Author: Mark Valderrama

7 Best 10 Gallon Fish Tanks – Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

The 10 gallon is probably the most popular beginner tank size in the hobby. it’s widely available, affordable, and gives you just enough room to create something interesting. I’ve owned 10 gallon tanks at various points over 25 years and have watched the quality of all-in-one kits improve dramatically. They work great for bettas, small community setups, shrimp, and easy planted tanks. The main thing to know is that not all 10 gallon tanks are equal. filtration quality and build durability vary a lot between the budget options and the better kits.

Mark’s Expert Take

The 10-gallon is the most popular tank size I sold in 25 years of retail, and it’s also the most commonly returned. That’s not a coincidence. It’s enough room to build something meaningful, but small enough that mistakes compound fast. A cycled 10-gallon with a proper stocking plan is a great beginner tank. An uncycled 10-gallon stuffed with fish from a big-box store is a death sentence. I’ve seen both versions hundreds of times. The tank is not the problem. The setup and stocking decisions are.

Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot.com | 25+ years in the hobby

Mark’s Expert Take

Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot.com | 25+ years in the hobby

What Is The Best 10 Gallon Aquarium (Our Criteria)

I’ve owned 10 gallon aquariums and see the evolution in the industry. There are simple aquariums and fully decked out all in one systems. Here is what I used to determine the best.

Why Ranking #1 Matters for a 10-Gallon Tank

Not all 10-gallon tanks are built the same. Here’s what I weigh when separating the best from the rest:

Glass vs. acrylic clarity: Glass stays crystal clear for years. Acrylic scratches easily and yellows over time.
Included filtration quality: Does the kit filter actually cycle properly, or is it a cartridge trap that locks you into expensive media replacements?
Heater wattage: A 10-gallon needs 50 to 100 watts. Undersized heaters fail to hold temp when ambient drops.
Lid gap: Small fish are escape artists. Bettas especially. A lid with large gaps around cables is an accident waiting to happen.
Build quality: Rimless tanks at this size should still have clean seams and thick enough glass not to bow under water pressure.
Customer support and warranty: Leaks happen. Companies that stand behind their product are worth the price premium.

Why Ranking #1 Matters for a 10-Gallon Tank

Not all 10-gallon tanks are built the same. Here’s what I weigh when separating the best from the rest:

Glass vs. acrylic clarity, Glass stays crystal clear for years. Acrylic scratches easily and yellows over time.
Included filtration quality, Does the kit filter actually cycle properly, or is it a cartridge trap that locks you into expensive media replacements?
Heater wattage, A 10-gallon needs 50 to 100 watts. Undersized heaters fail to hold temp when ambient drops.
Lid gap, Small fish are escape artists. Bettas especially. A lid with large gaps around cables is an accident waiting to happen.
Build quality, Rimless tanks at this size should still have clean seams and thick enough glass not to bow under water pressure.
Customer support and warranty, Leaks happen. Companies that stand behind their product are worth the price premium.

Aquarium Layout

Everyone wants a rimless aquarium. I’m primarily going to be looking at this style of fish tank because you can rimless tanks at this size at an affordable price. It’s way too easy to point out a discount fish tank kit. You didn’t come here for that, you came here for high quality and style.

Filtration

Several of these aquariums are going to be all in one tanks compete with a 3 stage filtration system. For kits, I want to make sure I find a glass aquarium kit with a decent starter filter that you won’t outgrow or will fall apart on you. If it is a basic fish tank, I want to make sure it’s the right dimensions to allow for multiple filter setups.

Lighting

Some of these aquariums will come with lighting systems. If they do, I want to lean on systems that can support low light aquarium plants if they are designed for freshwater tanks or soft corals if they are designed for saltwater.

Price

Price is always a factor in any aquarium build. I’m looking at a price of aquariums here from high end to the most basic. If it’s priced high, I want to make sure it has premium features like being rimless or including a good light. If it is priced low, I want to make the aquarium will last.

Buy or Skip?

Buy a quality 10-gallon if you’re setting up:

A betta tank (10 gallons is the real minimum, not 5)
A small community with nano fish, shrimp, or a single pair of dwarf cichlids
A planted tank where you want clean lines without a heavy footprint
A quarantine or grow-out tank that pulls double duty

Skip the all-in-one kit if it has:

A cartridge-only filter (you’ll spend more on media than the tank cost)
A cheap plastic heater with no thermostat
A light barely bright enough to support Java moss
No customer support worth calling

Upgrade the filtration on any all-in-one kit that uses cartridge-only filtration. It’s the single most important change you can make.

Buy or Skip?

Buy a quality 10-gallon if you’re setting up:

A betta tank (10 gallons is the real minimum, not 5)
A small community with nano fish, shrimp, or a single pair of dwarf cichlids
A planted tank where you want clean lines without a heavy footprint
A quarantine or grow-out tank that pulls double duty

Skip the all-in-one kit if it has:

A cartridge-only filter (you’ll spend more on media than the tank cost)
A cheap plastic heater with no thermostat
A light barely bright enough to support Java moss
No customer support worth calling

Upgrade the filtration on any all-in-one kit that uses cartridge-only filtration. It’s the single most important change you can make.

The 10 Gallon Aquarium Candidates

Below is the list of aquariums that made the cut. They are from various price ranges and cover both freshwater and saltwater tanks. I’ll go over each one in detail.

In a hurry? I recommend Serene Aquariums!

Picture	Name	Features	Link
Editor’s Choice	Serene Aquarium	Comes with light Frosted background Rimless	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Waterbox 10 CLEAR Mini	Rimless Great Value	Click For Best Price
Budget Option	Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium Kit	All In One Kit Price	Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy
	Water Box Nano	Built In Filtration Great For Nano Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Fusion Pro 10	All In One Aquarium Rimless Great For Nano Reefs	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Dennerle 10G Shrimp Tank	Gentle Filter Shrimp Tanks	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Aqueon 10 Gallon Tank	Cheap Easy to Find	Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

The 7 Best (2023 Reviews)

You have seen the list, now it’s time to learn more about each fish tank. Let’s look at each one below.

1. Serene Aquariums

Mark’s Top Pick

Serene Aquarium

This is the tank I’d put in front of any first-time aquascaper. The frosted background hides cords and equipment clutter, the rimless design looks clean from every angle, and it ships with dragonstone rock so you’re not starting from zero. The included light handles low to medium light plants without complaint. You’ll still want to add a quality sponge filter or small canister, but the tank itself is built right. No flex, no cheap seams, and the glass clarity holds up over time. It’s the upgrade beginners don’t know they need until they’ve used one.

Mark’s Top Pick

Serene Aquarium

The perfect first time aquascaper tank. Comes with dragonstone rock. Just add filtration and plants!

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Current USA’s Serene aquariums are a new entrant into rimless aquariums, but it’s one of the best freshwater focused kits you can buy today. What I love the most about this aquarium is they design it so you can have a low maintenance tank. It comes with a frosted background that is backlit. This is a feature you don’t get with any fish tank manufacturer. In fact, to get similar, you would have to purchase a background and lighting system from ADA, which is as much as this tank! The frosted background is the perfect color for freshwater aquascapes.

The light that comes with this aquarium is Current USA’s Serene line. While it is not the Pro RBG light, it is still good enough to grow lots of low light plants. The Serene light has a ton of features. See the video below from Current USA to see some of the features below.

This is a rimless aquarium with a very good price. You get a 13 gallon fish tank (yes, it’s slightly better than 10 gallons, but I felt it’s close enough to be on this list), the Serene light, a frost background, and you even get some decorations. This aquarium is a stand-alone tank that is a better quality offering than some of the all-in-one aquariums you will see like the Waterbox or Innovative Marine. It is also designed for freshwater aquascaping versus reef tanks.

Current USA has several aquascaping packages to choose from. The one I linked to is the dragonstone package. They also have a Manzanita and a planted package. You can chose these other packages and get the aquascaped look without live plants.

The main cons with this package is the price. It is on the pricey side, but there also is a nice 15% offer you can get from me to help with the price (use offer code ASD15).It is also missing a filtration unit. I would either use a canister filter or opt with OASE’s Bioplus Thermo. It’s a great buy and highly recommended!

Best For, Freshwater Tanks, Aquascapes

Pros

Comes with light
Frosted background
Comes with decor

Cons

Expensive
Light is best for low light plants

2. Waterbox 10 CLEAR Mini

Best Value

Waterbox 10 Mini

The Waterbox 10 Mini offers a great rimless tank at a great price. Perfect for a mini aquascape!

Click For Best Price

When you are looking for a rimless aquarium only, the Waterbox 10 Mini offers an excellent price to get into a high clarity fish tank. Waterbox is really putting in efforts to penetrate the freshwater hobby with this well priced package. They are well known for their great all in one aquariums that comes with aquarium sumps and easy to install plumbing.

The CLEAR aquarium is roughly the same dimensions as your standard 10 gallon tank. The straight edged silicone gives the glass aquarium a seamless look. You won’t see ugly silicone on the edges of your aquarium or a plastic rim. The aquarium comes with a self leveling mat, so you do not need to purchase your own. Waterbox also offers cabinets, though they pretty expensive. The Serene offers more equipment, a background, and decorations, but the CLEAR is cheaper and gives you the freedom to buy your own gear.

In looking at the Clear aquarium, I like the design and simplicity. I prefer this name brand over similar offerings I’ve found on Amazon, and the customer support with Waterbox is pretty responsive in my opinion.

If you are looking for a pure rimless aquarium with a great brand behind it, this is the aquarium to get. It is more expensive as a traditional rimmed tank, but it looks a lot better and well suited for planted tanks.

Pros

Rimless
Good price
Quality brand

Cons

Tank only
No background

Best For, Freshwater Tanks, Aquascapes

3. Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium Kit

Budget Option

Aqueon 10 Gallon Kit

Buy On Amazon

Buy On Petco

It would be really easy for me to place Aqueon’s standard 10 gallon tank as the budget pick here, but I felt Aqueon’s aquarium starter kit is a great budget option. This is because Aqueon takes the guesswork away from select equipment and most of the equipment they offer in the package is pretty good.

The package comes with the standard fish tank, a hood with standard LED light, Aqueon’s power filter, a heater, a fish net, themometer, water conditioner, and some sample fish food. You save a bit of money purchasing this package over buying everything separately. I feel the overall quality of the package is better than most other 10 gallon glass aquarium kits, including the Marina led aquarium kit, Tetra’s, and generic brand competitors.

The main separator between Aqueon’s offering and the others is the power filter. Aqueon’s filter is a true 3 stage filter and as a feature that tells you when you should change the filter cartridge. The hood is good, though not ideal for planted tanks. The heater is decent in quality. I’ve personally used these heaters for quarantine tanks and never had an issue. The main thing I don’t like about the preset heater is that you can’t adjust it, it is designed to keep temperatures at 78 degrees.

Overall, this is a great fish only starter package if you are looking for good equipment and stress free selection.

Pros

Complete kit
Good price
Quality brand

Cons

Rimmed tank
Okay heater

Best For, Freshwater Tanks

4. Water Box Nano

Waterbox Nano

A classy rimless nano reef tank that won’t break the bank! Great design with a well design all in one chamber

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Are you looking for a nano reef tank? If so, The Water Box Nano is an excellent choice at the 10 gallon aquarium size. This all-in-one fish tank offers a built in filtration system, return pump, black background, and rimless style aquarium.

The cubed dimensions of this aquarium allow for more aquascaping space then a regular 10 gallon. The built in filtration unit is large enough to house an auto top off system and aquarium heater. In my personal experience with dealing with this tank, they are prefer for softy nano reef setups. The filtration is basic enough for them and a simple lighting fixture is all you need.

There are a few things here that could be improved. The return pump isn’t that great and the price is on the higher end. However, if you want a better return pump, you can opt for the next option below.

Pros

Great all in one filter
Rimless
Built for nano reefs

Cons

Okay return pump
Expensive

Best For, Nano Reef Tanks

5. Innovative Marine Fusion Pro 10

Fusion Pro 10

A great all in one tank designed for saltwater. Comes with a high quality DC return pump

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Innovative marine is the originator of the modern all in one nano aquariums you see in the saltwater tank hobby. This Fusion Mini is their latest line of aquariums and really comes in offering premium features. It comes with a mesh lid and micro glass cleaner to keep your fish from jumping and algae a breeze to scrape. It has superior features, build quality, and a higher price compared to the Waterbox.

The return pump included is Innovative’s Might Jet DC pump. This DC pump is one of the best DC pumps you can put into a nano reef tank. With its adjustable features, you can adjust the flow to suit whatever corals you plan to keep.

This package is what I call a premium package and commands a premium price. It’s the most expensive fish tank on this list. If you are looking or the best nano reef tank at this size, this is the aquarium to purchase. My personal recommendation is purchase this over the Waterbox if you want more than soft corals. I’ve worked on LPS and mixed reef tanks from this line and seen plenty of successful setups.

Pros

Manufacturer designs upgrades for tank
Rimless
Built for nano reefs

Cons

Expensive

Best For, Nano Reef Tanks

6. Dennerle Shrimp Aquarium

Dennerle 10G Shrimp Tank

A great shrimp tank package. One of the few shrimp tanks equipped with a power filter!

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Looking for a freshwater shrimp tank? If so, this 10 gallon tank by Dennerle is a great option for a larger shrimp tank. This is aquarium is built for the purpose of keeping shrimp. Starting with the Eckfilter internal filter, this gentle filter can keep your fish tank clean while keeping your shrimp safe. The filter is simple, making it easy to clean and maintain. It also comes with a LED light with a color output of 6500K. While it is not the best-planted tank LED, it is adequate for low-light plants.

The aquarium itself is a rimless tank that is a bit wider than your standard ten-gallon aquarium. This allows you to play with the depth space and give your shrimp more space to run around in. The aquarium is built as a curved corner glass tank. Keep this in mind as this can give an odd look when looking at the corners.

My affiliate partner, Flip Aquatics loves these tanks for his customers. It offers a simple yet effective setup. This is a great tank if you are looking for a shrimp-only tank. If you are looking to build a community tank that includes freshwater shrimp, consider the Serene instead. They are more expensive to set up over the Dennerle, but you get a higher-quality glass tank and the option of installing better filtration.

Overall, the Dennerle, with its Eckfilter and LED lights great option for shrimps and offers a great overall value for everything it comes with. It has the functionality, is built for shrimps, and has better looks than rimmed glass aquariums. It’s a great first shrimp tank.

Pros

Built for freshwater shrimp
Gentle filter
Good price

Cons

Not good for community tanks
Expensive

Best For, Freshwater Shrimp Tanks

What Cheap Plastic Starter Kits Get Wrong

I’ve seen the inside of enough fish stores to know what kills beginner fish. It’s not the fish. It’s the kit. Here’s what budget plastic starter kits consistently miss:

Undersized filtration, A filter rated for 10 gallons on the box is usually rated for 10 gallons of empty water, not a tank with fish, substrate, and decoration displacing volume.
Cheap heaters with no thermostat accuracy, These run hot or cold, not the temperature printed on the dial. I’ve seen them swing 5 degrees off and cook fish.
Cartridge filter lock-in, The business model is the replacement cartridge. You toss the beneficial bacteria colony every time you swap the cartridge. That’s a nitrogen cycle reset in a box.
Weak lid design, Gaps around the filter intake and heater cord are a betta escape route. Small fish jump. Assume they will.
Light bars that can’t grow anything, Low-output strip lights look fine in the store and won’t keep a java fern alive under water.

What Cheap Plastic Starter Kits Get Wrong

I’ve seen the inside of enough fish stores to know what kills beginner fish. It’s not the fish. It’s the kit. Here’s what budget plastic starter kits consistently miss:

Undersized filtration: A filter rated for 10 gallons on the box is rated for 10 gallons of empty water, not a tank with fish, substrate, and decoration displacing volume.
Cheap heaters with no thermostat accuracy: These run hot or cold, not the temperature printed on the dial. I’ve seen them swing 5 degrees off and cook fish.
Cartridge filter lock-in: The business model is the replacement cartridge. You toss the beneficial bacteria colony every time you swap the cartridge. That’s a nitrogen cycle reset in a box.
Weak lid design: Gaps around the filter intake and heater cord are a betta escape route. Small fish jump. Assume they will.
Light bars that can’t grow anything: Low-output strip lights look fine in the store and won’t keep a java fern alive under water.

7. Aqueon Ten-Gallon Aquarium

Aqueon 10 Gallon Tank

Your standard 10 gallon tank. Goes on sale at local Petcos for cheap

Buy On Petco

Buy On Amazon

I left this aquarium for last. This is the aquarium you will typically see when you go to Petco or Petsmart’s dollar-per-gallon sale. While the price may be great at first impression, you can actually end up spending more than the Aqueon glass aquarium kit to build out a suitable system.

I included the links to go purchase this if you want. It’s cheap and Aqueon aquariums should last a long time. It is longer than most all-in-one aquariums (20” L x 10” W x 12” H).

It’s just not my first choice for building out a good-looking display tank. If you are looking for a classy rimless tank or want to do a premium setup, consider going with the other tanks on the list.

That’s not to say you can’t build a great-looking setup with this over the Serene tank. I’ve built plenty of great 10 gallon setups using these tanks from aqueon including community fish and betta fish tanks.

Pros

Cheap
Easy to Find
Standard Dimensions

Cons

Rimmed Tank
Bare bones

Best For, Freshwater Tanks

What Fish Can I Get For A 10 Gallon Fish Tank?

A common question when purchasing an aquarium at this size is what type of fish species can you put in these tanks. The preferred options would be nano fish like the following:

Guppy fish
Rasboras
Danios (White Cloud Minnows are great cold water fish)
Small Tetras
Freshwater Pea Puffers

If you want the most stunning fish you can buy at 10 gallon aquariums, I would recommend a betta fish. The link below is from Glass Aqua, which favors Plakat Betta fish. These types of betta are the best to purchase for larger tanks because they are more active, hardy, and can compete for fish food from other fish tank mates.

WYSIWYG Available!

Betta Fish

Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

Betta Fish are a top beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

Buy Premium Varieties

Buy On Petco Online

If you are looking at a nano reef tank, your options are going to be limited. The best fish to buy at 10 gallons would be:

Firefish Gobies
Clown Goby
Single Azure Damsel

Check out my full list of the best fish for 10 gallon tanks here.

How to Setup a 10 Gallon Fish Tank

Setting up a 10 gallon fish tank can be stressful if it is the first time for you. Luckily, it’s easier than you think if you are guided. For those of you who are video inclined, I provided a video below from Waterbox that explains their process of setting up their mini aquariums. I’ll go in more detail below.

Assuming you building everything with just an aquarium to start, you will need the follow to setup:

Filter
Heater (if going with tropical fish or marine fish)
Lighting
Decorations
Live Plants or Corals

Aquarium Filtration for 10 Gallon Fish Tanks

There are a ton of options for 10 gallon fish tanks. If you want to go with a canister filter, I would recommend the OASE Filtosmart 100. This is a mini version of their Biomaster Thermo, but small enough not to be over kill for this size.

You can try power filters, which are a great choice. My go to for power filters are Hagen Aquaclears. They do not display very well in rimless aquariums though.

Editor’s Choice

Hagen AquaClear

The Best Aquarium Power Filter

The worlds best selling and most reliable power filter on the market. Unchanged for years because it’s so reliable and versatile

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

For rimless aquarium options, I would consider an OASE BioPlus Internal Filter or Filtosmart 100. Either filtration system will get the job done.

Aquarium Heaters for 10 Gallon Aquariums

You want to have a quality heater in order to keep your tank temperatures stable. Consider a high quality brand like Eheim when shopping around. The heaters that come with OASE filters are also excellent choices. You can hook up your heater to a heater controller for added safety. Inkbird has a great line of controllers that have wifi capability. The controller comes with an app that you can download on your phone that sends you alerts.

Protects Against Heater Failure!

Inkbird Heater Controller

Protect your investment with this heater controller. An excellent choice for small tanks. WiFi models now available!

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

Aquarium Lighting for 10 Gallon Aquariums

Lighting can be basic or advanced depending on what you are looking for. The great thing is at this size there are two great choice depending on whether you go freshwater or saltwater. More options are led lighting systems.

For freshwater, the Serene RGB Pros are a great value and will grow just about any freshwater plant available in the hobby. It comes with a great controller and adjustable features

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

For saltwater aquariums, the AI Prime is the best light you can purchase for nano reef tanks. Just buy this light and you can grow just about anything short of hardcore SPS corals. They work amazing for Zoas, a very popular beginner coral.

Great For Zoas

AquaIllumination AI Prime

The AI Prime is a great overall all light for Zoas. It contains the correct, PAR, spectrum, and spread needed to get you going with growing your own Zoa colony!

Buy On Amazon

Click For Best Price

Decorations for 10 Gallon Aquariums

For a 10 gallon aquarium. I prefer to go with a solid piece of driftwood and decorate from there. Manzanita driftwood offers a great value, has low tannins, and has a reasonable price. You can also use plastic plants or silk plants if you want to use artificial plants as decorations.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

Click For Best Price

Click For Branch Pieces

For saltwater tanks, I would consider purchase live rock at your local fish store. These tanks are so small you really don’t need much to get started. A 5 to 7 pound rock is all you need. Fill the rest up with dry rock.

Live Plants or Corals for 10 Gallon Fish Tanks

Beginner plants are the best plants to add for a 10 gallon fish tank. The following are great plants you can add to your tropical fish tank:

All the plants above feed off the aquarium water column, so you can glue them to driftwood. If you are looking for a quality live plant seller, considering buying from an online retailer like Buce Plant.

My Pick

Buce Plant

Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!

Click For More Info

FAQs

What Fish Are Good In A 10 Gallon Tank?

On the freshwater side, nano fish like guppies, rasboras, danios, small tetras, and corydoras catfish all make excellent choices. A single male betta is also a great choice.

On the saltwater side, nano reef fish like firefish gobies, clown goby, or an azure damsel would work. Note for a 10 gallon tank, you will likely only be able to house 1 or 2 saltwater fish depending on the aggression levels of the fish. Clownfish are generally too large for 10 gallon fish tanks

How many fish can a 10 gallon tank support?

If the fish are small schooling fish, 4-6 small freshwater fish can be housed in a 10 gallon tank with proper filtration and shelter from decorations (or even better live plants)

Is A 10 Gallon Tank Good?

A 10 gallon tank is a great first timer’s fish tank if it is setup as a freshwater aquarium and the filtration system is of good quality. While not as stable as a 20 or 40 gallon tank, you can still enjoy success with this size tank.

On the saltwater side, a 10 gallon tank is considered at the low end of a nano reef tank. These tanks can be a challenge to maintain and keep stable.

Is A 10 Gallon Tank Hard To Maintain?

Definitely not. A 10 gallon tank will have one of the lowest maintenance commitments due to its size. You sacrifice stability for maintenance time with small tanks. As long as you keep your stocking reasonable and

Is A 10 gallon Fish Tank Big?

10 gallon tanks aren’t that big in size. The standard dimensions of a 10 gallon tank is 20″ x 10″ x 12″. Most rimless and all in one aquariums will actually be built with shorter lengths to accommodate a smaller footprint on a desk or countertop. You shouldn’t have any trouble finding a place for it in your home or office.

How much would a 10 gallon tank cost?

A basic 10 gallon tank will be about $20-$25 per gallon or $200-$250 to setup for a freshwater tank. For a saltwater tank, expect to pay $40-$60 per gallon or $400-$600. You can definitely pay less than what I’m suggesting, however, keep in mind the ranges I throw out are for higher quality setups not discount store kits which tend to have low quality equipment that will not last.

Closing Thoughts

The 10-gallon is forgiving enough to learn on and small enough to actually manage. Give it a proper nitrogen cycle, don’t overstock it, and it’ll run itself week to week with a water change and a quick wipe of the glass. I’ve seen beautifully planted 10-gallon tanks that outshine much larger setups. The tank size isn’t a limitation. The decisions you make inside it are.

Pick the right tank for what you’re building, upgrade the filtration if your kit came with cartridge-only, and cycle before you stock. Do those three things and you’re ahead of 80% of beginners I’ve watched struggle in store.

Questions? Drop them in the comments below and I’ll answer. Thanks for reading.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

January 10, 2022

15 Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank: How Many Can You Actually Keep?
The 10-gallon tank is one of the most popular starter sizes in the hobby and one of the most consistently misused. After 25 years of keeping fish and working at fish stores, I’ve watched this play out hundreds of times: someone grabs a 10-gallon starter kit, picks fish that look cool together at the store, and a few months later they’re losing fish and wondering what went wrong. The answer is almost always the same. They picked the wrong fish, added too many too fast, or both.

A 10-gallon tank is not a beginner tank for any fish. It’s a beginner tank for the RIGHT fish.

