Author: Mark Valderrama

Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)
Indian Almond Leaves are not decoration. They release tannins that lower pH, provide antibacterial properties, and create the blackwater conditions that bettas, shrimp, and many South American fish evolved in.

Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

Indian almond leaves are one of those simple additions that make a real difference in the right setup. I use them in betta tanks. They release tannins that soften the water and lower pH, mimicking the blackwater environments bettas come from, and the antifungal properties are genuinely useful for fin health. Betta breeders swear by them, and for good reason. They work well in shrimp tanks too; shrimp graze on the leaves as they decompose and seem to thrive in the tannin-rich water. The downside is purely aesthetic: the water turns tea-colored, which some people love and others don’t. Here are 5 solid reasons to consider adding them.

What Are Indian Almond Leaves?

Indian almond leaves are leaves from the Terminalia catappa tree, also known as the Indian almond tree, which is native to parts of Asia, Africa, and Australia. These Indian almond leaves, also known as catappa leaves, are collected, dried, and sold as they are very beneficial to a variety of freshwater life and are essential for replicating blackwater ecosystems in the home aquarium.

Blackwater ecosystems are defined by their tea-colored, murky waters. Underneath these dark surfaces, the chemical and medicinal properties of the water help sustain a plethora of tropical fish and invertebrates, including wild relatives of the famous betta fish (Betta splendens).

This natural environment gets its color from decaying organics that leak tannins and tannic acid. In the aquarium, tannins is released in the same way, especially by Indian almond leaves.

What Do Indian Almond Leaves Do In The Aquarium?

Not only do Indian almond leaves help replicate the natural ecosystems of many tropical fish, but there is a large list of benefits that come with using them in the aquarium.

Some of these benefits include:
- Antifungal and antibacterial properties
- Lower pH levels and soften water
- Comfort shy and stressed fish
- Quarantine system
Some of the only drawbacks to using Indian almond leaves are the blackwater appearance they give in the aquarium and their acidic properties. However, both is controlled through water changes.

1. Antifungal And Antibacterial Properties

Tannins are naturally found in many trees and plants as a form of protection. They are mainly stored in the bark and new leaves where they act to defend the plant from infectious bacteria and fungi that try to enter.

In the fish tank setting, tannins act in the same way by decreasing the number of pathogens in the water column while bolstering the immune system of the fish. So much so that Indian almond leaves have been seen as a great natural addition to aquariums struggling with fin rot. Fin rot is caused by bacteria or fungus and Indian almond leaves have been a great natural remedy.

While Indian almond leaves won’t entirely cure fin rot without any extra maintenance, they definitely increase the chances of a full recovery.

2. Lower pH Levels And Soften Water

Many tropical fish have adapted to the standard parameters of aquarium water no matter where they once originated from: 7.0 pH and 4-8 dKH. While most fish can live in these pristine conditions indefinitely, wild-caught and sensitive species will thrive in soft and acidic conditions that replicate their natural origins.

As the Indian almond leaves break down in the aquarium, they will start to release tannins and tannic acid that lower pH and general hardness. This is a gradual breakdown, and there’s little to no fear that water parameters will change too quickly for your fish to handle.

Still, it is best to test parameters regularly to make sure that your fish don’t get stressed out.

3. How Much Do They Lower pH?

The more Indian almond leaves that you add to your aquarium, the more your pH will drop due to the tannic acid being released. However, how much your pH will drop depends on some external factors that will be unique to every individual tank.

One of these factors is the carbonate hardness (KH) of the water being used. KH is the parameter that dictates how much or how little pH is buffered at any given time. An improper KH will make changing pH levels difficult and volatile. Though this won’t make a big difference when using just a leaf or two, it’s definitely something to track with long-term use.

Other factors include the rate of decomposition, water change schedule, and use of activated carbon.

In general, it is expected for pH levels to drop 1-2 ppm with the use of Indian almond leaves. This will result in pH levels settling between 5.0-7.0, which is perfect for blackwater fish species.

It is very important to keep track of pH levels when using Indian almond leaves. PH is measured on a logarithmic scale, which means that small changes in value can have much greater effects than anticipated.

4. Comfort Shy And Stressed Fish

A bed of Indian almond leaf litter is the home of and food for many tank inhabitants. Small fish will love to take shelter in and feed on a leaf litter substrate, potentially spawning and raising nearly hatched fry. Shrimp especially love being able to forage on the undersides of the leaves and will feel comfortable reproducing in the coverage they provide.

In addition, many fish and invertebrates will appreciate dimmed lighting conditions, which is achieved through the dark brown color of the water. If you’re struggling with particularly shyer fish or invertebrates, try adding some Indian almond leaves!

5. Quarantine System

As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves won’t be the only thing that cures your fish of fin rot or another fungal or bacterial infection, but they can definitely help speed up recovery and prepare fish for transfer to a new aquarium.

Indian almond leaves can safely be added to the quarantine or hospital fish tank system to bolster immunity, prevent some low grade infections, and improve water quality. Some fish keepers have abandoned all other forms of conventional aquarium medicines for the natural alternative of Indian almond leaves or another source of tannins.

Along with Indian almond leaves, water changes will still need to be kept up with to continue to maintain water parameters. Activated carbon may also need to be run for better control of parameters.

However, Indian almond leaves is a simple yet effective addition to the quarantine system for extra protection against bacterial and fungal infections.

Can You Use Too Many?

Indian almond leaves is a great addition to most fish tanks for their medicinal properties and the comfort they bring to fish.

Some hobbyists may choose to only use a few leaves here and there for aesthetic purposes while others would rather create a full leaf litter substrate that is a few inches deep. There are many ways to use Indian almond leaves, but it’s very difficult to actually use too many.

The main side effect of using too many Indian almond leaves is having very dark brown water. At some point, it will become difficult to view fish and submersed plants might even have difficulty getting the light that they need to photosynthesize.

Overly dark water can easily be fixed through a series of partial water changes or by adding activated carbon to the aquarium. Gradually the dark water will lighten in color and pH levels and water hardness will also return to where they originally were.

This is where things can become slightly problematic, though. Indian almond leaves lower pH and the hardness of the water. The more Indian almond leaves that are used, the more that those levels will decrease in the fish tank.

It is very difficult to overdose Indian almond leaves in that aspect, and, you will lose sight of your fish before the water becomes too acidic for them to handle. Also, remember that most of the fish found in these black waters have been known to survive in acidic water conditions down to 3.0 ppm or less.

While these levels is deadly if changed too fast, Indian almond leaves make this change in water quality slow and steady for your fish to safely adapt.

How To Use

Indian almond leaves are inexpensive and is found at your local pet or fish store. It is recommended to use one medium-sized leaf for every 10 gallons of water. Two may be used for the same amount of water for a stronger effect.

Indian almond leaves take only a few days to sink to the bottom of the tank. After that, they will start to noticeably decompose over the course of a month or two. There is no need to remove the Indian almond leaves at any point and they is left to decompose until there’s nothing left. Once your Indian almond leaves are nearly all gone, add a few new ones and start the process over.

Want all the benefits of Indian almond leaves but don’t necessarily want the mess? Here is how to make Indian almond leaf extract.

How To Make Extract

Indian almond leaf extract is exactly what it sounds like: a concentrated dose of tannins and tannic acid excreted from Indian almond leaves. Instead of adding Indian almond leaves directly to the aquarium, an extract is a great way to get all the benefits and natural look without any of the mess.

Here are the steps to making your own extract from Indian almond leaves (you can also see the video above by AquatikGuru):
1. Prepare dried botanicals, including Indian almond leaves, walnut leaves, and common beech leaves as well as birch and alder cones; Indian almond leaves are the most common type of leaf to use in the aquarium setting as it has been the most researched. Make sure to purchase other dried botanicals from a trusted pet store.
2. Place a handful of these botanicals into a heat-safe container that is sealed.
3. Pour boiling or hot water over the Indian almond leaves and seal the container for at least 24 hours. The water will turn dark brown.
4. At this point, the leaves may be strained out of the dark water. The Indian almond leaves may be placed directly into the aquarium for use or boiled again for another batch of Indian almond leaf extract; the only downside to reusing leaves is that they will start to decompose very quickly, which can make for a cloudy dose.
5. The recommended Indian almond leaf extract dosage is one ounce for every one gallon of water. More than this may be added at any given time as long as pH levels are carefully tracked.
If you don’t feel like making your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then there are many products available for sale in-store and online. Some options include premade tannin concentrates or powders. However, there are a few problems with these.

The main problem with using Indian almond leaf powder is that you can’t be sure of the ingredients. Unfortunately, it is possible that the powders are treated with dyes to enhance their appearance or that they include other unknown ingredients. While these dyes and ingredients aren’t likely to hurt fish if they’re from a reputable seller, dyed powder won’t give the full benefits that Indian almond leaves could otherwise.

If you don’t want to make your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then a premade liquid concentrate would be the best option for receiving the full benefits at a reasonable cost. Many fish keepers find that liquid Indian almond leaf products don’t contain a lot of product though and is expensive for the amount you’re getting; many extracts come in small bottles only meant to treat a small fish tank one time.

To find the best liquid Indian almond leaf extract, make sure that you’re getting a product that treats hundreds or thousands of gallons of water while remaining under a $25 budget. Otherwise, it is much more worth it to make your extract from separately purchased Indian almond leaves.

Are They Good For All Fish?

No, Indian almond leaves are not good for all fish. While many of the beloved fish, like tetras and angelfish, available in pet stores come from tropical blackwater ecosystems throughout the world, many other fish come from areas with basic, hard water instead. This includes:
- African and Central American cichlids
- Rainbowfish
- Killifish
- Brackish water species
- Some livebearers, including mollies, platies, and swordtails
Most of the fish on this list prefer neutral or heightened pH as opposed to acidic conditions. Though these fish might adapt to lower pH levels over time, subjecting them to unideal conditions for extended periods of time can potentially shorten their lifespan.

Instead, one of the best fish to use Indian almond leaves with is the betta fish, particularly wild bettas. Otherwise, Indian almond leaves are a very popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks as dwarf shrimp love to forage in and around the leaf litter.

Wild Bettas

Most fish keepers have had a betta fish tank at one point or another in their aquarium careers. However, not many have taken the time to understand their true natural habitat preferences and how important blackwater conditions are to their success.

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Wild betta fish species originate from southeast Asia, through parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. There, they live in extremely shallow ponds and overflows that are littered with palm fronds and other organic matter from the thick forest canopy above.

These areas are very low in visibility and oxygen, leaving the betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ that allows them to rise to the surface of the acidic water for atmospheric air. These betta fish species are also less colorful in appearance compared to their more desirable tank-raised counterparts and have more basic reds, blues, and blacks.

While not all wild betta fish species have been brought into the aquarium hobby, some popular species include Betta imbellis, Betta macrostoma, Betta picta, and Betta pugnax.

Given what is known about these wild fish, Indian almond leaves greatly help the transition between their natural habitat and the aquarium setting. Wild betta fish thrive in soft and acidic conditions. They are also very shy fish and will do well under the dark brown color of the water and the addition of some floating plants.

How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

Adding Indian almond leaves to your aquarium is simple enough and so is removing them. If it turns out that you can’t stand the appearance of blackwater that comes with Indian almond leaves, then you’re not stuck with it forever! However, it’s going to take some time and a little extra maintenance to get your aquarium back to where it was.

Though there isn’t much that can go wrong in the removal of Indian almond leaves from your aquarium, you want to take your time. PH and general hardness can cause problems when changed too quickly and it is better to be safe than sorry.

First, you want to remove the Indian almond leaves from your aquarium to stop any more tannins from entering the aquarium. If the Indian almond leaves are already in small pieces, then use an aquarium siphon. Do this by sections so that you don’t stir up too much leaf litter at once, causing ammonia to enter the water column and a potential mini-cycle to start.

At the same time, perform a 25% water change and add activated carbon to the aquarium. The water change will help introduce untinted water and the new desired water parameters while the activated carbon will strip the remaining tannins from the water.

Within a few weeks, your tank should be back to being crystal clear with higher pH and hardness levels.

Other Alternatives

As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves are the most popular aquarium botanical as effects have been studied for years. Hobbyists have tried many other options though, including using leaves and cones that they might find on their own properties.

Some popular alternatives include:
- Peat moss
- Driftwood
- Walnut leaves
- Common beech leaves
- Birch and alder cones
- Oak leaves
Driftwood is not commonly seen as a way to introduce tannins, but tannins are the reason your aquarium turns brown after adding new pieces of driftwood! Driftwood is a great alternative to botanicals altogether, especially if going for a minimal aesthetic with rocks and wood features.

If planning to collect your own botanicals, like oak leaves, survey the area for possible sources of contamination. This mainly results from runoff and pesticides but can also be from animal defecation. If there are any signs of contamination at all, do not add them to your aquarium.

Also, make sure that the leaves are completely dried as live ones can release unwanted toxins into the aquarium.

Where to Buy

Indian almond leaves is purchased at specialty fish stores or online. If you are looking to purchase them online, check out the links below. Both sellers offer high-quality leaves at great prices.

Indian Almond Leaves

These leaves can be added to your aquarium to help promote a natural habitat for bettas, shrimp, and other soft-water loving fish. Betta breeders can use these leaves to help encourage breeding behavior.

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Final Thoughts

Indian almond leaves have antibacterial and antifungal properties which can help prevent and cure low-grade infections, like fin rot, while lowering pH and water hardness. They can help shy fish feel safer and become the home to an assortment of fry and juvenile fish and invertebrates.

The only problem with using Indian almond leaves is that they can create an undesired dark tint to the aquarium water, which not all hobbyists will find appealing. These effects will need to be reversed through a series of partial water changes and the use of activated carbon.

though, the benefits outweigh the cons, especially if keeping a blackwater fish species!
April 2, 2022
How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan
Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

Axolotls have become one of the most popular aquarium pets in recent years, and it’s easy to see why. They’re bizarre-looking, personable, and surprisingly long-lived when kept correctly. In captivity, axolotls regularly reach 10 to 15 years, and some make it to 20. In the wild, they’re nearly extinct (Lake Xochimilco in Mexico is essentially their last native habitat), so what we keep in tanks are captive-bred animals that actually tend to be healthier than their wild counterparts. The biggest thing I see kill axolotls early is temperature. They need cold water, 60 to 68°F, and most people don’t realize that. Get that right along with water quality, and you’re looking at a very long-lived companion. This article breaks down the 5 key factors that determine lifespan.

Unfortunately, axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat. And so, what we get here is the laboratory-bred and tank bred axolotls that live much longer than the native ones.

But before diving straight into the topic, let’s discuss why axolotls are endangered?

Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

Axolotls are critically endangered species, which are constantly declining in the wild and might go completely extinct in the near future.

There are a number of factors that resulted in their sharp decline. In 1998, research stated that there were 6,000 axolotls per square kilometer in the lake Xochimilco. However, today, the axolotl population dropped to 35.

So, where did we go wrong? The video above goes in detail (video from Frankie’s Aquatics). I’ll also add my points below. Let’s find out.

Water Contamination

The advancements and developments anywhere bring their own consequences. Thus, the recent developments in the Xochimilco regions resulted in water pollution, making these areas havoc for aquatic animals, especially axolotls.

Overfishing

It’s an old story of supply and demand; when the Mexican walking fish became a supreme delicacy in Mexico, the demand increased, leading to overfishing. And so, the numbers of axolotls in the wild kept decreasing.

Habitat Loss

The recent expansion of Mexico city almost completely destroyed and drained the lake Xochimilco, one of the principal habitats of axolotls.

Invasive Species

Mexicans introduced a number of invasive species in Lake Xochimilco that have decimated axolotls numbers in the wild, ultimately contributing to their shape decline. Axolotls themselves are invasive in some areas, with efforts from local government to make them illegal to own.

How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

It would surprise you that axolotls only live for about five to six years in the wild. And that’s because these species are endangered in their natural habitat due to habitat loss, fatal illness, or predators that prey on them.

Therefore, axolotls live for around five years to six years in the wild.

How long do they live in captivity?

Even though we don’t have solid numbers for the oldest-known Axolotl, axolotls can live for up to 15 years in captivity. Some may even go for 20 years and longer if taken care of.

Therefore, adopting an axolotl is a huge commitment that demands consistency and dedication.

Factors that affect Their Lifespan

Like other salamander species, Axolotl’s life span mainly depends on the following factors. You can increase your axolotl life span by considering these factors and keeping them happy and healthy for an extended time.

1. Water Quality

If there is one thing that Axolotl cannot compromise, it is the tank’s water quality. Your axolotl tank’s suggested optimum water temperature is 59°F to 60°F (16-18°C). As an estimate, the water temperature should not exceed 75°F (24°C).

Additionally, the pH level of the water tank should be 7.4 – 7.6 to create a warm, welcoming environment for your smiley little pets. To increase Axolotl lifespan, your axolotl tank should be free of Chlorine and chloramines as they are harmful to your pet axolotls.

If Chlorine is detected in the water, I suggest installing a de-chlorinator to minimize the effects. Also, to get rid of the traces of Chlorine, water should be left standing for at least 24 hours before adding your Axolotl.

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2. Tank Setup and Conditions

Axolotl spends their entire lives underwater, so their only home is the tank in which they live. Make sure to reward your adorable pets with the best and high-quality tank setup and conditions.

First of all, the tank size should suffice the needs of your Axolotl. The bare minimum tank size to house one juvenile axolotl is 10 gallons. However, the tank size should be no less than 20 gallons for adult axolotl. That’s because axolotls are solitary creatures, more like messy creatures that create a lot of waste. Thus, a small tank would create serious health problems in the long run.

Secondly, it is advised to change the tank water frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal infections. Also, water changes helps keep the ammonia levels low. Suppose you’re someone who cannot commit to changing the water regularly. In that case, I suggest installing canister filters as the water flow in canister filters is regulated to prevent stress-related diseases in your pet axolotl. Also, I don’t recommend plants in an axolotl tank as your pets might destroy them, causing a lot of mess in the tank. If you must, consider soft and flexible plants so your axolotls can pass through them quickly. I suggest keeping Java ferns for axolotl tanks.

Lastly, the best choice for the substrate is sand since the particles are soft and small and cause no potential damage if swallowed.

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Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Additionally, there is absolutely no need for proper lighting in the axolotl tank. The fact that these creatures lack eyelids, intense lighting is quite stressful to animals. Also, they are nocturnal animals and enjoy the darkness. If lighting is a requirement for your plants, you can invest in an L.E.D. Bulb for your aquarium. Many pet stores stock such lights, which are dimmable and fully adjustable.

3. Food

Axolotls are carnivorous and voracious eaters that eat pretty much anything that comes their way. However, it’s essential to feed them nutritious food rich in proteins to extend axolotl lifespan. Axolotls feast on live food such as earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, salmon pellets, etc. However, juvenile axolotls can eat daphnia, white worms, and grindal worms. You can also hand-feed your Axolotl to experience an adorable pet-parent moment.

4. Handling

Axolotls are part of the salamander family are aloof in nature and like to mind their own business in a peaceful, stress-free environment. Therefore, minimal handling is required for axolotls, especially if you want them to live a happy, healthy, and long life.

Of course, you cannot avoid handling, especially while checking their skin or changing water, but it shouldn’t be done routinely. You can also keep Axolotl out of the water, although it is not recommended at all. That’s because axolotls have a slimy coat on their body which is destroyed by your hands, posing a threat to contact bacterial infection. Therefore, keep your axolotls in water and unbothered for a longer lifespan.

5. Tank Mates

Axolotls are like your introverted friends that love you but stay low-key. So, if you want to house other pets with your Axolotl, think again!

Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and they can easily harm other sleeping fish for a healthy meal. Here, I’m going to list the best axolotls tank mates for your convenience.
- Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
- Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
- Guppies
- Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
- White cloud minnows
- Other species of peaceful cool water fish
However, bear in mind that you would at least need a 55-gallon tank if you plan on keeping tank mates with your Mexican walking fish.

FAQs

Can you touch them?

Although not recommended, you can touch your axolotls in the case of emergency and urgency, i.e., while changing tank water or checking for diseases and other problems. But, handling your axolotls shouldn’t be a routine task as it is much more stressful for the pet.

Also, axolotls have a slimy coat on their skin, which might damage by the warmth of your hands, posing a severe threat to your axolotls.

How long can they be out of water?

Not so long. Axolotls can survive outside of water for a few minutes, and as soon as they dry out, things can get pretty ugly.

Axolotls’ skin is covered with a slimy coat that protects them from danger and other fungal and bacterial infection. If axolotls are out of water for too long, this coat disappears, leaving the pet in danger.

Are they good beginner pets?

Yes and no.

Axolotls are good beginner pets as they live underwater and require little to no handling. It also means that they don’t need any special care and attention. However, they are susceptible to stress-related diseases. Hence, this is why I don’t think they are a good choice for beginners.

Axolotls are very sensitive to water quality and conditions. Most axolotls spend their lives in a stressful environment just because the owners don’t care enough about their surroundings.

Therefore, if you’re a responsible novice keeper and plan to provide the proper water parameters, tank size, and optimal tank conditions to your axolotls, yes, axolotls are good beginner pets for you.

Can they live for 100 years?

No, axolotls live for around 10-15 years in captivity. The longest they can survive is approximately 20 years when the Axolotl is well-cared of in some rare cases.

How long do these pets live?

Pet axolotls live for around 10-15 years in general. In some extreme cases, when provided the suitable water parameters, conditions, and tank size, axolotls can live for up to 20 years.

Are They Immortal?

No. Axololts die naturally due to natural threats., several factors contribute to their sudden, accidental death, such as inferior water quality, food that contains toxins and are hard to digest. The primary cause of axolotl death is overheating. Therefore, an aquarium chiller is recommended for axolotls’ tank.

Axolotl lifespan is around 10-15 years with proper care, which is known to be the longest as compared to other aquatic animals.

Can They regenerate body parts?

Axolotls have the power to regenerate their body parts and internal organs such as limbs, lungs, heart, and brain.

Their ability to regenerate limbs and other organs is the prime reason for their extended life expectancy. Because if they are exposed to diseases or accidents, they will regenerate, and the organs come back to their original state.

How are axolotls different from other salamanders?

Axolotls are different from other species in a variety of ways.

1. Axolotls are larger than other species.
2. Axolotls are only native to Lake Xochimilco, whereas other species is found elsewhere.
3. Unlike most amphibians, axolotls are neotenic, which means they don’t undergo metamorphosis, and their juvenile features are retained in the adult animal.
4. Axolotls live entirely underwater and use gills for breathing.

What causes Their death?

Like other animals, axolotls die naturally. However, there are instances when they have an accidental death.

