Author: Mark Valderrama

  • How to Lower pH in Your Aquarium: 7 Methods That Actually Work

    How to Lower pH in Your Aquarium: 7 Methods That Actually Work

    Lowering pH is something I’ve had to do in my own tanks over the years. particularly when keeping fish that prefer soft, acidic water like discus, cardinal tetras, or South American cichlids. The tricky part is that most tap water in the US runs alkaline, so you’re working against your source water. Some methods work reliably; others are inconsistent and can cause more problems than they solve. Here are the 7 that I’ve found actually work.

    pH is one of those water parameters that beginners learn about early but often misunderstand. The number itself matters less than stability. fish adapt to a wide range of pH values as long as conditions are consistent. Where I see problems is when people try to chase a target pH and end up with wild swings that stress or kill their fish. That said, if you’re keeping soft-water species like discus, rams, or wild-caught cardinal tetras, lowering pH genuinely matters. After 25 years managing both freshwater and reef tanks, here are the 7 methods I’d actually use. and the ones I’d approach with caution.

    What Is pH?

    pH is one of the most important parameters in the fish tank setting as well as in regular water quality analysis. The pH of water directly impacts which species and aquatic life can live in any given ecosystem. An overview of the pH is supplied below by MooMooMath and Science.

    For example, tropical freshwater tetra fish are found in waters with low pH while African cichlids need high pH. But what is pH and why are pH levels so important in the aquarium setting?

    Measuring pH

    In order to understand why pH is so important, it’s necessary to understand how it is measured.

    pH is the logarithmic scale of how acidic or basic a solution is on a scale from 0.0 to 14.0. A neutral pH falls directly between these two values at 7.0 with values under this being acidic and values over this being basic, sometimes referred to as being alkaline.

    As a logarithmic scale, changes in pH levels are exponentially greater than they might initially seem. As a result, rapid or sudden fluctuations in the pH of water can prove to be deadly for many aquatic species.

    That being said, pH naturally fluctuates throughout the day due to natural phenomena.

    What Affects Water?

    There are many natural factors that influence the pH of water, especially seawater. Though these factors in nature donโ€™t have as large of an effect in a small and contained fish tank setting, the theory behind them has been applied to aquarium equipment and media to make adjusting pH easier for fishkeeping enthusiasts.

    First, weโ€™ll understand what influences pH in natural ecosystems.

    Carbon Dioxide

    Carbon dioxide is one of the main influencers of pH levels in freshwater, saltwater, and brackish water systems. In short, the more carbon dioxide that is present in the water, the lower the pH drops.

    Carbon dioxide is largely available in the atmosphere as a gas. When carbon dioxide combines with seawater through surface agitation, carbonic acid (H2CO3) forms which later breaks into hydrogen ions and bicarbonate ions. These hydrogen ions directly lower pH, causing the water to become more acidic.

    As water travels, this change in ocean pH eventually starts to influence the pH in freshwater ecosystems as well. An even greater influence over freshwater pH comes from dissolved organic carbon in the form of decomposition and respiration.

    Decomposition And Respiration

    Freshwater lakes, streams, and ponds are fed by rainwater as well as runoff from the surrounding ground and tributaries.

    Along this path, plants, animals, pollutants, and other contaminants fall into the water and are carried along and eventually deposited. If these objects are organic and start to decompose, then pH will be affected.

    During the process of decomposition, carbon dioxide is released. This creates a direct source of hydrogen ions that cause pH to drop.

    Another direct input of carbon dioxide is respiration, which is very similar to decomposition though nothing needs to die to start the process. Instead, respiration is the opposite of photosynthesis: sugar (glucose) and oxygen are processed into carbon dioxide, water, and energy.

    Most organisms perform respiration within the freshwater aquarium setting, including fish, invertebrates, and plants. Believe it or not, plants only photosynthesize when there is light present while respiration happens continuously throughout the day and night; respiration only becomes more apparent at night due to increased carbon dioxide levels and subsequent changes in pH. It is because of respiration that the pH in your aquarium fluctuates throughout the day.

    At the same time, freshwater fish and invertebrates are constantly breathing through respiration and introducing new carbon dioxide into the system. As a result, an overstocked fish tank can lead to depleted oxygen levels and a low pH.

    Tannins

    Along the same line as decomposition are tannins. Tannins are an astringent compound found naturally in many terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems in a variety of plants and trees. In the fish tank keeping hobby, tannins are most notably known for composing blackwater systems where the water is stained dark brown and is chemically soft and acidic.

    Tannin compounds are incredibly beneficial to these ecosystems and hobbyists have taken advantage of these benefits in their own freshwater fish tanks. Many species of plants and trees contain tannins in their bark and leaves to naturally fight off bacterial and fungal infections. Once these organics start to decompose in water, tannins enter the system, providing bolstered immunity to fish and invertebrates.

    Some of these compounds are made up of tannic acid, which is the weak acid responsible for altering the pH. Once this acid enters the water, the pH level will begin to fall.

    Levels In Your Aquarium

    Most freshwater aquariums sit around an average pH of 7.0. Most fish can tolerate a range of 6.5 – 7.5, though this will vary with species. As mentioned before, most tropical species, like tetras, will prefer more acidic water chemistry. On the other hand, African cichlids are known for loving high pH levels above 8.0.

    In general, tap water, distilled, and reverse osmosis will have a neutral pH that is appropriate for keeping most fish. However, if the pH level of the source water is not correct, then there can be some serious problems.

    Why Is It So High In Your Aquarium?

    There are many factors that affect water chemistry, but understanding the pH levels of your aquarium water is necessary for long-term success. High pH levels are most likely due to poor source water or aquarium substrate and tank decorations.

    The pH of source water is determined by where that water was collected. If tap water is used for the fish tank, then the hobbyist must make sure that pH levels are appropriate for fish tank usage; some local reservoirs are naturally more acidic or alkaline than others and subject to change.

    Some fish tank decorations and substrates can also increase pH levels, like aragonite sand. For the most part, this is more of a concern for saltwater enthusiasts, though cichlid owners will also need to understand how the substrate they choose influences the pH level.

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    It should also be noted that pH will rise and fall more often if the carbonate hardness (KH) level, a buffer to pH, is incorrect. A more accurate KH will result in a more stable pH.

    How Long Does It Take To Lower In The Tank?

    pH is a quick parameter to change in the fish tank setting as long as conditions are right. All-day long, pH is rising and falling depending on photosynthesis and respiration rates. This fluctuation can be as great as a 0.5 difference at times and is perfectly normal.

    However, pH will only change as much as the carbonate hardness agrees. Anything greater or quicker than a gradual 0.5 change in pH level can prove to be fatal to fish and invertebrates.

    In general, pH should be slowly altered 0.25 at a time with continued observation.

    Can Rocks Lower It In The Aquarium?

    Most rocks will not cause pH levels to rise or fall in the freshwater aquarium. However, rocks that contain limestone will have a sure effect on your water pH. Limestone is mainly composed of calcium carbonate, which is naturally basic and will cause pH levels to rise.

    To test whether or not your rocks contain limestone, simply drop some vinegar onto them. If the rock contains limestone, then the vinegar will bubble and fizzle.

    Does Gravel Affect It?

    In the same way, limestone gravel can start to affect pH as well. However, most freshwater gravels and substrates will not influence pH if they are for aquarium use, though some may temporarily raise or lower pH levels after being initially added.

    If keeping cichlids that like hard, basic water, then most hobbyists choose to use a crushed coral substrate. Crushed coral is similar to limestone as it contains calcium carbonate, which will then raise the pH level.

    How To Lower It in the Tank – 7 Ways

    Lowering pH can be tricky. Remember, this is a logarithmic value and any slight change can prove to be too much for fish and invertebrates to handle at once.

    If attempting to alter pH, then plenty of time needs to be given for livestock to acclimate to new conditions. It is also important to note that pH levels will not change unless KH is within the appropriate range.

    When the tank is ready, pH can be lowered through several methods. We have a video below from our YouTube channel you can check out. We go into more detail in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

    1. Aquarium Driftwood

    When setting up a freshwater aquarium, you will more than likely add driftwood for decoration and structure. In short, driftwood is any type of wood that has washed up on the shore of a beach, lake, pond, or river. Due to wind and wave action, these pieces of wood are eroded and brittle.

    Aquarium enthusiasts have perfected the art of aquascaping with driftwood, using popular varieties like mopani, spider, and manzanita wood. However, driftwood adds much more to the aquarium than just aquascaping.

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    Remember that most trees contain tannins and tannic acid; driftwood is no different and most varieties will leak tannins into the aquarium water. This results in dark water, lowered pH, and increased immunity for fish and invertebrates. Thus goes to reason that the more driftwood that releases tannic acid, the more that the pH will drop.

    This is true, though can be hard to control and the buffering property eventually runs out. Luckily, unwanted effects from tannins can be reversed by using activated carbon in a filter bag.

    2. Indian Almond Leaves

    Indian almond leaves, sometimes abbreviated as IAL, are another great addition to the freshwater aquarium and are especially popular among betta fish keepers!

    These dried leaves come from a type of tree, Terminalia catappa. Similar to driftwood, Indian almond leaves contain tannins that are released into the aquarium water when they start to decompose.

    In addition to the health benefits and decrease in pH level that Indian almond leaves provide, they also provide great coverage on the bottom of the tank as leaf litter. Many species (like betta fish) will enjoy foraging for food and hiding in a thick leaf litter substrate, though not all hobbyists will enjoy the tannin-stained tank water that comes along with it. Again, the effects of tannins can be reversed by using activated carbon packets in the filtration system.

    While Indian almond leaves are some of the most abundant types of dried leaf available, other botanicals may be used for the same effects. These leaves will need to be replaced every three months or so as they will completely disintegrate.

    3. Peat Moss

    Peat moss is a regular addition to home gardens but is one of the best ways to lower pH levels without adding anything directly to the fish tank display.

    Peat moss largely refers to the Sphagnum genus, which is a group of mosses commonly found growing around bog ecosystems. Like driftwood and Indian almond leaves, peat moss works to lower the pH level in the tank by releasing tannins. However, using peat moss is much more controllable than the former options.

    One of the benefits of using peat moss in the fish tank is that it can be measured for exact dosage. Many hobbyists choose to put a bag of peat moss in their filter, though some incorporate it directly into their substrates. Another option is to prepare new peat moss-treated tank water beforehand.

    It should be noted that there is some discussion about the sustainability of harvesting peat moss in both horticulture and the aquarium industry due to its importance in nature.

    4. Using CO2 Injection

    CO2 injection is the same idea as atmospheric carbon dioxide entering an ocean or lake, just at a much smaller and controlled scale: increasing carbon dioxide subsequently increases the number of hydrogen ions in the tank water, lowering pH.

    This is a great method to lower the pH in fish tanks, especially ones with aquatic plants, due to the control that comes with dosing carbon dioxide. However, CO2 injections can be costly over time and require additional equipment that some hobbyists might not be able to fit into their setups.

    5. Changing Your Water

    If you have a large bioload in your fish tank and don’t keep up with regular maintenance, then pH may begin to fall over time. This is due to the idea of respiration and decomposition where organics are being broken down, releasing carbon dioxide and acidifying the water. In the same ways, water changes will also help remove carbon dioxide from the water and introduce new oxygen instead which will lower pH.

    For these same reasons, it is recommended to perform regular water changes when using a new substrate in order to keep pH levels stable.

    6. Replace Your Source Water

    Changing your source for aquarium water is probably the best and most long-lasting solution to reaching the desired pH level. Many freshwater aquariums rely on tap water for convenience and mineral addition. However, tap water can have varying pH levels day to day depending on the variables affecting the source water.

    For the most control over aquarium pH and general water quality, it’s recommended to use and remineralize reverse osmosis water to the hobbyist’s liking. This also gives much greater control over fertilizing and plant growth.

    7. Use Chemical Solutions

    Chemical solutions should be the last resort for any aquarium problem. pH is especially sensitive.

    Chemical solutions can be difficult to dose, expensive, and most importantly, don’t fix the origin of the problem; as soon as the chemicals are stopped dosing, then pH levels will return to where they were over time.

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    API offers a pH proper series for various pH targets. This will allow you to set your pH to the desired level for your fish

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    That being said, there are plenty of aquarium-proven neutralizers, reducers, and buffers to accurately increase or decrease both pH and KH.

    Conclusion

    pH is a complicated water parameter that can be influenced by many chemical and biological factors. Most fish and invertebrates are highly sensitive to large and sudden changes in pH levels, even though pH naturally rises and falls throughout the day.

    If you’re struggling with high acidity or need to get into the perfect pH range for cichlids, then there are a few methods to gently get pH to the levels you need.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • 15 Best Blue Freshwater Fish: My Picks After 25 Years in the Hobby

    15 Best Blue Freshwater Fish: My Picks After 25 Years in the Hobby

    Blue freshwater fish are genuinely hard to find. and I say that as someone who’s been searching for them for 25+ years. True blue coloration in freshwater is rare compared to saltwater, so when I see a fish that genuinely delivers on it, I take notice. These are my top picks after years of keeping and observing them in my own tanks, ranked by how reliably they display that blue color in home aquarium conditions.

    Blue is genuinely one of the harder colors to find in freshwater fish. it’s more common in saltwater, which is part of what makes a well-chosen blue freshwater species stand out in a tank. After 25 years in both freshwater and reef keeping, I’ve learned that “blue” can mean a lot of things depending on the fish, the lighting, and even the mood of the animal. Some blues are electric and vivid; others are subtle and iridescent. This list covers 15 of the best options across different tank sizes and care levels, so there’s something here whether you’re running a community tank or a species-only setup.

    15 Best Blue Freshwater Fish Species

    Choosing the right aquarium fish involves some careful thought. It’s really important to know how big they grow, how much space they need, and whether they will be happy in the kind of water you have.

    To make choosing the perfect bluefish easier, I’ve included the following important stats for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Adult Size
    • Temperament
    • Origin
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Temperature
    • Diet
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    Now you’re ready to meet some awesome bluefish! Check out our video above from our YouTube Channel. We go over more details in the blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week!

    1. Betta fish/ Siamese fighting fish

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Betta fish are one of the best blue fish for fishkeepers who want to keep a nano aquarium. Of course, not all bettas are blue, so you’ll need to shop around for a specimen that suits your taste. These pretty fish come in a huge variety of different fin shapes, and can be found in solid blue, or combinations of colors that include everything from turquoise to deep blue!

    Blue Betta Fish

    It’s usually best to keep betta fish on their own. Male bettas are very aggressive fish and will fight and kill other male bettas. Female bettas are less aggressive than males but it can still be risky to keep more than one in the same aquarium.

    You can keep a betta fish with tank mates in larger tanks. You just have to be careful about what you add as the betta can prey on small inverts and will be nipped by overactive fish.

    2. Fancy Guppies

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8.5
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Northeastern South America
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Guppies are another hugely popular aquarium fish that come in a range of patterns and colors-including blue! These aquarium fish come in many different shades of blue, including sky and royal blue.

    Guppies are peaceful community fish that get along great with other fish. The fancy guppy is a very hardy fish that is easy to care for and will thrive in just about any freshwater tank setup with hard water.

    3. Blue Gourami

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichopodus trichopterus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 75-86ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-8.5
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue gourami is also known as the three spot gourami. This hardy and easy to care for species is great for fishkeepers who want medium-sized blue aquarium fish.

    This gourami species comes in a few different breeds, and not all of them are blue. The best options are the wild 3 spotted form, or even better, the opaline form if you want a really great centerpiece fish.

    4. German Blue Rams

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate/advanced
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 80-86ยฐF
    • pH: 4-7
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Venezuela, Colombia
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The German blue ram is one of my favorite blue fish species. If you’re looking for amazing color, the ‘electric blue’ breed will really impress you!

    These gorgeous little cichlids are super peaceful fish and stay very small, unlike most other South American cichlids. Unfortunately, the German blue ram is not great for beginners because they need perfect water quality to stay healthy.

    5. Blue Peacock Cichlid

    Blue Peacock Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara nyassae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8-8.6
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The blue peacock cichlid is an awesome blue fish from Lake Malawi in Africa. Like most other African cichlids, these fish need high pH water to thrive. These fish are classified as semi-aggressive and become pretty aggressive when breeding, a time when they are their most colorful!

    It is best to keep the blue peacock cichlid fish in a group of 1 male and 3 or 4 females to prevent fighting. They are not your typical community fish, and the best tank mates for these fish are other peacock cichlids.

    6. Blue Zebra Cichlid

    Blue Zebra Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Maylandia callainos/ Metriaclima callainos
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8-8.6
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The cobalt blue zebra cichlid is an mbuna cichlid. These fish are known for being quite aggressive if not kept with the right tankmates. It is best to keep one male with 3 or 4 females to limit aggression.

    These fish are not suitable for most community aquariums, but they can be amazing in mbuna aquariums with other species of African cichlids.

    7. Electric Blue Johanni

    Electric Blue Johanni Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanochromis johannii
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6-8.8
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Lake Malawi, Africa
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The electric blue johanni is a great little African cichlid with vibrant blue colors. It is only the males that are dark blue, however, and the females are a beautiful golden orange color. Some of the best tank mates for mbuna cichlids like electric blue johannis are other mbuna cichlids from lake Malawi.

    8. Frontosa

    Frontosa Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Cyphotilapia frontosa
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 10-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 8-9
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Lake Tanganyika, Africa
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The frontosa, or humphead cichlid, is a great species for fish keepers who want a large and dramatic display tank! These fish are not pure blue, but rather silvery blue with bold vertical black bars. Although you could keep a frontosa cichlid in a tank as small as 70 gallons, you’ll really want a 180-gallon tank or larger to keep them in a group.

    9. Discus Fish

    Discus In An Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Symphysodon aequifasciata
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Temperature: 79-86ยฐF
    • pH: 6.1-7.5
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Discus fish are one of the most beautiful (and peaceful) cichlids in the hobby. These colorful freshwater fish get their name for their round, disc-shaped bodies.

    There are many varieties of discus available, including some amazing blue types like the cobalt, blue snakeskin, and blue diamond discus.

    10. Cardinal Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil and Venezuela
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Cardinal tetras are gorgeous fish that have vivid blue stripes that run the length of their bodies from their bright blue eyes almost to the start of their caudal fin. Cardinal tetras look very similar to our next species, the neon tetra, but have more contrast between red and blue.

    These peaceful community fish get along great with other smaller fish. They are ideal for a community setup, especially if kept in schools of 8 or more.

    11. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inch
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 70-77ยฐF
    • pH: 5-7
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil, Colombia, Peru
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Neon tetras are amazing blue schooling fish with bright blue stripes along their sides. These colorful freshwater fish are similar to cardinal tetras but slightly smaller and do not have as much red color.

    Neon tetras are very peaceful fish that get along great with other peaceful tank mates. Like other tetras, these fish should be kept in groups of 8 or more to see them school and behave confidently.

    12. Blue Glofish

    Blue Glofish
    • Scientific Name: Various
    • Difficulty Level: Easy-moderate
    • Adult Size: 2 inches for danios and tetras, 6 inches for sharks
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons for danios and tetras, 55 gallons for sharks
    • Temperature: 70-75ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Tank bred
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Glofish are some of the most colorful freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. These fish are genetically modified to show the most amazing vivid color. The cosmic blue tetras, (also available in the longfin variety), cosmic blue danios, and cosmic blue sharks are awesome blue fish for freshwater aquariums.

    The tetras and danios are very peaceful schooling fish for an awesome freshwater community tank. They grow to just 2 inches or so in length and should be kept in schools of 6 or more. The cosmic blue sharks are larger fish that are classified as semi-aggressive.

    13. Praecox Rainbowfish (Dwarf Neon Rainbowfish)

    • Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8-7.5
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The praecox rainbowfish is a beautiful blue fish with red fins and a red tail. This colorful fish is also known as the dwarf neon rainbowfish because it maxes out at just 3 inches or so and glows with color in the right lighting.

    Praecox rainbowfish are active fish that do great in an aquarium community with other shoaling fish. They are great-looking fish to add as a school in medium to large-sized aquariums.

    14. Electric Blue Crayfish

    • Scientific Name: Procambarus alleni
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 4-6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperature: 65-70ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Southeastern United States
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: No

    If you’re looking for something a little different for your blue fish aquarium, look no further than the electric blue crayfish (video source)! These awesome critters are native to the United States and they thrive in fish tanks.

