiding places by stacking rocks or driftwood carefully, just make sure you arrange your hardscape securely to prevent any accidents during tank maintenance.

    If you prefer ready-made options, you can always pick up some aquarium ornaments like artificial caves, castles, or sunken ships.

    Water Quality

    When it comes to aquarium husbandry, maintaining great water quality is the most important factor for success. Let’s take a look at how to keep your aquarium clean and healthy:

    Filtration

    A good quality filter is essential for keeping your tank clean and safe for your pets. When it comes to Dojo loaches, any type of filter is fine, although these fish do not enjoy very strong water flow.

    One important tip is to go ahead and cover up your filter intake to be on the safe side because loaches love to hide, and often find their way inside filters.

    Water Parameters

    One of the most important things to remember is that Dojo Loaches aren’t tropical fish, so you probably will not need to run a heater to keep your water temperature in the right range. Be aware that if you live in a tropical area, the water temperatures in your tank might rise to warmer than 77ยฐF even without a heater.

    Apart from their temperature needs, Weather Loaches are very hardy fish that will do well in most setups. They are happy in slightly acidic to slightly alkaline water, with a range of hardness values.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    You will need to perform regular partial water changes to keep your aquarium water safe and healthy for your pets. Although Dojo Loaches are not very sensitive to water conditions, they definitely deserve the best conditions that you can provide for them.

    Water changes are a pretty easy and straightforward job that you can do every week or two. If you’re not sure about how to change the water in your tank, go ahead and check out this article for all you need to know!

    Test Tank Conditions

    Even with a great quality filter and regular maintenance, the only way to know how good your water parameters are is to test. Your local fish store can test your water for you, but I would definitely recommend picking up a test kit.

    Testing your water is easy, and this way, you’ll be able to pick up any problems before they turn into a headache! The most important parameters to test for are:

    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate
    • pH    

    Breeding

    Few aquarists have managed to breed this fish species in the home aquarium. That being said, it does happen and many fry have been successfully raised this way. the greatest challenge is that this often seems to happen out of the blue, so it is unknown exactly what triggers breeding and how to create these conditions in the tank. I supplied the video above from FishyBusiness. I’ll explain in text below.

    Sexing

    The most visible difference between male and female loaches is the size and shape of their pectoral fins. These fins are located just behind the fish’s gills.

    In the male, they are larger and more triangular in shape when looked at from above. The female’s pectoral fins will be rounder in profile and a little smaller.

    Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

    It is not known exactly what makes Dojo Loaches get into the mood to breed in the aquarium. Many fish are stimulated to breed by a change in barometric pressure, water temperature, and current that mimics a change in the seasons.

    When it comes to Weather Loaches, there are no guarantees though, so your best chance is probably just to provide your fish with a great home with perfect parameters and a high-quality diet that includes live/frozen foods like Tubifex worms or black worms.  

    Health and Disease

    Dojo Loaches are usually very hardy, low-maintenance fish for cool water aquariums. They do pick up issues from time to time though, so let’s take a look at how to identify and avoid health problems.

    Evaluating Their Health

    Whether you’re picking out a new pet at the fish store, or just keeping an eye on the health of the fish in your tank, there are some important things to look out for.

    A healthy Dojo Loach will spend a lot of its time hiding out in the substrate or under the hardscape of your aquarium. This is normal behavior, so don’t worry if they seem a little inactive. Around feeding time they should get a lot more lively, however.

    Signs of poor health to look out for are:

    • Clamped fins that are held tight against the fishes sides
    • Floating caused by swim bladder issues
    • Worn barbels that could indicate infection or damage from a sharp substrate
    • White spots or patches on the skin that caused by parasites and fungal infections
    • Swollen external gills

    Common Health Issues

    Although Dojo Loaches are very hardy aquarium bottom feeders, these are the issues that they are most likely to have:  

    • Skin infections
    • Ich
    • Swim bladder  disease

    Weather Loaches don’t have any scales which means their skin is very sensitive to damage. These fish love to dig, so avoid keeping them in a tank with a sharp substrate that could injure their skin and barrels, leaving them vulnerable to infections.

    The best way to avoid illness is to make sure you keep your water quality high by running good filtration and performing regular water changes. Keeping Weather Loaches in water that is too warm will also stress your fish, which can lead to infections and other health issues.

    Where to Buy

    Dojo Loaches are common fish in the aquarium trade, and you can usually find them at your local fish store or online. I recommend checking out Flipaquatics because they keep great quality stock and back it up with a 100% live arrival guarantee to take the stress out of online shopping. They also stock the amazing golden form when available and quarantine all their fish!

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What do they eat?

    Dojo Loaches hunt for small invertebrates like worms and crustaceans. In the aquarium, they can be fed sinking pellets and tablets as well as frozen foods like bloodworms.

    Are they Hardy?

    Dojo Loaches are one of the hardiest aquarium fish out there, and many people even keep them outdoors in ponds. This isn’t recommended though because these fish have escaped ponds and gotten into local waterways where they are invasive.

    What size tank do they need?

    Dojo Loaches grow to over 10 inches in length. A minimum tank size of about 55 gallons is recommended for keeping adults.

    What fish can go with them?

    The best fish to keep with Dojo Loaches are other peaceful fish like Danios and White Cloud Minnows that also prefer a cooler water temperature.

    Closing Thoughts

    Dojo Loaches deserve a spot in just about any unheated freshwater aquarium. These funny freshwater fish are easy to care for and very entertaining to watch as they explore the lower levels of the tank. You can use the information in this guide to help you provide your Weather Loach with the best care.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Estimative Index (EI) โ€“ What It Is and How To Use It in Your Planted Tank

    Estimative Index (EI) โ€“ What It Is and How To Use It in Your Planted Tank

    The Estimative Index is one of those fertilization methods that completely changed how I think about dosing planted tanks. Developed by Tom Barr, EI takes the guesswork out of fertilization by overdosing nutrients slightly each week and doing a large water change to reset โ€” it’s elegant in its simplicity and brutally effective in practice. I’ve run EI in my own high-tech tanks and found it far more reliable than trying to dial in exact dosing for each individual nutrient. If you’re running CO2 and serious about plant growth, this method is worth understanding.

    What Is The Estimative Index Method?

    The Estimative Index (EI) was developed by Tom Barr in the mid-1990s1. The index (dosing rates) was developed through experimentation and the beauty of the system is that it is proportional to aquarium water volume, so you can apply the index to any planted aquarium size.

    This technique provides an excellent general starting point, but it can also be customized to suit the characteristics of your setup. Essentially, this method of plant fertilizing involves overdosing all the nutrients your plants need on a consistent basis and then performing large weekly water changes to reset the parameters.

    By doing this you will not need to test nutrient values because your values will stay in a relatively stable range, week after week.

    Benefits of This Method

    Planted Aquarium EI

    The system is designed to remove the need to rely on a test kit, which can be inaccurate anyway unless you have expensive calibrated equipment. In a nutshell, the goal of the system is to provide your plants with complete nutrition, at repeatable and consistent levels.

    The EI system works on the assumption that algae growth is not triggered by high nutrient levels, but more often from an imbalance of CO2. This may sound like an odd statement until you consider that one of the best ways to out-compete algae growth is to have vigorous competition from healthy aquatic plants.

    Supplying more nutrients prevents the development of plant deficiencies so naturally, it makes sense to boost your plant performance as much as possible.

    Who Is it For?

    The Estimative Index method is especially useful for high-light tanks that are heavily planted. This applies in particular to high-tech setups that have stable levels of CO2 from injection systems that match the lighting period of the tank.

    Without the high energy conditions created by high lighting and added CO2, increased nutrient levels will not be as effective. Still, it is possible to use the principles of EI in low light tanks, but the strength and frequency of the dosing will need to be decreased

    EI is not necessary for aquarists who just keep a few low-light plants in their fish tanks and are happy with the results they achieve. Instead, this is a system for growers with a high light tank that want to get the most out of their plants. That means achieving the fastest growth and the best color, all while seriously reducing algae growth.

    Although this system does have some pretty substantial start-up costs, the raw materials will last a long time, saving you plenty of money in the long run when compared with dosing liquid fertilizers at similar concentrations.

    EI And Fish Safety

    The method appears to be perfectly safe for fish since nitrates are kept around the standard 20ppm mark and CO2 levels are maintained at or below the safe level of 30ppm. Performing large, regular water changes is very important, however, to reset the tank to reduce excess nutrient levels and manage the ammonia introduced by decaying plant parts and fish waste.

    Dosing

    EI Index Dosing

    The reason why the EI dosing levels are so scaleable is that they are proportional to water volume, rather than measured in a set value like milligrams or ounces. The dosages are described in parts per million(ppm) per week and are estimated to cover the maximum potential nutrient uptake rates for aquarium plants.

    I understand this might be getting a little complicated at this point, so read on for a breakdown of exactly what these terms mean.

    How Is PPM Calculated?

    Ppm is a simple way of describing a concentration. For example, 1 milligram of a powder mixed with 1 liter of aquarium water creates a concentration of 1 part per million, pretty simple right?

    What Is Nutrient Uptake?

    Nutrient uptake is a very important concept to understand when discussing the EI Method. Nutrient uptake is simply the amount of nutrients a plant can take out(uptake) from the aquarium water column in a defined period.

    Let’s take a look at an example to help explain this concept:

    You have one healthy aquarium plant in your tank and you dose a certain nutrient to a concentration of 20 ppm. The next day, you measure the concentration of the same nutrient and find that the concentration has dropped to 15ppm.

    You are now able to calculate the plant’s nutrient uptake rate and it can be described as 5 ppm per day. Since ppm is a ratio, this measured nutrient uptake rate will apply to your plant in your specific tank size.

    What Affects Nutrient Uptake Rate?

    • Different plant species have different potential growth rates. Fast-growing stem plants have a much higher nutrient uptake rate than slow-growing epiphytes for example.
    • As light intensity increases, photosynthesis increases, placing more demand on the plant’s nutrient stores to produce sugars.
    • As with light, carbon dioxide availability is essential for the process of photosynthesis to occur. Both must be in balance, and therefore, high light will create an increased demand for CO2.
    • Plant mass and size- The larger a plant, the greater its nutrient uptake potential will be.

    The Goal Of EI Nutrient Dosing

    The goal of EI nutrient dosing is to guarantee that your plants are never deficient in any of the nutrients that they need. In other words, the plant’s maximum nutrient uptake levels are always available in the aquarium water.

    The recommended dose concentrations are designed to match the maximum amount that plants can potentially use in a very high light planted aquarium. This doesn’t mean that they will necessarily use all of these nutrients in the water column, it just means that there is no benefit in adding any more.

    Another great benefit of EI dosing is the prevention of algae blooms. If you dose consistently, your healthy plants will out-compete algae, now that’s a win-win!

    Recommended Dosage Rates

    The ideal nutrient levels that you will try to maintain in the water column when using the EI method are as follows:

    • Carbon Dioxide (CO2): 20-30ppm per week
    • Nitrate (NO3): 20 ppm per week
    • Potassium (K): 10-30 ppm per week
    • Phosphate (PO4): 1-2 ppm per week
    • Magnesium (Mg): 10 ppm per week
    • Iron (Fe): 0.5 ppm per week

    These uptake rates were measured under the maximum level of light intensity that plants can use for photosynthesis. What this means is that whether you have moderate light, or high-intensity lighting, the dose rates above will always provide enough nutrients to your plants.

    The fact that your planted aquarium probably has a lower intensity of light and your plant’s actual nutrient uptake rate is lower does not matter.

    What You Need To Use This Method

    A major difference between using regular liquid solutions and root tabs, and using the EI method is the consistency of the nutrients. In this case, you will be using each nutrient in its pure dry powdered form. It is up to you to mix them up or dose them individually at the right concentrations.

    Purchasing the chemicals is pretty expensive, particularly because you will need a few of them to get started properly. If you do the math though, and you’re serious about maintaining a heavily planted aquarium, you’ll actually be saving a lot of money in the long run.

    Macro-nutrients For Plant Growth

    Magnesium Sulfate

    Macronutrients are the substances needed by plants in relatively high concentrations. Here’s what they are called and what they do for your plants:

    • Potassium Nitrate

    This compound is a source of Potassium and nitrogen for your plants. Nitrogen is vital for chlorophyll production and photosynthesis. It promotes the health and growth of the above-ground parts of the plant.

    Potassium is essential for the transport of substances within the plant as well as for the process of photosynthesis. It maintains a plant’s resilience and strengthens it at a cellular level.

    • Potassium Phosphate

    Phosphorus is vital for healthy root development in plants and helps plants to store energy. It is also necessary for successful photosynthesis and to promote vigor and resilience in plants.

    • Magnesium Sulfate

    Magnesium and sulfur are secondary macronutrients which means that they are needed in lower quantities than nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium(NPK). They are still essential in the planted aquarium for healthy growth though.

    Magnesium is the most important component of chlorophyll, and without it, photosynthesis would not be possible. Sulfur is also necessary for chlorophyll formation and allows plants to make use of nitrogen.

    Magnesium sulfate is an optional macro for the EI method, but is useful if you have very soft water as it can be effective in boosting GH. It is also a good idea to dose magnesium sulfate if you use reverse osmosis(RO) water.

    Micro-nutrients For Plant Growth

    Micronutrients are trace elements that are also essential for healthy plants but needed in much smaller amounts than macronutrients. The most important trace elements are:

    • Iron
    • Zinc
    • Manganese
    • Molybdenum
    • Copper

    You can use Plantex CSM+B as your source of trace elements or use a liquid product like Seachem Flourish.

    Seachem Flourish Trace

    A great aquarium fertilizer for getting essential trace elements into your planted tank. Readily available in stores

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    Dosing Equipment

    Apart from a collection of dry fertilizer powders, you need very little equipment to use the EI method. The dry fertilizers themselves will need to be measured pretty accurately. A set of small measuring spoons and a scale will come in handy for this, although you can get by using just a teaspoon.

    You can dose the dry fertilizers directly into the water column, or if you prefer, you can also mix them into a liquid solution. If you prefer to make liquid solutions, some small bottles and a funnel will come in handy. For large aquarium, it could make sense to investing in a dosing system.

    Aquarium Lighting

    The dosage values that are recommended for the EI method were developed for plants grown under very high light. While you will get the best results in high light tanks, you don’t need to have extremely high light.

    Low light tanks, however, will not benefit from this system if you are adding way more nutrients than the plants can use due to limited photosynthesis potential.

    CO2 Injection

    To achieve optimum plant growth by using the EI method, you will need to run a carbon dioxide injection system in your tank. You should aim for a CO2 concentration of no more than 30ppm to ensure the safety of your livestock.

    The most reliable way to achieve stable levels is to use pressurized CO2 with a drop checker and a bubble counter. A diffuser will be necessary to make this vital gas easily available to your plants.

    CO2 is only used by your plants during photosynthesis, and this means that your system should only run while your lights are on. It does take a little while for the gas to build up to optimum levels though, so the best thing to do is run your pressurized injection system on a separate timer that starts up about 2 hours before the lights go on, and then shuts off when the lights go out.

    Filtration For The Planted Aquarium

    In a planted aquarium with high light and excess nutrients in the water column, excellent filtration becomes very important. This is because the filter is not only necessary for processing uneaten fish food and fish waste as in a traditional fish tank.

    In such a high-energy planted aquarium, the plant material can also be a source of ammonia. Wet/dry filters and canister filters tend to be the best options for this type of setup. OASE Biomasters are great filters to consider.

    Water Hardness

    For the EI system to be effective, you will need a carbonate hardness of at least 3-5 ยฐKH and a general hardness of about the same. This usually is not a problem if using tap water, but if you use reverse osmosis(RO) water in your tanks, or your area has naturally soft water, you will need to remineralize the water.

    How To Dose With This Method

    One of the major differences between the EI method and other feeding routines is the high frequency of application. This is a hands-on approach that requires you to dose daily and dose consistently.

    If you cannot commit to dose daily, 2-3 times a week is also acceptable though. The idea is that your plants do much better with a constant supply of nutrients, rather than the occasional boost.

    A typical EI routine consists of dosing macro-nutrients, and micro-nutrients (trace elements) on alternate days for 6 days, then performing a water change on the 7th day.

    As an example, an EI schedule could look like this:

    • Monday: Dose macronutrients
    • Tuesday: Dose micronutrients (trace elements)
    • Wednesday: Dose macros
    • Thursday: Dose micros
    • Friday: Dose macros
    • Saturday: Dose Micros
    • Sunday: Perform 50% water change and dose a GH booster if using reverse osmosis (RO) water

    It is important to dose your macros and micros on separate days because when added together, the chemicals can interact in ways that make them unusable for your plants.

    Water Changes

    The usual advice is to perform a 50% weekly water change but you can also increase this up to 75% if you prefer. In a healthy and very large tank, you can even decrease your water changes to twice or even once a month. Ideally though, you want to follow a routine that is repeatable and reliably shows results.

    How To Perform A Water Change

    For aquarists, water changes are just a fact of life. A 50% weekly water change might sound a little extreme, but they are necessary to ‘reset’ your nutrient concentrations. Under the high energy growth conditions associated with high lighting and CO2 injection, high levels of ammonia (and therefore nitrates) are produced.

    When performing your weekly water change, be sure to turn off your equipment like filters and heaters. You can use this opportunity to vacuum the substrate and carpet plants to remove any physical waste in the tank. This is also a great time to trim your plants and siphon out all the trimmings so that they do not rot in your tank.

    When the time comes to refill, try to make sure that the water you add to the tank is as close as possible to the temperature of the water still in the tank. This will minimize any temperature shock on your livestock. You should also condition your tap water to neutralize any harmful chemicals it might contain.

    EI vs PPS

    Now that you know what the EI system is and what it is used for, you may be wondering if there are other systems that can be used. You might have heard of another popular fertilizing technique called the Perpetual Preservation System, but the two are really very different.

    While the EI method intentionally overdoses by providing the maximum possible amount of nutrients that a plant can use, the PPS system attempts to dial in the numbers and limit any excess nutrients in the water column.

    Essentially, EI is designed to maximize plant growth and accepts that major water changes will be necessary to reset the water parameters and maintain a consistent nutrient level.

    PPS is not an attempt to create maximum plant growth, but rather to establish a system that is self-sustaining and does not require water changes.

    EI Aquarium Calculator

    While it is possible to calculate your dosages yourself, it is much easier to use this dedicated online EI calculator. Go ahead and play around with this calculator to help you understand the sort of amounts of each nutrient you will need to add on a daily and weekly basis for your aquarium size.

    FAQs

    What is EI?

    Estimated Index is a fertilization system developed by Tom Barr in the 1990s that is designed to promote maximum plant growth in aquarium plants. The idea is to provide the maximum nutrient levels that the plants can potentially use, and maintain these levels continuously.

    How do I use dry fertilizer in my aquarium?

    Once you have measured the amount of dry fertilizer that you need to dose for the day, you can simply dissolve it in some tank water and then add it to your planted aquarium. You can even add the powder directly to the water.

    What is a perpetual preservation system?

    The perpetual preservation system(PPS) is a fertilizing system for the planted aquarium that attempts to minimize excess nutrients in the water column and make it possible to maintain a healthy tank that does not need water changes.

    What are macronutrients in aquarium plants?

    Macronutrients are the nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium that plants need in the largest amounts.

    Final Thoughts

    If you’re looking for the ultimate manual control over the plant growth in your aquarium, while preventing the dreaded algae bloom, the EI system is just what you’re looking for. This is a very hands-on method that is not suited to the casual aquarist or someone looking for a low-maintenance aquarium.

    If you have the time and the passion and want to grow your fully planted tank to its full potential, this is definitely a great solution for you!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Freshwater Aquarium Snails โ€“ 7 to Buy and 4 to Avoid

    Freshwater Aquarium Snails โ€“ 7 to Buy and 4 to Avoid

    Aquarium snails get a bad reputation that’s often undeserved โ€” some are genuinely excellent additions to a tank as part of a cleanup crew, while others are hitchhiker pests that reproduce fast enough to take over if you’re not careful. After 25 years in the hobby I’ve kept most of the popular species and dealt with the problem ones too, so I can give you a clear picture of which snails are worth adding intentionally and which you should avoid or remove. This guide covers 7 species worth keeping and 4 to steer clear of.

    Good Vs. Bad?

    What makes a good and a bad aquarium snail? Well, there are good and bad sides to most of the snails in the aquarium hobby. Many aquarists think of snails as fascinating pets that can be both beautiful and useful in the aquarium. Others don’t like them at all, especially when they find their way into the tank by accident and seem to take over!

    Let’s take a look at some of the pros and cons of keeping these tank cleaners in your aquarium.

    Pros

    1. Snails do an excellent job of cleaning up leftover fish food and waste in the tank. They are the captains of the clean-up crew!

    2. Snails eat algae- freshwater snails can help to keep your tank’s glass, plants, ornaments, and substrate looking clean and beautiful.

    3. Some snails burrow into the substrate. Digging through the substrate releases trapped gas and also takes nutrients down to where plants need them. Snails can also clean the surface layer of the substrate to keep your tank looking great.

    Cons

    1. When snails breed out of control, they can actually add to the bioload of your aquarium, causing your tank to become overstocked and go out of balance.

    2. It’s pretty rare, but some freshwater snails will feed on living plants.

    3. A huge overpopulation of snails can look bad, and they can stick to the glass and leave snail eggs all over the tank too.

    As long as you manage the cons, just about any aquarium snail can be a ‘good’ snail. That being said, certain species of snails do make much better choices than others.

    The 7 Best Freshwater Aquarium Snail Species

    There is quite a variety of snails available in the hobby at the moment, so choosing the right species for your tank can be a bit of a challenge.

    In this article, I’m introducing the most popular types of freshwater aquarium snails and providing you with the most important information about them like:

    Although there are several species of snails available in the aquarium trade, these are the best species for planted tanks in particular. I consider these 7 types of snails to be the best options for most aquariums though, and they are great as species for community tanks as well. Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into further detail below. If you like our content, subscribe to us! You can use this information to help you decide which type of snail is best for your aquarium.

    Let’s jump right in and meet these slow-moving aquatic friends!

