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Author: Mark Valderrama

  • Ludwigia Repens Plant Care: A Guide to Growth and Maintenance

    Ludwigia Repens Plant Care: A Guide to Growth and Maintenance

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

    This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

    A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

    Looking for an easy to care for red plant? Ludwigia repens may for you then. Reds are a major challenge for beginner planted tank owners due to their more complex care over green aquatic plants. However, this plant bucks the trend with its forgiving nature. Ludwigia repens, or the red leaf ludwigia is a great beginner plant that is grown under a wide range of different lighting conditions, and with or without CO2 injection. This is one of the best red plants for beginners to start out with. Read on to learn everything you need to know about growing the red leaf ludwigia.

    What It Is Actually Like Growing Ludwigia Repens Plant

    The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

    Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

    Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

    In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Easy – Beginner Plant

    Ludwigia repens is a hardy stem plant that adapts to a wide range of conditions. It shows red coloration under high light with CO2, but will grow in low-tech setups. A reliable plant for any level.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Ludwigia repens
    Common Names Red leaf ludwigia, red repens, creeping primrose-willow, water primrose
    Family Onagraceae
    Origin United States of America, Mexico (North and Central America)
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Moderate, but grows best at 100-200 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Mid ground & Background
    Flow Rate Low, Moderate
    Temperature Range 72 – 82°F
    Height 8 – 20 inches
    pH Range 6.5 – 7.5
    Proprogation Stem cuttings
    Growth Rate Fast
    Feed Type Column and Root Feeder
    Co2 Requirement No

    Origins And Habitat

    Ludwigia repens is an amphibious flowering plant from the United States and Mexico in North and Central America. In the wild, it is found growing in ditches, ponds, and along sandy and muddy stream banks.

    What Does They Look Like?

    Ludwigia Repens Stems

    Ludwigia repens is a stunning red stem plant with foliage color that varies from dark green to deep red. Overall color depends a lot on growing conditions, but the leaves on these aquatic plants are mostly green to brownish red.

    Color will vary according to the strength of the lighting the plants receive and also the variety of creeping primrose willow you have. These aquatic plants will be greener in low-light tank conditions becoming redder under strong light.

    This effect can often be seen where lower leaves remain an olive-green color while leaves towards the top of the tank have a red tint. This beautiful color makes this an ideal specimen plant that captures your attention.

    This is an upright but narrow plant, that reaches heights of about 20 inches and grows 2-3 inches across. It has oppositely arranged oval leaves.

    Placement And Lighting

    Being a fairly tall plant, Ludwigia repens is best grown in the mid ground to background of planted tanks. Although these plants is grown under pretty low light, they will tend to drop some leaves (especially at the bottom of the stem) under these conditions.

    This is a versatile plant that works great in a wide range of aquascapes. They work particularly well as a background plant in nature-style biotopes but also in Dutch Aquascape style planted tanks.

    Moderate to strong planted tank lighting will bring out the best colors in this plant and ensure fast and vigorous growth.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Ludwigia repens works great in most tropical community tanks where peaceful fish species are kept. Although not ideal, it is a fast-growing species and might even survive being fed on occasionally.

    Good Tank Mates

    Good tank mates for this plant include:

    The Reality of Growing Ludwigia Repens Plant

    Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.

    Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.

    Ludwigia Repens stays green without strong light. It only turns red when you push the intensity and nutrients. If your Ludwigia is green and you wanted red, the fix is more light. Period.

    Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.

    Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

    If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.

    Basically, any non-herbivorous, tropical freshwater fish that does not disturb the substrate too much will work well with Ludwigia repens, provided they share the same parameter ranges.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming

    Avoid keeping fish like silver dollars, goldfish, and Buenos Aires tetras which will feed on this and other aquarium plants in your fish tank. Large, aggressive species like Oscars are likely to damage these delicate plants and are not recommended as fish tank mates.

    Feeding and Fertilization

    Although not considered a heavy feeder, this plant, like all red species, needs enough iron to maintain healthy growth. A supplement like Seachem Flourish Iron added in small amounts on a weekly basis will provide for these needs.

    Ludwigia repens is both a root and water column feeding plant that should be grown in a good quality aqua soil for best results. These aquatic plants will also thrive in dirt substrates capped with gravel.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    It is important to remember that a plant’s nutrient needs has a lot to do with how fast it is growing. For example, a plant that is grown under bright light, with a long photoperiod, and added carbon dioxide will naturally need a steady supply of nutrients to keep up with the fast growth it is like to achieve.

    In low-tech environments, especially where fish are kept, established red leaf ludwigias will need very little in the way of supplementary feeding., a good quality aqua soil will provide all the nutrients these aquatic plants need to thrive. In a high tech environment, the growth of the aquatic plant will accelerate, requiring more nutrients. When it comes to aquarium plant fertilizers, I feel no one does it better than APT Complete. It’s designed for Dutch aquascapers, which makes it perfect for a red plant like this.

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    Types

    Ludwigia repens comes in a variety of subtypes. Here are a few of the more popular variants you will find in stores:

    • Ludwigia repens ‘Rubin’ is a popular variety with a rich red color. To get the most out of this form, you will need bright lighting and CO2 injection in your aquarium. The result is a real eye-catching specimen plant with a compact growth form.
    • Ludwigia repens ‘Mini Super Red’ is a spectacular compact form with a deep red color, just like its name suggests. These plants do best in hi-tech setups.
    • Ludwigia repens ‘Mesakana’ is an orange to red form with larger, more rounded leaves than regular L. Repens. These plants require better lighting than other varieties as well but are otherwise just as easy to grow.

    Care Requirements

    This is a fast-growing stem plant that benefits from being pruned regularly. Trimming encourages a denser growth form, and pruned plants will also develop rooted nodes faster.

    Being an upright, narrow growing aquatic plant, it is best to plant Ludwigia repens in groupings to create a dense stand that will create a more dramatic effect in the aquascape. A bunch of stems growing together will also provide more structure and shelter for livestock like shrimp and fish.

    Don’t worry if you only have a few stems to start out with, they are easily propagated and you can develop a group fairly quickly. As it does in nature, this plant will grow emersed in shallow tanks if left untrimmed.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Red leaf ludwigia repens grows best in slightly acidic water but will survive in neutral to slightly alkaline environments as well. Soft water is preferred but these are hardy plants and will tolerate hard water.

    This aquarium plant does best with a growth temperature of 75-79°F but will grow in much cooler environments, just at a slower rate. Although a CO2 system is not strictly necessary, it is advised, particularly when growing these plants under the recommended lighting intensity.

    If you are equipped for it, aim for a CO2 injection rate of not more than 30ppm and time your CO2 injection to begin 2 hours before your photoperiod begins in the morning.

    Water Quality

    Ludwigia repens is a pretty undemanding plant to grow, but it doesn’t appreciate unstable water conditions. When grown in poor quality water, these aquarium plants are likely to melt, and decaying plant material in your fish tank can result in even worse conditions.

    To prevent this, stay on top of your regular maintenance routine by performing regular partial water changes. This is especially important in smaller aquariums where fish and other livestock are kept. Remember, the smaller an aquarium is, the faster the water quality can swing.

    Use a water conditioner like Seachem prime when adding new water to your aquarium to neutralize harmful chemicals like chlorine in tap water.

    My Pick


    Seachem Prime


    Seachem Prime

    Seachem prime is a easy to use and affordable choice when it comes to remove chlorine and chloramines from your tap water. Highly recommended!


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    Filtration

    All planted tanks should have a good filtration system in place to maintain stable and healthy water conditions. These aquatic plants don’t have any special filtration requirements but should be grown at a reasonable distance from your filter’s uptake and outflow to prevent any mechanical damage to the plants.

    Plants in general have the potential to generate more ammonia than fish do in mass plantings. If you are planting a heavily planted tank, you should consider a canister filter so you have proper filtration to handle the added bioload from plant waste in the aquarium.

    Flow

    Being a pretty delicate plant, strong flow is not recommended for these plants. They will show some nice movement in a tank with some current or if grown just ahead of a gentle spray-bar type outflow. Take care not to focus the outflow of your filter directly on these plants as they will tend to fold right over in a strong current.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Water Conditions

    It is vitally important to test your water quality parameters regularly. Start by testing your water before introducing L. Repens to make sure that your parameters are suitable for the plant.

    After that, test your water before each water change to determine how stable your water conditions are. Various aquarium test kits are available that you can use at home to test pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels in the water.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium

    Red leaf ludwigia repens reaches a height of about 20 inches and might require frequent trimming in shallow tanks. For this reason, medium to large aquariums are best, unless you enjoy growing emersed species of course. A minimum tank size of around 10 gallons or so is recommended.

    A good quality aquarium substrate is best, although organic dirt substrates capped in gravel will work well too.

    Only finely textured, sand substrates should be avoided because this plant’s roots will not develop strongly or be able to feed well. Fine, compacted substrates can even suffocate the roots.

    How To Propagate

    Red leaf ludwigia repens is easily propagated in the planted aquarium. Simply take a cutting from a stem that holds a few healthy leaves.

    Remove the lower leaves at the node because this is where new roots will develop. Often, however, roots and new stems will develop at nodes, making these the ideal cuttings to take.

    Then simply plant your cutting into the substrate using your aquascaping tweezers. In nature, this species will flower and drop seeds when grown emersed.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health

    Ludwigia repens is a naturally soft and somewhat fragile species. Healthy plants will have some red coloration and intact leaves when bought. Healthy aquarium plants should also be developing new growth at the nodes in the form of roots and stems.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    If possible, avoid plants that show signs of damaged stems, excessive melt, and decaying leaves.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    It is common for red leaf ludwigia repens to melt back when first planted in your aquarium. The plants are grown in very different environments and parameters before you buy them and there is a natural adjustment period.

    If this happens, don’t panic, the plants will recover to establish healthy root systems and grow back stronger. Be sure to remove any dead or dying plant matter before it can foul up your water though.

    Plant Pests

    Unfortunately, there’s always a chance of introducing unwanted pests when adding new plants to the aquarium. The easiest way to avoid this from the start is to grow tissue culture plants that have been grown under carefully controlled laboratory conditions.

    Tissue cultures aren’t quite as hardy as regularly grown stock so be sure you have your water parameters where they need to be before introducing them to the system. They also require more aquarium fertilizer to start since they lack the root system that steam cuttings may have.

    When introducing regularly grown ludwigias, start by giving the plants a good inspection. Remove any unhealthy-looking leaves or stems and look out for snails while you’re at it.

    To be extra-safe, you might want to consider giving your plants a bleach dip in a very mild solution (20 parts water: 1 part bleach) to kill off any pests. Ludwigia repens are delicate plants, however, so don’t go much over a minute in the dip and rinse them off thoroughly before introducing them to your aquascape.

    How To Plant

    A how to on planting the Ludwigia Repens is best served with a video. This is a straight to the point video by Otter Creek Aquatics and shows you how to maximize your purchase by spliting up the stems into individual pieces when planting.

    Where To Buy

    Ludwigia is a popular and common aquarium plant that is available from local fish stores and online fish stores. I personally recommend purchasing your live plants online from BucePlant. They offer both stem and tissue culture Ludwigia Repens.

    My Pick


    Ludwigia Repens


    Ludwigia Repens

    Buceplant offers both stem and tissue culture Ludwigia Repens at great prices. A great beginner red plant to try!


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    FAQS

    Do they need CO2?

    Ludwigia repens does not strictly require CO2 for healthy growth. That being said, these plants will definitely benefit from the addition of CO2.

    How fast do they grow?

    The rate of growth in this species will vary according to parameters like temperature, nutrient availability, and water temperature. In most tropical fish tanks, however, these are fast-growing stem plants that will need to be trimmed from time to time.

    How do you plant these in gravel?

    Ludwigia is quite a delicate plant and should be planted carefully in coarse, gravel substrate to avoid damaging its root system. They are fast-growing plants and will recover well after an initial melt, however. Create a depression in your substrate using your finger or your aquascaping tweezers, place your plant in the depression, root carefully, and then cover lightly with the gravel.

    Can they grow floating?

    These plants can grow floating, and this one possible way of propagating new cuttings until they’ve developed a root structure. There are much better-looking floating plants though, so you’ll probably want to grow them rooted in the substrate.

    Can they grow in cold water?

    Ludwigia repens is suitable for use in cool-water aquariums and will survive in pretty cold water, although you can expect the plant to have a much slower growth rate in cold conditions.

    Hard Rule

    Ludwigia repens develops red coloration under high light (40+ PAR) – in low light it stays green regardless of fertilizers. Higher light intensity is the key to the red color, not just iron supplementation.

    Closing Thoughts

    Ludwigia repens is a great choice for aquarists looking for a stem plant to add colors to the mid-ground or background of their planted tanks. These plants are pretty beginner-friendly but will do well in high-tech setups with CO2 injections and offer something for aquarium plant growers at all levels.

    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    The Pearlscale Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

    A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

    Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Table of Contents

    Pearlscale goldfish are one of the most distinctive fancy varieties you’ll encounter. Those raised, dome-shaped scales genuinely do look like pearls, and the round, almost spherical body is unlike any other goldfish. I’ve covered dozens of goldfish types on our YouTube channel over the years, and the pearlscale is always one that surprises people who haven’t seen it before. That said, after 25 years in this hobby I want to be upfront: that beautiful round body comes with real care considerations. Pearlscales are prone to swim bladder issues, especially when overfed or kept on a poor diet. They’re also slow swimmers that absolutely cannot share a tank with single-tailed goldfish varieties. This guide covers everything you need to keep pearlscales healthy long-term.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Pearlscale Goldfish

    Most guides call Pearlscales easy and move on. What they skip is the body shape. That distinctive round, compressed form (the feature that makes Pearlscales so visually striking) directly drives their vulnerabilities. The compressed body competes for internal space with the swim bladder, making Pearlscales more prone to buoyancy issues than any other fancy goldfish variety. The pearl-like scales, once lost from injury or infection, don’t fully regenerate. And their round, slow-moving bodies can’t compete in a tank with faster fish during feeding time.

    The second mistake is tankmate selection. You cannot keep Pearlscales with comets, common goldfish, or any faster fancy variety without managing feeding separately. In my 25+ years in the hobby, this is the most consistent failure point for Pearlscale keepers: they add one faster fish and watch the Pearlscale slowly lose condition as it loses every food competition.

    The Reality of Keeping Pearlscale Goldfish

    Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

    Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

    They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

    Expert Take

    The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Carassius Auratus
    Common Names Golfball pearlscale, pearlscale goldfish, ping-pong goldfish
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin China
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Moderately Active
    Lifespan 5 to 10 Years
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level All levels
    Minimum Tank Size 20 Gallons
    Water Temperature Range 65°F to 75°F
    KH 4-20
    pH Range 6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water Flow Moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg layers, is bred in both small and large groups, is hand spawned
    Difficulty to Breed Moderate
    Compatibility Peaceful community species, best with other Fancy Goldfish
    OK for Planted Tanks? Mostly No

    Classification

    Taxonomic Rank Classification
    Common Name Pearlscale Goldfish
    Scientific Name Carassius auratus
    Order Cypriniformes
    Family Cyprinidae
    Genus Carassius
    Species C. Auratus

    Origins and Habitat

    Originating in the early 20th century, the pearlscale goldfish is a relatively new addition to the family of fancy goldfish. Unlike the slender common goldfish, the Chinshurin (as is their Japanese name) have an adorable rounded body, which increases their popularity.

    Most species of goldfish are bred in China or Japan. However, modern day pearlscale goldfish are bred and developed mainly in England. But like most fancy goldfish, ping-pong goldfish are bred and kept all over the world. Because there are specially bred goldfish, there are no Pearlscale fish in existence in the wild.

    What Does the Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like?

    What Does A Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like

    There are many ways to tell goldfish pearlscale apart from others:

    Body

    One of the first things you’ll notice when you lay your eyes on a pearlscale goldfish is its egg shaped round belly (many also compare it to a golf ball), which is offset especially by its compact and stubby body. In fact, this roundness is what inspires the “ping-pong goldfish” moniker.

    Accompanying the short and rounded body are beautiful fins that flow ethereally in the water. They have a single dorsal fin, while the rest of the fins are paired. Of these, the twin tailed fin is the most remarkable, as it has a forked appearance.

    The wen fish or crown pearlscale goldfish (named for the crown atop their head) have a slightly different appearance, with large and distinct bubbles on their heads. These is given the name of high-headed or hooded pearlscales.

    Scales

    What truly sets the pearlscale goldfish apart are its distinct scales, which are nacreous (reflective and translucent tissue). These scales are caused by calcium carbonate deposits due to a genetic mutation. Arranged in visually pleasing rows, these scales have a shiny and luminescent appearance that have a pearl like appearance (and hence the name!), and a bead-like texture.

    You won’t see these pretty nacreous scales until your goldfish are older, however. To the untrained eye, young fish of this goldfish species is difficult to tell apart from the common goldfish.

    Color

    The golfball pearlscale goldfish comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Most commonly found are solid colored specimens, which is covered in white, red, blue or black. Calico and chocolate brown varieties are also found of this beautiful freshwater pearlscale fish. There are many types of pearlscale goldfish available. The video below from Molly Babe Aquatics gives a great example of the variety out there.

    How Big are They?

    On average, a pearlscale goldfish will measure between 6 and 8 inches in length, and on rare occasions, 10 inches. One easy way to imagine their size is to think of the shape and size of oranges. 

    How Long do they Live?

    The average lifespan of a pearlscale is between 5 and 10 years, which is less than their non-fancy varieties due to their genetic makeup. Rarely, some goldfish pearlscale species live up to 15 years. It’s important to note the health problems that some pearlscale goldfish is exposed to in suboptimal living conditions. That’s why it’s important to know how to set up their tanks for maximum life and health.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    One of the reasons why pearlscales are so popular as pets is their docile and peaceful temperament. Furthermore, they’re slow moving, slow swimmers. Because of this, they are relatively low-maintenance, and they don’t exhibit aggression.

    Pearlscale goldfish are quite easy-going compared to other freshwater fish, preferring to spend their days swimming about slowly (unlike, for example, wakin goldfish who are known for fast swimming). However, just because they’re not fast swimmers doesn’t mean they have a low activity level: sometimes, they like to explore and play, so it’s a good idea to put them in a sizeable goldfish only tank.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Thinking of putting some pearlscale goldfish into an existing aquarium? Consider what fish make good tank mates for them, and which ones don’t:

    Good Tank Mates

    If you have a peaceful community aquarium, great news! Some pearlscale goldfish will make a wonderful addition to it, as they can cohabitate easily with other fancy goldfish and docile freshwater fish. Here are some good tank mates for pearlscale goldfish:

    Other than fish, certain snail species also go well with pearlscales, such as mystery and nerite snails.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Pond Goldfish For Koi

    As mentioned before, goldfish pearlscales are slow swimmers. As such, it’s important to keep them away from fast swimming and aggressive fish, because they might end up nipping at the fins of your pearlscales and out competing them for food. Accordingly, here are some fish species you should avoid putting in with your pearlscales:

    Furthermore, note that many tropical fish should not share the same aquarium as your pearlscales, as they have different temperature requirements. Even if no fin-nipping occurs with tank mates, feeding time will be difficult for your pearlscale goldfish if the tank mates are fast.

    What do They Eat?

    As omnivores who thrive on a healthy diet, pearscale goldfish will readily accept most food that you give them. The best kind of readymade food to give your pearlscales is calcium-fortified dry pellets and dry flakes, but only after it’s been soaked. This is because they have a sensitive digestive system and are prone to developing swim bladder disease.

    Pearlscales love vegetables, such as cucumbers, frozen peas (as well as deshelled peas), and lettuce. These are great for pearlscales as they keep intestinal problems (such as constipation) at bay. Make sure to steam vegetables before feeding them to fish to sterilize them

    Furthermore, limit protein for your pearlscales; it should make up only about 30% of their diet. Excessive protein can cause health complications for pearlscales.

    What About Live Foods?

    You can include live foods in your pearlscale’s diet every now and again. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, blood worms, blackworms, or Tubifex worms are good live food options for your pearlscale goldfish. Keep in mind the risks of diseases when feeding live food. The safest way to feed live food is to cultivate your own, but this is not for everyone.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    A balanced and healthy diet for a pearlscale goldfish will be one made up of a mix of high quality frozen, pellets, and flakes which are given to them at least twice a day. Only feed what your fish can eat in 2 minutes to avoid any excess food in the tank.

    Tank Requirements

    Fish Tank Size

    The recommended minimum size for a pearlscale goldfish aquarium is 20 gallons. Even better if you can make it 30.

    This is because, although they’re weak swimmers and slower swimmers than other similar goldfish species, pearlscales do like to swim around their aquarium. More importantly, they need a lot of oxygen and produce a lot of waste. A general rule of thumb is to add 10 gallons of tank capacity for every one fancy goldfish after the first 30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    Here are some particulars on setting up a freshwater aquarium for your pearlscale.

    Substrate

    A sandy substrate is the best option if you want to create a natural environment for your pearlscales. This is to mimic their natural environment as pearlscales enjoy digging through their substrate. If you go with gravel, it’s important to ensure that you’re getting larger and smoother gravel substrate. Otherwise, they might accidentally swallow some. 

    Decor

    One of the defining characteristics of pearlscales is that they have very delicate and breakable scales. This is why it’s important to avoid putting them in a crowded aquarium. If your existing tank has many decorations and aquarium rocks with sharp edges (or any other sharp objects), it’s best not to put your pearlscales in it as they might accidentally bump into them and have their scales fall off.

    If this happens, the fish will not regain its original “pearl” scales; instead, regular scales will grow in their place (although some aquarists say that additional calcium helps here, this is undocumented). That said, aquarium driftwood and plants are okay. You can smooth out driftwood with sandpaper and cut off sharp edges.

    Plants

    Plants are a great addition to a pearlscale goldfish aquarium, because these fancy goldfish love darting in between and playing with live plants. In fact, a natural pond-like habitat is very good for pearlscales. If you want to put live plants with your pearlscales, go with cold-hardy and beginner plants like Java fern, Hornwort, Anubias and Anacharis. Goldfish in general do not have an appetite for Java Fern and Anubias, but every individual fish is different.

