Author: Mark Valderrama

  • Bristle Worm in Reef Tank โ€“ Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide)

    Bristle Worm in Reef Tank โ€“ Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide)

    Bristle worms are not pests. They are scavengers that eat detritus and leftover food. Most reef keepers panic when they see one. Bristle worms are part of a healthy cleanup crew. The only ones worth removing are the large fireworms, and those are uncommon.

    Stop trying to remove bristle worms. They are doing you a favor.

    Stop trying to remove bristle worms. They are doing you a favor.

    Table of Contents

    The Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) is a nano tank specialist that rewards patient, detail-oriented keepers. This is not a fish you throw in a community tank and forget about. After years of keeping micro species, I know what this fish actually needs to show its best colors and behavior.

    In a nano tank, every detail matters. There is no room for shortcuts.

    Keeping Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) long-term requires consistent water quality, proper diet, and a tank that meets their specific needs. This is not a set-and-forget species.

    When kept right, the Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) is one of those fish that makes the entire hobby worth it.

    Bristle worms are one of those reef tank surprises that almost every reefer encounters sooner or later. I certainly did when I set up my 125-gallon reef. The first time I spotted one under the rocks at night, I wasn’t sure whether to panic or leave it alone. After 25 years in the hobby, I’ve come to appreciate that these guys are often more beneficial than harmful, but there are exceptions. This guide covers everything you need to know about identifying bristle worms in your tank and deciding whether to remove them.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Bristle Worm in Reef Tank. Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide)

    Most guides will tell you the bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) is “moderate” to keep. That’s technically true, but it glosses over the fact that these fish need stable, consistent conditions. They don’t handle swings well. Stability is more important than hitting a perfect number. Water quality is the other thing that gets downplayed. In my experience, these fish do best with frequent, smaller water changes rather than large, infrequent ones. Consistency is the key word here. Acclimation is also critical. A quick float and dump works fine for hardy species, but for bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide)s, I always recommend a slow drip acclimation of at least 30 to 45 minutes.

    The Reality of Keeping Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide)

    This species has specific needs most generic guides skip. The Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) does not thrive in average community conditions. It needs targeted water parameters, the right diet, and compatible tank mates. Half-measures lead to chronic stress and shortened lifespans.

    Observation is your best tool. Watch this fish daily. Changes in color, activity level, or feeding response tell you more about water quality and health than any test kit alone.

    Long-term success requires consistency. Regular maintenance, stable parameters, and a consistent feeding schedule are the foundation of keeping the Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) healthy for years.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Treating this fish like a generic community species. The Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) has specific requirements that differ from the typical tropical fish setup. Ignoring those differences leads to problems within the first few months.

    Expert Take

    After 25 years of keeping Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide), the single most important factor is consistency. Stable parameters, regular feeding, and a maintenance schedule you actually follow matter more than any piece of equipment.

    What Are Bristle Worms?

    Bristle worms are one of the most common ‘pests’ to come across in reef aquariums though many hobbyists see them as essential cleanup crew members (featured image source).

    Scientifically, bristle worms are members of the Polychaeta class. With over 10,000 species under this taxonomic categorization, most members have segmented bodies with parapodia that grow chaetae made from chitin. In simple terms, these worms grow bristles on the sides of their body (earning them their name), though some species lack them.

    Polychaetes have perfectly adapted to a variety of aquatic environments with some being found in the coldest regions of the ocean and some in the hottest, like the Pompeii worm (Alvinella pompejana) that is found at extreme pressures and temperatures around hydrothermal vents. These worms use these bristles as protection from being eaten by predators and to sometimes help circulate water in and out of tubes; these bristles may be venomous for further protection.

    In the wild, these worms greatly help with the decomposition of organic matter. However, they can also take part in commensalism relationships where the worm benefits but does not harm the other organism as well as parasitism where the worm benefits and harms the other organism.

    Almost unbelievably, bobbit worms (Eunice aphroditois) can grow to be almost 10 feet long with other species of Polychaete growing to all sizes under that. Luckily, bristle worm species in the aquarium hobby stay under 4 inches and are much tamer than their wild counterparts.

    Classification

    PhylumAnnelida
    ClassPolychaeta
    OrderEunicida / Phyllodocida
    FamilyVarious (Amphinomidae, Eunicidae, etc.)
    Common NameBristle Worm

    Bristle Worms in the Aquarium

    When you first see a bristle worm in your fish tank, you may feel the sudden urge to tear down your tank and heavily sanitize–yes, these creatures is scary to see at first especially if you’re not familiar with their existence.

    For the most part, bristle worms are not visible in the aquarium and will stay hidden. There are a few times you might see your bristle worms emerge though:

    1. During feedings. Bristle worms are scavengers and are quickly alerted to any food that becomes available in the water column. If you ever want to check the health of your bristle worm population, simply add some fish food to the tank and watch as they slither out of their cracks and crevices.
    2. During saltwater tank maintenance. If using a filter sock or other sponge media, you are bound to catch some bristle worms. For the most part, you can leave them alone. However, you will want to be careful during maintenance periods when handling that media as you can hit them with your hand; aquarium gloves would prevent most bristle worm encounters from happening.
    3. During decomposition. As mentioned before, bristle worms are excellent members of the reef tank cleanup crew. They are attracted to decaying matter and will be one of the first on the scene to take advantage of uneaten food or a dead fish or invertebrate.
    4. During the night. Bristle worms are largely nocturnal and will become most active and present when the tank lights are out.

    Bristle worm populations directly correlate to the abundance of food in the tank; more available food equals larger populations of bristle worms and vice versa.

    While there isn’t ever a thing as having too many bristle worms in your reef tank, they can definitely start to become unsightly over time; some more advantageous types of bristle worms might even start to steal food from fish and corals if food supplies become limited.

    It should be noted that there have been some claims of bristle worms injuring or killing fish. Though these claims are few and far in between, it’s not impossible.

    If keeping sand-dwelling fish, like gobies, it is also possible for your fish to get pricked by a bristle worm. Bristle worm-hungry fish, like wrasses, may get stabbed around their mouths while eating. These injuries will eventually heal and there is no reason to worry, however, keep an eye out for any signs of infection.

    How Do They Enter the Aquarium?

    Bristle worms enter the aquarium just as any other hitchhiker does: through objects moved between tanks.

    One of the most common ways to introduce a bristle worm into the aquarium is through live rock. These worms have the incredible capability to burrow themselves into the deepest parts of live rock where they can’t be reached.

    In the same way, bristle worms can come in on frags plugs and skeletons of coral (like LPS corals) as well as substrate or filter media that was previously used in another saltwater tank. Though less likely, some bristle worm species reproduce by releasing eggs and sperm into the water column that eventually become free-swimming larvae. Both eggs and larvae could possibly be transferred via water.

    Once in the aquarium, your bristle worms will continue to reproduce in this way in relationship to the amount of food available. Some species may also reproduce asexually.

    What Do They Do in the Aquarium?

    Besides looking somewhat scary, what do bristle worms actually do, and are they worth keeping in your reef tank?

    The short answer is yes. Bristle worms are one of the most beneficial hitchhikers that is introduced into your tank as long as they are the right kind. These worms are natural detritivores that clean up the various waste and detritus that are created in the aquarium; some species is omnivorous.

    For the most part, bristle worms stay in the substrate or in the live rock. Like terrestrial worms in the soil, they can help aerate substrate in order to prevent nitrate buildup. Shuffling the substrate can also help algae from forming on the surface and make vacuuming easier. Inside of the live rock, bristle worms can clean hard-to-reach places and help dead zones from collecting waste.

    Overall, bristle worms are a helpful, abundant, and often free member of the tank clean up crew that does not need to be removed or monitored. However, if you’re dealing with anything other than your typical bristle worm, there is some cause for concern.

    Types

    Though all bristle worms might look the same, they’re lumped into two categories in the aquarium hobby: good (harmless) and bad (harmful).

    With so many species–and so many still unknown–it is very difficult or even impossible to assign an exact scientific name to the type you have. It is very likely that you end up with more than one species in your reef tank anyway, so a broader categorization is better.

    The Good Guys

    Bristle Worm Upclose

    Most bristle worms are beneficial and look the same (picture source). They are light red to pink. There is a darker section of their body which is food being digested. These worms have clear or white bristles on either side of their flat body and stay under 3-4 inches long.

    The Bad Guys

    In general, bad bristle worms are any that deviate from this ‘common’ bristle worm appearance. This can mean deeper intensities of pinks and reds, striping, or differences in size; experienced keepers remove any worms they see that have breached the 4 inch mark, though this does not necessarily mean that they are a harmful species.

    The bigger concern with larger bristle worms is that they can start to produce significant amounts of bioload and possibly eat or injure fish and invertebrates. Most of all, they are an unsightly member of the tank system.

    On the other hand, there are a few species of bristle worm that are known to be bad through and through. This includes members from the Eunicidae family and fireworms.

    Eunicid Worms

    Eunicids are pretty easy to identify. These dark red or black worms are considerably larger and rounder than common bristles, with some growing in excess of 10 inches, like the bobbit worm.

    Their most defining feature is their antennae which surround their feeding structure. These can clearly be seen poking out from rockwork or the substrate. Otherwise, they have thinner and more separated bristles than regular bristle worms.

    Though some reef tank owners allow smaller eunicid worms to keep their tanks clean, larger individuals have been known to go after fish and corals. As a result, many hobbyists try to remove them as soon as possible.

    Fireworms

    Fireworm

    When researching saltwater aquarium bristle worms, one of the first things that will come up is a fireworm. These worms are one of the worst hitchhikers that could enter your system as they have highly irritable bristles that can cause severe pain and discomfort; it is strongly believed that some species of fireworm are venomous.

    These worms are named after their bright white bristles that are sometimes puffy-looking and fiery sting. Fireworms are thicker, longer, and much more ornate than regular bristle worms. They can feature dark reds and browns. If your bristle worm looks dangerous, it is probably a fireworm.

    There are over 120 different species of fireworm, though they’re not incredibly common to come across in the reef aquarium. One of the most common species to come across is the bearded fireworm (Hermodice carunculata).

    Though these worms can inflict serious pain, they are not deadly to humans or fish. If you suspect that you have a fireworm in your tank, use thick gloves and/or remove it from your tank immediately.

    What Happens If You’re Stung By A Fireworm?

    Fireworm stings aren’t very common, but if you happen to get stung by one, you’ll want to know what to do.

    Fireworm stings are painful and you’ll know right away that something has happened. Though, in an aquarium, there are many things that could possibly hurt you so closer examination is needed.

    First, look at the affected area. Most times, you’ll be able to see the bristles in the skin. These bristles should first be removed with tweezers or adhesive tape. Isopropyl alcohol and vinegar may be applied to the area; the isopropyl alcohol will help prevent infection while the vinegar will dissolve any remaining bristles. Ibuprofen may be taken for the pain.

    Common symptoms of a fireworm sting are localized burning sensations, bumpy skin, irritation, and blotchiness. In extreme cases, the person may experience dizziness and nausea and medical assistance is recommended.

    If mild symptoms continue, hydrocortisone may be applied over the following days. If infection starts, I recommend you seek medical attention and start a course of antibiotics.

    Bobbit Worm (The Nightmare)

    The scariest bristle worm that you will ever come across would be the bobbit worm. They are known as the nightmare of saltwater fish tanks. These predators can grow as long as 10 feet and will readily eat fish in your aquarium. They often times will be hidden for a long time and the aquarist will wonder why their fish keep disappearing. They will hitchhike on live rock and considered one of the major pests you can get from them. Want to be scared? Check out this video below by Smithsonian Channel.

    https://youtu.be/K_7ByiYbCYM

    How to Get Rid of Worms

    If you really can’t stand the look of bristle worms, then you’ll want to get them out of your tank as soon as possible.

    Luckily, there are a few ways to get rid of bristle worms safely and with little to no additional work. Here are some of the best options for eliminating or controlling bristle worm populations.

    Traps

    There are many bristle worm traps commercially available that are specifically made for catching bristle worms. Simply place this trap in your tank with some food loaded and you should catch a good amount of worms at a time; these traps are designed so that the bristle worms can easily enter but cannot exit.

    There are also some DIY alternatives. One of the methods for making a bristle worm trap is by using a bottle or a piece of PVC piping. If using piping, make sure that both sides are sealed.

    First, cut form-fitting holes along the sides of the bottle or pipe. Angle straws or another cylindrical plastic tube pointing down towards the sand bed; you may create as many of these entryways as you want. Place some food inside, submerge overnight, and remove the bristle worms the following morning.

    Manual Removal

    In addition to traps, you may try manually remove bristle worms from your aquarium. This is much more time-consuming but can deal with any stragglers that might refuse to go in a trap.

    Basically, use tongs to remove any bristle worms you see at any given moment. These worms are surprisingly fast and will react to changes in light, like the shadow from an incoming hand, so make sure to be fast with your movements.

    Experienced keepers even lure bristle worms out by attaching food to the end of the tongs and picking up any that make their way out. There is no wrong way to catch them, though it is recommended to wear protective gloves if working up close to them.

    Natural Predators

    If you have a large enough aquarium and want to add another fish or invertebrate but also want to get rid of your bristle worm problem, then there are also a few livestock options.

    Arrow Crabs (Stenorhynchus seticornis)

    Arrow crabs are one of the best invertebrate solutions for controlling bristle worm populations. These crabs is scavengers or active predators and will gladly eat any bristle worm they come across.

    However, these crabs aren’t 100% reef-safe. They have been known to pick at corals and even other slow invertebrates and fish. They will not take care of any algae in the tank and heavily rely on meatier foods for sustenance.

    If wanting to keep an arrow crab in the aquarium, then tank mates should be considered carefully; there should be nothing that your crab could accidentally eat and there should be nothing that could accidentally eat your crab!

    Wrasses

    Yellow Coris Wrasse

    Wrasses are one of the best fish to add to your aquarium if you’re having a bristle worm explosion. These fish are active and colorful and have a big appetite for worms.

    Wrasses can differ in size and behavior, so it’s important to check if your fish is compatible with your setup before adding it to your tank. Here are some of the best wrasse species to get rid of your bristle worm problem:

    • Six Line Wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia) – maximum size of 3 inches; minimum tank size of 55 gallons
    • Pink-streaked wrasse (Pseudocheilinops ataenia) – maximum size of 2.5 inches; minimum tank size of 15 gallons
    • Red coris wrasse (Coris gaimard) – maximum size of 15 inches; minimum tank size of 125 gallons
    • Melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus) – maximum size of 4.5 inches; minimum tank size of 50 gallons
    • Yellow coris wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) – maximum size of 4.5 inches; minimum tank size of 50 gallons

    Apart from wrasses, there are a few other fish species that could help control bristle worm populations in your aquarium. Some of these options include goatfish (Mullidae family), butterflyfish (Chaetodontidae family), and gobies (Gobiidae family).

    What To Do With Unwanted Worms

    If you’ve chosen to use a trap or manually remove your bristle worms, you’ll find yourself wondering what to do with them. There are three options you have for dealing with unwanted bristle worms:

    1. Sell/give them away to another hobbyist. Believe it or not, bristle worms are in high demand. They’re one of the best cleanup crew members and experienced keepers haven’t been fortunate enough to have them come in on their rock. Ask local hobbyists and fish stores if they’re interested in taking them off your hands.
    2. Put them in your sump. If you have sump filtration, underneath the tank is the perfect spot for your worms. They will continue to clean just as well, but out of sight from your main display. It is very possible that some will make their way back up through the plumbing, but this is controlled with a natural predator or regular removal.
    3. Dispose of them. If you have no other option, then humanely killing the bristle worms is the best method of disposal. You can place them in freshwater, hydrogen peroxide, or a coral dip that specifically targets invertebrates.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are bristle worms harmful to fish?

    Most bristle worms are harmless scavengers that actually benefit your reef tank by eating detritus, leftover food, and decaying organic matter. The common bristle worm will not attack healthy fish or corals. The exception is the fireworm, which is predatory and should be removed.

    Should I remove bristle worms from my reef tank?

    , no. Common bristle worms are beneficial members of your cleanup crew. They help process waste and keep the sand bed clean. Only remove them if you have an overpopulation problem or if you have identified fireworms, which are the harmful variety.

    How did bristle worms get in my tank?

    Bristle worms almost always hitchhike into your tank on live rock. They are nocturnal and can hide in tiny crevices, so they often go unnoticed for weeks or months. Finding one or two is completely normal and not cause for concern.

    What eats bristle worms in a reef tank?

    Several fish and invertebrates prey on bristle worms. Arrow crabs, coral banded shrimp, and certain wrasses like the six line wrasse and melanurus wrasse are effective natural predators. Traps can also be used to reduce populations.

    How big can bristle worms get?

    Common bristle worms in reef tanks stay between 1 to 6 inches, but some species can grow much larger if food is plentiful. Fireworms can reach over 12 inches. Large populations indicate overfeeding, so adjusting your feeding schedule can help control their numbers.

    Is the Bristle Worm in Reef Tank. Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) Right for You?

    Before you add a bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • Your tank size meets or exceeds the minimum recommendation. More space is always better.
    • You can maintain stable water parameters with regular water changes and testing.
    • Your existing tank mates are compatible. Research before adding, not after.
    • You’re committed to feeding a varied, species-appropriate diet.
    • You understand the lifespan commitment. This isn’t a short-term pet.
    • You have the time for regular maintenance. Healthy fish need consistent care, not occasional attention.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Bristle Worm in Reef Tank. Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) Compares to Similar Species

    Want an easy community fish? This is not it. Want a species that rewards dedicated care? The Bristle Worm in Reef Tank to Friend or Foe? (Complete Guide) delivers if you put in the work.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the bristle worm in reef tank. Friend or foe? (complete guide) needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    While bristle worms might not be the prettiest aspect of your saltwater aquarium, they are one of the best live rock hitchhikers that and can come on coral frags. Like other hitchhikers, there are good and bad species, though the bad ones are easy to remove by hand or with a natural predator; if handling, always use proper safety equipment.

    Otherwise, bristle worm populations will sustain themselves based on the amount of food available in the aquarium. Smaller ones will not affect fish or corals, though larger ones should be removed in order to prevent possible injury.

  • Frontosa Cichlid Care – A How To Guide

    Frontosa Cichlid Care – A How To Guide

    Frontosa cichlids are one of the most impressive fish you can keep in a large freshwater tank. That nuchal hump and bold striping make them look like something prehistoric. I’ve seen well-kept frontosas become genuine showstoppers that stop visitors in their tracks. They’re slower moving and more peaceful than most cichlids their size, but they do need significant space and appropriate tank mates from Lake Tanganyika.

    The Reality of Keeping Frontosa Cichlid

    Frontosas are not difficult fish. They are demanding fish. The difference matters.

    They need a huge tank. A group of frontosas needs 125 gallons minimum, and 180 or larger is better. These are 12 to 14 inch fish that live in groups. A 75-gallon tank is not enough no matter what the fish store says.

    Growth is painfully slow. Frontosas take 3 to 5 years to reach full adult size and coloration. The nuchal hump develops gradually. If you want instant gratification, this is the wrong fish. You are investing years before you see the payoff.

    Lake Tanganyika water is mandatory. Hard, alkaline water with a pH of 7.8 to 8.6 and high mineral content. If your tap water is soft and acidic, you need to buffer every water change. There is no faking Tanganyika chemistry.

    They are nocturnal predators. In the wild, frontosas hunt sleeping fish in the dark at depths over 100 feet. In the aquarium, they are most active at dawn and dusk. Do not keep them with small fish. Anything that fits in their mouth becomes food.

    Biggest Mistake New Frontosa Cichlid Owners Make

    Keeping them in a tank that is too small. A single frontosa in a 55-gallon tank looks fine for a year. Then it keeps growing, and growing, and the tank that looked adequate becomes a prison. Frontosas need to be kept in groups of 6 or more, and each fish reaches over a foot long. Plan for the adult size from day one, or you will be scrambling for a bigger tank within two years.

    Expert Take

    Frontosas reward patience like no other fish in the hobby. A mature group in a large tank with proper Tanganyika conditions is one of the most impressive freshwater displays you will ever see. The bold black and white striping, the imposing hump, the dignified slow movement. But getting there takes years of committed care. This is a fish for people who think in decades, not months.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCyphotilapia frontosa, Cyphotilapia gibberosa, Paratilapia frontosa, Pelmatochromis frontosus
    Common NamesFrontosa Cichlid, Frontosa, Humphead Cichlid, Front Cichlid, Tanganyika Humphead Cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginLake Tanganyika, East Africa
    DietCarnivorous, piscivorous
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityLow
    Lifespan15+ years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size75 Gallons
    Temperature Range72 – 82ยฐ F
    KH10-20
    pH Range7.8 to 8.2
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingMouth brooder
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityCompatible with some other rift valley lake cichlids and other large peaceful fish
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Compatible with some plants

    Origins and Habitat

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is endemic to the waters of Lake Tanganyika in the region of East Africa, which means that is the only place in the world where it occurs naturally. This massive rift lake is shared by the African countries of Zambia, The Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), Tanzania, and Burundi.

