Author: Mark Valderrama

If you’re like me, then one of your favorite things to do is sit back and watch your reef tank filled with beautiful fish swimming around. Among the many different types of fishes that can be kept in a reef tank, lyretail anthias (Pseudanthias squamipinnis) are perhaps some of the most colorful and striking. Lyretail anthias require a fair bit of care, but if you’re up for it they are definitely worth keeping. In this article I’ll provide a complete guide on how to take care of lyretail anthias so that you can enjoy them in your reef tank for years to come.

These aren’t fish you set up and forget. They’re demanding, they eat constantly, and they will show you every water quality problem your tank has. But when they’re thriving in a mature reef, there’s nothing quite like watching a school of them dart and hover in open water. That image is worth earning.

Species Overview

What People Get Wrong

Most hobbyists underestimate the feeding commitment. Lyretail anthias are not “set up and leave” reef fish. They have high metabolisms and need to eat multiple times a day. In the wild, they’re constantly picking planktonic organisms from the water column. Replicating that in captivity takes real effort, and failing to do so is the fastest way to lose these fish. Don’t buy lyretail anthias unless you can feed them at least twice a day, every single day.

The second mistake is adding them to immature systems. These fish do fine in stable, established tanks but will stress and decline in anything newly set up. Aim for a system that has been running at least six months to a year before considering them.

The Hard Rule

Never add lyretail anthias to a tank under 125 gallons (473 liters). Full stop. They need open water column space, and the harem group dynamics require room for multiple individuals to establish territories without constant fighting. A tank that’s too small creates chronic stress, suppresses immune function, and kills them slowly.

Origins And Habitat

The lyretail anthias goes by many names but is pretty easy to identify.

Contrary to popular belief, these fish are not true anthias species belonging to the Anthias genus. Instead, they belong to the Pseudanthias genus. As a fish species of Pseudanthias, these medium-sized fish have very bright colors that bring great contrast to the aquarium setting.

Lyretail anthias are native to the Indo-West Pacific Ocean. They can be found throughout the Red Sea as well as off the coasts of Japan, Australia, and South Africa. There, these fish form huge harems in clear tropical waters consisting of one male and up to 10 females. They depend on coral reefs for protection and food, mainly zooplankton.

Though these peaceful fish can be found throughout many ecosystems, there is little physical difference between populations.

Hermaphroditism And Sexual Dimorphism

Lyretail anthias demonstrate protogynous hermaphroditism, much like clownfish. This is the evolutionary ability for the fish to change from female to male depending on internal and external environmental factors.

Protogynous hermaphroditism is designed to increase reproduction rates and is especially successful in harem communities. Lyretails like to stay in large aggregations of about 10 females for every one male. When this male leaves or dies, a female will undergo the transition to male to fill this space and to optimize reproduction rates.

On top of this, lyretails display sexual dimorphism. Simply put, this is when male and female individuals of the same species differ in appearance. For the lyretail anthias, this difference is significant.

Male lyretail anthias grow considerably larger than females, maxing out at about 6 inches (15 cm) while females typically stay under 3 inches (7.6 cm). The bigger difference is in color.

Female lyretail anthias are sherbet-colored with a yellowy-pink body and bright yellow underbelly. The eyes have hints of purple which are further accented by the purple streak that runs along their cheeks.

Male lyretail anthias are much more ornate. These fish are dark purplish-red with contrasting red fins. Like females, they have a bright red streak that runs along their cheeks. They also have an identifiable elongated dorsal spine and some extension to the rest of their fins.

In the case of a missing male, females have the ability to transition into a male in under a month. If a female harem has been established without a male, the most dominant female will make the transition in about 170 to 280 days.

Lyretail Anthias Tank Requirements

Though beautiful fish, lyretails aren’t the easiest fish to keep in the aquarium. This is largely due to their spatial and dietary needs. Still, the lyretail anthias is considered to be one of the easier Pseudanthias species to maintain.

Lyretails live above the reef and need open swimming space. In the tank setting, hobbyists also need additional space to comfortably keep large numbers of these fish together. Because of this, they need at least a 125 gallon aquarium (473 liters).

Though these fish will look their best against a natural backdrop of coral, this isn’t always necessary. One of the important factors to remember when keeping these fish is that they are active zooplankton feeders, constantly searching for floating foods.

A reef aquarium setting will naturally help to maintain populations of microorganisms so that they don’t need to be manually supplemented as often.

Are They Hardy?

Though lyretails aren’t necessarily sensitive to water parameters, they do best when conditions are maintained and stable. These fish will show their brightest colors with minimal nitrates and phosphates in a reef tank setting.

Lyretail anthias are generally hardy, though they should only be kept in matured and established systems.

Reality Of Keeping Lyretail Anthias

Here’s what daily life with lyretail anthias actually looks like: you’re feeding twice, ideally three times a day. Frozen mysis, frozen brine, copepods from a refugium or pod culture. These fish are always on the move, always hunting the water column, and they’ll make your feeding schedule non-negotiable.

In a mature reef with a refugium cranking out pods, they’ll thrive with less intervention. In a tank without that natural food source, you’re doing the work manually. Both approaches can work, but only if you’re consistent. A week of inconsistent feeding will show up on the fish as dulled color and reduced activity. Two weeks and you may start losing individuals.

On the positive side: they’re absolutely stunning to watch as a group. The male displays to the females, the females interact with each other, and the whole school moves through the tank with a kind of orchestrated energy that’s hard to describe. If you’ve put in the work to build a mature reef, these fish are the reward.

Temperament

Lyretail anthias are active fish. They will usually stay at the top of or in front of the live rock, swimming loosely in their harem.

In general, these fish keep to themselves if conditions are met. Male lyretail anthias can become territorial at times, though they won’t inflict injury on another fish.

It is also common to see females picking at each other, especially if there is no male present in the tank. At that point, the biggest and brightest females may work out which one will assume the position of male in the group.

Are They Aggressive?

The lyretail anthias is regarded as one of the more aggressive species within the Pseudanthias genus. They are slightly sensitive to imperfections in saltwater tank conditions and parameters, which can affect their individual behaviors.

Lyretails are constantly searching for food. If food supplies run low, these fish will become aggressive toward other fish who might compete for resources. This is especially true for smaller and slower-moving species.

In the same way, lyretails can become aggressive if space is limited. Though the males are mostly regarded as being territorial, the females will chase after other fish if they feel cramped.