    Electric blue crayfish are opportunistic feeders that do occasionally catch slow-moving fish. They also love to eat aquarium plants, so they are not ideal for planted tanks. Fast tankmates are recommended, thought not guaranteed that they will not eaten.

    15. Freshwater Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi, Caridina cantonensis, Caridina serrata
    • Difficulty Level: Easy/moderate
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    There are many amazing blue shrimps available in the aquarium hobby. Some great examples include the blue velvet shrimp/ blue dream shrimp (Neocaridina davidi), the blue bolt shrimp (Caridina cantonensis), and the aura blue shrimp (Caridina serrata).

    Blue Freshwater Shrimp

    Adult shrimp can be kept with some small community fish, but larger fish will probably see your shrimp as a tasty snack! the great thing about shrimp is that you can keep them in a tank of just 5 gallons or so, making them a perfect choice when you don’t have a lot of room.

    Bonus for Freshwater Aquariums

    Just in case you’re curious about even more blue fish for freshwater aquariums, here are a few more beautiful fish species to check out!

    Aquarium Fish Care – The Basics

    If you’re new to fish keeping, there are some very important things to know before bringing your new blue fish home. Different fish species have different care needs, but the following tips are a good starting point.

    Tank Setup

    Setting up a great tank is the first step, and this should always be done before you bring your fish home! In fact, you should set up your tank at least a few weeks before introducing any fish to get it fully cycled and ready.

    Read on for a basic list of what you’ll need!

    Essential equipment

    The most important items you’ll need to set up a great freshwater aquarium for blue fish are:

    • Fish tank with a hood/cover- Match the size of the tank to the minimum tank size of the fish you want to keep. Bigger is always better, so go a little larger if you can.
    • Filter- A filter is extremely important for keeping your water clean and healthy. Choose a filter that is rated for your tank size or larger.
    • Aquarium light- Good lighting will make your fish look really amazing. Set your lights on a timer so that they fire up and switch off at the same time every day. This will give your pets a natural day/night rhythm.
    • Heater- Tropical fish need a heater to keep the water temperature stable in their preferred range. Choose a model that matches your tank size.
    • Thermometer

    These are the basic components of a tropical fish tank. While it is possible to set up a fish tank with just these components, you’ll also want to decorate your tank. Read on to learn more.

    Decor

    You can get creative or aim to make a really natural-looking environment for your fish. The choice is yours! Whatever you choose to decorate your tank with, however, always make sure it is fish-safe.

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood

    Editor’s Choice

    Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

    Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

    Pick up a selection of the following items to make a great home for your blue fish:

    Feeding your fish

    Different species of fish have different diets, so make sure to research the needs of your blue fish before picking up some food. Read on to learn some popular aquarium fish food types and how to feed your fish!

    Food types

    Most popular aquarium fish can be fed a regular diet of prepared dried foods. These come in different shapes and sizes and are designed for different types of fish. Prepared foods can either float or sink.

    Here are some common examples of prepared foods:

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food
    Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food

    Cobalt offers a premium level flake food with probiotics. A color enhancing formula that works great for all tropical fish

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Apart from their regular daily food source, omnivorous and carnivorous fish will benefit hugely from the occasional meal of live or frozen food. These should not be provided every day, but rather as a supplement to improve color and condition. The best choices are:

    How much to feed your fish

    Overfeeding is very bad for the health of your fish and can lead to poor water quality as uneaten food spoils in the water. Most aquarium fish can be fed once or twice a day when the lights are on. Provide only as much food as the fish can finish in a minute or two.

    Maintenance

    Keeping your fish tank looking amazing requires you to do some regular aquarium maintenance. You’ll need to clean your aquarium glass with an algae scraper when necessary, and you’ll also need to rinse out your filter if it becomes clogged.

    The most important side of maintenance is to perform partial water changes once or twice a month. This will prevent the build-up of harmful chemicals in the water.

    Testing

    You’ll need a test kit to test your aquarium water quality and find out what your water parameters are. Liquid or strip test kits are really easy to use and very affordable. Use your test kit before adding any fish to your tank and then every week to monitor your water quality.

    Choose a test kit that can measure the following parameters:

    • pH
    • Hardness
    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate

    Where to Buy

    Most of the species on this list can be found at your local fish or pet store. If you can’t find what you’re looking for, you can always order from a trusted online retailer and have your new pets delivered to your home!

    FAQS

    Are There Any Fish?

    Bluefish species are pretty rare in freshwater, but there are some amazing species in the modern aquarium trade. Even common aquarium fish like guppies and betta fish are available in various shades of blue.

    What Kind Of Fish Is Bright Blue?

    The electric blue german ram cichlid and the cosmic blue glofish tetra are some of the brightest blue fish in the hobby. There are many other bright blue fish, however, so be sure to check out all the species in this article to find your favorite!

    Can You Keep This Type of Fish As Pets?

    There are many amazing bluefish species that can be kept as pets. These should not be confused with the saltwater fish species that is called a bluefish (Pomatomus saltatrix) of course. That species grows very large and would not make a good pet!

    What Is The Name Of A Small Fish?

    Fancy guppies, cardinal tetras, and cosmic blue glofish are some great examples of small blue fish. German blue rams are also amazing nano blue fish for more experienced fish keepers.

    What Kind Is Tropical And This Color?

    There are many amazing blue tropical fish in the aquarium hobby. Neon tetras are a very popular choice for fish keepers looking for a small schooling species, but other fish like discus are also amazing species for a tropical community aquarium.

    Final Thoughts

    There’s something about blue fish that really makes for a great display tank! With all the great species in this list, there’s a species to suit any aquarist. I hope you found some great ideas for your own tank, and remember, have fun!

    Do you keep blue fish in your freshwater tank? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 7 Best Foods for Saltwater Fish: What I Actually Feed My Reef Tank

    7 Best Foods for Saltwater Fish: What I Actually Feed My Reef Tank

    Feeding saltwater fish well is something I take seriously. my 125-gallon reef has a mix of fish with genuinely different dietary needs, from omnivores to dedicated herbivores, and the wrong food either gets ignored or causes water quality issues. The biggest mistake I see with saltwater fish food is products loaded with land-based or freshwater ingredients as fillers. Marine-based diets with real ocean ingredients. mysis, krill, spirulina, marine protein. make a visible difference in color and health. After years of testing products across my reef tank, here are the 7 best saltwater fish foods I’d actually recommend.

    What Are We Looking For? (Our Criteria For Selection)

    Picking the best saltwater fish foods isn’t an easy task, with various foods available at various price points. I’m taking the view that you are looking for premium-level products. Keeping a saltwater tank is expensive, so I expect my readers to be looking for high-end products. I’m not going to skip out on sub-par foods knowing this. Let’s dig deeper into what I’m looking for.

    Marine Based Foods

    This is number one on my list. I want nothing to do with a product containing many freshwater or land-based food as its main ingredients. The ocean is vast with ideal foods for your fish. I’m looking for ingredients like krill, Mysis shrimp, and clams for proteins. Ingredients like spirulina, plankton, seaweed, and marine algae are what I like to see for my greens.

    Probiotics

    Live cultures of bacteria are vital for your saltwater fish. These cultures boost your fish’s immune system, keep their digestive tracts clear, and enhance color. It’s still rare to find foods with probiotics in the saltwater aquarium trade. Even so, I give preference to products that have it.

    Feeding Response

    I want foods that have a great feeding response for your fish. It’s difficult enough as it is with new saltwater fish to get them to eat. You want food that triggers their feeding response. Getting your new fish to eat is one of the big milestones you have to get through when they are accumulating. I’m giving an extra look towards anything that can get a timid or picky fish to eat.

    Brand Name

    I do go for small brands or brands without a proven reputation. It’s hard enough to find quality fish food in the industry. I want a brand that is proven and readily available to my readers. I am also aware that some brands of foods are not going to be available online, and I’m perfectly happy telling my readers to find them at a local fish store.

    Saltwater Fish Food Candidates

    In a hurry? I recommend LRS Reef Frenzy and Reef Nutrition Chroma Pellets!

    Here are the foods that made the list after going through my criteria. I’ll go into further detail about each product below.

    PictureNameFeaturesLink
    Editor’s Choice
    LRS Reef Frenzy

    LRS Reef Frenzy

    • Whole ingredients
    • Great feeding response
    • Highly nutritious 
    Click For Best Price
    Best Pellet Food
    Reef Nutrition Chroma Boost

    Reef Nutrition Chroma Boost

    • Coral and Fish Food
    • Works in Auto Feeders
    Click For Best PriceBuy On EBay
    Best Flake Food
    Formula One Flake Food

    Formula One Flake Food

    • Marine formula
    • For all saltwater fish
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Masstick Fish Food

    Masstick Fish Food

    • Great for picky eaters
    • Easy to feed
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Sea Veggies

    Sea Veggies

    • Great for algae eaters
    • Easy to feed
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    SF Bay Brand Saltwater Multipack

    SF Bay Brand Saltwater Multipack

    • Multiple formulas
    • For all saltwater fish
    Buy On Petco
    Cobalt Omni Flakes

    Cobalt Omni Flakes

    • Probiotics
    • Great for small fish
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy

    The Best Food – 7 Best (2023 Reviews)

    You have seen the list. Let’s see why these fish foods made the cut!

    1. LRS Reef Frenzy

    If you want the absolute best fish you can purchase for your money, LRS Reef Frenzy is what you have been looking for. LRS goes further than any other food maker in the industry at producing the highest quality saltwater fish food. Let’s take a look at the ingredients list:

    • Fresh Wild Caught Scallop
    • Fresh Wild Caught, Hand Peeled Shrimp
    • Fresh Wild Caught Ocean Perch and Whitefish
    • Premium Piscine Energetics Mysis Shrimp
    • Squid
    • Euphausia pacifica krill
    • Fresh Shucked Oysters and Clams
    • Zooplankton and Rotifers
    • Seaweed
    • Blanched Broccoli Flowers
    • Oyster Eggs and Ovarian Tissue
    • D. salina algae

    No other fish food maker has all these ingredients in one. LRS is transparent about its production process. They invited Mr. Saltwater Tank several years back to tour their facility. Check out the video below:

    You get a ton of whole fresh ingredients with LRS. You also get probiotics. Probiotics, as mentioned in our best flake fish food post, are proven in the aquaculture industry to enhance the health of fish. LRS goes so far in their transparency that they have had their blends tested in labs. The sample of their labs shows Lactobacilli in a food sample that has been frozen for 30 days. The results are posted here.

    This is the ultimate fish food for reef tanks. It comes at a high price and is mainly available at local fish stores. I recommend this frozen blend to anyone who owns a saltwater tank.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Great for fish and corals
    • Whole ingredients
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Difficult to find

    2. Reef Nutrition Chroma Boost Pellets

    Reef Nutrition’s Chroma Boost is a new pellet food on the market, and it’s probably the best pellet food to come into the industry in many years. Its pellets are dressed in algae called Haematococcus, which is an excellent source of astaxanthin. A study performed by Virginia Tech showed astaxanthin had a positive effect on the coloration of clownfish.

    This pellet formula is not only great with fish, but corals love it too. To me, it combines the benefits of LRS in a pellet formula. You will get coloration from your fish that you have never seen before with this product. Because it’s a pellet product, you can place it in an auto feeder. This makes it one of the highest quality foods you can place in an automatic fish feeder.

    It isn’t easy to find online and in stores. You will need to visit a specialty local fish store to get it. You can order it online at the links above if you have trouble getting it. You won’t regret trying this out!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Enhances colors
    • Researched backedN
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Not the best for larger fish

    3. Formula One Flake Food

    Here’s the thing about saltwater fish food – there are way better options these days. You should be eating balanced frozen foods like LRS instead of letting your fry get hooked on most flake foods or treating them with unbalanced dry stuff that will compromise their immune and digestive systems later.

    However, I understand there is a need for convenient foods for busy people or when you are traveling. Fortunately, we have quality brands like Ocean Nutrition that have researched and provided quality flake food that I am okay with recommending to saltwater tank keepers. Made in the USA and containing a solid nutrient profile, this fish food supports all saltwater aquarium inhabitants.

    The great thing about this formula is that it includes high-quality ingredients such as salmon, mussels, kelp, and brine shrimp. This flake variation of Ocean Nutritionโ€™s frozen food has been designed explicitly for our freshwater fish to get all the nutrients their bodies need to be healthy!

    What puts Ocean Nutrition ahead of other flake food makers is its availability. They can be found in any fish store, including chain pet stores.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Probiotics 
    • Works for all tropical fish
    • Made in the USA
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Larger flakes

    4. Masstick Fish Food

    Masstick is an amazing food made by Easy Reefs that has been designed for the pickiest fish in the hobby. It contains a blend of natural ingredients that are only of marine origin. This creates premium-level food great for all fish and inverts in your saltwater or reef aquarium.

    What makes this food excellent for finicky fish is that you stick this to the glass of your aquarium, and your fish will pick it up when they feel safe to do so. Because the food lasts for hours on the glass and doesn’t break down easily, your more shy fish can take their time. You can see the food in action from the video below by Dutch Reefer. Watch his Cooper Band Butterfly go crazy for it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Lasts for hours in the tank
    • Best food for picky eaters
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Messy to make

    5. Two Little Fishies Sea Veggies

    Do you have an algae-loving fish? If you have angelfish, tangs, or rabbitfish, you know how important it is to feed marine greens to these types of fish. Sea Veggies by Two Little Fishies provides a high-quality green product specially formulated for these fish.

    This product won’t break apart easily and is easy to feed. Just get a veggie clip and mount it on your glass. Your fish will pick it apart. Because it’s a passive fish food, you can put it on the clip and give your fish time to eat the sea veggies. This makes it an excellent product for finicky and shy fish. They can take their time to venture out and pick at the clip.

    This product is more expensive than others, and you do not get a lot, but it is the go-to sea greens product for serious reef keepers.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Tangs and angels love it
    • Easy to feed
    • Holds shape in water
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Low quantity

    6. San Francisco Bay Brand Saltwater Multipack

    For aquarists venturing into frozen foods for the first time, this multi-pack by San Francisco Bay Brand is a great first choice. This pack contains the following blends:

    • Marine Cuisine – Mysis Shrimp, Krill, Spirulina
    • Emerald Entrรฉe – Spirulina, Mysis Shrimp, Fish Oil
    • Omega Brine Shrimp – Brine Shrimp, Carrageenan
    • Plankton – Plankton, Carrageenan

    These blends cover all saltwater fish you can keep in the hobby and has enough variety to provide a balanced diet for your fish. It’s one of the best packages to purchase if you keep a fish only or fish only with live rock setup.

    The other benefit to this product is you will find it at chain pet stores. Don’t be fooled thinking it’s low quality because it’s sold at a general pet store. This has excellent ingredients and you can purchase this locally at later hours from these pet stores.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Multiple formulas
    • Easy to find
    • Good for all fish
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Large cubes

    7. Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omniflakes

    Contains Probiotics!
    Cobalt Aquatics Marine Omni Flakes

    One of the better flake foods available for marine fish today

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Cobalt was the first flake food on the market that contained probiotics in its formula. This omniflake product is a universal flake food designed for all saltwater fish. It is packed with squid and salmon proteins. It has spirulina, plankton, and krill for enhanced coloring.

    The Cobalt blue flakes contain the probiotics that support a healthy digestive and immune system for your fish. It will not cloud your water like lower-quality flake food.

    If you are going to use flake food, this is a good one to purchase. It’s not as available as Ocean Nutrition’s product, but I believe the overall quality of the formula is better. If you are going to purchase it, plan to buy it online as most fish stores won’t carry it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Probiotics
    • Great for small fish
    • Works in autofeeders
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Hard to find

    FAQS

    What Is The Best Thing To Feed This Type?

    The best thing to feed saltwater fish would be a blend of frozen food or cultured live foods. For frozen food, a blended product with probiotics like LRS Reef Frenzy is the best-prepared food you can purchase today. Plankton-infused brine shrimp or rotifers have excellent nutritional value for cultured live foods. California black worms are also fantastic to feed if you are willing to grow them.

    What Kind Of Food Do They Eat?

    Most saltwater fish are omnivores. This means they will prefer a mixed blend of foods. Generally, they will like Mysis shrimp, krill, squid, and calms for proteins. For greens, they will prefer spirulina, seaweed, and marine algae.

    Is Saltwater And Freshwater Fish Food The Same?

    No. Saltwater and freshwater fish food will have difficult ingredients. When looking for saltwater fish food, you will want marine-based ingredients. Avoid any land-based ingredients, fillers, and artificial enhancers. What comes from the ocean is what is best for saltwater fish!

    Are Tropical Flakes Good For Them?

    No. Tropical flakes are not suitable for saltwater fish. If you want flake food, you will want to purchase a flake food specifically formulated for marine fish. Brands like Ocean Nutrition and Cobalt provide some of the best flake foods. That being said, flake food should not be the primary food for your saltwater fish.

    How Long Can They Go Without Eating?

    Generally speaking, saltwater fish can go a few days to a week without eating. If you have trouble with a fish not eating, consider adding garlic to the food to trigger a feeding response. Foods like LRS and Masstick are known for having strong feeding responses. If your fish is still not responding, take a lot of signs for marine fish diseases.

    How Many Times A Day Should I Feed Them?

    You should feed your saltwater fish twice a day, assuming you have the filtration. This keeps your fish well-fed. If you have corals and pick the right foods, they will appreciate the extra food.

    Closing Thoughts

    Itโ€™s essential to feed your fish various foods to ensure they are getting the best possible nutrition. I have listed some of my favorite saltwater fish foods, but itโ€™s essential to do your research before buying anything. What are your go-to saltwater fish foods? Let me know in the comments below!

    References

  • Ram Cichlid: Complete Care Guide (Care, Tank Mates, and Breeding)

    Ram Cichlid: Complete Care Guide (Care, Tank Mates, and Breeding)

    The Reality of Keeping Ram Cichlid

    Let me be honest with you. Rams are one of the most returned fish in the aquarium trade. They are stunning, and that is what sells them. But beauty does not equal easy.

    Three colors, one fragile fish.

    They need warm, soft, acidic water. Rams need temperatures between 82 and 86F with a pH under 7.0 and very low hardness. If your tap water is hard and alkaline, you are fighting an uphill battle from day one. Trying to keep rams in water with a pH of 7.8 is a recipe for stress and disease.

    They are fragile when stressed. Rams have almost zero tolerance for ammonia or nitrite. Even a small spike that other fish would shrug off will kill a ram. Your tank needs to be fully cycled and stable for weeks before you add these fish.

    Breeding stock quality varies wildly. Most rams in pet stores come from mass breeding operations in Asia where they are pumped full of hormones and antibiotics. These fish look incredible in the store but often crash within days of being brought home. Buying from a reputable breeder costs more but dramatically improves your odds.

    They are not community fish in the traditional sense. Rams need peaceful, slow-moving tank mates that will not outcompete them for food or stress them with aggression. Fast, nippy fish like tiger barbs will make a ram’s life miserable.

    Biggest Mistake New Ram Cichlid Owners Make

    Putting them in an uncycled or newly cycled tank. Rams need a mature, stable ecosystem. If your tank has been running less than two months, it is not ready for rams. Period.

    Expert Take

    Buy from a breeder, not a chain store. Start with a proven pair if you want to breed. Keep the temperature at 84F and never let it drop below 80F. These three things alone will double your success rate with rams.

    Table of Contents

    Ram cichlids are beautiful, delicate, and unforgiving. They need pristine water, elevated temperatures, and rock solid stability. One parameter swing and they stop eating. Two and they are dead. I have watched experienced keepers lose rams because they treated them like any other dwarf cichlid. They are not. Rams demand precision, and they punish anything less. All commercially bred ram variants are weakened by hormone treatments and inbreeding. That makes them the most frequently killed dwarf cichlid by new keepers.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Ram Cichlid

    The number one mistake I see with ram cichlids is people treating them like any other hardy tropical fish. They’re not. Rams are sensitive to water quality in ways that most beginner fish aren’t, and they absolutely need warm water. 80ยฐF minimum, ideally 82-84ยฐF. I’ve seen countless rams die within weeks of purchase because they were kept at 76-78ยฐF in a standard community tank. The other common misconception is lumping all ram varieties together. German blue rams, Bolivian rams, and electric blue rams have meaningfully different care requirements, especially regarding temperature tolerance and hardiness.