The leading causes of Axolotl’s death are poor water quality, smaller tank size, high temperature, and unsuitable mates for your axolotl pets.

To allow your axolotls to lead a happy, healthy life, it is imperative that you provide them with the right water parameters and conditions. Also, the quality of food should be superior. It is recommended to install an aquarium chiller or aquarium fans to main the water temperature.

Final Thoughts

So the answer to how long axolotls live is no longer a mystery. Axolotls, in captivity, can live for up to 10-15 years. Some may live longer for up to 20 years, provided their water and tank requirements are met.

Axolotl lifespan wholly and solely depends on how you keep it. Proper axolotl care includes tank size, water quality, food quality. If you get that all right, your smiley little pets will live longer and happier with you.

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
March 28, 2022
Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size
Sucker fish are one of the most misunderstood categories in the hobby. I’ve had people tell me their pleco “cleaned the algae” in a 10-gallon tank, not realizing it would grow to 18 inches and produce more waste than it ever consumed. Matching the right sucker fish to your tank size is everything. And there are genuinely great options for small tanks if you know where to look.

“Sucker fish” is one of those catch-all terms that gets thrown around a lot in the hobby, but it actually covers a pretty wide range of species. From common plecos to otocinclus to Siamese algae eaters. After 25+ years of keeping and recommending these fish, the biggest mistake I see beginners make is buying a common pleco without knowing it can hit 18 inches. I’ve helped a lot of people rehome full-grown plecos that outgrew their tanks. My go-to recommendation for most community tanks is the bristlenose pleco. It stays small, actually eats algae throughout its life, and is hardy enough for beginners. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the best sucker fish options for different tank sizes so you can make the right call from the start.

The Top 10 Sucker Fish Types

It’s time to learn more about ten great sucker fish species that you can keep! Different types of sucker fish have different needs so I’ve included a list of the most important information about each species that you need to know. For you visual learners, check out the video below from our YouTube channel.

Pay attention to these facts and figures:
- Scientific Name
- Difficulty Level
- Adult Size
- Temperament
- Origin
- Minimum Tank Size
- Temperature
- Diet
- pH
- Difficulty to breed
- Planted tank suitability
Now let’s meet some sucker fish!

1. Otocinclus Catfish

Otocinclus Catfish

A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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- Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: Peru, Colombia, Ecuador
- Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
- Temperature: 70-79°F
- Diet: Algae
- pH: 5.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate -Advanced
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
The otocinclus catfish is the best sucker fish for nano aquariums. That doesn’t mean this smaller species won’t enjoy a larger tank, however.

Otos are incredibly peaceful little fish that love to eat algae. You’ll find these entertaining little fish sucking on the glass, ornaments, or plants in the aquarium. They will also swim around in the midwater of the aquarium and will be much happier if kept in groups.

2. Chinese Algae Eater
- Scientific Name: Gyrinocheilus aymonieri
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Adult Size: 8-11 inches
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
- Temperature: 72-82°F
- Diet: Algae, dried foods, live & frozen foods, vegetables
- pH: 6-8
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
The Chinese algae eater is a very common sucker fish in the hobby but one that should not be bought before doing careful research. These sucker fish is pretty aggressive when they get older and have the scary habit of latching onto other fish and sucking on their slime coating.

3. Bristle Nose Pleco

Bristlenose Pleco

The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

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- Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 5 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
- Origin: South America
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
- Temperature: 73-81°F
- Diet: Vegetables, spirulina, live/frozen food
- pH: 5.5-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Easy
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
If you’re looking for a really strange and unique sucker fish for your aquarium, the bristlenose pleco is a perfect choice! These fascinating fish are also known as the bushy nose pleco.

They are relatively small as far as plecos go and very peaceful in a community aquarium. A small flower pot to hide in and some driftwood to graze on will keep this fish happy in the home aquarium.

4. Siamese Algae Eater

Siamese Algae Eater

A great algae-eating fish that is known for eating black beard algae. Grows up to 7 inches in length and requires a larger aquarium

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- Scientific Name: Crossocheilus langei
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 7 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Temperature: 68-79°F
- Diet: Algae, spirulina, vegetables
- pH: 6-7.5
- Difficulty to breed:
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
Siamese algae eaters are terrific little sucker fish that are famous for their habit of eating black brush algae (BBA). This makes them an awesome choice for planted tank enthusiasts who want a little help keeping their tank clean.

5. Zebra Pleco
- Scientific Name: Hypancistrus zebra
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Adult Size: 3.2 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
- Origin: Brazil
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
- Temperature: 79-86°F
- Diet: Live/ frozen foods, sinking pellets
- pH: 6-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
The zebra pleco is one of the best-looking sucker fish in the hobby. They stay pretty small too, making them a good choice for smaller fish tanks.

These eye-catching sucker fish are peaceful, but they is a little aggressive towards other bottom-dwelling fish in the tank. Zebra plecos also need pretty hot water conditions to thrive, so keep that in mind when picking out tankmates.

6. Sailfin Plecostomus
- Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 18 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: South America
- Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
- Temperature: 70-79°F
- Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen food
- pH: 6.5-7.4
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
- Planted tank suitability: Possible
The sailfin pleco (video source) is a large and beautiful sucker fish from South America. They get their name from their huge upright dorsal fin.

These peaceful fish are easy to keep and do very well in community setups. At over a foot in length, however, they need a large aquarium in order to thrive.

7. Trinidad Plecostomus
- Scientific Name: Hypostomus punctatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 11 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: South America
- Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
- Temperature: 72-82°F
- Diet: Algae
- pH: 6-7.5
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
The Trinidad pleco is a large species that is closely related to the common pleco or suckermouth catfish. It is a large algae eater that requires a large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. They are very peaceful and useful cleaners in large community tanks.

8. Spotted Sailfin Plecostomus
- Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys joselimaianus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 12-16 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: Brazil
- Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
- Temperature: 74-79°F
- Diet: Algae, vegetables
- pH: 6.5-7.4
- Difficulty to breed: Advanced
- Planted tank suitability: Possible
The spotted sailfin pleco is also known as the marbled sailfin or the gold spot pleco. These sucker fish are very peaceful with the other fish in their tank but they tend to show some aggression towards their own species and other plecos. These suckermouth catfish get big, so be sure to provide them with enough space.

9. Peppermint Plecostomus
- Scientific Name: Parancistrus nudiventris
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Adult Size: 7 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: Brazil
- Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
- Temperature: 73-79°F
- Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen foods
- pH: 6.5-7
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
The peppermint pleco (video source) is another incredible armored suckermouth catfish of the Loricariidae family. These sucker fish are covered with whitish spots that create an amazing look almost like the starry night sky!

Peppermint plecos are peaceful fish that are perfect for community aquariums with some water movement to recreate their natural habitat.

10. Tiger Plecostomus
- Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp.
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Adult Size: 5 inches
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Origin: South America
- Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
- Temperature: 77-82°F
- Diet: Sinking pellets, live/frozen foods, Algae, vegetables
- pH: 5.8-7
- Difficulty to breed: Moderate
- Planted tank suitability: Yes
These sucker fish (video source) have beautiful markings, which is why they are named after striped big cats. Tiger plecos are black and white, although colorful golden morphs are available in the pet trade.

These fish are very peaceful in a community setup, but should not be kept with other plecos to avoid territorial behavior or possible hybridizing.

What Are They?

Sucker fish fall into a broad category of mostly bottom-dwelling freshwater fishes that often use their specialized ventral mouth to feed and attach themselves to the ground and structure around them. Many of them are specialized algae eaters, while others graze on driftwood or feed on small invertebrates.

Sucker fish belong to several groups including the family Loricariidae which includes the well-known suckermouth catfish. Other sucker fish species like the Siamese algae eater are cyprinids from the same family as well-known fish like goldfish and barbs.

Suckerfish live in a variety of natural habitat types from lakes and small freshwater streams to slower-moving channels of larger rivers. Many of them are nocturnal fish, but they adapt really well to aquarium life and is active in dim lighting.

Tank Setup

Sucker fish are a pretty diverse group, so your tank setup will depend on which species you plan to keep. Nano species like otos is kept in fish tanks as small as 10 gallons, but some of the bigger plecos require a much bigger tank

Let’s take a look at some general sucker fish aquarium setup tips.

Substrate & Decorations

Your choice of substrate is not particularly important unless you plan on growing a heavily planted tank. Aquarium sand or aquarium gravel will work just fine, and darker colors can help your fish feel more comfortable.

Great For Bottom Feeders

Fine Natural Sand

Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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Some suckerfish like to spend the day hiding so providing some caves in the form of large ornaments or even a simple terracotta flower pot can help them feel more at home. Driftwood is also very important for these fish so be sure to place a few pieces in your tank.

Lighting & Filtration

Some sucker fish like otocinclus and Siamese algae eaters are ideal for heavily planted tanks because they are great for keeping the plants and glass clean. These fish do just fine under high lighting in these setups. Plecos, on the other hand, tend to be nocturnal and will be more active under dimmer lighting.

Filtration is important in any aquarium, but particularly vital when keeping plecos which create rather a large amount of waste. Choose a filter that can process the total volume of your aquarium at least 5 times every hour.

Heating

Maintaining the proper temperature for your tropical freshwater fish is very important. Some species, like the bristlenose pleco, can often be kept in unheated aquariums. Most other species require relatively warm water, however.

Using a good quality heater will be important to keep the temperature in your aquarium stable and in the comfortable range for your sucker fish. Add a small thermometer to help you keep an eye on the temperature.

How To Care For

After setting up a great aquarium for your sucker fish, you’re going to need to learn how to care for them and keep them healthy. Fortunately, most sucker fish are peaceful and easy to care for. Read on to learn more!

Aquarium Maintenance

Maintaining optimal water quality should be the first priority of every fishkeeper. Running a good quality filter and keeping your fish in a big enough tank is very important, but you’ll also need to test your water regularly and get ‘hands on’ to keep your tank clean.

Before introducing any fish, pick up a water test kit and measure your water parameters to see if they are appropriate for the fish you want to keep. Your water chemistry will change over time, so you’ll need to do this regularly.

Perform a regular water change every week or two to keep your nitrate levels down. This is a great opportunity to suck up waste from your substrate and rinse out your filtration media. Don’t forget to use a water conditioner to treat your tap water before refilling the aquarium.

Feeding

The different sucker fish species have different diets, so make sure you know what kind of fish you have and the kind of food it needs. Most species are to be bottom feeders.

The following food sources are ideal for the omnivorous species of sucker fish:
- Shrimp pellets
- Sinking pellets
- Blanched veggies
- Live and frozen foods like brine shrimp and blood worms
Some sucker fish eat algae as their staple diet. These fish will feed on the algae that grow naturally in your aquarium. If you don’t have enough algae to keep them well-fed, the following food sources make great supplements:
- Algae wafers
- Spirulina tablets
- Blanched veggies
Great For Bottom Feeders!

Hikari Algae Wafers

Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

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Breeding

Some sucker fish are very easy to breed and you might even find fry swimming around in your tank without even trying. Other species, however, is pretty challenging or even close to impossible to breed at home. This is a post in itself. To make it easier for you, I provided this video by Purely Aquatic.

You will need to research the breeding habits of your specific species. For the best chance at success, set up a dedicated breeding tank and make sure your fish are kept healthy and in great condition.

Best Tank Mates

Most species of sucker fish are peaceful creatures that do great in community tanks. Plecos is aggressive towards other members of their own species or other similar suckermouth fish that live on the bottom of the tank, however. Keeping just one of them in a community tank is the best bet.

The general rule is to choose non-aggressive tank mates that are not much larger than your suckerfish. That way you don’t have to worry about them being eaten by another fish. Ideal tank mates will also enjoy the same tank setup and water parameters.

Here are a few good tank mates to keep with peaceful sucker fish:
- Livebearers
- Corydoras catfish
- Tetras
- Danios
- Rasboras
- Peaceful barbs
Tankmates to Avoid
- Any aggressive fish
- Avoid keeping more than one pleco in the same tank
- Avoid keeping large, slow-moving fish with Chinese algae eaters
- Larger fish that could eat your sucker fish
Where To Buy

Most fish-keeping and pet stores sell a selection of sucker fish. Some of the rarer species will be much easier to find online, however. Always buy your fish from reputable breeders and stockists to be sure of the health and identity of the fish you buy.

FAQS

How big do they get?

The adult size of any sucker fish depends on its species. Some of the biggest types can grow over 20 inches long!

What do they eat?

Sucker fish eat a variety of different food sources. Most species are omnivorous and will feed on both animal and plant matter. Some sucker fish are specialized for eating algae, and that makes them great clean-up crew animals for home aquariums.

How long do they live?

Some sucker fish can live as long as 15 years, depending on their species. Small fish like otocinclus catfish will not live as long and have a lifespan of about 5 years or less.

Are plecos good fish for tanks?

Plecos are great freshwater fish for home aquariums. There are loads of different species that come in a huge variety of colors and patterns. Like all fish, it is important to carefully research their needs before adding them to your tank.

How many otocinclus should be kept together?

Otocinclus are social little fish that thrive if kept in groups. They will be happiest if kept in groups of 5 or more.

Final Thoughts

Sucker fish are some of the most interesting freshwater fish species in the aquarium hobby! These oddball fish can do a great job of keeping the tank clean while adding more interest to the bottom of the aquarium. If you ask me, just about every community aquarium should include sucker fish.

Do you keep sucker fish? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
March 26, 2022
Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them
Planaria are flatworms that eat shrimp fry, snail eggs, and anything small enough to catch. They are a sign of overfeeding and they spread fast in shrimp tanks.

Planaria in a shrimp tank is a breeding colony killer. Treat it immediately.

Planaria in a shrimp tank is a breeding colony killer. Treat it immediately.

What Are They?

Planaria are commonly known as flatworms. These animals belong to the Turbellaria class and the larger phylum of Platyhelminthes¹. They is found in a variety of ecosystems, including freshwater, brackish water, marine, and even in humid terrestrial settings. There, they play an important role in the ecosystem and can even be used as a bioindicator for the conditions of the environment. Though Planaria are abundant, they are actually quite sensitive to poor environmental conditions.

In addition, species of Planaria exhibit regeneration. These incredible animals are able to regenerate a new independent flatworm from just 1/200th of a piece; if split in two, the head piece will develop a tail while the tail piece will develop a head. Planaria also share some genetic similarities with humans, making flatworm bioindication and regeneration a hot topic of scientific study and application.

Because flatworms are so small and elusive, it’s impossible to know how many species exist, though rough estimates are about 4,500 unique worms. One thing is for sure though, they have happily made their way into the home aquarium.

What Do They Look Like?

If you have a planted tank or reef setup, you probably have aquarium worms in your aquarium whether you like it or not. While most species of Planaria flatworms are harmless, the good ones are difficult to tell apart from the bad ones. This is why it’s recommended to remove and treat for planarian flatworm if you find one in your aquarium regardless.

First, you need to know what one of these small worms looks like.

Planaria flatworms are named after their flat bodies. These animals are dorsoventrally compressed, meaning they have flattened bodies from both the under and upper sides. One of their main characteristics is their triangular head, which has two observable eyespots.

Flatworms are very small and stay well under half an inch in length. There are a few types of planaria worm found in the aquarium:
- Light Planaria, sometimes called white Planaria or white worms, are species from the Procotyla genus. They are freshwater worms from North America and Russia. They are very light and creamy in color, though they might have bursts of darker color across their bodies.
- Dark Planaria are often Dugesia species, which are much more widespread throughout the world and are found in freshwater ecosystems.
- Red flatworms (Convolutriloba spp.) are one of the most common marine Planaria worms to come across. They reproduce quickly and can quickly suffocate corals. When killed, these rust-colored worms also release a toxin that can become dangerous to other aquarium inhabitants. Interestingly, red flatworms are largely photosynthetic.
Keep in mind that Planaria flatworms are only a few millimeters in length, making them incredibly difficult to accurately identify. Planaria flatworms are not the only worm in the aquarium though, and lots of other aquatic worms are beneficial to our systems.

It is easy to confuse Planaria worms with detritus worms that live in the substrate, cleaning up leftover food and providing oxygenation. Detritus worms will stay in the substrate or along the bottom of the aquarium and have a long and thin rounded body. This is much different from the flattened appearance of a flatworm.

Planaria In Aquarium? How Do They Get In

Planarian worms are hitchhikers just like any other creature that has unknowingly made its way into your aquarium. They show up in your aquarium one day, fully established.

Like other hitchhikers, Planaria flatworms enter the aquarium through direct transfer of rock, media, substrate, plants, or other aquarium decorations. It is also possible that Planaria eggs are transferred on these objects which will then hatch in the new aquarium. On rare occasions, Planarian worms and eggs may be transferred with the aquarium water.

Like many other pests, Planaria populations will largely depend on the overall resource availability of the fish tank; population numbers may increase and decrease depending on water quality and feeding frequencies. While it’s normal to find one or two Planaria flatworms every now and then, you might find yourself facing an infestation.

No matter how many worms you observe in your aquarium, it is always recommended to remove them as soon as possible. This is mainly to prevent an infestation but also because it is hard to know if the type of flatworm you have is harmful to your system or not. It is better to prevent a problem before it happens than to clean up the mess.

Are They Harmful To Fish?

But how harmful are Planaria worm species? Will they kill your fish and invertebrates overnight or wait until you least expect it to strike?

No, it is very unlikely for Planaria to affect your fish and larger invertebrates, like shrimp and snails (and also crabs); at the same time, Planaria have been known to attack and kill shrimp (see video above). While some species of Planaria are parasitic, they are rarely seen in the home aquarium. Instead, most fish tank Planaria species are free-living, burrowing into the rocks and substrate.

These free-living Planaria worms can become problems, especially for corals. One of the most common pests is the red Planaria worm, which reproduces quickly and suffocates corals. However, there are other types of flatworm that target specific species of coral, like the Acropora eating flatworms (AEFW).

These flatworms, Amakusaplana acroporae, are nearly impossible to see before it’s too late. AEFW flatworms feast on the coral’s flesh and then lay their eggs around the base of the skeleton. These Planaria worms are nearly the exact same color as the Acropora they eat, making them blend in and camouflage an already bare coral skeleton.

On the other hand, a controlled Planaria population is beneficial for the home aquarium. These worms are excellent members of the cleanup crew and are a high-protein source of food for many fish species, especially wrasses. With careful feeding and regulation, these pests is put to good use.

How To Get Rid of Worms

The problem is that by the time you find one Planaria swimming across the front of your aquarium glass, you already have a problem. Remember, these worms reproduce quickly and one can quickly lead into a full Planaria infestation.

Because these worms are so small, removal is difficult. Luckily, there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms through manual removal, chemical treatment, or the addition of new aquarium inhabitants.

Manual Removal Of Flatworms

Manually removing flatworms is like treating any other pest and requires determination and consistency.

However, it’s important to keep in mind that some Planaria worms are capable of releasing toxins into the aquarium upon death, which should be avoided as much as possible. For extra precaution, make sure to run activated carbon filter media.

Otherwise, these worms is carefully removed from the aquarium over the course of a few weeks.

Aquarium Vacuuming

Remove worms as you see them. If you find one crawling along the aquarium glass, carefully use a net or other container to get it out of the fish tank. This might seem simple enough, but it’s also worth taking a few extra minutes during a water change to suck up any flatworms that you see on corals, rocks, or plants with an aquarium vacuum.

Some species, like the red flatworm, are easier to remove than others. After safely removing them from the tank water, they may be disposed of through specialized coral dips, boiling water, or other proven household chemicals.

At the same time, feedings should be decreased. As mentioned before, a blossoming Planarian worm population is often directly linked to food availability. By limiting food temporarily while also undergoing population control, eliminating flatworms becomes a whole lot easier.

Flatworm Traps

Because hobbyists regularly struggle with flatworm infestation scares, tools have been developed to make the solution as easy as possible. One of these tools is a planaria trap.

These traps come in many shapes and designs and may even be DIY’d. The main goal is to draw as many worms as possible by using extra smelly bait and leftover food. The Planaria trap is designed to allow the flatworms to enter but not to leave, letting hobbyists leave their aquariums alone to catch worms for them.

The problem with the Planaria trap is that it can attract other smaller invertebrates and cleanup crew, like adult shrimp and other worms. Though the trap won’t kill them immediately, it makes predation easier while also stressing out the animals.

The other problem with using a Planaria trap is that progress is slow and indefinite. These traps will not get rid of a Planaria infestation. Instead, they can regularly be used for population control.

Chemical Treatment

If your Planaria infestation is literally out of your hands, then you need to turn to a more immediate solution. However, chemical treatment should be a last resort as products designed only for Planaria worms is difficult to find and dose. Luckily, there are a few products that only affect Planaria, though they might originally be meant for other animals.

The best chemical treatments for eliminating Planaria are:
- Praziquantel. This treatment is safe for most fish species, though wrasses is more susceptible to negative side effects. It may kill fan and bristle worms but should not affect other invertebrates in fish tanks.
- Salifert’s Flatworm Exit. This chemical is one of the safest for all reef organisms, but will be ineffective at normal doses. This makes it so that you need to overdose on the product, which can lead to a mass die-off of worms that then release too many toxins that affect the whole tank.
- Levamisole hydrochloride. Products that have this active ingredient are Levisol, Fenbendazole, Safe-Guard, and Paracur. These chemical treatments offer wide coverage and will kill most invertebrates in the aquarium and should be used as a last resort.
- Interceptor. A canine dewormer that is used for reef tanks to eliminate flatworm infections
- No Planaria. This is a shrimp-safe treatment that works for heavy infestations. Make sure to remove beneficial aquarium snails and chemical media when using this product. The active ingredient is Betel nut palm extract. This is a natural treatment that is effective against planaria in the aquarium.
No Planaria

A shrimp safe treatment that works to eliminate Planaria from your aquarium. Great for battling infestions

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While these chemicals is extremely effective, most do not treat for Planaria eggs. This is why it’s recommended to quarantine all new live rock (for saltwater tanks), plants, substrate, and filter media that is being transferred from one aquarium to another.

New Fish And Invertebrates

One of the best things about having Planaria worms in your aquarium is having an excuse to buy new fish and invertebrates. Like any other solution for pests, new aquarium inhabitants should not be purchased for a temporary solution. Fish and invertebrates should be given what they need for an indefinite time period.

That being said, there are a few natural predators that eat Planaria in Freshwater tanks.

Freshwater Angelfish
- Scientific Name: Pterophyllum spp.
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Maximum Size: 6 inches
- Aggression: Semi-Aggressive
Freshwater angelfish are big, colorful fish that can work up an appetite. These fish are largely categorized as omnivores but can go into a frenzied state when live, meaty foods are introduced into the aquarium.

