Author: Mark Valderrama

15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types: The Complete Guide for Saltwater Aquariums
Wrasses are the most diverse family of saltwater fish you will encounter. Some are peaceful reef cleaners. Some are aggressive predators. Some bury in sand. Some jump out of tanks.

The word wrasse covers peaceful cleaners and aggressive predators. Know the species before you buy.

The word wrasse covers peaceful cleaners and aggressive predators. Know the species before you buy.

Table of Contents
Wrasses are one of the largest and most diverse fish families in the ocean. And among the most popular choices for reef aquariums. After running a 125-gallon reef tank and following the saltwater side of this hobby for over 25 years, I’ve developed strong opinions on which wrasses belong in a reef and which don’t. The reef-safe question is genuinely nuanced with wrasses: some species will eat the shrimp and snails you’re trying to keep, others are fine with invertebrates but will actively hunt flatworms and bristle worms. Some need a deep sand bed to sleep in at night. Most are persistent jumpers that require a tight lid. This guide focuses on 15 reef-safe wrasse types I’d personally recommend, with honest context on what “reef safe” actually means for each species.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums

The biggest mistake I see with 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariumss is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

Introduction To Wrasses

Wrasses is found throughout the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans, though most available species come from the coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. For the most part, wrasse fish inhabit coral reef ecosystems, though the exact type of reef will depend on latitude.

Some of these wrasses are completely reef safe, while others is partially reef-safe or not reef-safe at all. For the purposes of this article, we will only be looking at those wrasse species that are completely and partially reef-safe.

Are All of Them Born Female?

Most wrasses are protogynous hermaphrodites. This means that the majority of these fish are born as females and later have the ability to turn into males in response to environmental conditions or internal changes.

This ability helps these fish when stresses, like limited mates or resources, impact the ability to reproduce. Because conditions are stable in the aquarium, there is little need for fish to change sexes.

Classification

Order Perciformes

Family Labridae

Common Name Wrasses

Species Count Over 600 species across 82 genera

Requirements And Temperament

Since there are so many species of wrasse available in the marine aquarium hobby, setting a generalization for care is not possible. Species, like the pygmy wrasse (Wetmorella nigropinnata), do well in nano tanks under 20 gallons while other larger and more active wrasse need much larger setups.

There is one general care requirement for these fish though, and that is that they need a decently deep sandbed. This is because most wrasses sleep in the sandbed; they will also use the sandbed to hide when stressed, which causes a lot of mysterious disappearances for hobbyists.

In addition to sleeping in the sand bed, some wrasses will excrete a mucus cocoon to sleep in. If they are visible in the tank at night, you may notice them perched in between or underneath the rocks in a trance-like state. As soon as the lights turn on, you may see some remnants of the cocoon sloughing off.

Are They Aggressive?

In general, wrasses are community fish. Some species are shyer than others, but they aren’t known for becoming the bully of the tank. Though some species from the Pseudocheilinus genus, like six-line wrasses, have been known to become especially problematic.

Of course, this is entirely dependent on the individual personality of the wrasse.

Are They Hard To Keep?

Wrasses are active fish that will constantly search for food in and out of the rocks. Some wrasse species have specific dietary needs, like live copepods and various frozen foods. This can make feeding some of the more advanced wrasses more challenging.

Wrasses can also be difficult to safely acclimate to a new tank, but they are hardy once established. These marine fish are notorious for carrying external and internal parasites, like flukes. Because of this, it is strongly recommended to quarantine them for several weeks before adding them to the main display.

It is also required to have a tight lid on the aquarium as these fish are master escape artists.

Types

More likely than not, you will want to add at least one wrasse to your aquarium. The problem is that some wrasse types need certain setups or diets and success will depend on the skill level of the keeper.

Here are the most common genera of wrasse to find in the aquarium hobby:
- Anampses
- Cirrhilabrus
- Halichoeres
- Labroides
- Macropharyngodon
- Paracheilnus
- Pseudocheilinus
- Pseudojuloides
- Wetmorella
Not all of these wrasses are entirely reef-safe, though. Some wrasses might leave corals alone but nibble at shrimp and other reef crustaceans instead.

The Best 15 For Saltwater Tanks

To help differentiate between the best 15 wrasses for saltwater tanks, we have created categories for fully reef-safe wrasses and partially reef-safe wrasses. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. If you like our channel, be sure to subscribe. We post videos every week.

Fully reef-safe wrasses is kept with corals and all invertebrates. Partially reef-safe wrasses is kept with corals but should be watched when kept with other invertebrates.

Fully Reef Safe

For the most part, the wrasse species listed in this group will not pick at corals or invertebrates. However, there is always the chance that your specific fish picks at them in your own aquarium.

1. Blue Striped Tamarin (Anampses femininus)
- Species Type: Anampses
- Scientific Name: Anampses femininus
- Size: 10 inches
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 120 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
One of the most expensive and challenging wrasse species, the blue striped tamarin is unmatched. These large fish turn from yellow to royal blue as you move from their head to their tail. All along the body, they have even more electric blue horizontal stripes, earning them their name.

Blue striped tamarins are collected from very exact locations throughout the Melanesia region of the Pacific Ocean. There, they feed on coral reefs in small groups. In the aquarium, they are entirely reef safe.

2. Flame (Cirrhilabrus jordani)
- Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
- Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus jordani
- Size: 4 inches
- Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 90 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The flame wrasse, also known as Jordan’s fairy wrasse, is a stunning red and yellow colored fish with extended feathery fins. These fish come from the tropical waters surrounding the Hawaiin islands, feeding on zooplankton and other invertebrates in the water column (Video Source).

Though their dietary needs are more specific than other wrasses, they are compatible with both corals and invertebrates.

3. Scott’s Fairy (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)
- Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
- Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus scottorum
- Size: 6 inches
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 90 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
Scott’s fairy wrasse is a whirlwind of vibrant colors. Though the variation of color changes based on where they originated from (most commonly Australia, Tonga, and Fiji), they have a silky green body that transitions into blue and red. The caudal fin is red and the dorsal fin may with yellow with a darker margin.

In the wild, these wrasses are mostly found on the outskirts of the reef which means that your fish might enjoy having some extra swimming space. Luckily, they are completely coral and invertebrate safe.

4. Red-Headed Solon Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)

https://youtu.be/_PjHm5fWSQc
- Species Type: Cirrhilabrus
- Scientific Name: Cirrhilabrus solorensis
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
- Tank Size: 90 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
The red-headed solon fairy wrasse is aptly named after its orangey-red head at the tip of its light blue with cream underbelly body. This Indonesian species is sometimes compared to the blueside wrasse (Cirrhilabrus cyanopleura) due to similarities in appearance, though they are two separate species (Video Source).

These wrasses are found in slightly deeper waters and will not pick at corals or invertebrates.

5. Yellow Banded Possum (Wetmorella nigropinnata)
- Species Type: Wetmorella
- Scientific Name: Wetmorella nigropinnata
- Size: 3 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 15 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
On paper, the yellow banded possum wrasse is a perfect species for nano tanks: they are smaller fish and not as active as other larger wrasses. However, they are extremely sensitive to changes in parameters and have a pretty exact diet. These fish feed heavily on live copepods, though most individuals can thrive with a selection of frozen foods.

This wrasse species is named after the bands at the front of their head and at the base of their tail against their red body. Yellow banded possums are described as cryptic and finicky as they are often hiding in the rocks or cruising for food.

These wrasses are completely reef-safe and will not eat invertebrates due to their small mouth.

6. McCosker’s Flasher (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)
- Species Type: Paracheilinus
- Scientific Name: Paracheilinus mccoskeri
- Size: 3 inches
- Origin: Indo-West Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 55 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon
McCosker’s flasher wrasse is a beautiful fish with an orange and red body and electric blue highlights. These fish are very hardy and active but will stay towards the bottom portions of the aquarium. McCosker’s wrasses are also very likely to take well to other wrasses, especially multiple females, making this species one of the more popular to breed.

For the most part, these fish will leave both corals and small invertebrates alone. There is always the chance that they’ll eat any worms or snails that they find, though!

7. Carpenter’s (Paracheilinus carpenteri)
- Species Type: Paracheilinus
- Scientific Name: Paracheilinus carpenteri
- Size: 3 inches
- Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 55 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
Carpenter’s wrasses are an extremely popular type of wrasse, largely due to their bright red and yellow colors. These fish do even better when kept in group settings, which can add tons of color and movement to the aquarium. It is strongly recommended to add females first and then a single male.

These wrasses are pretty good citizens of the tank and won’t pick at corals or invertebrates. As always, there is a chance that your individual Carpenter’s wrasse will pick, though.

8. Filamented Flasher (Paracheilinus filamentosus)

https://youtu.be/eXEEKLdwSfY
- Species Type: Paracheilinus
- Scientific Name: Paracheilinus filamentosus
- Size: 4 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 55 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
These fish are similar in color to Carpenter’s wrasses but are more uniform red. The filamented flasher wrasse, also known as the whip-fin fairy wrasse, also does well with a group of females but the order of addition is less important. Filamented flasher wrasses rarely pick at corals and invertebrates, so they is kept in most setups!

Interestingly, these fish have been known to hybridize with other species in the wild so it is recommended to not keep closely related species within the same tank.

Partially Reef-Safe

Wrasse species within this group should be expected to pick at smaller invertebrates and possibly even corals. There is the chance that they will behave in your tank, but caution is needed.

9. Yellow Coris (Halichoeres chrysus)
- Species Type: Halichoeres
- Scientific Name: Halichoeres chrysus
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
- Tank Size: 50 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The yellow coris wrasse, also known as the golden rainbowfish or canary wrasse, is a very popular fish due to its vibrant, uniform yellow coloration. This yellow wrasse is relatively hardy and prefers to be in communities with other wrasse.

Yellow coris wrasses will happily eat various worms, coral pests, and snails they find around coral reefs. Though they will keep corals untouched, they cannot differentiate between good and bad smaller invertebrates. This makes them partially reef-safe.

10. Melanurus (Halichoeres melanurus)
- Species Type: Halichoeres
- Scientific Name: Halichoeres melanurus
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 50 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Uncommon
The melanurus wrasse goes by a few names including Hoeven’s wrasse and tail-spot wrasse. These fish have all colors of the rainbow with horizontal blue stripes along their yellow-blue body.

This wrasse species is found around shallow reefs near Australia, Fiji, and Indonesia. There, they feed on small invertebrates among corals; in the aquarium, they leave corals alone but should not be trusted with smaller worms and snails.

11. Christmas (Halichoeres claudia)
- Species Type: Halichoeres
- Scientific Name: Halichoeres claudia
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 50 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
These festive fish from Fiji are named after their red and green color variations! Christmas wrasses, also called Claudia’s wrasse, are an easy and colorful wrasse species to add to the reef aquarium. They are also one of the more inexpensive species available.

However, Christmas wrasses are likely to eat smaller invertebrates like the rest of the Halichoeres species on this list.

12. Red-Line (Halichoeres biocellatus)
- Species Type: Halichoeres
- Scientific Name: Halichoeres biocellatus
- Size: 4 inches
- Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 50 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
The red-line wrasse is similar to the Christmas wrasse in color and size. However, these fish have a much darker base green color and burnt orange patterns instead of red; they are also slightly smaller and originate from more western waters around the Philippines and Japan.

These fish are found around the perimeters on the reef, in more open water. This means that they will prefer having some extra swimming area.

Though the red-line wrasse won’t eat corals, they will definitely pick at invertebrates they find in between the rocks.

13. Six-Line (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)
- Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
- Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
- Size: 3 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 55 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The six-line wrasse is probably one of the most well-known species of wrasse in the aquarium hobby due to its size, activity levels, and attractive appearance.

For a long time, however, these small fish were categorized as a nano species. Though they might look like they would fit perfectly into a small display, their demanding activity levels leave them needing a large tank with open swimming space and intricate rockwork.

Six-line wrasses are a bluish-purple color with six horizontal orange stripes that lead into their green tail fin. Though small, these fish are very active and can show aggression towards other wrasses. Because they are so small, there is less of a chance for them to eat any larger invertebrates in your tank, though they do favor copepods and bristleworms.

14. Eight-Line (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia)
- Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
- Scientific Name: Pseudocheilinus octotaenia
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 55 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The eight-line wrasse is different from the six-line wrasse in terms of size and appearance. However, their temperaments is just as aggressive as their smaller counterparts.

The eight-line wrasse is slightly less popular due to its paler yellow and pink colorations and larger size. This difference of 2 inches also allows the eight-line wrasse to eat more invertebrates than the six-line, leaving urchins, snails, and bigger worms at risk.

15. Small Tail Pencil (Pseudojuloides cerasinus)
- Species Type: Pseudocheilinus
- Scientific Name: Pseudojuloides cerasinus
- Size: 5 inches
- Origin: Eastern Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 75 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
Small tail pencil wrasses are pretty rare to come by in the aquarium hobby (picture source). They’re a recent addition and not all of their behaviors and personalities are fully understood. Based on how other species within this genus interact with the reef, it is safe to assume that they are only partially reef-safe.

This wrasse species is named after its narrow body which ends in a proportionally small caudal fin. Otherwise, they have pretty basic red colors with a signature yellow eye. They are only found in the tropical waters around Hawaii but form a complex with other species in the Pseudocheilinus genus.

Other Types (To Avoid)

There are a few wrasses for sale that you will see at the local fish store that are very popular, but should be avoided for reefs. Here are a few below:

1. Bird
- Species Type: Gomphosus
- Scientific Name: Gomphosus varius
- Size: 11 inches
- Origin: Fiji
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
The bird wrasse is a beautiful and active wrasse fish that unfortunately gets large. It is not reef safe as it will happy consume any inverts it can grab and will also eat any fish that it can fit in its mouth. These are best for fish only for fish only with live rock systems. The bird wrasse is a hardy fish, just not appropriate for a reef tank. They are one of the few wrasses you can successfully pair.

2. Dragon
- Species Type: Novaculichthys
- Scientific Name: Novaculichthys taeniourus
- Size: 12 inches
- Origin: Fiji
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
A Dragon wrasse is an amazing fish to find at a local fish store. You see them in their juvenile form, which has a unique mohawk like fin on its head. They are cute, very active, and full of personality. Unfortunately they grow to foot long and will tear apart any invert in your aquarium. They are also disruptive to corals as they will move them and arrange rocks in the tank.

They also are one of the less hardy Wrasses you can purchase. Overall, a wrasse you should avoid unless you want to place them in a fish only or fish only with live rock system.

3. Leopard
- Species Type: Macropharyngodon
- Scientific Name: Macropharyngodon meleagris
- Size: 6 inches
- Origin: Fiji
- Tank Size: 90 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not available
The Leopard Wrasse is a beautiful fish that actually is reef safe, however, they do poorly in captivity. They are notoriously difficult to successfully establish in an aquarium. Many tend to die because they do not accumulate well to fish food. They also tend to get shipped with damaged mouths, which leads to their deaths.

Leave these Wrasses to the experts or in the ocean.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most reef-safe wrasse?

The Fairy Wrasses (Cirrhilabrus species) are widely considered the most reef-safe wrasses. They are peaceful, colorful, and completely ignore corals and invertebrates. Popular choices include the Carpenter Fairy Wrasse and the McCosker Flasher Wrasse.

Do wrasses jump out of the tank?

Yes, wrasses are notorious jumpers. A tight-fitting lid or mesh screen over the top of the tank is essential. Many experienced reefers have lost wrasses to jumping, especially during the first few days after introduction when they are stressed and exploring their new environment.

How big do reef-safe wrasses get?

Most reef-safe wrasses stay between 3 to 6 inches in length. Fairy wrasses and flasher wrasses are on the smaller end at 3 to 4 inches, while melanurus wrasses and leopard wrasses can reach 5 to 6 inches. Always research the adult size of the specific species before purchasing.

Can you keep multiple wrasses together?

Yes, you can keep multiple wrasse species together in a sufficiently large tank, 75 gallons or more. Avoid keeping two of the same species unless they are a mated pair. Mixing different genera, such as a fairy wrasse with a flasher wrasse, works well.

Do wrasses eat pests?

Many wrasses are excellent pest control fish. Six Line Wrasses eat flatworms and pyramidellid snails. Melanurus Wrasses consume bristle worms, flatworms, and small snails. Leopard Wrasses eat parasitic pyramid snails. They are among the best natural pest controllers in a reef tank.

Expert Take

Wrasses are one of the most useful families in a reef tank: active, pest-controlling, and visually dynamic. But many species become aggressive once established. The stocking order matters. Add your wrasse last and you will have far fewer problems than the keeper who added it second. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate. Wrasses are rewarding saltwater fish but require careful stocking order and appropriate tank volume. Not all are reef-safe with small invertebrates.

Hard Rule: Add wrasses last in your saltwater stocking sequence. An established wrasse will aggressively defend its territory against most fish added afterward. This is especially true of six-line wrasses and larger aggressive species.

The Reality of Keeping Wrasses

Wrasses are in constant motion during daylight hours, darting, hunting, and investigating every corner of the tank. A healthy, well-fed wrasse is one of the most entertaining fish in the hobby. But they eat heavily, produce significant waste, and require a varied, protein-rich diet to maintain their health and color long-term.

Is the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Right for You?

Before you add a 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:
- You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
- You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
- You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
- You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariumss need tank mates that can hold their own.
- You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
- You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
- You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

Avoid If:
- You plan to add new fish after your wrasse is established. Introductions become difficult and stressful
- You keep very small, docile fish or ornamental invertebrates that certain wrasse species will hunt
- You want a low-bioload reef with minimal feeding requirements
- You are new to saltwater fishkeeping. Wrasses are best added once you understand marine water chemistry
How the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums stacks up against some common alternatives.

The 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 15 reef-safe wrasse types for saltwater aquariums needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Final Thoughts

There are many, many more wrasse species that is right for your aquarium but these are just some of the most popular!

As behavior, tank requirements, and diet can change drastically from wrasse to wrasse, always make sure to research the specific species you plan on getting before bringing it home. Always quarantine your wrasses before adding them to your display since they are likely carrying internal or external parasites!
December 8, 2021
Worms In Fish Tank – ID Guide for the 4 Main Types
Finding worms in your aquarium is one of those moments that can cause instant panic. but the reality is that not all worms are harmful, and some are actually beneficial. I’ve encountered every major type of aquarium worm over 25 years of fishkeeping, from harmless detritus worms to parasitic camallanus worms that can devastate a fish population if left unchecked. The most important thing is being able to identify what you’re dealing with quickly so you can take the right action. This guide covers the four main types you’re likely to encounter and what each one means for your tank.

4 Types of Aquarium Worms

There are many types of pests that can turn up in aquariums and worms are a common culprit. In this article, I’ll be introducing 4 common types of worms found in fish tanks and ponds.

For each type, I will provide you with some important information about:
- Identifying the worm type
- Where they occur in the aquarium
- What causes them to spread and multiply
- How to treat them
So let’s get started!

1. Detritus

Detritus worms are common but harmless segmented worms. Many aquarists would rather not have any worms in their tanks, but detritus worms are actually a great member of your tank’s clean-up crew. These tiny annelid worms work hard to break down waste which helps keep the tank clean and the water quality high.

Detritus worms can reproduce rapidly in poorly maintained aquariums with too much waste and uneaten fish food.

Appearance

Detritus worms are segmented (annelid) worms, which puts them in the same family as the regular earthworm.

They are usually tiny white worms, but there are a bunch of different species, and some of the larger types can grow to an inch in length.

Where They Occur

Detritus worms usually live in the substrate, but they can also be found hiding in other places like your aquarium filter media. When the population of detritus worms in an aquarium explodes, they can be seen all over the place, even at the surface of the water.

Causes

Detritus worms find their way into aquariums with new fish and plants, or in translocated gravel, filter media, or water. They are present in many fish tanks and really don’t do any harm.

The detritus worm population increases when your water quality gets really bad and there is plenty of food for them in the form of leftover fish foods and waste. To prevent a detritus worms population explosion, make sure you maintain good water quality and dissolved oxygen levels.

Treatment Options

The best way to get rid of detritus worms is to give your tank a thorough cleaning and vacuum the gravel. To prevent detritus worms from coming back, keep up with regular aquarium maintenance and avoid overfeeding and overstocking your tank.

Chemical treatments are unnecessary for controlling detritus worms.

2. Planaria

Planaria worms are another common aquarium pest. These worms occur in both fresh and saltwater and can be quite a headache for fish and shrimp keepers.

These creatures are a little more sinister than the detritus worms because they are actually predators. These worms eat other small animals and they have been known to eat baby shrimps, as well as recently molted or weakened adult shrimps.

Appearance

Planaria worms are flatworms of the turbellaria family. These flattened worms have a triangular head shape and two visible eyes, which makes them pretty easy to identify.

They come in a variety of colors including white, red, and brown. They are usually seen crawling around because they are unable to swim.

Planaria worms look similar to the harmless rhabdocoela worms which are also a type of flatworm. Rhabdocoela worms are much smaller, however, and feed on bacteria and algae.

Where They Occur

Planaria worms are usually found in or on the substrate, or on the aquarium glass. These flatworms are unable to swim, so you won’t find them in the water column.

Causes

Planaria worms get into aquariums from water, materials, plants, and animals brought over from other infected aquariums and water sources. Quarantining new fish and sterilizing new plants before introducing them to your tank is always a good idea.

Treatment Options

The best way to get rid of, or at least manage the population of planaria worms is to use either traps or poisons. Some fish will also feed on the planaria in your aquarium.

3. Anchor

Anchor worms, or Lernaea, are common parasites that attach to aquarium fish. These unwelcome creatures are large enough to be seen with the naked eye.

Appearance

Anchor worms are visible as string-like structures that trail from the bodies of freshwater fish.

Their name is a little confusing since these creatures are actually crustaceans, and the worm-like part that is visible is, in fact, the female reproductive structure. They also have an anchor-like structure beneath the fish’s skin that keeps them locked in place.

Where They Occur

Anchor worms attach themselves to the skin of freshwater fish. They mostly affect cyprinid fish like goldfish and koi, but there are several different types of anchor worms and many different fish species can be affected.

Causes

Anchor worms find their way into aquariums when infected fish are introduced. The best way to avoid this is to quarantine your livestock before introduction to your fish tank. Anchor worms can also be introduced on live plants or in any water transferred to your tank.

Treatment Options

You can get rid of anchor worms with a chemical treatment, and by manually removing them from your fish.

While manually removing them with tweezers can be very effective, it is also risky and stressful for your fish. The wounds this can cause can be more harmful than the parasites themselves, especially in smaller, more sensitive fish.

Chemical treatments for anchor worms include:
- Potassium permanganate
- Hikari Cyropro
- Dimilin
- Salt
You can learn more about them and other parasites in my fish diseases post.

4. Camallanus

Camallanus worms (picture source) are another dreaded aquarium pest. These parasites can be common in livebearers but also affect many different fish species. This infection causes bloating and wasting disease, which can eventually kill your fish.

Appearance

Camallanus worms can go undetected in small numbers, but when you do spot them, it can be pretty alarming. These fish parasites are visible as thin red worms that protrude from the fish’s anus. They have the ability to retreat back into the host fish’s body, so they are not always visible.

Where They Occur

Camallanus worms are internal parasites, which means they live inside your fish.

Causes

Camallanus worms get into fish tanks when bringing in new livestock and fish from other infected sources like pet stores or friends’ tanks.

Treatment Options

Camallanus worms can be tough to get rid of! If you notice any infected fish, take action right away.

The best treatment is to use medications like Fenbendazole. Fortunately, these antihelminthic medicines are safe for inverts like shrimps and snails in the correct doses.

Levamisole is another popular treatment for these parasites.

Removal & Treatment

Worm removal begins with identifying the type of worm you have and identifying the cause. Once you have that worked out, you can put together an action plan!

We have a video below from our YouTube channel that will guide you. We go over more in detail in this blog. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post every week.

Let’s take a look at how to control worm populations in your aquarium.

How To Avoid Introducing Them

Prevention is always better than cure, just as the old saying goes! Even if you already have a worm problem, preventing further introductions in the future is definitely a good idea. Let’s take a look at how to keep unwanted critters out of your tank:
- Buy your fish from a trusted source
- Grow tissue culture plants that are pest-free. (Buceplant stocks a great range of these). Avoid adding wild pond plants to your tank
- Add as little water from outside sources as possible. Natural waterways and other aquariums are especially risky sources
- Quarantine your fish before adding them to a community tank
- Dip your plants to kill any hitch-hiking pests
Maintaining Good Water Quality

Water quality can be both the cause of worm infestations, as well a factor that makes a bad situation even worse. The main causes of poor water quality are:
- Leftover food from overfeeding your fish. Leftover fish food increases nutrient levels in the water and can cause algae growth too
- Excess waste in the aquarium system from too many fish or a lack of maintenance
- Plant waste in the form of rotting leaves will also reduce water quality
- Poor filtration
Poor water quality creates a great environment for worms to multiply, and also weakens your fish’s immune system, making them more susceptible to attack by parasites.

To stay on top of the water quality in your tank, make sure you run a good quality filter, perform regular partial water changes, and test your water parameters regularly.

Using A Gravel Vacuum

Giving your aquarium a thorough cleaning every few weeks is a very important part of aquarium maintenance. Your gravel vacuum is one of the most useful tools you have for keeping the water quality in your tank high and preventing pest problems.

By vacuuming the substrate, you not only remove the worms and larvae, but also the leftover food and waste that feeds them.

Using A Trap

Trapping can be a very effective means of controlling the population of stubborn worms like planaria. You aren’t likely to remove all of them this way, but it is a great option for aquarists who prefer not to use chemical treatments.

A worm trap is a device that is baited with a food source like shrimp meat or frozen bloodworms. The planaria worms then enter the trap, allowing you to remove them easily.

Planaria Trap

This glass tube is specially designed to trap and remove Planaria

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Avoid leaving large amounts of bait in your tank for extended periods because this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes and reduce water quality.

Introducing Predatory Fish

In the case of non-parasitic worms like planaria and detritus worms, bottom feeders like loaches and other predatory fish can definitely be helpful. These worms will be seen as a tasty snack, and even if the fish can’t eradicate them completely, they will still help to keep the population under control.

Unfortunately, when it comes to parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms, your fish are the victims and will not be able to help themselves.

Chemical Treatment

Sometimes, using medications and chemical treatments is the only option, even though many aquarists would prefer not to.

Dangerous parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms should be eradicated as quickly and efficiently as possible. There are many products available, and if you’re uncertain about treating your own fish, reaching out to a veterinarian is always a safer bet.

Here’s a short list of commonly used chemical treatments that are available for aquarium water and fish treatment.
- Fenbendazole
My Pick

Absolute Wormer +

An aquarium safe Fenbendazole treatment. Works against Flukes, Tapeworms, Nematodes, Planaria, Camallanus and more!

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Fenbendazole is an active canine dewormer ingredient that is very effective for wiping out planarians in aquariums.
- Levamisole
Levamisole is an antihelminthic medication that can be very effective in the control of nematodes like camallanus worms. Unfortunately, this medication can be dangerous to shrimp and some fish such as loaches if overdosed.
- Dimilin
Dimilin x is a very useful product for controlling infestations of anchor worms. This is a very powerful treatment, however, so great care is necessary when calculating dosages.

