Author: Mark Valderrama

  • How To Get Rid Of Aiptasia โ€“ Control, Prevention & Removal Guide

    How To Get Rid Of Aiptasia โ€“ Control, Prevention & Removal Guide

    Aiptasia is one of the most frustrating reef pests I’ve dealt with in my 125-gallon reef tank. These pest anemones showed up hitching a ride on live rock, and before I knew it they were spreading to my corals. I’ve personally tested most of the removal methods out there โ€” from Aiptasia-X to peppermint shrimp to berghia nudibranch โ€” and I can tell you firsthand what actually works and what doesn’t. This guide covers everything I’ve learned over 25 years of keeping reef tanks about controlling and eliminating Aiptasia for good.

    Hobbyists have been fighting the battle against Aiptasia for decades, and luckily, several solutions have been found to eradicate Aiptasia once and for all.

    What are Aiptaisa Anemones?

    What Is Aiptasia

    When setting up a new saltwater tank, it can be very exciting to find any signs of unexpected life during the nitrogen cycle and shortly after. Copepods start to show up on the glass and even algae can be an amazing discovery. Until suddenly, you find a small, clear what-seems-to-be coral.

    These ‘corals’ have long and thin tapered tentacles and might even resemble a kind of zoanthid at first. Usually, these tentacles will be attached to an oral disc that emerges from a long, translucent stalk. Sadly, more often than not, this unidentified polyp is actually a kind of pest anemone belonging to the Aiptasia genus.

    The main problem with Aiptasia Anemones is that they are both sexual and asexual; they can quickly split to create exponentially more anemones in a very small period of time. Like other species of anemone, they have stinging cells that can cause damage to nearby coral, fish, and invertebrates.

    They can also grow in very hard-to-reach places in the tank where you might not even see the problem forming. Their tentacles will grow in order to reach light, though their stalks may elongate and emerge from dark crevices within the rockwork.

    Naming And Other Pest Anemones

    In general, all species within the Aiptasia genus are simply referred to as Aiptasia even though there are several other known members; other common names include glass anemone and rock anemone (not to be confused with rock flower anemones of the Phymathidae family).

    Another type of pest anemone, Majano anemones (Anemonia manjano), may also be clumped together when talking about Aiptasia hitchhikers.

    Majano anemones are said to be easier to remove than Aiptasia, but they will both cause a headache at the end of the day. Majano anemones are, in some ways, prettier than Aiptasia and have rounded green tentacles with a purplish-pink oral disc; they are typically larger, have much more opaque flesh, and overall more vibrant colors than Aiptasia.

    Like Aiptasia, Majano anemones can quickly take over a tank and injure other corals and tankmates. Luckily, most of the removal methods are universal for pest anemones.

    How Do They Enter The Aquarium?

    Aiptasia Anemones are present in most aquarium systems. They can be very difficult to notice in dense rockwork and before you know it, you have a tank overrun by them. But how did they get there in the first place?

    These anemones are hitchhikers, just like any other algae or invertebrate that unintentionally enters the aquarium. This means that they can come in on live rock, corals, or even filter media. Once established in the tank, they can then spread to every part of it, including the filtration system and sump.

    In general, it’s not considered as an if these anemones will enter your system but a when.

    How Do You Prevent Them From Entering The Aquarium?

    Though Aiptasia Anemones will find its way into the aquarium if it wants to, there are some ways to protect your system.

    Mainly, observation and preparation are key.

    Observation And Identification

    It might sound simple, but observation is the best way to find and destroy Aiptasia before they get the chance to destroy your reef tank.

    Check and double-check new additions of live rock and coral. Use a flashlight to look in the crevices for any signs of tentacles popping up through the rockwork. Continue to check your tank daily for the next few weeks after a new addition.

    It is easiest to find pest anemones when they are extended in the water instead of when they are emersed. If possible, observe live rock and corals from a quarantine system. From there, use one of the following methods to remove it.

    One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is that they think an Aiptasia is a desirable coral and let it continue to grow. It is important to accurately identify the anemone first in order to go about fixing the problem. More often than not, any ‘lucky’ coral you see on new rock or a coral plug is actually an Aiptasia.

    Quarantine

    That being said, all new live rock and coral should be quarantined. No exceptions.

    Not only does quarantine help prevent disease and illness from entering the aquarium, but it also greatly reduces the risk of inadvertently introducing Aiptasia Anemones as well.

    Allowing two or more weeks of secluded observation will allow most hitchhikers to rear their ugly heads. It is much easier to fix these problems in a controlled setting than having to break down the rockwork and possibly filtration once put into a display. It also means that you can be more vigorous and widespread with treatments, such as chemical solutions.

    Remove Frag Plugs

    Frag Plug

    When buying new corals, they will often come on a frag plug. No matter if these corals were aqua-cultured in a controlled environment or gifted by a trusted fellow hobbyist, this frag plug should always be removed.

    For one reason or another, frag plugs are notorious for carrying in unwanted hitchhikers. Aiptasia are very quick to occupy free real estate and a frag plug is no exception. Most often, these anemones are very tiny and might only be able to be seen under a magnifying glass.

    When in doubt, throw it out.

    Source Rock

    Another way Aiptasia Anemones travels across tanks is by live rock and filter media. Many times, hobbyists share these with each other in order to seed a new tank with beneficial bacteria. Though this usually works flawlessly, there is always the chance that you’re introducing Aiptasia into the system.

    If you’re really worried about introducing pest anemones via live rock or filter media, do not use what has been in another tank. Instead, use brand new dry rock and cycle the tank with another method. This way, there is no chance of having any pests come in.

    The downside to this method is that many of the beneficial hitchhikers are lost as well, like copepods, and will need to be manually introduced later.

    How To Get Rid of Them From Your Aquarium (The Best Ways

    Aiptasia in Reef Tank

    The key to dealing with an Aiptasia outbreak in your aquarium is acting quickly and effectively as soon as you see one appear. The longer you wait to take action, the more chance they have to grow and spread throughout the reef tank.

    There are a few different methods based on the size, type, and amount of pest anemones in your saltwater tank. Whether the method works for you will also depend on several factors and Aiptasia removal could become a regular part of maintenance.

    Here are the best ways to get rid of Aiptasia Anemones from your saltwater aquarium.

    Manual Clean-Up

    Manual removal is one of the easiest methods, but also the least guaranteed way to fully remove Aiptasia from the aquarium. This is because these anemones are capable of growing from the smallest piece of flesh leftover, and it can be very easy to miss; in fact, Aiptasia only need a single remaining cell to regenerate into a new animal.

    For manual removal, you will need to be able to take the piece of rock out of the tank. Once removed, use scissors, razors, bone cutters, and whatever else you need to in order to get every last piece of anemone off of the rock. Some hobbyists split the rock in half entirely to ensure that there is no chance of the anemone coming back.

    Still, it is easy to miss other smaller Aiptasia that might have already propagated or left remnants behind.

    Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)

    Super glue is one of the easiest and least damaging ways to control Aiptasia Anemones, though this method does not work all of the time.

    This method simply involves coating the anemone in a thick sarcophagus of superglue so that it is unable to extend. Simply remove the affected piece of rock from the aquarium and apply a healthy dollop of glue.

    There are a few problems with this method, though. First, it’s not always feasible to remove the piece of rock from the reef tank. Second, the anemone is very capable of growing around the glue and out through another opening, allowing it to live; some hobbyists have even seen them come out from the other side of the rock if the opportunity presents itself.

    Super glue is most effective for removable pieces of rock and small Aiptasia that can be generously coated and sealed.

    Chemical Products

    There are many chemical solutions on the aquarium market designed to eliminate Aiptasia from the aquarium. This method can be very effective when facing large colonies of pest anemone with sizable individuals.

    Kills Aiptasia
    Aiptasia-X

    A great solution for target elimination of Aiptasia in a reef tank.

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    One of the most popular Aiptasia removal chemicals is Aiptasia-X by Red Sea. This product needs to be applied to the surface of the oral disc of the anemone, where it is then forced to be ingested. Within a few minutes, the anemone implodes on itself, preventing regrowth and larvae from spreading throughout the rest of the reef aquarium.

    Other popular brands include:

    • Joe’s Juice Aiptasia Eliminator
    • Salifert Aiptasia
    • Blue Life Aiptasia Rx
    • Reef Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide). Though not a product specifically meant for Aiptaisa, Reef Kalkwasser can be used to create a paste that can cover the disc of the anemone in a similar fashion.

    These chemicals are not effective for all reefers though, and these products can actually harm healthy corals if not applied correctly. The application can also become difficult if the anemone is situated in a hard-to-reach spot where it has time to react and retract. If only a small dosage is received, then the Aiptasia may come back stronger and start to propagate.

    Other DIY Solutions

    If you don’t have immediate access to chemical solutions, then you might need to make your own solution. It should be noted that these methods are very prone to failure and should only be done under close moderation.

    1. Lemon juice. Lemon juice has been used to successfully remove Aiptasia Anemones. Fill a syringe with lemon juice and inject it into the anemone. The acidity will theoretically cause the anemone to die.
    2. Vinegar. Similarly, vinegar can be injected and will kill Aiptasia due to its acidity.
    3. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is not likely to work when only applied over the anemone. Instead, it can be used to wipe off the remaining parts of Aiptasia that are leftover from previous attempts of removal.
    4. Boiling water. Boiling water can be mixed with lemon juice or vinegar or used by itself. Again, use a syringe to inject it into the anemone.

    These methods have worked for some hobbyists and completely failed for others. It is necessary to gauge how much solution is entering the system as both lemon juice and vinegar can start to affect pH due to their acidity. Boiling water can also burn nearby fish and invertebrates.

    If able to do so, attempt other methods first as to not encourage propagation from a failed removal.

    Lasers

    Lasers are an expensive solution but can be very effective at reaching hard-to-reach places without having to put your hands in the reef tank. They are a relatively new technology being introduced into the reef aquarium hobby for treating Aiptasia Anemones and come with mixed results that might not make their price worth it.

    These lasers need to be very strong and capable of melting away Aiptasia anemone. The problem with this is that they are also very capable of injuring other corals, fish, and invertebrates in the process.

    Some hobbyists have reported them as being completely ineffective.

    Livestock (Fish And Inverts That Love Eating This Type)

    Adding Aiptasia-eating fish and invertebrates to the tank system is usually a great alternative to the other methods mentioned. However, there is always a risk when adding something new to the tank.

    The main problem with adding additional livestock into the reef aquarium is that many of the species recommended to add cannot discriminate between a coral and an anemone. As a result, they might start to target colonies of desired corals and leave the Aiptasia nice and healthy. It is also possible that your fish or invertebrate will successfully eat Aiptasia and then starts to eat corals, too.

    Regardless, many hobbyists try their luck at adding a new fish or invertebrate species for dealing with Aiptasia problems; some can even arrange temporary housings until the anemones have been eliminated and then pass them along to another hobbyist.

    Here are some of the most common fish and invertebrates species for removing Aiptasia from your saltwater aquarium.

    Butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae family)

    Copper Band Butterfly

    For the most part, nearly all common species of butterflyfish have been used to effectively control Aiptasia populations. It is known that butterflyfish are not considered reef-safe and it should not come as a surprise if the one you add decides to go after corals.

    There are, however, a few species that seem to be more reliable than others. This includes:

    • Copperband butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus)
    • Klein’s butterfly (Chaetodon kleinii)
    • Pearlscale butterfly (Chaetodon xanthurus)
    • Raccoon butterfly (Chaetodon lunula)

    Of course, always ensure that your setup is appropriate for the species you plan on adding. Tank size, water parameters, and diet should all be arranged to accommodate a new fish.

    Eating Filefish (Monacanthidae family)

    Aptasia Eating Filefish

    Aiptasia Eating Filefish are another popular addition for dealing with Aiptasia, though they are just as likely to nip at corals. Some hobbyists have found that buying captive-bred individuals helps deter coral picking and encourages Aiptasia Anemone hunting.

    Aiptasia Eating Filefish aren’t the prettiest to have in a reef tank display and some species can get very large. However, the most popular Aiptasia-eating species, like the matted filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus), stay small and can quickly take care of a pest anemone problem.

    It is not unheard of for filefish to suddenly start picking at corals, though.

    Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni)

    A group of peppermint shrimp is usually the route most reefers take for dealing with pest anemones as they are small yet effective.

    With multiple individuals, peppermint shrimp can be expensive and their high demand in the hobby can also make them more difficult to obtain. Not to mention that the peppermint shrimp has a very similar appearance to the camel shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis), which is not reef-safe, and can easily be confused.

    Overall, peppermint shrimp have a very high success rate for dealing with Aiptasia, however, they’ll typically avoid larger ones. They have also been known to graze on zoanthids as well.

    Berghia Nudibranch (Berghia stephanieae)

    If you’re limited on space but still want a natural predator of Aiptasia, Berghia nudibranchs are a great short-term solution.

    These nudibranchs can also be expensive and you will need a good amount of them depending on the size of your saltwater tank. Take into consideration that some fish and other invertebrates might also see them as food in the meantime just as they’re starting to hunt for anemones.

    The main problem with Berghia nudibranchs is that they only eat Aiptasia. This is great in the short term when you are desperate to get rid of all visible anemones, but doesn’t serve as a very long-term solution; once your anemone supply runs out, these nudibranchs will perish.

    Many hobbyists like to pass on their nudibranchs to other tanks suffering from Aiptasia so that they don’t die in the process. They can be very difficult to catch though, and often you will not be able to save them all. If you are interested in purchasing them, I recommend buying them from Salty Underground.

    Closing Thoughts

    Aiptasia are the last thing you want to see in your aquarium but are largely unavoidable. These ugly, fast-growing pest anemones can quickly take over a display and infiltrate filtration systems if left to grow.

    There are many different methods for removing them, including chemical products, more organic solutions, and livestock recommendations. Whatever method you end up choosing, you will most likely need to also use other alternatives and keep on schedule for a few months until there are absolutely no signs of Aiptasia.

    One of the best ways to prevent a pest anemone infestation is by prevention. Even then, it is good to be prepared if one ever happens to enter your system.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Ember Tetra Care Guide: The Perfect Nano Fish for Planted Tanks

    Ember Tetra Care Guide: The Perfect Nano Fish for Planted Tanks

    The ember tetra is one of the fish I recommend most often to people setting up their first planted tank or nano aquarium. They stay under an inch, they’re completely peaceful, and that vivid orange-red coloration pops against green plants in a way that even experienced hobbyists appreciate. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept them multiple times, and I still get asked about them constantly โ€” which tells you everything about how popular they’ve become. They’re also surprisingly hardy and easy to breed once you have a group settled in. This guide covers everything you need to know about ember tetra care: water parameters, tank requirements, ideal group size, diet, and breeding.

    If you are looking for a fish thatโ€™s easy to care for, look no further than the Ember Tetra.  This brightly colored species is a great addition to any aquarium, especially if you are a beginner.    

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameHyphessobrycon Amandae
    Common NamesFire Tetra, Amandaโ€™s, Dwarf Reds, Reds
    FamilyCharacidae
    OriginBrazil
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityVery Active
    Lifespan2 – 4 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range72 ยฐ to 80 ยฐF
    Water Hardness4 to 8 dkH
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origins and Habitat

    The Ember Tetra was discovered fairly recently in 1987. It was named after Heiko Bleherโ€™s mother, Amanda Bleher1.

    But donโ€™t be fooled.  Heiko Bleher didnโ€™t actually stumble upon this species himself.  Instead, he is known for his work with other South American fish. 

    Now back to the Ember Tetra.  These fish come from Brazil, where they mostly reside in the Araguaia River basin.  Its slow-moving waters contain plant materials that decompose, creating an acidic environment. 

    These stained waters are called โ€˜blackwater.โ€™ This dark color makes it easier for Ember Tetras to hide.  

    As shoaling fish, Ember Tetras live in groups.  However, they are not to be confused with schooling fish.  

    Unlike schooling fish, a group of Ember Tetras doesnโ€™t swim in the same direction.  They just stay close together.    

    Ember Tetras are peaceful and can coexist with many other types of wild fish.  Some of those fish include:

    • Other Tetras
    • Pygmy Rasbora
    • Pleco Catfish  

    By the early 1900s, Ember Tetras had found their way into freshwater fish tanks.  Since then, they have become a top choice for aquarium enthusiasts.  

    And thatโ€™s understandable when you consider the Ember Tetraโ€™s beautiful appearance.  Plus, they are easy to care for.         

    What Does they Look Like?

    Ember Tetra

    Most Ember Tetras are orange, but some have a reddish-orange glow.  In either case, the Ember Tetraโ€™s iridescent scales make this fish shimmer and stand out in an aquarium.     

    Usually, their fins are a bit darker than the rest of their body.  Their bodies are thicker in the front and thin out towards the back.   

    How Big are They?

    These freshwater fish are tiny, making them the perfect size for a nano tank.ย  You can expect your Ember Tetras to be about ยพ to 1 inch long.ย ย ย ย 

    How Long Do They Live?

    With proper care, aquarium Ember Tetras live about 2-4 years. Although some fishkeepers have claimed this species can live for 10 years, that claim has not been proven and is likely inaccurate.   

    Their short life span is one disadvantage of keeping this otherwise fantastic fish.  But you can help your Ember Tetras live as long as possible by giving them:

    • The ideal tank environment
    • A high-quality diet
    • Interactions with other fish

    Later in this article, we will talk more about those important aspects of Ember Tetra care.  

    Ember Tetra Care Guide

    Ember Tetra are peaceful fish, making them a great addition to community tanks.  You can also keep them in a species-specific tank.

    Whether you choose the former or the latter option, Ember Tetras need to live in a group.  The size of the group depends on how big your tank is, but you should aim for a minimum of 10-15 fish.

    Because they are so easygoing, the males are unlikely to show aggression towards each other.  That makes it easy to put together a group of Ember Tetras.  

    Although they donโ€™t cause trouble, Ember Tetras are active little fish.  They are always swimming around and arenโ€™t afraid to explore their surroundings.  

    While swimming about, they will likely stick to the middle of the tank.  When they want a break, they will seek refuge in the tankโ€™s plants.  Thatโ€™s why you need to add some to your aquarium.  More on that later.  

    And those plants arenโ€™t just a resting spot.  Ember Tetras also have a great time racing through them as they swim after each other.  You will definitely be entertained by these fish!       

    What Are Good Tank Mates for Them?

    Pencilfish

    Although Ember Tetras are fine in a species-specific tank, their bright colors and gentle disposition make them an excellent choice for a community tank.  

    You just have to choose the right tank mates.  When selecting those tank mates, keep the following pointers in mind:

    • Avoid aggressive fish.  Instead, choose fish that have a friendly nature.  
    • Big fish might eat your tiny Ember Tetras.  Thatโ€™s why you need to avoid any species that are larger than Ember Tetras.   
    • Ember Tetras are middle-dwellers, so itโ€™s a good idea to select bottom and/or top dwellers for their tank mates.  

    Best Tank Mates

    Now that weโ€™ve given you some general guidelines, here are some specific ideas for tank mates:

    And if you are looking for some non-fish mates, nerite snails and other small snails are great options.  Many nano fish are compatible with these fish.

    Least Compatible Fish

    Oscar Cichlids in Aquarium

    Here are a few examples of fish you definitely want to keep out of an Ember Tetra tank:

    What Do They Eat?

    Itโ€™s not hard to find foods that Ember Tetras will gobble up.  The hardest part of feeding this fish is making sure the food is small enough for these tiny creatures to consume.

    With that in mind, you may need to break up the food into small pieces.  This will help your Ember Tetras eat the food more easily, which prevents other fish from stealing it.  

    Some options include: 

    • Micropellets
    • Crushed up flakes
    • Frozen foods    

    And donโ€™t get upset if you catch your fish nibbling on a tank plant.  They are just enjoying a little snack and probably wonโ€™t consume enough of the plant to harm it.  A good staple food to consider is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano. It’s specially designed for small freshwater fish.

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

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    Give Them Live Foods

    Wild Ember Tetras live on a diet of plants and very small prey, such as worms, invertebrates, and zooplankton.  

    Keeping this natural diet in mind, it would be great if you could incorporate some live foods into your Ember Tetrasโ€™ meals.  

    Those foods will add some variety to their diet, which ensures all of their nutritional needs are met.      

    Furthermore, they will also help prevent digestive issues that can be caused by consuming too much processed food.   

    Here are some live foods you can give your Ember Tetra:

    • Daphnia
    • Tubifex worms
    • Baby brine shrimp
    • Blood worms
    • Insect larvae
    • Grindal worms
    • Microworms

    You can also find these foods in frozen food form if you shop around locally.

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    You should feed your Ember Tetras about 2-4 times each day.  At every meal, carefully avoid overfeeding.

    How can you tell if you are feeding the right foods in the right amounts?  Itโ€™s not hard to find out.  

    All you have to do is observe your fish.  Are they brightly colored?  Are they active?  Do they appear to be at ease?

    If you can answer yes to those questions, your Ember Tetrasโ€™ diet is meeting their needs.  But if their color begins to fade or they arenโ€™t acting quite right, their diet should be tweaked.    

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Ember Tetra School

    When creating the ideal environment for your fish, you need to keep their natural habitat in mind.  Your goal is to get as close to this habitat as possible.  

    But what exactly does that look like?  Thatโ€™s what we are going to cover in this section.  Read on to learn more.  

    Tank Size

    Before we talk about the tankโ€™s environment, we need to discuss the tankโ€™s size.  Itโ€™s important to choose the right size because Ember Tetras require space for swimming around.  

    The right size depends on how big the group is.  If you have 5-8 fish, the tank should be at least 10 gallons.    

    For every fish beyond the number 8, increase the tank size by one gallon.  Once you hit the 20-25 fish range, you will need a 20-25 gallon tank.  

    Hereโ€™s a quick tip.  Maximize swimming space by getting a long tank, rather than a tall one.

    Tank Setup

    After you choose the right size you need to set up the tank.  The tank should include plants, substrate, and decor.  Read on to learn more.  

    Plants

    Ember Tetra in Planted Tank

    Ember Tetras need plants.  The total amount depends on how large the tank is and how many fish you have.  

    You certainly donโ€™t want to crowd your fish.  Instead, give them just enough plants to help them feel secure.  