    These fish live in surprisingly deep water compared with most species in the hobby and are usually found at depths of greater than 50ft, but even down to over 300 ft, although they do move towards the surface to hunt.

    At these depths, aquatic plants don’t get enough light to grow so their environment is pretty bare. The habitat where they live consists of rocky areas, with patches of open sand between boulders at the lake bottom.

    Scientists have determined that there are more than one species of Frontosa Cichlid. The 2 best-known species are Cyphotilapia frontosa from the north of the lake, and C. Gibberosa, which is found in the south1.

    What Does the Frontosa Cichlid Look like?

    What Does The Frontosa Cichlid Look Like

    Cyphotilapia frontosa is a large and boldly patterned African cichlid species. One of the most characteristic and recognizable features of this popular fish species is the large hump that mature fish develop on their forehead.

    The hump on the forehead is actually an extension of the dorsal muscles. Both the male and female Frontosa cichlids grow this hump, but it does grow larger in older, dominant males.

    A male frontosa will also grow bigger than females and their pelvic, anal and dorsal fins grow longer with age. Apart from these differences, the male and female look very similar. Juveniles of both male and female Frontosa Cichlids look identical.

    These fish have 5-7 broad, black vertical bars on the sides of their bodies. The body color is white, blue, or sometimes yellowish. The fins are a beautiful light blue color.

    Interestingly, the body color and brightness of these fish can change depending on their mood. Dominant and stressed fish are often a darker color, while males that are ready to spawn will display brighter blue coloration.

    The physical differences between Cyphotilapia frontosa and Cyphotilapia gibberosa are not all that easy to see and consist mostly of differences in the number of scale rows and the proportions of the body and fins.

    There are many different color variants available. These different variants are usually the result of populations from isolated regions in the lake developing distinct colors and markings, although some have been developed in the hobby.

    Some popular variants of Cyphotilapia frontosa and C. Gibberosa include:

    • Burundi Six-stripe Frontosa
    • Zaire Blue frontosa/ Blue Zaire
    • Zambian Blue Frontosa/ Blue Face Frontosa
    • Red Frontosa
    • Tanzanian 7-stripe Frontosa

    Frontosa cichlids are slow growing, long lived predators that need patience most hobbyists do not have. They need massive tanks, stable water chemistry, and years before they show their full potential. Rushing this fish into an undersized setup or unstable tank will stunt growth and shorten a lifespan that should reach 25 years. This is a commitment fish, not a showpiece you add on impulse.

    The Reality of Keeping Frontosa Cichlid Care

    This is not a beginner cichlid. Frontosa Cichlid Care requires specific conditions that casual keepers rarely maintain long-term.

    Water chemistry is non-negotiable. The parameters this species needs are precise. Close enough is not good enough.

    The reward matches the effort. A properly kept Frontosa Cichlid Care is one of the most impressive fish in the hobby. But you earn that result.

    Biggest Mistake New Frontosa Cichlid Care Owners Make

    Treating it like a standard cichlid. Frontosa Cichlid Care has requirements that go beyond basic cichlid care. Generic advice leads to generic failures with this species.

    Expert Take

    Frontosa Cichlid Care is for the keeper who has already succeeded with easier species and wants a real challenge. The payoff is worth it, but only if the fundamentals are already second nature.

    What Is Their Eating Habit?

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is a piscivorous fish species which means they feed on other smaller fish in nature. Frontosas are ambush hunters that rely more on stealth than speed to catch their prey. They also feed on shellfish and other aquatic organisms and are thought to eat some algae and plant matter sometimes as well.

    In the home aquarium, Cyphotilapia frontosa should be fed a balanced diet that is rich in proteins. A high-quality cichlid pellet is the best choice for their regular diet, although juvenile fish will find flake food easier to manage. Ron’s Cichlid food is a great choice as a staple in a cichlid diet.

    Great Balanced Food
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    Other supplementary food options include:

    • Fresh or frozen fish like tilapia. Avoid processed fish products.
    • Bloodworms
    • Brine shrimp
    • Krill
    • Mosquito larvae
    • Mussel meat
    • Occasional vegetable matter like spinach, kale, chopped peas, or spirulina algae wafers

    Even though it may be more convenient, aquarists should avoid feeding bird or mammal meat as these fish are not adapted to digest these forms of protein. Live fish such as feeder fish is fed, but should be avoid as they can spread disease in the aquarium.

    Can They Live Alone?

    It is not recommended to keep Frontosa Cichlids alone. Cyphotilapia frontosa is a social species of fish that can be found in groups of over 1000 individuals in their natural lake habitat.

    Wherever possible, it’s always best to provide your fish with the kind of living conditions they have in nature. This doesn’t only apply to things like water chemistry and flow but also to natural behaviors. They will be most happy if kept in a group where they can display their natural behaviors, and they will probably be more interesting pets for the same reason.

    In the home aquarium setting, it is best to keep a minimum of 6-8 individuals to reduce aggression. The ideal ratio would be 1 male to 6 females.

    That being said, if you really want a Burundi Frontosa Cichlid but you can’t keep the recommended number of individuals, it would be better to keep just one with some other compatible fish. That way you can avoid aggression in a group that is too small.

    How Big Can They Grow? What Tank Size Is Right for Them?

    Although these fish are usually bought as juveniles in the fish store at just 1.5 to 4 inches long, when fully grown they are large African rift lake cichlids that can grow longer than 12 inches.

    Males can reach a maximum of about 13 inches while females are smaller, growing to about 10 inches long. Although juveniles is kept in a 75-gallon aquarium, a group is best kept in a much larger aquarium size of around 150 gallons.

    Fortunately, they are slow-growing fish, so you can definitely start out with a 75 gallon, provided you can commit to upgrading when the time comes. Of course, it is better to start out with the right size aquarium from the beginning though.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is a large slow-growing species, and so it comes as no surprise that they are a long-lived fish species. Frontosas kept in the right aquarium environment, with the right care, can easily live 15 years.

    Some specimens even live for longer than 25 years. For this reason, keeping these fish should definitely be looked at as a long-term commitment.

    Are They Aggressive?

    These fish are classed as semi-aggressive cichlids. This is a little confusing because, on the one hand, you’ll hear about some keepers having problems with aggression, while others describe them as really calm, peaceful fish.

    The key to preventing aggression is to keep these fish in a big enough tank and to keep the right number of individuals.

    They are carnivorous animals that eat other fish in nature, so you shouldn’t be surprised to learn that they will eat other smaller fish in your home aquarium too. The obvious way to prevent this problem is to keep them only with other similarly sized and equally non-aggressive fish.

    As a species, Frontosa Cichlids are not very active, and relatively speaking, they are very peaceful for a cichlid. These fish have a social dominance structure with a dominant male and subordinate males and females. In a larger aquarium, more than one alpha can occur and the pecking order is more complex.

    How Much Do They Cost?

    The price of the Burundi Frontosa Cichlid can vary tremendously depending on the variant and purchase size of the fish. Another important pricing factor is whether the specimen was wild-caught in Lake Tanganyika or tank-bred.

    You can usually expect to pay between $20 and $40 for a small, tank-bred specimen. Wild-caught fish are of course far more expensive and difficult to find.

    Tank Requirements (Care)

    Although Frontosas are fairly easy cichlids to care for, they do have some pretty important aquarium requirements that have to be met. These are not small fish so you will need to be sure you have enough space to house them.

    You’ll also need enough time to keep up with regular water changes, and enough funds to buy a good quality filtration system and good quality nutrition to keep them healthy in the long term.

    Let’s take a closer look at what you’ll need to keep these awesome cichlids.

    Filtration and Water Quality

    As with all the rift valley lake cichlids from Africa, these fish prefer alkaline water chemistry with a high pH of up to about 9. The vast majority of Cyphotilapia frontosa available in the aquarium trade are farmed, however, and have become acclimated to lower pH water conditions.

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid needs excellent water quality so it is important to provide excellent filtration and keep up with weekly partial water changes. An external canister filter, sump system, or both are recommended.

    This cichlid is adapted to a lake environment where there is usually little water flow and current so they will do best in aquariums with a lower flow rate. If you have a power filter, you can reduce the flow in your tank by aiming the outflow upwards towards the water surface.

    Your aquarium must be fully cycled before introducing these fish so that the water parameters stay stable and you don’t get any dangerous spikes in ammonia and nitrite levels.

    A weekly 25-50% water change is recommended and the new water added to your tank should be treated with a water conditioner to make it fish safe. Regular vacuuming of the gravel or substrate in your tank is also important for maintaining great quality water.

    Tank Environment

    Frontosa Cichlid with Live Plants

    A rocky habitat with low light will most closely recreate the habitat this African cichlid prefers in the waters of Lake Tanganyika. Make sure to provide plenty of hiding spaces, with at least one for each individual fish.

    Aquarium rocks is arranged to create caves but make sure they are stable for the safety of your fish. Alternatively, old flowerpots make great shelters and can even be used as a breeding site. Use smooth rocks or pots without sharp edges that could damage your fish’s fins though.

    Whatever you use to create shelters in your aquarium, make sure some are large enough to accommodate the dominant male and some are not large enough to accommodate him so that subordinate fish will always have a place to hide if necessary.

    A deep tank is best because this will provide your fish with plenty of swimming space. Crushed coral sand or aragonite makes the best aquarium substrates because they help to maintain the high pH and water hardness that rift valley cichlids prefer. Alternatively, you can use sand or gravel as a substrate.

    Live Plants

    Being a relatively deep water fish species, these cichlids are happy to live in an environment without plants. That being said, it is possible to keep the Burundi Frontosa cichlid in a planted tank. One important point to remember is that Frontosa Cichlids should not be kept in bright light environments and this rules out most plant species.

    Low light aquarium plants like Java Ferns and Anubias that are not rooted, but rather grown attached to aquarium driftwood or rocks are your best bet here. So all in all, Frontosas are not ideal for planted tanks, but it’s not impossible to keep both.

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    Tank Mates

    The best tank mates for Frontosas are other peaceful African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika. This is mostly because these fish enjoy the same water conditions. Other fish like Malawi cichlids can also make great tank mates though.

    These fish are piscivorous, which means they feed on smaller fish species in nature. Even if you provide them with high-quality commercial fish food, they will not pass up the opportunity to snack on small fish or inverts so be careful about introducing other fish that are not of a similar size.

    Another point to consider is that Frontosas are very slow growers, so juveniles is outgrown by their tank mates if they are all stocked at the same time.

    Some good tank mates for Cyphotilapia frontosa include:

    How To Breed

    Breeding fish is a post in itself and the Frontosa is no exception. However, the video below from Ricky Kenerly Cichlids is a great overview on how to breed these fish.

    • Fish need to be at least 2-3 years old (They take a while to reach sexual maturity)
    • Stable pH (7.7 – 8.5)
    • Use sandy substrate (for nest building)
    • Diet – be solid on your diet plan. See diet info earlier in the post
    • Focus on smaller water changes to lower stress on your fish
    • Use at least a 55 gallon breeding tank for breeding pairs

    Check it the full video below:

    FAQs

    Are they aggressive?

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid is a pretty peaceful fish by cichlid standards. They are usually not aggressive unless they are kept in an aquarium that is too small or kept in groups of less than 6 individuals.

    Why are they so expensive?

    The main reason for the high price of Frontosas is their slow growth rate and the fact that they are only ready to breed at the age of 3 or 4 years. This makes breeding these fish a pretty expensive process and therefore the fish need to be sold at a high price to cover costs.

    What fish can you put with them?

    The best tank mates for Cyphotilapia frontosa are other freshwater fish from Lake Tanganyika since they prefer the same water parameters. Some Malawi cichlids are also compatible with Frontosas.

    Are they hardy?

    Although the Burundi Frontosa Cichlid may look tough and robust, they do need excellent quality water and the right environment or they can be susceptible to health problems.

    How big do they get?

    Cyphotilapia frontosa is a large aquarium fish. This species can reach a length of about 13 inches, although they are slow-growing and take many years to reach their full size.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Frontosa Cichlid

    Frontosas move like they own the tank. There is no darting, no frantic swimming, no panic. They glide. A group of adult frontosas cruising through a large tank has a presence that no other freshwater fish matches. Visitors who have never cared about fish stop and stare. The bold black and white striping and the massive head hump make them look prehistoric, and that impression only gets stronger as they grow.

    Feeding time is the only time they move with any urgency, and even then it is more of a determined approach than a sprint. They take food with deliberate precision. Watching a 12-inch frontosa cruise over and inhale a chunk of krill is satisfying in a way that watching a school of tetras chase flakes never will be.

    The long game is the hardest part. You buy juveniles that look like undersized, plain striped fish with no hump. For two or three years, you wait. You feed them, maintain their water, and wonder when the transformation will happen. Then slowly, the hump grows, the body fills out, the presence develops. By year five, you have a fish that commands respect from across the room. That wait is what makes frontosas a fish for the patient.

    Final Words

    Frontosa reward patience. If you do not have it, pick a different fish.

    The Burundi Frontosa Cichlid, Cyphotilapia frontosa, is an outstanding aquarium fish that is fairly easy to keep, as long as you can provide it with the space and water quality it deserves. These large and beautiful fish are a firm favorite among aquarists and should be at the top of any fishkeeper’s wish list. Leave us a comment below if you have anything else you want to add about these amazing Aquatic creatures.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Cryptocoryne Wendtii Care – A How To Guide

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii Care – A How To Guide

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is one of the plants I keep coming back to in my planted tanks, and for good reason. it’s tough, beautiful, and works across a wide range of conditions. I’ve grown it in low-tech tanks with no CO2 and in high-tech setups, and it adapts well either way. The varied leaf colors depending on conditions make it one of the more interesting crypts to experiment with.

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is one of the best low-maintenance aquarium plants in the aquarium hobby. But what are proper Cryptocoryne Wendtii Care routines. This blog post is all about keeping them healthy and happy!

    They are a hardy and adaptable species that come in a wide variety of shapes and colors. These crypts do well under a range of lighting and with or without CO2, making them a great choice for both beginners and more advanced aquarists. Read on to learn more about growing and caring for these popular aquatic plants.

    A Brief Overview

    Scientific Name Cryptocoryne wendtii
    Common Names Wendt’s water trumpet, Wendt’s cryptocoryne, Wendt’s crypt, Sri Lanka Cryptocorynes
    Family Araceae
    Origin Sri Lanka, Asia
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting low-high, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, Midground & Background
    Flow Rate Low, Moderate
    Temperature Range 68. 82 F
    Height 4 – 14 inches
    pH Range 6.8. 7.2
    Propagation Runners, Division
    Growth Rate Slow, Moderate
    Feed Type Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement No

    Origins And Habitat

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is an aquatic plant that is native to the northern, western, and central parts of Sri Lanka in Asia. This species has also become established in Florida in the United States. In nature, they grow along shady streams and rivers, either fully submerged or on the banks.

    What Does It Look Like?

    What Does Cryptoryne Wendtii Look Like

    This aquarium plant has an attractive, rosette growth form. They are pretty variable in size and shape depending on location, variety, and lighting.

    The texture of the leaves varies from flattened to undulating margins and there are many different color variations. The leaves can be anything from deep green, through olive to brown. Some varieties even have white, golden yellow, pink, or red hues as well.

    These aquarium plants can grow from 4 inches to over a foot tall. The leaves are often held pretty flat over the substrate or the plants can develop a more upright shape.

    Cryptocoryne wendtii develops a large system of roots but they are not visible above the substrate.

    Placement And Lighting

    Cryptocoryne wendtii looks great in the aquascape, and how you place it will depend on which type you have and the dimensions of your aquarium. In a small tank, this species can take the place of stem plants and be used as a background plant. In a large setup, the smaller green varieties look great in the foreground.

    These crypts look great when planted in groups and some of the more interesting forms such as Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Gecko’ make a wonderful focal point in the midground.

    They are a popular choice for Dutch-style planted tanks as well as nature aquariums and are especially well suited to tropical Asian and Sri Lanka biotopes.

    Crypt Wendtii is an adaptable aquarium plant that grows well under low light and even high light. LED lights or fluorescent bulbs are both suitable. Just be sure to use a fluorescent bulb of the correct spectrum for healthy plant growth.

    Under stronger light, these aquarium plants will tend to take a more compact growth form and display better color.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Cryptocoryne wendtii can be kept with most peaceful and non-vegetarian freshwater fish species and invertebrates. Just make sure that all the plant and animal species you add to your tank do well in the same parameters before bringing them home.

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank

    Good Tank Mates

    Some good tank mates for Cryptocoryne wendtii include:

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Once planted, crypts do not like being uprooted and disturbed so avoid keeping large cichlid types like Oscars that shift the substrate as this may dislodge and damage the plants.

    These aquarium plants have been kept successfully with goldfish. Even though they are considered one of the better plants to keep with these fish, goldfish are notorious for damaging plants.

    Every new crypt owner panics when the leaves melt. That is normal. Crypt melt is not death. It is the plant adjusting. The ones who pull the plant out and throw it away are the ones who fail.

    Feeding (Fertilization)

    Crypts are root feeders, which means they will get most of the nutrients they need from a good-quality aquarium substrate. If you grow them in an inert medium like sand or washed gravel, however, you will need to feed these plants with root tabs.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Root tabs are capsules of slow-release aquarium fertilizers that are buried in the substrate at the root zone. Crypts are generally slow-growers that don’t need a huge amount of nutrients and therefore your root tabs will probably last a few months before you need to replace them. It is always best to follow the instructions of the specific product you’re using for best results though.

    Apart from supplying nutrients directly to the roots, these plants will also benefit from liquid water column fertilizers like APT Complete from time to time. A great time to dose these supplements is after your weekly water change.

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    CO2 Injection

    Co2 injection is not required for growing this hardy plant species. However, if you already run a planted aquarium with CO2, you can grow this plant in the same system and they will definitely benefit from it.

    A useful alternative to CO2 injection that could benefit these aquarium plants is a regular dose of a liquid carbon supplement like Seachem Excel.

    Types

    There are many great varieties of this popular plant with different color variations, leaf size, and texture of the leaves.

    • Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Green’ – This small variety reaches a very manageable size making it a great choice for smaller tanks. The green leaves often grow outwards, virtually flat on the ground, although the plant may reach about 6 inches tall and wide.
    • Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Brown’ – This popular form reaches about the same size as ‘green’ but features brown or mottled brown foliage with attractive wavy edges.
    • Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Pink’- This striking form produces bold pink foliage and makes a very interesting specimen. This type will show better color under good light and with added CO2.
    • Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Gecko’ – This very attractive form has bright foliage with wavy margins and red-brown markings.
    • Cryptocoryne wendtii ‘Florida Sunset’ – This colorful crypt features highly variable foliage that can be marked in pink, white or golden hues. Grow this form under stronger light to bring out its best colors.

    Care

    This crypt is a low-maintenance plant that is easy to grow and care for. The most important key to success is maintaining a stable environment. Let’s take a brief look at how to achieve this in the planted aquarium.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    This plant is adaptable to quite a wide variety of parameters. Like other crypts, they do very well in hard water, but can also be grown in soft water.

    This species prefers neutral water pH but will grow fine in weakly acidic to alkaline parameters. They can be grown in water temperatures between 68 and 82ยฐF, making them ideal plants for both cool water and tropical freshwater fish tanks.

    Water Quality

    This plant prefers good water quality, with stable parameters. Regular partial water changes are one of the most effective and important ways to maintain good water quality. Source water is also a consideration. Hard water can be problematic for plants like crypt wendtii. If you have have really hard source water, you may want to consider an RO system.

    The frequency and volume of your water changes will vary depending on the size and on how heavily stocked your aquarium is. In lightly stocked aquariums with good filtration, a 15-20% water change every week is recommended. Planted tanks with aquascapes tend to lean on changes of up to 50% due to keep their tanks purposely overdosed with fertilizers.

    Filtration 

    Adequate filtration is another vital part of maintaining good water quality in planted aquariums. Contrary to popular belief, filters not only clean the water of physical particles but are also essential for the process of biological filtration.

    During this process, beneficial bacteria convert harmful chemicals from fish waste and food into less harmful compounds. Take care to keep your bacteria colonies safe by not cleaning your filter media with anything other than tank water and never completely replacing all your filter media at the same time.

    In a planted tank setup, plants like cypts will produce more ammonia then fish due to leaf droppings. It is essential to invest in a high quality filtration unit like a canister filter too keep your aquarium from having algae outbreaks.