    Editor’s Choice


    Java Fern


    Java Fern

    Editor’s Choice

    Hardy, easy to care for, and requires only basic lighting to grow. This is the perfect aquarium plant for beginners!


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    Pearscale Goldfish Care (Water Quality)

    Nutrition, clean water, and stress management are the keys to proper Pearlscale goldfish care. Let’s focus on filtration and maintenance.

    Filtration

    In the case of pearlscales, biological filtration is best as it allows for a high level of water quality, which keeps them safe from common aliments and stress.

    With a decent filtration system, both your fish’s waste and leftover food will be dealt with. This is particularly important because pearlscales are slow eaters and will take their time to get to their food. A hang on back filter at minimum are best to use given the high bioload these fish add to an aquarium.

    A canister filter should be considered for larger fancy goldfish tanks. Their large mature bulky mature sizes and general foraging habits generate a lot of waste particles in the water that need to be filtered out. A large filter like a canister will ensure mechanical filtration is top tier and nutrients is processed appropriately.

    In fish only fancy goldfish tank, a complete media like biohome is an ideal solution for keeping nitrates down when pairing with a canister. Biohome is amazing for high load fish only tanks – such as a large fancy goldfish tank.

    Editor’s Choice!


    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media


    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Editor’s Choice!

    This is the best media you can buy for your aquarium. It does it all – removes ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates


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    Water Parameters

    As the species of pearlscale goldfish isn’t naturally occurring, there is no natural habitat you can emulate for them in your tank. However, their preferences are well known. They can withstand a wide temperature range, and do well in cold water and neutral pH levels. Watch out for frequently fluctuating pH levels as this can cause disease and ill health. Nitrates is also a common issue with fancy goldfish tanks. Regularly testing your water will assist in determine the water change volume and frequency.

    Here are some specifics:

    • Water Temperature: 65.0 to 75.0° F
    • pH Range: 6.0-7.5
    • Hardness Range: 4 – 20 KH
    • Salinity: Below 10% (with a specific gravity below 1.002)
    • Water Movement: Moderate
    • Nitrates: Keep below 40

    Aquarium Maintenance

    The tank you place your pearlscale goldfish in should be well-maintained if you want them to stay healthy. Scheduled weekly water changes of 1/4 to 1/3 are required as pearlscales produce a lot of waste. As mentioned earlier, you can also choose to include snails in the tank as they make short work of algae and help to keep the tank clean. Since goldfish tanks require a lot of regular cleaning, an investment in a tool like a python cleaner can help save you time.


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    Python Cleaner

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    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Beyond providing a good filtration system for your pearlscale goldfish’s tank, consider the following set-up requirements:

    Tank Size

    As you already know, at least 30 gallons is required for housing a pearlscale goldfish, with an additional 10 added for each new goldfish you introduce into the tank. This large amount of water is required so that the waste is diluted, and it lets you keep water changes scheduled to once a week.

    Tank Shape

    A large surface area is optimal for keeping fancy goldfish as it prevents an oxygen shortage. Remember, the tank shape determines the surface area; as such, it’s best to go with an elongated tank as opposed to a tall one. If you want a round or oval tank for your goldfish, it should be narrow at the top and wide in the middle for maximum surface area.

    How to Breed

    In the right conditions, pearlscale goldfish can spawn easily and readily. They are egg layers who can breed in small groups as well as large ones.

    Breeding Conditions

    Start by providing a breeding tank that is at least 20 gallons. A few weeks before breeding, make it a point to separate the males and females as this will increase their interest to spawn. When you’re ready, release the males and females in at the same time. Avoid rough handling.

    Drop the temperature slowly to around 60°F, then gradually warm it at 3°F until spawning occurs., when the temperature is between 68° and 74°F, spawning will begin. This is a good time to feed your pearlscales live food such as worms and brine shrimp. Try to feed at least thrice a day. As for water changes, you should aim to make partial changes of about 20% per day.

    How to Tell if Your Pearlscales Will Start Breeding

    As the tank temperature increases, the male pearlscale will chase the female around (not aggressively) for several days. Both males and females will have a vivid, more intense color.

    If you see a gyrating action in your freshwater fish, that means they’re spawning. The female will be pushed against any plants inside the aquarium during the process, which will cause tiny eggs to drop out, which can then be fertilized.

    Goldfish eggs

    The spawning process can last up to 3 hours and produce about 10,000 eggs. Once this is done, remove the goldfish from the breeding tank, because they will start trying to eat the eggs. In 4 to 7 days thereafter, you should have a brand new group of juvenile pearlscale goldfish.

    Health and Disease

    Signs of Health

    If your pearlscales have shiny scales and eyes, are swimming about their tank most of the day, and feed periodically throughout the day, you can safely assume that they’re healthy and happy. They should also retain their round body shape.

    Signs of Ill Health

    If your fancy goldfish seem lethargic, aren’t eating much, have pale skin, are hollow-bellied, or have fraying fins or scale loss, that means their health or life expectancy is compromised. Here’s what is ailing them:

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Pearlscale goldfish are prone to being afflicted by all common freshwater fish diseases, such as fin rot, ich, flukes and fungus.

    Because pearlscale goldfish have long and flowy fins, they are particularly prone to fin rot, which mainly occurs in poor quality water. So to prevent this, you should aim to provide high quality water for your goldfish.

    Swim bladder disease is another commonly occurring disease in pearlscale goldfish. This is due to the compactness of their intestinal tract, which is easily affected by taking in too much food or even air. I go over swim bladder, dropsy and other serious goldfish aliments in my freshwater fish diseases post.

    Where to Buy

    As a common fancy goldfish, pearlscales are readily available in most pet shops, both online and off. However, the finest pearlscales are imported from countries like China. It is best to work with a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) online fish store to get select varieties.

    Is the Pearlscale Goldfish Right for You?

    Before adding a Pearlscale to your tank, here’s an honest breakdown of who should and shouldn’t keep one.

    Good fit if:

    • You want a visually distinctive display fish. The round body and pearl-like scales are unlike any other goldfish variety. It’s a genuine conversation piece.
    • You have a 20+ gallon tank with slow to moderate flow. Pearlscales are not strong swimmers and struggle in high current.
    • You’re keeping only other fancy goldfish varieties of similar size and speed: no comets, common goldfish, or fast-swimming species that will outcompete them for food.
    • You can feed at a slow, deliberate pace. Use sinking pellets or spot-feeding to ensure the Pearlscale actually gets its share.
    • You’re committed to cool water (65–72°F) and weekly water changes. Like all goldfish, Pearlscales produce heavy waste.
    • You can source from a quality seller. Poorly bred Pearlscales have exaggerated body shapes that worsen swim bladder issues.

    Avoid if:

    • You already have comets, common goldfish, or any fast-swimming goldfish variety. In a feeding competition, Pearlscales will lose every time.
    • Your tank has strong current or turbulent flow. The round body makes navigating current difficult and stressful.
    • You want a hardy, low-maintenance goldfish. Pearlscales are more fragile than most fancy goldfish. The round body is a tradeoff.
    • You keep species with sharp fins or known fin-nippers. Scale damage on a Pearlscale is permanent. The pearl texture doesn’t grow back normally.
    • You can’t provide temperature stability. Pearlscales are sensitive to temperature swings and need consistent conditions.

    🀷 ASD Difficulty Rating: Intermediate

    Pearlscales are more demanding than standard fancy goldfish due to their body shape. The swim bladder risk, feeding competition vulnerability, and permanent scale loss elevate them to intermediate. Genuinely rewarding to keep well. Just go in knowing the tradeoffs.

    How the Pearlscale Goldfish Compares to Other Fancy Goldfish

    Pearlscales occupy a specific niche even within the fancy goldfish world. All fancy goldfish need the same fundamentals (cold water, large tanks, heavy filtration), but Pearlscales have additional requirements driven by their body shape.

    Pearlscale vs. Oranda: Both are fancy goldfish needing cold water, heavy filtration, and large tanks. The Oranda has a dramatic wen that requires monitoring; the Pearlscale has the round body that creates swim bladder risk. Neither is definitively easier. Choose Oranda if the head-growth look is what you want; choose Pearlscale if you prefer the round-body silhouette without wen maintenance.

    Pearlscale vs. Ryukin: Ryukins are faster and more competitive at feeding time. In a mixed tank, Ryukins will consistently outcompete Pearlscales. If you want both, feed separately and watch closely. Better yet, keep only Pearlscales together. They do best with their own kind or other slow, similarly-sized fancy varieties.

    Pearlscale vs. Telescope Goldfish: Both are fragile fancy goldfish with distinctive physical features that create care considerations. Telescopes have protruding eyes vulnerable to injury; Pearlscales have round bodies vulnerable to swim bladder issues and scale damage. Both require similar tank setups and the same commitment. Choose based on which visual style you prefer.

    Hard Rule: Pearlscale goldfish cannot be kept with standard single-tail goldfish like commons or comets. The faster-swimming single-tails outcompete pearlscales for food, leaving them underfed despite appearing healthy. Same-type tank mates only.

    Closing Thoughts

    After this post, you should have a better understanding of the care and maintenance required for pearlscale goldfish. If you’re interested in learning more about freshwater fish or if you’ve been considering getting one as your first pet, please leave me a comment below! I’m happy to answer any questions that may come up while reading this blog post.

  • How To Care For The Frogspawn Coral In Your Reef Tank

    How To Care For The Frogspawn Coral In Your Reef Tank

    After growing corals in my own reef setups, if your parameters are not stable, this coral will not survive the first month. Corals do not die from wrong numbers. They die from unstable numbers. The difference between a thriving reef and a dying one is consistency, not perfection.

    Stable mediocre parameters beat perfect parameters that swing. Every time.

    Do you have a Frogspawn Coral in your reef tank? If so, congratulations, you have one of the most beautiful and beginner friendly LPS corals available in the hobby. They are hardy corals, but it’s important to know how to care for them if you want your tank to thrive. This blog post will cover everything you need to know about caring for this type of coral including light requirements, water flow preferences, feeding habits, and more!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameEuphyllia divisa (wall) and Euphyllia paradivisa (branching)
    Common NamesFrogspawn coral, less commonly known as the wall coral, octopus coral, grape coral, or honey coral
    FamilyEuphylliidae
    OriginIndo-Pacific, mainly around Australia and Southeast Asia
    Common ColorsGreens, Purples/Pinks, Browns, Oranges/Yellows
    Care LevelModerate
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    LightingModerate (50-150 PAR)
    Tank PlacementBottom, Middle
    Flow RateModerate
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 – 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8 – 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350 – 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250 – 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Frogspawn coral is found in large colonies around reef structures of Southeast Asia and Australia. There, they is found in indirect sunlight at depths of about 130 feet.

    Interestingly, these corals seem to prefer more turbid waters with gentle currents and muddy substrates, which is a very different environment from the aragonite-sand and clear water we strive for in our home reef aquariums.

    As a species of Euphyllia, frogspawns have sweeper corals that are full of stinging nematocysts that is used to catch planktonic organisms and attack nearby corals that might outcompete the colony for resources. Because of this, there is some space between frogspawn coral and the next coral species on the reef.

    Name

    There are believed to be at least two unique species of frogspawn coral present in the aquarium hobby, Euphyllia divisa (wall) and Euphyllia paradivisa (branching). However, the aquarium hobby has created many hybrids of Euphyllia that have made placing frogspawn into an exact taxonomic categorization difficult.

    The common name ‘frogspawn’ comes from their unique bubble-tipped appearance that resembles frog eggs.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Classic Frogspawn Coral

    The frogspawn coral is one of the most popular types of large-polyp stony coral (LPS) not only because of its easy care but also because of the flowing movement it can provide in a display.

    As mentioned before, frogspawn coral looks like a bunch of frog eggs; these corals have many tentacles with different-colored tips along them. These tentacles can range in color with greens, pinks, oranges, and browns, while the tips can contrast with darker or lighter greens, pinks, purples, yellows, and oranges.

    Of course, the brighter and more eye-catching the color, the more expensive the frogspawn coral will be.

    In general, most frogspawn corals you come across will be the branching variety. This means that each polyp will have its own calcium carbonate skeleton base. Branching frogspawns can grow very quickly by forming new heads at the base of the polyp which will then mature within several months in favorable conditions.

    This is in contrast to wall frogspawns, which are pretty rare to come across due to their slower growth rate and more difficult care. Instead of having defined polyps, wall frogspawns grow along a solid calcium carbonate skeleton, making the coral much more compact in appearance.

    Different Types

    Like other Euphyllia, frogspawn corals have been hybridized with each other and with other species. This has resulted in some spectacular colorations, but also some very unclear common names and designer brands.

    Here are some of the most common frogspawn colors you’re likely to come across:

    • Golden peach frogspawn coral. These corals are one of the more expensive types of frogspawn due to their pink coloration; their tentacles are dark purplish-pink while the tips are light pink with some yellow fluorescence under certain lights.
    • Purple tip frogspawn coral. Probably the most common coloration you’re likely to come across, the purple tip frogspawn is easy to confuse with a hammer coral due to same coloration. These corals have bright green tentacles with electric purple tips. While not the most desirable color combination, these corals can still bring movement to the tank and accent other Euphyllia.
    • Toxic green frogspawn coral. A common and less in demand type of frogspawn, the toxic green frogspawn glows neon under certain lights. These corals have dark green tentacles and light green tips that look like a highlighter pen.

    Both the purple tip and toxic green frogspawn coral are featured in the video above by Elite Reef Denver.

    Placement And Temperament In The Aquarium

    Frogspawn Placement

    Frogspawn coral is often used as a centerpiece coral in the reef aquarium. They can quickly fill up a rock island, gently swaying in the flow.

    While these corals can be placed anywhere throughout the reef tank, there are some things to keep in mind before gluing down that frag. The most important factors to consider are light and water flow.

    Frogspawns do not require a lot of light and are naturally found in indirect sunlight. While replicating indirect sunlight in the aquarium is difficult, placing your frogspawn in the middle to lower water column with moderate lighting (50-150 PAR) will recreate those conditions.

    Hobbyists agree that there is no true benefit to keeping these corals in higher lighting and can risk the health of the coral instead. If your coral starts to bleach and lose its color, then it is getting too much light.

    Similarly, frogspawns do best in moderate flow. The amount that their tentacles extend largely depends on the flow they are placed in; higher flows equal more retracted tentacles while lower flows result in more extended tentacles. Because of this, many hobbyists keep their corals in just enough flow to keep algae away and to keep the frogspawn fed. Flow is provided either with return pumps or wavemakers.

    Unlike other Euphyllia, like torch corals, frogspawns do not do well when placed on the substrate. This is because their tentacles fall over the sides of their skeleton, which can easily start to rub against sharp surfaces and invite injury.

    Frogspawn coral should also not be placed next to other corals due to their sweeper tentacles. If placed too close to another coral, be prepared for some chemical warfare to break out in your tank. This is true for all coral species except for other frogspawns and hammer corals (Euphyllia ancora, Euphyllia parancora, etc.). Keep them away from other aggressive Euphyllia like bubble corals.

    Interestingly, frogspawns is placed next to similar species (except torches) with little to no ill effect. They will continue to grow in and out of each other, which can make for a beautiful colony of many colors.

    Successful – Water Quality

    Frogspawn coral is very easy to keep and one of the best LPS coral species for beginner enthusiasts. As with any coral, stability is better than chasing numbers, though your water still should be testing within a given range.

    Water Parameters

    Euphyllia is not demanding in regards to nutrients, but will not do well with higher nitrates. At the same time, they also won’t do well if the tank is too clean and if there are limited nitrates and phosphates.

    Since the frogspawn coral be the first LPS coral for many, it is our introduction to reef aquarium water parameters. Frogspawn corals should be kept in nitrates below 40 PPM with phosphates below 0.1 PPM. They do need 1200-1350PPM magnesium, 350-450 PPM calcium, and steady alkalinity at 8-12 dKH; these nutrients are fundamental for growing new skeleton and maintaining vibrancy.

    As with any coral, frogspawn coral does best in stable conditions. While hobbyists have successfully kept frogspawn at values above and below those listed, consistency is more important.

    Dosing

    Dosing is not necessary for frogspawns unless the tank is filled with many LPS corals and small-polyp stony corals (SPS) that quickly deplete reef elements; if you have large colonies of Euphyllia, you may also want to consider dosing alkalinity, calcium, and other trace elements for healthy skeleton growth. ESV B-Ionic is a great choice for first time dosers. It works really well with dosing pumps while being easy to use for manual doing.

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    Testing Water Conditions

    Frogspawns are very forgiving when it comes to parameter swings, but that doesn’t mean that you can allow your tank to have daily changes in conditions. Because of this, LPS corals should only be added once the tank has fully established after several months.

    If dosing additional nutrients, water should be tested immediately after dosing and right before the next dose. This will allow you to trace how nutrients are being cycled throughout the tank.

    Filtration

    Frogspawn coral does not require any special filtration and is kept in setups with a hang on the back filter, canister filter, or sump filtration. A protein skimmer is also not necessary and might even be harmful to systems with low nutrient input.

    Instead, focus on getting the placement of your coral correct. Nutrients should constantly be flowing in and out of your coral with moderate flow.

    What Are Good Tankmates?

    Frogspawn corals is kept with a variety of fish and invertebrates. However, their soft fleshy polyps is appetizing for some species, so it is important to have a truly reef-safe community. Some ideal tankmates would be:

    It should be noted that some clownfish may attempt to host a frogspawn coral as it would with an anemone. Though some corals may tolerate this symbiosis, others will retract and could even begin to die back.

    Some invertebrates, like hermit crabs, emerald crabs, and shrimp, may also pose a threat to frogspawn as they are not entirely reef-safe. Even though you might have an invertebrate that has never touched any of your other corals before, it is possible for them to develop an appetite for frogspawns overnight.

    Likewise, fish species that are known to pick at corals should also be avoided. This includes:

    • Angelfish
    • Triggerfish
    • Groupers
    • Puffers
    • Parrotfish
    • Butterflyfish

    What Do They Eat?

    While frogspawn might look hungry with all those tentacles reaching for food, they’re actually best kept without any additional target feeding.

    Trying to feed your frogspawn coral larger foods, like fish and shrimp, can actually do more harm than good. This is because the polyp will see this food as a threat, which can cause it to retract.

    If your coral does accept the food, then your fish and invertebrates will also most likely steal it before the frogspawn has the chance to move the food into its mouth; either that or your coral will spit it out entirely!

    If really wanting to feed your frogspawn coral, then it is best to broadcast feed brine shrimp, zooplankton, and coral foods, like Reef Roids.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed

    If you do choose to feed your frogspawn coral, you should only feed once a week. This will not only help prevent nutrient buildup in your tank but there’s also no real benefit to overfeeding Euphyllia.

    More importantly, light, flow, and water quality will determine the growth rate of your frogspawn coral.

    Health And Disease

    The frogspawn coral is a hardy lps species but can die back very quickly once subjected to disease. The most important factor in keeping these corals is protecting their delicate tentacles.

    If their tentacles are scraped against rock or placed in high flow, they may succumb to stress or brown jelly infection or disease, which can kill the coral in a matter of days.

    To help prevent diseases from entering your reef aquarium when purchasing new corals, it’s recommended to do an iodine or coral bath and to quarantine the piece for a couple of weeks.

    Pests

    Of course, you will have to be mindful of bringing pests into the aquarium with any new corals you bring into the system as well. A coral dip and quarantine will help, but it’s still possible for these pests to slip by:

    How To Propagate

    Frogspawn coral is one of the fastest-growing species of Euphyllia, and you will probably have to frag your colony at some point. Don’t worry, this is easier than it sounds. First, you need to know if you have a branching or wall variety.

    If you have a branching variety, then your chances of success are very high. You will need a bone cutter or electric saw that can cleanly cut through the skeleton. Remove the coral from the tank and use the instrument to cut underneath the flesh of the frogspawn coral and before the branch. Dip the coral in iodine and place it in a low-stress environment until it recovers.

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    Wall frogspawns are harder to frag and success is not guaranteed. This is because you will need to cut through a good majority of flesh with a saw; a saw will provide the cleanest cut, increasing chances of success.

    There is no clean way to do this, but once the wall has been divided, dip the coral in iodine and place it in a low-stress environment. Monitor recovery and move the coral to its final place in the tank once fully healed.

    Where To Buy

    Because frogspawn coral is fast-growing, it is more available than some other Euphyllia, like torches. They also ship very easily, which makes them good online buys. However, expect to pay at least $50 for one frag with more colorful variations fetching closer to $200 and over.

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    Frogspawn
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    FAQs

    Are They Hard To Keep?

    Frogspawn Corals are not hard to keep. They are one of the easiest LPS corals you can keep and also one of the easier corals to keep in the saltwater aquarium trade. They are tolerate of less ideal conditions and do not respond as quickly to swings in parameter. Nevertheless, the more stable your tank is the better!

    Where Should I Place Them?

    You should place your frogspawn coral in the middle of your tank. They prefer moderate flow. In reef tanks setup for LPS corals, they is placed near the top of the water flow is lower and on the bottom and away from other corals in a mostly SPS coral configuration.

    Do They Grow Fast?

    Frogspawn corals do not grow fast. They are one of the slower growing corals in the aquarium trade. Because of this however, they will not demand a lot in terms of two part solution for dosing. You can increase the growth rate by better spectrum lighting, moderate flow

    Closing Thoughts

    Frogspawn corals are one of the best Euphyllia to have for beginner, intermediate, and advanced hobbyists as they are easy to care for, come in a variety of colors, and resemble an anemone without any of the aggression or over-splitting.

    These corals need moderate light and moderate flow, but will quickly start to grow new polyps once established. Feeding is not required and the coral can easily be cut as needed. I hope you’ve learned a lot about caring for your Frogspawn Coral in this blog post and that it has answered any questions or concerns you may have had. If not, please leave me a comment below with anything else on your mind!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • A care and info guide on the Monte Carlo Plant

    A care and info guide on the Monte Carlo Plant

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    The micranthemum Monte Carlo plant is one of the most popular carpeting plants for moderately lit freshwater tropical aquascapes. These aquatic plants are great for beginners and they grow fast, creating a dense and beautiful bright green carpet. That isn’t all they is used for, however, these tiny plants is grown as epiphytes too. Grown this way, they make for an eye-catching cascading carpet over hardscape features like driftwood and rock.