    1. Horned Nerite

    • Scientific Name: Clithon corona
    • Size: 1 inch
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0-8.2
    • Tank Size: 5+ gallons

    Horned nerite snails are fascinating aquarium snails that come in a variety of colors and patterns. They are easily identified by the projections (horns) on the shell.

    The color of their shells is pretty variable but often they have a cool black and yellow striped look. These snails eat algae and are great scavengers for freshwater aquariums.

    Like other popular aquarium snails from the Neritidae family, these animals live in freshwater but need brackish water to breed. These peaceful snails are perfect for aquascapes because they do not eat live plants.

    2. Zebra Nerite

    • Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis
    • Size: 1 inch
    • Origin: South Africa, Mozambique, Tanzania, Kenya, Somalia
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Tank size: 5+ gallons

    Zebra nerite snails are one of the best aquatic snails for your planted aquarium. These animals look amazing and get their name from their beautiful striped shells.

    It’s not only their looks that make them so great though, but they are also amazing algae eaters!

    Nerite snails cannot breed in freshwater and rely on brackish water to reproduce. For this reason, you’ll never have to worry about this species overpopulating your freshwater aquarium.

    3. Tiger Nerite

    • Scientific Name: Vittina semiconica
    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Tank size: 5+ gallons

    Like the zebra nerite, tiger nerites won’t bother live plants or breed in your tank. These snails have a really cool golden orange shell with rows of interesting black markings.

    They do occasionally lay eggs, but these aren’t going to hatch in a freshwater tank. Nerite snails are excellent algae eaters and they do a fantastic job of keeping the tank clean.

    4. Malaysian Trumpet

    Trumpet-Snail
    • Scientific Name: Melanoides tuberculata
    • Size: 1 inch
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Tank size: 3+ gallons

    Malaysian Trumpet Snails are a species that many fishkeepers think of as pest snails. If you look at some of their benefits, however, it’s clear that there’s more to these crawling creatures!

    They are burrowing snails that are great for managing the substrate at the bottom of your tank. All that burrowing prevents the build-up of toxic gases and helps to work nutrients into the soil which actually benefits the plants.

    These animals aren’t for everyone though. Malaysian trumpet snails breed fast, are ultra-tough, and can be very difficult to remove, so think carefully before introducing them to your tank.

    5. Mystery

    Mystery-Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Size: 2 inches
    • Origin: Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6-8.4
    • Tank size: 5+ gallons

    Mystery Snails are awesome cleaners that will eat any leftover food in the aquarium. They are large snails but are super peaceful and work great in shrimp tanks. Mystery snails are also known as Gold Inca snails.

    Mystery snails can be bred in the aquarium, but unlike other types of snails, their eggs must be laid outside of the water. This requirement, together with the fact that you need a male and female to breed, means they are easy to control and won’t multiply unless you make it possible.

    6. Rabbit

    • Scientific Name: Tylomelania spp.
    • Size: 2-4 inches
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 76-84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.2-8
    • Tank size: 30+ gallons

    Rabbit snails look kind of like a jumbo Malaysian trumpet snail. The head of this species resembles a rabbit’s head, and that’s where they get their name.

    There are several species of rabbit snails available. These big snails come in a few cool color morphs and won’t multiply like trumpet snails. Although it isn’t usually a problem, rabbit snails have been reported to feed on some aquarium plants like Java Ferns.

    These snails are great for cleaning up the tank and also keep the substrate healthy by burrowing. Because they grow pretty big, these snails are best for larger fish tanks of 30 gallons or more.

    7. Ivory

    Ivory-Ranch
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Size: 2 inches
    • Origin: Brazil, Bolivia, Paraguay, Peru
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6-8.4
    • Tank size: 5+ gallons

    If you like Mystery Snails, but want something a little more exotic for your planted tank, the Ivory Snail might be the perfect option for you. These awesome-looking snails are the same species as the regular Mystery Snail but have been bred to have pure cream-white shells and pale white bodies with pink and orange markings.

    Ivory Snails also have all the same great benefits for your tank as the regular Mystery Snail. These active snails will search your tank for algae and uneaten fish food and are completely peaceful with their tankmates.

    The 4 To Avoid

    The species in this list tend to be those unwanted snails that aquarists try to get rid of. They do have their positive sides, so I’m not calling them straight-up villains here.

    Instead, you are recommended to be very cautious about adding them to your tank and rather try out some of the other snails listed above. You see our video below if you want to see these snails in action. Please subscribe to our YouTube channel if you like content like this.

    1. Bladder

    Bladder-Snail
    • Scientific Name: Physa acuta
    • Size: 1/2 inch
    • Origin: Uncertain
    • Temperature: 64-84ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Tank size: 3+ gallons

    Bladder snails (video source) are a freshwater snail species that many aquarists have in their tanks. However, these snails aren’t usually added to fish tanks by choice!

    These distinctive-looking snails have the ability to breed fast, and since they are hermaphroditic, you only need one to start a colony. Bladder Snails don’t dig and they breathe air from the surface, although they spend most of their time cruising around on surfaces in your tank.

    They feed on algae, waste, and uneaten food but do not damage plants. They will feed on damaged or dead plant matter, however.

    2. Ramshorn

    Ramshorn-Snail
    • Scientific Name: Planorbarius duryi
    • Size: 1 inch
    • Origin: USA
    • Temperature: 60-80ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0-7.5
    • Tank size: 5+ gallons

    Ramshorn snails often find their way into aquariums accidentally on new plants. They are one of the most common pest snails in the aquarium trade.

    Ramshorn snails are very peaceful but breed freely, which can be pretty annoying if you never planned on having them in the first place. Ramshorn snails are hard workers in freshwater aquariums, however, and have awesome multicolored spiraled shells.

    They are not fussy about food and are happy to scavenge and feed on uneaten fish food. They will also eat algae but do not feed on live plants. They are known for eating black beard algae.

    3. Assassin

    • Scientific Name: Clea helena
    • Size: 1-2 inches
    • Origin: Thailand, Indonesia, Malaysia
    • Temperature: 75-80ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Tank size: 29+ gallons

    Assassin Snails are the cannibals of the snail world. These carnivorous mollusks feed on other snails, so most aquarists keep them to help control the population of pest snails in their tanks.

    For that purpose, they are great, but if you like your snails, avoid introducing assassins to your tank! Although it is rare, they will sometimes feed on freshwater shrimps in the aquarium as well.

    Usually, however, they will only feed on dead or dying shrimps, and even dead fish. If you don’t have other snails, you can still keep this species if you provide them with a high protein sinking food like bloodworms.

    4. Apple

    Golden-Apple-Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomecea canaliculata
    • Size: 2-3 inches
    • Origin: Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay, Bolivia, and Argentina
    • Temperature: 65-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Tank size: 10+ gallons

    Apple snails (image source) have crawled onto this list of snails to avoid for two reasons, they have a habit of eating live plants and they are invasive.

    To be fair, apple snails can make an interesting pet in tanks without any live plants, but they should be kept far away from your aquascapes.

    Apple snails have escaped captivity and become invasive in many parts of Asia and the Southeast of the USA. They will probably invade other parts of the world if they are allowed to, so please remember to be responsible and never release them (or any other aquarium plant or animal) into the wild.

    How To Care

    Most types of snails are really easy to care for and will thrive in your fish tank without any extra effort from you. They will do best in a healthy and stable environment though, so here’s some basic information on how to provide them with a great home.

    How To Set Up Your Tank

    Aquarium and pond snails can be kept in just about any tank size, although the larger species obviously need more space. Assassin snails, for example, will do best in larger tanks with more stable conditions.

    Good filtration is very important for keeping healthy aquariums. Although many snail species can survive in lower water quality conditions, running a good quality filter will keep the water looking and smelling pristine. Filtration is also super important if you plan on keeping other animals like shrimp and fish.

    To keep the water temperature stable in your aquarium, you will need to install an aquarium heater. Make sure you set your heater to a temperature that your species of snail is comfortable in. A thermometer is also very useful because it allows you to monitor the water temperature in your tank.

    Some types of snails, like nerites, for example, will often crawl out of the water and can easily escape your fish tank. Make sure you have a secure lid/hood over your tank to prevent them from escaping and getting lost or hurt.

    What To Feed Them

    Most aquarium snails will live happily in your aquarium without needing to be fed specifically. Here’s what they eat:

    • Uneaten fish food
    • Dead plant matter
    • Soft algae
    • Fish waste

    This makes keeping your snails happy and well-fed really easy. If you don’t have enough of those food sources available to your snails, you can also feed them some bottom feeder tablets, or even some blanched green vegetables.

    Providing an extra food source is definitely recommended if you keep a lot of algae-eating snails like nerites and they run out of food. If this happens, it is even possible to grow algae for them to eat.

    Where To Get Them

    Many fishkeeping stores have a few of the more common snails available for sale. For a great variety of cool aquarium snail species from an online fish store, I would suggest checking out Flipaquatics. The team at Flipaquatics takes great care of their stock to ensure your new pets arrive in perfect shape.

    How To Avoid Introducing Nuisance Varieties To Your Aquarium

    Snails often find their way into aquariums, whether we introduce them intentionally or not! It is easy to prevent this from happening though, so let’s start by looking at how they sneak in.

    How Can They Get Into Your Tank?

    The first thing to note is that snails can get into your aquarium as adults, or as eggs. Any time you add something to your aquarium that has been in another aquarium, you run the risk of adding snails.

    This includes the tanks at your local fish store or even your friends’ tanks. Adding things to your tank from wild sources like ditches, lakes, or rivers is also a risk.

    Snails and their eggs are usually attached to new plants, ornaments, gravel, or basically anything from another tank. Snails are really tough as well, so even if an object has been outside of a tank for some time, the snails can still survive.

    Another way that snails can arrive is when you introduce new fish to your tank. Sometimes a little gravel gets scooped up and bagged along with your new fish, and sometimes a snail or two can be part of the deal.

    Tips To Keep Them Out

    Adding new plants is one of the most common ways that pest snails are introduced to fish tanks. Before adding a new plant to your aquarium, check it thoroughly and rinse it off, removing any snails or eggs you might see.

    Next, prepare a bleach dip consisting of 1 part bleach to about 20 parts water. Dip soft plants in the solution for no more than a minute and firm plants for up to two minutes. Afterward, rinse the plants off carefully with conditioned water before planting them out.

    A much easier way to safely add new plants is to buy tissue culture specimens. These are plants that are carefully grown under special lab conditions to ensure that they are pest-free. They are not always easy to find, so check out online retailers like Buceplant for a great range.

    My Pick
    Buce Plant

    Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

    Click For More Info

    How To Get Rid Of Nuisance Varieties

    Before starting an all-out war with the snails in your tank, remember the great benefits they provide. Often, it’s best to keep them around but keep the numbers down to a reasonable level.

    Managing the snail population in your tank can be surprisingly easy if you understand this one simple truth about snails: the more food they have, the more they will breed! So how do you reduce the amount of food available to the snails?

    Reducing Their Food Supply

    Well, start by making sure you are not overfeeding your fish. If there’s limited food for the snails, their numbers will stay stable.

    It is very important to maintain good water quality in your tank by performing regular water changes and tank maintenance. This is the best way to keep the nutrient levels low in the water.

    Another great way to reduce the nutrients in your aquarium is to grow fast-growing aquarium plants that will soak up excess nutrients and turn them into healthy new leaves!

    Physical Removal

    Here’s a great tip for actively managing the snail numbers in your tank: you can bait them with algae wafers or even a piece of lettuce or some other leafy green.

    Set the bait into a small dish on the bottom of the tank, and weigh it down so that the snails can access it. Leave the dish in the tank overnight, and remove it the next morning when it is crawling with snails!

    Introduce Assasin Species

    Introducing another species of freshwater aquarium snail to your tank might seem like a terrible way to reduce your pest snail population. Assassin snails are one kind of animal that can really help though because they eat other snails.

    Fish That Will Eat Them

    Whether you want to keep your pet snails safe from hungry fish, or are looking for a way to remove unwanted pests from your aquarium, knowing which species of fish eat snails is very useful! The following fish species are notorious snail-eaters that can help remove pest snails from your tank.

    Fish That Are Compatible with Them

    For the snail-lovers out there, it can be devastating to see your pets eaten by their tank mates. Fortunately, most peaceful community fish will get along fine with snails, as long as they prefer the same water parameters.

    Smaller nano fish are usually a safer bet than larger fish, and shrimp are also great tank mates. Fish have a mind of their own of course, and there are no 100% guarantees, but as long as you avoid the fish listed above, your snails should be safe.

    FAQS

    Are they good for your fish tank?

    Snails provide a bunch of great benefits for your tank. Apart from the few species that feed on plants, snails are usually a hardworking member of your clean-up crew.

    How big do they get?

    The maximum size of aquarium snails varies hugely, depending on their species. Bladder snails, for example, only measure about 1/2 an inch across, while mystery snails can reach golf ball size!

    Can you have a tank of just them without any fish?

    Sure, if you’re interested in keeping snails only, there’s nothing wrong with that. You can add a few live plants and a basic filter and you will have a very interesting invert tank.

    How do I know what kind I have?

    Most of the common aquarium snails are pretty easy to identify once they have reached full size. The color, markings, and shape of the shell, as well as the color and form of the body, are the best way to identify these creatures.

    How long do they live?

    The lifespan of aquarium snails varies, depending on their species and how healthy their water parameters are. You can expect most types of aquarium snails to live at least 1 to 3 years.

    Final Thoughts

    Love them or hate them, aquarium snails are something that most aquarists and fishkeepers will come across sooner or later. Some might be pests, but many of them are very cool additions to community tanks and planted aquariums.

    Whether you’re looking to add new snails to your tank or get rid of them, I hope this guide helps you out! Please comment below if you have any questions.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • 5 Best 125 Gallon Aquariums โ€“ From Someone Who Actually Runs One

    5 Best 125 Gallon Aquariums โ€“ From Someone Who Actually Runs One

    I run a 125 gallon reef tank myself, so this is a size I know intimately. At 125 gallons, you’re making a serious commitment โ€” the tank, stand, filtration, lighting, and livestock all add up quickly, and the weight alone (over 1,200 lbs fully loaded) means floor reinforcement is something you need to actually think about. The upside is that a 125 gallon gives you the stability and display space to do something truly spectacular. This guide covers the best 125 gallon aquarium options I’d recommend and everything you need to consider before committing to this size.

    Our Criteria (How They Made The Cut)

    Before I go through a list, I like to explain my criteria for selection first. Here is what I focused on when I made this list:

    • Features – Aquariums of this size usually are going to be more than just the aquarium. I like all in one systems as it eliminates a lot of guesswork
    • Build – I look for aquariums that have a good manufacturing process. If they are rimless, they should have a solid warranty and reputation. If they aren’t, they should have proper braces and quality reviews
    • Dimensions – A 125 gallon tank can be 4 or 6 feet. I prefer to include both on this list so you can make the decision to what fits you fit. Generally, the shorter format will have better dimensions for scaping and will be cheaper with equipment due to lighting and pump costs. The longer format will generally be better for fish.

    The 125 Gallon Aquarium Candidates

    In A Hurry? I recommend Red Sea Reefers for Saltwater and UNS Aquariums for Freshwater!

    PictureNameTypeLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Red Sea Reefer 425 XL
    Red Sea Reefer 425 XL
    • Reef Ready
    • All In One
    • Saltwater
    Click For Best Price
    Budget Option
    SC Aquariums 120
    SC Aquariums 120
    • Reef Ready
    • Euro Braced
    • Great Dimensions
    Buy On Amazon
    UNS 120U UNS 120U
    • Rimless
    • Best For Freshwater
    Click For Best Price
    Planet Aquariums 125 Planet Aquariums 125
    • Rimless
    • Made in the USA
    Click For Best Price
    Top Fin 125 Ensemble Top Fin 125 Ensemble
    • Cheap
    • Best For Freshwater
    Buy On PetSmart

    Top 5 Picks (2023)

    Let’s look at each aquarium and see why they made the cut!

    1. Red Sea Reefer 425 XL

    Editor’s Choice
    Red Sea Reefer 425 XL

    The newest generation Red Sea Reefers offer a great all in one system for anyone looking for a saltwater aquarium

    Click For Best Price

    The Red Sea Reefer 425XL is an excellent top of line rimless aquarium that comes with a sump and overflow. It is the aquarium that started up the ready to run craze in the saltwater tank hobby. It is designed to run as a reef tank. Red Sea really prides itself with their manufacturing process, which you can see below.

    This 425 XL model is wider than the standard reefer models, giving you more space for scaping. The piping is already assembled for you and requires no gluing. The sump design is also very efficient.

    Red-Sea-Reefer-Sump

    What I like is they place the ATO reservoir at the top of the sump. This saves space and gives you ample room on the opposite side of the cabinet to mount your gear and store your equipment. Anyone who has owned a high level reef tank knows how gadget crazy we can get and how obsessed we can get about mounting equipment for that cool look.

    Red Sea Reefers are expensive, but they look great and have everything you need to get started on the right foot.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great Brand
    • ATO Container saves space
    • Easy to assemble
    Cons
    • Price
    • Designed for reef tanks only

    2. SC Aquariums 120

    SC Aquariums 120

    The SCA while not a 125 gallon is the perfect dimensions for a 4 foot long tank. 24 inches high and wide gives it plenty of space for scaping and fish

    Buy On Amazon

    SC Aquariums is well know in the reefing circles as a bang for the buck ready to run aquarium. They offer low iron aquariums, which are more clear than traditional braced tanks and they come with an overflow and plumbing kit to get you started. They are usually priced significantly cheaper than big brands like Red Sea and Waterbox.

    This variant in the link is just the aquarium. You can also purchase the stand and sump as a package from SC. The sump is a rimless three stage sump and the cabinet is equivalent to Marineland’s Monterey Stands.

    SC Aquariums is a small business and the owner Steve takes customer service seriously. You will feel you are dealing with a person versus a company when purchasing from SC. They have a nice personal touch to their customer service. There is also a facebook community of owners you can connect with.

    Overall, this is a great budget option if you are looking for a ready to run aquarium. Many reefers have used these tanks and have killer reef tanks. You can’t go wrong with them!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Cheap for a reef safe tank
    • Good reputation in industry
    • Good customer service
    Cons
    • Not rimless
    • Cabinet only available in black

    3. UNS 120U

    UNS 120U

    The UNS 120 is a premium rimless aquarium that is designed for freshwater aquascapers

    Click For Best Price

    If you are looking to create a large aquascape aquarium, look no further than UNS. UNS aquariums are some of the best pure rimless aquariums you can purchase today. They have a world class manufacturing process with 45 degree precision cut mitered edges for their glass that are put together with high-grade silicone. The glass is low iron with 91% Diamant glass. This glass is used in commercial applications like office buildings and restaurants.

    This particular model is a 4 foot aquarium that is nearly 24 inches tall and wide. This is the perfect width and height for aquascaping and gives plenty of space for a large number of schooling fish or for larger fish like Angelfish to be part of the aquascape. The clear background also gives it better aesthetics for a planted tank over a reef ready system that will often come with a black background.

    It’s not best to picture this tank if you are looking for a saltwater setup and the price can be up there. However, if you are looking for a large aquascape tank, this is the one to buy.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Get quality
    • Clear background
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Best for freshwater

    4. Planet

    Planet Aquariums 125 Premium Reef

    Plant Aquarium stands are a prebuilt tanks that include a sump and overflow. Made in the USA!

    Click For Best Price

    If you go to a local fish store, you may see these type of aquariums. These are manufactured by Planet Aquariums and they often work with local fish stores to provide high quality reef ready tanks. Recently, they have been selling online due to the pandemic. They are made in the USA and offer multiple color options on their cabinets.

    This is a rimless tank with a slim overflow design that has a bean animal drain. The sump is one of the best offered in a reef ready package. The Tideline sump is a high end arcylic aquarium sump with a lot of cool factor designed in it. They are designed for 7″ filter socks and can adjust for water height and is a 3 stage sump.

    Tideline Sump

    The overall package that you get by going with a Planet Aquarium is a really great value. However, it’s still out of the range of many reefers given it’s a high end offering. It’s really nice you can order them online now though. It really gets the sales pressure off when you don’t have to walk into a local fish store to purchase one.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Lots of cabinet options
    • Slim overflow design
    • Made in the USA
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Slow shipping time

    5. Top Fin

    Top Fin 125 Ensemble

    This 125 is PetSmart’s value offering. It is one of the best deals you can get buying new at this size.

    Click For Best Price

    If you are shopping for an entry level 125 gallon tank, this offering by Top Fin might be what you are looking for. This is one of the cheapest tank setups you can purchase at this size. It is a 6 foot long tank that offers plenty of space for larger fish.

    The cabinet, when it is setup with the correct filter, is a good value with this package. I don’t like how there is a shelf in the middle because it limits space for larger canister filters or a sump. You usually want your storage inside the cabinet not outside. While it’s a nice aesthetic touch, it’s not a practical one for a fish tank.

    The price can’t be beat and you can pick it up locally. The cabinet is not the best though. It is made of particle board, which is not a good long-term decision if you run a sump or have a saltwater tank. I’m not a fan of rimmed tanks for something this large as well. For the price and how easy it is to pick up locally, it’s a setup to consider if you are on a budget at this size.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great price
    • 6 foot long tank
    • Easy to find locally
    Cons
    • Rimmed Tank
    • Low cabinet quality
    • Limited space in cabinet

    Buying Guide

    What Do You Want?

    Figuring out what type of fish you want in your 125 gallon tank will narrow down how much you will spend and what type of equipment you will need to run and maintain it. Let go through several options. Do you have a particular fish or setup that fancies you? A goldfish vs. a saltwater tang have totally different needs and requirements. The same with freshwater vs. a saltwater tank or planted vs non-planted tanks. Go to places like forums, visit an aquarium club, or check out Pinterest and for inspiration on what you are looking for an go from there. I’ll outline a few things below to help out as well.

    Budget Concerns

    Budget is always a factor when it comes to keeping an aquarium. The budget differences in this size, however, are greater than 2 and 4 foot long tanks. Going from a fish only to a aquascape or reef tank adds a lot more investment to your setup and maintenance costs. Expect to spend about $45 per gallon for a reef tank and about $10 – $30 per gallon for a freshwater tank. You can go less if you buy a used tank or make your own stand (or even have one made for you by a carpenter or friend). Fish only systems will cost the least while planted tanks and reef tanks will cost the most.