In this guide I’m walking you through 15 species that genuinely work in a 10-gallon, with real numbers on how many you can keep and an honest look at which fish are commonly oversold for this tank size.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

In 25 years in this hobby, the 10-gallon is the tank I’ve seen go wrong more than any other size. People hear “beginner tank” and assume that means forgiving. It’s the opposite. Ten gallons of water swings fast: temperature spikes, ammonia builds overnight, and a single overstocked week can wipe out everything you’ve built. The fish selection in a 10-gallon matters more than in any tank I’ve ever kept. Get a betta and do it right, or go with a tight nano school of chili rasboras or ember tetras in a planted setup. Those are the setups I’d stake money on. What I’d never recommend is mixing a betta with active schooling fish, cramming in community fish that grow to 3 inches, or skipping the cycle because “it’s only 10 gallons.” Especially that last one.

Top Picks
Editor’s Choice

Betta

Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online

Easy to care

Lot of breeds available

Easiest To Care For

White Cloud Mountain Minnow” data-lasso-lid=”1063222″>

White Cloud Minnow

Click For Best Price

No heater needed

Easy to care for

Most Unique

Pea Puffers

Click For Best Price

Species only

Personality
Let’s get straight to it. Bettas are my top choice because of the sheer variety available and their presence as display fish. White cloud minnows are the easiest to care for on this entire list: no heater required, they school, and they’re genuinely tough. Pea puffers are for hobbyists who want something unusual, but go in clear-eyed: they’re semi-aggressive and do best in a species-only setup in a small group.
How We Selected These Fish
1. Adult size: stays under 2.5 inches maximum
2. Bioload: low enough for a stable 10-gallon nitrogen cycle
3. Activity level: not so active that a small tank causes stress
4. Temperature tolerance: compatible with other fish in the list
5. Availability: findable at most LFS or reputable online suppliers
Is a 10-Gallon Right for These Fish?
Works Well

Betta as a solo display fish

Nano schooling fish in groups of 6+

Shrimp-only or shrimp-forward planted setup

Species-only setups for small, peaceful fish

Avoid in a 10-Gallon

Any fish that reaches 3+ inches as an adult

Active schooling fish like danios that need swimming room

Multiple male bettas or aggressive species

High-bioload fish like goldfish
What People Get Wrong About 10-Gallon Tanks

The biggest misconception about a 10-gallon is that it’s a low-commitment setup. It’s not. Small tanks are actually harder to maintain than larger ones because the water volume is so limited. Temperature swings happen faster. Ammonia spikes happen faster. One overfed day can spike ammonia overnight in a 10-gallon. In a 75-gallon tank, that same mistake barely registers on a test kit.

The second mistake I see constantly is selecting fish based on store size rather than adult size. That 1-inch tiger barb at the fish store becomes a 3-inch fin nipper with serious energy in six months. That fancy guppy pair becomes fifteen guppies in eight weeks because someone didn’t separate the sexes. These are the real 10-gallon problems, not the ones that show up in generic “how many fish” articles.

The third mistake: people stack species together that can’t actually coexist at this size. A betta with active neon tetras sounds fine on paper. In a 10-gallon with nowhere to retreat, the betta either hunts the tetras or the tetras stress the betta into fin rot. Both outcomes happen more than people want to admit.

The 15 Best Fish For 10 Gallon Tank

For each species below, I’ll give you the key stats, realistic stocking numbers, and an honest assessment of whether they actually belong in a 10-gallon or just get listed there because they’re small.

For each species, I’ll cover:
- Their scientific name
- Size when fully grown
- Care Level
- Temperament
- What they eat
- Where do they come from
- Temperature range
- Swimming level in the tank
1. Betta

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- Scientific Name: Betta splendens
- Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Aggressive
- Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
- Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
- Water Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
The betta fish is the single best display fish for a 10-gallon tank. One male betta, well-kept in a properly cycled tank with live plants, is as close to a perfect 10-gallon setup as this hobby offers. The tank won’t feel empty: bettas have more personality than most fish three times their size.

One male only. No exceptions. Two males in a 10-gallon will fight. A male betta with neon tetras or other active fish often ends in fin damage or constant stress for everyone involved. This fish defines the tank. Build around it, not alongside it.

Mark’s Top Pick for a 10-Gallon

For a display setup, a single male betta is my top pick. Period. No other fish delivers the combination of visual impact, personality, and manageability in a 10-gallon. For a planted nano school setup, chili rasboras in a group of 15-20 in a well-planted 10-gallon is the most stunning tank you’ll build at this size. Both are strong choices. They just serve different goals.

2. Guppy
- Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
- Adult Size: 1-2.5 inches (2.5-6.4 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: South America and the Caribbean
- Water Temperature: 63-82°F (17-28°C)
- Swimming Level: All levels
Guppies work in a 10-gallon, but only if you manage their breeding. These are livebearers, and females arrive from the store already pregnant more often than not. A trio of males only is my recommendation for a 10-gallon. You get the color, you skip the population explosion.

If you want males and females, know this: a pregnant guppy will fry every 3-4 weeks. In a 10-gallon that fills up fast. Plan for what you’ll do with the offspring before you decide on mixed sexes. The fancy guppy males are smaller, more colorful, and the right call here.

3. Japanese Rice Fish

Japanese Rice Fish

Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

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- Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
- Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: Japan
- Water Temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
- Swimming Level: All levels
Japanese Rice fish are an underrated gem. They’ve been raised in Asia for centuries, naturally living in rice paddies, and that background makes them adaptable and peaceful. They also go by Medaka or Japanese killifish.

Ricefish show their best behavior and coloration in groups of 6 or more. Keep the tank covered: they’ll jump. These fish are a solid choice for a planted 10-gallon where you want activity at all levels of the water column.

4. Endler’s Livebearer
- Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
- Adult Size: 1-1.8 inches (2.5-4.6 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: Venezuela, South America
- Water Temperature: 72-80°F (22-27°C)
- Swimming Level: All levels
Endler’s livebearers are the nano version of the guppy and a better fit for a 10-gallon in most cases. They stay smaller, produce less bioload, and are just as active and colorful. Same breeding warning applies: males only if you don’t want fry.

Males are smaller, more colorful, and easy to care for. This is one nano fish I’d recommend to any beginner without hesitation, as long as they understand the livebearer math.

5. Chili Rasbora
- Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
- Adult Size: 0.8 inches (2 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Water Temperature: 68-82°F (20-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
Chili rasboras in a planted 10-gallon are one of the most visually striking setups in the nano fish hobby. These bright orange fish with black markings are tiny: adults top out at 0.8 inches. Their small size means you can keep as many as 20 in a well-planted, well-filtered 10-gallon without stressing the system.

Chili rasboras come alive in a dark substrate planted tank with dim lighting. They’re not the right fish for a community setup with active or larger species: they’re shy and get outcompeted at feeding time. Build the tank around them and they’re spectacular.

6. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

White Cloud Mountain Minnow

A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

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- Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
- Adult Size: 1.5 inches (3.8 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: China
- Water Temperature: 58-72°F (14-22°C)
- Swimming Level: Midwater
White cloud minnows are beautiful, graceful schooling fish and the easiest species on this list to keep. They don’t need a heater: they’re cool water fish from mountain streams in China, thriving at 58-72°F (14-22°C). That makes them a great option for unheated setups or rooms that run cold.

They’re available in gold and long-fin varieties, and they school actively. A group of 8-10 in a 10-gallon is a clean, low-maintenance setup that practically any beginner can succeed with.

7. Celestial Pearl Danio
- Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
- Adult Size: 0.75 inches (1.9 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: Thailand, Myanmar
- Water Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
- Swimming Level: Midwater
The celestial pearl danio is one of the most beautiful fish you can keep in a 10-gallon. They’re happiest in a heavily planted tank and they stay small: 0.75 inches as adults.

The one thing to know: CPDs are shy and get outcompeted by faster, more aggressive feeders. Don’t pair them with livebearers or active mid-level fish. They do best in a species tank or with other calm nano fish. Keep groups of at least 6.

8. Neon Tetra
- Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
- Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: South America
- Water Temperature: 70-77°F (21-25°C)
- Swimming Level: Midwater
The neon tetra is the classic nano schooling fish. A 10-gallon is about the smallest tank they’ll genuinely thrive in, and only with strong filtration. A school of 6-8 neons in a mature, planted 10-gallon looks fantastic. The problem I see most often is people buying them for new, uncycled tanks. Neons are not as hardy as they look: a water quality crash in a new 10-gallon will kill them faster than almost any other fish on this list.

9. Female Bettas
- Scientific Name: Betta splendens
- Adult Size: 2-2.5 inches (5-6.4 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Diet: Carnivorous, Feed live/frozen foods, flakes, and pellets
- Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
- Water Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
Female betta fish are often overlooked because they don’t carry the dramatic finnage of the males. But females still have real color and personality, and they’re a better fit for community setups than males. Finding tank mates for a female betta is a much easier problem to solve.

A sorority of 4-5 females in a 10-gallon is possible for experienced keepers with a heavily planted tank and good monitoring, but it’s not a beginner move. Hierarchy disputes happen. A single female betta is the safer call for a 10-gallon.

10. Zebra Danio
- Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
- Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches (3.8-5 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: India
- Water Temperature: 70-82°F (21-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
Zebra danios are hardy and adaptable, which is why they show up on most 10-gallon lists. But I’ll be honest: they’re a borderline choice. These are active, fast-moving danios that prefer more swimming room than a 10-gallon comfortably provides. If you want them, keep a group of 6 minimum and make sure the tank is longer than it is tall. A 10-gallon with zebra danios works, but a 20-gallon long is a noticeably better fit.

11. Dwarf Corydoras Catfish
- Scientific Name: Corydoras hastatus
- Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
- Origin: South America
- Water Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
- Swimming Level: Midwater
The dwarf corydoras (pygmy cory) is one of the few cory species that genuinely works in a 10-gallon. Most cory cats need more floor space than a 10-gallon gives them. The dwarf species are different: they’re midwater swimmers as much as bottom dwellers, which means they use the full tank.

Keep them in groups of at least 6. Ten gallons is the minimum for this species. They’re a great choice for community setups with other peaceful nano fish, and they’ll keep the substrate cleaner than almost anything else on this list.

12. Freshwater Pea Puffer

Freshwater Pea Puffers

At only an inch in length, this is the smallest pufferfish you can purchase in the aquarium hobby

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- Scientific Name: Carinotetradon travancoricus
- Adult Size: 1 inch (2.5 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Aggressive
- Diet: Carnivorous, feed frozen and live foods
- Origin: India
- Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
The freshwater pea puffer is one inch of pure predator personality. These are aggressive fish with a bigger-than-life attitude, and they belong in a species-only setup. One pea puffer in a 10-gallon works well. Some keepers have managed 3 in a heavily planted 10-gallon with plenty of driftwood to break sightlines, but that’s advanced territory.

Don’t try to house them with other fish in a 10-gallon. In a larger tank with dense planting, some tank mate combinations can work. In a 10-gallon, the puffer will find everything eventually. Species-only is not a suggestion: it’s the rule.

13. Dwarf Gourami
- Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
- Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm)
- Care Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried and frozen foods
- Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
- Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
The dwarf gourami is from the same family as the betta and has similar care requirements: one male, good filtration, plenty of plants. They’re the smallest practical gourami and a good centerpiece option when you want something different from a betta.

A single male dwarf gourami in a 10-gallon works. A pair (one male, one female) is possible with strong planting and good filtration, but males can chase females relentlessly. Dwarf gouramis like shaded areas: floating plants or tall stem plants that dim the midwater are worth adding.

14. Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater Shrimp

Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

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- Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
- Adult Size: 1-1.25 inches (2.5-3.2 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Omnivorous, algae
- Origin: Taiwan
- Water Temperature: 60-82°F (15-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Bottom
Freshwater shrimp are one of the best choices for a 10-gallon and are massively underappreciated by beginners. Cherry shrimp eat algae and leftover food, add almost no bioload, and breed readily in a mature tank. A shrimp-only planted 10-gallon is one of the lowest-maintenance, highest-reward setups you can build at this size.

The catch: baby shrimp are snacks for any fish. Keep shrimp with no fish, or only with the most peaceful nano fish (dwarf corydoras work well). There are many types of freshwater shrimp available. Cherry shrimp are the most forgiving for beginners.

15. Nerite Snails

Zebra Nerite

Nerite snails are one of the best algae eating snails you can buy. Plant safe and do not reproduce in fresh water!

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- Scientific Name: Clithon, Vittina, and Neritina spp.
- Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches (2.5-3.8 cm)
- Care Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Diet: Algae
- Origin: Africa and Asia
- Water Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
- Swimming Level: Bottom
Most people think of snails as pests. That’s because they haven’t kept nerite snails. Nerites cannot breed in freshwater, which means they’re the only snail you can add without worrying about population explosions. They’re excellent algae eaters, add almost no bioload, and they look great. Horned, tiger, zebra, and olive varieties all work in a 10-gallon. Add 2-3 as a cleanup crew in any setup on this list.

The Reality of Keeping a 10-Gallon Tank

Here’s what the “15 best fish” lists don’t tell you: a 10-gallon tank requires more attention per gallon than almost any other size. Water changes need to happen weekly. Feeding needs to be precise: overfeeding in 10 gallons spikes ammonia within 24-48 hours. The nitrogen cycle is less stable because there’s less water to buffer changes.

The fish that succeed here are the ones that match the tank’s limitations, not the ones that can technically survive in it. A fish that “can” live in a 10-gallon but naturally swims several feet a day isn’t thriving: it’s tolerating. The difference shows up over months.

The setups I’ve watched succeed long-term at this size: a solo male betta in a planted tank, a tight school of chili rasboras or ember tetras in a mature planted setup, a species-only pea puffer tank, or a shrimp colony. Everything else on this list works too, but those four are the ones I’d build without hesitation.

What You Need to Know About Stocking Your Aquarium

Smaller doesn’t mean easier. That’s the single most important thing to understand about 10-gallon tanks. The smaller the tank, the less stable the water chemistry, and the faster problems develop. A 10-gallon punishes bad decisions faster than any other tank size.

For me, there are 3 keys to success in a 10-gallon:
- Choosing the right fish (this is the whole game)
- Providing good quality filtration
- Keeping up with regular maintenance
Debunking the Inch-Per-Gallon Myth

The inch-per-gallon rule gets thrown around constantly as 10-gallon stocking advice. It’s not wrong exactly: it’s just incomplete. Ten 1-inch fish sounds fine in a 10-gallon. One 10-inch fish is obviously wrong. But the rule doesn’t account for bioload, behavior, or activity level. A single 3-inch fish that swims constantly produces more waste and needs more space than three 1-inch fish that hover quietly in a planted corner.

The better question isn’t “how many inches of fish” but “what does each species actually need to thrive?” That’s the question this list is built around.

Aquariums Hold Less Water Than You’d Think

A 10-gallon tank doesn’t hold 10 gallons of water once you add substrate, hardscape, equipment, and leave space at the top. In practice, most 10-gallon setups hold 7-8 gallons of actual water. That’s the number you’re working with. Plan your stocking around 8 gallons, not 10.

The Characteristics of a Good Nano Fish

In the aquarium hobby, very small fish are generally known as nano fish. Here’s what actually makes a fish suitable for a 10-gallon:

Size

Fish for small aquariums must stay small as adults. This is the most common mistake beginners make: buying juvenile fish without checking adult size. Ninety percent of the fish at a fish store are juveniles with significant growing left to do. Always look up the adult size before buying.

Hardiness

Small tanks are less stable than large tanks. Water parameters swing more easily and more quickly. Hardy species that tolerate parameter fluctuations are a better choice for a 10-gallon than precision fish that need stable conditions. (That said, even hardy fish need a cycled tank. “Hardy” doesn’t mean ammonia-proof.)

Behavior

A fish’s behavior matters as much as its size. Aggressive, territorial fish like male bettas can do great in a 10-gallon as long as they’re the only one. Pea puffers are tiny but absolutely cannot be trusted with other fish in a small space. Active schooling fish like zebra danios technically fit but need more swimming room than a 10-gallon comfortably provides. Match the behavior to the space.

How To Set Up the Aquarium

After choosing your fish, set up the tank to match what they actually need. Here’s a quick rundown of what matters.

Filtration

A filter is non-negotiable in a 10-gallon. For nano tanks I prefer sponge filters or small hang-on-back filters. A canister filter is great for a display tank since it keeps the interior clean. A sponge filter is the best option for shrimp tanks since it won’t suck up babies. Internal power filters and hang-on-backs both work well. Whatever you choose: rate it for 10 gallons minimum and dial back the flow so you’re not blasting nano fish across the tank. Check out our aquarium filter guide for full recommendations.

Heating

Most fish on this list are tropical and need a heater. The exception: white cloud minnows. For everyone else, a reliable aquarium heater and a thermometer are both worth the cost. In a 10-gallon, temperature swings happen quickly. A heater that keeps temps stable at 78°F (26°C) is much better than one that cycles up and down 5 degrees a day.

Lighting

For fish-only setups, basic LED lighting works fine. For planted tanks (which I strongly recommend for a 10-gallon), choose a light rated for the plant density you’re aiming for. Low-light plants like Java ferns, anubias, and java moss work under basic LEDs. Carpeting plants and stem plants with high growth rates need a quality grow light.

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Run your lights 6-10 hours daily on a timer. Consistency matters more than intensity for most nano setups.

Maintenance

A fully cycled tank is the starting point, not the finish line. Weekly maintenance keeps a 10-gallon healthy. Skip it for two weeks and you’ll see it in your fish.

Water Quality

Water quality drops as fish waste and uneaten food accumulate. Weekly 20-25% water changes are the baseline. In a heavily stocked 10-gallon, do it twice a week. Nitrates will build up regardless of filtration quality. The only way out is water changes.

Testing

A basic test kit is essential. Test ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate weekly during the first three months. Once the tank is stable and cycled, nitrate testing guides your water change schedule. pH and hardness testing matters if your fish have specific needs (CPDs, for example, prefer softer water).

Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

The most efficient time to clean the tank is during water changes. Siphon the substrate while pulling water out. One bucket, one job. Algae on the glass comes off with a magnetic scraper. Rinse filter media in old tank water during water changes, never in tap water: chlorine kills the beneficial bacteria you’ve spent weeks building.

Growing Plants

Live plants are not optional in a 10-gallon: they’re a stability tool. Plants consume nitrates, provide oxygen, create territory for shy fish, and give fry or shrimp somewhere to hide. A planted 10-gallon is more stable, more forgiving, and better-looking than a bare tank. Five reasons to grow them:
- Plants provide natural habitat and reduce fish stress
- Micro-organisms on plant surfaces are food for nano fish and fry
- Plants oxygenate the water
- Plants consume nitrates as fertilizer, buying time between water changes
- A planted nano tank is one of the best-looking setups in the hobby
Start with low-light plants: java fern, anubias, java moss, hornwort. No CO2 needed. Once you’re comfortable, invest in a quality light and explore aquascaping. A well-planted 10-gallon with a school of chili rasboras is genuinely one of the most striking things you can build in this hobby.

Where To Buy

Most species on this list are available at your local fish store. For harder-to-find fish like chili rasboras, CPDs, or specific guppy varieties, trusted online fish dealers are the better option. Buying online eliminates the stress of long transport from a distant fish store and gives you access to healthier, better-conditioned stock.
What Most 10-Gallon Fish Lists Get Wrong
- Recommending fish that technically fit the size limit but create aggression or chronic stress in limited space (zebra danios, tiger barbs, some gourami combinations)
- Not addressing the nitrogen cycle challenge in small water volumes: a 10-gallon can spike from safe to dangerous ammonia levels within 24-48 hours of a feeding mistake or equipment failure
- Overstocking recommendations: listing 15 fish species and implying you can keep multiples of each is how tanks crash. A 10-gallon is one concept: one betta, one nano school, or one species-only setup. Not all three.
- Ignoring temperature compatibility: white cloud minnows (58-72°F/14-22°C) cannot share a tank with bettas or chili rasboras (75-82°F/24-28°C). Lists that include both without flagging this are setting people up to fail.
FAQs

What fish can I keep in a 10-gallon tank?

Fish that stay under 2.5 inches as adults, have low bioload, and don’t require extensive swimming room. The best choices are bettas (one male), nano schooling fish like chili rasboras or ember tetras, livebearers like guppies or Endler’s, and dwarf corydoras. Most fish you’ll see at a fish store are too large or too active for a 10-gallon long-term.

What is the biggest fish you can keep in a 10-gallon?

An adult male betta at 2.5-3 inches (6.4-7.6 cm) is the largest fish that works as a permanent resident in a 10-gallon. A dwarf gourami at the same size is another option. Anything larger creates waste and space problems that a 10-gallon can’t handle well.

Can I keep 8 fish in a 10-gallon?

Yes, if they’re the right species. Eight nano fish like ember tetras or chili rasboras in a well-planted, properly filtered 10-gallon is a solid setup. Eight guppies, eight zebra danios, or eight fish from different species with incompatible needs is a different story. Species selection matters more than raw numbers.

How many fish can I have in a 10-gallon?

The number depends entirely on the species. One male betta is the right stocking for a betta tank. Fifteen to twenty chili rasboras work in a well-planted setup with good filtration. Two or three pea puffers in a species-only tank is the limit for that species. There’s no universal number: choose your concept first, then stock accordingly.

Do I need a heater for a 10-gallon tank?

For most fish on this list, yes. The exception is white cloud mountain minnows, which thrive at 58-72°F (14-22°C) and don’t need a heater in most home environments. All other species on this list are tropical and need stable temperatures in the 72-82°F (22-28°C) range. A heater with a built-in thermostat is the best option for a 10-gallon.

Final Thoughts

A 10-gallon tank done right is one of the most rewarding setups in this hobby. A 10-gallon done wrong is one of the most frustrating. The difference comes down to one decision made before you ever add water: choosing the right fish for the space, not just the fish that fit the size limit.

Pick a concept. Build around it. A betta in a planted tank, a colony of chili rasboras, a shrimp setup with a couple of dwarf cories, a pea puffer species tank. These work because they’re designed around what the fish actually need, not just what the gallon count allows.

The 10-gallon punishes bad stocking decisions faster than any other tank size. It also rewards good ones with a level of detail and intentionality that larger tanks rarely force you to develop. That’s what makes it worth doing right.

If you’re ready to step up, check out our guide to the best fish for a 20-gallon tank.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

References
- Seriously Fish: Species profiles and care data
- FishBase: Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping: Husbandry and care advice
January 7, 2022

15 Axolotl Morphs: Colors, Rarity, and What to Look For

Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

What are Axolotls?

Axolotls are unique species of salamanders, mainly found in the lakebeds of Mexico city. They are very easy to look after. However, unlike other salamanders species, such as the Tiger salamander, axolotls spend their entire lives underwater.

Therefore, they require a larger tank (at least 20 gallons) with optimum temperature and water requirements.

Axolotls are critically endangered species of salamanders that are almost extinct in the wild. However, they are bred in captivity in large numbers.

One thing that should always consider before buying an axolotl is, it require a special permit to keep an axolotl. So, to avoid any mishaps, always check with your state’s or country’s laws before getting your smiley pets.

What Causes a Wide Variety of Axolotl Morphs?

Let’s get technical.

The color variation of many aquatic animals, including axolotls is due to the pigment cells called chromatophores¹. Three various types of chromatophores determine the color of your axolotl.

Melanophores. Having Eumelanin that causes a black or brown pigmentation
Xanthophores. Having Carotenoids and Pteridines that cause a yellow and red pigmentation
Iridophores. Having Crystalized Purines that cause a shiny soap-bubble type of pigmentation (Iridescence)

These three types of pigment cells possess 14 pairs of chromosomes, each coming from a male and female. The creative brains behind these clever crossover activities produce such extremely rare varieties of axolotls that we’ll discuss now.

Facts

Here’s some quick facts about the Axolotl species before we dive into morphs. Note that all axolotls you purchase from stores are captive bred. Wild species are protected and endangered.

Scientific Name	Ambystoma mexicanum
Common Names	Axolotl, Mexican salamander, Mexican walking fish
Basic Animal Group	Amphibian
Size	6-18 inches
Weight	2.1-8.0 ounce
Lifespan	10 to 15 years
Diet	Carnivore
Habitat	Xochimilco Lake near Mexico City
Wild Population	Less than a hundred
Current Status	Critically Endangered and Detrimental Aquatic Animals

15 Different Types

There are numerous types of axolotls in the wild and captivity. Sadly, the native axolotls are almost extinct and we only rely on the lab-created and breed created ones to fill our places with smiley pets.

The different axolotl morphs are a result of genius genetics and thanks to genetic engineering, we can now pet some amazing axolotl morphs in our home aquariums.

Even though there is no definite color variant for axolotls, I’m going to list 15 different exotic axolotl types with pictures.

1. Leucistic

At first glance, you might confuse Leucistic axolotls with albinos. However, they are a very different and unique breed.

Leucistic morphs are pinkish-white in color with dark gray, dark brown, or black eyes with pink or red gills that make them unique pets. They display shiny gold flecks on a translucent body that shimmers while they swim.

Leucistic axolotls are docile and cute pets that require a simple diet and regular upkeep. However, in the daytime, they is shy. But they are more inclined to their owners if taken good care of.