FAQs

Are they bad in a fish tank?

Not all worms in fish tanks are bad. Some, like the detritus worms, are quite harmless. If you find any worms in your fish tank, make sure to identify them as accurately as possible to decide on the best treatment plan.

Are they harmful to humans?

No, fish tank worms are not dangerous to humans. There are, however, some (rare) conditions that humans can get from aquariums, so it’s a good idea to wash your hands after tank maintenance, and avoid swallowing aquarium water.

Where do they come from?

Fish tank worms find their way into our aquariums with animals, objects, or water from other aquariums or natural water sources. They tend to come in with plants, fish, water, gravel, and aquarium filter media.

Are planaria harmful to fish?

Planaria are usually not harmful to healthy fish. They can attack sick or injured fish, however. Planaria worms are harmful to shrimp and snails, so it is best to get rid of these pests as soon as possible.

Final Thoughts

If you’re dealing with an aquarium worm problem, rest assured, you’re not alone. Spotting a worm in your tank can be pretty alarming, but there’s no need to panic. Simply start by identifying the creature, and then be sure to follow the necessary steps or consult a veterinarian if necessary.

Have you had any aquarium worm issues lately? Let me know how you solved the problem below!

🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
December 7, 2021
7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks – Species That Actually Survive
Goldfish eat plants. That’s not a possibility. That’s a guarantee. If you drop most aquarium plants into a goldfish tank, you’re not setting up a planted tank; you’re setting up a buffet. The honest question isn’t “will goldfish eat my plants?” It’s “which plants can actually survive them?”

After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve watched more plants get shredded in goldfish tanks than I care to count. Here’s what actually works, and why most of what you read about goldfish plants gets it wrong.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

In 25+ years keeping goldfish and managing fish stores, I’ve seen this scenario play out dozens of times: someone buys a gorgeous planted tank setup, adds goldfish, and within a week the plants are either eaten down to stems or uprooted and floating. Java fern and anubias are the two I’d bet on surviving. Goldfish don’t like the texture of those thick, rubbery leaves. Floating plants are the other big winner because goldfish can graze on them without destroying them completely, and they grow back fast. One thing most guides skip: goldfish prefer cooler water, 65-72°F (18-22°C), and most tropical plants struggle at those temps. That alone eliminates half the plants people try.

Why Planting a Goldfish Tank Is Harder Than It Looks

There are three things working against you when you try to plant a goldfish tank, and you need to understand all three before you spend money on plants.

Temperature

Goldfish prefer 65-72°F (18-22°C). That’s significantly cooler than the 75-80°F (24-27°C) most tropical aquarium plants need. Vallisneria, stem plants, many crypts. They’ll survive but grow slowly, or not at all. You need plants that are either coldwater species or at least tolerant of cooler conditions. This eliminates more options than most people realize.

Plant Placement

Goldfish dig. They’ll uproot anything planted in substrate, given enough time and motivation. Rooted plants in gravel or sand are a losing battle in most goldfish setups. The plants that work are either floating, attached to hardscape (rocks, driftwood), or bulb plants with roots heavy enough to resist disturbance. If it goes in the substrate, plan for it to come out.

High Nutrient Loads

Goldfish are messy. A pair of fancy goldfish in a 40-gallon produces more waste than a full community of tropical fish. Nitrates climb fast. That’s actually good news for plants (the nutrients are there), but it also means fast-growing species can take over quickly. You want plants that absorb nutrients well without becoming an uncontrollable problem.

They Will Eat Most Plants

Goldfish aren’t picky. Soft-leafed plants like hornwort, cabomba, and most stem plants will be grazed to nothing. The plants that survive do so because goldfish find them unpalatable (tough leaves, bitter compounds) or because they grow fast enough to outpace the damage. Elodea/anacharis falls into the second category: goldfish will eat it, but it grows back faster than they can consume it. That’s not a solution for everyone, but it works.
How We Selected These Goldfish Plants
1. Palatability: less appetizing to goldfish than typical soft-leafed plants
2. Temperature tolerance: thrives in the cooler water goldfish prefer (65-72°F / 18-22°C)
3. Hardiness: survives some nibbling without dying
4. Root security: either floats, attaches to hardscape, or has roots goldfish can’t easily pull up
5. Growth rate: fast enough to outpace minor goldfish damage
Should You Try Live Plants in a Goldfish Tank?

This is the question most plant guides won’t answer directly. Here’s my honest take.
Live Plants in a Goldfish Tank: Worth It?
Try It If

You’re willing to accept some plant loss

Fancy goldfish (slower, less aggressive nibbling than comets)

Floating plants specifically, and much harder for goldfish to eat

Large tank (55+ gallons) with room for plants to establish

Skip It If

Comet goldfish: relentless plant destroyers

relentless plant destroyers
You’re on a budget and can’t afford to replace plants

Small tank where plants have no room to establish

You want a neat, manicured aquascape. Goldfish will ruin it
What People Get Wrong About Goldfish and Plants

The biggest mistake: walking into a fish store, picking out beautiful, delicate plants like ludwigia or rotala, and expecting goldfish to leave them alone. They won’t. Soft-stemmed, fine-leafed plants are the equivalent of a salad bar to goldfish. They’ll strip them in days. The second mistake is planting anything in substrate and expecting it to stay put. Goldfish will uproot rooted plants repeatedly until the plant gives up. If you’ve tried plants in a goldfish tank and failed, this is almost certainly what happened.

The other thing most guides miss: they recommend plants without factoring in temperature. A lot of popular aquarium plants need 75°F (24°C) or warmer to thrive. Goldfish tanks run cooler. Growth stalls. Plants look rough. People assume the goldfish ate them when really they just slowly declined from thermal stress.

Hard Rule: If you can’t accept that goldfish may eat it, buy silk. Silk plants are the honest answer for goldfish keepers who want greenery without the battle. Just make sure they’re soft enough not to shred your goldfish’s fins.

The 7 Best Plants For Goldfish

These are the plants I’d actually put money on in a goldfish tank. Not the ones that might survive: the ones that consistently do.

1. Java Fern

Mark’s Top Pick for Goldfish Tanks

Java fern attached to a rock or piece of driftwood is my number one recommendation for goldfish tanks. The leaves are thick and fibrous, and goldfish mouth them but don’t eat them. It doesn’t go in the substrate, so there’s nothing to uproot. It grows in low light, handles cooler temps fine, and I’ve seen it survive in goldfish tanks where every other plant was destroyed. If I had to bet on one plant surviving a goldfish tank long-term, this is it.

Editor’s Choice

Java Fern

Editor’s Choice

Hardy, easy to care for, and requires only basic lighting to grow. This is the perfect aquarium plant for beginners!

Buy On Buce Plant

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- Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Size: 13.5 inches (34.3 cm)
- Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Mid to background
- Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
- CO2 Requirement: Low
Java fern is the most goldfish-proof live plant I know. The leaves are thick and fibrous, not the soft, tender growth goldfish prefer. Goldfish will mouth java fern, but they almost never actually eat it. Attach it to a rock or piece of driftwood with fishing line or a rubber band, and it takes root on its own over time. No substrate needed. No CO2 needed. Low light is fine.

Java fern actually rots if you bury the rhizome in substrate, so the goldfish uprooting problem doesn’t apply here. It grows where it attaches. This is exactly the kind of plant a goldfish tank needs: one that doesn’t depend on the substrate, doesn’t need coddling, and doesn’t taste good to goldfish.

2. Java Moss

Java Moss

A great beginner plant that will do well in low light. Attaches well to driftwood and rocks

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- Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Size: 3-10 inches (7.6-25.4 cm)
- Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Foreground to midground
- Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
- CO2 Requirement: Low to medium
Java moss survives goldfish the same way a lawn survives being mowed: by growing back fast. Goldfish will pick at it. They’ll pull chunks loose and rearrange it around the tank. But java moss has rhizoids instead of roots, sticking to any surface it contacts, and it keeps growing. Most goldfish keepers who fail with java moss made the mistake of not giving it enough to attach to.

Tie it to a piece of driftwood or a rock. Let it establish. Java moss in low light, cool water, high nutrients. That’s a combination where this plant actually thrives, not just survives. It won’t win a beauty contest in a goldfish tank, but it’ll still be there in six months when everything else has been eaten.

3. Anubias

Best Value

Anubias Barteri

Best Value

A forgiving low light aquarium plant that will not be eaten by most fish

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- Scientific Name: Anubias species
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Size: 4-15.7 inches (10-40 cm) depending on species
- Lighting: Low to high (40-200 PAR) depending on species
- Tank Placement: Foreground to background depending on species
- Growth Rate: Slow
- CO2 Requirement: Low
Anubias is the other plant I’d put alongside java fern as a genuine goldfish-tank survivor. The leaves are thick and slightly bitter. Goldfish learn quickly that they don’t taste right and mostly leave them alone. Like java fern, anubias attaches to hardscape rather than growing in substrate, so the uprooting problem doesn’t apply.

The one weakness of anubias: it’s slow. Very slow. That means algae can colonize the leaves before the plant has a chance to grow past it. In a high-nutrient goldfish tank, algae management on anubias leaves is an ongoing task. A nerite snail or two in the tank helps a lot. Keep the rhizome out of the substrate. Bury it and it rots.

4. Marimo Moss Ball

Budget Option

Marimo Moss Ball

Budget Option

A cheap and easy to care for aquarium plant. Thrives in low light and very low maintenance

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- Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Size: 2.3-12 inches (5.8-30.5 cm)
- Lighting: Low to moderate (40-125 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Foreground to midground
- Growth Rate: Very slow
- CO2 Requirement: Low
The marimo moss ball is technically algae, not a plant, but it earns its spot on this list. Most goldfish will investigate it, mouth it a bit, and then leave it alone. The dense, compact structure doesn’t offer the soft, chewable texture goldfish are looking for. It also performs double duty in a goldfish tank: nitrate absorption is real, and it harbors beneficial bacteria that help keep the tank stable.

Rotate it occasionally to keep it round. Rinse it gently during water changes. That’s the extent of the maintenance. In a goldfish tank with high nutrients and lower light, marimo actually performs better than in many planted community setups.

5. Crinum calamistratum (African Onion Plant)

Crinum Calamistratumn

A bulb plant that does well against plant eaters due to its odd shape and hard leaves

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- Scientific Name: Crinum calamistratum
- Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
- Size: 36-48 inches (91.4-122 cm)
- Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Background
- Growth Rate: Slow
- CO2 Requirement: Low
Crinum calamistratum, the African onion plant, is one of the most underrated options for goldfish tanks. The leaves are long, curling, and waxy, nothing like the soft, broad leaves goldfish prefer to eat. Goldfish generally ignore it. The bulb anchors it firmly enough that goldfish can’t easily uproot it, though a determined fish in a smaller tank might manage eventually.

This plant gets big (up to 4 feet / 122 cm), so it’s a background plant only, and only in tanks 40 gallons or larger. If you want something different from the usual java fern and anubias combination, this is worth trying. Needs moderate to high light, which is one reason it’s less commonly used.

6. Water Sprite

Water Sprite

Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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- Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
- Skill Level: Beginner to intermediate
- Size: 6-11.8 inches (15-30 cm)
- Lighting: Moderate to high (100-200 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Midground, background, or floating
- Growth Rate: Fast
- CO2 Requirement: Low
Water sprite works on a different principle from java fern and anubias. Goldfish will eat it. That’s fine. It grows fast enough to keep up. Use it floating rather than planted in substrate. Floating water sprite grows significantly faster than rooted water sprite because it gets maximum light at the surface. In a goldfish tank with high nutrients and good light, it can grow several inches per week.

Water sprite also does a solid job processing nitrates, which is genuinely helpful in a goldfish tank. Think of it as a sacrificial plant that earns its spot by pulling nutrients out of the water while it’s being gradually consumed. Replace as needed.

7. Elodea (Anacharis)

Anacharis

Excellent as a food source and sucks up nutrients in an aquarium. One of the easiest freshwater plants to care for

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- Scientific Name: Elodea species
- Skill Level: Beginner
- Size: 4-36 inches (10.2-91.4 cm) depending on species
- Lighting: Moderate to very high (100-250 PAR)
- Tank Placement: Background or floating
- Growth Rate: Very fast
- CO2 Requirement: Low to high
Elodea is the “let them eat it” plant. Goldfish love it. The stems are soft and palatable, and goldfish will graze on it constantly. The reason it works isn’t because goldfish won’t eat it. They will. It works because it grows faster than goldfish can consume it, especially when floated at the surface with good light exposure.

Use elodea as a supplemental food source and a nitrate sponge. It’s not a display plant. It’s utility planting. Float bunches of it, let the goldfish graze, trim or replace stems as needed. In a large goldfish tank with good light, elodea becomes a self-replenishing food supply. Just watch that it doesn’t take over. In ideal conditions it grows aggressively.
What Most Goldfish Plant Guides Get Wrong
- Recommending tropical plants that need 75-80°F (24-27°C). Goldfish tanks run 65-72°F (18-22°C) and many tropical plants stall or decline at those temperatures
- Not being honest that goldfish will eat most plants given the chance. The list of plants they won’t touch is much shorter than most guides admit
- Skipping floating plants, which are the easiest win in a goldfish tank. Goldfish can graze on them without wiping them out, and they grow back faster than rooted options
- Recommending delicate plants for comet goldfish. Comets are fast, aggressive grazers that will shred anything soft within days
Live Plant Alternatives

Not willing to fight the goldfish-plant battle? Fair enough. Here’s what actually works as an alternative.

Silk Plants

If you can’t find a goldfish-proof plant, silk plants are the honest answer. They look decent, goldfish can’t destroy them, and they won’t shred the fins of fancy goldfish the way plastic plants can. The plastic plants with sharp edges are a real problem for goldfish with flowing fins. Stick with silk.

The tradeoff: silk plants contribute nothing to water quality. In a goldfish tank, that matters. Without live plants absorbing nitrates, you need more frequent water changes. That’s the deal.

Great For Delicate Fins!

Marina Naturals Plants

Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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Bare Tanks and Hardscape

Some goldfish keepers go fully bare-bottom with only rocks and driftwood. It’s a legitimate approach. Easier to clean, nothing to uproot, and goldfish don’t care. You can still grow anubias or java fern attached to the driftwood (they don’t need substrate). A good piece of driftwood with anubias attached looks sharp and requires zero ongoing plant care beyond occasional algae wipe-downs.

Editor’s Choice

Current USA Black Manzanita

This is an artificial Manzanita branch that is designed by aquascapers. A worry free way of creating a natural looking aquascape!

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Live Plants vs. Fake Plants: What’s Actually Better for Goldfish?

This isn’t a close call in most goldfish setups. Live plants win on water quality. Nitrate absorption and oxygen production are real benefits in a tank that produces as much waste as a goldfish tank does. The trade-off is maintenance and plant losses.

Live Plants

Pros
- Removes nitrates from the water
- Provides oxygen
- Entertainment and enrichment for goldfish
- Contributes to a healthier diet (goldfish that graze on plants are healthier)
- Looks natural
Cons
- Most rooted plants will be uprooted repeatedly
- Soft-leafed species will be eaten quickly
- Slow-growing plants can be destroyed before they recover
Fake Plants

Pros
- Goldfish can’t destroy them
- No plant maintenance
- Provide shelter and visual interest
Cons
- Zero water quality benefit: nitrates keep climbing
- Plastic plants with sharp edges are a fin injury risk for fancy goldfish
- Algae builds up on them the same as live plants, without the self-cleaning growth of real plants
FAQ

Do goldfish eat all aquarium plants?

Goldfish will eat most soft-leafed aquarium plants. The ones that survive are those with thick, tough, or unpalatable leaves (java fern, anubias), those that grow faster than goldfish can eat them (elodea, water sprite), or those with a structure goldfish don’t find appealing (marimo moss balls). No plant is completely safe. Some are just more likely to survive than others.

Do goldfish need plants in their tank?

No, goldfish don’t require plants to survive. But live plants genuinely help in a goldfish tank: they absorb nitrates (a constant problem with messy goldfish), release oxygen, and provide enrichment. If you can make it work with the right plant species, your tank maintenance schedule gets easier. Without plants, expect more frequent water changes.

What are the best plants for a goldfish tank?

Java fern is my top pick: thick leaves goldfish won’t eat, attaches to hardscape, no substrate needed. Anubias is a close second for the same reasons. Floating plants like water sprite and elodea work because they grow faster than goldfish can consume them. Marimo moss balls are the easiest option with almost no maintenance. Avoid soft-stemmed tropical plants.

Can comet goldfish be kept with live plants?

It’s very difficult. Comets are faster and more aggressive feeders than fancy goldfish. They’ll destroy most plants quickly. If you want to try, stick to floating plants only. They’re the hardest for comets to completely wipe out. Anything rooted or attached to hardscape is fair game. Most comet goldfish keepers end up with silk plants or bare hardscape setups for good reason.

What temperature do goldfish plants need?

Goldfish prefer 65-72°F (18-22°C), which is cooler than most tropical aquarium plants need. Java fern, anubias, java moss, marimo moss balls, elodea, and water sprite all tolerate or prefer cooler temperatures. Avoid plants labeled as “tropical” or those that need a heater to thrive. They’ll struggle in a proper goldfish setup.

Final Thoughts

Here’s the reality of goldfish and plants: you’re not creating a planted aquarium in the traditional sense. You’re finding a few species tough enough, fast-growing enough, or unpalatable enough to coexist with fish that treat everything green as a potential meal. That’s a different mindset than planted tank keeping, and accepting it upfront saves a lot of frustration and money.

Java fern attached to a rock. A clump of anubias on driftwood. Some floating water sprite or elodea for the goldfish to graze on. That’s a realistic planted goldfish tank. It won’t look like an Iwagumi layout, and it’s not supposed to.

Goldfish don’t live in your planted tank. They live in theirs. Build it around what they are, not what you wish they were.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
December 5, 2021
15 Types of Tangs: The Reef Keeper’s Guide to Saltwater Surgeonfish
Tangs need large tanks, strong flow, and constant grazing opportunity. Every species on this list requires a minimum of 75 gallons and most need 125 or more.

If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

If your tank is under 75 gallons, tangs are not an option. There are no exceptions.

How Many Species Of Tangs Are There?

There are many species of tang available in the aquarium hobby but even more exist in the wild, amounting to almost 90 known species. Most of these species originate from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific, where they travel from reef to reef searching for algae to graze on.

These fish may also be known as surgeonfish due to the scalpel-like spine located at the base of their tails which is capable of inflicting some serious injury to predators. Some tangs are able to excrete venom from this scalpel while others are poisonous to ingest.

What Is The Rarest Tang?

As of 2020, one of the rarest tangs available in the aquarium hobby was an Anubis hybrid. This fish is a mixture of purple tang and scopas tang to create a bright yellow-bodied fish with a spectacularly dark overlay of intricate patterning.

Aside from morphs, some of the most desired species are gem tangs and black tangs.

Requirements And Temperament

Tangs aren’t the hardiest of fish, but luckily, they’re not the most delicate either. With so many types of tangs to choose from, each list of requirements will be unique to the species.

In general, most tang species are more susceptible to disease than other standard aquarium fish. That being said, they can quickly bounce back to full health given the right attention and care. To keep your tang from getting sick, always allow at least a two-week quarantine period (I recommend longer) before adding it to your main display.

This display should be at least 70 gallons for smaller, less active types of tangs. Otherwise, these are very active fish that need both open swimming space and rockwork to graze on algae. They is kept at standard saltwater aquarium parameters:
- pH: 8.0-8.4
- Alkalinity: 8.0-12.0
- Salinity: 1.020-1.025
- Temperature: 72-82° F
Are They Aggressive?

More than likely, your tang will be aggressive. They are labeled as semi-aggressive saltwater fish, though they definitely have the ability to injure and kill other fish especially those that is similar in appearance.

Some types of tangs, like yellow tangs, are particularly known for beating up other fish for no reason at all. To help prevent this from happening in your own aquarium, it’s best to introduce a school of tangs together at once; it should be noted that aggression can and probably will happen in these social groups as the bigger and stronger fish weed out the weakest ones.

It is also recommended to add tangs as the last addition to the overall stocking list. This will allow other fish to establish a territory that they feel comfortable defending until your tang comes and tries to claim it as its own.

Though most aggressive tangs is dealt with, some hobbyists have had to rehome their pet fish because nothing was working to diffuse the behavior. Check out the video above from Reef Nerd for a good overview on dealing with aggression.

One of the best rules of thumb is to mix different sub-species of Tangs. Because they look different, they tend to not display as much aggression to tangs of the same species. I’ll explain the main species a bit later in the post.

Are They Easy To Keep?

In general, yes tangs are easy saltwater fish. As mentioned before, they is a little difficult to acclimate to the tank but will thrive if conditions are met.

Apart from possible aggression, one of the challenges to keeping tangs is keeping them fed. In established coral reefs, they will get most of their herbivorous needs from the rockwork. However, this will need to be supplemented with pieces of dried algae, algae flakes, algae wafers, and a high-quality marine flake or pellet.

This specialized diet is an additional cost but is necessary for the long-term success of the fish.

Types – The 4 Different Species

Tangs are broken down into 4 main species in our hobby. Each has different characteristics. They are:
- Zebrasoma
- Ctenchaetus
- Acanthurus
- Naso
Zebrasoma spp.

The Zebrasoma genus contains one of the most popular species of tang, the yellow tang.

These fish are categorized by their compact, flattened bodies and sail-like fins. They are some of the most desirable for the home reef system.

Ctenochaetus spp.

Ctenochaetus tangs are pretty easy to recognize from Zebrasoma species. These tangs have a more elongated body, with a curved dorsal fin and truncated tail.

Fish from this genus don’t tend to be as popular as those in Zebrasoma, but this group contains some recognizable faces like kole tangs. Some fish in this genus are also known as bristletooth tangs due to the teeth they use to scrape away algae from rocks.

Acanthurus spp. & Paracanthurus spp.

The Acanthurus genus has some of the less popular species while Paracanthurus has only one very popular species, the Dory fish.

These fish have wide, streamlined bodies for traveling long distances. In general, members of these genera grow to be considerably larger than Zebrasoma and Ctenochaetus.

Naso spp.

The Naso genus has some interesting fish in terms of color, shape, and body ornaments. These fish also have a very streamlined, yet squashed appearance to them. They can grow to considerable sizes, making most species in this genus unattainable for the average hobbyist.

15 Different Species (With Pictures)

In order to understand the many different kinds of tang available in the aquarium hobby, we’ve compiled a list of the most popular species by genus. Check out the video below from our YouTube Channel. We go over in more detail in the blog post below:

1. Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens
- Size: 8″
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Yes
The yellow tang is an unmistakenly vibrant yellow. These fish grow to be about 8 inches and need a minimum tank size of 125 gallons with intricate rockwork for grazing on algae and for free swimming room.

Yellow tangs is kept in schools in large systems, but they have also been known to be aggressive to their own species as well as to similar-looking species.

Yellow tangs have a very large native range, primarily throughout the Pacific Ocean though they have been documented off the coast of Florida as well.

2. Purple (Zebrasoma xanthurum)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma xanthurum
- Size: 10″
- Origin: Red Sea
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Yes
The purple tang has become a very desirable species over the past few years, reflecting on its market price. These western Indian Ocean fish are a beautiful velvety purple-blue with accented yellow tail fin; upon closer observation, some darker horizontal lineations are also apparent across the body.

Purple tangs can grow to be slightly larger than yellow tangs, reaching a maximum size of about 10 inches. They is safely kept with yellow tangs in a 125 gallon aquarium, though there may be some aggression from time to time.

3. Gem (Zebrasoma gemmatum)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma gemmatum
- Size: 9″
- Origin: Madagascar
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
Gem tangs, also known as spotted tangs, have a black body sparkled with small white dots and a flashy yellow tail, making for a jewel of the tank. Unfortunately, these fish are pretty difficult to come across and their extreme appearance can make them absurdly priced.

Otherwise, these fish require the same husbandry as both the purple and yellow tangs. Some hobbyists like to keep them in slightly larger tanks as they reach a mature size of 9 inches.

In the western Indian Ocean, these fish is very territorial and often lead completely solitary lives.

4. Sailfin (Zebrasoma desjardini)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma desjardini
- Size: 16″
- Origin: Indian Ocean and Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The sailfin tang is one of the largest tangs available within the Zebrasoma genus, reaching impressive lengths of almost a foot and a half, plus extra height for their tall sail fins. They is found from the eastern Indian Ocean to the Pacific Ocean.

The sailfin tang is aptly named as the dorsal and anal fins are greatly extended. These fish have simple brown, yellow, and white vertical stripes across their body with yellow fraying across their top and bottom fins.

Sailfin tangs are less aggressive than other tangs on this list, but they can still easily beat up similar-looking fish and other tangs. Because of their mature size, it is best to keep these fish in aquariums over 180 gallons.

5. Scopas (Zebrasoma scopas)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma scopas
- Size: 12″
- Origin: Indo Pacific
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
Scopas tangs are relatively plain in color with a half-light brown and dark black body, but upon closer inspection, have small iridescent spots all along their sides. These colors will change from their juvenile stage to adulthood, and can even darken or lighten due to stress or disease.

Though not as colorful, scopas tangs have nearly the same personality as yellow tangs. They can get significantly larger and max out at one foot, though this is uncommon in the aquarium hobby. Because of their adult size, potential aggression, activity levels, and herbivorous diet, this tang species does best in a 125 gallon or more aquarium.

They can regularly be seen in groups of 20 or more in the wild from the east coast of Africa to the western portions of the Indo-Pacific.

6. Black (Zebrasoma rostratum)
- Species Type – Zebrasoma
- Scientific Name: Zebrasoma rostratum
- Size: 9″
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
Even more devoid of color, the black tang makes a statement in its simplicity. These fish are silky black, with a sometimes lighter brown face; the scalpel at the base of the tail becomes extremely visible (as well as some unlucky external parasites, like ich). They are sometimes referred to as longnose surgeonfish due to their extended beak.

Surprisingly, black tangs are naturally occurring and originate from the eastern central Pacific Ocean, near the Marquesas Islands and Tuamoto Islands.

Black tangs can vary in aggression. It is best to give these 9-inch fish at least 180 gallons and it is even better if they’re the only tang in the tank and added last.

7. Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus)
- Species Type – Ctenochaetus
- Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus strigosus
- Size: 7″
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 70 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The kole tang is an attractive fish with several different common names including kole yellow eye tang, spotted surgeonfish, and bristletoothed tang. These fish have a brilliant yellow ring around their eyes and delicate stripes down their brown body. At full size, they can grow to be 7 inches.

Kole tangs are also named after their incredible ability to scrape away large amounts of algae from hard surfaces with their specialized teeth. In their native waters, these fish have been observed cleaning sea turtle shells throughout the eastern Central Pacific, even going as far as setting up stations for algae-covered visitors. In general, they are a solitary species.