    Equipment Investment

    When you get to aquariums over 100 gallons, you usually start looking at higher end filtration systems to run your tank regardless if your goal is fish only, a planted tank, or reef tank. This has to do with the amount of bioload these tanks will be handling.

    For a freshwater tank, you will want to consider a canister filter. These filters will have a large amount of media capacity and will keep your tank more stable than other systems. You also won’t be placing large hang on back filters on the aquarium and adding ugly pieces of equipment, which become more noticeable at this size.

    For a saltwater tank, you will want to consider an aquarium sump. The good thing with these aquariums is even if you get a standard rimmed tank, they are easy to drill. If you decide to drill the tank, you can purchase an overflow. You can also install a hang-on overflow, though a drilled overflow are generally more reliable.

    Aquarium lighting will also become a factor. As a 6 foot format, you will likely need 3 light fixtures if you get a pendant style system or find a lighting system that has a 72″ option – which is usually hard to find. If you are looking for a 72″ option, Current USA offers a great option for both freshwater and saltwater tanks.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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    Maintenance

    A 125 gallon aquarium is going to be one of the more maintenance intensive aquariums you can purchase. The water changes are larger, the amount of glass you need to clean is more, and if you do a planted tank you will be pruning more. For saltwater tanks, you get into other investments like dosing pumps, which may be required to maintain LPS and SPS corals if that is the route you want to go.

    Maintenance costs will also go up with a 125 gallon tank. If you run a saltwater tank, you will be using more salt and more RODI water to run it. A freshwater tank will be much cheaper in the long run and will generally take less time to maintenance. Keep this in mind when figuring out how much maintenance you can commit to.

    Different Types

    Rimless vs Rimmed

    Rimmed Tank With Kids

    Rimless vs rimmed tanks becomes a big consideration at this size. A 125 gallon tank is a sizable footprint. Not only do rimmed tanks have a plastic rim that can distract from the aesthetics of the aquarium, but the glass matters more at this size given the thickness.

    Traditional rimmed tanks use a standard glass, which has a greenish hue to it. A rimless tank will usually be made of low iron glass, which will be more transparent and look cleaner as a display tank. Rimless tanks as a result, will be more expensive than traditionally braced tanks.

    It is up to you to decide if you want to want to spend the extra for the clarity and look. At this size, I feel it’s worth the extra price. The hue is noticeable when you get to 4 and 6 foot long tanks.

    Glass vs Acrylic

    Acrylic Panels

    Another consideration will be glass vs acrylic. There are pros and cons to both:

    • Glass is very difficult to scratch
    • Acrylic is much lighter
    • An acrylic tank will have the best clarity of any tank type
    • Glass are offered in rimless formats. Acrylic tanks have bracing
    • Glass can crack, acrylic is difficult to break
    • Acrylic is easier to drill than glass

    You will notice on this list that I did not put an acrylic tank. The reason why is the ones available online are pretty standard tanks. Usually when it comes to acrylic, you will need to special order one from a local fish store or have one custom made to get one that is reef ready or of high quality. If you want acrylic, seeing a dealer would be my recommendation.

    4 foot or 6 foot format

    6 Foot Long Tank

    A 125 gallon can be purchased in a 4 foot or 6 foot long format. The 4 foot format is typically going to be 120 gallons, but it is close enough in my mind to include this in the discussion. There are advantages to both sides that I will list below:

    • The 4 foot format will have 24 x 24 height and width, the ideal dimensions for aquascaping
    • A 4 foot tank will generally be cheaper to setup due to needing to purchase less lighting fixtures and substrate
    • There are more options to purchase reef ready and ready to run aquariums in a 4 foot format over a 6 foot long tank
    • The 6 foot format is longer, which gives you more options for fish and spreads out space for more territorial fish
    • You can place a larger sump in a 6 foot long tank as a 48 inch sump works great
    • You will have more room to store storage in a 6 foot long tank

    If you are purchasing a 125 gallon tank primarily for fish, I would recommend that you purchase the 6 foot format. If your goals are a reef tank or a great looking freshwater aquascape, consider the 120 gallon 4 foot format.

    Best Options

    Let’s discuss what are the best setups for a 125 gallon aquarium. It’s a size that isn’t for everyone, but for those who are looking at this size, we can discuss what types of aquarium setups suit this size best.

    Aquascape

    An Aquascape Aquarium at 125 gallon is an incredible display tank. It is typically not seen at the 6 foot format as many aquascape will cap out around 4 feet in length. However, for those looking at this length, you can build a beautiful scape and your fish options really open up. Angelfish and Discus Fish are ideal for a tank of this size.

    African Cichlid Tanks

    African Cichlids are territorial and need space. The length of a 125 gallon lends well to curbing aggression. African Cichlid tanks do not need to be high, so the shorter height works well for this setup.

    Predator Tanks

    A freshwater predator with fish like Oscars can be housed in a 125 gallon tank. You don’t need a fancy setup with predators so going with a standard rimmed 125 works really well. Keep in mind the total size of the fish you get. You will not be able to keep many as they get large and are also territorial. These are also really good tanks if you have a very aggressive fish like a wolf cichlid that is best off housed alone and you can’t afford to provide it enough space to curb it’s aggression. Usually lack of space and territory enhances an already aggressive fish.

    Reef Tank

    A 125 gallon tank is an entry level aquarium at the 6 foot size for a reef tank. It really opens up the fish possibilities when you jump into a 6 foot long tank. Tangs and many angelfish become a possibility. You can be more liberal with more territorial fish given the size and the size of fish you can purchase. While not as deep and wide as a 180 gallon tank, you still have plenty of room to scape your tank and have plenty of corals at multiple levels. It’s usually better to go with a bit more height if you are planning more SPS Corals. The height for a 125 lends better to softy, LPS, and mixed reef tanks.

    FAQs

    How Big Is This Type of Tank?

    A 125 gallon tank will usually have a 6 foot long length or a 4 foot format. When filled up, they can easily weigh over 1400 lbs. They should be placed in an area that can support its weight, preferably on the first floor or a basement. You should also have an outlet dedicated to it and a good breaker box with 15 or 20 amp circuit breaker. A 20 amp is preferable if you are going to run a high end reef tank.

    What Are The Dimensions?

    A standard 125 gallon aquarium will have the dimensions of 72″ x 18″ x 21″ (LWH). If you purchase a 125 gallon in a 4 foot format the dimensions will be 48″ x 24″ x 24″. If purchased in a cube format the dimensions will be 36″ x 24″ x 36″. This cube format is 134 gallons.

    How Many Fish Can I Put In A Tank This Size?

    The number of fish you can put in a 125 gallon will depend on your setup and what type of fish you want to keep. For freshwater tanks, I would recommend checking out aqadvisor and running through their calculator. I don’t feel their saltwater tool is that great though. For saltwater it does depend on the fish, but generally 1 inch for every 5 gallons is the rule of thumb for saltwater. This is about 25 inches of fish which will get you about 5-6 fish that average 5 inches in length.

    You can go higher with saltwater, but it you usually run into aggression issues as saltwater fish as a whole are more territorial. Most saltwater fish keeper mix in corals to make up for the lack of fish population.

    What Size Sump Is Necessary For This Size Tank?

    You have plenty of options with a 125 fish tank regarding a sump. Most aquarium sumps you can buy will be at 36 inches and should fit in your cabinet. 48 inch sumps are hard to come across, however, if you make a DIY sump a 55 gallon aquarium is a perfect sump in a 125 gallon tank. It is 4 feet long and holds plenty of water. It’s my usual go to when it comes to this size.

    What Size Heater Is Necessary?

    Based on the info I provided in my best aquarium heater article, 375 watts is what you will need. It is best to run two heaters for this size and to pair it will a quality heater controller or aquarium controller to prevent failure.

    Closing Thoughts

    Youโ€™ve done your homework and you know what you want, but the sheer size of a 125 gallon aquarium can be intimidating. I hope I helped steer you in the right direction on planning for this investment by providing some helpful tips. Leave a comment below to share how I have been able to assist with your fish tank setup as well as any questions or concerns that arise during your research process! Thanks for reading!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Aquascape Aquarium โ€“ What It Is and How To Get Started (Full Guide)

    Aquascape Aquarium โ€“ What It Is and How To Get Started (Full Guide)

    Aquascaping is one of the most creatively rewarding things you can do in this hobby โ€” it’s where fishkeeping meets art. I’ve been setting up planted tanks for over 25 years, and I still find the aquascaping side endlessly compelling. Whether you want a lush Nature Aquarium layout, a minimal Iwagumi, or a dramatic Dutch style, the fundamentals are the same: understanding how to work with hardscape, plants, light, and flow to create something that looks like a slice of nature. This guide is your starting point for getting into aquascaping the right way.

    What Is An Aquascape Aquarium?

    Aquascaping is an art, a passion, and a science all rolled into one fascinating pastime. Essentially aquascaping is a form of gardening and fishkeeping, in 3 dimensions, all within the four walls of the aquarium!

    It involves designing beautiful and aesthetically pleasing environments that mimic natural landscapes. The hobby has come a long way, and innovative pioneers have constantly experimented and worked towards the goal of more beautiful and awe-inspiring planted aquariums.

    Why Start Aquascaping?

    Aquascaping is a challenging and rewarding activity that many of us find completely addictive. There are no limits to how far you can go with this hobby.

    Many people start fishkeeping and move on to aquascaping. It calls for creativity and an artistic eye, as well as an understanding of biology.

    Aquascaping is a really absorbing hobby. You will learn through trial and error. It helps you to destress and forget all about life’s challenges, providing real serenity and relaxation.

    Amazingly, aquascaping also provides a connection with nature, even if your tank is in the living room of your apartment, high above the ground in a busy city. These are the reasons we aquascape!

    The History

    No discussion on the topic of aquascaping would be complete without explaining how it all started. For this, we have to pay tribute to the most important contributor to the hobby, Mr. Takashi Amano from Japan1.

    Takashi is legendary for popularizing the nature-style aquarium and making the hobby accessible with his books on aquascaping, and by displaying his tanks. He was a pioneer in our history and brought the zen like nature to aquascapes that you see today. He created incredible scapes. You can see an example of these scapes at the ADA Museum in Japan. Above is a video of Takashi and the ADA Museum (Video Source).

    He founded ADA (Aqua Design Amano) way back in 1984 and the innovative, high-quality products they developed are still produced and extremely popular in the hobby today.

    Design Concepts

    Designing the layout of your aquascape is all about following clues from nature, harnessing your creativity, and finding what suits your own eye. There are a few proven tips that help to create a space with a truly aesthetic appeal, however.

    I’ll run you through a brief introduction on some of these techniques that you can incorporate into your planning process.

    The Rule of Thirds

    The rule of thirds is a visual technique used in composing paintings, photography, and other art forms. Here’s a pro tip, it works amazing for aquascaping too!

    It works on the principle that the human eye finds features in a scene that are located slightly off-center the most appealing. The focal point positions that really catch our attention are combinations of the upper and lower, and left and right thirds of the scene. Here is a video below by Julian Discovers explaining the concept.

    Video Source

    If you have a smartphone, the grid mode in the camera settings is very useful for finding these areas of interest. Where the lines of the grid intersect is where you should create a focal point with things like dominant hardscape features, or interesting specimen plants.

    The Golden Ratio

    If you’re interested in the rule of thirds and want to look deeper into this visual technique, you need to understand the golden ratio. The golden ratio, or Fibonacci spiral, is a mathematical concept that can be expressed as 1:1.618. Here is a video below by Mark Denny explaining how the golden ratio works in photography.

    The rule of thirds is roughly based on this ratio. In a scene that follows this ratio, the form follows a smooth curve, similar to a rolling wave on the ocean, with the focal point being in the center of the wave, located near one of the intersections of the grid described above.

    Use Of Depth

    The aquascape is a 3-dimensional space, which means it is possible to create a sense of depth in the tank. A simple and effective way to enhance the feeling of depth is to slope the substrate from the front to the back.

    By sloping the bottom of the tank, and planting creatively, it is possible to make the tank look almost infinitely deep. Using low-growing aquarium plants in the front of the tank and progressing to taller plants in the middle ground and then tall plants in the background is another very effective way to create a sense of depth.

    Styles

    Although there are no rules or limits to the type of aquascapes you can create, there are a few popular freshwater aquascaping styles that are proven winners. If you’re new to aquascaping, basing your tank on one of these styles is a great way to start.

    Let’s take a quick look at these styles:

    • Dutch Aquarium
    • Jungle Style
    • Biotope
    • Nature Aquarium
    • Iwagumi
    • Ryoboku

    The Dutch Style

    Dutch Aquascape

    The Dutch aquarium is a very ordered style that appeals to more formal aquatic gardeners. Dutch-style aquascapes are all about the plants. This planted aquarium design focuses on the beauty of the plants and their arrangement, rather than trying to recreate nature.

    Hardscape features are less important in this aquascape style and often are not very visible at all. Dutch tanks are very heavily planted, with the different species arranged and grouped carefully to contrast and complement each other with different textures, colors, and shapes.

    The Biotope

    Video Source

    Biotope aquascapes are basically a way of recreating a scene from nature as accurately as possible. This could be a local pond or river bank near your house or a few square feet of the mighty Amazon river!

    Biotopes don’t only look like a tiny portion of a wild aquatic scene, they should also have the same kind of substrates, species of plants, and fish that would be found there.

    Some examples of popular biotopes include:

    • Hillstream
    • Amazon River
    • West African
    • Malaysian
    • Blackwater

    Jungle Style

    This type of aquascape is styled in the wild and chaotic manner of the jungle. It’s a lively design that needs plenty of planning but involves less maintenance in the long run since the plants are allowed the freedom to grow out in their natural way.

    Jungle-style aquascapes are full, busy tanks with tall, large-leaved plants and limited visible hardscape, mostly in the form of driftwood.

    The Nature Style

    Nature Style Aquarium Example

    The nature aquarium is the style popularized by Takashi Amano. It does not seek to mirror a natural scene quite as accurately as a biotope aquascape but rather to create a harmonious underwater world that is visually pleasing to the human eye.

    A key concept in the nature aquarium is the principle of Wabi-Sabi, which translates from Japanese as ‘perfection in imperfection’. The nature style aims to create an aesthetically pleasing aquascape that lies somewhere between the order of the Dutch-style planted tank and the untamed appearance of the Jungle aquascape.

    Iwagumi And Ryoboku

    The Iwagumi and Ryoboku style aquascapes are minimalist designs that have plenty of open space and place the most emphasis on the hardscape. In the case of the Iwagumi aquascape, the hardscape is made up of a carefully arranged rock formation.

    Usually, an odd number of main stones and smaller stones are used and each has its own significance and name. Carpeting plants are the most important plant component used in Iwagumi style aquascapes.

    The Ryoboku is similar to the Iwagumi style but uses wooden elements like driftwood as the central focus that the aquascape is built around.

    How To Set Up

    Aquascaping is a long-term hobby, and the most important part of setting up an aquascape is planning! Try not to be tempted to rush the planning and jump into setting up too quickly.

    When it comes to aquascaping, the planning process is actually fascinating and loads of fun, so take your time with it!

    Let’s take a look at the basic elements of any aquascaped aquarium:

    The Tank

    Many aquascape aquariums will use a rimless tank these days. These tanks have low iron aquarium glass that has better clarity than traditional glass. In an aquarium where looks are everything, a well designed rimless tank really helps with the look. Standard braced tanks can look old fashioned and tuned down with the hue on the glass. If you are getting really serious about aquascaping, consider a rimless with iron low glass. UNS aquariums is one of the best out there.

    Editor’s Choice!
    UNS Ultra Clear Tanks

    Editor’s Choice!

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    Hardscape

    The hardscape is the cornerstone of any beautiful aquascape. It is the foundation and the backbone of your layout, so make sure you spend plenty of time experimenting with different materials and arrangements.

    As the name suggests, the hardscape is made out of hard materials. These are usually either wood or rock. You can also use aquarium ornaments as part of your aquascape, but be careful to keep the tank looking as natural as possible for a really great aquascape.

    You can collect your own materials, but not just any rocks or wood will work in an aquarium. To start out, I would suggest using these materials:

    • Dragon stone
    • Lava rock
    • Seiryu stone
    • Petrified wood
    • Spider wood
    • Pacific wood
    • Amazon wood

    Online retailers can stock an awesome range of hardscape materials that you can check out. One of the bigger frustrations for me personally is the lack of aquascaping specialized stores in the US. Online is the way to go!

    Editor’s Choice!
    Ohko Dragon Stone

    Editor’s Choice

    Ohko is the premier aquascaping rock today. Granite based with amazing shapes and selection

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    Substrate

    The substrate is another essential part of any aquascape. For the purpose of this article, the term substrate means the gravel/soil/sand at the bottom of the tank.

    Now, not all substrates are suitable for aquascaping, and the different varieties have different properties and uses. You should definitely avoid unnatural-looking substrates like multi-colored gravel, as this will not be aesthetically pleasing.

    The most simple way to categorize aquascape substrates would be between materials that contain nutrients and those that don’t. Let’s take a closer look at what this means:

    Active Soils

    Active soils are usually clay-based and contain the essential nutrients that plants need to grow. They can be expensive, but I would definitely recommend going this route if you want to be successful from the start. There are many great products on the market, including:

    Editor’s Choice!
    ADA Aqua Soil

    The Best Planted Tank Substrate

    The world’s standard in active substrates for planted tanks. Created by brand that founded modern aquascaping

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    Inert Substrates

    Inert substrates are materials that do not interact with the water by changing the pH or releasing minerals and nutrients. Plants will not get any nutrients from this kind of substrate so dosing a fertilizer, or using root tabs will be very important.

    Sand and gravel with varying grain sizes are the best examples of inert substrates. One of the best ways to use inert substrates is as a cap over the top of active soils. You can also use them as a decorative layer. Sand is a really good aesthetic enhancer in aquascapes to create trails and contrast.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Lighting

    Lighting in the aquascape serves two different functions. It makes the viewing experience better, and most importantly, it allows your plants to photosynthesize. The needs of your plants are definitely the first priority when choosing aquarium lighting.

    Not just any kind of light will work, so make sure you set up lighting specifically designed for growing aquatic plants. It needs to have the right strength and frequency for the size of your tank and the kinds of plants you want to grow. I find the Serene RGB as the most beginner friendly LED light on the market. You can grow just about anything with it and the price is very reasonable.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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    A good tip for beginners is to choose lighting that covers the minimum needs of your plants, rather than going overboard with very high lighting. Remember, with too much light, algae can easily get out of control, but without enough light, your plants will not grow to their full potential.

    Your lights will need to run on a timer that comes on automatically at the same time each day. Aquarists usually run 6-10 hours of light, with 8 hours being pretty ideal.

    The Importance of CO2

    CO2 (carbon dioxide) is the gas that plants use during photosynthesis. Without this gas, your plants simply can’t live and grow.

    CO2 is all around us and occurs naturally in your aquarium water. The natural concentration is enough for some plants to grow, but pretty much all plants will benefit from increased levels, and many types of plants won’t grow well at all without running a pressurized CO2 system.

    Pretty much all of the incredible and jaw-dropping aquascapes you will see run with injected CO2. Unfortunately, pressurized CO2 systems are expensive, but if you want to get serious about the hobby, start out in the right way with this investment. If are are shopping for an option, you can’t go wrong with CO2art. Check out my offer code ASD10%Off for an extra discount.

    The Ultimate CO2 Kit
    CO2Art Pro Elite Series Bundle

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    These systems allow you to run a stable and measured level of carbon dioxide. Levels of up to 30 ppm will promote incredible plant health and growth, while not affecting your fish and other livestock.

    That being said, there are many aquatic plants that you can grow without running CO2 in your tank, so with some careful planning and research, you can easily start out with a low-tech fish tank.

    Filtration

    Good filtration is hugely important in any aquarium. Planted aquascapes need very good filtration because both fish waste and rotting plant material can foul the water and cause dangerous ammonia spikes. There are a few different types of filters available in the hobby, and just about any style can be used.

    The best filter types for aquascapes are external filters because you really want to minimize the amount of hardware visible in the aquarium. The most popular styles are external hang-on back (HOB) filters and canister filters.

    Canister filters tend to be more expensive but allow the aquarist much greater control over the filter media selection, and most importantly, they can be kept out of sight in the cabinet below the aquarium.

    Plants

    Live plants are what really make an aquascape. Sure, you can create some beautiful hardscape layouts, but healthy plants are what bring the scene to life.

    Pretty much any kind of aquarium plant can be used in the aquascape. The texture of the foliage can have a big impact on the feel of the aquascape though. A nano aquarium with only large leaf plants can look even smaller than it is, so these plants should ideally be used in a larger aquarium.

    Small plants with fine leaves can be used to create a space that feels a lot larger, especially when the hardscape and substrate are arranged in ways that enhance this perception.

    There are an amazing variety of plants available in the hobby and I recommend a solid online retailer like BucePlant for buying new plants because they offer such a comprehensive range of healthy, high-quality stock.

    Let’s take a look at some of the most important types of plants for aquascapers.

    Stem Plants

    Stem plants are usually taller, fast-growing plants that take nutrients from the substrate and the water column. Stem plants are a very important component of Dutch aquascapes and usually work well as background plants. Some great examples include:

    Epiphytes And Mosses

    Epiphytes are plants that do not grow rooted in the substrate but are grown attached to the hardscape instead. Epiphytes tend to be slow-growing, and are great plants to start out with as they can be very easy to maintain.

    Mosses also grow attached to hardscape. Mosses like Java moss can also be left to float around the tank, although floating plants can look a little untidy in a carefully scaped aquarium.

    These kinds of plants work excellent in nature and jungle-style aquascapes. Great examples of this type of plant include:

    Grass/Carpet Plants

    Plants that cover the bottom of the tank like a lawn are usually known as carpeting plants in the hobby. These plants are characteristic of Iwagumi and Ryoboku style aquascapes, although they are also used in the foreground of Dutch aquascapes and nature aquariums.

    Growing an amazing carpet usually requires good light and CO2 injection. Some popular examples of these plants include:

    Fertilization

    All aquatic plants need nutrients to grow. Because aquariums are basically closed systems (apart from the fish food that you add) you will need to supply nutrients and trace elements to your plants in order for them to grow. These are added via aquarium fertilizers.