    This blog post will teach you how to care for your Monte Carlo Plant while also providing information about where it comes from, what it looks like, and more. Let’s get started!

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Intermediate – Planted Tank

    Monte carlo (Micranthemum tweediei) is a popular carpeting plant that requires CO2 injection, strong lighting (40+ PAR), and nutrient-rich substrate to form a dense carpet. Not suitable for low-tech tanks.

    A Brief Overview Of The Monte Carlo Plant

    Scientific Name Micranthemum tweediei
    Common Names Monte Carlo
    Family Scrophulariaceae
    Origin South America (Argentina)
    Skill Level Easy to Moderate
    Lighting Moderate 30-50 PAR (umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, midground
    Flow Rate Low, Moderate
    Temperature Range 68-77° F
    Height 1-2 Inches
    pH Range 6-7.5
    Propagation Division
    Growth Rate Moderate, Fast
    Feed Type Column and Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement Yes

    Origins And Habitat

    Micranthemum tweediei ‘Monte Carlo’ is a green freshwater plant from Argentina in South America. In nature, these aquatic plants are found in shallow freshwater systems like streams, lakes, and bogs that get plenty of sunlight.

    They are amphibious plants that is found growing underwater, on saturated ground, or growing emersed.

    What Does This Plant Look Like?

    How Does a Monte Carlo Plant Look Like

    Monte Carlo1 is a beautiful, light green-colored carpeting aquarium plant that grows as a dense, low, and spreading mound. Under good light, these aquarium plants spread laterally at a good rate, and don’t grow much taller than about 2 inches.

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo leaves are small and rounded and these plants have tiny roots. In appearance, this aquatic plant has a lot in common with another well-known carpeting plant, Dwarf Baby Tears.

    This aquatic plant works really well in Iwagumi and Dutch-style aquascapes but will suit any layout that demands for carpeting plants. With care and maintenance you can create foreground planted carpets that will be eye popping.

    Placement And Lighting

    Monte Carlo is most often grown as a carpet plant in the foreground and midground. The aquarium plant is pretty versatile, however, and works just as well if grown as an epiphyte.

    To grow this plant as an epiphyte, you can attach it to hardscape elements like driftwood, cave ornaments, or lava rock. If your hardscape element does not have suitable holes or cracks to hold the roots of this plant, you need to attach it using nylon thread or superglue.

    These aquarium plants need medium to high lighting to maintain a dense, low, and compact growth form. Plants grown under inadequate lighting will tend to grow tall and thin.

    Plants grown on hardscape features tend to be closer to the light source and therefore might do well under weaker light, but it’s always important to factor in the depth of the water.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo is great for community or species-only fish tanks. Especially where schooling fish are kept. Most species of tropical freshwater fish is kept with this aquarium plant, as long as they share the same water parameter needs. Some great smaller fish would include:

    Male Cherry Barb

    Fish Species To Avoid

    One of the greatest challenges to growing a beautiful carpet of Monte Carlo is getting the plants to stay put when you first plant them. Fish like corydoras catfish and Kuhli loaches that forage by sifting through the substrate can easily dislodge these plants before the carpet becomes well established.

    Monte Carlo carpets without CO2 in the right conditions. But right conditions means high light, nutrient-rich substrate, and patience. Skip any of those and the carpet never forms.

    Avoid growing this aquatic plant in goldfish tanks since this is a plant they will feed on. Other fish to avoid keeping with Monte Carlo are:

    Feeding A Plant (Fertilization)

    As an aquarium plant that gathers nutrients from both the substrate and the water column, Micranthemum Monte Carlo will benefit from a fertile growing medium as well as a liquid fertilizer. If grown in an inert substrate like gravel or sand, this excellent foreground plant will definitely benefit from the addition of root tabs.

    Plants grown on rocks and other hardscape features will need to get all the nutrients they need from the water column, making liquid fertilizer essential for good growth. For any carpeting and other heavy feeding plants, I recommend APT complete. It is the best all around liquid fertilizer on the market.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed

    How frequently you choose to feed this aquarium plant is going to depend on a couple of factors. Under high lighting and CO2, Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ will require a steady supply of nutrients to keep up with the fast growth that these conditions stimulate.

    This could mean daily to weekly doses of a supplement like Seachem flourish in the water column are needed. In tanks with only moderate lighting and a healthy stock of fish, you can get away with feeding once every week or two.

    CO2 Injection

    Monte Carlo, like all plants, needs light and carbon dioxide to grow. The background level of CO2 in aquariums is too low for this aquarium plant to develop into a tight, compact carpet. For this reason, CO2 injection is recommended for optimal growth.

    How Much CO2 Do You Need?

    The aquarist should aim to maintain dissolved CO2 levels of about 30ppm (parts per million) in their aquarium. This is the ‘sweet spot’ that results in optimal aquarium plant growth while remaining safe for fish and other livestock.

    Getting your CO2 levels to 30ppm can take a little fine-tuning, but with a bubble counter and drop checker, you should be able to get it dialed in. It takes a little while for dissolved CO2 levels to rise in the aquarium so start off slow. Keep an eye on the color of your drop checker and once it stays stable at the right levels, observe your bubble count.

    Whether you’re using a standard or an in-line diffuser, make sure you set your drop checker well away from the CO2 entering the tank for more accurate results. If you are looking for a combo package for a CO2 regulator. Check out this link.

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    How long Should You Run CO2?

    Plants can only grow effectively when they have access to enough CO2 and light. They use these energy sources at the same time so you only really need to run your pressurized CO2 system when the lights are on.

    It takes a little while for the CO2 in your aquarium to build up to that sweet spot of 30ppm, however, so ideally, you should be running your CO2 system on a separate timer that starts up about 2 hours before the lights go on. You can have your CO2 injection system shut down at the same time as the lights, or a little earlier because some CO2 will remain available in the system for a while.

    Plant Care

    Under good light and proper conditions, Micranthemum Monte Carlo grows pretty fast and is pretty invasive, which is great if you enjoy working on your aquascape, or maybe not that great if you’re looking for a low-maintenance option.

    This species also has a habit of crowding out other aquatic plants so if you’re looking for a mixed species carpet, this may take a bit of extra trimming on your part.

    Apart from trimming with a sharp pair of curved trimming scissors, it’s also possible to thin out your Monte Carlo carpet using a fine pair of aquascaping tweezers or pincettes. This is a delicate procedure though, the aquarist needs to take care not to uproot more of the aquarium plant than is necessary. Regular trimming is a must to keep the dense shape of this plant.

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    Planted Tank Conditions

    The Monte Carlo plant does best in freshwater tropical aquariums that are on the cooler side, say between 68-77° F. These plants have a pretty wide tolerance for water hardness.

    They need a decent amount of light, especially if you want a dense, low growing carpet in the foreground and midground of your aquascape. Although these plants is grown without added CO2, they will perform better if this is provided.

    Maintaining parameters

    Monte Carlo in Aquarium

    Being a dense carpeting aquarium plant, Micranthemum Monte Carlo will tend to capture fish waste and detritus and keep it trapped within its foliage (Picture Source). Although this can provide nutrients to the plant, it will result in ammonia spikes in time if left unmanaged.

    For this reason, a dense carpet of Monte Carlo is not advised in tanks with high stocking rates and a lot of waste. A good clean-up crew of small inverts like freshwater shrimp is also helpful in this regard.

    It is possible to vacuum over a Monte Carlo plant carpet to capture waste that has collected beneath it but special care should be taken to not uproot the plants in the process as they tend to have pretty week root systems. Some aquarists have had success by fitting a grid-like material over the end of their vacuum to help to prevent sucking up the plants.

    Water Quality

    Maintaining great water quality and tank conditions is important for all aquarium plants and animals, and Monte Carlo is no exception. In tanks with fish, a partial water change every week or two is recommended and this is a great time to test water parameters with aquarium test kits and give your plants a trim too.

    Be sure to use a water conditioner during water changes to neutralize harmful chemicals that may be present in your local tap water.

    Filtration

    It is best to use a filter with a pre-filter sponge over its inlet when growing fine aquarium plants like Monte Carlo. This is because trimmings or small plants that have come loose from the substrate can get sucked into your filter and cause blockages. Due to the nature of this plant, a high quality hang on the back filter or canister filter is recommended to keep the aquarium clear of plant and matter debris.

    Flow

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo has pretty small, fine roots that are easily loosened from the substrate. For this reason, direct, strong flow is a bad idea as it can dislodge your carpet.

    Some flow is important, however, as this ensures a good distribution of CO2 and nutrients throughout your tank and keeps waste particles from settling on your plants before they is processed in the filter. Grow this aquarium plant in a tank with a low to moderate flow for best results.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Water Conditions

    Regular testing of water conditions should be part of your aquarium maintenance routine. You can use either strip tests or liquid tests, but be sure to keep an eye on parameters like ammonia and nitrites, particularly if you have livestock in your aquascape.

    Other important parameters to keep an eye on in the aquarium are pH, general hardness, and carbonate hardness. You should, of course, also have a thermometer and keep an eye on your water temperature regularly to alert you to a malfunctioning heater.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium

    Monte Carlo is grown in a few different ways. These plants is started off using the dry-start method or simply planted into the substrate of an established aquascape using a pair of fine aquarium tweezers. The video below from WASABI describes how to plant and prep this plant.

    Use a good quality aqua-soil as your substrate, or if using an inert substrate, be sure to use root tabs from time to time to provide nutrients to the root zone. A third substrate option is to use a layer of an inert material like sand or gravel over a layer of nutrient-containing dirt.

    Monte Carlo plant roots will develop better in gravel than sand, although the plants is pretty easily dislodged from the substrate in a really coarse medium, so go for a substrate with a moderate texture.

    As a small, carpeting plant, this species is grown in just about any size aquarium, from just a few gallons and up.

    Although it is possible to grow this aquatic plant without added Co2, Monte Carlo will definitely perform better if this is provided.

    How To Propagate

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo spread quickly and is easily propagated by division, as long as the sections you take have both healthy leaves and roots.

    When planting out in your tank to create a carpet effect in your aquascape, simply break up a mass of Monte Carlo into sections of about half an inch or less across, each with its own roots, and then plant them in a grid pattern at a spacing of an inch or two apart. Although this looks pretty unnatural at first, the plants will spread quickly to fill the gaps and create a beautiful natural lawn-like effect.

    You will find that the plants come loose from the substrate very easily when you first plant them and this is pretty frustrating. One way to avoid this is to plant them a little deeper than you think they should go.

    With more of the plant beneath the surface of the substrate, they tend to sit a lot more firmly. Use a fine pair of tweezers or pincettes for this job and push each plant into the substrate at a 45° angle.

    If you’re still having trouble getting your plants anchored, consider keeping them in their pot and letting them spread out and root themselves naturally from a central point. The process will take a little longer but could save you some frustration.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health in Plants

    Healthy Monte Carlo will grow pretty vigorously and spread quickly in the aquarium. In good conditions, this aquarium plant stays low and compact, with short stems and small bright green leaves.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Plants that are not happy will show you a few signs. Monte Carlo plants that turn yellow or brown, or grow tall and thin require attention.

    Plants that grow tall and thin are looking for light and this is a sure sign that your aquarium lighting is not strong enough. Yellowing leaves can signal a lack of nutrients or even a lack of carbon dioxide.

    If you find that your plants are getting covered in algae, you need to adjust the amount of fertilizer you’re dosing and the strength and hours of light you’re running.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    It is common for an aquatic plant to melt back when newly planted in the aquarium. If conditions are otherwise good, your plant should adapt to its new environment pretty quickly and bounce back with healthy new growth.

    Plant Pests

    To avoid introducing unwanted pests like snails into your aquascape, consider buying your Monte Carlo as a Tissue culture vs potted plants that’s grown in pest-free lab conditions.

    If you’re growing your plants from material propagated in more traditional ways, you’ll want to make sure to wash your plants off properly under running water and remove any dead or dying leaves.

    Have a good look at the plant and remove any unwanted critters if you can see any. You can also dip your plants in a very mild solution (20 parts water to 1 part bleach) of bleach to kill unwanted parasites and creatures. You need to be very careful with delicate plants like Monte Carlo as the bleach can damage the plants too.

    If you do go this route, be sure to dip them for less than about 2 minutes and give them a good rinse afterward to remove all traces of bleach.

    Where To Buy

    Monte Carlo is a common aquarium plant in the aquarium trade and is found at many fishkeeping and online fish stores. I recommend purchasing tissue culture plants vs potted plants as they are a great way to get pest free live plants and they have great shelf lives.


    Monte Carlo Tissue Culture - UNS


    Monte Carlo Tissue Culture – UNS

    Tissue culture plants are grown in labs and are completely pest free and have great shelf lives


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    FAQS

    Are they easy to grow?

    Monte Carlo is an easy carpet aquarium plant for tropical aquariums. In optimal conditions with good light and CO2, this plant can grow pretty quickly, and cover the substrate in your aquarium in just a few weeks.

    Can they grow without soil?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo is grown as an epiphyte, without any contact with soil. If attached to a hardscape element like driftwood or an ornament by wedging it into a hole or gluing, this aquarium plant will grow by taking all the nutrients it needs from the water column.

    How do you take care of a your plant?

    Monte Carlo is an easy carpet aquarium plant to take care of once it is established in the aquascape. Provided you maintain the correct water parameters, and have enough light, nutrients, and CO2, these plants will grow fast.

    All you really have to do then is trim your Monte Carlo carpets regularly to prevent them from growing too thick and shading out the lower stems and leaves.

    Can they grow on rock?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo can grow on rock, provided you find a good way to attach it. This is easiest if the rock you have has a good texture like lava rock with cracks and holes for the roots to hold on to.

    Monte Carlo grown as an epiphyte in this way might need extra liquid feeding though because they aren’t getting any nutrients from the substrate.

    Hard Rule

    Monte carlo requires CO2 injection to carpet effectively. Without CO2, it grows slowly, turns yellow, and rarely forms a proper carpet no matter how much fertilizer you add. CO2 is the non-negotiable requirement.

    Closing Thoughts

    Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is a wonderful plant for vibrant green dense carpets in the aquascape. This plant is easy to care for and grows at a good rate if given the proper growing conditions.

    This plant has other uses besides carpeting and works well as an epiphyte on hardscape features as well. Using the tips and information in this guide, you can make Monte Carlo a beautiful new addition to your aquascape. We hope you enjoy this blog post about Monte Carlo Plants! Leave us your comments below on what you think of these miniature green beauties or if there’s anything else you want to know more about them?

    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • How to Care For A Torch Coral – Your Expert Guide

    How to Care For A Torch Coral – Your Expert Guide

    After growing corals in my own reef setups, torch Coral is one of the most sought-after LPS corals in the hobby, and it has a disease problem. Torch coral syndrome, a form of rapid tissue necrosis, has wiped out collections overnight. Sourcing healthy specimens from reputable sellers is more important than any placement or flow advice.

    A healthy torch coral is stunning. An infected one kills every torch in your tank within days.

    The Torch Coral is a brightly colored and beautiful type of coral that is found in reef aquariums around the world. They are characterized by their long tentacles, which they use to feed on plankton from the water column. When cared for properly, Torch Corals will grow and thrive in your tank. In this blog post, I am going to show you how to care for a torch coral so that you can enjoy them for years!

    We’ll cover what types of lights are best for Torch Coral growth and maintenance as well as other factors that can make or break your Torch Coral experience. We’ll also go over feeding schedules and anything else you need to know about caring for a Torch Coral. I hope this article helps you better understand how to keep your Torch Coral happy and healthy so it is admired by all!

    A Brief Overview Of The Torch Coral

    Scientific NameEuphyllia glabrescens
    Common NamesTorch coral, pom-pom coral, brain trumpet coral
    FamilyEuphylliidae
    OriginIndo-Pacific, Australia, Indonesia
    Common ColorsGreens, Purple/Pinks, Browns, Oranges/Yellows
    Care LevelModerate
    TemperamentSemi-Aggressive to Aggressive
    LightingModerate (50-150 PAR)
    Tank PlacementBottom, Middle
    Flow RateModerate
    Temperature Range76-82 degrees F
    pH Range8.0 – 8.4
    Salinity1.025 or 35 PPT
    Alkalinity8 – 12 dKH
    Calcium Level350 – 450 PPM
    Magnesium Level1250 – 1350 PPM
    PropagationCutting/Fragging

    Origins And Habitat

    Like many other corals available in the aquarium trade, the torch coral comes from the warm waters of the Indo-Pacific around Australia and Indonesia1.

    There, torch corals is found among other large-polyp stony corals (LPS) and small-polyp stony corals (SPS). However, torch corals have long sweeper tentacles that are used for catching food and stinging nearby corals and sessile animals that might try to steal resources. Because of this, the area surrounding the torch coral is clear around all sides.

    Torch corals are very forgiving of water parameters but may struggle in conditions with higher nitrates. Interestingly, they have been found in waters with varying levels of turbidity which is much different from the sparkling, pristine waters of our home aquariums.

    These corals cannot withstand higher flow rates as their delicate flesh is easily damaged.

    What Does The Torch Coral Look Like?

    How Does a Torch Coral Look Like

    The torch coral resembles a flickering flame when submerged under a decent flow. These corals have polyps with long tentacles that is a mixture of greens, purples, pinks, browns, oranges, and yellows.

    Torch corals are stony lps corals that are part of the Euphylliidae family, which makes them close relatives to frogspawn corals (Euphyllia divisa) and hammer corals (Euphyllia ancora). While care and appearance are similar between these species, they is told apart by some key features.

    Mainly, torch corals have long, skinny tentacles. The bottoms of the tentacles are noticeably darker than the round tips of the tentacles and are a different color altogether. A frogspawn coral has thicker, branching tentacles while a hammer coral has shorter, wider tentacles with flattened tips.

    Each torch coral polyp can measure up to 10 inches across with another 10 inches in tentacle. Transparent sweeper tentacles maybe even longer than normal tentacles as they extend their reach for optimal feeding and territory defense.

    As a type of large-polyp stony coral, torch corals have hard calcium carbonate skeletons. Unlike other euphillyas the Hammer Coral, torch skeletons are branching. Branching torches have defined coral polyps each with its own skeleton base whereas wall corals are a straight line of coral polyps with one connected skeleton.

    Different Types

    Many varieties of torch coral have been brought into the aquarium hobby with differences in color, tentacle length, and hardiness; in general, the more attractive the color, the more expensive the coral. Luckily, care doesn’t differ too much between the varieties.

    Types of Torch Corals

    Here are the more rare and expensive varieties of torch coral you’re likely to come across:

    • Indo gold torch (AKA Holy Grail Torch). The gold torch is named after its deep orangey-green tentacles and lighter green tips. This variety has longer, skinnier tentacles and is said to be more forgiving of unfavorable water conditions than the Aussie gold torch.
    • Aussie gold torch. The Aussie torch is similar to the Indo gold torch but has orangey-gold tentacles with bluish-purple tips. The easiest way to tell these two torches apart is by looking at the difference in tentacle length; Aussie gold torches have much shorter and stubbier tentacles.
    • Black torch. The black torch is named after its intense purple coloration with neon green tips and does not require special care.

    Placement And Temperament In The Aquarium

    Torch Coral Placed Mid Tank

    Torch coral placement varies in the aquarium. Some hobbyists prefer keeping them in lower lighting with the lower flow for the greatest tentacle extension. Other hobbyists like to keep their torches in moderate lighting with a higher flow to deter algae.

    There doesn’t seem to be any benefit to placing torch corals under higher PAR (150+ PAR), and they might actually start to bleach if exposed to unfavorable conditions for too long; some hobbyists like to keep them on the sandbed if lighting and flow allow in order to keep other corals from getting stung. Most reef leds will support a Torch coral. The main thing will be to adjust light intensity or placement to get them within the desired PAR level.

    Torch corals tend to do better under moderate flow, Higher rates of flow will cause your coral to not extend as far. Higher flow rates are beneficial for delivering food and keeping algae off the skeleton. As long as the water current isn’t directly hitting the polyp, then your torch coral should be able to withstand most flow rates.

    Torch corals are moderately aggressive corals and will defend their place in a reef aquarium. At night, these corals will extend their sweeper tentacles in order to feed and to keep other corals from getting too close. Because of this, they should be given enough room to expand and release their sweeper tentacles; this is especially true for other corals that are behind the torch as the sweeper tentacles move with the water flow.

    Water Quality

    Overall, torch corals are relatively easy to keep and are recommended for beginner to medium-skilled coral enthusiasts. That being said, they do tend to be more sensitive to fluctuations in water parameters and poorer water conditions than other coral species of Euphyllia.

    Water Parameters

    Even though torch corals have sweepers, they heavily rely on the water column to provide the nutrients they need to grow and develop new skeletons. Surprisingly, the problem that most hobbyists run into is having too clean of a tank.

    Torch corals need nitrate and phosphate; running 0 PPM phosphates and 0 PPM nitrates deprives the coral of important nutrients needed for development and sustaining their vibrant colors. At the same time, these corals don’t do well in high nutrients either.

    Ideally, nitrates should be kept under 40 PPM and phosphates below 0.1 PPM. Torch corals also require steady magnesium levels (1250-1350 PPM), calcium levels (350-450 PPM), and alkalinity levels (8-12 dKH) to continually grow.

    Of course, hobbyists have gone above and below these ideals with success. As long as conditions are stable and your corals look happy, then you have no need to worry.

    Filtration

    Torch corals do not require any special filtration. More importantly, placement and flow need to be correct.

    As long as your torch is getting enough light and a strong enough current to carry food and keep off algae, then hang on the backs, sumps, protein skimmers, and canisters work just as well.

    Maintaining parameters

    As mentioned before, stability is key. Even though torch corals are more influenced by water parameters than other Euphyllia, as long as your tank is testing within a given range and staying accurate, then your torch coral will stay fully extended.

    Dosing

    It is agreed that dosing is not required for torch corals and other Euphyllia corals; for the most part, these corals will get the nutrients they need from food, fish waste, and the salt mix being used.

    However, if keeping a larger colony of torches or a mixed reef with SPS, then some hobbyists might choose to dose for alkalinity, calcium, and other trace elements to help with skeleton growth.