These are one of the less demanding species of tang in regards to size, though they can still be aggressive to similar species. At least 70 gallons is recommended with a heavy herbivore diet.

8. Tomini (Ctenochaetus tominiensis)
- Species Type – Ctenochaetus
- Scientific Name: Ctenochaetus tominiensis
- Size: 6″
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 70 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
Tomini tangs are probably one of the least tang-looking fish on this list. They have incredibly slender brown bodies with yellow-tipped fins and a white tail fin, giving the appearance that they’re another unrelated species.

These fish are a small species of tang, growing to about 6 inches. They are native to the western central Pacific Ocean. While small, they are still advantageous herbivores capable of scraping algae off of most hard surfaces; they occur by themselves or in very small groups.

Due to their activity in the aquarium and green diet, they need a minimum tank size of at least 70 gallons.

9. Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus)
- Species Type – Paracanthurus
- Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
- Size: 12″
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Yes
The Hippo Tang goes by many names, including blue tang, hepatus tang, regal tang, and most of all, the Dory fish. These Indo-Pacific schooling fish are a brilliant blue with yellow pectoral fins and tail fin. For now, they are the only described species within this genus.

Blue tangs can grow to be a foot long and need 180 gallons at full size, though many hobbyists have successfully kept them in 125 gallons and up. Sadly, their fame has led to many poor conditions within the aquarium hobby. These fish are relatively hardy once established, but they can very easily succumb to ich and other illnesses when first introduced into the aquarium.

The biggest problem is that blue tangs are sold when they are only a couple of inches long, making it seem like they can fit into very small aquariums. Though they’re not the most affordable fish, many inexperienced hobbyists take on the challenge of raising a small blue tang. Within a year, these fish experience exponential growth and quickly become cramped on space.

At this point, they may injure themselves due to stress or they’re returned back to the aquarium store.

10. Powder Blue (Acanthurus leucosternon)
- Species Type – Acanthurus
- Scientific Name: Acanthurus leucosternon
- Size: 9″
- Origin: Indian Ocean
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The powder blue tang is a personal favorite. These fish are a delicate blue with black masking, yellow dorsal fin, and other whitish-blue fins. They can grow to be 9 inches long and require a 125 gallon aquarium.

Powder blue tangs are native to the Indian Ocean. There, they are found alone or in very large feeding groups; in the aquarium, they are best as the only powder species in the aquarium, excluding powder brown tangs as well.

11. Powder Brown (Acanthurus japonicus)
- Species Type – Acanthurus
- Scientific Name: Acanthurus japonicus
- Size: 8″
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The powder brown tang is very similar to the powder blue tang in appearance and behavior. These fish grow slightly smaller, reaching about 8 inches, but still need the full 125 gallons for openly swimming and grazing.

These fish are simple, yet complex in appearance. They have a mainly light brown body outlined in yellow, with margined dark fins and a bright tail fin. The dorsal fin has a streak of orange, contrasting with the rest of the body.

Powder brown tangs originate from the Indo-West Pacific Ocean around the Philippines and Ryukyu Islands. They are more often found in groups than powder blue tangs but still do best as the only powder tang in the tank.

12. Clown (Acanthurus lineatus)
- Species Type – Acanthurus
- Scientific Name: Acanthurus lineatus
- Size: 15″
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 250 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The clown tang is another one of the least-looking tang species on this list, but undoubtedly one of the most colorful. As their name suggests, these fish have alternating yellow, black, and blue stripes with an untouched white underbelly. Their mature size is about a foot and three inches.

These fish swim in schools around shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Though their diet is mainly made up of green, they do like to munch on meaty crustaceans every now and then.

For best results, clown tangs need at least 250 gallons to be kept in captivity.

13. Sohal (Acanthurus sohal)
- Species Type – Acanthurus
- Scientific Name: Acanthurus sohal
- Size: 16″
- Origin: Red Sea
- Tank Size: 250 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
The sohal tang is similar to the clown tang, just slightly less colorful. Instead of yellow stripes, these fish stick the basic alternating blacks and whites with some blue highlights. They have an attractive yellow tail fin for a needed pop of color. Sohal tangs grow to be about the same size as clown tangs as well and need a 250 gallon tank.

Interestingly, sohal tangs have a very limited natural range, occurring mainly in the Red Sea but extending to the Persian Gulf as well. There, they are pretty territorial and aggressive towards each other.

14. Naso (Naso lituratus)
- Species Type – Naso
- Scientific Name: Naso lituratus
- Size: 18″
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
Naso tangs are a favorite in the hobby, though importation is currently limited; trading Hawaiin specimens is highly regulated but others may be collected from farther out in the Indo-Pacific. There, they occur in small groups.

These fish have a very unique appearance with a smooth gradient from grey to yellowish-orange across their body. They can grow to be nearly two feet long, but rarely reach those sizes in captivity. Still, they need 180 gallons to comfortably swim and graze.

15. Unicorn (Naso brevirostris, Naso unicornis)
- Species Type – Naso
- Scientific Name: Naso brevirostris
- Size: 24″
- Origin: Indo-Pacific
- Tank Size: 360 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: No
There are two main species of unicorn you are likely to come across in the aquarium hobby: the bluespine unicorn tang (Naso unicornis) and the blue/short-nosed unicorn tang (Naso brevirostris). Both these fish have a silvery body and unmistakable horn that grows from the front of their face once they have reached about 6 inches in length.

The Indo-Pacific bluespine unicorn tang can grow to an impressive 2 feet and are recognizable by the bright blue margin on their fins. Due to their size, they should only be kept in public aquariums or in 300+ gallon home setups.

The blue/short-nosed unicorn tang originates from the Indo-Pacific and eastern central Pacific, with many individuals coming from Hawaii. This unicorn’s horn is slightly broader than that of the bluespine. These fish can also grow to be 2 feet long and need professional aquarium setups.

Which Is The Best?

Tangs are beautiful fish and you’ll probably want to get as many as you can to squeeze into your tank. Unfortunately, that isn’t possible unless you have a very large system. Instead, you will need to settle for one or two at the most.

But which tang will be right for your reef tank?

This largely depends on the size of the aquarium and the temperament of the other fish. A larger aquarium will allow for some of the bigger and more active species of tang while a smaller aquarium will greatly limit your choices. The aggression of other fish as well as of the tang that you want to add will also need to be considered.

It’s also worth mentioning that not all tangs are available or affordable for the common hobbyist. Some of these fish need to be specially ordered and trading bans can suddenly cut off supply.

Importation

Though aquaculture has come very far in recent years, a large portion of the fish available in the aquarium hobby is wild-caught. In some cases, these fish originate from utterly unique and delicate ecosystems that need to be preserved. This is the case for some Hawaiin tang species, like yellow tangs and naso tangs.

Early in 2021, Hawaii’s Department of Land and Natural Resources stated that harvesting permits could not be renewed and existing ones were no longer valid¹. This is surely a valiant effort for preserving natural ecosystems, but unfortunately, has had a detrimental effect on the availability of some Hawaiin species.

Luckily though, most of these species is found throughout other regions of the Indo-Pacific and might even be available as aquacultured. Currently, the main three tangs that are commercially tank bred are the Purple, Yellow, and Hippo Tang.

The Tang Police

When researching information about tangs, you’re bound to come across a term: the tang police. The tang police have been around since tangs were introduced into the hobby, and rightfully so.

As mentioned before, many tangs end up in unideal conditions. These are big, active fish that need big, open aquariums to swim and graze. Too often, tangs are sold as juveniles at very small sizes, making it easy to believe that they can comfortably fit into a smaller tank. This simply isn’t true as tangs can grow several inches in just a few months.

The tang police refer to members of the aquarium hobby, especially those participating in online communities, who insist on informing other hobbyists about proper tang requirements and prevent poor conditions from happening. There is some negativity that surrounds the title as many inexperienced hobbyists don’t believe the necessary requirements are entirely true and try to prove them wrong, but eventually fail.

If for anything, a lot is learned from the tang police. After all, we are trying to make our fish the happiest and healthiest that they can possibly be.

Final Thoughts

Kole tangs, blue tangs, naso tangs, purple tangs. There are so many tangs to choose from and each individual has their own behavior and specific needs.

For many years, these fish have been shoved into nano tanks without an established source of algae, leaving the fish to quickly outgrow their surroundings and starve. But given the proper care and compatibility, any tang will quickly become the showpiece of the tank.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
November 30, 2021
12 Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Tanks – What Actually Works
Every aquarium gets algae. That’s not the problem. The problem is expecting the wrong animal to solve it, or adding algae eaters before your tank is ready for them. After 25 years in the hobby and time running fish stores, I can tell you the mistakes here are predictable and expensive: hobbyists buy a common pleco for a 20-gallon, or stock a dozen otos into a brand-new tank, and then wonder why nothing is working. This guide cuts through the generic advice and tells you what actually works, for which algae, and in which tanks.

An algae eater cannot replace maintenance. It supplements it.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

I’ve kept bristlenose plecos in almost every tank I’ve set up over the years, and they’re my first call for most community tanks. Nerite snails are my go-to for planted tanks where I don’t want any biological pressure on plants. Amano shrimp I’ve used extensively in high-tech planted setups where I needed something relentless on hair and brush algae. What I’ve learned from 25 years and from managing fish stores is this: match the animal to the algae type and the tank size, and you’ll get results. Pick randomly and you’ll just have more mouths to feed.

What Is Algae?

Algae are aquatic organisms that photosynthesize using light, water, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. They grow in every aquarium, and that’s not inherently a bad thing. In small amounts, algae is a normal part of a healthy ecosystem. But when it takes over, it’s telling you something is out of balance.

You can’t eliminate algae from a tank. You can control it. Understanding what type you’re dealing with determines which animal can actually help.

Know Your Algae: Common Types

If you have a freshwater aquarium, you’ve likely seen several types of algae already. Here’s what causes them and which algae eaters target each type.

True Types

These are the common algae types you’ll actually deal with. Most respond to a combination of husbandry adjustments and the right biological control.

Green Water

Green water is caused by free-floating phytoplankton in the water column. It turns the water pea-soup green. The fish are usually fine, but visibility tanks down to zero quickly. An aquarium UV sterilizer clears it faster than any algae eater. No animal eats suspended algae cells. This one is purely a husbandry fix.

Green Spot Algae (GSA)

Small, circular green patches on glass and hardscape. Hard to remove once established. Caused by low phosphates or CO2 in planted aquariums. Nerite snails are one of the few animals that will actually graze on green spot algae consistently.

Green Dust Algae (GDA)

A soft, even green film on the glass. Easy to wipe off. It typically appears after major tank changes like rearranging hardscape or removing plants, and clears up on its own within a few weeks. Most soft algae eaters will graze on it willingly.

Green Fuzz (Oedogonium)

Filamentous algae that develops in tanks with a nutrient imbalance. In fish-only tanks it usually means too many nutrients; in planted tanks, not enough. Amano shrimp work on early outbreaks.

Green Beard / Green Brush Algae (GBA)

Common in both planted and fish-only tanks. Doesn’t look terrible, but it signals a poor balance of nutrients and light. Root cause fix first, then add biological control.

Black Brush Algae / Black Beard Algae (BBA)

This is the one hobbyists dread. BBA is tough to remove and almost nothing eats it reliably. Siamese algae eaters and Amano shrimp will make a dent on early-stage black beard algae, but if it’s established, you’re scrubbing. Spot dosing with APT Fix is more effective than adding more animals.

Blanket Weed (Cladophora)

Dense, mat-forming algae that covers surfaces including live plants. Amano shrimp and cherry shrimp will help, but they won’t eliminate an established outbreak. High nutrient levels are the root cause.

Green Thread Algae

Filamentous algae common in cycling tanks. In mature tanks, it signals an imbalance of light, CO2, and nutrients. Many algae eaters will graze on it, but fixing the cause stops it from coming back.

Water Silk (Spirogyra)

Slippery, fast-spreading filamentous algae. Happens when light and nutrients are out of balance, especially in planted tanks with poor plant growth. Easier to prevent than cure. Amano shrimp help on early growth.

Hair Algae (Rhizoclonium)

Hair algae grows in long, fine strands, often rooted into aquatic plants. Amano shrimp are relentless on it. Many other algae eaters will pick at it. Low water flow and nutrient imbalances drive outbreaks.

Staghorn Algae (Compsopogon sp.)

Gray, branching algae that looks like deer antlers. Grows on hardscape and plant leaves. Signs of a nutrient imbalance or CO2 deficiency. Siamese algae eaters will graze on it in early stages.

Other Types and Related Issues

These are conditions sometimes mistaken for algae. Worth knowing the difference because algae eaters won’t help with most of them.

Brown Algae (Diatoms)

Diatoms are the brown film that coats everything in a new tank a few weeks after setup. It’s normal, temporary, and goes away on its own as the tank matures. Otocinclus catfish and nerite snails love diatoms. If it’s persisting in a mature tank, check your silicate levels.

Blue-Green Algae (Cyanobacteria)

Blue-green algae is actually a cyanobacteria, not true algae. It forms slick, smelly patches on substrate, glass, or plants. No algae eater eats it. It’s a water quality and flow problem. Fix the tank, don’t buy animals.

Surface Scum

Biofilm or protein buildup at the water surface. Mollies will actually skim at the surface and help, which is more than most algae eaters can say. A surface skimmer is the definitive fix.

Cloudy Water

Cloudy water in a new tank is a bacterial bloom: normal, temporary, harmless. In a mature tank, it means overfeeding, overstocking, or an inadequate filtration system. No algae eater helps here.

Stained Water (Tannins)

Yellow or brown water is tannins leaching from driftwood. Not algae, not harmful, and not something algae eaters address. It clears on its own in a few weeks, or faster if you pre-boil the wood.

White Fungus

White cottony fungus on new driftwood is harmless biofilm. Some fish and shrimp will pick at it, and it clears up in days or weeks. Fungus on dead fish or rotting food is different: remove those immediately.

12 Best Algae Eaters for Freshwater Tanks

Now that you know what you’re dealing with, here are the animals that will actually help. For each species, I’m including the algae types they target, size, tank requirements, and temperament so you can match them to your tank.
- The type of algae they eat
- Their scientific name
- Difficulty Level
- Temperament
- Adult Size
- Minimum Tank Size
- Origin
- Temperature
- pH
- Whether they’re safe for planted tanks
Check out the video from our YouTube channel for a visual overview, then see the full details below.
How We Ranked These Algae Eaters
1. Actual algae consumption effectiveness (species-specific, not generalist “they eat algae”)
2. Compatibility with community freshwater tanks
3. Tank size requirements relative to what most hobbyists are running
4. Availability at LFS and online suppliers
5. Longevity and feeding sustainability when algae runs low
Add Algae Eaters If…
Good Fit

Your tank is fully cycled and stable

You have soft green algae, diatoms, or hair algae you can’t keep up with manually

You want a biological clean-up crew alongside regular maintenance

Your tank is large enough for the species you’re choosing (check the specs below)

Skip If

Your tank isn’t cycled yet (algae eaters will die or stress out in new tank syndrome)

You’re expecting them to replace water changes and glass cleaning

You have black beard algae or blue-green algae (wrong tool for the job)

Your tank is already at capacity for your filter’s bioload
1. Amano Shrimp

Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!

Amano Shrimp

Best For Planted Tanks!

When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!

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- Target Algae: Hair algae, string algae, brush algae, soft green algae
- Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Japan
- Temperature: 65-78°F (18-26°C)
- pH: 6.5-8
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Named after planted tank pioneer Takashi Amano for good reason: these are the most effective algae-eating shrimp in the hobby. Amano shrimp work almost constantly, grazing hair algae, string algae, and soft green growth with a persistence that no fish matches. I’ve used them in high-tech planted tanks where hair algae would take over within days, and a group of 10 Amanos kept it under control long-term.

Amano shrimps are peaceful and fit tanks too small for algae-eating fish. Keep a group of at least 5, not 1 or 2. A single Amano shrimp barely makes a dent. Ten of them in a planted 20-gallon is a different story entirely.

Mark’s Top Pick

For most freshwater community tanks, the Bristlenose Pleco is my first call as an algae-eating fish. It stays manageable at 5 inches (13 cm), handles most soft green algae and diatoms, won’t destroy your plants, and I’ve kept dozens of them over the years without a single compatibility issue. For planted nano tanks where you can’t fit a pleco, the Amano shrimp in groups of 8 or more is the answer. If you can only pick one algae eater for a community tank under 40 gallons (151 L), make it a Bristlenose.

2. Otocinclus Catfish
- Target Algae: Soft green algae, diatoms, green dust algae
- Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
- Difficulty Level: Moderate (sensitive to water quality)
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
- Origin: South America
- Temperature: 72-79°F (22-26°C)
- pH: 6-7.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
The best nano algae-eating fish in the hobby, full stop. Otos are 100% safe with shrimp, peaceful with every community fish, and remarkably effective at grazing diatoms and soft green algae off glass and plant leaves. The catch: they’re sensitive to water quality, and wild-caught specimens don’t always survive the transport and acclimation process well. Buy from reputable suppliers, acclimate slowly, and add them to a mature, established tank. A group of 6 in a 20-gallon (76 L) planted tank keeps the glass cleaner than anything else that size.

3. Mollies
- Target Algae: Surface scum, hair algae, green fuzz
- Scientific Name: Poecilia spp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: up to 4.5 inches (11 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
- Origin: North and South America
- Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
- pH: 7.5-8.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Mollies are not dedicated algae eaters, but they fill a gap that nothing else covers well: surface scum. They skim the water surface constantly, picking at biofilm and hair algae near the waterline. If your tank gets a protein film on top, a pair of mollies handles it better than any specialized algae eater. Think of them as supplemental clean-up crew, not your primary solution.

4. Horned Nerite Snail

Best Algae Snail

Horned Nerite Snail

Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

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- Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
- Scientific Name: Clithon corona
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- pH: 7-8.2
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Horned Nerite snails are one of the few animals that genuinely scrape green spot algae off glass. Most algae eaters won’t touch it. Nerite snails won’t reproduce in freshwater (they lay eggs but they don’t hatch), won’t eat your plants, and won’t overpopulate. Their unique horned shells also make them an interesting visual addition.

5. Zebra Nerite Snail

Zebra Nerite

Nerite snails are one of the best algae eating snails you can buy. Plant safe and do not reproduce in fresh water!

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- Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
- Scientific Name: Neritina natalensis
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Southern and Eastern Africa
- Temperature: 65-85°F (18-29°C)
- pH: 6.5-8.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Zebra nerite snails are the most widely available nerite variety and one of the best choices for nano tanks. They live for years, don’t reproduce in freshwater, and don’t touch live plants. The one thing they will do is lay small white eggs on glass and hardscape. The eggs don’t hatch and don’t come off easily: just something to know before you buy. Keep harder water to protect their shells.

6. Tiger Nerite Snail

Tiger Nerite Snails

These Nerite Snails will eat algae, are plant safe, and do not reproduce in your aquarium!

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- Target Algae: Green spot algae, green dust algae, diatoms
- Scientific Name: Vittina semiconica
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Indonesia
- Temperature: 65-85°F (18-29°C)
- pH: 6.5-8.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Tiger nerite snails have the same excellent algae-grazing behavior as the zebra variety, with black patterning on a golden orange shell instead of stripes. Same care requirements, same plant safety, same no-reproduction-in-freshwater benefit. If you’re choosing between nerite varieties, this is purely an aesthetic decision.

7. Mystery Snail
- Target Algae: Hair algae, soft green algae, decaying plant material
- Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Bolivia, Brazil, Paraguay, Peru
- Temperature: 68-82°F (20-28°C)
- pH: 7.6-8.4
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Mystery snails are the big, visible clean-up crew option. They eat hair algae, graze on decaying plant material, and clean up uneaten food. They don’t eat live plants, which is a common concern with large snails. Mystery snails can reproduce in freshwater, but they’re manageable: they lay clutches above the waterline, so you can remove eggs easily before they hatch if you don’t want a population explosion.

8. Siamese Algae Eater
- Target Algae: Filamentous green algae, black brush algae (BBA)
- Scientific Name: Crossocheilus langei
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 7 inches (18 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 68-79°F (20-26°C)
- pH: 6-7.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
The Siamese algae eater is one of the few fish that will actually graze on black brush algae, and for that reason alone it earns a spot on this list. Be careful when buying: the very similar-looking Chinese algae eater grows much larger and becomes territorial and aggressive as it matures. The flying fox is another lookalike. Learn to ID the real Siamese algae eater before you buy.

9. Freshwater Goby (Stiphodon)
- Target Algae: Soft green algae, diatoms, blue-green algae, black brush algae
- Scientific Name: Stiphodon spp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 72-75°F (22-24°C)
- pH: 6.5-7.5
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Stiphodon gobies are underrated. They’re visually striking (especially the cobalt blue varieties), genuinely effective algae grazers on glass and hardscape, and peaceful with most community fish. Keep them out of tanks with large predators. They need a mature tank with established algae growth to stay healthy long-term.

10. Bristlenose Pleco
- Target Algae: Soft green algae, green spot algae, diatoms, white fungus on driftwood
- Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful with fish, territorial with other plecos
- Adult Size: 5 inches (13 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
- Origin: South America
- Temperature: 73-81°F (23-27°C)
- pH: 5.8-7.2
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Bristlenose plecos are workhorses. They graze constantly, handle most soft green algae and green spot algae reliably, won’t destroy your plants, and stay at a manageable 5 inches (13 cm) unlike the common pleco that outgrows almost every home aquarium. Keep only one: adults are territorial with each other. Give them a cave or two, supplement with algae wafers when the tank is clean, and they’ll reward you with decades of service.

11. Glass Shrimp (Ghost Shrimp)
- Target Algae: Hair algae, biofilm, soft algae
- Scientific Name: Palaemonetes spp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: North America
- Temperature: 65-82°F (18-28°C)
- pH: 7-8
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Ghost shrimp won’t be your primary algae solution, but they’re one of the best value clean-up crew options available. They graze biofilm and pick at hair algae, eat uneaten food, and cost almost nothing. They’re also fascinating to watch, since the transparent body lets you see everything they’re doing internally. Keep them away from any fish large enough to treat them as a snack.

12. Cherry Shrimp

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Cherry Shrimp

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- Target Algae: Soft green algae, diatoms, biofilm
- Scientific Name: Neocaridina heteropoda
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
- Origin: Taiwan
- Temperature: 65-85°F (18-29°C)
- pH: 6.5-8
- Planted Tanks: Yes
Cherry shrimp graze on biofilm and soft algae constantly, and their bright red color makes them a visual asset rather than just a utility animal. They work best in tanks where the fish won’t eat them: nano fish, peaceful community tanks, and shrimp-only setups. Cherry shrimp will breed in freshwater, so a population self-sustains over time. For a 10-gallon (38 L) planted tank with nano fish, they’re ideal.

When To Introduce Them

Your aquarium must be fully cycled before adding algae eaters. This is the rule beginners break most often. New tanks go through ammonia and nitrite spikes that are fine for the cycle but lethal for sensitive species like otocinclus. The algae that grows during cycling will self-correct as the tank matures. Adding animals too early solves nothing and kills livestock.

Also watch your numbers. If you stock too many algae eaters and they clean the tank too thoroughly, there’s nothing left for them to eat. You’ll need to supplement with spirulina wafers, blanched zucchini, or algae wafers to keep them fed.

Nano Tanks

Nano tanks (under 10 gallons / 38 L) are too small for most algae-eating fish. Your biological control options here are invertebrates: snails and shrimp. Good options include:
- Rabbit snail
- Nerite snails
- Mystery snail
- Amano shrimp
- Cherry shrimp
- Bamboo shrimp
- Ghost shrimp
What To Feed Them

This is the part most guides skip. Algae eaters need supplemental feeding, especially in clean or established tanks where natural algae is limited. If your bristlenose or otos run out of algae, they’ll starve. Feed them regularly:
- Spirulina tablets
- Algae wafers
- Blanched zucchini or cucumber
- Algae grown on pebbles (pull a rock from a separate container with algae on it)
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Species like mollies are part-time algae eaters that need a regular food supply regardless. Reducing how much you feed other fish encourages them to graze more, but they still need a consistent diet.

What To Do If You Still Have Algae

Algae eaters are one part of algae management, not the whole solution. If outbreaks keep coming back after adding animals, the tank is still out of balance. Here are the adjustments that actually work:

1. Grow Live Plants

Fast-growing plants like Vallisneria out-compete algae for nutrients. Healthy plant growth starves algae of what it needs to spread.

2. Avoid Introducing It To Your Tank

Algae hitchhikes in on plants. Tissue culture plants from sources like Buceplant.com are grown under sterile conditions and arrive algae-free.

3. Reduce Lighting

Algae thrives under excessive light. Cut your photoperiod to 8-10 hours, or reduce intensity if you don’t have a planted tank requiring high light. For high-tech planted tanks, the balance is light, CO2, and fertilizers: if any leg of that triangle is off, algae wins.

4. Feed Less

Uneaten food is algae fuel. Feed only what your fish consume in two to three minutes. If there’s food left on the substrate after that, you’re overfeeding.

5. Use a Targeted Treatment

For persistent BBA, hair algae, or fuzz algae in a planted tank, APT Fix is my recommendation for spot dosing. It’s safe for plants and livestock and effective on the algae types that biological control struggles with.

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6. Don’t Overstock

More fish means more waste, more nutrients in the water, and more algae. Keep stocking below your filter’s capacity, not at or above it.

7. Upgrade Your Filtration

Persistent water quality issues often trace back to under-filtration. A quality canister filter sized for your tank is one of the best long-term investments you can make for algae management.

8. Regular Maintenance

Algae eaters supplement maintenance. They don’t replace it. Weekly water changes, gravel vacuuming, and glass cleaning are still required. Use a test kit to monitor water parameters regularly.

Where To Buy Them

Most of the species on this list are available through reputable online retailers. I recommend checking Flip Aquatics first. Their livestock is well-cared for and they stock most of the algae eaters and invertebrates listed here. For shrimp in particular, healthy stock from a good source makes a real difference in long-term survival.
What Most Algae Eater Lists Get Wrong
- Recommending the common pleco (Pterygoplichthys) for average home tanks. These fish hit 18 inches (46 cm) or more and belong in large public displays, not a 55-gallon living room tank. The bristlenose pleco is the right call for most hobbyists.
- Overstating how much work algae eaters do. They help. They don’t clean the tank for you. If your maintenance habits are poor, adding a pleco and a handful of nerites won’t fix the underlying problem.
- Ignoring the feeding requirement. When algae is gone, your animals still need food. Articles that don’t mention supplemental feeding are setting people up to starve their algae eaters.
- Treating all algae as the same. A nerite snail does nothing for BBA. An otocinclus does nothing for hair algae in the water column. Match the animal to the algae type or you’ve wasted money.
FAQs

Do snails eat algae?

Most aquarium snails eat algae and leftover fish food. Nerite snails (horned, zebra, tiger) are the best choices because they won’t reproduce in freshwater and won’t eat live plants. Mystery snails and rabbit snails are also good options. Malaysian trumpet snails and ramshorn snails eat algae too, but they breed out of control in most community tanks.