    Flow

    Since this plant is most adapted to slow-flowing rivers and streams, they will do best in aquariums with low to moderate flow. In the aquarium setting the aquarist can use hardscape features like rocks, driftwood, or ornaments to break up the water flow if needed.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance is a vital part of the hobby and something all aquarists need to keep up with to keep their tanks looking their best and their plants and animals in great health.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Regular testing of your water conditions is an important part of monitoring the health of your aquarium. Fortunately, this is pretty easy with a liquid or strip test kit

    Use your test kit to keep an eye on values like ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, as well as pH and hardness. A thermometer is also essential to monitor the performance of your heater.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium

    These popular aquarium plants are hardy and adaptable, which means they will do well in most freshwater aquarium setups. Depending on the variety, these crypts can even be kept in small aquariums of just a few gallons.

    Keep in mind that the smaller your setup, the more difficult it is to maintain stable water conditions as parameters can shift pretty quickly.

    The key is to provide enough open space and substrate at the bottom of the tank to allow them to develop a strong set of roots. It is best to provide 2-3 inches of aquarium soil, sand, or gravel.

    How To Propagate

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is quite easy to propagate, although they are a fairly slow-growing plant. Healthy, mature specimens will send out runners that can be removed and replanted. Here is a great video from Otter Creek Aquatics that shows how to propagate Cryptocoryne Wendtii.

    Crypts don’t particularly enjoy being moved though so it is best to wait until the plantlets have grown a few leaves and roots before replanting as this gives them the best chance at surviving the move.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Good Health

    The foliage of healthy Cryptocoryne wendtii plants will vary in color and texture depending on the variety but a fairly dull color is quite normal. The leaves should be firm in texture and the plant should have a robust and healthy root system.

    Signs Of Poor Health

    Look out for plants that have melting or decaying foliage. In the early stages, this will appear as discolored growth that may become somewhat translucent before beginning to decay.

    Leaves that have holes or look like they have been partially eaten might be suffering from a nutrient deficiency.  

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    One of the most common problems seen in this plant is the dreaded crypt melt. In reality, this is nothing to be too concerned about and happens after planting many different aquatic plant species and common when a new plant is introduced.

    Melt usually happens when plants are grown in new environments. The conditions in the home aquarium are usually very different from the farms where these plants are grown and they need to go through a period of adjustment in order to adapt to the new environment.

    During this time, crypts often lose leaves. Go ahead and remove any dead or dying leaves before they decay in your aquarium because this can affect water quality.

    If the conditions in your aquarium are suitable, they will recover and you should see new growth being produced. They are pretty slow-growing plants of course, but your patience should be rewarded.

    Plant Pests

    Ramshorn Snail

    Pests like snails and parasites are often accidentally introduced to home aquariums when adding new plants. Quarantining or sterilizing new plants with a very mild solution of bleach is one useful technique to avoid this.

    Dipping new plants in a solution of 1 part bleach to 20 parts water can be very effective, just be sure to limit the exposure to 2 minutes or less and then rinse off the plant thoroughly in clean water treated with a dechlorinator.

    An easier way to avoid introducing pests is to start off with tissue culture specimens that are farmed under special, pest-free lab conditions.

    Where To Buy

    This very popular aquarium plant is not difficult to find at pet stores and online fish stores. Trusted online retailers like Buceplant stock a range of different varieties as well as pest-free tissue culture specimens at great prices.

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    FAQS

    How do you grow them?

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is easily grown by planting the roots into a suitable substrate like aquarium soil, or sand or gravel enriched with fertilizer capsules.

    How fast do they grow?

    These are naturally slow-growing plants, that may grow at a faster rate with good quality lighting and CO2 injection.

    Do they need substrate?

    Crypts grow from a well-developed root structure and should be planted in the substrate. Some aquarists have had good success by growing these plants attached to driftwood although this is not usually recommended.

    Do they need to be planted?

    These cryptocorynes need to be planted in the substrate in order to grow well. Trimming the roots before planting them in the substrate can make the task a lot easier. Use your aquascaping tweezers to push the roots into the substrate and take care to keep the plant’s crown clear and exposed.

    Closing Thoughts

    Cryptocoryne wendtii is one plant that all aquarists should consider growing. This undemanding and low-maintenance species has many different aquascaping uses and will thrive under most lighting conditions. Have you ever tried it in your aquarium? If not, leave us a comment below to tell us how this plant looks with your setup!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Wakin Goldfish Care Guide: The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing

    Wakin Goldfish Care Guide: The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing

    The Wakin Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

    A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

    Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Table of Contents

    The Wakin goldfish is one of the oldest domestic goldfish varieties still kept today. And one of the most overlooked by western hobbyists. I’ve covered dozens of goldfish types over the years on our channel, and the Wakin always surprises people who’ve only seen the slow-moving, round-bodied fancy varieties. It has a sleek body like a common goldfish but with a distinctive double tail and often stunning coloration. After 25 years in this hobby, one thing I always make clear: don’t mix Wakin with fancy goldfish. They’re fast, competitive swimmers that will outcompete slower varieties for food every time. This guide covers everything you need to keep Wakin goldfish thriving. Whether in a pond or a large aquarium.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing

    The biggest mistake I see with wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowings is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

    The Reality of Keeping Wakin Goldfish

    Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

    Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

    They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

    Expert Take

    The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

    A Brief Overview of the Wakin Goldfish

    Scientific NameCarassius Auratus Auratus
    Common NamesWakin, watonai
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginJapan
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan10 to 15 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMedium
    Minimum Tank Size30 Gallons
    Temperature Range65ยฐF to 72ยฐF
    KH4-20 dGH
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layers
    Difficulty to BreedEasy to breed
    CompatibilityCommunity tank or species-only tank. Great with Koi in Ponds
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Mostly no

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NameWakin Goldfish
    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    OrderCypriniformes
    FamilyCyprinidae
    GenusCarassius
    SpeciesC. Auratus

    Origins and Habitat

    Like many other goldfish varieties, the wakin was first bred artificially in Japan in the early 16th century. In its early days, the wakin was a highly prized Japanese goldfish, and only available to the wealthy.

    , aquarists agree that most of the fancy goldfish breeds we know today originated from mutations in the wakin goldfish.

    Like all other goldfish, the wakin is descended from the Chinese gibel carp1.

    What Does Wakin Goldfish Look Like?

    How Does A Wakin Goldfish Look Like

    Similar to common goldfish (picture source), wakin goldfish are physically characterized by a slender and long body shape with no compression. They are classified as a lean bodied or slim-bodied goldfish. These types of goldfish are more atheltic and make for a more sturdy goldfish than other goldfish.

    You will also know wakins by their split tail. However, unlike fancy double-tailed goldfish, these fish have long and flowing double tail. Their caudal fin, which is short, resembles more of a fantail shape. 

    Every wakin goldfish has a unique pattern on its body. In terms of coloration, they come in a wide variety, although they are mainly sought in white, red, or a combination of the two. Additionally, you might find rare colors like calico, yellow, orange and brown, but the rarer the color, the higher the price tag is likely to be.

    And speaking of variations, you might also find the “watonai” variation of wakins, who have flowing tails.

    • How Big are Wakin Goldfish?Add ImageAt a maximum length of 18 inches, wakin goldfish are some of the largest breeds of goldfish youโ€™ll find. Youโ€™re more likely to see them grow to this size if you locate them in a pond instead of in a tank. 
    • How Long Do Wakin Goldfish Live?Add ImageThe average Wakin goldfish can live up to 10 to 15 years, with some exceptions. Those who are carefully looked after can thrive for as long as 20 years! 

    Add New FAQ

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Wakin goldfish are fast and lively fish who enjoy exploring their surroundings. They are mainly peaceful freshwater fish, able to coexist peacefully with most other community fish. That said, you should avoid putting them together with fancy goldfish, since the latter are slow swimmers. As such, theyโ€™ll have to compete for access to food.

    Wakin goldfish are also well-loved for their friendly and curious nature. In fact, once you start feeding them regularly, youโ€™ll start to notice how they rush to the surface of the pond or tank to greet you when feeding time is due.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Great Tank Mates

    As fast swimmers, these pet fish are best kept with other fast species such as:

    Besides goldfish, apple snails, ghost shrimps, African dwarf frogs, rosy barbs, and weather loaches.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    , the Wakin goldfish are friendly and playful with most other community fish. However, there are certain fish that don’t get along with them. For instance, you should avoid housing them with aquarium fish species like fancy goldfish as they are slow swimmers and therefore, at a disadvantage during feeding time. You also shouldn’t choose aggressive tank mates for the these fish, such as cichlids

    Just got yourself or considering a Wakin Goldfish? If so, this article about Wakin Goldfish Care will answer all your questions!

    The vivid color, attractive double tail and friendly, curious temperament of the Wakin goldfish (carassius auratus) has led to an increase in its popularity in recent years. Originating in Japan like most other wild carp descended fish, it was the original prototype, of sorts, of many other fancy goldfish breeds.

    Wakin goldfish are a good choice for aquatic pet lovers since they’re not difficult to take care of. Although they are best brought up in a pond, they can also be housed in aquariums. With the right care guidelines, of course.

    How Big Are They?

    At a maximum length of 18 inches, wakin goldfish are some of the largest breeds of goldfish youโ€™ll find. Youโ€™re more likely to see them grow to this size if you locate them in a pond instead of in a tank.ย 

    How Long Do They Live?

    The average Wakin goldfish can live up to 10 to 15 years, with some exceptions. Those who are carefully looked after can thrive for as long as 20 years!ย 

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Wakin goldfish are lean bodied goldfish that are fast and lively fish. They enjoy exploring their surroundings. They are mainly peaceful freshwater fish, able to coexist peacefully with most other community fish. That said, you should avoid putting them together with fancy goldfish, since the latter are slow swimmers. As such, theyโ€™ll have to compete for access to food.

    Wakin goldfish are also well-loved for their friendly and curious nature. In fact, once you start feeding them regularly, youโ€™ll start to notice how they rush to the surface of the pond or tank to greet you when feeding time is due.

    What Do They Eat?

    The Waking Goldfish breed is omnivorous. This means that giving them high quality fish food and a varied diet they need is easy, and you can feed them most low-fat foods.

    You can give them flakes or pellets, but as always, these should not be their only nutrition source. Instead, you should aim to mix it up by introducing vegetables such as lettuce, broccoli, cabbage and shelled peas, and occasionally, chunks of fruits like strawberries and grapes. Also, if you keep them in an aquarium with live plants, donโ€™t be surprised if they start grazing on them.

    Of course, you should always be cautious about overfeeding them, because doing so can lead to the development of one or more of the digestive conditions or swim bladder problems.

    What About Live Foods?

    Brine shrimp, Tubifex worms, blackworms, bloodworms, mosquito larvae, etc. Make good live foods for these fish. Freeze dried and frozen sources of protein will also work.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    A proper diet is very important for the well-being of your goldfish. Feed them too little and they will fall sick, feed them too much and they will have buoyancy problems.

    The Wakin fish are omnivores which means they can feast on plant and animal matter. While basic store-bought pellets and flakes are a good source of nutrition, try to bring new variations of food. For example, try to drop some lettuce or diced grapes once a week or so and watch how your fish react to it.

    When you’re buying fish food, try to get a mixture of both plant and animal-based varieties. Also, you should choose pellets that sink to the floor rather thank floating on the surface. Goldfish like searching for food at the base of the tank and with variation in the pellets, they won’t get bored.

    You should feed them no more than twice daily and no more than what they can finish off within 3-4 minutes. Remove any leftovers from the water to ensure that the water remains inhabitable.

    Tank Requirements (Care)

    Hereโ€™s what to keep in mind when setting up your wakin tank.

    Tank Size

    Wakin fish can grow quite large and therefore need a lot of room to live freely. A large body also means more waste released into the aquarium. 

    With this in mind, at least a 30 gallon tank is required to house one of these guys, along with an additional 10 gallons of water for each new fish. But there are no limits: the larger the aquarium size, the better. To maximize their happiness and lifespan, outdoor ponds are the best place for a Wakin. You can see a great example of a wakin goldfish tank below by C Lifestyle.

    Tank Setup

    There are some basic elements your tank must have in order for your Wakins to live and thrive. 

    Temperature

    Wakins prefer to live and thrive in cold water; they should be placed in unheated tanks. The ideal water temperature range for them is 65 to 72 degrees F. 

    pH

    Maintain a neutral pH for them between 6.0 and 8.0.

    Ammonia and Nitrate

    Ammonia and nitrate levels should be kept at 0.

    Substrate

    Large, smooth gravel is a good substrate or a fine sandy substrate is best for Wakin goldfish. This is because goldfish love scouring around, they might mistake gravel for food. The wrong gravel size is accidentally shallowed by your goldfish. Caribsea sand is great for goldfish.

    Ideal For Goldfish
    Caribsea Super Naturals Sand

    This sand by Caribsea is perfect for supporting the foraging habit of goldfish. Also works with bottom feeders and discus fish.

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    Decor

    Using plastic plants along with certain moss types will enhance the look of your aquarium. You can add large stones and small sticks as well to replicate a pond and give your fish plenty of options to play.

    Plants

    Keeping natural vegetation is difficult when it comes to wakin, who love to eat plants. More active ones might even uproot plants. Moreover, many plants wonโ€™t survive in the colder temperatures that wakins like. Knowing this, here are several plants that can take the punishment of these fish or may be ignored entirely:

    If you do not want to deal with the hassle artificial plants is advised. In large commercial size ponds, plants are often omitted

    Filtration

    To deal with the large amounts of goldfish waste, go with a filtration system meant for large tanks. Itโ€™s also advised to get a filtration system with a larger tank capacity than what your setup has. A large power filter is minimum for a Wakin in a aquarium. For ponds, consider a waterfall style filtration system. Large ponds over 1500 gallons will often consider bead filtration for maximum biological filtration.

    Since these fish are large and produce a lot of waste, consider a high end biological media like biohome.

    Editor’s Choice!
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    How to Breed

    We have certain pointers for those of you who are particularly interested in creating your own Wakin ecosystem. 

    To push your mating, you must first replicate the natural changes they go through in a pond. Firstly, since they mate during spring, dropping the water temperature to 60 or 65 degrees F will signal the fish to procreate.

    You must offer the fish adequate natural vegetation such as the Java moss in order to create suitable egg laying zones. You can also look for artificial spawning mops which do the same job as the moss. You should see fry within 48-72 hours of eggs being laid.

    Note that in larger ponds, Wakin Goldfish breed regularly. If you donโ€™t want an overflowing pond, youโ€™ll have to make regular checks. Larger fish like Koi will eat baby fry.

    Health and Disease

    The best way to keep your fish healthy is with great filtration and a quality diet. Prevention is the best remedy when it comes to health. If you are wondering if your fish is unhealthy, there are some pointers to help.

    Signs of Good Health

    A healthy wakin is one that retains its friendly, lively and curious nature. You will see it frequently dipping in and out of tank and pond decorations, swimming swiftly and actively, and eating large amounts of food in short amounts of time.

    Signs of Poor Health and Treatment

    Unfortunately, like all goldfish varieties, wakins are also susceptible to freshwater fish diseases like ich, fin rot, bacterial infections, fluke, etc. The article I linked to contains a wealth of information on how to identify and cure many common diseases you may come across. Common signs of an ill fish would be:

    • Rapid breathing
    • Flashing or scratching rocks/gravel
    • White and stringy poop
    • Red marks and ulcers
    • Torn or clamped fins
    • White spots (not to be confused with mating white spots of goldfish who are breeding)

    Wakins are less susceptible to bloat and other diseases that plague fancy goldfish.

    Where to Buy (And Cost)

    You can find them for sale online and at many aquarium stores. The main issue you will run into when shopping locally is the quality of Wakins. They are classified as beginner fish and not kept in good conditions. The best place to purchase in my mind is from a garden retailer who specializes in pond fish. Wakin goldfish cost more for at these retailers, but they are of superior quality.

    My favorite of these are NextDayKoi. They offer a variety of quality goldfish that work well in ponds and larger aquariums. You won’t be disappointed ordering from them!

    Wakin Goldfish

    With their elongated bodies and unique fins, Wakins are a flash of color and character to your pond

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    Frequently Asked Questions

    How big do these goldfish get?

    In a pond, they might grow to be 18 inches long.

    Are they aggressive?

    They are not aggressive, although they are fast and active fish who should not be kept with slow-moving fish like fancy goldfish

    What do they eat?

    As omnivores, they thrive on a varied diet. Besides flakes and pellets, you should also aim to give them vegetables, fruits, and occasionally live foods.

    Are they rare?

    They arenโ€™t very rare, but not very easy to find either. Especially if you have a small budget, or want special colors on them such as calico and brown, you might have a harder time finding them for sale. The fanciest varieties will often be imported.

    Is it better to keep them in a fish pond or an aquarium?

    Due to their affinity for cold, slow-moving water, they do best in ponds with lots of natural sources of food and of course, space to swim about in. They are also more likely to reach their maximum length of 18 inches if kept in a pond, and breed more easily.

    However, you can also keep them in a tank as long as you closely follow the guidelines weโ€™ve detailed above.

    Is the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Right for You?

    Before you add a wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowings need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Wakin Goldfish The Traditional Japanese Variety Worth Knowing Compares to Similar Species

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the wakin goldfish the traditional japanese variety worth knowing needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    With adequate amounts of living space, a varied diet and dedicated care, the Wakin goldfish is the new pride and joy of your home aquarium. Although itโ€™s best to put them in ponds, replicating a pond environment is also possible. I hope you found these tips helpful! Please leave your comments below so I can continue providing helpful information about these wonderful fish and others in our hobby.


  • Everything You Need to Know About Toadstool Coral Care

    Everything You Need to Know About Toadstool Coral Care

    After growing corals in my own reef setups, if your parameters are not stable, this coral will not survive the first month. Corals do not die from wrong numbers. They die from unstable numbers. The difference between a thriving reef and a dying one is consistency, not perfection.

    Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

    Looking to learn about proper Toadstool Coral Care? If so you are in luck! Toadstool Corals are a perfect choice if you are looking for a beautiful, hardy coral to add to your reef tank at home Toadstool corals are known for their bright colors and easy care. In fact, these beauties will thrive in even some of the most basic aquarium setups! Learn more about this fascinating invertebrate below so that it can become an integral part of your underwater ecosystem!

    Quick Overview

    Scientific NameSarcophyton spp.
    Common NamesToadstool, toadstool mushroom leather coral, leather coral, mushroom coral, trough coral
    Family
    OriginWidely found throughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands)
    Common ColorsGreens, browns, tans, yellows
    Care LevelEasy
    TemperamentPeaceful
    LightingLow-Moderate (50-150 PAR)
    Tank PlacementBottom, Middle, Top
    Flow RateModerate-High
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0. 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8. 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350. 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250. 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Like so many other species, the toadstool leather coral is commonly found throughout the Indo-Pacific off the coasts of Fiji, Australia, Tonga, and the Solomon Islands. These corals thrive in shallow, mixed reefs where they often grow into huge plates that can quickly overshadow life below.

    Though they will always grow towards the light, toadstool corals an be seen growing at most levels of the reef. If they are overshadowed by another coral, they can easily extend their stalk so that tentacles are once again at optimal lighting conditions.

    What Is It?

    In conversation, toadstool corals are regularly referred to as leather corals. However, there are actually several genera of leather coral, which can get confusing as they look and act pretty similar to one another; they are also all soft corals that lack an internal skeleton structure.

    The most common species of leather coral to come across in the aquarium hobby are:

    • Sarcophyton spp. are types of toadstool leather coral. Both Sarcophyton spp. and Lobophytum spp. have dimorphic polyps which means that some tentacles are extended while others stay in the flesh of the coral; toadstool leather corals have much longer extended tentacles than the other genera.
    • Lobophytum spp. include devilโ€™s hand leather corals. These corals also have dimorphic polyps, though their extended tentacles are much shorter and less present than those of toadstool corals. Devil’s hands are popular for their unique claw-shaped formations instead.
    • Sinularia spp. are even more branched than Lobophytum spp. and are largely referred to as finger corals. These corals have small tentacles close to the flesh of the coral that can make for a fuzzy appearance.

    Other leather coral genera you may come across are Kenya trees (Capnela), colt corals or finger leathers (Cladiella), colt corals or cauliflower colt corals (Klyxum), and nepthea or cauliflower corals (Nepthea).

    These corals is very difficult to tell apart as undeveloped frag pieces. As you can also see, their names are very confusing, which can make identifying your leather very difficult even as fully grown corals.

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Does A Toadstool Leather Coral Look Like

    Toadstool corals are one of the most recognizable species of leather coral and one of the easiest corals to identify in general. A Toadstool leather coral has a singular stalk with a large cap. This cap features extended tentacles which can vary in length across species. Toadstool corals are very accurately named after their similar appearance to toadstool mushrooms.

    Though toadstool corals are relatively plain in color, only featuring greens, browns, tans, and yellows, they are a popular addition to the reef aquarium because of their impressive sizes. These corals can grow to be almost 2 feet across, though they stay under a foot in the aquarium setting!

    Luckily, toadstool corals are very easy to propagate so they are easy to handle if they get too big.

    Placement In The Aquarium

    Toadstools are very adaptable corals, however, they aren’t necessarily the least demanding. For being such a beginner-friendly coral, toadstools do best under low to moderate lighting with moderate to strong flow requirements.