The cost of leucistic axolotls varies from $30 to $100 minus the tank accessories and food expenses.

2. Golden Albino

As juveniles, golden albinos are almost indistinguishable from white albinos. Like white albinos, they are super sensitive to bright light. However, as they age, they change color from white to peach, yellow to orange, and ultimately gold. Hence, called Golden Albinos.

The eyes of Golden albinos are white, pink, or yellow. And their bodies are adorned with reflective spots and speckles that shine like diamonds with peachy pink gills with a yellow hue.

In captivity, golden albinos are common species that cost around $50 minus the tank and food expenses.

3. Wild Type

As the name suggests, the wild-type axolotls mimic the appearance of the native Axolotls found in the muddy lakebeds near Mexico city. This type of axolotl is dark grayish-green in color with black or olive mottling. They also showcase a pale abdomen and gold speckles on their body.

The essence of this morphed axolotl lies in the purple gill filaments and dark eyes surrounded with golden irises. The cost of wild axolotls type ranges anywhere from $40 to $50, depending on the individual reptile and they are a very common axolotl morph in captivity.

4. Piebald

It is fairly easy to spot a piebald axolotl (video source) in an axolotl galore due to the pigmentation on the sides of the body. And just like other axolotl morphs, they are easy to care for and keep. A piebald axolotl has darker and thicker black spots than other axolotls morph.

Piebald axolotls are white with red gills, which makes them identical to Leucistic. However, they have black eyes and black symmetrical patches on the back and face that make them easily distinguishable.

Piebald axolotl morphs are rare. Hence, costs around $300.

5. Mosaic

Talk about exotic morphs in exotic pets, and we get a mosaic axolotl!

The mosaic axolotl is a product of wild type and leucistic morph colors that are spread all over the body. Mosaic axolotls are mottled with black and white colors and a hint of golden flecks on their body. They possess gills that are striped with red and purple colors and eyes that are multi-color, Imagine the beauty!

However, if you plan to breed these species, chances are you’re going to fail. They are a result of beautiful accidents and cannot be bred. Hence, very rare and costlier than most morphed axolotls.

6. Copper

When we’re talking about copper axolotls (video source), we’re speaking about a special type of albino that comes in various copper axolotl colors. They range from light, medium, to dark copper colors with reddish eyes. Mostly, copper axolotls are divided into three groups:

Light Coppers
Coppers
Het Coppers

One way to distinguish a copper axolotl from any other morphed axolotl is by shining a flashlight at their eyes. When pupils reflect red color, know that you have an albino copper axolotl.

Also, there’s the rarest breed of Copper axolotl namely Copper Melanoid axolotl, but one can get it only by luck!

7. Lavender or Silver Dalmatian

A very popular morph in the USA due to the cool color is a Lavender axolotl. This axolotl morph has light purple hints to its body with red gill filaments and black eyes., the body is covered in gray spots and that’s where they get their name from – Silver Dalmatian (Picture of breed is located here).

Sometimes, these lavender axolotl morphs change their color from purple to gray or green. However, mostly it remains the same.

Lavender morphs are rare yet desirable due to their color and unique specks all over the body. The lavender morphs cost around $115 and are mostly sold in the U.S.A.

8. Black Melanoid

Black melanoids (video source) are known as Blue Axolotls. However, they are not blue at all. Due to different lighting, black melanoid axolotls might appear bluish, but they have a dark black body and alight, pale-colored stomach.

Unlike most axolotl morphs, they don’t possess shiny spots on their bodies. Since they are dark in color, a black melanoid is confused with the wild variety.

If this confusion occurs, look closely at the eyes of your axolotl, if there is a shiny ring around the pupil, your axolotl is not a Black melanoid and a wild one instead.

9. White Albino

White albinos (video source) are a close relative of leucistic morphs that are pure white with red gill filaments. They also have light-colored eyes particularly, white or pink. On their gill stalks, there are flecks of gold. Due to the absence of pigments in their eyes, they are sensitive to light and may have poor vision.

One distinctive feature of white albinos is their dark fingertips that appear dirty when the axolotl reaches maturity. They are bred in captivity and cost around $40.

10. Speckled Leucistic or Dirty Leucistic or Dirty Lucy

Speckled leucistic (video source) is exactly the same as regular leucistic besides they have black, dark green, or brown spotting or specklings on the face and upper body. The black specklings on their body vary depending on the age of the axolotl and it is more prominent when the axolotl resides on a dark substrate.

If you keep your dirty Lucy in clean water with fewer predators, the black spots will disappear.

Fun Fact: The dirty black spots keep your dirty Lucy safe from predators by maintaining a camouflage.

11. Chimera

Chimera is the result of two egg morphs when fused before hatching. And this is the reason you’ll rarely find Chimera in the wild but in captivity only.

They are not considered true axolotl morph as they possess one morph on one side of their body and a different morph on the other. The axolotl morph is then split right down into the middle and right halves.

Interestingly, depending upon the individual axolotl, one side of the morph can grow significantly at a slower pace than the other. Chimerism in axolotls is extremely rare, and they are not sold in the markets.

Fun Fact: The chance of the birth and survival of Chimera is about 0.00001%!

12. Heavily-Marked Melanoid

When we talk about melanoid, it is misunderstood that there are no axolotl colors. However, the literal definition of melanoid in the axolotl hall of fame is “the absence of iridophores (shiny patches).”

Heavily-marked melanoid axolotls are a unique variation of black melanoid morph that is black with grayish purple spots.

These color morphs are rare and there is little to no information available about them.

The light green and yellow patches on their body make them highly distinguishable from a regular black melanoid. They are uncommon in the wild and captivity as well and sold for around $75.

13. Green Fluorescent Protein

Glow in the dark axolotl is a stunning surprise for you. However, they are for real (video source).

GFP or Green fluorescent protein radiates a bright neon green color under blacklight. But blacklight is detrimental to these adorable creatures, so they shouldn’t be exposed to it for more than a few seconds.

You’ll experience some greenish tint on your GFP axolotls under a normal lighting and their eyes will radiate green color, even under normal room lighting.

Originally, the green fluorescent protein was artificially introduced into the axolotl community by the Max Planck Institute in 2005 to give axolotls a glow-in-the-dark effect. However, now they may naturally occur in some species.

The purpose of mutating this genetically modified axolotl morph was to research cancer and the regeneration process. On average, you will find GFP axolotls almost everywhere and they cost around $70.

14. Firefly

The genius brain behind Firefly axolotls is Lloyd Strohl II from Indiana USA in 2016, who artificially created this axolotl morphing through embryonic graphing to study limb regeneration.

The firefly axolotls have a lighter tale and a darker body or vice versa. Out of which, some have GFP tails that glow in the dark.

Since this morphed axolotl was created in a lab, they are rarely found and sold. Since they possess a GFP tail, their tails are fluorescent under UV or black light and hence the name, “Firefly.”

They are not easily found in captivity and cost around $250.

15. Enigma

Enigma (picture source) is another artificially created axolotl morph for the sake of research by an American hobbyist. Therefore, they are sold only in the U.S.A.

Enigma axolotls have a dark gray body with translucent underbelly and toes. They possess pale red gills and beautiful golden eyes.

They often display a green-golden patch that grabs attention. Enigma axolotls are derived from the wild types.

All in all, each axolotl morph is an endangered species that demand your attention. Therefore, breeders and keepers should play their part in keeping axolotl’s waters clean and their diet healthy.

FAQs

What is the rarest Color?

The Lavender morph or Silver Dalmation is the rarest axolotl color as they can only be found in some parts of the U.S.A.

What is the rarest type?

The piebald axolotl is by far the rarest axolotl morph, which is a leucistic axolotl morph with pigments in other parts of its body other than the face.

What is the rarest in real life?

Mosaic and Chimera axolotls are very rare in real life.

Conclusion

That’s all about exotic axolotl breeds for now. If you want one for yourself, I suggest that you check with your local breeders after getting the permit, and decide which one you’d like to get for your home aquariums.

Whatever morph you get, be sure to provide it with enough space to roam around freely and feed nourishing live food (especially live earthworms) to keep them healthy and happy for the rest of their lives.

January 6, 2022

How to Set Up a Saltwater Aquarium: The Complete Beginner Guide
Setting up a saltwater aquarium is one of the most rewarding things you can do in this hobby. and it’s far more approachable than most beginners assume. I’ve been in the saltwater side of the hobby for over 25 years, have run a 125-gallon reef of my own, and I’ve helped countless people get their first saltwater tank off the ground. The biggest mistake I see is people trying to do everything at once, or buying equipment before they understand what it’s actually for. In this guide I’m walking you through everything you need to know about setting up a saltwater aquarium the right way. from choosing your tank and equipment to cycling, stocking, and maintaining it long-term.

How Much Does It Cost To Set Up A Saltwater Aquarium?

Before we dive into the specifics, you will want to know more about the financial investment you’re about to make.

It is no secret that saltwater aquariums cost more to set up and maintain than freshwater aquariums, but by how much exactly? In general, it’s estimated that every gallon of saltwater costs $40-$60.

This includes the original startup cost, water and electricity bills, equipment, and general maintenance. Most hobbyists spend between $1,000-$2,000 on building and starting their tank alone¹.

This is definitely a lot of money and it doesn’t get much cheaper the more involved you get. Luckily, many hobbyists sell used premium products, fish, and invertebrates at a discount to fellow hobbyists. There are even social media groups that exchange corals at no extra cost!

The truth is that this side of the hobby is expensive no matter how you go about it. However, there’s nothing quite like adding a saltwater aquarium fish to a new tank for the first time ever.

How Hard Is It To Assemble?

Though more expensive, a saltwater aquarium isn’t necessarily more difficult to set up or maintain than a freshwater aquarium.

Just like a freshwater aquarium, saltwater tanks need to go through the nitrogen cycle where ammonia is converted to nitrite and nitrate by beneficial bacteria. This process takes about 4-6 weeks, though it can be expedited with mature live rock and filter media.

From there, a new saltwater aquarium will go through an ugly algae and/or diatom phase for the first couple of months. During this time, water parameters may swing, especially if the nitrogen cycle wasn’t allowed to fully finish. Because of this, it isn’t recommended to begin adding corals until the tank is at least 3 months old.

One of the main differences between a freshwater and saltwater fish tank is that marine ecosystems are constantly changing. As corals grow, you will need to increase water flow and dose nutrients. As you add more fish, you might need to perform more water changes and change the settings on your protein skimmer.

The difficult part about setting up a saltwater aquarium is finding what works best for your system. There are guidelines and recommendations, but only you will be able to tell where and when your saltwater tank does best.

What Type of Saltwater Aquarium Setup Do You Want?

That being said, there are a few types of saltwater aquarium setup you can try. It is important to decide which one you want at the beginning of the setup process as it can be difficult and expensive to change once the tank has been established.

The three main saltwater aquarium setups are:
- Fish only (FO)
- Fish only with live rock (FOWLR)
- Reef
Within these three setups, there are also community and predatory fish options.

Fish Only (FO)

As the name implies, a fish only system will have only fish without any live rock or corals, very similar to how most freshwater setups work. A fish only tank can be simple in design, yet incredibly effective. They often use fake aquarium decorations and a plain substrate to accent the fish in the display.

This option is especially popular for predatory setups but is common among beginner hobbyists as well. A fish only setup allows the hobbyist to focus only on the fish and their health and not on maintaining an entire ecosystem. As we’ll see, live rock can actually be very beneficial to the tank as a whole.

Fish Only With Live Rock (FOWLR)

A FOWLR system is the most popular saltwater tank setup and is relatively easy to convert to a reef system down the line.

Live rock provides a healthy population of beneficial bacteria that can make water chemistry more stable while providing fish and invertebrates with food and shelter. However, it can also come with unwanted hitchhikers, algae, and other pests that beginner hobbyists might not know how to immediately treat.

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Live rock can be intimidating at first. It can also be hard to come by and pretty expensive for what it is. Once live rock is established though, it can be used indefinitely to stabilize the system and even seed other marine systems with the necessary bacteria.

Dry rock is more common these days, but I prefer to use a mix of live rock and dry rock to get proper diversity. Too little biodiversity in a reef tank combined with no nutrients leads to nuisance dinoflagellates.

A FOWLR system can support a community or predatory ecosystem. These setups are also best if planning to keep saltwater fish species that are not entirely reef-safe, like angelfish, butterflyfish, or triggerfish.

Reef Tank

The truth is that many hobbyists end up with a reef tank at one point or another in their aquarium-keeping careers even if they never intended to; the coral bug eventually gets everyone.

At the same time, reef tanks are believed to be unattainable for most. They’re thought to be expensive, difficult to maintain, and only suitable for expert hobbyists. They also limit saltwater fish stocking to only reef-safe, community species.

While they’re certainly expensive, reef tanks don’t necessarily take more time or maintenance than FO or FOWLR systems and can definitely be kept by hobbyists at all levels. Reef tanks can be as simple or intricate as desired.

In general, there are three reef tank setups:
- Soft coral reef tank
- Mixed coral reef tank
- SPS coral reef tank
Soft Coral Reef Tank

Soft corals, like mushrooms and leathers, are relatively easy to keep. They adapt to changing and imperfect parameters and don’t demand much light or water flow. Some hobbyists have even had success keeping soft corals under stock lighting, without any additional maintenance or equipment.

Soft corals are also usually mixed with macroalgae, which can create a beautiful, yet self-sufficient ecosystem.

Mixed Coral Reef Tank

Most hobbyists end up with a mixed coral reef tank. This includes soft corals, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and small polyp stony (SPS) corals.

Mixed reef tanks need slightly more care and time than soft coral tanks. These systems also need better lighting, water flow, and a good understanding of how nutrients move throughout the tank. Still, the overall requirements of the system do not differ much, especially if keeping easier coral species.

SPS Coral Reef Tank

On the other hand, there is a huge gap between mixed reefs and SPS reefs. SPS reefs are truly for experts only and demand top-of-the-line lighting, water flow, and mastery of water quality. Supplements will need to be dosed to keep up with nutrient uptake due to coral growth in addition to regular water changes.

There is no denying that SPS reefs are some of the most spectacular aquariums around, though.

All-in-One Tank Assembly vs. Build-Your-Own

After deciding what kind of system you want to run, you will need to decide on the physical blueprint. If making the transition from freshwater to saltwater, this process can definitely be intimidating. At the end of the day, you want something that is guaranteed to hold water and comfortably house fish and corals.

There are two main options available when shopping for aquariums: all-in-one aquariums or build-your-own aquariums.

All-In-One Tank Set-ups

All-in-one setups, often abbreviated as AIO, are convenient. They often include a pre-drilled tank with internal or external filtration, all necessary plumbing, an aquarium stand, and sometimes even a light. All that is left to add is substrate, rock, water, and some additional equipment.

Marine AIO’s like Red Sea Reefers are often top-of-the-line with aesthetic designs and hefty price tags. On the other hand, there are also all-in-one freshwater setups that can be modified for saltwater purposes that are much less expensive, though more clunky in appearance.

Red Sea Reefer

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These freshwater AIO’s usually include a standard rectangular fish tank, hang-on-the-back filtration, a heater, an aquarium hood, food, and other accessories. If just starting out in the saltwater aquarium hobby, these packages can seem convenient and at a discount, but are actually more expensive than their individual parts.

Build-Your-Own Tank

The majority of hobbyists choose to build their own saltwater aquariums as there’s much more room for customizability. When setting up an aquarium, the most important factors are size and equipment.

For both freshwater and saltwater aquariums, it’s often said that bigger is better. This is because imperfections are more diluted in bigger tanks, meaning that the tank is more stable overall. For saltwater especially, a larger fish tank will allow for more livestock options, which is what most hobbyists want.

On the other hand, nano and pico tanks under 40 gallons can be just as rewarding as large systems, though they sometimes require more time and care. In order to know what size tank to get, make a preliminary stocking list and maintenance schedule. This will allow you to gauge how much space you actually need and how much time you’re willing to put into maintaining that ecosystem size.

Once a size has been determined, equipment needs to be selected. When it comes to equipment, it can be very easy to cheap out and go with products that are good enough for the time being. In most instances, it is always recommended to go with a better quality product to avoid spending money on broken and inadequate equipment.

This is especially true when choosing the lighting for your saltwater aquarium. It can be difficult to see the future of your tank. As mentioned before, many hobbyists do not intend to keep corals but often change their mind about a year into the hobby. If you have the slightest inclination towards keeping corals, then you should buy a light designed for keeping corals.

Lighting can be especially expensive and most beginner hobbyists aren’t willing to take the jump at a several hundred-dollar lighting systems. However, money spent on low-tech lighting could have been put towards the end-goal high-tech lighting.

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This is also true for other necessary aquarium equipment, like filtration, heaters, protein skimmers, and powerheads/wavemakers.

Acrylic vs. Glass Tanks

One more consideration you need to make before buying your saltwater aquarium is what the tank is made from. Today, acrylic and glass aquariums are largely available and there are some noticeable differences between them.

Most aquariums are made from glass. Many pet stores and aquarium stores carry standard-sized aquariums made from glass that are sealed together by silicone. For years, glass aquariums have been dependable, scratch-resistant, and affordable. However, they’re bulky, heavy, and limited in the shapes they can take on.

On the other hand, acrylic is much more expensive, but a better alternative for larger tanks. Acrylic is proportionally stronger than glass and can be molded into various shapes and sizes for a more unique appearance. Acrylic is also incredibly lightweight, which starts to matter when you’re dealing with hundreds of gallons of water and weight.

The problem with an acrylic tank is that it is very prone to scratches; it is not unheard of for beaked-fish to be able to scratch the sides of an acrylic aquarium. New acrylic also starts off completely transparent, giving a cleaner, more refined look into the saltwater aquarium. Though this is the best view you can get, acrylic tends to yellow and warp with time.

In general, small and regularly-shaped tanks can be made from glass while large and irregularly-shaped tanks can be made from acrylic. Usually, higher-end all-in-one aquarium brands will be made from acrylic, so make sure you know what you’re ordering!

A good compromise between glass vs acrylic is to purchase a rimless tank. Rimless aquariums offer high clarity and a clean look. They aren’t as clear as acrylic and heavy like traditional glass aquariums, but the look they provide is very clean. You will also see rimless tanks used in planted tanks.

Equipment and Test Kits

Saltwater fish tanks require much more equipment than freshwater aquariums.

There are different types of filters, like hang-on-the-back filters, canisters filters, and sumps, which we’ll discuss in-depth later on. Each of these can be successful if they provide adequate mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. An aquarium heater is also necessary to keep the tank at tropical temperatures as most saltwater fish originate from warm waters near the equator.

If you’re new to the saltwater world, then you may not understand the full importance of water flow in the saltwater aquarium. Not only are these tropical waters warm, but they’re shallow and easily influenced by tides and currents which exchange gases and deliver nutrients to animals below. Water flow becomes especially important when dealing with SPS corals found at the top of the reef.

In short, saltwater aquarium setups need higher water flow for gas exchange and nutrient dispersion. The rate of water flow will largely depend on the types of corals being kept and their size.

Underneath the tank, a protein skimmer is often recommended for hobbyists with larger displays. These machines help polish water of organic waste which would otherwise negatively affect corals. Other equipment, like sterilizers and reactors, may also be used to help maintain water quality.

In addition to this equipment, water tests are necessary for a saltwater aquarium. Most hobbyists choose to mix their own saltwater with aquarium salt, which requires a refractometer for determining salinity. Reliable liquid test kits should also regularly be used for:
- Ammonia
- Nitrite
- Nitrate
- Alkalinity
- pH
- Calcium
- Magnesium
- Phosphate
Not only will test kits let you know when the cycling process is done, but they are also necessary when keeping corals. As corals grow, they use nutrients available in the water column. These nutrients may sometimes be replaced by routine water changes but usually need to be supplemented. Testing allows for precise dosing with little room for error.

Lastly, a reliable thermometer is needed. Some hobbyists use a digital thermometer that relays live information to their phones in case of emergency. Anything is better than external thermometers which have a tendency to read ambient temperature rather than tank temperature, though. These days, a temperature controller or aquarium controller are preferred to prevent heater failure tank crashes.

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Tank Sump Assembly

Just like everything else in fishkeeping, saltwater aquarium filtration can be as simple or as complex as you make it. Members of the hobby have successfully run tanks with hang-on-the-back filters and canister filters, but most experienced hobbyists use sumps.

Aquarium sumps are external filtration systems that allow for a high degree of customizability. They often have three chambers. The first chamber is mostly used for mechanical filtration. A filter stock can be positioned underneath the drain so that physical waste is collected and later cleaned.

The second chamber can be used in a few ways. One common use for the middle chamber is for equipment storage. Saltwater aquariums require a lot of equipment, and most of it can be hidden in the sump as opposed to in the display tank like freshwater aquariums. This includes heaters, protein skimmers, reactors, and other sterilizers.

Another use for the second chamber is as a refugium. Refugiums are mini-ecosystems in themselves, usually housing substrate and macroalgae, like chaeto (Chaetomorpha linum). This part of the sump acts as biological filtration as the macroalgae take up excess nutrients and return oxygen in exchange. Some hobbyists even like to throw pest corals in their refugium for extra nutrient export.

The third chamber is used for chemical media to polish off any last-minute impurities before the water is returned to the display tank via the return pump. Hobbyists also use bafflers and bubble traps to get the most level and smoothest return possible. This is also where auto top-off systems are installed to keep the salinity and water levels stable.

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Though a sump isn’t entirely necessary for running a healthy reef tank, they offer room for bulky equipment, additional filtration, and can make overall maintenance easier.

How to Pick the Perfect Location

Once all items have been picked up and delivered, it’s time to find the perfect spot for your tank. Though it is incredibly exciting to start filling up and cycling a new saltwater aquarium as soon as possible, patience and planning is the best way for success in the long run.

Saltwater aquariums are statement pieces. They can bring a unique ecosystem to the middle of any room and become the center of attention. It’s important to frame your tank in the best way possible, while still making it fully accessible for maintenance and viewing.

No matter a freshwater or saltwater aquarium, you want to keep your tank as far away from windows and direct sunlight as possible. Saltwater tanks are especially prone to growing nuisance algae and do not need any more influence from excess sunlight. Keep in mind that light can still seep in through blinds and window drafts can make the heater work overtime.

Next, you want to make sure that your floor can support the weight of the tank. This is unique to every build, but it is recommended to hire an evaluator if dealing with especially large amounts of water. At the same time, electrical outlets should be easily reachable and accessible as saltwater tanks require a lot of energy.

Lastly, leave more space around the tank than originally planned. Saltwater tanks are messy: there’s salt creep, saltwater, and humidification. These factors can quickly lead to damage to nearby walls, floors, and furniture if left unmonitored.

You will also want enough space around the tank to be able to reach all areas of the display. Live rock can make cleaning and catching fish near impossible and you will want that extra space to maneuver.

Salt Mix vs Salt-water

Lastly, you will need to think about how you’re going to fill your saltwater aquarium with saltwater. Most hobbyists that have a local fish store will purchase natural saltwater due to convenience. Other hobbyists that are not so lucky have to come up with other solutions.

The most common way to get saltwater is by using a salt mix from a reliable aquarium company. Most salts are very similar to one another, but again, your fish tank will react differently with each one. But where do you get the water to mix with your salt?

Saltwater needs purer water than freshwater does. While freshwater aquariums can be topped off with tap water, those extra minerals and nutrients do not do well in reef aquariums. Instead, most saltwater hobbyists install a reverse osmosis deionization (RO/DI) water system.

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While these units can be expensive, they are cheaper and more convenient in the long run. Not only can you mix saltwater with this water, but you can also perform regular freshwater top-offs when your tank level is running low from evaporation.

If you are not able to get an RO/DI system, then you may regularly purchase it from the store or rely on distilled water instead. Mainly, you want to avoid adding extra nutrients or minerals that could feed algae and disrupt the water quality in your aquarium.

Final Thoughts

Setting up a saltwater fish tank doesn’t have to be hard, but it will be more than likely expensive. First, decide what type of saltwater aquarium you want to have and allot a budget. Then pick a tank size, suitable equipment, and a place to keep your fish tank. Install a water system if needed or find a reputable source. Add salt and let the cycle begin!

Within a few weeks, you will be able to add your first marine fish and corals. Welcome to the saltwater aquarium hobby!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
January 5, 2022

15 Best Freshwater Angelfish Types: The Complete Visual Guide to Varieties

Freshwater angelfish are one of the species I get asked about most. After 25 years in this hobby, I still find them genuinely fascinating. That elegant, disc-shaped profile stands out in any tank, and the variety of color morphs and fin types selectively bred over decades is remarkable. But here is what most people miss before they buy: angelfish are cichlids. They are territorial. They pair-bond. And they will absolutely eat small fish like neon tetras the moment those fish fit in their mouth. That “angelfish ate my neons” story is as old as the hobby itself.

Angelfish are not beginner fish. They are sold as beginner fish. Those are two different things.

