Author: Mark Valderrama

  • Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian Almond Leaves are not decoration. They release tannins that lower pH, provide antibacterial properties, and create the blackwater conditions that bettas, shrimp, and many South American fish evolved in.

    Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

    Indian almond leaves are the cheapest water conditioner in the hobby and they actually work.

    Indian almond leaves are one of those simple additions that make a real difference in the right setup. I use them in betta tanks. They release tannins that soften the water and lower pH, mimicking the blackwater environments bettas come from, and the antifungal properties are genuinely useful for fin health. Betta breeders swear by them, and for good reason. They work well in shrimp tanks too; shrimp graze on the leaves as they decompose and seem to thrive in the tannin-rich water. The downside is purely aesthetic: the water turns tea-colored, which some people love and others don’t. Here are 5 solid reasons to consider adding them.

    What Are Indian Almond Leaves?

    Indian Almond Leaves Outside

    Indian almond leaves are leaves from the Terminalia catappa tree, also known as the Indian almond tree, which is native to parts of Asia, Africa, and Australia. These Indian almond leaves, also known as catappa leaves, are collected, dried, and sold as they are very beneficial to a variety of freshwater life and are essential for replicating blackwater ecosystems in the home aquarium.

    Blackwater ecosystems are defined by their tea-colored, murky waters. Underneath these dark surfaces, the chemical and medicinal properties of the water help sustain a plethora of tropical fish and invertebrates, including wild relatives of the famous betta fish (Betta splendens).

    This natural environment gets its color from decaying organics that leak tannins and tannic acid. In the aquarium, tannins is released in the same way, especially by Indian almond leaves.

    What Do Indian Almond Leaves Do In The Aquarium?

    Not only do Indian almond leaves help replicate the natural ecosystems of many tropical fish, but there is a large list of benefits that come with using them in the aquarium.

    Some of these benefits include:

    • Antifungal and antibacterial properties
    • Lower pH levels and soften water
    • Comfort shy and stressed fish
    • Quarantine system

    Some of the only drawbacks to using Indian almond leaves are the blackwater appearance they give in the aquarium and their acidic properties. However, both is controlled through water changes.

    1. Antifungal And Antibacterial Properties

    Tannins are naturally found in many trees and plants as a form of protection. They are mainly stored in the bark and new leaves where they act to defend the plant from infectious bacteria and fungi that try to enter.

    In the fish tank setting, tannins act in the same way by decreasing the number of pathogens in the water column while bolstering the immune system of the fish. So much so that Indian almond leaves have been seen as a great natural addition to aquariums struggling with fin rot. Fin rot is caused by bacteria or fungus and Indian almond leaves have been a great natural remedy.

    While Indian almond leaves won’t entirely cure fin rot without any extra maintenance, they definitely increase the chances of a full recovery.

    2. Lower pH Levels And Soften Water

    Many tropical fish have adapted to the standard parameters of aquarium water no matter where they once originated from: 7.0 pH and 4-8 dKH. While most fish can live in these pristine conditions indefinitely, wild-caught and sensitive species will thrive in soft and acidic conditions that replicate their natural origins.

    As the Indian almond leaves break down in the aquarium, they will start to release tannins and tannic acid that lower pH and general hardness. This is a gradual breakdown, and there’s little to no fear that water parameters will change too quickly for your fish to handle.

    Still, it is best to test parameters regularly to make sure that your fish don’t get stressed out.

    3. How Much Do They Lower pH?

    The more Indian almond leaves that you add to your aquarium, the more your pH will drop due to the tannic acid being released. However, how much your pH will drop depends on some external factors that will be unique to every individual tank.

    One of these factors is the carbonate hardness (KH) of the water being used. KH is the parameter that dictates how much or how little pH is buffered at any given time. An improper KH will make changing pH levels difficult and volatile. Though this won’t make a big difference when using just a leaf or two, it’s definitely something to track with long-term use.

    Other factors include the rate of decomposition, water change schedule, and use of activated carbon.

    In general, it is expected for pH levels to drop 1-2 ppm with the use of Indian almond leaves. This will result in pH levels settling between 5.0-7.0, which is perfect for blackwater fish species.

    It is very important to keep track of pH levels when using Indian almond leaves. PH is measured on a logarithmic scale, which means that small changes in value can have much greater effects than anticipated.

    4. Comfort Shy And Stressed Fish

    A bed of Indian almond leaf litter is the home of and food for many tank inhabitants. Small fish will love to take shelter in and feed on a leaf litter substrate, potentially spawning and raising nearly hatched fry. Shrimp especially love being able to forage on the undersides of the leaves and will feel comfortable reproducing in the coverage they provide.

    In addition, many fish and invertebrates will appreciate dimmed lighting conditions, which is achieved through the dark brown color of the water. If you’re struggling with particularly shyer fish or invertebrates, try adding some Indian almond leaves!

    5. Quarantine System

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves won’t be the only thing that cures your fish of fin rot or another fungal or bacterial infection, but they can definitely help speed up recovery and prepare fish for transfer to a new aquarium.

    Indian almond leaves can safely be added to the quarantine or hospital fish tank system to bolster immunity, prevent some low grade infections, and improve water quality. Some fish keepers have abandoned all other forms of conventional aquarium medicines for the natural alternative of Indian almond leaves or another source of tannins.

    Along with Indian almond leaves, water changes will still need to be kept up with to continue to maintain water parameters. Activated carbon may also need to be run for better control of parameters.

    However, Indian almond leaves is a simple yet effective addition to the quarantine system for extra protection against bacterial and fungal infections.

    Can You Use Too Many?

    Indian almond leaves is a great addition to most fish tanks for their medicinal properties and the comfort they bring to fish.

    Some hobbyists may choose to only use a few leaves here and there for aesthetic purposes while others would rather create a full leaf litter substrate that is a few inches deep. There are many ways to use Indian almond leaves, but it’s very difficult to actually use too many.

    The main side effect of using too many Indian almond leaves is having very dark brown water. At some point, it will become difficult to view fish and submersed plants might even have difficulty getting the light that they need to photosynthesize.

    Overly dark water can easily be fixed through a series of partial water changes or by adding activated carbon to the aquarium. Gradually the dark water will lighten in color and pH levels and water hardness will also return to where they originally were.

    This is where things can become slightly problematic, though. Indian almond leaves lower pH and the hardness of the water. The more Indian almond leaves that are used, the more that those levels will decrease in the fish tank.

    It is very difficult to overdose Indian almond leaves in that aspect, and, you will lose sight of your fish before the water becomes too acidic for them to handle. Also, remember that most of the fish found in these black waters have been known to survive in acidic water conditions down to 3.0 ppm or less.

    While these levels is deadly if changed too fast, Indian almond leaves make this change in water quality slow and steady for your fish to safely adapt.

    How To Use

    Indian almond leaves are inexpensive and is found at your local pet or fish store. It is recommended to use one medium-sized leaf for every 10 gallons of water. Two may be used for the same amount of water for a stronger effect.

    Indian almond leaves take only a few days to sink to the bottom of the tank. After that, they will start to noticeably decompose over the course of a month or two. There is no need to remove the Indian almond leaves at any point and they is left to decompose until there’s nothing left. Once your Indian almond leaves are nearly all gone, add a few new ones and start the process over.

    Want all the benefits of Indian almond leaves but don’t necessarily want the mess? Here is how to make Indian almond leaf extract.

    How To Make Extract

    Indian almond leaf extract is exactly what it sounds like: a concentrated dose of tannins and tannic acid excreted from Indian almond leaves. Instead of adding Indian almond leaves directly to the aquarium, an extract is a great way to get all the benefits and natural look without any of the mess.

    Here are the steps to making your own extract from Indian almond leaves (you can also see the video above by AquatikGuru):

    1. Prepare dried botanicals, including Indian almond leaves, walnut leaves, and common beech leaves as well as birch and alder cones; Indian almond leaves are the most common type of leaf to use in the aquarium setting as it has been the most researched. Make sure to purchase other dried botanicals from a trusted pet store.
    2. Place a handful of these botanicals into a heat-safe container that is sealed.
    3. Pour boiling or hot water over the Indian almond leaves and seal the container for at least 24 hours. The water will turn dark brown.
    4. At this point, the leaves may be strained out of the dark water. The Indian almond leaves may be placed directly into the aquarium for use or boiled again for another batch of Indian almond leaf extract; the only downside to reusing leaves is that they will start to decompose very quickly, which can make for a cloudy dose.
    5. The recommended Indian almond leaf extract dosage is one ounce for every one gallon of water. More than this may be added at any given time as long as pH levels are carefully tracked.

    If you don’t feel like making your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then there are many products available for sale in-store and online. Some options include premade tannin concentrates or powders. However, there are a few problems with these.

    The main problem with using Indian almond leaf powder is that you can’t be sure of the ingredients. Unfortunately, it is possible that the powders are treated with dyes to enhance their appearance or that they include other unknown ingredients. While these dyes and ingredients aren’t likely to hurt fish if they’re from a reputable seller, dyed powder won’t give the full benefits that Indian almond leaves could otherwise.

    If you don’t want to make your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then a premade liquid concentrate would be the best option for receiving the full benefits at a reasonable cost. Many fish keepers find that liquid Indian almond leaf products don’t contain a lot of product though and is expensive for the amount you’re getting; many extracts come in small bottles only meant to treat a small fish tank one time.

    To find the best liquid Indian almond leaf extract, make sure that you’re getting a product that treats hundreds or thousands of gallons of water while remaining under a $25 budget. Otherwise, it is much more worth it to make your extract from separately purchased Indian almond leaves.

    Are They Good For All Fish?

    No, Indian almond leaves are not good for all fish. While many of the beloved fish, like tetras and angelfish, available in pet stores come from tropical blackwater ecosystems throughout the world, many other fish come from areas with basic, hard water instead. This includes:

    Most of the fish on this list prefer neutral or heightened pH as opposed to acidic conditions. Though these fish might adapt to lower pH levels over time, subjecting them to unideal conditions for extended periods of time can potentially shorten their lifespan.

    Instead, one of the best fish to use Indian almond leaves with is the betta fish, particularly wild bettas. Otherwise, Indian almond leaves are a very popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks as dwarf shrimp love to forage in and around the leaf litter.

    Wild Bettas

    Most fish keepers have had a betta fish tank at one point or another in their aquarium careers. However, not many have taken the time to understand their true natural habitat preferences and how important blackwater conditions are to their success.

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    Wild betta fish species originate from southeast Asia, through parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. There, they live in extremely shallow ponds and overflows that are littered with palm fronds and other organic matter from the thick forest canopy above.

    These areas are very low in visibility and oxygen, leaving the betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ that allows them to rise to the surface of the acidic water for atmospheric air. These betta fish species are also less colorful in appearance compared to their more desirable tank-raised counterparts and have more basic reds, blues, and blacks.

    While not all wild betta fish species have been brought into the aquarium hobby, some popular species include Betta imbellis, Betta macrostoma, Betta picta, and Betta pugnax.

    Given what is known about these wild fish, Indian almond leaves greatly help the transition between their natural habitat and the aquarium setting. Wild betta fish thrive in soft and acidic conditions. They are also very shy fish and will do well under the dark brown color of the water and the addition of some floating plants.

    How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

    Adding Indian almond leaves to your aquarium is simple enough and so is removing them. If it turns out that you can’t stand the appearance of blackwater that comes with Indian almond leaves, then you’re not stuck with it forever! However, it’s going to take some time and a little extra maintenance to get your aquarium back to where it was.

    Though there isn’t much that can go wrong in the removal of Indian almond leaves from your aquarium, you want to take your time. PH and general hardness can cause problems when changed too quickly and it is better to be safe than sorry.

    First, you want to remove the Indian almond leaves from your aquarium to stop any more tannins from entering the aquarium. If the Indian almond leaves are already in small pieces, then use an aquarium siphon. Do this by sections so that you don’t stir up too much leaf litter at once, causing ammonia to enter the water column and a potential mini-cycle to start.

    At the same time, perform a 25% water change and add activated carbon to the aquarium. The water change will help introduce untinted water and the new desired water parameters while the activated carbon will strip the remaining tannins from the water.

    Within a few weeks, your tank should be back to being crystal clear with higher pH and hardness levels.

    Other Alternatives

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves are the most popular aquarium botanical as effects have been studied for years. Hobbyists have tried many other options though, including using leaves and cones that they might find on their own properties.

    Some popular alternatives include:

    • Peat moss
    • Driftwood
    • Walnut leaves
    • Common beech leaves
    • Birch and alder cones
    • Oak leaves

    Driftwood is not commonly seen as a way to introduce tannins, but tannins are the reason your aquarium turns brown after adding new pieces of driftwood! Driftwood is a great alternative to botanicals altogether, especially if going for a minimal aesthetic with rocks and wood features.

    If planning to collect your own botanicals, like oak leaves, survey the area for possible sources of contamination. This mainly results from runoff and pesticides but can also be from animal defecation. If there are any signs of contamination at all, do not add them to your aquarium.

    Also, make sure that the leaves are completely dried as live ones can release unwanted toxins into the aquarium.

    Where to Buy

    Indian almond leaves is purchased at specialty fish stores or online. If you are looking to purchase them online, check out the links below. Both sellers offer high-quality leaves at great prices.

    Indian Almond Leaves
    Indian Almond Leaves

    These leaves can be added to your aquarium to help promote a natural habitat for bettas, shrimp, and other soft-water loving fish. Betta breeders can use these leaves to help encourage breeding behavior.

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    Final Thoughts

    Indian almond leaves have antibacterial and antifungal properties which can help prevent and cure low-grade infections, like fin rot, while lowering pH and water hardness. They can help shy fish feel safer and become the home to an assortment of fry and juvenile fish and invertebrates.

    The only problem with using Indian almond leaves is that they can create an undesired dark tint to the aquarium water, which not all hobbyists will find appealing. These effects will need to be reversed through a series of partial water changes and the use of activated carbon.

    though, the benefits outweigh the cons, especially if keeping a blackwater fish species!

  • How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    Axolotls need cold water. Not room temperature. Cold. Below 68 degrees Fahrenheit or they stress, stop eating, and get sick. The number one killer is warm water in uncontrolled rooms during summer.

    If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

    If you cannot keep your tank below 68 degrees year-round, you cannot keep an axolotl.

    Axolotls have become one of the most popular aquarium pets in recent years, and it’s easy to see why. They’re bizarre-looking, personable, and surprisingly long-lived when kept correctly. In captivity, axolotls regularly reach 10 to 15 years, and some make it to 20. In the wild, they’re nearly extinct (Lake Xochimilco in Mexico is essentially their last native habitat), so what we keep in tanks are captive-bred animals that actually tend to be healthier than their wild counterparts. The biggest thing I see kill axolotls early is temperature. They need cold water, 60 to 68ยฐF, and most people don’t realize that. Get that right along with water quality, and you’re looking at a very long-lived companion. This article breaks down the 5 key factors that determine lifespan.

    Unfortunately, axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat. And so, what we get here is the laboratory-bred and tank bred axolotls that live much longer than the native ones.

    But before diving straight into the topic, let’s discuss why axolotls are endangered?

    Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

    Axolotls are critically endangered species, which are constantly declining in the wild and might go completely extinct in the near future.

    There are a number of factors that resulted in their sharp decline. In 1998, research stated that there were 6,000 axolotls per square kilometer in the lake Xochimilco. However, today, the axolotl population dropped to 35.

    So, where did we go wrong? The video above goes in detail (video from Frankie’s Aquatics). I’ll also add my points below. Let’s find out.

    Water Contamination

    The advancements and developments anywhere bring their own consequences. Thus, the recent developments in the Xochimilco regions resulted in water pollution, making these areas havoc for aquatic animals, especially axolotls.

    Overfishing

    It’s an old story of supply and demand; when the Mexican walking fish became a supreme delicacy in Mexico, the demand increased, leading to overfishing. And so, the numbers of axolotls in the wild kept decreasing.

    Habitat Loss

    The recent expansion of Mexico city almost completely destroyed and drained the lake Xochimilco, one of the principal habitats of axolotls.

    Invasive Species

    Mexicans introduced a number of invasive species in Lake Xochimilco that have decimated axolotls numbers in the wild, ultimately contributing to their shape decline. Axolotls themselves are invasive in some areas, with efforts from local government to make them illegal to own.

    How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

    It would surprise you that axolotls only live for about five to six years in the wild. And that’s because these species are endangered in their natural habitat due to habitat loss, fatal illness, or predators that prey on them.

    Therefore, axolotls live for around five years to six years in the wild.

    How long do they live in captivity?

    Even though we don’t have solid numbers for the oldest-known Axolotl, axolotls can live for up toย 15 years in captivity.ย Some may even go forย 20 yearsย and longer if taken care of.

    Therefore, adopting an axolotl is a huge commitment that demands consistency and dedication.

    Factors that affect Their Lifespan

    Axolotl Morphs

    Like other salamander species, Axolotl’s life span mainly depends on the following factors. You can increase your axolotl life span by considering these factors and keeping them happy and healthy for an extended time.

    1. Water Quality

    If there is one thing that Axolotl cannot compromise, it is the tank’s water quality. Your axolotl tank’s suggested optimum water temperature is 59ยฐF to 60ยฐF (16-18ยฐC). As an estimate, the water temperature should not exceed 75ยฐF (24ยฐC).

    Additionally, the pH level of the water tank should be 7.4 – 7.6 to create a warm, welcoming environment for your smiley little pets. To increase Axolotl lifespan, your axolotl tank should be free of Chlorine and chloramines as they are harmful to your pet axolotls.

    If Chlorine is detected in the water, I suggest installing a de-chlorinator to minimize the effects. Also, to get rid of the traces of Chlorine, water should be left standing for at least 24 hours before adding your Axolotl.

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    2. Tank Setup and Conditions

    Axolotl spends their entire lives underwater, so their only home is the tank in which they live. Make sure to reward your adorable pets with the best and high-quality tank setup and conditions.

    First of all, the tank size should suffice the needs of your Axolotl. The bare minimum tank size to house one juvenile axolotl is 10 gallons. However, the tank size should be no less than 20 gallons for adult axolotl. That’s because axolotls are solitary creatures, more like messy creatures that create a lot of waste. Thus, a small tank would create serious health problems in the long run.

    Secondly, it is advised to change the tank water frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal infections. Also, water changes helps keep the ammonia levels low. Suppose you’re someone who cannot commit to changing the water regularly. In that case, I suggest installing canister filters as the water flow in canister filters is regulated to prevent stress-related diseases in your pet axolotl. Also, I don’t recommend plants in an axolotl tank as your pets might destroy them, causing a lot of mess in the tank. If you must, consider soft and flexible plants so your axolotls can pass through them quickly. I suggest keeping Java ferns for axolotl tanks.

    Lastly, the best choice for the substrate is sand since the particles are soft and small and cause no potential damage if swallowed.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Additionally, there is absolutely no need for proper lighting in the axolotl tank. The fact that these creatures lack eyelids, intense lighting is quite stressful to animals. Also, they are nocturnal animals and enjoy the darkness. If lighting is a requirement for your plants, you can invest in an L.E.D. Bulb for your aquarium. Many pet stores stock such lights, which are dimmable and fully adjustable.

    3. Food

    Axolotls are carnivorous and voracious eaters that eat pretty much anything that comes their way. However, it’s essential to feed them nutritious food rich in proteins to extend axolotl lifespan. Axolotls feast on live food such as earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, salmon pellets, etc. However, juvenile axolotls can eat daphnia, white worms, and grindal worms. You can also hand-feed your Axolotl to experience an adorable pet-parent moment.

    4. Handling

    Axolotls are part of the salamander family are aloof in nature and like to mind their own business in a peaceful, stress-free environment. Therefore, minimal handling is required for axolotls, especially if you want them to live a happy, healthy, and long life.

    Of course, you cannot avoid handling, especially while checking their skin or changing water, but it shouldn’t be done routinely. You can also keep Axolotl out of the water, although it is not recommended at all. That’s because axolotls have a slimy coat on their body which is destroyed by your hands, posing a threat to contact bacterial infection. Therefore, keep your axolotls in water and unbothered for a longer lifespan.