    This will prevent stress.  And when your fish are stress-free, they will stay healthy and beautiful.

    Furthermore, when the tank has the right amount of plants, your Ember Tetra will have a blast swimming through them.  Your fish can also use them as resting spots.      

    As an added bonus, the plants also house bacteria that your little fish can eat, adding extra nutrition to their diet.  

    Some great plants to use are:

    Floating plants work really well with these fish too. They provide another place for them to hide.

    Substrate

    You can use enriched active soil or mud for substrate.  Whichever one you choose, itโ€™s best to go with a dark color.  This dark tone will make your gorgeous Ember Tetras really stand out!  

    Decor

    The tankโ€™s finishing touches should include rocks and wood.  Ember tetras are great fish to use in planted aquascapes like Iwagumi and Dutch aquascapes. If you have serious interest in those styles of planted tanks, check out the links.

    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua

    Water Quality

    Okay, now you know what to put in the tank.  Great!  Next, you need to learn how to maintain ideal water conditions.  

    Letโ€™s get started. 

    Filtration

    Wild Ember Tetras live in slow-moving waters, so itโ€™s necessary to replicate this in your aquarium.  

    That can be done by installing a sponge filter.  The filter will keep the water clean while also generating the appropriate water flow.    If you need better filtration because you are using a lot of plants, you can consider putting a sponge on the intake and lowering the flow.

    Water Parameters

    These tiny little freshwater fish canโ€™t handle change very well.  Thatโ€™s why consistency is key when caring for Ember Tetras.  Avoid large fluctuations by keeping a close eye on the tankโ€™s water temperature and pH.  

    Here are the water parameters to aim for:

    • Water Temperature: 72-80 degrees Fahrenheit  
    • pH:  5.5 – 6.7 
    • KH: 4 – 8

    As you can see, Ember Tetras prefer acidic water.  You can reduce pH by adding driftwood or Indian almond leaves to the tank.     

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Although Ember Tetras are very easy to care for, they are sensitive and require regular tank maintenance.  If you fall behind, they might end up with health problems.        

    Test Tank Conditions

    Itโ€™s a good idea to get a test kit and test the water about 1-2 times per week.  Taking this step will help you maintain ideal water conditions, allowing your Ember Tetras to thrive.       

    Breeding

    Breeding Ember Tetras is fairly easy.  In fact, some of your fish might breed on their own, without any work on your part.  

    However, the parents and other fish are likely to eat the fry.  Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s best to work through a process that involves your oversight.  Letโ€™s talk about that right now.  If you prefer a video, you can check out the one below by MaFishGuy Aquarium Information.

    Sexing

    First, you will need to select a male and female to place in a separate breeding tank.  Although sexing Ember Tetras can be a bit challenging for newbies, donโ€™t let that intimidate you.  

    Just look at the shape and color of the fish.  Females are rounder and males are brighter.   

    Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

    Ember Tetras are ready to breed when they are about 4-6 months old.  After youโ€™ve picked out a male and female, place them in a separate breeding tank, away from the other fish.  

    The breeding tankโ€™s water conditions should be pretty close to the regular tankโ€™s conditions, with the temperature and pH being on the higher end of the optimal range.

    Get your fish in tip-top shape for breeding by feeding larval brine shrimp every day for two weeks.        

    The Breeding Process

    When the fish are ready to breed, the male will start chasing and nipping the female.  Once the female is carrying eggs, her abdomen will grow larger.  

    This species doesn’t lay its eggs in any particular location.  That means your Ember Tetraโ€™s eggs will sink to the bottom of the tank.  

    If you put mesh fabric or an egg crate in the tank, these barriers will keep the parents from getting to the eggs.  

    Caring for Fry

    After the eggs have been laid, the parents might try to eat them.  Prevent this by removing them from the tank immediately after the female lays the eggs.  

    The eggs will hatch in approximately 2-3 days, giving you about 100 fry. 

    After they hatch, start feeding infusoria.  When they are a week old, give them baby brine shrimp and small worms.  Eventually, you can start feeding crushed fish flakes.   

    Health and Disease

    Thankfully, Ember Tetras donโ€™t typically have a lot of health problems.  While hardy, that doesnโ€™t mean these fish are invincible.  

    If you want to keep them healthy they need high-quality food, the right water conditions, and social interactions with other tetras.

    Evaluating Your Ember Tetrasโ€™ Health

    How can you tell if your Ember Tetras are healthy?  Just take a look at their appearance.  If your fish are brightly colored, they are in great shape!

    On the other hand, a pale fish that acts abnormally isnโ€™t doing too well.  This sick fish is quite vulnerable to attacks and should be removed from the tank.  

    Common Their Health Issues

    Here are the health issues and fish diseases that Ember Tetras are most likely to have:

    • White Spot Disease – This appears as white spots and is caused by stress or poor care.  Prevent this disease by maintaining ideal water conditions.  If the disease occurs, there are products to treat it.    
    • Fungal and Bacterial Infections – These infections can be fatal.  Be sure to address the issue immediately!  Signs include rotting fins and cloudy masses.   
    • Impaction – Too much dry food can block the digestive system.  Prevent impaction by including wet food in the diet or soaking dry foods before feeding.      

    Where to Buy

    Many fish stores sell Ember Tetras, making them easy to find.  You will probably pay about $2 per fish.  Some online fish stores will also sell them. It may make sense to purchase them online if you cannot find a quality local fish store in your area.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How many can I put in a 10-gallon tank?

    No more than 5-8.ย  Anything above that number may overcrowd the tank.ย  If you want more than 8 fish, you will need a larger tank.ย ย ย ย ย ย 

    How many should be in a school?

    Your group of Ember Tetras should consist of at least 10-15 fish.ย  If you want a larger group, be sure to choose a tank thatโ€™s big enough to fit them all.ย ย ย 

    Do they like currents?

    Wild Ember Tetras live in slow-moving water.ย  Keep this in mind when choosing a filter.ย ย ย ย 

    How long do Neon and this type live?

    The average lifespan is about 2-4 years, provided the fish are properly cared for.ย  This requires feeding the right diet, maintaining optimal tank conditions, and allowing them to live in a group.ย ย ย 

    Will they nip a betta?

    Sometimes an Ember Tetra might try to nip a betta or any other fish with long fins.ย  However, they arenโ€™t known to normally exhibit this behavior.ย ย ย ย 

    Closing Thoughts

    To sum it all up, Ember Tetras are great fish to keep.  They are easy to care for and get along well with many different types of fish.  Plus, their stunning colors will make your aquarium look amazing!

    As long as you continue providing great care, your Ember Tetras will light up the tank.  And thatโ€™s why so many aquarium hobbyists love this species.  


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ This article is part of our Tetras: Complete A-Z Species Directory โ€” your guide to every tetra species in the hobby.

  • The Ultimate Guide to Fishless Cycling โ€“ Step-by-Step From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    The Ultimate Guide to Fishless Cycling โ€“ Step-by-Step From a 25-Year Hobbyist

    Fishless cycling is the method I recommend to every new hobbyist, and it’s how I set up tanks myself. The old way โ€” adding a few “hardy” fish and hoping for the best โ€” works, but it puts fish through unnecessary stress during the most toxic phase of a new tank. With fishless cycling you get a fully established tank before a single fish goes in, and that makes all the difference in long-term success.

    The nitrogen cycle is the single most important concept in fishkeeping โ€” get it right before you add fish, and you avoid the most common cause of fish death in new tanks. Fishless cycling lets you establish your beneficial bacteria colony without exposing any fish to toxic ammonia and nitrite spikes, and it’s the method I recommend to every new hobbyist I talk to. I’ve cycled more tanks than I can count over 25 years, and in this guide I break down the process step by step so you can do it confidently and not rush it.

    Why Do We Cycle?

    The first question we should start with is why do we do a cycle anyway? And, what exactly is a cycle? Many newcomers may think you can just put a fish in a tank on day one and everything should work out well. Unfortunately, this can lead to some pretty sad results.

    Biology is the major reason why we need to cycle. It all starts with the nitrogen cycle. Until you have a complete cycle, your aquarium is prone to building up toxic levels of nutrients that can harm, stress, and even kill your fish!

    You want the best for your prized pets, so knowing how the nitrogen cycle works should be the first point of reference we need to understand.

    The Nitrogen Cycle

    There is a great video that really explains the nitrogen cycle in a fun and entertaining way by Girl Talks Fish below that I’ll embed for you. I’ll go more into my boring details below:

    There are 4 stages to the nitrogen cycle that occurs in our aquariums. They are:

    • Stage 1 – Ammonia is excreted as a fish waste product or from decaying matter
    • Stage 2 – Nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite
    • Stage 3 – Nitrobacter bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate
    • Stage 4 – Plants use nitrates as fertilizer

    I’ll go into further details in a future article. The main thing to take away is if your ecosystem cannot get to at least stage 3 with stability, you will have major uses with fish and invert health in your aquarium. We cycle our aquariums in order to build a balanced ecosystem, one that is suitable for our fish to live in.

    How Does A Fishless Cycle Work?

    Fishless cycling works by using an ammonia source with a combination of beneficial bacteria. As the ammonia is added, the bacteria will consume the ammonia and convert it down to nitrate. Eventually, we get to the point where the aquarium has enough bacteria to handle livestock additions.

    In the old days of aquariums (like when I started ๐Ÿ˜…), it was an acceptable practice to use hardy fish to cycle an aquarium. Oftentimes, these poor sacrificial fish would either not make it, or they would be eaten by the larger display fish the aquarium owner really wanted to keep.

    In saltwater aquariums, the fish people would use for cycles would be damselfish. The hardy little fish would usually survive a cycle but would turn into terrors in a community tank since they are very territorial and are best added last. Check out our video from our YouTube channel for an overview. We go into more detail in our blog post further down. Subscribe if you like our content!

    To avoid fish mortality and unwanted aggression to future tank mates, hobbyists worked to develop more humane and effective techniques to cycle a fish tank. Not only were these new methods humane, but they also were a lot faster than the old methods. It’s all based on the use of nitrifying bacteria.

    What is Nitrifying Bacteria?

    As mentioned in the nitrogen cycle stages, Nitrosomonas and Nitrospira bacteria are the workhorses for turning ammonia into nitrate. These two types of bacteria make all life possible in your aquarium. Without them, the fish tank would get overwhelmed with toxic chemical levels and nothing could live in it.

    Nitrifying bacteria can come from many sources these days. Here are a few common ways of introducing them.

    • Bacteria in a bottle products
    • Introducing any livestock to the tank
    • Live Rock and Live Sand (for saltwater tanks)
    • Live plants (for planted tanks)

    I will go through each way in this article. There are pros and cons to each one and you should choose the one that works best for your situation. As for me, I like bacteria in a bottle. There are many good products these days like Fritz Turbo Start for freshwater tanks and BioSpira for saltwater tanks.

    My Pick For Freshwater Bacteria
    Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater

    Fritz Turbo Start is known in the industry as the fastest acting nitrifying bacteria you can purchase. This 700 version is specialized for freshwater tank and has my highest recommendation

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    Necessary Equipment

    You actually do not need much to perform a fishless cycle. Depending on what method you use you will need the following:

    • A fish tank
    • An aquarium filter
    • A heater (for tropical tanks)
    • Liquid ammonia OR some other sort of ammonia source
    • Bacteria in a bottle or seeded filtration media (depending on what method you choose)

    Before we talk about methods, let’s discuss the advantages of a fishless cycle vs. a traditional cycle.

    Fishless Cycle vs. Traditional cycle

    Fishless cycling has several advantages over a traditional cycle. Here is a quick list:

    • Fishless cycling is more humane and reduces/eliminates livestock fatalities
    • Cycling with ammonia and bacteria in a bottle is disease-free
    • Fishless cycling is more aggressive and as a result cycles faster than a traditional cycle
    • You will not have any undesirable fish left over after the cycle

    Traditional cycling seems simple at first, but it can actually lead to a number of problems. You will have fish that are stressed and they could get sick as a result, leading to further complications. It’s better to be in control of the entire cycle by fishless cycling in order to start out your fish tank cycled and disease-free.

    Traditional cycling also takes far longer. A typical traditional cycle can take 30 – 45 days, while a fishless cycle can be completed in as little as 7 days and sometimes even quicker! There are way more advantages than disadvantages to using a fishless cycling method over a traditional one, so it’s no wonder nearly everyone these days starts with them.

    Now that we know why fishless cycling is best for us, let’s figure out what cycling method we will use.

    How to fishless cycle

    There are actually several methods you can use when it comes to performing a fishless cycle. Each one has its pros and cons. These methods are:

    • Cycling with ammonia
    • Cycling with fish food
    • The shrimp method
    • Cycling with live plants
    • Cycling with live rock & live sand
    • Cycling by seeding your tank with bacteria

    Each one of these methods will work to cycle your tank, oftentimes much faster than the traditional method. Many of these methods are “sterile” meaning they will not introduce diseases to your aquarium. Let’s dive into each method to learn more!

    1. Using Ammonia

    Cycling with pure ammonia is one of the most popular ways of cycling a new tank without fish. Not just any household ammonia will do though, because these often contain other ingredients that could do a lot of harm.

    For Fishless Cycling
    Dr. Tim s Aquatics Ammonium Chloride

    Ammonia into a tank?!? Sounds crazy doesn’t it. It’s what all the cool kids use to cycle their tanks these days.

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    For this cycling process, we want to use ammonium chloride. My go-to product for this method is Dr. Tim’s Ammonium Chloride. To use the ammonia method you would need to perform the following steps:

    • Step 1 – Add bacteria in a bottle
    • Step 2 – Add ammonium chloride until you read 2PPM
    • Step 3 – Wait 24 hours
    • Step 4 – Test ammonia and nitrite levels
    • Step 5 – If you are at 0 ammonia and 0 nitrites, add ammonia until you are at 2PPM again
    • Step 6 – Wait 24 hours
    • Step 7 – Test ammonia and nitrite, add ammonia until you are at 2PPM again
    • Step 8 – Wait 24 hours
    • Step 9 – If no ammonia and nitrites, test for nitrates, if high, do a water change to lower levels
    • Step 10 – Time to add fish

    For ammonia and nitrite level testing, a simple API test kit should work and will help you get the job done

    Pros of the Ammonia Approach

    • Easy to do and proven products available
    • Easy to test
    • Completely “sterile” – a great way to start off your tank disease-free
    • No mess method

    Cons of the Ammonia Approach

    • Expensive to do (especially for larger tanks and saltwater)
    • It may take longer than other methods

    2. Using Fish Food To Cycle The Aquarium

    Flake Food

    Using fish food as a cycling method is also a popular alternative in a new tank. This can be done with a combination of flake or pellet food and bacteria in a bottle. All you do is feed the aquarium every day with food and monitor your ammonia levels.

    It’s less of an exact science than the ammonia chloride method, but you can use the fish food you were planning to use from the start. Depending on your budget, you’ll find this a very affordable alternative for individuals who are looking to save a few dollars.

    Pros of Fish Food Approach

    • Cheap
    • You will need the fish food for when you get fish
    • It will get you used to feeding your fish

    Cons of Fish Food Approach

    • Messy
    • Not an exact science
    • It may take some trial and error to get right

    3. The Dead Shrimp Method

    The shrimp method cycling process was originally popularized by Melev’s reef as a safe way of cycling a tank. It involves purchasing a jumbo shrimp at your local supermarket and putting it inside your tank for several days in order to create an ammonia spike.

    Because the shrimp decays in your tank, it creates the opportunity for beneficial bacteria to populate. Due to the total organic chemistry, the dead shrimp method produces more ammonia than the fish feed procedure.

    This method does not require bacteria in a bottle but can be sped up with it. You should leave the shrimp in your tank for at least 2-3 days.

    For a nice video overview, check out this video by Blue Damsel as she explains how she cycled her tank with a shrimp.

    Pros of Shrimp Method

    • Doesn’t require bacteria in a bottle
    • Cheap
    • Only requires one introduction of ammonia

    Cons of Shrimp Method

    • Smelly
    • Can take longer than other methods

    4. Cycling With Live Plants

    Live Plants in Aquarium

    This is an aquascaper’s favorite here for the freshwater aquarium. Cycling with live plants is natural, effective, and kills two birds with one stone. You cycle your new tank, build a great setup, and your tank is ready for lots of fish when the cycle is done.

    There are two ways to do this cycling, you can perform a dry start or you can do a flood/underwater start. Depending on the plants you are planning, a dry start can be the best way to get this done.

    I recommend you start by using an active soil. This soil will introduce the necessary ammonia, which your plants and bacteria will consume.

    Let’s talk about steps:

    • Step 1 – Use an active substrate like Tropical Aquasoil
    • Step 2 – Plant your aquarium plants
    • Step 3 – Fill tank or grow dry if using the dry start method
    • Step 4 – Add bacteria in a bottle to accelerate the cycle process
    • Step 5 – Test every 24 hours to monitor ammonia and nitrite levels
    • Step 6 – Do not add any fish until you read 0 ammonia and nitrite levels for two straight tests
    • Step 7 – Add fish, starting with algae eaters first, then other fish 2-3 weeks later

    By using bacteria in a bottle, you can usually get to Step 7 in about a week sometimes longer.

    Pros of Live Plants Method

    • Works best for aquascapes and planted tanks
    • A healthy way to build a natural tank
    • Fast

    Cons of Live Plants Method

    • Expensive
    • Not ideal for certain fish setups
    • Algae blooms

    5. Cycling With Live Rock & Live Sand (Saltwater Aquariums Only)

    One of the best ways of cycling a marine or reef tank is to use live rock and sand. Of course, ‘live’ rock and sand are not really alive, but rather home to all sorts of bacteria and organisms that have colonized it in nature, or after being seeded in an established aquarium.

    Live rock usually has a very rough and intricate texture, with loads of holes and crevices for life forms to attach themselves. Healthy live rock or sand that has been handled correctly will introduce the beneficial nitrifying bacteria to your tank that maintain your water quality. The other organisms that live in the live rock and substrate will also produce some ammonia which helps in maintaining the cycle.

    Ocean Direct
    Maricultures Florida Live Rock

    An old school solution. Once cured, Dinos tend not to be an issue because of the great biodiversity contained in this rock.

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    Let’s talk about the steps:

    • Step 1 – Set up your aquarium, complete with filter, heater, thermometer, and all other necessary hardware. Add water of the correct salinity
    • Step 2 – Let your filter and heater run for a day or so and the water warm up to the right temperature
    • Step 3 – Get your live rock and sand. Use cured live rock that has been kept wet
    • Step 4 – Inspect the live rock or substrate for any unwanted organisms and remove them, but do not sterilize the seeding materials
    • Step 4 – Sprinkle live sand into the floor of the tank and add your live rock
    • Step 5 – Provide an ammonia source like some fish food to help sustain the nitrifying bacteria
    • Step 6 – After a few days, test the water, if you read 0 parts nitrite and ammonia, and some nitrates, your tank is cycled
    • Step 7 – Add fish

    If Ammonia and nitrite are present, your tank is still cycling. This often happens as a result of some of the organisms and bacteria dying off after being move to a new environment. Do a partial water change and retest the water in a few days.

    If you are still reading ammonia and nitrites, it is possible that your live rock was not cured, or the organisms died before getting to your tank. If that is the case, you might need to use one of the other fishless cycle techniques like the ammonia or dead shrimp method.

    Pros of cycling with live rock & live sand

    • The best way to introduce a healthy balanced community of bacteria and micro fauna to a reef tank
    • Very fast results if you have healthy live materials
    • Live rock is home to other beneficial organisms

    Cons of cycling with live rock & live sand

    • Potential to introduce unwanted animals
    • Live rock is expensive
    • If live rock is not handled correctly, bacteria and micro-organisms may not survive

    6. Seeding your tank with beneficial bacteria from an existing system

    Beneficial Bacteria from Existing Filter

    Seeding your new tank with beneficial bacteria from a mature aquarium is the ultimate shortcut to jump-starting the nitrogen cycle in a new aquarium. This is essentially what we are doing by adding live plants or live rock to a new aquarium because they are already home to the bacteria we need.

    In the home aquarium, the most important colony of beneficial bacteria lives in and on your filters media. The filters media is the sponge, foam, floss, or other material that the water flows through or over. These bacteria will colonize the filter quite quickly if they are present on the live rock for example, but there is an even faster way.

    It is possible to seed your filter media directly if you have a mature tank or a friend that does and is willing to help you out. The trick is to make sure your new tank has the same water parameters as the tank where you will be getting your nitrifying bacteria.

    Let’s talk about the steps:

    • Step 1 – Set up your aquarium, complete with all hardware, gravel, decorations, etc., and fill with water. Make sure to use a water conditioner
    • Step 2- Allow your filter to run for a day or so and the heater to warm your water to a stable temperature
    • Step 3 – Add a small piece of filter media from a mature tank to the media compartment of your new filter. You should not remove the new filter media, but rather use both together
    • Step 4 – Add some ammonia to the water in the form of fish food for example
    • Step 4- Test your water. Your ammonia and nitrite levels should read 0 after a week and nitrates should be present
    • Strep 5- Add fish

    Alternative method

    • Step 1 – Set up an extra filter in one of your other tanks or in a friend’s established tank a few weeks before setting up the rest of your new aquarium.
    • Step 2 – Move the now seeded filter over from the established tank over to your new tank once it has been colonized by nitrifying bacteria
    • Step 3 – Add an ammonia source, either from a bottle or from fish food
    • Step 4 – Test your water after a few days. You should note that ammonia and nitrites read 0, but nitrates are present.
    • Step 5 – Add fish

    Pros of seeding from an existing system

    • The fastest way to cycle a new tank. This method can be instant, but take a few days to confirm this by testing to be safe
    • Easy
    • Cost-effective

    Cons of seeding from an existing system

    • Getting hold of some mature filter media can be tricky if you don’t have other tanks or friends in the hobby
    • Possible introduction of disease if the tank getting media from is infected

    The Final Test

    After choosing the fishless cycling method and following the recommended steps, it’s time to find out whether your new tank has cycled successfully! This can be a pretty nerve-wracking time, because you’ve been patient, and you’re probably itching to start adding livestock to your aquarium.