All the beautiful color varieties you see at the store (silver, black, koi, marble, gold, platinum) are the same species, Pterophyllum scalare, just selectively bred for color and fin shape. This guide covers 15 of the most popular types along with what actually separates them in terms of care, personality, and what each one demands from your tank setup.

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

After 25 years in this hobby and time managing retail fish stores, the single most common angelfish mistake I see is pairing them with nano fish. People buy a 4-inch angelfish and think it is peaceful because the store said so. Six months later, when that fish hits 6 inches and starts pairing up, the dynamic changes entirely. Build your stocking list around the angelfish, not around the idea that it will stay calm forever. Altum angelfish are a completely separate conversation. They are expert-only fish that demand very specific soft, acidic water and do not tolerate the kind of parameter swings that scalare varieties handle without issue.

What Is an Angelfish?

Freshwater angelfish belong to the genus Pterophyllum, a group of South American cichlids. Three species exist in the wild, though the vast majority of fish in the hobby come from one: Pterophyllum scalare. They have been captive-bred for generations and can live 10 years or more in a well-maintained tank.

There are three wild species:

Common angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare): the species behind almost every color variety in the hobby
Altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum): large, expert-only, demands very specific soft acidic water
Leopold’s angelfish (Pterophyllum leopoldi): smallest of the three, rarely seen but does well in aquariums

What People Get Wrong About Angelfish

The most persistent myth is that angelfish are peaceful community fish. They are relatively calm by cichlid standards, yes. But relative is doing a lot of work in that sentence.

Angelfish will eat anything that fits in their mouth. At 6 inches with long trailing fins, they look majestic and gentle. But they establish territories, they bully smaller tankmates during spawning season, and a bonded pair will defend their spawning site aggressively against every other fish in the tank.

The other thing people miss: angelfish need height. Their bodies are deep, not long, and a standard 20-gallon long tank that looks plenty big actually cramps them. A 29-gallon or 55-gallon tall is the right starting point.

Angelfish Types: A Tier Breakdown

TIER BREAKDOWN

Beginner: Silver, Koi, Marble, Gold, Black Lace, Zebra (standard Pterophyllum scalare varieties, forgiving, widely available, bred for aquarium conditions)
Intermediate: Veil/Superveil (fin damage risk, needs careful tankmate selection), Platinum (shows water quality issues quickly), Blushing, Smokey, Pearlscale
Advanced: Altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum, expert-only, demands very soft acidic water, does not tolerate parameter swings), Fluorescent/GloAngel (GMO fish, ethical debate aside, fragile), Albino Dantum (hybrid origin, specific needs)

Angelfish Types: Quick Comparison

Type / Variety	Difficulty	Max Size (body depth)	Min Tank	Key Trait
Silver Angelfish	Beginner	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Classic look, most forgiving
Koi Angelfish	Beginner	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Unique tricolor markings per fish
Marble Angelfish	Beginner	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Irregular black/white patterns
Black Angelfish / Black Lace	Beginner	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Deep black pigmentation, bold presence
Gold Angelfish	Beginner	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Warm golden-yellow tone
Platinum Angelfish	Intermediate	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	White-silver; shows poor water quality
Veil / Superveil Angelfish	Intermediate	6 in (15 cm) long, 8 in (20 cm) deep	29 gal tall	Long flowing fins; nipping risk
Altum Angelfish	Advanced	7 in (18 cm) long, 10 in (25 cm) deep	75 gal tall	Expert-only; soft, acidic water required

15 Angelfish Types for Your Aquarium

Now let’s get into each type, what makes it unique, and what you actually need to know to keep it successfully.

1. Altum Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum altum
Adult Size: 7 inches (18 cm) long, 10 inches (25 cm) deep
Color: Silver, gold, and black with three distinct stripes
Difficulty: Advanced

The altum angelfish is not for beginners. Full stop. This is the largest of the three Pterophyllum species and is sometimes called the Orinoco angelfish after its native river system. It demands soft, acidic water in the pH 4.8–6.2 range and does not tolerate the parameter swings that Pterophyllum scalare varieties handle without a problem.

If you are new to angelfish, start with a scalare variety and come back to the altum after you have a few years of experience. The altum is a spectacular fish when kept properly. But it is an expert-level challenge.

2. Koi Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: White, yellow-orange, black (tricolor)
Difficulty: Beginner

The koi angelfish is one of the most popular varieties in the hobby, and for good reason. The tricolor pattern resembles koi carp, and because each fish has slightly different markings, every koi angel is unique. That uniqueness makes them more expensive than standard varieties, but they are not more difficult to keep.

Koi angelfish are excellent centerpiece fish. They draw attention immediately and hold it.

3. Panda Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Black and white with variable markings
Difficulty: Beginner

The panda angelfish is a bold black-and-white variant where the pattern distribution varies by individual. Some are mostly white with black patches; others are more evenly split. Care requirements are identical to standard scalare varieties.

4. Albino Dantum Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum sp. (possibly hybrid)
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: White with red eyes and faint vertical stripe traces
Difficulty: Intermediate

Albino dantum angelfish have a tall body, long fins, and red eyes from the albino gene. The exact species origin is uncertain, and they may be a hybrid. They are visually striking but require good water quality to maintain condition. Red-eyed albino fish are sometimes more light-sensitive, so take that into account with your lighting setup.

5. Fluorescent (GloAngel) Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare (genetically modified)
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Fluorescent pink
Difficulty: Intermediate to Advanced

Fluorescent angelfish were first developed by researchers in Taiwan by inserting coral fluorescent protein genes into the angelfish genome. They are rare, controversial in parts of the hobby, and banned for sale in some countries. From a pure care standpoint, they are not hardier than standard scalare, if anything, they can be more fragile. I list them here for completeness, not as a recommendation.

6. Chocolate Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Dark chocolate-brown body with silvery-grey head
Difficulty: Beginner

Chocolate angelfish have a distinctive two-toned look: dark pigmentation covering most of the body from behind the gills, with a lighter silvery head. The coloration can vary, and some individuals show grey patches on the chocolate sides. They are hardy, beginner-friendly fish that stand out from the more common silver varieties.

7. Platinum Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: All-white with silver sheen
Difficulty: Intermediate

The platinum angelfish is stunning under good lighting: a clean, all-white body with a subtle silver shimmer. The catch is that platinum coloration shows water quality issues clearly. Any yellowing or patchy coloration on a platinum angel is a direct signal that something is off with your water chemistry. These fish need stable, well-maintained parameters to look their best.

8. Gold Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Warm golden-yellow
Difficulty: Beginner

Gold angelfish are selectively bred to express a warm yellow-gold tone across most of the body. They look excellent against green planted tank backgrounds and are among the easier varieties to find at local fish stores. Care requirements are standard scalare.

9. Marble Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Irregular black, white, and gold marbled pattern
Difficulty: Beginner

Marble angelfish display irregular black-and-white (sometimes gold) marbled patterns that make each fish unique. They are one of the best beginner varieties: widely available, hardy, and visually interesting without the extra care requirements of more specialized morphs.

10. Black Angelfish / Black Lace

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Deep black (black lace shows striping through dark pigment)
Difficulty: Beginner

Black angelfish have deep, uniform black pigmentation from heavy melanin expression. Black lace varieties show through-the-dark-pigment striping that gives a lace-like appearance. Both are bold, high-contrast fish that look dramatic in planted or dark-substrate setups. Straightforward to keep.

11. Silver Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Silver body with four vertical black stripes
Difficulty: Beginner

The silver angelfish is the closest to the wild-type Pterophyllum scalare coloration. Four vertical black stripes on a silver body, clean, classic, and immediately recognizable. If you are new to angelfish, starting with silver is a reasonable choice. They are the most forgiving of the varieties, bred for aquarium conditions for generations.

12. Zebra Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Silver with multiple vertical black stripes (more than standard silver)
Difficulty: Beginner

Zebra angelfish are a multi-striped variant of the silver angelfish, with four or more vertical stripes that give a denser striped appearance. Sometimes called “four-bar” or “six-bar” depending on stripe count. Beginner-friendly with the same care profile as standard scalare.

13. Blushing Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Pale body with visible reddish-pink gill areas (“blushing”)
Difficulty: Beginner to Intermediate

Blushing angelfish get their name from the visible reddish-pink gill coloration showing through transparent scale tissue. The “blush” makes them look delicate, and they are somewhat more sensitive to water quality than fully pigmented varieties. Keep parameters stable and these fish do well.

14. Smokey Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Smokey grey, darker toward the rear
Difficulty: Beginner

Smokey angelfish have a grey-toned body that deepens in color toward the rear. The effect is subtle compared to the bold contrast of black or marble varieties, but they look excellent in well-lit planted tanks where the grey tones catch the light. Hardy and straightforward.

15. Veil and Superveil Angelfish

Species: Pterophyllum scalare (selective fin breeding)
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm) long, 8 inches (20 cm) deep
Color: Any standard variety; defined by fin length, not color
Difficulty: Intermediate

Veil and superveil angelfish are standard Pterophyllum scalare selectively bred for extended, flowing fins. Superveil is an extreme expression of the same trait. They look spectacular in the right setup. The challenge: those long fins are a target. Any fin-nipping species in the same tank will go for them. Stick with calm, similarly sized tankmates and keep the current gentle so fins stay intact.

Mark’s Pick: Best Angelfish for Most Aquarists

MARK’S PICK

The koi angelfish. Each one is genuinely unique, they are widely available, the care requirements are identical to standard scalare, and they make an immediate visual impact in any community tank. If you want one angelfish to build a setup around, the koi is my recommendation. It delivers the showpiece quality of the species without the extra complexity of altum or the fragility of specialty morphs.

Angelfish Care: What You Actually Need to Know

Every scalare variety shares the same core care requirements. The color or fin type does not change what the fish needs.

Tank size: 29 gallons minimum, tall format: do not use a standard 20-long. These are tall fish.
Temperature: 76–84°F (24–29°C)
pH: 6.0–7.5
Hardness: Soft to moderately hard
Diet: Varied (flakes, pellets, frozen bloodworms, brine shrimp), they are not picky.
Tankmates: Medium to large peaceful fish only. No small tetras, no neon tetras, no small shrimp.

Angelfish are pair-bonders. Once a pair forms, the male and female will claim territory, chase other fish away from their spawning site, and become significantly more aggressive. This is normal cichlid behavior and it can surprise people who have kept them as juveniles in a calm community setting.

Avoid Angelfish If…

AVOID IF

You have a tank shorter than 18 inches (46 cm) in height, angelfish bodies are deep and they need vertical space.

You already have small fish like neon tetras, ember tetras, chili rasboras, or nano shrimp, they will be eaten once the angelfish reaches adult size.

You want a guaranteed peaceful community setup with no territorial dynamics, even the calmest pair will defend their spawning area aggressively.

You are new to cichlids and want low-drama fish, consider corydoras or livebearers first, then graduate to angelfish.

You are interested in altum angelfish specifically but have no experience with soft acidic water chemistry, altums are expert-only fish. Pterophyllum scalare varieties first.

Should You Get Angelfish?

Good fit if:

You have a 29-gallon or larger tall tank
Your stocking list is built around medium-to-large peaceful fish
You want a true showpiece centerpiece species
You are comfortable with occasional territorial behavior
You want to experience pair bonding and potential breeding

Avoid if:

Your tank is a standard 20-long or smaller
You have small fish already established
You want a stress-free community tank with zero territorial dynamics
You are a complete beginner, start with something more forgiving first

Closing Thoughts

Angelfish are one of the most rewarding freshwater species you can keep, but they need to be set up correctly from the start. A tall tank, the right tankmates, and an understanding that these are cichlids, not just pretty community fish. Get those three things right and an angelfish will be the centerpiece of your aquarium for a decade.

If you are ready to add angelfish to your tank, check out what is available at Flip Aquatics or Dan’s Fish, both carry quality freshwater angelfish and can ship directly to your door.

January 4, 2022

Freshwater Fish Compatibility Chart – A Complete Reference Guide

Fish compatibility is one of the first things I look at when helping someone stock a new tank, and it’s where a lot of beginners go wrong by trusting the fish store without checking the numbers. After 25 years of keeping community tanks and fielding compatibility questions from my YouTube audience, I’ve developed a clear decision framework for stocking. A chart is a useful starting point, but it will steer you wrong without understanding the four factors that actually determine whether fish can coexist.

No chart can tell you if two fish are truly compatible. You still have to think through the variables. This guide gives you both: the charts and the framework to use them correctly.

Key Takeaways

Temperature overlap is the first compatibility check. If two fish need different temperature ranges that don’t overlap, they cannot share a tank. Period.
Temperament on a chart is a generalization. Individual fish within the same species vary significantly. Tiger barbs are semi-aggressive as a species; one tiger barb may be a tyrant, another may be timid.
Size ratio matters more than most hobbyists realize. Any fish that can fit another fish in its mouth will eventually try.
Tank layout solves many compatibility problems. Territorial fish that would fight in an empty tank often coexist fine in a heavily decorated, well-divided space.
The order of introduction matters. Adding fish to an established territory always triggers more aggression than adding multiple fish at once to a new setup.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

I’ve watched hobbyists stock beautiful tanks based on compatibility charts alone, then wonder why everything fell apart within a month. Charts are useful reference tools, but they can’t account for the full picture: your specific fish’s personality, your tank’s layout, your water parameters, and the order you added fish. Use the chart to narrow down your options. Use the framework in this guide to make the final call.

The Four-Factor Compatibility Framework

Before you look at any chart, run through these four factors in order. They are listed by priority. If a pair of fish fails the first check, the rest do not matter.

ASD Compatibility Decision Tiers

Check 1 (Non-Negotiable): Water Temperature. If the temperature ranges do not overlap by at least 3 to 4 degrees, these fish cannot share a tank. This eliminates goldfish with tropicals, discus with most community fish, and other mismatches right away.

Check 2 (Critical): pH and Water Chemistry. African cichlids need hard, alkaline water (pH 7.8 to 8.5). South American species like discus and apistos need soft, acidic water (pH 5.5 to 6.8). These groups cannot share a tank, regardless of what any chart says about temperament.

Check 3 (Important): Size and Predation Risk. Any fish that can fit another in its mouth will eventually try, especially at night. If the size ratio is greater than 3:1, the smaller fish is at risk. This is not speculation. It happens.

Check 4 (Variable): Temperament and Behavior. This is where the chart is most useful. But remember: species labels are averages. An individual fish can be significantly more or less aggressive than its species profile suggests. Breeding behavior changes everything for cichlids. Tank size, layout, and introduction order all shift the outcome.

Water Temperature: The First Cut

This is the check most beginners skip, and it causes more stocking failures than any other single factor. Here are the ranges you need to know before buying anything:

Cold water (60 to 72°F / 16 to 22°C): Goldfish, white cloud mountain minnows, weather loaches
Standard tropical (72 to 78°F / 22 to 26°C): Most community fish – tetras, barbs, corydoras, livebearers, rasboras
Warm tropical (78 to 82°F / 26 to 28°C): Discus, rams, many South American dwarf cichlids, altum angelfish
African cichlid range (76 to 82°F / 24 to 28°C): Overlaps with warm tropical, but chemistry requirements don’t

Goldfish and tropical fish is the most common beginner mistake. A goldfish needs 60 to 68°F (16 to 20°C) to thrive. A betta needs 76 to 82°F (24 to 28°C). There is no temperature where both are genuinely comfortable. One or both fish will be permanently stressed.

pH and Water Chemistry: The Second Cut

Most community freshwater fish tolerate a pH range of 6.5 to 7.5. The exceptions are the ones that cause problems when mixed incorrectly.

Soft, acidic water specialists: Discus, cardinal tetras, most South American dwarf cichlids (apistos, blue rams). Target pH 5.5 to 6.8, very soft.
Hard, alkaline specialists: African cichlids (Lake Malawi, Lake Tanganyika). Target pH 7.8 to 8.5, very hard.
Flexible: Most danios, most barbs, some tetras, livebearers (prefer slightly hard), corydoras. These fish tolerate a wide range and are the backbone of community tanks.

If you are keeping African cichlids, their tank mates need to tolerate hard, alkaline water. Very few community fish do. This is why most African cichlid tanks are species-only or cichlid-only setups. It is not just about aggression. The water chemistry locks out most other options.

Size and Predation Risk: The Third Cut

This one is simple in principle and endlessly ignored in practice. If it fits in the mouth, it will eventually end up in the mouth. This is true even of fish not generally considered aggressive predators. Angelfish are a good example. They are sold as peaceful community fish, and they are, until they are paired with neon tetras. Neons are exactly the size that triggers an angelfish’s feeding response. This combination fails routinely.

Size ratio guideline: if fish A is more than three times the length of fish B, fish B is at risk. At night, with lights off, fish A will investigate.

Temperament and Behavior: Using the Chart Correctly

Temperament labels on charts fall into three broad categories: peaceful, semi-aggressive, and aggressive. Here is what those actually mean in practice.

Peaceful: Generally does not initiate aggression. Will still defend territory during breeding. Will still compete for food. May bully smaller or slower fish if they are significantly smaller.
Semi-aggressive: May nip, harass, or outcompete tank mates depending on group size, tank layout, and individual personality. Tiger barbs in a school of 15 are very different from tiger barbs in a school of 5.
Aggressive: Will establish territory and defend it, often with force. Some can be housed with tank mates that are similar in size and temperament; others (like most large oscars and jack dempseys) do best solo or in species-only setups.

Freshwater Compatibility Chart

Below is a general freshwater compatibility reference. Use it after running the four-factor framework above. Keep in mind that “C” (conditional) entries depend heavily on tank size, layout, and individual fish personalities.

Saltwater Compatibility Chart

Marine fish compatibility is more complex than freshwater. In a reef environment, fish are constantly competing for shelter and territory, which is a survival behavior hardwired from living in the coral reef. Even fish labeled as “peaceful” can be aggressive in the confines of a home aquarium.

Personalities vary more in saltwater fish than freshwater. A yellow tang can be genuinely peaceful in one tank and a tyrant in another. This is especially important when determining reef-safe status. Always check species-specific profiles before adding any saltwater fish to an established reef.

Tank Layout and Introduction Order

Two variables that charts cannot capture at all are how the tank is set up and the order new fish are introduced.

Layout matters for territorial fish. Cichlids, bettas, and many semi-aggressive species are significantly less aggressive in a tank with dense decoration that breaks line of sight. Rocks, driftwood, and plants create natural territory boundaries. A cichlid that would destroy tank mates in an empty 55-gallon tank may coexist reasonably well in a well-scaped version of the same tank.

Introduction order matters for established fish. Any fish already in the tank has established territory. Adding a new fish of the same species or similar temperament into established territory triggers aggression. The established fish sees the new arrival as an intruder. Adding multiple fish at once, or rearranging the tank before introducing new fish, resets the territorial dynamic and reduces fighting significantly.

Mark’s Pick: Best Tank Layouts for Compatibility

If you are keeping fish that show any territorial tendency, invest in hardscape. Manzanita driftwood is my recommendation for community and cichlid tanks alike. It creates natural cover, breaks line of sight, and looks genuinely good. A tank with proper hardscape is fundamentally more stable than one without, especially when mixing semi-aggressive species.

Common Compatibility Mistakes I See Repeatedly

Avoid These Stocking Mistakes

Goldfish with tropical fish. Different temperature needs. This always fails eventually, even if both fish seem okay short-term.
Angelfish with neon tetras. Neons are angel food. The size ratio triggers predation even in normally peaceful angels.
Bettas with fin-nipping species. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and other nippers will destroy a betta’s fins. The betta cannot defend itself effectively against a fast-moving school.
African cichlids with community fish. The water chemistry requirements alone make this wrong. The aggression makes it worse.
Discus with most standard tropicals. Discus need 82 to 86°F (28 to 30°C), which is too warm for most community fish. They also need soft, acidic water. This is a specialist tank, not a community tank.
Trusting “peaceful” labels for large fish. A “peaceful” oscar is still a large fish with a large mouth. It will eat anything small enough to fit.

Introducing New Fish to an Existing Tank

The introduction process is as important as the species selection. A fish that would be compatible under normal circumstances can be rejected if introduced incorrectly.

The basic protocol: float the bag to equalize temperature, slowly add tank water to the bag over 15 to 30 minutes, then net the new fish into the tank without adding bag water. For more aggressive tanks, rearrange the decor before introducing the new fish to disrupt existing territory claims.

For any new fish, quarantine for 2 to 4 weeks before introducing to an established tank. This protects your existing fish from disease and gives you time to observe the new fish for illness.

FAQ

What freshwater fish are most compatible with each other?

The most universally compatible freshwater fish are those in the “flexible” chemistry category with peaceful temperaments: corydoras, most danios, smaller gouramis, peaceful tetras (not serpae), cherry barbs, rasboras, and otocinclus. These species tolerate a wide pH range, have similar temperature needs, and are not aggressive toward tank mates of similar size.

How do you know if fish can live together?

Run the four-factor check in order: temperature overlap, water chemistry match, size ratio, then temperament. All four need to check out before you commit. If any of the first three fail, do not add the fish regardless of what the compatibility chart says about temperament.

Which fish should not be kept together?

The most common incompatible combinations are goldfish with tropical fish (temperature), African cichlids with community fish (chemistry and aggression), discus with standard community tropicals (temperature and chemistry), angelfish with nano fish (predation), and bettas with fin nippers (harassment).

What is a good fish combination for a community tank?

A well-balanced community tank uses all three levels of the water column: bottom (corydoras, otocinclus), mid-level (tetras, rasboras, barbs, danios), and surface or upper-mid (gouramis, hatchetfish). Choose species with overlapping temperature and pH requirements. Stick to a consistent size range. Add a centerpiece fish (a single betta, a pair of angels, a small gourami species) if you want a focal point.

Does tank size affect compatibility?

Yes, significantly. Many compatibility problems are aggression problems driven by insufficient space. A pair of convict cichlids in a 20-gallon tank is a recipe for conflict. The same pair in a 55-gallon with proper layout may do fine. When in doubt, go bigger and add more decoration. Space and visual barriers resolve more compatibility issues than any other single factor.

Closing Thoughts

The charts in this guide are a solid reference, but they are a starting point, not a final answer. Run the four-factor framework before adding any new fish. Check temperature first, chemistry second, size ratio third, then temperament. A tank that passes all four checks can still fail due to individual fish personality, poor introduction timing, or inadequate layout. A tank that fails any of the first three checks will always fail.

When you are unsure, build the habitat first. The right hardscape, the right water parameters, and the right introduction sequence solve more compatibility problems than choosing a different species. If you have a specific stocking question, drop it in the comments and I’ll give you my honest read on it.

Quick Compatibility Reference

Fish Group	Temp Range	pH Range	Temperament	Compatible With
Community tropicals (tetras, rasboras, danios, corydoras)	72 to 78°F (22 to 26°C)	6.5 to 7.5	Peaceful	Most other peaceful community fish
Livebearers (guppies, mollies, platies)	72 to 82°F (22 to 28°C)	7.0 to 8.5	Peaceful	Community fish with similar hardness needs
African cichlids	77 to 82°F (25 to 28°C)	7.8 to 8.5	Aggressive	Synodontis catfish, similar cichlids only
Discus	82 to 86°F (28 to 30°C)	5.5 to 6.5	Peaceful	Cardinal tetras, altum angels (specialist only)
Goldfish	60 to 68°F (15 to 20°C)	7.0 to 8.0	Peaceful	Goldfish only. Not compatible with tropicals.

Shop Quality Fish Online

These are the suppliers I trust for healthy, quarantined livestock:

Flip Aquatics – Quarantine-certified livestock and a strong live arrival guarantee. My go-to recommendation for online fish purchases.
Dan’s Fish – Reliable source for a wide range of community and specialty species.

January 3, 2022

Fancy Goldfish Types – 12 Best (With Pictures)

Goldfish are not the easy starter fish the pet store tries to sell you. They’re cold-water fish that produce more waste than most tropical species, need far more space than anyone expects, and can live 10-15 years when kept properly. Most goldfish die within a year because they’re kept in undersized tanks with inadequate filtration. The ones that don’t die early often spend their lives stunted and pale. Kept correctly? They’re some of the most impressive fish in the hobby. Fancy varieties especially, with their flowing fins, dramatic head growths, and body shapes that look like they were designed by someone who never met a real fish, are genuinely spectacular display animals. Here are the 12 best fancy goldfish types and what you actually need to keep them right.

A fancy goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

Key Takeaways

Fancy goldfish need 20 gallons (76 L) per fish minimum. This is not a suggestion.
Fancy goldfish cannot compete with single-tail (common/comet) goldfish for food. Never house them together.
Swim bladder issues are common in round-bodied fancy varieties (ranchu, pearlscale, oranda). Sinking pellets and dietary management are essential.
They’re cold-water fish: 65-72°F (18-22°C). Most homes don’t need a heater, but if your house gets warm, you may need a chiller.
Lifespan is 10-15 years with proper care. These are long-term commitments, not starter pets.
Pond vs. indoor tank: Many fancy varieties do better indoors due to their delicate fins and eyes. Single-tails are better pond candidates.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

Fancy goldfish get dismissed as beginner fish, which is the biggest reason most people fail with them. These are actually intermediate-level fish with specific requirements around temperature, filtration, tank size, and diet. The swim bladder issue alone eliminates floating foods for many round-bodied varieties. From my time in fish stores, the most successful indoor fancy goldfish setups run heavy filtration (rated 2x the tank volume), weekly 25-30% water changes, and sinking pellets as the primary food. Do that and you’ll have healthy, long-lived fish. Skip any of those elements and you’ll be replacing fish every year.