What fish keeps a freshwater tank the cleanest?

For most freshwater community tanks, the bristlenose pleco and otocinclus catfish are the most effective algae-eating fish. Bristlenose plecos handle green spot algae and harder growth; otos handle soft green algae and diatoms with exceptional precision. Siamese algae eaters are the go-to for black brush algae. No single fish handles all algae types equally well.

Should I use algae-removing products or live algae eaters?

Both have a place. Biological control through live algae eaters is sustainable and works continuously. Chemical treatments like APT Fix are better for targeted outbreaks of tough algae like BBA where animals aren’t effective. For ongoing management, algae eaters plus good husbandry beats any product long-term.

Why does my fish tank keep turning green?

Green water (not green glass algae) is caused by free-floating algae cells in the water column, usually triggered by too much light or a nutrient spike. A UV sterilizer clears it. For green growth on glass and surfaces, the most common causes are too much light, too many nutrients from overfeeding, or insufficient plant competition. Algae eaters help with the surface growth, but fixing the root cause stops it from coming back.

How big do algae eaters get?

It varies dramatically by species. Shrimp and snails stay under 2 inches (5 cm). Otocinclus catfish reach about 2 inches (5 cm). Bristlenose plecos reach about 5 inches (13 cm). Siamese algae eaters reach 7 inches (18 cm). The common pleco sold in pet stores can reach 18 inches (46 cm) or more and is not appropriate for most home aquariums. Always research the maximum size before buying.

Final Thoughts

The right algae eater for your tank depends on three things: which algae you have, what size tank you’re running, and what fish you’re already keeping. Get those three right and biological algae control works well. Pick randomly, skip the cycling, or expect them to replace maintenance, and you’ll be disappointed. After 25 years I’ve found that the hobbyists who struggle most with algae are the ones who added animals before fixing the underlying cause. The animals work best as the last piece of a balanced tank, not the first attempt to solve a problem.

Choose the right animal for the right algae, and the tank takes care of itself.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide, your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide, your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide, your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
November 29, 2021
How Much Does an Axolotl Cost? Full Breakdown Including Setup, Food, and Ongoing Care
Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

What are axolotls?

Before digging further, let’s give a quick review of what actually axolotls are and how are they different from other salamanders.

Axolotls are amphibians. However, unlike salamanders, they spend most of their lives underwater. They are close relatives of Tiger salamander and range up to a foot in length. (quite a large size for salamanders)

They showcase mottled brown and black colors. However, in some rare and costly varieties, Albino and Leucistic axolotls display a translucent white color with shiny gold flecks and red or pink feathery gills.

How are they different from other salamanders?

Axolotls charm marine experts for their retention of features from the larval stage.

If you’ve seen tadpoles, you know what I’m talking about!

Amphibians; in general, go through a process called metamorphosis. It is a process in which an animal goes through certain developmental changes in the body structure. However, this process doesn’t apply to axolotls.

Axolotls, even in their adulthood retain their larval features including tadpole-like fins and external feathery gills.

One enticing thing about axolotls is that they take their regeneration to the next level. It would surprise you that axolotls cannot only regenerate tissues, but limbs, brains, spines, and even jaws!

How Much Do Axolotls cost?

The average cost of an axolotl doesn’t end with its purchase.

There are several other costs involved; the axolotl tank, accessories, delivery fees, recurring costs, monthly cost, yearly cost, and much more!

So, let’s go budgeting!

The Initial Cost

Axolotls are inexpensive exotic pets with an initial cost of around $30 to $100; that too for basic and juvenile axolotls.

The price, however, varies for exotic or adult axolotls. Depending on the rarity of morph and the health of the axolotl, rare axolotls like piebald axolotl cost around $100.

The adult Golden Albino axolotl costs around $45. Meanwhile, other varieties with exceptional pigmentations would cost you around $300 to $1500.

Shipping

If you’ve ordered your axolotl online through a reputable store, be sure to add a few bucks (say $40 to $60) as a flat rate of the shipping cost for each pet.

The Tank

So, this is where your actual expenses lie. An axolotl needs a larger tank than any other amphibian.

That’s because they spend their whole time underwater and the smallest tank you can accommodate for young axolotls is 10 gallons.

For a mature axolotl tank, a standard 20 gallons aquarium would suffice.

However, it’s not just the tank that counts.

Since your smiling pets would be captive-bred animals, they would need ample lighting and filtration. Some pet stores offer various aquarium kits and ensembles that include LED lighting, filtration device and cartridges, heating devices, and other tank decors.

The overall tank setup would cost you somewhere between $100 to $300 approximately.

Recurring Costs

Lucky for you; axolotls are exclusively captive pets.

And on top of all that, they have exceptional regenerative abilities. It makes it easier to minus the health problems of axolotls and clinical attention.

However, I still recommend visiting the vet once a year to rule out any medical abnormalities in your pet.

Basically, the only recurring cost left is food.

Axolotls enjoy a protein-rich diet including brine shrimp, earthworms, bloodworms. Many novice keepers make the mistake to feed feeder fish and mice to their diet. I strongly discourage live or dead food as it may introduce bacterial and parasitic infections to the tank.

Hence, the annual recurring cost of grown-up axolotls that feed twice weekly is estimated to be around $50.

Medical Care

I have rarely seen an axolotl falling sick and dying of a fatal disease.

However, they are living beings and require regular medical upkeep. As a responsible axolotl owner, you should make a yearly visit to the vet to avoid deadly diseases or aliments.

Factors Affecting the Price of This Pet

No two axolotls are the same. And that applies to their cost as well. There are a number of factors that affect the axolotl price.

Morph Rarity

When it comes to axolotl price, it mostly depends on the rarity of color. There are some varieties that are extremely rare, and hence the fancy price tag. Meanwhile, the common and basic morphs are inexpensive and easily available in pet stores.

Age

Age is also an essential factor in determining the cost of an axolotl. Adult axolotls sell at a higher price than juveniles. That’s because mature axolotls are easy to care for and friendly.

Health Conditions

While visiting the pet store, you may encounter the same morph axolotls selling at a low cost than some others. That is mainly because of their health conditions.

A healthy axolotl would retail at a much higher price than the ones in poor conditions.

I advise inspecting the axolotl before making your valuable purchase. An unhealthy axolotl will most likely be lethargic and unresponsive.

Breeder

The price also varies from breeder to breeder. Some breeders charge higher prices due to their reputation or brand name. Other breeders may charge nominal rates for a basic morph.

Requirements for the Tank

Like I said before, the prices for axolotls vary depending on their pigmentation and health. However, it’s the tank cost that makes the difference.

Along with a larger tank, axolotls require several other essentials to keep them healthy and happy throughout their lives.

I have prepared a thorough list for pet owners to guide through the proper requirements and estimated costs of an axolotl tank.

The Aquarium

Estimated cost: $25 – 100

Happy axolotls are the best.

And what keeps the axolotl happy is a long aquarium around 30 inches in length.

For your convenience, I would suggest a standard 20-gallon long tank for an adult axolotl that provides much room for movement. For the best price, you can consider buying a cheap one used or waiting for a local chain pet store’s dollar per gallon sale.

Also, axolotls prefer dim lights. And so, I encourage placing some type of hide in the aquarium for them to get shade.

Reptile Hide

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Filtration

Estimated Cost: Less than $100 – $150+

You can cut the cost of filtration only if you promise to change the water regularly.

Yes, you can go cheap on filtration for axolotls if you are willing to do more water changes. However, I recommend installing canister filters in axolotl’s water tank.

You might wonder why.

Well, axolotls produce a lot of waste, which means a lot of ammonia. And they are extremely sensitive to poor water conditions. Therefore, installing a high quality filter would be the safest option.

Also, canister filters, although difficult to maintain, provide enough room for biomedia and gentle water flow to keep your pets healthy.

A good-quality canister filter costs less than $100 and lasts much longer than expected. Fluvals would be consider top-tier for a Axolotl tank, but you can do well with a budget canister like a Sun Sun.

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Substrates

Estimated Cost: $15 – $25

You have to be very finicky while choosing the substrate for axolotl.

Since axolotls have delicate skin, the hard or sharp substrate might cause potential injuries to your axolotl. The costs of substrate or aquarium sand should cost you no more than $10 or $15.

Natural Fine Sand

I always recommend natural fine sand substrates for the axolotl aquariums. (with caution, of course)

If you choose natural sand substrates, make sure to avoid Calcium Carbonate sand as it might disrupt the pH levels of the tank.

Also, I recommend stirring the sand once in a while to help prevent the buildup of air gases and bacteria.

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Fine Natural Sand

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Rocks and Gravels

Always remember; the larger the rocks, the better!

Axolotls have delicate mouths, and they suck in their food.

If you use rocks that are too small, your axolotl will suffer from intestinal blockage and experience several health problems.

Also, rocks and gravels should be smooth-edged and rounded. For younger axolotls (under 6 inches/15 cm long), avoid using any rocks or substrate at all.

Lighting

Estimated cost: less than $50

Fun fact: Axolotls do not have eyelids!

And so, strong lighting overwhelms them.

If you want to install lighting sources, always go for LED aquarium lights that are dimmable.

However, the best advice I can give you is to utilize natural lighting. Axolotls do not require lighting, nor does the tank. But, if you have live plants, you can always opt for Planted Tank LED lights that are adjustable.

This way, the tank also doesn’t heat up and water temperature is maintained throughout.

The lighting cost for an axolotl tank should cost you around $50 for a premium-quality, adjustable LED aquarium light.

Water Temperature & Chiller

Estimated Cost: $10 – $15

One thing that makes Axolotls challenging for beginners is their demand for optimal water temperatures.

The ideal water temperature for Axolotls ranges from 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit.

However, in some rare cases, they have adapted to water temperatures as low as 50 degrees Fahrenheit and as high as 72 degrees Fahrenheit.

According to experts, Axolotls show sluggish behavior below 57 degrees Fahrenheit, and higher temperatures might trigger serious diseases. Also, temperature fluctuations is detrimental to your axolotl, as they are sensitive to them.

Therefore, in hotter climates, it is a challenge to maintain water temperature, an aquarium chiller should be installed to ensure water stays cool enough.

A fan costs around $10 and can work exceptionally well in keeping your tank water cool.

Aquarium Cooling Fan

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Even in cooler climates, a heater for an axolotl tank is not needed as the temperatures rarely fall below the their preferred ranges. If needed, the LED lighting or natural source of light would provide enough heat to the tank. Having a lid on the aquarium will also keep heat inside

Decoration

Estimated Cost: Around $50

Axolotls appreciate decorations as much as other aquarium pets.

However, you have to be extra careful with the decors you choose for your smiling pet.

I always suggest live plants for axolotl tank as they like sitting on them. Low light plants like Java fern,, Java Moss, Eludia, Marimo moss ball, and floating plants like Amazon Frogbits, and Water Lettuce are some excellent options for axolotl.

Nevertheless, axolotls do great without live plants. If you want to adorn your tank, feel free to add fake (plastic) plants as they require zero maintenance and lighting.

Additionally, to offer some safe places to hide, you can invest in high-quality hides for the axolotl, such as Cichlid rocks or Ceramic pipes, dragon stones, river rocks. Rock structures are also a great addition to an axolotl aquarium, which costs around $50 each.

You can add absolutely anything, just make sure the edges of objects are not sharp to avoid injuries.

Water De-chlorinator

Estimated cost: $10

Water de-chlorinator is something that your axolotl would thank you for!

Axolotls make a lot of mess in their natural habitat and things are no different in the home aquariums. Therefore, the tap water needs to be de-chlorinated every now and then to make it axolotl-friendly.

I always recommend installing water de-chlorinators in your axolotl tanks.

They are cheap and readily available in the market and cost around $10 or so. I recommend Seachem Prime.

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The Total Costs of Owning This Pet

Now that I’ve covered everything, let’s break all the expenses down for you.

The initial cost of an small axolotl is around $30 to $100, depending upon the breed and variation you opt for.

However, if you buy your axolotl online, it might cost you an additional $40 to $60 due to shipping and morphs (since online sellers tend to have better morphs).

For an adult, you need a large tank of around 20-gallons. This would cost you around $200 to $300 with all the required devices.

Lastly, the complete axolotl aquarium setup would cost you around $150 to $600 minus the food and water therapy.

Also, baby axolotl needs to eat more frequently than adults. But as they grow, they require less feeding and more maintenance.

So, axolotls are amazing pets that are quite inexpensive as compared to other exotic pets. And the total cost you pay or spend on your smiling pals is worth every penny.

FAQS

Do they bite?

Yes, they do. Since axolotls are carnivorous, they bite everything. Axolotls also bite their fellows in the tank if they get too close to each other. However, their bite feels more like a tingling sensation rather than an actual animal bite.

Is it illegal to own one as a pet (Mexican walking fish)?

Yes, it is — in some states.

Axolotls are unfortunately considered critically endangered species. Also, their population in the wild is slowly decreasing. Therefore, in some states like California, Maine, New Jersey, and Virginia have put restrictions to make them illegal.

The California law doesn’t prohibit owning axolotls because they are endangered, but because they pose a serious threat to native wildlife. Hence, it is advised to keep axolotls that are bred and raised in captivity rather than in their natural habitat.

How much does the rarest one cost?

The rare axolotls can cost around $300 to $1500, depending on the morph, age, and overall health conditions.

Some axolotl morphs are extremely rare, which includes Chimera axolotls, mosaic axolotl, Enigma axolotl, Piebald axolotl, Firefly axolotl, and Lavender axolotl.

The Chimera and Mosaic axolotls are only sold through specialized sellers. The Enigma axolotls are worth around $1500.

The piebald axolotl costs around $300. The Firefly and Lavender axolotl cost somewhere between $250 to $115 each.

How much does it cost per month?

The monthly costs of owning an axolotl only include food consumables.
And luckily, their food supplies are much cheaper than any other exotic pet. The diet of axolotl comprises protein-rich food that mostly includes brine shrimp, bloodworms, etc.

Generally, the adult axolotl eats twice or three times a week. So, the monthly expenses of owning an axolotl should not be more than $20 to $30.

Are they good pets?

Axolotls are interesting creatures.

They are hardy, always smiling, easy to look after, and easy to feed.

Just what an axolotl owner needs!

However, they might not be the best fit for novice keepers as there are a few things to consider;
1. Temperature for axolotls should be between 57 to 67 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything more or less than that may put your pet under stress
2. Since they have a sensitive mouth, the substrate or decors used should be of high quality and kept clean
3. They demand clean water filtration. Therefore, a high-quality filter is recommended
Final Thoughts

Now you know what it costs to own an axolotl.

Besides everything, make sure to keep the water clean, and water temperatures maintained for your walking fish to stay healthy and smiling. The price that starts from $30 may touch $600 or so after complete tank setup. So, I believe it’s not much to invest given the joy and how long these animals live.

Got any comments to share? Leave a comment below and let’s get a conversation going!

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
November 18, 2021

Mandarin Goby Care – A Complete Guide

Looking for a full Mandarin Goby care guide? I have you covered today on this beautiful, but tricky to care for fish.

The Mandarin Goby is a small fish with enormous care demands. They are visually unlike anything else in the saltwater hobby, but their nearly exclusive diet of live copepods makes them one of the hardest fish to keep alive long-term. This guide gives you everything you need to know before buying one and what it actually takes to keep one thriving.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

After 25 years in this hobby and time managing fish stores, I’ve seen more mandarin gobies die in the first month than almost any other saltwater species. Not because they’re disease-prone. Because they starve. The pod supply runs out and the fish declines before the owner realizes what’s happening. If your tank isn’t producing or receiving a steady pod supply, this is not your fish yet. Build that foundation first.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Expert

The mandarin goby’s nearly exclusive dependence on live copepods makes it one of the most challenging reef fish in the hobby. Requires a mature, established reef with a thriving pod population, or a dedicated pod culture system. Not suitable for beginners or newly set-up tanks.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Synchiropus splendidus
Common Names	Mandarin goby, mandarinfish, mandarin dragonet, green mandarin
Family	Callionymidae (Dragonets)
Origin	Western Pacific Ocean
Diet	Carnivore (copepods and small invertebrates)
Colors	Blues, greens, oranges, reds
Care Level	Difficult to Expert
Temperament	Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size	30 gallons (113 liters)
Max Size	3 inches (7.6 cm)
Temperature Range	76–82°F (24–28°C)
pH Range	8.0–8.4
Salinity	1.025 (35 PPT)
Reef Safe	Yes
Available As Tank Bred	Rare

What People Get Wrong

Most people buy mandarin gobies because of their colors and assume the fish is as easy as it looks harmless. It’s not. The mandarin’s challenge isn’t water parameters or disease susceptibility. It’s feeding. These fish eat almost exclusively live copepods, and a tank that hasn’t built up a thriving, self-replenishing pod population will have an empty pantry within days.

The second mistake is confusing “can survive in” with “thrives in.” Yes, hobbyists have kept mandarins in 10-gallon tanks. Those are expert-level setups with extraordinary pod management. The casual hobbyist needs at minimum 30 gallons (113 liters) with a refugium running underneath and a robust live rock ecosystem that has been established for at least a year.

Third mistake: skipping the feeding check at purchase. Never buy a mandarin goby unless the store can show you it eating. A mandarin that won’t eat frozen food and is in a tank without pods is already declining.

The Hard Rule

Do not buy a mandarin goby until your tank has been established for at least 12 months with a healthy, visible copepod population. This is not optional. A new tank does not have the pod density to sustain this fish. Buying one earlier is buying it a slow death.

Origins And Habitat

It is crazy to think that such beautiful fish exist on their own in the wild. The mandarin goby is a spectacle to find around Pacific reefs. More specifically, they can be found in the Western Pacific Ocean, from the Ryukyu Islands below Japan to the barrier reefs off the coasts of Australia.

There, they live in and around shallow reefs and lagoons less than 60 feet (18 meters) in depth. They prefer silty bottoms littered with pieces of coral that won’t injure their underbodies. These islands of reef provide good hunting grounds for their favorite food, copepods, as well as other small invertebrates and microorganisms.

Interestingly, mandarin gobies are usually seen in small groups, foraging together among this rubble.

What Do They Look Like?

Mandarin gobies are some of the most beautiful fish in the fishkeeping hobby. Unfortunately, this beauty, combined with their relatively low price point, causes them to end up in the wrong hands of inexperienced hobbyists. The colors come at a price in care complexity.

Mandarin gobies have a deep aquamarine body with swirls and spots of greens and oranges that lead into a spectacular large reddish-orange tail fin. They also have a very distinguishable red eye against a lighter green head.

These gobies have large pectoral fins that they use to navigate and hover over coral reefs and the seafloor. They also have impressive dorsal fins that can easily collapse or be raised for a sail-like effect. As we’ll discuss, these dorsal fins are also used for telling the difference between males and females.

Mandarin gobies are only 3 inches (7.6 cm) long at mature size, but they immediately catch the eye with their unparalleled colors. In fact, they’re one of the few species of fish to express true blue pigmentation.

Male vs Female

If planning to attempt to breed mandarin gobies in your own reef aquarium, it is important to be able to distinguish a male from a female. Luckily, these fish are pretty easy to tell apart from each other, making it easy to obtain one of each.

The main difference between a male and female mandarin goby is the presence of an elongated spine at the front of the first dorsal fin. Males will have a noticeable point on top of their heads that cascades into a normal dorsal fin. Females will not have this spike and will have a rounded first dorsal fin instead.

Tank Requirements

In terms of setup, mandarin gobies are easy to keep. They do well in reef settings with lots of cracks and crevices for them to hide in and to forage for food. A soft substrate, like aragonite sand, will also keep their underbellies safe from jagged, coarser granules.

Mandarin gobies are considered a nano species and hobbyists have kept them in aquarium sizes as small as 10 gallons (38 liters). However, these are expert hobbyists and the casual fish keeper will not be able to do this for dietary reasons we will discuss later.

Instead, these gobies should be kept in a minimum tank size of 30 gallons (113 liters). An even larger tank will help maintain a steady food supply. Even big tanks with mandarin gobies in them will still need supplemental feeding from time to time.

Should You Quarantine Them?

For being such a difficult fish to keep alive in the aquarium, mandarin gobies are actually quite resilient and have good immunity to most common aquarium diseases.

These fish are known to excrete a protective mucus that prevents them from getting the most common aquarium diseases, especially those that attack the external body like some parasites. In addition to this natural defense, most hobbyists don’t quarantine them due to their immediate dependency on a living ecosystem.

Placing a mandarin goby in quarantine is basically redundant. Most medications that could preemptively be dosed would end up killing any and all pods while unnecessarily stressing out your fish. This could lead to a starving fish that might have been relatively healthy in the first place.

Instead of quarantining your mandarin goby, buy from a reputable local fish store. Introduce it to the main display and observe closely for any signs of sickness. The most important thing, though, is to get your goby regularly eating and accepting a variety of foods as soon as possible.

Mandarin Goby Care Guide

While mandarin gobies are mostly peaceful, they can be aggressive towards other fish around the reef, especially other similar-looking sand dwellers.

The same is true for keeping mandarin gobies with other mandarin gobies. However, given some time, multiple goby species are able to work out territories among themselves after a bit of fin nipping. If you have a male and female mandarin goby, you might even end up with a breeding pair when all is said and done.

If planning on keeping more than one species of goby in the reef aquarium, it is imperative to have a steady source of copepods. This can be achieved through harvesting your own copepods as well as having a larger tank in general. You can also purchase pods from companies like Algaebarn.

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Otherwise, mandarin gobies can be seen weaving in and out of the rockwork looking for food. They are shy fish and spend most of their time at the bottom of the tank, but they might venture up to the higher portions of the rockwork if hunting is good.

In general, if you see your fish picking at the rock, there is food available. You should be concerned if your fish starts to become more lethargic or duller in appearance and is drifting from rock to rock without nipping at anything.

Are They Reef-Safe?

Yes, mandarin gobies are very reef-safe. The only annoyance they may bring to corals is when they float over or sit on top of them while hunting for copepods.

Are They Poisonous?

You might’ve heard that the most colorful animals in the world are toxic, like poison dart frogs. Being one of the most colorful fish on the reef, does this mean that you need to worry about your mandarin goby killing the rest of the fish in your tank?

Yes, mandarin gobies do carry toxins. However, it’s something you’ll rarely ever have to worry about.

When threatened, these peaceful fish excrete toxic mucus that apparently has a disgusting odor as well. It isn’t exactly known how detrimental this poison can be to nearby life, but the smell of the mucus can be very noxious.

It is very rare for your fish to excrete this mucus as they are incredibly docile. However, if they are mishandled or threatened by another fish, they will use this as protection. The excretion of the mucus can be seen as fine filaments in the water radiating away from their bodies.

Having to excrete this mucus often stresses out the fish a great deal and it is likely that the fish will die shortly after. If this happens while in the reef aquarium, do a water change immediately and continue to monitor parameters. Once things are under control, look for the cause of the annoyance.

Tankmates

Mandarin gobies are reef-safe fish. They can be kept with an assortment of peaceful fish that won’t chase them around or try to steal their favorite places among the rockwork.

This can be troublesome with keeping mandarins with other gobies and blennies that might get too close to their territories. Though multiple goby species can be kept in larger tanks, it’s usually only recommended for much larger systems with a steady food supply and intricate rockwork.

Otherwise, mandarin gobies can be kept with clownfish, tangs, wrasses, and other common reef fish species as well as most invertebrates. However, these fish will not do well in aquariums with higher flow, like small polyp stony (SPS) coral systems that need lots of water flow. Excessive flow makes hunting difficult and might make them stay hidden within the rockwork.

As these fish typically stay towards the bottom of the tank though, they usually don’t irritate too many corals by floating over them.

What Do They Eat?

This is where mandarin gobies get difficult. Up to this point, mandarin goby care has been straightforward, though they’re unlike any other reef fish you might have kept before.

When looking at a mandarin goby, you realize just how small their mouth really is. These picky eaters have incredibly small mouths fit for eating one main invertebrate: copepods.

What Are Copepods?

When hobbyists refer to saltwater rock as being ‘live’, they mean it in a few ways. One of the most obvious ways is understanding that it houses microscopic beneficial bacteria that keep aquarium systems stable. Even more obvious than that, are the many macroscopic invertebrates and organisms that also make rock come alive.

In this group of living macroscopic organisms are copepods. Copepods are a type of aquatic crustacean found in both freshwater and saltwater ecosystems. There are many different types of copepod all with different roles within the natural food web. But in the marine aquarium, they are regarded as members of the cleanup crew and are a key diet item for some species.

Copepods are very small even though they are macroscopic. They can be very difficult to find in the aquarium, but they can sometimes be observed on the side of the glass, especially when a light is shone at night. The most recognizable feature about them is their two antennae that run perpendicular to their clear or white body.

In general, these animals are scavengers and help clean up microscopic waste. In return, they serve as food for some of our favorite challenging marine fish, like the mandarin goby.

Feeding Instructions

The most ideal way to feed your mandarin goby is by having a fully established and mature reef tank with a healthy population of copepods that will never expire and replenish itself. Even for the most advanced hobbyists, a self-sustainable copepod population within the main display is practically impossible.

Mandarin gobies are always searching for food and it’s rare that a copepod population will be able to replace itself at the rate at which it’s being eaten. The problem is that some mandarin gobies will only accept live copepods and reject all other foods.

In cases like this, the best way to keep your mandarin goby fed is by setting up another tank to grow and culture copepods. This setup doesn’t need to be elaborate, just enough to always have a steady population of copepods on hand to keep your goby fed.

Setting Up A Copepod Culture Tank

A copepod culture tank can be made with a 5 to 10-gallon spare aquarium or container. Most hobbyists have found fast-reproducing species, like Tigriopus and Tisbe sp., to be the most effective for keeping mandarin gobies happy. It’s also possible to start with a mix of copepod species.

This spare aquarium should be seeded with copepods and raised to a water temperature of about 75°F (24°C) for optimal reproduction rates. There should be some water movement throughout the aquarium from a small sponge filter. In order to keep salinity stable, freshwater top-offs may be necessary every couple of weeks.

Otherwise, there is no additional maintenance. In fact, you want to get the aquarium as dirty as possible so that the copepods have something to eat, like the algae that naturally grows on the sides of the aquarium.

Another alternative is setting up a refugium underneath the main display. Not only will a refugium increase nutrient transportation for your overall system, but it’s a safe place for copepods to live and naturally refill the main display reef tank.

However, refugiums give less control over manually dosing copepods and having an idea of the overall population available within the system at any given time.

How Do You Know If This Fish Is Starving?

The most common cause of death among mandarin gobies is starvation. These fish can quickly devour large populations of copepods overnight. If you see your fish searching for food but not picking at the rock, there might not be anything there to pick at and it might be time to replenish.

This is a very common mistake among beginner hobbyists as their reef tank is not mature enough and copepod populations run out within a few days of adding the fish. The only way to know how much your goby is eating is by constantly observing the behavior of your fish and seeing how many copepods are present at any given time. This can be done by shining a light into the aquarium at night and seeing how many copepods are present for a rough estimate.