    Many hobbyists find that lighting plays a big role in the colors expressed by your toadstool leather coral. Higher lighting will cause your toadstool leather coral to be brighter and more vibrant. However, these corals are a low-light species and only need about 50-150 PAR1. They need to either be acclimatized to higher areas in the tank over time or left to grow their stalk naturally.

    Keep in mind that these corals can get huge and will block out light from other corals below. While they is placed at all levels of the aquarium, it takes some planning to make sure that you don’t lose a big chunk of real estate in your reef aquarium.

    Toadstool corals also need moderate to high flow., flow can never be too strong as the coral will adapt and strengthen its stalk; of course, move the coral if it is being bent over by the current. On the other hand, flow is too low.

    Shedding

    Leather corals are unique as they have the ability to shed. This happens about once every one to two months and is a natural part of how they keep algae and waste off of them. When your toadstool coral is getting ready to shed, you might notice that it changes colors and has its tentacles retracted for a couple of days.

    Eventually, you will see a thin shiny layer form on top of your toadstool coral. Over the next few days, this layer will be shed; this shed can get stuck on other rocks and corals in the tank, but it is not harmful. Once done shedding, your toadstool coral will emerge brighter and fuller than before.

    In order to make sheds easy for your toadstool leather coral, it is best to keep it under moderate to high flow.

    While shedding is a natural process to keep algae and waste from building up on your coral, it can also be a sign that something is wrong in the water column. Toadstool leather corals are notoriously temperamental with some hobbyists having corals that refuse to open on weeks on end.

    For the most part, this isn’t a concern if water parameters are stable and all other livestock is doing well. Expect your leather coral to shed towards the end of this ‘dormant’ period.

    Temperament In The Aquarium

    For being such a large coral, these corals are very peaceful and almost harmless to other species. There are two main concerns you might have if planning on getting a toadstool coral.

    Space

    These corals get huge and their growth is unpredictable. Their stalk does not take up much space on the rockwork, but their cap can spread out several inches.

    The direction of their growth also largely depends on the water flow and light, so they can take on weird shapes that you might not have allowed for. In general, it’s best to place toadstool corals first and allow some time for them to grow before adding more corals below them.

    Luckily, these corals do not have sweeper tentacles and can’t sting, so that is not a concern.

    Toxicity

    Some species of toadstool coral are toxic and can engage in chemical warfare. This might sound scary, and the effects can devastate a tank, but there are ways to be prepared should this happen.

    , toadstool leather corals release their toxins under stress and or if they’re dying. If this happens, you will see other corals also start to rot, shed, or die. For this reason, it is important to remove melting leather corals from the tank as soon as they are noticed; it is possible to frag dying corals if healthy areas still remain.

    Once the problem coral has been removed, add activated carbon to remove organic impurities (toxins) from the water and perform large water changes over the next few days. If possible, the remaining corals should also be removed from the reef aquarium and moved into quarantine until the tank is ready again.

    Care And Maintenance

    Toadstool Coral in Reef Tank

    Otherwise, toadstool coral care is easy and straightforward. These corals check all the boxes of growing quickly, bringing movement to the tank, and being easy to keep.

    There are many different species and varieties of toadstool leather coral, which can bring some difficulty to more advanced hobbyists if preferred. For example, the Fiji yellow coral (Sarcophyton elegans) is one of the hardest species to keep as it requires high light and high water flow to keep its yellow frilled appearance fully vibrant.

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    Leather corals, especially toadstool leather corals, are very easy to keep. These corals are hardy, easy to find, and easy to frag. They also grow very quickly and are very large, which is appealing to beginner hobbyists who are looking to quickly fill their saltwater tank. In fact, there is little to no maintenance needed after adding a leather to your aquarium.

    Water Parameters And Dosing

    Toadstool corals do not need any special water parameters. As a soft coral, they do not need to build a calcium carbonate skeleton so they do not heavily rely on many nutrients to grow like large polyp stony corals (LPS) or small polyp stony corals (SPS).

    That being said, toadstool corals need average reef conditions with available nitrates and phosphates. Too often, hobbyists strive for perfect parameters with 0 ppm across the board. Though this might seem like the perfect system, limited nutrients are actually a sign of an unhealthy tank.

    Instead, nutrients should be available for coral growth. If keeping only soft corals, these nutrients do not need to be dosed and are introduced naturally into the tank through fish waste, food, and other debris. However, if keeping larger LPS or SPS, then it is recommended to dose those nutrients that are being used for growth.

    Feeding

    These corals do not need to be fed and will grow quickly enough on their own. In fact, these corals are actually too slow to be fed effectively; their tentacles are very slow to retract so food has the chance to be swept away or eaten by something else in the meantime.

    If you are really wanting to feed your toadstool leather coral, then small planktonic foods and specific coral foods, like coral powders, Phytoplanton, and pellets, is given once or twice a week.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    Toadstool corals is kept with nearly all reef safe fish and invertebrates. It should be noted that toadstools with long tentacles may be mistaken as an anemone by clownfish. Unlike other anemone-lookalikes that retract when hosted, like Euphyllia, toadstools are better at withstanding annoyances from tankmates and will stay expanded.

    In fact, I have personally had hermit crabs crawl all over the tops of toadstools. Though the coral retracted when touched in that one location, it left its other tentacles open and was quick to extend to full size once the hermit crab left.

    Still, more coral-hungry fish and invertebrates should be avoided. Anything with teeth or pincers is capable of cutting through the soft flesh of a leather coral, which can lead to toxin release in extreme cases.

    Fragging

    Toadstool corals are one of the easiest corals to frag but is a little intimidating due to their size and the possibility of toxin release. There is little reason to worry though as long as all tools and equipment are laid out ahead of time.

    First, you will need to decide if you want to frag the toadstool coral still inside the main display or if it is possible to remove it and frag it in another tank or bucket. Sometimes the coral is too large or too integrated to remove from the tank, in which case you will need to frag it directly in the aquarium. Here is a good video on how to frag a toadstool coral by How To Reef. I’ll have some details below if you want to keep reading along.

    To frag a toadstool that is still in the aquarium, simply use a scissor or a razor blade to cut pieces from the top. Be sure to avoid the stem as the parent toadstool will use this to grow a new cap. Remove the pieces of frag. It is strongly recommended to run activated carbon and perform larger water changes the following days to remove any possible toxins.

    Many hobbyists like to trim their toadstool frag pieces more uniformly in order to get a more symmetrical appearance once the coral grows; this is not required, but simply trim the pieces into squares and discard or frag the remaining scraps.

    In order to attach the frag to a frag plug or a piece of rock, you may use superglue (cyanoacrylate) or rubber bands. Superglue isn’t as effective with toadstools as these frags may shed several times before attaching to the given surface. In this case, be prepared that some frags may fall off before fully attaching.

    A more secure way to attach your toadstool frag is by using a rubber band. Simply wrap the rubber band around the frag and the rock/frag plug. Make sure that the pressure isn’t too tight as this can cause the frag to split apart.

    Once everything is done, simply dip the frag in fresh saltwater and/or a coral dip to make sure that no toxins are released back into the display aquarium and to help with recovery.

    How Fast Do They Grow?

    One of the reasons toadstools are so easy to propagate is because they recover very quickly. Most times, frags will open their tentacles immediately after being cut but will still take several weeks to completely attach to their new surface; the parent coral may take a little longer but should recover within a couple of weeks.

    After that, toadstools grow very quickly. A frag can turn into a mature coral in less than a year and continue to grow in girth and circumference.

    Why Won’t Your Coral Open?

    As mentioned before, toadstools are notoriously temperamental and have been known to close for weeks on end without any signs of improvement. But how long is too long and when should you start to be concerned?

    As mentioned before, toadstools are very hardy. However, this does not mean they will thrive in less-than-ideal conditions. Instead, they can take a long time to acclimatize to changed conditions. For example, a toadstool introduced to a new aquarium may take several weeks to fully open up even if water parameters are ideal.

    A closed toadstool leather coral can also be a sign of poor water quality, though other fish and corals will likely show signs of unhappiness first. Another reason is that your coral is going to shed, whether it be because of stress or because it needs to clean itself. If you notice other corals closing up during this time as well, it would be best to test water parameters.

    Lastly, a closed toadstool is a sign of brown jelly disease. These corals bruise very easily, which can invite infection, namely brown jelly disease. In which case, it is best to remove the affected coral and treat it vigorously as this is highly contagious.

    Closing Thoughts

    The toadstool coral is a large, impressive coral that doesn’t require much extra care. Not only are toadstool leather corals easy to care for, but they’re also very affordable, quick to grow, and is fragged easily. These corals might not be the showiest in terms of color, but their extended tentacles can bring movement to the beginner or advanced reef aquarium setup. Leave us your thoughts on this type of leathery reef builder below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • Kawarimono Koi: The Rare Catch-All Category Serious Collectors Should Know

    Kawarimono Koi: The Rare Catch-All Category Serious Collectors Should Know

    Koi are pond fish. Not aquarium fish. They reach 2 to 3 feet long and live 25 years or more. The commitment is closer to owning a dog than keeping a fish tank.

    Koi outlive most pets. Make sure your pond plan matches a 25-year commitment.

    At koi shows and vendor events like Aquashella, Kawarimono always draw a second look. They’re the “catch-all” classification in the koi world. Non-metallic koi that don’t fit neatly into any of the fifteen standard recognized varieties. That sounds like a consolation prize, but in practice it means Kawarimono includes some of the most unusual and visually striking koi you’ll ever see. Because they’re produced in smaller numbers and don’t follow predictable patterns, they’re legitimately rare. If you’re the kind of koi keeper who wants something that starts a conversation, Kawarimono are worth knowing about.

    A Quick Overview On Kawarimono Koi

    Scientific NameCyprinus rubrofuscus
    Common NamesKoi, Fancy Carp, Nishikigoi, Kawarimono Koi
    FamilyCyprinidae 
    OriginJapan
    Common ColorsSaffron through reddish brown to nearly black
    Care LevelIntermediate
    TemperamentSocial and Peaceful
    LifespanApprox 30 – 40 years
    CompatibilityOther carps and amphibians
    Minimum Pond Size1000 gallons
    Pond Set-upOutdoor water garden with aquatic plants

    Kawarimono mainly falls under two groups:

    1. Black Koi
    2. Solid or single-colored Koi

    Therefore, Kawarimono, being the absolute darling, still doesn’t fall under the fifteen other varieties of Koi.

    However, regardless of their peculiar features, they are produced in small numbers. Hence, rare.

    Black Koi Kawarimono

    Black Koi kawarimono is further classified into five different varieties.

    Kumonryu

    Kumonryu is by far the most prominent Koi of all black Koi varieties which gained prominence in the 1980s. The name Kumonryu means dragon of the nine markings, which is derived from a legend of Dragon Ryu. Ryu was considered a Koi that transformed into a cloud and raced through the sky.

    Kumonryu is named after dragons because their bodies are evocative of the metallic coiled bodies of dragons as portrayed in historical arts.

    Kumonryu Koi are always scaleless (Doitsu) where the black surface is covered with white markings over the head, fins, and body. Some experts claim such details are reminiscent of the Killer whale pattern. The patterns of Kumonryu vary. From large to wavy-edged chunks of white spread along the flanks and head of the body.

    However, the Kumonryu Koi is mainly Doitsu Matsukawabake, meaning that their pattern fluctuates seasonally, depending on the quality and water temperature, forming a black net pattern.

    The class of Koi, though majorly scaleless, showcases a group with singles lines of considerable lateral and dorsal scales. However, that’s rare.

    Beni Kumonryu

    Beni Kumonryu is scaleless Koi with a red pattern over a white and black body.

    However, these variants are not always scaleless, rather show a single line of large scales on the lateral and dorsal sides.

    The red (Beni) pattern often changes frequently, depending upon the water quality and temperature. Whereas, in winters, it’s natural for Beni Kumonryu to turn completely black. However, as the summer and spring approach, the red (Beni) pattern and white base come out.

    Matsukawabakke

    Matsukawabakke is a Kumonryu with scales. Legend has it that Matsukawabakke is the result of Kumonryu and Shusui’s interbreeding.

    And likely so.

    Like its counterparts, Matsukawabakke changes colors frequently during its course of life. Matsukawabakke, in some seasons, can turn totally white or black. However, they exhibit cloudy black patterns in the transition period.

    Karasu

    The literal meaning of Karasu is ‘crow’ in Japanese.

    Karasu is an ancient variety of Koi that showcases black fins and body with a white or orange stomach. However, at times, Karasu shows traces of blue instead of black.

    Hajiro

    Hajiro is a close relative of Karasu with a white nose and white-tipped pectoral fins that add uniqueness to the pool.

    Hageshiro 

    Hageshiro is very similar to Hajiro with a little addition of white on the head.

    Single-colored

    Kawarimono Koi Types

    Chagoi

    Chagoi is a single-colored uniform brown Koi famous for their distinctive qualities, unusual size, amicability, and amiability.

    The word Chagoi is derived from a Japanese word, meaning tea, depicting the true color of this breed.

    Chagoi is naturally peaceful that appreciates hand feeding and generous interaction with their owners.

    However, to determine the best quality Chagoi, one should look out for the paler variants that are blemish-free, and free of spotting, fading, or blurring. Here is a great video by Dazzle Koi that goes in detail on this great breed.

    Soragoi (Plain Gray Blue)

    Soragoi is just like common carp, so they are unpopular when it comes to domesticating Koi fish.

    Soragoi displays plain blue-gray color and can reach over 30 inches in length. Soragoi is very docile and calm and may have a calming effect in your garden ponds.

    Ochiba Shigure

    Ochiba Shigure is a cross-bred of the brown-colored Chagoi with the grey-blue Soragoi.

    Together they form a bi-colored pattern, Ochiba Shigure.

    Shiro Muji (White)

    Shiro Muji is an all-white Koi that is a result of successful Kohaku spawning. However, in Shiro Muji, the hi is completely absent.

    The Shiro Muji is often discarded or thrown into the bargain bin. Nevertheless, the fittest ones are stored and raised into quality Koi.

    One of the rarest kind of Shiro Muji is Albinos. They have red eyes, red dorsal fins and tails.

    Kigoi (Non-metallic Yellow)

    Kigoi or lemon Koi are the non-metallic variants of Koi of yellow or pale orange color. They are flat-shaped and matte-colored with a few exceptions of brighter and metallic skin.

    The rarest type of Kigoi is Akame Kigoi, which has red eyes and extremely prized. They have also proven to grow immensely.

    Midorigoi (Green)

    The variety that exhibits the color green is called Midorigoi. Surprisingly, it’s the only family that shows this color.

    Midorigoi are translucent green Doitsu Koi that has black or silver mirror scales.

    Formerly, they emerged from a cross between Shusui and a Yamabuki Ogon in the 1960s as a scaleless breed. However, presently, they are sold as the scaled variants of Koi.

    Magoi

    Magoi has deep bronze scales. However, regardless the color, the Koi seems black from above.

    The Magoi is not considered a true breed by some experts. Nevertheless, the legacy of keeping the fish continues.

    Matsuba

    The matt-scaled non-metallic Matsuba Koi falls in the Kawariumono variety, which are rare and pricey.

    How to Choose a high-quality Koi

    The Kawarimono is not just a type, it’s a whole different variety with various other types of unusual yet stunning Koi fish.

    Therefore, the judging criteria for Kawarimono is just the same with any other Koi fish.

    The best quality Kawarimono should be deep and solid with a healthy, lustrous body. Also, there should be no signs of spotting, blurring, or fading. If any of these signs appear, the fish is of inferior quality and discarded.

    Furthermore, the distribution of hues and patterns should be consistent all across the entire body. If you are looking to purchase a Koi online, look for a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) vendor. NextDayKoi is a great place to get quality Koi at reasonable prices.

    The Most Friendly Koi
    Kawarimono

    A non metallic Koi fish. Features the Chagoi Koi – known as the most friendly Koi in the Pond trade

    Click For Best Price

    FAQs

    What is this type of fish?

    Kawarimono is a broad classification of Koi fish that feature non-metallic bodies with a slight sheen on their skin.

    Kawarimono falls under three categories:

    1. Single-colored koi: Kigoi, Benigoi, Shiro Muji.

    2. Black Koi: Karasu, Kumonryu, Matsukawabake.

    3. Miscellaneous: Matsuba, Midorigoi.

    What are the friendliest Koi?

    Though Koi are quite friendly and peaceful pets. However, there’s a classification in Kawarimono that beats all other Koi when it comes to friendliness. And that’s the Chagoi Koi.

    What is Magoi?

    Magoi Koi is the original authentic Japanese Carp introduced in Japan in late 1700s. Magoi Koi is not considered a true breed by some experts. However, they still managed to make their mark. It has deep bronze scales that appear black from above.

    Final Thoughts

    Kawarimono, what’s considered as left overs or discarded fish are one of a kind with a broad classification of various unconventional yet beautiful fish that are bred all across the world.

    References

  • Java Moss Care – A How To Guide

    Java Moss Care – A How To Guide

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Java moss is a hardy, low-maintenance plant that is grown in just about any type of aquatic environment. If you’re looking to add some diversity to your tank, or you have a new tank and want to fill it with plants from the start, this article has everything you need! Read on for an informative guide on Java Moss care. We will cover everything from proper environment, conditions, trimming, and more! Check it out!

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Taxiphyllum barbieri
    Common Names Java moss
    Family Hypnaceae
    Origin Southeast Asia
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Low-High, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, Midground, Attached, Floating, Carpet
    Flow Rate Moderate
    Temperature Range 64-86ยฐF
    Height Up to 4 inches
    pH Range 5.0. 8.0
    Propagation Division
    Growth Rate Moderate
    Feed Type Column Feeder
    CO2 Requirement No, but recommended

    Origins And Habitat

    Java moss is native to Southeast Asia where it grows in a variety of moist habitats, both above and below the water. This aquatic plant grows on river banks, attached to rocks, wood, and tree trunks.

    What Does It Look Like?

     Java moss is an all-green creeping moss that forms a tangled mass of delicate stems. The stems hold branches that reach nearly an inch in length. You can see videos and clips from it from our YouTube video above.

    The branches are covered in tiny, hollow leaves. Interestingly, Java moss that is grown emersed develops much larger leaves than those grown submerged. The shade of green and the density of the plant varies depending on the strength of the lighting where the plant is growing.

    Java moss does not have true roots and gathers all its nutrients through its leaves and stems in the water column. They do, however, have fine red-brown structures known as rhizoids that work like roots to attach the plant to solid structures.

    Java Moss Care Guide

    Java moss works really well in a variety of aquascapes. This moss adds amazing textures and accents to nature aquariums, especially if grown on hardscape features like driftwood.

    Java moss is one of the most versatile plants in the hobby. The secret to its versatility? Rhizoids.

    These ‘roots’ don’t absorb nutrients but have the function of anchoring the plant. Java moss does not grow from the substrate will anchor itself to just about any solid object with a bit of texture.

    That being said, these plants don’t need to be attached to anything to grow well, and can simply be left to float in the tank. Let’s take a closer look at some of the uses for Java moss in the aquarium.

    Attached To Hardscape

    One of the most popular placements in the planted tank is on hardscape features like driftwood, rocks, or even aquarium decor. Attaching the moss to your hardscape takes a little effort, but it’s really not that difficult.

    Simply tie a clump of Java moss to the object using thread or fishing line. After some time, the moss will attach itself to the object with its roots/rhizoids and the fishing line is removed carefully.

    Java Moss on Driftwood

    Moss Tree

    As strange as it may sound, Java moss makes for a fantastic underwater tree for aquarists. Clumps of moss attached to the ends of an upright branching piece of aquarium driftwood with fishing line can look truly incredible.

    Take your time in selecting a great piece of driftwood because this will make all the difference to the finishing java moss trees. You can find great pieces at aquarium shops or from online stores.

    It is best to use a clear, fine fishing line or a neutral colored thread for a more natural look. The thread or fishing line is carefully removed once the roots of the moss have attached themselves firmly to the driftwood.

    Carpet Or Wall

    Another innovative and interesting way to use this plant is to create a Java moss carpet or moss wall. Java moss is probably your most realistic option for growing carpets in a low-light tank. How to attach the moss to the wall or bottom of the tank takes a little planning, however.

    The secret is to sandwich the moss between two pieces of mesh. Stainless steel or plastic mesh works fine, and if you find that the ‘sandwich’ isn’t staying put on the substrate at the bottom of the tank, put a few stones or aquarium weights between the mesh but under the Java moss to weigh it down.

    The mesh is cut to a shape of your choice to keep the Java moss carpet contained in the area you want it.

    A Java moss wall is made in much the same way as a carpet, except you can use suction cups to attach it to the glass. This technique works really well for creating a natural backdrop in the tank, and that way, you can’t see the suction cups.

    Floating

    The easiest way to use Java moss is simply to toss it in your aquarium and let it grow. Java moss as a floating plant has some pros and cons though.

