After keeping these for years, asterina starfish are the most divisive hitchhiker in the reef hobby. Some are harmless detritivores. Some eat coral. You will not know which type you have until you see damage.
Watch asterina starfish carefully. Most are harmless. The ones that are not will eat your corals.
Watch asterina starfish carefully. Most are harmless. The ones that are not will eat your corals.
What Are Asterina Starfish?
Asterina starfish is the common description and parent genus for about 15 different species of marine starfish. These starfish, also less commonly known as bat stars, is found in many ecosystems throughout the world, including the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans.
In fact, species of asterina have been found around coral reefs with temperatures below 50ยฐ F and at varying depths. Most of these starfish is found in shallower reef conditions though they have been observed at depths as deep as 150 meters1.
In the reef aquarium, all species of Asterina are categorized as asterina regardless of their true classification. There are too many superficial similarities between these species to differentiate between the exact type.
In general, these starfish are less than a half-inch wide and have an asymmetrical appearance with missing and uneven legs, which is much different than the typical 5-point radial symmetry displayed by echinoderms.
Most asterina starfish are similar in appearance otherwise. They are largely white or tan in coloration but may have brown or red shading or markings. However, it seems that coloration gives some insight into the behavior of the starfish; some species have been known to be more destructive than others which can make it difficult for hobbyists to decide whether or not to keep this pest in their reef tanks.
The problem with asterina starfish is that they are naturally good members of the cleanup crew despite their appetite for corals. At the same time, hobbyists have had many problems with them destroying coral colonies and overpopulating the tank in a matter of weeks.
How Did They Get In Your Aquarium?
Asterina starfish are a common saltwater hitchhikers. This means that they are introduced into the aquarium by way of something added to the tank, like live rock, coral frags, or used substrate.
As adults, asterina starfish are small and difficult to spot on their own. Add in the fact that they are able to regenerate from a very small piece of flesh and it is very easy to miss an incoming asterina starfish infestation.
How Do They Reproduce?
Like many echinoderms, asterina starfish reproduce through fissiparous reproduction. This process allows them to detach a given leg, which then grows into an entirely new starfish. As you can probably guess, this can quickly lead to an asterina infestation within the aquarium.
In addition to fissiparous reproduction, some species of asterina are also hermaphroditic. They also have the ability to sexually reproduce through egg production.
Are They Good Or Bad?
There is a lot of debate about asterina starfish in the saltwater aquarium hobby. No matter who you ask, these sea stars are known as pests regardless of the benefits they can bring to the marine ecosystem. This is largely due to their rapid reproduction rates, which is unappealing to some hobbyists even though there are many benefits to having a sustainable asterina population.
There is no clear answer as to if asterina starfish are good or bad. Most aquarists welcome them into their reef aquariums as active members of the cleanup crew, but can quickly learn to hate them if there are any signs of damage to corals.
It has always been a question about whether or not these starfish clean up after already dying corals, or if they take the first step towards eating them due to their natural diet.
It is largely believed that darker colored starfish and ones with red or brown markings are much more likely to eat corals than those that are almost entirely white, regardless of if decay has set in or not. Hobbyists have gone as far as holding controlled experiments to test this hypothesis, which resulted in some definite findings.
One experiment, in particular, demonstrated asterina starfish actively crawling over and grazing on a colony of zoanthids. At the same time, they have been seen eating coralline algae, other stubborn algae species, and even cyanobacteria.
Should You Remove Them, From Your Aquarium?
Again, there is no right answer to this question until it’s too late.
The truth is that asterina starfish are likely to make their way into your tank if you’re keeping corals. It can take considerable time and effort to remove every asterina star you see afterward, but removal may be the best option if you have a reef tank filled with expensive zoanthids and soft corals.
As mentioned before, it’s largely believed that the color and species of asterina starfish play into the likelihood of corals being eaten. If you find that you have a dark-colored variety of starfish, then it’s probably better to be safe than sorry. However, if your stars lack markings and have light coloring, then they is a great addition to the cleanup crew by eating algae and detritus while keeping coralline algae in check.
How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium
If you don’t want to take the risk of asterina stars eating your coral, then you’ll need to know how to remove them. The best way to prevent asterina species from entering your system is by catching them before they have the chance to get comfortable. Luckily, there are a few other ways, including several livestock options, that you can deal with an asterina starfish infestation.
Prevention
The best way to stop any pest from taking over your saltwater reef aquarium is by stopping the problem before it happens.
There are a few ways that asterina stars might enter your system. The most common ways are through the introduction of live rock, coral frags, or used filter media. If you’re sourcing materials from a fellow hobbyist, then it is worth knowing if they have asterina starfish in their aquarium. This can help you be better prepared before accidentally transferring a new pest into your system.
Regardless, live rock and coral frags is observed for asterina species through a quarantine process. Corals frags can even be dipped into a coral dip, like Coral RX Pro Dip or Bayer BioAdvanced Insect Killer, for extra precaution. Keep in mind that these solutions may not affect asterina starfish eggs and may leave some adults as well.
Steps is taken to stop these pests from entering your tank. If one happens to get past this process, remember that they have the ability to reproduce asexually at very fast rates; one asterina star can turn into a whole population in a matter of days.
Reduce nutrients and wastes
Asterina starfish are scavengers and opportunistic feeders. They graze on algae, biofilm, and their favorite corals, zoanthids.
As a pest, these invertebrates rely on what is already present in the aquarium to thrive. This means that population growth directly correlates to the resources readily available in the reef tank; a large amount of algae will result in a large number of asterinas.
Though reducing nutrients and wastes isn’t the best option if your aquarium is relatively stable otherwise, it’s a possible solution for at least slowing the growth of the asterina population.
Manual Removal
If you already have asterina starfish in your aquarium, then your tank will probably never be rid of them. However, you can greatly reduce population numbers through regular manual removal.
Manual removal is simple, though additional maintenance. The best tactic is to wait until the lights go out on the reef tank and then remove every tiny starfish you see. These sea stars is humanely euthanized with a coral dip or other solution.
Never try to kill these starfish while they’re still in the aquarium! Any fragments leftover from a dead asterina starfish still has the possibility of recovering into a new starfish.
Otherwise, simply remove them as you find them. Some hobbyists like to transfer them from the main display to the sump, though they can always find their way back up to the aquarium.
What Eats Them?
Luckily, there are a few species that will eat asterina starfish.
It’s important to remember that adding livestock to solve a pest problem is not a temporary solution; your new addition should feel comfortable in its new home long after the pests are gone!
As we’ll see, some of these livestock is challenging to keep due to their dependence on asterina starfish as their main food source. For some hobbyists, these challenges definitely outweigh the risk of having their soft corals eaten though.
Harlequin Shrimp (Hymenocera elegans)
Scientific name: Hymenocera elegans
Maximum size: 2 inches
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Reef-safe: Yes
Harlequin shrimp are the most recommended natural solution for an asterina starfish infestation. These small shrimp have very appealing patterning with pastel blue, pink, and purple spots on top of a creamy base color. They also don’t require much space as long as dietary needs are met. It is the preferred method of many reefers, including longtime YouTube influencer Rotter Tube Reef – who’s video is showed above.
The unique thing about the harlequin shrimp is that they’re one of the few species of shrimp that is truly reef-safe. Instead of algae and other organics, their diet consists of only echinoderms, like asterina starfish. In a matter of weeks, harlequin shrimp will eradicate an asterina problem. After that, a bigger problem arises.
Once all asterina stars have been eaten, your shrimp will be left without any food. At this point, hobbyists need to start supplementing feedings or rehome the shrimp to another hobbyist with an asterina problem.
If you want to keep your harlequin shrimp, then there are a few options for keeping them fed. One of these options is to set up a system solely dedicated to raising asterina starfish. This system does not need to be complex and is similar to a refugium setting.
Another option is to regularly buy echinoderms, like chocolate chip starfish (Protoreaster nodosus) and Linckia sp. (orange linckia, red linckia, and blue linckia). Chocolate chip stars are much more available and hardier than Linckia sp., making them the better option for easier feedings and long-term success.
These starfish is fed all at once or by one leg at a time, though the latter isn’t for the faint of heart; the only advantage to feeding leg by leg is that the starfish will have time to rejuvenate a new one by the next feeding, reducing future costs.
Harlequin shrimp are expert hunters. They will work together to flip a starfish on its back and start to eat its tube feet. They will slowly but surely work their way towards the fleshy center of the starfish.
Luckily, it can take up to a month for a harlequin shrimp to eat an entire starfish before having to buy another.
Bumblebee Shrimp (Gnathophyllum americanum)
Scientific name: Gnathophyllum americanum
Maximum size: 1 inch
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Reef-safe: Yes
The bumblebee shrimp, also known as the striped harlequin shrimp, is one of the most affordable options for long-term asterina control, but also one of the hardest to maintain due to water parameters.
These shrimp are named after their alternating black, white, and yellow stripes that line their body. Bumblebee shrimp are very similar to harlequin shrimp in diet and behavior but are more accepting of other foods outside of echinoderms.
Bumblebee shrimp will actively hunt and eat asterina starfish in the tank. However, bumblebees will also eat algae, waste, and any leftover food they happen to come across. This is beneficial for hobbyists that plan on keeping their shrimps after all asterinas have been dealt with but might interfere with the efficacy of eliminating the pests.
If deciding between a harlequin and bumblebee shrimp, consider how immediate your problem is. Harlequin shrimp will eliminate all starfish within a couple of weeks while bumblebees might take a little longer and is better at population control rather than total eradication.
After the asterinas are gone, also consider how you will continue to feed your shrimp. Bumblebees are easier in the long run, though harlequins are much faster at solving the immediate problem.
Bongo Shrimp (Phyllognathia ceratophthalma)
Scientific name: Phyllognathia ceratophthalma
Maximum size: 1 inch
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Origin: Indo-Pacific
Reef-safe: Yes
The bongo shrimp is rarely seen in the aquarium hobby but has become a popular solution for asterina starfish infestations. Though these shrimp is harder to find than harlequins, they’re cheaper and much more suited for smaller home aquariums.
Bongo shrimp are small shrimp that rely only on echinoderms for food. They have a white body covered in bright orange and blue markings.
Bongo shrimp are extremely shy and do not do well in tanks with large, active fish. Because of this, hobbyists keep them in nano and pico tanks with docile fish that have no interest in eating them; even then, these shrimp are likely to hide in the shadows of the rockwork.
It is believed that bongo shrimp favor brittle starfish (Ophiuroidea class) more than asterina starfish, but they will still greatly help to reduce populations.
Final Thoughts
Asterina starfish are a common pest in the aquarium world that you’re likely to find in your own reef tank one day. For the most part, these tiny starfish are nothing to worry about. However, some species of asterina starfish can begin to munch on zoanthids and other soft corals without any notice. Their ability to quickly reproduce can also cause an infestation in no time.
Luckily, there are a few ways to control and even completely eliminate all threats of an asterina starfish infestation through prevention, nutrient and waste reduction, and manual removal as well as several natural coral predators.
๐ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
Corydoras catfish are my go-to recommendation for anyone asking what to keep on the bottom of a freshwater community tank. After 25 years in this hobby I’ve kept multiple cory species, and they consistently earn their place. Peaceful, hardy, entertaining to watch as they scoot along the substrate, and compatible with a huge range of tankmates. Two things I always flag before anyone buys: corys need to be kept in groups of at least six of the same species (mixed species groups don’t cut it socially), and they need soft, fine substrate to protect their barbels. Sharp gravel will damage those sensitive whiskers over time, and that’s one of the most common preventable cory health problems I see. This guide covers the 10 most popular species to help you find the right fit.
Six different corys is six lonely fish. Six of the same cory is a functioning social group.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks
The most common mistake I see with 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tankss are adaptable.
What Are Cory Catfish?
Cory catfish are small freshwater fish from the Corydoras genus. These shoaling fish are native to South America where an amazing 160+ species are known- with many more probably waiting to be described. They range in size from an inch or so to over 4 inches in length and are solidly built with armor-like scales.
Cory cats aren’t very colorful, but they are very entertaining to watch as they forage around in the tank, periodically shooting up to the surface to take a breath of air. They love to hang out in groups and should always be kept in schools in the aquarium.
Interestingly, the first ray of their pectoral fins forms a strong, sharp spine that may be tipped in toxic venom. This is probably an adaptation to make predators think twice about eating them. They are not aggressive at all, but it is best to not handle these fish with bare hands.
10 Best Cory Catfish Types
Now that you know a little more about these fish, it’s time to jump right in and get to know the 10 most popular types of cory catfish that you can keep. For each corydoras fish species, I’ll be providing the most important stats that you need to know, like:
Scientific Name
Difficulty Level
Temperament
Adult Size
Minimum Tank Size
Diet
Origin
Temperature
pH
Difficulty to breed
Planted tank suitability
We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go into more blog detail below. If you like our video, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!
The pygmy cory is the perfect species for nano aquariums. These silvery schoolers have a prominent black line along their sides, from their eyes to their tails. Pygmy cories are extremely peaceful, and even a little shy around bigger, more boisterous fish.
Keep them with other small fish species to bring out the best in them. A group of at least 5 or more will look great and allow them to show their natural schooling behavior.
2. Longfin Panda
Scientific Name: Corydoras panda
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 20 gallons
Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
Origin: Peru
Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
pH: 6-7.4
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The longfin (video source) is a great variety of the regular panda cory. These schooling fish are an awesome choice for community aquariums.
The long and flowing caudal fin definitely adds to their appeal. Panda corydoras are very social and peaceful fish that love to hang out in a group, so be sure to order at least 5 of them to really enjoy their natural behavior.
These albino corydoras catfish are a pure white version of the bronze cory catfish (Corydoras aeneus). Their pinkish-white coloration makes them really stand out, especially with good lighting and a dark background and substrate.
Albino bronze corys are solidly built little cory catfish that get a little larger than most other types of corydoras. They are a great choice for a peaceful community setup with other similarly sized tropical fish.
The panda cory is one of the most popular species in the hobby. These schooling fish are very recognizable with the black markings on their face, tail, and dorsal fin.
Panda cories bred in the aquarium trade are adapted to water temperatures in the mid-70s, but in the wild, they can survive in cooler water temperatures down to the upper 60s (Fahrenheit).
The habrosus cory is commonly known as the salt and pepper cory. This nano fish species is very similar to the pygmy corydoras but is a little more boldly marked. Another good way to tell them apart is to look at the dark line down their sides – in this species, the line is broken.
Like Corydoras pygmaeus, these schooling cories are active swimmers that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. I suggest keeping at least 5 of these nano schoolers, but go for 10 or more if you have the room!
The paleatus, or pepper cory catfish, is a great species of cory for beginners. These affordable fish are commonly known as the peppered corydoras because of their finely blotched pattern.
Peppered cory catfish should be kept in a small group to bring out the best in their personalities.
7. Sterba’s
Scientific Name: Corydoras sterbai
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
Origin: Bolivia & Brazil
Temperature: 70-77ยฐ F
pH: 6.2-7.8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The Sterba’s cory is one of my favorite corydoras of all. These stunning little cory catfish are very peaceful and look amazing in a tropical community aquarium.
Sterba’s cory is a pretty dark species, that is heavily marked with black lines and silver dots. Their most distinctive feature is probably the golden yellow color of their pectoral and pelvic fins.
8. Simillis Corydoras
Scientific Name: Corydoras similis
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
pH: 6-8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The similis cory (video source) is one of the best-looking species out there. They have a finely spotted body, with a darker area near the tail.
These cory catfish types are a great choice for a blackwater amazon biotope, but they will be very happy in a regular planted setup too.
9. Adolfo Cory-Cat
Scientific Name: Corydoras aldolfoi
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
Origin: Brazil
Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
pH: 5.8-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
Corydoras catfish (video source) are not really known for bright colors, but the adolfo cory is certainly one of the bolder species! These fish are silvery-white with black markings and have a distinctive orange mark on their backs. They are most at home in acidic stained water.
10. False Julii-Cory
Scientific Name: Corydoras trilineatus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Diet: Feed frozen, live, and dried foods
Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru, Suriname
Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
pH: 5.8-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The false julii cory catfish gets its name because it looks a lot like the regular julii corydoras catfish (Corydoras julii). They are striking little fish with silvery bodies covered in interesting plack patterns.
They are an active species that will entertain you with plenty of antics if kept in a nice school of at least 6.
Other Species
There are a huge number of different corydoras species. In fact, with more than 160 types of cory catfish, they form the largest genus of freshwater fish in the world!
Here’s a list of other common corydoras you might come across in pet stores and the aquarium trade.
Julii cory – Corydoras julii
Bandit cory – Corydoras metae
Three stripe cory – Corydoras trilineatus
Leopard cory – Corydoras leopardus
Skunk cory – Corydoras arcuatus
Dwarf corydoras – Corydoras hastatus
Orange laser cory – Corydoras aeneus
Agassizi cory – Corydoras agassizi
Tank Setup
Setting up a great tank for cory catfish is easy. The nano species like pygmy corydoras can thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but many of the larger species will do much better in community tanks of at least 30 gallons or so. As with all aquarium fish, the bigger the tank the better!
Let’s take a look at how to set up your aquarium for cory catfish.
Substrate & Decorations
Choosing the right substrate is more important for keeping cories than you might think! These cory catfish have fine whisker-like structures around their mouths that are known as barbels. These barbels are used to forage for food in the substrate, but they can be easily damaged on sharp gravel.
This is known as barbel erosion and its causes are not universally agreed on. Fine sand is the best substrate choice because this is what the fish are able to dig through without hurting themselves.
A layer of just half an inch or less is ideal because it will allow the fish to search right down to the bottom of the tank and consume any uneaten food.
Live Plants
Growing some floating plants and epiphytes in the tank can enhance the look of your aquarium while improving water quality and oxygenation. The following species are easy to grow and don’t need any special lighting or equipment:
Most types of cory catfish prefer low lighting, but they will also be very happy in a well-lit planted tank, especially if the plants provide some shade. They will also enjoy some hides and caves in the form of ornaments or carefully arranged hardscapes.
Cory catfish need great water quality, so a good quality water filtration system is essential. Many breeders make use of simple sponge filters, but a canister, hang-on back, or internal power filter is a more aesthetically pleasing option for a beautiful display tank.
Any filter you select should provide excellent mechanical and biological filtration. Choose a model that matches your aquarium tank size and is able to process the volume of water about 5 times every hour.
How To Take Care Of Your Pet
Cory catfish are simple to care for, which is one of the reasons they are so popular in the fish-keeping hobby. With the right tank setup, good maintenance, and a high-quality diet, these fish can provide you with years of enjoyment in a tropical community tank.
Read on to learn more about caring for these fun little bottom feeders!
Aquarium Maintenance
Regular aquarium maintenance is especially important when keeping cory catfish. These fish do not tolerate poor water quality well and can be affected by serious conditions like barbel erosion in a neglected tank.
Stay on top of your maintenance by performing a simple water change each week. Make sure to clean the substrate thoroughly with your gravel vacuum, because this is where your cory catfish forage and hang out.
You’ll need an aquarium test kit to monitor the water parameters in your tank. The test results should always read zero parts ammonia and nitrites in a fully cycled aquarium. Nitrates will build up naturally in any stocked aquarium but should be kept to below 20 parts per million.
Behavior & Feeding
Most cory catfish are bottom dwellers that spend their time digging through the substrate or resting on the sand. They can be very active too and often enjoy swimming up and down the tank at high speed. They are very social creatures and just love shoaling together.
The nano species like habrosas and pygmy corys are a little different. They are more active swimmers and will spend their time schooling in the midwater levels of the tank.
Cory catfish are omnivorous and will eat just about any food source you provide. Unfortunately, some inexperienced fishkeepers make the mistake of not feeding them at all. While they do make an awesome part of the clean-up crew, this doesn’t mean they don’t need a high-quality diet.
Cory catfish can be bred at home with a little planning and preparation. You’ll need a separate breeding tank of about ten gallons or so with a simple sponge filter for the best results. You should put in a spawning mop of synthetic wool or a live plant like java moss where the females can deposit their eggs.
A group of 2 females and four males is a good bet and they should be well-conditioned after moving them into the breeding tank. The males are a little smaller than the females and have more pointed fins. Feeding them a high-quality diet including plenty of live/frozen food will get the fish ready to spawn.
Frequent water changes are necessary and replacing the old water with slightly cooler water will often trigger spawning. The spawning behavior is interesting to watch, with the pair forming a T-shape. The eggs are laid on the spawning mop or even just the aquarium glass.
Remove the adults once eggs have been laid. They should hatch after about 5 days and will need to be fed a diet of micro worms once they reach the free-swimming stage.
Tankmates
All types of cory catfish are the perfect fish for community tanks because they are just so peaceful. Most species can be kept with adult shrimp, but you can expect juvenile shrimp to be snacked on.
Cory catfish should only be kept with other small fish that won’t bully them, or try to eat them. They can be kept with other bottom-dwelling species, but take care not to overstock your tank with bottom-feeders. Let’s take a look at some other fish that can be kept with corydoras:
Corydoras are such popular fish that you can find them at most pet shops and aquarium stores. There are some great online retailers like Flipaquatics that have made a name for themselves by selling high-quality stock and making the delivery process super easy and safe for the fish too.
FAQs
How many species are there?
According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!
How many species of Corydoras are there?
According to some reputable sources like FishBase, there are at least 166 types of cory catfish in the wild. There are probably many more species too that are not yet known to science!
How many Corydoras should be kept together?