    Aquarium plants fall into two broad categories. They can be either root feeders, which gather the nutrients they need from the substrate or water column feeders that get everything they need from the water. Many plants species can also gather nutrients in both of these ways.

    Root feeders require an active aquarium soil to grow well. They can also be grown in inert substrates, but only if you use root tabs to provide nutrients to the root zone.

    Active aquarium soils don’t last forever either, and will eventually be completely leached out of nutrients. This kind of substrate is great at reabsorbing nutrients though so inserting a few root tabs will revive them.

    Water column feeders rely on the nutrients suspended in the water to feed. Fish food and waste do actually supply some of what these plants need, but you will also need to dose a high-quality aquarium fertilizer supplement like APT Complete to keep them growing at their best.

    Editor’s Choice!
    APT Complete

    Editor’s Choice

    Made by an aquascaper for aquascapers. This is the best all around aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. Marco and micronutrients in one bottle!

    Use Coupon Code ASDComplete for 10% off your order!

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    Dosage will depend on the product you use but generally, feeding at least once a day to once a week is recommended. When starting out, it’s best to follow the directions on the bottle and gauge from there. There are more advanced methods like the estimative index you can look into as you get more experience.

    Fish Selection

    Although fish are usually not the main attraction in amazing aquascapes, they will complete the package and add a sense of liveliness and activity to your underwater garden. Many aquascapers choose small fish which improves the sense of scale in the aquarium, making the scape look bigger.

    Choosing fish species that prefer cooler water of around 74ยฐF is recommended when starting out because higher temperatures tend to cause faster algae growth. The fish you choose to stock must, of course, be suited to the same parameters as the plants you grow. The best fish for most aquascapes are going to be nano fish. If you are in the market for nano fish, check out Flipaquatics for a great selection of fish for your aquascape, they quarantine all their livestock.

    Some popular species include:

    It is also a good idea to stock some species that can help with natural algae control like:

    Vegetarian or destructive fish should obviously be avoided because you don’t want your fish to rearrange your aquascape! The following species generally do not work well in aquascapes:

    Maintenance

    A lot of planning and work goes into setting up an amazing aquascape, but it doesn’t end there. Tank maintenance is hugely important to keep your carefully created aquascape looking amazing.

    Without going into too much detail, The following maintenance procedures should all be part of your regular schedule:

    • Water Changes- Aim for a 50% water change every week to start out. Make sure you dechlorinate the water before adding it to your tank. If you have water that is hard, you might want to considering buffering or investing in an RO system.
    • Glass Cleaning- Use an algae scraper or an old credit card to clean your glass. Be careful not to get any sand between the scraper and the glass as this will scratch the tank.
    • Plant Trimming- Trim your plants carefully with aquascaping scissors and remove all of the trimmings with a small fish net or siphon them out.
    • Test Water Parameters- Use a liquid test kit to monitor your water parameters.
    • Fertilizing- Feed your plants regularly to keep them healthy and growing.

    FAQS

    What is the meaning of it?

    Aquascaping involves creating and maintaining a living underwater environment. You can think of the word as a combination of aqua (water) and landscape.

    What plants are good for it?

    Almost all aquarium plants have a place in one aquascaping style or another. It really depends on your vision for the aquarium. Check out my care guides for more information on some of the best plants for planted tanks. I also have articles on beginner plants and low light plants.

    What is the function?

    Aquascaping has many functions. It is an incredible hobby that creates beauty in any space and provides a healthy living environment for the fish. Many aquascapers find the connection with nature that this hobby provides very fulfilling.

    How do you care for it?

    Aquascaping is not only about the creative process and the actual putting together of the aquarium. Maintenance is also a huge part of this hobby. Maintenance includes feeding and trimming the plants, keeping the tank and hardscape clean, and managing the water quality in the aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    Aquascaping is one of the most fascinating and absorbing hobbies out there. If you’re only just beginning your aquascaping journey, the information in this article will get you started in the right direction towards creating your very own beautiful underwater world. Have fun and feel free to ask any questions or comment below!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Acropora Coral Care – A First-Timers Guide

    Acropora Coral Care – A First-Timers Guide

    Are you looking at those amazing SPS tanks and wonder how to care for those rare Acroporas? I got you covered today as I go over Acropora coral care. I’ll go over their origins, what they need to thrive, how to maintain stability in your reef tank, and how to frag for Acros!

    If you are getting started in what I call the pinnacle of the reef tank hobby, you have landed in the right place. Let me guide you today on this difficult to keep, but very rewarding coral. Master this coral, and you will see how amazing this experience in the hobby can be. Let’s get started!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameAcropora spp.
    Common NamesLargely referred to as Acropora; the common name will be assigned with specific species
    FamilyAcroporidae
    OriginWidely found throughout the Indo-Pacific, few species present in the Caribbean
    Common ColorsGreens, yellows, blues, purples, reds, pinks, oranges, browns
    Care LevelDifficult
    TemperamentAggressive
    LightingHigh (200+ PAR)
    Tank PlacementMiddle, Top
    Flow RateHigh
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8 โ€“ 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350 โ€“ 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250 โ€“ 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    The wide majority of Acropora corals originate from the Indo-Pacific in major reef systems like the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Australia.

    With approximately 150 known species within the genus Acropora, only three occur outside of those regions far away in the Caribbean1. These species are the staghorn coral (Acropora cervicornis), elkhorn coral (Acropora palmata), and fused staghorn coral (Acropora prolifera).

    All three Caribbean species play a major role in the reef ecosystem. They provide shelter for juvenile fish and invertebrates and house a plethora of microscopic life.

    Similarly, Acropora from the Indo-Pacific are also responsible for creating the calcium carbonate backbone of many reef ecosystems. They grow at the tops of reefs where sunlight is abundant. Their hard skeletons have adapted to withstand the constant push and pull of the waves above.

    However, these stony corals have not adapted to the destruction caused by fishing trawlers, ship anchors, or the effects of climate change. Acropora have sadly become the face of dying reefs with lifeless white branches and deserted marine structures.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Acropora Coral

    Acropora are very easy to tell apart from most other corals, but can easily be confused with other small polyp stony (SPS) corals. Given that there are many natural species of Acropora as well as modified varieties from the aquarium hobby, it can be difficult to know exactly what you’re looking at. In general, it’s best to know the appearance of Acropora and then narrow them down from there.

    It should also be mentioned that the appearance of any given Acropora can vary greatly depending on the conditions under which they’re being kept; these differences can be in coloration and extension as well as subsequent movement and growth of the coral.

    Acropora–and many other SPS species–are referred to as ‘sticks’. This is not a misnomer as these corals really do look like a series of intertwined branches, even more so when you receive a single branch as a frag.

    These corals are usually seen in branching forms in the wild as well, forming tight acropora colonies with relatively thick branches. Other times, these branches can be very skinny and spread far apart and even come in plating varieties. In the more ornamental species, the flesh is often a bright color while the polyps are highly contrasting.

    Each polyp has its own tube called a radial corallite which can create a bumpy appearance; the polyps are usually very long, which can also create a fuzzy texture. An axial corallite is located at the end of each branch and appears to have a hole in the center. These corallites are used to distinguish different species of Acropora coral from one another.

    Acropora Coral Care Guide

    Acropora need to be placed where light and water flow allows. This is typically at the top and middle portions of the reef, though some extremely high-tech setups may allow for lower portions to be utilized.

    As we will discuss, these corals need plenty of room to grow and will fight each other when placed too closely together. That, and they can also grow into very impressive structures as well!

    Temperament

    Though Acropora might seem harmless as they don’t have any apparent sweeper tentacles, they are actually very aggressive. These stony corals are determined to preserve their spot on the reef and will eagerly damage other nearby coral species.

    Are they aggressive?

    If two colonies of Acropora touch in the aquarium, there will very quickly be a winner and a loser. It is likely that both will receive some damage where their flesh recedes to expose the white skeleton underneath, but one will cause the other to recede more. Because of this, they are categorized as being aggressive.

    Some hobbyists frag their corals to prevent this from happening while others allow them to adapt and change paths. One thing is for sure though, good placement in the first place will prevent many future problems down the line.

    Maintenance

    Designer Acropora

    Acropora corals are difficult to keep. But just how difficult are they?

    Needless to say, even the most experienced hobbyists have difficulty cultivating a healthy and sustaining SPS system. There are a few reasons why they’re so challenging, though. This mainly comes down to the type of lighting, the intensity of lighting, and the spectrum of lighting as well as the direction and intensity of water flow.

    In addition, nutrients and water quality play a huge role in the color and growth of Acropora, though their needs are relatively straightforward on paper; it is almost necessary to have an automated dosing system or calcium reactor when dealing with large numbers and colonies of Acropora to ensure stability.

    Is it difficult to keep?

    Acropora species are revered as the most difficult corals to keep in the home aquarium. These corals are very temperamental and don’t adapt to change. Flow, lighting, and nutrients all need to be in ideal ranges for Acropora to thrive. Even then, they may not survive.

    There are two things that might happen to an unhappy Acropora: 1) the coral changes colors, otherwise known as ‘browning out’, or 2) the coral dies over the course of a few days or weeks regardless.

    One of the biggest achievements of having an SPS system is having a display of colors. Though some aquarists might have great coral growth, lacking color can be enough for disappointment.

    This challenge, and the large payoff for displaying intricate reef structures and bold colors, make Acropora the holy grail that keeps hobbyists coming back.

    Lighting

    In nature, Acropora are found at the very top of the reef. The aquarium hobby has made it possible to keep them from the middle and up, though a large amount of light is needed.

    The conundrum with SPS corals is that the more they grow, the more they shade out the lower branches of themselves. This, in addition to them being light-loving already, can make having a large colony for a long time very difficult.

    SPS corals are especially susceptible to browning out when they don’t receive enough light and bleaching when they receive too much and/or are moved between environments too quickly. The perfect colorations will be reached through trial and error of different lighting fixtures, intensities, and spectrums.

    At the very least, most Acropora species need at least 200 PAR. However, they usually don’t start thriving until placed under 300-500 PAR, with some systems successfully running above 600 PAR. That is a ton of light that your coral needs to adapt to over time.

    Over the past few decades, hobbyists have argued about which light fixtures are best for Acropora. There is no clear consensus and success has been found under each type, whether it be LEDs, T5 fluorescents, or metal halides. My personal opinion, is try a hybrid system like the Aquatic Life system.

    Best For SPS Corals
    AQUATICLIFE 48″ T5/HO Hybrid Light

    For those with want a tank full of stick candy, a T5 hybrid unit like this one is the go to. Combine with Radion for the ultimate in lighting today

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    How many hours of light do they need?

    Besides intensity and spectrum, Acropora have the same photoperiod as other species, making them easy to keep alongside other SPS and large polyp stony (LPS) corals.

    In general, about 7-9 hours are recommended for peak settings with a couple of hours for ramp up and down. Of course, this will vary with each system, though anything below or above this could cause algae or other problems.

    Water Flow

    As with any coral, water flow is needed to deliver nutrients to corals while also removing waste and preventing algae and other microorganisms from settling. As mentioned before, these corals live on the top of reefs where water flow is naturally high due to wave activity.

    Not only do Acropora need high water flow but they also need random water flow. Random water flow from an aquarium wavemaker will ensure that the coral grows naturally; higher flow can result in thicker branches while lower flow will cause the coral to expand as much as possible.

    As the coral grows, the overall flow throughout the colony will naturally decrease. This can cut off nutrient exchange from the densest areas of the colony and even start to impede delivery to nearby colonies.

    The answer to this is simple: add more flow or frag the colony to increase water movement once again. Always keep an eye on how efficiently water is circulating throughout the system to maintain steady growth.

    Water Parameters

    SPS water parameters are somewhat of an oxymoron. These corals love clean water but need high, stable levels of nutrients for growth. This makes it very difficult to regulate in a home aquarium setting, though modern technology through automatic dosers and smartphone applications has made balancing nutrients that much easier.

    There are a few parameters that you need to keep a careful eye on like alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, nitrate, and phosphate.

    Alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium all work together to facilitate the growth and color of Acropora. They are usually introduced into the system through natural seawater or through marine salt mix or other supplements; as we’ll discuss later, these parameters are the most commonly dosed once coral growth becomes exponential.

    Best Value
    BrightWell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt

    Best Value

    The salt of choice for World Wide Corals. It is a top tier salt mix with a reasonable price

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    On the other hand, nitrate and phosphate can be introduced into the reef aquarium through waste from fish, invertebrates, and bacteria. These parameters need to be low, but available. Generally, reef tanks run under 40 ppm nitrate and under .01 ppm phosphate. An imbalance of these parameters can lead to algae and poor coral growth.

    For reefers who achieve this level in the hobby, the usual issue is lack of nutrients, due to the high end nature of their equipment. Dosing nitrates and phosphates are not uncommon!

    Dosing

    As corals grow, they take up nutrients. For average aquarists, these nutrients are reintroduced into the system by way of water changes, fish waste, and other natural processes in the aquarium. However, once Acropora start to grow, they can start to have high demands.

    More specifically, you will need to balance alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. These three parameters work together to create stability. Perform regular tests to observe which and how nutrients are being used throughout the system and add as needed. It will take time and testing to find which product combinations work best for your system.

    For alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium especially, it is imperative to change parameters slowly. This is done over the course of weeks and months. However, once the deficit is realized, dosing can be done weekly or as needed by a scheduled application or machine. There are also auto tools like the Neptune Trident that can automate dosing entirely. A trident is something to consider if you are considering designer Acropora corals.

    Neptune Trident

    The Neptune Trident is a controller that automatizes dosing and monitors the most important 3 parameters of coral reef keeping โ€“ alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. 

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    Sometimes, home aquarium systems can be too clean. In this case, phosphate and/or nitrate might need to be dosed. Though this can sometimes be fixed by feeding more heavily or even introducing new livestock into the tank.

    Feeding

    For the most part, Acropora corals get the food they need through their symbiotic relationship with photosynthetic dinoflagellates called zooxanthellae.

    These stony corals do not respond well to target feeding. Most times, they will retract their polyps and start to excrete slime and filaments to protect themselves. On the other hand, they have successfully been broadcast fed a variety of dedicated coral foods as well as zooplankton and small organisms.

    Some hobbyists like to give their SPS corals amino acids. These supplements chemically help with protein production which can lead to increased growth and more vibrant colors.

    Great For Acros
    AcroPower

    A great amino acid supplement designed for Acropora corals. Connect to your dosing pump and watch the results!

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    Do they grow fast?

    For as difficult are Acropora species are, they are relatively fast growers. Of course, this doesn’t mean that your tank will be filled out with coral in the first few months of introducing them to your system, but over years, you will have a thriving ecosystem comparable to those in the wild.

    It should be noted that it can take quite a while for some Acropora to settle in. They will likely turn brown over the first few weeks and months of introducing them into your aquarium. But they will quickly establish themselves and start to grow once stability has been reached.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    Acropora corals can be kept with all reef-safe species. In fact, Acropora do best when they receive natural nutrients from fish waste.

    As these corals can grow very large and need intricate reef tank setups, most aquarists have as much space as they need to house a variety of fish species. Some of these options usually include tangs which can also be beneficial for picking away any algae that might start at the base and lower portions of the colonies.

    It should be noted that some fish, like butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae family), are largely regarded as being not reef-safe. That being said, many hobbyists have found that they aren’t as likely to pick at SPS coral as they are at LPS or soft corals. Still, always use caution when adding a possibly not reef-safe species.

    Fragging

    Fragging Acropora can be profitable and might be necessary over time as your corals start to grow. Fragging these corals is not difficult, though it can be intimidating to work with a very expensive or sensitive species. If you’ve ever fragged any other kind of branching SPS coral before, the method is the same.

    For a clean cut, an electric saw is recommended. Otherwise, you may use a bone cutter. Simply cut the piece of Acropora where desired and use a coral dip or iodine for better recovery. For the bone cutter method, see the video from C&M Aquatics below for a visual.

    If selling these frags, you may want to pick the more desirable tips from the colony and not just a straight stick. It is also important to take from a place on the coral where the natural contour of the colony isn’t lost or impeded.

    Sometimes you might find that you’ve accidentally knocked off a piece from one of your colonies while doing maintenance in the tank. Simply stick this piece on a piece of rock or attach it to a frag plug. Chances are that it will make a full recovery and start forming its own colony!

    Why is yours turning white?

    In most cases, your Acropora is turning white because it is not happy. Bleaching is when the coral expels the symbiotic zooxanthellae from its calcium carbonate skeleton, leaving the colony stripped of color. This is in response to unfavorable conditions or sudden changes in water chemistry.

    For most hobbyists, it will be very easy to tell where the mistake was, especially if other corals in the tank bleached too. However, sometimes these things are untraceable and seemingly have no rhyme or reason. Once the coral has fully bleached, there is little to no chance that it will recover and algae will quickly cover the white remnants.

    If only one area of the coral has started to bleach then there is some hope, though recovery will be difficult. All in all, the most important aspect of a reef tank is stability. The problem is that you need stability while also addressing the problem, which might require gradually changing parameters.

    This needs to be a slow and steady process. The coral can absolutely recover, but it will take a few months.

    If your coral isn’t experiencing bleaching but still losing flesh, then there might be a deeper underlying problem like disease, infection, or pests.

    Slow & Rapid Tissue Necrosis (STN & RTN)

    Both slow tissue necrosis (STN) and rapid tissue necrosis (RTN) are somewhat of a mystery in the aquarium hobby. These conditions cause the coral to lose its flesh gradually or all at once with no apparent reason; this can happen overnight to an aquarium that has successfully been running for years.

    Right now, it is believed that these conditions are caused by an unknown organism that causes an unfavorable reaction due to changes in environmental conditions. There is no known cure for STN or RTN either, though recovery attempts can be made through quickly fragging the coral or dipping the coral in an iodine solution.

    Flatworms

    Many SPS corals have their own designated pest invertebrate and Acropora corals are no different. These flatworms are very difficult to see but can be reflected by the overall loss of color in the coral. Small missing pieces of flesh on the coral will also gradually spread across the colony, indicating where the flatworm has eaten.

    Luckily, there are a few products available to treat Acropora-eating flatworms, though these treatments are aggressive and will need regular water changes to ensure that other corals stay safe. There are a few livestock options for pest control too, like Halichoeres species of wrasse along with leopard wrasses (Macropharyngodon meleagris), though this is not guaranteed.

    Kills Flatworms
    Flatworm Exit

    A common treatment for flatworms. It’s an aggressive treatment. Be prepared to make water changes post treatment

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    Acropora-eating flatworms can be very difficult to diagnose and even more difficult to treat. It is possible, though.

    Where To Purchase

    Acropora Corals can be purchased from either local fish stores or online reef shops. When search for Acroporas, the reputation of the seller is critical and you should only work with a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) coral seller if looking online.

    Acropora Coral

    Use Coupon Code ASD5 For 5% Off Your Order!

    The Acropora Coral is considered the pinnacle coral to keep in reef tank hobby. Difficult to care for, but extremely rewarding and easy to frag

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    Acroporas are designer corals these days. There are many Acros with their own brand names now that are associated with the coral seller or store. Many fetch for high prices. Be prepared to shop around and look to be selective if you are start looking for designer corals.

    Closing Thoughts

    Acropora are the end goal for many hobbyists: they have incredible colors and grow into immense structures. Sadly, the rumors are true and these corals are the most difficult to keep due to their need for high lighting, high water circulation, and stable water parameters.

    Still, they remain a trademark for the picturesque home reef aquarium.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • 10 Best Aquarium Grass Species โ€“ Carpet & Foreground Plant Guide

    10 Best Aquarium Grass Species โ€“ Carpet & Foreground Plant Guide

    Aquarium grass species are some of my favorite plants to work with, especially when I’m designing a foreground layout. I’ve grown dwarf hairgrass carpets in my planted tanks and the results are stunning โ€” but I’ll be honest, they require CO2 and good light to really take off. There are easier options for those who want that carpet look without the high-tech setup, and this guide covers both ends of the spectrum.

    A lush grass carpet is one of the most striking things you can achieve in a planted aquarium โ€” I’ve attempted it multiple times over my 25 years in the hobby and I can tell you the species choice and setup make all the difference. Some aquarium grasses are genuinely beginner-friendly, while others demand CO2, high light, and careful trimming to stay dense. This guide covers the best grass species I’ve grown and the honest care requirements for each so you can pick the right one for your setup.

    The Benefits

    Like all aquatic plants, aquarium grass plants provide a huge range of benefits to your aquarium pets. Firstly, carpeting plants create an awesome habitat that bottom-dwelling fish love to explore and hide in.

    Aquarium plants also oxygenate the water and use up excess nutrients and nitrates from uneaten food and fish waste. In this way, they can prevent algae growth by out-competing the algae for nutrients.

    Apart from the benefits for the health of your tropical fish, a green bushy carpet at the bottom of the tank just looks amazing and adds that wow factor to any aquarium layout.

    Aquascaping With Them

    Aquarium grass and carpeting plants form the cornerstone of many of the most incredible freshwater aquascapes. You’ll find these plants in everything from picturesque, minimalist Iwagumi style layouts to wild-looking nature aquariums, and even carefully ordered Dutch-style planted tanks.

    Carpeting plants are super useful for the foreground of your tank because they tend to stay low and can be gradually replaced by taller plants towards the back of the layout. some species grow taller and make interesting specimen plants for the midground of your tank, especially when grown in tight clumps.

    Other plants like the Vallisneria grow really tall and make awesome background plants. These plants create that densely planted jungle feel and can be very handy for hiding hardware like heaters and airlines.

    10 Best Aquarium Grass Species

    With the huge range of aquatic plants available in the hobby, picking out the right aquarium plant species for your tank can be pretty tricky. That’s why I’ve put together this list of my top 10 favorite aquarium grass plants to make your life a lot easier. For each species, I’ll provide vital information like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Skill Level
    • Size
    • Lighting
    • Tank Placement
    • Growth Rate
    • CO2 Requirement

    Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. We go over this in more detail in our blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe, as we have new videos we publish every week.

    So let’s get started!