    On the one hand, floating Java moss is great for providing structure to bare breeding tanks without substrate and creates a safe haven for small fish, fry, and shrimps.

    Java moss can look a little untidy though and if left to drift, there’s a chance it’ll find its way up to the intake of your aquarium filter and cause you some problems.

    Floating Moss Ball

    A more complicated, but very interesting way to grow java moss is to create floating moss ball. You can do this by attaching the moss to a floating object like a wine bottle cork with thread.

    If you attach some clear fishing line to the floating moss ball and anchor it to the bottom of the tank, you can keep your moss ball in place in the midwater.

    Lighting

    Java moss isn’t very particular about lighting. It really doesn’t need much of it, but then, all aquarium plants need light to grow.

    Providing good light will result in brighter, more compact but faster-growing Java moss, but there is a catch. Strong light that isn’t perfectly balanced with nutrients and CO2 could easily result in a clump of algae-covered Java moss in your aquarium.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Java moss is one of the best plants for breeder tanks because it creates a safe environment for small invertebrates and fish eggs and fry. For a very simple set-up, a big bunch of java moss grown as a floating plant in a bare tank works great.

    It’s not only baby fish that enjoy Java moss though. Any small or shy species will enjoy sheltering in a clump of moss.

    The massive surface area of this plant also provides a great area for livestock to forage on biofilm and micro-organisms. Java moss also oxygenates the water in your tank, which is great for your livestock.

    Good Tank Mates

    Just about any tropical or cool water freshwater fish that is not vegetarian is kept with Java moss. Just be sure that the fish enjoys the same parameters as the Java moss.

    Fortunately for aquarists, it is possible to grow Java moss under such a wide range of parameters that compatibility isn’t a problem.

    Some great fish to keep with Java moss include:

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Goldfish and cichlids will have no problem eating your Java moss, or just tearing it up and spreading tiny pieces off this plant all over your tank in the process. If they do not eat your java moss, they can also uproot with their foraging and digging habits.

    Java Moss grows in almost any condition. That is exactly why it takes over tanks when you stop trimming it. Easy does not mean zero maintenance.

    To be on the safe side, avoid keeping any plant-eating fish like silver dollars or plecos as well. Siamese algae eaters are also reported to eat Java moss on occasion, especially the new growth.

    Feeding (Fertilization)

     Java moss is not a very heavy feeder. Speaking, Java moss will not require additional fertilizers, especially if you keep fish in the tank.

    In low light tanks, in particular, the moss will not be able to use excess nutrients and feeding is likely to result in a hair algae problem. In tanks with medium to strong lighting, however, a light application of liquid fertilizer is helpful. If you are planning a mass planted aquascape that included Java Moss, you should consider investing in a quality liquid fertilizer like APT Complete.

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    CO2 Injection

    The Java moss plant does not need injected CO2 to thrive and grows very well in low-tech aquariums. The amount of carbon dioxide naturally available to plants in the aquarium is sufficient to keep this plant healthy.

    That being said, all plants require CO2 to live and photosynthesize, and added CO2 will improve the growth of Java moss if used correctly.

    How Much CO2 Do You Need?

    If you do run CO2 in your tank, and you keep fish or other aquatic animals, it is important to ensure that your levels never exceed 30 ppm. Above this level, CO2 causes suffocation in your livestock and will result in losses.

    How long Should You Run CO2?

    When you start up your CO2 injection, it takes about 2 hours for the gas to reach optimum levels in the aquarium. Therefore, it is best to start adding CO2 before your lights start up.

    Since plants can’t use carbon dioxide in the absence of light, It is best to shut off your CO2 at the same time as your lights go off, or a little before.

    , you should run your lights for about 8-10 hours per day, which means you should run carbon dioxide for 10-12 hours per day for the best result.

    Types

    Java moss (Taxiphyllum barbieri) is pretty variable in appearance, depending on the water condition in the aquarium. There are a few similar species of moss in the hobby, however. Although they are different species, with different care requirements, they are very similar-looking plants.

    Similar Species

    • Christmas mossVesicularia montagnei
    • Singapore moss – Vesicularia dubyana
    • Weeping moss – Vesicularia ferriei
    • Taiwan moss – Taxiphyllum alternans
    • Peacock moss – Taxiphyllum sp. ‘Peacock’
    • Stringy moss – Leptodictyum riparium
    • Phoenix moss – Fissidens fontanus

    Care

    Java moss care is very easy, provided you grow it in suitable conditions. This plant is trimmed heavily using a pair of aquascaping scissors, but this is quite a messy business.

    The trimmings tend to drift around and look pretty unsightly. Sometimes trimmings will settle somewhere and begin to grow there, making this plant quite difficult to contain if you’re not careful.

    One way to avoid this problem is to ask a friend to vacuum up the Java moss trimmings as you cut them so that they cant drift around. If you can’t find someone willing to stick their hands into your fish tank, you can try multi-tasking. Some people even get creative and attach their aquascaping scissors to the end of the vacuum intake. Here is a great video on java moss trimming by AlanScaping.

    It is wise to switch off your filter while trimming to prevent leaves and branches from getting sucked up. Filters with pre-filter sponges over their intakes are also very handy for planted tanks.

    Vacuuming your Java moss as part of your normal cleaning and maintenance routine is a good idea to remove any detritus that could settle in the moss and result in changes to water quality.

    Java moss carpets made with mesh or moss attached to driftwood can also be removed from the tank and rinsed off using water removed during a water change.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Java moss isn’t very picky about water parameters. When it comes to pH, Java moss grows fine from 5 through 8 and does well in hard or soft water.

    It is grown over a pretty wide range of temperatures, from 64 right up to 86ยฐF. They do show a preference for slightly cooler conditions, however, and tend to grow best in aquariums from 70-75 ยฐF.

    Water Quality

    Java moss actually helps to improve water quality by soaking up excess nutrients from fish food and waste. This doesn’t mean you don’t have to stay on top of your water quality, however, because nutrient-rich conditions tend to favor algae growth.

    One of the most effective ways for aquarists to maintain good water quality is to perform regular partial water changes. This is important because often your filter alone can’t keep the water safe and harmful chemicals can build up over time.

    Get into the routine of doing a water change regularly every week or two, and always remember to use a water conditioner to make tap water safe for your moss and livestock.

    Filtration

    One of the downsides of Java moss is the tiny leaves and branches getting sucked up into aquarium filters and clogging up the filter media. This is especially likely after trimming your Java moss, or if your plants grow unattached in your tank. Lots of filter maintenance should be done and broken pieces of moss should be removed immediately to prevent excess ammonia production and algae growth. Consider a quality power filter for smaller aquarium or a canister filter for larger setups.

    Flow

     Java moss grows best in tanks with good flow. Not too powerful, but enough to keep water circulating through the plants to provide fresh water to the inner stems and prevent waste from settling on the plants.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance is an essential part of the hobby and is also an important part of growing vibrant and healthy Java moss. Let’s take a closer look at how to maintain your aquarium.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Even though Java moss can grow in a pretty wide range of conditions, it’s always a good idea to test your water regularly. This is pretty quick and easy to do using a simple test kit from your local aquarium store and will help you keep an eye on the health of your aquarium.

    The best time to test is before adding any plants to your aquarium, and then just before each water change. In this way, you’ll know the parameters of your local water, and whether you’re performing water changes often enough.

    How To Set Up Your Tank

     Java moss has no specific tank requirements really. It is such a versatile plant that it can grow in most aquariums, provided your parameters are compatible with its needs. Your choice of substrate is not really important at all.

    If you don’t have any sort of prefilter over the intake of the filter in the tank, consider buying a model that does or you can rig your own if you’re handy. Just be sure that whatever you use does not restrict the flow too much because this will put some strain on the motor and reduce the effectiveness of your filter.

    Java moss is great for just about any tank size, from nano tanks of just a few gallons and up. This moss will spread to dominate a very small tank though so you’ll need to stay on top of trimming.

    How To Propagate

    The Java moss plant is one of the easiest live aquatic plants to propagate. Simply divide the plant by cutting or tearing a few stems off a clump and attach them to the hardscape or allow them to float.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Good Health

    Healthy Java moss plants should have a vibrant green coloration and be soft but not fall apart too easily. Out of the water, this plant will be very limp but should have great texture underwater.

    Signs Of Poor Health

    Avoid Java moss that is turning yellow or brown. Adding unhealthy Java moss to your tank that is already brown and falling apart is a bad idea and will probably just result in a mess.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Algae

    One of the most common health issues with Java moss is your carpet getting covered in algae. One way to treat this problem is to dose the affected plant with a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide works wonders for killing algae, but it can also kill your fish, inverts if not used carefully.

    A rule to live by when it comes to using chemicals in your fish tank is: use as little as possible to get the job done. Remember, if you haven’t used enough, you can always try again next week, but if you use too much, the results is devastating.

    As with all algae growth issues, it is far more effective to focus on the cause of the problem rather than treating it with chemicals. The most common causes are:

    • Light that is too powerful and/or on for too long each day
    • An imbalance of light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide in the system
    Java Moss and Shrimp

    Algae eating animals is very helpful for algae control in general as well. It must be noted that not all algae eaters will feed on every variety of algae. Some examples of algae eaters include:

    Of course, before adding any algae eater to your tank, make sure your tank is big enough and set up correctly for that species.

    Melt

    It is very common for aquatic plants to ‘melt’ when first introduced to your tank. This happens because the conditions in your tank are different from what the plant has been used to, and it needs to go through an adjustment period.

    While adjusting, Parts of the plant will change color, eventually dying and rotting away. It is better to cut away any dying foliage and remove them from your tank, rather than leaving them to rot and affect your water quality.

    Nutrient Deficiencies

    Java moss does not need much in the way of nutrients, but if you do find your plants are losing color, you may want to try dosing a fertilizer with iron and macronutrients.

    Use fertilizers in moderation though, too much can cause algae problems.

    Plant Pests

    Because of the dense and tangled nature of Java moss, it’s very easy for unwanted pests and parasites to hitch a ride from the farm where they were grown, or your local aquarium store, and into your tank.  

    To prevent this, rinse the plant out with water from your fish tank when you get it home. Never use straight tap water for this because it can contain harmful chemicals that will damage your moss.

    A very weak solution of 20 parts water to one part bleach makes a great pest-killing dip. Dip your moss in the solution for about a minute and then rinse it out carefully and thoroughly in water with a dechlorinator before adding the moss to your aquarium.

    Where To Buy

    Java moss is a very popular in the aquarium trade is widely available. You can pick up this plant pretty cheaply from your local aquarium store. Apart from physically visiting pet stores, a more convenient option is to order your aquarium plants online. The link in the box below will take you to retailers who sell quality Java moss. Check it out!

    FAQS

    Is it good for aquariums?

    Java moss is a great plant for aquariums. It provides a safe refuge for fry and small animals while oxygenating the water and soaking up excess nutrients in the water column.

    How fast does it grow?

    Java moss have a slow to moderate growth rate. The growing speed does vary a lot depending on the conditions in the tank, however. It is possible to speed up Java moss growth with better lighting and CO2 injection and fertilizers, provided you keep everything in balance to avoid algae problems.

    How do you keep this type of moss alive?

    Java moss is a very easy aquarium plant to keep alive. It is tough and adaptable and it thrives in most freshwater aquariums. Make sure your tank setup and parameters match this plant’s needs and you should have no problem.

    Can brown moss turn green again?

    Fully brown Java moss is dead and should be removed from your tank before it breaks apart and rots. Naturally, you want to give your plant the benefit of the doubt of course, and if there are any healthy green branches, they may well pull through and regrow.

    A safe option is to remove the dying moss from your tank and see if you can grow it in a separate container filled with your tank water, that way if it doesn’t bounce back, you won’t have to worry about it spoiling in your tank.

    Closing Thoughts

    Java moss is a really fun and versatile plant that is great for all planted tank enthusiasts, from beginners all the way to professional aquarists.

    Making Java moss grow is as simple as dropping some in the aquarium or as interesting as making moss trees and walls with suction cups. This is definitely one plant that everyone should consider growing.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Acan Coral Care – How To Care For Your New Coral

    Acan Coral Care – How To Care For Your New Coral

    After growing corals in my own reef setups, if your parameters are not stable, this coral will not survive the first month. Corals do not die from wrong numbers. They die from unstable numbers. The difference between a thriving reef and a dying one is consistency, not perfection.

    Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

    If you just got a new Acan coral for your reef tank and are wondering how to care for it, read on! Acan corals are one of the most popular types of coral in the hobby. They come in many colors and shapes, so if you’re looking to fill up some space with color, this is a great option. Let’s go deeper with the essentials on Acan Coral Care so you can have a thriving colony yourself!

    A Quick Overview

    Scientific NameAcanthastrea spp.
    Common NamesAcans and micros, largely named after their designer names
    FamilyLobophylliidae
    OriginWidely found throughout the Indo-Pacific (Fiji, Australia, Tonga, Solomon Islands) 1
    Common ColorsPurples, blues, greens, oranges, yellows, reds
    Care LevelEasy
    TemperamentAggressive
    LightingLow-Moderate (50-150 PAR)
    Tank PlacementBottom, Middle
    Flow RateLow-Moderate
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0. 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8. 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350. 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250. 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Acan corals originate from the tropical waters around Fiji, Australia, Tonga, and the Solomon Islands. They form large colonies often found on the seabed or near the bottom of the rockwork of shallow reefs (30-50m).

    Most acans available within the hobby today come from Australia. However, these corals are popular to aquaculture because many wild acans arrive with bacterial infections; aquaculture also gives better control over color expression and subsequent designer names as well as growth rates.

    Taxonomy And Naming

    Acan corals are abbreviated after their taxonomic genus, Acanthastrea. There are several large polyp stony coral (LPS) species within Acanthastrea, though only Acanthastrea echinata and Acanthastrea bowerbanki are widely kept in the saltwater aquarium hobby. 

    Micromussa lordhowensis (named after their discovery near Lord Howe Island) used to be classified under Acanthastrea, but was recently moved to the Micromussa genus. Now, these corals may still be referred to as their popular name, acan ‘lord’, or simply called micros. It’s an LPS coral with lots of hobby names!

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Does An Acan Coral Look Like

    An Acan coral is easy to identify, though their flattened, suction-cup appearance will resemble Blastomussa spp., species of brain coral (Mussidae and Merulinidae families), or even chalice corals (Echinophyllia spp.). Their fleshy polyps as a lot of interest contrast other corals in the display tank.

    In general, acan corals form tight colonies with puffy outer rims and deeper, flatter centers. The outside is a different color from the inside and might display a gradient of color. In healthy and/or hungry acan coral colony, clear tentacles will be visible along the inner rim of the mouth. A single acan coral polyp stays under an inch in diameter when fully grown, but larger species may be closer to two inches.

    The different species of acan corals is difficult to tell apart from each other, though their requirements in reef aquariums are all relatively similar. Here are some ways to tell the most common three species apart:

    • Acanthastrea echinata is most commonly found in variations of red, orange, and green, but may be found in other colors as well. These corals are in between M. Lordhowensis and A. Bowerbanki in regards to the size. They have a smooth appearance and are flatter than these other species as well.
    • Acanthastrea bowerbanki is the largest species of acan coral out of these three. They are flattened and have a bumpy texture. In colonies, they take on irregular shapes.
    • Species of Micromussa lordhowensis are referred to micros due to their small size in comparison to the two other species. These are some of the most colorful acan coral and can come in many different colors and patterns.

    As mentioned before, the acan coral is largely marketed based on appearance. Some of the most desirable acan corals show the best colors, like ‘rainbow’ and ‘ultra’ variations.

    Acan Coral Care

    These corals are not demanding and can thrive in places of the saltwater aquarium where other species might lack light. However, their colors, size, and growth rate largely depend on the type of light they’re being kept under as well as how often they’re being fed.

    An Acan coral are a low to moderate light coral, which means that they will do best on or near the sandbed. They need moderate water flow to keep food moving past their clear center tentacles and to keep debris from building up in between the colony. If given ideal conditions with room to grow, they will quickly take over an isolated rock island.

    However, can acan coral is very aggressive even though they lack the long sweeper tentacles of other LPS corals. Some hobbyists choose to keep them on the main rockwork of the display, but this can quickly become a problem once the acans get close to other corals; allowing the acan coral to grow on the rockwork also creates a flatter shape whereas they will create a more circular colony on an island.

    Different species of acan coral should not be placed together. Unlike other corals that are compatible within the same genus, members of Acanthastrea are incompatible with each other and will start to attack the other if placed too closely together.

    Do They Like High Light?

    Acans can actually be kept at most levels of the reef tank. However, they vary in size and color under different lighting conditions. An acan coral kept under LED lighting will look much different from one kept under T5HO lighting. This is tricky purchasing an acan coral in-store or online as they will likely change color once introduced into a home system.

    In general, an acan coral does best under low to moderate lighting. This gives some freedom for placement, filling in shaded areas of the reef tank and bringing color to the sandbed.

    Are They Difficult To Keep?

    Overall, the acan coral is one of the easiest lps corals to care for and beginner-friendly. Unfortunately, they are not favored by most beginners though.

    Acans do not bring exciting movement to the reef tank like other LPS coral like Euphyllia that wave in the water current. On top of this, they do not grow fast and hobbyists is left wanting more.Many of the cheaper varieties are much less colorful than the more desirable ones, so there is no real incentive to waste space on one of these seemingly boring corals.

    However, acans are very hardy and can adapt to most tank conditions. Their low lighting requirements make them a perfect addition for hard-to-fill shaded areas in the aquarium. Once the tank has become established enough, it’s more than worth it to go for the pricier varieties to bring a pop of color to dark areas of the reef tank.

    Maintenance

    Acan Coral

    An Acan coral does best in stable conditions with good water quality, unmoved and unbothered. Because these corals are naturally slow-growers, it’s extremely important to keep conditions favorable to prevent delaying the growing process any further.

    As a species of LPS coral, the acan coral needs nutrients to build its calcium carbonate skeleton. This includes some nitrates, magnesium, calcium, and trace elements; most importantly, the tank cannot be overly clean, or else your corals will not thrive. Alkalinity also needs to be stable in order for the rest of the system to be stable.

    Acan corals do not need any special care and can successfully be kept with sump filtration, a canister filter, or a simple hang on the back filter. A protein skimmer is not necessary and not recommended for low-nutrient systems.

    If keeping large colonies of acan coral or keeping SPS coral, it is recommended to dose those nutrients needed. However, acans are eager eaters and can get most of their nutrition through regular feedings.

    Feeding

    Though acan corals might not be the most exciting to watch in the reef aquarium, they’re one of the favorites to feed. These corals will accept most foods most of the time. You can tell they are hungry as they release their small, inner clear tentacles; some hobbyists have trained their acan coral colony to show these tentacles at feeding times.

    Otherwise, a healthy acan coral should have its feeding tentacles out a majority of the time. If you don’t see yours during the day, check back when the tank lights are shutting off and shortly after. If you still don’t see tentacles, make sure the coral looks healthy otherwise.

    Most hobbyists consider feeding acan corals a must for success. Yes, they can sustain themselves with the nutrients available in the water column, but additional feedings really make them thrive. You check out this video by The Reefer for a nice overview on feeding an acan coral.

    What Do They Eat?

    These corals is fed a variety of foods and are very willing to try new things. Unlike other LPS coral, acans are relatively quick to eat. Simply place the food in the center of the polyp and the coral will start to eat almost immediately.

    This makes feeding easier as you’re not dealing with hungry fish or invertebrates that are trying to steal the food away. Good acan coral food options are fresh or frozen krill, brine shrimp, Mysis shrimp, and bloodworms as well as larger pieces of seafood, like fish, shrimp, and mollusks. Acan corals can also be fed coral powders and pellets, like Reef-Roids.

    Some hobbyists like to feed their acans every day, though this can start to cause nutrient buildup from the leftovers. Instead, target feed your acan corals 2-3 times a week. This may be done at night as this is when their tentacles are most present. They really live foods like Reef Roids. Make sure to feed each head.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    These corals is kept with most species of fish and invertebrates. With any reef aquarium system, you want to avoid species that are not reef-safe, like puffers, angels, and triggers. Keep in mind that most crabs are also not reef-safe.

    Some better reef safe fish would be:

    While gobies and blennies are reef-safe, they may choose to use your acan coral as a perch which will cause the coral to retract. Though this doesn’t directly injure the coral, it can interfere with photosynthesis and nutrient intake. It is also very unlikely that the coral will grow or reproduce if it is constantly stressed by a fish or invertebrate walking over it.

    Fragging

    Not only do acan corals grow slower than most other LPS coral species, but they can also be more difficult to frag. This is because the skeleton of the colony is connected throughout and can only be separated by an electric saw or a very careful bone cutter.