    German blue rams are one of the most visually stunning dwarf cichlids you can keep. And one of the most frequently killed by hobbyists who underestimate their water chemistry requirements. I’ve kept rams over the years and the pattern I see is always the same: someone buys them because they look incredible in the store, puts them in a standard community tank at 76ยฐF, and loses them within a few weeks. Rams want warm, soft, slightly acidic water. 82 to 86ยฐF is the sweet spot. Get that right, along with stable parameters, and they’re genuinely rewarding fish with real personality. This guide covers everything: care, compatible tank mates, and what it actually takes to breed them.

    The Ram or dwarf Cichlid is a stunning and tranquil freshwater fish species that have been observed for over 30 years. They go by many names, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Blue ram, Butterfly ram, Ram ramirezi, and Dwarf cichlid. All these names lead to one beautiful fish species, belonging to the family Cichlidae and originating in South America, mostly in Amazon and Orinoco river extensions.

    Brief Overview of the Ram Cichlid

    Scientific NameMikrogeophagus ramirezi
    Common NamesRam Cichlid, blue ram, German blue ram, Asian ram, butterfly cichlid, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, dwarf butterfly cichlid, and Ramirezi
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginSouth America
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate-Advanced
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan3 – 4 years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMid to bottom
    Minimum Tank Size30 gallons
    Temperature Range75 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness6-14 d GH
    pH Range5.0 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyGeophaginae
    GenusMikrogeophagus
    SpeciesM. Ramirezi (Myers & Harry, 1948)

    Ram Cichlids Appearance

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank

    Ram cichlid are small dwarf cichlids with large fins that overshadow their oval-shaped bodies.

    Ram cichlid has vibrant reddish-orange, red and yellow spots all over their body with bright red eyes and a black band running through them. Due to their unique coloration and outstanding patterns, they make a great addition to your community aquarium. 

    In ram cichlids, the male rams are larger in length and possess the biggest dorsal fin. Because of their flowy dorsal fins and colorful appearance, they are commonly called butterfly cichlids.

    How Big Are They?

    Ram cichlids fall under the dwarf cichlids category. Therefore, they can never grow larger than 2-3 inches in captivity. However, in the wild, Ram cichlids are known to reach a maximum of 7 to 8 inches in length.

    How Long Do They Live?

    In captivity, the ram cichlid lives for up to 4 or 5 years. Even though hardy creatures, ram cichlids demand extreme care and a properly cleaned tank. Otherwise, they can develop deadly diseases such asย fish tuberculosis.ย If ram cichlids are not provided with ample care and maintenance, they can also die of stress.ย 

    The lifespan of Ram cichlids depends on many factors such as water quality, diet, water parameters and temperature, pH and water hardness, and above all, the overall health.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Ram cichlids are community tank fish with a peaceful nature. However, some types such as Bolivian rams can get semi-aggressive and territorial, when they feel their territories are being invaded. 

    Ram cichlids are average swimmers and quick at hiding in their favorite spots to catch prey to eat. Therefore, an aquarium should be well-planted with lots of aquatic plants and hiding places such as driftwood, caves, rocks, etc.

    Tank Mates 

    No matter how agile and peaceful Ram cichlids are, you cannot keep them with any other fish. Here are the 15 most suitable tank mates for your ram cichlid.

    Aquarium Requirements

    Ram cichlids are very particular about their living environment. If the fish tank doesn’t meet all the requirements, ram cichlid can go into stress and eventually die. Therefore, it is imperative to take preventive measures and provide them with optimal conditions.

    Tank Size

    Even though ram cichlids are dwarf cichlids, they require plenty of swimming space. Therefore, go for a tank that is at least 20 gallons or more. It also depends on the number of fish you want to keep. If you’re aiming for more than one male, opt for a 29-gallon tank. One other reason to keep them in a large aquarium is they are highly sensitive to nitrates and prefer a gentle flow. So, more water and a larger tank ensure the maximum health of your rams. 

    Not just that, they appreciate regular water changes, and so I recommend installing a premium quality canister filter to raise a healthy ram cichlid.

    Water Parameters 

    One thing I can safely say about these cichlids is they don’t need a chiller, but a heater would suffice their needs.

    Ram cichlids are tropical fish that thrive in warm water temperatures of around 78 to 85 ยฐF. Therefore, I recommend installing a high-quality heater to provide them with the optimal temperature. Also, your rams will live happily if you create a natural environment for them. For this, fish experts suggest putting a fine substrate and plenty of plants with lots of hiding places in the form of rocks and caves for hiding or breeding

    Tank Setup

    A ram cichlid is very susceptible to certain chemicals and rapid changes in its environment. All these rapid changes and traces of chemicals can cause piscine (fish tuberculosis) which is fatal and inevitable if water quality is ignored.

    As far as the lighting is concerned, a ram cichlid prefers dim lights. If you have plants, I recommend using adjustable LED lights, low light plants, or getting floating plants to provide them with suitable shade without affecting your plants.

    Since ram cichlid are sensitive, make sure to check the levels of ammonia and nitrates in their tank and change the water weekly to ensure quality.

    Breeding

    To ensure the successful breeding of ram cichlid in their breeding season, make sure to provide soft water conditions by adding a small bag of rinsed peat to your canister filter. Also, make sure to keep the water pH neutral within recommended temperature range as ideal water conditions increase their activity level and improve the chances of breeding. 

    In the natural habitat, a ram cichlid is a known open spawner, which means they create family groups and lay around 150 to 200 eggs approx.

    Adult rams are difficult to pair with and costly as well. The cheaper and more effective way is to get juveniles and let them grow and pair together. Since they are monogamous pairs, I recommend keeping the breeding pair in a separate breeding tank for spawning.

    Additionally, make sure to keep the water warmer in the breeding tank by around 2 to 3ยฐF and more acidic with a slow water flow.

    You can also feed the breeding pair with live food, such as blood worms, white worms, and brine shrimp as a treat once a day.

    The Birth Process

    Before keeping ram or dwarf cichlid, be informed that they do not lay eggs at all, if they are stressed during breeding. Rams only lay eggs when they are relaxed and devoid of other distractions. When their females are pregnant, their pink bellies become visibly fat and a female blue ram cichlid lay eggs under large, flat rocks and demands complete solitude. Hence, you need to to keep the pregnant female in a separate tank, no matter how peaceful they are.

    Your tank setup and parameters should also be adjusted according to the liking of your breeding pair. The water should be of a neutral pH to slightly higher for optimal breeding and the temperature should be raised than the usual temperature which is around 77ยฐF and 82ยฐF. The warmer temperatures increase activity and improve the chances of successful breeding.

    In cichlids, both mother and father fish raise the fry, which is unique for freshwater fish species. The fry rests in father ram’s mouth if they sense any potential danger and you should pay special attention to the fry because they is swept into the filter.

    What do They Eat?

    Feeding rams with high-quality food that is rich in protein is quintessential for successful breeding and raising healthy, happy rams.

    Since ram cichlid is omnivorous, it relies on plants and meat. In their natural habitat, they feed on floating plants and small insects, larvae, and other invertebrates. 

    However, seasoned aquarists recommend feeding them brine shrimp, earthworms, artemia, blood worms, tubifex, white worms, and cyclopeeze. But bear in mind that the live food should be free of contaminants like bacteria, fungus, etc to avoid diseases and other health-related issues.

    I don’t recommend pellets and flakes on a daily. However, if you’re feeding them commercial food, make sure it sinks as butterfly cichlids are not surface dwellers. Also, incorporate plants and vegetables in their diet and feed them two to five small portions of meals several times a week. This also helps preserve the quality of water. 

    If your butterfly cichlid is new to the tank, it will be timid at the feeding time and may completely refuse to eat as they settle in its new fish tank. To cater to this, isolate the fish and feed them with treats such as mosquito larvae and start establishing their regular diet.

    Diseases

    Like most fish, rams are also vulnerable to tropical fish diseases, especially to poor water quality and stress that weakens their immune system.

    One common disease in ram cichlids is ichwhich is treated by increasing the water temperature to 86ยบF for three days.

    The butterfly cichlids are also susceptible to: 

    1. Parasitic infestations
    2. Bacterial infections
    3. Fungal infections
    4. Tuberculosis
    5. In addition to these, these fish species can also develop Costia diseases, flatworm, and tapeworm infestations.

    Different Types

    Among the plethora of strains of Ram cichlids, there are four common types that aquarists love.

    German Blue Rams 

    German blue ram cichlids are very popular among the aquarists because they are not only beautiful but docile and peaceful community tank fish. Like other ram cichlids, German blue rams are bred in captivity and are small fish around 2.5 inches with a calm personality.

    German blue rams originate from the river basins of Orinoco, in the savannas of Venezuela, Colorado, and South America. The main body of a German blue ram cichlid is divided into three prominent colors mainly orange, gold, and turquoise blue. Additionally, there’s a black striped line on their face that covers their vivid orange eyes. The fins of German blue rams have blue mottling and a black dot on their midriff.

    German blue rams live with other community tank fishes peacefully. However, they are territorial and aggressive fish, especially when other fish try to invade their territories. However, German blue rams are known to be good parents that do not abandon their fry hatch.

    Bolivian

    Bolivan Ram Cichlid

    Bolivian Ram cichlids are the largest of all ram cichlids that can reach up to inches in length. They are also available in the wild.

    They originate from the Amazon river basins, especially in Brazil and Bolivia. Hence, the name. They are found in slow-moving streams, rivers, lakes, and pools with densely populated vegetation that protects them from predators and provides them with food.

    Bolivian rams demand larger tanks of no less than 30 gallons and the tank size is crucial to the health of this fish. They also love densely planted aquariums with an appropriate substrate so they can continue their regular foraging activities.

    The bodies of Bolivian ram cichlids have a simple base, mainly yellow or golden. However, the most prominent feature of these ram cichlids is the red highlights along with their fins. Due to this, they are also known as the red ram cichlid.

    Bolivian rams are popularly known for their sifting behavior as they love sifting through the substrate for food. The recommended diet of these ram cichlids should contain pellets, flakes, chopped brine shrimp, blood worms, earthworms, and other protein content. Seasoned aquarists discourage feeding them live food as it will contaminate the water and spread fatal infections.

    Fun Fact: The scientific name of Bolivian Ram Cichlid is not Mikrogeophagus ramirezi, as it is a different species, known as Mikrogeophagus altispinosus.

    Golden Ram Cichlids

    Golden Ram Cichlid

    Like German blue ram, gold rams are also dwarf cichlids that reach a maximum of 2.5 inches overall with a light golden body and electric blue mottling on the fin. The dorsal fin of gold rams is spiky and they have pale eyes with a black pupil. Out of the four ram cichlids, golden rams are the lesser known and like Bolivian Rams, they are also found in a natural habitat.

    The Golden Ram cichlid originates from the Rio Orinoco drainage within Venezuela and Colombia and they are found in pairs.

    Like most cichlid species, the golden ram is a wonderful, colorful, and peaceful fish that is suitable for a community aquarium. However, it becomes territorial sometimes. They require a lot of swimming space in a fish tank with ample plantations and hiding places. They are omnivorous, so should be fed a decent diet balanced with protein and occasional treats of live food.

    Electric Blue

    Electric blue rams (video source) are so much like their wild-caught cousins, but the differences lie in their coloration. The electric blue ram cichlids are radiant-blue in color with red patches around their body. Their eyes are orangish yellow along the forehead and that’s the most beautiful feature of electric blue rams.

    The electric blue ram cichlids are popular in the aquarium trade since 2009 with their ovoid body and long spiky fins like blue rams. Unlike other dwarf cichlids, the electric blue rams are not suitable for beginners as they are more sensitive than other cichlid species.

    Also, an electric blue ram is a very shy fish that hides in caves, rocks, or other hiding places when they feel bullied or threatened. 

    3 Main Sources

    If you want a Ram fish for your aquarium, you can source it from:

    1. Local breeders or tradeshows
    2. Overseas fish farms
    3. Domestic fish farms (from your own country; from Florida)

    There are many fish stores that sell Ram cichlid. However, these cichlids will most likely be imported from overseas. Imported cichlids will appear brighter with longer fins, but sometimes, they are artificially boosted by several hormones to enhance their vibrancy and overall appearance. However, the use of such hormones may adversely affect the life span of your cichlids.

    If you wish to get a Ram Cichlid from domestic farms, be informed that they are mostly bred in Florida. It is better to get your Ram cichlids from domestic farms than an overseas farm, as they are in a much better condition.

    But I recommend getting your aquarium buddies from a local breeder since they are kept in water conditions and environments similar to yours. Hence, they live and thrive in your home aquariums.

    How to Pick a Healthy Fish?

    So, you’ve made a decision to bring home a Ram cichlid? Great. But you should know how to pick a healthy one to avoid hazards.

    1. Select a healthy-looking, active ram cichlid that eats and swims well
    2. Pick the ones that compete with other rams for a great spawning site
    3. Avoid choosing skinny or shrunken rams with a hollow belly

    If you’re looking for a breeding pair, aquarium breeders suggest getting a colorful make with extended dorsal fins and great pectoral fins. And if you find the female already paired with the male ram cichlid, get them; as there are higher chances of successful breeding. 

    How to Distinguish between Male and Female?

    To distinguish between a male and female ram cichlid, always remember:

    1. Females have tiny, bright blue dots inside their black spots on the sides of their bodies
    2. Males lack these dots on their black spots.

    FAQs

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Ram cichlids require a large tank for free swimming space, easy feeding, and successful breeding. Therefore, a pair of ram fish can be kept in a 20- gallon community tank or an in a 10- gallon breeding rank with no other tank mates.

    You can add multiple rams in a community tank but you have to increase the aquarium size according to the number of pairs. For example, a 40-gallon tank should accommodate 2 pairs of rams.

    What Do They Eat?

    Blue rams are omnivorous so they prefer a mix of both; leafy plant and meaty proteins. Seasoned aquarists recommend feeding them brine shrimp, earthworms, artemia, blood worms, tubifex, white worms, and cyclopeeze. But bear in mind that the live food should be free of contaminants like bacteria, fungus, etc to avoid diseases and other health-related issues.

    Can I Keep A Single One?

    Rams are community tank fish and thrive well with other like-minded tank mates, but you can keep a single ram cichlid as long as you provide them with ample space, nutritious food, and lots of hiding places to forage and play.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Ram cichlids fall under the dwarf category so they don’t get beyondย 2-3 inchesย in captivity.

    Can You Mix Them Together?

    Yes, you can. However, please understand the needs of different cichlid types before mixing them together. Rams prefer warmer water temperatures that don’t go well with other fish. Also, choose a larger community tank of over 40 gallons to house multiple rams together.

    How Long Do T hey live?

    In captivity, the ram cichlid lives for up to 4 or 5 years. However, the lifespan of German blue rams highly depends on various factors, such as water quality, diet, water parameters and temperature, pH and water hardness, and above all, overall health.

    Is the Ram Cichlid Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • Ideal if you want a stunning dwarf cichlid centerpiece. Few freshwater fish match the color and personality of a healthy ram cichlid.
    • Not recommended for brand-new fishkeepers. Their sensitivity to water quality and temperature makes them a poor first fish.
    • Great for planted tanks. Rams thrive in well-planted setups and won’t destroy your plants like larger cichlids will.
    • Skip if you can’t maintain stable warm temperatures. If your tank regularly drops below 80ยฐF, rams will struggle and eventually get sick.
    • Good for experienced community keepers. They work well with small tetras, corydoras, and other peaceful species in a warm tank.
    • Consider a Bolivian ram instead if you want something hardier. Bolivians tolerate cooler water and wider parameters while offering similar personality.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Ram Cichlid

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They are surprisingly interactive. Rams will learn your feeding schedule and come to the front glass when they see you. They pick through substrate constantly, rearrange small decorations, and display for each other throughout the day.

    Breeding behavior takes over the tank. When a pair bonds and starts breeding, they become intensely territorial and will chase everything away from their chosen spawning site. A peaceful tank becomes a war zone overnight.

    They color up dramatically under the right conditions. A ram in a bare, stressed-out pet store tank looks nothing like a ram in a planted, warm, dimly lit aquarium. The transformation is one of the most dramatic in freshwater fishkeeping.

    They have a hierarchy. In groups, rams establish a clear pecking order. The dominant pair gets the best territory, and subordinates get pushed to the edges. You need enough space and hiding spots to make this work.

    How the Ram Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

    The most common comparison is between the ram cichlid (German blue ram) and the Bolivian ram. Having kept both extensively, I can tell you they’re different fish in almost every way that matters for daily care. German blue rams need water at 82-84ยฐF, soft and acidic conditions, and pristine water quality. Bolivian rams are comfortable at 72-79ยฐF, tolerate a wider pH range, and forgive the occasional missed water change. If you’re newer to fishkeeping or run a cooler community tank, the Bolivian ram is the smarter choice. German blue rams are more colorful, but that beauty comes with a higher maintenance cost.

    The apistogramma genus is the other natural comparison for anyone shopping dwarf cichlids. Apistos offer incredible variety. There are hundreds of species and color forms. And many are hardier than German blue rams. They are more territorial during breeding but less demanding on temperature. If you want a dwarf cichlid that gives you breeding behavior and personality without the temperature sensitivity of a German blue ram, a hardy apisto species like A. Cacatuoides is worth considering.

    Final Thoughts

    Rams do not give second chances. Your tank is either perfect or they die.

    Ram cichlids are very small fish around 2-3 inches in length. Despite their size, they require immaculate attention and care. Therefore, make sure to provide at least 20 gallons tank with lots of hiding places and aquatic plants to raise healthy and happy rams.

    South American Cichlid Species Directory

    This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

  • Chili Rasbora: Complete Care Guide for the Hobby’s Most Striking Nano Fish

    Chili Rasbora: Complete Care Guide for the Hobby’s Most Striking Nano Fish

    Table of Contents

    Chili rasboras are one of the most beautiful nano fish you can keep. But in the wrong setup, they disappear completely and never show their true color. I have seen people buy a school of 12, add them to a bright, bare tank, and wonder why they never see them. The fish are there. They are just hiding, stressed, and washed out. Build the right tank and chili rasboras are breathtaking. Skip the setup work and you have invisible fish you paid premium prices for.

    Do not add chili rasboras to a tank that has been running for less than three months. They need mature water. Period.

    Why Chili Rasboras Do Not Look Good in Most Tanks

    Most people who buy chili rasboras never see the fish at their best. The problem is almost always the setup, not the fish.

    Too few fish. Keep fewer than 10 and they hide constantly. Their confidence comes from numbers. A school of 6 looks terrible. A school of 15 transforms the tank.

    Too much light. Bright lighting washes out their red. They look best under moderate or diffused light with a dark substrate underneath.

    Not enough plants. Without dense planting they have nowhere to feel safe. They retreat to corners and you never see their natural swimming behavior.

    Wrong tank mates. Anything bigger than 2 inches makes them nervous. They need dedicated nano setups or very carefully chosen companions.

    Chili rasboras do not stand out. They come alive when the tank is built around them.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Chili Rasbora

    The most common mistake I see with chili rasboras is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Chili Rasboras look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, chili rasboras are adaptable. But “adaptable” doesn’t mean they’ll thrive in just anything. In my experience, keeping them closer to their natural soft, slightly acidic conditions brings out the best color and longevity.

    Expert Take

    Never keep chili rasboras in groups smaller than 10. The commonly recommended minimum of 6 is not enough. In my experience, 10 is where they start acting like chili rasboras instead of acting like scared fish hiding behind a filter.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Boraras brigittae
    Common Names Chili rasbora, Mosquito rasbora
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin Borneo, Southeast Asia
    Diet Carnivorous
    Care Level Moderate
    Activity Active
    Lifespan up to 8 years
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level Midwater
    Minimum Tank Size 5 gallons (10G recommended!)
    Temperature Range 70 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness 3 to 12 dkH
    pH Range 4 to 7
    Filtration/Water Flow Low
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg layer
    Difficulty to Breed Moderate
    Compatibility Community tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks? Yes

    Classification

    Kingdom Animalia
    Phylum Chordata
    Class Actinopterygii
    Order Cypriniformes
    Family Cyprinidae
    Genus Boraras
    Species B. Brigittae (Vogt, 1978)

    Origins and Habitat

    Chili rasboras are native to Borneo in Southeast Asia. Their natural habitat consists of pools in blackwater streams with extremely soft, and quite acidic water.

    The water is often full of aquatic and floating plants and partially shaded by the forest trees above. Plenty of leaf litter accumulates in the water and stains it a dark color, creating quite a dim environment.