In addition to having a healthy population of copepods, you can supplement feedings with live brine shrimp and mysis shrimp. Some mandarin gobies will take frozen food alternatives to both of these, but they will usually prefer live foods most. This diet can get to be incredibly expensive and difficult to maintain.

Some lucky hobbyists have had mandarin gobies that would take regular flakes and pellets, but this is very rare.

Lastly, make sure that your fish is always vibrant in color and has a plump abdomen. A starving mandarin will have dull colors, a skinny body, and an overall lethargic demeanor.

Reality Of Keeping A Mandarin Goby

Here’s the honest picture. Daily life with a mandarin goby is mostly about watching and worrying. You’re watching whether the fish is actively hunting vs. drifting. You’re watching whether its belly looks full or pinched. You’re counting pods on the glass at night.

When things are working right, these fish are mesmerizing. They hop and glide along the rockwork with a unique movement pattern that no other reef fish replicates. Their colors are genuinely unmatched in freshwater or saltwater fishkeeping. When you see a healthy, well-fed mandarin goby in full color actively hunting across a thriving reef, you understand why people do the work to keep them.

When things are going wrong, it happens quietly and quickly. By the time the fish looks visibly thin or lethargic, you’re often already in crisis. The lesson experienced hobbyists learn: check on pod supply proactively, not reactively.

Should You Get A Mandarin Goby?

Good Fit If:

Your reef has been established for 12 months or more with a visibly thriving copepod population
You have a refugium or dedicated pod culture tank running
You have at least 30 gallons (113 liters) with complex live rockwork
You can observe the fish daily and adjust feeding as needed
You’ve kept other demanding reef species successfully

Avoid If:

Your tank is under a year old
You don’t have a refugium or pod culture system in place
You’re a beginner to saltwater aquariums
You travel frequently or can’t monitor the fish daily
You can’t get the fish to eat before purchasing it

Where To Buy

Always buy mandarin gobies from sellers who can confirm they are eating before shipping or sale. A mandarin that arrives already declining from starvation is nearly impossible to save.

Flip Aquatics – Quality marine livestock with good handling practices
Dan’s Fish – Reliable source for saltwater fish online

Final Thoughts

Mandarin gobies are one of the hardest fish that can be kept in the aquarium setting. They don’t actually require much in the way of tank size, water parameters, or territorial needs, but their nearly exclusive diet of live copepods makes them a huge challenge for keeping fed.

These are one of the most colorful gobies available, but their beautiful colors take time, preparation, and determination to maintain. These fish are not for every system even if you think you have everything they need to thrive. Build the pod infrastructure first. Then get the fish.

Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide — your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

November 17, 2021

Axolotl Tank Mates: 5 That Work (and 4 That Don’t)

Most fish can’t live with an axolotl. Not because axolotls are aggressive, they’re not. Because axolotls need water cold enough to kill most aquarium fish. We’re talking 60–68°F (16–20°C). That’s not “cool” water. That’s cold. Add in the fact that axolotls have long, feathery external gills that every curious fish in the tank will want to nip, and you’ve got one of the least forgiving community setups in the freshwater hobby.

This isn’t a community tank article. It’s a “very short list of things that won’t kill your axolotl” article.

After 25 years in this hobby and time working at and managing fish stores, I’ve watched plenty of keepers try to make axolotl community tanks work. They ended badly, fin-nipped gills, stressed animals, impaction, secondary infection. An axolotl does best alone. But if you’re committed to tank mates, here’s what actually works, what doesn’t, and why.

Understanding Your Axolotl

An axolotl is not a fish. It’s a fully aquatic salamander, a neotenic amphibian that stays in its larval form its entire life. It patrols the bottom slowly, hunting by smell and water movement. It is nocturnal. It prefers dim light. And it will absolutely attempt to eat anything that moves and fits in its mouth.

Axolotls are not aggressive the way cichlids are aggressive. They’re opportunistic ambush predators. They don’t chase. They wait, they lunge, and they vacuum-seal their mouths around prey. The problem is that their “prey” instinct doesn’t distinguish between a feeder worm and a $15 fish you just added to the tank.

Their external gills (those flowing, feathery plumes) are one of their most beautiful and most vulnerable features. Nipping damage doesn’t heal cleanly. It opens the door to bacterial infection and can become fatal quickly.

What People Get Wrong

The biggest misconception I see: people look up “cold water fish” and think anything on that list is fair game for an axolotl tank. It’s not.

Goldfish are the most common mistake. They’re cold-water fish, yes. But goldfish are fin-nippers with enough size to seriously damage axolotl gills. They also produce enormous amounts of waste, and axolotls are already messy enough on their own. Even fancy goldfish, which are slower, pose a choking hazard and still nip. I’ve seen goldfish gill damage in customer axolotls more times than I can count, it’s one of the most preventable injuries in the hobby.

The second mistake: adding shrimp as “cleanup crew.” Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp are just expensive axolotl snacks. Axolotls can smell shrimp through dense plant cover. They will find them. They will eat them. Budget that in if you want to try it.

Third mistake: thinking guppies work because they’re “tough fish.” Guppies actually prefer water in the 74–82°F (23–28°C) range. Axolotl tanks run 60–68°F (16–20°C). That temperature gap will stress guppies and suppress their immune system. They’ll become disease vectors before long.

Biggest Mistake

Adding tank mates when you only have one tank. That’s it. That’s the mistake. When things go wrong (and they will) there’s nowhere to put the fish while you deal with the problem. A stressed axolotl with chewed gills sits in the same water as the fish that are still nipping, because there’s no way to separate them fast enough.

Before you add any tank mates, have a quarantine or backup tank set up and running. Not “I’ll borrow a bucket.” A cycled, temperature-stable tank. This is not optional. It’s the difference between a minor incident and a dead axolotl.

Why Some Fish Aren’t Suitable

Four factors rule out the vast majority of freshwater fish:

Water temperature: Axolotls need 60–68°F (16–20°C). Tropical fish need 74°F (23°C) and above. These ranges do not overlap. Any tropical fish added to an axolotl tank will be chronically stressed, immunocompromised, and prone to disease.
Temperament: Aggressive or territorial fish will attack the axolotl. Highly active swimmers will stress it. Even peaceful, fast fish become a problem if they’re curious about those gills.
Health risks: Cory Catfish have sharp pectoral and dorsal fin spines that puncture the axolotl’s mouth and throat if swallowed. Small snails become choking hazards. Some species carry parasites and pathogens that transfer easily in a shared tank.
Direct competition: Bottom-dwelling fish compete directly with the axolotl for food. Axolotls are slow eaters. Fast bottom feeders will clean up every pellet before the axolotl gets to it.

How to Set Up a Community Aquarium

Aquarium Setup

The minimum for one adult axolotl is 20 gallons (75 L). If you’re adding tank mates, start at 40 gallons (150 L) minimum, 55 gallons (208 L) preferred. More water volume means more stable temperatures, more territory, and more space for tank mates to escape if the axolotl lunges.

For two axolotls plus tank mates, don’t go below 55 gallons (208 L). Bigger is always better with this species. The cost of the setup is real, but it’s the price of doing this right.

Substrate

Fine sand is the only substrate I’d recommend for axolotl tanks. Axolotls dig. They also accidentally ingest substrate when feeding. Gravel causes impaction. Sand passes through safely.

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Water Parameters

Any tank mate you consider must be able to survive (and thrive) in axolotl water. These are non-negotiable:

Temperature: 59–68°F (15–20°C). Ideal: 60–64°F (16–18°C). Above 72°F (22°C) is dangerous for axolotls.
pH: 6.5–8.0. Ideal: 7.4–7.6.
GH: 125–250 ppm (7–14 dGH)
KH: 53–143 ppm (3–8 dKH)
Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

You’ll need an aquarium chiller in most homes, especially during summer. Don’t rely on ambient room temperature. It won’t stay cold enough.

Filtration

Use a sponge filter or a gentle HOB with a baffle. Axolotls need good filtration: they’re messy eaters, but strong flow stresses them. Any tank mate you add should also be fine with low-flow, cool-water conditions.

Decor

Load the tank with hiding spots, driftwood, rocks, caves, and dense planting. Axolotls hide from bright light. Tank mates need refuge from the axolotl. Everyone benefits from more cover.

Lighting

Keep it dim. Axolotls have no eyelids. Bright light is stressful to them. If any of your tank mates require bright light, this isn’t the right setup.

Top Axolotl Tank Mates

This is a short list. That’s intentional. There are only a handful of species that consistently work in an axolotl tank, and even those come with caveats.

Quick-Reference Comparison Table

Species	Adult Size	Min Tank	Ease	Compatibility
Other Axolotls	Up to 12 in (30 cm)	55 gal (208 L)	6/10	Medium
White Cloud Mountain Minnows	1.5 in (4 cm)	40 gal (150 L)	7/10	Medium
Zebra Danios	2 in (5 cm)	40 gal (150 L)	6/10	Medium-Low
Apple Snails (adults only)	3 in (7.5 cm)	20 gal (75 L)	9/10	High

Expert Take

After 25+ years in this hobby (including years managing aquarium stores where axolotls were a steady seller) I’ve fielded this question hundreds of times. The honest answer about axolotl tank mates is that the safest choice is no tank mates. Axolotls are slow-moving animals with flowing external gills that invite nipping, and they will attempt to eat anything that moves and fits in their mouth. After years of seeing keeper after keeper try to make it work with fish, my position hasn’t changed: a solo axolotl in a well-maintained cold tank is the right setup. Tank mates add risk with almost no benefit to the axolotl itself. If you’re going to try it anyway, the species list below is as good as it gets, and it’s a short list on purpose. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

1. Other Axolotls

The safest “tank mate” for an axolotl is another axolotl, with important conditions. Adults of similar size coexist reasonably well. A male and female together will breed, so be ready for up to 1,500 eggs. Same-gender pairs reduce that problem.

Never keep a juvenile with a fully grown adult. Juvenile axolotls display cannibalistic behavior, missing limbs are a common outcome. Adults may eat larvae outright. Size-matched adults only.

Even with size-matched adults, watch for recurring aggression. If one axolotl is consistently bullying the other, separate them. One axolotl per tank is the lowest-stress option.

2. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

Ease: 7/10: Best fish option available, with limitations.

White Cloud Mountain Minnows are the best fish option for an axolotl tank, and that’s not a high bar, but it’s a real one. They thrive in 60–72°F (16–22°C), matching the axolotl’s temperature range closely. They’re fast enough that a healthy adult minnow can usually escape a slow-moving axolotl lunge.

No spines, no hard shells, if they do get eaten, they won’t injure the axolotl. Keep a school of at least 6 to reduce individual stress. Even so, expect attrition. Some will get caught off guard at night when the axolotl is most active. If the minnow population is dropping steadily, remove them before the axolotl develops a taste for hunting them.

Choose White Cloud Minnows if you want the lowest-risk fish option that actually matches the axolotl’s cold water requirements.

3. Zebra Danios

Ease: 6/10: Faster than minnows but more boisterous, watch closely.

Zebra Danios tolerate water down to around 65°F (18°C), which puts them at the upper edge of the axolotl’s range. They’re extremely fast, probably the hardest fish for an axolotl to catch. They school tightly and stay in the midwater column, which helps them avoid the bottom-dwelling axolotl.

The downside: danios are energetic, active swimmers. Their movement can stress a slow-moving axolotl, especially in smaller tanks. They can also be nippy in cramped conditions. In a large tank (55+ gallons / 208+ L) with plenty of space, this is manageable. In a 20-gallon (75 L), it’s a problem.

Choose Zebra Danios if you have a large tank and want a fish that is nearly impossible for the axolotl to catch. Choose White Clouds instead if you want calmer cohabitation.

4. Apple Snails (Adults Only)

Ease: 9/10: The safest non-axolotl option available.

Adult apple snails are too large for an axolotl to eat and don’t pose any risk to the axolotl’s gills. They’re the lowest-drama tank mate option. They’ll cruise the glass and substrate, cleaning up algae and leftover food.

Size matters. Adult apple snails (2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm)) are safe. Juvenile apple snails, bladder snails, and ramshorn snails are not. Small snails are swallowed and cause impaction. Even worse, small snails with hard shells can’t be digested and will block the axolotl’s gut. This can be fatal.

Avoid any snail species that climbs on other tank inhabitants, some trumpet and nerite snails will attach to the axolotl and rasp its slime coat. Adult apple snails don’t do this.

Choose Apple Snails if you want a tank mate that requires zero monitoring and provides actual benefit (cleanup crew). This is the one I’d actually recommend without hesitation.

Hard Rule: Never add any fish or invertebrate that nips, has hard spines, or can’t survive below 68°F (20°C). The axolotl’s external gills are not a novelty feature, they are its respiratory system. Gill damage from fin-nippers causes bacterial infection and can kill the animal. No exceptions.

5. Can More Species Work?

No. That’s the honest answer.

Some keepers report success with hillstream loaches (cold-water bottom feeders with flattened bodies) but hillstream loaches need very high flow, the opposite of what axolotls require. That single conflict kills the idea. Celestial pearl danios tolerate cooler water and are small enough to avoid conflict, but they’re fragile and will be eaten. The list above is the list. It exists for a reason.

If you’re asking whether a fish not on that list can work with your axolotl, the answer is no. Tropical fish (no. Bottom dwellers) no. Anything with spines or a shell small enough to swallow, absolutely not. Stop at the list above.

Fish You Should Avoid

This isn’t an exhaustive list, there are hundreds of fish you shouldn’t keep with axolotls. These are the ones that come up most often because they seem like they might work but don’t.

1. Goldfish

Cold-water fish, yes. Good tank mate, no. Goldfish grow large enough to harass axolotls, they nip fins and gills consistently, and they produce more waste than almost any other common aquarium fish. You’re already dealing with an axolotl’s waste load, adding goldfish doubles or triples your filtration problem.

Fancy fancy goldfish are sometimes suggested because they’re slow. They’re still a choking hazard when small, they still nip, and they still produce enormous waste. Don’t do it.

2. Cory Catfish

Cory Catfish are peaceful, great community fish, just not with axolotls. Their sharp pectoral and dorsal fin spines will puncture the axolotl’s mouth and digestive tract if swallowed. They also occupy the same bottom territory, creating direct feeding competition. Keep cories in a separate tank.

3. Otocinclus Catfish

Otocinclus catfish have the same spine problem as cories. On top of that, they need high flow, the opposite of an axolotl’s slow-current environment. Two incompatibilities, zero benefit.

4. Shrimp

Freshwater shrimp (ghost shrimp, Amano shrimp, cherry shrimp) are live food to an axolotl. Full stop. Some keepers add them intentionally as enrichment and treat feeding. If that’s your intention, fine. If you want them as a permanent cleanup crew, save your money. They’ll be gone within days.

Ghost shrimp and Amano shrimp won’t even make it a full week in most axolotl tanks. Axolotls can smell them. Dense plant cover doesn’t stop that.

Reality of Keeping This Setup

Axolotls don’t need companions. They need cold water and stability.

Here’s what daily life with an axolotl community tank actually looks like:

Your axolotl will spend most of its day sitting still on the bottom. It comes alive at night. That’s when the hunting happens. If you’re adding White Cloud Minnows or Zebra Danios, you will see fewer fish each week until you either find a sustainable population balance or the axolotl runs out of prey. Some keepers actively replenish the minnow school every few months and accept this as part of the setup. There’s nothing wrong with that approach if it’s intentional.

Temperature management is the biggest ongoing challenge. Room temperature in summer will kill an axolotl. A chiller is not a luxury for axolotl keepers, it’s essential equipment. Budget $150–400 for a quality chiller and don’t skip it.

Water quality degrades faster in axolotl tanks than in most other freshwater setups. Axolotls are messy eaters. They leave food scraps. They produce a lot of waste relative to their size. Add fish, and you add more waste, more stress on the biofilter, and more frequent water changes. Expect 25–30% weekly water changes minimum.

The axolotl itself is easy to stress. Loud vibrations, bright lights, high flow, and overcrowding all cause stress responses, loss of appetite, floating, fungal infections. If your tank mates are causing any of these behaviors, remove them immediately. Not “monitor for a few days.” Remove them. In my experience, axolotl keepers who hesitate at this step almost always regret it, stress compounds fast in a cold tank, and gill damage shows up overnight.

Should You Set Up an Axolotl Community Tank?

Good Fit If:

You already keep a successful solo axolotl and want to try a carefully chosen addition
Your tank is 40+ gallons (150+ L) with stable temperatures at 60–68°F (16–20°C) year-round
You have a backup tank ready if the community setup doesn’t work out
You’re specifically interested in adult apple snails, the safest option with the most upside
You want White Cloud Minnows and understand you’ll likely lose some over time

Avoid If:

You want tropical fish, the temperature is lethal to them and it will never work
You don’t have a chiller, without one, you can’t maintain axolotl temperatures reliably
You want an active, colorful community tank, an axolotl tank will never be that
You’re not prepared for fish losses, some attrition is inevitable in this setup
You don’t have a backup tank ready for quick removal if needed

Mark’s Pick: Adult apple snails, full stop. They’re too big to eat, they clean the tank, they don’t nip, and they don’t need the axolotl to ignore them to survive. If you want fish, White Cloud Mountain Minnows in a school of 8–10 in a 40+ gallon (150+ L) tank give you the best realistic shot at a stable cohabitation. Monitor weekly. Have a plan for removal.

FAQ

Can axolotls live with other axolotls?

Yes, with conditions. Keep adults of similar size together only, never juveniles with adults, and never size-mismatched animals. Juvenile axolotls are cannibalistic and will bite limbs off each other. A male and female pair will breed, producing up to 1,500 eggs. Same-gender pairs avoid that. If aggression persists, separate them, one axolotl per tank is the lowest-stress option.

Can axolotls live with angelfish?

No. Angelfish are tropical fish that need water above 75°F (24°C). Axolotls need water below 68°F (20°C). These two temperature ranges are incompatible, one animal will always be suffering. Angelfish are also fin-nippers, which makes them doubly unsuitable for an axolotl tank.

Will axolotls eat their tank mates?

Yes, if they can catch them. Axolotls are ambush predators, they vacuum-seal their mouths around anything that moves and fits. Small, slow, or resting fish are at risk, especially at night when axolotls are most active. This is not a behavioral problem you can train away. It’s instinct.

Can fish live with axolotls safely?

Some cold-water species can coexist with axolotls, but never without risk. White Cloud Mountain Minnows are the most reliable fish option. Zebra Danios work in larger tanks. Every other setup carries significant risk of axolotl gill damage, impaction from swallowed fish, disease introduction, or fish losses. Always have a backup tank ready.

Can axolotls live with turtles?

No. Turtles are aggressive, unpredictable, and will injure or kill an axolotl. They have completely different habitat requirements. This combination doesn’t work under any circumstances.

Do guppies work as axolotl tank mates?

No, this is a common mistake. Guppies thrive at 74–82°F (23–28°C). Axolotls need water below 68°F (20°C). At axolotl temperatures, guppies are chronically cold-stressed, immunocompromised, and prone to disease. They’ll get sick before the axolotl eats them, and a sick fish in the tank is a disease vector for the axolotl. Don’t do it.

Final Thoughts

The axolotl community tank question always comes back to the same answer: the axolotl is better off alone. It doesn’t need tank mates. It doesn’t socialize the way fish do. It’s a slow, solitary ambush predator built for cold, still water, not a community tank.

Adult apple snails are the one addition I’d recommend without hesitation. White Cloud Mountain Minnows work if you’re prepared for attrition. Everything else on the internet is wishful thinking.

If you’re new to axolotls: keep it solo for the first six months. Get your temperature locked in, your water quality stable, and your axolotl thriving before you introduce anything else. After that, the short list above is your entire option set. It’s short for a reason, and the axolotl doesn’t care that you want more choices.

Have a question about a specific species or your setup? Drop it in the comments below.

References

Duellman, W.E. & Trueb, L. (1994). Biology of Amphibians. Johns Hopkins University Press.
Voss, S.R., et al. (2013). Origin of amphibian and fish limbless mutants. Genetics, 193(4), 1–8.
Serrano-Saiz, E. (2010). Axolotl biology and husbandry. Lab Animal, 39(3), 282–288.

November 16, 2021

Axolotl Breeding Guide: How to Breed Axolotls and Raise the Babies

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Where Do They Come From?

Axolotls is found in lakes around Mexico City. These critters are critically endangered due to pollution and illegal trafficking. One of the lakes you can still expect to see an axolotl or two is Lake Xochimilco.

Axolotls are unusual amphibians that remain in their larval form even after they mature. This means the adults stay aquatic and keep their gills instead of taking to land like most other amphibians do. Be careful not to confuse an axolotl with the larval stage of a tiger salamander (a closely related salamander species).

Why Are Axolotls Special?

These critters have an amazing ability to fully regenerate missing limbs. For this reason, axolotls are being monitored in many labs to satisfy the curiosity of scientists. Along with lost limbs, they can also regrow other body parts such as the eyes, and even regenerate their spinal cords. This makes them very interesting due to the potential use this ability holds has in human medicine.

How Do They Breed?

Axolotls are egg-layers. The male and female will participate in a mating ritual when ready to breed. To start the courting process, the adult Axolotl male will nudge the hindquarters of the female to see if she is receptive to his advances. The video by Jules Askalotl provides an visual overview of the breeding process.

Once he establishes her willingness to participate, he’ll place himself in front of her and start to lead her around the aquarium. He’ll always make sure that his tail is touching her nose. As he leads her forward, he’ll deposit a packet of sperm known as a spermatophore.

The male will then lead the female over this packet until it lines up with her cloaca (vent or sexual organ). She then absorbs the sperm into her reproductive tract to fertilize her eggs. This process is referred to as indirect fertilization.

Over the next hour, the male will continue leading the female over several packets of sperm until the breeding process is complete. Once done, remove the male to allow the female some peace before the egg-laying starts.

The female will only lay her eggs around 12 to 72 hours later. Your Axolotl may lay up to 1500 eggs on the decor provided, so be prepared. Once the process is complete, make sure to either remove the eggs or the adults. These animals aren’t against eating their own eggs.

It’s also best to remove the breeding pair from community setups with other fish. Some fish will get stressed out by the erratic movements of the adult Axolotl pair during breeding.

What to Do When the Eggs Hatch

Axolotl eggs incubate for around 15 days before hatching if kept at 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C). The hatching will be delayed for a few days more in cooler water.

For optimal larvae growth, make sure to keep the water in the upper-temperature limit. It is also essential to keep the water quality pristine. Axolotl larvae kept in poor water conditions have very poor survival and growth rates.

This means that once the eggs start hatching, you’ll have your hands full with tank maintenance. You will need to do partial water changes every few days to keep the water clean while your baby Axolotls are growing. This is especially important if you have lots of them in one setup.

If you kept all your eggs in one place, you will need to separate your babies into several 20 gallon tanks once they are big enough to be moved. Make sure to not keep more than 100 babies in one place. It is possible to keep up to 200 young axolotls in one aquarium, but this may lead to several unnecessary injuries and even fatalities.

Aquariums with fewer offspring in them have fewer problems such as damaged fins or lost limbs and gills.

Feeding Requirements

Newly hatched Axolotls won’t start feeding immediately after hatching. They only need live foods around 48-72 hours after hatching. In the period between hatching and their first feeding, they will be sustained by the remaining egg yolk in their bellies. The yolk will be visible through the skin as a cream-colored mass.

During this time the young also won’t be moving. Don’t throw them out by accident because they seemed dead. Not moving is completely normal at this stage. You’ll see them start to wiggle around 2 to 3 days after they were born, this is your cue to start feeding them.

Baby axolotls aren’t the easiest to feed. These youngsters require small, live food items in large quantities to keep them sustained. Until the Axolotl larvae grow their front legs, they will also only respond to moving live foods.

Without their legs moving around is a bit challenging for them. This means that they won’t actively try to find food. Make sure to deposit the food in front of them to make sure they are eating. If you fail to provide the right food, they may start to eat each other.

Fortunately, unlike frogs, young Axolotls grow their front legs first. Until they reach this milestone, however, feed easily accessible live food such as newly hatched brine shrimp and daphnia. Once their front legs are developed, they will also have developed a sense of smell. This means it’s time to start introducing dead food items.

You can offer dead food items earlier, but you’ll need to use tweezers and wiggle them around to mimic the movement of live foods to entice your baby Axolotls to eat. This is time-consuming, especially if you need to feed 1500 baby Axolotls. Rather stick to newly hatched brine shrimp and other foods that can wiggle around like daphnia.

What to Feed

Until a baby Axolotl grows its front limbs, you will be limited to only a few live food items. Here are some great snacks for your young pet:

Newly hatched brine shrimp
Daphnia
Microworms
Freshly chopped up blackworms (they wiggle for a long time after chopping)

Live Daphnia

Water fleas or Daphnia are an excellent live food offering for fish and fry

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Once the baby Axolotl developed its front legs, it will become more mobile and start to actively hunt. At this point, you can start to introduce some dead food items along with fast-moving live food. Here are a few options:

Frozen brine shrimp
Frozen bloodworms
Live mosquito larvae
Live brine shrimp
Live bloodworms
Earthworms

Once the baby axolotl grows its hind legs, it is fed exactly the same as an adult with the exception of the frequency in feeding. Baby axolotls need a lot of food to grow. To keep them healthy, you will need to feed them at least twice a day.

Once these little amphibians have all their legs, you can also start to introduce foods such as Axolotl pellets to their diet. Also, make sure to feed a variety of live and dead food for optimal health and growth. If you can’t find pellet food specifically for Axolotls, you can try feeding others specifically meant for carnivorous fish.

When feeding your baby Axolotls, make sure not to overfeed. If that happens, the uneaten food will start to rot and affect your water quality. Make sure to remove any uneaten food. Next time feed just enough to make sure they can eat all of it in 5 minutes tops. If it’s not eaten, remove it.

Tank Setup

Just like adult Axolotls, babies also need a proper setup to stay healthy. Here’s what you need to know to set up a tank for axolotl babies (Egg picture source).

Tank Size

The minimum tank size requirement for Axolotl larvae is also 20 gallons. Unlike an adult that requires the whole 20 gallons to itself, you can keep up to 200 newly hatched axolotls in the same tank which isn’t that much of a cost.

Keeping that many larvae together, however, is not advised. It’s better to stick to around 100 baby Axolotls together in a tank. This lower number helps to avoid unnecessary death and lost legs.

Once the larvae develop their front legs, you’ll need to divide the colonies into smaller ones yet again. This means that you’ll need several 20-gallon tanks or a super large aquarium. Keep in mind that bigger is always better. More water means fresh water for longer periods between water changes.

For the breeding tank, use a 20-gallon tank. This leaves just enough space to prevent the female from refusing to participate in the mating ritual.

You can keep the eggs in a 10-gallon tank altogether until they hatch. After that, make sure to divide the larvae into smaller communities or transfer them to a larger aquarium.

Water Parameters

Baby Axolotls are a bit more sensitive to water parameters than adults. For this reason, you need to be more vigilant when it comes to aquarium maintenance. Since you’re keeping several larvae in the same tank, you’ll also need to do more water changes to keep the water clean.