    If using an electric saw, simply cut the coral around the contour of the polyp. Make sure to never cut through the polyp as this will most likely kill it. Attach the frag to a piece of rock or frag plug and make sure to dip it in iodine or another coral solution; acan corals are very susceptible to bacterial infections and a dip will help keep the coral healthy and speed up recovery.

    If using a bone cutter, the process is the same. However, you need to be much more careful with where you cut and to make sure you don’t accidentally split the skeleton elsewhere in the colony as this could damage the whole colony. Given how precise you need to be when fragging Acan, I prefer a bandsaw like a Gryphon.

    My Pick For Pro Fragging
    Gryphon Bandsaw

    Best For Pro Fraggers

    The Gryphon Bandsaw is a high quality commercial fragging tool. Made in the USA and equipped with a diamond band saw. This is used to cut the highest quality, cleanest cuts possible for coral fraggers!

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    How Fast Do Acan Corals Grow?

    It is agreed that acan corals grow very slowly, but once they get going, they will quickly fill up space. Be prepared to wait close to a year to see any signs of growth from your acan coral. From there, they can develop several new heads at a time within a couple of weeks.

    Why Is It Dying?

    There are a few reasons why your acan coral is dying. Some of the most common explanations are nutrients, light, other corals, or fish/invertebrates.

    1. Acan corals need nutrients to survive. For the last decade, hobbyists were convinced that all water parameters needed to be 0 ppm. This starved the corals and left hobbyists wondering what they were doing wrong. Acan corals need these nutrients from the water column to grow. This can then be supplemented with additional feedings. If your coral is lacking in color or not fully extending, test for nutrients.
    2. Remember, these corals prefer low light conditions. More light is not always better, though this is true for more advanced LPS corals and SPS species. With acan corals, less light is better for growth and color. If you think your acan coral is too high in the tank and changes color or is retracted, then it probably is. Try slowly moving it to a more shaded area of the reef aquarium. They don’t like being in too much light!
    3. Acan corals are pretty aggressive corals. They have been known to engage in coral warfare more even aggressive LPS coral and SPS corals and win. However, they lack sweeper tentacles so their defenses are limited. If they are being stung by a coral with longer tentacles, they may be taking damage. Take a look into your tank at night and look for any corals that have their tentacles extended. Move the acan coral if necessary.
    4. Finally, your acan coral is dying because it doesn’t get the chance to fully extend without being walked over or picked at by a fish or invertebrate. Observe your tank a few times throughout the day and take a headcount of where everything is. Watch how snails, hermit crabs, urchins, blennies, and gobies move throughout the day.

    Acan corals are pretty hardy and are not ones to die overnight without any explanation. Most likely, one of the reasons listed above is why your coral is not thriving.

    Make changes, but remember to do them slowly. Too many changes all at once can also damage your acan coral and unbalance your entire system.

    Closing Thoughts

    Acan corals aren’t the most popular coral, but they’re one of the easiest to care for and funniest to feed. Unfortauntely, they have been designated designer names which can make the more desirable varieties unattainable for some hobbyists. Luckily, the three species, Acanthastrea echinata, Acanthastrea bowerbanki, and Micromussa lordhowensis, give plenty of options. Even the simplest-colored acan coral can bring additional color and life to an otherwise dark and empty space of your tank!

    We hope you’ve enjoyed this blog post about Acan coral care. If it’s been inspiring and informative for you, we’d love to hear from you in the comments! What do your favorite coral varieties have that others don’t? Do they require different care or feeding than other species? Let us know below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • How Long Do Goldfish Live? (Its Longer Than You Think!)

    How Long Do Goldfish Live? (Its Longer Than You Think!)

    Goldfish are not easy. They produce more waste than fish three times their price and need more space than most people realize. A single goldfish needs 20 gallons minimum and heavy filtration. Most goldfish deaths come from undersized tanks and inadequate filtration.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    The appeal of goldfish as pets is undeniable. They’re cute, active, and beautiful, on top of being relatively easy to care for.

    Yet, despite this, something you’ll commonly hear about goldfish is that they don’t live very long. And unfortunately, that’s become true for most goldfish in captivity… But not for the reasons you might believe.

    You see, it’s not that goldfish have inherently short lifespans. It’s that most people, especially those with insufficient fishkeeping knowledge/experience, don’t know what it takes to keep a goldfish alive for its true average lifespan.

    So the question, how long do goldfish live, doesnโ€™t have a straight answer. It all depends on how well theyโ€™re being brought up. Find out more below!

    How Long Do Goldfish Live?

    Assuming that the goldfish is healthy and treated with care, its life expectancy can go up to 15-20 years1.

    There are even records of some slim-bodied goldfish, like the feeder or common goldfish and comet goldfish, living up to 40 years in an outdoor pond, where the natural habitat of a goldfish is most closely mimicked.

    Meanwhile, fancy goldfish lifespan ranges from 7-12 years. This is because compared to slim-bodied goldfish, they are much frailer. Their biological processes are also much easier to disrupt due to their organs being packed into a small, squat, round body.

    Even the bubble eye, which makes certain species like the black moor so popular, is a cause of lower life expectancy. In general, slim bodied goldfish can live longer than fancy ones.

    Lifespan of Different Goldfish Types

    Wondering how long do goldfish live? Here are the average goldfish lifespans of the most commonly sought types of goldfish:

    Goldfish NameGoldfish TypeAverage Lifespan (Tank)Average Lifespan (Pond)
    Common GoldfishSlim-bodied12 – 20 years20 years or more
    Comet GoldfishSlim-bodied10 – 12 years15 – 20 years
    Oranda GoldfishFancy Goldfish10 – 12 years10 – 15 years
    Fantail GoldfishFancy Goldfish10 – 12 years10 – 15 years

    Why Do Goldfish Die So Easily?

    Why Do Goldfish Die So Easily

    If youโ€™ve been paying attention, youโ€™ve figured out by now that the expected lifespan of your goldfish actually exceeds that of your other seemingly smarter and stronger house pets, like your dog or cat.

    Yet, itโ€™s more and more common to see that goldfish kept as pets don’t make it past 5 years of life. And this leaves a lot of confused first-time goldfish owners asking why their goldfish died so soon and how they can ensure a longer lifespan for their other goldfish.

    So, a lot of it comes down to the care and living conditions of the goldfish.

    If you can ensure healthy living conditions and tank or pond water quality for your goldfish, you can expect them to live out their expected lifespan of 15-20 years.

    However, for goldfish cooped up in a little bowl or small tank, kept in unclean water containing significant amounts of waste, or not given a varied diet, the average life expectancy is 2-5 years.

    Whoa, thatโ€™s a lot of information.

    But itโ€™s not even the start.

    Wondering where you went wrong? Find out below.

    How to Increase Goldfish Life Expectancy

    How To Increase Goldfish Life Expectancy

    Like all other beings on the planet, the lifespan of a goldfish is determined by how healthy it is. And ensuring that health is on you who are charged with their care. If you’re new to keeping these fish, don’t freak out. Here is how to extend that lifespan. With lots of care, maybe you to can raise a goldfish like Tish, who was the oldest goldfish. Tished lived to be 43 years! Let’s look at these 9 actionable tips before to get you started right!

    1. Clean the Tank Regularly

    Good water quality is of utmost importance if you want to facilitate a long goldfish lifespan. Especially considering how much waste they produce, itโ€™s crucial to carry out frequent water changes to prevent toxicity. Always do your routine water changes and look into top notch filtration. You should regularly test your water to ensure you maintain lower nitrate levels and not have dangerous levels of ammonia or nitrite.

    Additionally, get used to using your own intuition. Check how the water looks and how it smells. If you feel something is wrong, trust your gut and whip out your water testing kit. Prevention is always better than cure when it comes to the increasing life expectancy of fish.

    2. Feed Your Goldfish a Healthy Diet

    What most people think of as โ€œfish food,โ€ which are pellets and flakes, are actually more proprietary food than anything else.

    So when we say “healthy diet,” we, of course, mean a varied, omnivorous diet. You want to give your goldfish a little bit of everything: pellets and flakes, some vegetables, live foods like worms and shrimp, and even fruit sometimes, to keep health problems at bay.

    There is a comprehensive guide I have posted all about what do goldfish eat. Check out the guide. You will be blow away at what you can feed your goldfish!  

    3. Donโ€™t Overfeed Your Goldfish

    If youโ€™ve had your goldfish a while, you will have noticed by now that they will eat almost anything at any time. In fact, as long as it can fit in their mouth, these omnivorous creatures will attempt to swallow almost any object. All types of goldfish do this.

    Yes, itโ€™s cute watching a goldfish gobble up the food you lovingly give them. But you must not be tempted to overfeed them. Itโ€™s very easy for goldfish to get digestive health problems like bloating and constipation. It might even lead to swim bladder disease.

    As a consequence, this will lead to a reduced goldfish lifespan.

    4. Maintain the Water Temperature

    If you want your fish to live long, you have to try to make sure that your goldfish tank mimics their natural habitat as closely as possible. An important component of this is maintaining the right water temperature.

    For fancy goldfish, the optimum temperature is between 65ยฐ to 72ยฐF, while for slim-bodied goldfish (like the common goldfish), the right temperature range is 60ยฐ to 72ยฐF. Make sure you do proper research on the breed of goldfish you have.

    If the temperature is too high, your goldfish will experience higher metabolism. Although this will cause them to grow bigger at a faster rate, it will shorten their lifespan. If you keep your goldfish in a pond and it freezes over in the winter, consider investing in a pond de-icer.

    5. Give Your Goldfish the Space They Need

    Goldfish in a Pond

    Film, TV, and children’s books have had us believing for years that a goldfish survive in a little fish bowls. This is absolutely incorrect and a sure-fire way to your goldfish to have a short lifespan.

    The average lifespan of a goldfish in the wild is from 20-40 years, mainly because they have a lot of space to swim around in, less stress, and stable conditions.

    So when forced to circle in one spot, e.g., in a bowl, a goldfish gets extremely stressed. And when that stress reaches its apex, your pet could die.

    Not to mention, once again, goldfish produce a lot. And we really mean a lot. Of waste. The smaller their tank, the more quickly and easily it will fill up with toxic goldfish waste and lead to your pet dying.

    That’s why goldfish need a large aquarium size. One goldfish needs at least a 20 gallon fish tank to live in. And for every new goldfish you add, you must add another 10 gallons. So, donโ€™t crowd your goldfish in small tanks.

    6. Provide Adequate Filtration

    This is, of course, true not only for goldfish but for any other pet fish. But given how much these guys love to poop, itโ€™s absolutely essential to providing filtration for your goldfish tanks. A moderate filtration rate should be alright in goldfish tanks. Look to provide a high amount of biological filtration to manage the heavy bioload they add to your tank.

    7. Choose Tank Mates Wisely

    Not all fish should be kept with one another. This includes different goldfish species.

    The bodies of fancy goldfish, as you may already know, are quite weak and slow compared to goldfish with slim bodies. As such, they should not be kept in the same tank because stronger fish almost always prey on weaker ones and will outcompete them for food.

    8. Put Your Goldfish in a Pond

    If you have very delicate fancy goldfish like pearlscales, ignore this bit. Their genetics make it hard for them to survive in ponds.

    On the other hand, if you have long goldfish of the slim-bodied variety, such as common goldfish, comets, and shubunkins, the best thing you can do to increase their lifespan is to put them in a freshwater pond.

    In the wild, goldfish live in freshwater streams and ponds. Seasonal variations, plenty of sunlight, and naturally available sources of varied foods (e.g., plants, insects, larvae) all make an outdoor pond the best place for a goldfish to enjoy a longer lifespan.

    Even some varieties of fancy goldfish, like the fantail variety, is kept in a pond by fish keepers who are willing to put in the extra effort to create healthy conditions for them.

    You might have to use implements such as a pond heater. Adjusting the pH is another concern, as well as preventing predators. Like birds. From feasting on your goldfish (because, after all, being eaten is an effective way to shorten anyone’s lifespan).

    9. Ensure Proper Bacteria Levels

    One of the best ways to ensure a long and healthy life for your goldfish is to allow bacteria to thrive in their tank.

    Why? Because bacteria keep goldfish waste in check.

    Not only do goldfish love to eat and donโ€™t know when to stop eating, they. Quite predictably. Are known to produce very large amounts of waste. And this waste contains toxins like nitrite and ammonia, which, when existing in large amounts in your goldfish tank, can damage your fishโ€™s gills and even cause brain damage.

    The result? Stress, a shortened lifespan, a sick fish, and maybe even death.

    In freshwater bodies, the natural habitat of goldfish, the water conditions include naturally occurring bacteria that break down the goldfish’s waste. In a home aquarium, however, there are no bacteria. That’s why one of the ways of proper care of goldfish is introducing bacteria into their tank. This starts with a proper cycle.

    Hereโ€™s how to do it.

    How to Introduce Healthy Bacteria into Your Goldfish Tank

    Letโ€™s take you through all the necessary steps.

    Step 1: Remove Chlorine from the Tank

    One of the most common mistakes new goldfish owners make in fish care is bringing their goldfish home to an unprepared tank. Some people think itโ€™s as easy as bringing the goldfish home and dumping it/them in the tank.

    This is far from the truth. You need to prep your tank for your goldfish weeks and sometimes even months in advance, depending on the breed and amount of goldfish.

    Start by ridding your goldfishโ€™s new abode of chlorine. Use a conditioner to do this. Although chlorine is helpful in our drinking and bathing water, it inhibits bacteria growth in a fish tank.

    Step 2: Allow Bacteria Into the Fish Tank

    Once the chlorine is out, the bacteria will start pouring in pretty much all on its own. Not only from the air and the water itself but also from the plants and rocks you use to decorate your aquarium. Even commercially sold bacteria culture is easy to access these days. Fritz Turbo Start is my favorite bacteria for freshwater tanks.

    My Pick For Freshwater Bacteria
    Fritz Turbo Start 700 Freshwater

    Fritz Turbo Start is known in the industry as the fastest acting nitrifying bacteria you can purchase. This 700 version is specialized for freshwater tank and has my highest recommendation

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    But your work for your fish doesnโ€™t end there.

    Step 3: Drop Some Goldfish Food (Or ammonia) in the Tank

    I know, it sounds a little silly right now; why put fish food in a fish tank with no fish?

    Because it allows your bacteria to start doing their job.

    Use fish flakes or pellets for this purpose. When this food disintegrates inside the tank, it will release ammonia. The bacteria, in turn, will consume this ammonia. In a few weeks, you will have a self-sustaining bacteria ecosystem inside your fish tank.

    A more modern technique would be to use ammonia from a manufacturer like Dr. Tim’s Aquatics. This is what I’m used to doing for my fresh only systems. Once you have no ammonia and nitrites reading when you test your water, it’s time to add goldfish!

    Step 4: Make Regular Water Checks

    This is very important if you want to sustain healthy living conditions for your goldfish. Why not get yourself a water testing kit to regularly check water parameters? Itโ€™ll make your life a lot easier. Do your water changes to keep your nitrates down.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    1.   How long can a goldfish live in a bowl?

    If you’re wondering how long can goldfish live in a bowl: not longer than 2 to 3 years. Goldfish bowls are not large enough to sustain a goldfish, which means leaving yours in a bowl will cause your goldfish to be underdeveloped and stressed.

    Consider that a single goldfish requires at least 20 gallons of water to thrive before putting yours in a bowl.

    2.   Why do goldfish die so easily?

    The most common reasons for the lifespan of a goldfish being shortened are ammonia poisoning, excessive nitrate levels, and being kept in a tank that’s too small, among other reasons.

    Therefore, you should make it a point to ensure that your goldfish’s tank water is clean and of good quality and provide them enough space to move around. Remember, one goldfish requires at least 20 gallons of water to thrive.

    3.   How big can a goldfish get?

    In captivity, slim-bodied goldfish can grow up to 10 inches. Fancy goldfish will grow to 6-8 inches. In the wild, these fish might grow up to 12-14 inches in length.

    The largest ever recorded goldfish, owned by a man in the Netherlands, measured 18.7 inches.

    4.   What kind of goldfish live the longest?

    Species of goldfish that live the longest are the common goldfish, shubunkins, and comets. These slim-bodied goldfish types do require a lot of tank space compared to fancy goldfish but have been known to live longer than 10 years.

    5.   What is the average lifespan of a pet goldfish?

    On average, pet goldfish live 10 to 15 years. However, if if they aren’t kept in good housing conditions, they will live no longer than 5 years.

    6.   How long can goldfish go without food?

    Up to 2 weeks, depending on their health.

    Closing Thoughts

    Out of all the aquarium fish varieties you might choose to populate your home, goldfish are known to live the longest, with proper care. So, it really is a crying shame that these fish have developed a reputation for dying easily and quickly.

    Donโ€™t help to keep this idea alive. Whether in a tank or pond, treat your goldfish with love and care, and above all, humanely. And they will stay alive as long as they can to keep making you go awww at all of their little fish antics.

    We hope the tips in our article have helped. We wish your goldfish a long and beautiful life!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Amazon Sword Care – A How To Guide

    Amazon Sword Care – A How To Guide

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    The Amazon sword is one of the best-known and most popular aquarium plants in the hobby. Amazon Sword Care is great stepping stone for beginners to more advanced plants and looks good in any tank. One of the Amazon sword’s best selling points is its ease of care. These plants thrive in low-tech setups and ask very little of the aquarist in terms of maintenance.

    Most planted tank owners who have an Amazon Sword plant know that they need to be trimmed and shaped. But what else should you do for them? This blog post will tell you all about how to care for your Amazon Swords, from trimming to fertilizing. Don’t worry! It’s a lot easier than it sounds ๐Ÿ˜

    A Brief Overview Of The Amazon Sword

    Scientific Name Echinodorus amazonicus/ Echinodorus bleheri/ Echinodorus grisebachii
    Common Names Amazon sword
    Family Alismataceae
    Origin Brazil, South America
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting low-high, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Mid ground or Background Plant
    Flow Rate Low
    Temperature Range 72. 82 F
    Height 4. 20 inches
    pH Range 6.5 – 7.5
    Propagation Transplant adventitious shoots
    Growth Rate Moderate
    Feed Type Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement No

    Origins And Habitat

    The Amazon sword plant originates from the Amazon basin in the tropical South American rainforests of Brazil. There they grow in slow-flowing or still waters to a depth of 2-3 feet.

    What Does This Plant Look Like?

    How Does Amazon Sword Look Like

     The Amazon sword is a medium to large freshwater aquarium plant. They have an upright growth form with many leaves growing from a very short stem. The large leaves are held singly on upright leaf stalks. It is classified as a rosette plant1.

    Each leaf has a prominent mid-vein and secondary veins that run more or less parallel with the margin.

    When grown emersed, these plants tend to grow shorter, with smaller and wider leaf blades. Submerged plants in the aquarium have leaves that can measure as much as 16 inches long and 4-8 inches across.

    The leaves are thin but firm and have a deep and dark green color with pointed tips. Amazon swords grow from a well-developed root system. The roots grow by spreading widely in the substrate

    Placement And Lighting

     It is best to plant your Amazon sword plant in the midground or background of a freshwater aquarium. These aquatic plants will grow pretty large so keep this in mind when planning your aquascape.

    In nature, the Amazon sword plant grows in environments with fluctuating water depth so light intensity does vary with seasons and weather conditions. This makes them pretty adaptable to a range of light intensities.

    Amazon swords don’t necessarily need powerful plant lighting but will grow well under a variety of light conditions. Ideally, you want to aim for about 2-3 watts per gallon.

    If you do plan on growing this plant in low light, make sure it is planted in an open area of the tank with good exposure.

    Amazon swords work great in nature aquariums and can also be used as an accent or specimen plant. They are perfect for amazon biotopes.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    The Amazon sword plant is a great addition to most nature aquariums and works well with the majority of smaller community fish species.

    When considering new livestock for your aquarium, remember that every species needs to be adapted to the same conditions and parameters.

    Most tropical freshwater aquarium fish that enjoy the same water parameters as the amazon sword will make great tank mates.

    Good Tank Mates

    These plants are often used in South American cichlid and discus tanks. Being a tropical South American plant, they are an obvious choice for Amazon biotopes. Ideal freshwater fish for this style of nature aquarium include:

    Some aquarists keep Amazon sword plants successfully in their goldfish tanks. While this is possible, the temperature preferences of both the goldfish and the plant should be considered.

    Amazon Swords grow enormous. A plant that fits in your hand at the store will dominate a 55 gallon tank within months. Buy one knowing it will take over.

    Goldfish will also feed on the plants to an extent, but fortunately, Amazon swords are robust and produce new leaves quite regularly.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    It is no surprise that freshwater fish like plecos, goldfish, and silver dollars will be very quick to feed on your amazon swords.

    Large fish like Oscars that tend to disturb plants while they feed or for territorial reasons should also be avoided, particularly if the plant is rooted in a loose substrate like sand. African cichlids are also problematic as they will dig out the plant.

    The Amazon sword plant will also be on the menu for ramshorn and bladder snails, but these inverts will only eat leaves that are already unhealthy or decaying.