This is used to the benefit of the hobbyist as freshwater angelfish are likely to go after flatworms to supplement their diet. Though these fish aren’t the most proactive hunters, they can certainly help keep worm populations under control.

Once flatworm populations run low, angelfish can then sustain themselves on other foods instead.

Gouramis
- Scientific Name: Trichogaster spp.
- Minimum Tank Size: 10-40 gallons
- Maximum Size: 6 inches
- Aggression: Semi-aggressive
Gouramis and angelfish have very similar diets and are just as capable of controlling a flatworm population in the fish tank. These colorful fish species will gladly eat any flatworms they come across, and won’t need to be supplemented in the future.

Again, gouramis will not eliminate the problem completely but will help keep numbers down.

Tiger Barbs
- Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Maximum Size: 3 inches
- Aggression: Semi-Aggressive
In a school, tiger barb behavior has sometimes been equated to that of a hungry pack of piranhas, and they definitely have the predatory instincts to prove it!

Like angelfish, tiger barbs go into a frenzy when food is present. They are largely omnivores but will prefer a more meat-based diet, making them the perfect candidate to eat Planaria worms. The only problem is their over-aggression, which limits tank mate options.

Assassin Snails
- Scientific Name: Clea helena
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
- Maximum Size: 3 inches
If you’re pressed on space or just can’t add another fish to your aquarium, then an assassin snail is what you’re looking for. However, these snails won’t go after flatworms on their own and they might need some encouragement; all the while, it’s likely that your assassin snail will attack any other snails in the aquarium.

In order to get your assassin snail to target flatworms, it’s recommended to feed the tank less. This will make your snail hungrier and possibly more interested in the prey that is already available.

It should be noted that this is not a guaranteed method but can help hobbyists keep up with manual removal.

Saltwater solutions

In general, wrasses and blue velvet nudibranchs (Chelidonura variants) are the best biological solutions to get rid of Planaria worms. The six line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus), yellow coris, and canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) are especially known for their flatworm-eliminating powers.

Planaria worms are great food for fish and most species of wrasse won’t turn down a free meal. Unfortunately, wrasses are active fish that need more space than the blue velvet nudibranch. They also prefer a substrate that they can burrow into at night.

Other Options

Hobbyists have also tried some species of dragonet and blenny, but both these fish seem to be more interested in other food in the aquarium first.

Some hobbyists have even tried peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) that are successful Aiptasia hunters. However, they’re just as likely to move on to other foods first than to fully control Planaria worm populations in the aquarium.

Quarantine And Prevention

The best way to prevent a Planaria worm outbreak is by stopping them from entering your freshwater or saltwater aquarium in the first place. This is done by quarantining new live rocks, plants, filter media, and other aquarium decorations. Preventative dips may also be used for faster results.

With any new addition to the aquarium, a quarantine period should be allowed. This should last about 2-4 weeks to allow worms to emerge and for any eggs to hatch. At this point, the problem is contained and is freely treated with any of the methods mentioned before: manual removal, chemical treatment, or added fish and invertebrates.

The benefit of quarantine is that you don’t need to worry about sensitive fish or invertebrates that would otherwise be affected by the most effective chemical treatment options. You also don’t need to worry about nuking your tank with dead Planaria!

The quicker method (for saltwater tanks) is rinsing new objects and media in a coral dip or other homemade solution. There are many coral dips that will treat a variety of pests, including flatworms.

An alum dip is especially popular for dipping and treating freshwater live plants.

While these dips are largely effective, some worms have grown immune to their effects. Planarian eggs may also not be affected and need to be manually removed.

Final Thoughts

Planaria flatworms aren’t something you want to see in your aquarium, but they’re not the most destructive or overwhelming pest. Luckily there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms, including manual removal, chemical treatments, and new aquarium additions.

As with any pest, prevention is the best way for eliminating flatworms altogether.

🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. Your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
March 24, 2022

The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

Bettas are insectivores. That one fact should drive every food decision you make. After 25 years in this hobby and plenty of time managing fish stores, the most common mistake I see is people feeding generic tropical flakes to a fish that evolved eating insects off the water surface. Flakes are not a betta diet. They are a convenience product. The fish can survive on them, but they won’t thrive. Color fades, fins deteriorate, and lifespan shortens. The difference between a betta that lives two years and one that lives four often comes down to what you put in the tank every day.

With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve helped countless hobbyists and store customers pick the right food for their betta. I’ve tested these products in real setups and watched the difference quality food makes over time. This list reflects what I’d actually put in front of a betta fish, not just what looks good on a shelf.

Feeding your betta generic tropical flakes is one of the most common mistakes in the hobby. It’s not a betta diet. It’s a shortcut with real consequences.

WHY THIS RANKING

Rankings are based on four factors: ingredient quality (insect and whole-food sources rank above filler-based formulas), betta-specific formulation, feeding practicality for daily use, and real observed feeding response. Each food type is represented: pellet, freeze-dried, and frozen. A well-fed betta needs variety, not just one product.

What People Get Wrong About Betta Food

The biggest misconception is that bettas are easy to feed and not picky. They are picky, and for good reason: they evolved to hunt insects at the water surface. When you feed them a filler-heavy pellet or flake food, they eat it because they have no choice. But look at a betta fed properly on insect-based pellets and frozen foods over six months, compared to one on generic flakes. The color difference is visible. The activity level is different. The fin condition is different.

The second mistake: overfeeding. Bettas beg constantly. Their stomach is roughly the size of their eye. Four to six appropriately sized pellets per feeding is plenty. Feed once a day, skip one day per week. That fasting day helps prevent bloat and constipation, which are the two most common diet-related health issues in bettas.

Should You Upgrade Your Betta’s Food?

Good fit if:

Your betta is on generic flake food or a low-quality pellet with corn or wheat as first ingredients
You have noticed color fading, low activity, or digestive issues
You want your betta to live 3 to 5 years instead of 1 to 2
You are willing to use a rotation of 2 to 3 foods instead of one

Skip the upgrade if:

You are not willing to monitor portion size (overfeeding quality food still causes bloat)
You need fully automated feeding with a basic auto-feeder (frozen and freeze-dried foods don’t work in most feeders)

BUY OR SKIP?

Buy quality betta food. The difference in fish health and lifespan is real and visible. The price gap between a generic flake and Fluval Bug Bites or Northfin Betta Bits is small. The difference in what you get from your fish is not. This is one of the easiest upgrades any betta keeper can make.

The Top Picks

Editor’s Choice

Fluval Bug Bites

Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

Insect based
High protein

Most Available

Northfin Bits

Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

Pellet food
Made for bettas

Beginner Friendly

Hikari Bio-Gold

Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

Easy to find in stores
Easy to feed

For those of you in a hurry, let’s cut to the chase. My top recommendation is Fluval Bug Bites. This product is made from soldier fly larvae and provides everything a betta needs as a main food staple. Northfin Betta Bits is also an excellent choice and well priced for what you get. It has no fillers and is better than the vast majority of pellet products available. The most available and best budget option would be Hikari Betta Bio-Gold. This is sold in an easy-to-measure packet that makes it very easy to feed your betta the correct portions.

The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

Going through all the various fish food products out there, here are the products that made the cut for me. Each are high quality foods. I select a product for each type of fish food.

Picture	Name	Best For	Link
Editor’s Choice	Fluval Bug Bites	Pellet food Natural High protein	Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon
Best Value	Northfin Betta Bits	Pellet food Made for bettas	Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy
Beginner Friendly	Hikari Betta Bio-Gold	Pellet food Easy to feed	Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy
	Freeze Dried Blackworms	Freeze dried Can be soaked in vitamins	Buy On Amazon
	Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia	Freeze dried Multi-vitamin enhanced	Buy On Amazon
	SF Bay Multi-Pack	Frozen food Great variety	Buy On Petco
	Frozen Bloodworms	Frozen food Great source of protein	Buy On Petco

The 7 Best Betta Food Products

Let’s go into detail and see why each product made this list below.

1. Fluval Bug Bites

Editor’s Choice

Fluval Bug Bites

Best Betta Food

Fluval bug bites is made of various insect and shrimp ingredients making this a high quality source of protein

Buy on Petco

Buy on Amazon

As I mentioned earlier, bettas are primarily insect eaters. This is their staple diet in the wild. Fluval’s bug bites formula replicates this by using Black Soldier Fly larvae as the primary ingredient. This particular line is made for bettas, with a small enough granule size to accommodate their mouths.

What you get is a natural and protein-rich food in an easy-to-digest pellet. These pellets break apart easily and function more like freeze-dried food. From a digestive perspective, it’s the best pellet on this list. It can be messy to feed, so be mindful of portions. Once you get the hang of it, this is the best overall staple food you can buy. I use it as the base and rotate in the other foods below.

Pros and Cons

Pros

High quality ingredients
Made for bettas
Insect derived

Cons

Can be messy to feed
Doesn’t always float

MARK’S TOP PICK

Fluval Bug Bites is my number one staple betta food. The insect-based protein matches what bettas actually eat in the wild, and the feeding response is noticeably stronger than standard pellets. If you want a single food to anchor your betta’s diet, this is it. Pair it with a frozen food two or three times a week and you have a complete diet.

2. Northfin Bits

Best Betta Pellet Food

Northfin Betta Bits

A pellet fish specially formulated for Betta Fish. This is a great staple pellet food to add to your Betta’s diet!

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Buy On Chewy

Looking for high-quality pellet food to feed your betta? Northfin Betta Bits are made in Canada, packed with protein, and contain no fillers. You know exactly what your betta is getting. The pellets are sized right for bettas and produce a strong feeding response.

More expensive than budget pellets, but worth it. I rate these above Omega One and New Life Spectrum in the betta pellet category. They sink a bit faster than other pellets, which can be a minor issue for surface feeders, but soaking them for a few seconds before adding them solves that.

Pros and Cons

Pros

High quality ingredients
Made for bettas
Ideal sized pellets

Cons

Sink quicker than other pellets
Expense for a pellet food

3. HikariBio-Gold Baby Pellets

Hikari Betta Bio-Gold

Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold formula. Contains high quality ingredients in an easy to use feeding package. A great beginner food

Buy On Amazon

Buy On Petco

For beginners, Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold is the easiest to start with. The package design actually helps you count pellets and avoid overfeeding, which is one of the most common beginner mistakes. Hikari has been formulating species-specific fish foods longer than most brands and the quality is consistent.

You get less food per package than other options, and the packaging is fragile over time. Keep the package sealed and dry. But as a starter food or a rotation food alongside Fluval Bug Bites, it earns its spot on this list.

Pros and Cons

Pros

High quality ingredients
Easy to feed
Great price

Cons

Not a lot of food
Package can break

4. Freeze Dried California Blackworms

Freeze Dried Blackworms

Blackworms have impressed me for years as a superior live food for both saltwater and freshwater fish. They are also outstanding for bettas. I consider freeze-dried blackworms superior to freeze-dried bloodworms for betta use because their nutritional profile is better and they are a more natural prey item. These freeze-dried ones are easy to feed and soak up vitamin supplements beautifully.

Add Vita-chem for freshwater fish as a soak before feeding. That combination pushes color and activity noticeably. These are filling foods, so portion control matters. A learning curve is involved, but the results justify it.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Great protein source
Can be vitamin dosed
Very filling

Cons

Doesn’t float much
Can be messy

5. Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia

Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

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Daphnia is the go-to recommendation for bettas dealing with bloat or constipation. In the aquarium trade, daphnia is well known as a digestive aid, acting as a mild laxative. This Hikari version comes vitamin enhanced out of the box, which saves you the extra step. It produces one of the best feeding responses of any freeze-dried food on this list.

This is a great stepping-stone food that bridges the gap between pellets and frozen whole foods. If your betta has been finicky about trying new food types, daphnia usually gets them interested.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Vitamin enhanced
Best feeding response
Laxative for fish

Cons

Expensive
Can be messy

6. San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Freshwater Multipacks

SF Bay FW Mult-Pack

This frozen food pack contains 4 types of formulas in one package. A great overall package for freshwater fish

Buy on Petco

Anyone who has been in this hobby for years raves about whole frozen foods. The SF Bay Multi-Pack solves the single-ingredient problem by including four formulas: Freshwater Frenzy (bloodworms, cyclops, daphnia), Emerald Entree (spirulina, mysis shrimp, fish oil), Spirulina Brine Shrimp, and Bloodworms. These are whole foods, rich in protein and vitamins, and bettas go after them hard.

The cubes are large for a single betta. Plan to break them up before feeding. It’s also messy and takes freezer space. But two or three times a week as a supplement alongside a pellet staple, this is as good as it gets for home bettas.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Variety
Highly nutritious
Very filling

Cons

Doesn’t float
Messy

7. Gamma Frozen Bloodworms

Frozen Bloodworms

Frozen bloods are a great source of protein and a fish source fish naturally respond to. Very filling and works for just about any fish

Buy On Petco

Frozen blood worms are a great treat for bettas. Natural protein, pathogen-free, and bettas respond to them immediately. These are filling. A tiny pinch is all you need. Watch portions closely because it is easy to overfeed frozen bloodworms and end up with bloat or constipation.

Use as a treat, not a staple. Two or three times a week alongside a quality pellet is the right approach.

Pros and Cons

Pros

Great feeding response
Very filling

Cons

Expensive
Messy

WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

Most betta keepers do not realize that feeding bloodworms as a daily staple is one of the fastest ways to cause bloat. Bloodworms are high in protein and fat but low in the chitin and roughage bettas need for digestion. They work beautifully as a 2-3x weekly treat alongside a pellet staple, but bettas fed bloodworms as their main food regularly develop digestive problems. Freeze-dried daphnia or blackworms provide that roughage element much better, which is why they earn a spot on a rotation diet.

What Kinds Of Things Do They Actually Eat In The Wild?

Betta fish are insectivores, meaning they primarily eat insects in the wild. They hunt insects and insect larvae at or near the water surface. This means you want a diet rich in protein with the natural roughage of chitin from arthropods like brine shrimp and krill. Low-grade processed food with corn or wheat as primary ingredients simply does not match this dietary profile.

Our Criteria

When it comes to figuring out the best betta food in the aquarium trade, I look at several factors when going over the options you can buy today.

Natural foods – I want food bettas actually eat in the wild and that is nutritious to them
No fillers – Fillers are in low quality food. I want more whole food and natural food for your pet
Quality brands – No generic or unproven brands. Sticking to tried and true here
All types of foods – I’m selecting foods from pellet, freeze dried, and frozen

By working through this list, you should have a well-balanced menu for your betta fish.

Types

Let’s look at the various types of food available on the aquarium trade for bettas. Generally, the hierarchy of food from worst to best goes: Flake Food > Pellet Food > Freeze Dried Food > Frozen Food > Live Food.

Live food is the best option nutritionally but impractical for most keepers. I’ll explain the trade-offs below.

Flake

Flake food is cheap and available everywhere. It is also the lowest quality food category. Use it only in a pinch or as an auto-feeder fill. Do not rely on it as a betta’s primary diet.

Pros of Flake

Cheap
Easy to feed
Can be placed in an auto feeder

Cons of Flake

Highly processed
Typically the poorest quality fish food

Pellets

Pellet food is a step up from flake and has excellent brands like Northfin and Hikari available. A quality pellet is a solid staple for a betta, but do not over-rely on it. Pellets fed exclusively and in excess cause constipation and bloat. Soak pellets briefly before feeding to help with digestion. Rotate with freeze-dried and frozen foods.

Pros of Pellets

Good brands available
Easy to use
Can be placed in an auto feeder

Cons of Pellets

Can cause constipation or bloat
Quality can vary

Freeze Dried

Freeze-dried food offers whole food that is less processed than pellets or flakes. It looks more natural to bettas and triggers a strong feeding response. It soaks up vitamin supplements well. Use it as a rotation food several times a week.

Pros of Freeze Dried

Whole food
Takes vitamins well
Can be placed in an auto feeder

Cons of Freeze Dried

More expensive
Can be messy

Frozen

Frozen food delivers the highest nutritional value and is the most filling. Bettas come alive at feeding time with frozen food. It is also the messiest and requires freezer space. Easy to overfeed, so go small on portions.

Pros of Frozen

Very nutritious
Very filling
Lots of variety

Cons of Frozen

Messy
Expensive

Live Foods

Live foods are the best you can feed a betta. The feeding response is unmatched and even the pickiest fish takes live food. The downside is practical: sourcing live food from a store risks disease transfer, and culturing your own daphnia, brine shrimp, or California blackworms takes real time and setup.

If you want to culture your own, daphnia, brine shrimp, and California blackworms are the best choices. Rewarding hobby within the hobby, but not for everyone.

Pros of Live

Best feeding response
Best nutrition
Great for picky fish

Cons of Live

Risk of disease
Time consuming

How Much Do You Feed Your Pet?

This is a very popular question I get from readers. Bettas always look hungry and beg constantly. Their stomach is roughly the size of their eye. While it feels kind to feed them every time they beg, overfeeding causes real digestive problems and degrades water quality fast.

Feed your betta once a day, six days a week. That seventh day is an intentional fast to clean out the digestive system. Bettas can go nearly a week without food, so a single weekly fast day causes no harm and significant benefit. Start with four pellets per feeding and adjust based on your fish’s belly shape after eating. It should look slightly rounded, not extended or pineconed.

FAQs

What is the best food to feed them?

The best food to feed betta fish would be cultured live foods like daphnia and blackworms. However, this is time-consuming and not practical for most hobbyists. A high-quality insect-based pellet like Fluval Bug Bites as a staple, combined with frozen foods and freeze-dried options a few times a week, is the best practical diet. Look for brands like Fluval, Hikari, and Northfin when shopping for betta food.

Do they prefer flakes or pellets?

Bettas prefer pellets over flake foods. Pellets replicate their natural prey better and can be gulped in one bite. Overall, quality pellet food is substantially better than flake food for bettas.

How many pellets should I feed my pet?

The number of pellets depends on pellet size and your fish’s size. Generally, 4 to 6 pellets per day is appropriate for most bettas. Look at your betta’s belly after eating: it should be slightly rounded, not extended or bloated. Start small and adjust upward as needed.

Why is mine spitting out his pellets?

The most common reason is that the pellets are too large. Bettas have small mouths and need small pellets. Another possibility is that the pellets are stale or the food is not something the betta is responding to. Try soaking pellets briefly before feeding to soften them. If the problem continues, switch to a different food type or try frozen or live food to see how the fish responds.

Closing Thoughts

Feed a betta like a carnivore and the difference shows up in weeks. Better color, more activity, healthier fins, longer lifespan. These are not marketing claims. They are what happens when a fish gets a diet that matches what it evolved to eat.

Start with Fluval Bug Bites as your daily staple. Rotate in frozen bloodworms or the SF Bay Multi-Pack two or three times a week. Add freeze-dried daphnia or blackworms as a middle-ground option. That rotation gives your betta variety, complete nutrition, and the digestive roughage it needs to stay healthy long term.

For live betta food and quality fish supplies, Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish are both worth checking out for availability on quality frozen and freeze-dried options.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

March 21, 2022

How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium
If you found snail eggs in your tank, you need to identify the species before deciding what to do. Some snails produce hundreds of babies. Others produce a handful.

Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

Snail eggs are one of those problems that sneak up on you. One week your tank looks fine, and the next you’ve got hundreds of tiny snails coating the glass. I’ve been through this more than once. After adding live plants without quarantining them first. Most pest snails like bladder snails and ramshorn snails hitchhike in as eggs on plants, and they can multiply fast once they’re established. The good news is that prevention is straightforward once you know what to look for, and there are reliable ways to get things back under control. Here’s what I’ve learned works. And what doesn’t.

Freshwater Snails (Where Snail Eggs Come From)

Snail eggs start with adult snails. Whether you like it or not, snails will most likely end up in your freshwater fish tank. These invertebrates are some of the most successful hitchhikers, invading tanks by the hundreds.

The problem is that snails start off very small. They like to attach themselves to live plants and other aquarium decorations before being transferred to a new tank, making the transition from one setup to another seamless. Even more so, most freshwater snail eggs are extremely difficult to spot and are mostly immune to pesticides.

Once in the aquarium, snails will continue to reproduce either sexually or asexually; as we’ll see, there is one species of aquarium snail in particular that needs brackish water conditions to reproduce and is the most optimal choice for controlled systems. Otherwise, snail overpopulation can become a big problem for hobbyists very quickly as more snails equal more waste.

To understand how snails reproduce, we need to first understand more about the different species available to hobbyists. The main species are:
- Malaysian trumpet snails (Melanoides tuberculata)
- Ramshorn snails (Planorbidae family)
- Mystery snails (Pomacea bridgesii)
- Assassin snails (Anentome helena)
- Nerite snails (Nerita spp.)
Malaysian Trumpet Snails
- Scientific name: Melanoides tuberculata
- Maximum size: 1 inch
- Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
- Reproduction: Asexually
- Pest: Yes
Malaysian trumpet snails are some of the most problematic snails as they are believed to reproduce asexually. These snails are small and difficult to see on incoming plants and decorations as they stay under an inch long.

These aquarium snails are so problematic because not only are they asexual, but they also give birth to live young. This makes it impossible to prevent reproduction; as long as there is food in the tank, this freshwater snail species will continue to reproduce indefinitely.

Ramshorn Snails
- Scientific name: Planorbidae family
- Maximum size: 1-2 inches
- Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
- Reproduction: Sexually
- Pest: Yes
Ramshorns are unique and beautiful snails, which is probably why they end up overrunning so many aquarium systems. They have tight, swirled shells that can come in many light and dark color variations. Ramshorn snails are also effective algae cleaners and don’t take up a lot of space.

The problem is that many beginner hobbyists see these freshwater snails and think to add several to their new tank. As a sexual snail species, ramshorn snails will reproduce and lay eggs almost immediately. Once ramshorn snails have entered your aquarium, they will continue to thrive based on food availability.

Ramshorn snail eggs are some of the most difficult to see, with a transparent sac surrounding nearly transparent eggs. These eggs are laid at or below the waterline.

Mystery
- Scientific name: Pomacea bridgesii
- Maximum size: 1-2 inches
- Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
- Reproduction: Sexually
- Pest: Yes
Mystery snails are one of the most common freshwater snails to come across in your local pet store, but you won’t find them in more experienced hobbyist tanks. These snails might look like great cleaners, but they’re simply too large and reproduce too quickly if more than one snail is in the aquarium.

This species is one of the most colorful, ranging in color from light greys and yellows to marbled browns. However, they’re not the best at cleaning algae and can become a pest if allowed to reproduce. It’s believed that their radula, or their teeth-like structure, are not as strong as better algae-eating snails. Because these snails are comparatively big, they do better in larger tanks.