    5. Tank Mates

    White Cloud Minnow

    Axolotls are like your introverted friends that love you but stay low-key. So, if you want to house other pets with your Axolotl, think again!

    Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and they can easily harm other sleeping fish for a healthy meal. Here, I’m going to list the best axolotls tank mates for your convenience.

    • Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
    • Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
    • Guppies
    • Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
    • White cloud minnows
    • Other species of peaceful cool water fish

    However, bear in mind that you would at least need a 55-gallon tank if you plan on keeping tank mates with your Mexican walking fish.

    FAQs

    Can you touch them?

    Although not recommended, you can touch your axolotls in the case of emergency and urgency, i.e., while changing tank water or checking for diseases and other problems. But, handling your axolotls shouldn’t be a routine task as it is much more stressful for the pet.

    Also, axolotls have a slimy coat on their skin, which might damage by the warmth of your hands, posing a severe threat to your axolotls.

    How long can they be out of water?

    Not so long. Axolotls can survive outside of water for a few minutes, and as soon as they dry out, things can get pretty ugly.

    Axolotls’ skin is covered with a slimy coat that protects them from danger and other fungal and bacterial infection. If axolotls are out of water for too long, this coat disappears, leaving the pet in danger.

    Are they good beginner pets?

    Yes and no.

    Axolotls are good beginner pets as they live underwater and require little to no handling. It also means that they don’t need any special care and attention. However, they are susceptible to stress-related diseases. Hence, this is why I don’t think they are a good choice for beginners.

    Axolotls are very sensitive to water quality and conditions. Most axolotls spend their lives in a stressful environment just because the owners don’t care enough about their surroundings.

    Therefore, if you’re a responsible novice keeper and plan to provide the proper water parameters, tank size, and optimal tank conditions to your axolotls, yes, axolotls are good beginner pets for you.

    Can they live for 100 years?

    No, axolotls live for around 10-15 years in captivity. The longest they can survive is approximately 20 years when the Axolotl is well-cared of in some rare cases.

    How long do these pets live?

    Pet axolotls live for around 10-15 years in general. In some extreme cases, when provided the suitable water parameters, conditions, and tank size, axolotls can live for up to 20 years.

    Are They Immortal?

    No. Axololts die naturally due to natural threats., several factors contribute to their sudden, accidental death, such as inferior water quality, food that contains toxins and are hard to digest. The primary cause of axolotl death is overheating. Therefore, an aquarium chiller is recommended for axolotls’ tank.

    Axolotl lifespan is around 10-15 years with proper care, which is known to be the longest as compared to other aquatic animals.

    Can They regenerate body parts?

    Axolotls have the power to regenerate their body parts and internal organs such as limbs, lungs, heart, and brain.

    Their ability to regenerate limbs and other organs is the prime reason for their extended life expectancy. Because if they are exposed to diseases or accidents, they will regenerate, and the organs come back to their original state.

    How are axolotls different from other salamanders?

    Axolotls are different from other species in a variety of ways.

    1. Axolotls are larger than other species.
    2. Axolotls are only native to Lake Xochimilco, whereas other species is found elsewhere.
    3. Unlike most amphibians, axolotls are neotenic, which means they don’t undergo metamorphosis, and their juvenile features are retained in the adult animal.
    4. Axolotls live entirely underwater and use gills for breathing.

    What causes Their death?

    Like other animals, axolotls die naturally. However, there are instances when they have an accidental death.

    The leading causes of Axolotl’s death are poor water quality, smaller tank size, high temperature, and unsuitable mates for your axolotl pets.

    To allow your axolotls to lead a happy, healthy life, it is imperative that you provide them with the right water parameters and conditions. Also, the quality of food should be superior. It is recommended to install an aquarium chiller or aquarium fans to main the water temperature.

    Final Thoughts

    So the answer to how long axolotls live is no longer a mystery. Axolotls, in captivity, can live for up to 10-15 years. Some may live longer for up to 20 years, provided their water and tank requirements are met.

    Axolotl lifespan wholly and solely depends on how you keep it. Proper axolotl care includes tank size, water quality, food quality. If you get that all right, your smiley little pets will live longer and happier with you.

    References

  • Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size

    Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size

    Sucker fish are one of the most misunderstood categories in the hobby. I’ve had people tell me their pleco “cleaned the algae” in a 10-gallon tank, not realizing it would grow to 18 inches and produce more waste than it ever consumed. Matching the right sucker fish to your tank size is everything. And there are genuinely great options for small tanks if you know where to look.

    “Sucker fish” is one of those catch-all terms that gets thrown around a lot in the hobby, but it actually covers a pretty wide range of species. From common plecos to otocinclus to Siamese algae eaters. After 25+ years of keeping and recommending these fish, the biggest mistake I see beginners make is buying a common pleco without knowing it can hit 18 inches. I’ve helped a lot of people rehome full-grown plecos that outgrew their tanks. My go-to recommendation for most community tanks is the bristlenose pleco. It stays small, actually eats algae throughout its life, and is hardy enough for beginners. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the best sucker fish options for different tank sizes so you can make the right call from the start.

    The Top 10 Sucker Fish Types

    It’s time to learn more about ten great sucker fish species that you can keep! Different types of sucker fish have different needs so I’ve included a list of the most important information about each species that you need to know. For you visual learners, check out the video below from our YouTube channel.

    Pay attention to these facts and figures:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Adult Size
    • Temperament
    • Origin
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Temperature
    • Diet
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    Now let’s meet some sucker fish!

    1. Otocinclus Catfish

    Otocinclus Catfish
    Otocinclus Catfish

    A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Peru, Colombia, Ecuador
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate -Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The otocinclus catfish is the best sucker fish for nano aquariums. That doesn’t mean this smaller species won’t enjoy a larger tank, however.

    Otos are incredibly peaceful little fish that love to eat algae. You’ll find these entertaining little fish sucking on the glass, ornaments, or plants in the aquarium. They will also swim around in the midwater of the aquarium and will be much happier if kept in groups.

    2. Chinese Algae Eater

    Chinese Algae Eater Fish
    • Scientific Name: Gyrinocheilus aymonieri
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 8-11 inches
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, dried foods, live & frozen foods, vegetables
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Chinese algae eater is a very common sucker fish in the hobby but one that should not be bought before doing careful research. These sucker fish is pretty aggressive when they get older and have the scary habit of latching onto other fish and sucking on their slime coating.

    3. Bristle Nose Pleco

    Bristlenose Pleco
    Bristlenose Pleco

    The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

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    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • Diet: Vegetables, spirulina, live/frozen food
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    If you’re looking for a really strange and unique sucker fish for your aquarium, the bristlenose pleco is a perfect choice! These fascinating fish are also known as the bushy nose pleco.

    They are relatively small as far as plecos go and very peaceful in a community aquarium. A small flower pot to hide in and some driftwood to graze on will keep this fish happy in the home aquarium.

    4. Siamese Algae Eater

    Siamese Algae Eater
    Siamese Algae Eater

    A great algae-eating fish that is known for eating black beard algae. Grows up to 7 inches in length and requires a larger aquarium

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    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus langei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, spirulina, vegetables
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed:
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Siamese algae eaters are terrific little sucker fish that are famous for their habit of eating black brush algae (BBA). This makes them an awesome choice for planted tank enthusiasts who want a little help keeping their tank clean.

    5. Zebra Pleco

    Exotic Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus zebra
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 3.2 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 79-86ยฐF
    • Diet: Live/ frozen foods, sinking pellets
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The zebra pleco is one of the best-looking sucker fish in the hobby. They stay pretty small too, making them a good choice for smaller fish tanks.

    These eye-catching sucker fish are peaceful, but they is a little aggressive towards other bottom-dwelling fish in the tank. Zebra plecos also need pretty hot water conditions to thrive, so keep that in mind when picking out tankmates.

    6. Sailfin Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 18 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen food
    • pH: 6.5-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The sailfin pleco (video source) is a large and beautiful sucker fish from South America. They get their name from their huge upright dorsal fin.

    These peaceful fish are easy to keep and do very well in community setups. At over a foot in length, however, they need a large aquarium in order to thrive.

    7. Trinidad Plecostomus

    Hypostomus punctatus
    • Scientific Name: Hypostomus punctatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 11 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Trinidad pleco is a large species that is closely related to the common pleco or suckermouth catfish. It is a large algae eater that requires a large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. They are very peaceful and useful cleaners in large community tanks.

    8. Spotted Sailfin Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys joselimaianus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 12-16 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, vegetables
    • pH: 6.5-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The spotted sailfin pleco is also known as the marbled sailfin or the gold spot pleco. These sucker fish are very peaceful with the other fish in their tank but they tend to show some aggression towards their own species and other plecos. These suckermouth catfish get big, so be sure to provide them with enough space.

    9. Peppermint Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Parancistrus nudiventris
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen foods
    • pH: 6.5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The peppermint pleco (video source) is another incredible armored suckermouth catfish of the Loricariidae family. These sucker fish are covered with whitish spots that create an amazing look almost like the starry night sky!

    Peppermint plecos are peaceful fish that are perfect for community aquariums with some water movement to recreate their natural habitat.

    10. Tiger Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Temperature: 77-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Sinking pellets, live/frozen foods, Algae, vegetables
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These sucker fish (video source) have beautiful markings, which is why they are named after striped big cats. Tiger plecos are black and white, although colorful golden morphs are available in the pet trade.

    These fish are very peaceful in a community setup, but should not be kept with other plecos to avoid territorial behavior or possible hybridizing.

    What Are They?

    Sucker fish fall into a broad category of mostly bottom-dwelling freshwater fishes that often use their specialized ventral mouth to feed and attach themselves to the ground and structure around them. Many of them are specialized algae eaters, while others graze on driftwood or feed on small invertebrates.

    Sucker fish belong to several groups including the family Loricariidae which includes the well-known suckermouth catfish. Other sucker fish species like the Siamese algae eater are cyprinids from the same family as well-known fish like goldfish and barbs.

    Suckerfish live in a variety of natural habitat types from lakes and small freshwater streams to slower-moving channels of larger rivers. Many of them are nocturnal fish, but they adapt really well to aquarium life and is active in dim lighting.

    Tank Setup

    Sucker fish are a pretty diverse group, so your tank setup will depend on which species you plan to keep. Nano species like otos is kept in fish tanks as small as 10 gallons, but some of the bigger plecos require a much bigger tank

    Let’s take a look at some general sucker fish aquarium setup tips.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Your choice of substrate is not particularly important unless you plan on growing a heavily planted tank. Aquarium sand or aquarium gravel will work just fine, and darker colors can help your fish feel more comfortable.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Some suckerfish like to spend the day hiding so providing some caves in the form of large ornaments or even a simple terracotta flower pot can help them feel more at home. Driftwood is also very important for these fish so be sure to place a few pieces in your tank.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Some sucker fish like otocinclus and Siamese algae eaters are ideal for heavily planted tanks because they are great for keeping the plants and glass clean. These fish do just fine under high lighting in these setups. Plecos, on the other hand, tend to be nocturnal and will be more active under dimmer lighting.

    Filtration is important in any aquarium, but particularly vital when keeping plecos which create rather a large amount of waste. Choose a filter that can process the total volume of your aquarium at least 5 times every hour.

    Heating

    Maintaining the proper temperature for your tropical freshwater fish is very important. Some species, like the bristlenose pleco, can often be kept in unheated aquariums. Most other species require relatively warm water, however.

    Using a good quality heater will be important to keep the temperature in your aquarium stable and in the comfortable range for your sucker fish. Add a small thermometer to help you keep an eye on the temperature.

    How To Care For

    After setting up a great aquarium for your sucker fish, you’re going to need to learn how to care for them and keep them healthy. Fortunately, most sucker fish are peaceful and easy to care for. Read on to learn more!

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintaining optimal water quality should be the first priority of every fishkeeper. Running a good quality filter and keeping your fish in a big enough tank is very important, but you’ll also need to test your water regularly and get ‘hands on’ to keep your tank clean.

    Before introducing any fish, pick up a water test kit and measure your water parameters to see if they are appropriate for the fish you want to keep. Your water chemistry will change over time, so you’ll need to do this regularly.

    Perform a regular water change every week or two to keep your nitrate levels down. This is a great opportunity to suck up waste from your substrate and rinse out your filtration media. Don’t forget to use a water conditioner to treat your tap water before refilling the aquarium.

    Feeding

    The different sucker fish species have different diets, so make sure you know what kind of fish you have and the kind of food it needs. Most species are to be bottom feeders.

    The following food sources are ideal for the omnivorous species of sucker fish:

    • Shrimp pellets
    • Sinking pellets
    • Blanched veggies
    • Live and frozen foods like brine shrimp and blood worms

    Some sucker fish eat algae as their staple diet. These fish will feed on the algae that grow naturally in your aquarium. If you don’t have enough algae to keep them well-fed, the following food sources make great supplements:

    Great For Bottom Feeders!
    Hikari Algae Wafers
    Hikari Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

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    Breeding

    Some sucker fish are very easy to breed and you might even find fry swimming around in your tank without even trying. Other species, however, is pretty challenging or even close to impossible to breed at home. This is a post in itself. To make it easier for you, I provided this video by Purely Aquatic.

    You will need to research the breeding habits of your specific species. For the best chance at success, set up a dedicated breeding tank and make sure your fish are kept healthy and in great condition.

    Best Tank Mates

    Most species of sucker fish are peaceful creatures that do great in community tanks. Plecos is aggressive towards other members of their own species or other similar suckermouth fish that live on the bottom of the tank, however. Keeping just one of them in a community tank is the best bet.

    The general rule is to choose non-aggressive tank mates that are not much larger than your suckerfish. That way you don’t have to worry about them being eaten by another fish. Ideal tank mates will also enjoy the same tank setup and water parameters.

    Here are a few good tank mates to keep with peaceful sucker fish:

    Tankmates to Avoid

    • Any aggressive fish
    • Avoid keeping more than one pleco in the same tank
    • Avoid keeping large, slow-moving fish with Chinese algae eaters
    • Larger fish that could eat your sucker fish

    Where To Buy

    Most fish-keeping and pet stores sell a selection of sucker fish. Some of the rarer species will be much easier to find online, however. Always buy your fish from reputable breeders and stockists to be sure of the health and identity of the fish you buy.

    FAQS

    How big do they get?

    The adult size of any sucker fish depends on its species. Some of the biggest types can grow over 20 inches long!

    What do they eat?

    Sucker fish eat a variety of different food sources. Most species are omnivorous and will feed on both animal and plant matter. Some sucker fish are specialized for eating algae, and that makes them great clean-up crew animals for home aquariums.

    How long do they live?

    Some sucker fish can live as long as 15 years, depending on their species. Small fish like otocinclus catfish will not live as long and have a lifespan of about 5 years or less.

    Are plecos good fish for tanks?

    Plecos are great freshwater fish for home aquariums. There are loads of different species that come in a huge variety of colors and patterns. Like all fish, it is important to carefully research their needs before adding them to your tank.

    How many otocinclus should be kept together?

    Otocinclus are social little fish that thrive if kept in groups. They will be happiest if kept in groups of 5 or more.

    Final Thoughts

    Sucker fish are some of the most interesting freshwater fish species in the aquarium hobby! These oddball fish can do a great job of keeping the tank clean while adding more interest to the bottom of the aquarium. If you ask me, just about every community aquarium should include sucker fish.

    Do you keep sucker fish? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them

    Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them

    Planaria are flatworms that eat shrimp fry, snail eggs, and anything small enough to catch. They are a sign of overfeeding and they spread fast in shrimp tanks.

    Planaria in a shrimp tank is a breeding colony killer. Treat it immediately.

    Planaria in a shrimp tank is a breeding colony killer. Treat it immediately.

    What Are They?

    Planaria are commonly known as flatworms. These animals belong to the Turbellaria class and the larger phylum of Platyhelminthes1. They is found in a variety of ecosystems, including freshwater, brackish water, marine, and even in humid terrestrial settings. There, they play an important role in the ecosystem and can even be used as a bioindicator for the conditions of the environment. Though Planaria are abundant, they are actually quite sensitive to poor environmental conditions.

    In addition, species of Planaria exhibit regeneration. These incredible animals are able to regenerate a new independent flatworm from just 1/200th of a piece; if split in two, the head piece will develop a tail while the tail piece will develop a head. Planaria also share some genetic similarities with humans, making flatworm bioindication and regeneration a hot topic of scientific study and application.

    Because flatworms are so small and elusive, it’s impossible to know how many species exist, though rough estimates are about 4,500 unique worms. One thing is for sure though, they have happily made their way into the home aquarium.

    What Do They Look Like?

    If you have a planted tank or reef setup, you probably have aquarium worms in your aquarium whether you like it or not. While most species of Planaria flatworms are harmless, the good ones are difficult to tell apart from the bad ones. This is why it’s recommended to remove and treat for planarian flatworm if you find one in your aquarium regardless.

    First, you need to know what one of these small worms looks like.

    Planaria Worm Under Microscope

    Planaria flatworms are named after their flat bodies. These animals are dorsoventrally compressed, meaning they have flattened bodies from both the under and upper sides. One of their main characteristics is their triangular head, which has two observable eyespots.

    Flatworms are very small and stay well under half an inch in length. There are a few types of planaria worm found in the aquarium:

    • Light Planaria, sometimes called white Planaria or white worms, are species from the Procotyla genus. They are freshwater worms from North America and Russia. They are very light and creamy in color, though they might have bursts of darker color across their bodies.
    • Dark Planaria are often Dugesia species, which are much more widespread throughout the world and are found in freshwater ecosystems.
    • Red flatworms (Convolutriloba spp.) are one of the most common marine Planaria worms to come across. They reproduce quickly and can quickly suffocate corals. When killed, these rust-colored worms also release a toxin that can become dangerous to other aquarium inhabitants. Interestingly, red flatworms are largely photosynthetic.

    Keep in mind that Planaria flatworms are only a few millimeters in length, making them incredibly difficult to accurately identify. Planaria flatworms are not the only worm in the aquarium though, and lots of other aquatic worms are beneficial to our systems.

    It is easy to confuse Planaria worms with detritus worms that live in the substrate, cleaning up leftover food and providing oxygenation. Detritus worms will stay in the substrate or along the bottom of the aquarium and have a long and thin rounded body. This is much different from the flattened appearance of a flatworm.

    Planaria In Aquarium? How Do They Get In

    Planarian worms are hitchhikers just like any other creature that has unknowingly made its way into your aquarium. They show up in your aquarium one day, fully established.

    Like other hitchhikers, Planaria flatworms enter the aquarium through direct transfer of rock, media, substrate, plants, or other aquarium decorations. It is also possible that Planaria eggs are transferred on these objects which will then hatch in the new aquarium. On rare occasions, Planarian worms and eggs may be transferred with the aquarium water.

    Like many other pests, Planaria populations will largely depend on the overall resource availability of the fish tank; population numbers may increase and decrease depending on water quality and feeding frequencies. While it’s normal to find one or two Planaria flatworms every now and then, you might find yourself facing an infestation.

    No matter how many worms you observe in your aquarium, it is always recommended to remove them as soon as possible. This is mainly to prevent an infestation but also because it is hard to know if the type of flatworm you have is harmful to your system or not. It is better to prevent a problem before it happens than to clean up the mess.

    Are They Harmful To Fish?

    But how harmful are Planaria worm species? Will they kill your fish and invertebrates overnight or wait until you least expect it to strike?

    No, it is very unlikely for Planaria to affect your fish and larger invertebrates, like shrimp and snails (and also crabs); at the same time, Planaria have been known to attack and kill shrimp (see video above). While some species of Planaria are parasitic, they are rarely seen in the home aquarium. Instead, most fish tank Planaria species are free-living, burrowing into the rocks and substrate.

    These free-living Planaria worms can become problems, especially for corals. One of the most common pests is the red Planaria worm, which reproduces quickly and suffocates corals. However, there are other types of flatworm that target specific species of coral, like the Acropora eating flatworms (AEFW).

    These flatworms, Amakusaplana acroporae, are nearly impossible to see before it’s too late. AEFW flatworms feast on the coral’s flesh and then lay their eggs around the base of the skeleton. These Planaria worms are nearly the exact same color as the Acropora they eat, making them blend in and camouflage an already bare coral skeleton.