    Testing Water Conditions

    If choosing to dose for alkalinity or calcium, then you will want to regularly test water conditions to see how your corals are incorporating those additives.

    In order to do this, test water parameters right after dosing. Before the next dose, test the nutrients that you have been targeting. Keep a record of the numbers to watch how they interact and decrease between doses.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Torch corals is kept with any reef-safe fish or invertebrate. This includes:

    It is possible that clownfish will attempt to host a torch coral, but this can cause the coral to stress out and keep its tentacles retracted.

    It should also be noted that ‘reef-safe’ invertebrates, like emerald crabs, hermit crabs, and some shrimp, may not be reef-friendly for fleshy large polyp stony corals. Too many times hobbyists have had a helpful crab become hungry for corals overnight and destroy a reef. For the best security, stick to herbivores instead.

    Tankmates to avoid are:

    Anything that has noticeable teeth or pincers is not a good combination for a reef tank!

    What Do They Eat? (Feeding)

    Torch corals don’t eat the same way other animals do that have a mouth in the middle of their polyp, like the similar-looking anemone. In fact, most torch corals will refuse larger foods, like shrimp and other pieces of meat.

    If really interested in feeding torch corals for the extra nutrition, brine shrimp, zooplankton, and coral foods, like Reef Roids, are good choices.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed

    If choosing to feed your torch coral, you should not overfeed. Some hobbyists never spot feed or give additional supplements to their corals and have substantial growth and vibrant colors. Others feed high-quality foods and see little to no growth. Coral success is largely based on water quality, lighting, and flow.

    That being said, torch corals should only be fed once a week at maximum in order to allow time for your coral to digest and to keep water conditions more stable.

    Health And Disease

    During the daytime, your torch coral polyp should be fully extended with bright coloration. If purchasing a new coral, remember that coral will never look like how it does in the store or on online websites. This is simply due to differences in lighting and sometimes, color enhancement.

    Euphyllia corals are very susceptible to brown jelly disease, which can cause the coral to die within a few days. Other bacterial infections are also very likely to come in on new torches, and the corals should be dipped and preferably quarantined before being placed in the display aquarium.

    Pests

    Like all corals, torch corals can bring in unwanted pests. Common pests you will need to look out for are:

    • Flatworms
    • Aiptasia
    • Isopods
    • Amphipods

    In order to eliminate the threat of pests as much as possible, a coral dip should be used and the frag plug should be removed; again, quarantine will improve the chances of catching pests, but even then, it’s possible that they still slip by undetected.

    How To Propagate

    Fragging corals that are branching like torches are easy to do but will require some extra tools to ensure success. The best way to frag torches is by using an electric saw or bone cutters. Carefully, you want to cut the skeleton between the start of the flesh and where the coral branches. Use iodine to help disinfect and superglue the frag to a plug. Branching corals are easier to fag with proper bone cutter tools.

    Leave the piece near the sand bed and in low to medium flow until ready to acclimate to higher lighting and water current.

    Wall corals are more difficult to frag and have a lower success rate. This is because you will need to cut through the flesh of the coral, which can fatally injure it if not careful. Because of this, it is highly recommended to use a sharp electric saw like a Gryphon bandsaw to cut through the piece of the skeleton.

    Use the best coral disinfectant product available and keep the frag in a low-stress environment until ready to move to its final location in the aquarium.

    Where To Buy

    Over the past few years, torch corals have been hard to find and the prices reflect that. On average, be prepared to spend upwards of $150 for a high-quality torch coral frag.

    Torch Corals
    Torch Corals

    Torch Corals are an amazing looking LPS coral. Unique looking with lots of exotic varieties

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    These corals ship well overnight and is purchased online or in-store. If you purchase online, my preference would be to purchase only what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) corals

    Closing Thoughts

    Torch Coral care is a rewarding experience, but it can also be challenging. I hope this article helped you better understand how to keep your Torch Coral happy and healthy so that you can enjoy its beauty for years to come! Comment below if there are any more questions I haven’t answered in the article or on our site. I know caring for these beautiful creatures isn’t always easy, but hopefully, with some knowledge from this post, things will get easier as time goes by. Happy reefing!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. Your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • How Much Are Koi Fish? What Drives the Price From $5 to $1.8 Million

    How Much Are Koi Fish? What Drives the Price From $5 to $1.8 Million

    Koi are pond fish. Not aquarium fish. They reach 2 to 3 feet long and live 25 years or more. The commitment is closer to owning a dog than keeping a fish tank.

    Koi outlive most pets. Make sure your pond plan matches a 25-year commitment.

    Koi pricing spans one of the widest ranges of any animal in the hobby. From a few dollars for feeder koi to a Kohaku that sold for $1.8 million in Japan in 2018. Most pond keepers are operating somewhere in the middle, which is actually a great place to be. I’ve seen koi vendors at Aquashella selling beautiful, healthy fish for $20. $100, and that’s where most hobbyists will spend. What drives the high end is a combination of variety, pattern symmetry, body shape, bloodline, and whether the fish came from a top Japanese breeder. Here’s how to understand what you’re actually paying for.

    The most expensive Koi fish sold in Japan was worth $1.8 million in 2018. 

    Koi fish are known to adorn garden ponds, restaurant interiors, and lounge space for their beautiful lineage and bizarre coloring. But do you know, how much are Koi fish and what exactly adds to their worth? In this article, I’ll list some mind-boggling factors that determine Koi fish’s cost and overall quality of a Champion Koi.

    Why are Koi fish so expensive? (12 Reasons That Explain How Much Are Koi Fish)

    There’s no one answer to this question (in fact, that’s why we created this video above from our YouTube channel). The worth of Koi fish highly depends on some obvious factors such as the quality of Koi, colors, and patterns. On the basis of quality and price, Koi fish are categorized into three classes;

    • Pond raised Koi – The Koi that we raise in ponds are the easiest to find and the cheapest in the market.
    • Ornamental quality Koi – The popular category that we raise as ornamental fish, such as Butterfly Koi. These are cheaper than the show-quality Koi fish but a bit pricey than the pond-raised fish.
    • Show quality Koi – The highest quality of Koi fish all around the world and the costliest. These are raised for competitions and Japanese Koi shows.

    However, not all Koi qualify as the Grand Champion and some might end up in the bargain bin. As an avid Koi enthusiast, I’ll specify some of the greatest reasons for Koi’s unrivaled value.

    1. Successful Spawning

    Any Koi keeper would agree; despite thousands of Koi eggs during the spawning behavior, only 20% of quality Koi survive, sometime the survival is by chance. The survival chances make Koi more cherished and an expensive pet fish.

    But what exactly is a spawning behavior?

    Koi Spawning Behavior

    The process of spawning in Koi fish happens once a year when male Koi show great interest in the female Koi fish and keep following them for a day or two. Finally, the male Koi, in the early morning chase and nudge the Koi fish, and this is how the spawning begins.

    During spawning, the female Koi lay thousands of eggs that are then fertilized by interested males immediately.

    Now, this is where the quality and high prices come in.

    The Egg Stage

    Koi eggs stick to whatever they come in contact with., Koi fish like to deposit their eggs in aquatic plants such as water hyacinth and water lettuce. Therefore, I always encourage plants in a Koi pond if you want to breed them. However, around 20% of the thousands and thousands of eggs die of fungus, infertility, or eventually rot to death.

    The Hatchlings

    Under favorable water conditions, the eggs hatch in around 4-5 days. The hatchlings feed on their yolk sac until they are fully capable to eat food. Nevertheless, 20% of the hatchlings die before they are 1 inch long.

    The Culling Process

    , only 60% of Koi fish reach 1 inch in length and make it through the hatching phase. This is where the farmers start the culling process.

    During the process, breeders discard all of the bad and deformed fish into the bargain bin. Hence, the healthy Koi fry feeds on a high-protein diet for around 3-4 weeks for further inspection when they reach around 2 to 3 inches. After a couple of weeks, breeders examine the baby Koi and discard another 15% of Koi into the bargain bin. And so, only the best, high-quality Koi makes it to the Grand Champion Koi list.

    After successful tallying of the Koi fish, they are either sold locally or internationally for hundreds to thousands of dollars.

    2. Body Conformation or Shape

    Koi Body

    Novice Koi hobbyists often overlook the conformation or body shape of Koi fish, mainly because they are not aware of its worth.

    However, let me tell you;

    The quality and cost of Koi fish are highly dependent on its body shape. The award-winning Koi fish is free of any defects and deformation in body shape. The ideal conformation of Koi fish is a torpedo-shaped, symmetrical body with even fins, corresponding to the body.

    3. Colors and Patterns Diversity

    One thing that outshines Koi is the color variety and fascinating patterns that keep the spectators in awe.

    The colors in Koi is classified into six extraordinary variations ranging from metallic and white to blue, yellow, red, and black. Nonetheless, not all the colors and patterns are as appreciated by Koi owners. Hence, the high pricing.

    Also, the depth of Koi skin cells affects the vividness of Koi. That being said, the brighter the Koi, the costlier. 

    Therefore, Koi breeders particularly pick the best colors and develop them into a brighter appearance through nutritious food for a heftier price tag.

    The Grand Champion Koi that sold for $1.8 million in Japan had sultry red patches on a white body surface that sparkled like diamonds. And so in an enthusiast mind, the cost was justified.

    Thus, the rarity and purity of colors and patterns increase the value of Koi fish.

    4. The Biosecurity of Koi farms

    Experienced Koi breeders maintain strict biosecurity in farms to prevent fish diseases and keep an active protocol for their inventory.

    These Koi ponds are in remote places to prevent the contamination of water through pathogens, and all of this costs substantial money.

    5. The need for a Large Pond

    Unlike goldfish, guppies, and other commercial aquarium fish, Koi demands a huge pond for their survival.

    The depth and intensity of Koi’s color and luster depend on water quality, therefore, Koi breeders prefer breeding and raising them in large ponds.

    Consequently, a Koi farm needs a vast space with sufficient ventilation and filtration that add to its overall yield.

    6. The import Costings

    No matter what you do and how you do it. Let’s admit this – The quality of Japanese Koi is second to none and unmatchable. Therefore, all countries import show quality Koi from Japan, and this also adds to the ultimate price of Koi fish.

    7. Connoisseur’s Craze

    I’ll be honest here, it’s a game of supply and demand.

    The more the demand, the higher the cost.

    People are crazy about Koi. Thus, Koi are expensive. In Japanese culture, Koi is a sacred pet that brings good luck and prosperity to the family.

    And so, people show immeasurable affection towards Koi. They want it in their garden ponds, large indoor aquariums, and for winning the grand competitions, including the most popular All Japan Grand Koi Competition. Hence, the mad price. Let’s look at some Grand Champion Koi from the show itself over the years. Check out Koi Port Indonesia for more videos:

    8. High-quality Koi Luster

    High-quality Koi fish are free of blemishes and the skin is lustrous and rich with pigments. Just like you can easily distinguish between cotton and silk. The high-quality Koi can easily be recognized through its shimmery lustrous body.

    9. The Overall Personality – Quality & Elegance

    The judgment of quality and elegance on the basis of Koi’s personality is an arbitrary choice. However, Koi connoisseurs rely on this factor heavily. High-quality Koi fish are proven to perform exceptionally, be it swimming or socializing (aggressive or slow Koi fish are naturally devalued.)

    Also, Koi owners judge the fish by their body movements and how gracefully they flex their bodies in the water. If the Koi fish looks healthier and energetic among the shoal, it is always rated higher. 

    10. Extended Breeding time

    The breeding of Koi is not everyone’s cup of tea.

    Unlike guppies and bettas, Koi breeding needs patience and resilience. Any breeder will at least need 3 to 5 years to nourish and sell the show-quality Koi in the market.

    11. Distinctive Features

    Breeding Koi fish is a life-changing experience, and breeders put everything at stake to hit the jackpot.

    Sometimes, when breeders are being a little adventurous, they might interbreed some of the rarest and quirkiest fish with distinctive qualities. The result is an extraordinary baby koi that manifests in magnificent colors and patterns.

    Hence the breeders demand an exceptionally high price for Koi fish with such peculiar qualities.

    12. Heritage and Legacy

    You would be surprised to know that Koi fish, in their early years, were only bred for food. However, as time passed, breeders started seeing great potential in breeding the fish and making a living out of it. Nowadays, Koi fish are kept for their extravagant patterns and exquisite colors in landscaped ponds and large aquariums.

    Did you know?

    Even though Koi are commonly called Japanese Carp, they did not originally originate from Japan. Their exact origin is highly debatable by the Koi experts.

    Nishikigoi

    The carp that we call Koi, is Nishikigoi, which is termed as living jewels or brocaded carp. Nishikigoi possesses wonderful patterns and colors that we adore and love today.

    Although Koi is not originated from Japan, Japanese breeders get the credit for fine-turning and breeding them to the remarkable color variations we witness now.

    The Big Three

    There are 15 major types of Koi but the most popular among them are the three varieties namely, Kohaku, the Sanke, and the Showa. These varieties of Koi fish are commonly called, the big three in the USA and Europe.

    What determines a Champion?

    Even after years of breeding Koi fish, many breeders still couldn’t master the art of raising a Champion Koi.

    According to Koi fish experts, the cost of Koi depends on the diverging intensity and depth of the colors. Also, there is an ideal size for a very expensive Koi fish.

    The most prized Koi is not very large. Rather, they are 1.5 feet long with a torpedo-shaped body.

    But how do experts judge Koi for a Grand Champion?

    Well, they have their ways. However, there are five factors that determine a Champion Koi.

    • Overall Body Size
    • Shape and Body Conformation
    • Patterns
    • Color Depth
    • Intensity

    Overall Body Size

    Like in many departments, the bigger the size, the better. The same is the case with Koi fish. 

    A larger size Koi fish has reached maturity and thus its full potential. Therefore, the ideal size for Champion Koi is as long as it can handle without compromising its color intensity and depth.

    Big Girl, reportedly known as the largest Koi fish to date, weighs 40kg (90lbs) and is 1.2m (4 feet) long.

    Shape and Body Conformation

    Grand Champion Koi Sanke

    About 60% judging score of a Champion Koi makes up the body shape and conformation of Koi fish (2010 Champion Sanke showed above1).

    For the fish to qualify as a Champion Koi, it should have a long, broad head with a symmetrical tail and pectoral fins. Also, it should have a beautiful streamlined shape with thin bodies.

    Any deformities, be it around the eyes, mouth, or fin areas are a minus. Furthermore, fins should be in optimal condition with no fraying or wear and tear.

    It is observed that female Koi tend to win majority shows because of their peculiar shape and body conformation.

    Patterns

    The judgments based on patterns are a bit difficult to understand for novice Koi keepers.

    Nonetheless, I’ll make it sound easy-peasy.

    On the basis of patterns, we classify Koi fish in several categories. What judges basically look for is the clear and crisp outlines or edges, colloquially known as ‘Kiwa’ (meaning: verge, side, edges).

    Therefore, if we speak about Koi, the edges or Kiwa constitute the hi (red) or Sumi (black) patterns. These patterns although seem identical, tell a lot about the quality of the Koi fish.

    Patterns, together with color depth and intensity make up 30% of the total judging score of Champion Koi. Let’s look at some examples from The Daily Koi Channel of the All Japan Young Koi Show in 2021.

    Where’s the highest quality of Kiwa found?

    The big three.

    Yes, Kohaku, Sanke, and Showa possess the highest quality of Kiwa, especially the Kohaku varieties where red patterns are adorned on a white surface to illustrate the Kiwa. Kiwa refers to edge of a pattern element.

    Besides, the uniformity of colors also counts. For example, even hues of Crimson red or persimmon and orangish-red patterns throughout the body. The Champion quality Koi has a very dense red hue on the sharp edges of the pattern. Also, the barrier of red and white should be crystal clear with no blurring.

    Types of Kiwa

    Based on super edgy patterns, Kiwa is divided into two types.

    1. Kamisori Kiwa: Kiwa with razor-like edges, running through individual scales
    2. Maruzome Kiwa: Resembling the outline of a cherry blossom petal, Maruzome Kiwa gives a scalloped appearance to the trailing tip of the red patterns.

    Please note that we always consider the trailing edge of the pattern in judging Kiwa. (i.e., the edge nearest to the tail of Koi fish)

    The Distinctive Colors

    For determining a Champion Koi, Koi experts look for the following color varieties;

    1. Pearly white surface with red (hi) patterns and definite outlines, such as Kohaku
    2. Pure black body base with white and red hues, such as Showa
    3. Peacock like metallic looking, red and orange attractive markings, such as Kujaku

    Hinkaku

    The overall personality matters.

    And this is exactly what the judges assess while choosing a Champion Koi. The general aura of the fish with traits such as vitality, behavior, and overall personality against the norms.

    Sometimes, while judging, the ‘seemingly’ healthy but quiet fish might lose the race against the boisterous, energetic, and lively ones.

    How to Raise A Prized Pet?

    Raising a Champion Koi is not a five-finger exercise, instead, it takes a lot of hard work and patience in raising one.

    Quality Food

    Premium quality Koi food makes all the difference. Not just quality food but with efficient measurements will help your fish grow and develop vivid colors.

    Particularly in summers, when Koi are much hungrier and active, you should increase the frequency of daily feedings. Furthermore, you also notice that Koi will prefer eating food at one time more than the other. So, I recommend scheduling the feedings manually or get an automatic feeder for consistent feedings.

    Premium Pick
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    If you’re looking to raise championship quality Nishikigoi or showing Koi in competitive events, I’d suggest that you give Blue Ridge Platinum Pro a go

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    Also, always measure the water temperature manually. 

    Recommended Feed Measurements based on water temperature

    1. Below 55° F = Feed once a week
    2. Below 61° – 65° F = Feed twice a day
    3. Bello1 65°- 73°F = Feed thrice a day
    4. Over 77°F = feed five times or more per day.

    Floating vs Sinking Food: Which is better?

    Almost all the Koi owners prefer floating food because it makes less mess. However, in recent years, there is a surge of sinking Koi food as the secret to Japanese jumbo-sized Koi is high-quality sinking Koi food.

    Let’s decide on the best type of food based on your preferences.

    Floating Food

    Let’s admit it! Floating food is fun to watch. Also, you can always hand feed your fish and enjoy the graceful sight of your Koi flexing their slender bodies.

    Furthermore, floating food allows you to diagnose health symptoms and carefully examine their odd behaviors. Therefore, I always enjoy giving floating food to my Koi as I get to spend more time with them and catch serious problems before they get worse. But there are cons to everything. Floating food has a lower conversion rate that would cease your Koi’s growth.

    Sinking Food

    Japanese breeders love sinking food as it stimulates growth and has a higher feed efficiency.

    However, you cannot deny the fact that sinking food means lesser interaction with your Koi and the chances of examining or diagnosing health issues are close to none.

    Treats to the Rescue

    High-quality Koi not only rely on the feed but consume occasional natural treats to grow into healthy and happy Champions.

    Therefore, if you’re adamant to hand feed your Koi, you can always choose to offer them yummy treats that would add to their nutritional value, such as orange peels, lettuce. You can also offer a mix of floating and sinking food to enjoy time with your pet and feed them wholesomely.

    The Quality of the food affects Water Quality

    As an avid Koi keeper, you should know that water quality is the number one factor that keeps Koi healthy and striving. Therefore, it’s imperative to feed your Koi premium-quality food that doesn’t pollute your water quite often. Inferior quality feed also increases the chances of pond scum and cloudy water that is a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi.

    Thus, I recommend feeds that do not fall apart quickly with less particulate matter to maintain the water quality and hygiene for your pet.

    Where To Buy Champion Level Fish

    I’ll be honest, it is very difficult to find champion level koi and most folks can’t afford it. I’ll start with 3 tiers of koi dealers, the best most are going to be able to afford, a high-tier, then an all in Champion level experience. Let’s start with the 1st level.

    Level 1 – Next Day

    My Pick!
    Next Day Koi
    Next Day Koi

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    Next Day Koi offers WYSIWYG Koi from the best breeders and farms in the country.

    Shop Now

    Next Day Koi offers WYSIWYG imported Koi from Japan that will satisfy the wonder and awe many Koi enthusiasts are looking for. You can get lower to mid priced Koi here that are beautiful looking delivered straight to your door. My coupon code also will get you an cool 10% off.

    Level 2 – Kloubec

    Kloubec Koi
    Kloubec Koi

    Kloubec Koi is a direct dealer of exotic Koi. The eBay store offers award winning Koi at premium prices

    Click For More Info Shop eBay Store

    Kloubec Koi represents the next level of Koi FIsh for sale. This seller is a great option when looking for high quality Koi fish over $500. The EBay store will often have adult sized Koi that will show well.

    Level 3 – KoiTrips

    A World Class Koi Experience!
    Koi Trips
    Koi Trips

    Check It Off Your Bucket List!

    Visit the top breeders in the world and pick your very know champion level koi. Fly out to Japan for a true VIP experience with Koi Trips!

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    Are you looking for the experience of a lifetime? Do you want to go to Japan and hand pick your very own champion level Koi from the top breeders in the world? If so, Tim Waddington and his team at KoiTrips are ready to take you on a the VIP experience of a lifetime. Come to Japan, pick the best quality koi in the world, and Tim’s team will do the rest to get it to your home in perfect condition!

    Other FAQS

    How much does it cost?

    It depends on a number of factors., the pond quality Koi costs around $50 – $150, depending on the size, color, shape, and variety.

    However, there are some show-quality varieties that would cost more than $10,000.

    Are they expensive?

    Yes, Koi fish are the most prized pet in the world, ranging from $50 to $2.2 million.

    Not only they are expensive but very high-maintenance, i.e., they require scheduled feeding, a clean koi pond, and aquatic plants to thrive.

    How much do they cost?

    Koi fish cost anywhere between $50 to $10,000 and above. Most Koi will fall in the range of $50 – $150

    How much is a 20-year-old worth?

    A healthy 20-year-old Koi would cost around $200 or above, depending on the size and current market value. If you have an adult Koi fish but a healthy one, i.e., it has not developed blemishes, freckles, or spots with a decent body shape. Then congratulations! It is likely worth even more!