What Is a Fancy Goldfish?

All domestic goldfish are descended from Carassius auratus, wild goldfish native to China and Eastern Asia. Selective breeding over more than 1,000 years produced the dramatic variety we have today. “Fancy goldfish” refers to the double-tailed, ornamental varieties bred for dramatic body shapes, head growths, and fin formations.

The key distinction between fancy and single-tail goldfish:

Single-tail: Common goldfish, comets, shubunkins. Fast, competitive, hardy. Better for ponds.
Fancy (double-tail): Fantail, ranchu, oranda, telescope, pearlscale, etc. Slower, rounder body, more delicate. Better for indoor tanks.

Never mix single-tail and fancy goldfish. Single-tails outcompete fancies for food and will stress them chronically. The fancy fish will lose and eventually starve despite being fed.

Important terminology before we cover the breeds:

Caudal fin: Tail fin
Dorsal fin: Fin on top of the back
Hood (wen): Fleshy growth on the head, characteristic of oranda, ranchu, and lionhead breeds
Telescope eyes: Protruding eyes that extend from the sides of the head
Metallic scales: Glossy, reflective, single-colored
Nacreous scales: Multicolored, like calico patterns
Matte scales: Translucent, no color reflection

ASD Fancy Goldfish Difficulty Tiers

Most Manageable: Fantail, ryukin, veiltail (most forgiving body shapes, better swimmers)

Intermediate: Oranda, ranchu, lionhead, lionchu, black moor (hood and eye considerations)

Advanced: Bubble eye, telescope, celestial eye, pearlscale (high swim bladder risk, injury risk, require specialized care)

12 Fancy Goldfish Types

1. Fantail

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Double tail, egg-shaped body

The fantail goldfish is the most beginner-accessible fancy variety. It has the classic egg-shaped body with paired fins and a large, flowing double tail, but it’s still a reasonably good swimmer compared to rounder-bodied breeds. If you’re new to fancy goldfish and want something that’s forgiving while still being visually impressive, start here. Available in normal and telescope eye versions, and in a wide range of colors.

2. Ranchu

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Well-developed hood, no dorsal fin, rounded back

The ranchu is a Japanese breed that’s one of the most prized fancy goldfish varieties in the hobby. That prominent hood takes about a year to fully develop. The lack of a dorsal fin gives it a distinctive profile and a slower, more deliberate swimming style. Because they’re weaker swimmers, ranchu are swim bladder risk candidates: feed sinking pellets, not floating foods. Keep them with other similarly slow fancy breeds, not with faster varieties that will out-compete them at feeding time.

3. Lionchu

Adult Size: 6-10 inches (15-25 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: No dorsal fin, head growths from both parent breeds

The lionchu is a cross between the lionhead and ranchu goldfish, accepted as a breed in 2006. It combines the head growths of both parent breeds with the no-dorsal-fin profile. It’s a newer variety that’s less standardized than the ranchu or lionhead, but well-developed specimens are striking. Like other no-dorsal-fin varieties, it’s a weaker swimmer that needs appropriate tank mates and sinking food.

4. Ryukin

Adult Size: 6-10 inches (15-25 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Pronounced shoulder hump, pointed head, deep body

The ryukin is an ancient Chinese breed with a body that’s at least 75% of its body length in depth: a massive, deep, almost ball-shaped fish with a prominent hump just behind the head. They’re more active swimmers than ranchu or lionheads and are considered one of the most robust fancy varieties. Good choice for keepers who want dramatic visual impact without the swim bladder fragility of the most extreme body shapes.

5. Pearlscale

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Raised, domed scales, spherical body

Pearlscale goldfish have a perfectly spherical body that can reach the size of an orange at full growth, covered in raised, dome-shaped scales that give them their name. They’re slow swimmers with one of the most extreme body shapes in the fancy goldfish world, which puts them at high swim bladder risk. They’re beautiful and conversation-starting but require attentive feeding management. Many keepers feed pearlscales once a day maximum, with soaked sinking pellets, to reduce buoyancy issues.

6. Butterfly Tail

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Flat, horizontal caudal fins spread at 180 degrees

The butterfly tail goldfish gets its name from caudal fins that spread flat and horizontal, creating a butterfly wing effect when viewed from above. It’s a breed built specifically for top-down viewing, which makes it especially suited for shallow ponds or shallow tank setups where the overhead view is the primary display angle. Most specimens also have telescope eyes. Best viewed from above: in a standard aquarium from the side, the tail effect is much less dramatic.

7. Oranda

Adult Size: 8-12 inches (20-30 cm)
Color Pattern: Variable
Unique Traits: Large hood/wen, egg-shaped body, large dorsal fin

Oranda goldfish are among the most recognizable fancy varieties: the egg-shaped body, flowing fins, and prominent head growth (wen) make them unmistakable. They grow larger than most fancy goldfish, reaching 8-12 inches (20-30 cm) in a properly sized tank. The wen continues to develop throughout the fish’s life and can partially obscure vision in some specimens. Keep the wen trimmed if it grows over the eyes: this is a common maintenance task for oranda keepers.

Mark’s Pick

If I’m recommending one fancy goldfish for a first-time goldfish keeper, it’s the fantail or the ryukin. Both are robust, reasonably good swimmers, and don’t have the swim bladder fragility of the extreme round-body varieties. They’re also among the most commonly available, so finding healthy specimens is easier. If you want a more dramatic display fish and you’re comfortable with intermediate-level care, the oranda is the move. They’re the most striking fancy goldfish in a standard aquarium setup.

8. Black Moor

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: All black (may develop orange patches with age)
Unique Traits: Telescopic eyes, all-black coloration

The black moor is a telescope-eye variety with fully black coloration: one of the most visually distinctive fancy goldfish available. The telescope eyes are fragile and prone to injury. Avoid sharp decorations and abrasive surfaces. The all-black coloration can fade to orange or bronze with age, particularly in warmer water or high light conditions. Buy from a reputable source where you can see the fish’s true color and eye development.

9. Veiltail

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Caudal fin 1-1.5x body length, no fork, straight trailing edge, sail-like dorsal fin

The veiltail is a rare breed defined by its extraordinary tail. The caudal fin should be as long as the body (at least), with a straight trailing edge and no fork. The dorsal fin is correspondingly large, giving the fish a dramatic silhouette in the water. Finding truly excellent specimens requires specialty breeders. The long fins require attention: no sharp decorations, no fin-nippers in the tank.

10. Lionhead

Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Large hood covering almost entire head, no dorsal fin, straight back

The lionhead is the ancestor of both the ranchu and the lionchu, developed centuries before them. It has the same no-dorsal-fin profile but differs from the ranchu in having a straighter back rather than the ranchu’s arched, rounded back. The hood development is extensive, covering the entire head including cheeks. Like other no-dorsal varieties, the lionhead is a slow swimmer that needs careful feeding management and compatible tank mates.

11. Bubble Eye

Adult Size: 3-5 inches (7.5-13 cm)
Color Pattern: Varied
Unique Traits: Large fluid-filled sacs below eyes, no dorsal fin

The bubble eye is the most delicate fancy goldfish on this list. The fluid-filled sacs below the eyes are fragile: they burst from sharp decorations, aggressive tank mates, or rough handling. They cannot regrow properly if badly damaged. This fish requires a dedicated species-only or very carefully curated setup with no sharp edges, no ornamental decorations with points, and extremely gentle tank mates. It’s also one of the weakest swimmers in the fancy goldfish world. For experienced keepers who want a true specialty fish. Not recommended as a first fancy goldfish.

12. Sabao (Tamasaba)

Adult Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Color Pattern: Red and white
Unique Traits: Single, strongly forked tail, more streamlined body

The tamasaba (sabao) is a Japanese breed that bridges the gap between fancy and single-tail goldfish. It has a plump, ornamental body but a single, strongly forked tail that gives it better swimming ability than most double-tail varieties. The red and white coloration is striking. This is a better choice for slightly cooler water and mixed-scale setups where the extreme round-body fancies would struggle.

What Every Fancy Goldfish Tank Needs

Parameter	Requirement	Notes
Tank size	20 gal (76 L) per fish minimum	Goldfish are heavy waste producers. Space is critical.
Filtration	Rated 2x tank volume per hour	Oversized filtration is not optional with goldfish
Temperature	65-72°F (18-22°C)	Cold-water fish. May need a chiller in warm climates.
pH	7.0-8.0	Slightly alkaline preferred
Water changes	25-30% weekly	Nitrate target: under 20 ppm before water change
Diet	Sinking pellets primarily	Floating foods cause excess air ingestion and swim bladder problems
Decorations	Smooth surfaces only	Sharp decor damages fins, eyes, and bubble sacs

Tank Setup Details

Tank Size

20 gallons (76 L) per fish is the standard. That sounds extreme for a fish that’s only 6-8 inches (15-20 cm), but goldfish are stocky and heavy-bodied: they produce waste proportional to their mass, not their length. Two fancy goldfish in a 40-gallon (151 L) breeder tank with solid filtration is a well-balanced setup. The same two fish in a 10-gallon (38 L) tank will be dead in months.

Substrate

Fine gravel or sand works well. Goldfish naturally forage at the substrate, pushing gravel around looking for food. Bare-bottom tanks are easier to clean but remove that natural behavior. Avoid large-grain gravel that can be accidentally ingested.

Filtration

Run filtration rated for at least twice the tank volume per hour. For extreme-body fancy varieties like bubble eyes or ranchu, pair a canister or hang-on-back filter with a sponge filter for gentler water movement. Goldfish like well-oxygenated water: an airstone in addition to filtration is a good addition.

Temperature

The ideal temperature range is 65-72°F (18-22°C). Most homes stay in this range without a heater. If your house runs warm in summer, the tank will need to be in an air-conditioned room or you’ll need an aquarium chiller to keep temperatures appropriate.

Live Plants

Goldfish eat most live plants, which eliminates the option for most planted tank enthusiasts. Species they tend to leave alone include java fern and anubias (both have tough leaves they dislike the taste of). Fast-growing plants like duckweed and water sprite can serve as a supplemental food source if you want something green in the tank. Silk plants with smooth surfaces are the safest alternative for delicate-finned varieties.

Avoid If…

You want to mix fancy goldfish with single-tail goldfish (comets, commons): single-tails outcompete fancies for food and cause chronic stress.
You’re planning a planted tank: goldfish will eat most live plants. Design for goldfish from the start, not the other way around.
You have sharp decorations or ornaments in the tank: fins, wens, eyes, and bubble sacs all sustain damage from sharp edges.
You’re feeding floating pellets to round-bodied varieties (ranchu, pearlscale, oranda): surface feeding increases air ingestion and swim bladder problems significantly.
Your tank is under 20 gallons (76 L): undersized tanks cause stunting, poor water quality, and shortened lifespans regardless of how often you do water changes.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long do fancy goldfish live?

With proper care, 10-15 years is realistic. Some well-kept specimens reach 20 years. The typical lifespan in captivity (including most home aquariums) is closer to 5-8 years, almost always because of undersized tanks or inadequate filtration. Fancy goldfish kept in appropriately sized tanks with regular water changes and proper diet consistently outlive their bowl-kept counterparts by a decade.

Can fancy goldfish live in a pond?

Some fancy varieties do well in ponds, particularly fantails and ryukins. However, varieties with telescope eyes, bubble eyes, or extreme head growths are better suited to indoor tanks. Their delicate anatomy makes them vulnerable to predation, UV exposure, and rough weather. Single-tail goldfish are the better pond choice. If you do keep fancies outdoors, ensure the pond has significant depth for temperature buffering and shelter from predators.

Why does my fancy goldfish float or sink sideways?

This is swim bladder disorder, most common in round-bodied fancy varieties. Causes include overfeeding, floating foods that introduce excess air, constipation, bacterial infection, or physical compression of the swim bladder from the extreme body shape. First step: fast the fish for 2-3 days, then try feeding skinned cooked peas. Switch to sinking pellets permanently. If the issue persists, consult a veterinarian who treats fish. Chronic swim bladder problems in fancy goldfish are often management issues, not disease.

What is the easiest fancy goldfish to keep?

The fantail is the most forgiving fancy variety. It has a less extreme body shape than ranchu, pearlscale, or oranda varieties, which makes it a better swimmer and less prone to swim bladder issues. It’s also widely available, comes in many color forms, and tolerates a broader range of conditions than more specialized breeds. Start with a fantail before moving to more demanding varieties.

Do fancy goldfish need a heater?

Usually not. Fancy goldfish thrive at 65-72°F (18-22°C), which most indoor environments maintain naturally. If your home regularly drops below 60°F (16°C) in winter, a low-watt heater set to 65°F (18°C) provides a safety buffer. More commonly, keepers in warm climates face the opposite problem: summer temperatures pushing the tank above 75°F (24°C), which requires air conditioning or an aquarium chiller to manage.

Closing Thoughts

Fancy goldfish are rewarding fish for keepers who take the time to understand what they actually need. The myth that they’re easy starter fish causes most of the failures you see with them. Get the tank size, filtration, and feeding protocol right from the start and these fish will reward you with 10-15 years of one of the most visually striking displays in freshwater fishkeeping. Skip the basics and you’ll be replacing fish every year wondering what went wrong.

If you’re looking to purchase quality fancy goldfish, Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish both stock healthy, properly conditioned specimens. Buying from a source that quarantines and conditions fish before shipping makes a meaningful difference with goldfish, which are already stressed during transport.

Editor’s Choice

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Quality conditioned freshwater fish including fancy goldfish varieties. Quarantined before shipping.

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December 28, 2021

15 Best Aquarium Shrimp Types: From Beginner to Advanced (Plus the Copper Warning)

Aquarium shrimp range from bulletproof cherry shrimp to fragile crystal reds that die if you look at them wrong. Choosing the right species is the difference between a thriving colony and an empty tank.

Start with neocaridina. Graduate to caridina. Skip that order and you will kill expensive shrimp.

I have been keeping freshwater shrimp for over two decades, and the number one mistake I see is beginners going straight to crystal red shrimp or Taiwan bee shrimp because they look incredible. They do look incredible. They also require a level of water chemistry precision that takes experience to maintain. This guide covers the most popular freshwater shrimp types, sorted by what you actually need to know before you buy them.

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

After years in this hobby and working at fish stores, the shrimp mistake I see most often is two things. First, people putting copper-based medications in a tank with shrimp, copper kills all shrimp, period, even at trace levels. If you have dosed copper in a tank before, that tank is not safe for shrimp until the substrate is replaced. Second, people mixing different color grades of neocaridina thinking they will stay true to color. They will not. Blue velvets and red cherries are the same species. They will interbreed and within two or three generations, you will have a tank of brown shrimp. Keep color grades separate.

Neocaridina vs. Caridina: The Fundamental Division

Every beginner shrimp question eventually comes down to this split. Neocaridina and Caridina are the two main genera in the hobby, and while they look similar, their water chemistry requirements are very different.

Neocaridina species like cherry shrimp prefer neutral to slightly alkaline water (pH 7.0–8.0) with moderate hardness. They are forgiving of water quality swings and breed readily. Start here.

Caridina species like crystal red shrimp and bee shrimp need soft, acidic water (pH 5.8–7.0) with low TDS. They are sensitive to parameter changes and will die if water chemistry drifts. These are not beginner shrimp.

They cannot interbreed with each other. But different color varieties within the same genus can, and will. This matters for anyone trying to maintain color quality in their colony.

Shrimp Types by Difficulty

TIER BREAKDOWN

Beginner (Neocaridina): Cherry shrimp (fire red, painted fire red, red rili), Blue Dream / Blue Velvet, Blue Rili, Sunkist Orange, Yellow Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), Snowball Shrimp
Intermediate: Amano shrimp (easy care, impossible freshwater breeding), Ghost shrimp (easy but short-lived), Bamboo shrimp (filter feeder, specific feeding needs), Panda shrimp (Caridina entry level)
Advanced (Caridina): Crystal Red shrimp / CRS, Crystal Black shrimp / CBS, Taiwan Bee shrimp (King Kong, Panda, Blue Bolt), Cardinal / Sulawesi shrimp (very specific parameters)

Top Freshwater Shrimp: Quick Comparison

Species / Type	Difficulty	Max Size	pH Range	Key Trait
Fire Red Cherry Shrimp	Beginner	1.25 in (3.2 cm)	7.0–8.0	Hardy, easy colony, best starter
Blue Dream / Blue Velvet	Beginner	1.25 in (3.2 cm)	7.0–8.0	Same care as cherry; keep separate
Yellow Neocaridina	Beginner	1 in (2.5 cm)	7.0–8.0	Bright yellow; easy colony
Amano Shrimp	Intermediate	2 in (5 cm)	6.5–8.0	Best algae eater; no freshwater breeding
Bamboo Shrimp	Intermediate	3 in (7.5 cm)	6.5–7.5	Filter feeder; needs fine particle food
Crystal Red Shrimp (CRS)	Advanced	1.25 in (3.2 cm)	5.8–7.0	Stunning; water chemistry precision required
Taiwan Bee Shrimp	Advanced	1.25 in (3.2 cm)	5.8–6.5	Most sensitive; RO water required
Sulawesi / Cardinal Shrimp	Advanced	0.75 in (1.9 cm)	7.5–8.5	Warm alkaline water; very specific needs

Top 15 Freshwater Aquarium Shrimp Types

1. Fire Red Cherry Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

The fire red cherry shrimp is the best starting point in the hobby. They are hardy, adaptable, and breed readily in stable conditions. A colony of 20 in a planted tank will grow on its own without much intervention. They are Neocaridina davidi, and “fire red” describes the highest color grade, solid, deep red with no transparent patches.

They do well at temperatures between 60–82°F (15–28°C), though they breed most actively in the 70–78°F (21–26°C) range. One important rule: do not mix fire red cherry shrimp with other color grades of Neocaridina davidi. They will interbreed and the offspring will revert toward wild brown coloration within a few generations.

2. Amano Shrimp (Caridina multidentata)

Difficulty Level: Easy to care for; impossible to breed in freshwater
Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
pH: 6.5–8.0 | TDS: 80–450 ppm | GH: 1–15 dGH | KH: 1–10 dKH
Diet: Algae-heavy omnivore
Breeding: Requires saltwater larval phase, not possible in a standard freshwater tank
Planted Tank: Excellent

Amano shrimp are the best algae eaters in the freshwater hobby. Takashi Amano introduced them to planted tank culture in the 1980s, and they have been a clean-up crew staple ever since. They tackle green hair algae and black brush algae that most other shrimp ignore.

The important caveat: Amano shrimp cannot breed in freshwater. Their larvae require a saltwater phase to develop. The shrimp you buy are the shrimp you keep. They do not reproduce in your tank. They live 2–3 years, sometimes longer with good care. Plan to restock rather than breed.

3. Blue Dream Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Blue Dream”)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Blue dream shrimp are a blue color morph of Neocaridina davidi, the same species as cherry shrimp. Care requirements are identical. They are an excellent choice if you want blue in a freshwater planted tank, which is otherwise hard to achieve.

Critical rule: Do not mix blue dream shrimp with any other Neocaridina davidi color morph. Blue velvet, blue dream, blue rili, red cherry, they are all the same species. They will interbreed. After two generations, you will have brown shrimp. Keep a single color grade per tank, full stop.

4. Sunkist Orange Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Orange”)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Sunkist orange shrimp are a bright orange color morph of Neocaridina davidi. The orange coloration pops against dark substrate and green plants. Same care profile as cherry shrimp, same interbreeding risk with other Neocaridina davidi morphs. Great for a single-species nano setup.

5. Yellow Neocaridina (Neocaridina davidi “Yellow”)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Yellow shrimp are another Neocaridina davidi morph selectively bred for bright yellow coloration. “Neon yellow” and “golden back” are common trade names. Hardy, beginner-friendly, and visually striking in planted tanks. Keep separate from other Neocaridina davidi color grades to maintain color integrity.

6. Snowball Shrimp (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–400 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 2–8 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Snowball shrimp get their name from the white egg clusters females carry, which look like small snowballs. They are sometimes listed as a separate species (Neocaridina cf. zhangjiajiensis) from the standard davidi complex. White body coloration, easy to breed, peaceful. A good option for someone who wants something different from the typical red or blue neocaridina colors.

7. Red Rili Shrimp (Neocaridina davidi “Rili”)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 200–300 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous
Breeding Difficulty: Easy | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Red rili shrimp have a striking two-tone appearance: red head and tail with a transparent or white midsection. The pattern comes from selective breeding for reduced pigmentation in the middle of the body. Same care as cherry shrimp, same species. Keep separate from other Neocaridina davidi morphs.

8. Ghost Shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus)

Difficulty Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 100–400 ppm | GH: 3–15 dGH | KH: 3–15 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous scavenger
Breeding Difficulty: Easy but larvae difficult to raise
Planted Tank: Yes

Ghost shrimp are among the cheapest shrimp in the hobby, often sold as feeder shrimp. They are transparent, which makes them interesting to watch because you can literally see their organs. Hardy and adaptable, they are sometimes recommended for beginners as a test run before investing in more expensive species. They are short-lived (about 1 year) and not particularly colorful, but they do an excellent job as scavengers.

9. Bamboo Shrimp (Atyopsis moluccensis)

Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Adult Size: 2–3 inches (5–7.5 cm)
pH: 6.5–7.5 | TDS: 100–300 ppm | GH: 3–10 dGH | KH: 2–6 dKH
Diet: Filter feeder (fine particles, powdered foods)
Breeding Difficulty: Requires brackish larval phase
Planted Tank: Yes (needs moderate to high flow areas)

Bamboo shrimp are filter feeders. They fan fine particles from the water current using specialized appendages. This means they need a tank with enough flow to carry suspended particles to them, plus the right food (powdered foods, liquid invertebrate foods, or naturally occurring biofilm in mature tanks). A bamboo shrimp that starts scavenging the substrate instead of filter-feeding is a bamboo shrimp that is not finding enough food. Adjust accordingly.

10. Vampire Shrimp (Atya gabonensis)

Difficulty Level: Intermediate
Adult Size: 3–4 inches (7.5–10 cm)
pH: 6.5–7.5 | TDS: 100–250 ppm | GH: 2–8 dGH | KH: 1–4 dKH
Diet: Filter feeder
Breeding Difficulty: Requires saltwater larval phase
Planted Tank: Yes (needs flow areas)

Vampire shrimp are large filter feeders from West Africa and South America. Despite the dramatic name, they are completely peaceful. Like bamboo shrimp, they need adequate flow and fine particle food. They are nocturnal and tend to hide during the day. Available in several color forms including blue-grey and cream. Impressive animals in the right setup.

11. Crystal Red Shrimp / CRS (Caridina cantonensis)

Difficulty Level: Advanced
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 5.8–7.0 | TDS: 100–180 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0–2 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous, biofilm, shrimp-specific foods
Breeding Difficulty: Moderate | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent (active substrate required)

Crystal red shrimp are one of the most popular advanced shrimp in the hobby. The red-and-white banded pattern is visually striking, and CRS are graded (S, SS, SSS) based on the amount of white coverage. Higher grade means more white and higher price. They require soft, acidic water maintained with active buffering substrate (like ADA Aqua Soil), and they do not tolerate parameter swings. Keep KH near zero, carbonate hardness works against the acidic pH they need.

12. Crystal Black Shrimp / CBS (Caridina cantonensis)

Difficulty Level: Advanced
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 5.8–7.0 | TDS: 100–180 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0–2 dKH
Diet: Omnivorous, biofilm
Breeding Difficulty: Moderate | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent

Crystal black shrimp are the black-and-white version of CRS. Same species, same care requirements, same grading system. They can be kept and bred together with CRS (they are the same species, just different color expressions), or kept in separate tanks if you want to maintain pure lineages.

13. Taiwan Bee Shrimp (Caridina cantonensis var.)

Difficulty Level: Advanced
Adult Size: 1–1.25 inches (2.5–3.2 cm)
pH: 5.8–6.5 | TDS: 80–150 ppm | GH: 4–6 dGH | KH: 0 dKH
Diet: Biofilm, powdered foods
Breeding Difficulty: Moderate to Hard | Gestation: 30 days
Planted Tank: Excellent (RO water + remineralizer required)

Taiwan bee shrimp include the King Kong, Panda, and Blue Bolt varieties, some of the most visually stunning (and expensive) shrimp in the hobby. They require RO water remineralized with shrimp-specific mineral supplements, active buffering substrate, and extremely stable parameters. This is not a species for someone without experience maintaining soft acidic water chemistry. If your water has any measurable KH, Taiwan bees are not appropriate without a full RO/DI setup.