    On the other hand, a controlled Planaria population is beneficial for the home aquarium. These worms are excellent members of the cleanup crew and are a high-protein source of food for many fish species, especially wrasses. With careful feeding and regulation, these pests is put to good use.

    How To Get Rid of Worms

    The problem is that by the time you find one Planaria swimming across the front of your aquarium glass, you already have a problem. Remember, these worms reproduce quickly and one can quickly lead into a full Planaria infestation.

    Because these worms are so small, removal is difficult. Luckily, there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms through manual removal, chemical treatment, or the addition of new aquarium inhabitants.

    Manual Removal Of Flatworms

    Manually removing flatworms is like treating any other pest and requires determination and consistency.

    However, it’s important to keep in mind that some Planaria worms are capable of releasing toxins into the aquarium upon death, which should be avoided as much as possible. For extra precaution, make sure to run activated carbon filter media.

    Otherwise, these worms is carefully removed from the aquarium over the course of a few weeks.

    Aquarium Vacuuming

    Remove worms as you see them. If you find one crawling along the aquarium glass, carefully use a net or other container to get it out of the fish tank. This might seem simple enough, but it’s also worth taking a few extra minutes during a water change to suck up any flatworms that you see on corals, rocks, or plants with an aquarium vacuum.

    Some species, like the red flatworm, are easier to remove than others. After safely removing them from the tank water, they may be disposed of through specialized coral dips, boiling water, or other proven household chemicals.

    At the same time, feedings should be decreased. As mentioned before, a blossoming Planarian worm population is often directly linked to food availability. By limiting food temporarily while also undergoing population control, eliminating flatworms becomes a whole lot easier.

    Flatworm Traps

    Because hobbyists regularly struggle with flatworm infestation scares, tools have been developed to make the solution as easy as possible. One of these tools is a planaria trap.

    These traps come in many shapes and designs and may even be DIY’d. The main goal is to draw as many worms as possible by using extra smelly bait and leftover food. The Planaria trap is designed to allow the flatworms to enter but not to leave, letting hobbyists leave their aquariums alone to catch worms for them.

    The problem with the Planaria trap is that it can attract other smaller invertebrates and cleanup crew, like adult shrimp and other worms. Though the trap won’t kill them immediately, it makes predation easier while also stressing out the animals.

    The other problem with using a Planaria trap is that progress is slow and indefinite. These traps will not get rid of a Planaria infestation. Instead, they can regularly be used for population control.

    Chemical Treatment

    If your Planaria infestation is literally out of your hands, then you need to turn to a more immediate solution. However, chemical treatment should be a last resort as products designed only for Planaria worms is difficult to find and dose. Luckily, there are a few products that only affect Planaria, though they might originally be meant for other animals.

    The best chemical treatments for eliminating Planaria are:

    • Praziquantel. This treatment is safe for most fish species, though wrasses is more susceptible to negative side effects. It may kill fan and bristle worms but should not affect other invertebrates in fish tanks.
    • Salifertโ€™s Flatworm Exit. This chemical is one of the safest for all reef organisms, but will be ineffective at normal doses. This makes it so that you need to overdose on the product, which can lead to a mass die-off of worms that then release too many toxins that affect the whole tank.
    • Levamisole hydrochloride. Products that have this active ingredient are Levisol, Fenbendazole, Safe-Guard, and Paracur. These chemical treatments offer wide coverage and will kill most invertebrates in the aquarium and should be used as a last resort.
    • Interceptor. A canine dewormer that is used for reef tanks to eliminate flatworm infections
    • No Planaria. This is a shrimp-safe treatment that works for heavy infestations. Make sure to remove beneficial aquarium snails and chemical media when using this product. The active ingredient is Betel nut palm extract. This is a natural treatment that is effective against planaria in the aquarium.
    No Planaria
    No Planaria

    A shrimp safe treatment that works to eliminate Planaria from your aquarium. Great for battling infestions

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    While these chemicals is extremely effective, most do not treat for Planaria eggs. This is why it’s recommended to quarantine all new live rock (for saltwater tanks), plants, substrate, and filter media that is being transferred from one aquarium to another.

    New Fish And Invertebrates

    One of the best things about having Planaria worms in your aquarium is having an excuse to buy new fish and invertebrates. Like any other solution for pests, new aquarium inhabitants should not be purchased for a temporary solution. Fish and invertebrates should be given what they need for an indefinite time period.

    That being said, there are a few natural predators that eat Planaria in Freshwater tanks.

    Freshwater Angelfish

    • Scientific Name: Pterophyllum spp.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 6 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-Aggressive

    Freshwater angelfish are big, colorful fish that can work up an appetite. These fish are largely categorized as omnivores but can go into a frenzied state when live, meaty foods are introduced into the aquarium.

    This is used to the benefit of the hobbyist as freshwater angelfish are likely to go after flatworms to supplement their diet. Though these fish aren’t the most proactive hunters, they can certainly help keep worm populations under control.

    Once flatworm populations run low, angelfish can then sustain themselves on other foods instead.

    Gouramis

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster spp.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10-40 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 6 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-aggressive

    Gouramis and angelfish have very similar diets and are just as capable of controlling a flatworm population in the fish tank. These colorful fish species will gladly eat any flatworms they come across, and won’t need to be supplemented in the future.

    Again, gouramis will not eliminate the problem completely but will help keep numbers down.

    Tiger Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 3 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-Aggressive

    In a school, tiger barb behavior has sometimes been equated to that of a hungry pack of piranhas, and they definitely have the predatory instincts to prove it!

    Like angelfish, tiger barbs go into a frenzy when food is present. They are largely omnivores but will prefer a more meat-based diet, making them the perfect candidate to eat Planaria worms. The only problem is their over-aggression, which limits tank mate options.

    Assassin Snails

    • Scientific Name: Clea helena
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 3 inches

    If you’re pressed on space or just can’t add another fish to your aquarium, then an assassin snail is what you’re looking for. However, these snails won’t go after flatworms on their own and they might need some encouragement; all the while, it’s likely that your assassin snail will attack any other snails in the aquarium.

    In order to get your assassin snail to target flatworms, it’s recommended to feed the tank less. This will make your snail hungrier and possibly more interested in the prey that is already available.

    It should be noted that this is not a guaranteed method but can help hobbyists keep up with manual removal.

    Saltwater solutions

    In general, wrasses and blue velvet nudibranchs (Chelidonura variants) are the best biological solutions to get rid of Planaria worms. The six line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus), yellow coris, and canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) are especially known for their flatworm-eliminating powers.

    Planaria worms are great food for fish and most species of wrasse won’t turn down a free meal. Unfortunately, wrasses are active fish that need more space than the blue velvet nudibranch. They also prefer a substrate that they can burrow into at night.

    Other Options

    Hobbyists have also tried some species of dragonet and blenny, but both these fish seem to be more interested in other food in the aquarium first.

    Some hobbyists have even tried peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) that are successful Aiptasia hunters. However, they’re just as likely to move on to other foods first than to fully control Planaria worm populations in the aquarium.

    Quarantine And Prevention

    The best way to prevent a Planaria worm outbreak is by stopping them from entering your freshwater or saltwater aquarium in the first place. This is done by quarantining new live rocks, plants, filter media, and other aquarium decorations. Preventative dips may also be used for faster results.

    With any new addition to the aquarium, a quarantine period should be allowed. This should last about 2-4 weeks to allow worms to emerge and for any eggs to hatch. At this point, the problem is contained and is freely treated with any of the methods mentioned before: manual removal, chemical treatment, or added fish and invertebrates.

    The benefit of quarantine is that you don’t need to worry about sensitive fish or invertebrates that would otherwise be affected by the most effective chemical treatment options. You also don’t need to worry about nuking your tank with dead Planaria!

    The quicker method (for saltwater tanks) is rinsing new objects and media in a coral dip or other homemade solution. There are many coral dips that will treat a variety of pests, including flatworms.

    An alum dip is especially popular for dipping and treating freshwater live plants.

    While these dips are largely effective, some worms have grown immune to their effects. Planarian eggs may also not be affected and need to be manually removed.

    Final Thoughts

    Planaria flatworms aren’t something you want to see in your aquarium, but they’re not the most destructive or overwhelming pest. Luckily there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms, including manual removal, chemical treatments, and new aquarium additions.

    As with any pest, prevention is the best way for eliminating flatworms altogether.

    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. Your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in picking the best foods for their fish. Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best foods for your betta fish.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    Fluval Bug Bites
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    • Insect based
    • High protein
    Most Available
    Northfin Bits
    Northfin Bits
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Bio-Gold
    Hikari Bio-Gold
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    • Easy to find in stores
    • Easy to feed

    For those of you in a hurry, let’s cut to the chase. My top recommendation are Fluval Bug Bits. This product is made from solider fly larvae and provides everything a betta needs as a main food staple. Northfin betta pellets is also an excellent choice and well priced for what you get it has not fillers and is better than the vast majority of pellet products available. The most available and best budget option would be Hikari Betta Bio-Gold. This is sold in an easy to measure packet that makes it very easy to feed your betta the correct portions.

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

    Going through all the various fish food products out there, here are the products that made the cut for me. Each are high quality foods. I select a product for each type of fish food.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites     		Fluval Bug Bites
    • Pellet food
    • Natural
    • High protien
    		Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    Northfin Betta Bits     		Northfin Betta Bits
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    		Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold     		Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    • Pellet food
    • Easy to feed
    		Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Freeze Dried Blackworms Freeze Dried Blackworms
    • Freeze dried
    • Can be soaked in vitamins
    		Buy On Amazon
    Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia
    • Freeze dried
    • Multi-vitamin enhanced
    		Buy On Amazon
    SF Bay Multi-Pack SF Bay Multi-Pack
    • Frozen food
    • Great variety
    		Buy On Petco
    Frozen Bloodworms Frozen Bloodworms
    • Frozen food
    • Great source of protein
    		Buy On Petco

    The 7 Best Betta Food Products

    Let’s go into detail and see why each product made this list below.

    1. Fluval Bug Bites

    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    Fluval Bug Bites

    Best Betta Food

    Fluval bug bites is made of various insect and shrimp ingredients making this a high quality source of protein

    Buy on Petco Buy on Amazon

    As I mentioned earlier, Bettas are primarily insect eaters. This is their staple diet in the wild. Fluval’s bug bites formula attempts to replicate this by using Black Solider Fly larvae as the primary ingredient in their food line. This particular line is made for Bettas, with a small enough granule size to accommodate their mouths.

    What you get is a natural and protein rich fish food in an easy to digest pellet. This pellets are your usual pellets as they break apart easily and function more like freeze dried food. From a digestive perspective, it’s the perfect pellet. The folks at Fluval explain their process and reasons for the formula below.

    This betta fish food is great nutritionally, best can be messy to feed. Keep this in mind when using it so you don’t accidentally end up with excessive food wasted. Once you learn how to feed with it, it’s the best overall food you can buy. I recommend this as a staple food to mix with the others mentioned below.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Insect derived
    Cons
    • Can be messy to feed
    • Doesn’t always float

    2. Northfin Bits

    Best Betta Pellet Food
    Northfin Betta Bits
    Northfin Betta Bits

    A pellet fish specially formulated for Betta Fish. This is a great staple pellet food to add to your Betta’s diet!

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Looking for high-quality pellet food to feed your betta? Look no further than Northfin Betta Bits! These pellets are made in Canada and are packed with protein, making them the perfect choice for your finned friend. Plus, they contain no fillers, so you can be sure your Betta is getting the nutrients they need.

    The pellets are perfectly sized for bettas and tend to give a good feeding response to your fish. It is going to be more expensive than lower-quality pellet foods but is one of the best pellet foods you can purchase today. I feel they are superior to the omega one betta line and new life spectrum betta foods that compete with it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Ideal sized pellets
    Cons
    • Sink quicker than other pellets
    • Expense for a pellet food

    3. HikariBio-Gold Baby Pellets

    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold

    Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold formula. Contains high quality ingredients in an easy to use feeding package. A great beginner food

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    If you are looking for the perfect betta fish food for a beginner it would have to be Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold. The way the package is designed is made for the beginner. You can use the package to count the number of pellets and ensure your fish is not overfed.

    The food itself is also of great quality. It is designed by Hikari, which is known for its superior quality food. The food itself has been researched by Hikari’s R&D team. They were the first food manufacturer to design food for specific species of fish long before it was fashionable to do in the aquarium trade.

    You don’t get as much food as other products, but the package makes feeding easy to do. Make sure you take care of the package though, as it can break over time and doesn’t have a cap like other pellet foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Easy to feed
    • Great price
    Cons
    • Not a lot of food
    • Package can break

    4. Freeze Dried California Blackworms

    Freeze Dried Blackworms

    Blackworms have gotten my attention over the years as superior live food for marine fish. It also is a great food source for freshwater fish and bettas. I feel blackworms are superior to freeze-dried bloodworms due to their better nutritional profile. These blackworms are freeze-dried and easy to feed to your bettas.

    As with other friend-dried foods, they will easily soak up any type of vitamin product you use. I would recommend Vita-chem for freshwater fish. Using these blackworms and a vitamin doser will greatly enhance your Betta’s color and activity

    This is a very filling betta fish food that you will need to be careful about overfeeding. It also does not float much. There is a bit of a learn curb with this food over others, but if you are doing this food with Vita-chem you will have a food combo that is rich in protein and vitamins.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great protein source
    • Can be vitamin dosed
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesnโ€™t float much
    • Can be messy

    5. Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia
    Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

    Buy On Amazon

    If you don’t want to worry about fish bloat, Daphnia is a great food source to try. It is considered a great laxative in the aquarium trade. This freeze dried version from Hikari also comes vitamin enriched, saving you on having to use a vitamin doser.

    This betta fish food also provides one of the best feeding responses from freeze dried food. As you move up the chain in quality from from pellet to freeze dried to frozen food, this product is a great stepping stone to get your Betta fish more comfortable and ready for whole foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Vitamin enhanced
    • Best feeding response
    • Laxative for fish
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Can be messy

    6. San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Freshwater Multipacks

    SF Bay FW Mult-Pack
    SF Bay FW Mult-Pack

    This frozen food pack contains 4 types of formulas in one package. A great overall package for freshwater fish

    Buy on Petco

    Anyone who has been in the aquarium hobby for a while will rave about the benefits of whole frozen foods for fish. The problem with many frozen foods is you only tend to get one type of ingredient. This variety pack from SF Bay addresses this issue by offering 4 types of fish food in one package. You get the following with this product:

    • Freshwater Frenzy – Bloodworms, Cyclops, and Daphnia
    • Emerald Entree – Spirula, Mysis Shrimp, Fish Oil
    • Spirulina Brine Shrimp – The best frozen brine shrimp you can buy
    • Bloodworms – A common freshwater fish staple

    All of these formulas are whole foods, rich in vitamins and protein and food your betta will gobble up. The cubes are large for a betta fish, so plan on store your food properly. This food is expensive and will take up space in your freezer. Keep this in mind when you consider purchasing it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Variety
    • Highly nutritious 
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesn’t float
    • Messy

    7. Gamma Frozen Bloodworms

    Frozen Bloodworms
    Frozen Bloodworms

    Frozen bloods are a great source of protein and a fish source fish naturally respond to. Very filling and works for just about any fish

    Buy On Petco

    Frozen blood worms are a great treat for your Betta fish. These are an excellent source of natural protein for your fish and is pathogen free being a frozen food.

    These worms can be very filling and will get your fish looking fat fast. This fish food is easy to overfeed, so watch the portions that you provide to your fish.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Messy

    What Kinds Of Things Do They Actually Eat In The Wild?

    Betta fish are insectivores meaning they primarily eat insects in the wild1. In the wild, they will eat insects and insect larvae. Because of their diet in the wild, this means that you will want to ensure your Betta eats a diet that is rich in protein, but also has the roughage of to keep them from getting bloat. Roughage for a insect full of insects would be chitin from arthropods like brine shrimp and krill. This can make low grade processed fish food suspect.

    Our Criteria

    When it comes to figuring out the best betta food in the aquarium trade, I look at several factors when going over the options you can buy today.

    • Natural foods – I want food Betta actually eat in the wild and that is nutritious to them
    • No fillers – Fillers are in low quality food. I want more whole food and natural food for your pet
    • Quality brands – No generic or unproven brands. Sticking to tried and true here
    • All types of foods – I’m select foods from pellet, freeze dried, and frozen

    By looking at the list, you should have a well balance menu for your betta fish by purchasing the foods recommended.

    Types

    Let’s look at the various types of food available on the aquarium trade for Bettas. Generally, the heirarchy of food from worst to best goes Flake Food > Pellet Food > Freeze Dried Food > Frozen Food > Live Food.

    Unfortunately, live food is unpractical for most, but I’ll explain more below.

    Flake

    Flake food is the food you will find at all pet stores. It is going to be the cheapest and easiest to feed food you can purchase. While you can buy it, it is often times going to be the lower quality food you can purchase. It is best to use in a pitch or for an auto-feeder, but shouldn’t be a food you should rely on heavily.

    Pros of Flake

    • Cheap
    • Easy to feed
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Flake

    • Highly processed
    • Typically going to be the poorest quality fish food

    Pellets

    Pellet Foods

    Pellet food a step up from flake and actually has some high quality brands like Northfin and Hakari available. This food I feel can be a staple for for your Betta, but you do have to be careful with over relying on it. Pellet food if overfed can result in constipation and bloat issues. You can mitigate this by soaking your pellets before feeding them. It is going to be the highest quality food you can use in a

    Pros of Pellets

    • Good brands available
    • Easy to use
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Pellet

    • Can cause constipation or bloat
    • Quality can vary

    Freeze Dried

    Freeze dried food offers whole food that is dried and less processed than pellet or flake food. It looks more real to your Betta and will encourage a feedingresponse. It can also be dipped in vitamins, which this food does an amazing job soaking up. Freeze dried food can also be used in an auto feeder

    Pros of Freeze Dried

    • Whole food
    • Takes vitamins well
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Freeze Dried

    • More expensive
    • Can be messy

    Frozen

    Frozen food offers a whole and nutritious meal for your betta fish. It will have the highest nutrient content and will be the most filling for your fish. Frozen food is where you get to see your fish really pig out when they eat. It is the second most expensive of the foods available and can be messy. It can be easy to overfed if aren’t too careful. It’s also smelly.

    Pros of Frozen

    • Very nutritious
    • Very filling
    • Lots of variety

    Cons of Frozen

    • Messy
    • Expensive

    Live Foods

    Daphnia

    Live foods are the best food you can fed to a Betta, if you have the time and patience for it. You provide your fish the essential guy bacteria in order for them to build a healthy immune system and the feeding response is second to none. Even the pickiest fish cannot resist live foods.

    It is best if you are going to use live fish food to cultivate your own. You can buy them at a pet store, but you run the risk of transferring disease. It is time consuming and can be messy to make your own live food, but it is also very rewards — and your Betta fish will love you for it!

    For live foods, daphnia, brine shrimp, and California black worms are great to cultivate.

    Pros of Live

    • Best feeding response
    • Best nutrition
    • Great for picky fish

    Cons of Live

    • Risk of disease
    • Time consuming

    How Much Do You Feed Your Pet?

    This is a very popular question I get from readers. Betta fish always look hungry and like to beg for food. This can make it seem like they are starving all the time. While it could be great for your fish to feed them all the time, it isn’t great for their digestive system and its not great for the health of your water. Your lives are busy as well with lots of responsibilities. It can be difficult to feed a fish multiple times of days.

    Knowing all of this, I can comfortably say that you should feed your pet Betta once a day six days a week. Why only six days? This is because it’s a good idea to have freshwater fish fast for a day a week in order to clean out their digestive systems. Betta can live for nearly a week without food, but you don’t obviously want to do that.

    FAQs

    What is the best food to feed them?

    The best food to feed betta fish would be cultured live foods like daphnia and blackworms. However, this is something that can be time consuming and not what a hobbyist would want to do. Frozen foods mixed with dried foods and a high quality pellet food staple would be the best combo of foods to feed a Betta fish. Look for brands like Fluval, Hikari, and Northfin when shopping for Betta food.