    Final Thoughts

    Now, the answer to, how much are koi fish is too much 😅. But at least, now you know why they are madly prized and what it takes to make a champion Koi. Next time you’re thinking to feed your valuable pet inferior quality food, think twice, as it might affect its growth and color vibrancy.

  • How To Care For Your Water Sprite – A Complete Guide

    How To Care For Your Water Sprite – A Complete Guide

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Water sprite floats or plants. Either way, it grows fast enough to be your best nitrate control.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Easy – Beginner Plant

    Water sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) is one of the most versatile and fast-growing aquarium plants. It tolerates a wide range of light, CO2, and nutrient levels, making it an excellent choice for beginner planted tanks.

    Hard Rule

    Water sprite needs adequate light to stay healthy – low-light conditions cause yellowing and melting within weeks. At minimum medium light (20-40 PAR); it grows faster and stays greener with moderate to high light.

    Table of Contents

    Water sprite is one of those plants I always keep on hand for new tank setups. It grows fast, competes with algae, provides cover for fry, and doesn’t demand much in return. I’ve used it floating and planted, and both work well. It’s one of the best plants for anyone cycling a new tank or setting up a breeding setup where you need quick biological filtration assistance and hiding spots.

    If you’ve just brought home a water sprite or are thinking of having one, you may be wondering how to care for it. With the proper knowledge and equipment, caring for your water sprite is simple! There are so many different types of aquarium plants available today that choosing the right one for your aquascape is a bit daunting. Water Sprite is an great option for many aquarists both experienced and new to the hobby.

    If you’re looking for a delicately textured floating, mid-or background plant, Water Sprite is just the plant for you. Read on to learn everything you need to know about growing and caring for the Water Sprite.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Water Sprite

    Most guides call water sprite zero-effort. That’s half right. The half they miss: there’s a real gap between surviving and performing. In low light, water sprite stretches thin, goes pale, and eventually melts. In medium to high light with some baseline nutrition, it’s one of the most productive plants in freshwater: bushy, fast-growing, and constantly pulling nitrates out of the water. The second mistake is burying the crown. Water sprite grows from a short rhizome. If the crown goes below the substrate surface, the plant rots from the base up within weeks. Keep the crown just above the substrate, or skip the whole problem and let it float. Water sprite performs just as well as a floating plant, and many experienced aquarists actually prefer it that way. In my 25+ years recommending plants to customers and setting up tanks, water sprite is the single most useful plant for new setups. Its fast growth rate makes it a genuine supplement to biological filtration during the first weeks of cycling, absorbing ammonia and nitrites while the beneficial bacteria establish.

    Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

    I keep water sprite on hand specifically for new tank setups and breeding tanks. As a floating plant during the nitrogen cycle, it absorbs ammonia and nitrites faster than most people realize. In a breeding setup, the hanging root system provides exactly the cover betta fry and corydoras eggs need. It’s not the most glamorous plant in the hobby, but it might be the most useful.

    A Brief Overview Of The Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

    These fast-growing aquatic plants are adaptable to a wide range of water parameters and are so versatile that they are grown in many different ways in your aquascape. Water Sprite is a great plant for freshwater aquascapes and is safe to grow with most fish and shrimps.

    Scientific Name Ceratopteris thalictroides
    Common Names Water Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern, Water Hornfern
    Family Pteridaceae
    Origin Tropical regions, including Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Moderate 30-80 PAR (umols)
    Tank Placement Midground, Background, Floating
    Flow Rate Low
    Temperature Range 72-82°F
    Height 5.0 – 8.4
    Growth Rate Fast
    Feed Type Column and Root Feeder
    Co2 Requirement No

    Classification

    Division Polypodiophyta
    Class Polypodiopsida
    Order Salviniales
    Family Pteridaceae
    Genus Ceratopteris
    Species C. Thalictroides (Linnaeus) Brongniart

    Origins And Habitat

    The Water Sprite plant is a beautiful aquatic plant that is found growing in and around freshwater bodies in tropical regions across the globe. Water Sprite plants occur in Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America.

    Ceratopteris thalictroides is an adaptable species that grows naturally in a wide range of different habitats. It is found in fresh or stagnant, standing water, marsh habitats, or gently flowing streams and grow emersed or submersed in sunny or partially shaded positions.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Water Sprite in Aquarium

    Water Sprite is a beautiful green species for aquascapes that looks a lot in appearance like terrestrial ferns do. This fern takes different forms depending on how it is grown in the fish tank and what kind of lighting it gets. Ceratopteris thalictroides grow from a short rhizome and their foliage varies from vibrant light to deep dark green.

    Plants that are allowed to float in the fish tank will take on a more spreading, flattened appearance. This floating plant also developed a large interesting white, hanging root system. 

    Indian Fern plants that are grown rooted in the substrate have broad, pale leaves arranged in a rosette from a single stem. Interestingly, these plants have two different types of fine leaves. Both smaller sterile leaves and larger fertile leaves is found on the same plant. 

    In very shallow aquariums, rooted Water Sprite plants will happily grow up and out of the tank water if left to grow to their full size of about 15 inches tall.

    Placement And Lighting

    Water sprite is a really versatile and useful species that is used in a number of different ways in the aquascape. In the planted aquarium, the fine leaves work well to soften and break up harsh lines.

    Depending on the size of your aquarium, this plant could make a great midground or background plant. In smaller aquariums, these water ferns grow tall enough as rooted specimens to create a beautiful, finely textured backdrop to your aquascape. 

    In larger aquariums, Water Sprite makes a great mid-ground plant that is rooted or attached to a hardscape feature like rocks or driftwood. When grown this way with good light, Water Sprites is very effective at hiding the base of taller stem plants in the background. 

    Another popular option is to allow this plant to float at the water’s surface. Bear in mind of course that floating Water Sprite plants will shade out the plants rooted below it, so be sure to grow only low light species under your floating plant. 

    Wherever you plant your Water Sprite, make sure it has access to at least moderate plant light to ensure vibrant color and a healthy growth rate. Rooted plants will need stronger light than floated plants because they are further from the light source.

    What Are Good Tank Mates (Fish)?

    Good Tank Mates

    <a href=Neon tetra” class=”wp-image-40509″/>

    The Water Sprite plant is great for community tanks and will work well with most fish and invertebrate species. Nano fish species, fry, and freshwater shrimp will appreciate the safety and shelter provided by the dense foliage of this plant.

    Water Sprite works equally well in species-only aquariums, as long as the freshwater fish you keep isn’t herbivore or prone to digging through the substrate.

    Floating Water Sprite plants can develop really cool root systems that trap food particles and detritus in the water column, making a great place for shrimps and small fish to forage.  

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Avoid keeping plant-eating freshwater fish like goldfish, Buenos Aires Tetras, and some cichlids with Water Sprite as they will feed on this plant.

    Feeding and Fertilization

    Water Sprite grows fast and vigorously and does not require much feeding if rooted in a nutrient rich plant substrate. Water Sprite plants also take nutrients from the water column and are great at soaking up excess nutrients from fish food and waste. This property makes water sprite a really helpful plant for maintaining stable water parameters and preventing algae blooms.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Since Water Sprite does not necessarily need to be on a strict feeding schedule, the timing and amount of fertilizer you use will probably be more dependent on the needs of other species you are keeping in your planted tank.

    It is best to feed your plants regularly to maintain stable water parameters. Of course, it is difficult to know exactly what your plant’s nutrient requirements are without measuring so it is best to test regularly.

    The best way to determine the right feeding schedule for your plants is with caution and through a process of trial and testing. Feed your plants daily or every second day and dial the amount of aquarium fertilizer in to where water parameters stay as stable as possible.

    Fast Growing

    Being a fast-growing plant, Water Sprite will need to be pruned from time to time. This is especially true under strong light and when they are taking a lot of nutrients from the water. Below is a quick video from Tropica that provides a handling and growth care video on the plant.

    Use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors to remove minor stems, rather than trimming individual leaves, because any damaged leaves or stems left attached to the plant could turn brown and rot. Be careful never to pull on a rooted Water Sprite plant or damage its primary stem as this could hurt the whole plant.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Water Sprite grows well across a wide range of tank parameters. Water temperatures between 72°F and 84°F are ideal and this plant will do fine in both hard and soft water. KH values of 3-8 are ideal for this plant.

    They also grow well in pretty much any pH value that you’re likely to find in an aquarium. That being said, it has been noted that water Sprite grows best in slightly acidic to neutral water.

    Maintaining parameters

    To maintain stable water parameters in your planted fish tank, be sure to set your lighting on a timer to provide a regular and consistent light schedule. Always stock your tank appropriately and be careful not to overfeed your fish and animals.

    Use a heater to maintain a stable water temperature and a filter that provides effective mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. From time to time, you will need to rinse out your filtration media or replace the cartridges in your filter.

    When rinsing out your filter media, be sure to use water that you have collected from your tank during a water change. By doing this you will avoid killing the beneficial bacteria that colonize your filter with the harsh chemicals found in most tap water.

    Water Quality

    Good water quality and tank conditions are the cornerstone of all thriving planted aquariums, and by far the most important piece of equipment for maintaining the water quality in your planted fish tank is your filter.

    Filtration

    As good as Water Sprite is at absorbing excess nutrients in the water, you’ll still want good filtration in your aquarium to maintain a healthy system. These plants have fine, delicate leaves that do break apart from time to time. For this reason, it’s a good idea to use a filter with a prefilter sponge on its intake to prevent plant material from being sucked in.

    Flow

    Water Sprite is not adapted to life in fast-flowing water. Use a slow to moderate water flow in your aquarium to maintain healthy plants. In aquariums with higher flow rates, position these plants away from the outflow of the filter, or grow them behind a hardscape feature that blocks out the current. 

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Tank Conditions

    Before introducing a new plant to your fish tank, be sure to test the conditions of the water. This way you will know if the parameters in your planted tank are suitable for the species you want to grow. You will need an aquarium test kit to do this at home. 

    The most important water conditions for you to keep an eye on are the levels of Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, pH, general hardness, and carbonate hardness in the water. It’s a good idea to get into a routine of testing your tank water conditions every week before you perform a water change.

    Set Up Your Aquarium

    Water Sprite is a very versatile aquatic plant and will easily adapt to most setups. If you plan on growing this as a rooted plant, provide at least 2 inches of substrate to allow your plant to develop a strong root system.

    Rooted Water Sprites do not have any particular substrate requirements and is grown in sand or gravel. In the right conditions, Water Sprite has a pretty fast growth rate in the planted tank.

    This reason, coupled with the species potential height of about 15 inches, means you should grow this species in tanks of at least 10 gallons. In smaller tanks, Water Sprite can quickly take over your aquascape.

    Propagate

    Water Sprite is a very easy plant to propagate. Healthy, mature plants will form miniature daughter plantlets on the edges of their leaves. In time, the little Water Sprite plantlet will break free and will grow as a floating plant or attach itself to the substrate in your aquarium. 

    These little plantlets can be pulled from the leaves and planted in the gravel or sand once they have established their own root system. You can also attach these young plants to a hardscape feature like driftwood or rock using nylon or even super glue. The video above by gmluv illustrates the daughter leaves.

    Another easy way to propagate new Water Sprite plants is to simply cut off a secondary stem from the mother plant that has healthy leaves on it. Allow this cutting to float freely in the tank and it will often develop its own healthy root system pretty quickly.

    Health And Disease

    Water Sprite is a fast-growing, vigorous species that has few problems in the planted tank. There are always things that can go wrong, however, especially in smaller freshwater tanks. The successful aquarist is always alert to possible problems by keeping a close lookout for changes in their plants.

    Signs Of Health

    Healthy Water Sprite plants will have vibrant green foliage and stems and a well-developed root system. Plants grown in pots should be able to grow and support themselves without bending over under their own weight.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Different mineral deficiencies affect how these plants grow and often show up as characteristic discoloration and damage to the leaves of the Water Sprite. Look out for yellowing or browning of the green leaves. The appearance of rotting leaves and roots are also clues that signal poor health in this plant

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    The most important needs for all aquarium plants are light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. If you have too much, or not enough of any of these things, you could start to pick up problems with your plants. Fortunately, Water Sprite is a hardy plant that isn’t too picky about aquarium parameters. 

    Nevertheless, there are a few important points to remember about caring for your plants. A common problem when growing these plants in the substrate is not providing enough light and planting the roots too deeply. The crown of the plant should always be above the level of the substrate. 

    Another common problem with aquarium plants is an excess of nutrients like phosphates in the water. This can cause a build-up of algae in the tank and on your plants. To prevent this, make sure not to overfeed your fish and get into the habit of doing partial water changes on a weekly basis.

    Plant Pests

    Plant eating snails can really take their toll on this plant. If you do keep snails, be sure to keep them well-fed for your best chance at protecting your plant. Snails and other pests are often introduced to your aquarium accidentally on new plants. 

    The best way to prevent this is to give new plants a good wash and a dip before introducing them to your aquascape. Start by removing any dead or unhealthy-looking leaves from the plant with a sharp pair of scissors. Inspect the plant for any snails and remove them. 

    Dipping your Water Sprite plants briefly in a very mild solution of bleach (20 parts water to 1 part bleach) is a great way of killing off parasites and unwanted organisms before introducing them to your aquarium. Plants should be dipped for a period of not more than 2 minutes and then washed and rinsed thoroughly before planting out.

    Where To Buy

    These plants can often be found at local aquarium stores or bought from an online fish store. Personally, my recommendation is to purchase from Buceplant if purchasing online. They also still Tropica tissue grown aquarium plants, which is a great way to prevent introducing pests into your aquarium.


    Water Sprite


    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light


    Click For Best Price


    Buy On Amazon

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is This low light?

    Water Sprite has moderate light requirements. Although Water Sprites will survive in low-light tanks, they will grow much better in medium light conditions. In low light, these plants will grow a bit tall and thin, unlike the dense, compact, and deep green plants you get under good light.

    Where Can I get Them?

    Water Sprite is a common aquarium plant that you can pick up at many pet stores. A great place to order your plants online is from BucePlant.com. 

    Do They Need CO2?

    You can easily grow Water Sprites in low-tech setups but they will grow faster and look better if given good light and Co2. Plant growth is accelerated with Co2, but plant thrives without Co2 injection.

    Are they a good floating plant?

    Yes, Water Sprite is a great floating plant that develops an interesting root system. These plants will do better if allowed to float in lower light setups. 

    Is Water Sprite Right for You?

    Here’s an honest breakdown of when water sprite is the right plant for your tank and when it isn’t. It’s one of the most useful plants in the hobby, but not for every situation.

    Good fit if:

    • Your lighting hits at least 30 PAR at plant level. Water sprite will survive lower, but it won’t stay compact and green. It stretches thin and eventually melts.
    • You want a plant that works in multiple roles: background plant, floating cover, fry shelter, nitrate absorber. Water sprite does all of these without specialized care.
    • You’re cycling a new tank. Water sprite absorbs ammonia and nitrites aggressively during the cycle, and it’s one of the best things you can add to a new setup before your fish go in.
    • You keep breeding fish. The floating root system provides ideal spawning cover and shelter for fry. It’s especially good for livebearers, bettas, and corydoras setups.
    • You’re willing to trim every couple of weeks under good light. Fast growth is the trade-off for everything else this plant does.

    Avoid if:

    • You keep goldfish, Buenos Aires tetras, or plant-eating cichlids. They will eat it. This isn’t a maybe. These fish destroy water sprite consistently.
    • Your flow rate is high. Water sprite has delicate, finely divided leaves that tear apart in strong currents. It needs calm to moderate flow or positioning behind hardscape.
    • You want a set-and-forget plant. Water sprite needs pruning. Under good light, it grows fast enough to shade out everything below it if left unchecked for more than a few weeks.
    • Your tank is under 10 gallons. Water sprite can grow to 15 inches (38 cm) and spreads aggressively. It will overwhelm a nano setup without constant pruning.

    How Water Sprite Compares to Similar Species

    Want fast growth and floating capability? Water sprite. Want slow architectural growth on hardscape? Java fern. Want cold-water or goldfish tank coverage? Hornwort.

    Water Sprite vs. Java Fern: Both are beginner-friendly and low-maintenance, but they serve different roles. Java fern attaches to rocks and driftwood (it can’t be buried in substrate) and grows slowly with a distinctive, architectural shape. Water sprite grows in substrate or floats freely and grows 3 to 5 times faster. Choose java fern if you want a structural focal plant that stays manageable without frequent trimming. Choose water sprite if you need fast growth for nitrate control, fry cover, or cycling a new tank.

    Water Sprite vs. Hornwort: Both are fast-growing, nitrate-absorbing plants that work floating or planted. The difference is temperature tolerance. Hornwort handles cold water and lower light, making it the better choice for goldfish tanks and unheated setups. Water sprite needs tropical temperatures (72–84°F) and at least moderate light. In a standard tropical planted community tank, water sprite has softer, finer leaves and is better-looking as a planted midground or background plant. Choose hornwort for cold-water setups or the lowest-effort floating plant possible. Choose water sprite for tropical community tanks where appearance matters alongside function.

    Water Sprite vs. Water Wisteria (Hygrophila difformis): These two are frequently confused. They have similar leaf shapes and similar growth rates. Water wisteria is slightly more demanding on light and nutrients and does not float well. Water sprite is more versatile: it performs equally as a rooted plant or a floater, which is a meaningful advantage for breeding setups and cycling tanks. Choose water wisteria if you’re planting primarily in substrate and want slightly more structure. Choose water sprite if you want the floating option or the fastest possible nitrate control.

    References

    • Tropica Aquarium Plants. (2024). Ceratopteris thalictroides: care profile and growth data. tropica.com
    • Plants of the World Online / Kew Botanic Gardens. (2024). Ceratopteris thalictroides (L.) Brongn. powo.science.kew.org
    • Seriously Fish. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides): aquatic plant profile. seriouslyfish.com
    • Aquarium Wiki. Water Sprite care guide. theaquariumwiki.com
    • BucePlant. Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides) availability and care notes. buceplant.com

    Closing Thoughts

    Water sprite is the workhorse plant of freshwater tanks. It grows fast enough to outcompete algae, provides dense cover for fry and shy fish, and adapts to both floating and planted setups. The main task is staying ahead of it – trim weekly or it takes over the surface and blocks light. That’s a good problem to have.

  • Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Hard Rule

    Keep cherry barbs in groups of 8 or more with at least 2 females per male. Small groups produce stressed, washed-out males – proper numbers bring out the deep cherry-red coloration males are known for.

    Table of Contents

    The cherry barb is the anti-tiger barb. It is peaceful to a fault, will not nip fins, will not chase tank mates, and will not defend itself when something bigger pushes it around. That makes it one of the best community fish in the hobby, but it also means you have to protect it. Put cherry barbs with anything aggressive and they will hide, fade, and stop eating.

    In the right tank, with dark substrate, live plants, and a group of at least six, male cherry barbs develop a deep crimson color that rivals anything in the tropical fish world. Skip those conditions and you get a washed-out pink fish that never shows you what it is capable of. This guide covers what it takes to bring out their best, because the cherry barb does not demand attention. It earns it quietly, and only when the conditions are right.

    The cherry barb is proof that a barb does not have to be a bully. But being peaceful has consequences. Your job is to make sure those consequences never catch up to it.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Cherry Barbs

    The most common mistake: keeping too few. “Minimum 6” is not enough. You need 8 to 10 or more to see these fish actually school and the males fully color up. Second mistake: bright tanks with light substrate. Cherry barbs under white LEDs on light gravel look washed-out and pink. Add tannins, use dark sand or soil, and lower the light intensity, and you’ll see a deep cherry-red you didn’t know they had. Third mistake: wrong male-to-female ratio. Keep at least two females per male. Males will relentlessly chase a single female without that balance, and nobody eats or rests properly. In my 25+ years in the hobby, the hobbyists who are most disappointed with cherry barbs always kept them in small groups under bright lights with a bare setup. Get those three things right and these fish take care of themselves.

    Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)

    A male cherry barb in peak condition (deep crimson, dark substrate, proper group size) is one of the most underrated showpieces in freshwater. Most people never see it because they never build the tank to support it. The fish doesn’t demand anything special. It just needs you to get the basics right.

    A Brief Overview Of The Cherry Barb

    The Cherry Barb is scientifically called Puntius titteya , they are one of the friendlier barbs you can purchase in the aquarium hobby and are ideal for a community tank. They are also great barb fish for planted tanks as the male’s reds contrast well with many green plants.

    Scientific Name Puntius titteya
    Common Name (Species) Cherry Barb
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin Sri Lanka
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Active, social
    Size Up to 2 inches
    Lifespan 4 years (up to 7)
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level All Areas
    Minimum Tank Size 25 Gallons
    Temperature Range 73–81 Degrees F
    KH 4 – 7
    pH Range 7.2–7.5
    Filtration/Flow Rate Calm to Moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg-layers, easy to breed
    Compatibility Peace community species
    Ok For Planted Tanks? Yes

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 1 – Beginner

    Cherry barbs are one of the most peaceful and adaptable barb species. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters, do not nip fins, and are suitable for planted community tanks from 20 gallons. An ideal beginner fish.

    Classification

    Kingdom Animalia
    Phylum Chordata
    Class Actinopterygii
    Order Cypriniformes
    Family Cyprinidae
    Genus Puntius
    Species P. Titteya (Deraniyagala, 1929)

    Origins and Habitat

    The Cherry Barb originates from Sri Lanka from the Cyprinidae family. The fish live in freshwater ponds and slow-moving water sources across Sri Lanka. These freshwater fish have also been found in Columbia and Mexico, where they have adapted well to their surroundings.

    The fish thrive in tropical rainforest conditions where the temperature rarely changes.

    Even though the Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is thriving in the aquarium scene, the fish is now vulnerable in its natural environment. This is due to its popularity with aquarium owners and the disappearing waters in their shrinking natural habitat. Fortunately, these fish are now tank bred and easy to find in fish stores.

    What Do Cherry Barbs Look Like?

    Cherry Barbs are long, thin, brightly colored fish. As the name suggests, they are bright red, with the male species generally being more vibrant than the females, which are more of a tan color. The females also look fatter than the males.

    Cherry Barb Care Infographic

    All Cherry Barbs have a dark line that runs along the whole of their body. This is a solid brown line, but due to their scales, it can look dotted.