Lyretails are only concerned with food that is free-floating in the water column and won’t pick at the rocks like other foragers. These fish can be safely kept with soft corals, large polyp stony (LPS) corals, and small polyp stony (SPS) corals without concern.

Though there is usually no risk with keeping lyretail anthias in a reef setup, it’s always possible for an individual fish to start picking at coral unexpectedly.

Tankmates

Not only are lyretail anthias reef-safe, but they’re also a great community fish overall. Space and dietary strains can cause individual fish to become more aggressive, but they can usually be kept with an assortment of fish.

Lyretail anthias are best kept with other reef species. This includes damselfish, tangs, wrasses, and some angelfish.

To help prevent issues with aggression, allow lyretails their own space within the aquarium. These fish will mainly stay at the top of or in front of the rockwork. Avoid other smaller fish that like to stay in the same areas for extended periods of time.

Most hobbyists pick up a group of all-female lyretail anthias and allow them to pick a male among themselves. It’s best to either pick all small juvenile females or a group of females where one is noticeably larger. Immediately adding a male to the tank can cause rejection and increased aggression between individuals.

Though these fish are a shoaling species, they actually do fine on their own in the aquarium. Many reefers have had luck keeping only one lyretail anthias by itself in a full reef tank setting. There have been no noticeable differences in behavior and the fish remains present and active.

Most times, a single fish will transition to a male when kept alone.

There are many different kinds of anthias in the aquarium hobby, both true ones and Pseudanthias. The problem is that one is more beautiful than the next, making it difficult to pick and choose. Pick species that can tell each other apart, like:

• Bartlett’s anthias (Pseudanthias bartlettorum)
• Dispar anthias/Madder seaperch (Pseudanthias dispar)
• Bicolor anthias (Pseudanthias bicolor)
• Evansi anthias (Pseudanthias evansi)

Some hobbyists have seen aggression between males of each species, though there is usually no cause for concern. If keeping multiple species of anthias together, the tank should be much larger than the minimum 125 gallons (473 liters).

Diet

The hardest part of owning lyretail anthias is keeping them fed. These are very active fish with high metabolisms that need to be fed regularly. This is also in addition to their need for small planktonic foods, similar to their natural diet in the wild.

Luckily, most hobbyists have had success getting their lyretails to accept a wide variety of aquarium foods. For best coloration, provide a varied diet.

Lyretail anthias are carnivores. They need a good assortment of meaty foods to meet their dietary demands. This should include a selection of live, frozen, and freeze-dried options, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and black worms.

If you’re struggling with getting your fish to eat larger foods, try feeding copepods or a specialized food, like Reef Frenzy by Larry’s Reef Services (LRS).

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Not all lyretails will readily accept flake or pellet food at first, and some may never accept anything other than their preferred foods. However, if your lyretail anthias do accept other foods, high-quality flake foods can serve as a staple in the diet.

To ensure that your fish are always happy and healthy, provide feedings 2 to 3 times a day. They do better in a reef aquarium with lots of fauna in the tank such as copepods and zooplankton. You can supplement plankton with foods like Benereef, which contains planktivore content that lyretail anthias love.

Should You Get Lyretail Anthias?

Good Fit If:

• You have a mature, established reef system that has been running at least 6 to 12 months
• Your tank is 125 gallons (473 liters) or larger with open swimming space in the water column
• You can commit to feeding 2 to 3 times daily without exception
• You have a refugium or pod culture to supplement natural food supply
• You want a schooling species that adds dramatic movement and color

Avoid If:

• Your tank is under 125 gallons (473 liters)
• Your system is newer than 6 months old
• You travel frequently or can’t maintain a consistent feeding schedule
• You’re new to saltwater aquariums
• You’re not prepared to quarantine before adding to the display

Common Diseases

Though lyretails are hardy fish, they can succumb to common aquarium illnesses rather quickly. Most anthias available in stores are affected by one ailment or another. Because of this, it’s definitely recommended to quarantine before adding them to the main display.

One of the most common marine diseases your lyretail anthias are likely to encounter is Uronema, usually Uronema marinum. This is a free-living ciliate parasite that uses the host for living, feeding, and reproducing.

Though most life stages are fulfilled while actively infecting the fish, the parasite can enter the water column and affect other organisms. It can survive on bacteria and detritus within the system indefinitely, meaning that it will survive through fallow periods.

Uronema is very quick to kill and should not be ignored. Unfortunately, its symptoms can be difficult to diagnose, which can take up valuable treatment time. The main symptoms are red bumps and abrasions that eventually grow into large, open sores. Discoloration, flashing, loss of appetite, and heavy breathing also follow.

Unfortunately, many hobbyists opt to euthanize their fish once this parasite has displayed itself in the home aquarium. Usually, the fish is too far gone and it’s better to sacrifice one to save the whole. However, if you manage to catch it early enough and have the proper quarantine setup and medications, there is still some hope.

The best course of treatment is a 5-minute freshwater dip and a dose of metronidazole every 48 hours for 10 to 14 days. For best results, feed medicated food with a binder like Seachem Focus and Seachem MetroPlex.

Introducing this parasite into the main display will cause it to live in the aquarium indefinitely. The best way to prevent it from devastating your tank is by quarantining.

Where To Buy

You can find lyretail anthias at well-stocked local fish stores or online from reputable marine fish suppliers. I recommend buying from sellers who can confirm the fish are eating in-store before you purchase.

• Flip Aquatics – A reliable source for quality marine fish with good acclimation practices
• Dan’s Fish – Another solid online option for saltwater livestock

Final Thoughts

The lyretail anthias is a beautiful saltwater fish built for the reef aquarium. In the wild, these fish form harems and feed on planktonic organisms within the water column. That diet can prove to be difficult for some hobbyists, though lyretails usually adapt well to aquarium foods and conditions once they’re settled in.

One of the major diseases to watch out for is Uronema, though they are very hardy after being properly acclimated. If you have the tank size, the feeding commitment, and a mature reef system, lyretail anthias will reward you with some of the most dynamic and visually striking behavior in the saltwater hobby.

SPS corals are not hard to keep because of what they need. They’re hard because they don’t forgive inconsistency. I’ve watched reefers with decades of experience lose acropora colonies overnight from a single alkalinity spike. And I’ve watched beginners succeed with SPS when they built the right system and kept their hands out of it. The coral itself isn’t the obstacle. Your water column is.

Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

Small polyp stony (SPS) corals are the pinnacle of reef aquarium keeping. In the wild, corals like staghorn and table acropora build the backbone of tropical reef systems, housing thousands of species and defining the reef’s vertical structure. In the aquarium, they deliver that same visual impact at the top of the rockwork. No soft coral or LPS can replicate what a full SPS colony looks like under 400 PAR. But that beauty comes with demands that most hobbyists underestimate.

After 25 years in this hobby and time running fish stores where we sold frags and watched customers succeed and fail, here’s what I know: SPS is not the next step after soft corals. It’s a different discipline entirely.

What Is SPS Coral?

SPS stands for small polyp stony coral. These are reef-building corals in the order Scleractinia that construct calcium carbonate skeletons as they grow. Their polyps are tiny compared to LPS corals, which is where the name comes from. The skeleton is exposed and rigid, covered in a thin layer of tissue called the coenosarc that connects all the individual polyps.

Zooxanthellae, the symbiotic algae living inside coral tissue, fuel SPS growth through photosynthesis. This is why light quality and intensity matter so much: cut the PAR, cut the energy supply. Without adequate light, zooxanthellae compensate by producing darker pigments (the dreaded “brown out”) or the coral simply starves.

Taxonomically, SPS corals belong to the Scleractinia order and the Hexacorallia subclass, which means their polyp symmetry is divisible by six. In the wild, they colonize the upper reef zones where wave energy is highest and sunlight is most direct. That’s your setup blueprint right there: high light, high flow, near-constant stability.

SPS vs. LPS vs. Soft Corals

Understanding where SPS sits in the coral hierarchy is critical before you buy your first frag.

Soft corals have no true calcium carbonate skeleton. They’re held up by water pressure and small internal spicules. They’re the most forgiving: many tolerate poor lighting, inconsistent flow, and imperfect water chemistry. Great starting point for new reefers.

LPS corals have a true skeleton but large, fleshy polyps that extend outward dramatically. Most LPS live lower on the reef where flow is gentler and light is indirect. They need more stable parameters than soft corals but are still more forgiving than SPS.

SPS corals are the reef builders. Their skeleton grows continuously as long as chemistry supports it. They live at the top of the reef, need the most light, and react to water chemistry changes faster than any other coral group. A 2 dKH alkalinity swing that a leather coral shrugs off can bleach a milli acropora colony in 48 hours.

Who Should Actually Keep SPS

This is where I’m going to be direct: SPS is not for everyone, and there’s no shame in that.

You’re ready for SPS if your tank has been running stable for at least 12 months, you test alkalinity at least twice a week, you have a dosing pump or calcium reactor, your lighting can hit 200+ PAR at the rockwork, and you’ve already kept LPS successfully without unexplained deaths. If any of those aren’t true, start with Montipora and use it as your chemistry test subject.

You’re not ready if you’re still troubleshooting brown algae, your parameters swing week to week, or you’re on a hang-on-back filter with stock lighting. That’s not a judgment. That’s just chemistry.

Water Parameters

These are the target ranges I recommend based on what I’ve seen work consistently. Note that stability within range matters more than hitting exact numbers.

Lighting and Flow

High-quality lighting is not optional for SPS. A programmable LED fixture with full spectrum control is the minimum. The EcoTech Radion G5 is the standard for serious SPS tanks for good reason: consistent spectrum, reliable PAR output, and full programmatic control over ramp-up and ramp-down so corals aren’t shocked by sudden light changes.

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Water flow is equally critical. Random, turbulent flow keeps waste from settling on coral tissue, delivers nutrients to polyps, and prevents dead zones inside dense colonies. Most SPS tanks run two or more powerheads in alternating patterns. A single powerhead pointed at the rock creates a dead zone on the back side of every colony it hits.

Filtration: a sump system is standard in any SPS setup. More water volume means more stability, more room for biological filtration, and easier nutrient export. Running SPS without a sump is possible but significantly harder to maintain stable chemistry.

Types of SPS Coral

SPS corals span dozens of genera, but the hobby trades around a handful of key groups. Here’s what you’ll actually encounter.

Montipora

Montipora Cap Coral

The Monti Cap coral is a good stepping stone to serious SPS reefkeeping. Becomes large and grows very fast

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• Scientific Name: Montipora spp.
• Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
• Temperament: Non-aggressive
• PAR Requirements: 150+ PAR
• Flow Requirements: Moderate-High
• Placement: Middle to Upper
• Origin: Indo-Pacific

Montipora is the entry point for SPS. This genus covers encrusting, plating, and branching growth forms and comes in virtually every color. The plating “Monti Cap” varieties grow in large circular disks with white growth tips at the edges. Montipora digitata branches with thicker growth and produces antler-like structures over time.

Why start here? Montipora tells you if your system is SPS-capable before you invest in a $200 acropora frag. It needs SPS conditions but tolerates slightly more variation than the more demanding genera. Think of it as a living test kit. If your Monti is browning out, your nutrients are off. If the tips aren’t showing white growth, your alkalinity is low or your PAR isn’t adequate.

Read our full Montipora coral care guide for detailed setup and color optimization tips.

Pocilloporidae Family: Pocillopora, Stylophora, Seriatopora

Pocillopora Coral

The Pocillopora is a great first time SPS coral that is forgiving on parameters. Peaceful and a moderate grower

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• Scientific Name: Pocillopora spp., Seriatopora spp., Stylophora spp.
• Difficulty Level: Easy-Moderate
• Temperament: Non-aggressive
• PAR Requirements: 200+ PAR
• Flow Requirements: High
• Placement: Middle to Upper
• Origin: Indo-Pacific

The Pocilloporidae family gives you the classic “bird’s nest” look. These three genera are closely related and often confused with each other on frag discs.

Pocillopora has thick, stubby branches with a slightly fuzzy polyp extension. Most common colors are green, purple, and pink. These handle higher flow well due to their robust branch structure.

Stylophora is nearly identical to Pocillopora at the frag stage. At colony size, Stylophora grows in a more uniform, ordered pattern while Pocillopora tends to sprawl. Both are good beginner-SPS choices.

Seriatopora (the true bird’s nest) has very thin, pointed branches that create a delicate twig-like structure. Polyps sit farther apart on the branches. These are more delicate to handle and transport but frag easily. Colors range from green to purple to bi-color combinations.