Mystery snail eggs are some of the largest and most noticeable. These clutches are very dense and laid at or above the waterline on the aquarium glass.

Assassin
- Scientific name: Anentome helena
- Maximum size: 3 inches
- Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
- Reproduction: Sexually
- Pest: No
Assassin snails are another popular aquarium snail species in the hobby due to their usefulness (video from The Dave). As their name implies, they are predatory snails that will attack and eat other snails. This is very useful for controlling pest snail populations. Unfortunately, this also means that they’ll leave problematic algae alone.

Assassin snails are one of the bigger species of snail and need a larger minimum tank size. They have a bright brown and yellow swirled shell that provides color to the aquarium while serving a purpose. This helps them blend into the substrate, where they will burrow and bury themselves until ready to feed.

As for freshwater snails, assassin snails are the least likely to overpopulate an aquarium as they need a sexual partner and lay eggs one at a time. Though they’ll kill most snail species and even possibly dwarf shrimp, they’ll mostly leave larger ones alone.

Assassin snail eggs are singular and hard to see. They are most often laid on the aquarium glass in translucent sacs.

Nerite

Best Algae Snail

Horned Nerite Snail

Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

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- Scientific name: Neritina spp.
- Maximum size: 1 inch
- Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
- Reproduction: Sexually
- Pest: No
Nerite snail species are probably the best snail to have in both the freshwater and saltwater aquarium. These snails are great cleaners, stay relatively small, and have attractive yellow and brown swirled shells.

The best thing about Neritina species is that they need brackish or saltwater conditions to reproduce. This makes it impossible for nerite snails to overpopulate a freshwater tank, leaving them to focus on cleaning.

Still, it is very common for females nerite snails to lay eggs in the freshwater aquarium. These nerite snail eggs will look like small white capsules on the underside of driftwood, rocks, and plants. However, they will not hatch if the water never becomes saline.

Snail Eggs

If you introduce any of the freshwater snails on this list into your aquarium, you’re bound to find snail eggs. Whether these eggs are fertilized and hatch will depend on the species of aquarium snail you’re dealing with. It is safe to say that ramshorn snail and mystery snail eggs will all be fertilized and turn into a bunch of baby snails.

First, you need to be able to identify what aquarium snail eggs look like. Then, you can deal with removing them and controlling snail populations.

What Do Freshwater Aquarium Varieties Look Like?

Freshwater snail eggs are easy to identify but difficult to find.

Snails lay their eggs in safe areas that are hard to reach or out of sight. This means under the leaves of live plants, driftwood, and even rocks, though sometimes snails will lay eggs right at the waterline. Looking for snail eggs is especially important when bringing new live plants into the aquarium as they is easy to miss, causing a snail infestation.

For the most part, freshwater snail eggs look the same no matter the species of snail. Snail eggs are laid in a clutch. Each egg clutch is filled with individual eggs safely packed within a transparent gelatinous sac. This is in contrast with nerite snails that lay individual eggs in a line.

These individual infertile eggs is blue, pink, or creamy and are slightly transparent. Once they become fertilized eggs, they will turn darker in color and have observable dark and brown spots across the individual egg. If the eggs go unfertilized, they will not change in color or appearance.

How Long Do They Take To Hatch?

Again, how long it takes for snails eggs to hatch will depend on the species. In general, freshwater snail eggs will hatch in between 2 to 4 weeks after being fertilized.

Water parameters, especially water temperature, will greatly influence how quickly eggs hatch. However, there aren’t many benefits to speeding up the process as snails are easy to breed.

If several weeks pass and your baby snails have yet to hatch, then there is a chance that something went wrong or they were never fertilized. At this point, the unfertilized eggs may be removed or left in the tank for other fish and invertebrates to eat.

Removing From Your Tank

As mentioned before, many hobbyists struggle with snail infestations. Having too many snails is not always a good thing as there start to be more disadvantages than benefits.

But how do you know if you should remove snail eggs from your aquarium or not?

Unless you’re breeding snails for a reason, like for feeding predatory fish, snail eggs should always be removed from the aquarium. After the first pair of snails, the population growth becomes exponential, which can quickly get out of hand.

Snails help will algae up until a point. After that, they create large amounts of waste that take away from other livestock and can even damage plants if they weigh too much. The problem is that snail eggs are hard to find and you’re left with catching and destroying hundreds of baby snails, which definitely doesn’t feel great to do. This is why we recommend removing the eggs before they get to that point.

Here are the best ways to remove freshwater snail eggs before they get the chance to hatch.

Manual Removal

The best way to remove snail eggs from your aquarium is by manual removal. This is very easy to do especially if the eggs are on the side of the aquarium glass.

Simply use a thin card or razor blade to separate the clutch from the glass. Then you may squish them or submerge them in vinegar.

If the snail eggs are stuck onto the side of driftwood or a rock, then you need to remove the affected piece. Both the driftwood and rock may be scrubbed or scraped of the eggs. The driftwood can also be boiled if need be.

Biological Solutions

Luckily, snail eggs are high in protein and are the preferred diet for many freshwater fish and invertebrates. Unfortunately, many of these egg-hungry species also enjoy eating adult and baby snails, which may cause some problems. As long as the snail is larger than the fish, there should be no problems for adult snails.

Some of these fish include:
- Loaches – yoyo loach (Botia almorhae), clown loach (Chromobotia macracanthus), kuhli loach (Pangio kuhlii)
- Corydoras – emerald green cory (Corydoras splendens), bronze cory (Corydoras aeneus), panda cory (Corydoras panda)
- Betta fish (Betta splendens)
- Gouramis – dwarf gourami (Trichogaster lalius), honey gourami (Trichogaster chuna), three spot gourami (Trichopodus trichopterus)
There are a few problems with getting rid of aquarium snail eggs through biological solutions, however. The main problem is that more fish require more room.

Most types of loach and Corydoras need to be kept in schools of six or more individuals. This is a large long-term addition to the aquarium for a temporary problem. If space is available and the setup is right, then these fish will happily live even when the natural supply of snail eggs has run out.

The other problem with using a biological solution to treating snail eggs is that not all snails lay their eggs in the same areas of the tank. Loaches and Corydoras live on the bottom of the tank but your snail may choose to lay its eggs towards the top of the tank or out of the water completely.

Though these fish will surely take care of any eggs or baby snails near the bottom of the tank, it is up to the hobbyist to remove the eggs that are out of reach.

Remember that the assassin snail is also a good predatory species to control a large snail population.

Prevention

Of course, the best way to get snail eggs out of your aquarium is by never introducing them in the first place! This is easier said than done, though it is possible.

When picking out your clean-up crew, choose snails that use their time to eat algae and not to lay eggs. One of the best options of freshwater snail is the nerite snail as it checks both these boxes.

Observe and treat new live plants for aquarium snail eggs and baby snails. Some hobbyists choose to quarantine their plants just as they would for new fish or invertebrates. This is a lengthy process but is definitely the most effective way at preventing unwanted pests from entering the aquarium.

Otherwise, thoroughly go over the stems and leaves of the plants for transparent egg clutches. There are several dip options that can also be effective:
- A dip of 2-3 mL 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water
- A dip of 1:19 ratio of bleach to water
- A dip of potassium permanganate that has reached a dark pink or purple color when mixed with water
These dips is effective for removing not only unwanted snails, but also various types of bacteria, fungus, and parasites.

If you do not use any methods to prevent snails from coming into your aquarium, they will find their way in time.

Another great way to prevent snails is to best pest free plants. These plants are going to be tissue cultures and will be sold by specially retailers. Not all types of plants are available as tissue cultured though.

Final Thoughts

Snails are a necessary part of the freshwater aquarium ecosystem, but snail eggs are not. Many species of freshwater snail reproduce too quickly in the home aquarium, leaving tanks to be overrun. Luckily, there are a few types of snail that have slow reproduction rates or that can’t successfully reproduce in freshwater entirely.

If freshwater snail eggs do happen to enter the aquarium, then some consistent manual removal or biological intervention may help solve the problem.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
March 19, 2022
11 Best Plants For Betta Fish – Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist
Most people plant a betta tank to make it look good. That’s the wrong starting point. Bettas are display fish, but they’re also behaviorally complex animals that use their environment constantly. The plants you choose determine whether your betta rests comfortably at the surface, hides during stressful moments, and moves through the tank with confidence, or spends its time wedged in a corner or stressed near the filter output. Plants in a betta tank aren’t decoration. They’re infrastructure.

After 25 years in this hobby and time spent managing fish stores, I’ve set up more betta tanks than I can count. The ones that look stunning and produce genuinely healthy, active fish have one thing in common: the plants were chosen for function first, beauty second. This guide covers the 11 best plants for betta fish based on that standard.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

My go-to plants for betta tanks are java fern, anubias, and something floating: frogbit or water lettuce. Those three together cover every function a betta actually needs: broad leaves to rest on, mid-water structure to navigate around, and surface cover to feel secure near the waterline. I’ve seen bettas in bare tanks and bettas in planted tanks. The behavioral difference is not subtle. A well-planted betta tank produces a calmer, more active fish. At the stores I managed, the planted betta displays always drew the most attention, and the fish in them always looked better.

The Top Picks
Editor’s Choice

Java Fern

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Adaptable plant

Easy to care

Easy To Maintain

Anubias Nana

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Slow growth

Stately leaves

Budget Friendly

Marimo Moss Balls

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Cheap

Works great in small spaces
The best plant for a betta tank is java fern. It’s available everywhere, handles low light without complaint, tolerates the warm water bettas need, and its broad leaves give your fish an actual resting surface. Anubias is the runner-up: slower-growing, equally forgiving, and its larger varieties produce leaf surfaces big enough to hold a full-grown betta. The budget pick is marimo moss balls: low maintenance, fits any size tank, and does a solid job of absorbing ammonia and nitrate.

How We Selected These Plants
How We Selected These Betta Plants
1. Smooth leaves and stems: no sharp edges that damage betta fins
2. Low light tolerance: thrives without CO2 injection in basic betta setups
3. Surface or mid-water coverage: provides resting spots near the waterline
4. Betta compatibility: doesn’t create excessive flow resistance in the water column
5. Hardiness: survives in the warmer water temperatures bettas need (78-80°F)
What People Get Wrong About Betta Plants

The most common mistake is buying plants that look good in photos but are wrong for a low-tech betta setup. CO2-dependent plants like glosso, dwarf hairgrass, and most carpeting plants need high light and injected CO2 to stay healthy. Put them in a basic betta tank and they melt within weeks. The fish ends up with decaying plant matter releasing ammonia into the water, exactly the opposite of what you wanted.

The second mistake is ignoring the surface. Bettas are labyrinth fish. They breathe atmospheric air and spend a significant amount of time near the waterline. A tank with no floating plants or surface structure leaves a betta exposed and stressed in the area it uses most. I’ve seen bettas with no surface cover develop stress stripes and spend hours pressed against the glass near the filter output, trying to find shelter. Floating plants fix that immediately.

The third mistake is using plastic plants. Plastic edges tear betta fins. It’s that simple. If you can’t do live plants, use silk.

Hard Rule: A betta tank without surface cover is a betta tank with a stressed betta.

Should You Add Live Plants to Your Betta Tank?
Live Plants in a Betta Tank: Right for You?
Add Live Plants If

You want to reduce stress behaviors in your betta

Tank has any standard LED lighting

You want natural cover and hiding spots

You’re keeping a community betta tank and need visual breaks

Skip or Use Silk Instead

Very small tank under 3 gallons (plants need space to establish)

No light at all in the setup

You can’t commit to basic plant care (liquid ferts, occasional trimming)

You specifically want a bare, show-display setup
The 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish

Let’s go over the best plants for betta fish below. I included a video from our channel for visual learners. I go into further detail below. If you like our content, give us a like and sub on our YouTube channel.

1. Java Fern

Great For Beginners!

Java Fern

Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

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- Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus / Leptochilus pteropus
- Common Name: Java Fern
- Origin: Widely distributed in Southeast Asia
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Low-Moderate, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 64 – 82°F
- Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
Java Fern is my top recommendation for betta tanks because it covers everything. It tolerates low light, needs no CO2, handles warm water up to 82°F without issue, and its broad, elongated leaves give bettas a real resting surface they’ll actually use. I’ve had bettas park on java fern leaves like they own them. That’s the behavior you want to see.

Attach it to driftwood or rock with thread or super glue gel. Do not bury the rhizome in substrate, that kills it. Java fern is available at virtually every fish store and online supplier, so price is rarely an issue. This is the plant to start with if you’re new to live plants in a betta setup.

Mark’s Top Plant for Betta Tanks

Java fern is my number one betta plant, and it’s not close. It doesn’t need CO2, doesn’t care about your light intensity, tolerates betta temperatures without struggling, and produces leaves wide enough for a betta to actually rest on. I’ve recommended this plant to beginners for years. It’s never failed. Pair it with some floating frogbit for surface cover and you’ve built the foundation of a functional betta tank.

2. Anubias

Great Beginner Plant

Anubias Nana

Hardy, forgiving and easy to grow. The Anubias Nana is your ticket to the incredible hobby that is aquascaping!

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- Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana
- Common Name: Dwarf anubias, nana anubias, petite anubias
- Origin: Cameroon, equatorial West Africa
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 72 – 82°F
- Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
Anubias is a betta-specific favorite because of its leaf structure. The broad, smooth, waxy leaves are exactly what bettas look for when they want to rest. Bettas are notorious for using anubias as hammocks, sitting midwater on an anubias leaf near the surface is normal, healthy behavior. Anubias barteri produces the largest leaves, while Anubias Nana and Anubias Petite are better suited to smaller tanks.

One real caveat with anubias: it grows slowly, which makes it prone to algae on the leaves. If you notice green coating on the leaves, wipe them down manually or recruit a nerite snail or otocinclus if your tank size allows. Attach the rhizome to driftwood or rock, same rule as java fern, never bury it in substrate.

3. Marimo Moss Balls

Marimo Moss Balls
- Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
- Common Name: Moss balls
- Origin: Japan
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 72 – 78°F
- Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
One note of caution on marimo moss balls: their preferred temperature tops out around 78°F. That’s the low end of a betta’s comfort zone. They can survive at betta temps, but they won’t thrive long-term in tanks running 80°F and above. For a betta kept at 78°F, marimo works fine as a low-effort addition. For warmer setups, consider a different option.

The Marimo Moss Ball is technically algae, not a plant, but it behaves like one and does a solid job absorbing ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates. It grows at about 5mm per year, so maintenance is minimal. You can also cut them apart and mount the pieces on driftwood for a moss-like effect.

4. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

Low Tech Plant!

Cryptocoryne Wendtii

A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

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- Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii
- Common Name: Wendt’s water trumpet, Wendt’s cryptocoryne, Wendt’s crypt
- Origin: Sri Lanka, Asia
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Low-high, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 68 – 82°F
- Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
Cryptocoryne Wendtii is one of the best rooted plants for betta tanks. Unlike java fern and anubias, crypts go into the substrate, which helps fill in the mid-ground and lower levels of the tank. They grow at a moderate pace, come in multiple color variants (green, brown, red), and adapt to a wide range of light levels without complaint.

Fair warning: crypts sometimes melt when first introduced to a new tank. Don’t pull them out, the roots almost always survive and the plant regrows. This is normal adjustment behavior, not a sign that something’s wrong. Propagation is simple: cut new plantlets from the mother rhizome and replant.

5. Water Sprite

Water Sprite

Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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- Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
- Common Name: Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern
- Origin: Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Moderate 30-80 PAR (umols)
- Temperature Range: 72 – 82°F
- Flow Rate: Low
- CO2 Requirement: No
Water Sprite does double duty in a betta tank. Planted in the substrate, it grows quickly into a dense background plant that soaks up excess nutrients and keeps nitrates in check. Floated at the surface, it becomes a natural canopy that diffuses light and gives your betta the surface cover it needs. Either way works, and the plant is fast enough to actually outcompete algae for nutrients in a low-tech setup.

If you float water sprite, watch your lower plants. It shades aggressively once it spreads. Keep lower-level plants limited to shade-tolerant species like java fern and anubias. Propagation is simple: cut stems and replant.

6. Amazon Sword

Amazon Sword

A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

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- Scientific Name: Echinodorus amazonicus / Echinodorus bleheri / Echinodorus grisebachii
- Common Name: Amazon sword
- Origin: Brazil, South America
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: low-high, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 72 – 82°F
- Flow Rate: Low
- CO2 Requirement: No
Amazon sword plants work in betta tanks with one important caveat: tank size. Amazon swords grow large, sometimes reaching 20 inches tall in a mature setup. In a 5-gallon betta tank, an amazon sword will eventually dominate the entire space. In a 10-gallon or larger, it becomes an impressive centerpiece that provides genuine mid-tank cover and a sense of depth the fish will navigate around.

Keep in mind that amazon swords are heavy root feeders. Root tabs in the substrate will make a visible difference in growth rate and leaf quality.

7. Vallisneria

Vallisneria

One of the easiest background placement aquarium plants that can be kept. Provides excellent shelter for fish

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- Scientific Name: Vallisneria
- Common Name: Val, Eelgrass, Tape Grass, Jungle Val
- Origin: Africa, North America, South America, Asia, Australia, Europe
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: low-high, 40-200PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 59 – 86°F
- Flow Rate: Moderate, High
- CO2 Requirement: No
Vallisneria creates a dense jungle effect in the background of a tank. Its long, ribbon-like leaves reach the surface and sway in the current, which gives a betta structure to navigate through and breaks up line of sight, important in community betta setups where visual breaks reduce aggression.

The one compatibility issue with vallisneria and bettas is flow. Vallisneria prefers moderate to strong current; bettas prefer low flow. The fix is positioning: plant vals in the background behind the filter output and use floating plants or hardscape in the foreground to buffer the current before it reaches the open swimming area. That setup works well in practice.

8. Banana Plant

Banana Plant

A unique looking plant that can be used floating or attached to hardscape.

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- Scientific Name: Nymphoides aquatica
- Common Name: Banana Plant
- Origin: Southeastern United States
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Medium-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 68 – 81°F
- Flow Rate: Low, moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
The banana plant earns its spot for one specific reason: it sends lily-pad-style leaves to the surface. Those floating leaves become natural resting platforms right at the waterline, exactly where bettas want to be. The distinctive banana-shaped tubers anchor it to the bottom while the stems extend upward, giving your betta a direct route from the bottom of the tank to the surface. It’s a functional layout plant, not just a novelty.

Note that banana plants need medium to high light (100-250 PAR) to do well. They’re not for truly dim setups. Prune surface leaves occasionally to prevent them from blocking light to lower plants.

9. Java Moss

Java Moss

One of the easiest mosses to grow in an aquarium. Great for small fish and shrimp

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- Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
- Common Name: Java moss
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Low-High, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 64 – 86°F
- Flow Rate: Moderate
- CO2 Requirement: No
Java moss is underrated in betta tanks because people think of it as a shrimp plant. It’s actually a great betta plant too. Tied to driftwood or rocks, a dense clump of java moss creates a textured hiding spot that breaks up the visual monotony of a bare tank floor. Bettas explore it, hide behind it, and use it as cover during rest periods. It also softens the look of hardscape considerably.

Java moss handles a wide temperature range (64-86°F) and isn’t fussy about light. Java moss can be used in breeding setups as a spawning surface, which makes it useful if you’re ever planning to breed bettas.

10. Bucephalandra

Bucephalandra

Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

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- Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
- Common Name: Buce plant, Buceps
- Origin: Borneo, Southeast Asia
- Skill Level: Easy, moderate
- Light Level: Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 71 – 79°F
- Flow Rate: Moderate, High
- CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended
Bucephalandra is a premium plant for betta tanks. The leaves are smooth, rounded, and slow-growing, no fin damage risk, no aggressive growth to manage. It thrives at the low 40 PAR light level typical of most betta setups, and the wide variety of cultivars means you can find colors ranging from deep green to blue-green to near-purple. Attach it to driftwood or rock with super glue gel or thread; burying the rhizome kills it.

The main consideration with Bucephalandra is temperature: it prefers 71-79°F. At 80°F and above, growth slows considerably. It stays alive but won’t thrive. For betta tanks running at 78°F, it works well. For tanks running warmer, java fern is a safer choice.

11. Anacharis

Anacharis

Excellent as a food source and sucks up nutrients in an aquarium. One of the easiest freshwater plants to care for

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- Scientific Name: Egeria densa, Elodea densa
- Common Name: Anacharis, Elodea, Giant Elodea, Brazilian Elodea, Brazilian Water Weed
- Origin: South America, Brazil, Uruguay, Argentina, introduced widely
- Skill Level: Easy
- Light Level: Moderate-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
- Temperature Range: 50 – 77°F
- Flow Rate: Low
- CO2 Requirement: No
Anacharis is one of the hardiest aquatic plants in the trade, which makes it a solid beginner choice. It can grow rooted in the substrate or free-floating, soaks up nutrients aggressively, and is one of the few stem plants that gives meaningful nutrient competition to algae in a low-tech tank.

There’s one temperature caveat worth knowing: anacharis prefers cooler water, ideally under 77°F. For betta tanks running at 78-80°F, it will survive but won’t grow as vigorously. It’s not a top-tier pick for warm betta setups, but if you’re running 77°F or keeping a fish that tolerates it, anacharis is one of the most forgiving plants you can buy. Give it a try if you’re new to live plants, it’s hard to kill. Check out the full Anacharis care guide for more detail.

What Makes a Plant Right for a Betta Tank

Keeping aquarium plants with a Betta fish is different from planting a community tank. Bettas aren’t destructive and won’t eat your plants, but they have specific requirements that make some plants a much better fit than others.

Temperature

Bettas do best at 78-80°F. That narrows your plant options more than most people realize. Many popular aquarium plants, including anacharis and some carpeting species, prefer cooler water. Working with plants that tolerate warm water is non-negotiable in a betta setup. It also means algae growth is accelerated, so recruit compatible algae eaters or plan on more manual maintenance than you’d need in a cooler planted tank.

Low Light Requirement

Betta fish are not comfortable in high-energy, high-light planted tanks. High-intensity lighting stresses them. This makes bettas incompatible with competitive planted aquascape setups unless you use shading from driftwood, rocks, or floating plants to create dim zones. Stick to low light plants and you stay out of trouble.

Low Flow

Bettas are slow swimmers with large fins. Strong current exhausts them. Plants that prefer low flow, java fern, anubias, crypts, are natural fits. If you’re using vallisneria or other current-loving plants, position them near the filter output and use floating plants or hardscape to diffuse flow before it reaches the main swimming area. A sponge filter or spray bar on a canister is another good option in a betta tank.