    Their fins are quite small and can look translucent. The dorsal fin is shaped like a half shell and is halfway down its back. When they swim, this fin lies flattened so that they look like little torpedoes gliding through the water.

    How Big Are They?

    A Cherry Barb can grow up to 2 inches in length. Male Cherry Barbs are slightly smaller than the females. The size of your fish can depend on the care given and may only grow to one inch in length. 

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Cherry Barb generally lives for between three and five years. However, with lots of looking after and Cherry Barb care, the fish can live up to seven years. 

    Some owners have reported Cherry Barbs living up to eight years. This is possible with the right care and attention and includes the correct habitat, water parameters, and tank mates.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    These fish are peaceful and like nothing better than swimming around all day in their group. You should buy Cherry Barb fish together due to their schooling nature; they like to swim around in groups. This gives them the feeling of safety and security when swimming together.

    They are active fish and enjoy swimming quite fast. They are also curious fish who like searching things out. They may spot something that they want to explore and leave the group for a second but will always return.

    The only time that you will see any signs of aggression from the Cherry Barbs will be while mating. Males will then dominate the female and other males.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Cherry Barb Tank Mates

    Due to their peaceful nature and social temperament, Cherry Barb tank mates can be many other fish species. They prefer to school in a group of other Cherry Barb fish, so keep this in mind when getting other fish.

    Good Tank Mates

    The best Cherry Barb tank mates for these fish would be other peaceful smaller fish species that share the same nature as your Cherry Barbs. They also enjoy sharing the tank with larger bottom dwellers. 

    Some of the best fish species for tank mates would be:

    They are also suited to shrimp and other invertebrates, such as Ghost Shrimp, Cherry Shrimp, or Mystery Snails

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Cherry Barbs is shy around other fish species, so it’s better to avoid larger or more aggressive fish species. Any fish that can fit the barb in its mouth should be avoided. Other more aggressive barbs like Tiger Barbs should be avoided.

    What Do They Eat?

    Cherry Barbs will eat anything that you give them. These fish are omnivores and enjoy a diet of both plant-based and live foods. High-quality flake, freeze dried, and frozen foods can provide the required nutrients, along with some protein-rich food such as brine shrimp, black worms, or bloodworms to supplement their daily diet.

    What About Live Foods?

    The fish enjoy live foods, and these should be given to them regularly. A Cherry Barb will eat most things but prefers a diet including brine shrimp and bloodworm.

    How Much and How Often To Feed?

    You should aim to start feeding the fish twice per day. If they don’t eat everything they are given straight away, give them less on the next feed. Be careful not to overfeed your Cherry Barb fish, as this can lead to all kinds of health problems. 

    Tank Requirements

    You should make sure that you have the right sized tank and environment for your Cherry Barb fish. They are easy to look after as long as they have the right conditions and habitat.

    Tank Size

    As Cherry Barbs are schooling fish, you should allow for around six fish initially. The minimum tank size should be between 25–30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    The natural habitat for these fish is shallow water with lots of live plants, so you should try to re-create this where possible. They are naturally a timid fish, and will not be as social without the comfort of plants. You should try to have some plants on the surface of the tank to help them to feel at home. Some of the best plants to choose from are water wisteria, hornwort, and anacharis.

    Dark sand or fine gravel is an excellent substrate for your Cherry Barb. This offers a similar environment to their natural habitat of a dark, silty base. This, along with a well-planted tank, will give them the right environment. In an aquascaped environment, active aquarium soil is a consideration for rooted and carpeting plants.

    The dark substrate will also add to the aesthetics of your fish tank with the black substrate against the bright red of the fish. It’s a color explosion!

    Water Quality

    These freshwater fish are a pretty hardy fish and can tolerate a range of water changes and conditions. However, you should ensure that the water quality is suitable for the fish to avoid any illness.

    Filtration

    A standard hang-on back filter should be suitable for your Cherry Barb care, which will keep the water clean at all times. The filter should have a gentle flow as the fish are used to slow-moving water and will not do well in fast currents. For a planted tank, a canister filter is a good consideration to provide added mechanical filtration and flow.

    Water Parameters

    The ideal water parameters for your Cherry Barb freshwater fish would be:

    • Water temperature: 73°F–81°F
    • pH level: 7.2–7.5
    • Water hardness: 5–19 dH

    Aquarium Maintenance

    To give your Cherry Barbs a healthy fish life, you must ensure that your aquarium is maintained to a high standard. The water should be kept clean, and parameters met at all times to give the best Cherry Barb care. The tank should also be cleaned regularly.

    Test Water Conditions

    Your tank water should be tested regularly to make sure that the parameters are met. By investing in high-quality water test kits, this will give you the accurate result that you need for your Cherry Barb fish.

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    The water should be tested for the following elements:

    • pH: This is the power of hydrogen level that tells you how acidic or alkaline the water is. 
    • Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fish’s waste and is toxic for your fish.
    • Nitrite: Ammonia is broken down to make nitrite which is also toxic.
    • Nitrate: You should not have more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Once you have bought everything you need, you will need to set up your Cherry Barb tank.

    How To Set Up a Fish Tank

    The first thing to do when setting up your fish tank is to make sure that everything is clean. You shouldn’t use any soap or disinfectant to clean as this may harm your fish; rinsing under water is sufficient.

    The substrate should then be added to the tank, a couple of inches is plenty. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrate. This will make the process of adding water easier.  The filter and heater should then be added but not switched on just yet.

    Dechlorinated tap water can then be added to the tank. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate isn’t displaced all over the tank. To make the water fish-friendly, you need to start the nitrogen cycle. A little liquid ammonia should be added to the water to start the cycle.

    Your decorations and live plants can then be added, making sure that these have been rinsed through. Live plants can be planted in pots or directly into the substrate, and all damaged leaves should be removed.

    The filter system and heater should then be switched on and kept on all day and all night. Your live plants need light to survive, so your lighting should be switched on also. 


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    The tank is then ready, but you shouldn’t add your fish just yet. The tank should be left to establish itself without fish for at least 10 days. The water parameters should then be tested to make sure that they are appropriate. All water parameters should be correct before adding any fish, or they won’t survive in the tank.

    Once you have reached the correct parameters in your fish tank, you can then add your fish. 

    Health and Disease

    The Cherry Barb is quite a hardy fish species; however, they can still be susceptible to ill health.

    Signs of Health

    Prevention is far better than curing illness, and you should make sure that your fish are looked after. This will help to avoid many illnesses that can affect the fish. 

    A healthy Cherry Barb is colorful and should be actively swimming around the tank with its group.

    Signs of Ill Health

    The first sign of ill health in a Cherry Barb would be changes in the behavior of your fish. If you notice anything different, check your fish out. Some of the changes in behavior is: lethargy, not eating, or rubbing their body on the tank. They could also be suffering from ripped fins, which is a sign that there is something wrong.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    The most common disease in your fish would be Ich. This is also known as white spot disease, and the water should be treated with an Ich medication to get rid of this. 

    They can also suffer from other conditions, such as velvet disease, fin rot, and dropsy. These conditions are all curable as long as they are correctly treated in time. Your fish need to be quarantined while being treated. Check out my freshwater fish disease article for identification and treatment of the most common diseases in our hobby.

    Breeding

    Cherry Barbs are easy fish to breed and will spawn often. The breeding process is simple compared to other fish species. The time-consuming work is in the preparation. You will need to set up a breeding tank with a similar habitat to their permanent tank.

    You will need two tanks or will need to separate a tank into two areas, one for the breeding pair and one for the eggs. Cherry Barbs will eat the eggs once spawned if they are not separated. The breeding tank will need to be well planted as they like to hide and protect their eggs in the plants. 

    Once ready to spawn, the males will become more aggressive and start to chase the female. He will also become brighter in color, as will she. The female can lay between 200 and 300 eggs, and these will be scattered over the plants and substrate. You need to quickly remove these once spawned and put them in a separate tank.

    Be careful not to add your female fish back into the permanent tank as soon as she has spawned her eggs. She will be tired and needs to regain her strength before being put back in with the male fish.

    The fry will hatch over the next few days and should be fed on foods such as vinegar eels or micro worms. After a further couple of days, they will begin to swim around. As they get bigger, they can start to be fed on larger live foods like brine shrimp.

    The fry will reach adulthood at around two months old, and at this point, they can be added to the permanent tank with other fish.

    Are Your Cherry Barbs Male or Female?

    There are a few ways that you can tell if your Cherry Barbs are male or female. The first one would be their color. The males are a brighter cherry red color, where the females are paler in color and can be tan or almost white.

    Male Cherry Barb
    Male
    Female Cherry Barb
    Female

    The lateral line that is found along the whole of their body from the head to the tail is different. This is a darker brown color in the female Cherry Barb than the male. The last difference would be the shape of the fish. The female Cherry Barb is slightly rounder in shape in the stomach area than the male; the male fish is slimmer.

    Availability

    You can buy both male Cherry Barbs and female Cherry Barbs from most pet stores as well as online fish stores. Make sure that you purchase your fish from a reputable supplier and that they are healthy fish. You don’t want to buy fish that aren’t looked after and could spread diseases to your other fish.

    What You Need to Buy

    You need to start with the right tank with lighting and a filter system. They are a tropical fish, so you should invest in a heater for the tank. You should then get the substrate, plants, decorations, quality fish food, and maintenance equipment. 

    To clean the tank correctly, you should invest in an algae magnet and an aquarium vacuum. You also need to make sure that you have plenty of water testing kits to ensure that your water is at optimal parameters.

    Don’t forget your fish!

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Cherry Barbs are one of the least aggressive barb types you can purchase in the freshwater aquarium trade. They will happily school, are active, and great along with most fish. I would consider them the most well mannered barb you can buy.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    These barbs are schooling fish and are best keep in groups. You should keep at least 8 cherry barbs together in an aquarium. Keeping fewer than 6 will result in stress, hiding, and males that never fully color up. Proper group size is where the fish becomes the showpiece it is capable of being.

    Do They Need Heaters?

    A cherry barb will not need an fish tank heater if your room temperature is stable. They will do fine when room temperatures range from 68-72 degrees. If your room stays at this range, you should not need a heater. If you live in a cold climate, I strongly recommend one when it gets colder.

    Is the Cherry Barb Right for You?

    Here’s an honest breakdown of who this fish is right for and who it isn’t. The cherry barb is forgiving on water chemistry but unforgiving about environment and tank mates.

    Good fit if:

    • You’re building a planted community tank and want a barb that won’t nip fins, harass tank mates, or eat your shrimp. Cherry barbs are completely safe with invertebrates.
    • You’re willing to use dark substrate and moderate lighting. That’s where the deep crimson male coloring appears. Without it, the fish looks average.
    • You want a barb with schooling behavior but a peaceful personality. Tiger barbs are the aggressive version. Cherry barbs are the community version.
    • You’re a beginner who wants a forgiving, hardy fish that rewards a well-designed tank with impressive color.
    • You want a fish that will breed in the tank without much intervention. Cherry barbs spawn readily and fry are easy to raise.

    Avoid if:

    • You keep tiger barbs, serpae tetras, or any confirmed fin nippers. Cherry barbs will get shredded and spend most of their time hiding.
    • You have large cichlids or anything big enough to eat a 2-inch fish. Cherry barbs cannot defend themselves and will be perpetually stressed or eaten.
    • You expect the deep red coloring without doing the setup work. Bright tanks with light substrate produce pink, unimpressive fish. The color is conditional.
    • You want a fish that can hold its own when bullied. Cherry barbs cannot. They will hide, fade, and stop eating. That’s who they are, and it’s your job to protect them.
    • You plan to keep a group under 8. Anything smaller produces a stressed school that never shows the behavior or coloring this species is capable of.

    How the Cherry Barb Compares to Similar Species

    Want a peaceful community barb? Cherry barb. Want an active school in a species-appropriate setup? Tiger barb. Want the smallest possible planted tank showpiece? Ember tetra.

    Cherry Barb vs. Tiger Barb: Same family, completely different personality. Tiger barbs are active, bold schoolers and confirmed fin nippers that will shred guppies, bettas, and angelfish. Cherry barbs are the opposite: totally peaceful, safe with long-finned fish and shrimp, and won’t defend themselves when pushed around. Choose tiger barb if you want an energetic school in a tank built around barbs specifically. Choose cherry barb if you want that barb energy in a mixed community without the aggression risk. Don’t keep them together.

    Cherry Barb vs. Ember Tetra: Both are small, peaceful, and excellent for planted tanks. The key difference is color at peak condition. A male cherry barb in a proper setup (dark substrate, tannins, correct group size) has a deeper, richer red than anything an ember tetra produces. Ember tetras have a warm orange-red that works beautifully in nano setups and is less dependent on getting every condition right. Choose ember tetra if your tank is under 15 gallons or you want consistent color without optimizing the setup. Choose cherry barb if you’re building a planted 25–30 gallon community and want that crimson color payoff when everything is dialed in.

    Cherry Barb vs. Harlequin Rasbora: Similar peaceful temperament, similar community tank suitability, similar size. The difference is behavior and coloring style. Harlequin rasboras school tightly and have a clean orange-red with a distinctive black wedge marking, striking at any angle. Cherry barb males have a deeper, more saturated red when conditioned, but it’s conditional on the tank setup. Choose harlequin rasbora if you want reliable, consistent schooling color without setup optimization. Choose cherry barb if you want the color payoff from doing the tank right.

    References

    • Froese, R. & Pauly, D. (Eds.). (2024). Puntius titteya (Deraniyagala, 1929). FishBase. www.fishbase.org: current accepted taxonomy and distribution data.
    • IUCN Red List. (2024). Puntius titteya. Vulnerable. iucnredlist.org (trade pressure and habitat loss in Sri Lanka)
    • Seriously Fish. Cherry Barb (Puntius titteya) care profile, water parameters, and habitat data. seriouslyfish.com
    • Aquarium Wiki. Cherry Barb. theaquariumwiki.com
    • Flip Aquatics. Cherry Barb availability and care notes. flipaquatics.com

    The Reality of Keeping Cherry Barbs

    Cherry barbs are peaceful, hardy, and almost foolproof in the right setup. But “almost foolproof” requires one non-negotiable: the right group composition. A single male cherry barb or a group of all males becomes a problem of relentless chasing. One male to two or three females is the ratio that produces a calm, colorful tank rather than a harassment scenario.

    The male’s red color deepens when other males are present and when the tank conditions are right – planted, well-lit, stable temperature. The cherry red of a well-kept male in breeding condition is genuinely impressive. Getting there requires time and the correct ratio, not just buying the fish.

    They are active, mid-swimming fish that use the full tank. They are not flashy in the way that tetras school, but a group of 8 cherry barbs in a planted tank is lively, colorful, and constantly in motion. Low-maintenance does not mean low-reward.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Cherry Barb in bad conditions and the Cherry Barb in perfect conditions look like two completely different species.

    The Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is a popular freshwater fish that is easy to care for and will give you hours of relaxing enjoyment. There’s nothing better than watching your fish swimming together around the tank. 

    We hope you enjoyed our fish guide, and it gives you the information you need to start your aquarium of colorful Cherry Barbs.

    This guide is part of our Barbs: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular barb species.

    This article is part of our Barb Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

    Check out this video covering barb species for your aquarium:

  • Pond vs Lake: What’s the Real Difference? (A Hobbyist’s Take)

    Pond vs Lake: What’s the Real Difference? (A Hobbyist’s Take)

    This question comes up more than you’d think among pond keepers, and the honest answer might surprise you: scientifically, there’s no universally agreed-upon definition that separates a pond from a lake. I’ve visited water features ranging from small backyard garden ponds to sprawling natural lakes, and the line between them is genuinely fuzzy. What actually matters for fish keeping. depth, surface area, water temperature stability. is far more practical than whatever label you put on it. Here’s what the science actually says and how it applies to the hobby.

    Honestly and scientifically, there’s no apparent difference between a lake and a pond. A pond is a small lake, and a lake is a large pond. 

    However, some limnologists have categorized ponds and lakes on the basis of surface area and depth, while others have completely denied these traditional hypotheses.

    Therefore, the pond vs. lake debate has been around since the 1700s. But still, it’s an enigma.

    What is a Pond?

    Ponds are small depressions of shallow water that are surrounded by land. Ponds are freshwater bodies that cannot be larger than twenty acres. Any water bodies that are larger than 20 acres will be considered lakes.

    Ponds are further categorized into two types,

    Permanent ponds

    Permanent ponds are all year long. They hold water all year round and provide habitants for a variety of wildlife. If you built a koi pond, this would be an example of a permanent man made pond. You keep it permanent by keeping it running year round. Naturally, it would likely dry out – would would classify it into the other type of pond.

    Ephemeral Ponds or Temporary Ponds

    These ponds usually form when rain and snowmelt and fill the depression in the ground. The temporary ponds develop during spring and dry up in summers. Hence, a breeding ground for frogs and other amphibians.

    There are many ponds that are man-made and constructed for commercial or home use. However, natural ponds form near a swamp, surrounded by land.

    Whatever the case may be, ponds have a sensitive ecosystem that is adversely affected by human actions, such as dam constructor, pollution, habitat reduction, and addition of non-native plants and animals to the pond ecosystem.

    What is a Lake?

    Lake is an inland body of freshwater found in mountains, deserts, near seashores, and in almost every climate or environment.

    The size and other dimensions of the lake vary in size, ranging from a few square meters to bigger ones called seas.

    Did you know?

    The Caspian Sea is the world’s largest lake, covering an area of more than 370,000 square kilometers (143,000 square miles).

    Not only in size, but lakes differ in their deepest point as well. From the world’s deepest, Lake Baikal, and the shallow lakes that could allow a person to wade across them, lakes vary in depth greatly.

    Did you know?

    Lake Titicaca is one of the deepest lakes that is around 3,810 meters (12,500 ft) above sea level. However, the Dead Sea remains the lowest lake, about more than 395 meters (1,300 ft) below sea level. 

    Lakes can be open or closed. However, it has been observed that all freshwater lakes are open, allowing the water to leave by a river or other outlet. Closed lakes are proven to be salty, due to the presence of salts and other solids by the process of evaporation.

    Like ponds, lakes can either be natural or man-made. 

    The Importance of Water to Wildlife

    Pond Or Lake?

    Even though lakes do not receive sunlight enough to allow aquatic life to grow throughout, they provide homes to many birds and animals. The different types of fish grow and thrive in lakes. For example, Sturgeon, a fish that grows 6 meters and weighs around 680 kilograms is usually found in lakes.

    Lakes are also breeding grounds for other animals, including bats, mink, turtles, alligators, and beavers.

    Not just animals, different types of birds and fish are most commonly found in lakes.

    What is the Difference Between the Two?

    Like I mentioned earlier, size and depth are proven to be two relative properties that distinguish the two. However, there’s no set area to dictate the difference between lakes and ponds.

    When I was in Russia, I had a healthy debate about lakes and ponds with my fellow hobbyists, to which they replied;

    “Lake is natural water basin with slow water exchange and pond is shallow artificial water reservoir with an area of not more than 1km2.” It makes complete sense, but still highly questionable.

    So, are there any differences between lakes and ponds? The answer is yes, though the line is slightly blurred.

    A body of water with its own Microclimate

    This is the most noticeable difference between lakes and ponds. The lakes have their own microclimate and they develop their own small waves in gusty conditions, preventing plants from growing right up to the water’s edge.

    Contrastingly, ponds produce waves smaller than 12 inches in height.

    Has a varied Water Temperature

    Water in lakes has independent temperature layers, depending on the depth. However, a pond is a shallow enough body of water that is uniform in temperature throughout.

    Size and Depth of Both Bodies of Water

    The overall area and depth distinctions define the lakes and ponds. As a general rule of thumb, lakes are usually larger and much deeper than ponds.

    In lakes, the sun rays can’t reach the bottom, whereas a pond is a body of water that is shallow enough to receive sun rays at the bottom.

    The Presence of Vegetation

    Since lakes (aphotic zone) are bodies of water that occupy a large surface area, sunlight doesn’t reach the floor, preventing aquatic plants from growing. According to some Limnologists, lakes allow rooted plants to grow around their edges only.

    On the other hand, ponds (photic zone) are shallow bodies of water that allow natural weeds to take roots on the bottom and grow gracefully. As a result, rich vegetation and rooted plants thrive smoothly at the bottom of your ponds, and sometimes the surface.

    Temperature During Summers

    Lake Summertime

    Temperatures in summers usually define the differences between ponds and lakes. In Limnology, if the water body is deep and laminate into three distinct layers, the water body is considered a lake. The three layers are stratified as;

    1. Warm layer on the top
    2. The cold layer at the ground
    3. A layer of varying temperature in between termed Thermocline.

    However, during summers, if a standing water body has one or two weakly defined layers, it is considered a pond.

    Effect on Environment

    One factor that really sets pond and lake apart from each other is their individual effects on the surrounding environment.

    Lakes affect the climate of their surrounding environment. However, ponds are affected by the surrounding ecosystem

    The Bottom Line

    In conclusion, even though, not scientifically proven, there is a fine line between a pond and a lake. Therefore, the name, lake, or pond is arbitrary and not based on scientific facts. In general, the following differences might help you distinguish between the two.

    1. In most cases, lakes are much deeper than ponds.
    2. Ponds produce smaller waves around 12 inches in height.
    3. Since lakes are deep standing bodies of water, sunlight doesn’t reach the ground which results in poor or no plantation.
    4. Unlike ponds, lakes host crocodiles, platypus, and other creatures.
    5. The temperature in ponds is relatively uniform than in lakes.

    FAQs

    What makes lakes?

    It all lies in the depth and how the sunlight reaches the bottom of the water body. The water temperatures of lakes range in layers. The lake floor is too deep to support plant life. Hence, as the pond gets deeper (until no sun rays reach the bottom), it becomes the lake.

    Can you swim in the water?

    One might think; water bodies, as shallow as ponds might be safe to swim in. However, according to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, swimming in a pond might result in serious illness, especially in children, elders, and people with the weak immune system.

    At what point does a pond become a lake?

    Charles Elton was one of the most prominent founders of ecology who stated that lakes are the water bodies of 40 hectares (99 acres) or more. Therefore, a pond has to be 40 hectares to become a lake.

    How big can it get?