Acropora

Acropora Coral

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The Acropora Coral is considered the pinnacle coral to keep in reef tank hobby. Difficult to care for, but extremely rewarding and easy to frag

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• Scientific Name: Acropora spp.
• Difficulty Level: Hard
• Temperament: Non-aggressive
• PAR Requirements: 250–400+ PAR
• Flow Requirements: High
• Placement: Upper third of tank
• Origin: Indo-Pacific (some species in Caribbean)

Acropora is the pinnacle. Full stop. A mature, multi-colony acropora display is one of the most impressive things in the aquarium hobby. There are hundreds of species, from tight table corals to elegant stag horns to intricate milli frags, and the designer trade around named morphs is its own subculture in reefing.

What makes acropora genuinely difficult: they sense chemistry changes faster than any coral I’ve worked with. They’re the canary in the coal mine. Every pump failure, every top-off malfunction, every bad water change gets reported instantly through RTN (rapid tissue necrosis) or STN (slow tissue necrosis). You don’t get the week of warning you’d get from a hammer coral. You wake up and the frag is bare skeleton.

Read our full Acropora coral care guide for species selection and advanced parameter management.

Difficulty Tiers: Beginner to Advanced SPS

What People Get Wrong About SPS

They chase zero nutrients. The “ultra-low nutrient system” (ULNS) approach has produced countless brown, stressed acropora tanks. SPS needs zooxanthellae to produce the pigments that give it color. Zero nitrate and phosphate starves those pigments. You want 1–5 ppm nitrate and 0.03–0.07 ppm phosphate for full color expression. A completely barren nutrient profile produces a beautiful beige coral.

They think stability means weekly testing. If you’re testing alkalinity once a week on an SPS tank, you have a 7-day blind spot. Alk can swing 1–2 dKH between your tests and you’d never know until the coral starts to bleach. Twice-weekly minimum for alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium is the standard in serious SPS systems. Daily testing is common in heavy acropora tanks.

They add SPS to an immature system. Twelve months is the standard guideline because that’s roughly how long a reef system takes to establish stable bacterial populations, work through the typical algae succession phases, and reach predictable parameter behavior. An 8-month-old tank can feel stable, but the chemistry swings are often just slow enough that you don’t catch them until the coral reacts.

They confuse “hardy SPS” with “easy.” Montipora is the hardiest SPS. That doesn’t mean you can keep it on a power compact light with no dosing. It means it tolerates slightly more variation than Acropora. All SPS requires SPS conditions. Full stop.

Should You Keep SPS Coral?

Good fit if: You’ve kept a successful LPS reef for over a year, your parameter testing is already routine, you have a sump, quality lighting at 200+ PAR, and you’re willing to start with Montipora before moving to acropora. SPS is genuinely one of the most rewarding things in the aquarium hobby. A full acropora display tank is a sight that doesn’t get old. Just build toward it correctly.

Compared to LPS: If you want color and movement with more forgiveness, LPS is the better choice. Hammers, torches, and brain corals are visually stunning, reward good husbandry, and don’t punish minor parameter lapses. Choose SPS when you’re ready to go to the next level of chemistry management and want the reef structure that only branching stony corals can provide.

FAQ

What is the easiest SPS coral to keep?

Montipora capricornis (plating Montipora) and Pocillopora are the most forgiving SPS genera. They still require SPS-level lighting, flow, and stable parameters, but they tolerate minor variation better than Acropora. Frags are inexpensive and widely available, making them the standard starting point.

When can you add SPS corals to a new reef tank?

The standard recommendation is 12 months minimum. This allows enough time for the nitrogen cycle to fully establish, algae succession phases to complete, and parameter behavior to stabilize. Some experienced reefers add Montipora to well-established systems at 6–8 months, but the failure rate is significantly higher before the one-year mark.

Why are my SPS corals turning brown?

Browning out is usually caused by one of three things: too little light (increase PAR or adjust photoperiod), too much phosphate (check exports and feeding), or too little nitrate (paradoxically, zero nutrients causes the zooxanthellae that produce color pigments to compensate with darker pigments). Target 1–5 ppm nitrate and 0.03–0.07 ppm phosphate for best coloration.

Can SPS corals sting each other?

SPS corals are not aggressive in the way LPS corals are. They don’t deploy sweeper tentacles to attack neighbors. But as colonies grow and branches contact each other, tissue necrosis can develop at contact points. The bigger danger is LPS nearby: hammer and frogspawn sweeper tentacles can reach SPS and cause rapid tissue loss. Keep LPS and SPS in separate zones of the tank.

How do I frag SPS corals?

SPS frags well because the calcium carbonate skeleton cuts cleanly. Use a band saw (Gryphon C-40 is the standard), bone cutters, or a Dremel with a diamond blade for smaller pieces. Cut branches 1–2 inches (2.5–5 cm) from the colony, mount immediately on a plug or rubble with super glue gel, and dip in coral dip before placing in the tank. New frags are vulnerable to parameter swings for 2–4 weeks while they recover from the cut.

Closing Thoughts

SPS reefkeeping is one of the most technical disciplines in the aquarium hobby and one of the most rewarding. The chemistry management alone is a skill that takes time to develop. But when you get there, a mature SPS tank is something that very few hobbyists achieve and even fewer forget.

Start with Montipora. Get your dosing dialed in. Run a stable system for six months before you touch acropora. That’s not a restriction. That’s the fastest path to keeping acropora long-term.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

References

• World Register of Marine Species: Scleractinia taxonomy
• Practical Fishkeeping: Husbandry and care advice
• Reef Builders: SPS coral keeping and advanced reef chemistry

Aiptasia is one of the most frustrating reef pests I’ve dealt with in my 125-gallon reef tank. These pest anemones showed up hitching a ride on live rock, and before I knew it they were spreading to my corals. I’ve personally tested most of the removal methods out there. from Aiptasia-X to peppermint shrimp to berghia nudibranch. and I can tell you firsthand what actually works and what doesn’t. This guide covers everything I’ve learned over 25 years of keeping reef tanks about controlling and eliminating Aiptasia for good.

Hobbyists have been fighting the battle against Aiptasia for decades, and luckily, several solutions have been found to eradicate Aiptasia once and for all.

What are Aiptaisa Anemones?

When setting up a new saltwater tank, it can be very exciting to find any signs of unexpected life during the nitrogen cycle and shortly after. Copepods start to show up on the glass and even algae can be an amazing discovery. Until suddenly, you find a small, clear what-seems-to-be coral.