    Do they prefer flakes or pellets?

    Bettas will prefer pellets over flake foods. Pellets will replicate their natural foods more and can be gulped up in one bite. Overall, pellet food is going to be of higher quality than flake food.

    How many pellets should I feed my pet?

    The number of pellets will actually depend on the type of pellet you are feeding your Betta fish. Usually 4-7 pellets a day is going to be okay for your Betta fish, but it could be more or less depending on the food and the size of your fish.

    Take a look at your Betta’s belly after eating, the belly should be full but not extended. If you are getting more of a bloated look, consider cutting down on the food. You should start with a small number of pellets and work yourself up when determining how many to feed your fish each day.

    Why is mine spitting out his pellets?

    There are a few reasons why your betta might be spitting out his pellets. The most common reason is that the pellets are too big for him to eat or not soft enough. Bettas have small mouths, so they can only eat small pellets. If the pellets are too big, they will spit them out.

    Another reason might be that the pellets are old and stale. If they’ve been sitting in the water for a while, they might not be as fresh as they once were. Finally, some bettas just don’t like eating pellets. They would rather eat live food or frozen food. If your betta is spitting out his pellets, you can try giving him smaller pellets or fresher pellets. You can also try frozen or live foods.

    Closing Thoughts

    While there are many different types of betta foods on the market, we recommend sticking to these seven. They provide a well-rounded and high-quality diet for your fish and will help them stay healthy and looking their best. If youโ€™re looking for variety in your bettaโ€™s diet, experiment with some of the other foods on the list. But always make sure that they are Bettafish safe! Do you have a favorite type of food to feed your betta? Leave a comment below and let us know what it is!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    If you found snail eggs in your tank, you need to identify the species before deciding what to do. Some snails produce hundreds of babies. Others produce a handful.

    Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

    Not all snail eggs are a problem. Identify the species first, then decide if you have an issue.

    Snail eggs are one of those problems that sneak up on you. One week your tank looks fine, and the next you’ve got hundreds of tiny snails coating the glass. I’ve been through this more than once. After adding live plants without quarantining them first. Most pest snails like bladder snails and ramshorn snails hitchhike in as eggs on plants, and they can multiply fast once they’re established. The good news is that prevention is straightforward once you know what to look for, and there are reliable ways to get things back under control. Here’s what I’ve learned works. And what doesn’t.

    Freshwater Snails (Where Snail Eggs Come From)

    Snail eggs start with adult snails. Whether you like it or not, snails will most likely end up in your freshwater fish tank. These invertebrates are some of the most successful hitchhikers, invading tanks by the hundreds.

    The problem is that snails start off very small. They like to attach themselves to live plants and other aquarium decorations before being transferred to a new tank, making the transition from one setup to another seamless. Even more so, most freshwater snail eggs are extremely difficult to spot and are mostly immune to pesticides.

    Once in the aquarium, snails will continue to reproduce either sexually or asexually; as we’ll see, there is one species of aquarium snail in particular that needs brackish water conditions to reproduce and is the most optimal choice for controlled systems. Otherwise, snail overpopulation can become a big problem for hobbyists very quickly as more snails equal more waste.

    To understand how snails reproduce, we need to first understand more about the different species available to hobbyists. The main species are:

    Malaysian Trumpet Snails

    Trumpet Snail
    • Scientific name: Melanoides tuberculata
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Asexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Malaysian trumpet snails are some of the most problematic snails as they are believed to reproduce asexually. These snails are small and difficult to see on incoming plants and decorations as they stay under an inch long.

    These aquarium snails are so problematic because not only are they asexual, but they also give birth to live young. This makes it impossible to prevent reproduction; as long as there is food in the tank, this freshwater snail species will continue to reproduce indefinitely.

    Ramshorn Snails

    Ramshorn Snail
    • Scientific name: Planorbidae family
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Ramshorns are unique and beautiful snails, which is probably why they end up overrunning so many aquarium systems. They have tight, swirled shells that can come in many light and dark color variations. Ramshorn snails are also effective algae cleaners and don’t take up a lot of space.

    The problem is that many beginner hobbyists see these freshwater snails and think to add several to their new tank. As a sexual snail species, ramshorn snails will reproduce and lay eggs almost immediately. Once ramshorn snails have entered your aquarium, they will continue to thrive based on food availability.

    Ramshorn snail eggs are some of the most difficult to see, with a transparent sac surrounding nearly transparent eggs. These eggs are laid at or below the waterline.

    Mystery

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Mystery snails are one of the most common freshwater snails to come across in your local pet store, but you won’t find them in more experienced hobbyist tanks. These snails might look like great cleaners, but they’re simply too large and reproduce too quickly if more than one snail is in the aquarium.

    This species is one of the most colorful, ranging in color from light greys and yellows to marbled browns. However, they’re not the best at cleaning algae and can become a pest if allowed to reproduce. It’s believed that their radula, or their teeth-like structure, are not as strong as better algae-eating snails. Because these snails are comparatively big, they do better in larger tanks.

    Mystery snail eggs are some of the largest and most noticeable. These clutches are very dense and laid at or above the waterline on the aquarium glass.

    Assassin

    • Scientific name: Anentome helena
    • Maximum size: 3 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Assassin snails are another popular aquarium snail species in the hobby due to their usefulness (video from The Dave). As their name implies, they are predatory snails that will attack and eat other snails. This is very useful for controlling pest snail populations. Unfortunately, this also means that they’ll leave problematic algae alone.

    Assassin snails are one of the bigger species of snail and need a larger minimum tank size. They have a bright brown and yellow swirled shell that provides color to the aquarium while serving a purpose. This helps them blend into the substrate, where they will burrow and bury themselves until ready to feed.

    As for freshwater snails, assassin snails are the least likely to overpopulate an aquarium as they need a sexual partner and lay eggs one at a time. Though they’ll kill most snail species and even possibly dwarf shrimp, they’ll mostly leave larger ones alone.

    Assassin snail eggs are singular and hard to see. They are most often laid on the aquarium glass in translucent sacs.

    Nerite

    Best Algae Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail
    Horned Nerite Snail

    Horned Nerite Snails are excellent algae eaters for planted tanks.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific name: Neritina spp.
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Nerite snail species are probably the best snail to have in both the freshwater and saltwater aquarium. These snails are great cleaners, stay relatively small, and have attractive yellow and brown swirled shells.

    The best thing about Neritina species is that they need brackish or saltwater conditions to reproduce. This makes it impossible for nerite snails to overpopulate a freshwater tank, leaving them to focus on cleaning.

    Still, it is very common for females nerite snails to lay eggs in the freshwater aquarium. These nerite snail eggs will look like small white capsules on the underside of driftwood, rocks, and plants. However, they will not hatch if the water never becomes saline.

    Snail Eggs

    If you introduce any of the freshwater snails on this list into your aquarium, you’re bound to find snail eggs. Whether these eggs are fertilized and hatch will depend on the species of aquarium snail you’re dealing with. It is safe to say that ramshorn snail and mystery snail eggs will all be fertilized and turn into a bunch of baby snails.

    First, you need to be able to identify what aquarium snail eggs look like. Then, you can deal with removing them and controlling snail populations.

    What Do Freshwater Aquarium Varieties Look Like?

    Snail Eggs on Aquarium Glass

    Freshwater snail eggs are easy to identify but difficult to find.

    Snails lay their eggs in safe areas that are hard to reach or out of sight. This means under the leaves of live plants, driftwood, and even rocks, though sometimes snails will lay eggs right at the waterline. Looking for snail eggs is especially important when bringing new live plants into the aquarium as they is easy to miss, causing a snail infestation.

    For the most part, freshwater snail eggs look the same no matter the species of snail. Snail eggs are laid in a clutch. Each egg clutch is filled with individual eggs safely packed within a transparent gelatinous sac. This is in contrast with nerite snails that lay individual eggs in a line.

    These individual infertile eggs is blue, pink, or creamy and are slightly transparent. Once they become fertilized eggs, they will turn darker in color and have observable dark and brown spots across the individual egg. If the eggs go unfertilized, they will not change in color or appearance.

    How Long Do They Take To Hatch?

    Again, how long it takes for snails eggs to hatch will depend on the species. In general, freshwater snail eggs will hatch in between 2 to 4 weeks after being fertilized.

    Water parameters, especially water temperature, will greatly influence how quickly eggs hatch. However, there aren’t many benefits to speeding up the process as snails are easy to breed.

    If several weeks pass and your baby snails have yet to hatch, then there is a chance that something went wrong or they were never fertilized. At this point, the unfertilized eggs may be removed or left in the tank for other fish and invertebrates to eat.

    Removing From Your Tank

    As mentioned before, many hobbyists struggle with snail infestations. Having too many snails is not always a good thing as there start to be more disadvantages than benefits.

    But how do you know if you should remove snail eggs from your aquarium or not?

    Unless you’re breeding snails for a reason, like for feeding predatory fish, snail eggs should always be removed from the aquarium. After the first pair of snails, the population growth becomes exponential, which can quickly get out of hand.

    Snails help will algae up until a point. After that, they create large amounts of waste that take away from other livestock and can even damage plants if they weigh too much. The problem is that snail eggs are hard to find and you’re left with catching and destroying hundreds of baby snails, which definitely doesn’t feel great to do. This is why we recommend removing the eggs before they get to that point.

    Here are the best ways to remove freshwater snail eggs before they get the chance to hatch.

    Manual Removal

    The best way to remove snail eggs from your aquarium is by manual removal. This is very easy to do especially if the eggs are on the side of the aquarium glass.

    Simply use a thin card or razor blade to separate the clutch from the glass. Then you may squish them or submerge them in vinegar.

    If the snail eggs are stuck onto the side of driftwood or a rock, then you need to remove the affected piece. Both the driftwood and rock may be scrubbed or scraped of the eggs. The driftwood can also be boiled if need be.

    Biological Solutions

    Clown Loach in Aquarium

    Luckily, snail eggs are high in protein and are the preferred diet for many freshwater fish and invertebrates. Unfortunately, many of these egg-hungry species also enjoy eating adult and baby snails, which may cause some problems. As long as the snail is larger than the fish, there should be no problems for adult snails.

    Some of these fish include:

    There are a few problems with getting rid of aquarium snail eggs through biological solutions, however. The main problem is that more fish require more room.

    Most types of loach and Corydoras need to be kept in schools of six or more individuals. This is a large long-term addition to the aquarium for a temporary problem. If space is available and the setup is right, then these fish will happily live even when the natural supply of snail eggs has run out.

    The other problem with using a biological solution to treating snail eggs is that not all snails lay their eggs in the same areas of the tank. Loaches and Corydoras live on the bottom of the tank but your snail may choose to lay its eggs towards the top of the tank or out of the water completely.

    Though these fish will surely take care of any eggs or baby snails near the bottom of the tank, it is up to the hobbyist to remove the eggs that are out of reach.

    Remember that the assassin snail is also a good predatory species to control a large snail population.

    Prevention

    Of course, the best way to get snail eggs out of your aquarium is by never introducing them in the first place! This is easier said than done, though it is possible.

    When picking out your clean-up crew, choose snails that use their time to eat algae and not to lay eggs. One of the best options of freshwater snail is the nerite snail as it checks both these boxes.

    Observe and treat new live plants for aquarium snail eggs and baby snails. Some hobbyists choose to quarantine their plants just as they would for new fish or invertebrates. This is a lengthy process but is definitely the most effective way at preventing unwanted pests from entering the aquarium.

    Otherwise, thoroughly go over the stems and leaves of the plants for transparent egg clutches. There are several dip options that can also be effective:

    • A dip of 2-3 mL 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water
    • A dip of 1:19 ratio of bleach to water
    • A dip of potassium permanganate that has reached a dark pink or purple color when mixed with water

    These dips is effective for removing not only unwanted snails, but also various types of bacteria, fungus, and parasites.

    If you do not use any methods to prevent snails from coming into your aquarium, they will find their way in time.

    Another great way to prevent snails is to best pest free plants. These plants are going to be tissue cultures and will be sold by specially retailers. Not all types of plants are available as tissue cultured though.

    Final Thoughts

    Snails are a necessary part of the freshwater aquarium ecosystem, but snail eggs are not. Many species of freshwater snail reproduce too quickly in the home aquarium, leaving tanks to be overrun. Luckily, there are a few types of snail that have slow reproduction rates or that can’t successfully reproduce in freshwater entirely.

    If freshwater snail eggs do happen to enter the aquarium, then some consistent manual removal or biological intervention may help solve the problem.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    11 Best Plants For Betta Fish โ€“ Tested by a 25-Year Hobbyist

    I’ve kept bettas for years and always found that the right plants make a huge difference. not just aesthetically, but for the fish’s actual wellbeing. Bettas love to rest on broad leaves, hide among stems, and explore a tank that feels like natural habitat. The tricky part is that betta tanks are often low-tech setups, so you need plants that can thrive without CO2 or high-end lighting. These are the plants I’ve personally grown in betta tanks and recommend without hesitation.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming the brown thumbs. Iโ€™ve personally grown several of these plants in betta tanks I’ve kept and seen others in real world scenarios to determine the best plants for betta fish tanks.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Java Fern
    Java Fern
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    • Adaptable plant
    • Easy to care
    Easy To Maintain
    Anubias Nana
    Anubias Nana
    Click For Best PriceBuy Tissue Culture
    • Slow growth
    • Stately laves
    Budget Friendly
    Marimo Moss Balls
    Marimo Moss Balls
    Buy On Amazon
    • Cheap
    • Works great in small spaces

    Let’s cut to the chase with my top picks. The best plant to try for a betta tank is easily the Java Fern. It is available every, you can even get some cuttings from another betta keeper. They are very adaptable plants and easy to maintain.

    Next up we have Anubias. This plant grows stately leaves and is a slow grower, which means you won’t have to prune as much. Like the Java Fern, it is adaptable and hardy. Easy to find as well. The budget option would be the Marimo Moss Balls. While not as easy to find now, it can fit in the smallest of spaces and does a good job of filtering the tank.

    The 11 Best Plants For Betta Fish

    Let’s go over the best plants for betta fish below. I included a video from our channel for visual learners. I go into further detail below. If you like our content, give us a like and sub on our YouTube channel.

    1. Java Fern

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus / Leptochilus pteropus
    • Common Name: Java Fern
    • Origin: Widely distributed in Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-Moderate, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java Fern is an amazing first time planted tank owner. A betta fish tends to be one of the first fish a beginner owns. Java Fern is also a great beginning plant that will be forgiving to many of the newbie mistakes one can make.

    Java fern is a great low light / low energy plant tolerates a wide temperature range and requires no CO2 to grow. It is readily available at most stores and is very affordable. It is the best plant to start with if you want to decorate a betta fish tank and still have a very hardy plant.

    2. Anubias

    Great Beginner Plant
    Anubias Nana
    Anubias Nana

    Hardy, forgiving and easy to grow. The Anubias Nana is your ticket to the incredible hobby that is aquascaping!

    Click For Best Price Buy Tissue Culture
    • Scientific Name: Anubias barteri var. nana
    • Common Name: Dwarf anubias, nana anubias, petite anubias
    • Origin: Cameroon, equatorial West Africa
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anubias is an amazing plant that not only offers a forgiving plant, but has leaves large enough to serve as a hammock. It also comes in multiple varieties and leaf sizes where you purchase the size most appropriate for your betta tank.

    Anubias Barteri is the traditional Anubias with large leaves while Anubias Nana and Anubias Petite are best used in smaller fish tanks. This aquatic plant is very forgiving, will grow in low light, and grows with no CO2. The main issue with this plant is that it grows slow. Because it grows slow, it is prone to algae overtaking its leaves. Consider wiping algae from its leaves or recruiting algae eaters to maintain its health.

    3. Marimo Moss Balls

    Marimo Moss Balls
    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Common Name: Moss balls
    • Origin: Japan
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 78 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for an easy-to-care-for aquatic plant (well actually it isn’t really a plant – it’s algae)? Look no further than the Marimo Moss Ball! This spherical algae ball thrives in any aquarium and grows at a rate of just 5mm per year. As if that wasn’t low maintenance enough, the Marimo Moss Ball is also extremely tolerant to most water conditions.

    Being algae, it does an amazing job of acting as a natural filter for your Betta tank. It will consume ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates in the aquarium. You also can cut them into mats and glue to driftwood and rocks for a moss like appearance. It’s a great plant (algae) to try! So why not add a splash of greenery to your underwater oasis?

    4. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    Low Tech Plant!
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

    Buy Tissue Culture Buy Potted
    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii
    • Common Name: Wendtโ€™s water trumpet, Wendtโ€™s cryptocoryne, Wendtโ€™s crypt
    • Origin: Sri Lanka, Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-high, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii is one of the few rooted plants that work well in Betta tanks. It is a great option for beginners. This easy to grow plant grows at a moderate rate, and can be grown both submerged and emersed. Propagation is also easy – done by simply cutting off new plantlets growing from the mother rhizome.

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii can also grow in a variety of light doing well in high low and low light environments. If you are looking for a rooted plant, this is once of the best suited plants for a betta fish.

    5. Water Sprite

    Water Sprite
    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Ceratopteris thalictroides
    • Common Name: Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern
    • Origin: Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate 30-80 PAR (umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Water Sprite is a popular, fast-growing stem plant that is extremely easy to care for and suitable for beginners. It can grow to a very tall background plant but with frequent pruning, the plant can stay compact and low growing. Like the Marimo Moss balls, it does a great job functioning as a natural filter as it will soak up nutrients

    Water Sprite can also be placed floating on top or sit submerged in water and they’ll still be happy. Just remember that if you let you have them floating the plants underneath can get too much shade, so choose only low light species for any plant that tries to grow below it.

    can be cut and replanted for propagation.

    6. Amazon Sword

    Amazon Sword
    Amazon Sword

    A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Echinodorus amazonicus/ Echinodorus bleheri/ Echinodorus grisebachii
    • Common Name: Amazon sword
    • Origin: Brazil, South America
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 72 – 82 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Amazon sword plants are a great choice for the aquarium hobbyist, being that they’re easy to care for and offer attractive coverage. They grow in an elegant rosette with long leaves that have wavy edges along their pointing tips (and sometimes rounded). The dark or bright green coloration makes the amazon sword stand out amongst other plant life in your setup–a must-have if you want something ornamental!

    Keep in mind that amazon swords grow very tall. They may not be the best choice in smaller tanks, but in tall and medium sized tanks they do very well.

    7. Vallisneria

    Vallisneria
    Vallisneria

    One of the easiest background placement aquarium plants that can be kept. Provides excellent shelter for fish

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria
    • Common Name: Val, Eelgrass, Tape Grass, Jungle Val
    • Origin: Africa, North America, South America, Asia, Australia, Europe
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: low-high, 40-200PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 59. 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Vallisneria is a tall, thin leaf plant that creates a lush, jungle-like appearance in your aquarium. This fast-growing plant anchors deeply into the substrate and thrives on nutrients, making it an ideal choice for any aquarium setup.

    The main issue with this plant when it comes to betta fish is that it prefers a strong current. However, the tall nature of the plant can actually buffer flow for your pet fish so both plant and fish can have their needs met.

    8. Banana Plant

    Banana Plant
    Banana Plant

    A unique looking plant that can be used floating or attached to hardscape.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Glass Aqua
    • Scientific Name: Nymphoides aquatica
    • Common Name: Banana Plant
    • Origin: Southeastern United States
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Medium-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 68 – 81 F
    • Flow Rate: Low, moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Looking for a unique addition to your aquarium? Look no further than the banana plant! Banana Plants are a great addition to any aquarium! These plants are easy to care for, and add a delightful detail to your tank. With long stems and light to dark green leaves, these plants look just like a bunch of bananas.

    These beautiful plants quickly grow tall and will float like lily pads on the surface of your tank. Make sure to prune the leaves occasionally to avoid restricting light to other plants, or bury the stem in the substrate to keep it anchored.