Corydoras catfish are social fish that love to hang out in groups. In nature they can often be found in huge shoals, so the more you can keep without overstocking your tank, the better.
Is 4 of these enough?
Ideally, you should keep at least 6 cory catfish of the same species together. They will survive just fine in a group of 4 but you might not see them performing all their natural behaviors. They are a natural schooling species.
What is the biggest size?
The banded cory (Scleromystax barbatus) is the largest of all the cory catfish types. They might not be a true corydoras species, but they used to be considered a member of the same genus. These beautiful fish can grow to 4 inches in length and have awesome markings.
Are they good for beginners?
Cory catfish are great fish for beginners. They are reasonably priced, easy to find at most pet stores and work great as a community fish in many modern aquariums.
Is the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Right for You?
Before you add a 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.
This species is a good fit if:
You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.
How the 10 Most Popular Cory Catfish Types for Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species
Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.
The 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 10 most popular cory catfish types for community tanks needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.
Final Thoughts
Cory catfish are amazing pets for tropical freshwater aquariums. They stay small, are sweet-natured, and help to clean up uneaten food from their messy tank mates! Choosing the perfect species can be tough with all the options, but the ten fish in this list are all worth considering for your aquarium.
What are your favorite types of cory catfish? Let me know in the comments below!
After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve kept my share of aggressive freshwater fish. ornery pea puffers that terrorize tanks way above their weight class, cichlids that rearrange decor overnight, and oscars that will eat anything they can fit in their mouth. These are some of the most captivating fish in the freshwater hobby, but they’re also among the most commonly mistreated. People buy them because they look impressive, then stick them in a community tank and wonder why things go sideways fast. In this guide I’m covering 15 aggressive freshwater species I’d personally recommend, with honest context on space requirements, tankmate risks, and what makes each one tick.
What Are Aggressive Fish?
An aggressive fish is any fish that can cause harm to other members of its own species, other fish species, or even the fish keepers who own them. Some of it comes down to the individual personality of the fish, but certain species are just known for aggression. Aggressive freshwater fish can make great pets, of course, they just need a little extra planning.
Freshwater aquarium fish are usually labeled as peaceful, semi-aggressive, or aggressive. What exactly is the difference though?
Well, there is no clear-cut line between these categories but here’s a simple way to think about it.
Peaceful fish don’t fight, chase or eat other similar-sized fish in the aquarium
Semi-aggressive fishcan attack and bully other fish in the aquarium under certain circumstances
Aggressive fish are likely to fight, harass, eat, or kill other fish in the aquarium
15 Of The Best For Aquariums
Now that you know what aggressive fish are, it’s time to meet a few of the most amazing aggressive freshwater aquarium fish that you can keep.
For each fish species in my list, I’ll be providing you with the most important facts that you need to know:
We got a YouTube video from our channel below so you can follow along. We have additional details in our blog, so please view both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we create new video content every week!
After introducing you to 15 amazing species (and 4 to avoid), I’ll be giving you some more background information about what makes these animals tick and how to care for them, so make sure you read to the end!
The new world cichlids are some of the coolest aggressive aquarium fish in the hobby, and the wolf cichlid is a perfect example. These aggressive cichlids are very aware of their surroundings and always seem to be watching their owners.
These voracious feeders are partially piscivorous, which means they feed on other fish. They are best kept in a species-only tank, although some brave monster fish keepers have kept them with tank mates. This is one mean fish!
Jaguar cichlids are a smaller relative of the wolf cichlid above. These beautiful fish are amazingly marked with spotted patterns just like their big-cat namesakes.
Jaguar cichlids have an aggressive nature and they are armed with powerful jaws, and sharp teeth to back it up. These fish can be kept alone or with other large cichlid tank mates that can hold their own.
The red devil cichlid owns its name with a serious attitude and awesome orange color. These aggressive cichlids can be just as mean to members of their own species as they can with other tank mates, so the bigger the tank the better.
Red devil cichlids love rearranging their tanks, so be prepared for the ornaments and decoration to be shifted around.
4. Silver Arowana
Scientific Name: Osteoglossum bicirrhosum
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Temperament: Aggressive
Adult Size: 28-32 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed pellets, frozen & live foods
Origin: Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Guyana, French Guiana, Columbia
Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
pH: 6-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
The silver Arowana is a true monster fish that very few aquarists have the space to keep. These fish grow to nearly 3 feet long, and they are serious jumpers.
This means they need a huge aquarium that is more secure than a maximum-security prison! Arowanas are predators with big mouths, so don’t keep them with any small tank mates.
5. Texas Cichlid
Scientific Name: Herichthys cyanoguttatus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Aggressive
Adult Size: 10-12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed pellets, frozen & live foods, vegetables
Origin: USA & Mexico
Temperature: 70-75ยฐF
pH: 6.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
They say everything’s bigger in Texas, and Texas cichlids have huge personalities and appetites to match. These awesome fish are not fussy when it comes to feeding and actually make a good fish for aquarists looking to start out with aggressive species.
Texas cichlids are the only cichlid species native to the United States. The males are larger and more aggressive than the females, but both have incredible black and iridescent blue speckled bodies.
Oscar fish make great pets for experienced aquarists and can live for up to 20 years with the right care. They have big personalities and love begging for food. These South American cichlids can be pretty mean, and won’t hesitate to eat any smaller tank mates.
Oscar fish come in a few different varieties with body colors varying from white through black, red, and even green. Long-finned oscar fish varieties are also available.
Planted tank suitability: Floating plants and epiphytes
The Jack Dempsey cichlid is named after a famous American boxer. These fish don’t necessarily live up to their name, however, and they can even be pretty shy.
As a single specimen, they are not too aggressive to form part of a community tank, but careful planning is definitely needed. If kept in a group, these new world cichlids can be very aggressive with each other once mature.
8. Red Tail Catfish
Scientific Name: Phractocephalus hemioliopterus
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 3-4 feet
Minimum Tank Size: 2000 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous fish
Origin: South America
Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
pH: 6-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The red-tail catfish is a truly awesome fish, but sadly, most of them never end up in the right home. The problem is that these fish grow huge, and few aquarists have the space and money for a big enough aquarium. Redtail catfish have been recorded at over 80 lbs and nearly 4.5 feet!
With the right kind of setup, these exotic catfish can make amazing pets. They are not aggressive towards other species, but they grow huge and have big mouths, which means smaller tank mates will disappear pretty soon. They can, however, be aggressive toward each other so it’s best to keep just one in a tank.
9. Vampire
Scientific Name: Hydrolycus scomberoides
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 10-12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed live fish
Origin: Brazil, Peru, Ecuador, Bolivia
Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
pH: 6-8
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
The vampire fish, or vampire tetra, sounds like something straight out of a horror movie. These silvery streamlined predators are at home in flowing water, so a tank with strong filtration is recommended.
They are shoaling fish when young, but become more solitary when older. These fish jump too, so a secure lid is essential. Vampire fish aren’t actually aggressive with larger fish but they do have huge teeth and feed on surprisingly large prey. This makes choosing tank mates pretty tricky.
10. Black Wolf
Scientific Name: Hoplias curupira
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Temperament: Aggressive
Adult Size: 16-20 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous, feed fish fillets
Origin: South America
Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
pH: 6.8-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
It would be very difficult to pick a meaner fish than the black wolf fish (video source). These predators are just plain killers. Black wolf fish have huge mouths and powerful jaws, filled with sharp teeth.
They are nocturnal hunters and tend to spend the day lying still at the bottom of the tank. This is a fish that should only be kept in a species only aquarium.
Severums are not all that aggressive, except when breeding time comes around. Keeping a small group of them can reduce aggression, as lone fish can become pretty mean when mature.
Severums come in many amazing color varieties. These South American cichlids are not fussy when it comes to mealtime, and they will happily tear up aquarium plants. It is possible to keep severums with many different types of tank mates as long as they are peaceful and enjoy the same water parameters.
12. Freshwater Stingrays
Scientific Name: Potamotrygon spp.
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 1.5-3 feet across
Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed pellets, live & frozen foods
Origin: South America
Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
pH: 6.8-7.6
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
You probably think of the ocean when you think of stingrays, but there are actually some amazing freshwater species that work great in the right kind of aquarium. Stingrays are cartilaginous fish (from the same group as sharks) and these ambush predators have a venomous spine on their tails.
They are actually very docile animals, but the possibility of a sting is always there. Freshwater stingrays need a tank with plenty of floorspace and depth is not all that important.
13. Green Terror Cichlid
Scientific Name: Andinoacara rivulatus
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Aggressive
Adult Size: 8-12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Diet: Omnivorous fish, feed
Origin: Peru, Ecuador
Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
pH: 6.5-8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
Planted tank suitability: No
Green terrors are absolutely stunning South American cichlids with amazing turquoise green bodies and black and red fins. The males are much larger than females, and have a very aggressive nature, especially around breeding time.
Keeping one of these fish on its own in a large tank is pretty straightforward, but adding them to community tanks is where things get very tricky. A pair of these fish will attack and kill any other fish when breeding season comes around.
14. Mbu Pufferfish
Scientific Name: Tetraodon mbu
Difficulty Level: Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 24 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 500 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed mollusks (shellfish)
Origin: Tanzania, Zambia, DRC, Cameroon, Burundi
Temperature: 75-79ยฐF
pH: 7-8
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: Possible
The mbu, or giant puffer is a huge African species that can make an amazing pet for the dedicated fish keeper. If you want a large aquatic pet with its own unique personality, this could be the fish for you.
Mbu pufferfish aren’t always aggressive, but they are large, and they do have serious teeth! It is best to keep them on their own or with fast-moving fish in a massive aquarium.
15. Pignose pufferfish
Scientific Name: Tetraodon suvattii
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Aggressive
Adult Size: 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous fish, feed live foods
Origin: Laos, Thailand
Temperature: 72-79ยฐF
pH: 6.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Advanced
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The pignose or arrowhead puffer is a really cool and unique freshwater aquarium fish. These puffers are serious ambush predators that spend their time on the bottom, blending in with their amazing camouflage. If a small fish should swim by, it will be swallowed up before it even knows what hit it.
This behavior means they aren’t very active pets, but they are awesome for aquarists looking for a rare and unusual aggressive fish species. They should only be kept on their own because they will eat anything smaller than themselves, and bite chunks out of tankmates that are too big to swallow.
Fish To Avoid
The following fish are species that many aquarists dream of keeping because they’re just so cool. Theoretically, with a large enough tank, you could keep any fish, but the fish on this list aren’t great choices. Read on to learn why…
1. Piranhas
Sure, piranhas can be kept in the home aquarium, but they aren’t always all they’re cracked up to be. Many fishkeepers do keep these toothy characins with great success, but many more end up disappointed.
Even with all the hype around them, piranhas are not always very exciting fish to keep. These notorious fish can actually be surprisingly shy and skittish. Add their messy eating habits and tendency to attack (and eat) each other and you have a fish that’s only recommended for very dedicated fish keepers.
2. Goliath Tigerfish
Although some aquarists do keep the goliath tigerfish, it is really one monster that is better left in the wild. These powerful and aggressive predators inhabit large rivers in Africa where they are well-respected by local people and wildlife alike.
Goliath tigerfish reach a length of 6 feet and 100lbs in weight. It is just not possible for most aquarists to provide these magnificent creatures with the environment they deserve.
3. Alligator Gar
The alligator gar is a truly amazing fish, but it doesn’t belong in a home aquarium. These prehistoric giants grow huge to an impressive size with adults commonly reaching 6 or 7 feet.
They are quite often sold as juveniles, and the new owners find out too late just how big these animals grow. If you see one of these for sale, rather move on to the next tank unless you happen to own a giant public aquarium.
4. Paroon Shark
The paroon shark is a species of catfish from Southeast Asia. This species can grow to 10 feet long, which is an obvious reason to NOT bring one home. To top it off, they are active fish that need plenty of swimming space.
These fish can be very skittish and will crash into the walls of the tank, injuring themselves and causing damage. Oh, and they are voracious predators too, so their tankmates probably won’t last too long either.
What Makes Fish Aggressive?
After reading about all these mean fish, you might be wondering why they behave the way they do. Aggressive freshwater fish are not evil. In fact, their aggression is usually very important for their survival in the wild.
Aggression does vary between individuals to some extent, and fish can become more or less aggressive as they mature and age. Let’s take a quick look at why fish show aggressive behavior.
Predation
Big fish eat little fish, it’s just a fact of life. Sure, many larger freshwater fish species are vegetarian, but most large fish will eat smaller fish if given the chance. Fish with larger mouths can eat larger prey, so warning bells should go off any time you see a fish with a really big mouth.
Territoriality
Territoriality is probably the least understood form of aggression amongst hobbyists. What seems like a mean attitude has some important benefits in nature. A territory is a space defended by an animal for a specific reason. It could be a good shelter from predators, a food source, or a place to attract a mate.
Often the only way to keep control of a territory is to chase off competitors, and if necessary, to fight. Space is limited in an aquarium and the competitor might not be able to move away far enough to avoid conflict.
Dominance
Some schooling fish develop a clear pecking order, and the dominant individuals aren’t afraid to use violence to enforce their rule.
This kind of aggression can result in some individuals getting picked on or attacked. If they don’t have a place to hide or enough structure in the tank to break the line of sight, the result can be tragic.
Breeding
Some fish like Cichlids become especially aggressive when they are ready to breed. These fish may be relatively peaceful at other times but become absolute killers after pairing up.
They might have the right to defend their eggs or fry but, unfortunately, other fish in the tank don’t really have the option to get far enough out of their way.
Self-defense
Lastly, some fish can hurt each other or their owners out of self-defense.
A freshwater stingray, for example, is not really an aggressive animal at all. If they really feel threatened, however, they can be really dangerous since they have a sharp venomous spine on their tail.
Tank Setup
Keeping large, aggressive fish can be a big commitment in terms of time, space, and money. Many of the aggressive South American cichlids can be kept in tanks of under 100 gallons, but some of the other species in this list require very large tanks.
Tank Size
The fish in this list are all large species that need large tanks. Most of the time these species are sold as juveniles, and they might just be a couple of inches long in the store. Juvenile fish can be kept in pretty small tanks, but you need to be ready for when they grow.
Make sure you have the space, and the budget to provide the tank size needed when your fish begins to grow- and they can grow fast! Large fish tanks don’t only take up a lot of space, but they are heavy too. The basement or ground floor may be the only safe place to set up a really big aquarium.
Most fish can jump higher than you might think, so a solid hood/lid is essential.
Substrate & Decorations
Large fish can move objects around in your tank pretty easily. Cichlids for example are notorious for rearranging the decorations in their tank.
Keep your hardscape simple and provide the fish with some hiding places. Do not stack heavy rocks that could collapse and injure your fish or damage the aquarium.
Sand is a great substrate because it is pretty easy to vacuum fish waste off the bottom. Many keepers prefer a bare bottom tank because these are even easier to maintain.
Filtration and Equipment
Large aggressive fish tend to produce a lot of waste, and this means serious filtration is necessary.
Large external filters are best because they provide superior filtration and are safe from attacks from your fish. Options include large canister filters, sump systems, or filters designed for ponds.
Your heater and other equipment should also be housed externally to be on the safe side. Alternatively, your heater can be protected with a heater guard. Titanium heaters are also recommended if you place them in the tank.
Lastly, consider running a few air stones in the aquarium to keep the water well oxygenated.
Caring For Your Pet
Now that you know more about setting up a tank for aggressive species, let’s take a look at how to care for them.
Maintenance
Tank maintenance for a large aquarium is the same procedure as for a smaller tank, just on a much bigger scale. You’ll need to keep an eye on your water parameters with your test kit and perform regular partial water changes.
As a general rule, aim for the following parameters:
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: <20 ppm
Careful planning is necessary before setting up a very large aquarium because you’ll need to use a python system or siphon water directly into a drain, rather than a bucket. Automatic drip systems are a great way to provide a constant inflow of fresh water into your tank. If you have a lawn, the overflow is amazing for irrigation.
A magnetic algae scraper is very handy for keeping your glass clean without having to reach into the aquarium. This is great for fish that get a little over-excited when they think it’s mealtime.
Feeding
Carnivorous fish require a high-quality, high-protein diet. Do not feed your fish any red meats or chicken as these are not part of their natural diet and can be really unhealthy.
The best staple foods are pellets designed for large carnivorous fish. These should be supplemented with frozen food like shrimp, fish fillets, and shellfish. Live invertebrates like crickets, earthworms, and mealworms are a great natural food source too.
Avoid feeding your predator fish live feeder fish. It may be exciting to watch them hunt, but feeder fish can introduce parasites and diseases into your aquarium.
Take care when feeding species with sharp teeth or spines as accidents can happen when the fish are excited.
Choosing Tank Mates
Aggressive fish are not ideal for community tanks. Some of the most aggressive species will need to be kept in a species-only setup, often on their own.
Many of the semi-aggressive species can be kept with appropriate tank mates, however. Other large fish can get along fine with predatory, but otherwise peaceful species like arowanas and freshwater stingrays. This kind of community setup needs a massive aquarium of course.
The trick is to not keep any fish that are small enough to be eaten. Aggression and fighting are always a possibility, however, so always have a backup plan in case one of your fish needs to be moved.
Where To Buy
You may be surprised to find many of these species available at your local fish store from time to time. Don’t be afraid to chat with them about special orders if you can’t find what you’re looking for. For rarer species, the internet is a great place to look.
FAQs
What are some semi-aggressive types?
Many of the common aquarium fish are semi-aggressive. Here are some examples that you’ve probably heard of:
Predatory fish are species that feed on other animals that they hunt and kill. When it comes to freshwater fish, the prey can include invertebrates, frogs, and other fish.
Why is my fish suddenly aggressive?
Aggression levels can change in your fish as they get older. Many fish species do not become aggressive until they are sexually mature. Breeding time is often a trigger for aggression.
What’s the deadliest type?
The deadliest freshwater fish is probably the bull shark. They are more common in saltwater and brackish water, but they are known to travel far upstream into pure freshwater. These aggressive animals have been involved in a huge number of fatal attacks on humans.
What types will attack humans?
Attacks by freshwater fish on humans are very rare. The following are some of the most aggressive freshwater fish: Bull shark Red-bellied piranha Goonch Catfish Goliath tigerfish
Final Thoughts
There are far more exciting fish out there than goldfish. If you’ve always wanted to keep a large, mean fish, go for it! Just remember to plan ahead, and factor in the cost and commitments first.
Do you keep aggressive fish? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!
๐ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Lyretail Anthias need to eat multiple times per day. Miss feedings and they waste away. They are schooling fish that require groups, and the feeding schedule eliminates most hobbyists.
Anthias eat three or more times daily. If you work long hours, these are not your fish.
Anthias eat three or more times daily. If you work long hours, these are not your fish.
The Lyretail Anthias Care to A Complete Guide is one of the most popular saltwater fish for a reason, but popularity does not mean easy. This fish has specific requirements that reef store employees rarely explain. After 25 years of reef keeping, I know what separates a healthy specimen from a slow decline.
Saltwater fish do not forgive mistakes the way freshwater fish do.
Saltwater fish require stable parameters, quality food, and a mature tank. The startup cost and ongoing maintenance are significantly higher than freshwater.
In saltwater, the tank runs on stability. Every shortcut you take shows up weeks later as a problem.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Lyretail Anthias Care. A
The most common mistake I see with lyretail anthias care. As is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Lyretail Anthias Care. As look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, lyretail anthias care. As are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.
The Reality of Keeping Lyretail Anthias Care to A Complete Guide
A mature tank is mandatory. Most saltwater fish need a tank that has been running and stable for at least 3 to 6 months. New tanks have unstable parameters that stress saltwater fish far more than freshwater species.
Diet is not just flake food. Many saltwater fish need frozen mysis, brine shrimp, or specialty foods to thrive. A pellet-only diet leads to malnutrition, faded colors, and immune suppression. Variety is not optional.
Quarantine is essential. Marine ich and velvet are common in newly purchased saltwater fish. A proper quarantine tank before adding fish to your display tank prevents devastating disease outbreaks.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Skipping quarantine and adding a new saltwater fish directly to the display tank. One infected fish introduces marine ich to your entire system. Treatment in a reef tank is nearly impossible because copper kills corals and invertebrates.
Expert Take
Quarantine every new fish for 4 to 6 weeks before adding it to your display. I have never met a serious reefer who regretted quarantining. I have met dozens who regretted skipping it.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Lyretail Anthias hard to keep?
Lyretail Anthias are moderate in difficulty. They are one of the hardiest anthias species and a good starting point if you want to keep anthias. The main challenge is their need for frequent feeding, ideally three or more times per day, due to their high metabolism.
How many Lyretail Anthias should you keep together?
Keep Lyretail Anthias in groups of at least 5 to 7, with only one male per group. In the wild they form large harems, and small groups reduce stress. If a male is lost, the dominant female will change sex to replace him.
What size tank do Lyretail Anthias need?
A minimum of 75 gallons is recommended for a small group of Lyretail Anthias, though 125 gallons or more is ideal. They are active swimmers that need open water column space above the rockwork to feel comfortable.
Do Lyretail Anthias change gender?
Yes, Lyretail Anthias are protogynous hermaphrodites, meaning all individuals start as female. The dominant female in a group will transform into a male if the existing male dies or is removed. This process takes a few weeks.
What do Lyretail Anthias eat?
Lyretail Anthias eat meaty foods like mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, and finely chopped seafood. They need to be fed multiple times per day due to their fast metabolism. An automatic feeder can help maintain a consistent feeding schedule.
The lyretail anthias goes by many names but is pretty easy to identify.