    The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is the most popular of a few closely related Boraras species. If the word ‘boraras’ sounds a little fishy, that’s because it’s an anagram of the word r-a-s-b-o-r-a. Who says fish scientists aren’t fun?

    What Do They Look Like?

    What Does A Chili Rasbora Look Like

    The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is a tiny nano fish with bold looks. The first impression when seeing this species is a very small, reddish fish with bold markings and huge eyes.

    The males have deeper color but are smaller and more slender than the females, which also have rounder bellies. Dominant male chili rasboras become especially colorful, turning a deep red shade.

    There is a characteristic black stripe on the sides of the fish’s body which can shine blueish green in good light. Just above this black stripe, you’ll notice a bright red or orange line.

    Another stand-out feature is the red patch on the fish’s gill plate. This makes these nano schooling fish look like they have rosy cheeks!

    To top it off, chili rasboras have great-looking fins. The base of their tail, and their dorsal and anal fins also have black and orange spots and markings.

    How Big Are They?

    If you thought something like a neon tetra or a guppy was small, just wait until you meet the chili rasbora! Chili rasboras are one of the smallest fish in the hobby, maxing out at less than an inch in total length.

    In fact, a full-grown adult will only reach about 0.8 inches with good care. The male chili rasbora is slightly smaller and slimmer in build than the female.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Chili rasboras have a surprisingly long lifespan for such a small fish. In the right conditions, these hardy fish can live for up to 8 years!

    To keep your fish living longer, make sure you provide them with a healthy and varied diet, a comfortable tank setup, and perform regular maintenance to keep your water quality pristine.

    Temperament And Activity Level

    The chili rasbora is a pretty outgoing and confident little fish if kept in the right kind of tank setup. With larger fish as tank mates, however, chili rasboras are timid.

    They spend most of their time up around the middle and top levels of the aquarium, but they show up just about anywhere too. The chili rasbora is known as a schooling fish and they are very social, although they do not always group tightly.

    Chili rasboras are very peaceful fish, so you don’t need to worry about them picking on any other fish in a community tank.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    The chili rasbora is a tiny fish, which can make choosing suitable tank mates a little challenging. Many fish keepers prefer to keep chili rasboras in species-only aquariums because they work so great in schools in nano tanks.

    These fish will get along with most other peaceful fish, however, as long as they are not big enough to eat your rasboras.

    Read on to learn more about the best (and worst) tank mates for chili rasboras.

    Best Tank Mates

    The best tank mates for chili rasboras are other peaceful nano fish. Let’s take a look at some of the best tank mates for these amazing fish:

    Least Compatible Fish

    Chili rasboras are so small that many of the most popular tropical aquarium fish will likely swallow them whole. As a general rule, avoid keeping them, with anything over about 2.5 inches long.

    You’ll also want to avoid any predatory fish, aggressive fin-nippers, and boisterous species that could outcompete them for food.

    Here are a few common aquarium fish that will not make good tank mates for chili rasboras:

    Inverts

    The chili rasbora is one of the safest fish to keep with dwarf shrimp. That being said, they are micro-predators so they will feed on tiny baby shrimp that have just hatched. If you plan on breeding your shrimp, a shrimp-only setup would be wiser.

    Here are some shrimp that you can keep with the chili rasbora:

    You can also keep snails with your chili rasboras. Snails do a terrific job of keeping an aquarium clean, but some species can really multiply fast. Nerite snails are a great choice because they look amazing, eliminate algae, and best of all, they won’t breed in your fish tank!

    What Do They Eat?

    The Chili rasbora is a micro predator that feeds on tiny insects and bugs. The name mosquito rasbora is probably a good clue as to what these tiny fish love to feed on in nature.

    Think small when looking for food for these fish. They will do great on a diet of fish flakes and nano pellets, but supplementing with live/frozen foods will bring out the best condition and color in these nano fish. A good micro pellet formula is Xtreme Aquatics Foods Nano.

    Great For Nano Fish


    Xtreme Aquatic Foods Nano

    Xtreme Aquatics Nano formula is specially designed for smaller fish and contained a well balance mix of raw ingredients. It is a great staple food for your nano fish.


    Buy On Amazon

    Let’s take a look at some of the types of food you can feed the chili rasbora:

    Prepared Foods

    • Crushed flakes
    • Micro pellets

    Live & Frozen Foods

    • Daphnia
    • Tubifex
    • Chopped bloodworms
    • White worms
    • Micro worms
    • Mosquito larvae
    • Baby brine shrimp

    How Much And How Often To Feed Your Fish

    Chili rasboras need to be fed regularly, at least once a day. It is better to feed these tiny fish small amounts two or three times a day, however.

    The chili rasbora is often kept in nano tanks as small as 5 gallons, but this makes overfeeding especially dangerous. A bunch of uneaten food in such a small volume of water can cause dangerous ammonia spikes.

    So how do you know how much to feed your fish?

    When you go to feed your chili rasboras, watch them eat- they should finish all the food in just a minute or two. Feeding them this amount 2 or 3 times a day is a great way to keep your fish well-fed, without creating too much waste.

    Setting Up Your Fish Tank

    The chili rasbora (Boraras brigittae) is right at home in a nano tank. They do best in a planted tank with a dark substrate and low water flow. Chili rasboras love live plants, and floating types are a great choice.

    Read on to learn more about how to set up a great chili rasbora tank!

    Tank Size

    The chili rasbora is one of the smallest freshwater fish in the aquarium trade, so they make a great choice for fish keepers who don’t have a lot of space.

    A small group of these nano fish can thrive in tanks as small as 5 gallons. This would be the minimum tank size, however, and if you’re new to fish keeping, I’d recommend a larger tank like a 10 or 15-gallon.

    Remember, the smaller an aquarium, the faster things can go wrong, so go slightly bigger to be on the safe side. A ten-gallon tank, for example, will be easier to maintain and allow you to keep an awesome little school of about 20 of these fish quite safely.

    Plants

    Chili rasboras do really well in a planted aquarium. Not only will your fish feel more at home between the leaves and roots, but live plants also have a number of great benefits when it comes to maintaining the high water quality these fish need.

    If you’re not already a planted tank enthusiast, consider picking up some common and easy to grow species like:

    These aquarium plants don’t need much maintenance and they won’t take over your tank too fast. Down the road you can look at improving your lighting, picking up some aquascaping tools, and investing in a CO2 injection system. I must warn you though, that the planted aquarium hobby can be addictive!

    Go ahead and browse through some of the great plant care articles on this website to learn more about specific species and their care.

    Substrate

    Chili rasboras look (and feel) their best when kept over a dark substrate. You can use a fine gravel or sand substrate as long as it is well rinsed and aquarium safe. If you plan on setting up a heavily planted tank, an aquarium soil would be a great option.

    Decor

    Chili rasboras like plenty of structure in their environment where they can hide out from predators. Fine driftwood like spider wood is great because it mimics the tangled roots and branches these fish are used to in their natural habitat.

    Water Quality

    The chili rasbora is actually really adaptable to a wide range of parameters, but they do require good water quality. They should never be added to an uncycled aquarium or kept in a tank with unstable or poor water quality. Consider doing a fishless cycle to make sure you start on the right foot.

    Filtration

    Filtration is vital because the chili rasbora requires, stable, high-quality water with zero nitrites and ammonia. This means your aquarium needs to be cycled before you introduce your fish.

    If you’re not sure how to cycle a new aquarium, go ahead and check out my article on aquarium cycling to learn everything you need to know about this vital step!

    The type of filter you choose is not that important as long as it is a good size for your tank. The most important factor to consider is that chili rasboras are tiny and they will get blown around in a strong current. They can also be sucked into strong filter intakes, so you might want to choose a model that has a prefilter sponge.

    Water Parameters

    The chili rasbora prefers a water temperature anywhere between 70ยฐF and 82ยฐF, with something around the middle of this range probably being ideal. Use a heater to keep the temperature stable in your tank.

    These fish prefer soft water that is slightly acidic. Aim for the following parameters:

    • pH: 4-7
    • GH: 1-2
    • KH: 3-12dKH

    The chili rasbora needs really good water quality in order to thrive. Your water test results should always read zero ammonia, zero nitrite, and less than 20 ppm nitrates.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is the only way to keep nano tanks clean and safe for your fish. Performing a partial water change of 20-30% per week is a good way to keep nitrate levels in a safe range.

    Be sure to remove any dead or dying plant matter, and suck up the dirt and waste that accumulates on your substrate with a gravel vacuum. If necessary, you can also rinse out your filter sponge media in the water you have just taken out of the tank. Remember to look after those precious beneficial bacteria!

    Your tap water probably contains chemicals like chlorine or chloramine that are added to keep the water safe for human use. Unfortunately, these chemicals are toxic to fish, so make sure you use a water conditioner to neutralize the harmful effects.

    Testing

    The only way to know for sure if your maintenance schedule is appropriate is to test your aquarium water. Get yourself a test kit that can measure the following parameters:

    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate
    • pH
    • GH
    • KH

    Test kits are really easy (and fun) to use. They work either by adding a drop of solution to some aquarium water in a test tube or by simply dipping a strip into your tank. All you need to do next is watch for the solution or strip to change color, and compare the results with the provided chart.

    You should test your aquarium water before introducing your fish. This way you will know what your pH and water hardness are out of the tap.

    If your tap water pH and hardness are too high, you need to use rainwater or RO water in your tank. Avoid using distilled water that is not remineralized.

    Breeding

    Breeding rasboras at home is a fun hobby that anyone can do with the right knowledge. Building up a big school can be a slow process, however, because these tiny fish only lay a few eggs at a time. Here is a wonderful video above by Mark’s Aquatics that goes into great detail. I have a few summary points below. Here’s what you need to know:

    Sexing

    Before you can breed these fish, you’ll need to make sure you have both males and females. The female chili rasbora grows a little larger than the males and will also have a rounder belly. Dominant male chili rasboras will turn a bright and deep shade of red.

    How They Breed

    The chili rasbora is an egg-scattering fish that doesn’t show any parental care. This means they won’t look after their eggs or fry. If your fish are happy in their tank and in good condition, they will start breeding on their own and you might even spot some babies after a while.

    If you want to breed this species in a more controlled way, you’re going to want to set up a separate breeding tank. The breeding tank only needs to hold 3 gallons or so, and a small sponge filter will work great for aerating the water and maintaining water quality.

    Conditioning And Breeding Your Fish

    Start by feeding your fish high-quality foods like micro worms and brine shrimp for a few days to bring them into peak condition.

    Next, add some well-conditioned adults to your breeding tank and if they are happy, the female chili rasbora should lay eggs after a day or so. Remove the breeding fish and the eggs will start to hatch after about 2 days.

    Raising Fry

    Chili rasbora fry need to be fed from their second day after hatching. Feed them infusoria. The fry are very small after hatching, so wait at least a week before doing a water change to avoid sucking them up by accident.

    Health & Disease

    The chili rasbora is known to be hardy fish, but like any species, they are susceptible to various health problems. Read on to learn how to evaluate your fish’s health, and which problems to look out for.

    Evaluating Your Their Health

    Whether you’re picking out fish down at your local fish store, or just keeping an eye on the health of your pets at home, knowing what to look out for is really important. Healthy chili rasboras are:

    • Active
    • Colorful
    • Able to swim right side up, without floating or sinking

    Unhealthy chili rasboras can show the following warning signs:

    • Rapid breathing
    • Floating, sinking, or swimming upside down
    • Flashing and rubbing their sides on the substrate
    • White spots on the body
    • Bulging eyes
    • White stringy feces
    • Bloating

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Aquarium fish can get sick for a number of reasons. The most common causes are infections from fungi, bacteria, viruses, and parasites. They can also suffer from physical injuries of course.

    Infections can come in with new fish or plants, so it’s important to quarantine before adding them to your tank. Fish that are comfortable in their environment have a much smaller chance of getting sick than fish that are under stress, so always look for the root cause when any fish gets ill.

    Here are some possible health issues (and their treatment) that your chili rasboras could develop:

    • Ich. Treat with medication or salt
    • Columnaris- Treat with antibiotics, medication, or salt
    • Fin rot. Treat with antibiotics or salt
    • Pop-eye- Treat with Epsom salts

    Whenever you are unsure, check my post about fish diseases and consult a veterinarian for more advice. A best practice is to quarantine your fish prior to putting them into a display tank. It’s more common with saltwater tanks, but it is also done in freshwater tanks, especially planted aquariums.

    Where To Buy

    Chili rasboras are popular fish that are available from many local pet and fish stores. There are a few very similar-looking species in the hobby though, so make sure you’re getting genuine chili/mosquito rasboras.

    If you can’t find any chili rasboras locally, or just prefer the convenience of online shopping, these fish are available from a number of trusted online retailers.

    FAQs

    How many should be kept together?

    The chili rasbora is a social schooling fish that should always be kept in groups. A minimum number of 6 or so is recommended, but 20 or more would be much better.

    Are they hardy?

    The chili rasbora is adaptable to a wide range of water parameters but they do require excellent water quality. They are very small fish, so it is best to acclimate them slowly when introducing them to your tank.

    How big do they get?

    The chili rasbora is a truly tiny species. They reach a maximum size of about 0.8 inches, but they is as small as 0.25 inches when you buy them!

    What fish can live with them?

    The chili rasbora can live with other freshwater fish in a community tank. Compatible tank mates include peaceful fish like otocinclus catfish, pygmy corydoras, and other fish that stay small. Avoid larger fish that could eat your chili rasboras or outcompete them for food.

    Can they live alone?

    Chili rasboras should never be kept alone because they are naturally social schooling fish. It is best to keep them in a nice big school, the bigger the better!

    Do they need plants?

    Chili rasboras don’t necessarily need plants to survive but they will be much happier in a heavily planted tank because this is similar to their natural habitat.

    Is the Chili Rasbora Right for You?

    Before you add a chili rasbora to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a mature, cycled tank that has been running for at least three months.
    • You are willing to keep a school of at least 10. Fewer than that and they hide.
    • You have a planted nano tank with moderate or dim lighting and dark substrate.
    • You are not planning to keep them with anything larger than 2 inches.
    • You are comfortable feeding micro foods like crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp.
    • You enjoy slow payoff. The best color takes weeks to develop in the right conditions.
    • You can commit to stable water parameters. These fish do not tolerate swings.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the chili rasbora is worth serious consideration. If several do not, choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to force it.

    What It Is Actually Like Keeping Chili Rasboras

    You will not see them at first. For the first week they hide in plants and you will wonder if they are still alive. This is normal. Give them time.

    The color builds slowly. They do not look like the photos on day one. In mature, tannin-stained water with dim lighting, the red deepens over weeks. In clean, bright water, they stay pale.

    They school tighter when they feel safe. A stressed group scatters. A confident group moves together in a way that makes the entire tank look alive. That only happens in the right conditions.

    Feeding is a challenge. They have tiny mouths. Standard flake food is too big. You need crushed flake, micro pellets, or live baby brine shrimp. If you are not feeding them properly, they are slowly starving.

    How the Chili Rasbora Compares to Similar Species

    Chili Rasbora vs Ember Tetra

    Want a subtle, refined aquascape fish that rewards patience and perfect conditions? Chili rasbora. Want a visible, forgiving nano fish that shows color from day one without any special setup? Ember tetra. If you are not willing to build the tank around the fish, get the ember tetra. It will look better in a generic setup every single time.

    The chili rasbora occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby. The most common question people ask is whether they should choose the chili rasbora or something similar that is more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you are keeping. If your setup matches what the chili rasbora needs, nothing else compares. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Final Thoughts

    Chili rasboras in a bright, bare tank are pale ghosts. In a blackwater nano with leaf litter and dim light, they turn into the most intense red nano fish in the hobby.

    Chili rasboras (Boraras brigittae) are one of the smallest tropical fish in the hobby. These stunning little fish are the perfect choice for fishkeepers who want a large number of fish but don’t have much room. Follow the tips in this guide to set up a great tank for your chili rasboras, and keep them happy and healthy.

    Do you keep chili rasboras in your fish room? Tell us about your nano setup in the comments below!

    This article is part of our Rasbora Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

    Check out our rasbora video where we cover the most popular rasboras in the hobby:

    This guide is part of our Rasboras & Danios: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular rasbora and danio species.

  • Betta Bubble Nest: Why Your Betta Builds Them (And What It Tells You)

    Betta Bubble Nest: Why Your Betta Builds Them (And What It Tells You)

    Betta bubble nests are one of my favorite things to see in a betta tank. it’s a clear sign the fish is comfortable and healthy. I’ve kept many bettas over the years, and the bubble nest behavior is something I still find interesting to observe. A lot of keepers get confused when they first see it, thinking something is wrong. Here’s what bubble nests actually mean and what to do (or not do) about them.

    If you keep a male betta and notice a cluster of bubbles at the water surface, that’s actually good news. it means your fish is healthy, comfortable, and feeling secure in its environment. Bubble nest building is a natural breeding behavior in bettas, and in my experience, a betta that builds consistently is one that’s being kept well. Floating plants like Indian almond leaves and Amazon frogbit encourage nest building by giving the male a surface to anchor bubbles to. This article explains why bettas build them, what triggers the behavior, and what to do (and not do) when you find one in your tank.

    Introduction

    Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, are some of the most popular fish in the freshwater tropical fish hobby. The most common species of this fish, scientifically known as Betta splendens, originates from Southeast Asia, including Thailand, Vietnam, and Cambodia.

    Today, these fish are regarded as a nano species, being successfully kept in 5 gallon and up aquariums. Bettas are very hardy, but need a constant water temperature between 78-80ยฐ F with more acidic water conditions. They are also more susceptible to fin rot due to their long, trailing fins.

    Male betta fish are much more ornate than their female counterparts, coming in nearly every color and pattern imaginable; some variations even change colors over time, like the koi betta fish! In contrast, females have much simpler color combinations and shorter fins. Contrary to popular belief though, both male and female betta fish are just as aggressive as one another and do best in species-only or solitary aquarium setups.

    Still, betta fish have been selectively bred in the aquarium hobby for centuries for their best colors, shapes, and sizes and are popular among aquarists at all levels. However, some of their natural behaviors have followed them into captivity, such as their unique bubble nest building ability.

    What Is A Betta Bubble Nest?

    If you’ve never kept a labyrinth fish before, you won’t know what a bubble nest is or what it looks like. You might not even realize your betta fish is making bubble nests and might mistake them for an equipment malfunction or poor water quality. When in fact, a bubble nest is usually a sure sign that your fish is very happy!

    What Is A Bubble Nest

    Before understanding why bettas make bubble nests, you need to be able to identify them. Bubble nests are tight clusters of small bubbles that are usually connected to the side of the aquarium glass or live floating plants and come in all shapes and sizes. These bubble nests take on a white, foamy appearance at the water’s surface which can be concerning to unknowing hobbyists.

    It should be noted that some bettas don’t build bubble nests at all. In fact, some wild species, like the Krabi mouth-brooding betta (Betta simplex), raise their young inside their mouths. However, Betta splendens, the most popular betta species to keep, do create bubble nests when they’re ready to reproduce, making these foamy creations a common sight for beginner and advanced hobbyists alike.

    Why Is Your Fish Making Them?

    In order to understand why betta fish make bubble nests, the natural habitat of betta fish needs to be considered. These fish come from hot, shallow, and stagnant water that is often cut off from influxes of nutrients and oxygen. This lack of oxygen especially has caused betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ.

    The labyrinth organ is a lung-like structure that allows betta fish to breathe atmospheric air from the surface of the water. This makes survival possible when dissolved oxygen levels are low due to warm temperatures or lack of water flow. In the aquarium setting, it has been found that bettas will still exhibit this behavior even if oxygen levels are adequate.

    However, bubble nests are made most often when male betta fish are ready to spawn. This is typically a good indicator that all environmental needs have been met and the fish is happy. However, some male fish will never make a bubble nest while others may make one every other week. If your male betta fish isn’t making a bubble nest on his own, then it is possible to transfer bubble nests between tanks.

    Once ready, the male betta will create a nest using a mix of oxygen and saliva. This nest will usually be situated against the glass of the aquarium or in a highly foliated area away from strong currents; these nests are very delicate and can easily be broken apart by overly strong water currents or other disruptions on the surface of the water!

    To help your betta fish successfully build a nest, it’s recommended to keep ambient air more humid than usual; some hobbyists place a plastic film over the cover of their betta tank to increase humidity levels. Tannins from organics and decomposing leaves, such as those from Indian almond leaves, may also help your fish keep its nest together.