    1. Dwarf Hairgrass

    Easy To Grow Carpet!
    Dwarf Hairgrass

    Dwarf hairgrass is an easy to grow carpet that is great for beginners. Purchase tissue culture plants to ensure pest free plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Eleocharis pusilla
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 2-3 Inches
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground, Midground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    Dwarf Hairgrass is the first plant that comes to mind when discussing aquarium grass plants and that’s why it’s the first species on my list! This Australasian plant is easy to grow under moderate light and looks amazing as a carpet in minimalistic aquascapes like Iwagumi.

    Dwarf Hairgrass grows best in an aquarium soil substrate but can also work great in fine gravel or sand substrate enriched with root tabs. It is possible to plant Dwarf Hairgrass in a low-tech setup without CO2 but to achieve a dense carpet, you’re going to want a controlled supply of this important gas.

    2. Dwarf Sagittaria

    • Scientific Name: Sagittaria subulata
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 4-12 Inches
    • Lighting: Moderate-high
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground, Midground, Background
    • Growth Rate: Moderate/Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No, recommended

    Dwarf sag is a marsh plant from the Americas that looks amazing in freshwater aquariums. It is not a true grass but with its long narrow leaves, this plant makes a fantastic specimen plant or even a lush carpet option.

    Usually, this popular aquarium plant grows to about 6 inches and is perfect for the midground in most tanks. Dwarf Sagittaria likes high lighting and will grow best with added CO2.

    3. Vals Nana

    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria nana
    • Skill Level: Moderate
    • Size: 12-20 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate-High
    • Tank Placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Vals Nana is a great grass plant for the background of your aquarium. This plant grows fast, and is not suitable for trimming into a lawn, but should rather be used to get a tall, wild grass-type look.

    Vals nana looks similar to Hairgrass will grow taller and can make a very effective green backdrop to a nature-style aquascape.

    4. Eleocharis Belem

    Eleocharis Belem

    Shorter than dwarf grass and with a curly shape, this aquarium grass offers good looks with less maintenance than other grass

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    • Scientific Name: Eleocharis sp.
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 2-3 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    This popular Hairgrass form is similar to the well-known Dwarf Hairgrass. This aquatic plant differs in its slightly more curly leaf shape and smaller size. Eleocharis Belem makes a wonderful carpet, especially if you provide it with good light and added CO2.

    5. Narrow-leaf Micro Sword

    Micro Amazon Sword

    A mid-ground plant that is fast growing and easy to grow

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    • Scientific Name: Lilaeopsis mauritiana
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 1-2.5 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate-High
    • Tank Placement: Foreground
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Narrow-leaf Micro Sword is a tropical aquarium plant from the island of Mauritius. This aquatic plant grows slowly and stays small, usually between 2 and 4 inches in height.

    This makes it a great low-maintenance carpet plant. Good quality light and injected CO2 will help these plants grow faster.

    6. Pygmy Chain Sword

    Pygmy Chain Sword

    A low growing grass light that produces red hues in CO2 and fertilizer powered tanks.

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    • Scientific Name: Helanthium tenellum
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 3-4 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground, Midground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    This low-growing, easy plant from the Americas was previously thought to be a species of Echinodorus. The narrow-leaf variety looks very much like a grass plant, and there is a slightly larger broad-leaved variety available as well.

    Under high light, with fertilizer and CO2, the grass-like narrow-leaved form can take on a unique deep red tone that really stands out. These plants are also known as Dwarf Chain Swords.

    7. Dwarf Four-leaf Clover

    Marsilea Hirsuta

    A round leaf plant that can grow as a carpeting plant. Best grown with CO2 and stronger lighting

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    • Scientific Name: Marsilea hirsuta
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 1 inch
    • Lighting: Moderate-High
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Midground, Foreground
    • Growth Rate: Slow-Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No, recommended

    Dwarf water clover has round leaves and might not look much like grass when you take a close look at it. It makes an awesome bright green carpet for the floor of the planted tank though. This plant is easy to grow and works well in a smaller tank.

    If you want that really short, lawn look, however, you’re going to need good light and injected CO2. Under lower light, this aquatic plant tends to grow a bit tall and thin.

    8. Glosso

    Glossostigma Elatinoideas

    A beautiful carpeting plant that is best suited for advanced aquascapers. Grows fast and requires CO2

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    • Scientific Name: Glossostigma elatinoides
    • Skill Level: Moderate-Advanced
    • Size: 1-2 inches
    • Lighting: High
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    This beautiful lawn plant from New Zealand is quite a challenge to grow but is an awesome plant for experienced aquarists. It needs a lot of light and access to CO2 to keep it growing low and tight. In the wrong conditions, Glossostima plants tend to grow tall and thin, which isn’t a great look.

    9. Dwarf Baby Tears

    Baby Tears

    One of the easier carpeting plants available for planted tanks.

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    • Scientific Name: Hemianthus callitrichoides
    • Skill Level: Moderate-Advanced
    • Size: 1-2 inches
    • Lighting: High
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground, Midground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate-Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    Dwarf Baby Tears is a Cuban plant that is very popular with experienced aquarists who want a very short, tight carpet. Dwarf Baby Tears can be tricky for beginners because they need high lighting, CO2, good nutrients, and water flow to stay healthy.

    Regular trimming is also necessary to keep the lower parts of the plant healthy. Dwarf Baby Tears is probably the ultimate carpet plant, are you ready for the challenge?

    10. Monte Carlo

    Monte Carlo Tissue Culture – UNS

    Tissue culture plants are grown in labs and are completely pest free and have great shelf lives

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    • Scientific Name: Micranthemum tweediei
    • Skill Level: Easy-Moderate
    • Size: 1-2 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Tank Placement: Carpet, Foreground, Midground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate-Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    MicranthemumMonte Carlo’ is a popular Argentinian aquarium plant that looks similar to the previous species, but is a more hardy plant. These bright green carpet plants stay low and spread into a lovely green lawn if you provide them with enough light and CO2.

    It is even possible to grow Monte Carlo plants over rocks and other features in the aquarium as their root system doesn’t necessarily need access to soil.

    Tank Setup

    If you want to grow grass carpet plants in your aquarium, you’ll want to make sure you’re set up for success from the start. Let’s take a look at what you’ll need!

    Lighting

    A good light source is one of the most important keys to success when it comes to growing aquarium grass plants. Although most of the species on this list could technically survive under low light, they will not thrive in these conditions. If you want to grow a dense, short carpet of living plants, high light is usually the best way to go.

    Medium light is also a good option for many plants, especially if you are OK with taller, thinner plants with a slower growth rate. LED and fluorescent lamps are both great options, but whatever light intensity you choose to run, make sure you pick one with a Kelvin rating of 5500-6500.

    Substrate

    Almost all aquarium grass and carpet plants need substrate to grow. Some plants like Java Moss and Monte Carlo can be grown to look like grass if attached to the hardscape though.

    A nutrient-rich plant substrate is usually the best way to go. I would advise starting out with a good-quality aquarium soil. If you prefer to use an inert substrate like pool filter sand, it is possible to feed the plant’s roots with fertilizer tabs.

    CO2 Injection

    Along with light, water, and nutrients, Carbon dioxide is essential for all plants to live and grow. This gas occurs naturally in your aquarium water, but for many plants, the levels are just too low for healthy growth.

    Pretty much all aquarium plants grow best with increases CO2 levels, so if you want to get more serious about growing aquatic carpet plants, I would definitely suggest setting up a pressurized CO2 injection system.

    It’s not that you can’t grow a carpet without CO2, it just gets very difficult to get good results because the plants will not spread and cover the bottom in the way you want.

    Carbon dioxide is poisonous to your livestock at concentrations of over 30 ppm so make sure you set up a bubble counter and a drop checker to get your levels right and keep them running stable every day. If you are in the market for a quality CO2 system, I recommend the CO2Art brand.

    The Ultimate CO2 Kit
    CO2Art Pro Elite Series Bundle

    Use Offer Code ASD10%Off

    The highest end offering by CO2Art. This package includes everything you need to perform consistent and the highest quality CO2 injection in the industry!

    Click For Best Price

    Your aquarium plant will only be able to use Carbon dioxide while the lights are on, so make sure to set your injection system on a timer that starts up about 2 hours before your lights go on, and then shuts off again at the same time as your lights go off. The early start is to allow the gas to build up to the right concentrations so the plants are ready to grow as soon as the lights come on.

    Filtration & Water Quality

    A good quality filter is one of the most important pieces of hardware in any type of aquarium. Not only do filters keep the water in your tank looking great, but they are also vital for maintaining great water quality.

    The filter media in a mature cycled aquarium houses special beneficial bacteria that turn the harmful toxins in fish waste into nitrates. This keeps your fish healthy and creates an excellent natural source of nutrients for your plants!

    For a tank with a serious grass carpet, I recommend a top quality canister filter. Canister filters have the media capacity to handle the increase bioload of plant waste for large planted tanks and aquascapes.

    Tank Mates

    Grass and carpet plants provide a great natural habitat that bottom-dwelling fish love to explore. Most tropical fish make perfect tankmates for these plants, as long as they enjoy the same water temperature and parameters. There are a few types of fish that will not get along peacefully with your plants though, so here’s a short list of fish to avoid:

    • Silver Dollars
    • Goldfish
    • Oscars and other large cichlids
    • Buenos Aires Tetras

    The best fish for grass and really any type of planted tank are going to be nano fish. These small fish do well in planted tanks because they like to school, they are generally peaceful, and will not eat your plants. Several examples of these fish would be:

    How To Grow

    Turning a small pot full of aquarium grass plants into a dense carpet at the bottom of the tank can be difficult if you don’t know a few tricks. Read on how to learn the secrets to success!

    The Dry Start Method

    Some of the small aquarium grass plants will be much easier to grow using the dry start method, especially if you plan on growing a carpet. The dry start method involves setting up your aquarium, complete with substrate and hardscape, but then only adding enough water to saturate the soil.

    The plants are then planted and allowed to grow and develop healthy root systems until they are firmly attached rooted in the substrate. This can make life a whole lot easier because tiny plants tend to wash loose and drift around in tanks that are already filled with water. Here is a video by JJ Aquariums for a visual.

    This technique is recommended for growing beautiful carpets and works really well with tiny plants like Dwarf Baby Tears, Monte Carlo, Dwarf Four-leaf Clover, and Dwarf Hair Grass. One very important point to remember is that not all plants will survive a dry start. Some aquarium plants like Vallisneria can only be grown submerged under the water.

    Spacing & Propagation

    Planting on a grid is the best way to grow a carpet of aquarium grass plants, without spending a ton of money on enough plants to cover up the bottom of the tank. To do this, separate your tissue culture plants into as many sections as possible. Each section should be a complete plant with some healthy leaves and roots.

    Plant each one out at equal distances from its neighbor. A distance of about 0.5-1 inches will work, but obviously, the closer the spacing, the faster the plants will fill in. Use your aquascaping tweezers or pincettes to gently push each plant into the substrate, leaving a little bit above the soil surface.

    Aquarium grass plants are usually very easy to propagate because they spread laterally. Trimming the plants often speeds up their spread, and with the right light, access to nutrients, and CO2, you can get really good results. You can take cuttings at any time to replant elsewhere in your tank, just make sure they have some roots and leaves.

    Fertilization

    Fertilizer is a big deal when it comes to growing aquarium grasses. Because of their faster growing nature, they tend to consume nutrients fast and will need supplementation. . You will want an aquarium fertilizer designed for planted tanks. Not all fertilizers are designed for planted tanks and aquascapes as some tend to be newbie friendly.

    If you are attempting a carpet, you will want to go with a fertilizer like APT Complete. This fertilizer is designed for aquascapers and serious planted tank enthusiasts. It’s an all-in-one fertilizer, so the guesswork is taken out for you.

    Editor’s Choice!
    APT Complete

    Editor’s Choice

    Made by an aquascaper for aquascapers. This is the best all around aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. Marco and micronutrients in one bottle!

    Use Coupon Code ASDComplete for 10% off your order!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Trimming

    Regular trimming can be very important for maintaining a neat and even carpet at the bottom of the tank. Some plants that stay compact won’t need much attention, apart from keeping them to the areas where you want them.

    Taller plants like dwarf hair grass can benefit from trimming especially while it is still spreading to cover the floor. Trimming these plants actually stimulates them to put their energy into spreading out laterally, rather than growing tall.

    Trimming aquarium grass plants evenly can be pretty tricky with a regular pair of scissors. I recommend a sharp pair of curved or double-curved aquascaping scissors for the evenest results.

    Be sure to turn off your filter while trimming and allow the trimmings to float to the surface where you can collect them with a small fine mesh net. You can also siphon out any trimmings that may be drifting in the water.

    Tank Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is vital for growing healthy aquarium grass and carpeting plants. This means performing regular partial water changes, testing your water parameters, and removing algae when necessary.

    Vacuuming is one part of tank maintenance that is especially important when growing this kind of plant. Unfortunately, uneaten food and waste tend to fall and settle around the root zone of carpeting plants.

    If this kind of waste collects and causes nutrient levels to rise too high, ammonia spikes can occur, creating a dangerous situation for your pets. To prevent this, make sure you suck up as much waste from the plants as possible with your gravel vacuum when removing water for a water change.

    Pests And Other Problems

    Pests like snails often find their way into home aquariums on new plants. The best way to avoid introducing pests to your aquarium is definitely to use tissue culture plants.

    One of the most common problems we see with grass carpet plants is tall, thin growth, and a stubborn refusal to spread! This is typical of light and carbon dioxide deficiency, so consider upgrading to a more high-tech setup, or choose a plant species with lower light needs to get more bushy growth.

    Hair algae can be an issue in planted tanks with too much light and nutrients, but not enough CO2. Sometimes a simple fix is to decrease your photoperiod (day length) or add a clean-up crew like Amano shrimp and Otocinclus catfish.

    Where To Buy

    Aquarium grass plants are popular and pretty easy to find at most good fish stores and through online fish stores. When it comes to buying aquarium grass plants, I definitely suggest starting out with tissue culture specimens that are produced by a sterile process.

    FAQS

    Which is good for a tank?

    Choosing a grass plant for your aquarium is all about your goals for the look of your aquascape, and the kind of equipment you have. Any of the 10 species in this list will work great in your planted tank.

    Can I grow it in my fish tank?

    Absolutely you can grow grass in your fish tank. Not just any old grass will do though, you will need to plant an aquatic plant like one of the species described in this article.

    How long does it take to grow?

    Growing speed varies depending on which type of water plants you grow. Regardless of the species though, each type will have a ‘sweet spot’ where the lighting, CO2 levels, and nutrients are perfect for optimum growth.

    Can you put fake plants in a tank?

    Plastic plants are a quick and easy way to green up aquariums. There are pros and cons to this option, but whatever ornament you choose to use in your fish tank, always be sure that it is aquarium safe.

    How do I grow it in my fish tank?

    To grow aquatic grass plants, you will need light, nutrients, substrate, and water with the right temperature and parameters. Read through this article to learn everything you need to know about how to grow your own aquarium grass plants.

    Final Thoughts

    A beautiful aquascape is not complete without some grass and carpet plants. Apart from the obvious aesthetic benefits, these plants are also great for your fish and really satisfying to grow. Use the information in this guide to start growing your very own underwater grass plants. Happy growing!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • 7 Best Internal Aquarium Filters โ€“ Reviewed & Tested

    7 Best Internal Aquarium Filters โ€“ Reviewed & Tested

    Internal filters are something I recommend far more often than people expect, especially for smaller tanks and breeding setups. I’ve used them in quarantine tanks and fry tanks where a hang-on-back would create too much flow, and the better models do a surprisingly good job. They’re not glamorous, but they’re practical โ€” and after testing several of them hands-on, I can tell you which ones are actually worth buying.

    Internal filters are one of those underrated filtration options โ€” they’re compact, quiet, and work surprisingly well for small tanks, quarantine setups, and nano builds. I’ve used internal filters extensively in my own quarantine tanks and betta setups over the years, and the quality difference between the good brands and the cheap ones is very noticeable in terms of flow rate consistency and longevity. If you’re setting up a smaller system and want reliable filtration without a hang-on-back cluttering the tank, these are the best options I’ve found.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their filtration choice anxiety (and believe me, there are a million filters for sale out there). Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best internal aquarium filter on the market.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    OASE BioPlus
    • 3 Stages
    • Integrated heater
    Best Value
    Penn-Plax Cascade
    • 3 Stage
    • Large media capacity
    Budget Option
    Tetra Filter
    • 3 Stage
    • Cheap

    Let’s start this off with the best of the best. Without a doubt, my top recommendation is the OASE BioPlus internal filter. It has everything you need – 3 stage filtration, good size, and the only filter available where you can place a heater inside of it.

    Penn-plax offers a great value option that holds a large amount of media for an internal filter. The Tetra internal filter is a hang on the back style filter that offers a well priced filter that is easy to use and maintain.

    The Candidates (The Line Up)

    Now that you know my top picks, let’s look at the full list of products I reviews. I got 7 in total here, all brand names. These are brands I trust and have used over the years. Several of these brand names have received my recommendation as the best filter for other categories. I’ll go into further detail below.

    PictureNameTypeLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    OASE BioPlus Internal Filter

    OASE BioPlus Internal Filter

    • 3 Stage
    • Integrated Heater
    • Corner Fit
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    Penn-Plax Cascade Internal Filter

    Penn-Plax Cascade Internal Filter

    • 3 Stage
    • Large media capacity
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Whisper Internal Filter

    Whisper Internal Filter

    • 3 Stage
    • Cheap
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    MarineLand Magnum Polishing Filter

    MarineLand Magnum Polishing Filter

    • Diatom Filter
    • Powerful
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter

    Aqueon Quietflow Internal Filter

    • 3 Stage
    • Works for shrimp and fry
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Fluval U3

    Fluval U3

    • 3 Stage
    • Powerful
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    SICCE Shark

    SICCE Shark

    • 3 Stage
    • Reliable
    Buy On Amazon

    The 7 Best Internal Aquarium Filters Of 2023

    Let’s go in-depth about what makes each of these filters stand out from the dozens of others in the hobby. You can check out our video from our YouTube Channel below. We go into more details in our blog post so check out both!

    1. OASE BioPlus

    Editor’s Choice
    OASE Bioplus Thermo

    The Best Internal Filter

    The OASE Bioplus is an internal version of the Biomaster Therm. It’s the only internal filter I trust in aquascapes

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    If you seen my best canister filter post, you know how much I love the OASE Biomaster Thermo. What if I told you that OASE created an internal version of the Biomaster that offers some of the same great features! Let me introduce you to the OASE Bioplus Thermo.

    This internal aquarium filter is a 3 stage filter that is powered by filter foam and activated carbon foam. You can also switch out one of the foam filters to a 30 ppi fine foam to have a polishing stage. The filter can actually still run when you are replacing media.

    The outlets are designed to skim the surface of the aquarium in order to prevent surface scum build and has and adjustable dial to tune up or down the flow.

    I haven’t even gotten to the best part of this filter! The filter can house an OASE Heat Up aquarium heater on the back. This keeps the heater out of sight and away from your fish. I love this feature because it makes for a clean presentation. It is designed to fit in a corner so it stays out of sight!

    I’ve been really impressed with this filter since seeing it in action at Aquashella earlier this year. It hides so well in aquascapes and looks professional. I almost prefer the look to a power filter. The main con with this filter is the price. it’s more expensive than many hang on back filters, but it’s presentation is so much better. If you are looking for an internal aquarium filter, this is the one to buy!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Integrated heater
    • Removable mechanical filter chamber
    • Durable – German made
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Difficult to find at local fish stores

    2. Penn-Plax Cascade

    Best Value
    Penn-Plax Cascade Internal Filter

    This 3 stage internal filter offers one of the largest media capacities for an internal filter

    Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

    Penn-plax has the most utilitarian filter on this list. This filter is designed to be an internal canister filter. It holds a ton of media for an internal filter and it’s all in contain form so you can put whatever you want in each chamber.

    It is designed to be completely a submersible filter that can be placed vertically or horizontally. This makes it a great choice if you are planning to use this in a shallow aquarium, paludariums, and turtle tanks. It also comes with a direction flow nozzle so you can turn the flow in any direction you want. This gives this filter more versatility over the BioPlus, which is mainly designed as a fish tank filter.

    The filter can also use a venturi outlet or spray bar to provide oxygen to your water. The Cascade has a flow regulator at the top of the unit so you can adjust the flow of the outlet. The filter is very easy to use and well priced.

    It doesn’t have the best looks, but it is the most versatile filter on this list. Easily the best buy on here if you are looking for bang for the buck.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • 3 stage
    • Large capacity
    • Great price
    Cons
    • Ugly looking
    • Large profile

    3. Tetra Whisper

    Budget Option
    Tetra Whisper Internal Filter

    Tetra’s 3 stage internal filter offering is a great budget option for those looking for value.

    Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

    If you have been following me for a while, you know that I rarely put Tetra filters on a list. I’m just not a fan of the Tetra filters and believe there are better filters out there. This internal filter, however, is the exception. It is economical and fits the bill perfectly in a small tank.

    The whisper filter offers their traditional “bio-bag” but has a permanent biological filter (they Tetra calls a bio-scrubber) section that makes up for the removable filter cartridge. It is very quiet and easy to use. The instructions are really bad for this filter, so I’m going to post this video by MW Craft Studio on how to install if you do purchase it below.

    What’s there not to like? The main issue is how it mounts. It mounts with a clip instead of a suction cups or magnet. This limits the filter to the top of your tank, which can be a problem if you are using it for shallow setups. I’m also not a fan of filter cartridges, as the expense adds up over time.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • 3 stage
    • Cheap
    • Air driven
    Cons
    • Cartridge based
    • Can only mount with a clip

    4. Marineland Magnum Polishing

    MarineLand Magnum Filter

    This excellent internal filter offers a diatom filter option for extra water polishing.

    Buy on Petco Buy On Amazon

    The Marineland Magnum filter makes this list for it’s unique feature. It has a diatom polish filter option, which is something that has been used clear up water, remove dinos, and even useful in quarantine tanks.

    The filter, when operating normally is a 2 stage filter. It has a filter floss sleeve that you slide into the chamber and a media chamber. You do a bit of biological filtration from the floss, but I wouldn’t rely on that. If you are going to use this as a 3 stage filter, my suggestion would be to add some biological filtration media in the media chamber. It has a splitter in it so you place more than 1 type of media.