These ‘corals’ have long and thin tapered tentacles and might even resemble a kind of zoanthid at first. Usually, these tentacles will be attached to an oral disc that emerges from a long, translucent stalk. Sadly, more often than not, this unidentified polyp is actually a kind of pest anemone belonging to the Aiptasia genus.

The main problem with Aiptasia Anemones is that they are both sexual and asexual; they can quickly split to create exponentially more anemones in a very small period of time. Like other species of anemone, they have stinging cells that can cause damage to nearby coral, fish, and invertebrates.

They can also grow in very hard-to-reach places in the tank where you might not even see the problem forming. Their tentacles will grow in order to reach light, though their stalks may elongate and emerge from dark crevices within the rockwork.

Naming And Other Pest Anemones

In general, all species within the Aiptasia genus are simply referred to as Aiptasia even though there are several other known members; other common names include glass anemone and rock anemone (not to be confused with rock flower anemones of the Phymathidae family).

Another type of pest anemone, Majano anemones (Anemonia manjano), may also be clumped together when talking about Aiptasia hitchhikers.

Majano anemones are said to be easier to remove than Aiptasia, but they will both cause a headache at the end of the day. Majano anemones are, in some ways, prettier than Aiptasia and have rounded green tentacles with a purplish-pink oral disc; they are typically larger, have much more opaque flesh, and overall more vibrant colors than Aiptasia.

Like Aiptasia, Majano anemones can quickly take over a tank and injure other corals and tankmates. Luckily, most of the removal methods are universal for pest anemones.

How Do They Enter The Aquarium?

Aiptasia Anemones are present in most aquarium systems. They can be very difficult to notice in dense rockwork and before you know it, you have a tank overrun by them. But how did they get there in the first place?

These anemones are hitchhikers, just like any other algae or invertebrate that unintentionally enters the aquarium. This means that they can come in on live rock, corals, or even filter media. Once established in the tank, they can then spread to every part of it, including the filtration system and sump.

In general, it’s not considered as an if these anemones will enter your system but a when.

How Do You Prevent Them From Entering The Aquarium?

Though Aiptasia Anemones will find its way into the aquarium if it wants to, there are some ways to protect your system.

Mainly, observation and preparation are key.

Observation And Identification

It might sound simple, but observation is the best way to find and destroy Aiptasia before they get the chance to destroy your reef tank.

Check and double-check new additions of live rock and coral. Use a flashlight to look in the crevices for any signs of tentacles popping up through the rockwork. Continue to check your tank daily for the next few weeks after a new addition.

It is easiest to find pest anemones when they are extended in the water instead of when they are emersed. If possible, observe live rock and corals from a quarantine system. From there, use one of the following methods to remove it.

One of the biggest mistakes beginners make is that they think an Aiptasia is a desirable coral and let it continue to grow. It is important to accurately identify the anemone first in order to go about fixing the problem. More often than not, any ‘lucky’ coral you see on new rock or a coral plug is actually an Aiptasia.

Quarantine

That being said, all new live rock and coral should be quarantined. No exceptions.

Not only does quarantine help prevent disease and illness from entering the aquarium, but it also greatly reduces the risk of inadvertently introducing Aiptasia Anemones as well.

Allowing two or more weeks of secluded observation will allow most hitchhikers to rear their ugly heads. It is much easier to fix these problems in a controlled setting than having to break down the rockwork and possibly filtration once put into a display. It also means that you can be more vigorous and widespread with treatments, such as chemical solutions.

Remove Frag Plugs

When buying new corals, they will often come on a frag plug. No matter if these corals were aqua-cultured in a controlled environment or gifted by a trusted fellow hobbyist, this frag plug should always be removed.

For one reason or another, frag plugs are notorious for carrying in unwanted hitchhikers. Aiptasia are very quick to occupy free real estate and a frag plug is no exception. Most often, these anemones are very tiny and might only be able to be seen under a magnifying glass.

When in doubt, throw it out.

Source Rock

Another way Aiptasia Anemones travels across tanks is by live rock and filter media. Many times, hobbyists share these with each other in order to seed a new tank with beneficial bacteria. Though this usually works flawlessly, there is always the chance that you’re introducing Aiptasia into the system.

If you’re really worried about introducing pest anemones via live rock or filter media, do not use what has been in another tank. Instead, use brand new dry rock and cycle the tank with another method. This way, there is no chance of having any pests come in.

The downside to this method is that many of the beneficial hitchhikers are lost as well, like copepods, and will need to be manually introduced later.

How To Get Rid of Them From Your Aquarium (The Best Ways

The key to dealing with an Aiptasia outbreak in your aquarium is acting quickly and effectively as soon as you see one appear. The longer you wait to take action, the more chance they have to grow and spread throughout the reef tank.

There are a few different methods based on the size, type, and amount of pest anemones in your saltwater tank. Whether the method works for you will also depend on several factors and Aiptasia removal could become a regular part of maintenance.

Here are the best ways to get rid of Aiptasia Anemones from your saltwater aquarium.

Manual Clean-Up

Manual removal is one of the easiest methods, but also the least guaranteed way to fully remove Aiptasia from the aquarium. This is because these anemones are capable of growing from the smallest piece of flesh leftover, and it can be very easy to miss; in fact, Aiptasia only need a single remaining cell to regenerate into a new animal.

For manual removal, you will need to be able to take the piece of rock out of the tank. Once removed, use scissors, razors, bone cutters, and whatever else you need to in order to get every last piece of anemone off of the rock. Some hobbyists split the rock in half entirely to ensure that there is no chance of the anemone coming back.

Still, it is easy to miss other smaller Aiptasia that might have already propagated or left remnants behind.

Super Glue (Cyanoacrylate)

Super glue is one of the easiest and least damaging ways to control Aiptasia Anemones, though this method does not work all of the time.

This method simply involves coating the anemone in a thick sarcophagus of superglue so that it is unable to extend. Simply remove the affected piece of rock from the aquarium and apply a healthy dollop of glue.

There are a few problems with this method, though. First, it’s not always feasible to remove the piece of rock from the reef tank. Second, the anemone is very capable of growing around the glue and out through another opening, allowing it to live; some hobbyists have even seen them come out from the other side of the rock if the opportunity presents itself.

Super glue is most effective for removable pieces of rock and small Aiptasia that can be generously coated and sealed.