    No matter which method you’ve used, you’re going to need to test the water to know if your tank is cycled. This means you need a test kit that can measure ammonia levels, nitrites, and nitrates. You can use liquid or strip test kits from your local fish store, and follow the instructions on the package. The API Freshwater Master Test Kit is a great option to test all major parameters.

    If after following all the steps of your chosen cycling technique and doing 2 water tests, you measure 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites, and some nitrates, you’ve been successful, and your tank is cycled! The presence of nitrates tells you that both the important types of bacteria you need are thriving in your tank.

    One thing that is very important to note is that nitrates are also toxic to fish, just less so than ammonia and nitrites. I’m sorry to spring this on you so late in the article but hang in there, we’re nearly done!

    The way to manage nitrates is simply to perform regular water changes. Basically, you need to remove enough aquarium water, as often as necessary, to keep your nitrate levels to below 20ppm.

    Can I Add Fish Now?

    Congratulations on completing the fishless cycling process, at this point, you can start to add your first fish!

    Although your tank now has established bacteria colonies, there are only enough of them to fully manage the ammonia level that has been available to them. Adding fish is going to increase the bio-load and the available ammonia levels in your aquarium water pretty quickly, so ideally you want to introduce the fish in stages to avoid overloading the system.

    Let’s imagine you plan on keeping a school of 20 tetras and a clean-up crew and algae eaters in your new tank. Unless you have plenty of live plants in your tank to help in taking up ammonia and nitrates, adding them all at once could cause an ammonia spike that your bacteria aren’t able to manage.

    Ember Tetra

    To avoid this, you could add 6 tetras to start and keep an eye on your nitrates. Perform a weekly water change to keep your nitrate level to below 20ppm and give your bacteria a chance to develop further. Introduce more fish in stages to allow the nitrifying bacteria colonies to grow. Growing live plants is also hugely helpful, because they take nitrates out of the tank water, and turn them into healthy new leaves.

    In some planted aquascapes, fish all added in 2 large stages. However, note that these setups are loaded with lots of plants and lots of filtration. This is an advanced techique that requires research if you want to do this.

    Depending on the type of fish you are looking for, I have many guides. You can check them out below:

    FAQS

    How long does it take to cycle a fishless cycle?

    Depending on the method you use, a fishless cycle will usually take anything from a few days to about 6 weeks before ammonia and nitrite levels drop off. If you’re starting from scratch with something like the fish flakes method, and with all new equipment and sterile gravel, the process can take over a month. If you seed your filter with mature media, the cycle can be instantly ready.

    Should I do a water change first?

    Since cycling is about allowing changes in water chemistry to happen, it would make sense to not interfere while this is happening. If however, your ammonia levels spike too high during your fishless cycle, it’s a good idea to perform a partial water change.

    This is because high ammonia levels can actually slow or stop the cycle. Only a partial water change is necessary though because you do need to have ammonia present for the cycle to happen.

    Is this necessary?

    Fishless cycling is absolutely necessary for the health and well-being of your future pets. Although it does take some patience, safely cycling your tank is the key to success when keeping fish and other live animals.

    Remember, starting up an aquarium is a long-term project, so try not to rush this important first stage. You could use the time while you’re cycling your tank to track down the fish you want and do all the research about their needs and care.

    What are the advantages of this?

    The major advantage of fishless cycling is that it does not stress or kill any fish unnecessarily. Apart from the obvious ethical side to this, it also prevents you from losing money by replacing livestock. Using fish to cycle your tank often leaves you with the problem of what to do with that unwanted fish once the tank is cycled.

    Do I need to add ammonia?

    Yes, the nitrogen cycle does need some form of ammonia to get started and grow your bacteria levels. Avoid using general-purpose household ammonia for this because it often has added chemicals that can affect the process.

    It is best to use a purpose-made product like Dr. Tim’s Ammonium Chloride to add ammonia in its pure form or use something like fish food or a dead shrimp to add this compound to the aquarium water.

    Final Thoughts

    After reading this article, I hope you have a better understanding of why cycling is so important and how to do it safely without the help of hardy fish. I know it can be tough to stay patient when setting up a new tank, but once you understand why we cycle, and the obvious benefits of having a healthy fishless cycled aquarium, the waiting gets a lot easier!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Green Star Polyp Care – A Complete Guide

    Green Star Polyp Care – A Complete Guide

    Green star polyps are one of the first corals I put in a new reef tank, and I still keep them in mine. They’re nearly bulletproof โ€” fast growing, tolerant of a range of parameters, and they create incredible motion in the tank when their polyps are extended and swaying in the flow. If you’re new to reef keeping, GSP is an excellent starting point that will give you quick success and build your confidence.

    When it comes to Green Star Polyp Care, there usually isn’t much to it. The main thing is learning how fast it grows, where to place it, and how to control it. It can grow quite large if given the right conditions and some reefers have event used them to create a wall of corals!

    Today’s post is all about the Green Star Poly. Come find out all there is to know about this beautiful creature with our complete guide on how best to take care of your Green Star Polyp. You’ll be glad you did!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameBriareum spp. (widely Pachyclavularia violacea)
    Common NamesGreen star polyps (GSP), daisy corals, starburst corals, star corals
    Family
    OriginWidely found throughout the Indo-Pacific1
    Common ColorsGreens, yellows, and browns with purple skeleton
    Care LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    LightingModerate-High (50-200+ PAR)
    Tank PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    Flow RateModerate-High
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 โ€“ 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8 โ€“ 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350 โ€“ 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250 โ€“ 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Like many other corals, green star polyps come from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific in turbid lagoons and along shallow to moderately deep reefs. There, they can be found alongside other soft corals, such as Xenia spp. and Clavularia spp..

    Green star polyps are soft corals, meaning they do not have a calcium carbonate skeleton. Instead, they quickly grow as encrusting mats over rocks and other sessile objects.

    Naming

    In general, green star polyps are taxonomically categorized as Pachyclavularia violacea. This is a very broad name for these corals though, and it’s very likely that you have a species that is something other than Pachyclavularia violacea. The Pachyclavularia genus is also synonymous with Briareum and the two can be used interchangeably for this species.

    Green star polyps are a type of soft coral (Alcyonacea order) though they contain sclerites, or small pieces of skeleton, within their tissue for structure.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Green Star Polyp

    When fully spread, green star polyps look like a lawn of grass. Individually, they have a white center and eight radial green tentacles. These serrated-like tentacles come out from a purple base with tubes for every polyp.

    When closed, this coral looks like a pointy, purple mat. As we’ll discuss later, these corals can sometimes be temperamental and may be closed for extended periods of time if something is unfavorable in the tank.

    Varieties

    There are not many variations of green star polyp and their appearance largely depends on the type of aquarium light being used. Because they are so easy to grow, they are mostly aquacultured.

    There are a few varieties of green star polyp though, mainly with differences between shades of green, tentacle length, and skeleton branching.

    It is very common to come across ‘neon’ varieties of green star polyps where the tentacles are fluorescent green. Other variations might have a more defined white center or more tints of yellow, though the general purple and green coloration stays the same.

    Some variations of green star polyp might also be long-tentacled. It is believed that long green star polyps are hardier and grow faster than shorter ones, which can sometimes be confused with galaxea corals (Galaxea fascicularis).

    Within the aquarium, there is also said to be a branching variety of green star polyp. This variety is different from the regular encrusting type and is much more rare and desirable. The problem is that it can be very difficult to tell apart from others as there is little difference between small frags and usually no difference at all between namings.

    Branching green star polyps grow outwards, away from the rock; this means that they don’t necessarily need to grow on top of rock to spread and can create archways and limbs that extend across the reef tank.

    Still, green star polyps have not reached the brand-name-worthiness of other soft corals, which keeps their prices relatively low.

    Galaxea spp.

    To the untrained eye, green star polyps can look very similar to species of Galaxea coral. This can be a costly mistake as Galaxea have long sweeper tentacles that can severely damage other corals.

    These two corals look very similar and even have similar care requirements. Overall though, green star polyps tend to be larger, less compact, and have more tapered tips. In a mat, galaxea corals can have a shaggy appearance whereas green star polyps will have a more uniform sway.

    Green Star Polyp Care Guide

    Green Star Polyp Close Up

    Green star polyps are one of the most versatile corals in the aquarium, meaning they can be placed almost anywhere. The problem is that they will also spread everywhere they can.

    Green star polyps do best under moderate to high reef lighting with moderate to high flow; they can usually withstand conditions above and below this, though low light will result in slower or minimal growth and high light can cause bleaching and algae.

    These corals need moderate to high flow in order to keep algae off their purple skeleton. Because green star polyps are so concentrated, water flow needs to be able to remove any waste or debris from the top of the coral.

    If water flow is inadequate, algae can start to build over the opening of the tubes, which prevents the polyps from expanding. Even more so, snails, hermit crabs, and algae-loving fish might start to crawl over or pick at this algae which can result in longer periods of retraction.

    However, you also want to make sure that you don’t place your green star polyps too close to other corals. These corals grow extremely fast and won’t hesitate to grow over and shade out zoanthids or other peaceful corals.

    Because of this, many hobbyists like to keep them on a rock island of their own as they will rarely grow onto the substrate. Another option is to keep them around much more aggressive coral species (like LPS corals) that should fight back any green star polyps that try to invade their space.

    Another popular option for green star polyp placement is the back or the bottom of the reef tank. Many hobbyists choose to create a background of green star polyp or a lawn on a bare bottom setup. It only takes a small piece of frag to have a waving mat of green within a couple of months.

    Temperament In The Aquarium

    Green star polyps will not sting other corals and are very peaceful. However, they are highly invasive and will not hesitate to grow over and shade out other corals.

    As mentioned before, these corals do best when isolated. You do not need to worry about other corals being stung by them, but rather taken over by them. As long as green star polyps are kept away from other, less aggressive corals, then they should stay manageable.

    Though these corals aren’t known to have a powerful sting, it is still recommended to keep them away from other corals at all times to prevent aggression.

    Are They Toxic?

    There is some belief that green star polyps are toxic and can release damaging chemicals into the aquarium when stressed, like zoanthids. However, this is largely a myth and has yet to be proven within the hobby.

    If you are concerned about green star polyps releasing toxins, use gloves when handling and run activated carbon. Otherwise, it is extremely rare, if not impossible, to have any toxin complications due to green star polyps.

    Care And Maintenance

    Green star polyps are one of the easiest corals to care for, though some hobbyists can have difficulty with them due to the reef tank being too clean, inadequate flow, or extreme lighting.

    Otherwise, green star polyp maintenance and upkeep are straightforward.

    Dosing

    Like other corals, green star polyps need available nutrients in the water column. They need nitrates, phosphates, magnesium, calcium, and a stable alkalinity for healthy growth and vibrant colors.

    That being said, these soft corals do not need additional nutrients to be dosed other than what is introduced through feedings and fish waste. In fact, many hobbyists look to slow down green star polyp growth rather than speed it up.

    Feeding

    Many hobbyists choose not to feed their green star polyps as they get the majority of their food through photosynthesis, but they’ll definitely enjoy some supplemented foods every now and then.

    For best results, use a powder or liquid food, like zooplankton; these corals are not able to take in larger foods through their mouths.

    Trimming And Algae

    Green star polyps grow fast, and eventually, you will need to control that growth. Some hobbyists choose to frag these trimmings, though the supply might outweigh the demand.

    These corals can be difficult to completely remove from a surface and will often grow back after some time. When you see green star polyps growing somewhere you don’t want them, simply scrape them off and dispose of them. Make sure you get all the pieces as they can reseed themselves elsewhere in the tank.

    Another way to combat green star polyp growth is by shading it out with a larger object. This can affect other corals too if not carefully placed, but it is an effective way to deprive the coral of necessary light for growth.

    At the same time, you will want to look out for algae growing on the mat of the coral. It is recommended to use a turkey baster weekly to gently remove any algae or debris that might be caught. If you notice that your green star polyps have been closed more than usual lately, it could be bothersome algae.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    Tank Raised Clownfish

    Green star polyps can be kept with nearly everything, including not reef-safe species. Here’s how.

    In theory, green star polyps can be kept with anything from clownfish and tangs to triggers and angels. This is due to the fact that this coral grows so incredibly fast. There is still the very real possibility that not reef-safe fish will eat green star polyps, but these corals are very likely to bounce right back and make up for what had been lost.

    It should also be noted that green star polyps might not look as appetizing as other fleshy large polyp stony (LPS) corals, so some coral-hungry fish might leave it alone. If you find yourself with a fish that eats everything you put into the tank but you’re still determined to have corals, then get an inexpensive frag of green star polyps and try your luck.

    Fragging

    It should come as no surprise that green star polyps are incredibly easy to frag. The hardest part will be separating the pieces from the rock.

    In order to frag green star polyps, first, find a manageable side of the rock where the mat will be easy to separate. If you can’t find a good place to cut, then choose the best spot and use a scissor, scalpel, or razor blade to cut through and detach the piece from the rock.

    For the most part, it doesn’t matter how big or small of a piece you frag as it will quickly recover and start growing. Simply attach the frag to a frag plug with superglue (cyanoacrylate). You may dip this frag in iodine or a special coral mix, but this is not necessary.

    Place the frag towards the bottom of the reef tank. The polyps should start to open in a few days, though these corals can be temperamental after handling. Do not worry as they can survive a couple of weeks of being retracted.

    As mentioned before, your green star polyps may grow too quickly for how much fragging you can manage. These excess corals can be moved to the sump to help with nutrient exportation, given to another hobbyist, or disposed of correctly. If you want a video tutorial, you can check out the video below by OceanStateAquaticsTV.

    How Long Does It Take For Them To Spread?

    Green star polyps can cover a rock in a matter of months. Growth may be slow initially and your coral might not even open for a few days when you first introduce it into the reef tank.

    If conditions are right though, you will have new growth almost every day. This can be seen on the edges of the mat, where the flesh is light purple or white instead of the dark reddish-purple of the rest of the colony.

    If you find that your green star polyps aren’t opening, try to keep conditions stable. You will want to move them around to new areas of the tank for better flow or lighting, but it is best to leave them where they are until they open. If you see algae starting to grow on top of the mat, gently waft away or turkey baster the algae off.

    At the same time, make sure there are available nutrients in the water column. It is not unheard of for green star polyps to not open when sufficient nutrients aren’t available.

    Closing Thoughts

    Green star polyps are one of the best corals and one of the worst corals. They offer vibrant colors and exciting movement to all levels of the aquarium, but they can easily outcompete other species and be extremely difficult to remove once introduced to the tank.

    They are one of the best beginner corals due to their resilience and relatively low care requirements, but can also make a beautiful backdrop or lawn for more intricate setups.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Nano Fish: 21 Amazing Species for Small Aquariums (Expert Picks)

    Nano Fish: 21 Amazing Species for Small Aquariums (Expert Picks)

    Nano fish are one of my favorite topics to talk about, and I say that after 25+ years in this hobby. I’ve set up countless tanks โ€” from sprawling 125-gallon reef systems down to tiny desktop tanks โ€” and there’s something genuinely special about a well-executed nano aquarium. The challenge is picking the right fish. Small tanks are less forgiving on water quality, so you need species that stay small, tolerate stable-but-modest conditions, and actually thrive rather than just survive. In this guide I’m sharing 21 nano fish I’d personally recommend, along with the honest details on what makes each one work (or not) in a small tank.

    Going Nano

    The most obvious reason to get into nano aquariums is to save on space. Once the aquarium ‘bug’ bites, a lot of us want just one more tank. Aquariums are big, heavy, and can be expensive, but they don’t have to be. Welcome to the world of nano aquariums!

    In the aquarium hobby, nano simply means small. There aren’t really any strict rules about what counts as nano and what doesn’t, but generally, a nano species is one that grows about 2 inches or less in length. Nano tanks would be about 20 gallons or less, but again, just think of the word nano as meaning small.

    A common misconception about nano tanks, however, is that they are easier to maintain than larger aquariums. Actually, keeping small tanks with miniature fish can be a very interesting and hands-on hobby. This is because the smaller the aquarium the more sensitive the system will be to changes in water quality.

    21 Best Nano Fish For Your Freshwater Tank

    Of course, not all fish that are 2 inches or less make great aquarium subjects, so I’ve put together a list of 21 awesome nano fish to get you started. All these fish do really well in nano tanks and are pretty easy to find. For each species, I’ll provide a basic description and some important information like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • Swimming Level

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into greater detail in the blog post below. If you like our video content, please give us a like and subscribe. We post every week!

    So let’s jump right in and get to know the stars of the nano world!

    1. Neon Tetra

    Neon Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed granules or flakes, live and frozen foods
    • Origin: South America, Brazil, Peru, Colombia
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    You only have to take a look at the stunning Neon Tetra to understand why they are one of the most popular freshwater fish for nano tanks. These stunning South American fish are easy to feed and care for, even if you are a beginner.

    Neon Tetras are peaceful fish that work great in community tanks with aquatic plants. Neons are social little fish, so be sure to keep a group of at least 5 or 6 to keep them happy and confident.

    2. Ember Tetra

    Ember Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed granules or flakes, live and frozen foods
    • Origin: South America, Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Ember Tetras are active and colorful little shoaling fish that look especially good in planted aquariums. They are great fun to watch as they swim around actively in the nano aquarium. These beginner fish are very peaceful, making them a perfect addition to community tanks.

    3. Harlequin Rasbora

    How Do Harlequin Rasboras Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Rasbora heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.75 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed granules or flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: Asia, Thailand, Singapore, Malaysia
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Harlequin Rasboras are neat little shoaling fish for nano tanks. The bold black triangular marking and golden orange colors of these fish look amazing as they move around together. The Harlequin Rasbora is a schooling fish that prefer to be in groups, so keep ten or more if possible.

    4. Cardinal Tetra

    Cardinal Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15+ gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed granules or flakes, live and frozen food
    • Origin: South America, Brazil
    • Temperature: 74-78ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    The Cardinal Tetra is another great tiny fish for nano tanks. They are often confused with their smaller neon cousins, although cardinals have a lot more red coloration on their sides. A beautiful crimson shade extends from their tails all the way to their gills.

    Cardinal Tetras contrast incredibly in heavily planted natural aquariums and get along perfectly with other small and peaceful tankmates in nano aquariums.

    5. Pygmy Corydoras

    Pygmy Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, wafers, frozen and live foods.
    • Origin: South America, Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Pygmy Corydoras are great little nano catfish. Like other schooling fish, they should be kept in groups of 6 individuals or more so that they can display all of their natural social behaviors in the nano aquarium.

    Although these little catfish spend most of their time at the bottom of the nano tank, they will also swim around in the midwater, even making occasional trips up to the surface of the water. Cory cats feed by sifting through the substrate, so use sand instead of any sharp gravel that might hurt them.

    6. Longfin White Cloud Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed granules or flakes, live and frozen foods
    • Origin: Asia, China, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The Longfin White Cloud Minnow is an even more attractive version of a classic aquarium species. These colorful little fish come from an area known as the white cloud mountain and do best in cooler water than your typical tropical aquarium fish. These fish should be kept in groups of ten or more to really enjoy all they have to offer.

    7. Cherry Barb

    Cherry Barb Tank Mates
    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed, live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: Asia, Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Although Cherry Barbs are classified as a nano species, they do need a tank of about 20 gallons or more to be at their happiest. Both the males and females have beautiful orange colors, but the males are definitely the more colorful ones, especially when breeding. It is best to keep these barb fish in groups of 6 or more and in a ratio of one male to two females.

    8. Spotted Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live or frozen foods and granules
    • Origin: Asia, Malaysia, Indonesia
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    Spotted Rasboras are true nanos (video source). These slim little shoaling fish reach about an inch in length and are some of the smallest freshwater fish in the hobby. Although they are fairly easy to care for, they are shy by nature so keep them only with very calm and peaceful fish, or even better, in large groups with inverts.

    9. Gold White Cloud Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
    • Diet: Live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: Asia, China
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Gold white clouds are a familiar favorite with even more color than the regular species (video source). These beginner fish get their name from the white cloud mountain region where they were first found in the wild.

    They are shoaling fish that should be kept in cool water tanks, and often do best without heating. These peaceful fish prefer to live in groups of ten or more, although a group of six will also work in a smaller nano aquarium.

    10. Bumblebee Platy

    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Frozen, live, or dried foods
    • Origin: North and South America, Mexico, Nicaragua, Guatemala, and Belize
    • Temperature: 72-80ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Bumblebee Platys get their name from their boldly contrasting black and yellow markings (video source). They are a great beginner community species for home aquariums.

    Keeping more females than males is generally advised. This gives the females a break from the males’ attention. These fish are livebearers, so you can expect plenty of fry if your fish are happy and healthy.

    11. Celestial Pearl Danio

    CELESTIAL PEARL DANIO
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
    • Origin: Asia, Myanmar, Thailand
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Celestial Pearl Danios are often known as CPDs or the Galaxy Rasbora. The popularity of Celestial Pearl Danios is no surprise because they are some of the most stunning nano fish available in the aquarium trade.

    The male fish have bolder markings than the female, but both sexes are really pretty. Celestial Pearl Danios are the perfect species for heavily planted nano tanks.

    12. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.8 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: Asia, Borneo
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, Top

    The Chili Rasbora, Boraras brigittae, is a colorful and active micro Rasbora species that grows to less than an inch in length. This makes them perfect for smaller tanks with shrimp (video source).

    They should be kept in groups of at least 6, although a larger tank with an even larger school is a great option too. Chilli Rasboras will feel most at home and look their best in a soft water tank with plenty of aquatic plants.

    13. Red Pencil Fish

    Pencilfish
    • Scientific Name: Nannostomus beckfordi
    • Adult Size: 1.4 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: carnivorous, Feed live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: South America, Brazil, Venezuela, Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Red Pencil Fish are peaceful community fish that look and feel their best in a nano tank with plenty of live plants and hardscapes like driftwood and rocks. This species of small freshwater fish do great in community aquariums, as long as its nano tank mates are also peaceful and not too big.

    14. Black Neon Tetra

    Black Neon Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed, live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: South America, Brazil
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Black Neon Tetras are hardy freshwater shoaling fish that are a great beginner species. If you’re looking for something a little different from the more popular neons and cardinals, this could be just the fish for you. They are a little larger than some other tetras though, so they should be kept in tank sizes of about 20 gallons or more. On average, Black Neons are hardier than Neons and Cardinal tetras.