Tank Size Matters for Plant Selection

Most bettas live in 5 gallon or 10 gallon tanks. In a 5 gallon, large background plants like amazon sword and vallisneria will take over quickly. Stick to compact options: anubias, java fern tied to small driftwood, java moss, and a handful of floating plants. In a 10 gallon, you have enough space to add one larger background plant and still maintain proportion.

Bettas Use Plants Functionally

Bettas love to rest on plants. They use floating plants as cover near the waterline. They navigate around mid-level structure and use dense planting clusters for temporary hiding during stressful periods. Thin-leaf grasses look good but don’t give a betta anything functional. Broad leaves and surface cover are what actually matter.

What Most Betta Plant Lists Miss
What Most Betta Plant Lists Miss
- Recommending plants that need CO2 injection or high light in a basic betta setup. Glosso, dwarf hairgrass, and most carpeting plants melt without pressurized CO2. They don’t belong on a betta plant list.
- Not mentioning that some plants have sharp or stiff leaf edges. Hardscape plants with rigid, pointed tips can catch and tear betta fins over time. Always run your finger along a leaf before placing it in the tank.
- Ignoring floating plants entirely. Bettas are labyrinth fish and spend significant time at the surface. A tank with no floating cover leaves the most-used area of the tank completely exposed.
- Not flagging temperature conflicts. Anacharis and several other commonly recommended plants prefer water under 76°F. That’s cooler than an ideal betta tank. These plants belong on a qualified list, not an unqualified one.
Live Plant Alternatives

Live plants are ideal, but they’re not for every keeper. If you can’t commit to plant maintenance or your setup doesn’t support live plants, here are the honest alternatives.

Silk Plants

Silk plants are the only acceptable artificial option for a betta tank. Plastic plants have rough or sharp edges that tear fins. Period. If you’re using artificial plants, choose silk. Marina Naturals makes a well-regarded silk plant line designed specifically for betta and fancy goldfish tanks.

Great For Delicate Fins!

Marina Naturals Plants

Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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Aquarium Rocks and Caves

Aquarium rocks work well as a backdrop in betta setups as long as they have smooth surfaces. Run your hand over any rock before adding it to the tank. Seiryu stone is popular for aquascaping and generally safe, but check the edges before placing it.

Betta caves are also worth adding. Bettas like enclosed hiding spots, and a coconut shell cave provides that without any risk of fin damage.

SunGrow Betta Caves

These Coconut shells are ideal Betta fish homes. Smooth to the touch, these will not damage your Bettas delicate fins

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Live Plants vs. Fake: What Actually Matters

This debate comes up constantly. Here’s the honest version.

Live Plants

Live plants filter nitrates, produce oxygen, compete with algae for nutrients, and create genuine behavioral enrichment for bettas. The difference between a betta in a bare tank and a betta in a planted tank is visible within days. That said, live plants require some commitment.

Pros
- Removes nitrates from the water
- Provides oxygen to the fish
- Source of behavioral enrichment for betta
- Looks natural in the tank
- Provides resting spots, hiding spots, and surface cover
Cons
- Rooted plants need appropriate substrate
- Increases tank maintenance (trimming, occasional fert dosing)
- Slow-growing plants can develop algae on leaves without a cleanup crew
Silk Decor

Silk plants offer the look of a planted tank without the maintenance. They provide hiding spots and surface texture for the betta to interact with. They’re a legitimate option if you genuinely can’t commit to plant upkeep.

The non-negotiable: no plastic. The frayed edges that develop on plastic plants over time will shred betta fins. Silk only.

Pros
- Looks natural
- Zero plant maintenance
- Provides shelter and visual structure for your fish
Cons
- Quality silk plants aren’t cheap
- No water quality benefit (no nitrate removal, no oxygen production)
- Plastic plants, the cheap alternative, are actively harmful to betta fins
FAQs

Do betta fish need plants in their tank?

No, but they benefit significantly from them. Plants provide hiding spots, resting surfaces near the waterline, and visual breaks that reduce stress. A betta’s behavior changes noticeably in a planted tank, they explore more, rest on leaves near the surface, and show fewer stress behaviors like glass surfing. Plants also help filter nitrates and oxygenate the water. Good options for low-effort planted betta tanks: java fern and anubias.

Are real plants good for betta fish?

Yes. Real plants help oxygenate the water, absorb nitrates, and create behavioral enrichment that keeps bettas active and healthy. A tank with live plants is almost always a healthier tank than one without, as long as the plants are properly chosen for low-tech betta setups.

Can I put a bamboo plant in my betta tank?

True bamboo is a terrestrial plant and will eventually rot underwater. What’s often sold as “lucky bamboo” or “aquarium bamboo” is actually Dracaena sanderiana. It can be kept with roots submerged and the stalks above the waterline. It will survive and help oxygenate the water, but it’s not a true aquatic plant. Keep the leaves out of the water and change the water regularly if you use it this way.

Are plastic plants safe for betta fish?

Plastic plants are non-toxic, but they’re not safe for betta fins. The edges on plastic plants, especially as they age, are sharp enough to catch and tear betta fins. Bettas with long, flowing fins are particularly vulnerable. Use silk plants if you want an artificial option.

What plants do betta fish like best?

Bettas gravitate toward floating plants and plants with broad, horizontal leaves, these give them resting surfaces near the waterline. Java fern, anubias, floating frogbit, and water lettuce all fit that profile. Thin-leaf grass plants look appealing but don’t provide the functional structure bettas actually use.

Do I need CO2 for plants in a betta tank?

No. None of the plants on this list require CO2 injection. All 11 grow well in low-tech betta setups with standard LED lighting and liquid fertilizer dosing. Avoid CO2-dependent plants (glosso, dwarf hairgrass, most carpeting species) in a betta tank entirely, they won’t survive the low-tech conditions and the CO2 equipment creates the kind of strong water movement bettas dislike.

Closing Thoughts

The right plants don’t just make a betta tank look good. They make it function like a real habitat. A betta with broad leaves to rest on, floating cover near the surface, and mid-tank structure to navigate will behave differently from one in a bare tank. More active. Less stressed. More interesting to watch. That’s the real value of plants in a betta setup.

Start with java fern and something floating. Those two cover the most important behavioral needs with the least effort. Build from there as you get comfortable. And if live plants aren’t for you right now, silk is a legitimate middle ground, just stay away from plastic.

Plants don’t just fill a betta tank. They complete it.
March 14, 2022

Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

Having worked with livebearers for over two decades, japanese Rice Fish are the most underrated nano fish in the hobby. Cold-tolerant, surface-dwelling, and available in multiple color strains.

Rice fish are the low-maintenance nano fish that most people overlook because they are not flashy enough. Their keepers know better.

The Japanese rice fish (Oryzias latipes) is a peaceful nano species that is becoming increasingly popular among aquarists. These fish are highly underrated in the hobby, being one of the hardiest coldwater nano fish choices.

Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

Japanese rice fish are genuinely underrated. They are cold-tolerant, peaceful, easy to breed, and available in stunning color strains that rival any nano fish in the hobby. After 25 years working with livebearers and nano species, these are one of the first fish I recommend to keepers who want a low-maintenance nano setup with real breeding potential. The fact that they are not better known in the U.S. hobby is more about marketing than merit.

ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner

Japanese rice fish are beginner-friendly, tolerating a wide range of temperatures including unheated tanks. They are peaceful, easy to feed, and one of the most prolific breeders in the nano fish world. An excellent choice for planted nano setups and outdoor container ponds in warmer climates.

Brief Overview of the Japanese Rice Fish

Scientific Name	Oryzias latipes
Common Names	Japanese rice fish, Japanese killifish, Medaka
Family	Adrianichthyidae
Origin	Japan, China, Vietnam, Laos, Taiwan, & Korea
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Moderate
Lifespan	2-5 Years
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	Midwater, Top
Minimum Tank Size	10 gallons
Temperature Range	61°F. 75°F
Water Hardness	5-25 dKH
pH Range	7.0. 8.0
Filtration/Water Flow	Low
Water Type	Freshwater, Brackish water
Breeding	Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed	Easy
Compatibility	Species-only tank or community tank
OK, for Planted Tanks?	Yes

Japanese Rice Fish Origins and Habitat

Japanese rice fish are small schooling fish that are native to Southeast Asia from eastern China and eastern Korea to Japan and Vietnam. Phylogenetic analysis has shown that there are actually 33 closely related species in the genus Oryzias.

The Japanese rice fish has a rich history in the aquarium hobby. They have been a favorite among Asian aquarists for centuries! These celebrated fish look amazing when viewed from above, which was important before glass fish tanks became available.

Rice fish are highly adaptable fish that are found in a variety of habitats like rice paddies and shallow rivers. They occur naturally in both freshwater, and brackish water where fresh and saltwater mix according to the tides. Check out the video above from my YouTube channel. There is more information on this post so let’s keep reading on!

What Do They Look Like?

The first thing you might notice about rice fish is that they are almost transparent! They also have beautiful big blue eyes.

Japanese rice fish have been selectively bred to produce beautiful and fairly stable color varieties. There are hundreds of known rice fish breeds, but the following types are most accessible in the hobby.

Pink Medaka Rice Fish

This variety is one of the most colorful ricefish available in the hobby. The Pink Medaka Rice Fish have an orange-pink body color that brings life to any fish tank.

Galaxy Medaka

The galaxy rice fish has a whitish body color. Under good lighting, their scales shine like a rainbow. Like other rice fish varieties, these fish look almost transparent.

Red Cap Medaka

This stunning color form of the Japanese rice fish has an orange/red crown and back that merges into its pearl-colored body. This combination of color contrasts amazingly with their bright blue eyes.

Yokihi Medaka Rice Fish

The Yokihi medaka is a rare breed with beautiful deep orange coloration.

Other Ricefish Species

Javanese Medaka Rice Fish

The Javanese rice fish (Oryzias javanicus) is actually a different species from the Japanese rice fish. These beautiful little fish are from more tropical areas and are suitable for heated tropical fish tanks. It is told from the Japanese rice fish by its deeper body shape and pointed tail fin.

Woworae Medaka Rice Fish

The woworae, or Daisy’s blue rice fish (Oryzias woworae) is one of the most colorful tropical Asian medakas in the genus Oryzias. This awesome little nano species wows fishkeepers with its bright orange body trim and pectoral fins. The males, in particular, have a beautiful blue glowing body color, although both sexes boast bright blue eyes.

How Big Are They

Medaka are very small fish that reach a maximum length of between 1 and 1.4 inches. Their small size and hardiness make them great fish for nano tanks.

How Long Do They Live?

Rice fish, like most nano species, are not particularly long-lived fish. With good care, however, these fish can live for as long as 5 years. The most important factors that affect the longevity of your fish are:

Water quality
Water temperature and parameters
Feeding
Disease & stress prevention

Reality Check

Rice fish are surface dwellers and active swimmers, but they are slow-moving compared to danios or rasboras. This makes them easy targets for nippy tank mates. In a tank with fast, competitive fish, rice fish may struggle to get enough food at feeding time. They thrive best when they are the most active fish in the tank, not competing against species that outpace them.

Fish Temperament and Activity Level

Japanese ricefish are relatively active little fish that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. It is best to keep your ricefish in a group of at least 8.

They are not shy if kept in a comfortable environment and will be found schooling together in an open area of the tank outside of the current created by your filter. Rice fish are very peaceful, so you don’t have to worry about any bad behavior in a community fish tank.

Interestingly, the hardy and adaptable nature of these fish have made them a popular model for scientific research and education. Believe it or not, they were the first vertebrate species to be bred in space!¹

What Are Good Tank Mates for Them?

Japanese rice fish are very peaceful creatures that get along great with other species of fish in a community tank. They are very small, so it’s important to avoid larger fish that might see them as dinner.

Choosing fish that are similar or the same size is the best way to avoid any disappearances, but there are other factors you need to consider when planning a peaceful community.

Firstly, Japanese ricefish are cold water fish, so they should not be kept in water temperatures higher than the mid-70s. They may survive in a tropical setup, but their lifespan will probably be reduced, so keep them on the cooler side.

The fact that they thrive in cooler water temperatures is actually a real bonus for aquarists looking to set up a cold water community tank. Let’s take a look at some of the freshwater fish species that you can keep with medaka.

Best Tank Mates

Least Compatible Fish for Companions

Bettas
Pufferfish
Angelfish
Tiger barb
Discus and other fish that require high water temperatures
African cichlids
Oscars

What Do They Eat?

Ricefish are not very picky when it comes to diet. The most important factor to consider is their small size.

Ricefish is fed a diet of dried prepared foods like pellets, granules, or flakes. Flakes can easily be crushed up, but harder foods like pellets need to be very small.

Rice fish are said to be omnivorous, which means they are both animal and plant eaters. Small insects and other tiny animals are an important component of their diet, and these should be provided as a supplement to keep them in great health. This is also very important to bring your ricefish into top breeding condition. A good staple food to try would be Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula.

Great For Nano Fish

Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

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Here are a few great supplementary frozen and live foods that you can provide:

Blood worms
Brineshrimp
Daphnia
Grindal worms
Small vegetables

How Much and How Often to Feed Them

Aquarists often make the mistake of overfeeding their pets. This can result in obesity, and more importantly, reduced water quality. So how do you know how much food to provide?

Feeding them more than once a day is a great tip. Providing a small amount that they can finish in just a minute or so will prevent any uneaten food from sinking to the bottom or getting sucked into your filter.

If your medaka fish are colorful, growing, healthy, and active, you know you’re keeping them well fed!

Hard Rule

Never keep rice fish in water above 75F (24C) long term. They are a cold to subtropical species, and sustained tropical temperatures shorten their lifespan significantly. Keep them under 72F (22C) for best results. A standard tropical heater is not the right equipment for this fish.

Setting Up Your Tank

Japanese ricefish are very easy to care for and will thrive in a variety of setups. In fact, many aquarists keep these hardy freshwater fish outdoors in ponds and containers.

They will thrive in any setup that provides an environment that is similar to their natural habitat. In this section, you can learn how to set up a great tank for your rice fish, so let’s get started!

Tank Size

Rice fish are a nano species that can survive in aquariums as small as a few gallons or as big as outdoor ponds! I would recommend starting out with a tank of 10 gallons or larger, however, because this provides enough swimming space for a nice school while being stable enough to maintain water quality.

More important than the size of the tank is its cover. These little jumpers can easily escape out of an open aquarium, so make sure it has a secure lid.

Aquarium Plants

Rice fish absolutely thrive in a planted aquarium. They feel more comfortable with floating plants on the water surface. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep medaka, without live plants, however.

You might think growing live plants requires special lighting, equipment, and soils, but that doesn’t have to be the case.

Start out with a few easy aquarium plants like Java ferns and anubias to green up your aquarium. These plants will grow under standard aquarium lighting if tied to your hardscape.

Great For Beginners!

Java Fern

Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

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If you want to upgrade your tank into an amazing underwater aquascape, you can look at starting a tank with decent aquarium soil, good quality lights, and a pressurized CO2 injection system.

Substrate

A darker, natural colored substrate bring out the best color in aquarium fish, and also makes them feel more at ease. Any aquarium-safe substrate is used, however, since ricefish will not spend much time at the bottom of the tank.

If you’re setting up a planted aquarium, starting out with a quality aquarium soil will provide the best results. Alternatively, a well-rinsed sand or gravel substrate will work great.

Decor

Arranging some rocks or driftwood in the aquarium is a great way to make a natural environment for all the fish, and a more attractive aquarium for you to look at too. Be sure to use clean, aquarium-safe materials and place them carefully to prevent any damage to the glass.

Water Quality

Keeping the water clean and safe is the next priority after setting up a great tank for your ricefish. The tank should be fully cycled before introducing the fish. Check out this article if you’d like to learn more about the aquarium cycle and why it’s so important.

Let’s take a look at how to keep your cycled aquarium safe and healthy for your fish.

Filtration

Many aquarists will tell you a filter is not essential for keeping ricefish. I recommend good filtration for all aquariums just because they are so effective for maintaining the nitrogen cycle, aerating the water, and of course, filtering out particles and impurities in the water.

A simple sponge filter works great, but if you plan on keeping many fish or a community setup, consider upgrading to a canister filter. Both of these filter types create very little flow, which is ideal for these freshwater fish that prefer living in calm water.

Water Parameters

One of the great things about ricefish is how hardy and adaptable they are. Chances are, the temperature in your home is very comfortable for them, and this means most keepers don’t need aquarium heaters.

Here are the most important water parameters that you should maintain for your rice fish:

Water Temperature: 61°F. 75°F
pH: 7 – 8
Hardness: 5-25 dKH
Ammonia: 0 ppm
Nitrite: 0 ppm
Nitrate: < 20 ppm

Aquarium Maintenance

Keeping your aquarium clean and healthy is the most important thing you can do for your ricefish. Here are some of the steps you’ll need to take:

Perform a regular water change every week or two
Suck up uneaten aquarium fish food and waste from the substrate with your gravel vac
Clean your aquarium glass with an algae scraper when necessary
Rinse out your filter media with old tank water on a regular basis

Test Tank Conditions

The only way to really know if your water parameters are suitable for your ricefish is by testing your water regularly. This will also tell you if your maintenance schedule is up to scratch.

Testing your water is easy with an aquarium test kit. These kits come in liquid or strip form and are easy (and fun) to use.

Breeding

Rice fish are easy to breed in the home aquarium. Read on to learn how (I’ve also provided a video from Aquaviva below)!

Sexing

Of course, you’re going to need both male and female ricefish if you want them to reproduce. But how do you know which sex they are? Here’s what to look for:

Adult female rice fish are larger than males
Females often carry eggs on their anal fins
Males tend to be more colorful
Males have a small bump on the body in front of the anal fins
Male ricefish also have longer rays in the dorsal and anal fin

Getting Ricefish Ready to Breed

Conditioning your fish is very important since unhealthy ricefish will produce fewer eggs, or they might not reproduce at all. Feed your fish a healthy diet of frozen and live food before you plan on breeding them to increase your success rate.

The Breeding Process

Once the female is in breeding condition, she will lay eggs every day for several weeks or even months. The male fertilizes them and then the adhesive eggs are deposited on fine-leaved plants like Java moss.

Spawning mops made from green wool or synthetic fibers can also be used to simulate a live plant.

Caring For Fry

The fertilized eggs will hatch after 2 weeks or so. The fry will need to be fed infusoria or liquid fry foods due to their small size. Live plants and the tiny animals that grow on them can provide a great natural food source too.

The fry are vulnerable to larger fish at this age, which is why spawning them in a dedicated spawning tank is the safest option. The fry grow quickly, however, and can reach maturity in less than 6 months.

Health and Disease

Japanese rice fish are very hardy, but there is always a chance that your fish may develop health problems. Read on to learn more about what to look out for.

Evaluating Your Ricefishes’ Health

The easiest way to assess the health of your fish is to observe their physical characteristics and their behavior. Fish that are hiding, breathing rapidly, or have lost all of their usual colors are showing signs of stress.

Flashing against the substrate, floating, or sinking are other common signs of distress. Observing your fish often will help you pick up problems early, and allow you to notice changes over time.

Common Ricefish Health Issues

Fungal infections
White spot disease
Fin rot

Where To Buy

You don’t have to travel to Japan to get your own beautiful medaka rice fish. Sure, they aren’t always the easiest fish to find at your local pet store, but in today’s world of online fish stores, that’s no problem at all! You can click the link below to check out the variety of rice fish available for sale by our partners.

Japanese Rice Fish

Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

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Frequently Asked Questions

What do they eat?

Japanese ricefish are not fussy when it comes to food. Feed them a regular diet of flakes or micro pellets. Providing live foods like baby brine shrimp and micro worms is a great way to keep them in perfect health.

Are ricefish aggressive?

Rice fish are not aggressive at all. These peaceful nano fish are great community tank mates.

Why are they called ricefish?

Rice fish get their name from their habit of living in rice paddies. These are shallow swamps where the rice plant is grown.

Are ricefish the same as killifish?

Ricefish may look and act a lot like killifish but they are not all that closely related. Genetic research has shown that ricefish are in the Adrianichthyidae family while killifish are in other families like the Aplocheilidae and Fundulidae.

How long do ricefish live?

You can expect your ricefish to live for a few years if you provide it with the right care. Their expected lifespan is anything from 2 to 5 years.

Who Grows Most With This Fish

Japanese rice fish suit planted nano tank keepers and anyone interested in breeding a prolific, low-demand species. If you want a fish that adds activity to a 10-gallon planted setup, handles room temperature without a heater, and will breed readily in a well-planted tank, rice fish are one of the best options in the hobby. They are also an excellent choice for outdoor container ponds in temperate climates during summer months.

Is the Japanese Rice Fish Right for You?

Good Fit If:

You want a peaceful, low-maintenance nano fish for a planted 5 to 20-gallon tank
You can keep water temperatures in the cool-to-subtropical range (64 to 75F / 18 to 24C)
You are interested in breeding and want a species that reproduces readily in a well-planted setup
You want to explore color morphs and selective breeding in a small-footprint species

Avoid If:

Your tank runs at standard tropical temperatures (78 to 82F) — rice fish do not thrive at those levels long term
You keep fast, nippy, or aggressive species that will outcompete them at the surface
You want a bold, colorful centerpiece fish — rice fish are subtle and social, not showpiece swimmers

Closing Thoughts

Medaka rice fish are kept everywhere from Japan to space! It’s a shame that these coldwater nano fish aren’t better known, but fortunately, they have become more accessible all over the world in modern times.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

March 12, 2022

The 4 Major Types of Coral: A Reefer’s Practical Guide

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

The number one mistake I see new reef hobbyists make is starting with SPS corals. They walk into the store, see a colorful Acropora frag, and buy it because it’s affordable and looks cool. Six weeks later it’s dead and they don’t know why. SPS corals require a mature, stable system. They expose every flaw in your water chemistry and your tank management habits. If parameters swing, SPS will tell you immediately. Soft corals and beginner LPS are the right starting point, and there’s nothing wrong with staying in that zone for a year or two before pushing into SPS territory. Also worth saying: your parameters don’t need to be perfect. They need to be stable. Stable mediocre parameters beat swinging perfect numbers every single time. I’ve seen thriving SPS tanks running slightly off-spec chemistry. I’ve also seen pristine numbers on paper and dead corals in the tank. Consistency is what corals need.

If your parameters are not stable, this coral will not survive the first month. Corals do not die from wrong numbers. They die from unstable numbers. The difference between a thriving reef and a dying one is consistency, not perfection.

Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

Key Takeaways

There are four main coral categories in the reef hobby: soft corals (easiest), LPS (intermediate), SPS (advanced), and NPS (niche/advanced).
Do not start with SPS corals. They require a fully mature, stable system and will die in a tank that isn’t ready for them.
The 6-month rule: wait at least 6 months before adding any coral, and 12 or more months before attempting SPS.
Corals engage in chemical warfare with each other. Spacing and coral placement matter more than most beginners realize.
Aquacultured corals are the best choice for most hobbyists: healthier, cheaper, hardier, and no acclimation stress from wild collection.
SPS corals are not just demanding in water chemistry. They also need high PAR lighting and high flow. The equipment investment is real.
Fragging is part of the culture. It’s how hobbyists share, trade, and build collections affordably. Start learning it early.

What Exactly Is Coral?

Corals are animals. Not plants, not rocks. They belong to the phylum Cnidaria, which contains over 11,000 species including jellyfish, gorgonians, and anemones. More specifically, corals fall in the class Anthozoa, further divided into two subclasses that define the two main groups of aquarium coral:

Octocorallia: Eight-tentacle corals including most soft corals (leather corals, gorgonians, star polyps)
Hexacorallia: Six-tentacle corals including stony corals (SPS and LPS), zoanthids, and mushroom corals

All corals have specialized stinging cells called cnidocytes. These are the same cells that make jellyfish sting. In corals, they serve two purposes: capturing food from the water column and defending territory against neighboring corals. That territorial chemical warfare between coral types is something you need to plan around in a reef tank. Corals that grow toward each other will sting each other. Some of those stings cause irreversible tissue damage overnight.

Most photosynthetic corals have a symbiotic relationship with microscopic algae called zooxanthellae. These algae live inside the coral tissue and produce food through photosynthesis, sharing the energy with the coral. In exchange, the coral provides shelter and nutrients. When a coral is stressed by temperature swings, poor water quality, or insufficient lighting, it expels its zooxanthellae. The coral turns white. This is coral bleaching. Without zooxanthellae, the coral starves unless conditions improve quickly enough for it to reabsorb new algae. Many bleached corals do not recover.

The 6-Month Tank Maturity Rule

Before you add any coral to a new tank, the system needs to be biologically mature. That means a complete nitrogen cycle, stable parameters measured consistently over multiple weeks, established populations of beneficial bacteria, and ideally some natural pod and microfauna populations building up in the rockwork.

For soft corals and hardy LPS, 6 months is a reasonable minimum. For SPS, most experienced reefers recommend 12 months or more. This is not an arbitrary rule. SPS corals react instantly to parameter instability. New tanks cycle, swing, and settle. During that process, an SPS coral will die. Waiting until your tank is genuinely stable is the single most reliable way to improve coral survival rates.

The common mistake is treating coral addition as an early milestone. It’s not. It’s a late-stage decision in tank development.

Avoid These Coral Mistakes

Starting with SPS corals in a tank under 12 months old (they will die)
Placing corals without accounting for chemical warfare reach and sweeper tentacles
Buying wild-caught corals when aquacultured alternatives are available
Adding multiple coral types to a new reef without understanding PAR and flow requirements
Keeping soft corals directly adjacent to SPS (allelopathy from soft corals suppresses SPS growth)
Skipping a quarantine process for wild-caught or maricultured corals (parasites and pests are common)

ASD Coral Difficulty Tiers

Beginner (Soft Corals): Zoanthids, mushroom corals (Discosoma, Rhodactis), green star polyps, toadstool leather, pulsing xenia. Low light, low to moderate flow, tolerates parameter variation. Start here.

Intermediate (LPS): Hammer coral, torch coral, frogspawn, brain corals, Blastomussa, duncan coral, elegance coral. Moderate light and flow, stable alk/calcium required, sweeper tentacle spacing important.

Advanced (SPS): Acropora, Montipora, Pocillopora, Seriatopora, Stylophora. High PAR, high flow, tight parameter stability, Triton or Zeovit methodology in many tanks. At least 12 months of tank maturity recommended.

Expert/Niche (NPS): Sun corals, dendrophyllia, carnation corals, chili coral. No zooxanthellae. Daily target feeding required. Cannot survive on light alone. Niche setups only.

Soft Corals: Start Here

Soft corals belong primarily to the Octocorallia subclass and are the most forgiving group for beginner reefers. They don’t build hard calcium carbonate skeletons. Instead, they have flexible, fleshy bodies supported in some species by tiny internal skeletal elements called sclerites. This makes them fast-growing, easy to propagate by fragging, and tolerant of the parameter swings that new tanks experience.

Lighting requirements are low to moderate. Most soft corals do well under T5 fluorescent, basic LED setups, or even modest PAR outputs around 50 to 150. Water flow should be moderate and indirect rather than direct blast flow. Most soft corals thrive in random, pulsing flow rather than laminar streams aimed at the coral.

One critical point about soft corals: they engage in allelopathy. They release chemical compounds into the water that can suppress the growth of nearby corals, particularly SPS. Running activated carbon helps manage this. If you want to eventually transition to a mixed reef or an SPS-dominant system, be strategic about how many and which soft corals you include. A tank full of xenia and leather corals will create a chemical environment that SPS struggle in.

The best beginner soft corals include:

Zoanthids: Colorful, hardy, grow in colonies, propagate easily. Dozens of named morphs. Watch for palytoxin when cutting (wear gloves and eye protection)
Mushroom corals (Discosoma, Rhodactis): Extremely tolerant of low light and moderate parameters. Some of the best beginner corals available
Green star polyps: Fast-growing mat coral. Nearly impossible to kill once established. Can overgrow other corals, so give it its own rock island
Toadstool leather coral (Sarcophyton): Hardy, substantial presence, and one of the easiest leathers to keep. Periodically sheds a waxy layer, which is normal
Pulsing xenia: The coral that moves. Its rhythmic pulsing is one of the most distinctive visual features in the reef tank. Grows fast and can take over if not managed

Mark’s Pick: Best Beginner Coral

Zoanthids. They come in more color varieties than almost any other coral group, propagate by fragging easily, grow into striking colonies, and tolerate the imperfect water conditions that new tanks inevitably have. If you’re new to reefing, a handful of zoa frags will give you an early win and make your tank look good while the system matures. Start there. Move to hammer and torch corals when your parameters are steady. Build toward SPS when you’re genuinely ready.

LPS Corals: The Intermediate Layer

Large polyp stony (LPS) corals belong taxonomically to the Scleractinia order, the same as SPS, but their care requirements are significantly less demanding. Their large, fleshy polyps cover most of the underlying calcium carbonate skeleton, which gives them more visual presence and a different aesthetic than either soft corals or SPS. Many LPS are considered “meatier” corals that benefit from supplemental target feeding with mysis shrimp or coral-specific foods.

LPS corals require stable alkalinity and calcium for skeletal growth, moderate lighting (PAR of 100 to 250 for most species), and careful placement due to sweeper tentacles. Euphyllia species like torch, hammer, and frogspawn extend sweeper tentacles at night that can sting and damage neighboring corals. Give LPS adequate spacing, at least 4 to 6 inches from neighboring corals, and watch for nighttime expansion when placing them.

Euphyllia species also exhibit cross-compatibility. Hammer and frogspawn are actually the same species (Euphyllia ancora and Euphyllia paradivisa) and can be placed closer together than either can to torch corals (Euphyllia glabrescens). Mixing torch corals with other Euphyllia types results in stinging and tissue recession. This is one of those placement details that most beginners learn after losing a coral to it.

Popular beginner-to-intermediate LPS corals include:

Hammer coral (Euphyllia ancora): Hammer-shaped fleshy tips, moderate requirements, stunning movement in flow
Torch coral (Euphyllia glabrescens): Long, waving tentacles, one of the most sought-after LPS. Keep separate from other Euphyllia
Duncan coral (Duncanopsammia axifuga): One of the easiest LPS, fast-growing, tolerates moderate flow and lower light
Blastomussa coral: Small, compact polyps, tolerates lower flow and light, excellent beginner LPS
Brain corals (Favites, Favia, Platygyra): Encrusting growth form, moderate requirements, steady growth in a mature system

SPS Corals: Advanced Territory

Small polyp stony (SPS) corals are the most demanding category in the reef hobby. They require the highest water quality, the most stable parameters, the strongest lighting, and the most flow. In exchange, they provide the most dramatic long-term visual transformation of any coral category. A mature SPS reef is genuinely one of the most impressive things you can build in this hobby.

The primary parameter targets for SPS-dominant systems are tight: alkalinity 8 to 9.5 dKH with minimal swing, calcium 400 to 450 ppm, magnesium 1250 to 1350 ppm, nitrate below 5 ppm (some successful SPS reefs run near zero), phosphate 0.03 to 0.08 ppm. The exact numbers matter less than the stability of those numbers. A daily swing in alkalinity from 7 to 10 dKH will cause SPS tissue recession faster than a sustained alkalinity of 7.5 dKH will. Stability is the priority.

SPS corals also need high PAR. Most branching species like Acropora and Pocillopora want 250 to 400+ PAR. Encrusting species like Montipora can do well at lower PAR values around 100 to 200. Lighting equipment for a serious SPS tank is a real investment. T5 hybrid setups and high-output LED systems from established brands are the standard. Budget LED fixtures that don’t hit adequate PAR are one of the most common causes of SPS failure.

Genuinely beginner-friendly SPS species include:

Montipora capricornis: Plating encrusting growth, more forgiving than most SPS, good entry point for first SPS attempt in a mature tank
Seriatopora hystrix (birdsnest coral): Thin branching, fast-growing, more tolerant of moderate parameters than Acropora
Stylophora pistillata: Compact branching, hardy for SPS, good indicator species for overall tank health

Acropora is the pinnacle of SPS reefing and genuinely belongs in a system with at least 12 months of stable operation, established dosing or calcium reactor, and a keeper who tests parameters at least twice a week. Don’t start there.

NPS Corals: The Niche Category

Nonphotosynthetic (NPS) corals do not contain zooxanthellae. They cannot produce food from light. They survive entirely by capturing food from the water column, which in nature means a constant supply of planktonic organisms flowing over them. In a home aquarium, that means you need to provide target feedings multiple times per day.

The sun coral (Tubastraea species) is the most commonly available NPS coral and the least difficult in this category. Its brilliant orange or yellow polyps only fully extend when food is present, which is one of the more spectacular feeding displays in the reef hobby. Training a sun coral to open for feedings requires consistent food introduction at the same time daily. Most keepers use a small container or dome to isolate the coral during feeding so food doesn’t disperse through the tank.

Other NPS species like carnation coral (Dendronephthya) and chili coral are significantly harder. Carnation coral has one of the lowest survival rates of any coral sold in the hobby. It requires near-constant feeding of specific particle sizes and extremely stable parameters. It is beautiful. It’s also almost always dead within 3 to 6 months in anything but an expert-level dedicated NPS system. Do not buy carnation coral unless you have specifically built a system around it.

Coral Chemical Warfare and Placement

Corals compete for space on natural reefs and they bring those competitive strategies into your tank. There are two main ways corals fight each other: physical contact through sweeper tentacles and nematocysts, and chemical allelopathy through compounds released into the water.

Physical contact aggression is the more obvious of the two. Torch corals extend sweeper tentacles that can reach 6 inches (15 cm) or more at night. Brain corals extend mesenterial filaments that digest tissue on contact. Favia and Favites corals send out digitative mesenterial filaments that can sweep several inches beyond their visible skeleton. Any coral within range of these weapons will show tissue recession at the contact point.

Chemical allelopathy is less visible but often more damaging over the long term. Leather corals and some soft corals release terpenoids and other compounds that suppress the immune response and growth of nearby corals, particularly SPS. This is why full SPS tanks often avoid leather corals entirely, or run only small quantities with heavy skimming and activated carbon to pull the chemicals out of the water column. Activated carbon replacement every 4 to 6 weeks is standard practice in mixed reefs for this reason.

Placement principles to follow:

Place LPS away from other corals by at least 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm) accounting for maximum tentacle extension at night
Keep Euphyllia species separated by type: hammer/frogspawn can be near each other, but keep torch separated
Soft corals should not be directly adjacent to SPS frags or colonies
Place SPS high and toward the flow for the PAR and circulation they need
Place LPS mid-tank with moderate, indirect flow
Place soft corals and mushrooms lower in the tank where flow and PAR are reduced

Fragging Culture

Fragging is the practice of cutting a coral into smaller pieces, called frags, for trading, selling, or expanding a colony in the same tank. It’s one of the foundational practices of the reef hobby and a primary driver of how hobbyists build their coral collections affordably.

Most soft corals can be fragged with simple scissors or a razor blade. LPS corals require a band saw or similar cutting tool to section the calcium carbonate skeleton. SPS corals are fragged with coral cutting tools or small bolt cutters that snap branches cleanly. All fragging should be done with clean tools, protective gloves (especially for zoanthids, which contain palytoxin), and the frag immediately attached to a frag plug with reef-safe gel glue.

The local reef club or online reef community frag swap is one of the best ways to build a diverse coral collection. Frags from established home reef systems are often healthier than store-bought wild-caught specimens because they’re already adapted to captive conditions. Buying from other hobbyists also gives you the lineage and care history of the coral, which store-bought specimens rarely provide.

Wild-Caught vs. Maricultured vs. Aquacultured

Where your coral comes from affects its health, its acclimation success, and the environmental impact of your purchase.

Wild-caught corals are collected directly from natural reef ecosystems. They carry parasites, hitchhikers, and the stress of long shipping. They require thorough quarantine and careful acclimation. They’re more expensive than alternatives and carry the highest environmental impact. Wild-caught is rarely the best choice when alternatives exist.

Maricultured corals are grown on ocean-based coral farms in their natural environment, then harvested. They’re more sustainable than wild collection and support local reef economies. The acclimation challenge is still present because they transition from natural conditions to a home aquarium. Expect some adjustment period and quarantine.

Aquacultured corals are the best option for most hobbyists. They’re grown entirely in captivity, fully adapted to aquarium conditions, free of wild reef parasites, competitively priced due to scalable production, and carry no wild collection environmental impact. Aquacultured frags from domestic facilities are the default recommendation for any beginner or intermediate reefer.

Coral Category Comparison

Category	Lighting	Flow	Feeding	Tank Maturity	Difficulty
Soft Corals	Low-Moderate (50-150 PAR)	Low-Moderate	Photosynthetic; optional supplemental	6 months min	Beginner
LPS Corals	Moderate (100-250 PAR)	Moderate, indirect	Photosynthetic; target feeding beneficial	6-12 months	Intermediate
SPS Corals	High (250-400+ PAR)	High, random	Photosynthetic; trace element dosing critical	12+ months	Advanced
NPS Corals	Not required (shade preferred)	Moderate, consistent	Daily target feeding required	12+ months	Expert/Niche

FAQs

What coral should I start with in a reef tank?

Zoanthids, mushroom corals, or green star polyps. These are the most forgiving soft corals available, tolerate the parameter variation of newer tanks, and propagate easily so you can build a colony from a single frag. Start here for at least 6 months before moving to LPS, and 12 or more months before attempting SPS.

Why do my corals keep dying?

The most common causes are parameter instability (especially alkalinity swings), insufficient tank maturity, wrong placement for the coral’s light and flow requirements, and chemical warfare from neighboring corals. Test your water parameters with a reliable kit or ICP test. Consistent parameters matter more than hitting specific target numbers exactly.

How long do I need to wait before adding coral?

At minimum 6 months for soft corals and hardy LPS. Twelve or more months before adding SPS. This isn’t a rule hobbyists like to hear, but it’s based on how reef systems actually stabilize. Early coral additions in new tanks fail at significantly higher rates than those added to mature systems.

Can soft corals and SPS be kept together?

Yes, but with planning. Soft corals release chemical compounds that can suppress SPS growth. Keep soft corals from dominating the tank, run activated carbon consistently, skim efficiently, and provide adequate spacing. Many successful mixed reefs include both, but it requires active management of the tank’s chemical environment.

What is the easiest SPS coral?

Montipora capricornis (plating Montipora) and birdsnest coral (Seriatopora hystrix) are the most forgiving SPS. They tolerate slightly more parameter variation than Acropora and are good first SPS corals for a tank that has been running for 12 months with stable chemistry. Still require high lighting and flow compared to LPS, but are the entry point to the SPS world.

Are NPS corals hard to keep?

Yes. They’re some of the most demanding corals in the hobby. Sun corals are the most manageable NPS species, but all NPS require daily target feeding. Species like carnation coral have extremely poor survival rates in typical aquarium setups and belong only in dedicated NPS systems built around their feeding requirements.

Closing Thoughts

Coral reefing is a long game. The hobbyists who succeed are the ones who let their tank develop, learn the chemistry, start with appropriate corals for their system’s age, and resist the urge to push into SPS before the tank is ready. The ones who fail are usually the ones who stock too early, choose corals that don’t match their system, or underestimate how much parameter stability matters.

Start with soft corals. Master stability. Move to LPS when your parameters are genuinely consistent over months. Consider SPS when your tank has been running well for over a year and you’re ready for the equipment investment and the tighter management it requires. There’s a thriving reef at every level of this progression. You don’t have to rush to the next category to enjoy the hobby.

For quality aquacultured coral frags and reef supplies, check Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both prioritize tank-raised and aquacultured specimens and are reliable sources for corals that are adapted to captive conditions.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

March 11, 2022

Flame Angelfish Care: What Every Reefer Should Know Before Buying

The flame angelfish is one of the most visually striking dwarf angels you can put in a reef tank. that bright orange-red body with black vertical bars is genuinely hard to beat. In my experience, they’re also one of the more commonly impulse-purchased reef fish, and that’s where trouble starts. The big thing people overlook is the coral-nipping risk. Like most dwarf angels, flame angels can develop a taste for soft corals and LPS, and once they start it’s nearly impossible to stop. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep them in a reef, but it does mean you need to go in with realistic expectations and a plan. Here’s everything I know about keeping them successfully.

The flame angelfish is reef safe until it decides it is not. That decision is permanent.

Species Overview

Scientific Name	Centropyge loricula
Common Names	Flame angelfish, flaming angelfish, flame angel
Family	Pomacanthidae
Origin	Country – Pacific Ocean
Diet	Omnivore
Colors	Reds, yellows, oranges, purples, blacks
Care Level	Intermediate
Temperament	Semi-Aggressive
Minimum Tank Size	70 gallons
Max Size	4 inches
Temperature Range	76. 82 degrees F
pH Range	8.0. 8.4
Salinity	1.025 or 35 PPT
Reef Safe	With caution
Available As Tank Breed?	Available

Origins And Habitat

As one of the most colorful fish in the entire saltwater aquarium hobby, the flame angelfish comes from the tropical waters of the Pacific Ocean. These marine fish have a very wide natural range, taking to the shallow lagoons and reefs of tropical island ecosystems, like the Great Barrier Reef. Flame angels are highly dependent on the reef for food and shelter and rarely venture deeper than 60 meters in depth.

Interestingly, these dwarf angels form harems with one male for every 2-6 females. Like most other saltwater fish that form harems, flame angelfish are hermaphrodites. This means that all flame angels are born with male and female reproductive organs, though their external appearances are nearly identical; this can make it difficult to form harems in the reef tank setting.

As environmental and social changes occur, the largest and most colorful flame angelfish will assume the position of the male in the harem; this could be caused by a sudden death of the previous male or external factors, like resource availability or mating patterns.

In the aquarium, this sex change is unlikely to occur to your flame angelfish. As we’ll see, flame angels cannot be kept together due to various aquarium limitations, though some hobbyists have been successful. This makes for an otherwise stable environment where the flame angelfish does not need to adapt so drastically by changing its sex.

What Do Flame Angelfish Look Like?

Flame angelfish are one of the brightest and most appealing fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish have bold colorations and stay under 4 inches when fully grown, making them a suitable addition to the saltwater aquarium for the average hobbyist.

The flame angelfish has a compact body, with rounded dorsal and ventral fins. The overall color is a bright red, with several vertical black stripes along the side of its body. The middle portion of the body may be more orange or red than the rest, along with the caudal fin. The outer margins of the dorsal and anal fins may have electric blue or purple accents.

Color and intensity will greatly depend on the lights being used on the reef tank and the quality of diet.

The flame angelfish is a dwarf angelfish species. They have a very similar body shape and temperament to the closely related coral beautiful angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa). Though these fish may be smaller than their full-sized angel counterparts, they are still active fish that need a decent amount of aquarium space.

Coral Beauty Species

In comparison, coral beauties are slightly less desirable than the flame angelfish for the reef tank. However, they’re still one of the most beautiful fish available in the hobby and within the price range and care requirements that the average hobbyist can afford and provide.

Coral beauty angelfish have a more concentrated natural range throughout the Indo-Pacific. They grow to be about 4 inches and require a 70 gallon tank or more. They have a deep purple body with many thin black lines across the middle of their body; this area is lighter in color, ranging from dull yellow to intense oranges. Their behavior is nearly identical to that of the flame angelfish, though they can sometimes be shyer in personality.

It is also believed that coral beauties are slightly more reef-safe than their more colorful counterparts. Still, there is no guarantee that a coral beauty will leave all the corals in the tank alone for an indefinite period of time and caution is needed.

These dwarf angelfish have also been successfully captive-bred, which lessens environmental impact and increases overall hardiness and availability.

Tank Requirements

Though small, the flame angelfish can be more challenging to keep than the average community fish. This is largely due to their level of activity, green-based diet, and semi-aggression.

At the bare minimum, dwarf flame angels need 70 gallons or more. For many years, these reef fish were believed to be a nano tank fish species that could fit into small aquariums under 40 gallons. As hobbyists began to understand their true needs, it was revealed that they are very active swimmers that heavily rely on the live rock for food and protection.

Like larger angels, flame angelfish are algae grazers. They will spend their time weaving in and out of the live rock, looking for food. Unfortunately, this also sometimes includes sessile invertebrates which don’t make them completely reef-safe, though we’ll discuss more later.

Otherwise, flame angels don’t require much. They can be slightly more sensitive to changes in water parameters than other fish species but will show their best colors when happy.

Are They Easy To Keep?

Yes, flame angelfish are relatively easy to keep. They’re not as hardy as other community fish, like clownfish, but they don’t require any special water parameters or diet.

That being said, flame angelfish should not be attempted as one of the first additions to a new aquarium. Not only is water quality subject to change during this time, but this stocking sequence can also affect your fish’s ability to adapt to new additions in terms of aggression.

Are They Prone To Marine Ich?

For the most part, flame angelfish aren’t any more prone to contracting marine ich than any other saltwater fish. For some reason though, most flame angelfish in-store have often already been affected.

With any fish, it is always recommended to do a quarantine period before adding the new fish to the display aquarium. Allowing 2-4 weeks of seclusion will let illnesses arise in a safe environment where medications can be freely dosed.