Contrary to popular belief, these fish are not true anthias species belonging to the Anthias genus. Instead, they belong to the Pseudanthias genus. As a fish species of Pseudanthias, these medium-sized fish have very bright colors that bring great contrast to the aquarium setting.
Lyretail anthias are native to the Indo-West Pacific Ocean. They is found throughout the Red Sea as well as off the coasts of Japan, Australia, and South Africa. There, these fish form huge harems in clear tropical waters consisting of one male and up to 10 females1. They depend on coral reefs for protection and food, mainly zooplankton.
Though these peaceful fish is found throughout many ecosystems, there is little physical difference between populations.
Hermaphroditism And Sexual Dimorphism
Lyretail anthias demonstrate protogynous hermaphroditism, much like clownfish. This is the evolutionary ability for the fish to change from female to male depending on internal and external environmental factors.
Protogynous hermaphroditism is to increase reproduction rates and is especially successful in harem communities. Lyretails like to stay in large aggregations of about 10 females for every one male. When this male leaves or dies, a female will undergo the transition to male to fill this space and to optimize reproduction rates.
On top of this, lyretails display sexual dimorphism. Simply put, this is when male and female individuals of the same species differ in appearance. For the lyretail anthias, this difference is pretty huge.
Male lyretail anthias grow considerably larger than females, maxing out at about 6 inches while females stay under 3 inches. The bigger difference is in color.
Female lyretail anthias are sherbet-colored with a yellowy-pink body and bright yellow underbelly; sometimes these fish may be more yellow than pink. The eyes have hints of purple which are further accented by the purple streak that runs along their cheeks.
Male lyretail anthias are much more ornate. These fish are dark purplish-red with contrasting red fins; like females, they have a bright red streak that runs along their cheeks. They also have an identifiable elongated dorsal spine and some extension to the rest of their fins.
In the case of a missing male, females have the ability to transition into a male in under a month. If a female harem has been established without a male, the most dominant female will make the transition in about 170-280 days.
Lyretail Anthias Tank Requirements
Though beautiful fish, lyretails aren’t the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium. This is largely due to their spatial and dietary needs. Still, the lyretail anthias is to be one of the easiest fake anthias to keep.
Lyretails live above the reef and need open swimming space. In the tank setting, hobbyists also need additional space to comfortably keep large numbers of these peaceful fish together. Because of this, they need at least a 125 gallon aquarium.
Though these fish will look their best against a natural backdrop of coral, this isn’t always necessary. One of the important factors to remember when keeping these fish is that they are active zooplankton feeders, constantly searching for floating foods.
A reef aquarium setting will naturally help to maintain these populations of microorganisms so that they don’t need to be manually supplemented as often.
Are They Hardy?
Though lyretails aren’t necessarily sensitive to water parameters, they will do best when conditions are maintained and stable. These fish will show their brightest colors with minimal nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank setting.
Lyretail anthias are hardy, though they should only be kept in matured and established systems.
Temperament
Lyretail anthias are active fish. They will stay at the top of or in front of the live rock, swimming loosely in their harem (video source).
In general, these fish keep to themselves if conditions are met. Male lyretail anthias can become territorial at times, though they won’t inflict injury on another fish.
It is also common to see females picking at each other, especially if there is no male present in the tank. At that point, the biggest and brightest females may work out which one will assume the position of male in the group.
Are They Aggressive?
That being said, the lyretail anthias is regarded as one of the more aggressive species within the Pseudanthias genus. They are slightly sensitive to imperfections in saltwater tank conditions and parameters, which can affect their individual behaviors.
As mentioned before, lyretails are constantly searching for food. If food supplies run low, then these fish have been known to become pretty aggressive towards other fish who might pose as competition. This is especially true for smaller and slower-moving species.
In the same ways, lyretails can become aggressive if space is limited. Though the males are mostly regarded as being territorial, it’s possible that the females will chase after other fish if they feel they don’t have enough space.
Are They Reef-Safe?
Yes – Lyretail anthias are one of the best fish to have in a reef tank setting. These fish are close to being completely reef-safe and won’t bother munching on any sessile invertebrates within the tank display.
Lyretails are only concerned with food that is free-floating in the water column and won’t pick at the rocks like other foragers. These fish is safely kept with soft corals, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and small polyp stony (SPS) corals without any worry.
Though there is no risk with keeping lyretail anthias in a reef setup, it’s always possible for a fish to start picking at coral for no reason.
Tankmates
Not only are lyretail anthias reef-safe, but they’re also a great community fish all around. As mentioned before, space and dietary strains can cause individual fish to become more aggressive, but they is kept with an assortment of fish.
To help prevent issues with aggression, it’s recommended to allow lyretails their own space within the aquarium. For example, these fish will mainly stay at the top of or in front of the rockwork. Other smaller fish that like to stay in the same areas for extended periods of time should be avoided.
For the most part, though, there is enough space for everyone to get along as long as the tank size is right.
How Many Can Be Kept Together?
It’s agreed that lyretail anthias will do well in groups of at least 4 or more in the home aquarium. It is preferred to keep more, though this pushes the tank size needed.
Lyretail anthias are social fish that like to be in small groups. In the wild, they is seen in larger groups with one male surrounded by several females. In the aquarium, it isn’t too necessary to keep so many of them together.
Most hobbyists pick up a group of all-female lyretail anthias and allow them to pick a male among themselves; it is best to either pick all small juvenile females or a group of females where one is noticeably larger. Immediately adding a male to the tank can cause rejection and even more aggression between individuals.
Though these fish are a shoaling species, they actually do just fine on their own in the aquarium. Many reefers have had luck keeping only one lyretail anthias by itself in a full reef tank setting. There have been no noticeable differences in behavior and the fish remains present and active.
Most times, this fish will transition to a male lyretail anthias when alone.
Can They Be Kept With Other Anthias Species?
Depending on tank size, you will be able to keep multiple species of anthias fish together. The trick to getting these combinations to work is by choosing species that aren’t too similar in appearance or behavior. Similar to other species, lyretails will become aggressive to similar-looking fish that aren’t in their harem.
There are many different kinds of anthias in the aquarium, both true ones and fake ones. The problem is that one is more beautiful than the next, making it difficult to pick and choose which one you want to have in your aquarium.
Instead, pick species that can tell each other apart, like:
Still, experienced keepers have seen aggression between males of each species, though there is no cause for concern. If keeping multiple species of anthias together, the tank should be much larger than the minimum tank size recommended of 125 gallons.
Diet
The hardest part of owning lyretail anthias will be keeping them fed. These are very active fish with high metabolisms, so they need to be fed regularly. This is also in addition to their need for small planktonic foods, similar to their natural diet in the wild.
Luckily, most hobbyists have had success getting their lyretails to accept a wide variety of aquarium foods. For best coloration, you’ll want to provide a varied diet.
Lyretail anthias are largely carnivores. This means that they need a good assortment of meaty foods to meet their dietary demands. This should include a selection of live, frozen, and freeze-dried options, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and black worms.
If you’re struggling with getting your fish to eat larger foods, then you should try feeding copepods or a specialized food, like Reef Frenzy by Larry’s Reef Services (LRS).
Not all lyretails will readily accept flake or pellet food at first, and might not ever accept anything other than their preferred foods. However, if you’re lucky enough that your lyretail anthias do accept other foods, then high-quality flake foods is the staple of the diet.
To ensure that your fish are always happy and healthy, it’s recommended to provide feedings 2-3 times a day. They are known for eating throughout the day. They will do better in a reef aquarium with lots of fauna in the tank such as copepods and zooplankton. You can supplement plankton with foods like Benereef. This food contains planktivore content that are loved by Lyretail Anthias.
Common Diseases
Though lyretails are hardy fish, they can succumb to common aquarium illnesses rather quickly. For whatever reason, most anthias available in store are affected by one ailment or another. Because of this, it’s definitely recommended to provide plenty of time for quarantine before adding them to the main display.
One of the most common marine diseases your lyretail anthias fish are likely to get is a type of Uronema, Uronema marinum. This is a free-living ciliate parasite that uses the host for living, feeding, and reproducing.
Though most life stages are fulfilled while actively infecting the fish, the parasite can enter the water column and affect other organisms. It can survive on bacteria and detritus within the system indefinitely, meaning that it will survive through fallow periods.
Uronema is very quick to kill and should not be ignored. Unfortunately, its symptoms is difficult to diagnose which can take up valuable treatment time. The main symptoms are red bumps and abrasions that eventually grow into large, open sores. Discoloration, flashing, loss of appetite, and heavy breathing also follow.
Unfortunately, many hobbyists opt to euthanize their fish once this parasite has displayed itself in the home aquarium;, the fish is too far gone and it’s better to sacrifice one to save the whole. However, if you manage to catch it early enough and have the proper quarantine setup and medications, then there is still some hope.
The best course of treatment is a 5 minutes freshwater dip and a dose of metronidazole every 48 hours for 10-14 days. For best results, it’s also recommended to feed medicated food with a binder like Seachem Focus and Seachem MetroPlex.
Again, introducing this parasite into the main display will cause it to live in the aquarium indefinitely. The best way to prevent it from devastating your tank is by quarantining.
Is the Lyretail Anthias Care. A Right for You?
Before you add a lyretail anthias care. A to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.
This species is a good fit if:
You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Lyretail Anthias Care. As need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the lyretail anthias care. A is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.
How the Lyretail Anthias Care. A Compares to Similar Species
Want a hardy first saltwater fish? Get clownfish. Want more personality? Get a six-line wrasse. Want a showstopper? This fish is worth the effort if your tank is ready.
Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the lyretail anthias care. A stacks up against some common alternatives.
The lyretail anthias care. A occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the lyretail anthias care. A or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the lyretail anthias care. A needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.
Final Thoughts
The lyretail anthias is a beautiful saltwater fish meant for the reef aquarium. In the wild, these fish form harems and feed on planktonic organisms within the water column. This diet can prove to be difficult for experienced keepers, though lyretails adapt well to aquarium foods and conditions.
One of the major diseases to watch out for concerning these saltwater fish is Uronema, though they are very hardy after being acclimated.
Rasboras are one of those fish families I keep coming back to after 25 years in this hobby. They’re diverse, peaceful, and ideally suited to the planted nano tanks that have become so popular. The harlequin rasbora is the most iconic. a lot of hobbyists’ first schooling fish. but the family includes chili rasboras, lambchop rasboras, galaxy rasboras (celestial pearl danios), and more, each bringing something distinct to a planted setup. One thing I always mention to people getting started with rasboras: most prefer softer, slightly acidic water. Many will adapt to neutral conditions, but they genuinely thrive when the parameters reflect their natural blackwater habitat. This guide covers 11 of the best species worth considering.
What Are Rasboras?
Rasboras are freshwater fish from the Cyprinidae family. That family might sound familiar because it is the same group that includes other well-known aquarium fish like barbs, goldfish, and koi.
Many of the tiny species were originally placed in the Rasbora genus, butscientists have since split them up into a few different groups. Most of the species in the aquarium trade are from South and Southeast Asia where they live in streams, ponds, and lakes.
Rasboras are some of the smallest fish species known, and most aquarium species grow to just an inch or two in length. These fish are awesome in nano aquariums, and their peaceful temperaments and great colors have made them firm favorites among fishkeepers all over the world!
11 Best Types Of Rasboras For Aquariums
Now that you know a little bit more about rasboras, it’s time to meet 11 great species that you can keep! Below is a video from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you enjoy our content, please make sure to subscribe!
I’ve included the most important information to help you choose the best species for your tank. Take note of the following stats for each species:
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (20 gallons recommended)
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Southeast Asia
Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
pH: 5.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The Harlequin rasbora is an amazing schooling fish for community fish tanks. These fish have awesome black triangular markings on their sides, which contrasts with their golden orange color.
Harlequin rasboras are one of the most popular aquarium species sold today because they are so peaceful and easy to care for. Keep a group of 8 or more to see the natural schooling behavior of these neat little fish.
Diet: Omnivorous, feed micro pellets, and live/frozen food
Origin: Myanmar
Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
pH: 7.5-8
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The dwarf emerald rasbora (video source) is an awesome nano fish for cool water aquariums. They look very similar to galaxy rasboras/ celestial pearl danios and are actually pretty closely related. These tiny fish are really peaceful and don’t get much over an inch in size.
They are can be shy by nature but will be most comfortable and active in a well-planted aquarium. A group of 6 or more dwarf emerald rasboras would be great in a species-only nano tank, but they can also be kept with other peaceful fish of a similar size.
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Borneo
Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
pH: 4-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
Chili rasboras (video source) are one of the smallest fish species in the fishkeeping hobby and are also known as the mosquito rasbora. For such a small species, these little guys are really adaptable to different conditions, but they do need excellent water quality to thrive.
Chili rasbora fish do best when kept on their own but they can be kept with other small species that won’t out-compete them for food.
The blue variety of the axelrodi rasbora (video source) is true schooling fish that should be kept in large groups of 20 or more to really shine.
These tiny fish don’t always accept prepared foods, so be sure to keep a supply of live or frozen foods like daphnia or grindal worms to keep them well-fed.
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Southeast Asia
Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
pH: 4-6.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The spotted, or dwarf rasbora (video source) is another tiny species that is just perfect for a planted nano tank. This colorful fish has a bright red gill cover and three black spots on its orange body.
The ideal tank mates for dwarf rasboras are shrimp, snails, and other peaceful nano fish. Keep at least ten of these social schooling fish to keep them confident and active.
6. Merah
Scientific Name: Boraras merah
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 0.75 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Borneo
Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
pH: 4-6.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The merah rasbora (video source) is another diminutive species for all the nano fish lovers out there! They are also known as the phoenix rasbora.
This species is very similar to the chili rasbora but is generally less colorful. Like other rasboras, these fish do best in groups because they prefer to school together.
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Southeast Asia
Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
pH: 5.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The black harlequin rasbora is a dark variant of the standard harlequin rasbora. This popular species has been a favorite amongst aquarists for over a century, and it’s easy to see why!
Black harlequin rasboras have the same care needs as the regular species.
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
pH: 6-7
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The exclamation point rasbora (video source) is another incredible nano fish from the Boraras genus. If the word Boraras sounds strangely familiar, that’s because this name is an anagram of the word rasbora.
The exclamation point is one of the smaller rasbora species that you would come across at just half an inch or so in length. It gets its name from the combination of a line and a dot on the fish’s body, which make a perfect exclamation point!
10. Emerald Eye
Scientific Name: Brevibora dorsiocellata
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Thailand, Sumatra, Malaysia,
Temperature: 68-77ยฐF
pH: 5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The emerald eye rasbora is a great-looking schooling fish. These fish have beautiful iridescent green markings from their eyes right down to their tails.
These small rasboras are very peaceful and stay small, making them an ideal choice for a soft water community setup.
11. Scissortail
Scissortail Rasbora in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-552942″/>
Scientific Name: Rasbora trilineata
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Diet: Carnivorous, provide micropellets/flakes, live and frozen food
Origin: Southeast Asia
Temperature: 73-77ยฐF
pH: 6.5-7.5
Difficulty to breed: Moderate
Planted tank suitability: Yes
The scissortail rasbora grows to a size of 6 inches, making it a giant of the rasbora world! Scissortail rasboras get their name from the interesting way they twitch their caudal fin.
Like the other rasboras, these schooling fish do best in groups. Scissortail rasboras are a large and active species, so naturally, they need a fairly large tank to have enough room.
Other Species
Just in case 11 species wasn’t enough, here are a few more bonus rasboras that you can look out for!
Rasboras make great nano fish for small aquariums. Even though they may be tiny, they tend to be very active fish, so a minimum tank size of about 10 gallons is recommended for most of the smaller species.
Substrate & Decor
Sand or gravel makes a fine substrate for most rasboras, although a complete aqua soil is often a better choice for planted tanks because rasboras do best in aquariums with abundant aquatic plant growth.
Adding some driftwood and plenty of live plants will help these fish feel more at home in the aquarium. Plants like Java ferns, cryptocorynes, and amazon swords are great choices because they are easy to grow and don’t need powerful lighting.
Specialized lighting is not necessary for your rasbora aquarium. While bright light is great for a planted tank, it’s not necessarily the best choice for these fish.
Most rasboras prefer fairly dim lighting in the aquarium. Growing some red root floaters or other species of floating plants is a good idea because it helps maintain the dim light these fish prefer.
Rasboras are small fish that prefer still or slow-flowing water. A simple sponge filter will provide adequate filtration for most species.
For a more compact and aesthetic option, a hang-on back or internal power filter can also be used. Just be sure to set up a prefilter sponge over the intake to prevent any tiny fish from getting sucked in.
Whichever filter you prefer, make sure it is capable of excellent mechanical and biological filtration, especially if you are keeping your rasboras in a nano aquarium.
Care
Now that you know how to set up a great home for your fish, it’s time to learn how to keep them healthy. Rasboras are pretty easy to care for if you can maintain good water quality and feed them a quality diet. Choosing the right tankmates is also very important since these fish are so small.
Read on to learn about all of these things and more!
Aquarium maintenance
Most rasboras require great water quality, and that’s why regular aquarium maintenance is so important. This might not be everyone’s idea of a good time, but it’s really not such a bad deal.
Get into the habit of performing a partial water change every week, especially if you keep a nano aquarium. You can use your test kit to monitor the nitrate levels- that way you’ll know if you’re changing enough water.
Use a gravel vacuum to suck out any solid waste particles from the substrate and give your aquarium glass a good clean with your algae scraper. Once you’re done, you can sit back and admire a beautiful tank with happy rasboras for the rest of the week!
Behavior & Feeding
Most species of rasboras available in the aquarium trade are considered micro predators. In their natural freshwater habitats, they feed on tiny crustaceans and other invertebrates.
In the home aquarium, these fish prefer to feed on frozen and live foods like brine shrimp and daphnia. Most species will feed on dried foods like fish flakes and tropical granules, however. A good food to try is Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano formula.
Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.
Breeding rasboras is not very difficult. In fact, healthy adult fish will breed freely in many home aquariums. These fish produce eggs on a regular basis, so don’t be too surprised if you see some tiny fry in your tank!
Rasboras aren’t that big on eating eggs, but there are no guarantees that the eggs will be left to hatch. Fortunately, the eggs hatch after just a day or so, and the fry begin swimming 2 or 3 days after that. They will have the best chance of survival if your tank is heavily planted, and contains only rasboras.
Setting up a small breeding tank will give you a much higher success rate. A small tank with a sponge filter, some floating plants, and some broadleaved plants is ideal for this purpose. Place a conditioned pair into the tank and, with some luck, the female will lay some eggs on the underside of a leaf.
After the pair have finished breeding, they should be moved back to their regular display tank. The fry grow very fast but must be fed on tiny food like infusoria until they are able to progress to baby brine shrimp.
Tankmates
Rasboras make great fish for community tanks because they are so peaceful. Most rasbora species will get along perfectly with similarly sized community nano fish, as long as they all enjoy the same water parameters.
Some of the different rasbora species are very common in the aquarium trade. Your local fish store probably sells a few popular species, and it’s always worth asking if they can track down something they don’t have in stock.
These days the greatest selection of species can be found online. Quality retailers like Flipaquatics.com are worth checking out because they stock a wide range of great nano fish.
FAQs
Will different they school together?
Rasboras are peaceful, social fish that will enjoy schooling with other, similar-sized species. It is best to keep at least 6 individuals of each species in your aquarium, even though your different rasboras will probably school together.
Is a rasbora a tetra?
Rasboras and tetras are both small schooling fish, but they are not actually related. Most tetras come from South America, while rasboras come from South and Southeast Asia.
What type of fish is a rasbora?
Rasboras are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. They are mostly very small schooling fish that feed on tiny organisms.
What is the smallest?
The exclamation point rasbora (Boraras urophthalmoides) is the smallest rasbora species you are likely to find in the aquarium hobby. There is an even smaller species, however. The closely related Boraras micros maxes out at just half an inch long!
Can different types live together?
You can keep different species of rasboras in the same tank. Make sure that the different rasboras enjoy the same water parameters like pH and temperature, however.
The different Boraras species are closely related and might hybridize together. Avoid keeping them in the same tank, especially if you plan on breeding your fish.
Final Thoughts
Rasboras are probably the best nano schooling fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish are small, peaceful, colorful, and pretty easy to care for. If you’re looking for a fish to put into a planted nano tank, look no further!
Which is your favorite rasbora species? Let me know in the comments below!
๐ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
The Coral Beauty is the dwarf angel most likely to behave in a reef tank. Most likely is not the same as guaranteed.
Coral beauties are the least risky dwarf angel for reef tanks. Least risky is not risk-free.
Coral beauties are the least risky dwarf angel for reef tanks. Least risky is not risk-free.
What It Is Actually Like Growing Coral Beauty Angel Care (A Complete Guide)
Coral growth is measured in weeks and months, not days. You will stare at your frag daily and see nothing. Then one morning, you notice new polyp extension or a visible encrustation line. That moment is deeply satisfying.
Corals open and close based on lighting and flow. Learning to read your coral’s polyp extension tells you more about tank conditions than any parameter test.
Nuisance algae will grow on and around your coral. Keeping it clean without damaging the tissue takes a gentle hand and a turkey baster. This is a regular maintenance task.
The color payoff is real. A coral that looked brown in the store develops vivid greens, purples, or oranges under proper lighting over weeks. That transformation is what makes reef keeping addictive.
The Coral Beauty Angel Care (A Complete Guide) is a go-to recommendation for newer reefers, but it is not bulletproof. Lighting, flow, and placement mistakes kill more frags than disease ever will. After maintaining reef tanks for over two decades, I know exactly where people go wrong with this coral.