    The filter functions off of Marineland’s penguin powerheads, which is has a very reliable motor. It is powerful at 297 gallons per hour and can be tuned down as needed.

    Because it normally operates as a 2 stage filter it doesn’t make my top 3, however, it has a place in many tank setups as a polisher with its diatom option. It also goes on sale often. Definitely look into it when it goes on special.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Powerful
    • Diatom option
    • Works up to 90 gallons
    Cons
    • Only 2 stage
    • Large

    5. Aqueon Quietflow

    Great For Shrimp Tanks
    Aqueon Submersible Internal Aquarium Filter, 40-gal

    An internal filter that is designed to be used for both shrimp and fish fry. An excellent alternative to traditional sponge filters!

    Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

    Finding a filer that works for freshwater shrimp and fish fry can be a challenge! Sure you have sponge filters that do the job, but there is a need for a comprehensive filter that works with these small critters.

    The Aqueon Quietflow internal aquarium filter is an attempt to address this need. It actually does a pretty good at address the need. It has a 3 stage filtration process. With a filter cartridge system handling chemical and a coarse sponge handling mechanical. There is a plastic grid called a Bioholster that is meant to house beneficial bacteria.

    Quietflow Filter Inside

    I like the concept a lot. The main thing that bugs me is the filter cartridge system, but it mostly holds carbon so it’s not as bad as other cartridge systems I’ve seen. The filter can only be mounted at the top of the aquarium. It is not recommended to be submersed. If you are looking at filter for shrimps or fish fry, defiantly give this a look!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Works for shrimp and fish fry
    • Easy to operate
    • Comes in 10 or 20 gallon size
    Cons
    • Cartridge based
    • Noisy

    6. Fluval U3

    Fluval U3

    This excellent 3 stage filter offers premium filter features and is powerful. Well known in the turtle keeping world.

    Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

    The Fluval U3 is arguably the most powerful internal filter on this list. This is an internal filter that is build like Fluval’s C3 series filters. It has a comprehensive 3 stage system. It uses two foam pads, one for mechancial and one for polishing. It has two cartridges for chemical filtration and ceramic rings for biological filtration media.

    Like the Penn-Plex, it is fully submersible filter and can be mounted either horizontal or vertical. The flip top lid allows for easy access when the filter needs to be maintained. It comes with a 3-way flow control and you can attach spray bar to the filter to provide oxygenation.

    Like all Fluval filters, this one is designed in Italy and build to last. It has a solid warranty with Fluval’s brand name. The main thing that pushes me away from putting this at the time is the poly max cartridges. They get expensive over time, so I still prefer to recommend filters that use foam over cartridges as they save an aquarist money over time.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Italian made
    • Fully submersible
    • 3 stage filtration
    Cons
    • Cartridge based

    7. Sicce Shark

    SICCE Shark

    The Sicce Shark offers Sicce’s legendary reliability and performance in an internal package.

    Buy On Amazon

    What’s a comparision article without a Sicce product ๐Ÿ˜. I love Sicce products. From their aquarium pumps to their skimmers powered by them, Sicce has a history of reliable and well made Italian products. The shark is no exception.

    The shark has what Sicce called a magnetic quick uncoupling system (MCS System). This means that the filter compartments are held by magnets making it easy to remove for maintenance. The filter takes in water from the bottom and has an adjustable intake diameter that can prevent small fish to enter it.

    It also has a water flow regulator on the flow and a venturi feature to add oxygen to the water. It is designed to be modular so you have the freedom of adding whatever filter media you want. Sicce has several types of media you can purchase from them or you can add your own.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Sicce brand
    • Fully submersible
    • 3 stage filtration
    Cons
    • Large
    • Ugly looking in tank

    What Is Internal Aquarium Filter?

    This is the first question I need to address because there is some misconceptions as to what one is. There are cheap internal filters that run off an air pump. Those are not what I’m going to go through. I feel that sponge filters are far superior to any of the air pump powered internal filters you can purchase.

    I’m focusing on powered internal filters. The ones that run off an impeller. These internal filters are more powerful and versatile than the cheap air powered ones. These internal filters are designed to fit into small spaces and in smaller tanks. They can offer 3 stage filtration and some are designed to keep a low profile so they stay hidden in a tank.

    Our Criteria

    Before I go through a list, let’s talk about my criteria for selecting these filters. I looked at the following when making this list:

    • Features – I want a 3 stage filter or some unique feature that makes it stand out
    • Brand Name – No cheap Chinese brands here. Everything here is brand name, trusted, and back with long warranties
    • Ease of Use – I want plug and play and easy to maintain. No one likes a complex filter. Internal filters are all about simplicity!

    When To Use

    Internal filters have great uses in certain setups. While canister and power filters are better, they do not work for every setup. Let’s talk about good scenarios where an internal filter makes a lot of sense.

    Nano Tanks

    An aquarium that is 20 gallons or under is a great candidate for an internal aquarium filter. Internal filters, when designed correctly like the OASE, can keep a low profile in the tank and keep clutter low. They have enough capacity to handle tanks of this size and are potentially quieter than power filters.

    Shrimp Tanks

    With the correct filter like the Aquaeon model mentioned earlier, internal filters can make great filters for freshwater shrimp tanks. They offer 3 stage filtration, yet are gentle enough to not hurt the small shrimp

    Betta Fish Tanks

    With the long delicate fins of fancier varieties of Bettas, an internal filter makes a lot of sense. I feel the OASE fits them really well because you can set it up in the corner with the heater. Your betta can then have free rein in the aquarium with you having to worry about it’s fins getting caught in the intake and getting to close to the heater.

    Breeder Tanks

    Like shrimp tanks, breeder tank need gentle flow and a gentle filter. An internal aquarium filter can fit the bill if it is built correctly. They offer superior filtration over a sponge filter since they have the ability to filter in 3 stages instead of 2.

    Turtle Tanks

    Submersible filters are great for turtle tanks. You can place them anywhere underwater to get the filtration you need. They will be more quiet than canisters and power filters since they will push water at the water line or below instead of above.

    Axolotl Tanks

    A submersible filter is great for Axolotl tanks. You have to make sure you get an oversized filter given the amount of waste these salamanders create, but you will have a much quieter setup using an internal filter over others. Because you can place them anywhere in the water. you can put them in the area that your Axoloti finds comfortable

    FAQS

    What Is The Quietest One?

    The quietest internal aquarium filter that I’ve used is the Tetra Whisper. It’s combo of low flow and placement makes it very quiet. It’s not the the best filter though. If you want quiet and quality, go with the OASE which is slightly louder.

    How Much Do They Cost?

    A fish tank filter can cost hundreds of dollars to a dozen depending on what you type of filter and size of filter you are shopping for. In general, sponge and internal filters will be the cheapest while canister filters and sumps will be the most expensive. However, if your filter uses cartridges the ongoing cost may be higher than another model that uses foam and sponges.

    Are They Good?

    Not all internal aquarium filters are good. A good internal filter will have 3 stage filtration, a solid warranty, and have a good amount of media capacity to handle a moderate fish load. I only listed good internal filters in this post, anything I felt was average, I left off the list. You are only seeing the best of the best with me.

    Do They Bother Fish?

    Internal filters do not bother fish. In fact, I would say some of the the internal filters on this list do a better job of making fish feel at home than some power filters. The more low profile and low key a filter is, the more comfortable your fish will feel. This is what filters like OASE and Fluval made this list.

    How Often Should I Clean It?

    You should clean the sponges on your filter at least once a month. Do not clean all your stages at once as you can kill a significant amount of bacteria in the process. Rotate the stages as you clean and only use your aquarium water when cleaning.

    Can They Be Submerged?

    Yes, internal filters can be submerged. Most brands will tell you on the box if they can be submerged or not. In my experience, I find the Fluval and the Penn-Plex as the best of the submersible power filters. Both can be placed either vertical or hortizontal.

    Closing Thoughts

    Internal filters, when designed correctly, can provide filtration for any type of aquarium. I hope I have helped with your buyer’s anxiety when it comes to figuring out which filter is best for your needs. Have any questions? Leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation! Thanks for reading!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Montipora Coral Care – A Complete Guide

    Montipora Coral Care – A Complete Guide

    Montipora is one of the first SPS corals I recommend to reef hobbyists ready to move beyond softies and LPS. I’ve kept several species in my 125-gallon reef over the years, and they’re more forgiving than most people assume โ€” as long as your water chemistry is stable and your flow is adequate. The variety of growth forms and colors available makes them endlessly interesting to collect.

    Do you want to know all about Montipora coral care? If so, this blog post is for you! We cover all the basics in order to keep your corals happy and healthy. There are many different types of Montipora that exist today; however, they all require the same basic care. We’ll cover everything from lighting requirements, parameters, and placement. Don’t worry, it’s easy as 1-2-3! Let’s dive in!

    An Overview On The Montipora Coral

    Scientific NameMontipora spp.
    Common NamesMontipora, vase corals, velvet corals
    FamilyAcroporidae
    OriginWidely found throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans
    Common ColorsPurples, greens, oranges, reds, blues, yellows
    Care LevelEasy for SPS
    TemperamentPeaceful
    LightingModerate-High (150-200+ PAR)
    Tank PlacementMiddle, Top
    Flow RateModerate – High
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8 โ€“ 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350 โ€“ 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250 โ€“ 1350 PPM
    PropagationFragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Species of Montipora coral can be found at all depths of the reef. They are largely found throughout the Indian and Pacific Oceans, with most specimens within the aquarium hobby originating from waters around Australia and Indonesia.

    These corals are a type of small polyp stony (SPS) coral, which means that they excrete a hard calcium carbonate skeleton that houses photosynthetic zooxanthellae. SPS corals, such as Montipora, are the foundation for coral reefs as they build hard structures that shelter a plethora of life; they have evolved to be able to withstand turbid waters where other soft corals and large polyp stony (LPS) corals would be damaged by strong waves and currents.

    SPS corals also thrive in intense light. Some of the most notable species, like those from the Acropora coral genus, can be found at the top of the water column under direct sunlight. Montipora corals are not as demanding when it comes to lighting, but they will still thrive in areas with lots of light available.

    Plating varieties that grow outwards from the reef will also choke out any other corals that might fall in the shadow below them.

    Is This Hard To Keep In The Aquarium?

    In regards to SPS, Montipora is one of the easiest species you can keep in the aquarium. That isn’t to say that they can be kept by anyone, though.

    Montipora corals need high lighting, high water flow, and stable water parameters. Though this might sound reasonable for beginners, many hobbyists aren’t at that point with their tanks yet. At the very least, an aquarium should be one year old before attempting to add any SPS. This will allow time for the tank to settle, for algae outbreaks to end, and to develop a true understanding of how this mini-ecosystem works.

    However, if you have successfully kept soft corals and LPS and have seen growth and stability, then you may be ready to try SPS corals. On top of being relatively easy to keep, Montipora coral is a popular entryway SPS species due to the many different varieties, shapes, and colors it’s available in.

    Montipora can come in branching, plating, and encrusting coral varieties in almost all colors. Alongside with birdnest corals, the montipora is considered a good stepping stone into advanced SPS species like Acropora corals.

    What Does Montipora Coral Look Like?

    What Does A Montipora Coral Look Like

    Montipora can be somewhat challenging to identify since it can come in so many varieties and be categorized under many designer names. In general, it’s best to know the general attributes of each type of Montipora coral variety regardless of the color or common name given.

    Branching

    Montipora Digitata

    The most popular branching species of Montipora coral is Montipora digitata. From there, the most common colors of Montipora digitata are orange (‘Forest Fire Montipora digitata’) and green (‘Green Montipora digitata’).

    Like other branching SPS corals, branching Montipora grows into fascinating, complex structures. These corals have thicker branches with antler-like tips. The polyps are very concentrated and can create a very fuzzy appearance. A healthy branching Montipora will have white tips that indicate new growth.

    Though these corals will grow towards the light on their own, new growth will start to shade out any old branches below. Because of this, it’s often necessary to regularly frag and trim the colony for optimal health.

    Plating

    Plating Montipora is probably the most popular variety of this particular coral species and definitely one of the easiest to recognize. Most specimens of plating Montipora coral belong to Montipora capricornis, though true identification can be difficult.

    These corals are aptly named after their mostly horizontal circular growth. Plating Montipora corals have a rough texture with polyps that do not extend very far. These corals will continue to expand outwards as far as they can, but will eventually start to plate upwards as well.

    Though plating Montipora coral brings another dimension to the reef aquarium, a colony can take up a lot of space. Due to its outwards growth, it eventually shades out anything that grows below it. This can take a lot of real estate from the rest of the reef; because of this, many hobbyists try to place them as low as lighting allows.

    Encrusting

    Encrustring Montipora

    Encrusting Montipora corals aren’t as popular as branching or plating varieties, but they’re still a good choice for bringing some additional color into the reef aquarium. Most encrusting corals will belong to Montipora verrucosa, though this is not always true.

    This coral has a very hard and bumpy appearance; the individual polyps are barely noticeable. They do not come in as many color options as the previous varieties of Montipora coral and are mostly limited to orange, green, and purple.

    Encrusting Montipora quickly grows over rock and other structures in the aquarium. Though they are not the most obvious coral in the aquarium, they can bring unique color and texture.

    Placement In The Reef Aquarium

    In general, all varieties of Montipora coral can be placed in the middle or top of the tank. They need moderate to high light and moderate to high water flow. Based on the setup of the aquarium, this could even allow Montipora to be grown farther down towards the substrate.

    The most important factors about placing Montipora coral are adequate and even water flow, especially with branching varieties. Branching Montipora can quickly create a dense cluster of coral which can lessen water flow. This means that nutrients and gas exchange lessen, which can start to affect the overall health of the coral over time.

    This can be solved by adding more water flow or fragging the corals to increase water circulation once again. In general, it is also best to have random water flow throughout the tank rather than unidirectional water flow to keep debris from piling up in one spot. This can be achieved with multiple pumps or ones that have a randomized setting.

    Do they Need High Light?

    Yes, Montipora needs high light. As one of the least light-demanding species of SPS, they still need at least 150 PAR with appropriate frequencies and intensities.

    Like other corals, Montipora can be acclimated to higher portions of the tank over time and many have successfully been kept at areas receiving 200-300+ PAR. If they are not receiving enough light, they will usually start to lose their color and may even turn brown; if they are receiving too much light, they will start to bleach.

    A brown Montipora is usually a sure sign that the coral is not receiving enough light, though this could also be due to other stressors as well. Shadowing is also a problem with SPS corals as they get larger. This is more pronounced when using LED lighting. It’s best to work with a high end LED light like an EcoTech Radion. or consider a hybrid system when working with a heavily stocked SPS tank.

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    How Do You Place Encrusting?

    Though branching and plating Montipora corals don’t need much special consideration in regards to placement, many hobbyists choose to keep their encrusting species on rock islands.

    While SPS growth isn’t fast at first, it can start to become exponential in a very short period of time. This is especially true with encrusting Montipora that will shamelessly grow over anything that it can, including pest algae and other corals.

    In order to control the spread, many hobbyists dedicate a certain area of the tank just to encrusting Montipora. It is also a popular option to allow it to grow up the wall of the aquarium, though many hobbyists prefer a green star polyp (Pachyclavularia violacea) backdrop instead.

    Temperament In The Aquarium

    One of the best things about Montipora coral is that they are almost completely harmless to other corals. These corals have barely any sting and will not hurt other corals they come into contact with. However, this is not true if they come in contact with other corals.

    SPS are delicate animals. They do not have much ability to sting and tend to bleach if you look at them the wrong way. Because of this, it is crucial to keep more aggressive corals far away from SPS colonies.

    LPS with long sweeper tentacles are especially to blame as they can quickly hit a branch of SPS and cause injury. Though most Montipora are able to recover from injury, there is time for infection and algae to grow which can negatively impact the overall health of the coral.

    If attempting a mixed reef, make sure that there are distinct zones of aggression, allowing plenty of space for sweeper tentacles and potential growth.

    Care And Maintenance

    Montipora coral does not require a lot of maintenance. If an aquarium is stable, it is most important to keep that stability. When dealing with SPS, that mostly means maintaining water parameters through dosing.

    Because SPS corals build calcium carbonate skeletons, they need a good supply of nutrients, including trace elements and alkalinity and calcium supplementation (like E.S.V). Since Montipora coral is a faster-than-average growing coral, dosing might also be necessary to keep up with growth even if the colony isn’t large and if there aren’t many other SPS in the aquarium.

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    Each system will be different and dosing frequencies and amounts can only be determined by recording and documenting how nutrients are used throughout the tank. It should also be noted that some species of Montipora are much more forgiving of instability and less-than-optimal conditions than others.

    Dosing

    The main parameters you may need to dose for successful Montipora coral growth are alkalinity, calcium, magnesium, and trace elements. It is necessary to analyze how these levels change with and in between water changes to determine how much dosing is necessary.

    As new water is circulated throughout the aquarium, nutrients are used for skeletal growth. This depletes nutrients, which can only be added through new water or through dosing; in order to minimalize maintenance and to increase daily stability, it is simpler and more effective to dose.

    Because of this need to dose, many hobbyists equip an auto-doser to their system. These can be costly at first, but they will add the exact amount of product needed to maintain ideal levels and eliminate the need for additional upkeep.

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    If you are running a very clean system in regards to nutrients, then it might also be necessary to dose nitrates and phosphates–though, most reefers are usually trying to bring these two parameters down instead of increasing them.

    Feeding

    It might seem counterintuitive to feed SPS as they lack fleshy polyps that will quickly accept foods, but SPS actually appreciate broadcast feedings every now and then; target feeding is not recommended and can actually cause the coral to retract.

    Most of the food your coral needs will be given through the photosynthesis processed by symbiotic zooxanthellae. However, you may supplement feedings with amino acids and zooplankton.

    Chemically, amino acids are the backbone of proteins. Increased proteins mean increased growth, which can improve the size, color, and overall health of the coral. On the other hand, zooplankton can be processed as regular food.

    As Montipora coral gets most of its ‘nutrition’ from lighting, amino acid and zooplankton supplements are not regularly needed and should not be overdone; some systems that run higher nutrients don’t need them at all. In low nutrient systems, supplemental feedings should be done one to two times a week at the most.

    Again, the schedule will depend on how your system responds.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    Montipora coral can be kept with all reef-safe species. SPS can be easily picked at by more advantageous species, like marine angelfish and butterflyfish, so it is best to go with those that are guaranteed to be safe, like:

    It is not impossible to keep certain species of butterflyfish with SPS, like the copperband butterfly (Chelmon rostratus), though this will largely depend on the personality of the individual fish.

    It should also be noted that plating Montipora coral can easily be irritated by wandering snails and crabs. Though they shouldn’t cause too much damage, you might want to avoid hermit crabs and larger snails that will unknowingly scrape the top of your Montipora.

    Fragging

    Fragging Montipora coral is relatively easy (video source), especially plating varieties. In some ways, fragging SPS is easier than fragging LPS or soft corals, though the recovery rates can be a little trickier.

    In order to frag plating Montipora, simply break the plate up. This can be done inside or outside of the tank as long as you have full control over where the break is. A bone cutter can also be used to make smaller, more precise incisions.

    In order to frag branching or encrusting varieties, you will need a bone cutter to split a branch or to get an encrusted piece off the rock. Once done, simply glue the frag to a frag plug or back to a piece of rock in the aquarium.

    A coral dip, like iodine, is recommended to help speed up recovery, though this step is not entirely necessary.

    Pests

    Even though Montipora are some of the easiest SPS to keep, they come with some unique challenges. One of these challenges is that they’re one of the most susceptible corals to bring unwanted pests to the aquarium, namely the Montipora eating nudibranch (For more info, check out my friend Aaron and his video above).

    Montipora eating nudibranchs will evade most coral dips and find their way into the aquarium regardless; some adults may die during the dipping process but eggs largely remain unscathed.

    These invertebrates are small and white. They have several appendages that come out from the sides of their body that facilitate movement. They can be found on the glass of the aquarium, in the substrate, or directly on the Montipora coral. It is usually easiest to find them at night with a flashlight.

    There are a few ways to tell if you’re facing a Montipora nudibranch outbreak. These signs include:

    • Exposed areas of skeleton when there are no signs of aggression from other corals and stable water parameters
    • Random bleached areas of the coral away from the edge
    • Egg clutches on the underside of the coral
    • Visual observation of nudibranchs

    Tanks are especially susceptible to Montipora eating nudibranch if introducing a wild-caught coral. In order to prevent this and to receive a hardier coral in general, it is always best to choose aqua-cultured specimens. Still, there is always the chance that nudibranchs will be introduced from an aqua-cultured setting.

    The best way to avoid Montipora eating nudibranchs is by allowing enough time for quarantine. Several weeks should give enough time to observe the telltale signs of an infestation. Quarantine allows for much more aggressive treatments without having to worry about other more sensitive fish and corals that are waiting in the display.

    Even then, it is possible to find nudibranchs on a quarantined piece of Montipora. At this point, it will take persistence and dedication to get rid of them. There are a few options for dealing with Montipora eating nudibranchs, and usually, the solution will be a combination of all methods.

    One of the most aggressive ways for eliminating Montipora eating nudibranchs from the aquarium is to persistently dip the coral. This dip should be strong and administered regularly; basically, you want to dip as frequently as you can without risking damaging the coral. At the same time, check the undersides of the coral for eggs and manually remove them.

    In addition to dipping the corals, you may try more organic remedies, such as introducing a wrasse that is a natural predator. In particular, the yellow coris wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) and the six-line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) have proved to be the most helpful.

    Keep in mind that your tank should be able to accommodate for long-term housing of these species, or plans should be made to safely rehome them after the nudibranchs have been eliminated. It is very unlikely that the yellow coris wrasse will solve this problem alone though and usually you will need to dip the corals as well.

    Lastly, you may need to sacrifice a piece of coral. Some hobbyists have found success in removing all Montipora from the aquarium except for one piece. This piece will act as a lure that can be removed once nudibranchs have occupied it. However, as nudibranchs can live in other parts of the aquarium, this method is not always guaranteed to be completely effective.

    Still, Montipora eating nudibranchs are extremely difficult to get rid of and anything is worth a try. Though these invertebrates mainly target plating Montipora, they may also go after encrusting and branching varieties as well.