    15. Siamese Algae Eater

    Siamese Algae Eater
    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus oblongus
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Diet: Herbivorous, feed pellets and wafers
    • Origin: Asia, Malaysia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The Siamese Algae Eater (SAE) is a great little species that is very useful in the aquarium. They eat algae, which can really help to keep your aquarium looking great.

    Of course, this doesn’t mean you don’t have to feed them regularly as well. SAEs grow to over 6 inches in length, so they do need at least a 40-gallon aquarium to thrive. Not exactly a nano fish, but they work really well in planted tanks.

    16. Clown Killifish

    • Scientific Name: Epiplatys annulatus
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live and frozen foods
    • Origin: Africa, Sierra Leone, Guinea, Liberia
    • Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Top

    If you want a great-looking species of fish for the top water levels of your nano aquarium, the Clown Killifish is a great option (video source). These tiny fish are little predators that like to look for tiny insects on the surface of the water. Clown killifish prefer calm water conditions and should be fed small animal foods like baby brine shrimp.

    17. Glolight Danio

    Glolight Danio
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys choprae
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed live, frozen, and dried foods
    • Origin: Asia, Myanmar
    • Temperature: 72-80ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Glolight Danios are gorgeous little fish for nano tanks, with all-natural colors. This relative of the Celestial Pearl Danio is pretty new to the hobby but has really grown in popularity.

    They are an active species that like to be kept in groups of at least 6. Keep these small danio fish in a tank with lots of plants and a dark substrate to really bring out their colors.

    18. Panda Cory

    Panda Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed live, frozen, and dried pellets/tablets
    • Origin: South America, Peru
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Panda Corys are very distinctive little catfish with their bold black and silvery markings. These active little bottom feeders should be kept in groups so that you can watch them explore the nano tank together with confidence. Panda Corys are very peaceful creatures that work well in community tanks.

    19. Dwarf Honey Red Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna/ Colisa chuna
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive when breeding
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed frozen, live, or dried foods
    • Origin: Asia, India, Bangladesh, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72-80ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The Dwarf Honey Red Gourami is an excellent freshwater fish species with some really fascinating behaviors. These labyrinth fish breathe air from the water surface and they are foam nesters. Dwarf Honey Red Gouramis are great in community tanks if they are kept with other small, peaceful species.

    20. Betta Fish

    Betta in Fish Tank
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Asia, Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    It’s not difficult to see why Betta fish are some of the most popular aquarium fish of all time. These small freshwater fish look amazing and have heaps of personality, making them really great pets. Caring for Betta fish is not as easy as many people think, so be sure to do your homework before bringing one home. Male bettas also have special consideration for tank mates since they are territorial and will fight with other males.

    21. Otocinclus Catfish

    Octocinclus Fish
    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Diet: Algae eaters, feed wafers and vegetables like zucchini
    • Origin: South America, Argentina, Venezuela
    • Temperature: 70-74ยฐF
    • Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater, top

    Otocinclus are probably the best algae-eating fish species for small tanks. Their vegetarian diet means they can be kept safely with even the smallest shrimp.

    Otos spend a lot of the time grazing on algae on the walls of the aquarium and other surfaces like driftwood and leaves. They can be very active though and enjoy swimming around at speed in groups of at least 6.

    How To Set Up Your Tank

    If there’s a specific type of fish that has caught your eye, it is best to set up your tank to suit the needs of the species. The minimum tank sizes listed for freshwater fish species are a good guideline, but if you have the space, choose a tank a little larger to make sure they will be comfortable in their new home.

    Filtration

    Good filtration is vitally important for maintaining a healthy environment for the freshwater fish in your nano tank. The general rule is to opt for a filter model that can process the total water volume 4-6 times every hour. For smaller tanks, a power filter may make more sense. When using nano fish in a planted tank or aquascape, a canister filter is a good option to handle the added bioload of plant waste.

    Some species, like Betta fish for example, really don’t enjoy a strong current in small tank sizes so you might want to look at directing the filter’s outflow in a way that breaks up the water flow, use an air-powered filter like a sponge filter. You can also put a sponge on the intake to keep the fish’s long fins from getting caught.

    The Nitrogen Cycle

    One of the most difficult concepts for beginner aquarists is the nitrogen cycle. There are loads of great resources out there to help you understand this process in-depth, but I’ll give you a quick run-down of the basics here.

    A chemical known as ammonia is released into the water in fish waste and uneaten fish food. Before this chemical can be made safe for your fish, it has to go through two changes.

    First, it is changed into a substance known as nitrite (still dangerous) and finally into nitrate (safe). These changes are made by special bacteria that naturally colonize your tank and your filter.

    The process of building up colonies of these helpful bacteria takes a little while, and that’s why you need to cycle your tank for a month or so before introducing your first new fish.

    Water Quality

    Having a good quality filter set up and let your tank cycle fully are the first steps towards maintaining great water conditions in your nano freshwater aquarium. You’ll also need to perform a regular partial water change because the nitrogen cycle and your filter alone often can’t manage all the waste and uneaten food in your fish tank.

    Make sure you use a water conditioner in the new water you’re putting into your aquarium. Some important tips for keeping your water quality high are to make sure to stock your nano tanks appropriately and to be careful not to overfeed your fish.

    Growing live plants can also help to maintain good water quality. Many freshwater plants are really good at absorbing excess nutrients which can really help to maintain good water conditions.

    Substrates

    If you’re keeping an unplanted fish tank, your choice of substrate will mostly come down to what looks best to your eye. Often, darker colored substrates make the beautiful bright colors of freshwater fish like Neon Tetras really pop.

    If you plan on setting up a planted tank, you may as well start out with a great aquarium soil like Fluval Stratum. If you’ve already set up your nano tank with gravel or sand, don’t worry, root-feeding aquarium plants can still be fed with root tabs.

    One specific point to note is that the cories, which are really popular fish, should not be kept over sharp gravel, and they prefer a sand substrate. This is because they like to dig through the sand to look for food, and sharp edges can really damage their mouths.

    Hiding Places

    Providing plenty of hiding places in your nano tank can often help to keep your fish more confident and healthy. Live plants work for this, or you can make a cave with driftwood or rocks.

    An easy alternative is to use a fish-safe aquarium cave ornament. Hiding places gives any fish that are being bullied or harassed a place to rest, and also keeps fry and baby shrimp safe from hungry fish.

    The Planted Aquarium

    Freshwater nano fish are probably the best tank mates for aquarium plants because they don’t do any harm to the plants, and many of these little fish just love swimming through and hiding amongst live plants. Some great plant species for nano tanks include:

    Check out some of my growing guides in the links above for more great information.

    Biotopes

    Creating a biotype is really just the process of trying to recreate the natural look and feel of the environment where your fish naturally originate. A great biotope would be a community tank with live plants and species of fish that occur together in nature. For example, an Amazon river basin biotope could have fish like tetras, pencilfish, and corydoras, with plants like Amazon Sword.

    Where To Buy

    The freshwater nano fish in this list are all very popular and most can be found at your local fish store. Nano species can be pretty fragile little creatures, so I recommend a trusted online retailer.

    FAQs

    How many fish can be in a small tank?

    The number of fish you can keep in nano tanks will depend on the quality of your filtration, and of course the size and number of fish. Some species need a lot more space than others, for various reasons. It is always better to make sure your fish are happy and healthy rather than to try to fit as many fish as possible into the aquarium.

    What do you feed them?

    One of the challenges when it comes to keeping nano species is providing them with the right food. Small fish have small mouths, so dried foods often need to be ground down to a smaller size. You can do this by simply crushing flake foods and pellets, or even using something like a pepper grinder.

    Feeding frozen or live foods like micro-worms and newly hatched brine shrimp are also essential for keeping your omnivorous or carnivorous fish healthy and looking great.

    Do these tanks need filters?

    Good filtration is really important for maintaining good water quality in nano tanks. Unfortunately, some sellers claim that some fish like bettas don’t need filters. Filtration will greatly improve the lifespan and quality of life of your pets.

    What is a nano aquarium?

    Nano tanks are small aquariums. There isn’t really a universally agreed size limit, but you could consider anything below a 20-gallon tank to be nano.

    What does nano stand for?

    In the aquarium world, nano simply means small. Folks may argue about the actual cut-off lines of what’s nano and what isn’t, but as a general rule, think of any micro fish with an adult length of under 2 inches as a nano species.

    Closing thoughts

    Does the world of nano aquariums sound interesting to you? If so, any of the 21 amazing fish species in this list would look great in your own nano aquarium. The possibilities are really endless once you begin to explore the world of miniature fishkeeping. Please comment below if you have any questions. Happy fishkeeping!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Harlequin Rasbora Care Guide: The Classic Schooling Fish for Community Tanks

    Harlequin Rasbora Care Guide: The Classic Schooling Fish for Community Tanks

    Harlequin rasboras are a fish I’ve kept in community tanks for years, and they never disappoint. That distinctive black triangle patch makes them instantly recognizable, and a school of 10 or more moving together in a planted tank is genuinely striking. They’re also one of the more peaceful and hardy schooling fish available, which makes them a great pick for hobbyists at any level.

    The harlequin rasbora is probably the fish most hobbyists picture when they think of a schooling species โ€” that vivid orange-red body with the distinctive black triangle marking is instantly recognizable. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve recommended harlequins more times than I can count, especially for people setting up their first planted community tank. When you keep a proper school of 8-10 in a well-planted setup, they create exactly the kind of dynamic, flowing display that makes freshwater fishkeeping so rewarding. They’re peaceful with virtually everything their own size or smaller, and while they prefer soft, slightly acidic water, they adapt well to a wide range of conditions. This guide covers everything you need for a healthy, thriving group.

    The last thing youโ€™d want is for this beautiful fish to die on your watch. But thankfully, youโ€™re here. So it will never come to that. 

    Species Of Overview

    Scientific NameTrigonostigma heteromorpha
    Common NamesHarlequin Rasbora, lamb chop rasbora
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginSouth and Southeast Asia
    DietOmnivore (they arenโ€™t picky eaters)
    Care LevelEasy to Care For
    ActivityCalm, friendly and active 
    Lifespan5 to 8 years 
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range71 ยฐ to 80 ยฐF
    Water Hardness6 to 8 dkH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.8, with 6.5 being the optimum 
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg spawners
    Difficulty to BreedVery Difficult to Breed
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Everyone wants these colorful fish in their aquarium because of its cheerful disposition and glistening patterns. Fortunately, this is a beginner-level tropical fish so it isn’t too difficult to keep it healthy.

    Behaviour: What to Expect 

    The first principle of keeping this fish healthy is to understand its basic features and behavioral patterns.

    Harlequin Rasboras are a peaceful fish. They arenโ€™t wily creatures that will drive the other fish crazy around the aquarium. 

    Depending on the company they are kept with, you will see the behavior of these fishes change accordingly. If you pair them with aggressive fish, they will become reclusive. They will find a corner in the aquarium and stay in hiding most of the time. These fishes become somewhat nervous around will exhibit boisterous energy. 

    However, if you keep them with friendly company, they will flourish. These shoaling fish like to stay in the middle of the community tank with their gang when they feel safe. 

    If they are found near the surface of the water or its substrate, thereโ€™s something wrong. 

    Sometimes Rasbora becomes timid if new fish are introduced in the aquarium. So it would help if you kept an eye on them after introducing new fish in their tank. If your Rasboras donโ€™t come out of hiding, then the new fish isnโ€™t good company for them. However, there is nothing to worry about if they do come out of hiding. Itโ€™s natural for them to take their time before they trust the new fish.  

    But donโ€™t be reluctant about introducing new fish into their tank. If there are plenty of fish around to school with, Harlequins are at their best behavior. The more fish in the school, the better. 

    If they are in a big school, you might see some of them nibbling at each other occasionally but that is nothing to be concerned about – this behavior is quite playful and typical from time to time. 

    However, you might see one or two Rasboras become slightly aggressive is when they are spawning. The pregnant rasbora females need a secure place for their eggs, so that they might become vigilant towards other fish coming too close to their spawning area. 

    However, this behavior is rare because it is generally tough to breed Rasboras in the first place. And in any case, if you want to breed Rasboras, transfer them into a separate breeding tank to increase chances of success. 

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Do Harlequin Rasboras Look Like

    Harlequin rasboras look orange but thatโ€™s only a gradient on their silver body. The orange hue runs down from dorsal fins and fades away around the mid-region. A little bit of the orange gradient runs from its tail too, but just as well, it fades off beautifully into the rest of the colors. 

    Their tall mid-section tapers near the mouth and the tail. In the rear part (abdominal region) of the Rasbora’s body, there is a dark black triangular patch characteristic of their uniqueness. 

    Rasboras generally grow around 2 inches in length. They might grow to become slightly bigger than that if you are keeping them in ideal conditions and larger aquariums. 

    One curious thing about them is that their fins change in hue depending on their tank’s conditions and mood. Their fins turn darker in color if their water is unclean or if they are under stress. And if the fish contracts any disease, their fins will always be the first part of their body to show signs on it. 

    Male and female rasboras are similar in size and description. However, the black patch is slightly bigger on the male. Also, males seem to be a bit more orange than the females. The females have more of a golden hue on their entire bodies. And if you see that the belly of a female harlequin rasbora is turning bright, it means there are eggs in its little pouch. 

    The appearance of the harlequin rasbora might not seem too extraordinary to you. Still, since youโ€™re reading this article, weโ€™ll assume that you have seen a school of harlequin rasbora swim together. 

    Rasboras are shoaling fish that are at their best when theyโ€™re together with their bunch. When a school of harlequin rasboras swim together, the features of their body display cool colors and patterns by corresponding in a peculiar manner that is truly impressive to behold. 

    Natural Habitat of Harlequins 

    Harlequin rasbora (Trigonostigma Heteromorpha) are freshwater fish from tropical habitats like rivers, swamp forests, and streams. There are many variables involved here but water chemistry, tank water temperature, and pH value stay the same throughout all of these habitats. 

    Swamps generally have soil substrates that are full of water, but riverbeds are pretty sandy. So you see, there are quite some differences here. The common denominator in both these habitats are aquatic plants. Harlequins like plants very much; when they become timid, they hide behind plants to feel safe.  

    Harlequin Rasbora Care Guide

    These small freshwater fish are accustomed to living in shallow water with an abundance of plant life.

    In their natural habitat, the pH of the water is pretty low. However, the harlequins that you will find in the market have been bred in higher pH. 

    If you got your Rasboras from the store, ask them in which pH these fish were bred. Generally, commercially bred Rasbora stay healthiest if kept in a pH range of 6.8 to 7.8. 

    The alkalinity of water should be around 6 to 8 dkH for store-bought Rasbora. If the alkalinity falls or drops, your fish will become weak due to an inability to get rid of metabolic wastes.  

    The temperature of the water should be 71 to 80 degrees Farenheit. If the temperature goes above this level, oxygen solubility of the water will decrease and your fish will become lethargic.  

    So the water plays the most critical role in keeping the fish healthy. . Make sure always to keep the water conditions at an optimum level. Hereโ€™s what you need to do.

    Tank Size

    You can keep harlequin rasboras in a 10-gallon tank. Bigger tanks are always better, because these are shoaling fish that don’t like to isolate or stay dormant. So whatever you do, make sure that you don’t go with anything smaller than 10 gallons. 

    One rule of thumb is to get a pair of harlequin rasbora for every 2 gallons of water. That way, you get to keep 10 in a 10-gallon tank.

    However, we would strongly suggest you get a bigger tank because the fish will thrive better in a bigger space where they can swim more freely. 

    Tank Preparation

    This is the main deal. If you get a decent tank but set it up incorrectly, the health of your Rasbora will still keep deteriorating. 

    Make A Substrate: Create a soft substrate at the bottom of the tank. Use soil, sand, or gravel to mimic the riverbed or the swampy substrates. 

    The substrate is just to create the same atmosphere as the fish had in their natural habitat. These fish arenโ€™t bottom-dwellers, so youโ€™ll rarely see them poke around near the bottom but you still have to create a suitable habitat for them with the substrate. 

    Add Plants: Put some nice, aquatic plants in the tank so that your harlequin rasbora can go into hiding if they feel stressed or threatened in any way. You can also add rocks and other ornamental artifacts in the aquarium to make the tank atmosphere aesthetically pleasing. 

    Control Water Parameters: Use a heater to control the temperature of water against the changing temperatures outside. Stick a thermometer onto the tank and keep an eye on it to check the temperature of the water from time to time.  

    Setting Up A Breeding Tank For the Harlequin Rasbora

    It isn’t easy to breed a rasbora in a regular community tank at home because they need very specific conditions for successful fertilization to occur. 

    You need to transfer the breedable Harlequins to a separate tank and create the perfect breeding conditions. 

    Put soft water in the tank, aim to stay within 1.5 to 2.5 dkH of their preferred hardness of 7. The temperature should be 71 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Then put in their favorite plants – Cryptocoryne. This plant has broad leaves that are perfect for them to hide behind while theyโ€™re spawning. 

    Keep the breeding tank in low light, because bright lights make Rasboras somewhat nervous.

    If the tank conditions arenโ€™t perfect, then the fish wonโ€™t be fully fertile. So learn how to make soft water and how to adjust the pH of water before you attempt this. 

    For more information on the intricate details of the actual breeding process, watch this video from Mark’s Aquatics

    Tank Mates 

    Rasboras are schooling fish, so they like to swim around with a lot of tank mates. Donโ€™t keep them on their own because they will become shy and reclusive. While they look to be around many types of fish, you still will need to be meticulous when choosing their company. It will help if they are kept in the company of fish with which they can be cheerful and active but never fall prey.

    Good Tank Mates

    The good news is that plenty of magnificently colored peace-loving fish can be kept with schools of Harlequin Rasboras. Here are just a few fish and inverts that work well: 

    Bad Tank Mates

    Any fish that is twice the size of your Harlequin Rasboras shouldnโ€™t be kept in the same tank with it. They say itโ€™s better to be safe than sorry. So you should keep your fish safe in the tank to avoid feeling stressed out about them during the day. Some of the fish that you should definitely avoid are:

    Note: Some Betta fish lovers will argue that Betta fish is too slow a swimmer to ever harm the Harlequin Rasbora. However, this can still be a mixed bag. For one, a school of Rasbora can feed quickly and leave a Betta with very little to eat. There are also more athletic Bettas like Plakats that can potentially harass your Rasbora school. The Betta and the Rasbora will likely come close if they live in a tank together – especially if the tank is small. So if you want to protect your rasboras, we suggest you to not take chances with a Betta fish. 

    What Do They Eat?

    Thankfully, harlequin rasboras arenโ€™t fussy eaters. They are omnivorous, so they will eat pretty much anything starting with zooplankton, worms, crustaceans, and small insects that are edible. All you have to do is make sure that the food isnโ€™t toxic for them. 

    Since you want your rasboras to be healthy, take some out to condition them to a healthy, all-inclusive harlequin rasbora diet by introducing a variety of foods to them in tiny amounts. Do note that they have tiny mouths, so it’s better to not give them anything that isn’t bite-sized. 

    When they first come to live in your aquarium they will be a bit shy, so you need to draw them out by giving them proper foods. Start off with herbivore fish foods such as Algae Wafers and Spirulina. Give them good quality fish food, a range of greens like blanched spinach, water lettuce, and then slowly introduce them to live food and frozen food. A good staple food to try is Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

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    Rasboras are particularly found of Daphnia, shrimp, blackworms, and bloodworms. They will eat these meaty options live and frozen. When you give them live food, they will become overly enthusiastic and chase it around for a bit before eating it – it’s quite adorable to watch, really. 

    Diseases That Affect The Rasboras

    Rasboras are hardy fish from the streams, rivers and swamps, so they donโ€™t get sick easily. Here are some of the diseases that might inflict suffering on your beloved fish. 

    Fungal Infections

    This is the most common disease that Harlequin Rasboras get. If left untreated it starts to damage vital organs like liver, brain, lungs, etc. 

    Cause: Ichthyosporidium, Exophiala sp., and Flavobacterium columnare

    Signs: Patches on the gills and skin, slimy layer on the surface of their skin, and skin turning brown.

    Treatment: Isolate the infected fish from its tank mates, add aquarium salt in water, get rid of chlorine from the tank water, increase the water temperature to 77 Fahrenheit, and try an over the counter medication like API Fungus Cure.

    Ich/White Spot Disease  

    This persistent disease is another widespread one for rasboras. External parasites will cling onto the fishโ€™s body and cause white spots to appear on its skin and gills.

    Cause: Ichthyophthirius Multifiliis (an Ectoparasite), contact with other infected fish, sudden shifts in the water temperature of the aquarium, decorative plants that have parasitic cysts on them.     

    Signs: Crystals formation on the body, skin becoming slimy, asthmatic breathing, itching against rough surfaces, and hiding for days on end.    

    Treatment: Bring the water temperature up to 71.8 to 86 degrees Fahrenheit, or try an over the counter medication like Ich-X

    Columnaris 

    This disease is highly contagious, but it only affects freshwater fish. 

    Cause: Low oxygen levels in the tank, and temperature of 80 Fahrenheit degrees.

    Signs: Ulcerations on the skin, visible accumulation of mucus in its gills, and dorsal fin, noticeably long periods of time gone without eating.  

    Treatment: Stabilize the water temperature, and consult the vet for antibiotics or try an antibiotic like APIโ€™s Furan-2

    Dropsy 

    This is basically kidney failure. Water and other fluids accumulate in the body and cause swelling in the abdomen. 

    Cause: Aeromonas bacteria, water with excess ammonia and nitrites

    Signs: Irregular swimming, gills losing color, scales standing out, stringy faeces, and bloating belly. 

    Treatment: See the freshwater disease link posted above.

    Fin and Tail Rotting 

    The tissues of the tail and fins start rotting outwards in. The rotting might start from a wound that your fish already has, and it also may happen because of unclean water. 

    Cause: Dirty water, overfeeding, low-nutrition food, and high levels of stress. 

    Signs: It starts with inflammation of the fins. Then the fins start to lose color and eventually start becoming very fragile. 

    Treatment: Clean the water, optimize the temperature and pH of the water in the tank. Use a medication like SeaChem KanaPlex.