More coral frags die from too much light than too little. That surprises most beginners.
Corals grow slowly and demand stable conditions for months and years. This is a long-term commitment to water chemistry, lighting schedules, and consistent maintenance.
Coral keeping is gardening with saltwater. The patience required is identical.
If you’re looking for a comprehensive guide on how to care for your coral beauty angel, look no further! In this post, we’ll go over everything you need to know in order to keep your coral beauty happy and healthy. From food to tank size, we’ve got you covered. So read on and get started!
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Coral Beauty Angel Care (A)
Want easy, fast-growing coral? Start with green star polyps or zoanthids. Want a challenge? Get SPS and invest in dosing equipment.
Many care guides make the coral beauty angel care (a) sound easier than it really is. They’ll list basic parameters and call it a day. In my experience running reef systems, stability matters far more than hitting a perfect number. Flow and placement get glossed over constantly. I’ve seen perfectly healthy coral beauty angel care (a) colonies stress and close up simply because they were in the wrong spot. Getting flow right is half the battle. The other mistake is overfeeding or over-supplementing. More is not better with corals. Clean water and patience will outperform any additive regimen.
The Reality of Keeping Coral Beauty Angel Care (A Complete Guide)
Lighting is the most common source of coral death. New reefers blast their corals with too much PAR on day one. Corals need to acclimate to your lighting over weeks. Starting at 50% intensity and slowly ramping up prevents bleaching and tissue recession.
Flow matters as much as light. Dead spots collect detritus on coral tissue and cause tissue necrosis. Too much direct flow strips flesh from the skeleton. Finding the right flow pattern takes observation and adjustment.
Stability beats perfection. A reef tank with slightly elevated nitrates that stays consistent will grow coral better than a tank with perfect numbers that swings every few days. Corals adapt to stable conditions. They die from instability.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Placing a new coral frag in the highest-light spot of the tank immediately. Corals from a store or vendor have been in shipping bags for hours. They need low light and gradual acclimation. Blasting them with full intensity causes bleaching within days.
Expert Take
Start your lights at 50% and increase by 10% every two weeks. More corals die from too much light too fast than from any disease I have encountered in 25 years of reef keeping.
Frequently Asked Questions
Are Coral Beauty Angelfish reef safe?
Coral Beauty Angelfish are reef safe with caution. Most individuals leave corals alone, but some may nip at LPS coral polyps and clam mantles. The risk increases if they are underfed. Keeping them well-fed with algae-based foods reduces the chance of coral nipping.
How big do Coral Beauty Angelfish get?
Coral Beauty Angelfish reach about 4 inches in length in a home aquarium. They are one of the smaller dwarf angelfish species, which makes them suitable for tanks as small as 70 gallons. Their compact size is one reason they remain so popular.
Can you keep two Coral Beauty Angelfish together?
Keeping two Coral Beauty Angelfish in the same tank is not recommended unless the tank is very large, over 125 gallons, with plenty of rockwork. They are territorial toward their own species and will fight. A single specimen is the safest approach.
What do Coral Beauty Angelfish eat?
Coral Beauty Angelfish are omnivores that graze on algae and small invertebrates. In captivity, offer a varied diet of spirulina flakes, mysis shrimp, and high-quality angelfish preparations with sponge matter. Frequent small feedings throughout the day mimic their natural grazing behavior.
How long do Coral Beauty Angelfish live?
With proper care, Coral Beauty Angelfish can live 10 to 15 years in captivity. Stable water parameters, a varied diet rich in marine algae, and a low-stress environment are the keys to long-term success with this species.
Species Overview
Scientific Name
Centropyge bispinosa
Common Names
Coral beauty angelfish, two spined angelfish, dusky angelfish
Family
Pomacanthidae
Origin
Indo-Pacific
Diet
Omnivore
Colors
Purple, blue, orange, yellow, red
Care Level
Easy
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Minimum Tank Size
55 gallons
Max Size
6 inches
Temperature Range
76. 82 degrees F
pH Range
8.0. 8.4
Salinity
1.025 or 35 PPT
Reef Safe
Yes
Available As Tank Breed?
Rare
Classification
Order
Perciformes
Family
Pomacanthidae
Genus
Centropyge
Species
C. Bispinosa (Gunther, 1860)
Origins And Habitat
The Coral beauty angelfish, sometimes called two spined angelfish, are a longtime favorite in the aquarium hobby due to their small size and bright colors. For many years, these peaceful fish were believed to be a nano species that could fit into tanks under 40 gallons. Now, we have a better understanding of their true needs and requirements.
These fish are scientifically known as Centropyge bispinosa and are a type of dwarf angelfish from the Pomacanthidae family. They originate from the shallow reefs of the Indo-Pacific, like many other colorful aquarium fish available in the trade. There, they live in sheltered coral reef ecosystems in shallow lagoons and slopes.
In the wild, coral beauty angelfish are not the most abundant or bold species of fish on the reef, and this will translate to the aquarium setting. Instead, they is found grazing on algae in between the corals and rocks alone or in harems of 3-7 individuals.
Identification
Coral beauties are easy to identify and it’s clear how they earned their name.
As a species of dwarf angelfish, the coral beauty grows to about 4-6 inches. They are velvety purple with streaks of yellow and orange embers across their sides. Their bellies have the most vibrant oranges and yellows.
In especially vibrantly-colored fish, light blue margins is seen along the fins and accenting some facial features.
How Long Do These Beauties Live?
Most species of marine fish can live a long time. The coral beauty is no different.
On average, you can expect your coral beauty to live more than 5 years. In ideal conditions, these saltwater fish have been known to live up to 15 years.
As we’ll talk about later though, the coral beauty angelfish can quickly succumb to some common aquarium diseases.
Tank Requirements
As mentioned before, care requirements for the coral beauty angel have gone overlooked for a very long time. Because of their dwarf size, they were often squished into nano reef tanks that were way too small with incompatible tank mates. Even though the coral beauty angelfish might seem tiny, they actually need a lot of open swimming space.
Coral beauty angelfish centropyge need at least a 55-gallon tank. Experienced keepers will say that a 70 gallon is the bare minimum tank size, but a standard 55 gallon will comfortably house one of these gorgeous fish as long as the rest of the stocking is light.
The coral beauty angelfish is shy and they will spend most of their time among the live rock picking at algae; they will also appreciate having several hiding places available throughout this intricate rockwork. However, they like to have free-swimming space as well and will establish loose territories.
Temperament
The coral beauty angelfish is a species that comes some territorial aggression.
Though these fish don’t have overly bold personalities, they will set up some territories throughout the tank that they’ll defend. This is especially true if there are other dwarf angels and marine algae-grazers in the tank competing for the same resources.
Otherwise, they is seen peacefully swimming in and out of the rockwork, picking at algae and other microflora.
Are They Aggressive?
Just how aggressive is the coral beauty? It depends on the personality of the individual fish.
Coral beauties can greatly range in aggression. Experienced keepers have dwarf angels that are model citizens while others have difficulty from the start. They have surprisingly been known to intentionally chase and injure other fish, especially ones that threaten their territory or that are similar in appearance.
There is no way to predict how aggressive your coral beauty is, which is why having a larger tank size is better than having a smaller one. It may also help to add this dwarf angelfish towards the end of the stocking list.
Perfect Tank Mates
Aside from their semi-aggression, coral beauty and angelfish are a community species. They is put together with most species of colorful reef fish without too many problems.
Larger angelfish. Remember that these fish should not be kept with other dwarf angelfish unless kept in a large tank.
As a species of angelfish, there is a slight disposition for your coral beauty to snack on smaller sessile invertebrates, though most hobbyists have no problem keeping them in a full reef tank setup with a variety of species.
Can These Beauties Be Kept With Flame Angels?
For many years, coral beauty andflame angelfish (Centropyge loricula) went together as perfect tank mates. As time went on, hobbyists realized that these two fish aren’t exactly compatible.
As mentioned before, species of dwarf angelfish, like the coral beauty and flame angel, do not do well together. This is largely due to limited resources and territories in smaller reef aquariums. That being said, this iconic pairing is possible if tank conditions are met.
In order to keep a coral beauty together with a flame angel, the tank should be at least 125 gallons. At this size, there should be enough space for your fish to peacefully cohabitate, though you can still run into some problems.
To help diffuse aggression even more, it’s recommended to add the two fish together at the same time. This gives them the same opportunity to establish their own territories without being bullied by the other.
Can You Keep Multiple Beauties Together?
In short, no, you cannot keep multiple coral beauties together. However, hobbyists have had some success in especially large systems over 200 gallons.
Not only do coral beauty angelfish centropyge not naturally congregate in the wild, but you could also run into the same problems as with the flame angel. There simply isn’t enough space for multiple coral beauties to live together in most average reef tank setups. In the wild, coral beauty angelfish are rarely seen together. For the moments that they are together, they form small harems. Because this is their natural behavior, it doesn’t make too much sense to try this in the aquarium setting.
What Do Coral Beauty Angels Eat?
With such a beautiful fish, you definitely want to get your coral beauty looking the best that it can. Though some of this will depend on the lighting and other water parameters, a high-quality diet will definitely help bring out the best colors of your fish.
The Coral beauty angelfish is an omnivore, meaning they’ll largely accept most plant- and meat-based foods. Remember that these gorgeous fish spend a significant amount of their time picking algae and other microorganisms off the reef in the wild.
To best replicate this natural diet, live, freeze-dried, and frozen foods, like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, should regularly be offered. They will also readily accept algae flakes and pellets along with pieces of seaweed. Feedings of live food like blackworms and high quality frozen food like LRS or Rod’s Reef are ideal.
Coral beauty angelfish is opportunistic feeders and have been known to go after corals.
Are They Reef Safe?
Coral beauties are not considered fully reef safe.
These dwarf angelfish constantly graze the live rock looking for anything they can eat. Though this helps with algae problems, sometimes these fish get curious and take a bite out of a colony of soft corals. Coral beauty angelfish have been known to eat whole zoanthid colonies overnight and might even nip at large polyp stony (LPS) corals.
There is no way to know if your coral beauty will be reef safe in the long run. There are ways to deter nipping by making sure that feedings are regular and by meeting all dietary needs. It also helps to keep these hardy fish only when the tank has fully matured to ensure that there is a good population of algae available on the rocks.
Otherwise, a good majority of hobbyists have luck keeping these saltwater fish in a fully reef tank. Unfortunately, that’s not always the case.
Do They Eat Hair Algae?
Treating pest algae with saltwater aquarium fish or invertebrates is a common yet poor practice, especially if you don’t have the tank space. But is the coral beauty an efficient algae-grazer?
Yes, these saltwater fish are efficient algae-grazers but they is quite picky. Though your fish might always be picking at the live rock, it might avoid patches of less favorable pest algae, like hair algae. Because there is no guarantee that coral beauties will treat an algae problem and they need substantial space to flourish, they’re not recommended as a cure to a hair algae problem.
Instead, these beautiful fish can help prevent algae problems. As your fish is constantly picking at the rocks, it’s eating a variety of waste and debris that could eventually give way to algae. If you are looking for marine animals that eat hair algae, check out my algae eater post.
Breeding
Like many other aquarium fish, coral beauties have successfully been bred in the display tank setting over the last few years. Captive breeding has led to reduced prices for hobbyists as well as increased sustainability for natural habitats and overall healthier fish. The problem is that most saltwater fish need very large tanks for proper breeding conditions.
One of the most renowned breeders of the coral beauty angelfish is the Biota Palau Marine Life Nursery located in the middle of the Pacific Ocean. This process starts by collecting several pairs of wild-caught angel species and placing them into 100 gallon outdoor systems, close to their original area of collection. You can learn more about their mission and process in the video below by Biota.
These tanks imitate natural conditions and do not have filtration. Instead, the water is heavily aerated and regular water changes are performed throughout the week. Once the eggs hatch and the fry are successfully collected, the water is filled with different microorganisms, like phytoplankton, for food.
A balance is created between the demand of the coral beauty angelfish larvae diet and waste buildup. At this time, the fry are too small to have their water changed; they are nearly microscopic with flattened silver bodies and a bright blue line down their dorsal.
Over the next few months, they can start to eat larger live foods, like brine shrimp, and will develop their adult colors. Soon, they will be a deep royal blue with accents of iridescent orange and yellow and be ready for their permanent home.
Coral beauty angelfish from Biota are incredibly hardy and vibrant in color. Because they were raised in the aquarium setting, they readily accept most processed foods and are disease-free.
Can You Breed Them In The Home Aquarium?
As of yet, there is no major success in breeding these saltwater fish within the home aquarium setting. This is largely due to the space needed to accommodate the parents and the constant food that fry need.
The Biota Palau Marine Life Nursery is a large facility known for breeding coral beauty angelfish, gobies, and other popular aquarium species.
Common Diseases
One of the benefits of getting a captive-bred dwarf angel is that they are free of parasites. Most wild-caught fish need to be treated for internal and external parasites before adding them to the main display tank. Captive breeding mostly eliminates this threat, though they’re still susceptible to common marine fish diseases.
Though hardy, coral beauty angelfish are notorious for catching ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) and marine velvet ( Amyloodinium spp.). Unfortunately, angelfish is affected by disease pretty quickly so treatment should be started as soon as possible.
It should be noted that dwarf angelfish is negatively affected by copper-based medications, though most hobbyists have no problems with this fish. For fast and safe recovery, it is always recommended to move the fish to a more controlled quarantine tank.
Is the Coral Beauty Angel Care (A) Right for You?
Before you add a coral beauty angel care (a) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.
This species is a good fit if:
You have an established reef tank with stable parameters. New setups are not the place for corals.
You’re committed to regular water testing and maintenance. Reef tanks require more attention than freshwater.
Your lighting and flow match what this coral needs. Not all corals want the same intensity.
You understand that coral growth is slow. Patience is not optional in reefkeeping.
You have a plan for fragging or managing growth if the colony expands beyond its space.
You’re not adding it to a tank with known coral pests. Prevention is easier than treatment.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the coral beauty angel care (a) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.
How the Coral Beauty Angel Care (A) Compares to Similar Species
Want easy, fast-growing coral? Start with green star polyps or zoanthids. Want a challenge? Get SPS and invest in dosing equipment.
Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the coral beauty angel care (a) stacks up against some common alternatives.
The coral beauty angel care (a) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the coral beauty angel care (a) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the coral beauty angel care (a) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.
Final Thoughts
The coral beauty angelfish has been a popular aquarium fish for a very long time and rightfully so. These beautiful fish have great colors that can’t easily be found on other fish and have mostly docile temperaments. They are also sustainably captive bred which makes them relatively affordable and saves their natural environments.
However, these fish are still angelfish and caution is needed when attempting to keep them with corals and smaller invertebrates. If you have any questions about coral beauty angelfish care, leave a comment below. Thanks for reading!
Are you in the market for a new nano protein skimmer? Or maybe you’re just curious about what the best nano protein skimmers are on the market right now. In either case, you’ve come to the right place. Today, we’ll be taking a look at seven of the best nano protein skimmers currently available, based on 2023 reviews. So whether you’re looking for something affordable or high-end, we’ve got you covered. Let’s get started!
How I Selected These Nano Skimmers (My Criteria Selection)
Choosing from the large list of options these days, it can be overwhelming to determine which is the best nano protein skimmer for you. I’m here to help and have a fairly comprehensive selection criteria that is as follows:
Reliability
Brand name
Footprint
Reliability
Nano Protein skimmers should last a long time. For large skimmers, this comes down to the pump quality and the durability of the protein skimmer body and neck to take wear and tear over time. For nano protein skimmers, the main focus is on the pump. Because of where these skimmers go, there is less of a risk of damage since they aren’t going to move anywhere. You don’t have to worry about elbowing a protein skimmer neck while in your sump with a tiny protein skimmer. The pump needs to reliable and last the test of time.
Brand Name
I try to avoid any cheap made Chinese brand sellers. Sure, the prices are great and some of them are pretty decent. But most of those models that are decent are establish brand names now like Bubble Magus. I’m talking about the generic skimmers you find on marketplaces like Amazon.
I stick to major brand names to this like. Brands like Tunze, Aquamaxx, and CoralVue have been involved in the saltwater hobby for a long time and have constantly produced winning products. If I’m going to list a small brand or a up and comer, they better offer something unique that the major brands don’t have.
Footprint
These are called nano protein skimmers for a reason. They are supposed to be the smallest footprint possible so they can be installed internally while not being a major eyesore. Others are designed to be installed inside all-in-one systems and nano reef tanks. They need to have a slim profile to fit in these chambers. If they can’t fit in most systems, they don’t make the list!
The Nano Protein Skimmer Candidates
Nano protein skimmers are becoming more popular as more hobbyists try to keep smaller reef tanks. There are more models being released each year. However, the same name brands show up time and time again in this size. Below is a list of the nano skimmers I’ve reviewed.
Tunze has developed the perfect nano protein skimmer that has remained unchanged for many years. It is built with the same reliability in mind. These protein skimmers are known for lasting and performing reliability, similar to the Tunze auto top off unit and wavemakers. This protein skimmer will run for many years with few issues.
The Tunze 9001 is designed for nano tanks 37 gallons in size. It is designed to be “idiot proof”. You just install it in the corner of your tank or in an all in one chamber and forget about it (except when you need to empty out the skimmate chamber.
They can be finnicky with aquarium water levels, but it’s easy to adjust with their magnetic mounts. It has been used by many nano aquarium owners over the years to the point where it has become the go to for protein skimmers. This is the best nano protein skimmer you can buy on the list if it’s within your budget.
What a tiny protein skimmer that is DC powered? Look no further with the Innovation Marine BioSkim DC Skimmer. This DC powered skimmer is energy efficient and designed with all in one tanks in mind. With only a 4″ wide footprint, it can fit in virtually all all in one tanks. They are designed for saltwater aquariums up to 34 gallons.
It is the successor to Innovative’s ghost skimmer line. The Ghost wasn’t the great protein skimmer and Innovative have learned their lesson. This protein skimmer is a lot more functional than the Ghost. It produces a lot more foam the ghost with this new design.
It’s cheaper than the Tunze. It’s a great option if the Tunze is out of your budget. If this one is out of your budget, I got another cheaper option below.
The Aquatic Life Mini Skimmer offers a competent pump driven protein skimmer at a budget conscious price. Small enough to fit in most nano tanks and all in one aquariums
The Aquatic Life Mini Skimmer is a well priced nano skimmer. It not only is the cheapest skimmer on this list, but also one of the smallest. With a 3 and 1/4 inch footprint, it can fit in virtually any all in one chamber. It’s also small enough to install internally where it would be a big eyesore.
It’s size comes with a price. This is one of the lower bubble producing protein skimmers on this list, but still will still do a good job in a small tank. If you are on a budget, but want a protein skimmer, the 115 mini internal protein skimmer is great to add to your nano reef tank!
The K-1 Nano by IceCap is a powerful nano protein skimmer for its size. With a 2.7 x 3.2 inch footprint, it can fit even in small all in one aquariums like the Nuvo 10 and Pro Fusion 20s. The unit is powered by IceCap’s DCair 200 protein skimmer pump. These are considered the lower end pumps with the K2 pumps being considered the higher end models.
However, there are no K2 nano skimmers available. Even with this pump, the skimmate produced is pretty good. It’s also built like a in sump skimmer with an adjustable dial and bubble cage design.
It’s slightly cheaper than the Tunze Comline, but doesn’t have the reliability history that the Tunze has. It’s a great option if you want to spend a little less but also want a powerful nano protein skimmer.
Are you looking for the most powerful skimmer you can put in your nano reef tank? If so, the Aquamaxx HOB 1.5 is the skimmer to purchase. This beast is armed with a modified SICCE pump and is built to handle saltwater aquariums up to 90 gallons. You can’t get larger than this unless your nano tank somehow has a sump to put a larger skimmer inside it.
So how do you place a large protein skimmer like this in an all-in-one tank? All you do is place the intake and return in one section and the return in another. The protein skimmer will also need to hang on the back of the all-in-one saltwater aquarium, which will take away from that flushed look that these systems can provide.
While it won’t look the prettiest hanging in your tank ,this is the most powerful protein skimmer you can buy at this size. If powerful filtration is your sole focus, get this protein skimmer.
Do you have a small nano tank? Maybe even a pico tank (10 gallons and under) and what to drop a skimmer in? If so, the ReefGlass is the smallest nano protein skimmer you can purchase in the hobby. It’s small, but mighty. It is the only woodstone powered skimmer I’ll recommended to readers.
This isn’t your ordinary woodstone skimmer. This is built with Pyrex glass and it doesn’t need an unsightly side drain like those cheaper protein skimmers. It’s all made in the USA! It is designed to mount inside rimless or rimmed tanks, but it is so small it will fit in any all in one protein skimmer chamber out there. ReefGlass claims it can work with aquariums up to 30 gallons, but I’m inclined to say that this skimmer is best at the 20 gallons and under size. All you need is an aquarium air pump to get this working.
It’s small and on the expensive side (more so when you add in the pump cost), but it’s size allows you to place it anywhere in a saltwater tank.
I love the Aquamaxx HOB 1.5, but most reefs don’t want to put a giant skimmer on the back of their tank. Aquamaxx had a WS-1 skimmer, but even that was too big for most all in one tanks. I was very pleased to see that they have been listening to their customers with the introduction of the NF-1 Nano.