    9. Java Moss

    Java Moss
    Java Moss

    One of the easiest mosses to grow in an aquarium. Great for small fish and shrimp

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Taxiphyllum barbieri
    • Common Name: Java moss
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Low-High, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 64 – 86 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java moss is a unique and versatile aquarium plant that has become one of the most popular mosses used in planted tanks. Its deep green hue and thin fronds make it an ideal choice for enthusiasts of all levels, and Java Moss can be utilized to recreate a variety of styles in a planted tank.

    Java moss is an excellent addition to any aquarium. Its soft, green fronds provide valuable coverage for fry and can help to create an aged look that enthusiasts of all skill levels enjoy. Java moss can also be used in breeding projects and is perfect for wrapping aquascaping rocks or driftwood.

    10. Bucephalandra 

    Bucephalandra
    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

    Click For Best Price Shop Tissue Culture
    • Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
    • Common Name: Buce plant, Buceps
    • Origin: Borneo, Southeast Asia
    • Skill Level: Easy, moderate
    • Light Level: Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 71 – 79 F
    • Flow Rate: Moderate, High
    • CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended

    If you’re looking for an easy plant to start with, look no further than Bucephalandra. These unusual plants come from Southeast Asia, where they grow in shallow water on rocks and driftwood. There’s already a huge variety of cultivars and varieties available, so you’re sure to find the perfect one for your tank. With their broad leaves and beautiful flowers, Bucephalandra are sure to turn heads (and make your fish happy too).

    This aquatic gem can be grown submerged or immersed, making it perfect for beginners. It’s also very slow growing, so you won’t have to worry about it taking over your tank. And if you want to propagate it, it’s easy to do. just cut the rhizome and attach it to driftwood or rocks using super glue gel or thread.

    11. Anacharis

    Anacharis
    Anacharis

    Excellent as a food source and sucks up nutrients in an aquarium. One of the easiest freshwater plants to care for

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon
    • Scientific Name: Egeria densa, Elodea densa
    • Common Name: Anacharis, Elodea, Giant Elodea, Brazilian Elodea, Brazilian Water Weed
    • Origin: South America, Brazil, Uraguay, Argentina, Introduced widely
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Light Level: Moderate-high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • Temperature Range: 50 – 77 F
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anacharis, also known as Egeria Densa, is one of the easiest aquatic plants to keep and highly suitable for beginners thanks to its lack of care requirements. It can be kept free floating in the aquarium or anchored into the substrate depending on preference. Although it prefers cooler water temperatures, it can survive in warm water as well.

    Anacharis is arguably considered the hardiest aquarium plant you can purchase in the trade and handles a variety of conditions. If this is your first time trying live plants, I recommend giving Anacharis a try. you wonโ€™t be disappointed!

    The Challenge

    Keeping aquarium plants with a Betta fish is a different compared compared to most schooling fish you would put in a planted tank. While they aren’t destructive and will not eat your plants, they have specific requirements that make certain plants a better fit for them than others. Let’s go over these specific needs.

    Temperature

    The ideal temperature for a Betta fish is 78 degrees Fahrenheit. Because of this, some plants may not be the best fit as they prefer a lower temperature. This also can made an aquascape style aquarium difficult to maintain as the growth of algae is accelerated with the higher temperatures.

    Knowing this, we will want to work with plants that are okay with the higher temperatures and consider ways to work with the increased algae growth, either by recruiting algae eaters, adding more plants, or getting comfortable with more maintenance to remove the algae.

    They Prefer A Low Light Level

    Betta fish are not comfortable in a high energy high light planted tank. This makes them unsuitable for some types of high end aquascape environments. You can place a Betta fish if you shade with driftwood, rocks, or floating plants.

    Because of this, Betta fish are most compatible with low light plants that do not need a high intensity light level to grow.

    They Prefer Low Flow

    Because most Betta fish are slower moving, they do best in an environment with low flow. Purchasing plants that do well in a low flow environment is ideal in a betta tank. You can also mitigate flow by using floating plants or suppressing your return lines with a spray bar or a sponge.

    Small Tanks

    Many Betta fish owners will place their pets in either a 5 gallon or 10 gallon fish tank. A 5 gallon fish tank is ideal for a single betta while a 10 gallon is where you have enough space to start adding other tank mates like corydoras catfish.

    Because we tend to work with smaller tanks with Bettas, large plants will usually be avoided. We will also look at smaller sub species of plants if they are available.

    Bettas Like To Lounge

    Bettas love to rest on plants. They tend to enjoy floating plants and plants with large leaves so they can lay and lounge on them. Plants like grasses may look good in an aquarium, but won’t serve much utility for your Betta.

    Live Plant Alternatives

    Live plants are great for their benefits and natural setting for your betta fish. However, not everyone wants aquatics plants and not everyone wants to do with the maintenance issues that come with it. Let’s talk about some alternatives.

    Fake Plants

    Fake or artificial plants are a great way to give your betta fish shelter without having to deal with plant maintenance. However, not every artificial plant is a good candidate for your fish. You want to have leaves that have smooth surface and that won’t have rough edges. This will rule our more plastic plants you will find in pet stores.

    You should look to purchase silk plants for a betta fish tank. Marina makes a great line of artificial plants called marine naturals that I would highly recommend.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
    Marina Naturals Plants
    Marina Naturals Plants

    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

    Buy On Amazon

    Aquarium Rocks – Decor Options

    Aquarium rocks serve as a great backdrop in a betta fish tank. Like with fake plants, you will want to make sure your rocks do not have jagged or sharp edges. The classic Seiryu stones are great for aquascaping that work well with bettas as long as you check the surfaces (and smooth out any rough surfaces if need.

    Traditional Seiryu Stone
    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua

    If you want another option, you can try out these Betta caves. Betta enjoy places they can hide and lounge on. Putting one of these in place is a good option especially if you have an all-in-one tank as the fish like to hang by the overflow to hide when they lack a safe space.

    SunGrow Betta Caves
    SunGrow Betta Caves

    These Coconut shells are ideal Betta fish homes. Smooth to the touch, these will not damage your Bettas delicate fins

    Buy On Amazon

    Fake VS Real – What Is Better?

    You will hear this debate often from a simplicity standpoint. Let’s take a look at a comparison of having either or so you can make the most informed decision.

    Live

    Plants are the best to add because they enhance the natural environment of your fish and help to filter our nitrates and phosphates in your aquarium. However, fake plants offers ease of maintenance. Let us look at other pros and cons below:

    Pros

    • Removes nitrates from the water
    • Provides oxygen to the fish
    • Source of entertainment for betta
    • Looks great in the tank
    • Offers a place to hide in

    Cons

    • A plant that requires substrate will require specialized soil
    • Increase tank maintenance
    • A slow-growing plants may develop algae issues due to lack of clean up crews

    Fake Decor

    Fake plants are a good option if you don’t want to prune or maintain aquatic plants. They can also look good if care is taken when choosing the right designs. Here are the pros and cons of using plant imitations in your tank. I got a video from Aquarium Show that discusses silk vs plastic plants as a reminder that silk plants are superior for betta fish.

    Pros

    • Looks great
    • Easy to maintain
    • Offers shelter for your fish

    Cons

    • Some fake plants be expensive
    • There are no benefits to the tank besides contributing to the aesthetics
    • Plastic plants are ill suited for a betta fish

    FAQS

    Do they need plants in their tank?

    No, betta fish don’t require plants in their tank. However, plants will help to clean the water and provide a hiding place for the fish. Plants provide a natural environment for bettas and also help to oxygenate the aquarium water. They also lower stress that can extend the lifespan of your Betta.

    Some good plant choices for a betta tank include Anubias barteri and Java fern. These plants are easy to care for and can thrive in low aquarium light conditions.

    Are real plants good for them?

    Yes, real plants are good for betta fish. They provide them with hiding places and help oxygenate the water. Live plants also help keep the water clean and free of algae by out competing them for nutrients when planted in mass.

    Can I put a bamboo plant in my betta tank?

    Yes, you can. Bamboo plants are a good choice for betta tanks because they produce fresh oxygen and help to reduce the levels of ammonia and carbon dioxide in the water. They also act as a natural filter, helping to remove harmful toxins from the water.

    If you’re using a live bamboo plant in your tank, be sure to add some aquarium gravel or other substrate to the pot to anchor it down. You’ll also need to make sure that the plant is getting enough light – place it near a window or use a grow light if necessary. And finally, be sure to regularly clean the leaves of your bamboo plant with fish safe algae cleaner, a tooth brush, or mild soap and water.

    Are plastic plants OK?

    Plastic plants are non-toxic to betta fish, but generally are not okay for them. This is because plastic plants can have frayed edges that can tear the fins of fancier Betta types. To be on the safe side, consider purchasing artificial plants with smooth edges like silk plants.

    What kind of plants do they like?

    Betta fish like floating plants and large leaves because they provide them with hiding places and places to rest. They also like aquarium plants that are rich in oxygen, so they can get the oxygen they need to breathe. Java fern, Anubias, Hornwort, and Water sprite are all good choices.

    Closing Thoughts

    Betta fish are a unique and interesting addition to any planted tank, but they do have specific needs that should be taken into account when choosing betta fish plants. By understanding what these needs are, you can create or choose a planted tank that is perfect for your betta and will keep them healthy and happy. Have you ever kept aquarium plants specifically with a betta fish in mind? What plants did you choose and why? Let us know in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Japanese Rice Fish (Medaka): Care, Breeding, and the Best Color Morphs

    Having worked with livebearers for over two decades, japanese Rice Fish are the most underrated nano fish in the hobby. Cold-tolerant, surface-dwelling, and available in multiple color strains.

    Rice fish are the low-maintenance nano fish that most people overlook because they are not flashy enough. Their keepers know better.

    Rice fish are the low-maintenance nano fish that most people overlook because they are not flashy enough. Their keepers know better.

    The Japanese rice fish (Oryzias latipes) is a peaceful nano species that is becoming increasingly popular among aquarists. These fish are highly underrated in the hobby, being one of the hardiest coldwater nano fish choices.

    Brief Overview of the Japanese Rice Fish

    Scientific NameOryzias latipes
    Common NamesJapanese rice fish, Japanese killifish, Medaka
    FamilyAdrianichthyidae
    OriginJapan, China, Vietnam, Laos, Taiwan, & Korea
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan2-5 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMidwater, Top
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range61ยฐF. 75ยฐF
    Water Hardness5-25 dKH
    pH Range7.0. 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater, Brackish water
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilitySpecies-only tank or community tank 
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Japanese Rice Fish Origins and Habitat

    Japanese rice fish are small schooling fish that are native to Southeast Asia from eastern China and eastern Korea to Japan and Vietnam. Phylogenetic analysis has shown that there are actually 33 closely related species in the genus Oryzias.

    The Japanese rice fish has a rich history in the aquarium hobby. They have been a favorite among Asian aquarists for centuries! These celebrated fish look amazing when viewed from above, which was important before glass fish tanks became available.

    Rice fish are highly adaptable fish that are found in a variety of habitats like rice paddies and shallow rivers. They occur naturally in both freshwater, and brackish water where fresh and saltwater mix according to the tides. Check out the video above from my YouTube channel. There is more information on this post so let’s keep reading on!

    What Do They Look Like?

    Japanese Rice Fish in Planted Tank

    The first thing you might notice about rice fish is that they are almost transparent! They also have beautiful big blue eyes.

    Japanese rice fish have been selectively bred to produce beautiful and fairly stable color varieties. There are hundreds of known rice fish breeds, but the following types are most accessible in the hobby.

    • Pink Medaka Rice Fish

    This variety is one of the most colorful ricefish available in the hobby. The Pink Medaka Rice Fish have an orange-pink body color that brings life to any fish tank.

    • Galaxy Medaka

    The galaxy rice fish has a whitish body color. Under good lighting, their scales shine like a rainbow. Like other rice fish varieties, these fish look almost transparent.

    • Red Cap Medaka

    This stunning color form of the Japanese rice fish has an orange/red crown and back that merges into its pearl-colored body. This combination of color contrasts amazingly with their bright blue eyes.

    • Yokihi Medaka Rice Fish

    The Yokihi medaka is a rare breed with beautiful deep orange coloration.

    Other Ricefish Species

    • Javanese Medaka Rice Fish

    The Javanese rice fish (Oryzias javanicus) is actually a different species from the Japanese rice fish. These beautiful little fish are from more tropical areas and are suitable for heated tropical fish tanks. It is told from the Japanese rice fish by its deeper body shape and pointed tail fin.

    • Woworae Medaka Rice Fish

    The woworae, or Daisy’s blue rice fish (Oryzias woworae) is one of the most colorful tropical Asian medakas in the genus Oryzias. This awesome little nano species wows fishkeepers with its bright orange body trim and pectoral fins. The males, in particular, have a beautiful blue glowing body color, although both sexes boast bright blue eyes.

    How Big Are They

    Medaka are very small fish that reach a maximum length of between 1 and 1.4 inches. Their small size and hardiness make them great fish for nano tanks.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Rice fish, like most nano species, are not particularly long-lived fish. With good care, however, these fish can live for as long as 5 years. The most important factors that affect the longevity of your fish are:

    • Water quality
    • Water temperature and parameters
    • Feeding
    • Disease & stress prevention

    Fish Temperament and Activity Level

    medaka fish

    Japanese ricefish are relatively active little fish that spend most of their time in the midwater of the aquarium. It is best to keep your ricefish in a group of at least 8.

    They are not shy if kept in a comfortable environment and will be found schooling together in an open area of the tank outside of the current created by your filter. Rice fish are very peaceful, so you don’t have to worry about any bad behavior in a community fish tank.

    Interestingly, the hardy and adaptable nature of these fish have made them a popular model for scientific research and education. Believe it or not, they were the first vertebrate species to be bred in space!1

    What Are Good Tank Mates for Them?

    Japanese rice fish are very peaceful creatures that get along great with other species of fish in a community tank. They are very small, so it’s important to avoid larger fish that might see them as dinner.

    Choosing fish that are similar or the same size is the best way to avoid any disappearances, but there are other factors you need to consider when planning a peaceful community.

    Firstly, Japanese ricefish are cold water fish, so they should not be kept in water temperatures higher than the mid-70s. They may survive in a tropical setup, but their lifespan will probably be reduced, so keep them on the cooler side.

    The fact that they thrive in cooler water temperatures is actually a real bonus for aquarists looking to set up a cold water community tank. Let’s take a look at some of the freshwater fish species that you can keep with medaka.

    Best Tank Mates

    Least Compatible Fish for Companions

    What Do They Eat?

    Ricefish are not very picky when it comes to diet. The most important factor to consider is their small size.

    Ricefish is fed a diet of dried prepared foods like pellets, granules, or flakes. Flakes can easily be crushed up, but harder foods like pellets need to be very small.

    Rice fish are said to be omnivorous, which means they are both animal and plant eaters. Small insects and other tiny animals are an important component of their diet, and these should be provided as a supplement to keep them in great health. This is also very important to bring your ricefish into top breeding condition. A good staple food to try would be Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula.

    Great For Nano Fish
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano
    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.

    Buy On Amazon

    Here are a few great supplementary frozen and live foods that you can provide:

    • Blood worms
    • Brineshrimp
    • Daphnia
    • Grindal worms
    • Small vegetables

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    Aquarists often make the mistake of overfeeding their pets. This can result in obesity, and more importantly, reduced water quality. So how do you know how much food to provide?

    Feeding them more than once a day is a great tip. Providing a small amount that they can finish in just a minute or so will prevent any uneaten food from sinking to the bottom or getting sucked into your filter.

    If your medaka fish are colorful, growing, healthy, and active, you know you’re keeping them well fed!

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Japanese ricefish are very easy to care for and will thrive in a variety of setups. In fact, many aquarists keep these hardy freshwater fish outdoors in ponds and containers.

    They will thrive in any setup that provides an environment that is similar to their natural habitat. In this section, you can learn how to set up a great tank for your rice fish, so let’s get started!

    Tank Size

    Rice fish are a nano species that can survive in aquariums as small as a few gallons or as big as outdoor ponds! I would recommend starting out with a tank of 10 gallons or larger, however, because this provides enough swimming space for a nice school while being stable enough to maintain water quality.

    More important than the size of the tank is its cover. These little jumpers can easily escape out of an open aquarium, so make sure it has a secure lid.

    Aquarium Plants

    Rice fish absolutely thrive in a planted aquarium. They feel more comfortable with floating plants on the water surface. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep medaka, without live plants, however.

    You might think growing live plants requires special lighting, equipment, and soils, but that doesn’t have to be the case.

    Start out with a few easy aquarium plants like Java ferns and anubias to green up your aquarium. These plants will grow under standard aquarium lighting if tied to your hardscape.

    Great For Beginners!
    Java Fern
    Java Fern

    Java Fern is one of the easiest and hardiest live plants you can purchase

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    If you want to upgrade your tank into an amazing underwater aquascape, you can look at starting a tank with decent aquarium soil, good quality lights, and a pressurized CO2 injection system.

    Substrate

    A darker, natural colored substrate bring out the best color in aquarium fish, and also makes them feel more at ease. Any aquarium-safe substrate is used, however, since ricefish will not spend much time at the bottom of the tank.

    If you’re setting up a planted aquarium, starting out with a quality aquarium soil will provide the best results. Alternatively, a well-rinsed sand or gravel substrate will work great.

    Decor

    Arranging some rocks or driftwood in the aquarium is a great way to make a natural environment for all the fish, and a more attractive aquarium for you to look at too. Be sure to use clean, aquarium-safe materials and place them carefully to prevent any damage to the glass.

    Water Quality

    Keeping the water clean and safe is the next priority after setting up a great tank for your ricefish. The tank should be fully cycled before introducing the fish. Check out this article if you’d like to learn more about the aquarium cycle and why it’s so important.

    Let’s take a look at how to keep your cycled aquarium safe and healthy for your fish.

    Filtration

    Many aquarists will tell you a filter is not essential for keeping ricefish. I recommend good filtration for all aquariums just because they are so effective for maintaining the nitrogen cycle, aerating the water, and of course, filtering out particles and impurities in the water.

    A simple sponge filter works great, but if you plan on keeping many fish or a community setup, consider upgrading to a canister filter. Both of these filter types create very little flow, which is ideal for these freshwater fish that prefer living in calm water.

    Water Parameters

    One of the great things about ricefish is how hardy and adaptable they are. Chances are, the temperature in your home is very comfortable for them, and this means most keepers don’t need aquarium heaters.

    Here are the most important water parameters that you should maintain for your rice fish:

    • Water Temperature: 61ยฐF. 75ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Hardness: 5-25 dKH
    • Ammonia: 0 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Nitrate: < 20 ppm

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Keeping your aquarium clean and healthy is the most important thing you can do for your ricefish. Here are some of the steps you’ll need to take:

    • Perform a regular water change every week or two
    • Suck up uneaten aquarium fish food and waste from the substrate with your gravel vac
    • Clean your aquarium glass with an algae scraper when necessary
    • Rinse out your filter media with old tank water on a regular basis

    Test Tank Conditions

    The only way to really know if your water parameters are suitable for your ricefish is by testing your water regularly. This will also tell you if your maintenance schedule is up to scratch.

    Testing your water is easy with an aquarium test kit. These kits come in liquid or strip form and are easy (and fun) to use.

    Breeding

    Rice fish are easy to breed in the home aquarium. Read on to learn how (I’ve also provided a video from Aquaviva below)!

    Sexing

    Of course, you’re going to need both male and female ricefish if you want them to reproduce. But how do you know which sex they are? Here’s what to look for:

    • Adult female rice fish are larger than males
    • Females often carry eggs on their anal fins
    • Males tend to be more colorful
    • Males have a small bump on the body in front of the anal fins
    • Male ricefish also have longer rays in the dorsal and anal fin

    Getting Ricefish Ready to Breed

    Conditioning your fish is very important since unhealthy ricefish will produce fewer eggs, or they might not reproduce at all. Feed your fish a healthy diet of frozen and live food before you plan on breeding them to increase your success rate.

    The Breeding Process

    Once the female is in breeding condition, she will lay eggs every day for several weeks or even months. The male fertilizes them and then the adhesive eggs are deposited on fine-leaved plants like Java moss.

    Spawning mops made from green wool or synthetic fibers can also be used to simulate a live plant.