If your fish does show signs of ich or another parasite while in your display aquarium, it is still strongly recommended to start the quarantine process and dose medications accordingly.

Marine Ich Symptoms & Cures

It can be very scary dealing with marine ich for the first time in the aquarium. These parasites are relentless and much more difficult to treat than their freshwater counterparts, which are not closely related at all.

Unlike freshwater ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), marine ich cannot be solved with simple water changes and water temperature adjustments. Instead, there is a pretty exact protocol that needs to be followed.

Marine ich is a type of parasite called Cryptocaryon irritans. The most obvious sign of ich is a sprinkled coating of small white specks that cover the entire body of the fish; these can be especially difficult to see under some aquarium lights and on lighter colored fish bodies.

Contrary to popular belief, these white spots are not actually the parasite, but a symptom instead; as the parasite digs into the skin of the fish, the body excretes a mucus that causes the signature ich-appearance. These spots might not always be visible as the parasite can internally infect gills. At this stage, the parasite is depending on the fish for survival.

After this stage, the parasite drops off and attaches to the substrate or another surface. These create daughter parasites that swim until they find another host. This means that ich can be transferred through aquarium water alone while in this life stage.

Other symptoms of marine ich include:

Heavy breathing
Discoloration
Lack of appetite
Flashing
Lethargy

The best way to prevent ich is by stopping it from entering the aquarium altogether. Purchasing from a reputable seller and a subsequent quarantine period will increase the chances of receiving a healthy fish on arrival that can be observed and treated for any given ailments.

If ich manages to enter the display aquarium, there are few options available to the hobbyist for treatment. All fish must be captured and transferred to a quarantine tank while the main display is left fallow for several weeks. Most prescribed medications are too strong for biological filtration, which could easily wipe out everything that’s living in the display.

Once in quarantine, there are a few courses of treatment that can be done for marine ich. In general, raising the temperature has little effect on saltwater fish suffering from ich. However, raising the temperature to about 81°F has shown to result in a shorter fallow period needed for the display. The freshwater dip method has also been proven to be ineffective.

Ich will not treat itself and medication is needed on top of a quality diet and stable water parameters. Some of the recommended medications are copper and chloroquine phosphate.

One of the least aggressive methods of treatment is hyposalinity. This involves lowering both the pH and salinity over the course of a few days to combat an ich infestation. While this method is very gentle on fish and can be successfully executed in the display aquarium, it can be very difficult to execute with precision.

This is mainly due to needing exact recordings of water parameters while keeping on top of freshwater top-offs and buffering the pH.

As mentioned before, flame angelfish can be hardy once established in the aquarium. Though they don’t have the thickest mucus protecting their skin from parasites such as ich, they are not the most susceptible either.

Temperament

You never know what you’re going to get when you bring home a flame angelfish (video source). In general, they are regarded as being a semi-aggressive species that might nip at other similar-looking species. This is especially true if hoping to keep the popular combination of flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish together.

Flame angels and coral beauties have successfully been kept together in the same aquarium, even in those that are probably too small. However, this pairing isn’t recommended unless the aquarium is over 200 gallons.

The problem is that flame angelfish are generally more aggressive than coral beauties, leaving one fish from this duo to be bullied. A larger tank will allow for territories to be farther apart, decreasing the chances of your fish interacting with each other; it also helps if the fish are added at the same time so that neither one has the upperhand.

In the wild, flame angelfish are regularly seen in harems. In the reef aquarium setting, very few hobbyists have had luck keeping more than one flame angel per tank.

In most cases, this would require a very large aquarium, well over 200 gallons. All members of the harem would then need to pick a dominant male, though this can be achieved if you group them together while they’re still young and have time to establish their sexes.

Are They Reef-Safe?

Flame angelfish are reef-safe with caution. This is neither a yes nor a no and results will vary from tank to tank.

There are times when flame angelfish are completely reef-safe, partially reef-safe, or not reef-safe at all. There is no way to know which one your fish will be until it’s too late. If you have any corals, especially soft corals and fleshy large polyp stony (LPS) corals, that you don’t want to lose, do not introduce a flame angel into the system.

But are there any corals that a flame angelfish will leave alone no matter what?

What Corals Are Safe With Them?

If you have a coral-hungry flame angel, then chances are that they’ve destroyed your zoanthid colony. For one reason or another, their favorite coral seems to be expensive zoanthids.

Unfortunately, there is no way to stop your fish from eating your corals as this change can literally happen overnight. However, there is a good chance that flame angelfish will leave harder corals, like small polyp stony (SPS) corals, alone as opposed to fleshier varieties.

To help deter your fish even more from going after your corals, feed regularly. This isn’t a foolproof solution but can help keep your fish interested in food other than your corals. Maybe try substituting new foods every now and then to really keep them guessing.

Tank Mates

One of the most popular flame angelfish tank mates is the coral beauty; there is no denying that the bright orange and electric purple of these two fish makes for an unparalleled combination in the home aquarium. Sadly, this pairing can only be achieved in larger systems.

If wanting to keep these two dwarf angelfish species together, a bare minimum tank size of 200 gallons is needed. Still, it is not unheard of for a more aggressive flame angel to harass and kill a coral beauty in these larger setups.

Otherwise, flame angelfish can hold their own against slightly more aggressive fish but might be too overpowering for more docile species. Good tank mates include:

Clownfish
Tangs
Gobies
Blennies
Sometimes other species of large angels

Pairing your flame angelfish with other angels is always tricky. As long as the two fish don’t look too similar, there is a good chance that the combination will work.

Remember that flame angelfish are not 100% reef-safe. They are very likely to pick at and devour soft coral polyps. Flame angelfish typically leave snails and hermit crabs alone but might take interest in small shrimp.

What Do They Eat?

As a species of angelfish, flame angels heavily rely on algae and other microscopic flora that can be found growing naturally on the rocks. Because of this, they are not recommended for new aquariums that have little to no established algae growth.

A happy flame angel can be seen weaving in and out of the live rock, picking at whatever they happen to come across. Just because flame angelfish are algae-eating fish does not mean that they will solve a pest algae problem. For algae problems, first combat unstable or poor water quality and then introduce better biological solutions, like a bristle tooth tang if tank size permits.

In order to keep their dwarf angelfish constantly fed, many hobbyists leave a piece of seaweed clipped to the side of the tank for regular feedings. In addition, live and frozen foods, like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, can regularly be given along with a high-quality marine fish flake or pellet. Flame angelfish will also enjoy algae flakes and pellets to meet their omnivorous needs.

Final Thoughts

Dwarf flame angelfish have always been a popular addition to the home aquarium, though their care requirements and needs have changed drastically over time. These beautiful fish need a decently sized aquarium with some attention to tank mate stocking. They will also do best when kept in a mature tank that has had time to grow enough algae to keep your angel fed.

And yes, a flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish pairing is possible. Tank conditions and individual personalities of fish need to be right to make this combination work, though.

March 6, 2022

14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot

Gouramis are one of the most misunderstood groups in the freshwater hobby. People buy a dwarf gourami because it is colorful and it fits in a community tank, and then it dies within six months and they have no idea why. There is a disease epidemic in imported dwarf gourami stock that has been documented for years, and most fish stores do not mention it. I am going to. If you want a gourami that actually survives long-term, there are better choices than the standard dwarf.

Not all gouramis are created equal. Some are peaceful centerpiece fish that thrive for a decade. Some will destroy everything in the tank. And one of the most popular species carries a viral disease in the majority of imported stock that kills it within a year.

The gourami you pick determines whether your community tank works or falls apart.

Here is what you actually need to know about 14 gourami species, including the disease warning nobody at the fish store tells you.

Key Takeaways

All gouramis have a labyrinth organ and must have access to the water surface to breathe air; blocking the surface is fatal
Dwarf gourami iridovirus (DGIV) is endemic in Southeast Asian fish farms; most imported dwarf gouramis carry it and die within a year
Honey gouramis are harder than dwarf gouramis and do not carry DGIV at the same rate; they are the safer beginner pick
Male gouramis of the same species will fight; keep one male per tank unless the setup is very large with dense cover
Giant and snakeskin gouramis look like beginner fish but require 200+ gallons as adults

What Are Gouramis?

Gouramis belong to the Osphronemidae family and originate in South and Southeast Asia. Over 130 species exist, with a wide range represented in the aquarium trade. They come in every size from the tiny sparkling gourami at 1.5 inches (4 cm) to the giant gourami at over 24 inches (60 cm).

The defining feature is the labyrinth organ. Gouramis evolved in oxygen-poor, slow-moving water and developed the ability to breathe air directly from the surface. This is not optional behavior. It is how they survive. In a tank, this means the surface must always be accessible. Floating plants that block the entire surface are a real risk. So is a sealed lid without a gap.

Gouramis also have modified pelvic fins that extend into long, whisker-like feelers they use to sense their environment. Males use them to investigate territory and other fish. Watching a gourami probe the tank with its feelers is part of what makes them engaging to keep.

Most species are bubble nest builders. Males construct nests at the surface from bubbles coated in saliva, then guard the eggs and fry aggressively after spawning.

Gourami Difficulty Tiers

Beginner-Recommended

Honey gourami, pearl gourami, blue/gold/opaline gourami, sunset gourami, moonlight gourami. Hardy, forgiving, accept a range of water parameters, community-compatible.

Intermediate

Sparkling gourami, kissing gourami, blue paradise, powder blue dwarf, flame dwarf, snakeskin gourami. Require more attention to male aggression, tank size, or specialized feeding.

Experienced/Avoid for Most

Giant gourami (200+ gallon commitment), licorice gourami (extreme soft water, live food only), standard dwarf gourami from imported stock (DGIV risk). These require specific conditions most hobbyists cannot provide consistently.

The Dwarf Gourami Iridovirus Problem

This needs its own section because most people never hear about it until their fish is already dying.

Dwarf gourami iridovirus (DGIV) is a megalocytivirus endemic in Southeast Asian fish farms, which is where essentially all dwarf gouramis in the hobby come from. Research published in aquatic disease journals has documented infection rates above 20 percent in imported shipments, and anecdotal reports from experienced hobbyists and retailers suggest the real rate is considerably higher.

The virus causes progressive immune system failure. Infected fish typically show color loss, swelling, lesions, and loss of appetite before dying. There is no treatment. The timeline from purchase to death is usually six months to a year, sometimes less.

This does not mean you cannot keep dwarf gouramis. It means you should buy from suppliers who source domestically or from reputable farms with disease management protocols, quarantine every dwarf gourami before adding it to a display tank, and have realistic expectations. A dwarf gourami that lives four to five years is a success. Many do not make it to two.

The honey gourami is the practical alternative. It does not carry DGIV at the same rate, it is equally peaceful and similarly sized, and it is genuinely harder in terms of water parameter tolerance. If you want a small, colorful gourami for a community tank, the honey gourami is the more reliable choice.

Avoid These Gourami Situations

Buying a standard dwarf gourami from an unknown Southeast Asian import source without quarantine
Keeping two male gouramis of the same species in a tank under 55 gallons (208 L)
Buying a giant gourami as a “centerpiece” without a plan for a 200-gallon (757 L) tank
Blocking the water surface with dense floating plants; gouramis need air access
Adding fin-nippers like tiger barbs to a gourami tank; their long feelers are a target

14 Best Gourami Types for Freshwater Aquariums

Species	Max Size	Min Tank	Temperament	Difficulty	DGIV Risk
Honey Gourami	2 in (5 cm)	15 gal (57 L)	Peaceful	Easy	Low
Sparkling Gourami	1.5 in (4 cm)	10 gal (38 L)	Peaceful	Easy	None
Licorice Gourami	1.5 in (4 cm)	5 gal (19 L)	Peaceful	Moderate	None
Pearl Gourami	4.5 in (11 cm)	30 gal (114 L)	Peaceful	Easy	None
Blue Gourami	5-6 in (13-15 cm)	35 gal (132 L)	Semi-aggressive	Easy	None
Kissing Gourami	8-10 in (20-25 cm)	75 gal (284 L)	Semi-aggressive	Moderate	None
Giant Gourami	20-28 in (51-71 cm)	200 gal (757 L)	Peaceful	Moderate	None
Powder Blue Dwarf	2.4-3 in (6-8 cm)	15 gal (57 L)	Peaceful	Moderate	High
Snakeskin Gourami	8-12 in (20-30 cm)	30 gal (114 L)	Peaceful	Easy	None
Gold Gourami	5-6 in (13-15 cm)	35 gal (132 L)	Semi-aggressive	Easy	None
Moonlight Gourami	6 in (15 cm)	35 gal (132 L)	Peaceful	Moderate	None
Sunset Gourami	4 in (10 cm)	15 gal (57 L)	Peaceful	Easy	None
Flame Dwarf Gourami	2.4-3 in (6-8 cm)	15 gal (57 L)	Peaceful	Moderate	High
Blue Paradise	3 in (8 cm)	20 gal (76 L)	Semi-aggressive	Moderate	None

1. Honey Gourami

Honey Gourami

One of the more peaceful gourami fish available in the hobby. Unique yellow coloration, only grows to 2 inches.

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Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
Temperature: 72-81°F (22-27°C)
pH: 6.0-7.5

The honey gourami is my recommendation for anyone who wants a small, colorful gourami for a community tank. It is genuinely peaceful, hardy enough to handle beginner water parameter fluctuations, and does not carry the iridovirus risk that plagues standard dwarf gourami imports. Males develop a deep golden-orange color when in breeding condition. This is the gourami I would send someone home with first.

2. Sparkling Gourami

Sparkling Gourami

A great gourami for nano tanks. Only grows to 1.5 inches.

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Scientific Name: Trichopsis pumila
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH: 5.0-7.5

The sparkling gourami is genuinely stunning in a planted nano tank. The iridescent turquoise on the body and fins catches light in a way that surprises people who do not expect much from a 1.5-inch (4 cm) fish. They are peaceful but do not keep them with shrimp. Those feelers are not just for sensing; sparkling gouramis hunt small invertebrates actively.

3. Licorice Gourami

Licorice Gourami

A small gourami that grows to 1.5 inches. Prefers to be housed in a planted tank.

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Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
Difficulty Level: Moderate (for beginners: difficult)
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons (19 L)
Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH: 3.0-6.5

The licorice gourami is one of the most beautiful fish in the hobby and one of the most demanding. It needs very soft, acidic water, live food daily (they reject flakes and pellets reliably), and a calm, species-appropriate setup. This is a specialist fish for experienced keepers who have a blackwater tank already running. It is not a beginner gourami despite its small size.

4. Pearl Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 4.5 inches (11 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
pH: 5.5-8.0

The pearl gourami is the most underrated gourami in the hobby. It is peaceful, genuinely stunning with its intricate pearl spotting and red-orange breast on males, and hardy enough for a beginner with a properly established tank. This is the gourami I would recommend as a centerpiece fish in a community setup over any dwarf variety. Up to ten years of lifespan. Takes a range of foods. Does not cause trouble. There is very little downside.

5. Blue Gourami (Three Spot)

Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 5-6 inches (13-15 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
pH: 5.5-8.5

The blue gourami is a color variant of the three-spot gourami, along with gold and opaline variants. Hardy and easy to keep, but males are semi-aggressive, especially toward each other and other labyrinth fish. One male per tank. The blue color and size make it a visible, active tank presence, but pair it with fish that can hold their own. Timid fish do not do well as tankmates.

6. Kissing Gourami

Scientific Name: Helostoma temminkii
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 8-10 inches (20-25 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons (284 L)
Temperature: 71-86°F (22-30°C)
pH: 6.0-8.0

The “kissing” behavior is not affection. It is a dominance display. Two kissing gouramis pressing their mouths together are establishing hierarchy, not bonding. This is important context because people buy two and expect them to be friends. They may or may not get along. At 8 to 10 inches (20-25 cm) they also need considerably more space than their typical retail tank size suggests, and they will eat soft-leaved plants.

7. Giant Gourami

Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
Difficulty Level: Moderate (tank size is the barrier)
Temperament: Peaceful (but will eat small fish)
Adult Size: 20-28 inches (51-71 cm), up to 18 inches (46 cm) in captivity typically
Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons (757 L)
Temperature: 68-86°F (20-30°C)
pH: 6.5-8.0

Giant gouramis are sold as juveniles at 3 to 4 inches (8-10 cm) and can fool people into thinking they are a reasonable aquarium fish. They are not reasonable for most hobbyists. They grow fast, they live 20 years, and they ultimately need a tank that most people do not have space or budget for. If you have that space and that commitment, they are genuinely personable fish that behave more like a large wet dog than a display animal.

8. Powder Blue Dwarf Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
Difficulty Level: Moderate (DGIV risk elevates this)
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches (6-8 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH: 6.0-7.5

A color variant of the standard dwarf gourami with the same DGIV risk. Beautiful electric blue color with red accents. Males can be territorial toward each other. The DGIV caveat applies: buy from a reputable source, quarantine before adding to a display tank, and understand the shortened lifespan risk. The honey gourami is the safer alternative for most keepers.

9. Snakeskin Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 8-12 inches (20-30 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L) as juveniles; needs 55+ gallons (208+ L) as adults
Temperature: 72-86°F (22-30°C)
pH: 5.8-8.5

The snakeskin gourami is possibly the most peaceful gourami species you can buy. The downside is that it grows to 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) and does not stay small. The 30-gallon (114 L) listed minimum is for juveniles. Adults need considerably more space. May eat smaller fish and occasionally nibble on plants. Easy to care for otherwise.

10. Gold Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 5-6 inches (13-15 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
Temperature: 75-86°F (24-30°C)
pH: 5.5-8.5

Same species as the blue gourami, different color variant. Rich golden-yellow with marbling on fins and body. Same care requirements, same semi-aggressive male behavior. If you want the three-spot gourami’s hardiness with different aesthetics, the gold variant is a solid choice.

11. Moonlight Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichogaster microlepis
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 6 inches (15 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons (132 L)
Temperature: 77-86°F (25-30°C)
pH: 6.0-7.5

The moonlight gourami has less obvious color than most species on this list, but the silver-blue sheen at certain angles and the bright red feelers on males more than compensate. It does great in community tanks with other peaceful species. Pairs well with other peaceful gouramis as long as there is only one male per species.

12. Sunset Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
Difficulty Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 4 inches (10 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH: 6.0-7.5

The sunset gourami is one of the best community tank choices on this list. Golden orange coloration, peaceful toward tankmates and their own kind, and no inter-male aggression problems at the same scale as the dwarf gourami variants. Sometimes confused with the honey gourami sunset color form, so confirm labeling at the store.

13. Flame Dwarf Gourami

Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
Difficulty Level: Moderate (DGIV risk)
Temperament: Peaceful
Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches (6-8 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
Temperature: 72-82°F (22-28°C)
pH: 6.0-7.5

The flame dwarf gourami is a color variant of the dwarf gourami with solid golden-orange body and electric blue dorsal fin. Spectacular looking fish. Same DGIV risk as all dwarf gourami variants imported from Southeast Asia. If you buy one, source carefully and quarantine.

14. Blue Paradise Gourami

Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
Difficulty Level: Moderate
Temperament: Semi-aggressive
Adult Size: 3 inches (8 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
Temperature: 50-71°F (10-22°C)
pH: 6.0-8.0

The blue paradise gourami’s tolerance for cooler water (down to 50°F/10°C) makes it unique in this group. It does not need a heater in most room-temperature homes. Aggressive around breeding, and males fight. Keep one male with two or more females. Do not add other labyrinth fish to a tank with a breeding male paradise fish.

Tank Setup

Tank size requirements vary enormously across this group. A sparkling gourami in 10 gallons (38 L) is well-housed. A giant gourami in that same 10 gallons is a welfare problem. Know the adult size of your chosen species before buying the tank.

Gouramis evolved in slow-moving, heavily vegetated water. Strong current stresses them. Aim for gentle filtration. A sponge filter works well for smaller species. For larger tanks, aim the power filter outlet at hardscape to break up the current. A spray bar attachment on a canister filter is the cleanest solution for bigger setups.

Plants are important. Gouramis feel more secure with plant cover and will show better color in a well-planted tank than in a bare or minimally-decorated setup. Good choices: java fern, anubias, cryptocoryne, vallisneria. Floating plants work well too, but leave significant open surface area for air breathing.

The surface access point bears repeating. If a gourami cannot reach the surface to breathe, it drowns. This is not a slow process. Make sure your lid has a gap, especially where the water sits close to the surface in heavily planted tanks.

Behavior and Feeding

Most gouramis accept a wide range of foods. Flake or pellet food as a base, supplemented with frozen and live foods, works for most species. More specialized species like the licorice gourami and chocolate gourami require live or frozen food exclusively, and they are not the fish to start with.

Males are territorial toward other males of the same species. This is not a rule you can work around with clever tank design in smaller tanks. One male per species per tank in anything under 55 gallons (208 L). Larger tanks with heavy planting and many sight breaks can sometimes accommodate two males of the same species, but this requires close monitoring.

Gouramis use their feelers constantly. Watching a gourami investigate new decorations, test water movement, or probe tank mates is part of the appeal. They are interactive fish that notice their environment in ways many community species do not.

Breeding

Most gouramis are bubble nest builders and reasonably easy to breed once conditioned. A shallow breeding tank of 6 to 8 inches (15-20 cm) depth, slow filtration from a sponge filter, and water in the low 80s°F (around 28°C) is the standard setup. Feed live and frozen foods to condition the pair before attempting to spawn.

The male builds the bubble nest and guards it obsessively after spawning. Remove the female at this point because the male will become aggressive. Once the fry are free-swimming (usually 3 to 4 days after hatching), the male is typically removed as well, or the fry risk being eaten.

Feed fry infusoria or commercially available liquid fry food initially, transitioning to baby brine shrimp as they grow.

Tank Mates

Peaceful gouramis like the honey, pearl, sparkling, and moonlight species pair well with smaller schooling fish, corydoras, otocinclus, and other peaceful community species. Avoid fin-nippers. The long feeler fins are an obvious target and tiger barbs in particular will shred them.

Semi-aggressive species like the blue, gold, kissing, and paradise fish are better paired with fish that are similarly sized and not easily intimidated. Danios, barbs that are not notorious fin-nippers, and larger tetras work well.

Do not mix multiple labyrinth fish species in smaller tanks. Male bettas and male gouramis in the same tank is a common mistake. Both species see the other as competition, and the outcome is predictable.

FAQs

What is the best gourami for beginners?

The honey gourami is the best starting point. It is peaceful, hardy, manageable in a 15-gallon (57 L) tank, and does not carry the iridovirus risk associated with standard dwarf gourami imports. The pearl gourami is the best choice if you want a larger centerpiece fish.