This little skimmer is powered by the same modified SICCE pumps that all other Aquamaxx skimmers use. This skimmer will outperform many other nano protein skimmers on the market. It is a little bit wider at 4″ in footprint, but should fit in most all-in-one aquariums.
It does have one issue where the intake will get clogged with salt creep. This means you have to clean more often than others. It’s also on the pricier side being slightly more than the IceCap skimmer. If you want a SICCE powered nano skimmer, this is a solid choice.
Pros and Cons
Pros
Small footprint
SICCE pump
Built like in sump skimmer
Cons
Intake clogs easily
Pricey
Popular Types to Avoid
So I mentioned several great picks and the best nano protien skimmer to buy. Let’s talk about ones to avoid. I made this list below because it’s really easy to select a skimmer at this size that will not work well. 2 of those I’ve had personal experience with and the others I’ve heard so much about through forums and other hobbyists that I wouldn’t recommend it over the ones that made this best of list. Let’s discuss each one below:
1. Fluval SP
The Fluval SP skimmer is a very popular choice due to the popularity of the Fluval EVO XIII. While popular, it’s not the best nano skimmer to buy. It’s major issue is micro bubbles. Hobbyists over the years have suggested that these micro bubbles can be an annoyance to fish, and irriate corals and inverts. It’s best to avoid bubbles all together in a reef tank. For this main reason, I don’t recommend the SP.
2. Seaclone
The instant ocean Seaclone was a classic skimmer recommendation when you would go to a local chain pet store because it was one of the few they sold at the stone. It’s has an overrated aquarium capacity on the box and it functions off an old school venturi pump. It is not a very effective skimmer for the price. You way better skimmers from the list above vs the Seaclone. The Tunze Comline is actually cheaper than it!
3. Airstone (Air Wood Stone) Skimmers
Airstone protein skimmers are another common find at local chain pet stores. They used to be more popular years ago before the explosion of pump driven nano protein skimmers. These airstones (AKA wood stone) skimmers are some of the least reliable protein skimmers you can buy. The airstone would produce less bubbles all the time and the skimmate production wasn’t that great. Most of these models are bulky and require to be placed in the tank. They won’t fit in all in one tanks.
For this reason, I don’t recommend them. They are cheap, but the price usually isn’t worth it. The only airstone driven skimmer I would recommend would be the ReefGlass skimmer.
What is this?
A nano protein skimmer is a skimmer that is designed to be used for aquariums that are 40 gallons or smaller. Many traditional nano protein skimmers are actually designed to be used for larger tanks or aquarium sumps. Nano skimmers are designed to have small footprints or slim designs so they can be installed internally or inside an all in one tank chamber
How To Install
Nano protein skimmers have different installation instructions then tradition protein skimmers. They are usually placed in an all-in-one chamber and will need to adjusted to accommodate the aquarium water level they are placed in. It’s also not a skimmer where you can see the neck to see the bubble production.
I’m providing a video for a visual. Check out this video from TUNZE that shows how to assemble and disassemble their nano protein skimmer
FAQS
Should I Run Skimmers On A Nano Tank?
Should you run a protein skimmer on a small tank – I would if it’s within your budget. It never hurts to add additional filtration. It would also help with handling higher stocking levels, especially if you purchase a high-quality one.
What Is The Smallest One?
The smallest nano protein skimmer you can purchase is the Reef Glass Nano. It is made of Pyrex glass and built in the USA. It is the smallest and thinnest nano protein skimmer you can buy.
Do You Need These For A Nano Tank?
No. You don’t need a protein skimmer for a nano tank. Many successful nano reef tanks run successfully without them. A protein skimmer is an added filtration system, which works with heavier bioloads. You can offset a protein will a smaller bioload or with more frequent aquarium water changes.
Do I Need A Sump?
No. You do not need a sump for a protein skimmer. Many of the protein sumps in this list can function without a protein. Also, hang-on-back protein skimmers are great if you don’t have a sump and don’t have the chambers from an all-in-one tank. You can also place a large hang-on back filter inside one of the all-in-one chambers.
Does A Nano Reef Need One of These?
No. Many nano reefs do fine without needing a protein skimmer. It’s a completely optional piece of equipment. Most aquarium owners purchase them because they want extra filtration due to desiring a heavily stocked saltwater aquarium
Closing Thoughts
So, what’s the best nano protein skimmer for your reef tank? It really depends on your specific needs and preferences. We hope that this article has helped you better understand the different types of skimmers available and how to choose the right one for your tank. Leave a comment below and let us know which type of skimmer you decided on or if you have any questions about choosing or using a nano protein skimmer.
๐ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
Most beginners assume every aquarium needs a heater. but some of the best fish in the hobby actually prefer cool water, and a few will suffer if kept too warm. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen countless coldwater fish kept in heated tropical tanks because it’s “convenient.” Short-term they look fine. Long-term they’re stressed, their immune systems are compromised, and they live a fraction of their potential lifespan. In this guide I’m covering 20 coldwater aquarium fish I’d genuinely recommend, with honest notes on the temperature range each species actually needs to thrive. not just survive.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)
The most common mistake I see with 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required)s are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything.
What Is A Coldwater Aquarium Fish?
Cold water aquarium fish can survive in temperatures of 70ยฐF or lower. They are species that come from the subtropical and temperate parts of the world where the water isn’t always warm.
Unlike most tropical fish, cold-water fish do not need a heater to survive in the home aquarium. These fish are at home in the same temperatures that most people are, so the natural room temperature of your home is usually fine for them.
The Advantages
Keeping coldwater fish can have some real benefits for aquarists and the fish themselves. Let’s take a look at some of the reasons you might choose to keep cold-water fish over tropical species.
You Don’t Need A Heater
Not needing a heater to keep the water temperature in the comfortable range has a few benefits that you might not realize.
Firstly, you don’t need to buy an aquarium heater or pay for the energy they use. In this hobby, every cent counts right? You can also think of this as a more eco-friendly option.
Heaters can be unsightly too, so you’re also able to create a more natural-looking aquarium, and reduce the amount of hardware and electrical cords you need to hide.
It Can Be Safer
Power interruptions are a fact of life for many people. With an unheated tank, you don’t need to panic when the power goes out.
Even when the lights stay on, aquarium heaters can still malfunction. This is another thing you don’t have to worry about with an unheated tank.
Less Cleaning
Algae thrive in warm water, and this can be a real challenge in planted tropical fish tanks. Coldwater can be a real blessing in heavily planted aquariums and aquascapes because the plants and glass are less likely to be covered.
15 Best Tanks
Now that you know what a cold-water fish is, it’s time to get to know some of the best species for your aquarium. I’ll be listing some important stats for each species, so you can make sure you’re making the right choice. These are:
The fish’s scientific name
Its size when fully grown
How easy it is to care for
The minimum suitable tank size
The fish’s temperament
What the fish eats
Where it comes from
The water temperature the fish prefers
It’s swimming level in the aquarium
So let’s meet them now! You can see our YouTube Video below from our channel and also follow along in our blog post:
The Japanese ricefishor Medaka fish is a great coldwater species for nano tanks. They get their name because they are often found living wild in rice paddies.
The wild type is not the most colorful fish out there, but they are amazing to watch. A golden variety, as well as some genetically modified glowing varieties, have also been developed if you’re looking for more color. These tiny schooling fish will be happiest if kept in groups of 8 or more.
The bloodfin tetra is a great schooling fish for unheated aquariums. Their blood-red fins give these silvery fish a striking look in the aquarium.
They are very hardy fish that are adaptable to a wide range of water temperatures, which means you don’t have to worry if it gets a little warmer than usual. These long-lived tetras regularly survive for over 5 years, especially if kept in groups of 6 or more.
Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: China
Water Temperature: 58-72ยฐF
Swimming Level: Midwater
White cloud mountain minnows are one of the best cold-water fish in the aquarium hobby. These schooling fish get their name from the White cloud mountain in China1, where they can be found living wild.
These peaceful fish are available in some awesome varieties including gold and long-finned types. They prefer cooler water temperatures and are easy to care for. The white cloud mountain minnow is a great choice for a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.
Markโs Experience: White Cloud Mountain Minnows
White clouds are easy mode โ and I mean that as the highest compliment. Iโve kept them and the thing most guides get wrong is recommending a heater. These fish genuinely do better at room temperature. In my tanks, 65โ68ยฐF is their sweet spot. Heating them up to tropical temperatures actually stresses them and shortens their lifespan. If you have an unheated room-temperature tank and you want a fish that will thrive rather than just survive, white cloud mountain minnows are my top pick.
Diet: Omnivore, feed sinking dried foods, live and frozen supplements
Origin: Peru
Water Temperature: 68-77ยฐF
Swimming Level: Bottom
Panda corydoras get their name from their bold black and white markings and black eyestripe. These adorable catfish are great for cold water aquariums, even though commercially bred individuals are less fussy about water temperatures than wild-caught fish.
Panda cory catfish are very peaceful and social bottom feeders that will be most confident in a school of 6 or more.
Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: South America and the Caribbean
Water Temperature: 63-82ยฐF
Swimming Level: All levels
Guppies are one of the most popular pet fish on the planet. They are very adaptable and do just as well as cold-water fish as they do in a community tank with tropical fish. These peaceful fish have been bred to display an amazing variety of colors.
Guppies are livebearers, which means they give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. It is best to keep only one sex if you don’t want these fish to multiply in your aquarium.
Diet: Omnivores, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: Venezuela, South America
Water Temperature: 64-84ยฐF
Swimming Level: All levels
Endler’s livebearers are another awesome nano species for coldwater aquariums. These tiny fish look very similar to guppies, but they stay much smaller at under 2 inches in length. They are not cold-water fish specifically, but they are very hardy and will do great in an unheated tank in a warm home.
The bristle nose pleco is an unusual fish that is very useful for eating algae. Most people assume these fish can only be kept in tropical aquariums, but they are comfortable in most unheated aquariums and many aquarists have even managed to keep them with goldfish.
Bristlenose plecos are vegetarian fish that need plenty of driftwood to graze on. They are such efficient algae eaters that you’ll need to supplement their diet with spirulina wafers and veggies to keep them well fed. The pleco pictured above is the Albino breed.
The dojo loach is a great coldwater fish species for larger aquariums. Some aquarists even keep these interesting loach fish in outdoor ponds with Koi.
The dojo loach is also known as the weather loach because they become more active when the barometric pressure changes. These interesting fish can reach up to 12 inches in length, which means they should be kept in a freshwater aquarium that holds at least 55 gallons.
9. Rosy Barb
https://youtu.be/HJmNdqwZE_Y
Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
Adult Size: 3 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 25 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: India, Nepal, Bangladesh, Pakistan
Water Temperature: 60-75ยฐF
Swimming Level: Midwater
Rosy barbs are another great species for unheated tanks. These beautiful fish have large, highly reflective scales and come in some amazing varieties like the long-fins and neons (video source).
They are social cyprinids that like to swim in larger schools, so pick up a group of 10 or more if possible. These schooling fish are easy to care for, but not the best choice for planted tanks because they tend to nibble on leaves.
10. Gold Barb
Gold Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-552736″/>
Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
Care Level: Peaceful
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, frozen, and live foods
Origin: China, Vietnam, Taiwan
Water Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater
Gold barbs are a great choice for cold water tanks with lower water temperatures. These social fish are also known as the Chinese barb fish and they should be kept in a school of at least 8.
Although wild gold barbs are greenish, the fish in the aquarium trade have been bred to have an amazing golden body color with dark blotches and reddish eyes and fins. A cool albino form is also available from time to time.
11. Axolotl
Scientific Name: Ambystoma mexicanum
Adult Size: 6-12 inches
Care Level: Moderate
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivore, feed pellets, frozen or live food
Origin: Mexico
Water Temperature: 57-68ยฐF
Swimming Level: Bottom
The axolotl is also known as the Mexican walking fish, but did you know that these amazing animals are not really fish at all? Axolotls are actually amphibians, just like frogs and salamanders! These creatures make amazing and unusual pets for freshwater aquariums.
Axolotls spend their whole lives underwater and do best when kept on their own. This is because they have a tendency to eat nano fish or even each other! They need cool water and are more active in low lighting because they are nocturnal.
12. Fancy Goldfish
Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
Adult Size: 6-8 inches
Care Level: Moderate
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: China and Eastern Asia
Water Temperature: 65-72ยฐF
Swimming Level: Midwater
Goldfish are more than just feeder fish. The fancy goldfish is one of the best cold-water fish and one of the most popular pets in the world!
These fish are available in a huge range of different breeds, including amazing fish like orandas, ranchus, and bubble-eyes. Fancy goldfish can reach over 8 inches in length, and they need a larger tank than you might think, so don’t be tempted to set them up in a goldfish bowl from your local fish store.
Markโs Experience: Fancy Goldfish
Iโve kept both common goldfish and the hardier fancy varieties โ orandas and ryukins specifically. The biggest mistake I see new keepers make is underestimating space requirements. A common goldfish needs 30+ gallons and will outgrow a 10-gallon in months. Even fancy varieties need more room than their small size at purchase implies. The other non-negotiable in my tanks: double filtration. Goldfish are heavy bioload producers, so I run two filters on every goldfish tank. Get that right and theyโre surprisingly easy to keep.
13. Sunset Variatus
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
Adult Size: 2-2.8 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: Mexico
Water Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
Swimming Level: All levels
The sunset variatus is another great little livebearer for a cold water tank. This morph of the variable platy has amazing red and yellow colors, just like the sky at sunset. Sunset variatus prefer higher pH water conditions, just like many other livebearers.
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: Myanmar, Thailand
Water Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
Swimming Level: Midwater
The celestial pearl danio is an awesome nano fish species that looks amazing in a heavily planted tank. These fish are also known as galaxy rasboras or just CPDs for short.
They are fairly timid fish that prefer cooler water temperatures. Celestial pearl danios can be kept with other fish, provided their tank mates are peaceful and stay small.
15. Zebra Danio
Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: India
Water Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
The zebra danio is another great cold-water fish that is really underrated in the aquarium hobby. Zebra danios are peaceful and hardy fish that are easy to care for. Zebra danios are fast swimming, active danio fish that are amazing in community tanks and get along with many fish.
Markโs Experience: Zebra Danios
Iโve kept zebra danios and one thing I always tell people: they need more space than the standard advice suggests. These fish are built for speed and they move โ constantly, in every direction. That frenetic energy can stress slower or more timid tankmates. I run them in a 20-gallon long minimum, not a 10-gallon, and the extra horizontal swimming room makes a noticeable difference in how settled the whole tank looks. For an unheated setup, a longer footprint is your friend.
16. Paradise
Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
Adult Size: 3 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Carnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: South and East Asia
Water Temperature: 50-71ยฐF
Swimming Level: Top, Midwater
The paradise fish is also known as the paradise gourami or the Chinese fighting fish. These beautiful fish are related to betta fish and have all the colors of a tropical species, but are happy in an unheated tank.
Paradise fish have a reputation for being aggressive fish and do best in a species-only tank. Keep a single male and 2 or more females if you plan on keeping a group of these feisty fish.
17. Mosquito
Scientific Name: Gambusia affinis
Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: USA and Mexico
Water Temperature: 50-84ยฐF
Swimming Level: All levels
The mosquito fish is a small fish species that is usually kept outdoors in ponds as a mosquito larvae control. They can actually make a really fascinating cold water pet fish, however.
One thing to note is that mosquito fish can be pretty aggressive and are known to nip the fins of their tank mates. They are very hardy fish and make an interesting choice for an unheated nano tank.
18. Asian Stone Catfish
Scientific Name: Hara jerdoni
Adult Size: 1.2 inches
Care Level: Moderate
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen foods
Origin: Bangladesh, India
Water Temperature: 64-75ยฐF
Swimming Level: Bottom
The Asian stone catfish (video source) is a unique little nocturnal fish for unheated aquariums. They are not super active fish and make a great choice for a nano tank.
The Asian stone catfish can also be kept in a community tank as long as its tank mates are also small and peaceful. Feeding them at night is recommended because they are clumsy and the other fish can easily out-compete them for slow sinking food like frozen brine shrimp.
19. Rosy Red Minnows
https://youtu.be/JFi6xF2fVkI
Scientific Name: Pimephales promelas
Adult Size: 3 inches
Care Level: Easy
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful
Diet: Omnivore, feed dried, live, and frozen foods
Origin: Canada, USA, Mexico
Water Temperature: 50-78ยฐF
Swimming Level: Midwater
Rosy red minnows are more often used as bait and feeder fish than kept as pets. That’s a shame because they are great-looking fish that are perfect for cold water tanks! Rosy red minnows can be kept in a huge range of water temperatures and are even good for ponds outdoors.
20. Pygmy Sunfish
Scientific Name: Elassoma evergladei
Adult Size: 1.4 inches
Care Level: Moderate
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Temperament: Peaceful, shy
Diet: Carnivore, feed live and frozen food
Origin: USA
Water Temperature: 50-72ยฐF
Swimming Level: Bottom, midwater
The pygmy sunfish (picture source) is a cute little fish that is native to the Southeastern United States. The breeding males have stunning iridescent blue and black colors.
Pygmy sunfish are not usually seen in fish stores, although they do great in unheated aquariums. These tiny fish are actually more popular with fish keepers over in Europe than in their native North America.
ASD Coldwater Fish Scorecard
After 25 years keeping and studying these fish, here’s how I rate all 20 species across four dimensions: ease of care, visual appeal, community safety, and availability from quality suppliers.
Species
Ease (0-3)
Visual (0-3)
Community (0-2)
Availability (0-2)
ASD Score
White Cloud Mountain Minnow
3
2
2
2
9/10 โญ
Guppy
3
3
2
2
10/10 ๐
Panda Corydoras
3
3
2
2
10/10 ๐
Endler’s Livebearer
3
3
2
1
9/10
Bloodfin Tetra
3
2
2
1
8/10
Rosy Red Minnow
3
2
2
1
8/10
Zebra Danio
3
2
1
2
8/10
Fancy Goldfish
2
3
1
2
8/10
Bristlenose Pleco
2
2
2
2
8/10
Rosy Barb
2
3
1
2
8/10
Sunset Variatus
2
3
2
1
8/10
Celestial Pearl Danio
2
3
1
1
7/10
Common Goldfish
2
2
1
2
7/10
Gold Barb
2
3
1
1
7/10
Dojo Loach
2
2
2
1
7/10
Asian Stone Catfish
2
2
2
1
7/10
Japanese Rice Fish
2
1
2
1
6/10
Paradise Fish
1
3
0
1
5/10
Mosquito Fish
2
1
0
2
5/10
Axolotl
1
3
0
1
5/10
Pygmy Sunfish
1
3
1
0
5/10
ASD Coldwater Fish Scorecard โ Mark Valderrama, 25+ years fishkeeping experience
Scoring: Ease (0โ3) + Visual (0โ3) + Community (0โ2) + Availability (0โ2) = 10 max. Ratings based on Mark Valderrama’s 25+ years of direct fishkeeping experience and community observations.
Coldwater Tank Setup
Setting up a coldwater tank is just the same as setting up a tropical tank, only you won’t be using a heater. If you live in a tropical climate, however, you might need to take some steps to manage the water temperatures.
Managing Your Tank In Warm Climates
When summer comes along and temperatures in the house begin to rise, keeping your cool water fish comfortable can be tough! Here’s a list of 6 great tips on keeping your fish cool:
1. Monitor the temperature
The most important tool for managing the temperature in your cold water aquarium is a thermometer. A cost-effective solution is to use a simple glass thermometer and keep an eye on it whenever it feels a little warm in your home.
An even better option is to use a digital thermometer with a programmable alarm. This way, you can set the device to alert you when the water temperature rises beyond a certain point. Pretty smart!
2. Use minimal equipment
Knowing the actual temperature in your tank is one thing, but what can you do to keep the temperature in the safe range for your fish?
The first thing to do is switch off or remove any unnecessary equipment in the tank. Things like lights and powerheads give off small amounts of heat and can be switched off temporarily without any harm.
It’s not only the hardware inside your tank that can warm up the water, however. Computers, televisions, refrigerators, and all sorts of appliances can warm up the air around your aquarium.
3. Choose the right lighting
You might not realize it, but some aquarium lights produce plenty of heat. Not all types of aquarium lighting produce the same amount of heat, however.
Switch to LED lighting if your lights are creating heat. This is the best option for keeping your coldwater fish comfortable.
4. Turn on the AC
The temperature of the water in your aquarium is directly affected by the temperature of the air in the room. You can keep your aquarium water temperature down by keeping the room cool with air conditioning. This might not be the most energy-efficient method, but it is very effective! Another alternative is using a mobile AC system.
Not all areas of your home have the same temperature. The north side of your house will usually be cooler than the south if you live in America, Europe, or anywhere north of the equator.
Heat always rises, so the coolest part of your home will usually be downstairs or in the basement. Direct sunlight can heat the water in your tank, even if the air temperature is cool. Never set up an aquarium where it will receive direct sunlight.
6. Cool the water
You will need to cool down the water in your tank if you’ve followed all the tips above, and the water temperature is still rising too much.
The best way to do this is to use an aquarium chiller. These devices are not cheap, but they are very effective because they refrigerate the water. Aquarium chillers can be programmed to maintain a stable, constant temperature of your choice.
A less reliable, but much cheaper option is to run an airstone and an aquarium fan on the water surface. This works best in a tank with no hood. A mesh screen might be necessary though because many fish species can jump out of their tank.
Whichever method you use, make sure you change the temperature gradually to avoid stressing your fish.
Filtration
All aquariums should have good quality filtration to keep the water quality safe, and the tank looking beautiful. Coldwater tanks are no exception, and you can use the same varieties of aquarium filters as you would in a tropical setup.