    Once the betta bubble nest has been built, it’s time for the spawning process to begin.

    Fish Spawning

    Male betta fish will build bubble nests when they’re ready to spawn. Sometimes, a female betta needs to be introduced first in order to trigger this response. In this case, the male betta fish will build a bubble nest in the 24 hours following the introduction of a female. If the female is not ready, then she may destroy the nest and the process will need to be restarted.

    During this time, the male will flash the female with a captivating dance and bold flaring (video reference). Eventually, the two will embrace with the male fertilizing eggs as the female releases them. The fertilized eggs will start to sink until the male carefully transfers them up into the bubble nest; the female may help during this process, though she is more likely to eat them than to help.

    Most female betta fish lay about 50 eggs at one time, though some have been known to lay close to 500.

    Do Females make this?

    For the most part, only male betta fish create bubble nests once they’re ready to mate. While rare, it’s not unheard of for female betta fish to create nests of their own.

    The process is the same, just without a male. The female betta will create a bubble nest out of saliva and oxygen, drop the unfertilized eggs, and place them into the nest.

    Have a short-finned male betta variety, like a plakat? Some short-finned male bettas have been mistaken for females, leading unknowing hobbyists to believe that their female fish has just built a nest. Though this is a matter of misidentification, female betta fish really do make their own nests sometimes!

    How To Take Care

    There are a few reasons why betta fish are popular to keep and breed. One, they’re beautiful fish that don’t require a lot of maintenance. Two, they’re one of the easiest species to breed because the male fish do all the work!

    Male betta fish make, protect, and care for their bubble nests until the fry have hatched. There are a few behaviors that male betta fish adopt to make sure that their bubble nest is as successful as it can be.

    Male Fish Behaviors

    When your male betta fish starts bubble nest building, it will take all of his attention. This is how these fish manage to make relatively large nests within a day!

    Once the bubble nest has been completed, the male will stay under the nest waiting for a potential mate. If a female betta fish enters his territory, then she will become the main focus. The male betta will then display his best colors and finnage while flaring his gills. During this courting, the male will chase and nip at the female, which can become deadly in overly aggressive situations.

    After mating, the male will spend the next day picking up and placing fertilized eggs in the bubbles. For the next few days, the male betta fish will ensure the health and safety of the nest. He will continue to stay underneath the bubbles, chasing away potential predators, including female bettas.

    At the same time, he will fan the nest to keep oxygen and nutrients flowing over the eggs. He will also eat and remove any abnormal or mold-infected eggs that could potentially harm the other eggs in the bubble nest. The male betta fish will also eat any leftover unfertilized eggs.

    Once the eggs hatch, the male will return to being a regular betta fish. At this point, the fry becomes viable food and the male should be returned back to his normal betta tank. The fry should be given small foods, like baby brine shrimp, until they’re ready to accept adult foods.

    Being so close to the surface of the water also helps the fry mature as they have direct access to oxygen rich air.

    Should You Remove It?

    For the most part, it won’t matter to your betta fish if you accidentally or purposefully destroy its nest. These nests regularly get disrupted in the wild and need to be rebuilt. If your fish is determined, then it will simply build another nest when it’s ready.

    Just because your male betta fish builds a bubble nest doesn’t mean you’ll have 50 baby betta fish swimming around your tank! Remember, a female needs to spawn with the male to deposit fertilized eggs. As long as there’s no potential mate, your male betta fish’s bubble nest will not result in baby bettas.

    But what if you don’t like how betta fish bubble nests look? Is it okay to remove them?

    Male betta fish can become especially territorial during these times, so it may be beneficial to remove the nest if keeping your betta in a community tank where other fish and invertebrates could be injured.

    It is also believed that bubble nest building provides enrichment to bettas. Though there are better ways to keep your betta fish entertained, giving your fish a new project to work on in the form of building another nest is encouraged from time to time.

    What Happens If You Destroy It?

    Nothing will happen if you destroy your betta’s bubble nest. Your fish won’t hate you or get stressed out. Betta fish can be quite resilient and determined if they need to be and will quickly rebuild their nest if they’re ready.

    For most hobbyists, bubble nests get in the way of performing regular tank maintenance. During water changes and substrate vacuuming, it can be very difficult to avoid a bubble nest and it will usually end up partially or fully destroyed.

    In this case, it is much more important that the fish receives proper care than for the bubble nest to be preserved. As mentioned before, the fish will quickly rebuild the nest if it’s ready to breed. However, special care should be given to fertilized nests. Disrupting a fertilized betta bubble nest can lead to the loss of the entire brood.

    Do They Go Away On Their Own?

    In general, there’s no reason to worry about a vacant bubble nest. It will likely dissipate on its own in a few days after being built. However, some betta fish will constantly maintain their bubble nests, adding new bubbles whenever they seem to thin out.

    Male betta fish are great parents. They keep their nests clean and oxygenated. But what happens if the nest sits empty for too long?

    In these cases, it’s recommended to regularly check the nest for signs of mold or other fungi that could be growing. Though this is unlikely to happen, it may be safer to remove the nest and start over new after a certain point to prevent contamination.

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish are some of the most interesting fish when it comes to their mating rituals. When they’re ready, males will build a bubble nest to store fertilized eggs from female bettas. However, a betta fish bubble nest is also a good sign of water quality, a quality diet, and an overall happy and healthy betta fish!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • 7 Best Flake Fish Foods: What I’ve Actually Used After 25 Years in the Hobby

    7 Best Flake Fish Foods: What I’ve Actually Used After 25 Years in the Hobby

    Flake food gets a bad reputation in some hobbyist circles, but the truth is that quality varies enormously. I’ve used a lot of different flake and pellet foods over 25 years, and the gap between a quality flake and a cheap grocery store brand shows up in your fish. in their color, their health, and how much uneaten food is clouding your water. The main thing I look at is the ingredient list: fish meal and marine proteins should be at the top, not corn starch or soy fillers. Here are the 7 best flake foods I’d actually recommend based on real-world use.

    Our Criteria

    There are hundreds of fish food available and dozens of fish food brands. Not all are created equal. There are great fish flakes – and also really bad ones. Filtering through all the types of foods available can be a major tasks, and I’m here to make it easier for you. Here is what I looked at when creating this list.

    Probiotics

    Probiotics is new in the fish-keeping hobby, but has been known in other pet since the 1970s. It’s also been recommended by veterinarians for other animals such as cats and dogs. Fish needs probiotics just like these other animals. Gut health prevents diseases in fish. As such, these foods with probiotics are great a extra look.

    Whole Foods

    Fish food that uses whole ingredients like krill, shrimp, and plankton are what we want to see in our foods. We want to avoid artificial color enhancers and fillers in our fish food.

    Brand Name

    You should purchase from a trusted fish food brand that has done the research and advanced hobbyists’ trust. Brands like Ocean Nutrition and Xtreme are well-known in the community. Other brands like Cobalt have pioneered probiotics and pushed product innovation in our industry.

    Availability

    You want to be able to find these foods locally and online when you need to buy them. I’ve avoided smaller sellers for this reason. While their fish food may be of great quality, they may not be available from internet retailers and local fish stores. I prefer to recommend fish that are readily available for easier ordering.

    The Fish Flake Food Candidates

    Below are the flake foods that made the cut. I’ll go into detail below

    In a hurry? I recommend Cobalt Flake Food for freshwater and Ocean Nutrition Flakes for saltwater fish!

    PictureNameFeaturesLink
    Tropical Fish Choice!
    Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake
    Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake
    • Probiotics
    • Color enhancing
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Saltwater Fish Choice!
    Formula One Flake Food
    Formula One Flake Food
    • Marine formula
    • For all saltwater fish
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Fluval Bug Bites Flakes Fluval Bug Bites Flakes
    • High protein
    • Made of insects
    Buy On Amazon
    Xtreme Aquatic Community Crave Fish Food Xtreme Aquatic Community Crave Fish Food
    • Omnivore mix
    • Good for all fish
    Buy On AmazonBuy On EBay
    Cobalt Aquatics Spirulina Flakes Cobalt Aquatics Spirulina Flakes
    • Spirulina Based
    • Good for plant and algae eaters
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Formula Two Flake Food Formula Two Flake Food
    • Algae and spirulina based
    • For saltwater Fish
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Avoid!
    Wardley Tropical Fish Food Flakes
    Wardley Tropical Fish Food Flakes
    • Easy to find
    • Cheap
    Buy On Amazon

    The 7 Best (2023 Reviews)

    Now that we know what foods made, lets see why they stand out. Let’s start with the first pick!

    1. Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake Food

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food
    Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake

    Best Tropical Fish Flake Food

    Cobalt offers a premium level flake food with probiotics. A color enhancing formula that works great for all tropical fish

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    If you are looking for a flake fish food that can be considered a staple in their diet, the Cobalt brand is the way to go. Cobalt was the first in the industry to include probiotic bacteria in their flake formulas. You get some great benefits from a probiotic product including:

    • Better digestion
    • Better coloration
    • Cleaner aquariums

    This formula incorporates Bacillus subtilis and Bacillus liceniformis. Subtilis has been proven to increase fish food digestibility and prevent diseases in both shrimp and fish1. Liceniformis has been studied and shown to improve the health of Tilapia fish2.

    This is the highest quality flake you can purchase today. It will not cloud your water like lower quality foods and promotes your fish’s health. This has my full recommendation if you own freshwater fish and you want to use flake foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Probiotics 
    • Works for all tropical fish
    • Made in the USA
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Larger flakes

    2. Ocean Nutrition Formula One Flakes

    I will be very honest to my readers here. I’m not a fan of flake food when it comes to saltwater fish. There are so many better options these days with balanced frozen foods from LRS that really should be your go to.

    However, I understand that people who keep marine fish want easy and convenient when they are in a rush. For cases like this, my recommendation is the Ocean Nutrition brand of fish food. This fish food is made in the USA and contains a solid nutrient profile that supports all saltwater fish.

    You will see some high quality ingredients in the formula such as salmon, mussels, kelp, and brine shrimp. This is the flake variation of Ocean Nutrition’s great frozen food. I do recommend that you get their frozen food too as it is better for your fish overall.

    What puts Ocean Nutrition ahead of Cobalt in the Saltwater hobby is their availability and their brand name. You can get Ocean Nutrition products even at chain pet stores and they have been around the hobby for many years. If you have to have a flake food for your saltwater fish, this is the fish food to buy!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Probiotics 
    • Works for all tropical fish
    • Made in the USA
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Larger flakes

    3. Fluval Bug Bites Flakes

    Fluval Bug Bites Flakes

    A flake version of Fluval’s amazing pellet bug bits products. Great for all tropical fish and high in protein.

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    I love the Fluval Bug Bites food line. They built their formula off solider fly larvae, which freshwater fish tend to go crazy for. Not only that, but because this tropical fish food is more to most fish’s natural diet, it’s healthier for them overall. This variant is Fluval’s flake version, and is a color enhancing formula. It has the same formula just processed down to a flake. Learn more about their formula in the video by Fluval.

    This fish food is high in protein, has a great amino acid profile, and easily digestible – which means it shouldn’t cause bloat!. It’s based on your fish’s natural prey (most freshwater fish eat insects).

    While this make it super convenient for the end hobbyist, I do feel their pellet product is the better buy. If you want to diversify your food selection, definitely buy it. I would just prefer to go with their pellet version if I could only buy one.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Insect based
    • Works for all tropical fish
    • Made in the USA
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Pellet product is superior

    4. Extreme Aquatic Community Crave

    Xtreme Aquatic Community Crave Fish Food

    Extreme Aquatics Fish Food offers a high quality flake food. A 60/40 mix of spirulina and krill

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Ebay

    Extreme aquatics has really built a name for themselves as an independent company. They are not like your Hagen or Tetra, which are massive fish brands. They built their reputation with YouTube influencers who are passionate fish keepers. They have the likes of Aquarium Co-Op, KG Tropicals, and Bay Area Aquatics who have all endorsed their products. They have even been featured at my favorite aquarium trade show, Aquashella.

    All these endorsements tell us that Xtreme is made for serious hobbyists. This formula is their community crave product. This formula is built for community fish tanks where you will have a blend of various freshwater fish. Their formula consists of 60% Spirulina and 40% Krill. This makes it perfect for all fish.

    This food has an amazing feeding response for a flake food and you can see the quality in the flake itself from it’s texture. The only reason this does go ahead of Cobalt is because I’m partial to the probiotics (it’s also more expensive because it comes in bigger sizes). Several hobbyist would disagree with me, but that’s why I have a list here – so you can make the decision for what is best for your fish. You can’t go wrong with Xtreme foods!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • 60/40 mix
    • Works for all tropical fish
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Hard to find locally

    5. Cobalt Aquatics Spirulina

    Cobalt Aquatics Spirulina Flakes

    Cobalt Offers a great spirulina flake formula with probotics. Get for fish that need greens in their diet

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    For fish that need their greens, spirulina is what you want to buy. Having a product with spirulina and probiotics take it to another level. That is exactly what this fish food is by Cobalt Aquatics.

    This food is perfect for algae eating fish like molly fish, African cichlids, and even saltwater fish like tangs and rabbitfish. This food is easy to feed, easily digestible, and won’t cloud up your water.

    It is the the best flake food for algae and plant eating fish. There is no second. You will not be disappointed.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Probiotics 
    • Great for fish that need greens
    Cons
    • Expensive

    6. Formula Two Flakes

    When it comes to algae eating saltwater fish, nori is a great choice, but not always the most convenient. If you want a convenient food for them, Ocean Nutrition’s Formula Two flakes are a great choice.

    This food mixes marine algae and spirulina. It also includes garlic, which is a appetite enhancer for an added fedding response. These flakes are easy to digest and easy to feed.

    While nori and Ocean Nutrition’s frozen food version of formula two are a better choice, this is great to use when you don’t have time to prepare food.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great for marine fish that need greens
    • Three types of greens
    • Readily available
    Cons
    • Expensive

    7. Wardley Tropical

    Avoid!
    Wardley Tropical Fish Food Flakes

    Wardley is a basic brand of fish food that you will fish in grocery stores. While your fish will eat it, it’s not the best food out there. Ok if you are in a pinch

    Buy On Amazon

    Warley is the type of freshwater fish food you will find in grocery stores and mega retailers like Walmart. While you can find this easily and even it purchase it late at night since these store are open 24-7.

    However, I would caution aquarist in purchasing foods like this. These lower quality foods usually contain fillers and they are known to cloud up your water.

    With so many other superior choices available both locally and online, it’s not my first choice. Purchase the others mentioned here and your freshwater fish will thank you for it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Easy to find
    • Made for all tropical fish
    Cons
    • Cheap
    • Not the best quality
    • Clouds water
    • Strong smelling

    Knowing The Hierarchy

    While this is a flake food blog post, it would be wrong of me not to say that there are better foods out there. Let’s look at the full list of foods available. In summary from lower quality to best it goes flake foo -> pellet food -> freeze-dried food > frozen > cultivated live foods.

    Pellets

    Pellet food is a step up from flake food as it is less processed. This is usually where more advanced aquarists start with staple food. You tend to get higher quality brands and foods when it comes to pellets. The downsides with pellet food is they expand with water and can cause bloat. Look for the best pellet food that you can buy to avoid bloating and digestion issues.

    Freeze Dried

    Freeze Dried Food is more of a whole food, which is great for digestion. Then can be soaked in vitamins and can provide better overall nutritional content than pellet food when you combine vitamins.

    Freeze dried food is more expensive than pellet food and require vitamins since they are usually only include single ingredients – like freeze dried krill.

    Frozen

    Frozen foods offer a great combination of variety in their formulas and whole foods being frozen. They are very filling foods and will make your fish look fat in a hurry. The best foods you can purchase in the hobby are going to be frozen and are going available only in specialty retailers or only online.

    Frozen food is the most expense of all the types food and also the most nutrient dense. It’s easy to overfeed with this food. It’s also harder to feed small fish with frozen food because of their small mouths.

    Cultivated Live

    While you can purchase live foods at a local fish store, I usually do not recommend this because there is a good chance you will introduce diseases to your aquarium. I prefer if you are going to feed live foods that you consider cultivating them. Blackworms, rotifers, and brine shrimp are the best foods to cultivate. Blackworms can be cultivated without any special foods. Brine shrimp and rotifers can be enhanced by supplementing Spirulina.

    Cultivated live foods provide much needed live gut bacteria to your fish and are considered the best for your fish’s long term health. However, it’s not realistic for most hobbyist because of the time and dedication required. Many hobbyist will raise and keep very healthy fish sticking to frozen foods and a mix or other foods.

    Knowing What Type Of Fish You Have

    Understanding the type of fish you have is also very important when choosing the food to feed your fish. Let’s breakdown the 3 types. Flake food is going to be best for surface and midwater fish.

    Surface

    Fish like betta fish and gouramis like to swim and hunt at the surface. They will be the first fish to go after flake fish foods since this is where they hunt for food. Most community fish will fall into the surface or midwater category.

    Midwater

    Midwater fish like Angelfish, most tetras, and barbs tend to hand in the middle of the water. They will go after food once it starts to sink. These aquarium fish do best with pellet foods.

    Bottom Feeders

    Bottom feeders will generally not show an interest in food until it hits midwater or the bottom of the tank. These types of aquarium fish are best suited for wafer types of food and food that falls to the bottom of the tank.

    FAQs

    Which Flakes Brand Is Best?

    The best flake food will have raw quality ingredients and lack fillers. Some flake food will have probiotics or be make of insects or sea creatures like krill. For freshwater fish, I recommend Cobalt’s probiotic flake food. For saltwater fish, I recommend Ocean Nutrition. Both brands do a lot of research for their products and offer high quality food at a reasonable price.

    Is This Type of Food Good For Fish?

    A quality flake food can be used as a staple for their diet. However, it’s not the best food out there. You can opt for pellet, freeze dried, frozen, and even cultivate your own live food. All these other foods are potentially higher quality than most processed flake fish foods out there.

    Is It Better To Feed Flakes Or Pellets?

    For the most part, pellet food will be superior in quality to flake food. However, flake food can be easier to eat for smaller fish. Do your research to determine what works best. There is high quality flake food available as shown in this post.

    How Long Is Flakes Food Good For?

    Flake food has a long shelf life. It has the longest shelf life of all fish food. Depending on the manufacturer, it can be as short as 18 months to as long as 3 years. They will degrade in nutritional value over time. In general, I suggest replacing your fish every 6 months regardless of manufacturer’s claim to maintain the nutritional value of your food.

    Should I crush the flakes?

    You can crush fish flakes for smaller fish. Most aquarists will just crush the fish flakes with their fingers. You can also crush flake food for frying. Keep in mind that crushed flake food can make the food not attractive for larger fish

    Closing Thoughts

    It is important to feed your fish a variety of foods in order to provide them with the best possible diet. While high-quality flake food can be a good staple, it should not be the only thing you give your fish. There are many different types of foods available on the market, so make sure to do your research and buy a variety of brands and types to keep your fish healthy and happy. Leave a comment below and let us know which brand of flake food you like best!

    References

  • Can Fish Drown? The Short Answer, the Long Answer, and What It Means for Your Tank

    Can Fish Drown? The Short Answer, the Long Answer, and What It Means for Your Tank

    Can fish drown? It’s one of those questions I get asked more than you’d expect. and the answer is yes, technically, though not in the way people imagine. I’ve seen hobbyists accidentally create conditions in their tanks where fish were effectively “drowning” through oxygen deprivation. Understanding how fish breathe and what depletes oxygen in a tank can genuinely save fish lives. Here’s the full explanation.

    It sounds like a trick question, but the answer is yes. fish can effectively drown, just not the way we think of it. “Drowning” for a fish means suffocating from lack of dissolved oxygen in the water, not inhaling water into lungs. As someone who’s managed tanks for 25 years, the more practical concern is recognizing when oxygen levels in your aquarium are dangerously low. Fish gasping at the surface is the classic warning sign. There’s also an interesting wrinkle with labyrinth fish like bettas. they breathe atmospheric air and can actually suffocate if they’re prevented from reaching the water’s surface. This article covers both the biology and the real-world implications for your tank.

    The Short Answer

    Yes, fish can drown. However, it’s better to think about a fish drowning as the result of a lack of oxygen instead of seeing their lungs fill with water.

    Fish can be deprived of oxygen due to several reasons, including oxygen levels in the water, poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and even physical deformities.

    In short though, fish can drown in water due to not being able to extract the oxygen they need from their surroundings.