Why does my dwarf gourami keep dying?

The most likely cause is dwarf gourami iridovirus (DGIV), a viral disease endemic in Southeast Asian fish farms. Infected fish develop immune failure, show color loss and lethargy, and typically die within 6 to 12 months of purchase. There is no cure. Source from reputable suppliers, quarantine before adding to a display tank, and consider the honey gourami as a longer-lived alternative.

Can gouramis live with bettas?

Generally no. Both are labyrinth fish and both males are territorial. A male betta will see a male gourami as a rival and vice versa. The result is stress, fin damage, or escalating conflict. In a very large, heavily planted tank some keepers have made it work, but it is not a combination to recommend as a starting point.

How many gouramis can I keep together?

For peaceful species, a group of females and one male works well in a properly sized tank. Two males of the same species in a tank under 55 gallons (208 L) usually leads to aggression. Honey and pearl gouramis are more tolerant of their own kind than dwarf or blue gourami variants.

Do gouramis need surface access to breathe?

Yes, absolutely. Gouramis have a labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe atmospheric air directly. If the water surface is blocked by floating plants or a sealed lid without a gap, they suffocate. Always ensure there is open surface area and an air gap between the water and the lid.

Closing Thoughts

Gouramis are some of the most varied and rewarding freshwater fish you can keep. The pearl gourami is genuinely one of the hobby’s underrated gems. The honey gourami is the practical beginner choice that outlasts the more commonly purchased dwarf gourami at most fish stores.

If you take nothing else from this article, take the DGIV warning seriously. The dwarf gourami iridovirus is real, it is common, and it is the reason so many of these fish die within a year of purchase. Shop from better sources, quarantine your fish, or choose a species that does not carry the same risk.

Mark’s Pick

If I am setting up a community tank and want a gourami centerpiece, I am choosing the pearl gourami every time. It is genuinely beautiful, peaceful with virtually everything, lives up to a decade, and does not come with the disease risk of the dwarf variants. Honey gourami is my second choice and the better pick for anyone who wants something smaller. Both are available at Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish and ship reliably.

Where to Buy Gouramis

Gouramis are widely available, but quality varies significantly by source. For disease-reduced stock and healthier fish overall, online specialty retailers are often more reliable than chain fish stores that order from mass importers.

Flip Aquatics – Reliable stock, quality fish, good selection of gourami species
Dan’s Fish – Healthy fish, good availability across freshwater species including gouramis

March 1, 2022

12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth
Barbs are the fish that expose bad stocking decisions. Not because they are evil, but because they tell the truth about your tank. Keep tiger barbs in a group of four in a community tank with slow, long-finned fish, and your fish store will see you again in a week. Keep them in a group of ten with the right tank mates, and you have one of the most active, entertaining tanks in the hobby. The difference is not the fish. It is the keeper.

The real problem with barbs is not aggression. It is misinformation at the point of sale.

Barbs are a versatile group of freshwater aquarium fish. In this article, I will introduce 12 outstanding types you can keep, explain which ones work in community tanks and which ones do not, and give you the honest take on the group size issue that no one talks about clearly enough.

Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

I have sold thousands of tiger barbs over the years managing fish stores. The ones that came back as problem fish all had one thing in common: the customer bought six or fewer. When you understock a barb school, their social energy has nowhere to go internally, and it redirects outward at every long-finned fish in the tank. Cherry barbs are a completely different story. I keep them in planted tanks and they are genuinely peaceful. My top recommendation for a community tank has always been cherry barbs; for a dedicated barb display, tiger barbs in a group of ten-plus. Do not mix those two approaches in one tank and expect peace.

What Are Barbs?

Barbs are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. There is a huge number of wild fish species in this group and they range through Asia all the way to Southern Africa. Barbs are solidly built fish, usually with strong fins and well-developed scales.

They range in size from just an inch or so to large species measured in feet. Most popular aquarium species are 2 to 6 inches long. Many barb fish do well in cooler water temperatures, making them a solid choice for unheated aquariums. They are active, social schooling fish. That activity is what makes them fascinating in a well-planned tank and a nightmare in a poorly planned one.

Hard Rule: Barbs need groups of 6 or more. Under 6, they become a problem fish. That is not a guideline. It is the rule.

What People Get Wrong About Barbs

The biggest misconception in the hobby is that tiger barbs are inherently aggressive fish. They are not. They are schooling fish with social dominance hierarchies. In a small group, that energy has nowhere to go except toward the other fish in the tank. Slow-moving fish with long fins become targets. This is not malicious behavior. It is a natural schooling dynamic being redirected because the group is too small to contain it.

The second mistake is treating all barbs as one category. Cherry barbs are genuinely peaceful community fish. Tiger barbs and rosy barbs are semi-aggressive in any group under eight. Black ruby barbs sit somewhere in between. Lumping them together and saying barbs are semi-aggressive is the kind of generalization that sends customers home with the wrong fish.

The third mistake is tank mate selection. Bettas, angelfish, and fancy guppies do not belong in a tiger barb tank. Period. I have seen that combination play out hundreds of times in twenty-five years. It never ends well for the long-finned fish.

The Reality of Keeping Barbs

A well-stocked barb tank is one of the most dynamic setups in freshwater fishkeeping. Constant movement. Social posturing within the school. Color that deepens as the fish mature and feel secure. Feeding time is genuinely entertaining. They charge the surface, they compete, they show off. It is not a relaxing tank. It is an active one.

The trade-off is that barbs are not forgiving of bad tank mate choices. They are also plant nibblers in some cases. Rosy barbs will sample soft-leaved plants. If you have a carefully aquascaped tank built around delicate plants, think carefully before adding rosy barbs. Cherry barbs, on the other hand, are excellent in planted setups and will not touch the plants.

Water changes matter. Barbs are active metabolically and produce waste proportional to that activity. A 20 percent weekly water change is the starting point. Keep nitrates under 20 ppm. Their color and behavior will tell you immediately when water quality slips. Pale color and reduced activity are warning signs.
Should You Keep Barbs?
Good Fit

Species-focused barb tank with a large school (10 plus)

Community tank with fast, short-finned tank mates

Active, high-energy display tank

Keeper who understands the group size requirement before buying

Avoid If

Your tank has bettas, angelfish, or long-finned fancy guppies

You plan to keep a group of fewer than 6

You want a slow, peaceful, low-energy community setup

Your aquascape uses delicate soft-leaved plants throughout
Top 12 Types of Barb Fish For Aquariums

Now that you know the real deal on barbs, here are 12 species worth knowing. To make selection easier, I have included the key facts you need: scientific name, difficulty, temperament, adult size, minimum tank size, diet, origin, temperature, pH, breeding difficulty, and planted tank suitability.
How We Ranked These Barb Species
1. Community compatibility: likelihood of nipping or aggression in a mixed tank
2. Group dynamics: how the species behaves in appropriate school sizes
3. Availability: findable at LFS or reputable online sources
4. Care difficulty: appropriate for beginner-to-intermediate hobbyists
5. Visual interest: what makes the species worth keeping
We have a video below from our YouTube Channel covering the top barb types in depth. If you find it useful, subscribe for new content every week.

1. Cherry

Cherry Barb

A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

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- Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Sri Lanka
- Temperature: 68 to 80°F (20 to 27°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 8.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Excellent
The cherry barb is the barb that actually belongs in a community tank. It is peaceful with virtually every similarly sized fish, it does not nip, and in a planted tank the males turn a deep red that rivals anything in the hobby. This is the one I recommend most often to hobbyists who want barbs but have peaceful tank mates.

Cherry barbs are my first recommendation for anyone new to the group. Easy to care for, forgiving of minor water parameter swings, and visually striking when kept in a school of eight or more against a dark substrate with live plants.

Mark’s Top Barb Pick

Cherry barb for community tanks. Tiger barb for a dedicated barb display. Those are the two clear winners, and they are not interchangeable. Cherry barbs are the fish I would put in almost any beginner community setup without hesitation. Tiger barbs in a group of ten-plus are one of the most entertaining displays in freshwater fishkeeping. Try to combine them in one tank and you will have a problem. The fish are not the issue. The stocking decision is.

2. Tiger
- Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 2 to 2.25 inches (5 to 5.7 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Sumatra, Borneo
- Temperature: 68 to 78°F (20 to 26°C)
- pH: 5.0 to 8.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible with robust plants
The tiger barb has earned its reputation as a fin-nipper, but that reputation is mostly the product of being kept wrong. In a group of eight to ten or more, tiger barbs direct their social energy inward. The hierarchy forms within the school. The nipping stays internal. Your other fish are left alone.

Keep fewer than six and you have a genuine problem fish. The school cannot contain its own energy. Long-finned tank mates like angelfish, bettas, and fancy guppies will get shredded. Do not put tiger barbs with long-finned fish under any circumstances, regardless of group size. That is a compatibility issue, not just a group size issue.

Tiger barbs come in several color forms: standard banded, green, albino, and platinum. All the same behavior. All the same group size requirement.

3. Gold (Chinese Barbs)
- Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 7.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: China, Laos, Taiwan, Vietnam
- Temperature: 61 to 75°F (16 to 24°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 8.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
The gold barb is often overlooked but it is one of the most reliable community barbs available. The golden morph that dominates the trade has highly reflective scales that catch the light in a way few fish at this price point can match. Like all barbs, keep them in a group of at least 6. A school of 10 against a dark substrate is genuinely striking.

Gold barbs tolerate cooler water down to about 61°F (16°C), making them one of the better options for an unheated room-temperature aquarium. Gold barbs are underrated. If you want an active, peaceful schooling fish that does not need a heater, this is one to consider seriously.

4. Rosy
- Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 2.5 to 3 inches (6 to 7.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh
- Temperature: 61 to 75°F (16 to 24°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 8.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible (will graze soft plants)
Rosy barbs are a deep-bodied, active species that comes in several varieties including long-finned forms. They are omnivores and will feed on soft plants, so a carefully aquascaped tank with delicate stems is at risk. That said, rosy barbs are one of the few fish that actively eat black brush algae (BBA), which makes them genuinely useful in a tank that struggles with that specific problem.

5. Denison
- Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 4 to 6 inches (10 to 15 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons (208 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: India (Kerala)
- Temperature: 59 to 77°F (15 to 25°C)
- pH: 6.5 to 7.8
- Difficulty to Breed: Advanced
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
The Denison barb (also called the roseline shark and red-line torpedo barb) is one of the most visually impressive fish in the freshwater hobby. A school of six of these in a large, well-filtered tank with good water flow is a genuine showpiece. They need excellent water quality and space to swim. This is not a beginner fish, but for an experienced keeper with the right setup, they are worth every bit of the investment.

6. Tinfoil
- Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
- Difficulty Level: Moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons (568 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, vegetables, and live/frozen foods
- Origin: Southeast Asia
- Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 8.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Advanced
- Planted Tank Suitability: No
The tinfoil barb is beautiful. It is also the most commonly impulse-bought fish that ends up in a tank that is completely wrong for it. At 12 to 14 inches (30 to 35 cm), it needs a minimum 150-gallon (568 L) aquarium, and honestly does better in a pond. They are peaceful and will not harass tank mates, but they will eat anything small enough to fit in their mouth. If you want to keep them, buy the tank first. Then buy the fish.

7. Odessa
- Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Myanmar
- Temperature: 61 to 77°F (16 to 25°C)
- pH: 6.5 to 8.5
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
The Odessa barb is one of the most visually striking small barbs in the hobby. Males develop a vivid red lateral band that intensifies during breeding condition. This is a species that is easy to overlook at the fish store when it is young and pale, but give it a few months in a good tank and the color transformation is remarkable. Keep them in a group of at least 6. They are peaceful in adequate numbers.

8. Five-Banded (Pentazona)
- Scientific Name: Desmopuntius pentazona
- Difficulty Level: Easy to moderate
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Southeast Asia (Malay Peninsula, Borneo)
- Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
- pH: 5.0 to 7.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
The five-banded barb is a peaceful, smaller barb that does well in a planted blackwater setup. It is not as commonly available as tiger or cherry barbs, but it is worth seeking out if you want a well-behaved barb for a biotope or specialized tank. The five distinct vertical bands make for an attractive fish in the right setting.

9. Checker (Checkerboard)
- Scientific Name: Oliotius oligolepis
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Indonesia (Sumatra)
- Temperature: 68 to 79°F (20 to 26°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 7.5
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
The checker barb gets its name from the bold checkerboard pattern on its flanks. It is peaceful, small, and well suited to a community planted tank. Not the most commonly available species, but worth looking for through specialty importers or online retailers.

10. Black Ruby
- Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
- Adult Size: 2 to 2.5 inches (5 to 6.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Sri Lanka
- Temperature: 68 to 80°F (20 to 27°C)
- pH: 5.5 to 7.5
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
The black ruby barb is also known as the purple-headed barb. In breeding condition, the males develop intense ruby red and near-black coloration that makes them one of the most dramatic small barbs in the hobby. Keep them in a group of at least 6 to prevent semi-aggressive behavior toward tank mates. The females show bold vertical stripes similar to tiger barbs.

11. Snakeskin
- Scientific Name: Desmopuntius rhomboocellatus
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
- Diet: Carnivorous lean, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: Borneo
- Temperature: 68 to 82°F (20 to 28°C)
- pH: 4.0 to 7.0
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate to advanced
- Planted Tank Suitability: Yes
The snakeskin barb (also called the rhombo barb) is one of the rarer barbs in the hobby and one of the most visually distinctive. The exotic boa-like markings are unlike anything else in the barb family. It thrives in a blackwater planted aquarium kept in a good-sized school. Not easy to find at typical fish stores, but worth sourcing from a specialist importer.

12. Panda (Melon Barb)
- Scientific Name: Haludaria fasciata
- Difficulty Level: Easy
- Temperament: Peaceful
- Adult Size: 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)
- Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
- Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
- Origin: India
- Temperature: 72 to 78°F (22 to 26°C)
- pH: 6.0 to 7.5
- Difficulty to Breed: Moderate
- Planted Tank Suitability: Possible
The melon barb (panda barb) is one of the most boldly patterned fish in the family. Three to five black bars on a body that ranges from peach through orange to red or even purple. The markings vary between individuals, which makes a school of them genuinely interesting to watch. Peaceful, easy to keep, and worth more attention than it typically gets.

Tank Setup

Setting up a tank for barbs is not complicated. They are hardy fish. But they are active fish, and that activity means they need space. Do not squeeze a tiger barb school into a 20-gallon (76 L) tank and expect good behavior. These are fast-moving, competitive fish. Give them room.

Substrate and Decorations

Natural hardscape elements like rocks and driftwood make barbs feel more secure. Keep decoration moderate. Barbs need open swimming lanes. A dark-colored substrate brings out the best color in almost every species in this group.

Lighting and Filtration

Barbs have no special lighting requirements. Most prefer dimmer conditions. Standard aquarium lighting works fine. For filtration, aim for 4 to 6 times the tank volume per hour. Most barbs prefer moderate flow. Denison barbs are the exception: they come from fast-moving river headwaters and need stronger flow and higher oxygen levels.

Heating

Many popular barb species tolerate temperatures into the low 60s Fahrenheit (around 17°C), which makes them one of the few active schooling fish that work in unheated aquariums. Check the specific temperature range for your chosen species. They vary more than most hobbyists realize.

Live Plants

Barbs do well in heavily planted tanks with floating plants to reduce light intensity. Most barb species are omnivores, so soft-leaved carpet plants and tender stems are at risk. Tough plants like Java fern, Anubias, and Amazon swords hold up well. Cherry barbs are the best barb for a planted tank if plant safety is a priority.

How To Care For Barbs

Barbs are relatively easy to care for once the stocking decisions are correct. Feed quality food. Maintain excellent water quality. Keep them in proper group sizes. Those three things cover the majority of what you need to do.

Aquarium Maintenance

Start with a 20 percent weekly water change. Keep nitrates at 20 ppm or below. Barbs are active and produce proportional waste. A good filtration system is not optional. Siphon substrate while draining. Clean glass as needed. Their behavior and color will signal any water quality issues before your test kit does.

Behavior and Feeding

Barbs are social fish that establish internal dominance hierarchies. That competition is the source of their energy. In a large enough school, it stays internal. In a small group, it redirects outward. This is not a personality defect. It is how schooling fish work.

Feed a staple diet of quality fish flakes or pellets. Supplement with live and frozen foods for best color and condition. Barbs are not picky eaters. Variety is better than overfeeding a single food.

Breeding

Barbs are egg scatterers that will eat their own eggs. Set up a separate breeding tank. Condition a small group with high-quality live and frozen foods like daphnia and bloodworms. Lower the pH slightly. Add tannin sources like oak leaves to trigger spawning behavior. Use a layer of round pebbles as an egg trap. Remove adults immediately after spawning. Eggs hatch in 24 to 48 hours.

Tank Mates

Tank mate selection for barbs is not about finding fish that tolerate barbs. It is about not setting up a situation where nipping is inevitable. The rules are simple and they do not have exceptions.

Tank Mates for Peaceful Barb Species

Peaceful barbs like cherry barbs are compatible with most similarly sized, active community fish. Good options include:
- Other peaceful barb species
- Otocinclus catfish
- Dwarf gourami
- Cory catfish
- Neon tetras and other active tetras
- Platys
- Danios
- Loaches
- Rasboras
Tank Mates for Semi-Aggressive Barb Species
- Other barbs (same or compatible species in adequate numbers)
- Clown loach
- Siamese algae eater
- Plecos
- Rainbow shark
- Mollies
Tank Mates to Avoid

These fish do not belong in a tank with semi-aggressive barbs under any circumstances:
- Angelfish
- Fancy guppies
- Goldfish
- Bettas
- Any large predatory species that will eat smaller barbs
Where To Buy

Common barb species like cherry barbs and tiger barbs are widely available at local fish stores. For less common species or for better quality stock, online retailers are often the better option. I recommend:
- Flip Aquatics for quality captive-bred stock and good selection
- Dan’s Fish for reliable online ordering
FAQs

Are barbs aggressive fish?

Most barb species are peaceful when kept in adequate group sizes. Tiger barbs, rosy barbs, and black ruby barbs are semi-aggressive, particularly when kept in groups of fewer than 6. In a school of 8 to 10 or more, their social energy stays internal and they leave tank mates alone. Cherry barbs, gold barbs, and Odessa barbs are genuinely peaceful community fish.

Which barb species are best for community tanks?

Cherry barbs are the top choice for a peaceful community tank. They are small, peaceful with virtually all similarly sized fish, and visually striking in a planted setup. Gold barbs and Odessa barbs are also good community options. Tiger barbs work in a community tank only if kept in groups of 8 to 10 or more and paired with short-finned, active tank mates.

What fish can live with barbs?

For semi-aggressive barb species, choose fast-moving, short-finned tank mates: danios, active tetras, cory catfish, loaches, and plecos all work well. Avoid bettas, angelfish, fancy guppies, and any fish with long flowing fins. For peaceful barb species like cherry barbs, the options expand significantly.

How many barbs should be kept together?

The minimum is 6. Ten or more is better for most species, and particularly important for semi-aggressive species like tiger barbs. A larger school redirects competitive behavior inward, away from tank mates. Smaller groups produce the fin-nipping, bullying behavior that gives barbs a bad reputation.

How many barb species are there?

FishBase lists over 1,680 species in the Cyprinidae family. Of those, around 20 to 30 species are commonly available in the aquarium trade. Tiger barbs alone come in several distinct color forms including standard banded, green, albino, and platinum. The variety in this group is one of the reasons it remains consistently popular in the hobby.
What Most Barb Articles Get Wrong
- Recommending tiger barbs for community tanks without addressing tank mate compatibility: the group size rule is only half of it. Long-finned fish are incompatible regardless of how many tiger barbs you keep.
- Treating all barbs as semi-aggressive when cherry barbs, gold barbs, and snakeskin barbs are genuinely peaceful. Lumping them all together does a disservice to the peaceful species.
- Understating tank size requirements. Active schooling barbs in adequate numbers need more room than a basic care chart suggests. A group of 10 tiger barbs does not belong in a 20-gallon (76 L) tank.
- Not explaining why underschooling makes nipping worse. The mechanism matters: barbs compete internally. Too small a group and that competition has nowhere to go except outward.
Final Thoughts

Barbs are not difficult fish. They are fish that demand honest stocking decisions. Get the group size right. Get the tank mates right. Give them space. Do those three things and you have one of the most rewarding, active, visually interesting setups in freshwater fishkeeping.

Get any one of those things wrong and barbs will tell you about it immediately, through the fins of everything else in your tank.

If you want one barb for a community tank without thinking too hard about it, buy cherry barbs. If you want a dedicated barb display that people stop and look at, build a tiger barb tank with ten or more fish and the right tank mates. Both setups work. Neither works halfway.

Have questions about your barb setup? Leave them in the comments below.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide, your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
February 28, 2022

Author: Mark Valderrama

Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

What Are Indian Almond Leaves?

What Do Indian Almond Leaves Do In The Aquarium?

1. Antifungal And Antibacterial Properties

2. Lower pH Levels And Soften Water

3. How Much Do They Lower pH?

4. Comfort Shy And Stressed Fish

5. Quarantine System

Can You Use Too Many?

How To Use

How To Make Extract

Are They Good For All Fish?

Wild Bettas

How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

Other Alternatives

Where to Buy

Final Thoughts

How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

Water Contamination

Overfishing

Habitat Loss

Invasive Species

How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

How long do they live in captivity?

Factors that affect Their Lifespan

1. Water Quality

3. Food

4. Handling

5. Tank Mates

FAQs

Can you touch them?

Final Thoughts

References

Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size

The Top 10 Sucker Fish Types

1. Otocinclus Catfish

2. Chinese Algae Eater

3. Bristle Nose Pleco

4. Siamese Algae Eater

5. Zebra Pleco

6. Sailfin Plecostomus

7. Trinidad Plecostomus

8. Spotted Sailfin Plecostomus

9. Peppermint Plecostomus

10. Tiger Plecostomus

What Are They?

Tank Setup

Substrate & Decorations

Lighting & Filtration

Heating

How To Care For

Aquarium Maintenance

Feeding

Breeding

Best Tank Mates

Tankmates to Avoid

Where To Buy

FAQS

Final Thoughts

Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them

What Are They?

What Do They Look Like?

Planaria In Aquarium? How Do They Get In

Are They Harmful To Fish?

How To Get Rid of Worms

Manual Removal Of Flatworms

Aquarium Vacuuming

Flatworm Traps

Chemical Treatment

New Fish And Invertebrates

Freshwater Angelfish

Gouramis

Tiger Barbs

Assassin Snails

Saltwater solutions

Other Options

Quarantine And Prevention

Final Thoughts