An air-powered sponge filter is a great option because they do not create any heat and actually help to cool the water slightly. An external canister filter will provide superior filtration, however, and has the added benefit of not cluttering up the tank.
Tank Maintenance
Regular tank maintenance is really important for keeping your coldwater fish healthy and happy. A nice clean tank also looks great, so you can enjoy watching your fish even more. Here’s what you’ll need to do:
Testing
Being able to test your water parameters is really important for maintaining your fish tank. Firstly, testing will show you the pH and hardness of your water, which is very important for most species.
Testing for ammonia and nitrite will also allow you to determine whether your aquarium is cycled or not, and whether it’s safe to start introducing fish to a new tank.
Lastly, regular testing for nitrate levels is necessary to work out the perfect maintenance schedule for your tank.
Aquarium test kits are super easy to use, just make sure you buy a kit that can measure the following parameters:
In a healthy, cycled aquarium, beneficial bacteria break down harmful chemicals known as ammonia and nitrite into nitrate. Nitrate is a lot less toxic, but in large concentrations, this compound can still be dangerous.
Growing plenty of live plants can help to lower the level of nitrates in your tank, but the best way is to physically remove them by replacing some of the water. Use your test kit to measure the nitrate in your water. Ideally, you should try to keep the nitrate levels below 20 parts per million.
The process of performing a partial water change is simple. Start by preparing some fresh water. Use a water conditioner to neutralize any chemicals and allow the water to reach the same temperature as your tank water. You will need the same amount of water as you plan on removing.
Next, suck out water from the bottom of the tank with your gravel vacuum and into a bucket or drain. This will remove all the waste particles that have settled on the substrate.
All you have to do now is add the new water to the tank. Pour it in slowly to avoid stirring up the substrate and uprooting any plants.
Other Maintenance Tasks
You’ll also want to clean the algae off your aquarium glass from time to time. You can do this whenever necessary, but I suggest doing this just before your water change. That way you can suck up any loose algae!
You’ll also need to rinse out your aquarium filter media from time to time. There are colonies of beneficial bacteria that live in the filter media of a cycled freshwater aquarium. They are sensitive to tap water, so remember to clean your filter media in the water you have removed from the tank.
Setting Up A Coldwater Community Tank
You can set up an awesome unheated community tank, even though the options are a little more limited. Read on for some handy tips to help you stock your cold water tank.
Choosing Tank Mates
Choosing the right tank mates is essential to ensure that all your pets get along in the aquarium. The most important factors when selecting tank mates are:
Temperature compatibility
Other parameters like pH and hardness
Size and aggression levels
Live Plants
Coldwater aquariums are not only for fish. You can also grow a variety of awesome live plants in an unheated tank. The following beginner live plant species are all great options:
Malaysian trumpet snails – Minimum temperature 65ยฐF
Japanese trapdoor snail – Minimum temperature 68ยฐF
Shrimp and snails are great because they help to keep your aquarium clean. Shrimp don’t always make the best tank mates for community tanks, however. Some cold-water species like paradise fish will probably see your shrimp as a tasty snack!
Where To Buy
You can usually find the more popular coldwater species at your local fish stores. Another great place to shop aquarium fish is online, especially if you’re looking for specific fish species.
FAQs
Can a cold water tank be too cold?
All fish species have an ideal temperature range where they are most comfortable. If the water in your tank gets too cold, your fish will be under stress and might not survive.
Do you need a heater for cold water tanks?
Coldwater fish only need a heater in very cold environments. In cold climates, an aquarium in an uninsulated building might need a heater during the winter. Cold is a relative term of course, so it really depends on how cold your home is and what kind of fish you keep.
Can you have a tank without a heater?
You can definitely have a fish tank without a heater. The temperature of the water in your tank will vary with the temperature in your home, so the type of fish you can keep will be limited.
You’ll probably need to keep coldwater fish in an unheated aquarium unless you live in a tropical climate or like to keep your home really warm.
Can you keep cold water types in a tank?
Cold water fish are not only good for ponds. Even the common goldfish is considered to be a coldwater fish, and they do great in fish tanks!
Can they survive in coldwater?
Some pet fish do really well in cold water while some will not survive. It really depends on the species of fish you keep and what kind of environment they are adapted to survive in.
What About Koi?
Koi carp are an amazing coldwater fish, however, they require a large pond and their care are beyond the scope of this blog post. I felt it was best to cover them separate to not confuse readers. If you want to learn more about Koi, check out koi care articles.
Is the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Right for You?
Before you add a 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.
This species is a good fit if:
You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required)s need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.
If most of those points line up with your setup, the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.
How the 20 Great Coldwater Aquarium Fish (No Heater Required) Compares to Similar Species
Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) stacks up against some common alternatives.
The 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer usually comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the 20 great coldwater aquarium fish (no heater required) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are usually alternatives worth exploring.
Final Thoughts
Cold water aquarium fish are underrated in the hobby. Many of them are super easy to care for and make awesome pets. If you’re looking to start up a new tank, maybe you should think about ditching the heater and stocking some of the fish on this list!
What’s your favorite cold water fish species? Let me know below!
After 25+ years in this hobby, the biggest mistake I see when fish get sick is treating the wrong thing. People reach for antibiotics when the problem is parasitic, or use anti-parasitics when it’s actually a bacterial infection. The diagnosis step matters more than the medication choice. That said, having the right antibiotics on hand before you need them is critical. these illnesses can progress fast, and waiting for a shipment while a fish is deteriorating is a bad position to be in. Kanaplex is my go-to for bacterial infections, and I’ve used Furan-2 for gram-negative bacterial issues. Here’s what you need to know about how fish antibiotics work and when to actually use them.
How Do Antibiotics For Fish Work?
To understand when to treat with antibiotics, we need to first understand how fish antibiotics work.
It’s important to realize that fish antibiotics do not magically cure fish of their ailments. Instead, fish antibiotics decrease the growth of bacteria populations until the immune system of the fish is able to recover and naturally build resistance.
Simply put, fish antibiotics interfere with the physiological and reproductive abilities of bacteria, slowing or stopping growth and spread. In the aquarium setting, there are two main types of bacterial infections you need to be aware of: gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria.
Gram-Positive Bacteria vs. Gram-Negative Bacteria
Differentiating between bacteria can be complicated, but it’s necessary for accurate diagnosis and treatment. In short, the difference between gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria is their cell wall composition.
Gram-positive bacteria have a thin cell wall surrounded by an outer membrane. Gram-positive bacterial infections are less common in the aquarium setting and usually consist of Streptococcus spp..
Gram-negative bacteria lack an outer membrane but have thick polymer layers instead. Most aquatic bacterial infections arise from gram-negative bacteria, like Aeromonas spp., Flavobacterium spp., Vibrio spp., and Pseudomonas spp..
The most definitive way to tell gram-positive bacteria apart from gram-negative bacteria is by performing a gram stain, hence the name. Gram-positive bacteria will stain blue while gram-negative bacteria will stain pink.
As most hobbyists aren’t able to perform such a test, only physical symptoms can be observed for diagnosis. Gram-negative infections are typically more aggressive and deadly to fish.
Identifying Bacterial Infections
A bacterial infection can be difficult to diagnose. They often happen alongside other diseases and infections with similar symptoms, especially fungal infections. However, bacterial infections are much more common than true fungal infections as bacteria readily live in aquarium water, waiting to affect a compromised pet fish.
The most common symptoms of a bacterial infection are:
Infection is largely caused by injury alongside poor water conditions and/or malnourishment. It is possible for your fish to fight off infection if water quality is good and diet is maintained, though sometimes even the strongest pet fish can succumb to harmful bacteria.
It is near impossible to differentiate between gram-positive bacteria and gram-negative bacteria without a gram stain. Since gram-negative bacterial infections are much more common (in freshwater), most hobbyists use a fish medication that will target those bacteria first. In marine fish, gram-negative is more common.
Treating Your Aquatic Pets
Knowing what to treat is equally as important as correctly treating. Fish antibiotics have exact directions and the treatment schedule needs to be followed carefully.
How do these antibiotics move from the water into your fish, though?
How To Give To Your Pets
The best way to give fish antibiotics is through treated food. This lets the medicine be administered in more direct, higher doses and saves some damage to nitrifying bacteria. A problem arises when your pet fish refuses to eat though, making this method impossible.
Most fish antibiotics can be dosed directly into the aquarium. From there, these medicines need to be incorporated into the body of the fish, but how? This involves some physiology.
Fish experience osmoregulation1. Osmosis is the process of a solvent moving from an area of low concentration to an area of high concentration across a semipermeable membrane in order to create a balance between the internal and external environments. Osmoregulation differs between freshwater and saltwater life. Here’s a video from Its AumSum Time. The explains the difference between freshwater and saltwater fish.
Freshwater fish are hypertonic, meaning that their internal environment has more salt than their external environment. Because of this, water flows in through the gills and is absorbed by the body.
On the other hand, saltwater fish are hypotonic, meaning that their internal environment has less salt than their external environment. Because of this, water wants to leave their body. In order to compensate for this loss, saltwater fish need to actively drink water and conserve it by sending some to their digestive tract.
In the aquarium setting, this is an advantage to saltwater species. Because saltwater fish actively take water into their bodies, soluble antibiotics are much more likely to immediately enter the internal bloodstream in the marine environment. Still, freshwater fish can be given soluble antibiotics, though feeding them is much more effective.
In general, there are two ways to administer fish antibiotics for both freshwater and saltwater fish. If your fish is suffering from an external infection, then bath treatments are recommended, though they can sometimes be ineffective. If your fish is showing signs of internal infection, then food treatment is the best route.
Bath Treatments
Bath treatments are the preferred choice of treatment for external infections when the fish is refusing to eat or there are other limitations.
Bath treatments are best when there is no access to a quarantine system that allows for fish antibiotics to be directly dosed into the aquarium. This could be due to sensitive corals and invertebrates or where there is large biological filtration that could be affected.
The problem with bath treatments is that very little medicine actually enters the bloodstream of the fish. In addition, the constant transferring of the fish can be stressful and cause injury; if the fish dies during this transfer, then there was probably little hope for it in the first place.
Antibiotic-Treated Food
The best treatment for bacterial infections is through food mixed with fish antibiotics. This requires a binding factor, like Seachem Focus, so that the fish antibiotics do not leak out of the food.
This method allows the medication to be administered in large doses. However, it requires that the fish is still actively eating, which means that the infection has not yet compromised the fish to a large extent. Still, appetite can sometimes be increased through garlic or live food methods.
Injection
Lastly, injection is a possible course of treatment, though many hobbyists do not have this option available to them.
An injection is the best and most effective method of treating infections in large and expensive fish, like oscars or koi, but is often unattainable for the average hobbyist.
The 9 Best
Depending on the type and severity of the infection, different fish antibiotics will be more effective. Most of these fish antibiotics can be used in freshwater, brackish, and saltwater systems though it is recommended to read all instructions closely. We have a video just for you from our YouTube channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. Please subscribe if you enjoy our content.
1. Thomas Labs Cephalexin (Keflex)
Thomas Labs Cephalexin offers two grades of fish antibiotics: Thomas Labs Fish Flex and Fish Flex Forte. Though this antibiotic is labeled as ornamental fish antibiotics, hobbyists have actually found it to be most effective against invertebrate bacterial infections, especially those found in anemones.
This is a very broad fish antibiotics and needs to be administered in a quarantine system or bath for 5-10 days.
2. Thomas Labs Ciprofloxacin
Again, Thomas Labs offers two grades of this antibiotic: Thomas Labs Fish Flox and Fish Flox Forte.
Ciprofloxacin is much more effective as a fish antibiotic than cephalexin, though this product is regularly used to treat anemones and other invertebrates as well. Specifically, this medicine can be dosed in a bath or in a quarantine tank for gram-negative bacterial infections over the course of 5-7 days.
3. Thomas Labs Amoxicillin
Amoxicillin is a very popular antibiotic for other animals and human use. However, amoxicillin isn’t commonly used in the aquarium as a viable course of fish antibiotics. Regardless, Thomas Labs carries Thomas Laboratories Amoxicillin Fish Mox and Fish Mox Forte.
If for anything, amoxicillin is one of the few fish antibiotics, alongside penicillin and ampicillin, used for treating gram-positive bacterial infections. These fish antibiotics should not be used with invertebrates and should be administered in a quarantine tank or bath treatment for 5 days. Still, hobbyists prefer other fish antibiotics first.
Can You Use Amoxicillin In The Aquarium?
Never use antibiotics intended for human consumption in the aquarium and vice versa. Medications should always be dosed seriously and carefully. Aquarium brands have specific formulas for making ornamental fish drugs that are not for human use.
While aquarium brand amoxicillin can be used in the aquarium, hobbyists usually prefer other options first. Amoxicillin is very popular for treating other animals and humans but is generally useless in the aquarium setting. One of the only ailments hobbyists have found amoxicillin to be useful for is treating fungal infections in the eyes.
4. Nitrofuracin Green Powder
Nitrofuracin Green Powder is one of the most popular aquarium antibiotics. It is also used as a healing agent to use in quarantine tanks. This product contains methylene blue, in addition to nitrofurazone and sulfathiazole sodium, which will kill nitrifying bacteria. Nitrofuracin Green Powder is especially useful for healing cuts and abrasions while dealing with the infection.
Many hobbyists consider Nitrofuracin Green Powder to be a quicker and more effective alternative to API Furan-2. Nitrofuracin Green Powder should be dosed for at least 10 consecutive days.
5. Seachem KanaPlex + Seachem MetroPlex + API Furan-2
Seachem KanaPlex, MetroPlex, and API Furan-2 are very common fish antibiotics to dose together. These three medications can be incredibly effective at combatting a variety of infections.
Seachem Kanaplex is a 7-day kanamycin-based medicine recommended for:
MetroPlex should be dosed at the same time, though can be administered up to 3 weeks on its own. This antibiotic is made from metronidazole and is meant to treat protozoan parasites and anaerobic bacterial diseases (Cryptocaryon, Hexamita, Ichthyophthirius). Mainly, MetroPlex is used for ich, hole in the head/head and lateral line erosion (Hexamita spp./Spironucleus vortens), and velvet.
API Furan-2 targets both gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria through a 7-day nitrofurazone-based treatment. This antibiotic specifically treats for:
This combination of fish medications can cover a wide range of infections as long as the treatment is carried out in full.
6. Seachem SulfaPlex + NeoPlex
Seachem SulfpaPlex and NeoPlex can be used together at the same time or separately depending on the illness.
SulfaPlex is a general sulfathiazole-based antibiotic meant to treat bacterial, fungal, and protozoan-related illnesses. Though this product can be used in both freshwater and saltwater settings, it is most effective to travel across gills in saltwater.
Specifically, SulfaPlex can be used to treat:
Fin rot
Hemorraghic septicemia(Aeromonas hydrophilia)
Fur coat syndrome
Mouth rot
Fungus
NeoPlex is another broad neomycin sulfate-based treatment for external infections, like fin rot, bacterial lesions, bloat, and mouth rot. Most hobbyists describe it as having the same effects as topical Neosporin.
Both of these medicines should be used for at least 7 days but can be dosed for up to 3 weeks on their own.
7. API Triple Sulfa
API Triple Sulfa is one of the safer fish antibiotics treatments to use in the aquarium as it won’t completely kill all nitrifying bacteria. Still, filter media should be removed before dosing for best results.
Sulfa medications are thought to be somewhat outdated. Many hobbyists have found some resistance to these treatments and opt for stronger alternatives, like Furan-2. However, API Triple Sulfa has the benefit of being gentle on the display tank ecosystem if need be.
API Triple Sulfa can treat gram-negative bacteria, like those that cause:
Hemorrhagic septicemia (Aeromonas hydrophilia)
Bacterial gill disease
Fin rot
Cottonmouth diseases
Body slime
Cloudy Eyes
Treatment should last 10 days.
8. Enrofloxacin
Enrofloxacin is one of the most modern ways to treat bacterial infections in fish2, though it is still best administered in a quarantine tank or through 5-hour baths. Though effective, this medicine can be difficult to find; it is most commonly found as Baytril from Bayer Pharmaceuticals.
This is a fast-acting fluoroquinolone antibiotic that can help treat gram-negative and gram-positive infections.
9. AAP Spectrogram
As of 2021, AAP Spectrogram has become difficult to find fish antibiotics; this is likely in direct response to heightened pharmaceutical regulations during the Covid-19 pandemic.
If you come across AAP Spectrogram, it can be very useful for treating both gram-negative and gram-positive bacterial infections. This fish medicine is a combination of KanaPlex and Furan-2 (kanamycin/nitrofurazone), but much easier to use and more effective. It can be used to treat most infections besides parasitic ones.
Which Are Safe?
All medications that are labeled for aquarium use are safe for the aquarium. However, it is possible to overdose on some medications so it’s important to follow directions closely.
There is one thing you should avoid though, and that’s ‘natural’ medications.
Avoiding ‘Natural’ Products And Medications
While many reputable aquarium brands offer great products to their consumers, some brands take advantage of branding treatments. Some of the latest trends in the aquarium hobby have arisen from ‘natural’ fish antibiotics and medications which end up hurting fish more than helping them. Some of these organic alternatives include tannins and natural oils.
Tannins can be very beneficial to aquatic systems and can lead to healthy fish, however, they don’t exactly help with bacterial infections. Research has found that tannins are only effective at combatting bacteria at very high concentrations3, much more than is reasonable for any tank size. Tannic acid is also a blood coagulant with can decrease healing rates.
Natural oils, like those found in MelaFix and PimaFix, are also detrimental to the health of your fish. Though these oils might look and smell medicinal, they have been linked to swim bladder damage and have been found to be nearly ineffective at low concentrations. Similarly, aloe vera also inhibits your fish’s ability to exchange oxygen and increases available sugars for bacteria to feed on.
Though it might seem like a good idea to stay as natural as possible when it comes to treating fish diseases, it is usually safer and easier to use tried and true fish antibiotics.
Can You Give Your Fish Over-The-Counter Human Types?
Fish should never be given medications intended for human consumption. Though the chemical makeup may be similar between medicines, factors like dosages, solubilities, and efficacy cannot be known.
It is true that some fish antibiotics have become difficult to find recently. Though you may not be able to get the antibiotics of your choice, there are many alternatives for each treatment from reputable aquariums brands like API and Seachem. This makes treating your fish safe, fast, and easy.
Can Humans Take Fish Meds?
Also no! You should never be using an antibiotic you haven’t been personally prescribed. Not only does this put your own health at risk, but it can also make it difficult for other hobbyists to obtain these fish antibiotics in the future, like AAP Spectrogram.
In case of a medical emergency, consult your primary doctor.
Where To Buy
It’s actually getting more challenging these days to purchase fish antibiotics as regulations get tougher from states (and the food and drug administration). Supplies have also gotten tighter. Here are a few places you can likely find the fish med you are looking for.
Chain Pet Stores and Local Stores
These are usually your defaults when you are in a hurry for a fish medication and you can’t wait even on 2 day shipping. The problem that you run into with either is the limited availability. You will usually find Seachem medications at both stores, but hours will be limited. Sometimes you can get to a chain pet store like a Petco later at night as they tend to stay open later than local fish stores.
Amazon
Another default choice for fish antibiotics is because of availability and speed of shipping. Again, the brand limitation can be an issue. Thomas Labs fish antibiotic medication isn’t always available here. There is another choice if you are looking for Thomas Lab medications.
Chewy
Chewy surprisedly has a number of Thomas Lab fish meds available. They ship slower than amazon through. They also have generic Thomas Lab medications under the name Aqua-Mox that is available.
National Fish Pharmacy
This is a great choice when looking for Nitrofuracin Green Powder. They sell in bulk sizes and shipping is slow. This is a good choice if you are building a fish pharmacy for emergencies.
There’s a lot more to fish antibiotics than you might have thought. Identifying a bacterial infection in your fish can be difficult, but treatment doesn’t need to be complicated.
First, understand the difference between gram-positive and gram-negative infections. Then choose a course of fish antibiotics and a method for administering them. Keep up with water changes and water parameters and keep your fish eating.
Within no time, the infection should start to heal and your fish will get back to normal
The 20 gallon is the sweet spot for hobbyists stepping up from a nano. it opens up far more fish options than a 10 gallon while still being manageable in terms of maintenance and space. I’ve set up 20 gallon tanks as community tanks, species tanks, and planted setups, and it’s a size I recommend constantly for beginners who want more creative flexibility. The 20 gallon long (as opposed to the tall) is particularly good for most fish since it offers more horizontal swimming space. something I always point out when helping people decide between configurations.
Today, weโll be talking about the best 20-gallon aquariums for you and what fish to get. Let’s start by discussing criteria!
What Is The Best 20 Gallon Aquarium (Our Criteria)
I used to own a 20 gallon long aquarium. It was one of those 30 inch long standard tanks you purchase at the chain pet store. Nowadays, the options are plenty. There’s an aquarium, aquarium kit, or fully decked out system for every taste and budget – but what really makes one preferable over another? Here is how I determined my favorite choice! You can also check out our video above from our YouTube Channel.
Aquarium Layout
The rimless aquarium is a style that’s gaining popularity for its sleek design. At this size, it can be purchased at an affordable price. I want to provide multiple purchase opens and setups for you to consider.
Filtration
Several of these aquariums are going to be all in one tanks complete with a 3 stage filtration system. For kits, I want to make sure I find a glass aquarium kit with a decent starter filter that you won’t outgrow or will fall apart on you. If it is a basic fish tank, I want to make sure it’s the right dimensions to allow for multiple filter setups.