14. Cardinal Shrimp / Sulawesi Shrimp (Caridina dennerli)

Difficulty Level: Advanced
Adult Size: 0.6–0.75 inches (1.5–1.9 cm)
pH: 7.5–8.5 | TDS: 100–200 ppm | GH: 4–8 dGH | KH: 3–8 dKH
Temperature: 82–88°F (28–31°C)
Breeding Difficulty: Hard
Planted Tank: Not typical, lake rock setup preferred

Cardinal shrimp come from ancient Lake Matano in Sulawesi, Indonesia, a very specific ecosystem with stable warm alkaline water unlike most other shrimp in the hobby. They need warm temperatures (82–88°F / 28–31°C) that would stress most other freshwater shrimp. They are tiny, stunningly colored (red with white spots), and among the hardest to keep long-term. These are specialist shrimp for experienced keepers who want a dedicated Sulawesi species setup.

15. Indian Whisker Shrimp (Macrobrachium lamarrei)

Difficulty Level: Easy to care for, aggressive toward tankmates
Adult Size: 1.5–2 inches (3.8–5 cm)
pH: 7.0–8.0 | TDS: 100–400 ppm
Diet: Omnivorous; will eat small shrimp and fish
Breeding Difficulty: Easy
Planted Tank: Yes, but risky with other shrimp

Indian whisker shrimp are sold as ghost shrimp in many fish stores, and they look similar. The difference is temperament. Macrobrachium species are predatory. They will hunt and eat smaller shrimp and small fish. Do not put them in a community tank with cherry shrimp or nano fish unless you want them eaten. They are best in a species-only setup or with larger, robust tankmates.

Mark’s Pick: Best Shrimp for Most Hobbyists

MARK’S PICK

Fire red cherry shrimp for most people, every time. They are forgiving of the beginner mistakes that kill expensive shrimp: minor parameter swings, occasional overfeeding, tap water with some hardness. Start with 15–20 fire reds in a planted nano, get comfortable with shrimp behavior and water chemistry, and then consider whether you want to try caridina. Most people who rush straight to crystal reds end up with an empty tank and a frustrating first experience. Don’t do that to yourself.

Critical Rules for Freshwater Shrimp Success

Copper kills all shrimp. Every medication, plant fertilizer, and tap water treatment that contains copper is lethal to shrimp, even at trace levels. Check every product label before it goes in a shrimp tank. If you have dosed copper in a tank before, replace the substrate before adding shrimp, copper binds to substrate and leaches back into the water column.

Do not mix Neocaridina color grades. Blue velvet, fire red, orange, yellow, blue rili, they are all Neocaridina davidi. They interbreed freely. Within three generations, you will have brown shrimp. One color per tank.

Drip acclimate all shrimp. Shrimp are sensitive to rapid parameter changes. Even if the destination tank parameters are good, a sudden shift in pH or TDS during the transfer process can cause molting problems and death. Drip acclimate over at least 30–60 minutes.

Avoid These Shrimp If…

AVOID IF

You want crystal red or Taiwan bee shrimp but have no experience with soft acidic water chemistry, they will die while you are learning. Start with Neocaridina first.

You have fish in the tank that are large enough to eat shrimp, most tetras, all cichlids, and anything over 2 inches will hunt shrimp. A species-only or very small fish setup is required for shrimp colonies.

You have dosed copper in this tank at any point, copper binds to substrate and remains lethal for months. Start fresh with new substrate.

You want Amano shrimp for breeding, they cannot reproduce in freshwater. You are buying them as long-term algae workers, not colony builders.

You want to mix multiple Neocaridina color grades in one tank, the colony will revert to brown within a few generations.

Closing Thoughts

Freshwater shrimp are one of the most rewarding things you can add to a planted tank, when you choose the right species for your experience level and set up the right environment first. The neocaridina group is where almost every successful shrimp keeper starts, and for good reason. They are forgiving, colorful, and genuinely entertaining to watch.

When you are ready to add shrimp to your tank, check the current selection at Flip Aquatics or Dan’s Fish. Both carry quality freshwater shrimp and ship directly to your door.

December 20, 2021

7 Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks – Tested and Reviewed

Five gallon tanks are the perfect entry point into the hobby. small enough to fit anywhere, large enough to create a genuinely beautiful setup. I recommend the Fluval Spec V constantly as a starter tank because of its built-in filtration and clean design, but there are several solid options depending on whether you’re setting up a betta tank, a shrimp tank, or a planted nano. Having set up countless small tanks over 25 years, I know what separates a quality 5 gallon from a frustrating one. this guide covers the best options I’d actually recommend.

With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their tank choice anxiety (and believe me, there are so many aquariums to choose from today). I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best 5 gallon fish tank on the market.

Mark Valderrama’s Expert Take

The 5-gallon is the most commonly mis-stocked tank in the hobby. I saw it happen hundreds of times when I was managing fish stores: someone buys a 5-gallon as a “starter,” gets excited at the fish store, and packs in three or four species before the tank has even cycled. The return visits for sick or dead fish were almost always from those customers.

The right 5-gallon is simple: one betta with live plants, a small heater, and a low-flow filter. Or a shrimp-only tank. That’s it. The moment you try to squeeze in a “community,” you’re fighting the tank instead of enjoying it. These setups reward restraint. Keep it simple and you’ll have a beautiful, stable tank. Push the stocking and you’ll be doing emergency water changes within two weeks.

Mark Valderrama | AquariumStoreDepot | 25+ years fishkeeping

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice!

Fluval Spec V

Built in Filtration
Plant Light
Peninsula Style

Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

Best Value

Lifegard Full View Aquarium

Unique View
Built in Filtration

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Budget Option

Marineland Portrait

Built in Filtration
Price

Buy On Amazon

To those in a hurry, the Fluval Spec V is the best 5 gallon fish tank you can buy today. It really has it all. It has the best of everything of all the aquariums I reviewed in this post – the best light, the best filtration, and the best dimensions. The other aquariums are here mostly due to them being cheaper than this wonderful aquarium.

The Lifegard is a great value choice for those who want to spend a bit less but still want good features that you get from the Spec V. It is cheaper than the Spec V aquarium kit and you can select your lighting unit. The Marineland offers a budget friendly setup that is best used for a fish only setup.

The Candidates – A Quick Overview

Now that you know what my top picks are, let’s look at the others I reviewed. I limited my choices down to 7 as there are a large number of choices out there and I want to limit my focus on only ones I would consider for myself.

Picture	Name	Features	Link
Editor’s Choice!	Fluval Spec V	Built In Filtration Plant Light Peninsula Style	Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Lifegard Full View Aquarium	Unique View Built In Filtration	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
Budget Option	Marineland Portrait	Built In Filtration Price	Buy On Amazon
	Fluval Evo 5	Built In Filtration Coral Light Peninsula Style	Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
	Hagen Fluval Chi Aquarium Kit	Zen style Filtration Lights	Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy
	biOrb Classic	Fish bowl Filtration	Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon
	biOrb Flow	Lid Filtration Peninsula Style	Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

The 7 Best 5 Gallon Fish Tanks Reviewed

Let’s take a look at each aquarium in detail and see why they made the list. Starting with Fluval Spec V. We got a video from our YouTube Channel you can follow along as well. Give us a sub if you like our content!

1. Fluval Spec V

Editor’s Choice!

Fluval Spec V

The Best 5 Gallon Fish Tank

The best filtration, best light, and perfect size. Everything you need to get started. It’s the perfect small tank!

Buy On Petco

Buy On Amazon

The Fluval Spec V is the perfect 5 gallon fish tank. It is an all-in-one tank that comes with a 3 stage filtration system and a light. This aquarium was such a great product, that I listed it as the best betta tank you can buy. It makes the top spot in this round up.

The 3 stage filtration unit is as good as you can get at this tank size. It runs off sponges for the mechanical filter stage, carbon for chemical, and includes Fluval’s biomax for its biological filter media section. I love how they use sponges such this keeps you from having to buy cartridges – which can get expensive over time.

Above is a photo of the filtration unit. The return section as enough room to place an aquarium heater, which gives this system a very clean presentation. The peninsula style view makes this look like a stylish aquarium. It can enjoyed from three sides, which gives you plenty of placement options.

The light is also a big plus. It is powerful enough to work with low light plants. The lid keeps evaporation down and this aquarium stable.

It really is the perfect tank at 5 gallons. The only downside is that it is on the expensive side. Other than that it’s the aquarium to get on this list. Buy it now if it is in your price range!

Pros and Cons

Pros

Best filtration unit
Best LED Light
Looks amazing!

Cons

Powerful pump
Expensive

2. Lifegard Full View

Best Value

Lifegard Full View Aquarium

Lifegard offers a 5 gallon aquarium with built in filtration and a unique viewing pane

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

If you are looking to get an aquarium that presents bigger than it really is, the Lifegard Full View is a great option. It has a patented glass tank with a front viewing pane that is angled. This gives you a larger viewing area when viewing the aquarium from the front.

Like the Fluval, it has a built in 3 stage filtration system that uses a sponge for mechanical filtration. It has enough enough room in the back to place a heater. The dimensions make it easier to install planted LED or reef led system depending on what setup you are going for. It also has a drain system that allows for quicker water changes!

If you are going the planted tank route, the system has an integrated line to place your CO2 diffusor. All of this comes with a very reasonable price. It’s one of the best value buys in the 5 gallon range. The main downfall is the system does not come with a light and the return pump is on the weaker side.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Unique viewing pane
Rimless design
Good price

Cons

No light included

3. Marineland Portrait

Marineland Portrait

This 5 gallon aquarium has the space for a small fish to start out in

Buy On Amazon

Buy On Petco

The Marineland Portrait aquarium kit is a great budget option that comes with a 3 stage filtration unit and a light. The tank comes with a glass canopy to keep evaporation at bay. The price is very affordable. The tall setup makes this tank a bit more accommodating when setting it up on a desktop

The light is a basic one, so do not plan on housing any special plants. The all-in-one chamber also cannot house a heater, so you will need to place it inside the tank. It uses a filter cartridge system, which can get expensive overtime. Given the starting price though, it’s a great budget tank.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Fully covered
Great price

Cons

Basic light
Cartridge based filtration

4. Fluval EVO 5

Fluval EVO 5

An excellent choice for those looking to attempt a pico reef tank. Built in filtration and light means this pico reef ready

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

The Fluval Evo 5 is the Spec version designed for saltwater aquariums. It’s the smaller version of the EVO 13, the budget option choice of my best nano tank post. This tank has everything you need to successful make a pico reef tank (reef tanks 5 gallons and under).

The three stage filtration chambers gives you space to put whatever you want and need for your setup and can fit an aquarium heater in the return chamber. The reef light is adequate for basic soft corals like zoas and mushrooms. I actually prefer the way this is designed over the 13 because I like the more open look on top. It gives a clean rimless like look that shows well on a desk.

If you are looking for a small pico reef tank, this is the aquarium to buy. It’s perfectly designed for it. The price isn’t that bad from a saltwater reef tank perspective.

Pros and Cons

Pros

3 stage filter
Designed for Saltwater
Good start coral light

Cons

Will only support basic soft corals
May need flow upgrade

5. Hagen Fluval Chi

Fluval Chi Aquarium

A great looking aquarium. Accents well in the home. Great for desktops and a great size for a single Betta Fish

Buy On Amazon

Buy On Chewy

The Fluval Chi is easily the best looking aquarium kit on this list. This elegant design starts with its clean horizontal shape and water flow, which are inspired by Feng Shui!

The water flow is made with a specially designed filtration unit. It filters from the bottom of your aquarium and then makes its way to you in an elegant fountain like stream, creating calm for all those who need it most! The water flow is so calm that it requires no modification for fish that need calmer waters, like Betta Fish.

So why isn’t this aquarium at the top of my list? It sounds amazing so far. Well, there are a few things that put me off including the LED lightning and how the filter is connected to it. The light is basic and will not work even for beginner plants.

The filtration system is built into the light which means if either it or your filter fail you have to buy an entire unit. The price to replace the light/filter combo is nearly as much as an entire aquarium kit! It’s a great looking aquarium thought. As long as you are aware of that risk, it shows very well in a home.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Great looking aquarium
Therapeutic

Cons

Failure risk
Tank dimensions

6. biOrb Classic

Budget Option

biOrb Classic Aquarium

Budget Option

A purely self run fish tank that has a classic bowl look. Great price and easy to care for

Buy On Chewy

Buy On Amazon

Want to get a fish bowl, but not deal with the guilt of having one? If so, biOrb is the aquarium to buy. It looks like a fish bowl, but has a filter built in just like all the aquariums on this list. This filter is based with simplicity in mind. It runs off undergravel filtration principles with a few extra touches to work as a 3 stage filter.

You get an aquarium, filter, and light with this setup. The aquarium is designed by OASE, which makes the recommended Canister Filter and Internal Power Filter in my reviews.

The aquarium is only 4 gallons, thought you can upgrade to an 8 gallon. The price is on the high end, putting it in competition with the Spec V. If the Spec V wasn’t such a great tank, this would make it higher on the list.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Great looking aquarium
Therapeutic

Cons

Failure risk
Tank dimensions

7. biOrb Flow

biOrb Flow

A step up in size and funtionality to the biOrb Classic. Lightweight with its acrylic construction

Buy On Petco

Buy On Amazon

Like the barb Classic but want something fancier? The biOrb Flow offers a step up to the classic with a peninsula style setup. It is made of durable acrylic, making it the lighter than all of the other aquariums on this list. It’s a nice statement piece for a desktop.

The lights are good enough for beginner aquarium plants, but will require modification if you want to bit more difficult plants. The price point is near the Fluval Spec V. If you want something different, check this one out.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Great looking aquarium
Therapeutic

Cons

Failure risk
Tank dimensions

Our Criteria

I searched and reviewed a ton of aquariums at the 5 gallon fish tank range. There are dozens of fish tanks available to purchase online. How did we decide what was best? It came down to the following criteria.

Tank Layout

For fish tanks that are only 5 gallons, the layout of the aquarium is going to be very important. Since many of these aquariums are going to be placed on desktops or tables, presentation is very important. One of the best ways to view a desktop aquarium is from 3 sides. This makes the peninsula style the look of choice for a 5 gallon fish tank. I’ll be looking for this style in the review.

Filtration

I want a complete aquarium kit. An aquarium kit should come with a filtration system. Ideally, 3 stage filtration system is included with a bay in the filtration unit to place an aquarium heater. The filtration system should have an easy setup, be clean, and easy to maintain.

Lighting

I would like to find an aquarium kit with lights that are suitable for low light aquarium plants. Having plants make things more comfortable for our future fish residents, but also more stable as plants can help control our nitrogen cycle. I’m going to look for LED lights and if it is part of the lid, even better as that saves me from evaporation issues.

If I’m looking at a pico reef tank (a reef tank that is 5 gallons or less), then I want an aquarium with a light strong enough to support simple low light corals like zoas or mushroom corals.

Price

I want this 5 gallon tank to be affordable and provide great equipment. The best value on my list will definitely have an appealing price without being too expensive or providing junky goods, so that you can enjoy yourself with your purchase!

How I Ranked These Tanks (in order of importance)

Footprint vs. usable water volume: Peninsula-style tanks expose more surface area and give the inhabitant more room to move without adding gallons.
Filter flow rate and adjustability: Betta fish need a gentle current. A filter you can’t throttle is a problem, not a feature.
Lid security: Bettas jump and shrimp escape. An open-top 5-gallon is a liability. I docked tanks that shipped without a lid or with a flimsy snap-on piece.
Build quality and glass thickness: Cheap acrylic scratches and yellows fast. Glass tanks hold up better long-term and look cleaner under lighting.
What’s included: A kit that bundles a usable light and a real filter saves you $40 to $80 on accessories. I factored in the true cost to get a tank fish-ready, not just the sticker price.
Maintenance access: The filter compartment needs to fit a small heater, and you need to be able to reach it without disassembling the tank.

Buy or Skip: The Honest Breakdown

Buy a 5-gallon tank if…

You’re setting up a single betta with live plants
You want a dedicated cherry or neocaridina shrimp colony
You have a tight space like a desk, nightstand, or shelf
You want a low-maintenance display tank that actually looks good

Skip (or upsize) if…

You’re planning a “small community” (there is no such thing at 5 gallons)
You want schooling fish (they need at minimum a 10-gallon to school properly)
You’re buying it for a child who will lose interest in water changes
You want goldfish or any fish over 2 inches (they’ll outgrow it fast and foul the water faster)

Mark’s Top Pick

Fluval Spec V. Not because it’s flashy, but because it gets every practical detail right. The filtration compartment fits a small heater so nothing hangs in the display. The pump is adjustable, which matters if you’re keeping a betta. The light runs low-light plants without a problem. The peninsula view works from three sides, so it looks good on a desk or a shelf. I’ve recommended this tank to more beginners than any other product on the site. It holds up, it stays clean, and it doesn’t require workarounds to be fish-ready.

What To Look For

If you are shopping around outside of this guide, here are a few things to look for when shopping for that 5 gallon tank.

Filtration

A good 5 gallon aquarium will have a 3 stage filtration system, preferably in an all in one aquarium. The filtration until should be large enough to place a heater inside of it. I feel these is important as the footprint of a aquarium this size is very limited. Putting a heater no matter what the size will hinder the presentation of these small aquariums. You don’t want an ugly heater sitting around with your tropical fish swimming around.

Lights

Ideally, you want the aquarium you are purchasing to include a light, as this can be one of the more expensive pieces of equipment to buy. It is preferable to have a light included that can actually support low light and beginner aquarium plants. Most of these lights will be full spectrum or input enough PAR where these plants can grow.

Some aquariums will have specialty lights, such as aquarium kits designed for glow fish. Others are simply fish only lights, which have their purposes for people who desire a simple setup. You will have better stability if you can add plants in your 5 gallon tank. I feel it’s best to have this option. The worse you will need to do is tune down the light if it ends up being fish only.

Design

The aesthetics of an aquarium this size are huge. These mini aquariums are typically placed on desktops, nightstands, corner tables, or countertops. The way they look accent the look of the room. A standard looking aquarium with a plastic rim and cheap hood isn’t going to do. This is because the way the aquarium is designed is going to have a big impact. In a larger aquarium, the inhabitants and inside of the tank will present will even in a standard looking aquarium.

You also want to view the aquarium at many angle, where in larger aquariums you will usually view it from the front due to its size.

What Cheap Kits and Bowl Setups Miss

Bowl setups and budget unfiltered 5-gallon kits share the same failure points. Here’s what they skip:

No filtration or undersized filtration – ammonia and nitrite spike fast in 5 gallons. Without a real 3-stage filter, you’re doing daily water changes or losing fish.
No heater compatibility – tropical fish need 76-80 degrees F. A tank that has no room for a heater forces you to drop a bulky hang-on heater in the display section, which kills the whole look.
No cycling support – cheap kits skip biological media entirely. You can’t cycle a tank with a sponge-only filter that has nowhere to hold beneficial bacteria.
Poor lid design – bettas are jumpers. Shrimp escape through gaps you didn’t notice. A loose lid or no lid is an accident waiting to happen.
Weak or unusable lights – a lot of budget kits ship with a light that can’t grow even low-light plants. You end up buying a replacement light, which costs more than just getting the right tank upfront.

The $30 savings on a cheap kit almost always disappears inside of 60 days when you start buying the pieces the kit left out.

Fish Choices

So you figured out what 5 gallon aquarium you are going to get, now it’s time to figure what fish to put in. There are a surprising amount of fish you can put in a 5 gallon tank. I’ll give you a few options below

Betta Fish (The preferred choice)

WYSIWYG Available!

Betta Fish

Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

Buy Premium Varieties

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A betta fish tank is ideal aquarium a this gallon size. A single male betta fish can fit comfortably in this tank. You can enhance his environment by building out a low light planted tank environment and housing shrimp together with them. The only other tank mate you can consider at this size with a Betta would be snails. Note that Betta fish like warm weather and do best with an aquarium heater.

Other options

Here are a few other options. If you want to learn more about fish for a 5 gallon tank, check out my related post.

Guppies
Rasboras
White Cloud Minnows
Dwarf Pea Puffers
Danios
Freshwater Shrimp – like Cherry and Ghost Shrimp
Small Tetras
Aquarium Snails

Setting Up

Setting up your 5 gallon aquarium is easier than you think. I’m going to walk you through a simple planted tank setup, which I feel is the best way to have success with these tanks. The people at Fluval Aquatics provide a new overview. I’ll provide some commentary to below below.

Substrate

For these types of tanks, I prefer not to go with a planted tank substrate. The reason why is because the majority of these plants will not be rooted and the ammonia leaching when setting these up in a small tank can be really deadly. I prefer to use aesthetics sand or basic gravel that works with the plants you are going to. They also work great with shrimp and bottom feeders.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

Click For Best Price

Buy On Amazon

Rocks and/or Driftwood

Aquarium rocks or driftwood are great for tanks these size. A center piece driftwood works really well for these setups. You can attach live plants to it to provide a natural looking setting while making the aquascaping process very simple for you.

When it comes to aquarium driftwood, the best one to use is either going to be Manzanita or Tigerwood. Both are low in tannis, quickly water log, and are affordable.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

Click For Best Price

Click For Branch Pieces

Live Plants

For live plants, you will want to stick with low light beginner plants. These plants are hardy, easy to grow, and will not require a CO2 system to thrive. Below are a list of plants that will work well in a 5 gallon tank. Most of them can be attached to driftwood, feed off the aquarium water column, and exhibit plant growth in low light environments.

Java Fern
Java Moss
Anubias Nana
Aquarium Grasses
Christmas Moss
Marimo Moss Balls

FAQS

How many fish can I have in this tank?

You can have 2-5 fish in a 5 gallon aquarium depending on the type of fish that you plan on housing. Some fish like Betta fish are better alone, while others like Zebra danios do well in groups and are light on the bioload.

What are the dimensions for this size aquarium?

A standard 5 gallon aquarium is 16″ x 8″x 10″ and weights 7 lbs when empty. Many all in one aquariums at this size do not have these standard dimensions, choosing to have unique presentations or peninsula style setups.

What fish can live without a heater?

The best fish to place in a 5 gallon aquarium without a heater would be White Cloud Minnows. Endler’s livebearers and Danios are also good alternatives.

Are bowl tanks bad for fish?

In general bowl tanks are bad for fish. This is due to a lack of filtration and lack of oxygen input. Most fish bowls are also undersized for fish. You want to work with at least 3 gallons when it comes to housing fish. You can purchase a fish bowl with a filter like the biOrb Classics or supplement oxygen in the tank with easy to care for plants, but in general a fish bowl without a filter tends to be a bad fit for fish.

Is this size big enough for 2 fish?

Yes, a 5 gallon tank is big enough for 2 fish if the the fish species is small. Some examples would be White Cloud Minnows, Danios, and small Tetra types.

Closing Thoughts

A 5-gallon done right is one of the cleanest, most satisfying tanks you can keep. Done wrong, it becomes a maintenance headache and, often, a fish graveyard. The difference comes down to one thing: stocking discipline.

Pick one betta. Or stock it with a shrimp colony. Either way, let the tank do its job without overloading it. Get a good filtration system, a reliable heater, and a light that can grow real plants. That’s the whole formula.

The Fluval Spec V is still the tank I point people to first, and I haven’t had a reason to change that recommendation. If the price is a stretch, the Lifegard Full View gets you most of the way there at a better price point. Either way, you’re choosing a proper setup over a glorified fish bowl, and your fish will live longer for it.

If you have questions about which tank fits your situation, drop them in the comments. I read every one.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

December 18, 2021

7 Best 75 Gallon Aquariums – Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

A 75 gallon is where aquarium keeping starts to feel truly impressive. it’s large enough for cichlids, big community fish, or a serious planted display, and it sits at a size where the tank becomes a true centerpiece. I’ve been in the hobby 25 years and have worked with tanks of all sizes, and I can tell you the 75 gallon hits a sweet spot: big enough for impact, still manageable for most people without a dedicated fishroom. The main considerations at this size are stand weight capacity, canister filtration, and whether to go with a standard or rimless build. all of which I cover here.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

The 75-gallon is the tank where the hobby gets serious. I’ve set up dozens of them over the years — in stores I managed and in client builds — and it’s where you can finally keep a proper cichlid community, a large planted display, or a serious predator build. It’s also where weight becomes a real conversation. Seventy-five gallons of water plus substrate, rock, and equipment lands you north of 700 pounds. I’ve seen stands flex and floors sag because people didn’t think about joists. Floor support and cabinet quality matter more than most buyers realize. Pick the right stand from the start. You’ll thank yourself later.