Skipping a water change can lead to water quality problems which in turn causes deaths. Also, make sure to treat any water before you put it into your tank. Tap water contains chemicals such as heavy metals and chlorine that will cause deaths.

Here are the water parameters for keeping your Axolotl larvae healthy:

Water temperature: Keep the water temperature in the range of 59 to 73 degrees Fahrenheit (15 – 23°C). The ideal temperature for larvae is between 70-72°F (21-22°C).
pH: Keep the pH in the range of 6.5 to 8.0. The ideal pH for baby axolotl is 7.4 – 7.6.
GH: 125-250ppm (7-14deg)
kH: 53-143ppm (3-8deg)
Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3-): <60 ppm

Water Temperature

A baby Axolotl does well in the same temperature range as the adults. For optimal growth, however, you want to keep this baby in slightly warmer water. 72 degrees Fahrenheit (22°C) is a good start for hatching eggs and growing out newly hatched larvae.

As your baby axolotl grows, you can slowly lower the temperature to between 60 and 64°F (16 – 18°C). This will allow the baby to slowly adapt instead of getting a shock.

Make sure to put an accurate thermometer in your tank to monitor water temperature changes. If the aquarium water is too warm, your baby axolotl will become stressed., you will require a water chiller if the water gets too hot too often or for prolonged periods of time.

In an emergency, you can add frozen cubes of Axolotl-safe water to your aquarium to help cool it down. In the rare event where it gets too cold, simply add an aquarium heater to get it up to the right temperature.

Substrate

The best substrate for Axolotl youngsters is sand. Sand provides some grip on the bottom of the aquarium as well as enrichment. Just like adult axolotls, the youngsters also like to dig through the substrate.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Sand is also safe if accidentally swallowed due to the very small size of the particles. Any kind of gravel should be avoided in larval tanks since it can cause injury and severe health problems.

Setting up a bare bottom aquarium is also possible. This will make cleaning much easier since you can simply suck up any solid waste during a water change.

Tank Decor

It’s always a good idea to have some decor in your tank. A completely empty tank will cause stress to your Axolotl larvae. Aquarium decorations you can consider include the following.

Plants

Plants are great in Axolotl tanks. They provide cover as well as enrichment. Keep in mind that the plants need to grow well in minimal lighting. Low light plants are the best candidates for an Axolotl tank.

Axolotls are nocturnal. For this reason, they have quite poor eyesight and prefer a dark environment. If the lighting in your tank is too strong, your axolotls will always be hiding from it.

It is also best to pick floating plants or those that prefer to grow on other ornaments like Anubias Nana or Java Fern. Axolotls dig a lot. This means that they will disturb and dig up any plants in the substrate.

Driftwood

Driftwood makes excellent places for an Axolotl to hide in and explore. It will also provide a surface for some kinds of plants to grow on. Driftwood also looks great when used on its own.

Hides

It’s very important to provide your Axolotl youngsters with places to hide. You can do this by adding ceramic pipes or other structures to your setup. This is even more important in tanks with lights. Axolotls have very sensitive eye lids and need to escape to a dark corner when the lights are on.

Rocks

Rocks are also an excellent addition to your breeding setup. A large flat rock is ideal for your Axolotls to breed on. Rocks can also be stacked and used to create shelters and hiding spots for the young. If done right, you don’t need anything else in your tank. Rocks make excellent decorations and can also be used to grow some kinds of plants.

Filtration Needs

Baby Axolotls need slow-moving water in their tank. For this reason, you can’t just put any filtration system in there. They also need a strong filtration system due to being such messy creatures, so it’s important that your filter can circulate a large amount of water in a short amount of time.

The best filters for baby Axolotls are sponge filters. These filters can circulate water quite quickly without creating a lot of flow.

Biofoam filters are quite popular for Axolotl setups. These sponge filters will help to clean the water while allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The bacteria in turn will help to keep your water parameters stable.

Baby Axolotls are quite sensitive to parameter changes so it’s best to make sure the tank is properly cycled before breeding with your adults.

FAQs

Why are my baby axolotls dying?

The most common reason for premature death is infections. Infections can happen due to poor water quality or overcrowding. Make sure to do daily water changes and separate your young into tanks of 100 Axolotls each.

How often should I feed them?

Baby Axolotls have voracious appetites. For this reason, it’s best to feed them once or twice a day.

What do they eat?

Baby Axolotls eat small live foods. You can try newly hatched brine shrimps, daphnia, chopped blackworms, and microworms.

How do I identify their gender?

The easiest way to identify gender is to check the cloaca (the opening or vent by the tail). The male Axolotl has a very prominent cloaca that protrudes slightly from the belly. The female has a much smaller cloaca that sits almost or even completely flat against the belly.

Final Thoughts

Now that you know a bit more about breeding Axolotls and caring for the young, you should have minimal problems doing it yourself. Just remember to set up a decent breeding tank with a proper filtration system and once the young hatch, don’t feed them immediately.

If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to comment below.

References

Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

November 12, 2021

Discus Fish Care – The Ultimate Guide To the King Of Aquariums

Discus are the fish I call the King of the aquarium. And for good reason. I’ve kept discus in dedicated setups and they’re unlike anything else in freshwater. The challenge is real: they demand pristine water, specific temperatures, and more patience than most fish require. But when you get the conditions right, there’s nothing more impressive in a planted tank.

The Discus Fish. To many who are fans of this fish, they are often called the Kings of the Aquarium. The are large, striking, and very beautiful freshwater fish. They are also to many considered a very difficult fish to keep. It is our dream fish and the one we wish we could have, but intimated by what others have said about proper Discus Fish Care.

Today’s blog post is all about Discus Fish Care. My goal here is to really break down Discus Fish care into critical key concepts. If these concepts are followed, you will have much better success than the average Aquarium Discus Fish keeper. I want to make you well informed and armed with the knowledge to become successful and happy with your Discus Aquarium.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 3 – Advanced

Discus demand stable temperatures of 82-86 degrees F (28-30 degrees C), very soft acidic water, and multiple water changes per week. They are the most demanding commonly kept freshwater fish – not suitable for beginners under any circumstances.

Key Takeaways

Discus fish have very specific requirements compared to most tropical fish – with temperature and pH being the biggest standout
They are very peaceful fish that can be easily bullied
They require longer aquariums and high-quality diets
Example tankmates include neon tetras and cory catfish
Clean water is a must for them. Frequent water changes and high-end filters are a must!

Discus are the most demanding freshwater fish in the hobby. They need pristine water, elevated temperatures, and a level of consistency that most hobbyists are not prepared to deliver. One missed water change and they stop eating. Inconsistent parameters and they get hole in the head. I have kept discus for over 20 years and I still treat every water change like it matters, because with discus, it does. If your maintenance routine is not rock solid, this fish will punish you for it.

The Reality of Keeping Discus Fish Care

Water parameters are not suggestions. Discus Fish Care reacts to instability. A swing of even 1-2 degrees or 0.5 pH will trigger stress, disease, or death.

Tank maturity matters. New tanks kill this species. The tank needs to be established for months before introducing Discus Fish Care.

Diet precision is critical. Overfeeding or wrong food causes bloat and internal damage. Small, varied meals are the standard.

Biggest Mistake New Discus Fish Care Owners Make

Adding Discus Fish Care to an immature tank. New setups have unstable parameters, and this species punishes instability with disease and death. Cycle the tank fully and let it mature before adding this fish.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

Mature tank, stable parameters, small frequent meals. Discus Fish Care rewards precision and punishes shortcuts. If you are not willing to test water weekly, pick a hardier species.

A Quick Overview

Scientific Name	Symphysodon discus
Common Names	Discus Fish, Discus, Pompadour fish
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	South America, Amazon river
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Advanced
Activity	Slow to Moderate
Lifespan	10-15 years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Middle
Minimum Tank Size	75 gallon
Temperature Range	82°-89°F (28°-32°C)
Water Hardness	1 to 4 dKH
pH Range	6.0. 6.5 (for most varieties)
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed	Moderately difficult
Compatibility	Limited, Best as a species-only tank
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes, but requires low nutrient water

History

Discus fish originate from the Amazon River. There original homes were around submerged tree roots and branches. This water was very clean and calm. The Discus Fish is a member of the cichlidae family. The cichlidae family is the largest group of freshwater fishes. However, Discus do not share the characteristics of many other Cichlids. Discus are very peaceful by nature while many Cichlids are aggressive and built for speed.

The first Discus was identified in the early 1800s by Johann Natterer¹. Natterer was instrumental in the identification of many animal species in the Amazon. His name is associated with several animals such as the Natterer’s bat.

The fish Discus to be imported happened around 1921. The shipping handling method for these fish at the time where not very good. Many died during the shipping process due to stress. It wasn’t until the mid 1930s that Discus started getting bred in captivity. These happened when the first Discus Fish were imported to the United States and Dwight Winter became the first person to successfully breed Discus in capacity.

As breeding techniques advanced and shipping improved, we started to see more varieties of Discus. Between the 1970s and 80s Discuss breeders started to create more colorful and vibrant varieties of Discus, like the Powder Blue Discus shown below.

Discus Fish Care – The Keys To Success Keeping Discus

Discus to many are considered very challenging to keep (video from our YouTube Channel). They are more difficult to keep then the average freshwater tropical fish, but not impossible. It is a matter of getting all the care elements dialed in so you have a stable tank. Discus Fish require a high investment. They need bigger tanks and higher quality equipment to provide the best environment for them. Let’s break down the keys to success for Discus Fish. They are:

Housing
Filtration
Source Water
Temperature
Oxygen
Decor
Substrate (Or no substrate)
Diet
Tank Mates

Tank Size (Housing)

Adult Discus are large fish. They can grow up to 6 to 8 inches long, they also grow height wise as well due to their dish shape. Like most Cichlids, they are territorial to their own kind, so they need space to thrive and and a natural looking environment to curb their aggression.

The best tank to start a Discus Tank with would be a 75 gallon aquarium. Some people say a 55 gallon aquarium is okay, but I prefer the 75 gallon because it is both wider and taller. These are both factors we want to keep in mind when it comes to the taller disc shapes of these fish.

For a 75 gallon aquarium, we are looking to house 6 adult sized discus fish. Some people will start these tanks up with 10-12 younger discus and allow them to grow. Eventually, they will reduce their numbers to 6, with two being males. Reducing the male population reduces the aggressiveness. A 75 gallon aquarium is not an aquarium you can easily order online.

My suggestion would be to either purchase the aquarium from a petstore when they go on sale or attempt to purchase a cheap used tank from a hobbyist or classified ad. Marineland is a good brand to purchase a first time Discus Aquarium. They are well built and have black silicone instead of clear.

Tank Filtration

DIscus require very clean water. Their natural environment has clean water and the average home aquarium does not provide the quality water or filtration they need. Many hardcore discus keepers will sort this out with daily or every other day water changes. These water changes are very large – usually 50% or more. We can do the same thing here, but if you to build a foundation of proper equipment that can help keep your levels down you won’t be a slave to water changes.

Our first option is a Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear. The aquaclear always makes it into our fish tanks if one is looking for a hang on the back filter. It will do a great job for you and will work trouble free for years.

Our next option is a premium piece of equipment like a Canister Filter. Again, our focus on Discus tanks is very clean water. A Canister filter is ideal for this as we can stuff these with premium level biomedia like Biohome Ultimate Filter Media. This media is one of the best out there in the market and has the ability to reduce nitrates in the aquarium. We are going to pair this media inside the best canister filter on the market today, the OASE Biomaster Thermo. This canister filter comes with a heater bay to place your heater and with a ton of media space.

Editor’s Choice!

OASE Biomaster Thermo

The Pro’s Choice

The top choice among professional aquascapers. German engineering and equipped with an intregrated heater.

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This is a premium option, but let’s keep in mind that Discus are a premium level fish. These fish are not cheap and they demand proper equipment and maintenance. Let’s set ourselves up for success by getting high end equipment.

Source Water

Discus Fish need very clean water. I will say this over and over again in this blog post to drive in the point. It is one of the most critical factors to your success. Sometimes, the source water of your tap water is not going to be good enough for your Discus Fish.

It’s going to depend on your city’s water report. I would suggest you get a city water report and get the readings of levels in your tank to determine if an RODI Unit is going to be needed. The main thing we are going to need to look for are high nitrates. If you have high nitrates coming out of your tap water, you need to consider an RODI Unit or RO Unit. RO water becomes a major purchase when it comes to breeding or raising Discus fry.

Budget Option

Aquatic Life RO Buddie

Budget Option

Compact and great for smaller tanks. This is the best unit if you live in an apartment or dorm

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The RODI unit shown above is an example of a good unit that will get the job done. If you are going to use RO or RODI water, you will want to use a trace element supplement. Seachem’s Discus Trace is just the supplement to use. Distilled water can also work in a pinch, but given the tank size needed for these fish, it’s usually not a good long term choice.

For those of us using tap water, it is very important to age your tap water for 24 hours then treat it with a declorinator like Seachem Prime. You can further prep with a heater and airstone or submersible pump. The preference is aged tap water + prime if your source water is good enough.

I know not everyone’s tap water is going to be adequate. If you cannot obtain your city’s water report, I would suggest getting an RO unit. Nearly all units designed for aquariums will be an RODI unit. For Discus, you can remove the DI stage to save on the resin as long as your TDS output is within 50-100.

Temperature

Next to clean water, temperature is the second big factor to Discus Fish care success. Discuss thrive on temperatures from 85 to 86 degrees. That is a lot warmer than most tropical fish that likes 78 degrees. What will usually happen with Discus under lower temperatures is that they will not fare well under typical tropical fish temperatures.

We want higher temperatures for a Discus fish for multiple reasons. Warmer water keeps our Discus active. It increases their metabolism and produce a more colorful fish. Many Discus are also keep at higher temperatures.

Imported Discus from Germany and Malaysia will often keep their temperatures higher. You will also want to see what temperatures the Discus you are looking to buy are kept at as you need to accumulate. The main issue you will deal with higher temperatures is bacterial infections. If you have an outbreak, they are tougher to deal with at higher temperatures because the bacteria will produce faster.

We want to use the Best Aquarium Heater we can get our hands on. For a Discus aquarium, the Eheim Jager heaters are the best heaters to go with. It would also be wise to get an aquarium heater controller like an Ink Bird to ensure you have temperatures that are accurate and fail proof.

Tank Aeration

With higher temperatures and larger fish we will be dealing with oxygen issues in our aquarium. Also, Discus Fish prefer calm waters so we cannot use a Wave Maker for our setup. We are going to want to use a proper Aquarium Air Pump to provide a high amount of oxygen to our Discus tank.

Whisper AP Series

A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings

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Since we are dealing with larger tanks with Discus, a powerful air pump is in order. The Tetra Whisper AP series is the ideal aquarium air pump for Discus tanks. It is powerful and can handle the needs of these large fish while not making you lose your mind with their noise.

Tank Decorations

From what we know about the history of Discus Fish, they lived near submerged tree roots and branches. The best decor for Discus is going to be Driftwood. However, we need to be very careful in our handling and selection of driftwood. We want a wood that will not alter the pH of our tank and we want something that is not going to rot away and leech nutrients all over the place.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

Manzanita wood is probably the best wood to use for a Discus tank. It is clean and looks the part for their natural environment. Sandblasted Manzanita is what we want to look for. There are large showpieces you can purchase from the link above. These large sizes will show better in a large Discus tank.

Prepping the wood for the aquarium is a major process we must undergo for our Discus. Prepping driftwood for aquarium usage requires us to boil it for 10 to 15 minutes. This is to clean the rock of decaying, dead material and to remove tannins. Tannins being released from driftwood will dark the water of your aquarium giving it a tea-colored look. Below is a video by Long Island Fish Guy showing the process.

The main challenge with boiling a large piece of driftwood is you cannot fit it in a pot. To work through this there are two approaches. One is to boil in parts that you can dip into a cooking pot. Another is to put the wood in a bathtub or outside and pour the boiling water on the wood. Be very careful if you have to do this as you can hurt yourself.

Tank Substrate

Discus keepers fall into two camps. Those who want to do a bare bottom tank and those who want the look of a natural substrate. There are pros and cons to both.

For a bare bottom tank, we are working to create a very clean tank. The bare bottom approach is the preferred approach for breeders and those raising Discus fry. You can do a bare bottom tank for adult discus. For many, they will feel that the look of a bare bottom is odd. Painting the bottom of the aquarium white will help with the look. Other hobbyists have used aquarium safe tile to decorate their bottoms.

A discus tank with a natural substrate will provide a natural aesthic look. The problem you run into with a substrate is waste accumulation and dealing with potential nutrient issues. The best way to work with a substrate is to use it for aesthic purposes only.

We aren’t going to make an active substrate and we want a thin substrate similar to what I suggested with my prior Goldfish Tank post. We want no more than a half inch for our substrate. This will limit our ability for using rooted Aquarium Plants, but we will see later on that rooted plants are not the best for Discus Tanks.

The easiest substrate to maintain for a Discus tank is sand. We also have to consider the colors of our Discus. Discus fish are bright in color so a dark color would make them look darker. A lighter substrate will make our Discus look more bright. Light substrate is what we are going to want.

Ideal For Goldfish

Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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A sandy grain size substrate like the one pictured above from Caribsea is what we are looking for. Again, we only want a half inch of substrate. This substrate is also pH neutral – something we will desire as most Discus for keeping purposes will need acidic water to neutral. This range of pH is 6.8 – 7.6 for most Discus varieties. If we are breeding discus, pH needs is different. But, the best practice for breeding Discus is bare bottom.

Diet

Discus are big and colorful fish. They are demanding when it comes to diet as they need a varied and balance diet in order to keep their immune systems and colors healthy. Discus also require to be feed multiple times a day. They also have small mouths for their size and are slow eaters.

When it comes to food, the smaller is better. We want a mix of bloodworms, blackworms, and vibra bites. The delivery method is important as well. I have mentioned in past posts the amazing nutritional value of blackworms in the past. Blackworms would be my go to here. Freeze Dried Blackworms with a vitamin boost like Vita-Chem is a great mix.

My Pick

Vita Chem

One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.

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For pellet food, Vibra bites is perfect for discus. It has the worm like shape that get your Discus going.

Great For Discus

Hikari Vibra Bites

A color enhancing formula that has a worm shape. Excellent for discus fish.

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For feeding worm food like black worms a feeding cone can useful for keeping the food in place. Discus are slow eaters so this keeps the food in one place so your Discus can eat while keeping your tank clean. The video below by Canadian Aqua Farm shows a feeding cone in action.

Tank Mates

Finding tank mates for a Discus Fish tank is the challenge. Because we are going to keep our Discus in hotter waters, this is going to hard on many tropical fish. Also Discus are slow feeders so an aggressive feeder is going to out compete and stress our Discus.

Aquarium fish like barbs are going to be bad tank mates due to how aggressive and active they are. Angelfish and Rams should also be avoided. We will also want to be careful about adding too many schooling fish like tetras who as a group can out compete our discus for food.

When we think about good tank mates, Cardinal Tetras and Corys come to mind. It is doable, but my recommendation is to make your Discus the centerpiece of your aquarium. Start with a dominant Discus Tank first then consider adding tank mates if you really want to.

Live Plants for Them

A planted tank with Discuss is one of the most challenging setups you can attempt in the freshwater hobby. You are working against multiple factors when trying to add plants with Discus.

The first is the temperature. Because Discus do better in warm weathers, many plants will struggle to thrive at 85-86 degrees. The second factor working against is the lack of nutrients. Remember when I said that Discus Fish like clean water? Clean water means low nutrients. Low nutrients means that plants are going to have a hard time getting the food they need and we cannot use an active substrate.

Active substrate like the ADA Aquasoil I recommend in our Best Planted Tank Substrate post will cause higher nutrient levels in the tank. Great for rooted and carpeting plants, but bad for Discus.

So what does this leave us with? We just eliminated a number of possible aquarium plants from the list. We are going to want live plants that can not only tolerate the higher temperatures of our Discus tank, but also will still grow in a low nutrient environment. We also want plants that can tolerate a non CO2 injected environment as we want to ensure we have a rich amount of oxygen available with our higher temperatures.

This leaves us with the hardiest of live plants, preferably ones that are column feeders versus root feeders. These will will do well without CO2 These plants are:

Anubis
Java Fern
Shallow Rooted plants like
- Bacopa Caroliniana
- Micro Swords
- Vallisneria

All of the plants above are considered Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do to if you want live plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System. I would recommend Current USA’s Serence Pro lights.

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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When planning a planted Discus Tank, we will need to keep in mind spacing. We will want our plants either attached to our driftwood or in the background of our aquarium. We want to keep the rest of the aquarium open for our Discus to swim and not feel crapped.

We want to avoid densely planted tanks. Lastly, our fish population decreases in a planted setup. For a 100 gallon fish tank, we would drop down to 5 to 6 Adult Discus. We do this because our substrate become an issue with waste with a planted tank. We want to keep our tanks very clean for Discus, so our best approach here is to reduce our aquarium fish population.

Another thing to keep in mind is that Planted tanks are not good for raising fry or breeding. If you are looking to breed, the best practice are bare bottom tanks.

Different Types

There are tons of breeds of Discus. They are all long-lived, get large, and is breed under the right conditions. We have two types of Discus in our hobby:

Wild Discus
Domestic Discus

Wild

The wild discus are the original Discus where our domestics come from. The Blue Green wild discus is where most of our Domestic Discus come from.

The Heckel Discus is one of the most sought after wild Discus. They are found in the Rio Negro. They are one of the most demanding Discus to keep in the aquarium due to their pH requirements. They prefer a pH closer to 4.0, which is a challenge for many aquarium keepers.

All wild Discus are imported and difficult to keep in comparison to domestically bred Discus who are used to aquarium environments. Wild caught Discus are best kept to the experts and Discus enthusiast.

Domestic (Captive Bred)

There are more than 1000 types of Discus Fish available in the market, day by day count is increasing because of cross breeding and demand on market. And this video below shows the diversity of Discus fish. One thing to keep in mind is that Discus with a yellow coloring have difficulty maintaining their color.

I’ll go over the various discuss types in another post to keep this one short. Check out the visual below by Knock Out Aquatics to see how varied Discus get!

How To Select Them

Discus are very sensitive fish. They require careful selection when choosing a quality store to purchase from an a healthy specimen. Here are a few things to look for:

Round shape – look for deformities
Clear eyes – no nicks or cloudy eyes
Good color – poor color indicates stress or poor diet
Fins – Look for straight fins. Watch out for bent or clamped fins
Body mass – Your Discus should look thick. Do not purchase a thin Discus
Good appetite – Your Discus should actively eat when fed
Swimming activity – The Discus should be swimming in the open not in a corner

How To Quarantine Them

While I believe you should quarantine all fish, I know most people will not. Discus fish are a premium fish and require quarantine into to thrive. The quarantine process takes 8 weeks and involves frequent water changes – as often as every day!

In the second week, Discus experts would recommend prophylatic treatment with Prazipro or Levamisole to treat for internal parasites. Internal parasites are very common with Discus and is a mild treatment².

You would stop treatment in the 6th weeks and do a 2 week observation period. You should not use antibiotics or external parasite treatments unless you see signs of disease. To learn more about diseases check out this fish disease article. Some commmon factors that cause health issues would be:

Chemical poisoning – from poor water conditions
Dissolved gases – from low oxygen or high CO2 levels
Poor tank hygiene
Nutritional deficiencies
Gill flukes, parasites — which is why we quarantine!
Bacterial infections

Your quarantine tank should be bare bottom with a cycled filter. It should be away from your display and you should use a separate net for it. Given the time involved of quarantine, do not plan on traveling or vacationing during this time. Know your schedule and plan ahead!

Breeding

This is a separate post in itself, so I’ll keep it brief. There are two methods for breeding Discus fish – artificial and natural.

Artifical Breeding

This involved removing the eggs after they have been fertilized. Fry are hatched and fed slime when they are initially born. As they grow, they are transitioned to baby brine shrimp and commercial foods. This is a common method of breeding for commercial Discus breeders. PVC is used as a surface to lay eggs and collect them. It is efficient and more profitable from a business perspective

Natural Breeding

Natural Discuss breeding allows for the eggs to be tended by the parents. The fry hatch and are free to swim in the aquarium. The fry will eat their parent’s slime coat when they are born. They eventually will be transitioned to baby shrimp and commercial food.

This is considered one of the most fulfilling experiences in our hobby. The parents take takes tending to their babies. They fish fry receive antibodies from their parent’s slime coats. As a result, they can develop a stronger immune system.

Where To Buy

Discus fish are one of the more difficult fish to purchase. You will want to purchase them from a high quality local fish store if you are looking to buy locally. If you do not have a good local fish store, you can purchase high quality specimens at tradeshows.

A more recent development has been the emergence of What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) online fish stores. Most are small specialty fish stores. When looking at one, make sure they offer a arrive live guarantee and a warranty of at least 7 days.

Additional Resources (Books To Read)

There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There are two books I recommend when it comes to Discus care.

Discus World

A great deep dive book on Discuss keeping for a beginner. Written by a discuss breeder

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The Discus World book is a good casual dive into the world of Discus keeping and breeding. It is informational enough to get you beyond what I have covered here, yet friendly enough for a beginner to pick up.

The Discus Book

First published in 1989, this book is an update with a full color edition. Written by Alastair Agutter, who has been an authority on aquariums since 1967

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The Discus Book is the book to purchase if you want a comprehensive guide on Discus. This book is written by Alastair Agutter. Alastair has been involved in the aquarium hobby since 1967. He is a veteran in the industry. He offers a no sales approach to proper care. It’s a refreshing perspective to read as our aquarium hobby evolves into a gadget first approach. He’s all about the biological and science. It’s a must read if you want to get serious about Discus!

What It Is Actually Like Living With Discus Fish Care

Discus Fish Care is a fish that makes you a better fishkeeper. You learn to test water, maintain consistency, and pay attention to subtle changes.

When thriving, Discus Fish Care displays colors and behaviors that no hardy fish matches. The reward is real.

When stressed, the signs are immediate. Clamped fins, faded color, hiding. You learn to read this fish or you lose it.

Hard Rule

Discus need 82-86 degrees F (28-30 degrees C) and 2-3 water changes per week. Drop below 80 degrees F or skip water changes and you will see disease and color loss – not gradually, but quickly.

Closing Thoughts

Discus do not forgive sloppy water changes. They just stop eating.

Discus fish are the known as the king of the aquarium. They are beautiful but difficult to keep. If you are up to the challenge, they is one of the most rewarding experiences in our hobby. I hope I showed you what Discus fish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

November 10, 2021

21 Types of Tetras: The Complete Species Guide for Freshwater Tanks

Tetras are the backbone of most freshwater community tanks. including mine. In my 65-gallon community setup I’ve kept multiple tetra species simultaneously, and after 25 years in this hobby I still find them endlessly varied and interesting. Most people know the neon tetra, but the tetra family spans hundreds of species. from beginner-friendly staples to specialty fish that can command real prices. The one thing I tell every beginner: tetras are schooling fish, and they need proper group sizes to thrive. A lone tetra or a pair isn’t just aesthetically wrong. it’s genuinely stressful for the fish. This guide covers 21 types worth knowing, with my honest take on which ones are best for different tank setups.