There’s a new trend in the fishkeeping world – a fish tank kit with everything included! These kits come complete with three-stage filtration systems – often times with the system built into the fish tank! Tanks made this way make it so you’ll never have to buy another filter again. Other kits may include a power filter or internal filter. I’m looking to list packages that have solid equipment so you start out on the right foot.
Lighting
Some of these aquariums will come with lighting systems. If they do, I want to lean on systems that can support low light aquarium plants if they are designed for freshwater tanks or soft corals if they are designed for saltwater.
I want to lean on systems that can support at minimum low light aquarium plants if they are designed for freshwater tanks. For saltwater tanks, they need to be the correct spectrum and have enough par to support soft corals and easy to care for LPS corals.
Price
Price is always a considerations when it comes to building your dream aquarium. The most basic of glass tank can be found for as little at $50, but high-end models will set you back more than that! This article aims at helping those who want an affordable and durable setup with great features while still being able stay within their budget constraints. An aquarium kit may also help with costs as they can be cheaper than buying all the equipment separately.
The 20 Gallon Aquarium Candidates
Below is the list of 20 gallon fish tanks that made the cut. They are from various price ranges and cover both freshwater and saltwater tanks. I’ll go over each one in detail.
So, you’ve seen the list. Now it’s time for some fish tank knowledge! Let me show ya each one below and tell ya what makes them special in their own unique wayโฆ
The UNS 60U is a great 20 gallon glass tank. It has the same dimensions as a traditional 20 gallon fish tank, but is rimless. UNS is well known in the planted fish tank community for building high quality rimless aquariums. These aquariums are well built and are actually cheaper than other rimless tanks you may find online.
This aquarium is very popular among the aquascaping community. There are plently of videos online of builds that will get your inspiration going. Here is a great example of wjhdrew’s fish tank below:
Because this aquarium is the same dimensions as a rimmed 20 gallon fish tank, it should be easier to find a cabinet, or you can purchase your own. Just make sure the surface the aquarium is sitting on has support all around it. Many discount cabinets will have large gaps, which won’t work with a rimless fish tank.
It’s a great brand and a great fish tank if you want a rimless fish tank. It can be on the pricey side if you are comparing it to a rimmed fish tank, but beauty and looks does have a price!
The Waterbox 20 Cube offers a great looking cubed fish tank with all the bells and whistles to get you started. It is an all-in-one fish tank with a built in filtration system. The filtration systems comes with a filter sock, which is a type of mechanical filtration that is going to be superior to most other filtration systems in this aquarium size. The socks are replaceable or washable and can be more maintenance then foam. Waterbox also includes bio-balls, carbon, and a filter sponge to round out the system.
The system is more designed for saltwater systems, but this fish tank can also be a great freshwater planted tank. It comes with a black background versus a frosted or clear background that you will see with many planted style scapes. While this might take away from the landscape look, you can balance it out by using more colorful nano fish that stand out when setting these up.
For saltwater tanks, this cube is a perfect glass tank. it has great dimensions for building up rock scape for corals and the footprint means the AI Prime a perfect light for this system. Most reefs will end up using the filter sock and opt-in for a protein skimmer for added filtration. It’s great that this system can function with either setup.
This is a great value for a cubed rimless given all the features offered for this fish tank. The price may be high for some people, but the next option offers another great value at a lower price.
The Aqueon aquarium starter kit is an excellent budget option for those who want to get started with fish keeping. This because they offer a multitude of equipment in one package, most or which performs well and remove any guesswork about what you need when starting out
This package includes everything you need to get started with fishkeeping, including a standard fish tank and hood, a fish net, fish food, and tap water conditioner. You save money by purchasing the complete set over buying each item separately! I believe this kit is one of the best 20 gallon glass aquariums because it has a better quality equipment than other kits including the Marina led aquarium kit, Tetra whisper 20, and generic brand kits.
The main difference between the Aqueon kit and the other competitors is the power filter. The Aqueon filter is a 3 stage filtration system that can tell you when it needs to be replaced, so there is no guesswork when to do maintenance. The hood is good for fish only tanks, but not good for planted tanks.
The main separator between Aqueon’s offering and the others is the power filter. Aqueon’s filter is a true 3 stage filter and as a feature that tells you when you should change the filter cartridges. The hood is good, though not ideal for planted tanks. The water heater is decently made. I’ve personally used these heaters for either a hospital tank or quarantine tank and never had an issue, but the preset heater bit too hot if you want to keep your temperature lower than 78 degrees Fahrenheit (26 Celsius).
This package is perfect for those who want an easy and stress-free experience when selecting their fish tank kit. This is the best 20 gallon fish tank kit to buy if you want cheap, yet good equipment to start.
Red sea offers the best nano reef tank available starting at 20 gallons. It offers all the benefits of your classic red sea reefer, but in the small footprint of a 20 gallon fish tank.
It offers ultra-clear glass with bevealed edges at the top and bottom for the best viewing experience you can get. The water pump provided offers 240 gallons per hour, which puts this at the 10 times turn over level you want for many desirable corals in the hobby. It’s designed to be adjusted to ensure there aren’t any dead spots in your aquarium.
The filtration system is powered by a micron filter bad and a protein skimmer can be detached from the fish tank. This is the only nano reef tank package I have seen that offers a protein skimmer out of the box – and the protein skimmer is actually pretty good. You also get a media shelf to place any chemical or biological media you want. The system also comes with an auto-top off system that has a has a built in reservoir that supply 3 days worth of freshwater.
The led lighting system is designed for reef tanks. The kit comes with a ReefLED 50, which Red Sea’s competitor to the AI Prime and AI LED lighting units. It’s a great light for corals. The light is powered by the ReefBeat App, which connects all your red sea devices together.
This is bar none the best nano reef tank you can buy today, but it comes with a big price. As the most expensive tank kit on this list, it’s not for everyone. However, this is a premium quality fish tank kit for reef setups. If you are looking for a high quality setup with the guess work taken out of it, look no further!
Innovative marine is the originator of the modern all in one nano aquariums you see in the saltwater tank hobby. This Fusion Pro 20 is their latest line of aquariums and really comes in offering premium features. This extraordinary fish tank kit comes with a mesh lid and micro glass cleaner to keep your favorite dweller from jumping out, plus it has an algae scrapper for removing unwanted algae.
The Innovative Mighty Jet DC water pump is a great option for any nano reef tank. It’s got adjustable flow rates so you can customize it to your needs, no matter what type of corals are going into the aquarium!
Innovative is a company that has been making stellar aquariums for years. Their products are worth every penny and they’re one of our favorite brands!
Want something really unique? Try Glofish. This aquarium is a kit that is specially designed for Glofish in mind.
What are Glofish? Glofish are a specialized type of fish that have a fluorescent glow to them. These fish are not injected like the old painted glass fish we used to see 20 years ago. These fish are specially bred. Their colors are hereditary traits that are passed down from generation to generation. Their breeding has helped us understand cellular disease and development1.
What you get here is a 20 gallon fish tank, a Aqueon power filter, a specialized LED lighting system and hood, artificial plants, rocks, and gravel that all show well in fluorescent lighting.
There are many Glofish fish species available these days including:
The price is not too shabby with everything that’s included here. If you want something unique, then this Glofish fish tank kit might just be what you need!
The Aqueon 20 gallon long is a great glass tank for getting length at a cheap price. While the price may seem great at first impression, it can actually end up costing more than an Aqueon glass kit to build out your system – not that there’s anything wrong doing this!
I included the links to go purchase this if you want. It’s an affordable 20 gallon fish tank and will last a long time. It’s just not my first choice, as I prefer to work with rimless aquariums these days or all-in-one systems for smaller aquariums. If you want a rimless or an all in one system, consider the other aquariums on this list.
Pros
Cheap
Long format
Easy to find
Cons
Not ideal for aquascaping
Rimmed aquarium
Best For – Freshwater Tanks
What Fish Can I Get For This Size of Tank?
Nano fish are the best choice for new aquarium keepers. They’re small, colorful and adorable! Some common nano fish species options include:
Nano reef tanks are great-looking and challenging tanks to keep. You need to be mindful when selecting freshwater fish species that will get along in a small tank like this. Here are a few options:
The clownfish and the damselfish are the two riskiest fish species of the bunch. Clownfish are iffy trying to pair at this size as a non-paired couple will fight it out until one of them submits. With the damselfish, their aggression might be too much for many on this list. If you are going to attempt a damselfish and clownfish, it’s best to pair them together as the clownfish and damsel can work through their aggression – while most other fish will be harassed to death.
Setup Guide
Setting up a 20 gallon fish tank can be stressful if it is the first time for you. Luckily, it’s easier than you think if you are guided.
I go for planted tanks or reef tanks. Here is a good video from Shawn Hineidi that shows a simple aquascape that can be installed in a 20 gallon fish tank. Check it out below:
To start building your own aquarium from scratch, you will need the following:
Filter
Heater (if going with tropical fish or marine fish)
Lighting
Decorations
Live Plants or Corals
Aquarium Filtration for The Tanks
There are a ton of options when it comes to 20 gallon fish tanks. If you want to go with a canister filter, I would recommend the OASE Biomaster 350. This is the smaller version of the Biomaster 600. It’s great for a 20 gallon fish tank. If you are looking for a pro level 20 gallon planted tank, you might want to consider upgrading to the 600 model.
You can try power filters, which are a great choice. My go to for power filters are Hagen Aquaclears. In my mind, the aquaclear is the best power filter you can purchase in the hobby.
You want to have a quality heater in order to keep your tank temperatures stable. it’s important to consider a brand like Eheim when shopping around. The heaters that come with OASE filters and controllers are also excellent choices – you’ll have no problem getting the job done!
Hooking up your heater to a controller is the best way for added safety. Inkbird has great controllers with wifi capability, and they even have an app on you phone that you can download that will send you alerts.
The range of led light options is as vast and diverse, from basic to advanced. You have the option of two great choices at this size whether you want to go with a freshwater planted tank or a saltwater reef tank.
The freshwater Serene RGB Pros have a variety of led light features that will help you grow your favorite live plants. They come with an easy-to control and adjustable controller, making this led light perfect for anyone looking to add some lushness into their aquarium!
For saltwater aquariums, the AI Prime is the best led light you can purchase for nano reef tanks. With the AI Prime, you can grow just about anything short of hardcore SPS corals. They work amazing for Zoas – a very popular beginner coral that’s great in Nano reef tanks! This led light is good for 24×24 footprints. You may have to plan a different led light if you go with a 20 gallon long. For 20 gallon longs, I would recommend the Current USA IC Pros.
The AI Prime is a great overall all light for Zoas. It contains the correct, PAR, spectrum, and spread needed to get you going with growing your own Zoa colony!
Driftwood make a solid decorative piece for 20 gallon aquariums, but you can use any type of decoration that suits your needs. Some people prefer driftwood with low tannins and others like those made from manzanita. Manzanita are reasonably placed and easy to place in an aquarium.
For saltwater tanks, I would recommend purchasing live rock at your local fish store. These are so small you really don’t need much to get started! A couple pounds is plenty – 7-10 lbs should do it for starters. Fill the rest of the aquarium up with dry rock.
Live Plants or Corals
If you’re just getting started with keeping fish, it’s best to start off by adding some beginner plants. There are many different types that will thrive in a 20 gallon tank and they can make fish’s home look more appealing too! Some great options include:
All of these live plants feeds off the aquarium water column, so you can glue them to driftwood. If your looking for a high-quality live plant seller consider buying from an online retailer like Buce Plant
Buce Plant offers a wide variety of aquatic plants for sale. With one of the largest selections in the US, you will find what you need here. They are also a great source for freshwater shrimp!
Guppies, rasboras and danios all make excellent choices for aquariums of this size. Small tetras are another great addition if you want something with more color! Corydoras catfish can’t be beat either- they’re easy to care for and require very little maintenance once established in their tank or pond surroundings. A betta sonority is also a great option.
On the saltwater side, nano reef fish like firefish gobies, clown goby, clownfish, or an azure damsel would work. Aggression is a major factor with tanks these small. Clownfish and azure damsels will be too aggressive for timid fish like fishfish.
How many can this size of tank support?
The smaller the fish, the more you’ll want to house them in a tank of their own. 10-16 small schooling freshwater fish can live together with proper filtration and decoration (or even better: live plants) for company!
Is This Size of Tank Good?
A 20 gallon tank is a great first timer’s fish tank if it is setup as a freshwater aquarium and the filtration system is of good quality. It is sizable enough to build a good filtration system and not as maintenance heavy as a 40 or 55 gallon tank.
On the saltwater side, a 20 gallon tank is considered at the moderate end of a nano reef tank. These tanks can be a challenge to maintain and keep stable. A 40 or 60 gallon breeder are the best first time saltwater tanks to start with.
Is This Sizze of Tank Hard To Maintain?
No. The ease of maintenance for a 20 gallon tank is one reason it’s so popular. You can keep your stocking reasonable while still having enough space to grow plants without worrying about maintenance issues that come with larger tanks- which means you won’t be spending as much time monitoring water quality or trimming plants!
If you plan on a heavily planted tank, the trimming and water changes and add up to a lot of maintenance time for some aquarists.
Is This Tank Big?
20 gallon tanks aren’t that big in size. The 20 gallon tank is a great size for home or office use. The standard dimensions of this type are 24″ x 13″, and they can easily be found in most stores! The 20 gallon tank is a great size for home or office use. It’s not too big, but it can hold enough water and fish to make your space feel more complete!
How much would a tank this size cost?
A basic 20-gallon tank will be about $20-$25 per gallon or $400-$500 to set up for a freshwater glass tank. For a saltwater tank, expect to pay $40-$60 per gallon or $800-$1200. You can definitely pay less than what I’m suggesting, however, keep in my the ranges I throw out are for higher-quality setups not discount store kits which tend to have low-quality equipment that will not last. A glass tank will also be cheaper than an acrylic tank in most cases.
Closing Thoughts
Whichever tank you choose, it will be a great addition to your home and provide an excellent living space for small fish. These 20-gallon tanks are perfect if thatโs what suits YOU best! If there’s anything else on this list of aquarium options but isn’t quite right (maybe too big or small), leave us questions below – we’re here everyday ready talk through any issues
๐ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
Red aquarium plants have always been one of my favorite ways to add contrast and depth to a planted tank. When I set up my 65-gallon community planted tank, I made sure to include reds throughout to create that pop against the greens. The challenge with red plants is that they demand more light and often stronger nutrients than green plants, and I’ve learned through trial and error exactly what they need to thrive. This guide covers my top picks and the key things you need to know to actually keep them vibrant. not just alive.
Why Grow Red Aquarium Plants?
We got a video for you from our YouTube Channel you can check out all about Red Plants. We go into more detail in the blog post below. Sub to our YouTube channel for more content as we post new videos every week.
If you’ve ever seen an aquascape aquarium with bright and colorful red plants in it, you’ll know what all the fuss is about. Of course, bright green plants are beautiful too, but there’s something special about dramatic rosy foliage that really catches the eye.
Growing healthy red plants can be a little bit challenging for beginners, but with the right equipment and know-how, it is a fascinating side of the planted tank hobby that any aquarist can succeed at!
10 Best Red Aquarium Plants
In a hurry? Check out red plants sold at Buce Plant!
Here we go folks, it’s time to introduce 10 amazing red aquarium plants that you can use in your own aquascape! For each plant, I’ll be providing important information like:
Ludwigia natans ‘Super Red’ is a great plant to start out with. This fast-growing stem plant for freshwater aquariums is an easy plant to care for but will develop its best color with proper lighting and CO2 injection.
It is a tall, narrow plant when grown singly, but being soft and delicate, it shows great movement when a few stems are planted together in groups.
Tank Placement: Foreground, Mid ground, Background
Origin: South America
pH: 5-7
Care level: Moderate
Lighting: Medium-High
CO2 requirement: Yes
Propagation: Rooted cuttings
Alternanthera reineckii is a very popular aquarium plant that is commonly referred to as AR for short. It is a beautiful but fragile plant that is available in many amazing varieties. AR ‘Mini’ is a relatively compact and slow-growing stem plant with amazing color.
Being a slow-growing plant, it can be prone to algae growth on its broad leaf surfaces. Give this plant stable water parameters and regular tank maintenance and it will provide you with incredible foliage and color.
AR ‘Rosanervig’ is a taller variety that makes a great midground plant for larger aquariums. It can even be used as an effective background in small tanks. This gorgeous plant has reddish-green foliage with brilliant pink veins.
Rotala rotundifolia ‘Red’is an easy-to-grow stem plant that can add amazing color to your aquarium. This fast-growing aquatic plant produces its best colors when nitrogen is limited in the tank. It is easy to trim and propagate, which makes it an excellent choice for aquascaping.
Rotala macranda ‘Mini’ is a spectacular but challenging aquatic plant for more experienced aquarists. These stem plants grow quickly with the right care, but need intense lighting and the correct nutrient balance to thrive.
This plant also needs limited nitrates to develop its red coloration, just like the previous species. Furthermore, it also needs acidic, soft water and increased carbon dioxide (CO2) levels. Are you ready for the challenge of growing this striking plant?
6. Nymphaea zenkeri – Tiger Lotus
Size: 4-30 inches
Tank Placement: Floating plant, midground
Origin: Africa
pH: 6-7.5
Care level: Easy
Lighting: Moderate
CO2 requirement: Recommended
Propagation: Root side shoots
The red tiger lotus (video source from Tropica) is a bold aquatic aquarium plant that can be used as a centerpiece plant for the mid-ground. This hardy plant species is almost a combination of a stem plant and a floating plant in that it grow its root system in the substrate while producing large, flat, floating leaves on the water surface.
The Red tiger lotus plant is easy to grow but will show its best red color if provided with high-intensity lighting system, additional carbon dioxide, and enough nutrients.
This Ludwigia species is very popular for its two-tone foliage. Each amazing leaf is green above and red below. It makes a fine background plant for small aquariums or can be used in the midground of larger tanks.
This colorful AR variety is popular for its deep red stems and pink to red young growth. The undersides of the leaves are often a striking purple color.
It is a pretty undemanding plant that has a moderate growth rate under bright lighting. This is an excellent plant for dutch style planted aquarium, providing intense color.
AR ‘Roseafolia Mini’ is a small plant that has a big presence in any planted fish tank. Its stems and foliage can be seen in a variety of reddish hues from pink, through red, to purple with intense lighting.
This versatile plant is a great size for the midground of most aquaria, and can even be trimmed down to create a lush red carpet effect in a large aquarium.
Unlike the other plants in this list, the red root floater is not rooted in the substrate. In fact, these stunning plants float at the water’s surface just like water lilies. Their tiny roots trail down into the water creating an enchanting underwater scene.
As the name suggests, these popular floating aquarium plants are best known for their bright red roots. The leaves themselves will also be a beautiful red shade if grown under bright light.
Tank setup
Now that you’ve learned about ten great plants that you can grow in your fish tank, let’s take a closer look at what you’ll need to grow healthy red aquarium plants.
Substrate
You should select a nutrient rich substrate for most popular aquatic plants that are rooted. The exceptions, of course, are floating plants like the red root floater and some epiphytes.
Aquasoils are a soil-based nutrient rich substrate designed specifically for planted tanks. There are many great options on the market, including popular varieties like:
Providing strong enough light intensity is the number one requirement for vibrant red aquarium plants. Many plants will grow quite happily in low light but remain green or just lack that wow factor that we want from the red plant species.
It is important to remember that light intensity diminishes quickly with depth. This means that low-growing plants will be getting a lot less light than taller plants. For this reason, deeper aquariums will also need stronger lighting, even if they hold the same volume of water.
A PAR level of about 100 umols measured at the bottom of the tank is a good value to aim for. This will bring out great color in most of the red aquatic plants
The Light Spectrum
When considering the needs of an aquatic plant, not just any bright light will do.
Lighting that is turned up in the blue and red spectrum is ideal, but only so much as to maintain a natural and visually pleasing look. The red spectrum not only makes red aquarium plants appear redder but also helps them develop their color.
When selecting a filtration system, opt for a model that provides a good flow and a high water turnover. A turnover rate of 5 times the volume of your aquarium per hour is a good place to start.
You can use an internal power filter or a hang-on back design to filter your aquarium, but external filters are best for creating beautiful display tanks. This is because canister filters are housed outside of the aquarium, so you won’t have to hide any hardware. OASE makes the best canister filters on the market. They are the top choice for planted aquarium owners today.
Maintaining healthy aquatic plants of any color requires an understanding of the basics of plant care. Put simply, plants need:
Light
Water
Carbon dioxide
Nutrients
That’s not all that aquatic plants need, however. You should also provide the following:
A suitable rich substrate
The correct temperature range
Suitable parameters like water hardness and pH
Healthy water flow
Good plant spacing and trimming
With this in mind, let’s take a look at the specifics you need to know for growing red plants in particular.
Growing With CO2 Supplementation
Carbon dioxide is absolutely necessary for healthy plant growth, and red plants species are no exception. Although this gas is present in all aquariums, you will need to provide an increased concentration to really see your plants flourish.
The fact is, your aquarium plants simply can’t make use of bright light without elevated CO2 levels. In fact, intense light without CO2 will probably just grow you a whole lot of algae!
CO2 Injection Systems
CO2 supplementation might be the secret ingredient for amazing plant growth, but this gas has a dark side too. It is lethal in high concentrations (above 30ppm), which is a huge problem if you keep any fish or live animals in your aquarium.