    Caring For Fry

    The fertilized eggs will hatch after 2 weeks or so. The fry will need to be fed infusoria or liquid fry foods due to their small size. Live plants and the tiny animals that grow on them can provide a great natural food source too.

    The fry are vulnerable to larger fish at this age, which is why spawning them in a dedicated spawning tank is the safest option. The fry grow quickly, however, and can reach maturity in less than 6 months.

    Health and Disease

    Japanese rice fish are very hardy, but there is always a chance that your fish may develop health problems. Read on to learn more about what to look out for.

    Evaluating Your Ricefishesโ€™ Health

    The easiest way to assess the health of your fish is to observe their physical characteristics and their behavior. Fish that are hiding, breathing rapidly, or have lost all of their usual colors are showing signs of stress.

    Flashing against the substrate, floating, or sinking are other common signs of distress. Observing your fish often will help you pick up problems early, and allow you to notice changes over time.

    Common Ricefish Health Issues

    Where To Buy

    You don’t have to travel to Japan to get your own beautiful medaka rice fish. Sure, they aren’t always the easiest fish to find at your local pet store, but in today’s world of online fish stores, that’s no problem at all! You can click the link below to check out the variety of rice fish available for sale by our partners.

    Japanese Rice Fish
    Japanese Rice Fish

    Japanese rice fish are a commonly overlooked fish suitable for freshwater aquascapes. Very peaceful and hardy fish that color up with companions

    Click For Best Price

    Frequently Asked Questions

    What do they eat?

    Japanese ricefish are not fussy when it comes to food. Feed them a regular diet of flakes or micro pellets. Providing live foods like baby brine shrimp and micro worms is a great way to keep them in perfect health.

    Are ricefish aggressive?

    Rice fish are not aggressive at all. These peaceful nano fish are great community tank mates.

    Why are they called ricefish?

    Rice fish get their name from their habit of living in rice paddies. These are shallow swamps where the rice plant is grown.

    Are ricefish the same as killifish?

    Ricefish may look and act a lot like killifish but they are not all that closely related. Genetic research has shown that ricefish are in the Adrianichthyidae family while killifish are in other families like the Aplocheilidae and Fundulidae.

    How long do ricefish live?

    You can expect your ricefish to live for a few years if you provide it with the right care. Their expected lifespan is anything from 2 to 5 years.

    Closing Thoughts

    Medaka rice fish are kept everywhere from Japan to space! It’s a shame that these coldwater nano fish aren’t better known, but fortunately, they have become more accessible all over the world in modern times.

    Do you keep Japanese rice fish? Let us know about your experiences with these nano fish in the comments below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • The 4 Major Types of Coral: A Reefer’s Practical Guide

    The 4 Major Types of Coral: A Reefer’s Practical Guide

    If your parameters are not stable, this coral will not survive the first month. Corals do not die from wrong numbers. They die from unstable numbers. The difference between a thriving reef and a dying one is consistency, not perfection.

    Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

    What Exactly Is Coral?

    Live corals are the crown jewels of the natural marine world, but what exactly are they?

    This marine life comes in all shapes and sizes and is found in almost all saltwater ecosystems. Some corals live in the most tropical and shallow waters getting direct sunlight while others can withstand freezing temperatures and complete darkness. Through all their differences, they are connected.

    Corals are animals. They are not plants and they are not parts of the rock. Instead, they are marine species that lack a vertebral column, making them a type of invertebrate. More specifically, corals belong to the phylum Cnidaria, which is a large taxonomic group that contains over 11,000 species of coral, jellyfish, gorgonian, and anemone.

    The most outstanding feature of this phylum is their inclusion of stinging cells called cnidocytes; these are what give jellyfish their stinging tentacles. There are different types of cnidocysts including nematocysts which contain venom, spirocysts which are very sticky, and ptychocysts which help the animal build a protective tube. All corals have cnidocytes though not all are dangerous to humans.

    From Cnidaria, corals is broken into different categories.

    Corals belong to the Anthozoa class of Cnidaria. Of the 6,000 different known species of marine life in this group, corals make up over a third of its members. Even further, the Anthozoa class is broken into two main subclasses1 which then contain different species:

    • Octocorallia subclass
    • Hexacorallia subclass

    Octocorallia subclass

    The differences between these two groups are mainly in appearance and growth pattern.

    As its name suggests, corals in the Octocorallia subclass have eight tentacles and form colonies. These tentacles grow in a pinnate fashion, meaning opposite from one another. This group includes species of gorgonian, organ pipe coral, as well as the Alcyonacea order of soft corals.

    For the most part, the majority of soft corals belong to the Alcyonacea order. These corals lack a complete hard calcium carbonate skeleton but contain small sclerites that give them some structure. Instead, they have very fleshy individual polyps that are easy to divide and reproduce.

    Some of the most recognizable species in the Octocorallia subclass are:

    Hexacorallia subclass

    The Hexacorallia subclass features tentacles in multiples of six that do not grow in a pinnate fashion. These corals may grow alone or in colonial forms and are known as reef-building corals due to their internal calcium carbonate skeleton. The Hexacorallia subclass contains some of the most recognizable species of hard and stony corals.

    Though this subclass is known for having hard structures, zoanthids belong to the Zoantharia order under this categorization as well; zoanthids are colloquially known as soft corals in the aquarium hobby, though they may incorporate sand and other stronger materials into their flesh for some support.

    The other order under the Hexacorallia subclass is Scleractinia. The Scleractinia order comprises most of the available coral species in the hobby today, including both large polyp stony coral and small polyp stony coral varieties. As a result, most coral reef ecosystems are built from the hard calcium carbonate skeletons of members from the Hexacorallia subclass.

    Many marine mushrooms also fall under the Hexacorallia subclass in the Corallimorpharia order. These corals lack any sense of hard skeleton structure, which does not allow for a fossil record.

    Here are some of the most recognizable corals within the Hexacorallia subclass:

    Why Is Coral So Important?

    Why Is Coral So Important

    Now that we understand corals on a scientific level, we need to understand how each one of these species plays into their larger ecosystem.

    You might have heard that coral reefs are dying. But what does this mean exactly and why does it matter?

    Coral reef ecosystems are homes to hundreds of animals, plants, and bacteria. These are some of the most unique and biodiverse ecosystems on this planet and extend past their aquatic borders, into estuaries, lagoons, rivers, and beaches.

    Corals reefs provide food and shelter for numerous fish and invertebrates. They also provide food, protection, medicine, and recreational value to humans; corals reefs are natural structures that help preserve shorelines and prevent erosion from oncoming storms and strong tides.

    Not only would entire ecosystems collapse should coral reefs die, but human life for millions would also be severely impacted by dwindling numbers and extinction.

    Why Are The Reefs Dying?

    Coral reefs are in trouble and it’s estimated that 70-90% of coral reef ecosystems will die in the next 20 years. These mass die-offs have largely been attributed to rising ocean temperatures, pollution, ocean acidification, overharvesting, and poor fishing practices.

    Coral death is sudden and irreversible. Corals are animals that have a symbiotic relationship, or beneficial exchange, with a type of algae called zooxanthellae; the coral provides shelter for the zooxanthellae while the algae photosynthesize to make food to share.

    When environmental conditions change and the coral becomes stressed, it will release these zooxanthellae, leaving the coral an empty white calcium carbonate skeleton; this is known as coral bleaching and can only hope to be reversed when the original stressor is corrected.

    Unfortunately, many reefs are already dead or are on their way to becoming fully bleached. Important reef-building corals, like the staghorn coral (Acropora cervicornis) and the elkhorn coral (Acropora palmata), are critically endangered and quickly disappearing.

    Where Can You Find The Reefs?

    The most famous coral reef is the Great Barrier Reef in the tropical waters of the Indo-Pacific off the coast of Australia. This coral reef is so massive that it is seen all the way from outer space!

    Being so large, the Great Barrier Reef is made up of at least 3,000 individual reef systems. It is home to many of the aquarium hobby’s favorite fish and invertebrates, including many types of clownfish, angelfish, and butterflyfish as well as hundreds of different soft and hard corals.

    Other famous tropical reefs include the Tubbataha Reef off of the Philippines, the Raja Ampat Reef off of Indonesia, and the Mesoamerican Barrier Reef off of Mexico. The coral reefs we are used to seeing are along the equator of the Atlantic, Indian, and Pacific Oceans.

    But what about the coral reefs at the bottom of the ocean?

    That’s right! There are coral reefs made of deep-sea species that have evolved to withstand high pressure and low temperatures down to about 6,000 feet towards the ocean floor. These corals do not need light and do not photosynthesize in these deeper waters. Instead, they depend on catching the many small organisms that happen to float past.

    Most of these deep-sea corals is found in the North Atlantic Ocean, though deep-sea coral reefs thrive at great depths throughout many of the world’s oceans.

    4 Types in the Reef Hobby

    Obviously, not all types of coral is kept in the home aquarium, though the list of species and varieties available changes every year. For the most part, new corals are always being added but sometimes trade laws and environmental concerns limit what becomes available when. This can cause big shifts in price and availability, though the focus on aquaculture and sustainable harvesting has grown greatly over the past few years.

    As a result of these sustainable efforts, the many types coral that aquarists love, are inexpensive, and easy to come by. Let’s look at the four main types:

    • SPS Corals
    • LPS Corals
    • Soft Corals
    • NPS Corals

    SPS

    Monti Cap Coral

    Hard corals, also known as SPS corals, are some of the most desirable in the hobby. These reef-building corals are big, colorful, and an indicator of a high-tech and happy system.

    Most hard corals belong to the Scleractinia order. There are two main types of hard corals: branching SPS and encrusting SPS.

    Some of the most popular shallow water species of branching SPS belong to the Acropora, Montipora, Pocillopora, and Seriatopora genera. Some of the most popular species of encrusting SPS belong to the Favia and Echinophyllia genera.

    Regardless of whether you pick a branching or encrusting type of coral, hard coral are very similar in their needs. They are some of the most challenging corals to keep, demanding high lighting, high water flow, and consistent water parameters.

    SPS are regarded as slow-growing as they need to build hard calcium carbonate skeletons. There are a few species, like Montipora and Seriatopora, that seem to grow faster than the others, though those growth rates are relatively slow in comparison to LPS and soft coral species.

    LPS

    Hammer Coral

    LPS corals, or large polyp stony corals, comprise of a large number of species that greatly vary in appearance. Some have long tentacles and aggressive tendencies, like torch corals (Euphyllia glabrescens), while others are compact and nearly harmless, like Blastomussa species.

    These types of coral actually belong to the Scleractinia order along with other hard corals. This discrepancy is largely due to the fleshy large polyps of LPS corals that cover most of their underlying hard skeleton, making them difficult to see. Their needs are also much less demanding than those of related reef-building hard corals.

    Most species of LPS need moderate lighting and moderate water flow. They grow quickly, but not as fast as slow corals as they need to build a calcium carbonate skeleton.

    Soft

    Toadstool Leather Coral

    When talking about soft coral species, LPS and true soft corals are lumped together even though they are in completely different taxonomic subclasses; LPS are part of the Hexacorallia subclass while true soft corals belong to the Octocorallia subclass.

    True soft corals are regarded as some of the easiest corals to keep. They don’t require high lighting, can tolerate low and moderate water flows, and are pretty forgiving about beginner’s mistakes. In addition, they’re very easy to propagate and grow quickly, making them especially inexpensive and readily available.

    Some of the most popular soft coral species may belong to the Sinularia, Capnella, and Sarcophyton genera.

    NPS

    Sun Coral Close Up

    So far we know soft corals, LPS corals, and SPS corals, but there’s actually a fourth kind of coral that is seen in the aquarium hobby: nonphotosynthetic (NPS) corals.

    In terms of difficulty, soft corals are the easiest followed by LPS corals. The most advanced hobbyists will keep SPS-dominant systems or mixed reefs that contain all three. NPS corals are much more niche, though, and can certainly prove to be some of the most difficult.

    NPS corals do not have zooxanthellae (azooxanthellate) and need to obtain food through other means, mostly by catching available microorganisms in the water column. This means that a lot of food needs to be available a lot of the time in stable water parameters, making them almost as challenging as some of the more difficult hard coral species.

    There is no denying that NPS corals are some of the most unique types of coral available. They come in bright, almost fluorescent, colors and have interesting polyp shapes that allow for optimal feeding. They will be mistaken as a type of soft coral to the untrained eye.

    Hobbyists have come up with some solutions for keeping their NPS corals fed, but many fail and lose their corals within a matter of months. Daily broadcast feeding is a must. It is even better if food intake is controlled by using a plastic or glass container to cover the coral for more direct feedings.

    In general, NPS corals are rare to come by in the average aquarium store because of their dietary needs. However, here are some of the species you’re likely to come across if you do:

    • Sun coral (Tubastraea spp.)
    • Fat head dendro (Dendrophyllia spp.)
    • Carnation coral (Dendronephthya spp.)
    • Chili coral (Nephthyigorgia spp.)
    • Some gorgonians

    Each species of NPS will come with its own set of difficulties, though sun corals are regarded as one of the easier types of coral in this category.

    Wild-Caught vs. Maricultured vs Aquacultured

    When shopping for corals, where they come from matters. Most types of coral that are available in the aquarium hobby once originated from the Indo-Pacific. Some are still wild-caught directly from these tropical coral reefs, while other species have been mariculture or aquacultured.

    Wild-Caught

    In reality, there are few benefits to buying wild-caught corals.

    Some of the reasons for doing so include rarity and variety. Different species may be rare due to being newly introduced into the hobby or being difficult to propagate in the aquarium setting. Many corals also differ in appearance depending on the area of collection, which is appealing for some hobbyists that are looking for something uncommon.

    Collecting corals from the wild has a significant impact on ecosystems, though. Remember, these animals are already suffering from global warming and overharvesting and removing them more is not helping.

    In addition, wild-caught coral species come with a lot of problems: parasites, difficulty acclimating, and expense. It is safe to assume that any type of wild-caught coral bought will arrive with parasites or hitchhikers, requiring quarantine. The quarantine will also help ready your new coral for the display tank as they are extremely sensitive to changes in light, water flow, and parameters.

    Lastly, wild-caught corals are more expensive than maricultured or aquacultured ones. This is due to vendors having to take the risk of importation and acclimation. Not to mention that coral importation laws can change at any given moment.

    Maricultured

    Maricultured types of coral are a decent alternative to wild-caught corals, but they still come with a lot of problems. In theory, mariculture is the best of both worlds, growing corals in their natural shallow water ecosystems with the intent to collect.

    These coral farms are out in the wild, providing food and shelter for surrounding fish and invertebrates while also supporting local commerce when sold to hobbyists. Even better than that, these corals can easily be placed back onto the reef to start rebuilding damaged and dead ecosystems.

    However, the transfer from the wild coral reef to the home aquarium is still difficult and pests and acclimation are still problematic. Though maricultured are much more sustainable than wild-caught ones, they still carry inflated prices and increased risk.

    Aquacultured

    Aquacultured species are arguably the most sustainable, hardy, and attainable types of coral available to the average hobbyist. These corals are fully grown in captivity, far away from the sanctuary of the coral reef.

    Over the past few years, more and more coral species have been successfully aquacultured. This allows vendors to quickly and infinitely harvest corals in safe and controlled conditions, lowering costs and nearly eliminating the need for prolonged acclimation. What you see is what you get with these types of coral, with little worry of changing colors, pests, or sudden death.

    Other Invertebrates

    Though corals get all the spotlight in the coral reef aquarium, there are many other invertebrates that make these fragile systems work as they should. Some of these helpers include clams, sponges, anemones, and marine worms.

    It should be noted that most of these invertebrates are filter feeders to some extent, making their care even more challenging than that of some types of coral.

    Clams

    Clam in Reef Tank

    In recent years, clams have made their way into many home reefs. The majority of marine clams available are members of the Tridacna genus, namely the maxima clam (Tridacna maxima) and the crocea clam (Tridacna crocea).

    Marine clams are arguably even more difficult than all types of coral, making them an unrealistic addition for most average hobbyists. These invertebrates require high lighting, moderate water flow, and constant feedings.

    Interestingly, these clams also share a symbiotic relationship with zooxanthellae similar to photosynthetic corals: the zooxanthellae are protected while the clam is fed. However, like other clams, Tridacna species are filter feeders that will quickly strip the water column of any and all food.

    With the addition of their potentially large sizes, marine clams are limited to only the most expert hobbyists.

    Sponges

    Sponges are definitely one of the most underrated invertebrates in the aquarium hobby, but surprisingly difficult to keep. That being said, they are a very common hitchhiker, though most don’t survive due to limited food availability or natural predators that are already in the tank; many fish and other invertebrates won’t hesitate to munch away on small pieces of sponge.

    Sponges also require moderate water flow to ensure that planktonic foods are always being passed through and that wastes are being carried away. Though some sponges are photosynthetic, they need to be able to get sufficient food from the surrounding aquarium water alone.

    Anemones

    BTA

    Everyone wants an anemone until it becomes too much–which can happen rather quickly.

    But what is a clownfish without an anemone? Probably better off, and here’s why.

    Anemones are members of the Hexacorallia subclass in the Cnidaria phylum meaning that they’re related to many of the other types of coral found in the aquarium; this is also why they have similar stinging cells and are photosynthetic from symbiotic algae.

    The main problem with sea anemones is that they are mobile. Most corals are sessile invertebrates that will stay in one given location, moving or simply dying if conditions become unfavorable. Instead, anemones have the ability to detach their foot and float with the current until landing in a more desirable location. In the aquarium, this could mean landing on top of and stinging other corals.

    In addition, anemones is pretty demanding when it comes to lighting, water flow, and water parameters. They are definitely more appropriate for experienced hobbyists, which limits many beginner hobbyists who want to try the anemone and clownfish pairing.

    The other major problem is that they are quick to spread. Though propagation is a sign of good health, it can quickly become unmanageable. Many hobbyists need to constantly find new homes for their sea anemones, which is difficult to remove from the rock and handle afterward.

    If you’re up to the challenge, then some of the most popular species of anemone are:

    • Rose/green bubble tip anemone (Entacmaea quadricolor)
    • Rock flower anemone (Epicystis crucifer)
    • Sebae anemone (Heteractis crispa)
    • Long tentacle anemone (Macrodactyla doreensis)

    Marine Worms

    Feather Duster Worm

    There are thousands of species of marine worm with some being incredibly helpful, like the bristle worm, and others being slightly terrifying, like the bobbit worm (Eunice aphroditois). Hobbyists have managed to find the most beautiful of worms and incorporated them into the home coral reef aquarium.

    Some of these marine worms are feather dusters (Sabellastarte spp.), coco worms (Protula magnifica), and Christmas tree worms (Spirobranchus giganteus).

    Just like the other invertebrates on this list, marine worms are filter feeders, pulling planktonic foods out of the water column. However, marine worms are not corals and are in a different taxonomic phylum altogether called Annelida. They are not photosynthetic and will need to be fed a vast array of supplemented foods instead.

    When stressed, some marine worms have the ability to drop their crown. It is unlikely for the animal to recover after this, so remove the crown and tube as soon as possible to prevent an ammonia spike.

    Final Thoughts

    Accurate replication of the coral reef ecosystem has long been the goal of many saltwater enthusiasts. From soft corals to hard corals, these marine animals bring a dimension to the display tank that can’t be understated. With so many types to choose from, there truly is a coral species for everyone at every level.

    Before choosing a coral to bring home, make sure to research how these corals are being collected. We can all do our part to save the remaining coral reef ecosystems of our world’s oceans.

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Flame Angelfish Care: What Every Reefer Should Know Before Buying

    Flame Angelfish Care: What Every Reefer Should Know Before Buying

    The flame angelfish is one of the most visually striking dwarf angels you can put in a reef tank. that bright orange-red body with black vertical bars is genuinely hard to beat. In my experience, they’re also one of the more commonly impulse-purchased reef fish, and that’s where trouble starts. The big thing people overlook is the coral-nipping risk. Like most dwarf angels, flame angels can develop a taste for soft corals and LPS, and once they start it’s nearly impossible to stop. That doesn’t mean you can’t keep them in a reef, but it does mean you need to go in with realistic expectations and a plan. Here’s everything I know about keeping them successfully.