    Where To Buy

    Montipora corals can be purchased at local aquarium stores or online. I tend to prefer online coral vendors as they will sell what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG), offer guarantees, and generally have a better reputation for not having corals infected with pests.

    Closing Thoughts

    Montipora is a very popular genus of hard coral to keep due to its hardiness, available varieties, and color selection compared to other species of SPS. Montipora can be plating, branching, or encrusting, and requires high lighting and high water flow.

    These corals can be more susceptible to pests than other SPS corals, but they are very easy to frag and pretty forgiving when it comes to instability in water chemistry. They are also relatively easy to find and can be an inexpensive addition to the aquarium.

    Have a question? Leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Welcome to the reef aquarium community :).


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Fish For A 5 Gallon Tank – 10+ Great Choices (With Pictures)

    Fish For A 5 Gallon Tank – 10+ Great Choices (With Pictures)

    Five-gallon tanks are tricky because the stocking options are genuinely limited โ€” and I see a lot of bad advice online suggesting fish that have no business being in that small a space. I’ve set up 5-gallon tanks myself for bettas and nano fish, and done right they can look absolutely stunning. The key is respecting the volume and sticking to species actually suited for it.

    Are you looking for ideas on which fish to put in your 5-gallon tank? Choosing fish for this aquarium size can take some planning because there aren’t that many species that will do well in such a small tank.

    In this article, I’ll introduce you to 13 of the best fish and shrimp species that you can keep in your 5-gallon aquarium and give you some good advice on setting up and maintaining your nano tank. So let’s get started!

    The 13 Best Fish For A 5 Gallon Tank

    There aren’t many species for freshwater aquariums of this size, but you can still find some great options. Below is my video for you visual learners. I go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like the content, give us a sub on our YouTube channel.

    In this list, I’ll introduce you to the best fish and shrimp species for your 5-gallon aquarium. For each of the species, I’ll provide you with some important information and facts like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Water Temperature
    • Swimming Level

    As with pretty much every aquarium fish, a larger tank would be better, but all of these awesome animals can do great in a 5-gallon tank if you provide them with the right care.

    So let’s meet the 13 best fish and shrimp!

    1. Betta

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Agressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Asia, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia
    • Temperature: 75-80ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Betta fish are one of the best freshwater fish for a nano tank and that’s why they are so popular in the fishkeeping hobby. These beautiful fish are available in a bunch of different varieties with different color patterns and fin shapes.

    You might know them as the Siamese fighting fish because the males are really aggressive towards other males, that’s why you should only keep one male in a tank. Bettas have big personalities and make awesome pets.

    They like to play and can even be taught a few simple tricks like jumping right out of the water. A 5-gallon tank is perfect for a betta, just be sure to set it up with a filter and a heater.

    2. Guppy

    Guppy Fish
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: The Caribbean and Northeastern countries of South America
    • Temperature: 63-82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Guppies are an awesome and often overlooked nano fish species that can be kept in a 5-gallon aquarium. These fish come in all sorts of different colors and are really easy to breed because they are livebearers.

    In a 5-gallon tank, the population can grow really quick, so a good option is to keep just a trio of males. The males are usually easy to spot because they are smaller, have longer fins, and are more colorful than the females.

    3. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inch
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Chilli, or mosquito rasboras (video source) as they are also known are awesome little fish for a 5-gallon tank. They have really vibrant color and are peaceful enough to keep with inverts like shrimp and snails.

    Chilli rasboras are one of the smallest fish you can get. They do great in a 5-gallon tank and it is best to keep them without other species that might outcompete them for food. They are a great fish for a no heater setup. They are able to thrive in room temperature homes without a heater. They are arguably the best looking coldwater fish you can purchase at this size.

    4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

    White Cloud Minnow
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: China
    • Temperature: 58-72ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    White cloud minnows are beautiful and peaceful fish that do best in cooler water than your standard tropical setup. Although these fish will do better in a larger aquarium, 5 gallons is about their minimum tank size.

    A small group of about 4 of these fish can be kept in 5-gallon fish tanks with good filtration and regular maintenance. This is another fish where a heater is not necessary.

    5. Scarlet Badis

    Scarlet Badis
    • Scientific Name: Dario dario
    • Adult Size: 0.5-0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-agressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Asia
    • Temperature: 64-79ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, Midwater

    Scarlet Badis are amazing tiny fish with great colors. They are one of the best fish for more experienced fish keepers. Scarlet badis fish don’t feed well on processed food and will need to be fed frozen or live foods to stay healthy.

    They are shy little creatures that aren’t good at competing with other fish, so it is best to keep these little jewels in their own tank and to watch to make sure they are eating well. The perfect setup would be one male with a group of females.

    6. Dwarf Pea Puffer

    • Scientific Name: Carinotetradon travancoricus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Agressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live and frozen foods
    • Origin: Asia, India
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Dwarf Pea puffers (video source) are one of the coolest little fish species available in the hobby. These fish have sharp teeth and are true carnivores so it is best to keep them on their own without any other species as tank mates. Shrimp are definitely not safe with these tiny but aggressive fish.

    One of these fish will make a great pet for a 5-gallon tank. Dwarf puffers need live and/or frozen foods like brine shrimp, micro-worms, bloodworms, and snails. These fish love to explore so consider growing some live plants in their tank. Some floating plants will also bring out the best of their personality.

    7. Celestial Pearl Danio

    CELESTIAL PEARL DANIO
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inch
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Asia, Myanmar, Thailand
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Celestial pearl danios are one of the most popular fish species for small aquariums because they’re just so pretty and interesting to watch. These small fish look amazing in heavily planted nano tanks.

    CPDs are shy little fish that can be kept quite safely with shrimps as tank mates. Adult males have the best colors and can be pretty territorial so make sure there are some live plants in the tank to break up their line of sight with other fish.

    8. Cherry Shrimp

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    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed shrimp pellets, algae wafers, vegetables
    • Origin: Taiwan, Asia
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Cherry shrimp are a great alternative to fish for your 5-gallon tank. You can keep quite a few of these peaceful and fascinating little creatures in your tank without overstocking.

    It is best to keep a group of at least ten cherry shrimp together in a shrimp-only tank because most freshwater aquarium fish can potentially injure or eat them. Cherry shrimps are ideal animals for aquascaped planted aquariums.

    9. Amano Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed shrimp pellets, algae wafers, vegetables
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Temperature: 65-85ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Even though Amano shrimp are not as colorful as cherry shrimp, they are one of the best fish tank cleaners and are also super interesting in their own right. Amano shrimp scavenge and love feeding on algae and decaying plant material, so they are perfect for planted tanks.

    Unfortunately, Amano shrimp can easily be hurt by other tank mates. Although there a few fish species that they can be kept with, a shrimp only tank can be great fun too. They will not cross bred with other shrimp types.

    10. Female Betta

    Female Betta Group
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Asia, Thailand, Vietnam, Cambodia
    • Temperature: 75-80ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Female betta fish are a lot less popular in the hobby than males, but they do have a bunch of great advantages. Female bettas are a lot smaller than males, their fins aren’t as big and their colors aren’t as bright. On the plus side, female betta fish tend to be a lot less aggressive than males, which means you can keep more than one of them in the same tank.

    11. Endler’s Livebearer

    Endler's Livebearer
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.25 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Omnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Venezuela, South America
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Endler’s livebearers look a lot like guppies but they are not actually the same fish species. These are peaceful fish, although females can be a little aggressive towards one another if you don’t have enough of them to spread the aggression.

    Livebearers breed very easily in home freshwater aquariums, so you can expect a lot of babies if you keep both males and females together in the same tank. The males are smaller and more colorful than the females, so many aquarists choose to keep males only.

    12. Ember Tetra

    Ember Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
    • Origin: Brazil, South America
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Ember tetras are awesome aquarium fish for small tanks. They are peaceful, stay small, and have great colors.

    These fish prefer planted tanks where they can feel more comfortable in their environment. Growing some live aquarium plants can also be very helpful in maintaining good water quality in small setups.

    13. Emerald Dwarf Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Microrasbora erythromicron
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful-Semi-aggressive
    • Diet: Omnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods and sinking pellets
    • Origin: Myanmar, Asia
    • Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, Midwater

    The emerald dwarf rasbora (video source) is an amazing fish species for your 5-gallon tank. These little guys need higher pH water to thrive and appreciate a densely planted tank. They can be pretty shy so the live plants will help them to feel more secure and act out their natural behaviors.

    Why Choose A Tank This Small?

    There is a general rule in the fishkeeping hobby that the bigger the tank, the better it is for your fish. Many new fishkeepers think a smaller aquarium is easier to keep than a larger one, but this isn’t actually true.

    Small fish tanks have a number of benefits though, especially if you have limited space or want a tank for your desk. Maintaining a small fish tank can be quite challenging, so I usually recommend these aquariums to more experienced fish keepers.

    The fact is though, that as long as you put in the research, and keep up with your maintenance, there’s no reason you can’t be successful in keeping your pets healthy and your miniature underwater world looking great.

    How To Set Up This Size of Aquarium

    Now that you’ve met some of the best fish for 5-gallon aquariums, it’s time to learn more about setting up their home, so let’s get started! If you want to skip all of this and get a ready-to-run aquarium, I would suggest looking into a Fluval Spec V.

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    Filtration

    The challenge with keeping a small aquarium is keeping the water healthy and safe for your pets. The smaller the amount of water, the faster things can go wrong in there. Your first line of defense here is good filtration!

    You absolutely have to have a filter for your 5-gallon tank, there’s no getting around it. But what kind of filter should you get? Well, there are many great options out there, including, hang-on back, internal power filters, and sponge filters.

    You can even use a small internal power filter AND a sponge filter, just remember that your space in the tank is limited and you want to keep the current gentle. If you do use a power filter, make sure it is fitted with a pre-filter sponge to avoid your fish or shrimp being sucked up through the intake.

    Heating

    Another important piece of equipment that you will need is a heater. Temperatures will swing quickly in small tanks, and that’s why you need a heater to maintain the stable temperature that your fish prefer. You should also install a thermometer to keep an eye on your heater’s performance.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    The most important part of your tank maintenance routine with a 5-gallon tank is to perform regular water changes. As a rough guide, a water change of 20-30% of the volume of your tank every week or 2 is recommended. The size of the water change and how often you need to do them will vary though depending on a couple of factors like:

    • How heavily stocked your tank is (number and size of fish)
    • The quality of your filtration
    • How many plants do you have in the tank

    When putting new water back into your tank, make sure it’s the same temperature as your aquarium to avoid shocking your livestock. Always treat the water with a conditioner before adding it to your tank to neutralize any harmful chemicals.

    Water Quality

    Performing regular water changes and running a good quality filter are the first steps towards maintaining great water in your 5-gallon aquarium, but there are a few other things you should be doing to keep your water parameters in line.

    Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

    Solid waste tends to build up on the bottom of the tank in time, and this should be cleaned up when you’re doing your water changes. Go ahead and use a gravel vacuum to suck up all that dirt and uneaten food while you’re removing water.

    When it comes to feeding your fish, try not to supply more food than your fish can consume right away (within a few minutes). That way you don’t have to worry about the food rotting away in your small tank.

    Algae is a natural, but sometimes annoying part of fish keeping. You can use an algae scraper to keep your glass clean. Unfortunately, this aquarium is too small to consider an algae clean up crew. The best clean up crew member would be an amano shrimp, however, your Betta will likely hunt it down given the lack of space and stimulation your betta fish will have. You could upgrade to a 10 or 20 gallon tank to recruit clean up members.

    Water Testing

    Testing your water regularly is the best way to monitor your water parameters. The most important things to monitor are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels.

    Keep a close eye on your ammonia and nitrite levels. These should read zero to indicate that the nitrogen cycle is running properly in your small aquarium. Testing is easy with a liquid test kit or some strip tests that you can find at your local fish keeping store.

    Mixing Different Types In the Aquarium

    Due to the size of a 5 gallon aquarium, it is best to stick to one species of fish. The best fish that do well in a tank this size are going to be nano fish. Nano fish are fish that are going to be 2 inches or less in length. Most of these fish are schooling fish. They will need a group of 4 to 6 fish to do well. Because of the schooling requirement, you will be limiting to picking one fish species for your setup.

    Not if you chose a Betta fish, you only be able to house this freshwater aquarium fish. You can add other inverts like aquarium snails, but the fish itself adds a lot of bioload to an already small tank.

    Growing Plants

    Many of the fish on this list will do best in a planted small tank because the structure creates great hiding places and shelter that makes the fish feel more secure. This helps the fish behave more naturally and lowers their stress levels.

    Another huge benefit of keeping fish with live aquatic plants in your freshwater tank is their usefulness in lowering nitrates in the water. This helps keep the water quality good for your pets. Here are a few examples of great plants that would work for nano tank like this:

    If you’ve never tried before, growing live plants can be really easy, so go ahead and check out my aquarium plant growing guides for more information.

    Lighting for a Planted Tank

    If you pick the Fluval 5, you will have the light you need in order to grow low light/low energy plants. If you build your own 5 gallon tank, or want to take a step up to a better light, you can look up specialty planted tank led systems.

    If you are looking for a quick recommendation, consider the Current USA Serene RBG lights. It’s easy to use, has the PAR and spectrum output, and is reasonably affordable.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    Where To Buy Items

    Most of the fish on this list are easy to find at local aquarium stores, but nano fish can be a little harder to track down sometimes.

    Flipaquatics.com is a trusted online fish supplier that I recommend. They keep pretty much all of the fish on this list!

    They put all their livestock through a 30-day quarantine and have an amazing live arrival guarantee which takes so much of the stress out of transporting small, fragile fish.

    FAQS

    How many pets can you keep in this size aquarium?

    In the aquarium hobby, 5 gallons is considered pretty small, and aquarists need to be careful not to overstock their tank. So how many fish is too many fish in small tanks?

    There is an old rule of thumb that says you can keep 1 inch of fish for every gallon in the tank. This is only a very rough guideline, and depending on your setup, you might be able to keep more fish or less.

    The guideline is a useful start for the fish in this list, as long as you have good filtration, and stay on top of maintenance.

    Is this size of aquarium big enough for 2 fish?

    You can keep 2 fish in a 5-gallon aquarium, provided they are suited for such a small tank. Tiny species like the dwarf rasboras and danios can do great in small schools of 2 or more in a 5-gallon fish tank.

    What varieties can I put in my aquarium?

    Your options are a little limited when it comes to stocking a 5-gallon tank because most of the freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby need a much bigger fish tank. Any of the amazing fish in this list can be kept as long as you have all the necessary equipment and stay on top of your maintenance schedule.

    What else can live in this tank?

    Apart from the great fish on my list, you can also keep red cherry shrimp or other dwarf freshwater shrimp, freshwater snails, or even one or two African dwarf frogs in a 5-gallon tank

    Is this tank big enough for a betta?

    5 gallons is a great size for a betta fish tank. Just remember to pick up a heater and a filter for your betta fish, and keep up with regular tank maintenance to keep your pet happy and healthy.

    Final Thoughts

    Keeping fish in a 5-gallon tank is a fascinating and fun hobby. It does take a little discipline and effort but as long as you stick to the species on this list, and provide them with the care they need, you can create your own amazing miniature aquatic environment.

    Have fun with it, and comment below with any questions! If you are looking for fish for a 10-gallon tank, check out my other post. We also have a list for 20 gallon fish too!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Koi Betta: The Ultimate Guide to the Marble Betta’s 6 Types

    Koi Betta: The Ultimate Guide to the Marble Betta’s 6 Types

    Koi bettas are among the most visually striking fish I’ve encountered in 25 years in this hobby. The marble gene that drives their color patterns means no two fish are identical, and they can even change appearance over time โ€” which I find endlessly fascinating. If you’re going to keep a single betta, a koi pattern is one of the most rewarding choices you can make.

    Koi bettas are genuinely one of the most fascinating fish you can keep โ€” not just because of their stunning multicolored patterns, but because those patterns can change over time. What most guides don’t mention is that koi bettas are actually marble bettas carrying a genetic quirk called the “jumping gene,” or transposon, that causes pigment cells to shift position as the fish matures. A betta that looks mostly white with orange patches when you buy it might develop deep black marbling over the next year. I’ve watched this happen firsthand and it never stops being interesting. Their care requirements are identical to other betta varieties โ€” heated filtered tank, quality diet, plenty of hiding spots โ€” but the genetics make them a uniquely rewarding fish to observe long-term. Here are the 6 main types and what sets each apart.

    Species Overview

    The Koi Betta is considered a fancy variety of your traditional betta fish. What really means them stand out is their coloration.

    Scientific NameBetta splendens
    Common Name (Species)Koi Betta, Marble Betta
    FamilyOsphronemidae
    OriginAsia
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityActive, social
    SizeUp to 3 inches
    Lifespan2-3 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll Areas
    Minimum Tank Size5 Gallons
    Temperature Range70 โ€“ 80 Degrees F
    pH Range7 pH
    Filtration/Flow RateClam to Moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layers, easy to breed
    CompatibilityPeaceful community species
    Ok For Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origins And Habitat

    Koi Bettas originated from Orville Gulley, a Betta breeder. Both an unusual and intriguing story surrounds these fish. He originally started breeding them in peanut butter jars while in prison!

    The Marble Betta was born from a failed attempt at trying to create the first butterfly black betta. It was discovered that it had the marble gene and after examining this new discovery, Gully submitted some of these new Betta variants to the International Betta Congress, well-known hobbyists, and book authors who have written about Betta fish.

    The Marble Betta became a recognized Betta breed and took on the commercial moniker “Koi Betta” as a trading name since the Betta’s colors and shine resemble that of Koi fish.

    There are no Koi Bettas in the wild as a result of their origins. They are the result of a genetic mutation. The mutation is a jumping gene, a DNA sequence that can change its position within the genome. As a result, the colors of the Koi Betta can change over time as they age.

    Appearance (What Do Koi Betta Fish Look Like?)

    The Koi Betta is a Palkat Betta variety so their shape exhibits a Palkat, however it’s their colors that really stand out. The best way to explain how they look like is to go over all the various varieties of koi bettas.

    Types

    There are 6 types of koi bettas you will usually see store online or in specialty stores. They are the following:

    • Fancy
    • Galaxy
    • Candy
    • Tiger
    • Nemo Palkat
    • Samurai

    Fancy

    Fancy Marble Plakat Betta

    A Fancy Marble Betta is a fish that exhibits at minimum 3 difference colors

    Galaxy

    Galaxy Koi Betta

    A Galaxy Koi Betta is the most common type you will find. They get the name Galaxy from their iridescent scaling that shimmer when they are moving

    Candy

    Candy Koi Betta Fish

    Candy Koi Bettas are characterized by their black, red, blue or yellow colors. The name comes from looking like a candy treat. Personally, I like to call them ice cream bettas because they remind of sorbert and ice cream bars.

    Tiger

    Tiger Koi Betta

    A tiger betta has a striking yellow body with black or blue colors to compliment it.

    Nemo

    Nemo Koi Betta

    The nemo betta is a marble with orange red and blacks they generally are the second most popular koi betta you will find

    Samurai

    Samurai Koi Betta

    A Samurai Koi Betta is the rarest of them all. It has the desired dragon scaling with the marble. They come in a variety of colors.

    Note that there can be combined varieties in the trade. it’s not uncommon to find a Candy Galaxy Betta has an example. You will also find fancy tail type varieties. Crowntails and halfmoons tend to be the most common. The fancier the fins, the more delicate your betta will be so keep this in mind.

    How Big Can They Get?

    Koi bettas are no different than traditional bettas when it comes to size. They can grow up to 3 inches in length.

    Lifespan

    Just like other Betta fish, the koi betta will have an average lifespan of 2-3 years. Optimal water conditions, low stress, and great nutrition will extend lifespan and quality of life.

    Temperament And Activity Level

    Most Koi Betta fall into the Plakat Betta variety. These betta fish are closer to natural bettas in the wild. As a result, they are more lively and athletic to their fancy finned brothers and sisters. This also makes them more aggressive than the fancy style varieties. This opens them up to larger aquariums and community tanks as they are able to hold their own with more active fish species.

    What Are Good Tank Mates For Them?

    When looking for good tanks mates for your Koi Betta, it is no different than any other betta. You are looking for tank mates that are peaceful, keep to themselves, and enjoy a planted tank setup.

    Good Tank Mates (Species and Inverts)

    The following are excellent choices for your Koi Betta:

    Species To Avoid

    You want to avoid any fish that is semi-aggressive to aggressive. Any fish that can fit your bettas head in its mouth should also be avoided. Examples of fish to avoid would be:

    • Cichlids
    • Aggresive barbs like tiger barbs
    • Fish with long colorful fins

    What Do They Eat?

    There is no specialized diet for a Koi Betta. They are no different than a traditional betta. The same hierarchy is involved with frozen>pellet>flake food. Fish can get bored of eating the same food though. Let’s look at what you can feed your Koi Betta.

    What To Feed Them

    I generally don’t work with flake food even with bettas. I work with pellet betta fish food at minimum and my go to is Northfin. If I’m going for freeze dried,I prefer feeding my bettas blackworms and soaking with VitaChem to provide extra nutrients for my Betta’s immune system.

    If you are looking for live foods, check with your local fish stores. You might get lucky and find one that offers live blackworms. These are great for bettas. Bloodworms are more available, but blackworms are simply fantastic if you can find them.

    You can order live blackworms online in bulk if you are extra brave with having worms shipped to you ๐Ÿ˜…. Brine shrimp can also work, but lack the nutrient punch that blackworms provide for these freshwater fish.

    Your Betta is also an algae eater, so they will also accept algae wafers.

    How To Set Up A Suitable Tank (Tank Requirements)

    Here’s what you need to keep in mind when setting up your koi bettas’ fish tanks. We also included a video from our YouTube channel for more visuals. Please sure to subscribe to our channel if you like our content. We post new videos every week.

    What Is A Proper Tank Size?

    It would be best to have a new tank of at least 2.5 to 5 gallons for your koi betta fish. Please do not make the mistake of putting these long finned fish in a small bowl, like children’s films and comics; this will stress them out and decrease their lifespan significantly, and they already have a short lifespan.

    Heater

    Koi bettas originate in warm Southeast Asian regions such as Thailand and Indonesia. As such, it’s important to provide a submersible heater in their tank that will allow the water to remain between 76 and 80 degrees F.