    The Long Answer

    It isn’t every day that you hear about a fish dying due to drowning. This lack of oxygen can be due to several biological, chemical, and pathological problems within the aquarium including poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and deformities.

    First, we need to understand how oxygen enters the aquarium and how fish breathe. Then we can understand how the transfer of oxygen from the water to the bloodstream of the fish can fail.

    Dissolved Oxygen In The Aquarium

    Air Bubbler

    Dissolved oxygen, often abbreviated as DO, is how much oxygen is available in water in comparison to how much oxygen that water can hold; simply put, dissolved oxygen shows how much oxygen is available in the water to be used by plants and animals at any given time.

    While dissolved oxygen levels remain pretty consistent in the aquarium setting, this scientific parameter can be affected by several factors, including water temperature and depth, surface exchange, photosynthesis and respiration, and fish medications.

    Water Temperature And Depth

    Water temperature and depth are the main factors that influence dissolved oxygen levels in bodies of water.

    Due to the physical properties of water, cold water holds more oxygen while hot water holds less oxygen. This means that the warmest surface waters, that aren’t affected by surface exchange, hold less oxygen than the coldest water at the very bottom of the ocean. Other external factors, such as seasonal, altitude, and latitude differences, all play a role in how much oxygen is actually available at any given time.

    In the aquarium, the water temperature can definitely affect dissolved oxygen levels. For instance, if you need to raise water temperatures to treat a parasite, like ich, it is recommended to increase surface agitation and to add an air stone and air pump. This is because the warmed water will hold significantly less oxygen, causing your already-sick fish to have even more difficulty breathing.

    Though it is likely for fish to succumb to the shock of rapidly changing temperatures first, it is possible for fish to drown if oxygen levels are low in warm water.

    Surface Agitation

    Surface agitation is one of the ways that oxygen enters the water column. This is a physical exchange between atmospheric oxygen and water through wind and wave action. Other gases, such as carbon dioxide, are also exchanged at this point to create a cycle.

    In the aquarium, surface agitation is very important. Filters, powerheads, and air stones are common methods of increasing surface agitation to help increase dissolved oxygen levels and to improve overall gas exchange. If surface agitation is poor in the aquarium, then dissolved oxygen levels will also be low.

    This is a very common problem in betta fish (Betta splendens) aquariums. These labyrinth fish are very delicate and need little to no water flow in order to prevent injury. As a result, there is usually minimal surface agitation, leaving the betta to sometimes rely on its labyrinth organ; the labyrinth organ is a specialized lung-like organ that allows the fish to process atmospheric air directly.

    Photosynthesis And Respiration

    Photosynthesis is the process by which an organism converts carbon dioxide into oxygen in order to make food. Respiration is the opposite of this process where oxygen is converted back into carbon dioxide.

    During the day, aquatic plants and vegetation perform photosynthesis while fish perform respiration. At night, both plants and fish respire. Together, this ecosystem works as a constant exchange between carbon dioxide and oxygen.

    In freshwater and saltwater systems, autotrophic plankton called plankton is responsible for producing most of the available oxygen in the world. However, an imbalance between photosynthesis and respiration can lead to problems and fish drowning.

    One of the most damaging events to happen in nature is a harmful algae bloom (HAB). Harmful algae blooms happen when nutrients and resources are abundant, usually due to excess fertilizer and runoff, leading to exponential growth. This growth can be seen in algae and some harmful bacteria, like cyanobacteria, that can produce deadly toxins.

    When algae and bacteria populations are left to grow out of control, there becomes an imbalance of resources. Eventually, sunlight is blocked while nutrients are depleted, depriving the plants below of performing photosynthesis and putting oxygen back into the system. Once these plants die, the decomposition of the organic matter also increases nutrient and respiration rates, fueling growth and further depleting oxygen.

    As this happens, oxygen levels are incredibly low and most fish and invertebrates suffer and die. If the harmful algae bloom is caused by cyanobacteria, they may be affected by deadly toxins as well; these toxins are why some bodies of water are off-limits to people during harmful algae blooms.

    Harmful algae blooms to this extreme are not likely to happen in the aquarium, though strains of harmful cyanobacteria do exist in the hobby. Instead, it is possible to have too many nutrient-hungry plant species that quickly overrun the aquarium and then die off when resources are depleted. This die off can have similar effects where the decomposition quickly removes oxygen from the water.

    Medications

    spectrogram Medication

    Many medications for freshwater and saltwater fish advise increasing aeration during the treatment period. This is due to how the medications interact with the water chemistry. Effects can be enhanced if mixing medications.

    Not all medications will lower the oxygen level in the tank, but it’s definitely worth running an air pump if it is advised.

    How Do Fish Breathe?

    Before we see how fish drown, we need to understand how they breathe first. Here is a great video below by Steve Griffins. I’ll explain more below.

    Most fish breathe through their gills; many fish have made adaptations to combat lower oxygen levels, though we will only look at standard fish anatomy. Gills provide a large and highly-folded surface area with an extensive network of capillaries that can be used for the exchange of gases, like oxygen and carbon dioxide.

    In order to breathe, fish pull water into their mouth which is then pushed across their gills. Oxygen is absorbed and diffused into the bloodstream and transferred throughout the body due to differing concentrations; the concentration of oxygen is lower in the blood than in the surrounding environment.

    Carbon dioxide is then moved across the gills, out of the body of the fish, and back into the water.

    Can Fish Drown?

    Now that we know what affects dissolved oxygen levels and how fish breathe, we can see where the process can go wrong. Possible problems include poor water quality, parasites and diseases, and physical deformities.

    Some of the telltale signs of a drowning fish are:

    • Heavy breathing
    • Red or inflamed gills
    • Laying at the bottom of the aquarium or gasping for air at the surface

    Poor Water Quality

    Poor water quality can be a secret killer of fish, especially if water parameters aren’t being regularly tested. Bad water parameters, namely high levels of ammonia and nitrite, can make breathing very difficult and very painful for fish.

    It should be noted that high levels of nitrate can also prove to be deadly to fish and invertebrates but is not as common of a problem as the other parameters.

    Ammonia Poisoning

    Ammonia poisoning happens when there are especially high levels of ammonia present in the aquarium; any level of ammonia past 0.0 ppm can be damaging to fish and invertebrates, but serious damage starts to happen past 0.5 ppm.

    Ammonia is toxic and will burn the internal and external organs of fish, including gills. This can quickly lead to fish being unable to pull enough oxygen across their gills, leaving them to suffocate and drown.

    High levels of ammonia are usually caused by having too many fish, excess feedings, or stocking an aquarium that is not fully cycled.

    Nitrite Poisoning

    Nitrite poisoning is just as deadly as ammonia poisoning and can be a much more silent killer. Again, nitrite levels should always be 0.0 ppm. Any amount past this can start to cause damage to internal and external organs.

    Nitrite poisoning happens when there are excess levels of nitrite in the aquarium. Due to the chemical structure of hemoglobin, nitrite can bind to blood where oxygen would otherwise. This means that your fish will suffocate from the inside out, making for a very painful death.

    High levels of nitrite are the result of high levels of ammonia; any trace of nitrite is indicative of a nitrogen cycle happening in the fish tank.

    Parasites And Diseases

    Unfortunately, many parasites and diseases that are in the fish tank target the gills of fish. Luckily, most parasites and diseases present themselves before there is irreversible damage, but some ailments might be quicker and more difficult to treat than others.

    One of the worst parasites to encounter are species of flatworm, particularly from the Monogenenea class.

    Gill Flukes

    Gills flukes (Dactylogyrus spp.) are one of the most dangerous parasites that can make fish drown. These flukes are most likely to occur on members of the Cyprinidae family, including goldfish and koi, though they can infect any freshwater fish species.

    Gill flukes are initially free-swimming parasites that quickly need to find a host. At that point, they attach to the gills of the fish and reproduce. The gills will then become inflamed and your fish may try to scratch itself against hard surfaces to try to get them off. This can lead to a secondary infection, making treatment even more difficult.

    A gill fluke infection often presents itself as red and inflamed gills, lack of appetite, scratching, and heavy breathing. Parasitic-specific medications, like Praziquantel, will need to be dosed to eradicate the flukes.

    Ich

    Freshwater Ich

    Ich (Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) is one of the most common parasites to come across in the aquarium. Though these organisms do not target fish’s gills specifically, they can infect the gills which can cause the fish to drown; unfortunately, there are a few different types of ich that will only affect gills and leave the rest of the body alone, making the initial diagnosis difficult.

    Otherwise, ich is easy to diagnose and presents itself as tiny white spots that cover the body of the fish. Other symptoms are similar to those found with gill flukes.

    Deformities

    Lastly, some physical deformities can cause aquarium fish to drown, specifically betta fish.

    Betta fish have been bred to have the most extreme colors and finnage. While beautiful to look at, some of these modifications have turned into deformities that hinder the fish from being able to breathe air.

    Though betta fish have gills that they can use to get enough oxygen from the water, they will still venture to the surface of the fish tank to take in atmospheric air regardless of water parameters. However, some deformities, like excess finnage, can drag your labyrinth fish down, never allowing them to get the atmospheric air they need.

    At the same time, your fish may become exhausted while trying to swim to the top of the tank. This activity will cause your fish to breathe harder, which will cause carbon dioxide levels to rise. Though this only happens in extreme cases, it’s possible for your betta fish to over-exhaust itself and not get enough oxygen from the water as a result.

    Does Your Aquarium Have Enough Oxygen?

    As long as the water is flowing in the aquarium and regular tank maintenance is maintained, there’s usually no reason to worry about adding additional aeration to the system. However, problems may arise when too many fish are kept in too small of a tank or if water movement is inadequate.

    How To Improve Aquarium Oxygenation

    The best ways to improve oxygenation in the aquarium are through equipment, tank maintenance, and photosynthetic additions.

    In general, it’s recommended to choose a filter that is rated for at least double the size of your aquarium. Not only does this allow for more beneficial bacteria growth, but the subsequent surface agitation is a great source of oxygenation.

    Freshwater tanks need at least a 6-10x turnover rate; heavily planted tanks will need better circulation to ensure that water can pass through. Saltwater reef tanks may need at least a 20x turnover rate with specialized tanks reaching much higher.

    In addition to filtration, powerheads and wavemakers can be added to the freshwater or saltwater aquarium. If using external filtration, water will also be oxygenated as it moves from the tank and through the plumbing. Protein skimmers may also be added to the saltwater aquarium for additional filtration and oxygenation.

    While filtration and equipment will help create surface agitation and distribute oxygen throughout the tank, corals and plants may also be added for additional photosynthesis. Fast-growing plants will quickly take up nutrients, releasing oxygen into the water in the process. Symbiotic algae within coral are slightly slower to photosynthesize, but they will contribute to oxygen levels while helping take up excess nutrients as well.

    Regular tank maintenance will also introduce new oxygen and help accelerate gas exchange. Though this is a temporary effect, water changes are very effective for aerating and circulating new water throughout the tank.

    Final Thoughts

    Believe it or not, fish can drown. There are many factors that determine oxygen levels in the aquarium, including water temperature and depth, surface exchange, photosynthesis and respiration, and medications. Water quality, parasites and diseases, and physical deformities can further make it difficult for fish to breathe, leaving them to drown.

    If you’re not sure about how much water flow you should have in your aquarium, add as much as you can without disturbing the substrate or stressing out fish and invertebrates.

  • Angelfish Tank Mates: My 15 Best Picks (And 4 I’d Avoid)

    Angelfish Tank Mates: My 15 Best Picks (And 4 I’d Avoid)

    Angelfish tank mates are one of those topics where I see people make the same mistake over and over: forgetting that angels are cichlids. I’ve kept angelfish in community tanks for decades, and the wrong tank mates can bring out real aggression. especially as the fish mature. These 15 picks are the ones I’d actually trust in an angelfish community, with honest notes on what to watch for.

    Angelfish are cichlids. and a lot of hobbyists forget that when they’re stocking a community tank. They’re generally peaceful, but they will eat smaller fish as they grow, and a breeding pair can become surprisingly territorial. I’ve seen neon tetras disappear overnight once angelfish in the same tank hit 3 inches. The tank mates that work best are mid-to-large tetras, corydoras, peaceful gouramis, and other similarly-sized community fish. This guide covers 15 species that consistently coexist well with angelfish, and 4 that I’d avoid based on experience.

    Choosing Angelfish Tank Mates- What You Need To Know

    Putting together a peaceful community aquarium can be a bit of a juggling act. You need to make sure every fish in the tank will be happy and get along. Angelfish make the perfect centerpiece fish for tropical community tanks, and it’s a good idea to start by building the tank around their needs.

    All you need to do then is make sure that all the other fish are compatible with your angelfish and the conditions it prefers. Before we move on to some great angelfish tank mates, let’s take a few minutes to get to know the star of the show!

    Temperament

    Angelfish are very peaceful as far as cichlids go. If you have a breeding pair, expect them to become a little more aggressive, however, especially with their own species. Angelfish will also defend their nest site against any intruders after breeding.

    Size

    Angelfish grow pretty large, so there isn’t a whole lot of common aquarium fish that can eat your angels. A standard angelfish can reach 6 inches in length and 8 inches from top to bottom, and altum angels grow even bigger!

    Despite their size, angelfish have pretty small mouths compared with other cichlids. They are generally safe around smaller fish, but they will eat any fish small enough to swallow whole. Fish fry and very small nano species should not be kept with angelfish.

    Competition

    Angelfish are not the fastest-moving fish, but they can be pretty competitive around mealtimes. Avoid keeping fish that are too slow to get their fair share of the food. It is best to watch your fish closely to make sure no one is getting out-competed.

    Feeding different areas of the tank simultaneously and using a combination of floating and sinking foods can be very helpful to spread out the competition.

    Parameters & Aquarium Setup

    Before you can choose suitable tank mates, it’s important to understand the needs of your angelfish. Angelfish are tropical freshwater fish that prefer water temperatures between 78 and 84ยฐF. This is on the warmer side so it’s important that their tank mates are comfortable in the same temperatures.

    Angelfish require good water quality, with zero ammonia or nitrite in the water. They prefer water with a slightly acidic to neutral pH, between 6.5 and 7.8. The water flow in the tank should be gentle because angelfish are not very strong swimmers.

    The 15 Best

    After reading about how to select tank mates for your angelfish, you’re probably very interested to learn about some great options! I’ve put together a list of 15 awesome compatible species to help you choose. Check out our video below from our YouTube channel. More detail is provided in the blog post below.

    Even though each species on the list will make a great addition to your angelfish tank, make sure you pay attention to the following important information:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum tank size
    • Care Level
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Swimming Level

    Now let’s get started!

    1. Corydoras Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons for most species
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Mostly bottom dwellers

    Corydoras catfish, or cory cats as they are affectionately known, are awesome little bottom dwellers for tropical fish tanks. There are many different species to choose from in the aquarium hobby.

    Corydoras catfish are social fish so make sure you pick up a group of at least 5 of the same species. They are incredibly peaceful little fish that will not bother your angelfish. The fact that they stay on the bottom means they will add another layer of interest and activity to your aquarium.

    2. Ram Cichlids

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Mikrogeophagus ramirezi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 80-86ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Venezuela, Brazil & Colombia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Ram cichlids are an amazing dwarf cichlid with great colors. Unlike other South American cichlid species, these fish are peaceful and stay very small. Rams come in some amazing color varieties like electric blue and golden.

    Ram cichlids are shy little fish that need pristine water quality. This means they aren’t a great choice for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will find these stunning fish make an awesome tank mate for their angelfish!

    3. Molly Fish

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops & Poecilia latipinna
    • Adult Size: 3-5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Origin: South, Central, & North America
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Molly fish can make great tank mates for your angelfish. These hardy fish are livebearers that will breed readily in your aquarium. The fry usually get snapped up pretty quickly in community tanks but ask for females only if you would prefer them to not breed.

    There are many great types of molly fish in the hobby, including sail fins and balloon varieties. Mollies prefer higher pH than most other tropical fish species, so they should only be kept in tanks with a pH over 7.5.

    4. Kribensis

    Kribensis Cichlid Male and Female
    • Scientific Name: Pelvicachromis pulcher
    • Adult Size: 3-4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75-81ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Nigeria, Cameroon
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The kribensis is a stunning cichlid from over the ocean in West Africa. These small fish are happy in the same water parameters as angelfish, making them an ideal tank mate.

    Kribensis are dwarf cichlids that spend most of their time at the tank bottom. These fish have a peaceful nature but can be aggressive towards other members of their own species, so it is best to keep them in a pair.

    5. Rosy Tetras

    <a href=Rosy Tetra in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-557793″/>
    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon rosaceus
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Brazil, Suriname & Guyana
    • Swimming Level: Mid-water

    Rosy tetras are a little-known but awesome tropical aquarium fish. They are very small fish but they are safe to keep with larger angelfish because of their shape. It is best to keep 6 or more of these peaceful schooling fish in a community aquarium so that they can be more confident and behave naturally.

    6. Zebra Danios

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-78ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Zebra danios are another species that make great tank mates for freshwater angelfish. They will add more activity and excitement to your angelfish tank without bothering their tank mates.

    They are hardy fish that get their common name from their black and white striped bodies. Zebra danio fish are lively little creatures that are very peaceful and easy to care for.

    7. Cardinal Tetra

    Cardinal Tetra Fish
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Adult Size: 0.75-1.25 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73-84ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Brazil & Venezuela
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The cardinal tetra is one of the most colorful tropical aquarium fish in the hobby. Apart from their colors, the great thing about these tetra fish is how peaceful they are! A school of 6 or more would make ideal tank mates for your freshwater angelfish.

    8. Bristle Nose Plecos

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus spp.
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-79 ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Bottom dweller

    Bristlenose plecos are really strange-looking bottom feeders that make one of the best angelfish tank mates. These bottom-dwelling fish hail from the Amazon river basin but have found a second home in aquariums all over the world.

    Bristlenose plecos are very peaceful with other fish, but they should be the only member of their species unless you have a very large tank. There is also a Albino variety available.

    9. Otocinclus Catfish

    Otocinclus Catfish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Algae
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: All levels

    Otocinclus catfish are amazing algae eaters that will help to keep your glass, hardscape, and plants clean. These hardworking tank cleaners look great too, and they can be very interesting to watch as they zoom around the tank looking for new feeding spots.

    Otos need a good supply of algae to stay healthy, so make sure you wait until your tank is mature before introducing them.

    10. Praecox Rainbow Fish

    Rainbow Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Melanotaenia praecox
    • Adult Size: 2-3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: New Guinea
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Rainbowfish are another great schooling fish that can really help to liven up your aquarium. The praecox rainbowfish is just one of many rainbowfish that make great angelfish tank mates.

    Rainbowfish need great water quality but are otherwise easy to care for. They should be kept in groups of 6 or more to bring out the best of their colors and behaviors.

    11. Harlequin Rasbora

    Rasboras
    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.25-1.75 inches
    • Water Temperature: 70-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    These popular freshwater fish are recognizable by their bright orange color and the black triangular marking on their sides. They are very attractive fish that look amazing as they school together in the water column. Harlequin rasboras are very peaceful fish that add will vibrant color and activity to your angelfish community aquarium.

    12. Cherry Barbs

    Male Cherry Barb
    Male
    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-80ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    Not all barb species make good tank mates for angelfish, but the peaceful cherry barb makes an excellent choice! These popular shoaling fish have a peaceful nature, making them a great community fish. Cherry barbs are a social species, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6.

    13. Rummy Nose Tetras

    Rummy Nose Tetra
    • Scientific Name: Hemigrammus rhodostomus
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 76-80ยฐF
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Amazon river basin, Brazil & Venezuela
    • Swimming Level: Midwater, top

    Rummy nose tetras are schooling fish that make great tank mates for angelfish. They are active community fish that should be kept in groups of ten or more to see them at their best. The rummy nose tetra needs excellent water quality to really thrive so good filtration and regular maintenance are very important.

    14. Nerite Snails

    • Scientific Name: Neritina spp., Vittina spp., Clithon spp.
    • Adult Size: 1-1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Algae
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Origin: Africa & Asia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    If you’re looking for some excellent tank cleaners for your angelfish community setup, nerite snails could be a perfect choice. These harmless aquarium snails have beautiful shells and do an amazing job of eating pesky algae in the tank. One of the best things about these snails is that they can’t breed in freshwater, so you never have to worry about them becoming a pest!