    The flame angelfish is reef safe until it decides it is not. That decision is permanent.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCentropyge loricula
    Common NamesFlame angelfish, flaming angelfish, flame angel
    FamilyPomacanthidae
    OriginCountry – Pacific Ocean
    DietOmnivore
    ColorsReds, yellows, oranges, purples, blacks
    Care LevelIntermediate
    TemperamentSemi-Aggressive
    Minimum Tank Size70 gallons
    Max Size4 inches
    Temperature Range76. 82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0. 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Reef SafeWith caution
    Available As Tank Breed?Available

    Origins And Habitat

    As one of the most colorful fish in the entire saltwater aquarium hobby, the flame angelfish comes from the tropical waters of the Pacific Ocean. These marine fish have a very wide natural range, taking to the shallow lagoons and reefs of tropical island ecosystems, like the Great Barrier Reef. Flame angels are highly dependent on the reef for food and shelter and rarely venture deeper than 60 meters in depth.

    Interestingly, these dwarf angels form harems with one male for every 2-6 females. Like most other saltwater fish that form harems, flame angelfish are hermaphrodites. This means that all flame angels are born with male and female reproductive organs, though their external appearances are nearly identical; this can make it difficult to form harems in the reef tank setting.

    As environmental and social changes occur, the largest and most colorful flame angelfish will assume the position of the male in the harem; this could be caused by a sudden death of the previous male or external factors, like resource availability or mating patterns.

    In the aquarium, this sex change is unlikely to occur to your flame angelfish. As we’ll see, flame angels cannot be kept together due to various aquarium limitations, though some hobbyists have been successful. This makes for an otherwise stable environment where the flame angelfish does not need to adapt so drastically by changing its sex.

    What Do Flame Angelfish Look Like?

    Flame Angel

    Flame angelfish are one of the brightest and most appealing fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish have bold colorations and stay under 4 inches when fully grown, making them a suitable addition to the saltwater aquarium for the average hobbyist.

    The flame angelfish has a compact body, with rounded dorsal and ventral fins. The overall color is a bright red, with several vertical black stripes along the side of its body. The middle portion of the body may be more orange or red than the rest, along with the caudal fin. The outer margins of the dorsal and anal fins may have electric blue or purple accents.

    Color and intensity will greatly depend on the lights being used on the reef tank and the quality of diet.

    The flame angelfish is a dwarf angelfish species. They have a very similar body shape and temperament to the closely related coral beautiful angelfish (Centropyge bispinosa). Though these fish may be smaller than their full-sized angel counterparts, they are still active fish that need a decent amount of aquarium space.

    Coral Beauty Species

    In comparison, coral beauties are slightly less desirable than the flame angelfish for the reef tank. However, they’re still one of the most beautiful fish available in the hobby and within the price range and care requirements that the average hobbyist can afford and provide.

    Coral beauty angelfish have a more concentrated natural range throughout the Indo-Pacific. They grow to be about 4 inches and require a 70 gallon tank or more. They have a deep purple body with many thin black lines across the middle of their body; this area is lighter in color, ranging from dull yellow to intense oranges. Their behavior is nearly identical to that of the flame angelfish, though they can sometimes be shyer in personality.

    It is also believed that coral beauties are slightly more reef-safe than their more colorful counterparts. Still, there is no guarantee that a coral beauty will leave all the corals in the tank alone for an indefinite period of time and caution is needed.

    These dwarf angelfish have also been successfully captive-bred, which lessens environmental impact and increases overall hardiness and availability.

    Tank Requirements

    Though small, the flame angelfish can be more challenging to keep than the average community fish. This is largely due to their level of activity, green-based diet, and semi-aggression.

    At the bare minimum, dwarf flame angels need 70 gallons or more. For many years, these reef fish were believed to be a nano tank fish species that could fit into small aquariums under 40 gallons. As hobbyists began to understand their true needs, it was revealed that they are very active swimmers that heavily rely on the live rock for food and protection.

    Like larger angels, flame angelfish are algae grazers. They will spend their time weaving in and out of the live rock, looking for food. Unfortunately, this also sometimes includes sessile invertebrates which don’t make them completely reef-safe, though we’ll discuss more later.

    Otherwise, flame angels don’t require much. They can be slightly more sensitive to changes in water parameters than other fish species but will show their best colors when happy.

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    Yes, flame angelfish are relatively easy to keep. They’re not as hardy as other community fish, like clownfish, but they don’t require any special water parameters or diet.

    That being said, flame angelfish should not be attempted as one of the first additions to a new aquarium. Not only is water quality subject to change during this time, but this stocking sequence can also affect your fish’s ability to adapt to new additions in terms of aggression.

    Are They Prone To Marine Ich?

    For the most part, flame angelfish aren’t any more prone to contracting marine ich than any other saltwater fish. For some reason though, most flame angelfish in-store have often already been affected.

    With any fish, it is always recommended to do a quarantine period before adding the new fish to the display aquarium. Allowing 2-4 weeks of seclusion will let illnesses arise in a safe environment where medications can be freely dosed.

    If your fish does show signs of ich or another parasite while in your display aquarium, it is still strongly recommended to start the quarantine process and dose medications accordingly.

    Marine Ich Symptoms & Cures

    It can be very scary dealing with marine ich for the first time in the aquarium. These parasites are relentless and much more difficult to treat than their freshwater counterparts, which are not closely related at all.

    Unlike freshwater ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis), marine ich cannot be solved with simple water changes and water temperature adjustments. Instead, there is a pretty exact protocol that needs to be followed.

    Marine ich is a type of parasite called Cryptocaryon irritans. The most obvious sign of ich is a sprinkled coating of small white specks that cover the entire body of the fish; these can be especially difficult to see under some aquarium lights and on lighter colored fish bodies.

    Contrary to popular belief, these white spots are not actually the parasite, but a symptom instead; as the parasite digs into the skin of the fish, the body excretes a mucus that causes the signature ich-appearance. These spots might not always be visible as the parasite can internally infect gills. At this stage, the parasite is depending on the fish for survival.

    After this stage, the parasite drops off and attaches to the substrate or another surface. These create daughter parasites that swim until they find another host. This means that ich can be transferred through aquarium water alone while in this life stage.

    Other symptoms of marine ich include:

    • Heavy breathing
    • Discoloration
    • Lack of appetite
    • Flashing
    • Lethargy

    The best way to prevent ich is by stopping it from entering the aquarium altogether. Purchasing from a reputable seller and a subsequent quarantine period will increase the chances of receiving a healthy fish on arrival that can be observed and treated for any given ailments.

    If ich manages to enter the display aquarium, there are few options available to the hobbyist for treatment. All fish must be captured and transferred to a quarantine tank while the main display is left fallow for several weeks. Most prescribed medications are too strong for biological filtration, which could easily wipe out everything that’s living in the display.

    Once in quarantine, there are a few courses of treatment that can be done for marine ich. In general, raising the temperature has little effect on saltwater fish suffering from ich. However, raising the temperature to about 81ยฐF has shown to result in a shorter fallow period needed for the display. The freshwater dip method has also been proven to be ineffective.

    Ich will not treat itself and medication is needed on top of a quality diet and stable water parameters. Some of the recommended medications are copper and chloroquine phosphate.

    One of the least aggressive methods of treatment is hyposalinity. This involves lowering both the pH and salinity over the course of a few days to combat an ich infestation. While this method is very gentle on fish and can be successfully executed in the display aquarium, it can be very difficult to execute with precision.

    This is mainly due to needing exact recordings of water parameters while keeping on top of freshwater top-offs and buffering the pH.

    As mentioned before, flame angelfish can be hardy once established in the aquarium. Though they don’t have the thickest mucus protecting their skin from parasites such as ich, they are not the most susceptible either.

    Temperament

    You never know what you’re going to get when you bring home a flame angelfish (video source). In general, they are regarded as being a semi-aggressive species that might nip at other similar-looking species. This is especially true if hoping to keep the popular combination of flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish together.

    Flame angels and coral beauties have successfully been kept together in the same aquarium, even in those that are probably too small. However, this pairing isn’t recommended unless the aquarium is over 200 gallons.

    The problem is that flame angelfish are generally more aggressive than coral beauties, leaving one fish from this duo to be bullied. A larger tank will allow for territories to be farther apart, decreasing the chances of your fish interacting with each other; it also helps if the fish are added at the same time so that neither one has the upperhand.

    In the wild, flame angelfish are regularly seen in harems. In the reef aquarium setting, very few hobbyists have had luck keeping more than one flame angel per tank.

    In most cases, this would require a very large aquarium, well over 200 gallons. All members of the harem would then need to pick a dominant male, though this can be achieved if you group them together while they’re still young and have time to establish their sexes.

    Are They Reef-Safe?

    Flame angelfish are reef-safe with caution. This is neither a yes nor a no and results will vary from tank to tank.

    There are times when flame angelfish are completely reef-safe, partially reef-safe, or not reef-safe at all. There is no way to know which one your fish will be until it’s too late. If you have any corals, especially soft corals and fleshy large polyp stony (LPS) corals, that you don’t want to lose, do not introduce a flame angel into the system.

    But are there any corals that a flame angelfish will leave alone no matter what?

    What Corals Are Safe With Them?

    If you have a coral-hungry flame angel, then chances are that they’ve destroyed your zoanthid colony. For one reason or another, their favorite coral seems to be expensive zoanthids.

    Unfortunately, there is no way to stop your fish from eating your corals as this change can literally happen overnight. However, there is a good chance that flame angelfish will leave harder corals, like small polyp stony (SPS) corals, alone as opposed to fleshier varieties.

    To help deter your fish even more from going after your corals, feed regularly. This isn’t a foolproof solution but can help keep your fish interested in food other than your corals. Maybe try substituting new foods every now and then to really keep them guessing.

    Tank Mates

    One of the most popular flame angelfish tank mates is the coral beauty; there is no denying that the bright orange and electric purple of these two fish makes for an unparalleled combination in the home aquarium. Sadly, this pairing can only be achieved in larger systems.

    If wanting to keep these two dwarf angelfish species together, a bare minimum tank size of 200 gallons is needed. Still, it is not unheard of for a more aggressive flame angel to harass and kill a coral beauty in these larger setups.

    Otherwise, flame angelfish can hold their own against slightly more aggressive fish but might be too overpowering for more docile species. Good tank mates include:

    Pairing your flame angelfish with other angels is always tricky. As long as the two fish don’t look too similar, there is a good chance that the combination will work.

    Remember that flame angelfish are not 100% reef-safe. They are very likely to pick at and devour soft coral polyps. Flame angelfish typically leave snails and hermit crabs alone but might take interest in small shrimp.

    What Do They Eat?

    As a species of angelfish, flame angels heavily rely on algae and other microscopic flora that can be found growing naturally on the rocks. Because of this, they are not recommended for new aquariums that have little to no established algae growth.

    A happy flame angel can be seen weaving in and out of the live rock, picking at whatever they happen to come across. Just because flame angelfish are algae-eating fish does not mean that they will solve a pest algae problem. For algae problems, first combat unstable or poor water quality and then introduce better biological solutions, like a bristle tooth tang if tank size permits.

    In order to keep their dwarf angelfish constantly fed, many hobbyists leave a piece of seaweed clipped to the side of the tank for regular feedings. In addition, live and frozen foods, like brine shrimp and mysis shrimp, can regularly be given along with a high-quality marine fish flake or pellet. Flame angelfish will also enjoy algae flakes and pellets to meet their omnivorous needs.

    Final Thoughts

    Dwarf flame angelfish have always been a popular addition to the home aquarium, though their care requirements and needs have changed drastically over time. These beautiful fish need a decently sized aquarium with some attention to tank mate stocking. They will also do best when kept in a mature tank that has had time to grow enough algae to keep your angel fed.

    And yes, a flame angelfish and coral beauty angelfish pairing is possible. Tank conditions and individual personalities of fish need to be right to make this combination work, though.

  • 14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    14 Gourami Types: My Picks, the Dwarf Gourami Disease Warning, and What to Actually Buy

    Not all gouramis are created equal. Some are peaceful community fish. Some will destroy everything in the tank. Some carry genetic disease from mass breeding that kills them within a year.

    The gourami you pick determines whether your community tank works or falls apart.

    What Are Gourami Fish?

    Gouramis are freshwater fish from the Osphronemidae family. They originate in South, and Southeast Asian countries, but are such popular aquarium fish that can now be found all over the world. There are over 130 known types of gourami, and many of them are available in the aquarium trade.

    Gouramis are known as labyrinth fish because they have a specialized labyrinth organ that allows them to breathe air. Dissolved oxygen levels are low in their natural habitat which is why these fish have this special adaptation that allows them to take a breath of air from the water surface.

    Gouramis come in all sorts of colors and sizes, from the tiny sparkling gourami at 1.5 inches all the way up to the giant gourami at over 2 feet long! They have distinctive ‘feelers’ which are actually modified pelvic fins.

    In the wild, their natural habitats vary from slow-flowing rivers to shallow swampy areas. Gouramis are actually great parents and many species are bubble nest builders.

    14 Best Gourami Types For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about what gourami fish are and where they come from, it’s time to get to know some species! To get you started, I’ve put together this list of the 14 best gourami species for freshwater aquariums that you can keep.

    For each species, you’ll find a list of important information to help you choose the best gourami for your tank. That list includes:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    I included a video from our YouTube Channel below. If you like it, be sure to subscribe. We upload every week. I go over in more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Honey

    Honey Gourami
    Honey Gourami

    One of the more peaceful Gourami fish available in the hobby. Has a unique yellow coloration and only grows up to 2 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna/ Colisa chuna
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Nepal
    • Temperature: 72-81ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The honey gourami is a great species to start this list! It is a very peaceful fish species that is excellent for beginners. The male honey gourami is much smaller than the female and has bolder colors, but they are both great-looking fish.

    Honey gouramis are excellent nano fish that is kept on their own or in a small group. The honey gourami also makes an ideal tank mate in a community tank if kept with other peaceful fish.

    2. Sparkling

    Sparkling Gourami
    Sparkling Gourami

    A great Gourami for nano tanks. Only grows to 1.5 inches in length

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    • Scientific Name: Trichopsis pumila
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Cambodia, Laos, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sparkling gourami fish is another terrific nano species that seems to burst with color. Their bold looks are accentuated by the gleaming iridescent turquoise sheen on their body and fins.

    Sparkling gouramis are very peaceful fish and is timid if kept with other fish that are larger and more boisterous than themselves. Ideal tank mates include small schooling fish like rasboras, but avoid keeping them with shrimp as they are quite the little hunters!

    3. Licorice

    Licorice Gourami
    Licorice Gourami

    A small gourami that grows to 1.5 inches in length. Prefers to be housed in a planted tank

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    • Scientific Name: Parosphromenus deissneri
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live foods
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 3-6.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The licorice gourami is a spectacular species and one of the few fish that are really suited to nano tanks. These colorful fish don’t need that much room because they stay under 2 inches in length and aren’t very active.

    The licorice gourami is a little tricky to feed because they tend to reject prepared meals like flakes and pellets. This means these tiny fish require daily feedings of live and/or frozen foods like bloodworm, daphnia, and brine shrimp.

    4. Pearl

    Pearl Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus leerii
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4.5 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Thailand, Malaysia, Borneo, Sumatra
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The pearl gourami is a peaceful species that makes a perfect community fish. They are one of the best-looking aquarium fish in the hobby and make an amazing centerpiece fish.

    The male pearl gourami is a little more colorful than the female and has extended fins, but both sexes are very attractive and graceful fish. Pearl gouramis are great fish for beginners, and with a lifespan of up to ten years, they make awesome pets.

    5. Blue

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 35 gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue gourami is a beautiful color morph of the popular three-spot gourami. These stunning fish is pretty aggressive with each other, especially when breeding, and should be regarded as semi-aggressive.

    The blue gourami is still a great species for beginners, as long as they have a big enough tank and their territorial temperament is understood.

    6. Kissing

    Kissing Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Helostoma temminkii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 8-10 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Dried foods, spirulina flakes, vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 71-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    The kissing gourami fish is a very odd-looking freshwater aquarium fish! These have puckered mouths, and even come together to lock lips sometimes. This behavior is thought to have social or even breeding functions.

    These fish also use their strange mouths for feeding on algae and plants, but they is kept safely with some tough aquarium plants like Java ferns. Kissing gouramis are another species that is quite aggressive with other fish, so careful planning is necessary before adding them to community tanks.

    7. Giant

    Giant Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Osphronemus goramy
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 20-28 inches in length (Up to 18 in captivity)
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Feed pellets, frozen foods, and vegetables
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The giant gourami is a huge species that can live for 20 years and makes a great pet. They are very hardy and equally peaceful, although they will eat fish that are small enough to swallow whole.

    The giant gourami grows to over 2 feet in length and needs plenty of space. They grow fast too, so make sure you’re ready for the commitment before bringing one of these gentle giants home.

    8. Powder Blue Dwarf

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The powder blue dwarf gourami is quite a sight with its electric blue color and red accents. They is a good choice for a nano aquarium with the right tank mates.

    The powder blue dwarf gourami is pretty shy and territorial so they should only be kept with other peaceful fish. The females are particularly peaceful and are the best choice for community setups. Alternatively, you can keep these stunning fish in a pair in their own tank, although more fish is kept in large aquariums.

    9. Snakeski

    Snakeskin Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus pectoralis
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 8 to 12 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 72-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.8-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes but might nibble on plants

    The snakeskin gourami, or snakeskin fish, is about the most peaceful gourami species out there, but they are also probably the least colorful. They are pretty large fish that need plenty of space to thrive.

    The snakeskin gourami makes a wonderful community fish, but they may swallow smaller fish and there is a possibility of your plants getting snacked on too!

    10. Gold

    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 5-6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed dried, live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The gold gourami (like the blue gourami) is a variant of the three spot gourami species. These eye-catching fish are a rich golden yellow color with beautiful marbling and spots on their fins and body.

    Gold gouramis (video source) have the same care needs as blue gouramis, as well as the regular three spot gourami and opaline gourami. This is because they are all different color variations of the same species.

    11. Moonlight

    Moonlight Gourami
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster microlepis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with vegetables and live/frozen food
    • Origin: Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand
    • Temperature: 77-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The moonlight gourami might have a little less color than some of the other species on this list but it makes up for it with an amazing silvery-blue/green shine! They also have extra-long feelers (pelvic fins) which are bright red in males.

    Moonlight gouramis do great in community tanks with other peaceful species and is kept in pairs or small groups in a big enough tank.

    12. Sunset

    Sunset Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster labiosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The sunset gourami is one of the best gouramis for a community tank. These golden orange fish is kept in groups without aggression between themselves or their tankmates.

    The sunset gourami is often confused with the sunset variety of the honey gourami, so be sure your fish is correctly labeled!

    13. Flame Dwarf

    https://youtu.be/6jfmLgkEGYU
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.4-3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Feed these omnivorous fish dried food, supplemented with live/frozen food
    • Origin: India, Bangladesh, Pakistan
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The flame dwarf gourami (video source) is a very special breed of the popular dwarf gourami. These fish have spectacular colors and differ from the regular dwarf gourami in having more solid coloration. The body color of the flame gourami is a brilliant golden orange in contrast to the dorsal fin which is electric blue. Dwarf gouramis can also make good tankmates for angelfish.

    14. Blue Paradise

    Blue Paradise Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Macropodus opercularis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 3 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Feed live/ frozen foods, might also accept high quality dried foods
    • Origin: Vietnam, Laos, China, Taiwan
    • Temperature: 50-71ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue paradise gourami is a feisty little species that is also known as the paradise fish. What sets these fish apart is their tolerance for cooler water, so they is kept in an unheated aquarium.

    Paradise fish have amazing color, but they is pretty aggressive around breeding time. The ideal stocking is one male with two or more females because males kept together will fight.

    Tank Setup

    The different types of gourami vary greatly in size, so selecting the right tank size depends on the species you keep.