    Feeding (Fertilization)

     In smaller aquariums, you probably want to avoid growing Amazon swords in a nutrient-rich substrate. By growing them in a low nutrient environment, it will be much easier to keep them to a manageable size.

    For optimum growth, however, regular feeding will definitely be appreciated.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Amazon swords are root feeders first and foremost, so provided they are grown in good aquarium soil, feeding will not be strictly needed. If grown in an inert substrate like sand or gravel though, you’ll want to use aquarium fertilizers suited for rooted plants like root tabs.

    Root tabs offer a long-lasting output but their performance does vary so follow the instructions on the product you have and keep an eye on your plant’s performance.

    Even well-balanced aquarium soils will eventually leach out and then supplementing with root tabs is a great option.

    Root-feeding aquatic plants can also benefit from column fertilizers since there are a few important nutrients that root tabs often lack. These are the macro-nutrients of nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium. Tropica Root Tabs are the best in the business when it comes to a complete and reasonably priced root tab product.

    Providing macro supplements after each weekly water change is recommended for the most vigorous growth and Amazon swords will also benefit from a regular iron supplement.

    CO2 Injection

    The amazon sword plant grows just fine without CO2 injection. Maintaining a healthy aquatic plant is all about balance though, so in some cases, CO2 will be helpful.

    A plant that is grown under strong lighting, for example, may well develop problems with algae growth on the leaf surfaces if not provided with extra carbon dioxide. A CO2 system is a good investment if you are planning a mass planted tank or amazon biotope setup.

    Types

    There are plenty of different Echinodorus plants available in the aquarium trade. Things often get a little confused in the hobby and the true identity of your plant isn’t always that certain.

    There are 3 plant species that are often called Amazon swords. Some say they are all the same, while others argue that each deserves its own name.

    These species are:

    • Echinodorus amazonicus
    • Echinodorus bleheri
    • Echinodorus grisebachii ย 

    Care

    The Amazon sword plant is pretty easy to care for and needs little maintenance once it is established in the home aquarium. Amazon swords do not need much in the way of trimming or pruning.

    You might want to trim some shoots if the plant is taking up too much room in your fish tank, but it is better to make sure your tank is large enough to accommodate this plant before you bring it home.

    If you do trim them, be sure to remove the leaf and stalk completely. Leaves that are cut in half will not survive.

    Like all plants, Amazon swords do have their preferences, so let’s take a closer look at their needs.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Amazon swords are ideal aquatic plants for tropical aquariums but they can also be grown in slightly cooler water. Their ideal water temperature is anywhere between 72-82 degrees Fahrenheit. You will want to plan a heater if you are keeping fish that like warmer water like Betta Fish or Discus Fish.

    Amazon swords do best in a pretty narrow pH level range and will grow best in water of Ph 6.5-7.5. Water hardness in the range of 8-12ยฐdGH is recommended.

    Water Quality

    Amazon swords are not particularly sensitive to water quality and like most aquarium plants, will improve water quality to an extent by taking up excess nutrients in the system.

    The most important factors for maintaining good water quality in the planted aquarium are:

    • Performing regular partial water changesย 
    • Using a water conditioner when adding new water
    • Cycling your tank before introducing fish
    • Stocking your fish tank with appropriate numbers and sizes of livestock
    • Not overfeeding your fish
    • Using adequate filtration
    • Protecting the beneficial bacteria in your filter media

    Filter

    A quality filter is one of the most important pieces of hardware in the aquarium. This is especially true in planted tanks.

    Amazon swords certainly do their bit in improving water quality in the aquarium, but cannot be considered a substitute for a good filter. Amazon swords have large leaves that can get sucked up against the intake of your filter so bear this in mind when choosing where to plant one. These large leaves can potentially be an ammonia producing factory if they break off and are left unattended. Filtration with lot of biological filtration is recommended. For large scapes, consider a quality canister filter.

    Flow

    The Amazon sword plant does not mind a bit of flow in the water. They are most suited to freshwater tanks with a low to moderate current, however.

    Although this plant is able to survive the stronger currents it experiences in nature during the rainy season, the Amazon sword is not adapted to grow in powerful rivers and will not thrive in those conditions.  

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintenance isn’t the most fun side of our hobby, but it is probably the most important. Your Amazon sword plant, like all your other plants and livestock, will look and live far better in a well-maintained tank.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Testing water conditions is an essential part of your regular maintenance routine. This is done quite easily with a test kit from your local pet shop.

    It is best to test your water before bringing an Amazon sword plant home to be sure your water parameters meet their needs.

    Concentrations of nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia can increase in time, especially in heavily stocked or uncycled aquariums. Be sure to test your water just before and just after a water change to get a feel for how stable your water conditions are.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    One very important factor to success when growing the Amazon sword is providing enough substrate depth for the extensive plant roots to develop fully. Aim to provide 2 or 3 inches of substrate for this plant.

    They are naturally adapted to grow in the fertile soils of the Amazon river basin and will therefore appreciate a rich aquarium soil.

    That being said, aquarists with smaller aquariums can also grow this plant in a sand substrate or fine aquarium gravel as this will result in slower growth and a more manageable plant at the end of the day.

    Considering the size that Amazon swords can reach in good conditions, 20 gallon tanks are the minimum recommended size. They can, however, be grown in smaller aquariums but they are likely to dominate something like a 10 gallon aquarium and limit the swimming space for your fish.

    How To Propagate

    Propagating new Amazon swords is very easy if you have a strong, established plant. The secret is to provide the parent plant with a healthy environment and a little time.

    The Amazon sword plant will produce a runner from its crown that extends along the surface of the substrate for a few inches to produce plantlets or daughter plants.

    This happens quite naturally and the plantlets will grow out in their position or they is moved. Wait for the plantlet to develop strong plant roots of its own and some healthy leaves before severing it from the parent plant.

    The plantlets can then be moved and replanted in the substrate as you wish, but be advised that these new plantlets will be more sensitive than mature Amazon swords.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Good Health

    Healthy Amazon sword plants will be all green in color and produce new leaves regularly. The plant will have an upright growth form and have leaves that are not dull or see-through.

    The leaves will grow to full size and be free of algae growth. Mature established plants will send out runners that produce daughter plants.

    Signs Of Poor Health

    Amazon sword leaves that are translucent or turn yellow or brown are occasionally noticed. This is often a sign of a mineral deficiency in the water.

    If you notice this problem, try supplementing your plants with iron and macros like nitrogen, potassium, and phosphorous. Any discolored or dying leaves should be removed to prevent ammonia production.

    This problem should not be confused with melt that often happens soon after planting. Here an article from the University of Florida that goes over common fungal issues.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Melt

    Often, many leaves will die off after first planting a new aquarium plant in your tank. This is a common problem that is known as melting.

    It happens for a few reasons but it can happen to even the healthiest Amazon swords, even in ideal water parameters. Melt happens as a result of shock from being set in different conditions to what the plant has been grown or kept in.

    Aquarium plants are often farmed emersed. Once submerged under the water, the existing leaves may not survive this radical change, but this doesn’t mean the entire plant is in trouble., the plant will produce new growth that is adapted to the new conditions.

    It is important to remove melting leaves from your aquarium before they decay and break up in the water. Rotting leaves are not only unsightly, but they can also affect your water quality.

    Even in healthy, established specimens, diseased or unhealthy leaves should be removed. By doing this you can limit the spread of infections to other leaves.

    Algae Growth

    Algae growth on the leaves of your plants is a common but frustrating problem. The most common causes for this issue are:

    • Lighting that is too strong
    • The lighting period is too long
    • The water nutrient levels are too high
    • The nutrient levels and CO2 are too low for the lighting provided

    Unfortunately, removing the algae growth will not solve the problem until the root cause is found and fixed.

    Plant Pests

    Ramshorn Snail

    Some keepers report that the Amazon sword plant is susceptible to damage by some pests such as ramshorn and bladder snails. It is more likely that these snails are feeding on unhealthy, decaying leaves rather than healthy plants, however.

    Snails love aquarium plants because they offer great places to hide and forage. Often, when bringing a new aquarium plant home, you may have a few snails hiding between the leaves that you weren’t aware of.

    If you don’t already have snails in your tank and don’t want to introduce them now, it’s worth carefully inspecting and washing off new Amazon swords before adding them to your aquarium.

    Another, more extreme, but very effective method is to dip your Amazon swords in bleach. This is a risky procedure though because bleach is a harmful chemical for both plants and animals.

    To do this safely, it’s important to use a very mild mixture of bleach and water. 1 part bleach to 20 parts water is a good strength for killing pests without damaging plants.

    Even at this weak level though, prolonged exposure to the bleach will harm your plants so dip them for no longer than 2 minutes and then rinse them off carefully before planting out in your tank.

    Where To Buy These Plants

    Amazon sword plants are one of the most popular aquatic plants in the hobby and not difficult to find at most outlets that sell fish and aquarium plants. If you prefer the convenience of online shopping, Buceplant offers quality tissue culture amazon swords as well as regular farmed plants. This plant is widely cultivated so it should be regularly available.


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    FAQS

    Do they need to be planted?

    This species must be planted to grow well in the home aquarium. Suitable aquarium substrates include aqua soils or sand and gravel that are enriched with root tabs.

    Can they grow out of water?

    Amazon swords is grown emersed or partially submerged. In nature, these plants grow only partially underwater and produce flowers that are visited by butterflies!

    In a small, open-topped freshwater tank, Amazon swords may grow large enough to break the surface of the water.

    Do these plants need fertilizer?

    Amazon sword plants will need fertilizer if not grown in a plant substrate with good nutrient content. Using slow-release root tabs is an excellent way of feeding them if you have an inert aquarium substrate like sand or aquarium gravel.

    Can they grow in low light?

    Amazon swords is grown in low-light setups which makes them a great choice for beginners with low-tech setups. In nature, this plant is found growing in both sunny and shady positions which means they are pretty adaptable to lighting in general.

    Do they need soil?

    Planting Amazon swords in soil often brings the best results. That being said, you can also plant Amazon swords in sand or aquarium gravel. If you do go the sand or gravel route, don’t forget to enrich the soil with plant food in the form of root tabs.

    Closing Thoughts

    Whether you’re just starting out with a new aquarium, or you feel like you have space for just one more species in your planted tank, the Amazon sword definitely deserves your attention. The combination of low-tech needs, low maintenance, and really great looks makes this one plant we definitely recommend.

    Have you tried planting an amazon sword? What other plants do you like? Leave us a comment below!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Dwarf Hairgrass Care – An Easy to Follow Guide

    Dwarf Hairgrass Care – An Easy to Follow Guide

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Dwarf hairgrass, Eleocharis pusilla (parvula), is very popular with aquarists who want a bright and vibrant carpeting plant. In this article, I’ll be explaining the basics Dwarf Hairgrass care. This is a type of grass that’s commonly found in planted aquariums and can create a beautiful underwater landscape for your fish. It’s important to know how to properly maintain the plant so you’re able to enjoy it for longer!

    These aquarium plants are great for beginners, provided they start out with decent lighting, carbon dioxide injection, and the right substrate. Read on to learn how to grow and care for this aquarium grass!

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Eleocharis Parvula
    Common Names Dwarf Hairgrass, Dwarf Spikerush, Small spikerush
    Family Cyperaceae
    Origin Australasia (Australia)
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Low, 35-50 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, Midground, Carpeting
    Flow Rate Moderate
    Temperature Range 50. 85 F
    Height 2 – 3 inches
    pH Range 6.5 – 7.5
    Propagation Division of runners
    Growth Rate Moderate
    Feed Type Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement Yes

    Origins And Habitat

    Dwarf hairgrass is an aquarium plant with a confusing heritage. Although this freshwater plant is sold and known as Eleocharis parvula, experts have determined that the popular plant we grow in our home aquariums is, in fact, correctly known as Eleocharis pusilla.

    E. Parvula is a species from North America, Europe, Asia, and South America that prefers brackish conditions in habitats like estuaries and coastal mudflats.

    The dwarf hairgrass that is commonly sold in the aquarium trade is actually a plant from Australia and New Zealand. Dwarf hairgrass natural habitat consists of shallow freshwater environments like wetlands, marshes, and along slow-flowing rivers.

    These aquatic plants are adapted to the fluctuating water levels that result from dry seasons and rainy periods so they can survive underwater or emersed.

    Dwarf Hairgrass Appearance

    What Does Dwarf Hairgrass Look Like

    Dwarf hairgrass (picture source) is a vibrant bright green carpeting plant with fine, slightly curled leaf blades. It creates a very soft, lush green texture on the bottom of the tank.

    Dwarf hairgrass grows very densely in good growing conditions and produces fine white roots. The roots are not visible above the substrate surface but look very interesting if the plant is grown up to the glass of the tank.

    In appearance, the dwarf hairgrass plant is one of the closest matches for the kind of grass we see out on dry land. It is a small species, not growing taller than about 3 inches, and it creates a very dense lawn.

    Placement And Lighting

    Dwarf hair grass is essentially a carpeting plant that can work anywhere on the bottom of the aquarium. In larger tanks, this species also makes a great foreground plant.

    This plant provides a beautiful green look to the aquascape and looks amazing in Iwagumi and minimalist aquascapes. Its grass-like texture makes it an ideal choice for complimenting driftwood bonsais.

    Dwarf hairgrass is mixed with other carpet plant species for nature aquariums but they can outcompete other smaller groundcovers if allowed to.

    Once planted, these aquatic plants will spread widely by runners so keep that in mind when laying out your aquascape.

    In nature, hairgrass is not found growing in the shade, and that is the first clue in how to keep your dwarf hairgrass growing well in your aquarium. It does not need powerful lighting, but it will not do well in low light.

    Use decent lights if you want a dense, vibrant, and healthy carpet, particularly because this is a low-growing carpeting plant, and light intensity diminishes quickly with depth. If you want a lush carpet, you will want to invest in a stronger planted tank light. A good light to look into would be a Chihiros WRGB II or a Twinstar E series.

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    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Hairgrass has some real benefits for the fish in your aquarium. It oxygenates the water well and creates ideal micro-habitats for fish tank inhabitants.

    As a spreading plant that grows at a healthy rate, dwarf hairgrass is also great for soaking up excess nutrients in the system.

    Good Tank Mates

    Small freshwater fish and shrimp species enjoy foraging and sheltering between the blades of grass. Shrimp are ideal tank mates for this plant because they can really get to work cleaning up around the roots and helping to keep your aquarium clean.

    Most freshwater tropical fish and shrimp species kept in tropical fish tanks make ideal tank mates for dwarf hairgrass. Small fish that forage in the lower levels and on the bottom of the aquarium will enjoy the habitat this plant creates. Great fish to look into would be fish that are nano fish or schooling such as:

    • Black Shirt Tetras
    • Neon Tetras
    • Cherry Barbs
    • Danios
    • Livebearers

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Oscar Cichlids in Aquarium

    Large cichlids like Oscars should be avoided because they will damage this plant when shifting the substrate and rearranging the bottom of the aquarium.

    Dwarf Hairgrass requires CO2 to carpet properly. Without it, you get thin, patchy growth that never fills in. That is not a maybe. That is how the plant works.

    Other small community fish like corydoras can cause some frustration when first establishing dwarf hairgrass because while foraging, they tend to disturb and dislodge the roots from the substrate. Fortunately, root establishment happens pretty quickly and this is just a temporary problem.

    Feeding (Fertilization)

    Since Dwarf hairgrass is primarily a root feeder, a nutrient-rich medium is necessary for a healthy carpet. There are a few options here and the easiest is probably to use a suitable aquarium plant soil.

    You can also plant dwarf hairgrass in inert substrates like sand or fine gravel, but you will need to feed the roots from time to time with root tabs.

    Hair grass will also benefit from column feeding, although this on its own will not be a great substitute for providing nutrients directly to the roots.  Your substrate should be in an aquatic plant soil that absorbs nutrients from aquarium fertilize and the water. Brands like ADA and Tropica are designed for top notch aquascapes.

    For a fertilizer, I would recommend using an all-in-one fertilizer like APT Complete and supplement with root tabs over time.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Root tabs are capsules of a slow-release fertilizer that are pushed into the substrate at the root zone. These substrate fertilizers provide nutrients for a few months, but it is best to follow the instructions on the specific product that you have to get a rough idea.

    Of course, the rate of nutrient uptake by your hairgrass is going to vary from tank to tank, depending on a couple of different factors. Plant size, species, planting density, carbon dioxide availability, light quality, and aquarium water temperature all play a role in how often you’ll need to add new root tabs.

    CO2 Injection

    It is important for aquarists to remember the 3 basic growing requirements for photosynthesis in plants. These requirements are light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide, and all three are needed in a balanced ratio for optimum plant growth. CO2 and a proper CO2 system are at the heart of lush growth. After all, 50% of our plant’s dry mass is carbon!

    Since dwarf hairgrass grows best under moderate lighting, and with good access to nutrients in the substrate, it will need access to carbon dioxide as well to grow at its best.

    How Much CO2 Do You Need?

    In tanks where fish are kept, carbon dioxide levels must always be kept within a safe range of below 30 ppm. Carbon dioxide levels above this range cause suffocation and is deadly to fish.

    To get your levels right, you’ll need to use a combination of a bubble counter and a drop checker. It takes a little fine-tuning, so start out on the conservative side for the safety of your fish. You should need 1 bubble per second for every 100 liters or 25 gallons of water volume.

    Just be sure you measure your levels well away from where the CO2 enters your tank for accuracy. It also takes a few hours (depending on the volume of your aquarium) for the available CO2 levels in the water to rise.

    How Long Should You Run CO2?

    Hairgrass cannot use CO2 without light so there is no use in running CO2 after your lights have been shut off for the day.

    That being said, when you start up your carbon dioxide for the day, it takes about 2 hours for the water column to accumulate the gas.

    For this reason, your CO2 injection system should run on its own timer that starts up about 2 hours before the lights go on, and then shuts off at the same time as the lights. If you are in the market for a CO2 system, CO2art systems are top notch!

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    Types

    There are a few other species of hairgrass available in the aquarium hobby and unfortunately, there is often a lot of confusion over which one is which. Mislabeling of Eleocharis pusillis as Eleocharis parvula is the norm, and confusion with other species like Eleocharis acicularis does happen from time to time.

    Other hairgrass species:

    • Eleocharis ‘belem’ is a shorter growing form that has more curled leaf blades than typical dwarf hairgrass. There is some confusion around the accurate identification of this hairgrass to species level.
    • E. Acicularis- This species has a slightly thicker leaf blade that grows straighter than E. Pusillis. It grows to about 6 inches tall.
    • E. Acicularis ‘Mini’- This dwarf cultivar is excellent for nano aquariums because it is even smaller than E. Pusillis.
    • E. Montevidensis– Giant hairgrass
    • E. Vivipara– Tall hairgrass

    Care

    Dwarf Hairgrass

    Dwarf hairgrass care is really about providing your plant with a decent substrate and enough lighting and CO2.

    While your carpet is becoming established, trimming with a pair of curved or double-curved aquascaping scissors will help to stimulate runners and lateral growth. Trimmed dwarf hairgrass, especially when planted in a grid pattern, looks pretty artificial and unattractive, but hang in there, this plant will close up the gaps.

    Once established, you’ll still want to give it a trim from time to time. A popular technique is to trim shortest in the front, increasing in height towards the back to create depth.

    Varying the heights also creates a more natural and varied look, but you should experiment and find the pattern that best suits your aquascape.

    Being a dense carpet plant, organic material and waste collect around the root zone and can lead to a build-up of organic material that can potentially result in some nasty swings in water quality.

    Situations like this tend to happen in over-stocked, and overfed tanks in particular. Disturbing the carpet to free up debris and vacuuming around the root zone is very helpful, especially after trimming. Fortunately, the cut leaf blades float well after trimming, but being such a fine plant, there will be hundreds if not thousands to collect. A little patience and a fine mesh aquarium net are all that is needed.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Growing a dwarf hairgrass carpet is most successful in neutral water conditions with a pH of between about 6.5 and 7.5.

    As far as temperature is concerned, this plant grows well in any cool water or tropical freshwater aquarium between 50 and 85ยฐF.

    Carbonate hardness of between 0. 14ยฐdKH, and general hardness of 0. 30ยฐdGH are recommended.

    Dwarf hairgrass is a versatile plant that is used in a variety of different tank setups. Being a small plant that is trimmed, it makes a great choice even for nano tanks.

    It is probably best suited for a tank size of 10 gallons or more because it will spread in time to dominate small tanks. If you like the idea of a full carpet of dwarf hairgrass, it can also be grown in smaller aquariums as well.

    Water Quality

    Dwarf hairgrass is not known to be particularly fussy about water quality. Of course, you should always strive to maintain the best possible water quality for the sake of other plants and fish.

    Be sure to keep the spaces between leaf blades and around the root zone clean by vacuuming when necessary to avoid water quality issues that could affect other species and livestock in your aquarium.