    Conclusion 

    To watch your Harlequin Rasboras live their best life, make sure you keep them with friendly tank mates. Remember to give them proper sustenance, remove any excess leftover from their waters, and do remember to clean the entire tank every 2 to 3 weeks. May your beautiful Harlequin Rasboras live long and keep many more of your guests in awe! 

    We hope you didnโ€™t have any trouble following our instructions about proper Harlequin Rasbora care. With a little bit of mindfulness, you can keep your fish very active and healthy. Best of luck! 

    Meta: Learn Harlequin Rasbora care, and give your beautiful rasboras their best life.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Best CO2 System for Planted Aquariums โ€“ Reviewed After Real-World Testing

    Best CO2 System for Planted Aquariums โ€“ Reviewed After Real-World Testing

    Adding CO2 to a planted tank is the single biggest upgrade I’ve made in my own setups, and the difference in plant growth is night and day. I’ve run both pressurized CO2 and DIY systems over the years, and I can tell you from experience which setups are worth the investment and which ones will frustrate you. A good CO2 system paired with proper lighting transforms an ordinary planted tank into something truly special.

    CO2 injection is the single biggest upgrade you can make to a planted tank โ€” the difference in plant growth between a CO2-injected system and a non-CO2 setup is dramatic, and I’ve seen it firsthand in my own tanks. That said, CO2 systems have a learning curve: you need the right equipment, correct diffusion, and dialed-in timing to get consistent results without harming your fish. After testing multiple systems over the years, I can tell you what to look for and which setups are actually worth the investment at different price points.

    As a quick disclosure, this post will include affiliate links for which I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase. Now, let’s get on to the topic. Let’s first start with CO2 in nature.

    Understanding the Role of CO2 in Nature

    This actually may surprise you, but the majority of plants available for sale in our hobby are marsh plants. These plants have the ability to grow either submerged or above the water. Many of these plants would actually prefer to grow above the water! The main reason why is CO2.

    You see, gas diffusion in water is 1,000s of times slower in water compared to our air above the water. This means it is much easier for plants to breath in the CO2 in our atmosphere versus taking it in completely submerged in water. It is much easier for these plants to get their CO2 needs met above the water. In fact, many of these plants in nature will seek higher ground by growing on rocks. Knowing that you can actually grow plants above water in one reason why advanced aquarists will do “dry starts” in planted tanks to establish plants and then fill with water for an easier start.

    This is also a drawback if the plant matures out of the the water. Aquatic plants adapt in the water so they can work with the slower gas diffusion. Plants maturing out of the water will be thicker and heavier. In water, they will be more spread out and lighter. It is also a industry secret not known to many aquarists that aquaculture farms will actually grow their aquatic plants emerged. This is primarily to fuel rapid grow and also to save on the cost of CO2 injection. CO2 is plenty in our atmosphere, but we need to work harder to get better conditions in the water.

    CO2 Levels For Aquatic Plants In The Wild 

    It is a fact that most natural environments where our aquatic plants grow are evaluated in CO2. Many of our plants naturally grow in springs or river banks. These areas get flooded in CO2 as it cannot gas off leaving to extended periods of high CO2 levels. At its peak, we are taking about levels as high as 50 ppm of CO2. A non-CO2 injected aquarium will only have at most 3 ppm of CO2. That is a world’s amount of difference!

    Plants can obtain the CO2 that they need in other ways, but the process is very energy intensive and not as efficient. We also have to keep in mind that around 50% of our plant dry mass is carbon! An aquatic plant will use nearly 10 times more carbon than any other macro or micro nutrient in your water. 

    Take a second to think about that. Many companies try to sell you on fertilizers and substrates, but the golden ticket to killer growth is CO2! This is why we really need to take CO2 injection seriously if we want to create a show stopping aquascape.

    How Much Does It Cost To Set This Up?

    You will need three critical parts for a proper CO2 system:

    • CO2 Regulator
    • Diffusor
    • CO2 tank

    Of all three components, the CO2 regulator is the most important of the bunch. If you go low quality on the CO2 regulator you make have missing features like a bubble counter or needle valves that are not precise. The check valve may also not be reliable.

    On average it will cost you about $200 to setup a proper CO2 system in a 40G tank. To maintain levels, it will cost about $5 a month to refill your tank with CO2. If CO2 injection is too much for your budget, it would be best to consider aquarium plants that will thrive without CO2 injections. These low tech plants will include ones like Java Fern, Pearl Weed, and Dwarf Sagitt.

    In a hurry? I recommend the CO2 Art Pro-Elite Series CO2 Regulator Make sure to use my coupon code ASD10%Off when checking out!

    The list below are CO2 system parts for you to consider. I will weigh in with the pros and cons of each part. There is a complete I will show you later in the post that has great valve. There is a complete readily available on the market from Fluval, but it’s so undersized and the replacement CO2 cans are so expensive I can’t recommended it. All of these components when put together will competently manage CO2 levels in your planted tank. 

    ImageNameTypeLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    CO2 Art Pro-Elite Series CO2 Regulator
    CO2 Art Pro-Elite Series CO2 Regulator

    CO2 Regulator

    Click For Best Price
    Best Value
    CO2 Art Pro-SE CO2 Regulator
    CO2 Art Pro-SE CO2 Regulator

    Co2 Regulator

    Click For Best Price
    Budget Option
    FZone Aquarium CO2 Regulator
    FZone Aquarium CO2 Regulator

    CO2 Regulator

    Buy On Amazon
    NilocG Aquatics CO2 Regulator NilocG Aquatics CO2 Regulator

    CO2 Regulator

    Buy On Amazon
    CO2 Art Diffusor CO2 Art Diffusor

    Diffusor

    Click For Best Price
    Sera Flore CO2 Reactor Sera Flore CO2 Reactor

    Diffusor

    Buy On Amazon
    Mr. Aqua Turbo Diffusor Mr. Aqua Turbo Diffusor

    Diffusor

    Buy On Amazon
    Coldbreak 5lb CO2 Tank Coldbreak 5lb CO2 Tank

    CO2 Tank

    Buy On Amazon

    The Best 2023 Reviews

    Let’s go into detailed review of each component below.

    1. Art Pro-Elite Series Regulator – The Best Regulator

    Editor’s Choice
    CO2 Art PRO-SE Series

    Best CO2 Regulator

    Professional level CO2 Regulator for top level aquascapers and reef tank owners. Backed by a 10 year warranty

    Click For Best Price

    Let’s start of the list with the best of the best. If you are a looking to do a professional level planted tank or large planted system this is the CO2 regulator to buy. CO2 Art is a private company based in Las Vegas. The top of the line Pro-Elite Series comes with a 10 year warranty with a maximum working pressure of 80PSI.

    This series is so well received it has the endorsement of George Farmer – one of the most renowned aquascapers on YouTube — and that was the last generation that he endorsed! This regulator is the newest generation built for aquariums up to 1000 gallons in size. It has a fully customized solenoid block with a high precision needle valve, check valve, and a bubble counter. 

    The craftsmanship on this CO2 regulator is world class. CO2 Art backs up their product with a industry leading lifetime technical support and access to their support portal. You will never be alone when running your CO2 system again!

    World class systems come with a high price tag. This is the most expensive CO2 regulator on our list. That is the cons I can think of! It is an amazing product and worth every penny! See Full Review.

    You can also use my code ASD10%Off and get 10% off your purchase!

    Pros

    • 10 year warranty
    • Incredible craftsmanship
    • Awesome support

    Cons

    • Expensive

    2. Art Pro-Elite Series Regulator – The Best Value Regulator

    Best Value
    CO2 Art Pro-Elite

    Best Value

    A budget friendly version of the SE series. This has the quality of CO2 art with a great price. Highly recommended!

    Click For Best Price

    The CO2 Art Elite Series is a great regulator. However, it’s expensive. Fortunately, CO2 art sells a budget friendly regulator called the Pro-SE Series. This unit has the ability to work with pressure up to 40 PSI. You get all the benefits of CO2 art’s awesome technical support at a lower price with this unit. You do not skip out on quality by getting their lower priced model. I would say this regulator will handle the majority of planted aquarium enthusiasts’ needs. The bubble counter and needle valve are extremely accurate due to its precision craftsmanship. 

    The main thing you sacrifice by going with the Pro-SE Series is the warranty. CO2 Art offers a 5 year warranty on this system. Nevertheless, a 5 year warranty is going to be better than the vast majority of CO2 regulators on the market!

    Make sure to use my code ASD10%Off purchasing from CO2art!

    Pros

    • Cheaper than elite series
    • Incredible craftsmanship
    • Awesome support

    Cons

    • 5 year vs 10 year warranty

    3. FZone Aquarium Regulator – The Best Budget Regulator

    FZONE CO2 Regulator

    Budget Option

    ๏ปฟA great budget option with proven results. FZone is a top selling Regulator fort those looking for value

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    The FZone CO2 Regulator is a comprehensive CO2 regulator that is available at a reasonable price for aquarists. It is surprisingly high quality given it’s price point. This is coming from a person who is used to seeing high quality CO2 regulators command prices over $200. This regulator also has the advantage of being DC powered, which means it will draw less electricity to operate and is easier to accommodate in the event of a power outage. This package also comes with a bubble counter – which will allow you check the flow of your CO2 using a high precision needle valve. This CO2 regulator offers the same features that you expect with higher priced regulators and FZone also offers a Triple Stage Regulator. The bubble counter also has a check valve feature.

    It will not fit paintball tanks standard, but the accessory to accommodate them is not that expensive. It also only offers a 1 year warranty. However, given it’s features and price it’s a good choice to consider.

    Pros

    • Dual Gauges
    • DC Powered
    • Reasonable Price

    Cons

    • Will not fit paintball tanks
    • 1 year warranty

    4. NilocG Aquatics Regulator – Small But Mighty

    NilocG Aquatics Aquarium Co2 Regulator

    The NilocG Regulator is great for people who do not have space for a traditional regulator and CO2 tank setup

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    The NilocG CO2 Regulator offers a good choice for those with limited space or who want to use a paintball tank instead of a standard CO2 tank.It is an all aluminum construction that is high quality. It lacks a few features of the others like a bubble counter, but it’s the size that is the main selling point here. The needle valve is fairly accurate. It’s a better consideration than the Fluval kits for those will smaller tanks.

    Pros

    • Size
    • Aluminum construction — won’t rust
    • Fits paintball tanks out of the box

    Cons

    • Expensive for size
    • No bubble counter
    • No check valve

    5. Art Inline Diffuser – The Best Diffuser

    CO2Art Inline Diffuser

    Best CO2 Diffusor

    The CO2 Diffusor is a high quality inline diffusor that works great with canister filters

    Click For Best Price

    When it comes to a diffusors on a CO2 system. There are three choices we have in our systems. There are standard diffusors, which are what we mostly see. They are cheap, need to be maintained often, have to be kept inside the display tank, and some are not as reliable as they should be.

    This brings us to the next type of diffusion method, which is an inline atomizer. This are fitted inline with a filter like a Canister Filter and are less effected by flow inside the display tank. They produce an very fine mist, which makes the bubbles less noticeable in the tank. This Diffuser by CO2Art is the best choice if you want to use one. It is a high quality atomizer that will only need to be cleaned every 2-4 months and will provide service for a lifetime. They can handle a large amount of pressure and can service larger tanks. The construction is great like all CO2 Art products. See the video below for more details.

    Pros

    • Heavy duty built
    • Works in-line with filter or pump
    • No large bubbles in tank

    Cons

    • Requires higher pressure from your regulator
    • Expensive

    6. Sera Flore Reactor – Eliminate Mist

    Sera Flore Active CO2 Reactor

    Works externally or interally. A great option for those looking for a CO2 reactor

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    At the premium level of diffusion for CO2, we have CO2 reactors. These reactors capture CO2 and keeps it running in its chamber until full dissolution is achieved. This is great tool for those of us who want a bubble free, mist free display tank. They are more effective than diffusors or atomizers, but require a bit more touch to get right. You also have to purchase the correct size to handle your load.

    This CO2 Reactor From Sera Flore is a great selection for a CO2 reactor. They can work externally or internally, which make them a great option for those with Aquarium Sumps.

    Pros

    • Bubble and mist free CO2 dissolution
    • Most effective dissolution method
    • Well built

    Cons

    • Requires higher GPH to operate correctly
    • Expensive

    7. Mr. Aqua Turbo Diffuser – Easy Solution for Sumped Tanks

    Mr. Aqua Turbo Diffuser 400

    A great hidden and silent option for those with aquarium sumps

    Buy On Amazon

    The Mr. Aqua Turbo Diffuser is a great choice for those of us with Aquarium Sumps. It’s a modified powerhead that goes internally in your aquarium and works to dissolve CO2. What I like about it is that it is simple and effective. It’s a separate piece of equipment, so it makes it easier to unplug and maintain instead of taking out your plumbing with an inline reactor. Cleaning is just easier and dummy proof in my mind and easier to replace if it breaks.

    It is ugly to place inside your display tank, especially with that giant printed text logo. I prefer to keep everything out of the display tank for aesthetic purposes. This simple piece of equipment fits the bill.

    Pros

    • Stand alone equipment
    • Easy to service and clean
    • Can work in a sump

    Cons

    • Expensive for what it is
    • Looks ugly inside a tank

    8. Coldbreak Tank – Cheap Tank

    Coldbreak CO2 Tank

    A quality and value priced CO2 tank that is quick and easy to purchase online

    Buy On Amazon

    The beermaking hobby has definitely made CO2 gear cheaper and easier to find. This CO2 Tank from Coldbreak is a high quality CO2 tank for a very reasonable price. It’s easy to order from Amazon and is quickly delivered. Once you have one of these on hand, it’s easy to exchange your CO2 tank from a local welding shop or brewery. Make sure any tank you get has hydrostatic stamps. This means they have been tested and get re-tested every 5 years.

    Pros

    • Reasonable price
    • Durable and sturdy 
    • Easy and convenient to order

    Cons

    • Cheaper to buy secondhand if you can find it

    Additional Equipment to Consider

    I have supplied a list of recommended equipment that is reasonably priced that will get you going with great success. There are other pieces of equipment you may want to consider that are theoretically optional, but recommended.

    The first would be a timer. The reason for this is to save on CO2 and to properly dial in your system when your plants need it. With a timer, you will want to set your CO2 system to turn on 2 hours before your lights come on and turn off 1 hour before your lights go off. Having a timer makes this dummy proof and easy to implement. In general, most tanks will have CO2 turned on for about 8 hours per day.

    You do not need a fancy timer or a controller to achieve this. A simple Mechanical Timer will do the job reliably.

    The next piece of equipment would be a Drop Checker. This drop checker will monitor your CO2 levels and let you know if you are over or under dosing CO2. This particular Drop Checker works like a Seachem Ammonia Alert badge in that it is easy to read and easy to use. This is a standard on how to monitor your CO2 levels. There is a more advanced method of monitoring your pH drops when your CO2 system is off, but that to me is a more advanced topic. You can also look for warning signs from your livestock. Livestock that are in CO2 levels that are too high will show signs of stress. These signs will include lowered activity, erratic behavior, inverts like snails going above the water line, and fish moving towards areas of high flow. You want to aim for keeping your CO2 levels from 20 – 35ppm. A drop checker will turn green at 30ppm indicating that you are in the “sweet spot” of CO2 saturation.

    Stainless Steel Skimmer

    The final piece of equipment would be a surface skimmer. This Stainless Steel Surface Skimmer fits the bill with it’s clean design and function. Surface skimmers increase gas exchange and will keep your water surface clean. The improved gas exchange from the skimmer will help optimize your CO2 levels. It’s a reasonable investment to make considering that they are so invaluable to a top notch planted tank.

    How To Setup For A Planted Tank

    Setting up a CO2 System can seem like an intimating affair, but the equipment recommended here will make installation easier than you think. Once you have installed your system, you will want to aim to have your CO2 system operating at 30-40 PSI. This video by ADU Aquascaping will help visualize a standard installation of most CO2 systems you will purchase.

    Want A Done For You Kit? – A High End Option

    Do you want a kit that have everything you would to operate a CO2 system? Let me take the guesswork out of your purchase by introducing to you the CO2 Art CO2 System. This is the best value for a high quality CO2 system that you will find!

    Premium Pick
    Pro-SE Complete Bundle

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    Everything you need to get started. A professional level CO2 system.

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    With this kit, you get a Pro-SE regulator, inline diffusor, drop checker and fluid, and CO2 resistant tubing. All you need is a CO2 tank and you are set to go. This is a great package for top of the line equipment at a great price. Click the button below to get the best price from CO2 Art directly. Make sure to use my coupon code ASD10%Off when checking out!

    FAQS

    Does This Harm Fish?

    It actually can if the saturation levels get too high for too long. This is why you must monitor your levels. Looks for the warning signs I mentioned earlier.

    Do They Need Carbon Dioxide?

    As I have mentioned earlier in the article, many of our aquarium plants in the wild are used to higher levels of CO2 then what is in a non-CO2 injected tank. As a result, many plants available in the trade will not grow to their full potential if CO2 injection is not supplied. CO2 levels at an optimum level will not only make your plants grow faster, but it will impact their coloration, health, and form. The comparisons between a non-CO2 tank and one that is injected are worlds apart. If you are serious about building a great looking aquascape, CO2 is a must consideration. It’s actually more important than substrate.

    Can A Low Light Plant Benefit from this?

    Absolutely! CO2 is such a critical health component to an aquarium plant. Low Light Aquarium Plants + low powered lights + CO2 setup is actually a great way to have slower but healthy growth in your aquascape. Can’t complain about less pruning :).ย 

    How Do I Give My Aquarium Plants Carbon Dioxide?

    You can give your aquarium plants CO2 either with a supplementary product like Seachem Excel or by injecting CO2 with a CO2 system. A CO2 system is considered the best way to reliability deliver CO2 to plants and keep levels stable.

    Closing Thoughts (Best Carbon Dioxide)

    I hope I have done a good job at explaining the benefits and reasons why to consider CO2 injection in your planted aquarium. I also hope I have achieve my goal of presenting the best CO2 system parts for your desired setup. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Thank you for reading!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Vallisneria Care – A Complete Guide

    Vallisneria Care – A Complete Guide

    Vallisneria is one of those plants I always keep in my larger tanks โ€” it grows fast, reaches impressive height, and creates a natural background that smaller plants can’t match. I’ve used it in community setups and it does well without CO2 injection, which makes it accessible for hobbyists who aren’t running a high-tech system. The runners it produces mean one plant quickly becomes many, and it fills in beautifully over time.

    If you like plants that grow fast and look great, Vallisneria deserves your attention. These plants look fantastic in the background, and sometimes even the midground of planted tanks. If they have one weakness, it is that they grow a little too fast and too big for some tanks.

    Read on to learn about Vallisneria care, and find out if this is the right plant for you!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameVallisneria spiralis, V. americana, V. nana
    Common NamesVal, Eelgrass, Tape Grass, Jungle Val
    FamilyHydrocharitaceae
    OriginAfrica, North America, South America, Asia, Australia, Europe
    Skill LevelEasy
    Lightinglow-high, 40-200PAR (Umols)
    Tank PlacementBackground
    Flow RateModerate, High
    Temperature Range59 โ€“ 86ยฐF
    Height12 โ€“ 72+ inches
    pH Range6.5 โ€“ 8.5
    ProprogationRunners from main plant
    Growth RateFast
    Feed TypeRoot Feeder
    Co2 RequirementOptional

    Origins And Habitat

    The Vallisneria plant takes its name from Italian scientist Antonio Vallisneri from the 18th century1. They are really widespread aquatic plants, and one species or another can be found growing on every continent of the world except Antarctica.

    These are fully aquatic plants that cannot be grown emersed. In nature, they grow in a wide range of habitats, from still waters to fast-flowing river environments and at depths of as much as 20 feet.

    Like many other aquatic species, Vallisneria plants have been spread to many different parts of the world. Always take care to not let your aquarium plant trimmings get into local waterways.

    What Does Vallisneria Look Like?

    Vallisneria Plant

    Vals are tall rosette aquatic plants that have a very grass-like appearance. The leaf margins have small spines, and the shape of the leaves is pretty variable, being either straight, twisted, or spiraled.

    The leaf width also varies and can be strap-like up to an inch across or very narrow, almost like Hairgrass (Eleocharis). Vallisneria leaves are light green and grow upwards, reaching as long as 7 feet in some types.

    These plants grow from green runners or stolons, which they send out over the top of the substrate before sending out roots. When they grow out of the water they will have flowering and seed production

    Placement And Lighting

    Vallisneria is most often grown as a background plant. Another interesting way to use this plant in the aquascape is to grow it on one end of a long planted tank, with the current pushing the leaf tips towards the center of the aquarium.

    Smaller forms with twisted and spiral leaves can be very effective if grown in bunches in the mid-ground of aquariums.  An important factor to consider before adding this plant to any aquascape is just how fast it can spread.

    If you’re looking for a low-maintenance aquascape that doesn’t need any trimming, Vallisneria might not be the plant for you. These plants have a habit of sending runners out and popping up all over the place.

    It is one of the best aquatic plants for really tall tanks, however, and jungle vals, in particular, are one of the few good options available. If you like the idea of a densely planted aquarium, this one is for you.

    Vallisneria plants don’t need especially strong planted tank lighting. They will grow best under moderate to high lighting.

    Corkscrew Vallisneria in particular tends to prefer brighter light than other forms. Although they can be grown under the same moderate lighting, stronger light will encourage better leaf color and twisting in this form.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    The leaves of Vallisneria spiralis and the other vals are hard and difficult to digest. This makes them pretty unattractive to hungry herbivorous fish.

    This is great news because it means they are one of the few plants that can be kept with plant-eaters.

    Good Tank Mates

    Guppy Fish

    Vals make great tank mates for most tropical and cool water freshwater fish, including African cichlids, which is great because these fish can be pretty destructive when kept with many other aquarium plants. Some other great options include:

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Although goldfish are known to feed on this plant, vals are fast-growing and can probably keep up with the demand. This is still a plant that should be used with caution in goldfish tanks though. Avoid fish that prefer lower pH like:

    Feeding and Fertilization

    Vallisneria plants are root feeders which means they gain almost all the nutrients they need to live and grow from the substrate. Vals are not particularly heavy feeders and do well with just the excess nutrients from fish waste and food in the system.