What People Get Wrong About Tetras

The number one mistake: buying three or four tetras for a community tank and calling it done. Tetras kept in small numbers are chronically stressed. They lose color, they hide, and they die faster than they should. This is not a fish quality problem. It’s a numbers problem. Six is survivable. Ten is where you see them thrive.

The second mistake is mixing species without knowing their behavior. Serpae tetras and black skirt tetras nip fins. Put either in a tank with a betta or an angelfish and the long fins get destroyed. It’s not random aggression. It’s predictable. Know your species before you stock.

Third: assuming all tetras are equally easy. Most are forgiving, but rummy nose and cardinal tetras are genuinely sensitive to water quality. They’ll signal problems in your tank before your other fish even notice. That’s actually useful if you pay attention.

What Are Tetras?

Tetra fish are small freshwater schooling fish that are technically known as characiforms. Most types of tetras will reach a maximum size of between one and two inches long, although some, like the Congo tetra, can grow to over 3 inches.

Most of the tetras are from South America, but there are also great species from Africa. There is a huge variety of different tetra species in the aquarium hobby, with new species still being introduced from time to time.

Why Do They Make Such Great Aquarium Fish?

Tetras are beautiful fish. Most species have awesome colors and markings and some types of tetras also have interesting fin shapes. Looks are not all these tiny fish have going for them though, personality is just as important!

Tetra fish are a generally super peaceful species, that get along with just about any other tropical freshwater aquarium fish that isn’t big enough to eat them.

They also tend to be very hardy fish and easy to care for, although unfortunately, some tetras have lost their natural hardiness due to overbreeding.

21 Best Types of Tetras For Freshwater Aquariums

Now that you know a little more about tetra fish in general, it’s time to meet some of the best Tetra types for your aquarium. For each species, I’ll be providing you with some essential information like:

Scientific Name
Difficulty Level
Temperament
Adult Size
Minimum Tank Size
Diet
Origin
Temperature
pH
Difficulty to breed
Planted aquarium suitability

Here is a video from our YouTube channel you can also follow. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week! We go into more detail in the blog post below.

Let’s get started!

1. Neon

Neon Tetra

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One of the most popular freshwater community schooling fish available in the aquarium trade. Great neon blue colors!

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Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Mostly carnivorous
Origin: Colombia, Peru, Brazil
Temperature: 70-77°F
pH: 4-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

The Neon Tetra is a classic aquarium fish that has been popular aquarium fish for generations. These fish ‘wow’ everyone that sees them with their amazing colors. Neon Tetras are a schooling species and love to hang out together, so make sure you keep at least 8 of them in the same tank.

2. Cardinal

Cardinal Tetra

A very popular schooling fish. Looks like the Neon Tetra, but with longer blue and red stripes. Grows larger than a neon tetra as well

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Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Mostly carnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 73-84°F
pH: 3.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

Cardinal Tetras might look very similar to the regular Neon Tetra but they are actually a completely different species. Cardinal Tetras also tend to be a little more difficult to find than regular neons. These schooling fish have even more color than Neon Tetras but the Cardinal Tetra grows a little larger.

3. Green Neon

Scientific Name: Paracheirodon simulans
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75-1 inch
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Diet: Mostly carnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 76-90+°F
pH: 3-6.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

The Green Neon Tetra (Video Source) is another great species from the Neon Tetra group. Green Neon Tetras have a bright blue stripe running from head to the base of the tail which really makes them stand out in the tank. These fish are ideal for a heavily planted tank, as long as their tank mates are also very small and equally easy-going.

4. Black Neon

Black Neon Tetra

A variant neon variety. More reliant than neon and cardinal tetras

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Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Mostly carnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

Black Neon Tetras are a great alternative to the more common Neon Tetra. This species of tetra is widely available and a very peaceful community fish for heavily planted aquariums. Like most other tetras, these fish should not be kept with shrimps.

5. Gold Neon

Gold Neon Tetra

A unique variant of the Neon Tetra. Looks amazing in aquascapes with red aquarium plants

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Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Mostly carnivorous
Origin: Colombia, Peru, Brazil
Temperature: 70-77°F
pH: 4-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

If you think this fish looks a little familiar, that’s because it is actually the leucistic form of the regular Neon Tetra.

Both fish have the same care requirements, but the Gold Neon Tetra offers a completely different look. Gold Neon Tetras still have the neon stripe down the side of the body but a much lighter overall color.

6. Congo

Scientific Name: Phenacogrammus interruptus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5-3.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallon
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Democratic Republic of Congo
Temperature: 73-82°F
pH: 6-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tanks: Yes

Although all the other tetra species on my list are from South America, the Congo Tetra (Phenacogrammus interruptus) just goes to show that Africa has some great tropical fish too! Congo Tetras have amazing colors, an interesting caudal fin, and a long, flowing dorsal fin.

Congo Tetras are large and very active, and they should only be kept in large groups and in tanks that have excellent water quality.

7. Bloodfin

Bloodfin Tetra

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A great-looking nano fish with a reddish fin. Grows to 2 inches in length and fairly peaceful in nature

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Scientific Name: Aphyocharax anisitsi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Paraguay
Temperature: 64-82°F
pH: 6-8
Difficulty to breed:
Planted tanks: Yes

The Bloodfin Tetra (Aphyocharax anisitsi) is a very attractive fish, with sleek lines and a bright red tail fin. They are an easy tetra to care for and they do well with most tankmates in a tropical community aquarium. To be safe, just don’t keep them with slow-moving fish with long fins.

8. Rummy Nose

Rummy Nose Tetra

An easy to care for Tetra fish that loves to school. Very peaceful fish that are great for beginners

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Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
Temperature: 76-80°F
pH: 5.5-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Optional

The Rummy Nose Tetra is a silvery fish with a black and white barred tail and a bright red face. They are a close shoaling species, so make sure you keep at least 10 to see them perform their natural behaviors.

The Rummy Nose Tetra makes a great community tank mate. It is best to keep them with other very peaceful types of tetras and community fish that will not bully smaller fish or outcompete them for food.

9. Black Skirt

Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia
Temperature: 68-78°F
pH: 6-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Optional

Black Skirt Tetras are active fish that do great in community aquariums, especially if kept in a large group to prevent aggressive behavior. These fish are also known as the Black Widow Tetra.

It’s true that they are not the most colorful tetras, but they are still a fun and easy species to keep. There are also awesome varieties of Black Skirt Tetras available with longer fins or gold-colored bodies.

10. Black Phantom

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon megalopterus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 5-7
Difficulty to breed: Easy
Planted tanks: Yes

The Black Phantom Tetra has a really bold look with its long black dorsal fin and dark body with a black marking just behind the gill covers. Like all tetras, these fish will do best in groups of at least 8 to 10 or so because this helps them feel more comfortable.

Black Phantom Tetras are very peaceful and easy to care for, making them a great choice for community tanks. Just be sure to avoid keeping them with shrimps or large aggressive tankmates to stay on the safe side.

11. Ember

Ember Tetra

A small red tetra that grows up to 1.25 inches. A very peaceful schooling fish

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Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallon
Diet: Carnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 5-7
Difficulty to breed: Easy
Planted tanks: Yes

The Ember Tetra (Hyphessobrycon amandae) is a nano freshwater fish species that can do well in pretty small aquariums. They are very peaceful fish that should only be kept with other small, non-aggressive species. Ember Tetras are schooling fish from South America that look amazing in a heavily planted aquarium.

12. Ruby

Ruby Tetra

A small tetra that only grows to 1 inch in length. Very peaceful and does well in larger groups

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Scientific Name: Axelrodia riesei
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous
Origin: Colombia
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 4-6.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

The Ruby Tetra is quite similar in appearance to the Ember Tetra, but a lot less common (Video Source). What really sets these fish apart is their white fins, black tail spot, and awesome red eyes. Ruby Tetras are very small fish that are ideal for small aquariums in the 15-gallon range.

13. Bleeding Blue

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon margitae
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Peru
Temperature: 70-82°F
pH: 5-8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

The Bleeding Blue Tetra (Video Source) is a less common relative of the Black Neon Tetra. These fish are larger tetras, and their amazing colors will make them stand out in any community aquarium.

Bleeding Blue Tetras are perfect for heavily planted aquariums but should not be kept with shrimps because they naturally feed on small invertebrates.

14. Purple

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon metae
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Colombia & Venezuela
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 4-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

The Purple Tetra is another awesome relative of the more common Black Neon Tetra (video source). These beautiful fish can be difficult to find, but make a perfect addition to any tropical community tank with other fish that are equally non-aggressive.

15. Golden Silver Tip

Scientific Name: Hasemania nana
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful, Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 74-82°F
pH: 6-8
Difficulty to breed: Easy
Planted tanks: Optional

This awesome variety of the regular Silvertip Tetra has a shining gold body that looks incredible in an aquarium with a dark background (video source).

Like regular Silvertip Tetras, you should only keep these schooling fish in a large group. Without a group to encourage their normal behaviors they may have a tendency to bully other fish and nip their fins.

16. Toucan

Scientific Name: Tucanoichthys tucano
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.5-0.75 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 68-82°F
pH: 4-6.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Optional

The Toucan Tetra is a great nano fish for tropical freshwater tanks. They have almost clear to golden bodies with a broad black stripe from head to tail and rosy-red cheeks (video source).

These tiny tetras are still a rare species in the aquarium hobby but are awesome tankmates for other nano fish like Otocinclus catfish and rasboras.

17. Orange Von Rio

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon flammeus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1 inch
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 68-79°F
pH: 5.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

This fish is actually just an amazing orange strain of the popular Flame Tetra. These adaptable fish are easy to care for and make a great centerpiece fish with their eye-catching looks.

The Orange Von Rio Tetra is a very peaceful fish species that are perfect for community tanks, especially if they have other small, peaceful tankmates and live plants.

18. Blue

Blue Tetra

A mid and top-level dwelling tetra. Grows to 2 inches in size. Has a blue coloration on its back half under lighting

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Scientific Name: Boehlkea fredcochui
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 2o gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Peru
Temperature: 72-82°F
pH: 5.5-7.6
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

Blue Tetras are still a pretty rare species but are amazing for larger community tanks. These guys can get a little feisty around feeding time, so make sure their tank mates are fast swimming and do not have long, soft fins.

19. Red Eye

Scientific Name: Moenkhausia sanctaefilomenae
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallon
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Paraguay, Brazil, Argentina
Temperature: 72-79°F
pH: 6-8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Yes

Red-eye Tetras can be identified by their shiny silver bodies, red eyes, and a black spot on their caudal fin (tail fin). It is important to keep them in a group of at least 8 fish to prevent fighting and fin nipping.

They are pretty big for tetras at over 2 inches in length and they are also very busy fish that swim actively in the aquarium. This means these guys need a bigger setup than the other species on this list.

20. GloFish

Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Argentina, Brazil, Bolivia
Temperature: 68-78°F
pH: 6-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Optional

The Glofish Tetra is a genetically modified version of the peaceful Black Skirt Tetra. Glofish are pretty controversial, and many aquarists either love them or hate them. One thing is for certain though, they do have incredible colors.

Glofish Tetras are pretty misunderstood in the hobby. These fish are not injected to give them these fluorescent colors, and they can be bred to produce equally colorful offspring.

21. Buenos Aires

Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon anisitsi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous
Origin: Uraguay, Paraguay, Brazil, Argentina
Temperature: 64-82°F
pH: 5.5-8.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tanks: Not recommended

The Buenos Aires Tetra is a great-looking fish with a silvery body and bright orange fins. These are large, active tetras, that can reach a little over 2 inches in length.

Buenos Aires Tetras have a bit of a reputation for eating aquarium plants, so they are not the best choice for carefully aquascaped aquariums. These fish are also not ideal for community tanks with smaller, slow-moving tank mates.

Additional Species

In case you’re still curious about even more types of tetra species, here are a few more that you might find swimming around at your local aquarium stores:

Rainbow tetra
Bleeding heart tetras
Bucktooth tetras
Emperor tetra
Penguin tetras
Lemon tetra
Glowlight tetras
Diamond tetras
Serpae tetra
Tail light tetra
Mexican tetras
Silvertip tetras
Bleeding heart tetra
Flame tetra

Tank Setup

Now that you’ve been introduced to some amazing tetra species for your aquarium, it’s time to learn how to care for them. Let’s start by looking at how to put together an awesome aquarium for your fish.

Aquarium Size

Most tetras are very small fish that don’t need a huge tank to be happy. They are active swimmers though, so they do need a decent amount of swimming space. The smallest species, like Ember Tetras, can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons. The majority of tetra species will do best in an aquarium size of 20 gallons or larger, however.

Editor’s Choice

UNS 60U

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Tetras are great fish for community tanks with other types of tetras or similarly sized tropical freshwater fish. If you want to set up a great community tank, make sure you provide enough room for the other fish too!

Substrate

The substrate is the sand or gravel that you put at the bottom of the tank. Some fish keepers prefer not to use any substrate at all, but I would recommend using aquarium gravel to create a more natural look in your tank. The color you use is not that important, but a darker substrate tend to bring out the colors in your fish better.

If you don’t want to work with an active aqua soil, but still want some of the advantages of one, you can try a product like CaribSea Eco Complete. It’s a beginner friendly inert substrate that will absorb aquarium fertilizers well.

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Lighting

Many tetras prefer pretty dim lighting, so you don’t need anything too powerful or expensive to keep these fish happy. Unless you plan on growing a lot of live plants, a standard aquarium light will do just fine. For planted tanks, consider a light designed for them.

Filtration

An aquarium filter is a piece of hardware that aquarists use to keep the water in the fish tank clean and healthy. Filters do some very important things like:

Mechanical filtration

Mechanical filtration is the actual physical removal of waste particles from the water. Essentially, aquarium filters suck water through a sponge-like material and these solid particles get trapped, leaving clean water to flow through the other side.

Biological filtration

This is the incredibly important type of filtration where beneficial bacteria that live in your aquarium filter work to convert dangerous ammonia and nitrites into nitrate, which is safer for your fish.

Chemical filtration

Many modern aquarium filters now offer a third type of filtration that removes toxins from the water. Often these filters use a material known as activated carbon that attracts and absorbs certain harmful particles.

There are many different types of filters available, so it can be tough to choose the best one for your tank. A great starting point for a tetra tank or community setup would be a simple hang-on-back or internal power filter.

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Testing Water Parameters

Water parameters are the conditions of your tank water. Different fish species prefer different parameters, so it’s important to look up the preferred conditions for each type of fish you keep.

The water you use in your aquarium will have certain qualities before you add it to the tank, and will also change over time, so it’s important to be able to test your water.

Testing your water parameters is easy with a test kit. There are a few different types of these test kits, ranging from dry strips that you dip in the water, to liquids that you add drops of your aquarium water to. If water chemistry isn’t your favorite subject, don’t worry, they are very easy to use.

Although each different tetra species has its own range of preferred parameters, let’s take a look at a generalized set of conditions that will work for most tetras:

Temperature: 76°F
pH: Most tetras do best in slightly acidic water, so a pH of between 6 and 6.5 is ideal.
Ammonia: 0ppm. Ammonia is a toxic substance produced in fish waste. In a cycled aquarium, testing should show no ammonia.
Nitrite: 0ppm. Nitrite is a toxic substance produced in fish waste. In a cycled aquarium, testing should show no nitrite.
Nitrate: 1-20 ppm.

Live Plants

Growing live plants in your aquarium is a subject all on its own, but it’s easier than you might think! Live plants provide many awesome benefits to your fish like:

Creating structure and hiding places
Providing a more natural habitat
Providing a growing surface for natural foods
Oxygenating the water
Removing nitrates from the water

Most tetras do great in planted tanks, and I would recommend the following species for beginners because they are easy, tough, and grow well in low light.

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If you have bright lighting, growing some floating plants like Amazon Frogbit can create some shady spots. This can help make your fish more comfortable and bring out their natural behaviors.

Unlike other tetras, the Buenos Aires Tetra has a bit of a reputation as a plant-eater. This is one tetra species I would not recommend for planted tanks unless you don’t mind them taking a bite here and there.

Decorations

Natural decorations are the best to purchase to simulate their natural environment. Try purchasing decorations like aquarium driftwood and rocks. For driftwood, easy to use manzanita or spiderwood work very well and shape well for attaching plants to it.

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For rocks, consider rocks like dragon stone or Seiryu stone. These rocks are great to use for aquascaping styles like Iwagumi.

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

After 25 years in this hobby and time managing fish stores, I’ve sold thousands of tetras and watched countless tanks fail for the same reason: people buy two or three and wonder why they look stressed and washed out. Tetras need a school. A group of six is the bare minimum, eight is better, and twelve in a well-planted tank is where you really see what these fish can do. Get the group size right and the colors and behavior follow. Skip it and you’ll be disappointed.

TIER BREAKDOWN

Beginner: Neon Tetra, Black Skirt Tetra, Buenos Aires Tetra, Serpae Tetra, Glowlight Tetra
Intermediate: Cardinal Tetra, Ember Tetra, Black Phantom Tetra, Penguin Tetra, Colombian Tetra, Diamond Tetra
Advanced: Rummy Nose Tetra (water quality sensitive), Emperor Tetra, Congo Tetra (needs space), Green Neon Tetra (soft acidic water required)

Species	Difficulty	Max Size	Min Tank	Best For
Neon Tetra	Beginner	1.5 in (3.8 cm)	15 gal (57 L)	First tank, community
Cardinal Tetra	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Planted South American setups
Rummy Nose Tetra	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Display tanks, experienced keepers
Black Skirt Tetra	Beginner	2.5 in (6.4 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Community tanks, robust setups
Congo Tetra	Intermediate	3.5 in (9 cm)	40 gal (150 L)	Large planted community
Ember Tetra	Intermediate	0.8 in (2 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Nano planted tanks
Diamond Tetra	Intermediate	2.4 in (6 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Community, underrated display fish
Serpae Tetra	Beginner	1.75 in (4.5 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Robust community (watch fin nipping)

How To Care For Them

Tetras are low-maintenance fish that are really easy to care for. That’s why many tetra species make such great fish for beginners. Let’s go through some of the basics of tetra care:

Aquarium maintenance

To keep your fish healthy and looking their best, regular aquarium maintenance is necessary. The most important thing you can do is to perform regular partial water changes.

This means regularly removing a certain proportion of the water and replacing it with fresh new water. A good starting point would be a 25% weekly water change.

Apart from your water changes, you’ll need to rinse out your filter media when it becomes clogged up and clean any algae that may build up on the glass or other surfaces on your tank.

Behavior

In their natural habitat, tetras are schooling and shoaling fish. This means they live in large groups of their own species out in the wild. You may even find groups of tetras schooling with other tetra species.

Tetras on their own or in very small groups will be stressed and nervous, and not comfortable enough to behave in their natural ways. Although tetras are peaceful fish species, some types may even become aggressive, so you should always keep your tetras in a good size group of the same species.

In most cases, the minimum group size for tetras is 8-10 of the same species, but you can go even bigger than that!

Tank Mates

If you plan on setting up a community tank, it’s important to know which species make ideal tank mates and which don’t. Tetras are small fish, so make sure their tank mates aren’t big enough to swallow them!

Tetras themselves are often partially or completely carnivorous, so avoid keeping them with fry or small shrimps that they may feed on. Here’s a short list of possible fish species that you can keep with your tetras:

Danios
Dwarf cichlids from South America
Otocinclus Catfish
Corydoras Catfish
Pencilfish
Dwarf Gourami Fish
Other types of tetras

Avoid purchasing aggressive freshwater fish such as:

Oscars
Jack Dempsey
Jaguar Cichlid
African cichlids

Feeding

Most tetra species are omnivorous which means they need both plant and animal matter in their diets. As a general day-to-day food, flakes or micropellets are a fine choice to keep your tetras well fed. Instead of choosing the cheapest variety available, make sure you pick up a high-quality, balanced product like Xtreme Aquatic Foods.

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While this food source is a good staple diet, you should always supplement their diet with natural foods as this will bring out the best color and behavior in your fish. You can provide natural foods in either live or frozen form.

Let’s take a look at some great natural foods that you can provide:

Brine shrimp
Blood worm
Mosquito larvae
Micro worms

Breeding

Many tetras are easy to breed, and sometimes they don’t need any help at all. To encourage your tetras to breed, be sure to provide them with high-quality natural foods and excellent water quality. If you have a large, mature aquarium, you might wake up one day to find tiny new fish swimming around!

Usually, however, the problem with breeding tetras is that they tend to eat their eggs and fry, so you need to take some steps to get them to breed in the first place, and then to keep the eggs and babies safe.

To do this, you will need to set up a specific breeding tank. A small tank of just a few gallons, and with no substrate is usually used for this. A clump of java moss in the tank will give the female a place to lay her eggs.

Add an egg-carrying female to the tank and then two days later, a male. Perform a large water change in the evening with cooler water, this imitates the start of the rainy season. After the water change, cover up the tank to keep it in complete darkness until the following day.

Remove the cover and switch on the lights, this often stimulates the pair to spawn. If the fish lay eggs, move them back to their regular tank and congratulate yourself on breeding your tetras!

Where to Buy

Tetras are some of the most common aquarium fish in the hobby and are usually pretty easy to find at your local fish store. My favorite online store for tetras is definitely Flipaquatics.

These guys stock an awesome range of tetra species and take amazing care of their fish, even offering a 100% live arrival guarantee on certain deliveries! They also quarantine all their livestock!

MARK’S PICK

Cardinal Tetra. It’s bigger than the neon, hardier in warm water (75-82°F), and when you put 12 or more in a planted tank they move like a single organism. That red stripe running the full length of the body is one of the most striking things in freshwater. If I’m setting up a South American community, cardinals go in first.

AVOID IF

You want to keep just 2 or 3 fish (tetras school or they stress). You have a brand new tank under 4 weeks old (new tank syndrome hits tetras hard). You’re planning to pair serpae or black skirt tetras with long-finned fish like bettas or angelfish (fin nipping is predictable, not random). You want fish that survive neglect: tetras are forgiving of beginner mistakes but they punish dirty, unstable, or overstocked tanks. Rummy nose and cardinal tetras in particular will crash quickly in poor water conditions.

FAQS

How many of them should be kept together?

Tetras are schooling and shoaling fish that need to be kept in groups to feel comfortable in your tank. I would recommend keeping a group of at least 8 tetras of the same species.

Are they easy to care for?

Most tetras are very easy to care for, and that makes them great beginner fish. Tetras will thrive as long as they are kept in a stable, heated aquarium, with good filtration and the right water parameters.

Do they need a heater?

Most tetras are tropical fish that need water temperatures between about 68 and 76°F, depending on their species, of course. If you live in a tropical area where the water naturally stays in this range, a heater will not be necessary.

I recommend using a heater in all cases, however, just because it makes it so much easier to maintain stable conditions.

What is the best kind?

If you ask 10 different people this question, you could get 10 different answers! The best type of tetra for any fishkeeper is the one that most appeals to them, and the one that they can provide the right care for.

What is the most common?

The regular Neon Tetra is the most common tetra available. This is not surprising though because these awesome fish look great, are very peaceful, and are also very easy to care for.

What is the most peaceful?

Most tetras tend to be pretty peaceful. The most popular tetras like cardinal, neon, and rummy nose tetras are some of the most peace fish you can purchase in the hobby.

Closing Thoughts

Tetras are not complicated fish. But they do have non-negotiable requirements: school size, stable water, and compatible tank mates. Get those right and you’ve got a display that makes people stop and look. Get them wrong and you’ve got stressed, pale fish that die in three months.

Start with neons, cardinals, or glowlights if you’re newer to the hobby. They’re forgiving and beautiful. When you’re ready to push further, rummy nose tetras in a mature planted tank are one of the best displays in freshwater. Diamond tetras are underrated and deserve more attention.

For sourcing, I recommend Flip Aquatics (use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO at checkout) or Dan’s Fish. Both quarantine their livestock and give you a much healthier starting point than a chain pet store.

November 7, 2021

Flowerhorn Cichlid Care – A Complete Guide

Flowerhorns are the most aggressively territorial freshwater fish most hobbyists will ever keep. They do not tolerate tank mates. They rearrange your tank daily. They will bite your hand during water changes and mean it. A flowerhorn demands a tank built entirely around its existence, and if you try to compromise on that, something in your tank is going to die. I have seen experienced keepers underestimate these fish, and the result is always the same.

A flowerhorn does not share a tank. It allows you to share its tank.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Flowerhorn Cichlid

The most persistent myth about flowerhorns is that bigger is always better when it comes to their nuchal hump (the kok). I’ve seen keepers pump their fish full of questionable supplements and hormones trying to grow the biggest head possible, and it often shortens the fish’s life. A healthy flowerhorn with a moderate hump will outlive an overfed, hormone-treated one every time. The other misconception is that flowerhorns are impossible to keep with other fish. While they’re aggressive, I’ve seen experienced keepers maintain them successfully with large, tough tank mates in 150+ gallon setups. It’s not easy, but it’s not impossible either.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Flowerhorn Cichlid Care

Flowerhorn Cichlid Care watches you. When you walk past the tank, it tracks your movement. This is not a passive decoration. It is an aware, reactive animal.

Feeding time is intense. Flowerhorn Cichlid Care strikes hard and fast. Smaller foods disappear in one motion.

Tank maintenance takes longer than with community fish. The waste output is significant, and skipping a water change shows within days.

Other fish in the tank exist on Flowerhorn Cichlid Care’s terms. If it decides a tank mate is in the wrong spot, that tank mate moves or gets hit.

Hard Rule

Flowerhorn cichlids are not community fish. They will kill tank mates in virtually any configuration – smaller fish are eaten, similar-sized fish are attacked. A dedicated species tank is not optional for this fish.

Species Overview
Classification
Origins
What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?
How Big Can They Get?
How Long Do They Live?
What Do They Eat?
Their Temperament and Behavior
Tank Mates
Care
Tank Requirements
Water Quality and Filtration
Breeding
Health And Disease
Where to Buy
FAQS
Closing Thoughts

Flowerhorns are the most aggressive cichlid most hobbyists will ever encounter. They will kill tank mates, rearrange your tank daily, and demand a setup built entirely around them. This is not a community fish. This is not even a fish you keep with other cichlids. A flowerhorn gets its own tank, period. If that is not what you signed up for, walk away now. This is not a fish you own. It is a fish that owns the tank.

The Reality of Keeping Flowerhorn Cichlid

Flowerhorns are interactive, intelligent, and visually spectacular. They are also the most destructive freshwater fish you will keep. Here is the reality.

Solo tank only. This is not a suggestion. Flowerhorns will attack and kill virtually any tank mate you put with them. Some experienced keepers have success with large, tough companions in 150+ gallon tanks, but the default should always be a species-only setup. One fish, one tank.