What To Look For

A 75 gallon tank is a significant investment that requires a lot of consideration before purchasing. Several manufacturers have emerged at this tank size. All are not created equal. Before I start our list, let’s look at the criteria for determining the best of the best. For these aquariums I looked at the following:

Quality
Features and Accessories
Brand Name
Price

Why These Rankings Work — From Someone Who Has Bought a Lot of Tanks

At 75 gallons, every purchase decision has real consequences. Here’s what I weight most heavily at this size:

Glass thickness and seal quality. This is a large tank under real hydrostatic pressure. Thin glass or a weak seal is not a minor defect — it’s a flood waiting to happen.
Stand compatibility and load rating. The stand has to hold 700+ pounds without flexing. Cheap particle-board stands are fine at 10 gallons. At 75, they’re a liability.
Included equipment suitability. Many kit packages ship with filtration rated for half the volume. I flag that in every review below.
Warranty and freight damage risk. Large tanks get damaged in shipping more often than people expect. A manufacturer that stands behind damage claims matters.
Rimless vs. framed. Rimless looks cleaner and gives you better access, but requires higher-quality glass. Framed tanks tolerate thinner glass because the rim distributes stress.

The Candidates

Now that we know what the criteria is, it’s time to look at the list. I selected from a variety of manufacturers and several budget levels. Some of these aquariums are specially designed for certain types of setups like reef tanks. There is something for everyone on this list.

In a hurry? I recommend the Red Sea Reefer 350!

Picture	Name	Features	Link
Editor’s Choice!	Red Sea Reefer 350	Reef Tanks Rimless Sump System	Click For Best Price
Best Value	JB Flat Panel	All In One System Rimless Freshwater or Saltwater	Click For Best Price
	Aqueon 75 Gallon Aquairum	Rimmed Standard Size Freshwater or Saltwater	Click For Best Price
	Current USA Serene	Complete Package Rimless Freshwater	Click For Best Price Buy On SWA
	Innovative INT 75	All In One System Rimless	Buy On Amazon
	SC Rimless Cube	Rimless Cube	Buy On Amazon
	Clear-For-Life Aquarium	Acrylic All In One System	Buy On Amazon

Mark’s Top Pick at this Size

If budget isn’t the deciding factor, the Red Sea Reefer 350 is the one I recommend without hesitation. I’ve seen these running in store display setups and in high-end client builds, and the build quality holds up. The sump design is well thought out — the ATO reservoir sits on top instead of beside, which keeps your cabinet organized and gives you room for a real-sized skimmer. The bean animal overflow makes it genuinely quiet, which matters a lot when the tank is in a living room. If you’re going freshwater, the black background will clash with most planted setups, so factor that in. For reef or cichlid builds, it’s hard to beat.

The Best 75 Aquariums- 7 Best for 2023

Let’s take a look at each aquarium and see why they made the cut!

1. Red Sea Reefer 350

Editor’s Choice

Red Sea Reefer 350

The Red Sea Reefer 350 is a top of the line quality system. Great for saltwater reef tanks

Click For Best Price

The Red Sea Reefer 350 is the premium 75 gallon aquarium that you can purchase today. The 350 is for liters and the total volume when you include the aquarium sump is actually over 90 gallons. However, this 4 foot fish tank has all the features you will want.

The Reefer is a Rimless Aquarium that is expertly crafted and made at Red’s Sea’s manufacturing headquarters. Check out how they make their aquariums below.

Another great feature is the sump and the ATO reservoir design. The reservoir is designed to be placed on top of the sump instead of the side. This give you more room in your cabinet to store equipment and to layout your controllers and modules in an organized fashion.

The overflow system is a bean animal style, the best overflow drain configuration available today. The system comes with it’s own plumbing kit and gate value so you can control the flow into the overflow box. You end up getting very quiet overflows as a result. You won’t get that annoying gurgling noise that you get with standard reef ready aquariums.

This is the top choice if you are looking for a high end setup. It’s expensive and designed for marine and reef tanks in mind. You can use it for freshwater tanks, but the black background will clash with many planted tank setups.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Complete Sump System
4 foot long tank
Rimless

Cons

Expensive

2. JBJ Flat Panel

Best Value

JBJ Flat Panel

The JBJ Flat Panel is an excellent all in one rimless tank. Well built with a quality stand. It’s one of the best medium size starter tanks you can purchase!

Click For Best Price

I really love the JBJ Flat Panel as a first time fish tank. It is actually 65 gallons not 75 gallons, but I felt it was close enough to add to this list. It is an all-in-one rimless aquarium that comes with a high quality stand.

The all in one aquarium setup allow for easy filtration and accessory installs like auto top off systems. For marine fish tanks, you can fit a protein skimmer on the back, as long as the skimmer is slim designed.

The dual overflow system on both ends will ensure you get the surface skimmed properly. The stand is high gloss style, which gives a modern look in a home setting.

It is still on the pricy side for an aquarium, but I feel the all-in-one configuration is attractive. Having this as a 3 feet tank can be seen as a downfall, but you will also save money on lights and wavemakers as you won’t need as much for a 3 feet versus a 4 foot long tank

Pros and Cons

Pros

All In One System
Rimless
Easy To Setup

Cons

Expensive
3 Feet Long

3. Aqueon 75 Gallon

Budget Option

Aqueon 75 Gallon Aquarium

Your standard 75 gallon aquarium. 4 foot dimensions and fits most stands available at fish stores

Click For Best Price

If you are looking for a budget system, the Aqueon 75 gallon aquarium is a great choice. This aquarium is regularly available at most local chain pet stores and at your local fish store. It is your standard rimmed aquarium. While it may not have the sleek look like a rimless aquarium, it doesn’t have the price tag of one.

These tanks are very versatile, as you can convert them into a reef ready or sump system but drilling the back. The 4 foot dimensions give you the length for housing larger fish. Overall, it’s the best budget fish tank you can purchase at this size.

Pros And Cons

Pros

Cheap
Standard Dimensions
Readily Available

Cons

Rimmed

4. Serene 65 Rimless

Current USA Serene 65

Current’s Serene line offers a unique opportunity for Freshwater Aquarists. Comes with a filter, stand, light. You can even pick an aquascaping package!

Click For Best Price

Buy On SWA

Current USA’s Serene line is a new player on the market, and it is a concept I’m really loving. Current’s line focuses on all-in-one freshwater and tropical fish setups with quality equipment to get you started on the right foot.

This systems comes fully equipped with a 48″ Rimless aquarium and a Reclaimed wood laminate cabinet. An OASE canister filter is provided, which is our top reviewed canister filter. You get Current’s Serene’s lighting system to start you if with low to medium light plants.

This is also the only aquarium on the light that provides a frosted background, which is the background you want when you are created a freshwater aquascaping. Did I mention the background is also lit? You get a showstopping lit background and all the key pieces to get you going. This is the best value for a high end freshwater system you can find.

What’s the downfall here? The aquarium is on the expensive side, on par with the Red Seas and Waterboxes of the world. However, both those systems are designed for saltwater reef tanks. This is designed for freshwater setups. You also get a nice discount using my promo code :). Give them a shot. You won’t be disappointed!

Pros and Cons

Pros

Rimless
Complete Equipment
Frosted Background

Cons

Expensive

5. Innovative INT 75

Innovative INT 75

An all in one 75 gallon rimless aquarium with an aluminum frame stand. Built to last. Overflow box is internal, but leaves a clean footprint in the aquarium.

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The innovative 75 INT takes the traditional reef ready systems and puts in a clean bean animal style overflow system. Because the plumbing goes into the bottom of the tank, you can place the aquarium closer to the wall then if it had an external overflow system.

The cabinet construction is the best of the list here. Able to hold over 750 lbs, this is a well engineer cabinet that will last for many years. This rimless aquariums look clean in your living room, family room, or basement. You can also purchase the Innovative accessories like rim nets as all their products are designed to work with their tanks.

I wish this was a 4 foot aquarium versus a 3 foot. Lot of fish tanks you will find online will usually cap at 3 feet due to the shipping costs. Keep this in mind if you are looking for a 4 foot long tank.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Rimless
All In One System

Cons

Expensive

6. SC Rimless Cube

SC Rimless Cube

This rimless cube tank by SC Aquarium has great dimensions for scaping. Comes with sump piping for a full reef ready tank or a high end freshwater aquarium

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I’m a big fan of SC Aquariums when it comes to budget reefs where you still don’t want to compromise. SC provides this excellent 3 foot long cube aquarium that measures 32 x 24 x 24 inches. These are great dimensions if you are looking for a cube aquarium at the 75 gallon tank size. It’s compact, yet large and spacious enough to house larger fish and corals.

SC Aquariums function off a durso style overflow. It’s a old school overflow, but that’s also the reason why you get a cheaper price. If you are looking for reef ready rimless cube, check out this tank. They offer a 4 foot long tank, but it is a 120 gallon not a 75 gallon. The dimensions of the tank are amazing though.

7. Clear For Life 75R

Made In The USA

Clear-For-Life Acrylic Aquairum

This acrylic aquarium has your standard 75 gallon dimensions with a built in filtration system. Made in the USA.

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Acrylic tanks have their place when it comes to a large tank beyond 70 gallons. This clear for life aquarium is a standard 4 foot long fish tank with a blue background. The tank has a built in filtration unit that runs off an old school wet/dry filtration system.

I used to see these aquariums a long when I first started owning tanks in the late 90s. They are for the most part unchanged from their original designs. The acrylic construction makes them very light and clear to view.

These days with low iron tanks, the advantages of acrylic are less pronounced as before. The selling point here is the built in filtration at this size. With a blue background, it is a better fish only saltwater or freshwater system.

Pros and Cons

Pros

All In One System
Acrylic

Cons

Limited Options

75-Gallon Stocking Ideas

Freshwater Aquascape

An Aquascape aquarium at this size is considered competition size. 4 foot long tanks are where many competition tanks are designed from. They can be complete show stoppers and the size is going to be one of the most stable aquascapes you can run.

This will be one of the most expensive types of aquariums to run, and also one of the most impressive aquariums that your guests will see

Fancy Goldfish

Goldfish are large fish that require a lot of space. A 75 gallon fish tank is a great size to house multiple fancy goldfish. They are simple to run and the goldfish are forgiving. They also do not require an aquarium heater.

While they generate a lot of waste, you can support their bioload by investing in higher end equipment. This will be one of the cheaper fish tanks to setup.

African Cichlid

African cichlids are typically need at least a 55 gallon aquarium to build a community tank around. A 75 gallon aquarium provides additional space for territory and bioload. You start getting aquariums with all in one systems, which work great for African cichlids.

African Cichlids also look great in dark backgrounds. Some of the premium level offerings have black backgrounds. Black doesn’t work well with most freshwater setups, but look great with the colors of African cichlids

Discus or Angelfish

Most Discus Fish hobbyist prefer a 75 gallon aquarium over a 55 gallon fish tank for the stability, dimensions. You can build an amazing tank for Discus. You can house 5 to 6 fish with this size and have enough stability with great equipment to not be a slave to water changes.

An angelfish tank makes for a great setup. You can place about 6-10 in a 75 gallon fish tank if you can manage the aggression

Saltwater Reef

A 75 gallon reef tank is considered the best size for a first time reef tank. It has the second best dimensions for a 4 foot long tank and enough size to be stable. With a sump setup, you can keep all the advanced equipment to house any coral and most fish. There are only a few large marine species that won’t do well in a 4 foot long tank.

75-Gallon Setup (Buying Guide)

Filtration

Depending on what you are planning to keep, your filtration needs will change for a 75 gallon tank. For a freshwater tank, you should consider at least a canister filter. Equipment gets very noticeable and loud at this size. Using canister filters over other filtration types will hide most of your equipment and keep the aquarium quiet.

For a saltwater tank. You should either use an aquarium with an all-in-one setup like the JBJ or an aquarium sump. Both will give you access to had high quality equipment like protein skimmers and auto top off systems.

Heater

Unless you are going to run coldwater tanks like a goldfish aquarium, you will need to invest in an aquarium heater. For a 75 gallon fish tank, you will want to have at least 225 watts of heater equipment to keep your water warm.

My recommendation would be to get two heaters and an aquarium heater controller to prevent heater failure and a tank crash. Eheims and Cobalt heaters get my nod.

Protects Against Heater Failure!

Inkbird Heater Controller

Protect your investment with this heater controller. An excellent choice for small tanks. WiFi models now available!

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Click For Best Price

Lighting Systems

Lighting for an aquarium is going to depend on what you decide to setup. For freshwater, I prefer to use the Current USA Serene lights. They have lights for both planted tanks and fish only systems.

Best Value

Serene RGB Pro LED

Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

Click For Best Price

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For reef tanks, the 4 foot dimensions of a 75 gallon reef tank makes it easier to get proper coverage. This is because most light fixtures are designed to work in 24 x 24 space. All you need to do is get two lights of most LED lighting fixtures you will find on the market. For brands, I would recommend Current USA if you are looking for a value option or Neptune/EcoTech if you are looking for top quality.

Stands

If you do not purchase an aquarium that comes with a stand, you can always purchase one of those standard fish tank stands you can find at a fish store. 75 gallons is usual the max size where you will find readily available stands for sale. The link below will take you the one you can find online. You can find others if you go to a local store.

Made In The USA

75 Gallon Stand

This standard aquarium stand will do the job with most freshwater setups. Not recommended for saltwater tanks.

Buy On Amazon

What Budget 75-Gallon Kits Get Wrong

I’ve seen a lot of cheap 75-gallon kits. Here’s what they consistently cut corners on:

Filtration undersized for the volume. A filter rated for 55 gallons does not work in a 75-gallon tank with a heavy bioload. At this size, you need filtration rated for at least 1.5x the tank volume — or a sump.
Thin glass on the side panels. Budget tanks at this footprint often use thinner glass on the sides to cut cost. That’s where the pressure is highest. It’s also where you see the bowing.
Stands that flex under load. Particle-board stands look fine in the store. Six months in, loaded with 700+ pounds, they start to show it. The seam at the top is the first thing to go.
No warranty on glass seals. Budget brands rarely offer meaningful coverage on seal failure. If a seam lets go at 75 gallons, you have a serious problem. Check the warranty terms before you buy.

Tank lid or hood

The fish get larger and more expensive when you start getting into 4 foot long tanks. Some of these fish are prone to jumping. Protect your investment by purchasing a mesh screen or a glass lid. I prefer mesh screens to have better gas exchange. Keep in mind that you will have more evaporation if do not have a lid or mesh screen on your aquarium.

Great For Rimless Tanks

DIY Mesh Screen

This mesh screen kit allows you to create your own custom mesh screen. Protect your fish from jumping with this screen. Does not affect your lighting and spread.

Buy On Amazon

FAQS

How Much Does This Size Tank Weigh?

Standard 75 gallon glass aquariums (48 x 18 x 24 inches) will weigh around 140 pounds. When filled with water, the aquarium can weight at least 850 pounds. You will want to factor in a sump, decor, and equipment if go for more advanced setups

How long is this size aquarium?

A standard 75 gallon aquarium is 4 feet long in length. There are some variants that are 3 feet long like cubes and reef ready setups.

How many fish can you put in this size tank?

Depending on the fish you want to house, you can generally house around 25-30 fish in a freshwater fish aquarium. You can use AdAdvisor for guidelines on freshwater tank stocking.

For a saltwater tank, the number will be a lot less depending on the size and aggression of the fish. Generally 6-8 fish is the limit for a 75 gallon saltwater tank assuming the fish are under 5 inches in length

Is this size tank big enough?

A 75 gallon tank is going to be big enough for most fish. However, some larger fish like predators or large saltwater angelfish will still need a larger tank to thrive.

How much does this size acrylic aquarium weigh?

A 75 gallon acrylic aquarium weighs 65 pound when empty. This is 75 pounds lighter than a gallon aquarium, which weighs 140 pounds when empty.

Should You Buy a 75-Gallon Tank?

The 75-gallon is the minimum for many larger species and the most popular size for serious display tanks. But it’s also a real commitment. Here’s how to decide:

Buy if:

You’re ready to commit to a display-level setup, not a starter tank
You want to keep larger cichlids, a proper reef, discus, or a serious planted scape
Your floor can handle the weight — ideally on the ground floor or a reinforced second floor
You have a canister filter or sump plan already in mind (not a hang-on-back)

Skip it if:

You haven’t checked your floor joists, especially on an upper floor — 700+ pounds in one spot is not trivial
You’re looking at this as a beginner tank — a 40-gallon breeder will teach you more for less money and risk
You’re planning to run a single hang-on-back filter — it won’t move enough water at this volume
Your budget covers the tank but not the stand, lighting, and filtration — those costs add up fast at 75 gallons

Closing Thoughts

A 75-gallon is a commitment. Not just to the tank itself, but to the stand, the filtration, the weight on your floor, and the fish you’ll finally have room to keep properly. I’ve set up a lot of these over the years and the ones that go wrong almost always trace back to one of two things: a stand that couldn’t hold the load, or filtration that couldn’t handle the volume.

Get those two things right and the 75-gallon is one of the best tanks in the hobby. It’s stable, it’s spacious enough for species that need room to behave naturally, and it looks like a serious piece of furniture when it’s done well. The fish you can keep in it are worth every pound of it.

Have questions about which setup fits your goals? Drop them in the comments below.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

December 16, 2021

Reef Triggerfish – 8 Best For Aquariums (And 2 to Avoid!)
Reef Triggerfish are intelligent, aggressive, and will rearrange your tank to suit themselves. They move rocks, eat invertebrates, and bite the hand that feeds them. Literally.

Triggerfish are the most entertaining fish you will ever keep. They are also the most destructive.

Triggerfish are the most entertaining fish you will ever keep. They are also the most destructive.

I want to share this experience with you as I feel these are special fish, when you can house them in the right environment. I’ll walk you through the 8 best reef triggerfish for aquariums, most that will work in reef tanks and 2 to avoid. So let’s get started!

Introduction To Triggerfish

Triggerfish are some of the most interesting fish in the marine aquarium hobby due to their decorated appearances and incredibly bold personalities. Though these fish are full of character and can have beautiful colors, many triggerfish are not reef-safe, which prevents a lot of aquarists from attempting to keep them.

What Are They?

Triggerfish belong to the Balistidae family which only contains about 40 different species of triggerfish, already limiting the short supply of these fish that are available in the aquarium hobby.

Like many other marine fishes, most reef triggerfish originate from the lush coral reefs of the Indo-Pacific. Unlike other species, most triggerfish do not cohabitate with other reef-inhabitants and depend on invertebrates and corals for food rather than shelter.

These reef triggerfish are mean, hungry, fast, and strong. Hobbyists only keep them in predatory setups or species-only displays where there is no risk to other fish or reef invertebrates. Over the years, though, aquarists have experimented with keeping triggerfish in the reef setting to some surprising success.

Before we get into the best reef safe triggerfish for the aquarium, we need to first understand what makes the better majority of these fish not safe for the reef.

Behavior

Most species of reef triggerfish grow to a large size. This, in addition to their muscular beaked mouths and strong bodies, makes them a formidable predator for their natural prey of various invertebrates.

Interestingly, these fish are named after one of the behaviors. Though a predator, triggerfish can easily scare. When this happens, they take refuge in the rocks and use their first and second dorsal spines as a way to secure themselves. At this point, they can only be removed if that large dorsal spine is forcibly relaxed or the threat diminishes. This action resembles the pulling of a gun trigger, giving them their name.

This behavior is also observed while the fish is resting. Attempting to remove the triggerfish from its position during this time can cause injury to the fish. Because of this, transferring a triggerfish from one tank to another can take a lot of time and patience. Hobbyists end up having to transfer some rock along with the fish as well.

Do They Bite?

With such an intimidating mouth full of teeth, how much damage can a triggerfish’s teeth actually do?

Yes, triggerfish can and will bite, even when unprovoked. Many scuba divers have the stories and scars of being chased and bitten by triggerfish on the reef, sometimes resulting in serious injury.

In the reef aquarium, the chances of being attacked are certainly less but never completely gone. Triggerfish will greedily splash, spit, and chomp at the surface of the water during feeding times, making the difference between a finger and the food almost indistinguishable; this behavior is known as hydraulic jetting and is used for uncovering and overturning prey. For these reasons, it is recommended to keep all hands out of the tank and to use tongs when feeding.

More importantly, hobbyists need to be aware of triggerfish biting at aquarium heaters and other equipment in the tank, including electrical cords. If these fish can bite through fingers, they can certainly bite through plastic!

To prevent this, it’s strongly recommended to keep as much equipment as possible in a sump or other external filtration. If this is not possible, equipment will need to be safeguarded with egg crate or other hard plastic. A titanium heater will also be able to withstand the powerful jaws of your fish!

Acrylic vs Glass Reef Aquariums

Something you need to think about before you even consider getting a reef triggerfish is the material that your aquarium is made from.

Many larger aquariums are made from acrylic because it be a stronger material than glass. Acrylic also gives a noticeably sharper and clearer look into the tank, allowing you to fully appreciate the colors of your fish and corals.

However, acrylic scratches very easily. If you happen to get a triggerfish that likes biting the glass or begging for food at the surface, there is a small chance that it could end up scratching the acrylic. This isn’t a huge concern for most hobbyists, but the possibility is there and should be considered.

Diet

Apart from their aggression, triggerfish are extremely hardy and can adapt to most aquarium conditions. They will need to be fed a varied diet of hard, often live, foods that help keep their beaks trimmed.

Triggerfish need to be fed often. They are highly active and need to restore those nutrients through small feedings throughout the day; most hobbyists aim for at least 5 small portions every day.

Because of this, many triggerfish keepers set up a snail culture. This allows them to have a near-constant supply of food that also helps keep beaks trimmed. This is even better than buying from the store in terms of expense and having control over the health of the snail population. Other hard-shelled invertebrates, like clams and shrimp, may also be supplemented.

In addition to these hard foods, triggerfish will accept most frozen foods. As omnivores, they will also accept marine algae snacks.

Reef-Safe vs Not Reef-Safe Triggerfish

There are some differences between reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish. Remember, there is always the possibility that a triggerfish that is labeled as reef-safe may not prove to be so in your own aquarium.

When talking about reef-safe and not reef-safe triggerfish, there are a few levels of compatibility. In general, most triggerfish will leave corals alone; if you find that a triggerfish has taken a bite of coral, it is more likely that there was an invertebrate on the coral than it is for the fish to intentionally go after the coral for food. However, there are some species that are more likely to intentionally or mistakingly eat corals than others.

Then, there are reef triggerfish that don’t eat corals or invertebrates. In the wild, these fish often rely on various types of zooplankton, like copepods, as their main source of nutrition. Not only is there a difference between food preferences with reef-safe versus not reef-safe triggers, but there are also behavioral differences.

Reef-safe species are anatomically different. They have smaller mouths that are higher up on the head to help them capture food in the water column. Because they depend on the water column for food, they are more likely to be in the open ocean than among the rocks.

Reef-safe species are also less likely to destroy your rockwork. Reef Triggers that rely on invertebrates and corals for food is very determined. They will be spitting sand and will even pick up and move rocks in order to reach their food. In return, this can injure corals and make a mess in the aquarium.

In general, reef-safe species are also much less aggressive, though this varies from fish to fish. As always, not every reef-safe triggerfish will be completely safe for a reef aquarium, but there are certainly some species that do better than others.

Different Types

Though there are not many species of reef triggerfish, there are actually quite a few different genera:
- Melichthys
- Odonus
- Xanthichthys
- Rhinecanthus
- Bailstes
- Balistoides
- Pseudobalistes
- Sufflamen
From this list, Melichthys, Odonus, and Xanthichthys tend to be considered the most reef-safe, with Xanthichthys being the most confirmed success.

Triggerfish are smart enough to recognize their owner and aggressive enough to bite them. This is not a passive display fish. It runs the tank.

Each species from these genera will vary in needs, so it is always important to do plenty of research before you go out and buy a triggerfish! Especially since some of these species is very, very expensive and grow to impressive sizes.

8 Best For Aquariums

Here are the top types of triggerfish that are likely to be reef-safe. Remember, this means that they are the species most likely to leave both corals and invertebrates alone. This can always change from fish to fish so don’t take the chance if you’re not willing to lose anything in your tank!

Due to spawning behavior in the wild, not many of these have been successfully bred in captivity. This can cause some prices to be higher and limit the availability of certain species.

1. Sargassum (Xanthichthys ringens)
- Species Type: Xanthichthys
- Scientific Name: Xanthichthys ringens
- Size: 10 inches
- Origin: Caribbean Ocean
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
The Sargassum triggerfish is also commonly known as the red tail triggerfish. These fish are named after the point in their juvenile stage where they hide among floating vessels of Sargassum algae until they are ready to survive open waters. Their second common name comes from their identifiable orangey-red tail at the end of their speckled bluish-grey body.

Sargassum triggerfish are very common to spot in groups among relatively shallow reef ecosystems throughout the Caribbean. There, they feed on crabs and sea urchins. In the reef, they won’t touch corals but might take a bite at any present invertebrates.

2. Bluethroat (Xanthichthys auromarginatus)
- Species Type: Xanthichthys
- Scientific Name: Xanthichthys auromarginatus
- Size: 9 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
The bluethroat triggerfish, also known as the gilded triggerfish and bluechin triggerfish, is an expensive yet eye-catching aquarium fish. These reef triggerfish have a very obvious blue patch around their throat with a lighter dappled grey body and yellow margins on their fins.