    15. Black Skirt Tetra

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Adult Size: 2-2.4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68-78ยฐF
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Origin: Argentina, Bolivia, & Brazil
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    The black skirt tetra is another peaceful species of schooling fish that works great with freshwater angelfish. These fish are also known as the black widow tetra but don’t worry, there’s nothing dangerous about them.

    Black skirt tetras are active swimmers that should be kept in groups of 6 or more. They aren’t the most colorful tetras, but this can help draw attention to your centerpiece fish, the angels.

    Bonus Tank Mates For Angelfish

    The 15 peaceful fish in this list make awesome tank mates for freshwater angelfish, but there are many other options to choose from. Here are a few more popular species to consider:

    4 Fish To Avoid

    Now that you know 15 great tank mates for angelfish, let’s take a look at some common species that you should avoid:

    1. Goldfish

    The obvious problem with goldfish is that they are coldwater fish that prefer water that is 72ยฐF or cooler. This is too cold for your angelfish, so the two species are not compatible. For the same reason, other coldwater fish like white cloud mountain minnows and dojo loaches do not make good angelfish tank mates.

    2. Betta Fish

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    Bettas are slow-moving fish with long flowing fins. Keeping them with angelfish is risky because they can be easy targets for aggressive individuals. Some fish keepers might have had success, but I would not recommend trying this combo.

    3. Semi-aggressive Barbs

    Some aggressive species of barbs are notorious fin nippers and will not make good tankmates for angelfish. Tiger barbs, including green tiger barbs and Glofish barbs, should not be added to your angelfish community.

    Other potential fin-nipping species like zebra loaches and head and tail light tetras should also be avoided.

    4. Freshwater Shrimp

    Angelfish will not think twice about snacking on freshwater shrimp. Some shrimp might survive in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding space, but you’ll probably see their population decreasing pretty steadily!

    Angelfish Community Aquarium Setup

    Setting up an awesome angelfish community tank could be as simple as introducing other fish to your existing aquarium. If you don’t already have an angelfish community tank, here’s what you need to know:

    Introducing Aquarium Companions

    It’s really important to have a backup plan in case your angelfish don’t get along with their new tank mates. At the end of the day, each fish has its own personality, and what works for a hundred other fish keepers might not work in your tank.

    I recommend setting up a small, inexpensive aquarium separate from your angelfish community tank. This tank only needs to be a few gallons, with a small filter and a heater. If war breaks out after you introduce tank mates, they can always be moved into this tank temporarily until you return them to the store or make another plan.

    A tank like this has other great benefits too. New fish can be quarantined in this tank before going in with your angelfish to prevent spreading any diseases to your other fish. It will really come in handy down the line if any of your fish get sick and need a hospital tank.

    If you have some issues with angelfish aggression, check out this video below by Hardyaquariums. His 5 tips are summarized below:

    • Balance the number of males and females
    • Buy dither fish for your angelfish to chase around (like Danios)
    • Get a bigger aquarium that is tall
    • Make hiding spaces for your angelfish for them to claim territory
    • Feed your angelfish well – Well fed fish will not fight as much

    Aquarium Size

    Angelfish can be kept in tanks as small as 29 gallons. Some fish keepers even go as low as 20 gallons, but I would recommend going larger if you can. 55 gallons or larger will allow you the room to create a thriving and busy angelfish community with loads of amazing tropical tank mates.

    One important thing to remember when picking out a tank is the angelfish body shape. These fish have really deep bodies that are taller than they are long. Tall tanks are therefore a better choice than long ones.

    Heating

    Angelfish prefer warm water between 78 and 84ยฐF. You’re going to need an aquarium heater to maintain this temperature in your tank. Make sure the heater you buy is rated for the size of your aquarium.

    I recommend using a thermometer if your heater does not have a display, this makes monitoring the water temperature in your tank much easier. Heater control is even better if it’s within your budget.

    Filtration

    Maintaining a healthy and beautiful angelfish community aquarium is almost impossible without good-quality filtration. There are so many different types of aquarium filters on the market, however, so which type should you choose?

    Aquarium filters come in different sizes, but the amount of water the manufacturers claim they can filter is just a guideline really. I recommend opting for a slightly larger filter if it doesn’t take up too much room. Canister filters are ideal for this purpose because they can be kept out of sight in the cabinet under your tank.

    Hang on back and internal filters work great too, just make sure the filter isn’t producing too much current. Remember, angelfish aren’t very strong swimmers! A filter with an adjustable output is very useful for dialing in the perfect flow.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance is very important for maintaining happy and healthy fish in your angelfish community tank. Here’s what you need to do:

    • Use a test kit regularly to monitor your water parameters. Your nitrate levels should not go over about 30 parts per million, and ammonia and nitrite should always read zero.
    • Remove any physical waste and uneaten fish food from the bottom of your tank with a gravel vacuum.
    • Perform a partial water change 2-4 times per month to keep your nitrate levels safe.
    • Follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter model, and rinse out the media when necessary.

    Feeding

    Angelfish are not that picky about their diet. These fish can be fed a staple diet of dried food like pellets (like Fluval Bug Bites) and freeze dried foods. Supplement this diet with frozen or live foods like brine shrimp and blanched veggies like zucchini for a complete and balanced diet.

    My Pick
    Fluval Bug Bites – Tropical Formula

    Fluval bug bites tropical fish is an excellent staple food for most tropical fish. Made of black solider fly larvae

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    Not all of the tank mates in this list will thrive on this diet so it’s important to cater to each species in the tank. Bottom dwellers like cory catfish, for example, should be given sinking pellets or tablets. Algae eaters like otocinclus catfish will need a steady diet of algae, but you can suppliment this algae wafers.

    Avoid overfeeding your fish because uneaten food can spoil and cause dangerous ammonia spikes. Feeding your fish small amounts of food more than once a day is a good way to avoid this. Another good tip is to provide only enough food for the fish to finish in a minute or two.

    Live Plants

    Angelfish thrive in a heavily planted tank. Fortunately, so do all the other fish species on this list! Many fishkeepers think you need very deep pockets and a degree in botany to grow live aquarium plants, but it’s actually really easy to get started.

    If you’ve never grown live plants before here are a few things to know:

    • Plants need light to grow. Different species need different amounts of light, but there are many aquarium plants you can grow under regular aquarium lighting.
    • Plants need nutrients. Different types of plants get their nutrients in different ways. Some types of plants can be grown without soil or substrate and get their nutrients from liquid fertilizers. Other types of plants need nutrients at their roots.
    • Plants need carbon dioxide. All plants need CO2 to grow, but some species need more than others. If you want to get serious about growing plants, you’ll probably want to invest in a CO2 injection system. If you’re just starting out, choose low light, low CO2 plants.

    You’ll find loads of great articles on caring for different plants on this website, go ahead and check them out. Growing live plants is fun, and your angels and their tank mates will thank you for it!

    Substrate & Decorations

    The substrate is the sand or gravel at the bottom of the aquarium. There are so many different types available that it can be hard to pick one! The color is up to you, but most aquarium fish seem to prefer darker colors.

    Sand or gravel can work great, just make sure they are aquarium safe and that you wash them out thoroughly before setting up the tank. There are some great aquarium soils available for planted tanks. Avoid these unless you plan on growing a lot of plants.

    Decorations can turn an average-looking fish tank into an amazing one. As with the substrate, you can use your creativity and decide whether to go for a natural look or create a unique scene. Again, its really important that anything you put into the tank is clean and aquarium-safe. Natural decor like driftwood or aquarium rocks are great if you want to try build to an aquascape style

    Where To Buy

    Most of the angelfish tank mates in this list are common species that are easy to find in most aquarium stores and pet shops. If you don’t have a decent local fish store where you live, you can always go ahead and order your fish online. Buying online will also give you access to rarer breeds.

    FAQS

    What Fish Can Be Kept With This Type of Fish?

    Popular aquarium fish like cory catfish, otos, rainbow fish, and many types of tetras can be kept with angelfish. There are plenty of other fish species that make great angelfish tankmates too. The ideal tank mates are peaceful fish that enjoy the same water parameters.

    What Fish Do They Not Get Along With?

    Angelfish should not be kept with aggressive fish or fin nippers. Avoid larger cichlids like oscars and small aggressive fish like tiger barbs.

    Are They Good Community Fish?

    Angelfish make great peaceful community fish if they are kept with the right tank mates. They can be a little aggressive when breeding but are generally safe to keep with other peaceful fish that enjoy the same conditions.

    How Many Can Be Kept Together?

    Angelfish can be kept in pairs or small groups of 4-6 individuals. The number of angelfish you can keep together will also depend on the size of your tank. These fish can get territorial when breeding, so it’s important that the non-breeding angelfish have enough space to avoid conflict.

    Final Thoughts

    Angelfish are easily one of the most beautiful species for freshwater aquariums and they make great community fish too. With the right tank mates and knowledge, any fishkeeper can create a thriving tropical community in their own home.

    So what are you waiting for? Go ahead and start planning your own angelfish community today!

    Do you have an angelfish community tank? Tell us about your favorite angelfish tank mates in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 7 Best Aquarium Backgrounds: My Picks After 25 Years of Tank Setups

    7 Best Aquarium Backgrounds: My Picks After 25 Years of Tank Setups

    Aquarium backgrounds are one of those finishing touches that make a bigger visual difference than most hobbyists expect. I’ve tried everything from printed backgrounds to 3D foam backgrounds in my own tanks, and the right choice depends heavily on the tank style and fish you’re keeping. This guide covers the 7 options I’d actually recommend, with honest notes on installation, durability, and what looks best in practice.

    An aquarium background is one of those things that seems minor until you take one off a tank. and then you realize how much it was doing. A good background hides the equipment behind the tank, eliminates reflections that can stress fish, and gives depth to the aquascape. I prefer solid black or dark blue for planted tanks because it makes the colors of fish and plants pop. The 3D foam backgrounds are impressive but add significant depth to the tank and can reduce swimming space. After setting up tanks for 25+ years, here are the 7 backgrounds I’d actually recommend.

    Our Criteria (How These Backgrounds Made The Cut)

    Iโ€™ve been involved in aquariums since I was 11. Through my over 25 years of experience setting up various aquariums, there are certain things I look of if I’m going to install a fish tank background. Here is what I’m going to focus on when selecting the best to buy:

    • Backlight Features. Backlighting is something that comes from Nature Scape aquascaping. When you have a backlight aquarium background, you can replicate a sky environment in freshwater tanks. You can also change colors with some.
    • Static Clings – A backlight aquarium background is usually going to be a plate that you mount. For more traditional backgrounds we want a cling type product. These adhere to the back of your aquarium and won’t peel away like the cheap tape on backgrounds you find in chain pet stores.
    • Brand – We want a solid brand that that makes backgrounds for serious hobbyists. A pet store brand fish tank background is usually going to be cheap, be taped on, or fall apart easily. An aquarium background needs to lasts through the life of the tank.

    The Fish Tank Background Candidates

    That that we have seen what my criteria is, lets see who made the cut. I’ll go in further detail below.

    In a hurry? I recommend Serene Background Kits. Use discount code ASD15 at checkout!

    PictureNameFeaturesLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Serene Backlight Light Kit
    Serene Backlight Light Kit
    • Backlight
    • Static Cling
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    SPORN Black Aquarium Blackground
    SPORN Black Aquarium Blackground
    • Static Cling
    • Dark Background
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    FJARDE Lit Background FJARDE Lit Background
    • Backlight
    • Multiple Colors
    Buy On Amazon
    DUOFIRE Frosted White Background DUOFIRE Frosted White Background
    • Static Cling
    • Great For Planted Tanks
    Buy On Amazon
    SPORN Coral Background SPORN Coral Background
    • Static Cling
    • Photo background
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    SPORN Tropical Background SPORN Tropical Background
    • Static Cling
    • Photo Background
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Seaview Sea of Green Background Seaview Sea of Green Background
    • Photo Background
    • Tape attached
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon

    7 Best (2023 Reviews)

    Let’s look at each product below and see why they made the cut.

    1. Serene Backlit Light Kit

    In the aquascaping world, there is a gold standard when it comes to aquarium backgrounds. These are backlit backgrounds that come in a frosted white color. Current USA’s Serene kit meets this standard, is far cheaper than the gold standard ADA kit, and offers more features.

    What I love about this kit (aside from the price) is its ability to change colors. You can change it according to the mood you want to set in your fish tank and in your living space. Because the light is backlit, it does not affect your ability to provide lighting to the aquarium plants in your fish tank. You can see the multiple vibrant colors it can display below.

    I love how flexible this kit is. You can use this for virtually any type of setup and it’s super easy to install. You can either install it with a static cling or the mounting clips that Current USA provides. This light offers the ultimate balance of looking good for your home and guests while looking great as a fish tank. While it is more expensive than typical backgrounds, it’s features are second to none. Give it a try. You won’t be disappointed. It’s one of the best aquarium backgrounds you can buy today!

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Frost default background
    • Multiple color options
    • Easy to install
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Colors aren’t for everyone

    2. SPORN Black

    Best Value
    SPORN Black Aquarium Background

    SPORN backgrounds are static cling aquarium backgrounds that are easy to install and look great. Best for saltwater aquariums

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Static cling aquarium backgrounds as some of the most reliable backgrounds you can purchase in the hobby. I continue to be surprised to this day that pet stores continue to sell cheap tape on the back backgrounds for new hobbyists.

    SPORN offers not only high quality backgrounds, but they also cheap and easy to install. This one showed above is a classic black, which works amazing for saltwater tanks, African cichlid tanks, brackish water tanks, and some betta tank setups.

    This is a great buy. You really can’t go wrong with this brand.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Static cling
    • Easy to install
    • Easy to cut to shape
    Cons
    • Black doesn’t work for all setups

    3. FJARDE Background Light

    FJARDE Backgrounds

    An attempt at an ADA backlight aquarium back clone. It is cheaper than ADA and offers a few extra features.

    Buy On Amazon

    ADA’s backlight screen is considered the best in the business when it comes to backlit backgrounds. You figure it would be time for someone to make a clone of the product. Here we have FJARDE cloning the ADA screen, but with some additional features.

    This screen is designed to fit on rimless aquariums. It offers both gradient and solid vibrant colors. This screen is very easy to install, using a mounting clip that is designed for rimless aquariums.

    This is a great alternative if you are shopping for a premium backlit screen. It offers a lot of what ADA offers without the massive price tag. That being said, it’s still the most expensive aquarium background on this list. If you have the budget for it, I would give this fish tank background a look and compare it against the Serene. I personally think the Serene is a better to buy, which is why this one comes at #4 on the list.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Static cling
    • Easy to install
    • Easy to cut to shape
    Cons
    • Black doesn’t work for all setups

    4. DUOfire Frost White

    DUOFIRE White Frosted Background

    This background is designed for homes, but also works great for aquariums. Frosted backgrounds are ideal for planted aquariums and freshwater tanks

    Buy On Amazon

    Not everyone wants a backlit aquarium background. For a freshwater fish tank, a frosted white background offers a great aquarium background, especially with planted aquariums.

    This aquarium background from DUOFIRE is a product to use on an aquarium. These clings are designed for residential use, but still work for aquariums and are built to last a very long time.

    They are more expensive than the SPORE brand, but it is difficult to find this style in an aquarium brand. The premium you spend purchasing these is worth it. They are built for more stressful environments like bathrooms.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Frosted white background
    • Easy to install
    • Static Cling
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Not ideal for saltwater tanks

    5. SPORN Coral

    SPORN Coral Background

    This static cling background offers a coral backdrop for saltwater fish tanks

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    I understand some fish tank keepers want to have a real picture for their aquarium background. The problem you run into with the traditional tape on back aquarium backgrounds is that they don’t show well and they break over time.

    Enter SPORN’s coral aquarium background product. This has a great HD quality picture aquarium background, but it’s a static cling. This means that it adheres to the back of your fish tank, and it will last a very long time. This product is great for saltwater aquariums.

    This is a great product if you want an aquarium environment picture. If you have a freshwater tank, check out the other option below.

    Pros And Cons

    Pros
    • High quality picture background
    • Easy to install
    • Static Cling
    Cons
    • Needs a backlight to show well

    6. SPORN Tropical

    SPORN Tropical Background

    Spoon offers a static cling planted tank background. Great for freshwater aquariums

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    For those with freshwater tanks, SPORN offers a great background that gives the look of a planted tank. These backgrounds are easy to install, and will last longer than the traditional taped backgrounds you will find in most pet stores.

    One thing to caution about this aquarium background is if your fish tank is on the small size, the image will look too big. This fish tank background is best for aquariums 2 feet wide and up.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality picture background
    • Easy to install
    • Static Cling
    Cons
    • Needs a backlight to show well

    7. Seaview Sea of Green

    This aquarium background from Seaview is what you usually see at most pet stores. These are your taped-on backgrounds. While this is of higher quality than what you will find locally. I would still caution against purchasing these types of aquarium backgrounds.

    The main issue with taped backgrounds is they do not hold well. The tape will not stick over time, leading the fish tank background to fall down. You also will not have a clean look in the aquarium background as the image is often times washed out. One way to correct the washout effect would be to purchase a mounting and illumination kit.

    Seaview Mounting and Illumination kit

    A mounting kit mean to adhere a traditional aquarium background and enhance the look

    Buy On Amazon

    Purchasing this kit will properly mount your aquarium background and bring it in line with your lighting. It turns your tape on into a glue on fish tank background that mounts like a cling product. While it is a good upgrade, the combo of this upgrade and the fish tank background itself make it more expensive than the SPORE line.

    Therefore, I wouldn’t recommend this product if similar SPORE offerings are available when you are shopping. I feel that SPORE is a much better buy. These tape on backgrounds are only suitable if mounted with a kit.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Cheap
    • Easy to find locally and online
    Cons
    • Has to be taped
    • Needs upgrades to show better
    • Expense when you add the upgrades

    How To Install

    Installing an aquarium background is easier than you think. Below is a video by SPORN that you exactly how to install your background on your fish tank. I’ll leave some additional tips below.

    Avoid Installing On An Empty Tank

    Avoid installing these on a running aquarium. If you have to install these on a running aquarium, consider a mounted backlit background or a taped-on aquarium background. Also, always measure your aquarium with a tap measure to ensure you get the correct size prior to ordering or purchasing locally.

    Clean The Back Of The Tank Before Mounting

    Clings need a clean surface in order to fully adhere to the back of the aquarium. You can use household cleaner for the back, but make sure you do not use an ammonia-based product like Windex. The method brand at Target is good to use if you want an aquarium-safe option.

    Use a Squeegee Or Credit Card

    When installing, you need to edge out the fish tank background to eliminate the bubbles and to get a proper cling to the aquarium. A credit can work if you have nothing else, however, a squeegee is preferred as it is longer and easier to use.

    Use A Straight Edge Razor For Final Cuts

    You will need to make initial cuts to fit the background. Once it mounts, you can use a straight-edge razor or x-acto knife to cut the edges of the background for a flush fit. You can use scissors instead, but they aren’t as precise as a blade.

    Why Are Static Clings So Good For Tanks?

    Cling backgrounds are the best practice solution for aquariums in our industry. Here are several reasons why:

    • They can be removed – Don’t like your fish tank background, just remove it and install another
    • They are easy to install
    • They last longer and are more durable than taped-on backgrounds
    • Because they adhere to the surface of the aquarium, they illuminate better

    To learn more about how static cling backgrounds work, you can check out this video below by 858 graphics. They explain how cling stickers work. Aquarium backgrounds are designed off white material, giving them a solid look. You shouldn’t purchase clear material clings for aquariums, as they will not show well in a display tank.

    FAQS

    Are Backgrounds Good For Tanks?

    Aquarium backgrounds are great for fish tanks. They look great when installed correctly, hide wires and compliment the scaping you have in the tank. All aquariums should install an aquarium background unless the tank is designed to be viewed from multiple angles (e.g. – a Peninsula style tank)

    Are They Tacky?

    Some of the cheap backgounds you fish at pet and local fish stores can look tacky. These typically backgrounds that are not black, blue, or white and tape to a fish tank. These backgrounds can crack, fade, or break over them. These are the ones you want to avoid when purchasing an aquarium background.

    Is A White Color Good For A Tank?

    A pure white background is not the best looking background for an aquarium, however a frosted white background can look amazing. Frosted backgrounds are typically used in planted tanks. Certain styles like Nature Style Aquariums and iwagumi look amazing with these backgrounds.

    Can I Put A Mirror Behind A Fish Tank?