    Some dwarf species like the sparkling gourami will do great in a ten gallon tank, while the giant gourami will need 250 gallons or more. Most average-sized species, like the pearl gourami, for example, will do best in a 30-gallon tank or larger.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Your choice of substrate is not all that important when it comes to keeping gouramis. Any well-rinsed aquarium substrate of your choice will work fine.

    If you plan on growing live rooted aquarium plants, you may wish to use quality aquarium soil, but otherwise, gravel or aquarium sand will work just fine. I would suggest using darker natural colors to make the fish’s color stand out and help them feel more comfortable.

    Gouramis is quite shy and are easily stressed in an empty tank without decorations. This affects how your fish feel and also how they look because stressed gouramis will not show their best colors.

    Use some driftwood or rocks to create some structure in the aquarium. Large aquarium ornaments are also very useful, just be sure to avoid anything with sharp edges.

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    Live Plants

    Gouramis love a heavily planted tank. Aquatic plants actually have a number of great benefits for your aquarium because they help to oxygenate the water while removing excess nutrients.

    Furthermore, live plants provide natural food sources and structure for your fish to explore and hide in.

    Not all aquarium plants are suitable for beginners, but the following species is grown without any specialized equipment:

    Floating plants are great because they help to make your gouramis feel more comfortable in the aquarium, but they can pose a threat to your fish.

    Gouramis often rise to the top of the aquarium to breathe air with their labyrinth organ, so it is crucial that they can get to the surface. Make sure your floating plants don’t cover the water’s surface completely.

    If you’re interested in growing a wider range of plants, check out some of my plant profiles for great tips!

    Lighting & Filtration

    Most gouramis will be more confident in lower light situations. Bright lighting in a heavily planted tank is perfectly fine, however, because dense plant growth will provide the fish with plenty of cover and shade.

    Gouramis are found in still or slow-flowing water bodies, so it is important to keep the water flow down in the aquarium. You can do this by running a sponge filter, but there are also ways to manage the current generated by a power filter or hang-on back design.

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    Most power filters have adjustable water outputs so you can slow the current. You can also aim the outflow at a hardscape feature like driftwood or rocks to break up the water flow. Running a spray bar with a canister filter is another great way to keep the water current gentle.

    Care

    Gouramis are relatively easy to care for if you start out with the right kind of setup. That’s not all these fish need to thrive, however, so read on for more details on their behavior, feeding, and care needs.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    No guide to aquarium fish care would be complete without mentioning aquarium maintenance. Follow these steps to keep your fish healthy and your aquarium looking great!

    You’re going to need to perform a weekly or twice monthly water change to manage the nitrates in your water and remove all the solid waste particles that have settled on the substrate, hardscape, and plants.

    To do this, you’ll need a gravel vacuum to suck up the waste and the old water. Remove 10-25% of your water during each change and be sure to test for nitrates before and after with your water test kit. Ideally, you want to keep your nitrate levels down to 20 ppm or less.

    Before adding new water to the tank, make sure it is at a similar temperature to the old water, and use a conditioner to neutralize any harmful chemicals dissolved in your tap water.

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    Behavior & Feeding

    Most types of gourami are peaceful fish, but some is semi-aggressive around breeding time. Do not keep more than one male in the same aquarium unless it is a very large tank, as they tend to become territorial and fight when space is limited.

    The more aggressive species to note are:

    • Kissing gourami
    • Three spot gourami
    • Blue paradise gourami/ paradise fish

    Although it shouldn’t be seen as aggressive behavior, some of the larger species might snack on smaller fish and fry if they can. Freshwater shrimp can also be part of the menu.

    Most gouramis are omnivorous, which means they feed on both plant and animal matter. Smaller species like the licorice gourami and chocolate gourami are predators that feed on small invertebrates.

    Most species will thrive on a diet of prepared dried foods, supplemented with frozen and live foods and vegetables. These supplements improve the general health of the fish, and you will see this by the enhanced colors they develop.

    Some of the more specialized species like the chocolate gourami is more challenging because they don’t accept prepared foods and require live or frozen foods on a daily basis.

    Breeding

    Gouramis are fairly easy to breed and make a great breeding project. Let’s take a closer look at how to breed these fish in the home aquarium.

    Before attempting to breed your fish, it is very important to get them in top physical condition. You can do this by improving their diet with more live foods and vegetables. A healthy, well-conditioned pair can then be moved to a breeding tank.

    It is tough to tell female gouramis from males. The female will look heavier when she is in breeding condition and carrying eggs.

    The males often have more pointed fin margins than the females. In some species, like the honey gourami, the male is a lot more colorful.

    A shallow breeding tank of just 6 inches or so is the ideal setup. The water flow should be slow so an air-powered sponge filter is an ideal choice for this low water volume. The water in the breeding tank should be on the warm side, in the lower 80’s Fahrenheit.

    Most gouramis are bubble nesting fish. The bubble nests are built by the male, and after spawning, he will collect the eggs and attach them to the underside of the nest. At this point, you can move the female out of the breeding tank, her side of the job is done!

    These fish build their bubble nests on floating plants in nature, and this works great in the aquarium too. They will attach their nests to other floating objects, however, and many aquarists have had success with simple pieces of foam.

    Once the eggs have hatched, you can feed the free-swimming fry infusoria, baby brine shrimp, and other food sources like prepared liquid fry foods.

    Tank Mates

    Most types of gourami will do great in a community tank with other community fish. Choosing compatible and peaceful tank mates is always important of course.

    Suitable tank mates should be similar-sized fish that they cannot swallow, or be swallowed by! Aggressive fish and fin nippers should also be avoided.

    Some types of gourami will do best when kept in a species-only setup without other fish. The following species make ideal tank mates for the more peaceful gouramis:

    Where To Buy

    Gouramis are some of the most popular freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby, so they are pretty easy to find. You can take a look at your local fish store or simply order your fish online.

    Buying livestock online is easier than ever these days, and trusted retailers in the field like Flipaquatics.com stock a great range of gouramis at great prices!

    FAQS

    How many should be kept together?

    Sometimes it is best to keep just one gourami in a tank to avoid the chance of aggression – it all depends on the species.

    This is especially true with males. Females gourami fish tend to be much more peaceful so it is often possible to keep a small group together.

    How many of the dwarf variety should be kept together?

    It is best to keep just a pair of dwarf gouramis in the same tank. This is because some individuals do become a little territorial and aggressive. It is possible to keep more in a large aquarium with plenty of plants and cover, however.

    What is the most aggressive?

    The paradise fish is probably the most aggressive gourami. The popular three-spot gourami (blue gourami, gold gourami, opaline gourami, etc. ) also has some aggressive tendencies, especially around breeding time.

    Are they aggressive?

    Gouramis are peaceful fish, but some species is semi-aggressive. Most fighting happens between male gouramis, so it is often safer to avoid keeping two males in the same aquarium.

    What is the smallest variety?

    Sparkling gouramis and licorice gouramis are the smallest species you are likely to come across in the hobby. These nano fish reach about 1.5 inches when fully grown.

    Final Thoughts

    Gouramis are awesome and often underrated tropical aquarium fish. There are so many types of gourami to choose from that there is a species or breed to suit just about any tank! If you’re looking for some new centerpiece fish or even an interesting breeding project, why not pick up a pair of these awesome fish for your aquarium?

    Do you love gouramis as much as we do? Tell us about your favorite fish below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    12 Types of Barb Fish: My Favorites and the Tiger Barb Truth

    Barbs have a bit of an unfair reputation in the hobby, mostly because of tiger barbs. Yes, they fin-nip. but the real issue is people keeping them in groups that are too small. When I keep tiger barbs, I run groups of eight or more, and the nipping behavior almost completely disappears as they focus on each other. Outside of that, barbs are genuinely great fish: active, hardy, and available in enough variety to suit almost any community tank setup. My personal favorite for planted tanks is the cherry barb. underrated, peaceful, and the males turn a beautiful deep red. Here are 12 types worth knowing about.

    Barbs are a versatile, and often an underrated group of freshwater aquarium fish. In this article, I’ll be introducing 12 amazing types of barbs that you can keep in your tank. I’ll also teach you all the barb basics that you need to know to keep them happy and healthy.

    What Are Barbs?

    Barbs are freshwater fish from the cyprinid family. There is a huge number of wild fish species in this group and they range through Asia all the way to Southern Africa. Barbs are solidly built fish, usually with strong fins and well-developed scales.

    They range in size from just an inch or so to large species that are measured in feet! Most of the popular aquarium species are 2-6 inches long, however. Many barb fish do well in cooler water temperatures, making them a great choice for unheated aquariums.

    They are generally peaceful fish but tend to be very active so choosing the right tankmates is important. They have a bit of a reputation in the hobby and some species are known as fin-nippers. This behavior is usually the result of poor care and stocking, however.

    Top 12 Types of Barb Fish For Aquariums

    Now that you know a little more about barbs in general, it’s time to get more specific. This article showcases 12 different types of barb fish that you can keep. To make your selection a little easier, I’ve included the most important facts you need to know, like:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Temperament
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Temperature
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    We have a video below from our YouTube Channel just for you. We go into more detail in our blog post. If you like our video content, be sure to subscribe to us as we post new videos every week!

    So let’s meet some barbs!

    1. Cherry

    Cherry Barb
    Cherry Barb

    A popular freshwater fish from the barb family. One of the most peaceful barb fish

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    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The cherry barb fish is an old favorite in the hobby. It is a very peaceful community fish that can brighten up your aquarium with a rich red-orange color.

    Cherry barbs are striking fish that have beautifully rounded fins and huge prominent scales. This is a great barb for beginners because it is so peaceful, small, and easy to care for! They get along with most fish species.

    2. Tiger

    Tiger Barb Fish
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    It’s easy to see how the tiger barb got its name. These striped schoolers are notorious fin-nippers, but the bad reputation is not always deserved. They come in many colors, including platinum, black, and albino tiger barb varieties.

    If given enough tank space, and kept in a group of at least 8-10 or so, they will usually leave their tankmates in peace. Nevertheless, I wouldn’t advise keeping the tiger barb with long-finned fish like angelfish.

    3. Gold (Chinese Barbs)

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Scientific Name: Barbodes semifasciolatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: China, Laos, Taiwan, Vietnam
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The golden barb is an amazing fish that is also known as the Chinese barb. Gold barbs in their wild form look amazing enough, but the golden morph that is most common in the aquarium trade is a truly spectacular fish.

    The golden barb is a peaceful schooling fish that stands out with highly reflective scales. Like other barbs, they should be kept in a group of at least 6, but the more the merrier!

    4. Rosy

    <a href=Rosy Barb in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-554575″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India, Nepal, Pakistan, Bangladesh
    • Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Rosy barbs are a fairly deep-bodied species that comes in many awesome varieties including long-finned forms. They are schooling fish that can work great in community tanks with the right tankmates.

    Rosy barbs are omnivores and will feed on soft plants, so they are not always the best choice for carefully aquascaped aquariums. That being said, the rosy barb is one of the few fish that love eating black brush algae (BBA), so they can do great work in a planted tank.

    5. Denison

    Dension Barb Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Sahyadria denisonii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 59-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The Denison barb is another species that goes by a few different names, including roseline shark and red-line torpedo barb. These peaceful and active fish are ideal for a larger tank with good water flow. A small school of these sleek and colorful fish makes for an eye-catching display, but they do require excellent water quality and plenty of swimming space to thrive.

    6. Tinfoil

    Tinfoil Barb in Tank
    • Scientific Name: Barbonymus schwanefeldii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 12-14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed pellets, vegetables and live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The tinfoil barb is a majestic barb species that gets its name from its metallic silvery color. Unfortunately, tinfoil barbs are just too big for most aquarists to keep indoors. These gorgeous fish need at least 150-gallon tanks but are probably better suited for ponds.

    Tinfoil barbs are active but peaceful fish, although they will eat other fish that are small enough to swallow. These large fish should be kept in a group of at least 6 to observe their interesting natural behaviors.

    7. Odessa

    • Scientific Name: Pethia padamya
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Myanmar
    • Temperature: 61-77ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    This beautiful species is one of the smaller barbs, reaching 2-3 inches in length (video source). These schooling fish have intense colors, including silver, yellow, orange, red, and black. It is a very peaceful fish but must be kept in groups of at least 6 to prevent any semi-aggressive behavior.

    8. Glofish

    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you like really brightly colored fish, the Glofish barbs (video source) will really get your attention! These fish are not dyed but rather genetically modified tiger barbs that display intense fluorescent colors.

    That’s right, the Glofish barb is basically just an extra colorful tiger barb, with all the same care requirements. Glofish tiger barbs come in four amazing colors including Electric Green, Starfire Red, Sunburst Orange, and Galactic purple.

    9. Green

    Green Tiger Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Puntigrus tetrazona
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2-2.25 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sumatra
    • Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • pH: 5-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The green tiger barb is yet another variety of the tiger barb, but this one isn’t genetically modified. This hardy fish has been developed to have a very dark body color with a vibrant green glow through the process of selective breeding.

    10. Black Ruby

    • Scientific Name: Pethia nigrofasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The black ruby barb (video source) is also known as the purple-headed barb. They are a small, schooling species that can be kept in a community tank with the right tank mates. It is important to keep them in a group of at least 6 individuals to prevent fin nipping and other semi-aggressive behavior.

    Black ruby barbs are one of the most colorful freshwater barbs with males that have dark ruby red around the head, becoming almost black towards the tail. The females look great too, being similar to tiger barbs with 3 bold vertical stripes.

    11. Snakeskin

    • Scientific Name: Desmopuntius rhomboocellatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed dried flakes/pellets, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: Borneo
    • Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate-advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The snakeskin barb is also known as the rhombo barb. It is one of the rarer barbs in the hobby and is known for its exotic boa-like markings (video source). It is a tropical species that will thrive in a blackwater-planted aquarium, especially if kept in a nice big school.

    12. Panda

    Panda Barb School
    • Scientific Name: Haludaria fasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivorous, feed dried flake/pellets with algae, supplement live/frozen foods
    • Origin: India
    • Temperature: 72-78ยฐF
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The panda or melon barb is one of the most boldly colored and marked species in the barb family. These awesome fish are pretty variable in their markings, and they typically have 3-5 black bars on their sides. Their general body color varies from peach through orange to red, or even purple.

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank for barb fish is pretty easy for most species. They tend to prefer slightly acidic water, although they are generally hardy and adaptable. Matching the preferred parameters of wild-caught fish is very important, however.

    Read for more specific information on setting up a great tank for these fish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Some natural hardscape features like rocks and driftwood will make your barbs feel more relaxed in your aquarium. Most barbs appreciate plenty of swimming space, however, so it’s best not to ‘over-decorate’.

    Use a natural, dark-colored substrate to bring out the best colors in your barbs. Any aquarium safe substrate will work, including sand, gravel, and aquarium soils.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Barb fish do not have any special lighting requirements. In fact, most species will feel more comfortable under fairly dim light. Standard aquarium lamps will work fine, although you may want to look at better lighting if you wish to grow live plants in the tank.

    Most barbs are comfortable in fairly low flow, so any filter that can create a weak current is ideal. When choosing a filter, look for a model that can process the volume of your aquarium 4 to 6 times every hour.

    Some species, like denison barbs, are at home in the headwaters of rivers where the water flow and oxygen levels are higher, so they will appreciate a stronger flow.

    Heating

    Many of the popular barb species in the aquarium hobby are happy in temperatures down to the lower 60s. This makes them great fish for unheated aquariums! The preferred temperature ranges do vary between the species, of course, so be sure to do your research.

    Live Plants

    Barbs do great in heavily planted tanks, especially when there are some floating plants to keep light levels down. Most species are omnivorous, however, so there is a chance that some plants might be snacked on. Carpet plants and other soft-leaved types can be at risk.

    Relatively tough plants like the Java ferns are a great choice, however, and they have the added benefits of enhancing the behavior of your fish while oxygenating and improving the water quality.

    How To Care For Your Companions

    Barbs are relatively easy to care for. Feeding them a healthy diet and maintaining great water quality are the most important keys to successful barb keeping. In this section, I’ll give you more specific information on the day-to-day care of these schooling fish.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintaining excellent water quality is the most important thing you can do for your barbs and their tank mates! It’s worth investing in the best filtration system you can afford, but you will still need to get your hands wet every now and then.

    I would recommend starting with a 20% weekly water change to keep nitrate levels down. Use your aquarium water test kit to monitor nitrate levels and adjust your water change schedule as needed to keep concentrations down to 20 ppm or less.

    While siphoning water out of the tank you can also remove any solid waste that has accumulated on the substrate. This is also a great time to clean off any algae growth from the glass of your tank.

    Behavior & Feeding

    Barb fish have gotten a bit of a bad rap in the hobby because of their tendency to nip fins and bully other smaller fish. The main culprits are the tiger barbs, rosy barb, and black ruby barb, but they don’t always deserve this reputation.

    Barbs are social, schooling fish that compete amongst each other for dominance. In a big enough group, this keeps them busy enough to leave the other fish alone. If kept alone or in a small group, this natural behavior will lead them to try to dominate other species.

    The simple solution is to keep barbs in a school of at least 6-8, depending on the species. If possible, keep 10 or more for a great display! They are active swimmers that enjoy plenty of swimming space too, so they can outcompete small fish that are naturally shy.

    Most barbs are omnivores, which means they need both plant and animal-based foods. You should feed your barbs a staple diet of quality fish flakes or pellets. This can be supplemented with live and/or frozen foods, and vegetables.

    Breeding

    Barbs are egg-laying fish that can be bred at home with a little planning. Their habit of eating their own eggs can be a challenge, so you will need to set up a separate breeding tank to increase your chance of success.

    Start by conditioning a small group of barbs with high-quality foods like daphnia and bloodworms. Lower the pH and stain the water in the breeding tank using a material like oak leaves that will leach tannins into the water and induce spawning.

    You’ll need some sort of barrier to keep the eggs safe from the adults. A layer of round pebbles with spaces between them is a good option, especially if you have a gentle current running. If successful, the eggs will hatch in just a day or two, so be sure to remove the parents before they enter the free-swimming stage.

    Tankmates

    Many barbs are excellent fish for a community tank. It is very important to remember that some species, like tiger, rosy, and black ruby barbs are semi-aggressive so they should be kept with other fish that are not easily intimidated and don’t have long fins.

    Keeping barb fish in a tank with plenty of swimming space and in groups of at least 8-10 can also go a long way towards maintaining the peace in a community tank. Keeping these fish together with other barbs is another great way to avoid problems, but there are many other options when putting together peaceful or semi-aggressive community tanks.

    Tank Mates For Peaceful Fish

    More peaceful barb species like cherry barbs are compatible with most other peaceful, similarly-sized fish. Here are a few ideas for great peaceful barb tank mates:

    Tank Mates For Semi-aggressive

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    The following long-finned fish are a little risky, especially if kept with potential fin-nippers like tiger barbs

    Where To Buy

    Barbs are very popular aquarium fish so you can usually find common species like cherry barbs at your local fish store. If you live a little far from town, or just prefer the safety and convenience of online shopping, I would recommend checking out trusted online sources!

    FAQs

    Are they aggressive fish?

    Most fish in the barb family are very peaceful species, although some like the Tiger Barb can be semi-aggressive if kept in small numbers.

    What what types are peaceful?

    Cherry, snakeskin, and gold barbs are great examples of peaceful community fish. Most species are very peaceful when kept in a well-planned community aquarium.

    What fish are compatible with barbs?

    Many species of similarly sized, peaceful fish are compatible with barbs. The best community tank mates for them are fish that are not shy and do not have long caudal fins.

    How many should be kept together?

    It is best to keep barb fish in groups of ten or more. The minimum group size is about 6 individuals.

    How many are there?

    A clear definition of what counts as barb varies depending on who you ask, but there are at least 1682 species in the Cyprinidae family according to FishBase1.

    Not all of these species are available in the aquarium trade but there are at least 20 species or so that are commonly available. Some of them, like the tiger barb, come in a great range of different color varieties too, so there are loads of barbs to choose from!

    Final Thoughts

    Barbs are classic aquarium fish. Their great looks, fascinating behaviors, and the fact that many species can thrive in unheated aquariums make them a great choice for beginner and expert aquarists.

    Do you keep barbs? Tell us about your favorite species below!

    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.