    Be careful not to let the temperature get too high โ€” this might cause your koi bettas to age faster. On the other hand, if the temperature is too low, your fish are at greater risk of infections.

    So what do you do? Choose a heater that comes with a thermostat. That way, you don’t have to worry about upsetting the balance.

    Decor

    The decor you choose for your koi betta should be smooth to not hurt your fish. If you’re thinking of installing artificial plants, go for those made of silk. Also, consider installing some tunnels and caves for your koi bettas to hide in.

    Live Aquarium Plants

    The natural habitat of koi betta fish is heavily vegetated. As such, you should provide many plants which your fish can use as hiding or sleeping spots. This is particularly important if you put them in a community tank.

    Substrates

    Gravel and sand are the best substrate choices for koi bettas. However, it would help if you aimed to provide a substrate that promotes the growth of your chosen live plants like an active soil.

    Lighting

    The koi bettas follow a similar schedule as humans; they sleep at night and wake up during the day. Therefore, when it comes to the lighting conditions, you don’t need to put extra effort into creating artificial light for your tank. All you need to do is turn off the lights before heading off to bed.

    Tank Position

    You must be careful with where you place your koi bettas’ tank. If it’s too close to the window, the tank will heat up or cool down too quickly (depending on the season). For the same reasons, avoid putting your koi bettas near sources of heat, such as radiators.

    Additionally, place the tank on a flat and stable surface.

    Water Quality And Tank Conditions

    Water quality is very important for your Koi to be healthy and avoid common fish diseases. Let’s dive into it more below.

    Which Filters Are Most Suitable For This Type of Fish?

    Koi betta fish need gentle filters in their aquarium to emulate their natural habitat. A sponge filter can work great, but may not provide enough filtration in a full planted setup. Adjustable filters are best as this allows for optimal current creation. Power filters usually can be adjusted for lower flow and you can place a sponge on the intake to prevent the filter from suck the fins of your Betta.

    Whatever you do, though, don’t skip out on the filter; it keeps the aquarium water clean and prevents the buildup of toxic waste.

    Water Conditions โ€“ Parameters

    To successfully sustain a Betta fish ecosystem, you must keep certain parameters in check. Here’s what you should know:

    Water Temperature

    For Koi Bettas, the ideal water temperature should be around 76 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. The waters in Vietnam and Indonesia are mainly warm with neutral and slightly acidic conditions. And, to allow the fish to rest and feed on, make sure you change the water at least twice a month and keep some live plants around.

    Water Hardness And pH Range

    Koi betta fishes are used to living in soft water conditions. For pH, you should keep it slightly acidic from 6.0 to 8.0 in the aquarium.

    Not only that, you need to ensure that they can swim up to the aquarium surface to take in oxygen. Koi bettas have respiratory organs using which they can convert oxygen from the air into energy. And so, if the oxygen saturation within the tank is low, they should be able to swim to the surface to obtain it.

    Breeding

    Breeding Betta Fish is a separate post in itself. If you’re looking to breed healthy Marble Bettas, be ready for a slow and nerve-wracking journey. These fishes are easy to breed, but if you want a specific color pattern or variation, you’re going to have to be very selective of the partners selected for the Koi Betta.

    To keep this all in one article, I’m going to supply this great video from Ale’s GuppiLine. I’ll provide some bullet points below to summarize

    The video above covers breeding in general. With Koi Bettas, ss their genes are said to be codominant, pairing them with solid fishes will rarely spawn fishes with unique marble patterns. Almost nine out of 10 times, you are likely to get solid-colored offspring.

    Similarly, if you cross breed two Marble Bettas, it doesn’t necessarily mean your breeding pair will produce a tank full of marble offspring. In fact, the possibilities are endless. Crossing marble genes with one another will give you a range of fry from dark or light solid colors to marbles and sometimes even butterflies.

    When a male koi betta fish is ready to mate, he will start to build bubble nests (a healthy male will also do this sometimes, even when not in mating mode). The male might get aggressive towards a female koi betta fish when she tries to approach his bubble nest.

    How to Distinguish between Male and Female

    How can you tell the gender of your betta fish? For starters, looking at the fins is one way of differentiating male betta from females.

    Female betta fish tend to have smaller fins (by which we mean thinner and sometimes shorter fins) than their male counterparts. However, the fins of females can also be of the same size in length, but male bettas will always have bulkier ventral fins.

    Moreover, the physique of the female betta fish is more streamlined than the male koi betta. You can also look for an egg spot (white lump) which adult female betta fish develop near their ventral fins. Don’t be alarmed if your female Betta doesn’t have one; it simply suggests that they are still very young.

    Furthermore, the body color of male betta fish is comparatively brighter than that of females. Male koi betta tends to have larger heads than females, and they have a curved shape which makes their body appear bulky as opposed to the streamlined look of females.

    Where To Buy

    You will probably find koi bettas listed as an exotic type at your local pet stores. If not, you might be able to order them online.

    However, these beautiful fish really deserve to be seen upfront before you purchase them, so we’d suggest finding pet stores where you can do that or a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) vendor. You can click on the link below to view WYSWIYG Betta Fish available, which includes Koi Bettas!

    WYSIWYG Available!
    Betta Fish

    Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

    Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online

    Koi Bettas are one of the more expensive types of Betta Fish. They can go up to $65 apiece, with the lowest price usually being around $30. The price might be even higher if you opt for a breeder quality male.

    Closing Thoughts

    The current popularity of bettas is undeniable. Their wide array of color options and their distinct behavioral traits truly set them apart, as does their hardy build. But the ease of caring for these beautiful fish is what makes them so special. If you are looking for a general overview of Bettas, check out this article.

    Got any questions about Koi Bettas? Leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • 9 Best Bottom Feeder Fish for Freshwater Aquariums (And What They Actually Need)

    9 Best Bottom Feeder Fish for Freshwater Aquariums (And What They Actually Need)

    Bottom feeder fish are some of the most useful additions you can make to a freshwater community tank, and I’ve kept most of the popular species over the years. The biggest misconception I run into is that they’ll “clean the tank” on their own โ€” they won’t. They’re excellent at their specific jobs, but they still need proper feeding, appropriate tankmates, and the right substrate to thrive.

    Bottom feeder fish are among the most misunderstood in the freshwater hobby โ€” and that misunderstanding leads to a lot of preventable problems. After 25 years keeping fish, the thing I hear most often from beginners is that they added a pleco or a cory to “clean up” the tank. It doesn’t work that way. Bottom feeders need to be actively fed just like every other fish, they have specific substrate requirements, and some of them get far larger than their tank can support. This guide covers 9 of the best bottom feeder species for freshwater aquariums, with honest notes on what each one actually needs rather than what the pet store might tell you.

    What Are Bottom Feeders?

    Bottom feeder fish are fish that spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank. Bottom feeders are some of my favorite species out there because they often have very interesting looks and behaviors.

    Some species are fast and active, but many can be pretty inactive and some species are shy and difficult to see. They can be super useful in your aquarium though because they are happy to feed on food that has sunk to the bottom of the tank.

    Each species does have its own preferred diet of course, and it’s important that you make sure that they are well fed (more on this later).

    The Benefits Of Bottom Feeders

    Bottom-feeder species are great for adding activity and life to the bottom of your aquarium. This can make your tank a much more lively environment that is even more fascinating to observe!

    Apart from their interesting looks and behaviors, bottom-feeder fish have a bunch of benefits in the tank. Some species like the Otocinclus catfish are master tank cleaners because they feed on the algae that grow on the walls of fish tanks and the ornaments inside them.

    Other bottom feeders like Cory Catfish feed by searching the substrate and any tight spaces in the aquarium for uneaten food which helps to keep your tank clean.

    The Nine Best to Choose From

    There are so many great bottom feeders out there, but these are definitely the favorites that I can recommend to any fishkeeper. Remember to take note of their needs to make sure they will work out in your tank! I’ve also included a few common bottom feeders that you should avoid.

    Check out our video below from our YouTube channel. If you like this content, subscribe to our channel for additional videos. We are releasing videos every week. We go into more detail in the blog post below.

    1. Corydoras Catfish

    Panda Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-3 Inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 + gallons for dwarf species, 20+ gallons for others
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed live and frozen foods, Sinking pellets and wafers
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Cory Catfish or Corydoras are great little schooling catfish for the community tank. These bottom feeders for freshwater aquariums are a favorite in the aquarium hobby and there are many different species to choose from.

    Some species like the Dwarf Cory Catfish and the Pygmy Cory Catfish can be kept in nano aquariums as small as a 10 gallon fish tank. Most Corydoras catfish species will prefer a 20 gallon tank or larger though. They are social fish so be sure to keep at least 6 together in the same aquarium.

    Cory cats are great fun to watch as they cruise around the tank together, feeding on food lying on and in the substrate. A common mistake that fishkeepers make is to think that you don’t need to feed these fish. In fact, Cory catfish do best on a balanced diet of dried and live/frozen foods.

    2. Otocinclus Catfish

    Octocinclus Fish
    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Diet: Algae
    • Origin: South America, Venezuela, Argentina
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater, Top

    Otos are very peaceful fish for the community tank. These little catfish are algae eaters, which means they are great for keeping your glass and ornaments clean. These nano fish are very popular in the aquarium trade and will do very well as long as you are able to maintain good water quality.

    Mature aquariums with a healthy amount of algae provide the best aquatic environment for this fish species. You can also supplement their diet with algae wafers and slices of vegetables like zucchini.

    3. Dojo Loach

    Dojo Loach
    • Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus
    • Adult Size: 10 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55+ gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed live and frozen foods, Sinking pellets and wafers
    • Origin: Asia, China, Japan, Korea, Russia
    • Temperature: 59-77ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Dojo Loaches are great fish for larger aquariums. These fish have the interesting habit of increasing their activity levels when the weather is changing, kind of like your own little weather forecaster! This has earned them the name of weather loach as well.

    Apart from just the regular Dojo Loach, there is also a golden variety available in the hobby. These fish are active bottom feeders that love to search the substrate for uneaten food at the bottom of the tank.

    4. Bristlenose Pleco

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus cirrhosus
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-agressive
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 + gallons
    • Diet: Vegetarian, Algae
    • Origin: South America
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Bristlenose Pleco fish are super interesting-looking catfish that fit in perfectly with most community tanks. They are peaceful bottom-dwelling fish, although they do tend to be aggressive towards other members of the same species.

    For this reason, it’s better not to keep more than one adult in the same tank. These amazing bottom dwellers do a great job of keeping the tank clean by searching the substrate for algae and food leftovers.

    5. Clown Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Panaqolus maccus
    • Adult Size: 3.5 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Diet: Vegetarian, feed vegetables and algae wafers
    • Origin: South America, Venezuela
    • Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    These beautiful bottom-feeder fish (video source) need plenty of driftwood in their tank to feed on. They love slices of vegetables like zucchini and cucumbers and also enjoy frozen foods.

    These fish are very peaceful and do great in community tanks. They do produce quite a lot of waste though so the tank does need to have decent filtration.

    6. Freshwater Shrimp

    Cherry Shrimp
    • Scientific Name: Caridina & Neocaridina spp.
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy-Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5+ gallons (20+ gallons recommended)
    • Diet: Omnivorous, Algae, Sinking flakes & Pellets
    • Origin: Asia, North America
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The freshwater shrimp is an amazing aquatic animal that has become incredibly popular in the modern fish-keeping hobby. There are loads of different species available, and some eat algae while others will prefer pellet foods.

    Shrimp will only get along with a few types of fish like Otocinclus catfish. Most carnivorous and omnivorous fish will see your shrimp as a food source, so many hobbyists prefer to keep shrimp-only tanks to be on the safe side.

    7. Kuhli Loach

    Kuhli Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Pangio Kuhlii
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, Feed sinking pellets, wafers, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73-86ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Kuhli Loaches are great-looking little bottom feeders. This fish species has some really silly antics and is great fun to watch when not hiding. They are nocturnal fish and tend to hide out during the day so you won’t see them every time you take a look at your tank.

    Kuhli loaches are one of the best bottom-feeder fish in the hobby. They use their whiskers to locate food on the bottom of the tank and do a great job of picking up scraps of uneaten fish food. These fish will do best in a group of at least five. They should be kept on a sand or fine gravel substrate and love plenty of hiding spaces in the tank.

    8. Panda Garra

    • Scientific Name: Garra flavatra
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed wafers, and frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Panda Garras are very peaceful fish that prefer high flow tank conditions (video source). They are pretty new to the fish-keeping hobby but already very popular. They are actually Cyprinids from the carp species family.

    Panda Garras get their name from their bold, panda-like stripes. These fish feed on biofilm and algae that grow on rocks at the bottom of the tank, but you should supplement their diet with some frozen foods and wafers for a balanced diet.

    9. Clown Loach

    Clown Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Botia macracantha
    • Adult Size: 12 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Southeast Asia, Indonesia, Borneo, Malaysia, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Clown Loaches are a really cute bottom-feeder fish species for large aquariums. They are active but very peaceful fish that are great in community tanks. These fish like to school, so make sure you have at least 4 of them in the same aquarium. They are also great snail eating fish.

    Other Great Types To Consider

    Below is a list of honorable mentions. They are as popular or provide as much utility as the ones above, but are worth mentioning. Check them out below:

    • Synodontis catfish- This is a great bottom feeder for African cichlid tanks in particular.
    • Siamese Algae Eater– These active algae-eaters are great bottom feeders for community tanks. Keep these fish in groups of 5 or more in a 40-gallon tank or larger.
    • Twig Catfish- These are some of the most interesting looking bottom-feeding fish in the hobby. They grow to 6 inches in length but are safe to keep with small, peaceful community fish.
    • Pictus Catfish– These interesting little South American catfish are peaceful but very shy fish. They have pretty big mouths and will eat any small fish in your tank, so make sure they are the smallest fish in the aquarium.
    • Yoyo Loach-These fish have markings on their sides that look just like the word yoyo. They are mostly peaceful but will love snacking on shrimp and snails in the tank.
    • Zebra Loach– These are great little freshwater bottom-feeders for the community tank. The zebra loach is a peaceful fish that grows to just 4 inches or so.

    Bottom Feeders To Avoid

    Not all bottom feeder fish are suitable for your standard home aquarium. The following few species are not great choices for most fishkeepers:

    Common Pleco – Hypostomus plecostomus

    Common Pleco in Aquarium

    The Common Pleco is one of those fish that are probably more popular than they should be. These bottom-feeding fish can grow to sizes of over 20 inches in length which comes as a surprise to many fish keepers.

    This is an easy mistake to make because they usually measure just a few inches in length when you see them at your local fish store. Unfortunately, these fish are often released into local ponds and rivers when they get too big, and they have become quite a nuisance in the wild1.

    They are great fish, but only for keepers with very large tanks who can take care of them properly.

    Chinese Algae Eater – Gyrinocheilus aymonieri

    The Chinese Algae Eater grows to about 10 inches or a little more in length. These fish grow fast and catch a lot of fishkeepers off guard when they get too big for their tank.

    They are good algae eaters but have a tendency to get pretty aggressive towards other fish in the tank. In fact, Chinese algae eaters will even attack other fish to eat the slime coating off of their skin and scales.

    These aren’t very good-looking fish either and you’re much better off choosing another fish from our list!

    Tiger Shovelnose Catfish – Pseudoplatystoma fasciatum

    Tiger Shovelnose Catfish in an Aquarium

    The Tiger Shovelnose Catfish is a really cool-looking fish that many people have made the mistake of buying. It’s hard to imagine that the 4-inch long little cutie you just brought home can grow to over 3 feet in length!

    These catfish are carnivorous and have big mouths. This means the rest of your fish are going to be eaten as soon as the Tiger Shovelnose is big enough to swallow them.

    Avoid this species unless you have a very large aquarium (200 gallons), and are prepared to care for a very large carnivorous catfish!

    How To Set Up Your Tank

    Before buying any bottom-feeding fish, it’s really important to read up on its needs. Here is some basic information on setting up for bottom-feeding fish:

    Filtration

    Running a good quality filter in your aquarium is absolutely essential. Some fishkeepers make the mistake of thinking their bottom feeder fish will keep the tank clean so they don’t need a filter. Big mistake!

    But which kind of filter should you choose? There are many options available, but as a general rule, pick a model that can process all the water in your tank at least 4 times every hour.

    Some bottom-feeder fish like the Panda Garra like a stronger current in the tank, and for them, you can bump up the flow rate to as much as 10 times your tank volume per hour.

    Water Quality

    Good water quality is what keeps fish happy and healthy in your aquarium. Remember, your pets rely on you to provide them with a great environment to live in.

    Once you’ve set up your tank and got your filter running, you’re going to want to start the process of fishless cycling. Once your tank is cycled and you have stocked it with some great fish, you’re going to want to get into the routine of performing a regular partial water change.

    This means taking out a percentage of the water in your tank every week or two and replacing it with new water that you have treated with a conditioner. The amount of water you need to replace is going to depend on a couple of things like:

    • The size of your aquarium
    • How heavily stocked you are
    • The bioload of your fish
    • Whether you have live plants in the tank
    • How powerful your filtration is

    Testing Your Water

    In order to know how stable your water quality is in the aquarium, and whether you’ve successfully cycled the tank, you’re going to need to test for a few parameters on a regular basis.

    This is easy to do using a liquid test kit. Test the water before you do your regular water changes to know whether you’re performing regular and large enough water changes.

    Substrates

    Your choice of substrate can be pretty important for the health of your fish. This is especially true when it comes to bottom dwellers because they spend most of their time down on the bottom of the tank.

    Sure, bottom-feeder fish can be kept in open bottom tanks, but this prevents them from acting out a lot of their natural behaviors and will probably leave them feeling seriously exposed.

    Instead, choose a fine substrate like sand that allows these fish to dig through and forage in safely. Avoid using sharp substrates that can injure your fish.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Many bottom-feeder fish like loaches and cory catfish have fine whiskers known as barbels. Sharp gravel can damage these ultra-sensitive structures that are used to feel the substrate to find food.

    Some bottom-feeder fish like the Kuhli Loach do not have scales and can get their skin scratched up on sharp substrates while digging through it. This can cause infections.

    Hiding Places and Decorations

    Bottom-feeder fish are often shy creatures that love having caves and other hiding places to hang out in. You can build your own caves out of rocks if you like, just make sure that your structure is safe and stable.

    Driftwood that has holes in it, clay flowerpots, and purpose-built aquarium cave ornaments are other great ways to provide hiding places for your fish. Some bottom-dwellers, like Kuhli Loaches, will even dig themselves into the substrate to hide away and find shelter.

    The Planted Aquarium

    Growing live plants is a great way to make a really natural and healthy environment for your freshwater bottom-feeders and other fish. Keeping a planted tank can be really easy if you grow plants like Anubias and Java Ferns that don’t need any special equipment. Plants also create great places for your bottom-feeder fish to hide and look for food.

    What To Feed

    Bottom-feeder fish need to be fed a high-quality, balanced diet. Of course, different types of fish have different diets, but here are a few of the best food options available for your fish:

    Frozen foods

    Frozen foods are great for omnivorous and carnivorous bottom-feeder fish. Brine shrimp, bloodworm, and daphnia are all good examples of this food type. Frozen foods should not be the primary food source for your bottom-feeder fish but can be a great supplement.

    Live foods

    Live foods like brine shrimp, daphnia, micro worms, and mosquito larvae are great food sources for carnivorous and omnivorous fish. Fish love live food so much that it usually doesn’t get to the bottom of the tank before your other fish eat it all!

    Live Algae

    Algae eaters like Otocinclus Catfish, Siamese Algae Eaters, and Plecos have a natural diet of algae. This is great because they are able to get a healthy meal and keep your aquarium clean at the same time! Algae grow in all mature fish tanks, especially tanks with bright light and a lot of nutrients in the water.

    Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers can be a great supplementary food source for omnivorous and algae-eating fish like Clown Plecos, Otos, and Siamese Algae Eaters. Look for brands like Hikari when search for a wafer.

    Great For Bottom Feeders!
    Hikari Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

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    Shrimp Food

    Most shrimp are omnivorous creatures and there are plenty of excellent products available that are designed specifically for their needs. Shrimp food is available in gel, pellet, wafer, and stick form.

    Pellets

    These sinking pellets provide balanced nutrition for all sorts of omnivorous aquarium fish. There are plenty of good quality products available on the market, just make sure you choose something that is the right size for your fish.

    Vegetables

    Herbivorous fish like Otos and Bristlenose Plecos love vegetables. Sliced cucumbers and zucchinis are great options, but you can also use blanched peas, broccoli, and cabbage for variety.

    Where To Buy

    Most fish stores have a good variety of bottom-feeding fish for freshwater aquariums. These days, many fishkeepers prefer the convenience of buying online.

    My favorite online retailer is Flipaquatics because they offer a great range of fish at great prices. They also fully quarantine their livestock. They really care for their stock and their 100% live arrival guarantee takes so much of the stress out of buying and transporting new pets. For larger fish, check out the link above for other fish retailers.

    FAQS

    Is this type of fish good?

    Bottom feeder fish are awesome pets that can be very helpful in keeping your freshwater aquarium clean. There are a few types of bottom-feeder fish that you should avoid, but as long as you choose the right kinds for your tank, they will do great!

    Do they eat fish poop?

    Bottom-feeder fish do not eat fish poop, but rather need a good quality balanced diet. Unfortunately, you still need to clean and vacuum your tank, even if you have bottom-feeder fish.

    What do you feed them?

    Different bottom-feeder fish have different diets, depending on their species. Most types of bottom feeders can be fed on granules, pellets, wafers, sliced vegetables, and live and frozen foods.

    What Fish Can Live With This Type?

    Almost all fish can live with bottom feeders. You just have to make sure that they all enjoy the same parameters, are peaceful and are similar in size.

    What is the best bottom cleaner fish?

    There are loads of great bottom-feeder fish available in the fish-keeping hobby. Any of the fish in this list of the 9 best bottom-feeder fish could work awesome in your freshwater aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    Bottom feeder fish have a place in pretty much any home aquarium. These fish are fun to watch, look great, and work hard to keep your tank clean. If you don’t already have a few bottom feeders in your fish tank, why not pick some from our list and add them to your tank today?

    I hope you’ve enjoyed the article and please comment below if you have any questions!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.