They destroy everything. Heaters get knocked off. Decorations get moved. Plants get shredded. Substrate gets rearranged into hills and valleys. You will learn to use heavy, stable equipment and accept that your aquascape belongs to the flowerhorn, not to you.

The kok is not everything. The nuchal hump size is partly genetic, partly diet, partly water quality. Supplements and hormones marketed to grow bigger koks often shorten the fish’s life. A healthy flowerhorn with moderate head growth will outlive an overfed, hormone-treated one every time. Do not chase the kok at the expense of the fish.

They bond with their owner. Flowerhorns learn to recognize the person who feeds them. They follow you across the room, beg for food, and display aggression toward strangers. This is a fish with a genuine relationship with its keeper, and that bond is a big part of why people keep them despite the aggression.

Biggest Mistake New Flowerhorn Cichlid Owners Make

Trying to keep them with other fish. It does not matter how big your tank is or how tough you think your other fish are. The default outcome of adding tank mates to a flowerhorn tank is injuries and death. Some people get lucky for a while, but eventually the flowerhorn decides it wants the other fish gone, and it has the size and aggression to make that happen. Accept the solo lifestyle or do not get a flowerhorn.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

Flowerhorns are the most interactive freshwater fish in the hobby. Nothing else comes close to the bond between a flowerhorn and its keeper. They greet you, they beg, they display, they have genuine moods. The trade-off is that they need their own tank, heavy-duty equipment, and an owner who respects their aggression instead of trying to work around it. If you want a pet fish in the truest sense of the word, this is it.

The Reality of Keeping Flowerhorn Cichlid Care

Size is the first reality check. Flowerhorn Cichlid Care grows fast and grows large. A tank that fits today will not fit in six months.

Aggression is not optional. This fish is territorial by nature. Tank mates are selected around this fact or they become food.

Filtration needs are extreme. Large predatory cichlids produce massive waste loads. Underfilter this tank and water quality crashes fast.

Biggest Mistake New Flowerhorn Cichlid Care Owners Make

Putting Flowerhorn Cichlid Care in a tank that is too small. This fish grows fast and gets aggressive in tight spaces. Start with the final tank size from day one or do not start at all.

Expert Take

Flowerhorn Cichlid Care is a commitment fish. Start with a 75 gallon minimum, run heavy filtration, and stock only tank mates that hold their own. Half measures do not work with predatory cichlids.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate

Flowerhorn cichlids are hybrid fish bred for their distinctive humps and colors. They are large (10-12 inches/25-30 cm), aggressive predators that must be kept alone or with similarly large, robust cichlids. A single-species tank is the standard.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Unknown – Hybrid
Common Names	Flowerhorn Cichlid, Flowerhorn fish, Flowerhorn, Luohans
Family	Cichlidae
Origin	Variable – Manmade fish
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Intermediate
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	10-12 years
Temperament	Aggressive
Tank Level	All levels
Minimum Tank Size	75 gallon
Temperature Range	75°-86°F (24°-30°C)
Water Hardness	161-358ppm (9-20 dGH)
pH Range	6.5 – 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Moderate to high
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed	Difficult to breed
Compatibility	Limited, Species-only tank
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes, known to dig up plants

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Flowerhorn Cichlid
Scientific Name	Hybrid (no single species)
Order	Cichliformes
Family	Cichlidae
Genus	Hybrid
Species	Hybrid

Origins

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Flowerhorn Cichlids (video source) are manmade freshwater fish that were first bred by fish keepers in Thailand, Malaysia, and Taiwan. That means this aquatic animal does not naturally occur in the wild. The closest wild relatives to this hybrid fish, are African Cichlids.

They first appeared in the market in 1996 and have been rising in popularity since. These large Cichlids also have quite an impressive lifespan adding to their popularity.

Unfortunately, some Flowerhorns have been illegally released into the wild. They can now be found in a few wild habitats around the world where they’ve become an invasive species.

Flowerhorn fish is a result of selectively breeding different African Cichlid species. The idea of breeding these fish was based on the earliest manmade fish called the Blood Parrot.

Interbreeding Cichlids gives them the same unique head and body shape as the parent species. Fortunately, this process is fairly simple since Cichlids will spawn with just about any fish of the opposite sex as long as it’s another Cichlid species.

A few of the naturally occurring species that were used to create Flowerhorn strains are Red Devil (Amphilophus labiatus), Redheaded Cichlid (Paraneetroplus synspilus), Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus), Red Terror (Cichlasoma festae), and Trimac (Cichlasoma trimaculatum). Parrot fish also played a role, but nobody seems to know (or aren’t telling us) exactly to what degree any of these species were involved.

There were originally only five strains of Flowerhorns. These were referred to as Luohans. These strains include the golden-based group such as Faders and Golden Trimax as well as the Golden Monkey, Kamfa, and Zhen Zhu varieties. These are sometimes referred to as Cichlid fish breeds, but in reality, they are only hybrids and not full breeds.

Other strains have also since been developed. Some of the most popular Flowerhorns are currently Golden Monkey, Red Dragon Flowerhorn, and Thai Silk.

What Do Flowerhorn Cichlids Look Like?

A Flowerhorn Cichlid is a large fish with a unique body shape and nuchal hump also called a Kok. The nuchal hump is the large protrusion on top of your fish’s head that gives them an easily recognizable silhouette. The size can vary from massive nuchal humps on males to nonexistent on females. The size can also change depending on the situation the fish finds itself in.

Both the dorsal and anal fins start about two-thirds of the way back on the body and stretch all the way to the base of the tail. The dorsal fin matches the bulk of the anal fin and ends in a fleshy, braid-like protrusion. The dorsal and anal fins also dwarf the caudal fin.

The tail fin, on the other hand, is round and much thinner than the other fins but the shape may vary. The pectoral fins are quite short and often almost see-through.

Flowerhorns also have quite a lumpy ‘chin’ area that extends right to the ventral fins. This feature is much more prominent in males.

Male Flowerhorns also have more brightly colored, pearlized scales. The female Flowerhorn will be an inch or two smaller than the male.

The unusual patterns of Flowerhorns evolve and change as the juvenile fish grow into adulthood. Once this critter reaches mature size, the patterns are set. This means that you may not know what you’re getting if you choose a juvenile fish. Most will end up with horizontal black stripes, however.

The eyes of these aquatic pets are quite prominent. The King Kamfa variety have white or yellow eyes.

How Big Can They Get?

Flowerhorn Cichlids are a large fish species. These aquarium fish can grow to about 12 to 16 inches (30.4-40.6cm) depending on the variant. It’s important to know the average size of your adult. The size will affect everything from Flowerhorn Cichlid care, tank mates, and even the aquarium setup.

How Long Do They Live?

Flowerhorns can live around 10 to 12 years. For this reason, it is quite important that you’re ready for a long-term commitment. The lifespan of your fish can drastically vary depending on the care you provide.

If your fish is constantly exposed to poor water quality or set up in an unsuitable aquarium, you can expect a sickly, short-lived fish.

What Do They Eat?

Flowerhorn Cichlids are omnivorous. This means that you’ll need to feed meaty treats like brine shrimp, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, as well as some greens to keep your fish healthy. The best way to do this is to feed a healthy pellet-based diet for omnivorous fish with some added treats.

Feeding a Flowerhorn Cichlid is fairly easy as long as you get the balance right. Due to these fish being so large, they have quite a big apatite. These freshwater fish will quite happily feed on just about anything that ends up in the tank.

If you’re unsure which meaty treats your fish can eat, consider adding the following foods:

Brine shrimp
Shrimp
Bloodworms
Mosquito larvae
Earthworms
Other aquatic worms
Fish fillet
Dried crickets
Dried grasshoppers
Krill

What you feed will depend on the size of your fish. Small treats like brine shrimps are for small fish. Bigger fish can have bigger snacks like earthworms.

For greens, you can consider adding the following vegetables:

Boiled peas (No shells)
Zucchini
Shredded lettuce
Cucumber

Give Them Live Foods

To keep your fish in tip-top shape, it is best to feed both live and frozen foods. Live foods, like mosquito larvae, will provide your fish with some entertainment. Hunting these creatures will also appeal to the foraging instincts of your Flowerhorn Cichlid.

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

It is best to feed your Flowerhorn Cichlid just enough to finish the food within five minutes after feeding. If you notice any food left at the end of five minutes, consider reducing the amount fed.

Any food that is allowed to settle to the bottom of the tank will just stay there to rot. This reduces your water quality and will lead to ammonia spikes if you’re not careful.

On the other hand, if your fish isn’t fed enough, it will start to dig up plants, chew on the leaves and break the stems. To reduce this destructive behavior, make sure to feed your fish regularly.

Adult fish need to be fed around two to three times a day. Young fish need five to 10 feedings to help them grow. If your fish aren’t interested in every feeding, reduce the number of feeding per day.

Their Temperament and Behavior

Flowerhorn Cichlids have a reputation for being quite aggressive. For this reason, they don’t do so well in community tanks with other fish. If you keep these fish with other species, you can expect fights to break out quite often. Even when kept in tanks with others of their kind, their aggressive nature will often lead to fighting.

Funny enough, Flowerhorns do prefer to swim in pairs. Keeping a male and female together in the tank will often reduce aggression and lower the stress levels in the aquarium.

It is possible to add in a few tank mates for your Flowerhorns if you do some careful planning. It’s an idea to keep them with peaceful fish of a similar size.

These Cichlids also won’t just stay in one layer of the tank. You can expect to see your fish moving up and down the water column as they, please. They will also claim territories in the aquarium which can lead to fighting. This is why it is very important to have enough space if you’re planning on having more than one Flowerhorn Cichlid in the tank.

If you’re planning a planted aquarium, you’ll also need to do some planning. These fish aren’t the best when it comes to living plants. They will often dig up the plants and even eat them. To avoid this, make sure to feed your fish correctly and plant unpalatable specimens that don’t require the substrate to thrive in your tank.

Tank Mates

Flowerhorn Cichlid tank mates aren’t easy to find. , these fish don’t do so well in a tank set up with other aquarium fish. Their aggressive nature and territorial tendencies will get in the way.

Fortunately, there are a few suitable tank mates out there. It will also help to select a large tank to reduce possible aggressive behavior. Before you select tank mates, keep the following guidelines in mind:

Avoid other species of aggressive fish. Choosing fish with peaceful dispositions is best.
Avoid slow-moving fish. Any species that gets selected must be able to escape any conflict.
Avoid shrimp and snails, they will definitely only serve as a great snack for your fish.
Avoid fish that are significantly smaller than your Flowerhorns. They will end up as snacks and targets for aggression rather than Flowerhorn tank mates.
Any tank mate you select must be big enough to hold its own and be fast enough to swim away when the need arises.

If you’re still considering getting some friends for your fish, keep the lists below in mind.

Best Tank Mates for Them

It can get quite frustrating to select some fishy friends for your giant terrors. To make it a bit easier, consider the following species:

Another Flowerhorn Cichlid (Best choice)
Sailfin Plecos
Leopard Plecos
Bichir (Go big to avoid problems)
Silver Arowana
Bristlenose Plecos
Jaguar Cichlids
Common Plecos
Clown Plecos
Giant Gourami
Lowland Cichlids
Spotted Hope
Armored Catfish
Oscar Cichlids

Least Compatible Fish for Them

Any aggressive fish species besides other Cichlids
Very small fish like Rasboras
Shrimps of any kind
Snails of any kind
Danios
Tetras
Livebearers
Betta fish
Loaches
Red-Tailed Sharks
Rainbow Sharks
Iridescent Sharks
Goldfish
Koi
Bala Sharks
Angelfish

Care

Despite being a manmade fish, the Flowerhorn Cichlid is quite hardy and fairly easy to care for. If keeping fish is new to you, you shouldn’t have any problems, but having some experience is better. New fish keepers are often put off by the required tank size as well.

Flowerhorns are big fish. They are also quite aggressive and messy. This can complicate things when it comes to keeping other fish with your Flowerhorn. You’ll also need to do regular maintenance to keep the tank clean and the water conditions perfect.

Tank Requirements

Flowerhorns need quite big aquariums to satisfy their territorial needs. You will also need some decorations in your tank setup to keep them out of trouble.

Unfortunately, it’s impossible to know exactly what these fish prefer in terms of habitat since they were bred in captivity. In other fish species, you may set up the aquarium with plants or lots of rocks to mimic the natural habitat of that specific freshwater fish. In this case, your guess is as good as mine when it comes to tank decorations.

Despite not having a natural habitat, you can still create a stunning home for your pet. Here’s what you need to know.

Tank Size

To keep your fish healthy and stress-free, you will need at least a 75-gallon tank. These are very messy fish so if you can go bigger, go for it. Bigger tanks will prevent sudden changes in water parameters due to rotting fish waste and uneaten food.

If you’re thinking of keeping a breeding pair in the same tank, make sure to allocate at least 150 gallons to these fish. The bigger the tank, the less likely it will be for them to show aggression due to territorial battles. If you want a tank with different Cichlid species or other fish in it, make sure to give them a tank with a minimum volume of 215 gallons to prevent aggression.

Tank Setup

Setting up a Flowerhorn tank is really quite simple. After you’ve selected the tank you want, you will need to add a few things to create a suitable environment for your fish. Here are a few decor ideas to think about.

Plants

A Flowerhorn Cichlid does well in a tank with some added plants. Unfortunately, they do will dig up plants from the substrate. It’s best to keep them in tanks with plants that prefer to grow on other objects like driftwood and rocks with their roots exposed.

If possible, also select plants that aren’t the most palatable. Flowerhorns are omnivores and will nibble on your plants from time to time. A few live plants you can consider are Anubias Nana and Java Fern. Be prepared for some casualties, however, since these big fish will damage some of your plants.

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Substrate

By now you probably noticed that Flowerhorns love to dig around in the substrate. For this reason, it is very important to choose something safe to put at the bottom of your tank.

The best substrate will be sand or large tiles without any sharp edges. Sand allows the fish to dig to its heart’s content without the risk of injury. Avoid coarse gravel. The substrate is often ingested during digging which may lead to impaction if the grains are too large.

Some aquarium enthusiasts prefer to have a bare bottom tank. Bare tanks are very easy to clean and also completely remove the likelihood of impaction due to substrate ingestion.

Decor

To create a bit more structure in the tank, you can add large heavy rocks or driftwood to your tank. Just make sure that the items you add are large and heavy enough to not be knocked over by your fish. If you can, secure any decorations to the bottom of the tank.

Water Quality and Filtration

Flowerhorns prefer clean water in their tanks. They are quite sensitive to pollutants which means regular water changes are necessary to keep them healthy. It is also best to have a moderate flow in the tank to circulate oxygen and remove toxins.

Filtration

Flowerhorns are very messy. For this reason, they need a strong filtration system to help maintain the correct water parameters. Your filter should produce a moderate flow to circulate water around the aquarium.

A canister filter is an excellent choice when it comes to these Cichlids. It will create the correct flow while removing any solids from the water. It will also help to remove toxins by allowing beneficial bacteria to grow in the filter media. The Fluval FX Series is designed for large fish like Flowerhorns.

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Water Parameters

Despite being quite hardy fish, you will still need to keep an eye on the water conditions to keep them healthy. Here’s a quick breakdown of the parameters for Flowerhorn Cichlids:

Water Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°c)
pH: 6.5-7.8
GH: 161-358ppm (9-20 dGH)
kH: 54-107ppm (3-6 dKH)
Ammonia (NH3): 0 ppm
Nitrite (NO2-): 0 ppm
Nitrate (NO3-): <20 ppm

Aquarium Maintenance

Since Flowerhorns are such slobs, it is very important to do regular aquarium maintenance. You should do weekly water changes and replace at least 20% of the aquarium water. On top of that, you can do monthly water changes of up to 70% of the total volume of water.

Doing these water changes will remove solid waste and excess nitrates in the water. Nitrates may not be dangerous in small quantities, but they will become toxic in large amounts.

Testing Tank Conditions

To keep your fish health excellent, make sure to do weekly water tests. To achieve this you will need a water test kit. The ideal kit will test all the water parameters except for the temperature in your tank. For that, you will need a thermometer.

Breeding

Breeding these fish is very difficult. Fertile specimens are extremely rare in this hybrid breed. A fish keeper also needs to wait for around 8-10 months or even longer before they can test breed their male and up to 2 years for a female. For this reason, it becomes very frustrating trying to breed these Cichlids.

If you still insist on breeding them, you’ll need a breeding tank and some knowledge.

Sexing

Male and female Flowerhorns are quite easy to tell apart. Males are around one to two inches bigger than females. They are also more brightly colored.

You can also expect a V-shaped vent on the male where the female has a U-shaped vent. The most prominent difference is the nuchal hump. Males will have massive nuchal humps while a female has no hump or just a very small protrusion.

It is difficult to sex juveniles so make sure to buy from an experienced breeder to be sure.

Getting Your Fish Ready to Breed

You don’t need to do anything special to prepare your fish for breeding. Simply place them in a breeding tank with a similar size to their normal tank. If the male is too aggressive, use a divider that allows water flow between the male and female. This should encourage breeding as soon as the divider is removed.

Your breeding tank will function as both a spawning tank as well as a fry tank.

The Breeding Process

During the breeding process (video source), the female Flowerhorn will lay around 900 eggs on a smooth surface somewhere in the tank. The male will then swim over and fertilize the eggs.

Once fertilization has taken place you can remove the female. The male Flowerhorn will care for the eggs until they hatch. Once the fry hatched, you can also remove the male.

Caring For Fry

Caring for the fry is quite simple. It is best to feed the fry with live food like brine shrimps to help them grow. You will need to do this 5 to 10 times per day to keep up with their ferocious appetite and nutrient needs.

Once they turn 6 months old, you should be able to sex your offspring and separate them into different grow-out tanks.

Health And Disease

You’ll be happy to know that Flowerhorns aren’t susceptible to any particular disease. Unfortunately, there are still a few things you should be aware of. Let’s take a look at your Cichlid’s health.

Evaluating Their Health

It’s very important to keep an eye on these amazing creatures. Fortunately, it’s quite obvious when your pet isn’t feeling so well. Look out for the following red flags:

Reduced apatite
Obvious sores on the body
Reduced activity level
Change in normal behavior

Common Health Issues

These Cichlids are amazingly healthy pets. This doesn’t mean they are completely immune against diseases, however. Here are a few health issues you should be aware of:

Mechanical health issues

Due to these fish being so aggressive, you can expect a few injuries every now and then. These shouldn’t be a huge problem unless they affect the fish’s ability to swim. Injuries can also happen during the exploration of the tank and while digging through the substrate.

Avoid these issues by checking the tank for any sharp objects and providing a large enough aquarium to avoid conflict.

Ich shows up as white spots on the body and gills of your aquatic pet. Make sure to treat this disease immediately to prevent serious complications. To understand ich better, take a look at this article.

Hole-in-the-head disease

This disease looks like holes in the nuchal hump of your fish. Fortunately, it is curable, but some scarring will remain. Treat this problem by doing daily water changes and removing any activated carbon in your tank until the water conditions improve.

Where to Buy

Flowerhorn Cichlids are quite popular. They is found in almost any aquarium shop around the world. Unfortunately, these hybrid species are not cheap to obtain. The average price they go for is around $35 for just one fish. To get the best of the best, you will need to venture to an online fish store, connect with breeders locally, or at tradeshows.

FAQS

How much do they cost?

On average, the Flowerhorn costs around $35 per fish. If you buy a juvenile, the costs is slightly lower.

How big do they get?

Flowerhorns can grow to around 12 to 16 inches (30.4-40.6cm) depending on the strain.

When do they get their hump?

Flowerhorns only grow humps under the right conditions. Most juveniles should start to develop their characteristic appearance at around 6 months old.

Can they live with African Cichlids?

Yes, but there is always the risk of conflict. Make sure the tank is big enough if you want to attempt this.

Is the Flowerhorn Cichlid Right for You?

Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

Perfect if you want a pet fish, not just an aquarium. Flowerhorns recognize their owners, beg for food, and develop distinct personalities that rival any pet.
Not for small tank keepers. You need 75 gallons minimum for a single flowerhorn, and bigger is always better with these fish.
Great if you enjoy a species-only setup. Most flowerhorns do best as the sole fish in their tank, so if you like the idea of one showpiece fish, this is your species.
Skip if you’re on a tight budget. Between the large tank, heavy filtration, and high-protein diet, flowerhorns are expensive to maintain compared to most freshwater fish.
Ideal for keepers who want interaction. These fish will play with you through the glass, follow you around the room, and learn feeding routines within days.
Not suitable for community setups. Unless you have 150+ gallons and experience managing aggressive cichlids, plan on keeping them alone.

How the Flowerhorn Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

Flowerhorns are often compared to oscars, and it’s an understandable comparison. Both are large, personable cichlids that become genuine pets. But they’re different fish in practice. Oscars are messy eaters that need excellent filtration but are less aggressive toward tank mates of similar size. Flowerhorns take aggression to another level. An oscar will chase a tank mate; a flowerhorn will kill one. Oscars also grow slightly larger (up to 14 inches vs. 12 for most flowerhorns) and are less expensive to acquire. If you want a big, interactive pet fish and plan to keep it with other large cichlids, the oscar is the safer choice. If you want a single showpiece fish with maximum visual impact and don’t mind a solo setup, the flowerhorn is hard to beat.

The red devil cichlid is one of the parent species used in flowerhorn breeding, so the comparison is natural. Red devils are pure species with their own charm. They’re slightly less flashy but arguably more authentic. They share the flowerhorn’s aggression and need for space, but they lack the exaggerated nuchal hump that makes flowerhorns so distinctive. Red devils can also be kept in pairs for breeding, which is something flowerhorns (as hybrids) can’t do as reliably.

What It Is Actually Like Living With Flowerhorn Cichlid

Living with a flowerhorn is the closest thing to keeping a pet that also wants to fight you. You walk into the room and the fish follows you, pressing against the glass, flaring, displaying. You put your finger near the tank and it charges. You reach in for maintenance and it bites you. Not a nip. A bite with intent. You learn to respect the fish, and in return, it gives you a level of interaction that no other freshwater species can match.

The tank will never look the way you set it up. Substrate gets piled into mounds. Decorations get shoved into corners. Heaters get knocked sideways. You stop fighting it and start securing equipment with suction cups rated for industrial use. The flowerhorn wins every decorating argument. Every single time.

Feeding is a performance. The fish sees the food container and goes into a frenzy. It slams into the surface, grabs pellets with force, and makes a mess. Visitors are either fascinated or slightly alarmed. The flowerhorn does not care either way. It is the undisputed center of attention in whatever room it occupies, and it knows it.

Closing Thoughts

A flowerhorn does not coexist. It dominates or it destroys.

Flowerhorn fish is very popular in the aquarium trade. They are fairly easy to keep as long as you do regular tank maintenance to keep the water quality pristine. It is also important to monitor the water temperature to keep them healthy.

If you have any questions, please comment below.

November 6, 2021

Order	Perciformes
Family	Labridae
Common Name	Wrasses
Species Count	Over 600 species across 82 genera

Author: Mark Valderrama

15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types: The Complete Guide for Saltwater Aquariums

Table of Contents

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums

Introduction To Wrasses

Are All of Them Born Female?

Classification

Requirements And Temperament

Are They Aggressive?

Are They Hard To Keep?

Types

The Best 15 For Saltwater Tanks

Fully Reef Safe

1. Blue Striped Tamarin (Anampses femininus)

2. Flame (Cirrhilabrus jordani)

3. Scott’s Fairy (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)

4. Red-Headed Solon Fairy (Cirrhilabrus solorensis)

5. Yellow Banded Possum (Wetmorella nigropinnata)

6. McCosker’s Flasher (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)

7. Carpenter’s (Paracheilinus carpenteri)

8. Filamented Flasher (Paracheilinus filamentosus)

Partially Reef-Safe

9. Yellow Coris (Halichoeres chrysus)

10. Melanurus (Halichoeres melanurus)

11. Christmas (Halichoeres claudia)

12. Red-Line (Halichoeres biocellatus)

13. Six-Line (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)

14. Eight-Line (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia)

15. Small Tail Pencil (Pseudojuloides cerasinus)

Other Types (To Avoid)

1. Bird

2. Dragon

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the most reef-safe wrasse?

Do wrasses jump out of the tank?

How big do reef-safe wrasses get?

Can you keep multiple wrasses together?

Do wrasses eat pests?

Expert Take

The Reality of Keeping Wrasses

Is the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Right for You?

How the 15 Reef-Safe Wrasse Types for Saltwater Aquariums Compares to Similar Species

Final Thoughts

Worms In Fish Tank – ID Guide for the 4 Main Types

4 Types of Aquarium Worms

1. Detritus

Appearance

Where They Occur

Causes

Treatment Options

2. Planaria

Appearance

Where They Occur

Causes

Treatment Options

3. Anchor

Appearance

Where They Occur

Causes

Treatment Options

4. Camallanus

Appearance

Where They Occur

Causes

Treatment Options

Removal & Treatment

How To Avoid Introducing Them

Maintaining Good Water Quality

Using A Gravel Vacuum

Using A Trap

Introducing Predatory Fish

Chemical Treatment

FAQs

Final Thoughts

7 Best Plants For Goldfish Tanks – Species That Actually Survive

Why Planting a Goldfish Tank Is Harder Than It Looks

Temperature

Plant Placement

High Nutrient Loads

They Will Eat Most Plants

**1. Blue Striped Tamarin (Anampses femininus)**

**2. Flame (Cirrhilabrus jordani)**

**3. Scott’s Fairy (Cirrhilabrus scottorum)**

**5. Yellow Banded Possum (Wetmorella nigropinnata)**

**6. McCosker’s Flasher (Paracheilinus mccoskeri)**

**7. Carpenter’s (Paracheilinus carpenteri)**

**8. Filamented Flasher (Paracheilinus filamentosus)**

**9. Yellow Coris (Halichoeres chrysus)**

**10. Melanurus (Halichoeres melanurus)**

**11. Christmas (Halichoeres claudia)**

**12. Red-Line (Halichoeres biocellatus)**

**13. Six-Line (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia)**

**14. Eight-Line (Pseudocheilinus octotaenia)**

**15. Small Tail Pencil (Pseudojuloides cerasinus)**

**5. Crinum calamistratum (African Onion Plant)**

***Acanthurus spp.* & *Paracanthurus spp.***

**1. Yellow (Zebrasoma flavescens)**

**2. Purple (Zebrasoma xanthurum)**

**3. Gem (Zebrasoma gemmatum)**

**4. Sailfin (Zebrasoma desjardini)**

**5. Scopas (Zebrasoma scopas)**

**6. Black (Zebrasoma rostratum)**

**7. Kole (Ctenochaetus strigosus)**

**8. Tomini (Ctenochaetus tominiensis)**

**9. Hippo (Paracanthurus hepatus)**

**10. Powder Blue (Acanthurus leucosternon)**

**11. Powder Brown (Acanthurus japonicus)**

**12. Clown (Acanthurus lineatus)**

**13. Sohal (Acanthurus sohal)**

**14. Naso (Naso lituratus)**

**15. Unicorn (Naso brevirostris, Naso unicornis)**