Chemical Products

There are many chemical solutions on the aquarium market designed to eliminate Aiptasia from the aquarium. This method can be very effective when facing large colonies of pest anemone with sizable individuals.

Kills Aiptasia

Aiptasia-X

A great solution for target elimination of Aiptasia in a reef tank.

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One of the most popular Aiptasia removal chemicals is Aiptasia-X by Red Sea. This product needs to be applied to the surface of the oral disc of the anemone, where it is then forced to be ingested. Within a few minutes, the anemone implodes on itself, preventing regrowth and larvae from spreading throughout the rest of the reef aquarium.

Other popular brands include:

• Joe’s Juice Aiptasia Eliminator
• Salifert Aiptasia
• Blue Life Aiptasia Rx
• Reef Kalkwasser (calcium hydroxide). Though not a product specifically meant for Aiptaisa, Reef Kalkwasser can be used to create a paste that can cover the disc of the anemone in a similar fashion.

These chemicals are not effective for all reefers though, and these products can actually harm healthy corals if not applied correctly. The application can also become difficult if the anemone is situated in a hard-to-reach spot where it has time to react and retract. If only a small dosage is received, then the Aiptasia may come back stronger and start to propagate.

Other DIY Solutions

If you don’t have immediate access to chemical solutions, then you might need to make your own solution. It should be noted that these methods are very prone to failure and should only be done under close moderation.

1. Lemon juice. Lemon juice has been used to successfully remove Aiptasia Anemones. Fill a syringe with lemon juice and inject it into the anemone. The acidity will theoretically cause the anemone to die.
2. Vinegar. Similarly, vinegar can be injected and will kill Aiptasia due to its acidity.
3. Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide is not likely to work when only applied over the anemone. Instead, it can be used to wipe off the remaining parts of Aiptasia that are leftover from previous attempts of removal.
4. Boiling water. Boiling water can be mixed with lemon juice or vinegar or used by itself. Again, use a syringe to inject it into the anemone.

These methods have worked for some hobbyists and completely failed for others. It is necessary to gauge how much solution is entering the system as both lemon juice and vinegar can start to affect pH due to their acidity. Boiling water can also burn nearby fish and invertebrates.

If able to do so, attempt other methods first as to not encourage propagation from a failed removal.

Lasers

Lasers are an expensive solution but can be very effective at reaching hard-to-reach places without having to put your hands in the reef tank. They are a relatively new technology being introduced into the reef aquarium hobby for treating Aiptasia Anemones and come with mixed results that might not make their price worth it.

These lasers need to be very strong and capable of melting away Aiptasia anemone. The problem with this is that they are also very capable of injuring other corals, fish, and invertebrates in the process.

Some hobbyists have reported them as being completely ineffective.

Livestock (Fish And Inverts That Love Eating This Type)

Adding Aiptasia-eating fish and invertebrates to the tank system is usually a great alternative to the other methods mentioned. However, there is always a risk when adding something new to the tank.

The main problem with adding additional livestock into the reef aquarium is that many of the species recommended to add cannot discriminate between a coral and an anemone. As a result, they might start to target colonies of desired corals and leave the Aiptasia nice and healthy. It is also possible that your fish or invertebrate will successfully eat Aiptasia and then starts to eat corals, too.

Regardless, many hobbyists try their luck at adding a new fish or invertebrate species for dealing with Aiptasia problems; some can even arrange temporary housings until the anemones have been eliminated and then pass them along to another hobbyist.

Here are some of the most common fish and invertebrates species for removing Aiptasia from your saltwater aquarium.

Butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae family)

For the most part, nearly all common species of butterflyfish have been used to effectively control Aiptasia populations. It is known that butterflyfish are not considered reef-safe and it should not come as a surprise if the one you add decides to go after corals.

There are, however, a few species that seem to be more reliable than others. This includes:

• Copperband butterflyfish (Chelmon rostratus)
• Klein’s butterfly (Chaetodon kleinii)
• Pearlscale butterfly (Chaetodon xanthurus)
• Raccoon butterfly (Chaetodon lunula)

Of course, always ensure that your setup is appropriate for the species you plan on adding. Tank size, water parameters, and diet should all be arranged to accommodate a new fish.

Eating Filefish (Monacanthidae family)

Aiptasia Eating Filefish are another popular addition for dealing with Aiptasia, though they are just as likely to nip at corals. Some hobbyists have found that buying captive-bred individuals helps deter coral picking and encourages Aiptasia Anemone hunting.

Aiptasia Eating Filefish aren’t the prettiest to have in a reef tank display and some species can get very large. However, the most popular Aiptasia-eating species, like the matted filefish (Acreichthys tomentosus), stay small and can quickly take care of a pest anemone problem.

It is not unheard of for filefish to suddenly start picking at corals, though.

Peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni)

Great Against Aiptasia

Peppermint Shrimp

These little shrimp are the most common livestock treatment for Aiptasia. Available as tank raised and reef safe.

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A group of peppermint shrimp is usually the route most reefers take for dealing with pest anemones as they are small yet effective.

With multiple individuals, peppermint shrimp can be expensive and their high demand in the hobby can also make them more difficult to obtain. Not to mention that the peppermint shrimp has a very similar appearance to the camel shrimp (Rhynchocinetes durbanensis), which is not reef-safe, and can easily be confused.

Overall, peppermint shrimp have a very high success rate for dealing with Aiptasia, however, they’ll typically avoid larger ones. They have also been known to graze on zoanthids as well.

Berghia Nudibranch (Berghia stephanieae)

If you’re limited on space but still want a natural predator of Aiptasia, Berghia nudibranchs are a great short-term solution.

These nudibranchs can also be expensive and you will need a good amount of them depending on the size of your saltwater tank. Take into consideration that some fish and other invertebrates might also see them as food in the meantime just as they’re starting to hunt for anemones.

The main problem with Berghia nudibranchs is that they only eat Aiptasia. This is great in the short term when you are desperate to get rid of all visible anemones, but doesn’t serve as a very long-term solution; once your anemone supply runs out, these nudibranchs will perish.

Many hobbyists like to pass on their nudibranchs to other tanks suffering from Aiptasia so that they don’t die in the process. They can be very difficult to catch though, and often you will not be able to save them all. If you are interested in purchasing them, I recommend buying them from Salty Underground.

Closing Thoughts

Aiptasia are the last thing you want to see in your aquarium but are largely unavoidable. These ugly, fast-growing pest anemones can quickly take over a display and infiltrate filtration systems if left to grow.