    Filtration

    A healthy carpet doesn’t tend to break up a whole lot, but being such a fine-leaved grass, trimmings is an issue with your filter. Plants that are left to melt and decay can also cause these problems.

    You can simply turn off your filter temporarily when trimming this plant and carefully remove all the trimmings, or consider using a filter with a prefilter sponge fixed to its intake to keep solid debris out. Because an aquarium covered with ground cover like an iwagumi scape will produce a lot of plant waste, this will create a lot of ammonia production. To fight ammonia, you need to have a top notch aquarium filter with lots of biologicial filters. For serious planted tanks, a quality canister filter is highly recommended!

    Flow

    Dwarf hairgrass has no obvious preference when it comes to flow rate. They grow in still water like marshes as well as alongside rivers and are therefore able to grow in still or flowing water.  

    A decent flow will help to distribute dissolved CO2 in your aquarium and for that reason, some current is a good thing. A full aquascape should get 5-10 times turnover. Another reason why I push for high quality canister filters in planted aquariums.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular maintenance is an unavoidable part of keeping a healthy, thriving ecosystem in your aquarium. A dwarf hairgrass carpet does require some focused maintenance in the form of trimming and vacuuming.

    Further than that, standard maintenance is all that is needed.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Test your water parameters regularly using a liquid test kit or strips.

    Nitrate, nitrite, and ammonia levels are the most important levels to test on a regular basis but when first filling your tank, you should take note of your pH and hardness levels as well.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    The most important part of your tank setup for dwarf hairgrass is a good layer of substrate. The Dwarf hairgrass is a root feeder and will grow best in a nutrient-rich substrate.

    Sand or fine gravel also works well as a medium to grow dwarf hairgrass, but because they are inert, you will need to use root tabs.

    Dwarf hairgrass is sold in pots or bare root clumps, and before planting, you should split the bunch up into as many small sections with roots as possible. Take care to not damage the plants and plant out in a grid pattern.

    Planting dwarf hairgrass is easiest with a pair of aquascaping pincettes or tweezers. An offset pair works well to avoid pulling these tiny plugs back out when lifting out the tweezers.

    How To Propagate

    Dwarf hairgrass is a very easy plant to propagate. If your tank conditions are good, the plants will soon send out runners and spread to close the gaps and create a full carpet.

    If you wish to create more plants for planting out in other tanks, simply remove a runner with leaves and roots and replant.

    Health And Disease

    Grass in Aquarium

    Signs Of Good Health

    Healthy dwarf hairgrass has a really vibrant bright green coloration and firm, wiry foliage.

    The leaves of the plant should be able to support themselves when held out of the water. Healthy plants should also have a healthy set of fine white roots.

    Signs Of Poor Health

    Unhealthy dwarf hairgrass plants will turn yellow and then light brown as they melt. The leaf blades become soft and are unable to support their own weight.

    Look for bright green hairgrass with firm, upright leaves and have a strong, healthy root system.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Even the healthiest plants can melt back pretty badly when first planted and this is often because they were farmed emersed.

    Plants that have been grown emersed will need to adjust to growing completely underwater and grow new foliage.

    In this case, stay on top of removing melting leaves from your tank to avoid them from spoiling in your tank or being taken up in your filter.

    This melting can begin at your local aquarium store but avoid purchasing any plants that are clearly showing signs of stress or yellow or brown leaf blades and tips.

    Flowing strands of hair algae flowing on the blades of hairgrass is a frustrating problem. Algae growth is the result of lighting that is too strong or an imbalance of light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide.

    Plants with discolored leaves showing yellow or brown patches are often the result of a lack of macronutrients. Consider fertilizing your substrate if you notice this problem or try dosing with a suitable liquid fertilizer.

    Plant Pests

    When adding a new plant to your aquarium, there is always the chance of accidentally introducing pest animals and even plants.

    As exciting as it is to get started with a new species in your fish tank, resist the urge to plant it right away!

    At the very least, you should take care in inspecting the plant and give it a good rinse. Take this time to remove any dead or dying plant parts while you’re at it.

    Before planting out a hairgrass carpet, the aquarist will separate the plant’s roots into as many little complete plants as possible, taking care not to damage them.

    Splitting the plants up like this gives you the ideal chance to wash off each section and remove any eggs or snails you might find.

    Fortunately, dwarf hairgrass is available as a tissue culture.

    These selections are grown under controlled laboratory conditions and are completely pest-free so you have very little to worry about when planting them in your tank.

    Where To Buy

    Dwarf hairgrass is easy to find at your local fish store, but it’s is difficult to know exactly which Eleocharis species you’re getting sometimes. It also difficult to find a tissue culture variant locally. For this reason, many hobbyist will look to an online fish store to get quality plants.

    A good option is to buy them online from a trusted source like Buceplant.com. That way you know exactly what you’re getting. They have both cuttings and tissue culture available. I recommend going tissue culture.

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    FAQS

    Is it easy to grow?

    A hairgrass carpet pretty is easy to grow if your tank setup is suitable. You should have no problems growing it with fair lighting, injected CO2, and a nutrient-rich substrate.

    Can I grow this plant without CO2?

    Dwarf hairgrass is grown without added CO2, although the results is pretty underwhelming. Added carbon dioxide will definitely improve plant health and vigor.

    Can it grow in gravel?

    You can plant dwarf hairgrass in gravel, although coarse gravel is not an ideal medium. This plant has fine roots and spreads by runners, which means it will struggle to shift the gravel and spread itself.

    Is this plant low light?

    Dwarf hairgrass is one of the better carpet plants for lower light setups, but it is not a true low light plant and will need decent lighting.

    Does it need soil?

    Dwarf hairgrass does need to be planted in some form of substrate. It does not necesarily require soil, but it is a good option. You can also grow dwarf hairgrass in sand or fine gravel if you feed it with root tabs when needed.

    Closing Thoughts

    Dwarf hairgrass are pretty undemanding but really attractive aquarium plants. Melt is a frustration at first but provided your parameters are in order, you will enjoy a vibrant green element in the tank with great movement and texture. These carpeting plants are recommended for any planted tank enthusiast.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • What do Goldfish eat? – Everything you need to know about feeding your pet fish

    What do Goldfish eat? – Everything you need to know about feeding your pet fish

    Goldfish are not easy. They produce more waste than fish three times their price and need more space than most people realize. A single goldfish needs 20 gallons minimum and heavy filtration. Most goldfish deaths come from undersized tanks and inadequate filtration.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Ever wonder what do goldfish eat? Feeding your pet fish is a daunting task. Whether you have a aquarium or a pond, this post will help you figure out how to feed your little guys! This blog post is for all the goldfish owners in the world who want to know more about feeding their pets and make sure they’re getting everything they need.

    You’ll learn: What type of food do goldfish eat? How often should I feed my fish? What are some common mistakes people make when feeding their pet fish? And much more! So grab a snack (or two) because this long article is full of great information that will answer any questions you may have about feeding your beloved pet friends

    What Do Goldfish Eat in the Wild?

    Understanding the diet of goldfish means studying what they eat in the wild. Doing so will allow you to understand what kind of diet you need to replicate for them.

    As you may already know, goldfish belong to the Cyprinidae family, which means they share ancestry with the carps.

    Carps live in slow-moving waters that are rife with plants and vegetation, floating on the surface or thriving underwater. They also eat any animal matter they can find.

    So, it makes sense why wild goldfish are natural omnivores. It means that in the wild, they eat plant matter as well as animal matter.

    In the wild, plant matter means live plants and algae, while animal matter includes insects, insect larvae, zooplankton, tadpoles, and small crustaceans who make up protein sources. Some goldfish might even eat smaller fish.

    The main takeaway is this: goldfish will eat almost anything, as long as it fits in their mouth! So, you have to be careful with goldfish food because goldfish truly don’t know when to stop eating.

    What to Feed Goldfish

    Let’s break this down to a list than I’ll explain in detail. There are four general categories of food types for goldfish:

    Manufactured Foods

    This is the goldfish food we are most familiar with when we go into a pet store. These would be:

    • Dried pellets
    • Dried flakes
    • Fish Algae wafers

    Lower quality manufactured foods often will have fillers and are not ideal as the primary source of a goldfish’s diet. There are other prepared foods that manufacturers make that fall into our next category.

    Meat (Inverts and Insects)

    Daphnia

    Goldfish love insects and shrimp. These types of food are rich in protein and is given live, frozen, or freeze dried. The best prepared goldfish foods will often contain these:

    • Bloodworms
    • Blackworms
    • Ghost shrimp
    • Brine shrimp
    • Squid
    • Tubifex Worm
    • Daphnia
    • Crickets
    • Mealworms

    Vegetables

    Vegetables are a crucial part of goldfish food. The following are vegetables you can feed your goldfish. It’s always best to steam vegetables to sterilize them prior to putting in your fish tank.

    • Shelled peas
    • Leafy greens such as spinach, lettuce, chard, kale
    • Diced broccoli (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced corn (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced carrots (microwaved or boiled)
    • Diced zucchini (microwaved or boiled)
    • Cooked rice

    Don’t believe me? See these Goldfish in action feeding on spinach in Big Fish Little Fish Aquatics video below:

    Aquatic plants are also included in this list. Goldfish eat aquatic plants. The cheapest ones to try are Anacharis and duckweed.

    Fruits

    Yes, goldfish love fruits too! Here are their favorites:

    • Grapes (skinned and chopped)
    • Cucumber slices (boiled or microwaved)
    • Watermelon (sliced)
    • Orange (sliced)
    • Apple
    • Banana
    • Stawberries
    • Raspberries
    • Mangos
    • Pears

    Pros and Cons of Different Food Types

    The diet you can provide adult goldfish pets is divided into four main categories

    • Flake food
    • Pellet Food
    • Frozen Food
    • Live Food

    The last two categories are where vegetables and insects tend to be included. Let us have a look at the benefits and drawbacks of each goldfish food class.

    Flake Food

    Flake Food

    Flake goldfish food is the most commonly sought fish food as it is convenient. It is a mixture of many ingredients.

    It floats in your goldfish tank and gradually falls to the bottom. Dry flake food be very high in protein, which all fish need. However, they should not be the only food you give to your goldfish. Poor quality flake food can contain lots of fillers, which can cause serious health issues for your goldfish such as bloat.

    Pros

    • Affordable and easy to find in any pet store or aquarium supply store
    • It is dispensed through an auto feeder
    • High quality fish flakes is found with a large roster of nutrients
    • Perfect for feeding a large number of fish simultaneously
    • Small size is easy for your goldfish to nibble on

    Cons

    • Does not provide adequate nutrition
    • Cannot be dosed with vitamins
    • Uneaten food will dissolve quickly and pollute the goldfish’s tank water
    • Some fish accidentally gulp large quantities of air along with the food

    Pellet Food

    Like fish flakes, pellet food is available in a large variety and is fed to many different fishes.

    And the more you’re willing to spend; the more nutritious your goldfish’s pellets will be. However, unlike flakes, pellets are heavier and tend to sink instead of float, although you can find floating varieties.

    Pros

    • Their size makes it easier for goldfish to swallow without also ingesting large amounts of air
    • Since fish food pellets tend to sink, they is fed easily to bottom feeders
    • High end food pellets tend to be packed with more nutrition than high end flakes
    • Easier to measure the amount of fish pellets
    • Pellets have a longer shelf life than flakes
    • It can easily be used with good automatic feeders

    Cons

    • Like flakes, pellets can dissolve quickly and pollute the tank water
    • Your fish might accidentally eat substrate when foraging for pellets in it

    There are many solid brands for goldfish pellets like Saki-Hikari, Blue Ridge (for pond goldfish), and Hikari. NorthFin is a great brand to start with as it’s affordable and high quality.

    My Pick
    Northfin Goldfish Formula

    The Best Goldfish Pellet

    Specially designed for goldfish and free from fillers

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Frozen / Freeze Dried Food

    Frozen and freeze dried foods offer some of the best healthy offerings for your fish.Frozen foods are only available at local fish stores. Look for well known brands like Hikari or San Francisco Bay Brand. For freeze dried, I’m a fan of California black worms with vita-chem.

    Pros

    • Frozen and freeze dried food contains a large amount of protein, which your fish needs
    • not mixed with other chemicals/vitamins except phosphorus
    • Strengthens your fish’s immune system
    • It helps to promote a healthy and vivid coloration for your fish

    Cons

    • Prone to dissolving and affecting tank water
    • Frozen food must be stored in a freezer

    Live Food

    Any live food you give your goldfish will probably be their favorite ingredient in their diet. However, it’s important to remember that live food should make up only one part of your fish’s diet and not be the whole of it. Home cultivation of live foods is the safest way to obtain it, but it’s not for everyone.

    Pros

    • Live food is rich in nutritets and promotes healthy gut bacteria.
    • It closely mimic what fish eat in the wild
    • They are natural, not processed
    • It can help you with setting up breeding conditions
    • You can grow and cultivate live food by yourself
    • Great for working with finicky eaters
    • It tastes much better to goldfish compared to processed flakes/pellets

    Cons

    • Live foods are much more expensive than store bought foods (unless you raise your own)
    • It has a short shelf life
    • Messy to cultivate (and likely considered gross by your significant other or roommates ๐Ÿ˜…!)
    • Some live foods can carry and pass on diseases to your fish

    Gel Foods

    A type of fish food recently growing in popularity are gel foods. These fish foods are available in powder form and must be mixed with water to produce a gel like consistency.

    Pros

    • Gel fish foods automatically sink to the bottom of the tank, so your fish are less likely to swallow air when ingesting the food
    • Their moist texture makes gel foods easier for fish to digest
    • They have a high vegetable and protein content
    • Pollutes tank water noticeably less than do other food types
    • It is stored in a fridge for up to 2 weeks

    Cons

    • Gel foods smell bad when boiled
    • Has to be prepared in batches
    • Expensive
    My Pick
    Repashy Goldfish Gel Food

    Gel foods are a new development in the fish food industry. This food by Repashy includes a mix of inverts like krill and plant matter like Spirulina. Give it a try!

    Buy On Amazon

    What Do They Eat Besides Fish Food?

    In terms of “human food,” you can feed your goldfish any of the fruits, vegetables, or live food that we have discussed above.

    Remember that these foods should be offered to your goldfish at least once a week. You can also create your own recipes for your goldfish. We really like this instructional video by ThinFrog for homemade goldfish food. You can even eat this mix yourself ๐Ÿ˜Š

    More importantly, it’s of crucial importance to give them a balanced diet. Read more about that below.

    Diet

    It’s imperative to give your goldfish a varied diet if you want them to be healthy, live long, retain their coloring, and prevent digestive issues like bloat.

    A good staple tank diet can consist of goldfish flakes, pellets, and granules, supplemented with live foods such as brine shrimp, daphnia, and worms (you can find the full list of these foods above).

    The inclusion of vegetables is also essential. Shelled peas, duckweed, shredded lettuce, diced carrots. Goldfish will eat almost anything (once again, the full list is found above)!

    Meanwhile, the freeze-dried food you give to your goldfish will constitute their carbohydrate needs.

    Including floating flakes and sinking pellets in your goldfish diet is a good idea if you have many goldfish in your tank because then all your goldfish can eat equally. Remember, goldfish feed at all aquarium levels.

    Nutrition

    Here’s a breakdown of the nutritional values you should be aiming to fulfill when you feed goldfish.

    Protein

    It is the primary nutrient required by goldfish, who need a large amount of protein in their diet.

    Protein should make up about 30% to 45% of a goldfish’s diet. Balancing proteins with roughage is essential. This can either be achieved with insect and invert chitin or from fruits and vegetables. I covered chitin and roughage in my Malawi Bloat article. The same principles exist with goldfish and matter more due to their genetic modifications.

    Plant protein is easier for your goldfish to digest than animal protein (e.g., brine shrimp), but they do take well to live foods.

    Fat

    A goldfish needs about 5-10% of fat in its diet.

    Vitamins

    Goldfish require the A, D, and K vitamins to grow, as well as folic acid. Thankfully, most goldfish can produce their own required vitamins, but you might have to provide supplements now and then.

    Minerals

    Goldfish need minerals in small quantities. They get it directly from the water, so you don’t have to provide it.

    Carbohydrate and Fiber

    Goldfish require low amounts of fiber and carbohydrates. Carbs will be supplied by the flakes and pellets you give them, and fibers is had from live plants.

    Checking Fish Food Nutrition Contents

    When looking at manufactured foods, it is important to check the nutritional analysis and contents of what you are purchasing. Let’s look at an example from Repashy’s gel formula:

    Sample Nutritional Guide

    Here we see that the protein and fat mix are in the ranges we want. Next we need to look at the ingredients.

    Sample Ingredients Fish Food

    Looking at the ingredients, I see a mix of animal matter (Krill, Squid, Egg, Fly larvae), a mix of veggies (Spirulina, Rice, Kelp), and fruits (Watermelon, Banana). This food is checking off the list of everything we want in a balanced goldfish diet.

    How Often to Feed

    Goldfish owners should feed their pets twice a day, but always according to a set routine. It is important because it helps your goldfish stick to a routine and regulates their diet accordingly.

    When it’s feeding time, it’s also fun to watch the little ones get more active and gather near the usual feeding spot. But don’t get taken in when they do this outside of feeding time, because as we keep saying, one of the big no-nos is overfeeding your goldfish.

    The next question is how much to feed your goldfish. You should only give your goldfish as much food as they can finish within 2-3 minutes; any more than that, and you risk overfeeding them and overloading your filtration.

    The Don’ts of Feeding

    Here are some guidelines on what not to do when feeding your goldfish.

    Do Not Overfeed

    Even if you think your goldfish can eat more after you’ve fed them, resist the urge to give them more food.

    Remember, goldfish are greedy little things, and they don’t know when to stop eating, and they willbloat themselves if you allow it (fish even eat their own fish eggs).

    If you notice that your goldfish are looking a little swollen, you can safely assume that they’re probably bloated.

    Another way of knowing whether you’ve overfed your fish is to look out for a dirty tank. If the tank gets dirty quickly, your fish are producing too much waste.

    Do Not Leave Uneaten Food in the Water

    Remember, goldfish should not be given any more food than they can eat in 2 minutes or less.

    So, if there’s any uneaten food leftover in the aquarium after those 2 minutes are up, you should remove the food manually.

    Otherwise, it will disintegrate and dissolve, affecting water quality and, to an extent, making it uninhabitable. Too much waste in the tank water is one of the leading causes of goldfish death.

    Do Not Feed Too Much in Colder Temperatures

    If the water temperature falls below 45 degrees Fahrenheit or 8 degrees Celsius, feed your goldfish a smaller amount than you would. Goldfish are homoeothermic, meaning they can’t digest food as easily at lower water temperatures. This will apply to goldfish in ponds.

    Do Not Feed Bread

    In film and television, people are often seen feeding goldfish crumbs of bread. Do not do this. Bread swells inside the intestines and causes bloating.

    Do Not Feed Fatty Food

    Mammalian fats, e.g., fat from meat or beef heart, should not be fed to fish as they cannot digest it properly.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Do they eat mosquito larvae?

    Yes. In the wild, goldfish will readily eat any insect larvae they find, and this, of course, includes mosquitoes.

    Do they eat shrimp?

    They absolutely do! Shrimp are one of their favorite foods and should be offered live, frozen, or freeze dried.

    Do they eat snails?

    They do. If you want to feed your goldfish snails, you have many options to choose from. However, it’s for this very reason that you should not keep snails as pets in the same aquarium as your goldfish.

    How long can they go without food?

    One goldfish will be able to survive from 1 to 2 weeks without being fed. If you’ll be unavailable to feed them for some time, why not get a neighbor or friend to feed them? Alternatively, you can use an automatic fish feeder, but the only type of food they’re compatible with are flakes and pellets.

    Do they have teeth?

    Yes, but they don’t look like what you might expect, and neither are the teeth positioned where you would expect. Goldfish teeth what are called pharyngeal teeth. They are flat in shape and help the goldfish to disintegrate their food. These teeth is found at the back of a goldfish’s throat.

    Do they eat other fish?

    Goldfish aren’t a naturally predatory type of fish, as long as they are well fed. However, since they do eat most things that fit in their mouth, goldfish are liable to eat their smaller tank mates.

    How often should I feed my them?

    Goldfish should be fed 2-3 times a day. Maintaining a routine will allow your aquatic babies to get accustomed to being fed at a certain time and complement their health. Be careful not to overfeed your goldfish because doing so can cause bloat or other illnesses like swim bladder problems.

    Closing Thoughts

    What do goldfish eat? As we’ve seen, goldfish foods come in a huge variety. Don’t just stick to processed food; remember to switch it up and give them a varied diet by including fruits and vegetables. That’s how you get some healthy, happy goldfish.

    And remember, never overfeed, and never leave uneaten food in the tank. Also, look out for large amounts of waste. Leave us comment below if youโ€™ve had any success incorporating these tips into your own routine so that we can share the good news with other goldfish owners out there.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.