    There is no maximum or minimum size of a pond. Theoretically, a pond remains a pond until the sunlight reaches its bottom (photic zone). However, according to Wikipedia, the international Ramsar wetland convention sets the upper limit for pond size as 8 hectares (20 acres).

    Final Thoughts

    The differences between a pond and a lake are not drastic but important. Therefore, it’s best to educate yourself before going into the aquatic business.

    One fascinating thing about lakes is that they can turn into ponds, marshes, swamps, or worse, dry grounds, if not properly taken care of. 

    Hence, whatever you have, maintain its health and take care of the ecosystem to keep it thriving and healthy.

    References

  • Amano Shrimp Care Guide: The Best Algae Eater in the Hobby

    Amano Shrimp Care Guide: The Best Algae Eater in the Hobby

    If I could only add one invert to any planted tank I own, it would be Amano shrimp. Every single time. They work harder, eat more algae, and handle themselves better in a community tank than any other freshwater cleanup crew species I’ve kept. But “easy cleanup crew” is where most care guides stop, and that’s where most beginners go wrong.

    Most people buy three. They should buy ten.

    Amano shrimp are tougher to keep than their reputation suggests. Copper in medications or plant fertilizers can wipe out a colony before you notice anything is wrong. They can’t breed in a standard freshwater tank without a separate brackish grow-out setup that most hobbyists will never build. And they’re deceptively sensitive to acclimation stress when first introduced. Get the conditions right and these shrimp are genuinely thriving workers. Get them wrong, and you’ll be buying replacements on a loop without understanding why.

    Table of Contents

    Key Takeaways

    • Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata) are the most effective algae-eating invertebrate in the freshwater hobby. Nothing else comes close for biofilm and hair algae.
    • Buy more than you think you need. Three shrimp in a 20-gallon (75-liter) tank is decoration. Ten or more creates meaningful algae control.
    • Copper is fatal. Check every medication, fertilizer, and tap water additive for copper content before using it in a tank with Amanos.
    • They cannot breed in a standard freshwater aquarium. The larvae require brackish water to survive. Most hobbyists buy replacements rather than breed them.
    • A sponge pre-filter on all intakes is mandatory. Standard filter intakes will catch and kill them.
    • Amano shrimp are sensitive to poor acclimation. Use the drip method when introducing them to a new tank.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Caridina multidentata
    Common Names Amano Shrimp, Yamato Shrimp, Japonica Shrimp, Algae Eating Shrimp
    Family Atyidae
    Origin Japan, Taiwan
    Care Level Intermediate
    Temperament Peaceful
    Diet Omnivore / Algae grazer
    Tank Level All areas
    Max Size 2 inches (5 cm)
    Min Tank Size 5 gallons (19 liters)
    Temperature 65°F to 78°F (18°C to 26°C)
    pH 6.5 to 8.0
    Hardness 6 to 8 dKH
    Lifespan 2 to 5 years

    Classification

    Order Decapoda
    Suborder Pleocyemata
    Family Atyidae
    Genus Caridina
    Species C. multidentata (Stimpson, 1860)

    Taxonomy note: For most of aquarium hobby history, this species was known as Caridina japonica (de Man, 1892). In 2006, Yamamoto and Hori’s research established that C. japonica was a junior synonym of the earlier-described C. multidentata (Stimpson, 1860). The correct scientific name is now Caridina multidentata, though Caridina japonica still appears widely in older care guides and some retail labeling. Both names refer to the same species.

    Origin and Natural Habitat

    True Amano shrimp are native to Japan and Taiwan. In Japan, they’re found in fast-moving coastal streams and rivers in Shikoku and Kyushu. They have an amphidromous life cycle, meaning they migrate between freshwater and saltwater at different life stages: adults and juveniles live in freshwater, but larvae hatch and must reach brackish or marine water to develop. This is the biological reason they’re nearly impossible to breed in a standard home aquarium.

    Takashi Amano, the founder of modern planted tank aquascaping, popularized these shrimp specifically for algae control in his Nature Aquarium style tanks in the 1990s. The shrimp was named in his honor. His approach, using dense planting, CO2 injection, and macro nutrient dosing, is still the environment where Amano shrimp thrive most visibly. In my experience with Tom Barr’s balanced macro dosing approach in heavily planted setups, Amanos in those tanks are genuinely fat, active, and working constantly. The more plant surface area available, the more biofilm and soft algae they can graze on between feedings.

    Appearance and Identification

    Amano Shrimp Female
    Female Amano Shrimp
    Amano Shrimp Male
    Male Amano Shrimp

    Amano shrimp have translucent to pale gray bodies with a distinctive tan or brown pattern running along the back and sides. A white or light stripe runs from head to tail. The body is covered in small dots and dashes of brown that form the characteristic spotting pattern. Their black eyes stand out clearly against the pale body. They’re not colorful shrimp in the way cherry shrimp are. Cherry shrimp get the color; Amanos get the size and work ethic.

    Male vs. Female

    Sexing Amano shrimp is straightforward once you know the pattern differences. Females are larger overall and show an elongated row of brown dashes along the lower body. Males are smaller with a pattern of scattered dots rather than the elongated dashes. Females also develop a visible “saddle” area for carrying eggs. A fully grown female will typically be noticeably larger than a male of the same age.

    • Female: Larger body, brown dashes along the lower sides, visible saddle, more prominent white stripe along the top
    • Male: Smaller, brown dots rather than dashes, no saddle, slightly more faint stripe

    Females will attempt to breed shortly after molting, releasing pheromones that trigger a frantic swimming display in males throughout the tank.

    Average Size and Lifespan

    Amano shrimp reach about 2 inches (5 cm) at full size. Females consistently run larger than males. Their larger size compared to cherry shrimp is one of the key reasons they fare better in community tanks: most small community fish can’t fit a full-grown Amano in their mouth.

    Lifespan in a well-maintained freshwater aquarium is typically 2 to 3 years, though some individuals reach 5 years with excellent care and stable parameters. The most common cause of shortened lifespan is repeated exposure to trace copper or chronic low-level parameter stress.

    Care Guide

    ASD Difficulty Rating: Intermediate (5/10)
    Amano shrimp are easy to keep alive in stable, established tanks but have hidden demands that catch beginners off guard. Copper sensitivity, acclimation stress, and molting-related problems require more attention than the “beginner shrimp” label suggests. In a mature planted tank with clean parameters, they’re genuinely low maintenance. In a new tank or a medicated system, they’re unforgiving.

    Tank Size

    The minimum tank size for Amano shrimp is 5 gallons (19 liters), but they perform best and show their full behavior in larger setups. The rule of thumb is one shrimp per 2 gallons (7.5 liters), though this is a rough guide. For meaningful algae control in a 20-gallon (75-liter) planted community tank, plan on 10 or more shrimp. Three or four shrimp in that same tank will look nice but won’t move the needle on algae.

    Amano shrimp are escape artists. They will find any gap in a lid and jump through it, especially when first introduced or after a water change. A tight-fitting cover is mandatory. Mesh nets are too wide for shrimp-sized gaps. Glass lids or solid covers are best.

    Water Parameters

    Temperature 65°F to 78°F (18°C to 26°C)
    pH 6.5 to 8.0
    Hardness (KH) 1 to 10 dKH
    TDS 150 to 200 ppm
    Ammonia 0 ppm
    Nitrite 0 ppm
    Nitrate Under 20 ppm
    Copper 0 (lethal at trace levels)

    Amano shrimp are more parameter-tolerant than many caridina species but are strictly sensitive to copper, ammonia spikes, and rapid parameter changes. The TDS range of 150 to 200 ppm is similar to cherry shrimp. Monitor with an aquarium test kit regularly and perform water changes of 25 to 30% every two weeks. Check water hardness if you’re experiencing persistent molting problems: low GH is a common cause of failed molts.

    Filtration and Water Flow

    Amano shrimp need gentle filtration. Strong flow creates stress and can exhaust them. More critically: standard filter intakes will catch and kill them. A sponge filter is the safest option for a shrimp-only or shrimp-primary tank. In community tanks with larger filters, cover all intakes with a pre-filter sponge. This is not optional.

    Sponge filters also provide an additional benefit: Amanos graze constantly on the biofilm that builds up on the sponge exterior. It’s an active feeding area for them between regular food offerings.

    Editor’s Choice

    Hikari Bacto Surge Sponge Filter
    Hikari Bacto Surge Sponge Filter

    The Best Sponge Filter

    With a name brand and high quality reputation, the Bacto Surge separates itself from the pack.

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    For community tanks where you need a hang-on-back or canister filter for fish filtration, fit a sponge pre-filter over every intake. Replace the sponge every two to four weeks so it doesn’t restrict flow.

    Lighting

    Amano shrimp have no specific lighting requirements. They adapt to any light level the tank uses. If you’re running a planted tank with higher light and CO2, they’ll be perfectly comfortable and more active in the abundant algae growth that setup produces. Dim planted tank setups work just as well. Match lighting to your plants, not to the shrimp.

    Plants and Decorations

    Dense planting is where Amano shrimp thrive. More plant surface area means more biofilm, more algae, and more foraging opportunity. They clean every surface they can reach: plant leaves, driftwood, rock faces, substrate, and the glass itself. Plants also matter for molting cover. After molting, Amanos are soft and vulnerable for a day or two and need places to hide.

    Good plant options for Amano tanks:

    Driftwood is particularly valuable. Amanos graze on the biofilm that develops on wood surfaces and seem to prefer it as a primary foraging location. Aquarium driftwood stands out visually against Amano’s pale body and creates a natural contrast that looks excellent in planted setups.

    Great For Shrimp Tanks!

    Cholla Wood
    Cholla Wood

    Cholla is best known for being an excellent wood for pet shrimp. It naturally decays and provides both food and shelter.

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    Click For Best Price

    Moss is valuable specifically for molting cover. A dense patch of Christmas Moss or java moss gives freshly molted shrimp a place to hide while their shells harden.


    Christmas Moss
    Christmas Moss

    An easy to care ground cover plant that is an excellent choice for shrimp tanks. Provides cover and a foraging surface.

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    Substrate

    Amano shrimp spend much of their time at the substrate level and graze on it constantly. Fine-grain substrates work better than coarse gravel for shrimp: more surface area for biofilm, easier foraging. Shrimp-specific substrates like planted tank substrates that buffer pH toward slightly acidic are ideal in planted setups. Rinse any substrate thoroughly before use.

    Best Value

    Fluval Stratum
    Fluval Stratum

    Best Value

    A beginner-friendly alternative to ADA Soil. Works well for planted tanks and shrimp setups.

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    Tank Mates

    Best Tank Mates

    Amano shrimp are almost universally found in planted and community tanks, not shrimp-only setups. Their 2-inch (5 cm) size gives them protection that smaller shrimp species don’t have. The following fish coexist well with Amanos in most setups:

    Tank Mates to Avoid

    Any fish with a mouth large enough to swallow a 2-inch (5 cm) shrimp is a risk. Amanos are also vulnerable immediately after molting, when their new shell is soft and other fish may pick at them.

    • Cichlids
    • Goldfish
    • Large barbs, aggressive loaches, large catfish
    • Any fish with a mouth large enough to fit a full-grown shrimp

    Food and Diet

    In a planted tank with biofilm and algae, Amano shrimp rarely need supplemental feeding. They graze constantly on algae, biofilm, and decaying plant matter throughout the day. The challenge is actually the opposite of what most people expect: feed them too well and they stop eating algae, which defeats the purpose of keeping them.

    In tanks with minimal algae or multiple shrimp competing for resources, supplement feeding with specialty shrimp foods. Dennerle Shrimp King Food works well: the pellets are small enough for shrimp to grab and carry away from the competition, and the formula is targeted for invertebrate nutritional needs.

    In a community tank, note that Amanos are aggressive feeders and will outcompete slower fish during feeding time. Scatter food to give slower fish a chance to eat before Amanos claim everything.

    My Pick

    Dennerle Shrimp King Food
    Dennerle Shrimp King Food

    Great For Freshwater Shrimp!

    A targeted food for shrimp that supports color and condition. Small pellets that shrimp can carry away and eat undisturbed.

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    Breeding and Reproduction

    Amano shrimp are nearly impossible to breed in a standard home aquarium. This isn’t a care failure. It’s biology. The larvae hatch in freshwater but require brackish water to survive and develop. Without a separate brackish grow-out system and live phytoplankton for the zoea stage, the larvae die within days. Most hobbyists buy replacements rather than attempt breeding.

    Sexing Amano Shrimp

    Female Amano shrimp:

    • Larger overall body size
    • Elongated brown dashes along the lower body (not dots)
    • Visible saddle area for carrying eggs
    • Whiter, more prominent stripe running from head to tail

    Male Amano shrimp:

    • Smaller than females
    • Brown dots along the body (not elongated dashes)
    • No saddle
    • Slightly less prominent stripe

    Females will attempt to breed after molting, releasing pheromones that cause males to swim frantically throughout the tank searching for her. This “mating frenzy” is a common sight and how you know breeding has been triggered.

    Breeding Process (Advanced)

    For the serious hobbyist who wants to attempt breeding:

    • Move a berried female to a separate brackish tank (35 PPT / 1.026 SG) before larvae hatch
    • Transfer larvae within minutes of hatching: they need brackish water immediately to survive
    • Feed larvae live phytoplankton or diatoms. Algae Barn Ocean Magik phytoplankton is a reliable choice
    • Larvae reach juvenile stage around 20 days
    • Drip acclimate juveniles from 35 PPT to 5 PPT over 12 to 24 hours before moving to freshwater
    • Grow-out tank should be 2.5 to 5 gallons with water changes every 2 to 4 days
    • Do not add juveniles to a tank with fish until they reach at least 1 inch (2.5 cm)

    The female reproductive cycle timeline:

    • Molt to berried: 1 day
    • Berried to larvae drop: approximately 17 days
    • Drop to next batch: 5 to 7 days
    • Larvae to juvenile stage: approximately 20 days

    Amano shrimp will not crossbreed with other shrimp species. If you’re maintaining a stable mixed-shrimp tank and want to avoid breeding chaos, Amanos are reliable on this point.

    Best Phytoplankton

    Algae Barn Ocean Magik
    Algae Barn Ocean Magik

    Best Phytoplankton

    Loaded with 4 types of phyto. Excellent for shrimp larvae during the zoea stage of development.

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    For the freshwater-to-brackish acclimation step, use a precision drip acclimator. I recommend Innovative Marine’s Accudrip for the precise flow control it provides during the critical salinity transition.

    Get For Acclimation

    Accudrip Acclimator
    Accudrip Acclimator

    Precision drip acclimator for sensitive shrimp and fish. Essential for salinity transitions during Amano shrimp larvae acclimation.

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    Molting

    Amano Shrimp Molt

    Molting is the process by which Amano shrimp shed their old exoskeleton to grow. The shell doesn’t grow with the shrimp, so it must be periodically replaced. You’ll know a molt happened when you find a clear, shrimp-shaped shell in the tank. Don’t remove it immediately: the shrimp will often eat the shed shell to reclaim calcium and other minerals.

    A freshly molted shrimp has a soft new shell for the first 24 to 48 hours. During this time it’s vulnerable to attacks from tank mates and needs hiding spots. Dense plant cover or moss is critical during molting recovery.

    If you find a shrimp lying on its side and are unsure whether it’s molting or dead: a molted or molting shrimp will be white or very pale. A dead shrimp will turn orange, pink, or gray and will show signs of decomposition. A freshly shed shell looks exactly like a complete shrimp but is completely clear and hollow.

    Molting Problems

    Failed molts are the most common serious health issue in Amano shrimp keeping. A shrimp that gets “stuck” in its old shell will die. Common causes:

    • Low GH (general hardness): Shrimp need adequate calcium and magnesium to build new shells. If your tap water is very soft, supplement with GH booster or mineral additives.
    • Temperature fluctuations: Inconsistent temperature disrupts the molting cycle.
    • Parameter crashes: Rapid changes in pH, ammonia spikes, or copper exposure during a molt are often fatal.
    • Stress: Aggressive tank mates or sudden changes can trigger a premature molt before the shrimp is ready.

    Common Health Issues

    Copper Toxicity

    Copper is the most common cause of sudden, unexplained Amano shrimp death. It’s lethal at trace concentrations that would not harm fish. Sources include copper-based medications (Cupramine, copper sulfate), some plant fertilizers, and copper plumbing in older homes that can leach into tap water. If your shrimp die suddenly after a water change or medication, copper is the first suspect. Test your source water and every additive you use for copper content before adding anything to an Amano tank.

    Bacterial Infections

    Bacterial infections typically develop after a compromised molt, an injury, or in chronically poor water quality. Signs include white or opaque patches on the body, abnormal posture, or a shrimp that stops moving. Improve water quality and isolate affected individuals. Prevention is better than treatment: maintain clean water and don’t overfeed.

    Acclimation Shock

    Amano shrimp are sensitive to parameter differences between the transport bag and the destination tank. Float the bag for 15 to 20 minutes to temperature-match, then drip acclimate over 30 to 60 minutes before transferring. Dumping them directly from bag to tank is a reliable way to lose them within 24 hours.

    What It Is Actually Like Keeping Amano Shrimp

    Amanos are not shy. They don’t hide the way cherry shrimp do when stressed. In a stable tank, they’re out and active throughout the day, methodically working every surface. They’ll graze the glass, pick through the substrate, work over the driftwood, and clean every plant leaf they can reach. Watching a group of Amanos tackle a patch of hair algae is genuinely satisfying. They pick it apart strand by strand and keep going.

    In heavily planted CO2-injected tanks, using balanced macro dosing along the lines of Tom Barr’s approach, Amanos thrive visibly. They’re fat, active, and working constantly. The more plant surface area available, the more productive they are. You can almost see the correlation between the health of the tank and the behavior of the shrimp.

    The mating behavior is dramatic and unmistakable. When a female molts and releases pheromones, male Amanos will swim frantically through the entire tank, bumping into everything, looking increasingly desperate. It looks like something is wrong. Nothing is wrong. It’s completely normal and usually lasts a few hours.

    When a shrimp is about to molt, it will go still and hide for a day or two beforehand. After the molt, the empty shell appears and the shrimp often eats it immediately. This is also normal. They’re recycling the minerals.

    Expert Take

    I use Amano shrimp in my own tanks regularly. In a CO2-injected planted setup with balanced macro nutrients, they’re genuinely one of the best things you can add. Ten or more in a 30-gallon planted tank, and the algae situation takes care of itself. The one thing I tell every keeper who’s new to them: check your fertilizers and medications for copper before you add anything to that tank. I’ve seen people lose entire colonies to a single dose of a copper-based medication they didn’t think to check. That’s the only way to kill Amanos quickly and the easiest mistake to avoid.

    Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    Common Mistakes to Avoid

    Hard Rule: Check everything for copper before it goes in your tank. Medications, plant fertilizers, tap water additives, even some food products contain trace copper. Amano shrimp cannot survive copper exposure at levels that fish tolerate without problems. One treatment with a copper-based parasite medication can eliminate your entire colony. Test your tap water if you’re on city water or have older copper plumbing. This is the single most preventable cause of Amano shrimp loss.

    • Not buying enough. Three to five Amanos in a 20-gallon (75-liter) planted tank looks nice but doesn’t move the algae needle. You need ten or more for meaningful impact. Scale up the number to match the tank size.
    • No pre-filter sponge on intakes. Standard filter intakes will catch and kill Amano shrimp. Cover every intake with a sponge pre-filter before adding shrimp to the tank.
    • Poor acclimation. Amanos are sensitive to parameter differences between bag water and tank water. Always drip acclimate. Never dump them straight from the bag.
    • Overfeeding. In a planted tank with algae, they don’t need supplemental food. Feed them well and they’ll stop cleaning algae. Feed them nothing and they’ll work all day.
    • Expecting them to breed. They won’t in freshwater. Plan on buying replacements every few years as individuals age out.
    • Low GH water. Very soft water causes molting problems. If you’re on soft municipal water, add a GH booster to maintain adequate calcium and magnesium for shell development.

    Should You Get Amano Shrimp?

    Good Fit If:

    • You have a planted tank with algae problems that need long-term management
    • Your tank is mature, cycled, and has stable parameters
    • You keep community fish that are small enough to be shrimp-safe
    • You’re willing to check all medications and fertilizers for copper content
    • You want a highly active, visible invert that earns its place in the tank

    Avoid If:

    • You keep cichlids, goldfish, or any fish large enough to eat a 2-inch (5 cm) shrimp
    • You routinely use copper-based medications for disease treatment
    • Your tank is newly set up or has unstable parameters. Amanos don’t handle parameter swings well.
    • You’re hoping to breed them. Most hobbyists never successfully breed Amanos, and the brackish larval stage makes it a serious dedicated project.

    How It Compares

    Amano Shrimp vs. Cherry Shrimp: Choose Amanos if algae control is the priority. Choose Cherry shrimp if color and breeding activity are what you want. Cherry shrimp breed freely in freshwater, come in vivid red and other color morphs, and are more visually striking per individual. Amanos are larger, eat more algae per shrimp, and handle a community tank more confidently. In a dedicated planted aquascape focused on algae management, Amanos win. In a nano shrimp tank where breeding colonies and color are the goal, cherry shrimp win.

    Amano Shrimp vs. Nerite Snails: Both are excellent algae eaters with no natural freshwater breeding. Nerites are better at spot-cleaning diatoms and hard algae on glass and hardscapes. Amanos are better at hair algae and biofilm on plants. Many serious planted tank keepers use both together: nerites for the glass and rock surfaces, Amanos for the plants and substrate. They don’t compete and serve complementary roles.

    Where to Buy

    Amano shrimp are widely available. For the healthiest stock, buy from a specialty aquarium retailer or direct shipper rather than a chain store:

    Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!

    Amano Shrimp
    Amano Shrimp

    Best For Planted Tanks!

    When it comes to algae control in a planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the top choice. Their appetite for hair algae and biofilm can’t be matched by other shrimp species.

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    • Flip Aquatics – Healthy, acclimation-ready Amano shrimp from a reputable source
    • Dan’s Fish – Specialty freshwater aquarium retailer with quality invertebrate stock

    FAQs

    How many Amano shrimp do I need for algae control?