    You certainty can put a mirror behind a fish tank. This is usually used to keep a fish entertained as they will see their reflection and try to interact with it. It can also be used to curb the hostility of an aggressive fish. However, it’s not a great idea to have a mirror near an aquarium at all time

    Can I Paint The Back Of My Tank?

    Yes, you can paint the background of your aquarium. There are a few precautions to take when doing so, however. You should never paint the inside of the aquarium, only the back. You also will need to use paint that is safe for aquariums. Spray paint is typically used. Krylon Fusionย is a trusted brand that has been used by aquarists for years.

    Closing Thoughts

    Backgrounds are an important part of any aquarium, and the type of background you choose can make a big difference in the overall look and feel of your tank. Cling backgrounds are our top pick for most hobbyists because they’re affordable, easy to install, and don’t require any special equipment. If you’re looking for something more flashy, backlit backgrounds can give your tank an extra pop. Just be sure to factor in the added cost if you decide to go this route. Taped backgrounds may be tempting because they’re so cheap, but we recommend avoiding them due to their low-quality materials and lack of durability.

    Leave a comment below and let us know what kind of aquarium background you ended up choosing for your aquarium!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • 5 Best Fish Tank Coffee Tables: Honest Picks for a Unique Living Room Statement

    5 Best Fish Tank Coffee Tables: Honest Picks for a Unique Living Room Statement

    Fish tank coffee tables are one of those products I get asked about constantly. and my honest take is that they’re more lifestyle piece than serious fish-keeping setup. The tanks are typically small, filtration is limited, and the flat horizontal viewing angle is less than ideal compared to a standard front-viewing tank. That said, they can look stunning in the right living room and make a conversation piece like nothing else. If you go this route, keep expectations realistic: these work best for a simple betta or a small community of nano fish, not a complex planted setup. Here are the 5 best options I’d actually recommend if you’re set on one.

    Our Criteria (How These Coffee Tables Made The Cut)

    A fish tank coffee table is a setup that I normally do not do, but I’ve been asked enough at this point that I should make a post about it. These tanks are tricky to setup, and there are standards we need to look at. Let’s look at my criteria.

    • Features . A coffee table is supposed to be a decoration in a house. Therefore, we need to get utility from the tank itself and also looks from the table. We need have built in features like filters and the aquarium itself needs to not have wires everywhere.
    • Build . An acrylic base is a must for a coffee table aquarium. They are low to the ground and will get kicked around by guest, pets, and children. They need to be able to withstand the punishment. This makes Acrylic, not glass the best material to use for these tanks.
    • Dimensions . A coffee table aquarium needs to be the right height and footprint. You want a tank like this designed as a piece of furniture first, then purchasing the correct fish that can accommodate the tank

    The Aquarium Coffee Table Candidates

    In A Hurry? I recommend Midwest Tropical Coffee Tables!

    With the criteria defined, let’s look at what coffee table aquariums made the cut. I’ll go in further details in the next section of this post.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Midwest Tropicals - Long Octogon Tank
    Midwest Tropicals – Long Octogon Tank
    • 28 Gallons
    • 45 x 26 x 15.5 inches
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Petco
    Midwest Tropicals Octogen Table Midwest Tropicals Octogen Table
    • 40 Gallons
    • 30 x 30 x 16 inches
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Ebay
    Midwest Topicals Square Table Midwest Topicals Square Table
    • 28 Gallons
    • 25 x 27.5 x 28 inches
    Buy On Amazon
    Midwest Tropical End Table Midwest Tropical End Table
    • 15 gallons
    • 21 x 21 x 21 inches
    Buy On Amazon
    Aquatic Furnish Coffee Table Aquatic Furnish Coffee Table
    • 29 Gallons
    • 24 x 36 x 24 inches
    Buy On Etsy

    5 Best (2023 Reviews)

    1. Midwest Tropical Long Octogen

    Editor’s Choice
    Midwest Tropical Long Octogen Table

    This long format coffee table offers more surface space for larger living rooms. Length supports larger fish that want space

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    When it comes to manufactured fish tank coffee tables, Midwest Tropical is a great brand to look into. They have been in the business of making custom water features for over 30 years. They are primarily known for making waterfalls for unique aquarium features. This coffee table aquarium is their flagship product.

    At 28 gallons and 48 inches in length, this aquarium offers a lot of swimming space for inhabitants while also being a sizable coffee table aquarium for a living room. This format will fit larger living rooms. The body of the tank is made of cell cast acrylic, which is less prone to cracking from accidental kicks, bumps and dish drops that all coffee tables need to withstand over the years.

    You got an aquarium filter, plant decor, and blue gravel to get you started. The price of these fish tank coffee tables are expensive, but it will be a conversation piece in the living room.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • 4 feet long
    • Comes with filtration unit
    • Acrylic body
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Won’t fit all spaces

    2. Midwest Tropical Octogen

    Midwest Tropicals Octogen Table

    This 40 gallon aquarium offers a great balance of coffee table and functional aquarium.

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Ebay

    For folks who desire an overall footprint, this Octogen table is a great choice. This coffee table aquarium carries 40 gallons of aquarium water with the same filtration and package features as it’s 4 foot long brother.

    This is a great balance of furniture and aquarium. If you are looking for a furniture aquarium piece that maximizes size for your aquatic life, this the tank to purchase.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Octogen shape
    • Comes with filtration unit
    • Acrylic body
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Top is heavy and a pain to remove for cleaning

    3. Midwest Tropical Aqua

    Midwest Tropical Aqua Coffee Table

    This square table offers a clean footprint for more modern spaces

    Buy On Amazon

    This fish tank coffee table offers a basic square shape that fits many modern setups. At 28 gallons, it’s large enough to have stability and house a number of fish. The only issue I see with this table are the glass edges. There is actually a viral video by Paul Cuffaro installing this aquarium in his living room that you can check out below.

    If you have small children or pets, be cautious of those edges as they can cause injury. It may make sense to purchase some bumper guards to baby proof the table.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Convenient shape and footprint
    • Comes with filtration unit
    • Acrylic body
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Corners can be dangerous for children and pets

    4. Midwest Tropical

    Midwest Tropical End Table

    This end table is great to use in living rooms or bedrooms. Small footprint to fit in smaller spaces

    Buy On Amazon

    If you are short on space or prefer to place a fish tank as an accent versus a centerpiece, this end table is a great choice.

    This fish tank coffee table is also made by Midwest Tropics and has the some cell cast acrylic body with a square glass top, It has a small footprint, so it won’t take over your living room. At only 15 gallons, your fish stocking will be limited, but it will provide a great look in your living room.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Small footprint
    • Comes with filtration unit
    • Acrylic body
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Only 15 gallons

    5. Aquatic Furnish

    Are looking for more of a function fish tank? If so, check out Aquatic Furnish’s coffee tables. These aquariums can be custom made to your liking. Their default size is 29 gallons, which is one of the larger tables on our list.

    While the design isn’t as furniture like as the other options in our round up, this aquarium is more of a hobbyist setup. You will get more of a traditional fish that with the makings of the braces and top to work as a coffee table. If you are looking for more fish tank or more of an industrial look, this is a good option over the others on the list.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • More functional as an aquarium
    • Can be customized
    • Cheaper than other options
    Cons
    • Body is made of glass
    • Looks more like an aquarium than furniture

    Why You Should Consider

    A coffee table is one of the most used tables in home, and having fish in them is a major statement piece and conversation starter. Here a few good reasons to consider them.

    Your Tank Will Be Located In The Most Active Hub In The Home

    Outside of the kitchen, the living room is going to be the place that has the most activity in the home. Placing an aquarium where a coffee table would be puts your fish tank in the center hub of the home. You will always be around it to enjoy it versus placing it in a basement or a hallway.

    You Will Receive the Maximum Health Benefits Of An Aquarium

    There are studies that show that having an aquarium is great at reducing stress and will decrease disruptive behavior in Alzheimer’s patients. It’s no wonder aquariums are installed at dental and medical offices around the world.

    Because this tank will also be around your living room hub you will always be there to relax and enjoy. You will get the most health benefits from it having it as a coffee table aquarium.

    Disadvantages

    Less talk about a few cons of purchasing these aquariums over a traditional one.

    Equipment is Limited

    Traditional tanks can load up on canister filters or even sumps since you have cabinets and don’t have to worry about fitting equipment in a small spot. This limits the type and amount of fish you can keep.

    The Midwest tanks come with a whisper internal filter. If you would like to upgrade the filter, I would look into an OASE Bioplus Thermo. This filter has the added benefit of holding an aquarium heater, which will give you the option of keeping tropical fish.

    Editor’s Choice
    OASE Bioplus Thermo

    The Best Internal Filter

    The OASE Bioplus is an internal version of the Biomaster Therm. It’s the only internal filter I trust in aquascapes

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    They Are Not Ideal For Saltwater Tanks

    Saltwater Tanks are a bad idea for a fish tank coffee table. They will generate salt creep, smell like the ocean, and will require more equipment. You might be able to get away with a simple fish only or a soft coral type reef tank. Generally though, it’s a bad idea to use these types of tanks for saltwater aquariums.

    Fish Selection

    A major thing to know about fish tank coffee tables is they are going to be limited aquariums. Here are a few things you will need to understand when purchasing them why it will restrict the fish you can select.

    They Are Best Without Heaters

    Because wire management and hiding plugs and equipment are more important with these style tanks, it is best to run them without a heater. This is also a good idea because the placement of the aquarium. It will be placed near the floor where hot foods might be places. A setup where fish are okay without heaters is best.

    This will limit your select to coldwater fish that can tolerate a wide range of temperatures and are not sensitive to temperature swings.

    They Do Not Have Great Filters

    A fish tank coffee table will have a simple 2 stage or air pump powered filter. These filters are not big on biological capacity and would arguably be undersized for some setups such as planted aquariums. As such, you will need to limit your selection to fish that are not heavy on your bioload. Large fish will add more bioload than smaller fish on a inch by inch basis. For these setups, it’s best to stick to nano fish that can tolerate cooler temperatures.

    Good Fish To Consider

    Below are a few fish that will do well in these types of aquariums.

    Fish to avoid

    The following fish below are either too big, too aggressive, or prefer warmer temperatures. They are generally not going to be the best fit for a coffee table fish tank.

    FAQs

    Can you put a fish tank on a coffee-table?

    You can put a fish tank on a coffee table if it can support the weight. Generally, nano tanks are ideal to put on a coffee table as they do not weigh much and do not require much equipment. Make sure your coffee table can withstand spills and corrosion.

    How do I turn my fish tank into a coffee-table?

    The easiest way to do so is to purchase a fish thank that is designed as a coffee table. There are a few manufacturers who do this like Midwest Tropicals that have models available. The other option is to DIY by building a frame around the aquarium and placing a top over the aquarium where you could place items on. Usually the top is made of glass so you can see through through the table and see the fish swimming.

    How much weight can you put on tempered glass?

    It depends on the glass dimensions and the width of the glass. There is a great calculator here where you can input the dimensions and width to get a good gauge on how much of a load your glass top can take.

    What is the difference between tempered glass and regular glass?

    The primary difference between tempered glass and regular glass is that tempered glass is significantly more durable and less likely to break. This is because tempered glass is treated with heat and chemicals to make it about four times stronger than regular glass. This means that if the tempered glass does break, it will usually do so into small, safe pieces rather than large, dangerous shards. Tempered glass is also more resistant to thermal shock, meaning that it can withstand sudden temperature changes without breaking.

    Closing Thoughts

    A fish tank coffee table is a great way to add some life and style to your living room. Just be sure that you understand the restrictions these tanks come with before making your purchase. Leave a comment below and let’s have a conversation about fish tanks as coffee tables!


    ๐Ÿ”ง Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

    References

  • Can You Use Distilled Water in a Fish Tank? (The Real Answer)

    Can You Use Distilled Water in a Fish Tank? (The Real Answer)

    Distilled water in aquariums is something I get asked about regularly, especially from hobbyists trying to hit very specific water parameters for soft-water fish or discus. I’ve used it myself as part of RO/DI blends for my reef tank. The short answer is that distilled water alone is actually too pure. it’s stripped of everything, including minerals fish need. Here’s the real explanation and how to use it correctly.

    The short answer is: you can use distilled water in a fish tank, but not straight from the jug. Distilled water has had all minerals removed. which sounds clean, but for fish it’s actually dangerous. There’s no buffering capacity, so pH becomes unstable and can crash rapidly. Fish need some dissolved minerals to regulate their bodies. Where distilled water is genuinely useful is in reef keeping, where I use RO/DI water (similar to distilled) to top off evaporation and then add minerals back precisely through two-part dosing. For freshwater, mixing distilled with tap can also help soften water for species like discus or German blue rams that need low hardness. This article explains when and how to use it correctly.

    What Is It?

    As we know, water has three states; liquids, solid, and gas. The distillation process involves boiling the water to an extend it starts evaporating. The water is then allowed to cool down at low temperature and condensed back into its original liquid form.

    This water distillation process eliminates germs, bacteria, other impurities, and minerals from water, leaving behind pure distilled water1.

    It was once a misconception that distilled water heated faster than normal tap water. Therefore, it was dangerous to consume back then. However, this theory was ruled out and it was confirmed that distilled water is like regular tap water. If you want a breakdown on how the distillation process works, check out the video below by Pure Water Distllers.

    Today, distilled water is used in numerous applications: batteries, steam irons, cooling systems for vehicles, and sometimes in aquariums.

    Is It Safe To Use?

    As mentioned above, using distilled water in aquariums is becoming popular day by day because distilled water doesn’t contain chemicals mostly found in tap water such as Chlorine and Chloramine. So, novice aquarists believe distilled water is the safest option for aquariums.

    However, it is not recommended to use an exclusive supply of distilled water in your fish tanks. Your aquatic life demands certain minerals for their survival. And there’s no source of those essential minerals in distilled water for your fish.

    Distilled water also poses a negative impact on the water pH levels; as minerals in water helps maintain the pH levels in your aquarium, which is essential for the survival of your fish. distilled water lacks minerals like Calcium that won’t help buffer ph and water hardness.

    But there are instances where pure distilled water can be used in the tank water.

    1. If your aquarium is losing water, pure distilled water can be used to top off.
    2. Distilled water can be added to reduce the water hardness of normal tap water.

    Whatever the case may be, distilled water has zero essential minerals in it to sustain the aquatic life as minerals are essential for aquatic plants and life and also help buffer ph.

    But you can still use distilled water in your fish tanks by mixing it with mineralizing supplements or water that help your fish stay healthy and stabilize water pH levels as well.

    Can You Use Distilled Water In A Fish Tank?

    Freshwater fish and plants, both require water loaded with natural minerals, which is found in tap water. The tap water in the freshwater fish tanks allows the aquatic plants to photosynthesize. Additionally, many invertebrates including shrimps need these essential minerals to grow and thrive happily in your fish tank.

    If you’re planning to use distilled water in a freshwater fish tank, measures should be taken to maintain mineral balance to stabilize ph levels and water hardness accordingly. If there’s no need to use distilled water in freshwater fish tanks, I suggest avoiding using it. That’s because on one end, it gives you more control over nutrient input and output, on the other hand, it gets very costly and can be difficult to manage specially for novice fish keepers.

    Contrary to distilled water, I highly recommend using tap water in freshwater fish tanks because it’s already rich in all the beneficial minerals required for a healthy aquarium. Treated tap water with a de-chlorinator like Seachem Prime will be fine for most aquariums.

    If you venture into planted tanks, discus fish, and saltwater tanks, remineralized distilled water can be a consideration.

    Should you use Tap Water for Saltwater?

    Toadstool Coral in Reef Tank

    Aquarium experts are usually reluctant to use tap water in saltwater tanks. That’s because the water parameters of saltwater aquarium need to be precise than a freshwater aquarium and many unknown nutrients enter the tank water and cause unnecessary problems.

    The water parameters in saltwater: Salinity, pH, Carbonate hardness, Phosphates, Calcium, etc. However, the major problem in saltwater is the levels of these components can fluctuate on and off, creating instability and leading to algae problems in the tank water.

    Not only this, but tap water introduces many other impurities that can mess up with your aquarium ecosystem. Therefore, many seasoned aquarists choose other reliables sources of water such as distilled water, reverse osmosis water, or reverse osmosis deionized (RODI) water, other than tap water.

    How to Use In Your Tanks?

    Suppose you own a freshwater fish tank and you know all the consequences of using distilled water in a freshwater aquarium. But still, you want to use distilled water. Sure, you have your reasons. And yes, you can use distilled water and NOT harm your fish by following these precautionary steps. Following these steps will prevent a fatal effect on your aquarium health.

    Re-mineralized

    The minerals in tap water create a healthy and stable environment for your fish. Therefore, to make distilled water safe for your fish, you first need to remineralize it.

    How to Remineralize for tanks

    There are numerous ways you can remineralize distilled water for a fish tank.

    Mixing in Epsom Salt, Calcium Chloride, and Baking soda

    This is one of the best and most cost-effective ways of remineralizing distilled water.

    All the above-mentioned nutrients work in a rhythmic pattern to make your fish tank a living heaven for your fish.

    1. Epsom salt helps raise the magnesium level in distilled water
    2. Calcium chloride ensures proper osmotic balance in the aquarium water by bringing the crucial minerals
    3. Baking soda helps raise the pH levels of distilled water and ensures a stable ph.
    Adding water conditioner, Baking soda, and Acid Buffer

    Another easy method to remineralize distilled water is taking some water conditioner, containing essential minerals. Add baking soda so the pH levels of distilled water can be raised, and then an acid buffer to bring down the pH levels by 7.

    Add Seachem Equilibrium or Shrimp Mineral (Recommended)

    For freshwater tanks, adding Seachem Equilibrium in distilled water to remineralize it, does wonders.

    For this, I recommend using a commercial remineralize that comes with instructions for proper usage and dosage to avoid inconvenience.

    My Pick
    Seachem Equilibrium

    A great remineralizer for freshwater tanks. Best used with RO, RODI, and distilled water. Completely aquarium safe

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    And if you’re looking to remineralize distilled water for a shrimp tank, I strongly recommend using shrimp mineral to add essential minerals to the tank water for your healthy and happy shrimps.

    Editor’s Choice
    SaltyShrimp – Shrimp Mineral

    Editor’s Choice

    The go to for remineralizing your source water. Highly recommended for all shrimp tank setups

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    A gentle reminder:

    • Never use only distilled water in your fish tank as this would harm the fish. They possess a selectively permeable membrane which may lead to a trauma (caused by osmosis) when placed in distilled water. A good example of fish that is highly susceptible to such trauma is are Betta fish.

    Proper tank and water maintenance

    When changing the water in your fish tank, youโ€™ll need to be familiar with some of the tips I provided. This will help preserve the lives of your fish and the tank in which they are kept.

    Make sure to clean your tank when the need arises or you might just be harboring a foreign pathogenic species. The good thing about this is that you donโ€™t need to visit an expert in order to get it done. Just ensure that there are no leakages before draining the water in your fish tank so that they donโ€™t flow into a nearby stream when doing this!

    FAQS

    Is This Type Safe For Fish?

    On it’s own, distilled water is not safe for fish. Distilled water lacks trace elements and materials that are essential to the lives of your aquatic inhabitants. You can use a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks or marine salt mix for saltwater tanks to get these missing elements back into your water.

    What Water Is Best?

    For freshwater tanks, the best for the money is tap water treated with a decholorinator. For planted tanks or sensitive fish like Discus Fish, RO or distilled water that is mineralized work great. For reef tanks, RODI water is the best.

    Can I Top Off My Tanks With this type of water?

    Yes, you can top off your fish tank with distilled water. Trace elements and minerals remain in your aquarium when water evaporates. You are just replacing the lost water, which makes distilled water okay to use for top off.

    Is Spring Water Better For Tanks?

    Distilled Water that is remineralized would be a better choice. Spring water’s make up can differ from brand to brand, which can cause shock to your fish. Distilled will be a more consistent source – just remineralize it.

    How Do You Remineralize Water?

    You can purchase a remineralizer like Seachem Equilibrium for freshwater tanks. For saltwater tanks, marine salt mix will remineralize your water.

    Final Thoughts

    So, when shouldnโ€™t you consider filling your fish tank with distilled water?

    Never use distilled water only when youโ€™re changing water in your fish tank!

    I hope you got that clearly, right? The reason for this is because of the immediate change in pH that this will cause and the lack of minerals essential to your fish’s health. Avoid a catastrophe by remineralizing your distilled water if you decide to use it. If you have any questions, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Thanks for reading!

    References