There are many different methods for removing them, including chemical products, more organic solutions, and livestock recommendations. Whatever method you end up choosing, you will most likely need to also use other alternatives and keep on schedule for a few months until there are absolutely no signs of Aiptasia.

One of the best ways to prevent a pest anemone infestation is by prevention. Even then, it is good to be prepared if one ever happens to enter your system.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Green star polyps are one of the first corals I put in a new reef tank, and I still keep them in mine. They’re nearly bulletproof: fast growing, tolerant of a range of parameters, and they create incredible motion in the tank when their polyps are extended and swaying in the flow. If you’re new to reef keeping, GSP is an excellent starting point that will give you quick success and build your confidence.

When it comes to Green Star Polyp Care, there usually isn’t much to it. The main thing is learning how fast it grows, where to place it, and how to control it. It can grow quite large if given the right conditions, and some reefers have even used them to create a wall of corals!

Today’s post covers everything you need to know about keeping Green Star Polyps successfully. You’ll be glad you did!

Species Overview

What People Get Wrong

Most reefers think GSP is so bulletproof that placement doesn’t matter. It does. This coral grows fast enough that a poorly placed frag can smother zoanthids or shade out a neighboring LPS colony within a month or two. Isolation on its own rock is not optional. It is the standard approach for a reason.

The other common mistake: treating a closed GSP like a dying coral. Green star polyps close up regularly. After handling, after a parameter shift, after a new fish swims past. They can stay closed for a week or two and bounce back completely fine. The moment you start moving them around trying to fix the problem, you make it worse.

Hard Rule: Give GSP its own dedicated rock that does not touch your main rockwork. Once it bridges the gap, containment becomes a full-time job.

Origins And Habitat

Like many other corals, green star polyps come from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific in turbid lagoons and along shallow to moderately deep reefs. There, they can be found alongside other soft corals, such as Xenia spp. and Clavularia spp.

Green star polyps are soft corals, meaning they do not have a calcium carbonate skeleton. Instead, they quickly grow as encrusting mats over rocks and other sessile objects.

Naming

In general, green star polyps are taxonomically categorized as Pachyclavularia violacea. This is a very broad name for these corals though, and it’s very likely that you have a species that is something other than Pachyclavularia violacea. The Pachyclavularia genus is also synonymous with Briareum and the two can be used interchangeably for this species.

Green star polyps are a type of soft coral (Alcyonacea order) though they contain sclerites, or small pieces of skeleton, within their tissue for structure.

What Do They Look Like?

When fully spread, green star polyps look like a lawn of grass. Individually, they have a white center and eight radial green tentacles. These serrated-like tentacles come out from a purple base with tubes for every polyp.

When closed, this coral looks like a pointy, purple mat. These corals can be temperamental and may stay closed for extended periods if something is off in the tank.

Varieties

There are not many variations of green star polyp and their appearance largely depends on the type of aquarium light being used. Because they are so easy to grow, they are mostly aquacultured.

There are a few varieties of green star polyp though, mainly with differences between shades of green, tentacle length, and skeleton branching.

It is very common to come across ‘neon’ varieties of green star polyps where the tentacles are fluorescent green. Other variations might have a more defined white center or more tints of yellow, though the general purple and green coloration stays the same.

Some variations of green star polyp might also be long-tentacled. It is believed that long green star polyps are hardier and grow faster than shorter ones, which can sometimes be confused with galaxea corals (Galaxea fascicularis).

Within the aquarium, there is also said to be a branching variety of green star polyp. This variety is different from the regular encrusting type and is much more rare and desirable. The problem is that it can be very difficult to tell apart from others as there is little difference between small frags and usually no difference at all between namings.

Branching green star polyps grow outwards, away from the rock; this means that they don’t necessarily need to grow on top of rock to spread and can create archways and limbs that extend across the reef tank.

Still, green star polyps have not reached the brand-name-worthiness of other soft corals, which keeps their prices relatively low.

Galaxea spp.

To the untrained eye, green star polyps can look very similar to species of Galaxea coral. This can be a costly mistake as Galaxea have long sweeper tentacles that can severely damage other corals.

These two corals look very similar and even have similar care requirements. Overall though, green star polyps tend to be larger, less compact, and have more tapered tips. In a mat, galaxea corals can have a shaggy appearance whereas green star polyps will have a more uniform sway.

Green Star Polyp Care Guide

Green star polyps are one of the most versatile corals in the aquarium, meaning they can be placed almost anywhere. The problem is that they will also spread everywhere they can.

Green star polyps do best under moderate to high reef lighting with moderate to high flow. They can usually withstand conditions above and below this, though low light will result in slower or minimal growth and high light can cause bleaching and algae.

These corals need moderate to high flow in order to keep algae off their purple skeleton. Because green star polyps are so concentrated, water flow needs to be able to remove any waste or debris from the top of the coral.

If water flow is inadequate, algae can start to build over the opening of the tubes, which prevents the polyps from expanding. Even more so, snails, hermit crabs, and algae-loving fish might start to crawl over or pick at this algae, which can result in longer periods of retraction.

However, you also want to make sure that you don’t place your green star polyps too close to other corals. These corals grow extremely fast and won’t hesitate to grow over and shade out zoanthids or other peaceful corals.

Because of this, many hobbyists like to keep them on a rock island of their own as they will rarely grow onto the substrate. Another option is to keep them around much more aggressive coral species (like LPS corals) that should fight back any green star polyps that try to invade their space.

Another popular option for green star polyp placement is the back or the bottom of the reef tank. Many hobbyists choose to create a background of green star polyp or a lawn on a bare bottom setup. It only takes a small piece of frag to have a waving mat of green within a couple of months.

Temperament In The Aquarium

Green star polyps will not sting other corals and are very peaceful. However, they are highly invasive and will not hesitate to grow over and shade out other corals.

As mentioned before, these corals do best when isolated. You do not need to worry about other corals being stung by them, but rather taken over by them. As long as green star polyps are kept away from other, less aggressive corals, then they should stay manageable.

Though these corals aren’t known to have a powerful sting, it is still recommended to keep them away from other corals at all times to prevent aggression.

Are They Toxic?

There is some belief that green star polyps are toxic and can release damaging chemicals into the aquarium when stressed, like zoanthids. However, this is largely a myth and has yet to be proven within the hobby.