    More than most people buy. A good starting point is one shrimp per 2 gallons (7.5 liters), but for meaningful algae control in a planted tank you want at least 10 in a 20-gallon (75-liter) setup. Three or four shrimp in that same tank will look nice but won’t significantly impact algae growth. Scale up the number to the tank size.

    Can Amano shrimp breed in a freshwater tank?

    No. Amano shrimp larvae hatch in freshwater but require brackish water to develop. Without a separate brackish grow-out system, live phytoplankton, and precise salinity management, the larvae die within days of hatching. This is one of the more complex invert breeding projects in the hobby. Most keepers buy replacements as needed rather than attempting to breed them.

    Why do my Amano shrimp keep dying?

    The most common cause of sudden, unexplained Amano shrimp death is copper. Check every medication, fertilizer, and water additive you’re using for copper content. Even trace amounts that fish tolerate without problems can kill shrimp. Other common causes include poor acclimation when first introduced, ammonia spikes, rapid parameter changes, and low GH leading to failed molts. Test your water parameters and review everything you’ve added to the tank recently.

    Do Amano shrimp eat fish?

    No. Amano shrimp are peaceful and will not harm healthy fish. They may scavenge a dead or dying fish, which is sometimes mistaken for predation. They’re safe with virtually any fish that can’t fit them in their mouth.

    Why is my Amano shrimp lying on its side?

    If the shrimp is pale or clear, it is probably molting or has just molted. The shed exoskeleton looks exactly like a complete shrimp but is hollow. If the shrimp is orange, pink, or gray, it is dead. A shrimp that is actively struggling on its side and appears to be stuck in its old shell is experiencing a failed molt, often caused by low GH or parameter stress.

    Can Amano shrimp live with betta fish?

    Sometimes, but not reliably. Individual bettas vary significantly in temperament toward shrimp. Some bettas ignore Amanos entirely; others hunt them persistently. A planted 10-gallon (38-liter) or larger tank with plenty of dense plant cover gives Amanos escape routes and reduces the risk. Observe carefully after introduction and have a plan to separate if needed. There is no guarantee of compatibility with bettas.

    What algae do Amano shrimp eat?

    Amano shrimp eat most types of soft algae: hair algae, thread algae, biofilm, and green spot algae (when it’s still soft and thin). They’re particularly effective on hair algae and biofilm on plant surfaces. They’re less effective on black beard algae and thick spot algae once it’s hardened. For black beard algae, liquid carbon (Seachem Excel) as a spot treatment combined with Amano shrimp gives the best results.

    Are Amano shrimp hard to keep?

    They’re intermediate difficulty. In a mature, stable planted tank with clean parameters, they’re low maintenance. The hidden demands are copper sensitivity (which can kill a colony silently), acclimation sensitivity, and GH requirements for healthy molting. The “easy cleanup crew” reputation undersells how specific their needs are. Get those three things right and they’re genuinely easy. Miss one and you’ll lose them without understanding why.

    Closing Thoughts

    Amano shrimp earn their reputation as the best algae eater in the freshwater hobby. In a properly set up planted tank, a group of ten or more working a 30-gallon (114-liter) aquarium is one of the most satisfying things in this hobby to watch. They don’t demand attention. They don’t cause problems. They just work, constantly, all day, on every surface in the tank.

    The keys are straightforward: buy more than you think you need, check everything for copper, and drip acclimate when you add them. Get those right and Amano shrimp are genuinely one of the best investments you can make in a planted tank setup.

    References

    • Yamamoto, Y. and Hori, M. (2006). Taxonomic revision of the Caridina japonica species group. Crustacean Research.
    • Stimpson, W. (1860). Prodromus descriptionis animalium evertebratorum. Proceedings of the Academy of Natural Sciences of Philadelphia.
    • Zoological Society of Japan: Breeding biology study of Caridina multidentata. Available at zdw.zoology.or.jp
    • Seriously Fish: Caridina multidentata species profile. seriouslyfish.com
    • FishBase / Shrimp Database: Caridina multidentata (Stimpson, 1860). fishbase.org
  • Aquael Multikani 800 Review: A Comprehensive Look at a Versatile, Smaller-sized Canister Filter

    Aquael Multikani 800 Review: A Comprehensive Look at a Versatile, Smaller-sized Canister Filter

    If you have seen my best canister filter review post, you know that I’m a big fan of European filters. Knowing this, you can tell how my excitement was when I got the word that Aquael was coming to the US. I just had to do an Aquael Multikani 800 review.

    From the Dutch Aquascape to the Dutch Reefing system to legendary manufacturers like Eheim, Europe has filled our hobby with quality and innovation. Aquael is a company that has been in the industry for over 40 years. They specialize in aquarium products, and their experience shows. The Aquael Multikani 800 filter is designed to be very versatile and work well with tanks of all sizes. It’s also easy to set up, maintain, and use! Read on below for our full review on this product.

    In this post, I will dive into how the Multikani has a unique place in the Canister Filter space and how this Polish manufacturer is making a name for itself. Let’s get started!

    In this review, will go over the following:

    • Features
    • Craftsmanship
    • Ease of Use
    • Value for Money
    • Product Support
    • Price

    In a hurry? I recommend purchasing the AquaEl MultiKani from Amazon

    Aquael Multikani 800 Features

    The Aquael Multikani 800 has a compact size that makes it perfect for smaller tanks. The biggest feature is its ability to expand with its expandable chambers. You can add up to 8 additional cambers by purchasing expansion packs from Aquael. It’s really easy to achieve crystal clear aquarium water with this filter by expanding and customizating the filtration cartridges .

    AquaEl Multikani Features

    Multikani Expansions

    The Aquael Multikani 800 has 4 different expansion cartridges you can order. The four types are:

    • ZeoMAX Plus
    • Carbo Max Plus
    • BioCeraMax Pro
    • PhosMAX Basic

    While all of these will serve a purpose in a freshwater aquarium, personally I would prefer to add my own media. I’ll get into that later. For what Aquael offers stock, I would say the BioCeraMax and Carbo Max chemical filtration are the best cartridges to purchase. All the expansion cartridges are reusable.

    The filter has a level to adjust to have different levels of flow, which you adjust by sliding the level. The first level is for gentle to moderate water movement, while the furthest is more aggressive.

    Child Proof Lock

    AquaEl Multikani Child Proof Lock

    The Multikani is opened and locked with a special plastic key as showed in the above picture. This key is removable and can be stored safely making this one of the few truly child proof aquarium filters on the market. A huge plus for parents!

    External Pump

    Multikani Canister Filter External Pump

    The Aquael external pump is rated for 210 gallons per hour and can be hooked up outside of the canister filter. This allows you to clean the filer while having the pump still circulate your aquarium water!

    AquaEl Multikani Removable Lid

    This is not the first time I’ve been impressed with Aquael products. This is not the first time I’ve been impressed with Aquael products. After all, I did review the Cobalt EXT. The EXT is actually manufactured by Aquael. I just did not know that at the time. They also make the Cobalt Neo-Therm, one of the best aquarium heaters on the market.

    Craftsmanship

    Aquael has been in the industry for over 35 years, and their experience is evident in the quality of their products. They have over 600 employees all over the world, and every 15 seconds, someone in the world purchases a heater manufactured by them. They have two factories both in Europe and sell in over 100 countries

    Aquael Manufacturing Plant

    As you can see, Aquael is a high quality manufacturer. The Multikani is no exception to their standard. There is no cheap plastic feeling with this canister filter. Aquael backs their filter with a 2-year warranty. This puts them above the cheaper filters like the SunSun and less than the OASE and Fluval. They are definitely positioning themselves as a value based brand.

    800 Value For Money

    When it comes to value, I feel the the Multikani has positioned itself as the top budget option buy when it comes to canister filters. It compares best with the SunSun filter. While the SunSun is a bigger filter, it is also more expensive and has been knowing for having quality control issues.

    The Multikani in comparison, has a lower price point and can expand it over time. While it can do up to 8 cartridges, I don’t feel you won’t need more than 3 or 4 paired with the pump it comes with. You can expand it to 3 cartridges and still be under $100 for a high quality canister filter. Given it’s not built cheap and has a quality manufacturer making it, I’m really happy with this product.

    800 Ease of Use

    I found the Aquael not as intuitive as other canister filters I have worked with. It is a unique filter after all. The biggest thing I had to get over was how durable the equipment is. At first, I was concerned about breaking the key that locks and unlocks the filter. The plastic is heavy duty. I thought that it was going to be delicate due to the price point.

    The instructions are actually easy to follow, it’s just that the pictures are tiny. I provided a screenshot below of the configurations and the copy of the instructions below for easy reference.

    Multikani Instructions
    Aquael Multikani InstructionsDownload

    It was really easy to get it installed in the tank. The unit does not have a self priming feature, so you will need to prime it the old school way. It makes sense that this filter would have this feature given the size of it. To prime, you will need to suck on the tube to deliver water to the pump. It is an old fashion way of setting up a canister these days, but since the filter can keep pumping even when you are cleaning it, you technically will only need to do this once.

    Product Support

    Aquael is new to the US Market. Knowing this, we know that product support is going to be limited as there is not a big user base. If you are purchasing from one of their resellers like Cobalt, you should be in pretty good hands as Cobalt has great customer service. The same can be said with Amazon since Amazon is willing to work with the buyers.

    One of Aquael’s biggest criticism is the lack of email support. For phone support though, their service is great. The same can be said if you purchase the product at an LFS in the UK. I imagine Aquael will have similar service in the US with LFS. The only service number they have at the time of this article is (22) 644 76 16 int. 1138. It’s an international number, but they speak english. They should have a US number in the future as they expand distribution.

    Multikani Price

    I find Aquael’s products in between the prices of premium sellers like OASE and discount sellers like SunSun. For the Multikani, you will spend slightly less than the SunSun, but the filter will be small and the output will be as well. This places the Multikani in slower flowing smaller tanks. For a have flow and filtration heavy setup like a African Cichlid tank, I would recommend looking into an OASE or stepping up to their UltraMax filter.

    This canister filter fits really well in aquariums 40 gallons and under. It is super quiet and can be expanded. Anything larger, I would recommend stepping up to a bigger capacity and higher flow canister. I think it’s probably the best filter you can buy that will work with larger betta fish tank setups and other setups that require lower flow. It’s also great for turtle tanks and shallow water tank setups.

    Aquael vs Oase vs Fluval

    Let’s talk about the elephant in the room – how does Aquael compared to the established European players in the market. All these brands and filters will produce crystal clear aquarium water, but there are differences between the brands that I will explain below.

    Aquael vs Oase

    Versus Oase, the Aquael offers a lower price. The best comparable filter in OASE’s line up would be the Filtosmart 60 or 100. You will need to add an expansion cartridge to make the Multikani comparable to it. With that, I find the Multikani better than the Filtosmart. You do not have to take out the entire unit to clean it out.

    Another issue with the Filtosmart is the filtration confriguration. It’s in the wrong order. The Multikani is simple, it works from the top down so you just need to place all your mechanical filtration at the top to get the cleanest water in the biological chambers. The Multikani is cheaper, easier to use, and more convenient than the OASE.

    Aquael vs Fluval

    The Aquael Multikani is best compared to the Fluval 107. The Fluval has bigger filtration capacity, a higher flow rate, and a higher price tag. The Aquael offers a more compact size, cheaper price. Between the two, the Fluval canister filter definitely has an edge, but at a higher price tag.

    If your focus is on cost, I would go with the Multikani for a smaller tank. If your focus is on features, I would look at the Fluval 107 instead. The fluval is more suited for traditional community tanks while the Multikani is best suited for low flow setups.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Multikani a great option for small tanks or setups that require a lower flow rate. The filter comes with everything you need to get started- including tubing, fittings, and media. It’s also easy to install and maintain without any special tools or training required! Aquael is a trusted brand for all your aquarium needs, and the Multikani filter provides an excellent value. Click here to purchase this item from a trusted retailer today.

    🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

    References

  • POND MAINTENANCE- THE MOST IMPORTANT POND TIPS YOU SHOULD KNOW

    POND MAINTENANCE- THE MOST IMPORTANT POND TIPS YOU SHOULD KNOW

    Let’s be honest, backyard ponds look beautiful with all vegetation and aquatic life swirling in circles gracefully. But it’s the pond maintenance that demands arduous hours of labor.

    Most pond hobbyists are aware of the fact that an unhealthy pond means an unhealthy ecosystem that is dangerous and detrimental to you and the environment. Therefore, it’s imperative that you do your research and homework before creating your own, beautiful garden ponds.

    In this article, I’m putting my years of experience to use and demonstrating seasonal pond maintenance and the recommended steps to follow during each season.

    Happy pond keeping!

    Seasonal Pond Maintenance

    Nature behaves differently in all seasons, and so does your pond. Therefore, you cannot follow the same tips throughout the year. Pond keeping demands in-depth knowledge and research about seasonal pond maintenance and its effects on your aquatic life.

    Usually, the type of pond determines its maintenance. However, this article will highlight popular seasonal pond maintenance tips that are particularly apt for spring start-ups to summer pond maintenance.

    Videos are always helpful, so for those that prefer to learn through video, here is a great video by anypond below. He’s a UK pond maintenance contractor.

    So if you’re new to water gardening, stay tuned to learn the essentials of pond care and maintenance.

    Spring

    During the spring season, your pond demands to be cleaned and un-winterized.

    Or if I may say so, spring pond maintenance is just the opposite of winter preparations. While in winter, you winterize your equipment for the cold, dry days, spring brings joy and life to your ponds and brings your aquatic life back from its long hibernation period.

    Here are the ideal easy steps for spring pond maintenance.

    1. Check Your Equipment

    Check your equipment and make sure they are running properly. Winter is the best time to replace UV bulbs and clean your equipment. Spring is the time to double check to ensure everything is in working order.

    2. Feeding Your Fish

    Start feeding your pond fish as soon as the temperature hits a steady 50 degrees. I recommend feeding a cold temperature feed until the temperature rises to 60 degrees. After reaching a normal temperature of 60 degrees and above, you can start with the regular feeding program for your pond fish.

    3. Remove Accumulated Debris

    During the winterization process, your pond accumulates debris and organic waste, including leaves, twigs, fish waste, and grass clippings. Even though the filtration system takes care of the debris, some waste turns into muck and sludge, which are a breeding ground for algae and cause water clarity issues. Therefore, I recommend spooning away the leaves, twigs, and other debris with a net.

    Deep cleaning involves draining the pond and washing the surface and rocks. This is more of a common routine in ponds that have gravel. Personally, I prefer bare bottom systems for Koi tanks. On a high end install, a bottom drain and bare bottom mitigates the need to drain clean the pond.

    During the cleaning process, you can transfer your fish and aquatic plants in a large tub with proper aeration to avoid inconvenience. As soon as your pond is free of debris and scum, refill it with water and return the fish, plants back.

    Fertilizing the aquatic plants

    When you put the plants back in the water, don’t forget to fertilize them according to their recommended dosage and needs, i.e., full fertilizing for new plants and maintenance fertilizing for the existing ones.

    Adding (nitrifying) beneficial bacteria and cleaning the filters

    It is imperative to clean the filters to remove accumulated sediments. Also, to keep your ponds properly maintained, add beneficial bacteria for bacterial colony stimulation.

    Summer

    The most favorable season for your water garden to thrive is summer.

    Summer season begins when the water hits up to 80 degrees and higher. Your fish should be fed generously during this time. However, there are a few things that should be taken into consideration while maintaining ponds in summer.

    Stock your pond water with Minnows or other small fish

    The reason I emphasize adding Minnows in ponds is mosquitoes.

    Mosquitoes can ruin the summer vacations that you’ve been longing for. Therefore, it is recommended to stock your pond with Minnows or other small fish to control the mosquito population. Also, consider larvicides and proper aeration to eliminate potential big problems.

    Keep your water source free of grass clippings and other debris

    Algae blooms happen the most in summers. Therefore, keep grass clippings, fish waste, and other accumulated debris out of the pond water.

    Install aeration system

    An effective and cost-efficient aeration system help maintain your pond and keep it clean throughout the year. It also increases oxygen supply by keeping the cooler water on the bottom of the pond, keeping the aquatic life healthy and happy all year long.

    Fall

    Fall Pond Maintenance

    Fall is the season when you need to put extra effort into your pond because it prepares you mentally and physically for the worst season of a garden pond, i.e., winter.

    Winter puts most of the life to sleep and therefore, it is recommended to remove the things that winters can damage, including the pond filters, pumps, aerators, and fallible plants. If there are fish in your garden ponds during winter, you can install the pond equipment momentarily to de-ice the water.

    Here are some things you can do to maintain your water garden during fall.

    Install leaf netting

    Fall means lots of leaf shedding, and the accumulated leaves are just unwanted debris for your pond.

    Therefore, it’s important to install lead netting to prevent the leaves from falling into the pond. Also, I recommend trimming and pruning the dead foliage of your aquatic plants just above the soil.

    Clean excess debris

    Accumulated leaves and fish waste affects your pond’s oxygen level and stresses the aquatic life. Therefore, always clean and remove excess debris using a hand net. If the accumulated debris is hard to reach, I recommend using a pond vacuum.

    Switch to fall-friendly Fish food

    It’s best if you switch your fish to the fall-friendly pond fish food that easily digests in cooler temperatures and sustains your fish in the dormancy period.

    When the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, I recommend Wheatgerm food three times a week, that too, only if your fish consume it in a 5 minute period. However, when the temperatures fall below 40 degrees, stop feeding your fish until spring time.

    Install de-icer and proper aeration kit

    In freezing temperatures, de-icing prevents harmful gases to accumulate under the ice and maintains healthy oxygen levels. De-icers allow oxygen levels to remain healthy and saturated in the pond by keeping a hole open in the ice.

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    Therefore, de-icers and aeration kits are a must-have for your pond during fall and winter.

    Winter

    Winter is the season that adversely affects your pond fish and clearly, it’s the worst season for your water gardens.

    In such hard times, only two tips keep the pond game going. The first and foremost tip is to stop feeding your aquatic life once the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. The second life-saving tip is to install a floating pond de-icer to allow toxic gases from organic decomposition to escape without causing any harm to your pond. De-icers are vital for maintaining your pond in winter because breaking the ice would potentially kill the pond fish.

    Here are some other tips you can follow for winter pond maintenance.

    Prepare Submersible Pond Pumps

    First of all, check the submersible pond pumps if they are in good working condition.

    The pond pump should not be lower than 1 foot. this ensures the circulation of surface water solely throughout the garden pond. The pond pump also helps in marinating warmer temperatures at the bottom of the pond where the pond fish hibernates1.

    I recommend running the submersible pump continuously until the temperature drops to 10 C or 50 F

    Reduced fish feeding

    Like I said before, reduced feeding does wonder as it doesn’t allow debris and waste to accumulate at the bottom of the tank. Also, during winters, fancy goldfish should be kept indoors for their survival and distribution of food.

    Reduce the feeding when the water drops down to 44 F to 50 F as fish can only digest low protein foods, such as wheat germ. As soon the water drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the fish start to hibernate and so you will need to stop feeding your fish entirely.

    Therefore, it is recommended to monitor the pond water temperature so you know when to stop feeding the fish.

    Protect Aquatic Plants

    Aquatic plants such as pond lilies cannot tolerate harsh weather during winter. Therefore, some preventive measures should be taken for their protection.

    1. It’s recommended to remove Canna lilies from your pond. You can replant them in the green house instead for protection.
    2. In the case of small ponds, be sure to cut the heads of any marsh reeds before they shed their seeds in the pond.
    3. Install biological filters in your pond to keep the fish healthy during winter.

    Floating ball to prevent freezing

    One low cost way to maintain a pond during winter is to use the floating ball. The floating ball prevents pond freezing and maintains the gaseous exchange by movement.

    Floating Ball In Pond

    However, in some areas where the weather is extremely cold and dry, it may be best that you install an inline pond heater to maintain a desirable temperature for the pond. Nevertheless, an inline heater is a costly option. Some Koi Fish enthusiasts will move their prize winning fish indoors for the season to a holding tank. This is another good option in extreme winter climates.

    FAQs

    How do you maintain?

    Maintaining a pond might sound baffling at first, but as soon as you get the hold of it, things turn out pretty good.

    Here are some essential steps to maintain a garden pond during all seasons.

    1. Pond aerator
    2. Manually clean the debris and pond waste
    3. Monitor water temperature and pH balance
    4. Avoid overcrowding the pond
    5. Add beneficial bacteria
    6. Use aquatic plants to naturally maintain the oxygen levels of your pond

    Are ponds a lot of maintenance?

    I would say, yes! Ponds need regular maintenance and upkeep weekly or monthly. The maintenance of your pond depends on the size, as smaller ponds are more prone to fluctuation in ecology and hence need regular cleaning to prevent debris and waste accumulation.

    Large ponds need weekly or monthly maintenance, and at the beginning or end of the growing season.

    How do you maintain water quality in a pond?

    Maintaining water quality in a pond is not rocket science. You just need to follow the following tips to successfully maintain the water quality.

    1. Examine oxygen levels to avoid algae blooms
    2. Avoid overfeeding your fish to prevent waste accumulation
    3. Add a proper and healthy balance of aquatic plants
    4. Choose the right size of pond pump
    5. Keep your pond cool during summer
    6. Clean the debris before it starts to decay

    How do I keep my natural pondsclean and clear?

    The natural pond remains clean and clear if you target the root cause of the problem with a sustainable approach.

    Natural pond products will transform your pond’s ecosystem, ultimately lowering your costs most effectively. I’m sharing some of the simple, easy, and natural steps to maintain your garden ponds.

    1. Use algaecide or herbicide to control algae blooms
    2. Control the accumulation of excess nutrients by using natural, beneficial bacteria and enzymes
    3. Add aeration methods to treat several pond problems
    4. Manage the amount of vegetation entering your pond
    5. Maintenance is the key to naturally healthy, clean, and clear ponds

    Final Thoughts

    Garden ponds not only make everything look beautiful in your home interiors, but they also turn your home more earth-friendly. Therefore, it’s crucial to keep your ponds clean, healthy, and properly maintained throughout the year.

    I’ve given you some great tips on how to keep your garden ponds clean, healthy, and properly maintained. If you have any other helpful pond maintenance tips that we haven’t covered here today, please share them in the comments below!