The bluethroat triggerfish be found on the perimeter of the reef in loose groups. They heavily rely on copepods as a source of food, which will translate into their aquarium diet.

3. Niger (Odonus niger)
- Species Type: Odonus
- Scientific Name: Odonus niger
- Size: 12 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
The Niger triggerfish, also known as the red-toothed triggerfish, is probably the most commonly available type of reef triggerfish in the aquarium hobby. They have a silky blue body with hints of yellow on their throat; as their second name suggests, they may have maroon-colored teeth.

Though named after an African country, these fish have a large range throughout the warm waters of the Indo Pacific region. They live in very strong currents where they group together and feed on copepods and sea sponges.

Hobbyists have had some success keeping this aquarium fish in a reef tank. They tend to be safer to keep when small but can become quite aggressive to invertebrates and other fish as they age.

4. Crosshatch (Xanthichthys mento)
- Species Type: Xanthichthys
- Scientific Name: Xanthichthys mento
- Size: 11 inches
- Origin: Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Available
The crosshatch triggerfish shares the same secondary common name, red tail trigger, with the Sargassum triggerfish. In comparison, the crosshatch triggerfish is much more expensive and desirable due to its distinctive color pattern of black and yellow; the males have a red tail fin while the females have a yellow one.

These beautiful reef triggerfish is found off the coasts of oceanic islands, including Japan, the Hawaiian islands, and Easter Island. There, they hunt copepods in schools.

This aquarium fish is one of the friendliest species of triggers and will leave most corals and invertebrates alone.

5. Pinktail (Melichthys vidua)
- Species Type: Melichthys
- Scientific Name: Melichthys vidua
- Size: 14 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
The pinktail triggerfish has a very obvious broom like tail that is pastel pink, though the rest of their greenish-yellow body make them less desirable but more affordable. Unlike the other reef triggerfish on this list, these fish actually prefer marine algae and various detritus as their main diet. However, they will also eat smaller fish and invertebrates if given the opportunity.

That being said, many hobbyists have kept these fish in a full reef aquarium without too many problems. Of course, there is a chance that they will eat any present invertebrates but chances is improved with more regular feedings.

6. Indian (Melichthys niger)
- Species Type: Melichthys
- Scientific Name: Melichthys niger
- Size: 14 inches
- Origin: Widespread
- Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
The Indian triggerfish, also known as the black triggerfish, is another common type of trigger. These fish have a near black body and matching fins, though the bases of the fins are outlined in light blue; in good lighting, these reef triggerfish have dark blue patterning all along their body, but this is difficult to see.

The exact native range of the Indian triggerfish is unknown. They are believed to be widespread, with increased concentrations around oceanic islands, like Hawaii. These fish mainly feed on various algae and zooplankton. They have an interesting relationship with spinner dolphins where they both congregate together while the fish feed on the dolphin’s feces and vomit.

These fish aren’t kept in reef tank setups, though they seem to be very similar to pinktail triggers in behavior and demeanor.

7. Picasso (Rhinecanthus aculeatus)
- Species Type: Rhinecanthus
- Scientific Name: Rhinecanthus aculeatus
- Size: 10 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 180 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Not Available
Picasso triggerfish, also known as Humuhumu triggerfish (the official state fish of Hawaii), are very popular and often become the star of the tank. These fish are light tans and whites with paint splashes of yellow, blue, black, and brown.

Unfortunately, Picasso triggerfish is very aggressive towards fish and invertebrates. Though they likely won’t touch any corals in the tank, they will gladly eat larger crabs, sea urchins, and shrimp. Some hobbyists have had luck with keeping them in full reef setups as juveniles, but their aggression often grows with them.

In their natural shallow reef ecosystems, Picasso triggers are territorial and enjoy the open water.

8. Clown (Balistoides conspicillum)
- Species Type: Balistoides
- Scientific Name: Balistoides conspicillum
- Size: 20 inches
- Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
- Tank Size: 300 gallons
- Available As Tank Bred: Available
The clown triggerfish is the fish that everybody wants. This is one of the most colorful and interesting fish to look at in the aquarium hobby, period.

Many beginner hobbyists would love to get their hands on one of these black and white polka-dotted fish. However, they can grow to extreme sizes and need extreme setups. For most, it’s simply unrealistic to keep a clown triggerfish in the typical saltwater reef tank. Unfortunately, this doesn’t stop many from trying to do so.

In the wild, clown triggerfish live on their own and are very rare to come across. They feed on a variety of different benthic invertebrates, making them safe for corals but a predator for crabs, shrimp, and other cleanup crew members. This is one of the few triggerfish species that are available as tank bred.

Species To Avoid

While reef triggerfish are beautiful, there are a few species that common hobbyists want to avoid. This includes:

Undulate (Balistapus undulatus).

Also known as the orangelined triggerfish, this fish is super aggressive. They will definitely eat invertebrates and likely go after other fish in the aquarium as well. Because of this, they should only be kept with bigger reef fishes or ones that are able to defend themselves through poison, venom, or other body armor. They have tough teeth and can damage rocks, acrylic, and fingers. Buyer beware.

Queen (Balistes vetula).

These triggerfish need to be treated like nothing less than royalty. Queen triggerfish can grow to an impressive two feet and can become incredibly aggressive to fish and reef invertebrates alike. This makes them almost impossible to keep in the home aquarium, but something to admire on public display or appreciated from diver videos (like the one above by Rumble Viral).

Where To Buy

Triggerfish are available at local fish stores and several online fish stores. However, you will find large or common reef triggerfish when looking to purchase locally. If you are looking for smaller, tank raised, or even the more exotic types like crosshatches, consider purchasing from an online fish store.

These fish tend to do well when shipped and imported, however, do not purchase from an online retailer unless there is a guarantee on the fish or the fish is a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) fish.

For retailers, I would consider salwaterfish for budgets, liveaquaria’s driver’s den for middle price, and TSM corals for the most exotic varieties. Triggers is expensive. If you are going to spend, make sure your retail backs their fish with guarantees or a quarantine process.

My Pick!

Saltwaterfish.com

Saltwaterfish.com has been serving hobbyists since 1999. They offer a 15 day guarantee on live fish orders and free shipping for orders over $99

Shop Now

Final Thoughts

Triggerfish catch the attention of many hobbyists due to their impressive sizes, bright colors, and fearsome sharp teeth. Though most reef triggerfish species are incredibly hardy, not many hobbyists can actually keep them in their home aquariums due to their potential size and behavior.

Triggerfish are predatory fish. While there are some species that are reef-safe, there is always the chance that they take a liking to your reef invertebrates or corals.

Got any experience in keeping triggers? Leave a comment below.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
December 15, 2021

11 Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases – Symptoms & Treatment Guide

After 25 years in the saltwater hobby, I’ve seen just about every disease that can hit a reef or fish-only tank. ich, velvet, flukes, and more. I’ve personally gone through the heartbreak of losing fish to diseases I didn’t recognize quickly enough, which is why I now run a strict quarantine tank for every new addition. Knowing what to look for and how to treat it fast can mean the difference between saving your fish and a tank crash. This guide covers the most common saltwater fish diseases I’ve encountered and the treatments that actually work.

Most Common Saltwater Fish Diseases

These are some of the most common diseases that are seen in saltwater fish.

1. Ich (Marine White Spot Disease)

Ich’s version is saltwater tanks is Cryptocaryon irritans vs Ichthyophthirius multifiliis – it’s freshwater version. It is considered a moderately serious parasite that infects fish. Ich is one of those parasites that you can either choose to eliminate entirely or manage.

For those that decide to manage it, you focus on having a low stress environment for your fish and managing with equipment like UV sterilizers, Ozone, Diatom filters, or an Oxydator.

Fighting Marine Ich is all about know it’s life cycle. The picture below from Charles Raabe posted on Humblefish’s website is a good illustration of how the cycle works.

Symptoms

Salt-like white spots on fish usually on the fins or body
White spots are spread out and can be counted. Too many to count would indicate a far more serious disease (Velvet)
Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

Treatment

Fallow period (fishless) is 76 days
Copper like Copper Power
Chloroquine Phosphate in quarantine system
Hyposalinity in fish only or quarantine systems
Manage with equipment like UV Sterilizers

2. Marine Velvet

Marine velvet is the most common of what I call the deadly 3. The deadly 3 are 3 of the most serious diseases in the saltwater hobby that have the potential of wiping out all the fish inhabitants of your tank. It is a disease that is not to be taken light, sometimes killing fish before symptoms show.

This disease requires a 76 day fallow period to eliminate and cannot be managed like Ich. You have to wipe it out completely. This disease is the #1 reason to quarantine your saltwater fish.

Symptoms

Number white spots – so many that you can’t count. Almost dust like
Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing
Fish sensitive to light
Fish swimming to current to breathe
Mysterious sudden deaths of inhabitants

Treatment

Copper like Copper Power
Chloroquine Phosphate
Fallow period – 76 days
Disease must be treated in a quarantine tank to fully eliminate

3. Brooklynella (Clownfish Disease)

Brooklynella is the 2nd most common of the deadly 3 saltwater fish diseases. It typically affects clownfish, which is how it got its name clownfish disease from. Other fish can be inflected, but their physical symptoms will look different as you will see white blotches versus white film.

This disease has the potential to wipe out all the fish in a saltwater aquarium. Like with velvet, you can only eliminate it by doing a quarantine and doing a fishless period (fallow) for 6 weeks.

The medication used here are powerful. Formalin is the old school way of bathing and is no longer available in several states. Chloroquine Phosphate is the drug of choice here, but also difficult to obtain.

Symptoms

Powderly white film
Almost web-like white film on fish in advanced stages
Large white blotches on non-clownfish
Sudden deaths with any physical symptoms

Treatment

Formalin bath (if legal in your state) – Ruby Reef Rally can be used as an option.
Formalin bath – 45 minutes
If Ruby Reef Tally – 90 minutes
Freshwater dips can be used if above meds are not available. Bathe for 5 minutes
After bath – treat with Metro + Chloroquine Phosphate
Seachem Metro for 14 days in aquarium and feed to fish with focus binding if fish is eating
Chloroquine Phosphate
Fallow period – 6 weeks

4. Uroema marinum

Uroema is the scariest and hardest to battle of the deadly 3. This parasite has a direct life cycle, which means it has no encrusted stage like Brook. While this may mean the parasite is easier to eliminate, that is not the case. This disease can live without a host, mainly feeding on detritus to maintain itself when fish aren’t available.

You simply cannot get rid of this disease once it’s in your aquarium. It is that much of a nightmare. You can manage after you get rid of fish with sympthoms by maintaining a very clean saltwater aquarium and not purchasing chromis fish – the pathogens favorite host.

This is the only disease of the deadly three where euthanasia is recommended. Once the red sores appears, it’s usually too late to help the fish. Medication used here are strong just like Brook and velvet. Do not take this disease lightly

Symptoms

Red sores on fish
Sores appear in a vertical line usually around the center of the fish
Sudden death without physical symptoms

Treatment

If no sores are present – Formalin or Rally bath to start
If sores are present – Use freshwater dip. Also okay to use if medications are not available
Cholorquine Phophate
Seachem metro treated food with focus to treat internal infections
Euthanasia with clove oil

5. Flukes

Flukes are a hidden parasite that you will often come across with large fish like Tangs. While not serious on their own, it is common for these flukes to cause secondary infections (usually bacterial infections) on the infected sites.

This is one of the few diseases on the list that you can treat for in a display tank using Prazipro or General Cure. You can also use a freshwater dip to provide relief to the fish, as long in this video by Meredith Presley.

Symptoms

Lethargic fish
Flashing, scratching, twitching, and heavy breathing

Treatment

5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
Hyposalinity for 7 days

6. Black Ich

Black ich is parasitic flat worm that usually affects Tangs (picture source). Like flukes it is a moderately severe disease that can develop secondary infections. It has the same treatment as flukes and can be treated in the display tank

Symptoms

Small black spots on body
Spots are raised

Treatment

5 minutes freshwater dip for immediate relief
Prazipro or API general cure to treat 5-7 days, perform water change, then another 5-7 days
Hyposalinity for 7 days

7. Bacterial Infections

Bacterial infections are very serious in the saltwater hobby. There are two types – gram-positive and gram-negative. Gram-negative are more serious and unfortunately the most common with saltwater fish. These infections are typically secondary infections from aliments like Ich or flukes. Wounds will also cause infections.

Treating a bacterial infection requires antibiotics and a quarantine tank. Because there are so many different types of bacterial infections, multiple medications are used. Board spectrum medications are the best to use to get a handle on the infection.

Because you cannot differentiate between a gram-positive or gram-negative infection without a scrape and microscope, it’s best to assume all bacterial infections you come across are gram-negative.

If untreated, a bacterial infection will typically kill a fish. Most gram-negative infections will kill a fish within 1-2 days.

Symptoms

Redness, soreness on body
White film or fungus looking growths
Cloudy eyes
Fin & tail rot

Treatment

90 minute dip in Ruby Reef Rally (one of the active ingredients is an antiseptic)
Antibiotic options
- API Triple Sulfa
- Seachem Sulfaplex + Neoplex
- Spectrogram (only available via American Aquarium)
Treat antibiotics for 7-10 days

8. Head & Lateral Line Erosion (HLLE)

HLLE is a condition that is typically associated with tangs (picture source). There isn’t a definitive answer as to why this condition occurs, but there are several theroies:

Poor nutrition
Stray voltage
Carbon
Stress

Since there this isn’t a disease but more of a condition, this can be treated without medication. Tackle this by addressing all possible causes. Feed your fish quality frozen food and greens like Nori for tangs. Use a ground probing to remove any stray voltage and get any carbon in your filter/sump out of your system.

HLLE will sometimes heal over time, other times the fish will have some scarring from the condition. It’s all dependent on how quickly you can address the issue.

Symptoms

Discoloration of fish
Looks like color is peeling off from fish
White or grey fading of color in patches

Treatment

Increase nutrition with quality frozen food and vitamins like Selcon
Remove any stray voltage with a grounding probe
Remove any carbon from your filter or sump
If fish was treated with copper – increase nutrition condition may heal over time

9. Internal Infections & Parasites

Internal infections can either be worms, parasites, or bacterial infections. Since it’s difficult to tell what your fish has, it’s best to tackle this ailment with a broad medication. General cure + focus is the big practice here with Metro + Prazipro being another combo (General Cure has both).

This is a very common issue with imported fish, but also easy to cure if you catch it early. This is a condition that can be treated in a display tank, though best handled in a quarantine tank before the fish is introduced to the display system.

Symptoms

Sunken bullies (like video)
White stringy feces
Skinny fish that can never gain weight

Treatment

General cure + Focus mixed with food
Treat for 10-14 days or until feces is no longer white for several days

10. Swim Bladder Disease

Swim bladder disease is an all too common issue with imported deep water fish. Wrasses in particular are the most common fish affected by this aliment due to poor handling by the importer.

I’ve personally dealt with this issue several times in my reefing journey. I got so frustrated with this from imported fish, I stopped buying wrasses online unless it was a what you see is what you (WYSIWYG) get wrasse.

You can do the 3 treatments below in the bullet points. Some cases get to the point where you will need to lance the fish to remove the gas bubble. This is an advanced techique that should not be attempted by a beginner.

If you are going to attempt the lancing method (see video above), try to get an experienced reefing member from a reef club or considering calling your local vet. Some vets have performed the procedure with large ornamental fish or koi.

Fish will usually die without treatment as they cannot compete for food and will be subject to bullying. I haven’t seen any swim bladder wheelchairs made for saltwater fish versus goldfish (where these devices are more common).

Symptoms

Fish is unable to swim upright
Fish unable to swim downwards
Gas bubble present in belly

Treatment

Epsom salt – one tablespoon per 5 gallons
30 minute Methylene Blue bath
Metro + Neomycin + Focus in food
Lancing (See video) do not attempt unless with an experienced reef or have a license vet perform it

11. Lymphocystis

Symptoms

Lymphocystis makes this list as it is confused by ich. The disease fortunately is rarely fatal. However, the bad new is this is a viral infection. The fish will continue to carry the virus for the rest of its life. It can be managed.

The healthier the fish is, the more likely this virus will stay in remission. Focus on putting your fish in a low stress environment with a great diet. The virus will come and go, but the your fish can live a healthy life carrying it.

White color growth on fins and back of fish
Starts small, then grows in size

Treatment

There is no known cure
Can put virus in remission by providing a low stress environment and high quality diet

How to prevent many health issues in your fish

Prevention is the best medication when it comes to disease. There are many things that you can do at home to help prevent many of these issues in your fish. Your favorite pet’s health depends on water quality, diet and levels of stress; however there is still more we could do for them! Here’s how:

1. Quarantine New Fish

This is your #1 preventative measure against diseases. Many saltwater fish are imported, which means they go through a lot of stress to get to your home. This stress lowers the fish’s immune system and makes them venerable to disease. Some importing practices are also not ideal, leading to several issues after getting the fish.

You can save yourself a lot of headache and tank crashes by quarantining. If you want to learn more about it, I have a great article on quarantining.

Not interested in quarantining fish? If so, consider working with an online retailer who specializes in quarantined or pre conditioned fish. My top two choices for these would be Live Aquaria’s Drivers Den or TSM Corals. Go with TSM Corals if you can fish the fish you want there – they have the best practices in the industry.

2. Provide A Quality Diet

To keep your fish healthy, it is important that they have a proper diet. A well balanced and species appropriate food will not only make them full but also less likely to fight with other individuals in the tank over meals! Top quality frozen food is the best food you can purchase for saltwater fish. You can also do cultivated live food like black worms, but I’m assuming many readers here don’t want to go that route.

For frozen food, there are two brands I highly recommend. LRS and Rod’s Food are the two best frozen food makers on the market. Both are difficult to find online, but you can find them at specialty fish stores.

Best Frozen Food

LRS Reef Frenzy

LRS Reef Frenzy is well known for being the best frozen food available for reef fish. High quality raw ingredients that fish love!

Click For Best Price

3. Provide Pristine Water (Avoid Poor Water Quality)

Part of establishing a low stress environment for fish is providing quality water. For saltwater tanks, an aquarium sump is the best filter you can purchase. Use a sump to your advantage by installing quality equipment like protein skimmers too keep your tank filtered and consider getting an auto top-off unit to keep your salinity stable.

Saltwater tanks are different than freshwater tanks in that some may not need a traditional water changing schedule. Test your water quality with quality test kits and only change water to maintain your parameters. If you have a reef tank, consider investing in a dosing pump to keep your calcium, alkalinity, and magnesium levels up

4. Reduce Stress

There are a few ways to reduce stress. I explained water as one. The other would be shelther and tankmates.

For shelter, you can provide your fish with lots of rocks. A large amount of live rock and/or dry rock provides plenty of spaces for fish to get shelter in. For most reef tank setups, shelter will usually not be an issue.

Tank mates are the next. You want compatible tank mates. Too many territorial disputes and bullying from aggressive fish will lead to stress, injuries, and disease. Add your most passive fish first and your most aggressive last.

5. Purchase Captive Bred Fish

Captive bred fish are generally healthier and have a better time adjusting to a home aquarium environment. You can avoid a few of the aliments on this list like Swim bladder disease from purchasing tank bred fish. You will still come across Marine Velvet and other serious diseases, but you will lower your risk in getting outbreaks with healthier fish who are used to living in a captive environment.

Creating A Medicine Cabinet

Anyone who has multiple saltwater fish and tanks eventually deals with sick fish. Whether you quarantine or not, it’s a good idea to keep medication on hand for emergencies! Here are some common medications that can help – I’ve added them together in one table so they’re easy to read. Most are available online or at your local fish store. Purchase them now before you are in a bind. Many medications on this list have long shelf lives.

Type	Medications
Parasitic (External)	Copper Power, Prazipro, Ruby Reef Rally, Chloroquine Phosphate
Parasitic (Internal)	General Cure, Seachem Metroplex, SeaChem Focus (To Bind)
Fungal	API Fungal Cure
Bacterial	API Triple Sulfa, Seachem Sulfaplex, Seachem Neoplex

FAQS

What illnesses can saltwater fish get?

The most common diseases saltwater fish can get are ich, marine velvet, internal parasites, and flukes.

How do you identify a saltwater fish illness?

Most saltwater fish disease have the same symptoms. Look for symptoms like labored breathing, flashing, scratching, white dots or film, sores, and discoloration.

There are also deadly disease that may kill a fish before symptoms show. Any sudden unexplained death of a fish should be question as it could be related to a deadly disease like Marine Velvet, Uroema, or Brook.

What does Ich look like on a marine fish?

Saltwater ich looks like small white dots on the fish’s body or fins. Ich spots are not numerous. You should be able to count them when observing at the fish. If you cannot count them, this could be marine velvet. If the dots grow in size, this is likely Lymphocystis.

What does a diseased fish look like?

A disease fish will show one of the following characteristics: discoloration, white spots, red sores, scratching, flashing, and labored breathing. Physical symptoms are a sign the condition has become serious. Action should be taken ASAP to help the fish.

What is killing my fish?

Sudden deaths are worrisome in a saltwater fish tank. Unexplained deaths are likely a result of the 3 deadly marine diseases – Marine Velvet, Brook, or Uroema. If this is a fish that is a quarantine tank that suddently dies, it could also be a result of transplant shock. If your fish dies in quarantine, empty and sterilize and tank. Let the tank dry for 24 hours before attempting to quarantine another fish.

Further Resources

It would be unfair for me to talk about saltwater fish diseases without mentioning Dr. Fish himself, Humblefish. His forum is the go to if you are dealing with sick or infected fish in the saltwater tank hobby. Give his forum a visit if you need immediate assistance. The community there is amazing. They can be a lifesaver in a hobby where Vets are hard to find with experience in these aquatic animals.

Final Thoughts

Saltwater fish diseases tend to be more serious then with freshwater fish. Because of this, quarantining is the best practice. If you come across a sick fish, take action right away. Use this guide to help identify what you are going against. If you have any questions, leave them in the comments below. Thanks for reading!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

December 12, 2021

Author: Mark Valderrama

7 Best 10 Gallon Fish Tanks – Reviews From a 25-Year Hobbyist

What Is The Best 10 Gallon Aquarium (Our Criteria)

Aquarium Layout

Filtration

The 10 Gallon Aquarium Candidates

The 7 Best (2023 Reviews)

1. Serene Aquariums

Best For, Freshwater Tanks, Aquascapes

2. Waterbox 10 CLEAR Mini

Best For, Freshwater Tanks, Aquascapes

3. Aqueon 10 Gallon Aquarium Kit

Best For, Freshwater Tanks

4. Water Box Nano

Best For, Nano Reef Tanks

5. Innovative Marine Fusion Pro 10

Best For, Nano Reef Tanks

6. Dennerle Shrimp Aquarium

Best For, Freshwater Shrimp Tanks

7. Aqueon Ten-Gallon Aquarium

Best For, Freshwater Tanks

What Fish Can I Get For A 10 Gallon Fish Tank?

How to Setup a 10 Gallon Fish Tank

Aquarium Filtration for 10 Gallon Fish Tanks

Aquarium Heaters for 10 Gallon Aquariums

Aquarium Lighting for 10 Gallon Aquariums

Decorations for 10 Gallon Aquariums

Live Plants or Corals for 10 Gallon Fish Tanks

FAQs

What Fish Are Good In A 10 Gallon Tank?

How many fish can a 10 gallon tank support?

Is A 10 Gallon Tank Good?

Is A 10 Gallon Tank Hard To Maintain?

Is A 10 gallon Fish Tank Big?

How much would a 10 gallon tank cost?

Closing Thoughts

15 Best Fish for a 10 Gallon Tank: How Many Can You Actually Keep?

Top Picks

What People Get Wrong About 10-Gallon Tanks

The 15 Best Fish For 10 Gallon Tank

1. Betta

2. Guppy

3. Japanese Rice Fish

4. Endler’s Livebearer

5. Chili Rasbora

6. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

7. Celestial Pearl Danio

8. Neon Tetra

9. Female Bettas

10. Zebra Danio

11. Dwarf Corydoras Catfish

12. Freshwater Pea Puffer

13. Dwarf Gourami

14. Freshwater Shrimp

15. Nerite Snails

The Reality of Keeping a 10-Gallon Tank

What You Need to Know About Stocking Your Aquarium

Debunking the Inch-Per-Gallon Myth

Aquariums Hold Less Water Than You’d Think

The Characteristics of a Good Nano Fish

Size

Hardiness

Behavior

How To Set Up the Aquarium

Filtration

Heating

Lighting

Maintenance

Water Quality

Testing

Keeping Your Aquarium Clean

Growing Plants

Where To Buy

FAQs

Final Thoughts

References

15 Axolotl Morphs: Colors, Rarity, and What to Look For

What are Axolotls?

What Causes a Wide Variety of Axolotl Morphs?

Facts