    For improved plant growth, however, using root tabs as an aquarium fertilizer is advised, especially if you are growing your vals in an inert material like aquarium sand or gravel. They also do better with an iron rich fertilizer.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Seachem Flourish or Tropical Tabs root tabs are a great, long-lasting source of nutrition for your plants that only need to be replaced after 3 or 4 months in most situations.

    These dry tablets should be spaced at a distance of 4-6 inches from each other for the evenest spread, but you can also place them near the root zones of each plant.

    CO2 Injection

    Vals don’t need added carbon dioxide injection for good plant growth in the aquarium but they will definitely look and grow better in a high-tech setup. If you do run CO2 in your tank, just make sure to keep your levels to 30 ppm or less for the safety of your livestock.

    It is best to have the system switch off at the same time as your lights since your Vallisnerias won’t be able to use the CO2 in the absence of light.  

    Types

    There are a few different species of Vallisneria available in the aquarium hobby, but telling them apart to a species level can be very tricky. This is mostly because the plants can grow in different forms depending on the water conditions they are in.

    •  Vallisneria americana is a common species in the hobby, that tends to be larger and have straighter leaves.
    • Vallisneria spiralis is a great species for small to medium size aquariums because it usually grows to about 20 inches or so in height.
    • Vallisneria nana- This Australian species grows slightly less vigorously than the others. It is popular for its very narrow leaves, which give it the appearance of a taller hairgrass.
    • Jungle Val- This large eelgrass is also known as ‘Gigantea’. Jungle Val is actually a form of V. americana and is known for its extra-long leaves that can grow to over an inch across. This is a great plant for aquarists with large, tall aquariums.

    Care

    Vallisneria spiralis and the other vals are very easy aquatic plants to care for if they are planted in a suitable environment. In fact, happy vals grow shoots and spread so fast that they can really keep the aquarist busy, especially if they are trying to keep it in just one part of the aquarium.

    One important piece of equipment that you’re going to want to invest in is a decent pair of aquascaping scissors for trimming and removing unwanted stolons from the plant. Although you can get by with just one pair, a straight set is most useful for cutting the runners while a curved pair will work best for trimming the leaf blades.

    Fortunately, these scissors can be picked up pretty cheap and often come as part of neat aquascaping combo kits. When it comes to Vallisneria, they are undemanding in care, but can be demanding for maintenance due to their growth.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Vallisneria is a pretty easy-going plant that does well in a variety of parameters. They do prefer harder alkaline water and can even survive in slightly brackish conditions.  A GH of 4-18 and a pH of 6.5-8.5 is ideal. In terms of water temperature, anything between 59-86 ยฐF is acceptable. Due to their wide range, they do not need an aquarium heater. You only need on if you have tropical fish like a Betta Fish.

    Water Quality

    Vallisneria is not a plant that is particularly sensitive to water quality. Nevertheless, the aquarist should always strive to maintain a healthy aquatic environment by performing regular partial water changes and routine aquarium maintenance.  

    Filtration 

    You do not need any particular type of filter to successfully grow Vallisneria in your aquarium. Power filters that create good water movement are a good choice, however, because these aquatic plants do well in a bit of current.

    Whichever type of filter you choose, a good rule of thumb is to select a model that can process the total volume of your aquarium 4 to 6 times every hour.

    Flow

    Depending on the species, Vallisneria can grow in anything from still water to surprisingly strong-flowing rivers. This makes them adaptable to just about any flow conditions that you might have.

    Vallisneria looks great with a bit of movement and a tall Jungle Val with its leaves all bent over in the same direction at the top of the tank can make for a very attractive and interesting display. You can distribute flow really well with the use of a Lily Pipe. This will give the plant more natural movement in the planted aquarium.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance is a crucial side of keeping a healthy planted aquarium. Apart from performing your regular water change, you should also keep your substrate vacuumed and your glass clean of algae.

    A common mistake that beginners make is to clean out their filters or replace the filter media cartridges too often. While it may seem like a great idea to keep your filter sponge squeaky clean, the fact is that your filter is home to vast numbers of pretty sensitive bacteria.

    These bacteria are absolutely vital for converting harmful chemicals in the water into safe ones. For this reason, rinse out your filter media rather than replacing it when it becomes clogged up.

    Use the old water from a water change to rinse the sponge because chemicals in tap water can kill the bacteria.

    Testing Water Conditions

    The best way to know if you have a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria in your filter and if you’re performing frequent and big enough water changes, is to test your water regularly with test kits.

    Keep a close eye on your levels of ammonia and nitrites in particular because these are the most dangerous for your fish and animals.

    Apart from these biological parameters, your test kit should be used to measure your parameters before stocking new plants or fish. Test kits are inexpensive but a very valuable addition to your aquarium equipment.  

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    Vallisneria is a large aquarium plant that grows from a well-developed root system. Use a sandy substrate of 3 or 4 inches deep.  Plain, washed gravel or aquarium sand works well, or you can use special enriched aquarium soils for improved growth.

    Vals look amazing when they grow tall and sweep over the surface of the tank, but they will shade out any other plants growing below, and leaves that grow out of the water and dry out die. For this reason, Vallisneria (especially Jungle Val) is best grown in tall tanks.

    Although the smaller types like spriralis and tortifolia can be grown in smaller tanks, 15 gallons or so is probably the bottom limit in terms of tank size. Any smaller and the leaves are likely to grow too long and the plants can easily take over the floor space.

    Here is a great video by TheGreenMachine on how to prep Vallisneria for planting.

    How To Propagate

    Vallisneria is such an easy plant to propagate that it tends to propagate itself without any help at all!

    Vallisneria sends out long stolons that grow new plantlets, before continuing their journey across the top of the substrate and repeating the process. You can let nature take its course or cut the stolons and replant the daughter plants where you like.

    Vals grow roots fast, and if you have a capped substrate, or a dirted tank, pulling the plantlets out can get pretty messy. For this reason, you should time it to pull them out once they have a few good roots, but before they grow too large.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health

    Healthy Vallisneria has a bright green color and leaves that are firm but flexible. They will produce fast-growing runners and a strong root system.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Vallisneria leaves that are yellow, brown, or transparent are in poor health.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    One common problem that first-time Vallisneria growers have is planting them too deep. Covering the crown of the plant with soil or gravel will result in rotting and melting. The best way to solve this problem is to gently lift the plant up until its crown is exposed and allow it time to recover.

    If your light and nutrients are out of balance, hair algae can grow from the leaves of your Vallisneria plant. Although you will have to address the cause of the algae problem, you can trim off the affected leaves with your aquascaping scissors.

    Apart from the usual melt that many aquatic plants go through when first adjusting to the new water parameters in your aquarium, trimming can also cause this common problem.

    There is always a chance that trimmed leaves will die back, but your best chance of avoiding this is to use a sharp pair of scissors. Dull blades tend to tear, rather than slice, and this causes significant damage that the plants may not be able to repair.

    Plant Pests

    Sometimes when you bring a new Vallisneria home, you get more than you bargained for. Aquatic invertebrates like worms and aquarium snails can be very common in the facilities where the plants are grown and will often hide amongst the leaves of your plant, before making themselves at home in your tank.

    Inspect new live plants carefully and remove any eggs or invertebrates that you find before planting them in your tank.

    Where To Buy

    Vals are very common plants in the freshwater aquarium trade and are usually very affordable. You should have no problem picking up a few plants at your local fishkeeping shop or pet store.

    Buying this aquarium plant can be a bit of a gamble, however, because sometimes the plants are mislabeled and you might not be getting quite what you bargained for. Chat with the salesman a bit to make sure they know their stuff if you shop locally.

    Alternatively, buy from a trusted online store who sells a variety of high quality plants. Check out their website for correctly labeled Vallsineria plants of many interesting species and varieties. Shopping online takes the guess work since they will be properly label the plant when you order.  

    FAQS

    Are they easy to grow?

    Vallisneria is a very easy freshwater plant to grow which is why it is so popular with both beginners and more advanced growers. Vallisneria can actually be too easy to grow sometimes, and it will keep you quite busy to keep it from taking over.

    Does they need fertilizer?

    Vallisneria is a very easy freshwater plant to grow which is why it is so popular with both beginners and more advanced growers. Vallisneria can actually be too easy to grow sometimes, and it will keep you quite busy to keep it from taking over.

    Does they need CO2?

    Vallisneria spiralis, like the other Vallisneria species, does not need CO 2 to grow well but it will certainly be appreciated by these aquarium plants and improve their rate of growth.

    How do I grow them in my aquarium?

    To grow Vallisneria, simply set the plant’s roots in the substrate. A 3-inch layer of sand, gravel, or aquarium soil is recommended.

    Vallisneria is a fast-growing plant once it becomes established in the aquarium. The plants might go through a period of melt that could last a few days or weeks before bouncing back and starting to grow at their usual speed.

    Closing Thoughts

    Vallisneria is a really fun plant to grow because of its growth rate and ease of propagation. It’s a great-looking plant that greens up the environment really quickly, creating an underwater jungle that your fish and animals will thrive in.

    If you’re looking for a tall, fast-growing background plant, look no further! Got any questions? Leave a comment below and join the conversation!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • These 9 Great Soft Coral Types Looking Amazing!

    These 9 Great Soft Coral Types Looking Amazing!

    Soft corals were my entry point into reef keeping, and I still think they’re the best place for any hobbyist to start. They’re forgiving with water parameters, grow quickly when happy, and many of them have a flowing, dynamic movement in the tank that you just can’t get from any other type of coral. My 125-gallon reef has always had a mix of softies alongside the SPS, and they fill the tank beautifully.

    Coral reef tanks are a great way to add some life and color to your home. They can bring out the natural beauty of your fish and other marine inhabitants while also adding intrigue in your reef aquarium. Soft corals are an excellent addition to any tank because they offer superb coloration as well as providing nutrients for other organisms that live in your tank. These 9 soft coral types I recommend will look absolutely amazing in tanks!

    Introduction

    Soft corals are largely considered to be some of the easiest corals in the hobby. These corals usually lack a calcium carbonate skeleton and have very fleshy polyps. Some of the most popular soft corals to come across are zoanthids and mushroom corals, but there are many species and variations available.

    Though these corals might seem easy, they can bring unique challenges to the tank, whether it be a toadstool coral that hasn’t opened in weeks or pulsing xenia that are taking over the rest of the display. When done correctly, they can bring as much color and excitement to the tank as any other species of more advanced coral.

    How Many Species Are There?

    In order to know how many soft coral species there are, we first need to understand the taxonomy of corals.

    At the highest rank, corals belong to the Cnidaria phylum1, which also contains jellyfish. After that, they may be part of the Octocoralia subclass or Hexacorallia subclass in the Anthozoa class. Subclasses are dependent on the symmetry of the polyps; soft corals belong to Octocoralia while stony corals belong to Hexacorallia.

    From these subclasses, corals then get broken up into four main orders that are commonly kept by reef tank hobbyists:

    • Corallimorpharia (approx. 50 species). These are considered soft corals as they lack a skeleton entirely, like mushroom corals.
    • Alcyonacea (approx. 1500 species). These corals are known as the true soft corals even though they contain sclerites, which are small pieces of calcium carbonate skeleton present in the flesh of the coral. Examples of Alcyonaceae are leather corals as well as gorgonians.
    • Zoantharia (approx. 100 species). Zoanthids are also considered soft corals, though they commonly incorporate sand and other hard materials into their flesh for structure.
    • Scleractinia (approx. 1600 species). These corals are considered true reef-building corals as they create their own calcium carbonate skeleton; this order contains large polyp stony (LPS) corals and small polyp stony (SPS) corals. Some of the most common species of Scleractinia are Acropora spp. and Euphyllia spp..

    These approximations are always changing so there can never be a sure number. However, it can be assumed that there are about 1500 species of true soft coral. Consider that not even a fraction of these are available in the home aquarium hobby, though there is still an overwhelming selection to choose from.

    It should also be noted that even though SPS and LPS are categorized together in the Scleractinia order, they are considered to be very different in the reef tank hobby.

    The 9 Best Soft Coral Types (Species of Soft Corals)

    Here are the most common species of soft coral you’re likely to come across at your local aquarium store and their care requirements.

    We got a video above from our YouTube Channel that you can follow along. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week! We go into more details below in our blog (and have links where you can purchase them).

    1. Zoanthids

    Editor’s Choice
    Zoanthids

    Editor’s Choice!

    Zoas come in multiple colors and easy to care for. The perfect choice for nano tanks!

    Shop Designer Zoas Shop For WYSIWSG Zoas!
    Scientific NameZoanthus spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy-Moderate
    TemperamentNot aggressive
    PAR RequirementsModerate (50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsModerate
    PlacementMiddle, High
    OriginWorldwide in warm, shallow waters

    Zoanthids are loved by beginner and expert hobbyists alike. There are many varieties of zoanthid available, coming in all colors and patterns. This diversity can make some zoanthids go for thousands of dollars.

    Zoanthids are very easy to care for if they like your tank; these corals are notorious for closing up for weeks at a time for apparently no reason at all. They can quickly overgrow other corals and their potential palytoxin can deter some hobbyists.

    Otherwise, multiple types of zoanthid can make a beautiful zoa garden at low, medium, and high placements of the tank with moderate flow and lighting.

    2. Mushroom Corals

    Mushroom Corals

    Mushroom corals have exploded in variety over the last few years. Multiple colors available and lots of exotic varieties. Affordable and easy to care for!

    Shop WYSIWYG Buy On eBay
    Scientific NameCorallimorpharia Order (Actinodiscus/Discosoma spp., Rhodactis spp., and Ricordea spp.)
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentSemi-Aggressive
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsLow
    PlacementBottom, Middle
    OriginWidespread, mainly Australia, Tonga, the Caribbean, and Indonesia

    The Mushrooms coral at first glance may not be the most exciting coral to have, though hobbyists especially favor the Ricordea species, R. florida and R. yuma. Mushroom corals can be hairy, bumpy, or smooth and can come in purples, blues, greens, oranges, yellows, and reds.

    Mushroom corals are some of the easiest to frag, which can be good practice for beginner reefers. These corals also have a unique walking-propagation ability where they leave pieces of themselves behind to create new mushrooms. This can quickly lead to overgrowth, which can sometimes be difficult to control.

    3. Toadstool Leather

    Toadstool Leather Coral

    This leather coral offers a showpiece sized coral that is easy to care for. Requires no dosing and thrives in a variety of conditions

    Click For Best Price Buy Japanese Toadstool
    Scientific NameSarcophyton spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsModerate-High
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Toadstool corals are some of the largest corals available, with some species growing 2 feet across. Luckily, these corals are also very easy to frag in order to help control rapid growth. They are limited in colors, coming only in greens, browns, tans, and yellows, but can have varying tentacle lengths.

    These corals regularly shed a thin layer of their flesh about once every month. This may be due to stress, but it is usually to help keep algae and other debris off the coral. Because of this regular shedding, they do best in moderate to high water flow.

    4. Green Star Polyps

    Green Star Polyp
    Scientific NamePachyclavularia spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-High (<50-200+ PAR)
    Flow RequirementsModerate-High
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Green star polyps (GSP) are some of the fastest-growing soft corals, which is why some hobbyists avoid them entirely. It’s strongly recommended to keep them on a rock island on their own in order to prevent them from spreading everywhere; it is also very common to see them on the back of the reef tank to create a wall of shimmering green or on a glass-bottom to make a waving lawn.

    While green star polyps are one of the best choices for beginner hobbyists, many reefers regret introducing them into their tanks. Luckily, they are easy to frag as well.

    5. Pulsing Xenia

    Pulsing Xenia
    Scientific NameXenia spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsLow-Moderate
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Xenias are one of the most popular soft corals next to green star polyps. These pale pink and purple corals bring immense movement to the tank as they pulsate their polyps without the need for additional water flow.

    Unfortunately, some xenia don’t pulse or stop after some time for unknown reasons even though they might be completely healthy otherwise. As long as they are kept in low to moderate flow and low to moderate lighting, they will continue growing regardless of if they stop pulsing.

    6. Kenya Tree

    Kenya Tree Coral
    Scientific NameCapnella spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsLow-Moderate
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Kenya tree corals can fill up large spaces in the reef aquarium with their fluffy branches. Though they might be considered plain in their dull pink and brown colorations, these corals have a softness that not many other species offer.

    The problem with Kenya tree corals is that they spread rapidly. These corals are able to propagate by sending off their branches to other parts of the tank where they quickly establish themselves; these new frags are also hard to completely remove from the rockwork, which makes them very difficult to control.

    7. Colt

    Colt Coral
    Scientific NameKlyxum sp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsLow-Moderate
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Colt corals (picture source) are very similar to Kenya tree corals and difficult to tell apart even though they’re in two totally different genera. There are a few ways to tell these two species apart.

    First, colt corals have fuller and more transparent branches compared to the thick, opaque branches of Kenya trees. Second, colt corals can be described as more slimy than Kenya trees when handling, which resemble the feeling of a sturdier leather coral; remember, try avoiding touching your corals as much as possible to not stress them out.

    8. Devil’s Hand

    Devil's Hand Coral
    Scientific NameLobophytum spp.
    Difficulty LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsModerate-High
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)

    Devil’s hand corals are named after their unique fingerlike appearance. These corals are a type of leather coral, like toadstools, which means that they also shed due to stress or for cleaning; because of this, they need higher water flow to help remove the flaking flesh in the process.

    Unlike other leather corals, devil’s hand corals have very short tentacles which can make them look like they’re not fully expanded.

    9. Pipe Organ

    Pipe Organ Coral
    Scientific NameTubipora musica
    Difficulty LevelIntermediate
    TemperamentPeaceful
    PAR RequirementsLow-Moderate (<50-150 PAR)
    Flow RequirementsModerate-High
    PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    OriginThroughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands) and the Western Pacific Ocean

    Pipe organs aren’t very common to come across in the home aquarium even though they come in beautiful floral patterns. These corals are not your typical soft coral. In fact, these soft corals have an intricate red calcium carbonate skeleton, which earns them their musical name!

    This slow-growing skeleton needs to be kept clean from algae and detritus with proper water flow. They also need available calcium and stable alkalinity to build their skeleton, which can make them more challenging than the other species on this list.

    What Is The Difference Between These and Hard Corals?

    When talking about aquarium corals, you may come across words like LPS, SPS, hard/stony, or soft corals. In general, soft corals are considered the easiest with LPS best for intermediate hobbyists and SPS being saved for only the most dedicated reefers. But anatomically, these corals are very different.

    Hard Corals

    Hard corals, also known as SPS, belong to the Scleractinia order and are responsible for reef-building. They form large calcium carbonate skeletons that house symbiotic zooxanthellae in fleshy polyps. As members of the Hexocorallia subclass, their polyp symmetry is divisible by six.

    These skeletons are usually branched and form the picturesque reefs we are used to seeing. They house a plethora of life, including fish, invertebrates, bacteria, and other microorganisms.

    Softer Corals

    Soft corals–according to the aquarium hobby–belong to the Corallimorpharia, Alcyonacea, and Zoantharia orders. These corals do not form full calcium carbonate skeletons and create very fleshy polyps. Some species, like those from Alcyonacea, form smaller skeletal structures called sclerites. As members of the Octocoralia subclass, their polyp symmetry is divisible by eight.

    Interestingly, most soft coral species do not have fossil records as the animal has no concrete structure that can be preserved.

    Keeping Them In The Aquarium

    Soft corals are considered to be some of the easiest corals to keep in the aquarium and are often recommended as corals for beginners. Many species do not require intense reef lighting or flow and they can grow very quickly in less-than-ideal conditions.

    On the other hand, some hobbyists greatly struggle with keeping some of these ‘easy’ corals. In some cases, the tank might be considered too perfect for these undemanding species and the coral fails to thrive as a result.

    For example, it is strongly believed that zoanthids favor dirtier water with plenty of available nutrients. More advanced hobbyists keeping delicate SPS might have water that is too clean and void of nutrients to sustain a healthy zoanthid colony.

    So even though soft corals do not require much special attention, there is no guarantee that they will be easy in your aquarium setup.

    What Is The Easiest Type To Keep?

    With that being said, which soft corals are the easiest to keep? For the most part, all of them.

    There are many options for beginners and advanced reefers alike to choose from. Here are the most common recommendations:

    • Green star polyps
    • Mushroom corals
    • Leather corals
    • Pulsing Xenia
    • Zoanthids

    As mentioned before, though these corals are generally considered easy, they can be some of the most challenging corals you have in your aquarium depending on your setup.

    When Can You Add Them To The Aquarium?

    If you’re a beginner just starting to explore the saltwater world of the aquarium-keeping hobby, you’ll be eager to add your first coral to the tank. In order to succeed in this hobby though, you will need lots of patience.

    Though soft corals are very forgiving of poor water parameters, they are still much more difficult to keep than marine fish or freshwater plants. They need stability, available nutrients, good lighting, and good water flow. New setups rarely have any of these.

    In short, it is not recommended to add soft corals to a newly established tank during the first 3 months. These 3 months test many new hobbyists with algae outbreaks, diatoms, Aiptasia, and livestock compatibility. Corals are expensive and it isn’t fair to them or worth the risk of introducing them into unfavorable conditions.

    Instead, allow the tank to establish a good beneficial bacteria population. Control algae and find the perfect photoperiod for your setup. Figure out if your tank runs best with weekly or biweekly water changes (or none at all if you are brave enough๐Ÿ˜…) . Trace how your nutrient import and export changes daily. Then, you may add corals.

    Soft corals are good starter corals for many as they don’t require nutrients to be dosed. As long as a reliable marine salt mix is being used and nutrients are being added into the tank via fish food, waste, and other detritus, your soft corals should be able to sustain themselves.

    For mature tanks, soft corals can be added at any time. More importantly, it is necessary to find the right placement for them in order to keep them away from other corals. Though most soft corals are not capable of stinging, they can easily overgrow and shade out other species.

    Closing Thoughts

    Soft corals are some of the easiest species to keep and come in all colors, shapes, and sizes. There are some differences between the scientific classification for soft corals, LPS, and SPS that differ from aquarium standards, but all soft coral species generally require the same care.