If you are concerned about green star polyps releasing toxins, use gloves when handling and run activated carbon. Otherwise, it is extremely rare, if not impossible, to have any toxin complications due to green star polyps.

Care And Maintenance

Green star polyps are one of the easiest corals to care for, though some hobbyists can have difficulty with them due to the reef tank being too clean, inadequate flow, or extreme lighting.

Otherwise, green star polyp maintenance and upkeep are straightforward.

Dosing

Like other corals, green star polyps need available nutrients in the water column. They need nitrates, phosphates, magnesium, calcium, and a stable alkalinity for healthy growth and vibrant colors.

That being said, these soft corals do not need additional nutrients to be dosed other than what is introduced through feedings and fish waste. In fact, many hobbyists look to slow down green star polyp growth rather than speed it up.

Feeding

Many hobbyists choose not to feed their green star polyps as they get the majority of their food through photosynthesis, but they’ll definitely enjoy some supplemented foods every now and then.

For best results, use a powder or liquid food, like zooplankton; these corals are not able to take in larger foods through their mouths.

Best Phytoplankton

Algae Barn Ocean Magik

Best Phytoplankton

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Trimming And Algae

Green star polyps grow fast, and eventually, you will need to control that growth. Some hobbyists choose to frag these trimmings, though the supply might outweigh the demand.

These corals can be difficult to completely remove from a surface and will often grow back after some time. When you see green star polyps growing somewhere you don’t want them, simply scrape them off and dispose of them. Make sure you get all the pieces as they can reseed themselves elsewhere in the tank.

Another way to combat green star polyp growth is by shading it out with a larger object. This can affect other corals too if not carefully placed, but it is an effective way to deprive the coral of necessary light for growth.

At the same time, you will want to look out for algae growing on the mat of the coral. It is recommended to use a turkey baster weekly to gently remove any algae or debris that might be caught. If you notice that your green star polyps have been closed more than usual lately, it could be bothersome algae.

Reality of Keeping Green Star Polyps

Here is what life with GSP actually looks like: for the first few days after you place the frag, nothing happens. The coral stays closed, the purple mat looks a little blah, and you start second-guessing yourself. Then one morning the polyps open and the whole thing comes alive. When they’re extended in flow, they move like a field of grass in a breeze. It is one of the most dynamic visuals in reef keeping.

After that, the experience shifts to management. Every few months you will notice the mat creeping toward other rocks or corals. This is the part beginners underestimate. Turkey baster the mat weekly to keep algae from building up, and physically check the edges of the colony to make sure it hasn’t jumped to adjacent rock. If it does, you have a much bigger job ahead of you.

GSP rarely causes water quality issues. It does not have the same chemical warfare capabilities as some other soft corals. But it will physically smother everything it reaches. That is the reality.

What Are Good Tankmates?

Green star polyps can be kept with nearly everything, including not reef-safe species. Here’s how.

In theory, green star polyps can be kept with anything from clownfish and tangs to triggers and angels. This is due to the fact that this coral grows so incredibly fast. There is still the very real possibility that not reef-safe fish will eat green star polyps, but these corals are very likely to bounce right back and make up for what had been lost.

It should also be noted that green star polyps might not look as appetizing as other fleshy large polyp stony (LPS) corals, so some coral-hungry fish might leave it alone. If you find yourself with a fish that eats everything you put into the tank but you’re still determined to have corals, then get an inexpensive frag of green star polyps and try your luck.

Fragging

It should come as no surprise that green star polyps are incredibly easy to frag. The hardest part will be separating the pieces from the rock.

In order to frag green star polyps, first, find a manageable side of the rock where the mat will be easy to separate. If you can’t find a good place to cut, then choose the best spot and use a scissor, scalpel, or razor blade to cut through and detach the piece from the rock.

For the most part, it doesn’t matter how big or small of a piece you frag as it will quickly recover and start growing. Simply attach the frag to a frag plug with superglue (cyanoacrylate). You may dip this frag in iodine or a special coral mix, but this is not necessary.

Place the frag towards the bottom of the reef tank. The polyps should start to open in a few days, though these corals can be temperamental after handling. Do not worry as they can survive a couple of weeks of being retracted.

As mentioned before, your green star polyps may grow too quickly for how much fragging you can manage. These excess corals can be moved to the sump to help with nutrient exportation, given to another hobbyist, or disposed of correctly. If you want a video tutorial, you can check out the video below by OceanStateAquaticsTV.

How Long Does It Take For Them To Spread?

Green star polyps can cover a rock in a matter of months. Growth may be slow initially and your coral might not even open for a few days when you first introduce it into the reef tank.

If conditions are right though, you will have new growth almost every day. This can be seen on the edges of the mat, where the flesh is light purple or white instead of the dark reddish-purple of the rest of the colony.

If you find that your green star polyps aren’t opening, try to keep conditions stable. You will want to move them around to new areas of the tank for better flow or lighting, but it is best to leave them where they are until they open. If you see algae starting to grow on top of the mat, gently waft away or turkey baster the algae off.

At the same time, make sure there are available nutrients in the water column. It is not unheard of for green star polyps to not open when sufficient nutrients aren’t available.

Should You Get Green Star Polyps?

Good fit if:

• You are new to reef keeping and want a high-success first coral
• You want movement and color without demanding water chemistry
• You have a dedicated rock or back wall where it can spread freely
• You are okay with regular trimming every few months
• You want a coral that can actually survive if a fish picks at it

Avoid if:

• You have a tightly packed reef with corals already touching each other
• You are not willing to trim or contain it on a regular basis
• You plan to keep it next to zoanthids, favia, or other encrusting corals without separation
• You want a set-and-forget coral that stays in one spot (GSP is not that coral)

Where To Buy

Green star polyps are widely available through online coral vendors. I recommend checking the following trusted suppliers:

• Flip Aquatics (flipaquatics.com) – regularly carries GSP frags, aquacultured, with live arrival guarantee
• Dan’s Fish (dansfish.com) – good source for reef starter frags including GSP

Local hobbyist groups and reef clubs are also excellent sources, often with free or low-cost frags from established colonies.

Closing Thoughts

Green star polyps are one of the best corals and one of the worst corals. They offer vibrant colors and exciting movement to all levels of the aquarium, but they can easily outcompete other species and be extremely difficult to remove once introduced to the tank.

They are one of the best beginner corals due to their resilience and relatively low care requirements, but can also make a beautiful backdrop or lawn for more intricate setups.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide — your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.