Fortunately, there are some amazing products and systems available to the modern hobbyist that make running CO2 safely pretty simple. An example of a great CO2 system includes the following components:
The highest end offering by CO2Art. This package includes everything you need to perform consistent and the highest quality CO2 injection in the industry!
Using this kind of setup, you can set your injection system to provide dissolved carbon dioxide levels between 15 and 30ppm exactly when the plants need it.
Since plants need light to use CO2, you’ll want to set your timer to fire up an hour or two before the lights go on, and then switch off at the same time as the lights go out.
Maintaining Good Water Quality
Creating an amazing underwater garden requires regular maintenance. Here’s what you’ll need to do to keep your red plants healthy and looking great:
Vacuum your gravel and carpet plants with a gravel vacuum to remove physical waste and uneaten fish food
Keep your glass clean with an algae scraper
Trim plants that are growing too large and shading out other plants. Use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors for this task
Remove all trimmings and dead plant material from the tank
Rinse out your filter media or replace cartridges when necessary
Perform a weekly water changes. Start with about 25%, but measure your nitrate levels to fine-tune your routine
Testing
A good test kit is an essential tool for maintaining a healthy aquarium and one of the best purchases you will ever make. A test kit allows you to determine whether your tank is cycled, measure the parameters of your tap water, and monitor the nitrate levels in your aquarium.
Supplements And Feeding
Your aquarium plants require regular feeding of aquarium fertilizers to keep up with the demands of growth under high light and increased CO2 levels.
A product like APT Zero from the 2Hr Aquarist is an ideal all-in-one solution for amazing growth for a planted fish tank. This formula lacks nitrate, which is great for keeping nitrogen levels down and boosting red colors while minimizing algae growth.
APT zero offers a the great supplementation of APT Complete, but want to control nitrate loads with dosing. For heavily planted dutch style tanks, go with APT Estimative Index
Many red plants look their best and develop their most intense coloration in a low nitrogen environment. That’s why reducing the nitrates in the water through regular water changes can be so important.
This technique does not work for all red plants, however, but species like Rotalarotundifolia certainly do respond best to low nitrate levels. It is not realistic to maintain zero nitrates in the long term, especially if you keep fish. Of course, plants need some nitrogen to grow, so a prolonged absence of this important element will stunt and even kill plants.
It is feasible to aim for nitrate levels below 5ppm, however, especially as a temporary method to bring out the best colors for a photo shoot for example.
Pests and other problems
The most common issues with red plants are poor color, and we know this is often a result of incorrect light, CO2 supplementation, and nutrient levels. Let’s take a look at some of the problems you may encounter.
Unwelcome Guests
Pests like snails and planaria are often introduced to aquariums as stow-aways on new aquarium plants. These animals don’t typically affect the plants themselves, but can be a major headache for other reasons. The best way to avoid introducing these pests is to grow tissue culture plants that are produced in sterile conditions.
Hungry Herbivores
Some common aquarium fish will feast on your red plants too. The following species are the usual suspects:
Aquarium plants can die back pretty alarmingly when they are moved into different environments. This phenomenon is known as melting, and it is very common.
Often, the plants you buy were grown emersed (out of water), and being submerged underwater is a huge shock. The plant responds by getting rid of its old air-loving leaves and replacing them with new ones that are ready for life underwater. Most plants will bounce back pretty quickly, and all you need to do is remove all the dead, brown or dying leaves before it rots in your fish tank.
Another potential cause for melt is unstable parameters and poor water quality. Keeping up with regular aquarium maintenance is the best way to avoid this problem.
Algae
Algae often thrive under the intense lighting needed to create a vibrant red aquarium plant. Balancing your light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide (CO2) is the best way to manage this problem, but there are some other options too.
One of the best ways to combat algae is to have plenty of healthy, fast-growing plants to outcompete this common aquarium villain. If your planted aquarium is still young and growing, there are some other options too.
Algae-eating aquarium animals can do an awesome job of keeping your tank clean, and what’s more, they are amazing creatures in their own right! Fish like Otocinclus catfish, and inverts like Amano shrimp and nerite snails are the first species that come to mind, but check out my article on aquarium algae eaters for even more great options.
If you prefer to keep plants only, there are some great products available for managing the algae in your tank. The APT Fix algae treatment is ideal for spot treating any algae in the tank before it can grow into a headache.
Your local fish store is always worth checking out for aquarium plants. Always make certain, however, that the plants are correctly labeled.
For the most part, the best place to shop for a wide variety of red plants is online. Buceplant.com is one of the most trusted online aquarium plant retailers, and they stock an amazing range of the best red aquarium plants for your fish tank.
FAQs
Do you need CO2 for these types of Tank plants?
Not all red aquarium plants need injected CO2 to grow in the home aquarium. However, all of them will benefit from increased carbon dioxide, with faster and more robust growth.
Do they need more light?
Yes, most red aquarium plants need high lighting to look their best. There are always exceptions, but most species will require high, or at least moderate light to look their best.
How do you keep these a vibrant color?
To keep red aquarium plants red you will need to provide them sufficient light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. Some plants also respond to very low nitrate levels by turning red.
What does red-light do for Tank greenery?
Red light can make red plants look even redder. The red part of the light spectrum helps plants grow tall and even is also known to stimulate flowering. On the other hand, too much red light can look unnatural, and even cause increased algae growth.
Do they need iron?
Red aquatic plants certainly need iron to grow healthy. Iron is one of the trace elements that all plants need, however, and it does not increase the red color in plants.
Final Thoughts
Red aquatic plants are often that X-factor that makes a good aquascape greatSure, they are an eye catching plant and can be a little needier than a green plant, but the results are worth it!
Do you love red plants as much as I do? If so, share your favorite red plant below. Happy aquascaping!
๐ฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.
The saltwater hobby has a reputation for being brutally difficult, and that reputation was earned. twenty years ago. Today, with captive-bred fish widely available, better affordable equipment, and the collective knowledge of online communities, it’s far more accessible than people think. The biggest mistake beginners make isn’t water chemistry or filtration. it’s fish selection. Walk into any fish store and you’ll find gorgeous, exotic species that are genuinely unsuitable for a new tank: mandarin dragonets that only eat live copepods, moorish idols that almost never acclimate to captivity, and powder blue tangs that need expert-level water quality to survive. In my 125-gallon reef, I started with forgiving species and worked up to harder ones over years. That progression is what this guide is about. the fish that actually give beginners a fighting chance.
Are you new to reef tanks? Thinking of setting one up and don’t know where to start when it comes to choosing fish? Well, you’ve come to the right place! In this article, we’re going to take a look at 10 saltwater fish that are perfect for beginners. and 3 that you should avoid at all costs. By the time you’re done reading, you’ll be armed with all the information you need to make the right choices for your tank. So let’s get started!
Saltwater For Beginners
Before considering which fish to get for your new saltwater aquarium, make a checklist and be prepared as best as possible for beginner mistakes and errors.
The saltwater hobby is said to be more difficult than the freshwater side. This is true to some extent–and saltwater is definitely much more expensive–but if done right, it doesn’t have to be a challenge. Instead, make sure that your tank is fully set up and ready to accommodate an ecosystem:
Compile a stocking list with respect to space and aggression.
Add beginner saltwater fish slowly and test water parameters regularly.
Continue regular tank maintenance.
Keep in mind that cycling a saltwater aquarium can take anywhere from 4 to 6 weeks and cannot be rushed. Also, remember that saltwater fish require much more space than freshwater ones, which can greatly impact the vision you originally had for your tank.
But how hard are saltwater fish for beginners and how can you make sure you’re stocking your tank correctly?
How Hard Is It To Keep This Type for a Pet?
The truth is that many popular saltwater fish are incredibly hardy and forgiving of beginner mistakes. Popular species, like damselfish, are some of the hardiest fish available and can make the transition from freshwater to saltwater seamless.
Saltwater tanks aren’t difficult to keep and beginner saltwater fish adapt quickly. The most challenging aspect of keeping a marine ecosystem is balancing parameters, regulating algae, and not getting discouraged when things go wrong.
The new parameter relevant to saltwater is salinity, which needs to remain around 1.020-1.025. Saltwater aquariums evaporate very quickly, especially if rimless. Unlike freshwater that can easily be topped off, evaporation causes salinity to increase. This requires some calculations as to how much freshwater needs to be added in order to maintain a constant salinity. An auto top off system and help take the guess work away.
Algae can also be much more difficult to remove in the saltwater aquarium. Various aspects, like marine salt mix, source water, and lighting, can all affect how phosphates and nitrates enter the system and subsequently influence algae growth. It will take a few months for a new tank to move past its ugly stage and even longer for hobbyists to understand how nutrients are moving through their systems.
Lastly, and probably the most challenging step, is to not get discouraged. Saltwater is expensive and losing a fish hurts. Hobbyists quickly learn to use a quarantine system to their advantage and have various medications on hand for immediate response.
It is also very common to experience a complete tank crash at least once. This can be due to malfunctioning equipment, power outages, aggressive fish, marine fish diseases, or even invertebrates that expel toxins into the water column overnight. Sadly, there is no absolute way to prevent a crash, though you will get better at damage control.
It will take some time to understand how to regulate and correct mistakes and irregularities in your system. Once your fish are established though, the payoff definitely becomes worth it.
Is This Species High Maintenance?
Saltwater fish tanks can be high maintenance, but routine makes it easy.
In the beginning stages of your tank, you may need to perform more regular water changes and test water parameters more often. During this time, the tank is becoming established, growing beneficial bacteria and balancing with the added bioload of new fish and invertebrates.
Once the tank has matured and all livestock has been added, then maintenance becomes routine. Most hobbyists only need to spend an hour or two with their tanks every week for weekly or biweekly water changes and freshwater top-offs.
It should be noted that this time range can change dramatically depending on the size and stocking of the system. A small polyp stony (SPS) coral-dominant tank will require much more trial and error and general maintenance than a basic fish only (FO) setup.
How much time you’re willing to put in will have direct effects on the appearance and health of the ecosystem. That being said, you might be wondering which size tanks take the least time but offer the biggest reward. Again, this will largely depend on the budget allowed and the type of system desired.
What Is The Best Tank Size For Newbies?
In general, a 40 gallon breeder or 60 gallon breeder tank (which replaced the 55 gallon tank) are recommended as the best tanks for beginners. Both of these tanks are standard in size, keeping equipment relatively inexpensive and easy to find. These sizes also have decent water volume, which can make fluctuations and imperfections in water parameters easier to manage. Lastly, they don’t take up too much space but can still hold a decent amount of livestock.
This new 60 gallon breeder by Aqueon has the length and width of a 75 gallon tank, but at a shorter height. This is the most economical and effective 4 foot gallon tank for the saltwater hobby now.
While these are the recommended sizes, both larger and smaller setups are completely in reach of beginner’s capabilities. Larger setups generally require a larger budget and more equipment but allow for much more life. Smaller setups need more consistency through testing and maintenance and don’t allow as much biodiversity, but are much less expensive and more compact.
10 Best Winners
Though saltwater aquarium fish are easier than they might seem, there are some species that are considerably easier than others and more suited for beginners. Below is our YouTube video from our channel if you want a visual. We’ll go into further detail below in the blog.
Don’t be fooled, though! This doesn’t make these fish any less beautiful and many are staples for the home aquarium.
Clownfish are one of the most recognizable saltwater aquarium fish available. But did you know that there are about 30 different species of this orange and white striped marine fish with even more variations available?
The ocellaris clownfish (Amphiprion ocellaris), also known as the false percula clown, is the most common species to come across and is an ideal tank mate for smaller community tanks. More aggressive types and larger clownfish, like the maroon clownfish (Premnas biaculeatus), can easily fit into bigger reefs and more involved ecosystems.
The royal gramma is another popular addition to the saltwater aquarium. This half-yellow and purple fish is appealing for beginner hobbyists due to its small size and bright colors.
Though colorful and inexpensive, these beginner saltwater fish can become aggressive towards other fish in the aquarium, especially similar-looking species that were added afterward. Royal gramma are extremely hardy fish and definitely have a lot of character to bring to the home saltwater aquarium, but aggression will need to be monitored as the fish becomes more confident in its environment.
Bangaii cardinalfish, or Kaudern’s cardinalfish, are a little more desirable than the related pajama cardinal (Sphaeramia nematoptera). These small, black and white mouthbrooding fish have also been known to successfully breed in the aquarium, making them a fun challenge for more experienced hobbyists.
Bangaii cardinalfish are only native to the Banggai Islands in Indonesia and some surrounding islands, making them a rare fish to come across in the wild. As a result, most of the Bangaii cardinalfish available in the aquarium hobby have been aquacultured.
4. Chalk Bass
Species Type: Serranus
Scientific Name: Serranus tortugarum
Size: 3 inches
Origin: Western Atlantic Ocean
Tank Size: 30 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
If you’re looking for a marine fish that isn’t commonly found in beginner aquariums, then the chalk bass might be right for you. These fish are relatively plain in color, with a bluish-white base coat and overlaying red stripes at the top of their dorsal.
Chalk bass are very hardy and fit perfectly into the community reef tank. In fact, these beginner saltwater fish are commonly kept together in small groups, though they might not always exhibit schooling behaviors. They can be shy at first but will swim in the open given the correct conditions.
5. Yellow Coris Wrasse
Species Type: Halichoere
Scientific Name: Halichoeres chrysus
Size: 5 inches
Origin: Eastern Indian Ocean
Tank Size: 50 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The yellow coris wrasse is bright yellow and difficult to pass over when shopping for new saltwater aquarium fish. Due to the size and activity of this beginner saltwater fish, yellow coris wrasses need more space than the other fish on this list.
These fish are one of the hardiest species of wrasse and like to be around other wrasses. They won’t touch corals in a reef tank, but they are likely to eat other small invertebrates available in and around the rock.
6. Tank Raised Coral Beauty Angelfish
Species Type: Centropyge
Scientific Name: Centropyge bispinosa
Size: 4 inches
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 70 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
For a long time, coral beauty angelfish were shoved into nano tanks. Just recently, hobbyists have started appreciating them as the fish that they are and housing them in the large tank setups they deserve. Though relatively small, coral beauties need room to swim and algae to graze on.
Coral beauty angelfish are relatively peaceful, but have been known to be aggressive towards similar species, like the flame angelfish (Centropyge loricula). It is believed that coral beauties are more reef-safe than their flame counterparts, but it is still possible for them to nip at corals. They are available as tank bred now. These tank bred varieties are hardier and establish better in home aquariums than their wild caught counterparts.
7. Azure Damselfish
Species Type: Chrysiptera
Scientific Name: Chrysiptera hemicyanea
Size: 3 inches
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 30 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
In addition to clownfish, other species of damselfish are very popular saltwater fish for beginners. However, they’re not always the best choice.
In general, damselfish are very aggressive fish; though cheap and small, beginners often make the mistake of adding these beginner saltwater fish to their aquariums and having other fish be terrorized by them.
Luckily, the azure damsel is one of the least aggressive species of damselfish though there’s still the possibility that they’ll establish strict territories and attack tank mates.
8. Yellow Watchman Goby
Species Type: Cryptocentrus
Scientific Name: Cryptocentrus cinctus
Size: 4 inches
Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 20 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
The yellow watchman goby is a very fun fish to have, especially if you pair it with a symbiotic species of pistol shrimp, like the tiger pistol shrimp (Alpheus bellulus); this pairing is especially popular in nano setups. Otherwise, these beginner saltwater fish are bright yellow and can bring activity to the bottom of any tank.
Yellow watchman gobies can be timid fish at first. They will burrow into the substrate and underneath rock to form tunnels, which can help be maintained by a pistol shrimp. Though these gobies won’t stray far from their burrows, they’ll come out for food and constantly try to make their home better.
9. Tank Raised Yellow Tang
Species Type: Zebrasoma
Scientific Name: Zebrasoma flavescens
Size: 8 inches
Origin: Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 125 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
Yes, yellow tangs can be a great beginner saltwater fish given that conditions are right. Hobbyists interested in getting a yellow tang for their tank need to understand that these fish are active swimmers and active grazers; they need a lot of open swimming space but they also need a lot of rock to pick at algae and other microflora.
Many yellow tangs originated from Hawaii. Unfortunately, these ecosystems have been affected by overharvesting and Hawaiiโs Department of Land and Natural Resources has needed to intervene. In early 2021, harvesting permits could not be renewed and all current permits became invalid.
Luckily, the yellow tang is commonly bred in captivity so that their delicate Hawaiin ecosystems can be repaired. This tank bred yellow tangs are hardy and adapt easily to aquarium life.
10. Firefish Goby
Species Type: Nemateleotris
Scientific Name: Nemateleotris magnifica
Size: 3 inches
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 10 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
Firefish goby are cheap, small, and unique looking, but they can quickly disappear from a saltwater tank. Unfortunately, these fish have a bad habit of jumping out of aquariums or disappearing behind rocks. This can dissuade some hobbyists, thinking they’ve done something wrong to kill the fish when actually these fish are just notorious for being difficult!
If you’re looking for something a little more colorful but with the same personality as the firefish, then a purple firefish (Nemateleotris decora) might be what you’re looking for! Make sure to use a tight-fitting lid.
Top 3 Types To Avoid
Before going out and picking up a fish for your new aquarium, there are some saltwater fish species you should actively try to avoid. Here’s another video by yours truly. I’ll provide details below in the blog post.
Though saltwater isn’t much more difficult than freshwater in the basic sense, there are some saltwater fish you will want to avoid as a beginner. Some other fish species can be sensitive to water parameters, prone to illness, or demanding when it comes to tank size and diet. These fish require extra time, consideration, and budget.
1. Hippo Tang(Blue Tang AKA Dory)
Species Type: Paracanthurus
Scientific Name: Paracanthurus hepatus
Size: 12 inches
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 180 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Available
The hippo tang goes by a few names including blue tang, hepatus tang, regal tang, and Dory fish. The fame from the movie has made this a very popular saltwater aquarium fish. Unfortunately, they are rarely kept in the conditions they need to thrive, though.
The hippo tang is not the best beginner saltwater fish due to its size, high activity levels, and sensitivity to water parameters and diseases. These fish are sold while they are only a few inches long, making them seem attainable by the average hobbyist. Within a year, they can grow to be several inches, causing many unaware hobbyists to have to find new homes for their tang.
2. Mandarin Goby
Species Type: Synchiropus
Scientific Name: Synchiropus splendidus
Size: 3 inches
Origin: Western Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 30 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Rare
Mandarin gobies are probably the most beautiful saltwater fish available but are actually one of the worst fish to have for anyone lacking experience.
These fish need a constant supply of copepods and other small invertebrates. Not only does this mean that the tank should naturally be mature with a stable ecosystem, but it may also involve setting up another system just to harvest food. Even then, these fish have been known to reject food and starve.
3. Copperband Butterflyfish
Species Type: Chelmon
Scientific Name: Chelmon rostratus
Size: 8 inches
Origin: Indo-Pacific Ocean
Tank Size: 125 gallons
Available As Tank Bred: Rare
The copper band butterflyfish is another beautiful yet difficult-to-keep saltwater fish. Like mandarin gobies, copperband butterflies rely heavily on live rock and supplemental feedings for their invertebrate-based diet. In addition, the copperband butterfly can grow to be relatively large and is an active swimmer.
These fish also fail to thrive when there are other larger, more active fish in the reef aquarium so some stocking consideration is needed. If you want to see how a healthy establish copper band butterfly behaves, check out Aaron’s video above. They need a well-established reef aquarium to thrive.
FAQs
What Is The Most Peaceful Types?
If you’re looking to set up a community reef tank, then you’ll want fish that are fully compatible with each other. This is definitely more difficult in the saltwater setting than for a freshwater aquarium, but there are still many options available.
Many of the species on our list of the best saltwater fish for beginners are compatible with one another. This extends to other species of tang, goby, blenny, butterflyfish, and angelfish. For the most part, these fish will happily live alongside one another; it should be noted that some species cannot be kept with similar-looking species, so caution is needed.
What Is The Most Aggressive?
Instead of the traditional reef tank, some saltwater hobbyists choose to set up a predatory tank. These can be popular among beginner hobbyists who are more attracted to statement fish, like pufferfish and triggerfish.
It can be difficult to tell which saltwater fish are aggressive, though. Of course, the ones with noticeable spikes or protruding teeth should be avoided if planning on setting up a community tank. However, some damselfish can be even more aggressive than predatory fish and every individual fish will have its own personality and behavior in the tank.
Because of this, it’s important to have a back up plan if suddenly one of your peaceful fish becomes aggressive overnight–yes, this does happen! This might include being able to return the fish to a local pet store or rehoming it to another hobbyist.
What Is The Easiest Type To Keep?
Tank raised clownfish are the overall easiest saltwater fish to keep in the trade. There are many varieties available and they are tolerate of many beginner mistakes. For smaller tanks, tank raised gobies can be a good option.
Are They High Maintenance?
No, saltwater fish are not high maintenance if you select the right ones. However, there are more factors to consider with saltwater fish than with freshwater fish. Marine fish require more water prep, and more expensive equipment, and diseases are more prevalent. All these factors make them more difficult to keep than most freshwater fish.
Final Thoughts
The world of saltwater can be scary, but also incredibly exciting! There are tons of popular fish species to pick from and the options might seem limitless.
If you’re just starting out though, there are definitely some beginner saltwater fish that are easier to keep than others. Once you feel confident in keeping those, then you can move on to the more challenging and expensive species.
Until then, maintain your water parameters and make your fish as happy as they can be!
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