    With so many options to choose from, a soft coral and macroalgae setup might just be the next setup you have in mind for your own saltwater aquarium. Have any questions for me? Leave them in the comment section and let’s start a discussion. Happy Reefing!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Anacharis Care – A Complete Guide

    Anacharis Care – A Complete Guide

    Anacharis is one of the plants I recommend to beginners more than almost anything else, and I keep it in my own tanks as well. It grows fast, helps control nitrates, provides cover for fry and shy fish, and asks for very little in return. I’ve grown it floating and planted, and it thrives both ways โ€” it’s genuinely one of the most versatile aquarium plants available.

    Anacharis (Egeria densa)is a fast-growing plant that grows easily in medium to large home aquariums as well as outdoor ponds. These lush and tall aquatic plants do well in a range of water parameters, light strengths, and temperatures, making them an ideal choice for beginners who are new to the hobby.

    Read this article to learn everything you need to know about, growing, propagating, and caring for the Anacharis plant in your freshwater aquarium.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameEgeria densa, Elodea densa
    Common NamesAnacharis, Elodea, Giant Elodea, Brazilian Elodea, Brazilian Water Weed, Large-flowered Waterweed, Pondweed
    FamilyHydrocharitaceae
    OriginSouth America, Brazil, Uraguay, Argentina, Introduced widely
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingModerate-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    Tank PlacementBackground
    Flow RateLow
    Temperature Range50 โ€“ 77ยฐF
    HeightTo over 6 feet
    pH Range7.0 โ€“ 8.0
    ProprogationCuttings
    Growth RateFast
    Feed TypeColumn Feeder
    Co2 RequirementNo

    Origins And Habitat

    The Anacharis plant, Egeria densa, is a South American species that naturally grows wild in Brazil, Uraguay, and Argentina1. It has been spread to many countries around the world, including the United States, Mexico, Chile, parts of East Africa, Europe, Japan, Australia, and New Zealand.

    Egeria densa grows in slow-moving or still water in lakes, ponds, and rivers. It is a fully aquatic plant that can be found in pretty deep water, especially if it has good clarity.

    What Do They Look Like?

    What Does Anacharis Look Like

    Anacharis is a tall aquatic stem plant that can reach over 6 feet tall in nature. It can grow both from the substrate or as a floating plant.

    The Anacharis plant consists of long, upright sturdy green stems, with narrow leaves arranged in whorls. Both the stems and leaves of this aquarium plant have green coloration.

    Anacharis plants grown in ideal conditions and parameters will be dark green, while those that aren’t quite as happy tend to be lighter, with bright green leaves.

    Each leaf measures about an inch in length and about 1/8th of an inch across. The leaf blades are very finely toothed along their edges. Anacharis stems are pretty fragile and typically about 1/8th of an inch in diameter.

    The Anacharis plant typically has two different types of roots. Both kinds of roots have a white coloration.

    Anacharis plants have roots that grow from the bottoms of the stem and into the substrate, as well as longer roots that grow into the water from along the stem. The longer roots that grow from the stem are used for absorbing nutrients from the water column.

    Anacharis Care Guide

    The Anacharis plant gets pretty tall and is best suited as a background plant in the aquarium. Another effective way to position taller plants is to start them on one end of the aquascape, using shorter and shorter plants towards the middle.

    Alternatively, you can simply float this plant in the aquarium. This is a great option if you aren’t too worried about aquascaping and rather wish to provide hiding spaces in a breeding tank.

    Whatever your use, bear in mind that Anacharis has a very fast growth rate, and can grow very tall. This makes it a good plant for a larger size tank.

    Anacharis grows best in moderate to strong light. Aim for a PAR rate of about 100-150 for the best growth rate.

    Plants grown under this light will have a dark green color and a shorter growth form, with more branches from the stem. In low light, these plants tend to grow tall and sparse with light green leaves that are widely spaced along the stem.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Anacharis has some great benefits for the fish in your aquarium. This plant increases the available oxygen content of the environment when growing well in good tank conditions. It also provides dense shelter for fish at all levels of the aquarium.

    Small fry and inverts like shrimps can find great hiding places within the dense stems and leaves of Anacharis to stay safe from predators.

    Good Tank Mates

    Anacharis is an ideal tank mate for most cool and tropical freshwater fish. Ideally, fish species that enjoy the same water parameters and have the same tank requirements should be selected.

    Livestock that prefer harder, slightly alkaline water below about 77ยฐF should be kept with this plant. A couple of great options include:

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Plant-eating fish will feed on the Anacharis plant so it is best to avoid fish like goldfish and cichlids. If, however, you don’t mind the plants taking some damage and want to provide your fish with another natural food source, this fast-growing plant is a viable option.

    It can be a bit of a balancing act to grow enough of this plant depending on heavily stocked your aquarium is though.

    Feeding And Fertilization

    Anacharis is primarily a column feeder, although they do also extract some nutrients from the substrate. This makes them great plants for fish tanks because they act as water purifiers by helping to soak up excess nutrients in the aquarium from fish waste.

    In a well-stocked aquarium, Anacharis will get most or all of the nutrients it needs in this way, but in a plant-only aquarium, or if growing this plant under strong light and with added CO2, fertilizing with a proper aquarium fertilizer is recommended. If you are looking for a great all-in-one fertilizer, check out APT Complete.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed Them

    If you are growing Anacharis under strong lighting and with added CO2, a weekly dose (after your regular water change) of a balanced liquid fertilizer will be more than sufficient for this plant. Follow the instructions on the specific product you are dosing for best results.

    CO2 Injection

    Many aquarists are able to grow Anacharis without CO2 injection in the home aquarium, so if you have a low-tech setup, this is still a plant you can grow.

    Anacharis will definitely appreciate injected CO2 though and will have a faster growth rate, with darker green leaves and denser stem growth under such conditions. When considering whether to start using CO2 in your planted aquarium, remember this rule:

    Aquatic plants have 3 important requirements for healthy growth. These are:

    • Carbon Dioxide
    • Light
    • Nutrients

    It is important to provide all three in balance. This means that if you provide a lot of light for example, without providing nutrients and CO2, your plants will not be able to use that light for growth, and the imbalance will probably result in excessive algae growth or some other issues. If you are looking for a quality CO2 system, CO2 Art is the best in the business.

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    How Much CO2 Do You Need?

    Any increase in available CO2 will benefit your Anacharis plant in a well-balanced system. CO2 in high concentrations can be deadly to the fish and other livestock in your aquarium, however, so keep your levels below 30 ppm.

    Since plants can only use carbon dioxide during the day, set your CO2 system on a timer that shuts off at the same time as your lights.

    Having your CO2 injection system start up about 2 hours before the lights come on will give the CO2 time to build up to optimal levels before the lights switch on again.  

    Care and Instructions

    Anacharis is an easy aquarium plant to care for. Trimming and pruning the Anacharis plant might keep you pretty busy if you are growing it in a small tank, however. If you want a quick video, here is a good one from The PlantGuy. I’ll go into more detail below:

    Let’s take a closer look at some of the keys to Anacharis care:

    Planted Aquarium Parameters

    The Anacharis plant is best suited for medium to large aquariums because it will quickly outgrow nano tanks. A 15-gallon tank is probably about the minimum size if you want to plant Anacharis.

    These plants grow best in cooler water tanks with fairly hard water, although they can be grown in tropical aquariums. A temperature of between 50 and 77ยฐF is recommended for growing this plant in the home aquarium, although they are able to overwinter in lower temperatures in outdoor ponds.

    Water Quality

    Maintaining good water quality and healthy water conditions is the most important key to success in keeping all aquarium plants and animals.

    A good filter is vital for healthy water conditions but you will also need to roll up your sleeves and perform partial water changes on a regular basis.

    Provided your aquarium is not overstocked, a weekly water change of about 25% is usually a good routine to have. The frequency and volume of your changes are going to vary though, depending on your tank size, filter capacity, and livestock.  

    Filtration

    Providing good filtration is key to maintaining safe and healthy aquarium water and providing good care to your plants and animals. Good Anacharis care doesn’t rely on any specific type of filter though.

    One important consideration with a fast-growing and somewhat fragile species like Anacharis is that it can clog filters. A good way to prevent this is to use a filter with a pre-filter sponge over its intake that keeps larger particles from being sucked in.

    If you do find your filter media becoming clogged with stems and leaves, be sure to use your tank water to rinse out the sponges. Using regular tap water can kill off the beneficial bacteria in the sponge, resulting in a dangerous water condition.

    Flow

    The Anacharis plant is more adapted to stillwater and gently flowing river systems without strong currents. It is best to grow these plants in aquariums with lower flow rates or position the plant in an area of the tank without strong flow. Some of the best ways to protect these plants are:

    • Grow them in a position far from your filters outflow
    • Direct your filters outflow upwards towards the water surface
    • Use a piece of driftwood or another hardscape feature in front of the outflow of the filter to break up the current and shelter the plant
    • Use a filter that is an appropriate strength for the volume of your aquarium 

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Apart from performing regular water changes in your aquarium, take care to keep the surface of the substrate clean by removing uneaten food, fish waste, and other substances with your gravel vacuum.

    You will also need to clean the glass of your aquarium from time to time as algae develop. Use your algae scraper for this task just before a water change and the loosened algae can then be siphoned out of the tank.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Testing your water conditions is the best way to know about what’s going on in your aquarium to a finer level. Even though the water in your tank may look crystal clear, the levels of ammonia and nitrites should be monitored regularly, especially if you keep fish.

    Use your liquid test kit to monitor:

    Another important water parameter to keep an eye on is water temperature. Use a thermometer to confirm that your heater is maintaining your aquarium at the right temperature.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    Anacharis is a pretty easy-going plant that doesn’t require a whole lot of extra care and preparation before being added to the tank. To highlight this point, this plant can be grown in a bare tank by simply floating it in the aquarium.

    If you prefer to grow this plant rooted, you will first need to lay down a layer of a substrate of your choice. If Anacharis is the only plant you’re going to grow in the tank, aquarium soil will not be needed and you can use sand or gravel instead.

    Whichever type of substrate you choose to use, a layer of about 2 inches deep will be ideal for the growth of healthy roots.

    How To Propagate

    Anacharis is one of the easiest aquarium plants for beginners to propagate in the home aquarium. Simply take stem cuttings from a healthy, mature specimen and plant them in the substrate.

    4 inch long cuttings are a good size for propagating new plants. Always take care to plant Anacharis cuttings right side up though.

    A method that can be very effective is to float the cuttings in the aquarium until they have developed a root system. Then anchor them at the bottom with a weight, and without pushing them into the substrate.

    Although this method does take a little more patience, it causes the Anacharis plant to develop roots and send them into the substrate by itself. The benefit of this is that the plants don’t melt in the substrate while rooting.

    Health And Disease

    Anacharis plants are not usually prone to health issues, but there are a few things to look out for. Let’s take a closer look at health issues in Anacharis:

    Signs Of Health

    A healthy looking plant has a dark green coloration with plenty of leaves whorled around each stem.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Anacharis that has been grown in unfavorable conditions will usually be tall and thin, with weak stems and few leaves growing widely spaced along the stems.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Melt is a common problem with many new aquarium plants. In the case of Anacharis, melting plants become very soft and are easily sucked up by your filter.

    It is best to remove melting Anacharis stems before it gets to this stage. Fortunately, these plants typically bounce back quickly.

    Although the Anacharis plant is great for suppressing blue-green algae in the tank water, hair algae on the stems and leaves can become a problem in aquariums that have lighting and nutrient levels that are out of balance.

    The best way to stop the growth of hair algae is to reduce the lighting period. Lowering the strength of the lighting, and using CO2 can also be helpful.

    Plant Pests

    Pests like snails (such as apple snails) and worms can often find their way into your aquarium by hiding in the roots, stems, and leaves of new plants. To reduce the risk of introducing these pests, rinse your plants off carefully before adding them to your tank.

    A 1 minute or less dip in a very mild bleach solution of 1 part bleach to 20 parts water can also help by killing off these organisms. If you do dip the plants in bleach, just be sure to rinse them off carefully with dechlorinated water before adding them to your tank.

    Where To Buy

    Anacharis plants are common and a popular aquarium plant. They are usually very affordable. This plant is usually sold in bundles tied together with rubber bands.

    You can usually find Anacharis for sale at your local fish stores or pet store, or check out an online retailer. Online can have an advantage as in general Anacharis specimen selection can be risky at local stores. This is because they are so popular and often giving similar treatment that feeder goldfish get. You will usually get a better specimen online and have less of a risk for pests online.

    FAQS

    Do they need CO2?

    Anacharis can be grown in low-tech aquariums without CO2. If you do have a CO2 injection system, don’t worry, you can still grow Egeria densa.

    Is this the same as hornwort?

    Although the two plants look pretty similar to one another, Anacharis (Egeria densa) is a different species to Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum). The two plants do have very similar care requirements though.

    Do goldfish eat them?

    Goldfish love Anacharis and will happily munch on this plant. This is great for the fish but not so great for your carefully planned aquascape, so think carefully before stocking the two together.

    How fast do they grow?

    Anacharis grows fast. In the right conditions, these plants grow like a weed, quite easily growing over a foot a month. Of course, plants grown in poor conditions or outside of their preferred parameters might not grow at all.

    Is Anacharis good for ponds?

    Anacharis is a great plant for ponds. Ponds are a much less controlled environment than aquariums, however, so be careful to avoid letting this plant get into waterways outside of its natural range where they can become invasive.

    Closing Thoughts

    Anacharis is a great plant for beginners looking for a tall, fast-growing species that will produce plenty of beautiful green stems in their aquarium. Just remember that these plants do need at least moderate lighting and do not enjoy a very high water temperature to grow at their best.

    Have you had experience with Anacharis? If so, leave a comment below, share, and join the conversation. Thanks for reading and see you next time!

  • Convict Cichlid Care – A Complete Guide

    Convict Cichlid Care – A Complete Guide

    Convict cichlids are one of the most personality-packed fish I’ve kept in 25 years in the hobby. They’re tough, opinionated, and genuinely entertaining to watch โ€” especially when a pair forms and starts breeding. I’ve seen them successfully defend a corner of a 55-gallon tank from fish twice their size, which tells you everything about their temperament. If you want a cichlid that’s easy to keep but never boring, this is a great choice.

    Whether you are brand-new to fish keeping, or a seasoned pro, the convict cichlid is a great fish to have in your tank. 

    Although the convict isnโ€™t the only member of the Cichlidae family, itโ€™s certainly a favorite amongst aquarium enthusiasts. 

    With its stand-out personality and attractive appearance, this aquatic creature has earned its favored status. If you choose to get a convict cichlid, it will never fail to entertain you! 

    Plus, itโ€™s a hardy species that is very easy to care for.  And to top it all off, this fish is a prolific breeder.

    If you are interested in learning more about convict cichlid care, you need to read this article.  It will teach you how to provide the best care possible for this amazing fish. 

    Letโ€™s dive right in!

    Brief Overview

    Scientific NameAmatitlania nigrofasciata
    Common NamesConvict Cichlid, Zebra Cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginSouth America
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityVery Active
    Lifespan8 to 10 Years
    TemperamentAggressive
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size30 gallons
    Temperature Range74ยฐF โ€“ 84ยฐF
    Water Hardness9 – 20 dkH
    pH Range6.5 to 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCan live in community tanks with certain tank mates that can stand up to the convict cichlidโ€™s aggressive nature.
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With caution

    Origin and Habitat

    As a freshwater fish, the convict cichlid resides in Central American rivers and streams.  This species is found in Honduras, Guatemala, and El Salvador1

    The convict cichlidโ€™s natural habitat consists of gently flowing water and sandy substrate.  Its rivers and streams contain rocks and driftwood, giving these fish discreet places to hide.    

    Appearance and Size

    Want to know why this fish is called convict?  Just take a look at its black stripes.  This pattern looks like a prison uniform.

    The exact number of stripes, or bars, depends on the particular fish, but most have about eight or nine.   

    Although the convict cichlid is usually white with black bars, other colors include plain white, pink, and gold.  Some of these relatively rare varieties lack the stripes that these fish are known for.      

    For most fish species, the male is more colorful.  But thatโ€™s not the case for convict cichlids.  Instead, itโ€™s the female convict cichlid that has more color. 

    When the female matures, an orange mark appears on her side.  When the male Convict Cichlid matures, a nuchal hump can be seen on his head.    

    The convict cichlid is on the smaller side, with an average length of 4-5 inches.  However, some males can grow up to 6 inches long. 

    Average Cost

    Itโ€™s not hard to find a convict cichlid for sale.  This fish is very popular and easy to breed, motivating fish stores, online stores, and breeders to sell the convict cichlid.

    And thatโ€™s good news for you because it keeps the price pretty affordable.  You will probably only pay about $5-$12 per fish if you find the locally.      

    Ease of Care

    The convict cichlid is super easy to take care of, making it a beginner-friendly fish.  Maintaining the proper water conditions, creating the right environment, and feeding your convict cichlid are simple, straightforward tasks.     

    In addition, this species is easy to breed.  Itโ€™s just a matter of putting a male and female convict cichlid together, giving them the right environment, and providing plenty of space.  If you do that, you will likely have fry in no time! 

    Feeding Requirements

    Generally speaking, a convict cichlidโ€™s diet should mostly consist of pellets.  But you might also want to include foods that wild convict cichlids consume.

    As omnivores, this fish eats insects, mosquito larvae, and plants.  Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s a good idea to supplement your aquarium convict cichlidโ€™s diet with live foods and blanched vegetables. Roughage is key to avoiding the dreaded Malawi Bloat that types many cichlids.

    Some examples include:

    • Blood Worms
    • Black Worms
    • Daphnia
    • Brine Shrimp
    • Tubifex Worms
    • Lettuce 
    • Broccoli
    • Carrots

    Although fresh foods are always best, frozen worms and shrimp are also fine.  And donโ€™t be afraid to throw some insects and mosquito larvae into your convict cichlidโ€™s diet.  If you can manage to get these foods, your fish will love them! 

    As far as pellets go, look for a cichlid-specific option.  And whatever you do, donโ€™t settle for anything less than high-quality food. 

    Cheap pellets might save you money, but they will only end up hurting your fishy friends in the long run. Thatโ€™s because poor quality food leads to poor health. An example of a high quality Cichlid food would be Ron’s Cichlid Food.

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    If you prioritize high-quality food, your cichlid fish will thrive.  Plus, they will look amazing in your tank. You canโ€™t ask for more than that!

    Besides choosing the right food, you must also decide when to feed your fish.  Itโ€™s easier to feed once per day, but itโ€™s probably better to feed several smaller meals throughout the day.  About 2-3 meals will do.

    These smaller portion sizes will prevent tank water pollution, which helps to keep water conditions just right.  And that will further contribute to the health and appearance of your convict cichlid. 

    Temperament

    Convict Cichlid Swimming

    The convict cichlid is an aggressive fish, always ready to defend their territory.  Their combative nature increases during times of breeding as they protect their spawning areas. 

    All that being said, they are still a delight for fish owners.  As long as you can keep their aggression at bay, their personality will keep you entertained.    

    Fortunately, you can prevent fish fights from occurring.  All you have to do is make sure each convict cichlid has enough space. 

    And if you will be keeping your fish in a community tank, just be sure to place them with compatible tank mates.  We will talk more about that later in this article.

    You should also give your fish plenty of hiding places, such as rocks, plants, and driftwood.  These hideaways provide some much-needed privacy, which helps to keep the peace. 

    When there is peace in your tank, you can enjoy observing your convict cichlidโ€™s activities.  These activities may include digging, rearranging plants, and checking out the rest of the tank.      

    All that activity is what makes them so fun to watch!

    Tank Requirements

    If you want your fish to thrive, you need to create an environment that matches their natural habitat as closely as possible. 

    In this section, we are going to talk about how you can do that in your convict cichlidโ€™s aquarium.

    Make Sure the Tank is Large Enough   

    Remember, the convict cichlid needs lots of space.  Forcing this aggressive species to share a small tank with other fish is just asking for trouble!

    But how big should the tank be?

    Here are some general guidelines:

    • Some experts recommend 30 gallons per convict cichlid
    • Others say 30-50 gallons is large enough for a pair of convicts
    • If you have a breeding pair, you will need at least a 50-gallon tank.

    If you want to play it safe, it might be a good idea to choose a tank size thatโ€™s larger than what you think is necessary.  This is probably better than trying to get by with the bare minimum.      

    Create the Right Conditions

    Convict Cichlid

    The Convict Cichlid is a very hardy fish, meaning they can survive conditions that donโ€™t perfectly match their natural habitat.  But surviving isnโ€™t thriving.  To make sure your fish are as healthy and attractive as possible, you need to get the tankโ€™s conditions just right. 

    That involves maintaining the proper pH and temperature range.  This species requires these conditions:

    • PH: 6.5-8
    • Water Temperature: 74 -84 degrees

    Keeping the water on the warmer side is important because this fish comes from South American rivers and streams.  So, if your tankโ€™s water doesnโ€™t stay within the optimal range, you might want to look into getting an aquarium heater

    Choose the Right Substrate   

    Convict cichlid fish have a tendency to dig, making it vital to choose the right substrate.  Something soft, like sand, will allow your fishy friends to dig away without getting scratched. 

    When choosing between light and dark substrate, it all comes down to personal preference and your budget.  In most cases, lighter substrates will be cheaper than darker options.  However, your beautiful fish will stand out even more against a dark substrate.  

    Provide Hiding Places

    Logs, driftwood, rocks, and plants make great hiding spots for fish.  Adding these elements to your tank gives your cichlid fish plenty of privacy, which helps prevent aggressive behaviors. 

    Look for tough plants that wonโ€™t be easily disturbed by digging.  By the way, we should probably mention that your convict cichlid will likely rearrange the plants. Plants that do not need to be planted in soil make the most sense. In our experience, these plants work best with Convicts:

    These fish definitely have their own ideas about things!  But thatโ€™s partly why they are so amusing. 

    Generate a Gentle Flow

    Wild convict cichlids live in gently flowing water.  You can mimic this by installing a powerhead that generates a gentle flow.      

    Choose a Good Filter System

    What happens when your fish start digging?  If you guessed a mess, you are right! 

    Thatโ€™s why you must choose a good filter system that can keep up with that mess.  This becomes especially important if you plan on breeding your fish, as the new fry will increase the tankโ€™s bio-load.

    Your best bet is a filter that filters at least twice your tankโ€™s volume per hour.  Some convict keepers use filters that filter 10-15 times the tank volume per hour. A filter with a large amount of media capacity is best like a canister filter.

    Convict cichlid breeders need to take extra measures to keep the fry from being sucked into the filter. A quick fix is to buy and install a filter sponge. 

    How To Breed

    When it comes to breeding convict cichlids it can be summed with a simple statement – convict cichlids are prolific, making this fish incredibly easy to breed.  There are just a few breeding tips to keep in mind. You can also check out this video by Blake’s Aquatics if you prefer a video explanation.

    For starters, the water should be around 84 degrees.  So, keep an eye on the temperature to make sure itโ€™s conducive to breeding. 

    Secondly, the female convict cichlid naturally gravitate towards rocky overhangs to lay their eggs.  Turning a clay pot upside down or stacking flat rocks provides a similar laying space for your female fish.  

    Thirdly (and this is very important to remember!) convict cichlids are extremely protective of their eggs.  If your convict cichlids are forced to breed in a community tank, they will view the other fish as threats and attack them.     

    Thatโ€™s why your breeding pair should be kept in a separate tank from all other fish, convicts or otherwise.

    Also, the breeding tank should be large enough to house fry.  At a minimum, this requires a 50-gallon tank. 

    Breeding and Raising Fry

    Convict cichlids are ready to breed when they are about 4-7 months old.  After the female convict cichlid lays the eggs, the male fertilizes them.  Once the eggs have been laid, the breeding pair is on their guard, ready to defend their eggs from any threats. 

    The eggs will hatch in 3-5 days, resulting in about 30 new fry.  After the eggs hatch, the parents care for the fry.  For the first 5 days, the fry remain in the yolk sac. After that, they start swimming around. 

    Once the fry are about a week old, itโ€™s time to start feeding them.  Some food options include baby brine shrimp, fry flakes, and infusoria. 

    Fry should be fed about 3 times per day. It doesnโ€™t take long for the male and female to be ready to breed again.  They will reenter the breeding mode about 10-14 days after the fry are born. 

    At this time, the breeding pair may become aggressive towards the fry.  To keep them safe, move the fry to a nursery tank, about 5-10 gallons large.   

    Eventually, the fry will outgrow that tank.  The next step is to place them in a rearing tank, about 20-30 gallons large.

    Important Note

    Before moving on, we want to point out that convict cichlids have a great reputation for being excellent parents. The male and female will do whatever it takes to protect the fry while providing food and shelter. 

    That being said, the father can become a threat when the fry start swimming.  If any signs of aggression appear, the male Convict Cichlid should be removed from the tank.      

    FAQS

    How many can live together in one tank?

    That depends on how large the tank is.ย  Some experts recommend keeping one convict cichlid per 30 gallons, while others say itโ€™s okay to keep a pair in a 30-gallon tank.ย ย 

    Although a convict cichlid can live by itself, sharing the tank (as long as itโ€™s big enough) with another convict can prevent stress. 

    Just keep in mind, as the number of fish increase so does the risk of fights.  Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s probably wise for beginners to limit their convict cichlids to one or two.

    Also, itโ€™s usually not a good idea to put two male convict cichlids together as this will likely result in displays of aggression.        

    And for those with more than two convict cichlids, itโ€™s best to maintain a ratio of 3 females to one male. 

    Can they live with other fish?

    Due to the convict cichlidโ€™s aggressive and territorial nature, putting this fish in a community tank can be somewhat risky.ย  For that reason, beginners should probably keep their convict cichlids in a separate tank, away from other types of fish.ย  ย ย 

    But for those with more experience, their convict cichlids can live in community tanks.  However, you canโ€™t choose just any tank mates.  You have to carefully select certain fish that are most compatible with convict cichlids. 

    That would not include fish that are smaller or less assertive than your cichlid fish.  Instead, you should pick tank mates that are larger and able to hold their own.  

    Some good tank mates include:

    If your convict cichlid will live with tank mates, be sure to buy a large tank thatโ€™s at least 50 gallons.  Depending on how many fish you have, you might need a tank thatโ€™s even bigger than that.   

    But no matter how experienced you are, how big the tank is, or what other types of fish you have, never ever keep a breeding pair in a community tank.  It just wonโ€™t end well!

    Thatโ€™s because this aggressive species becomes even more combative during breeding time. 

    How long does it take for them to grow to full size?

    That depends on the fish, but most convict cichlids take about 2-3 years to reach full size.ย 

    How many fry do they have?

    The average number of fry is about 30.ย 

    How long do they live in captivity?

    With the proper care, aquarium convict cichlids can live for 8-10 years.ย  Keep in mind, this is just an average.ย  Your own fishy friends might live longer or shorter.

    In Conclusion

    By this point, you are probably convinced that the convict cichlid is a great fish to keep, especially if you are brand new to this hobby.  They are super easy to care for, a blast to watch, and a beauty to behold. And when you provide great care, you will be able to enjoy your fish for a long time. 

    Do you have any experience with Convict Cichlids? If so, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Thanks for reading! 


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 9 Best LED Lights for Planted Tanks โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    9 Best LED Lights for Planted Tanks โ€“ Tested and Reviewed

    Lighting is the engine of a planted tank โ€” get it right and your plants flourish; get it wrong and you either get algae explosions or plants that barely survive. I’ve personally tested many LED lights for planted tanks over the years, from budget options to high-end fixtures like the Twinstar and Chihiros series, and there’s a massive range in quality and plant-growing capability. This guide covers my top picks at different price points and what I’ve actually found in real planted tank use.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their lighting woes (and believe me, lighting is a complex topic and it’s easy to pick the wrong one). Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best LED lights for planted tanks on the market (or not LED other others interested).

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice!
    Twinstar E-Series
    • High End Lighting
    • Diffusor
    • Durable
    Best Value
    Serene Pro RBG
    • Great Brand
    • Great Value
    • Works For Many Setups
    Budget Option
    Chihiros RGB
    • Great Price
    • Pro Grade

    Usually, this would be a tough choice but I feel there are three easy picks here. I believe that the Serene Pro LED is the overall best value on this list, but I know everyone can’t afford it. For the best budget, I feel that the Chihiros is a great balance between price and performance. The Twinstar LEDs are excellent as well, but they are best for rimless, high-end setups which I know everyone isn’t going to do.

    Our Lighting List

    Let’s start to look at the top LED Lights for tanks with plants that you can buy. 

    This is not your typical list that you may have seen from other sites as I am including some high-end fixtures as well as budget-friendly items. These have been carefully selected with the three core elements in mind – Spectrum, Intensity, and Spread.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice!
    Twinstar E-Series LED Light
    Twinstar E-Series LED Light

    Pro Grade

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Glass Aqua
    Best Value
    Serene Pro RBG LED
    Serene Pro RBG LED

    Pro Grade

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option
    Chihiros RGB Aquarium LED Light
    Chihiros RGB Aquarium LED Light

    Pro Grade

    Buy On Amazon
    Fluval Freshwater 3.0 LED Light Fluval Freshwater 3.0 LED Light

    All Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Finnex Planted LED Finnex Planted LED

    All Tanks

    Buy On Amazon
    Hydrofarm T5 Fixture Hydrofarm T5 Fixture

    All Tanks

    Buy On Amazon
    Kessil Tuna Sun Lights Kessil Tuna Sun Lights

    All Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    NICREW SkyLED NICREW SkyLED

    Low Light Planted Tanks

    Buy On Amazon
    UNS Titan UNS Titan

    Professional Aquascapes

    Click For Best Price

    The Top Nine

    Let’s get into the reviews and see who’s the best!

    1. Twinstar LEDs โ€“ Pro Level LEDs for Enthusiasts 

    Editor’s Choice
    Twinstar LED

    The Best LED for Planted Tanks

    Twinstar nails the spectrum, has the proper spread and comes with a sleek design. Perfect for aquascapers

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua

    The Twinstar Series lights are the premier light on this list. The main selling point with this light is the spectrum. The spectrum is fully tuned for the best colors and plant grow performance. It is a full light spectrum with wavelengths of 400nm to 700nm that is required for plant growth.You also get a very sleek design with acrylic brackets that make the unit easy to mount and look pleasing to the eye when installed in your aquarium. The mounts are designed for rimless tanks, so keep that in mind if you have a rimmed aquarium.

    Twinstar is also one of the few makers on this list that openly publish their PAR ratings, which takes out the guesswork with the unit. Below is are the PAR ratings for the unit.

    If you are looking for a high end light for your high-end planted tank setup or rimless tank, this is a great light to consider.  It is the go-to light for pro aquascapers. See the full review for more details.

    Pros

    • Great spectrum setup for plants in tanks
    • Sleek design
    • Ideal for Rimless tanks

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Not as many controllable features as there should be

    2. Current USA Serene Pro LED โ€“ A Great Value

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

     

    The Current USA Serene was at the time of their introduction an unusual entry into the fishkeeping hobby. It was a a typical LED light, but it featured a sound board to input soothing sounds into your living room or office. This was great in concept, but there wasn’t an ethusianst light at the time.

    In comes in the Serene Pro LED light, and let me tell this light has blown me away. It has the PAR values on equal to the Twinstar LED (as soon below and it has that desired RGB spectrum that all big aquascapes want for their setups. It also has a nice white color, which works great with many planted tank setups vs. the black body you usually see with LEDs.

    Serene Pro PAR Values

    As a user of Current products (I’ve used the Loop IC Pros for my own LPS tank), I’m a believer in Current USA products. The price sells it for me. I used to put the Fluval 3.0 as the best value in this post and promoted for over a year. This Serene light blows it away. It’s far cheaper, has better PAR output and the RBG spectrum is ideal for planted tanks.

    What’s the main drawback with this light? Well, it lacks a mobile app, which is what the Fluval has over it. Is that worth the price difference though? That’s really up to you, but for me I rather use that extra money for some more plants or sweet hardscapes like driftwood and rocks.

    Pros

    • Affordable pro grade light
    • Great spectrum
    • Slim Profile

    Cons

    • No mobile app
    • 1 year warranty

    3. Chihiros RGB- Pro Grade at a Budget Price!

    Budget Option
    Chihiros LED

    Budget Option

    Great price with the ideal spectrum. A very popular planted tank brand in Asia

    Buy On Amazon

    I’m starting off the list with a pro grade aquarium led light – the Chihiros RGB Aquarium LED. This is a great light for a fully planted tank and offers a quality spectrum and a great price for what you get. Many people in the US may not know about this light, but this is a very popular like among planted enthusiast in Asia. 

    It offers a very slim profile that can mount on top of your aquarium, giving you a very clean finish and the light array spreads the entire length of the fixture, which is something I mentioned earlier as a key to a quality LED setup. 

    It is a simple to use fixture. It has no controller and just comes with a manual dimmer, which allows for adjustments from 100% – 30%. Because it doesn’t have a controller, it will require a time to get full on and off automatic functionality.

    Overall, it’s a great light with no frills. This light is all about the output and performance so if you want a pro grade light without the price tag, this is a great consideration.

    Pros

    • Affordable for a pro grade light
    • Great spectrum
    • Slim Profile

    Cons

    • No controller
    • Dimmer only adjusts in percentages of 10% down to 30%

    4. Fluval Plant Spectrum 3.0 – Excellent Light With All The Bells and Whistles

    3 Year Warranty
    Fluval Plant 3.0 LED

    Fluval delivers a great LED with a number of modern features like an mobile app. Backed by a industry leading 3 year warranty

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Fluval Plant 3.0 is a massive improvement to the old Freshwater 2.0 models. This is one of the more technologically advanced planted light-emitting diode lights on the list. It has a programmable, gradual 24-hour light cycle settings of sunrise, midday, sunset, and night. You have full control of your light spectrum with 6 unique waves that you can modify to dial in the color and spectrum you desire with this light. Fluval also does the homework for you with several pre-set such as Lake Malawi, Tropical, and Planted. The LEDs themselves are built of next-gen High Thermal Eddiciency (H.T.E.) LEDs that improve output and performance. The light itself is protected by IP67 waterproof related aluminum casing.

    The main selling point is the control on this unit. In the video above, you can see how easy it is to control this light to add your timer, change spectrum, and use presets all on your mobile device. All of this is backed by Fluvalโ€™s ironclad 3 year warranty, easily the best warranty on this list.

    So whatโ€™s the catch here? Well, mostly the price. Itโ€™s one of the more expensive lights on this list, but it is also one of the most comprehensive lights on here. You canโ€™t go wrong with this light and that warranty along with the Fluval name is amazing!

    Pros

    • WiFi and mobile app
    • 3 year warranty
    • Beginner friendly

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Moderate PAR

    5. Finnex FugeRay Planted+ – Name Brand Light With Great Performance

    Finnex Planted LED

    A reasonably priced planted tank fixture with great spread

    Buy On Amazon

    The Finnex FugeRay Planted+ light is a staple in the planted tank and refugium niche. In saltwater tanks, this is sometimes used for sump refugiums as a reasonably price fuge light and for tanks it makes a balanced light for all sorts of tanks.

    The main thing that puts this light on the list is their more evenly spaced LED alignment which gives you a more reliable spread on the tank. There are also moonlights here for light and ramp down lighting and a true 600nm red LEDs. The lenses on this light is the ideal 120 degree that I refer for LED light spread. Overall, it’s a solid package for a reasonable price. 

    The main downfall with this light is that it is designed for dual purpose. It is made for both saltwater fuges and freshwater tanks with plants. A 100% dedicated freshwater planted tank would have offered more reds and blue. The light has more whites than I would like.

    Pros

    • Dual purpose with planted tanks and saltwater fuges
    • Reasonable price
    • Easy to Use

    Cons

    • Low controllability
    • More whites than there should be

    6. Hydrofarm T5 Fixture – For Us Old School Aquarists!

    Hydrofarm T5

    Oldschool T5s are still the very best in spread and spectrum. Ideal for dutch aquascapes

    Buy On Amazon

    A T5 light in the middle of an LED light blog post?!? What madness is this? Well, I’m an old school aquarist and know the value of T5 fixtures. This T5 fixture from Hydrofarm is a great reasonably priced option for those needing to light a longer tank.

    T5s continue to have their place for planted tanks as well as reef tanks. This unit offers no frills, but gets the job done at a reasonable price. The main thing is selecting the T5 bulbs. For a 4 bulb package – here would be my recommendation:

    There some obvious downfalls with this unit. It lack any control functions so you will need to use a timer and have to live with no ramp up or ramp down features. Being a T5, they will draw more power and will need to replace the T5 bulbs at least every year.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • T5 spread
    • T5 bulbs are idiot proof for getting the best spectrum

    Cons

    • T5 bulbs will need to be replaced
    • Consumes more power than LEDs
    • Lack of control features

    7. Kessil Tuna Sun – High End Pendant Lighting

    Kessil Tuna Sun LED

    Kessils are the best pendent lighting system for freshwater planted tanks

    Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

    The Kessil Tuna Sun is the premier pendant light for tanks with plants. What sets it apart from other pendant lights is the Dense Matrix LED, which emits more high-quality light than other pendant fixtures.This Dense Matrix creates shimmer effects and provides a great color mix that really shows off in a planted tank. They work best in 24 x 24 setups so if you have a 3 or 4 foot tank setup you will need to purchase another unit. They have goosenecks and bracket mount options that give you a lot of flexibility with install.

    The Tuna Sun also comes in a variety of models and sizes like the 360X, and A80. All are designed for different setups and needs and are capable with the Kessil Spectrum Tuner.

    The main con here is the price, these are very pricey lights, but the Kessil name is known for producing top notch and reliable products in the industry. You won’t be disappointed if you choose to go with them.

    Pros

    • Kessil name and reliability
    • Lot of models
    • Dense Matrix make this an ideal pendant for tanks with plants

    Cons

    • Pricey
    • Multiple units requires for tanks longer than 2 feet
    • Spectrum tuner required for fully customization

    8. NICREW SkyLED – Perfect Cheap LED for Low Light Tanks with Plants

    NICREW SkyLED

    If you are looking for a budget priced LED for easy to grow low light plants, look no further

    Buy On Amazon

    Most of the lights listed here so far are comprehensive lights that can handle a wide variety of plants. However, not everyone needs a high powered planted LED light and you can build a very successful and beautiful planted tank with just low light plants. That’s where this NICREW SkyLED Planted Tank Light comes into play. This is one of the best budget planted tank lights available that work well for low-light plants.

    Low Light Planted Tank

    This light is a super thin light that will look sleek and modern in any planted setup. It comes with basic lighting and moonlights that will allow you to grow low light plants.It does not have any of the controllable features like say the Fluval 3.0 has, but it gets the job done. The price for these are hard to beat and they are used for many low light plants with a lot of success.

    I do keep mentioning low light plants and you are probably wondering what those are. Here would be a few examples:

    It’s a great choice if you are planning for a simple low light planted setup.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Easy to use

    Cons

    • Lack of controllable features

    9. UNS Titan – Lights for the Pro Aquascaper

    Let’s finish off this light with a top flight high end light. The UNS Titan is the level of light we look at when we are looking to develop a high-end planted aquascape. This is the type of light you look into when you are looking at the most demanding plants and looking at professionally done aquascapes.

    This unit produces a lot of PAR as shown below. You get a natural white looking light which gives you that award winning natural landscape looking that makes people look in awe at your aquascape.

    UNS Titan Par

    It’s not a light for everyone, but if you can afford it and you are looking to grow some of the most light-demanding plants or thinking of making an aquascape to enter into a competition, this is a light to consider.

    Pros

    • Great spectrum
    • High output
    • Makes aquascapes pop

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Overkill for most setups
    • No dimmable

    Understanding The Science Behind Lighting

    Freshwater LED lighting can be broken down into three elements:

    • Spectrum
    • PAR
    • Spread.

    Step 1 – Understanding Planted Tank Light Spectrum

    There isn’t a lot posted online about planted tank light spectrum, which I find disappointing given the number of LEDs on the market. The goal with planted tank spectrum is a balanced spectrum with an emphasis on red and blues. 

    What you will find in many LED models out there is that the spectrum is deficient in reds and blues. You want to have 40-70% of the light in the red and blue spectrum. This may mean you will have to either shop around, purchase a higher-end light, or customize the spectrum on the LED model if customization is available. In general, most manufacturers aim for a 6500K spectrum light. While this is the standard you will see, other factors will matter such as the spread and intensity of the light. The Kevin rating is just a visual rating of the light.

    Step 2 – Intensity Measurements With PAR

    Just like saltwater reef tanks, plants need to have a certain intensity that we can measure in PAR. We can break down PAR levels into the following categories:

    Low Light Plants

    25-50 PAR. This is best suited for shade aquarium plants or low-light requirement plants like Java Moss.

    Medium Light Plants

    100-150 PAR. With this light level and proper C02 regulation, you can grow any available plant with this intensity level. You may not get the best coloration with red-colored plants though. This light level is ideal for carpet plants like Eleocharis Dwarf Hairgrass

    High-Intensity Light Plants

    150-250 PAR. This level of intensity is ideal for red-colored aquarium plants. This lighting intensity allows for great plant density and mitigates the shading effects of larger plants. Because this is more intense light, this required more maintenance to prune down plants and control algae issues.

    A more detailed list is below by Species from The Barr Report forum:

    PAR for Planted Tanks

    Measuring Your PAR

    Measuring PAR with a tool can be a crazy expense as the tool available are designed for reef aquariums. There is a good video from AquaPros that shows you how to make your own DIY PAR meter with the Apogee sensor and a digital multimeter that will work for a planted tank. The video is below for your reference. Using a meter like a video along with the PAR guidelines above will ensure you have the proper intensity for your plants of choice. Some manufacturers will publish the PAR data of their aquarium light fixtures, but many will not have figures published.

    Other alternatives would be to use the Seneye Reef Aquarium monitor, which comes with a PAR meter, borrow a PAR meter at your local aquarium club, or rent it from a local fish store.

    Step 3 – Understanding Aquarium Light Spread

    Spread is a major concern with densely populated tanks as taller plants will shade smaller plants as they grow. This is why having a setup that has two or more light sources is ideal for a showcase-level planted tank.

    If you go with a single bulb or fixture it is very possible to have a very high PAR level in certain areas of the aquarium and have edges or shadows completely void of adequate PAR. This is especially worrisome if one is looking at LEDs as LED themselves are focused lights versus eventually distributed like T5. The quality of your lenses and their degree angles will matter with light-emitting diode lights for tanks. 

    To provide an example, a wide-angled LED light pendant may have certain parts of the aquarium shadowed by the aquascape and plants but a T5 fixture or a wide-angled LED array will not have such an issue. When look for LEDs, you want to look at LED arrays versus pendants. Higher-end LEDs will also have built-in diffusers on them to mitigate the shadowing issues.

    FAQs

    What Lighting System Is Best For Aquarium Plants?

    A full spectrum RGB light is considered the best LED light for aquarium plants in the industry. RBG lights stand for three colors – red, green, and blue. These lights are especially important for red plants as they will display more color. Products like the Current USA Serene RBG are a good light to purchase when looking for an RBG light.

    Will Normal Lighting Grow Plants?

    Yes – they will grow plants, but not ideally. The main strength of normal white LEDs is the amount of PAR emitted, as white lights will emit the most intensity. However, you will not have as much plant growth with white lights versus a light that is designed for planted tanks such as an RBG light.

    What’s the Difference Between This Light and LED Grow Lights?

    LED Lights are generally going to be designed for freshwater planted tanks while LED grow lights are going to be designed for indoor plants. A standard white LED is mostly going to provide PAR/Intensity while these lights designed for aquariums will be designed for spectrum. Grow lights have a different spectrum and are designed to be with indoor plants.

    How Long Should I Keep My Light On For Plants?

    You should aim to keep your lights on for 8 – 10 hours a day. This will allow for plant growth, while also minimizing excess algae growth.

    Conclusion

    These lights have come a long way since they debuted. They have a wide variety of features and hopefully this list helps narrow down your decisions. A planted aquarium is a lot of fun and can be simple to setup. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below. Thank you for reading.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.