Author: Mark Valderrama

  • What Are Bloodworms? Everything Fishkeepers Need to Know

    What Are Bloodworms? Everything Fishkeepers Need to Know

    Bloodworms are a staple in my fish room. I keep frozen bloodworms on hand for virtually every tank I run. They trigger feeding responses in fish that won’t always take dry food readily, and they’re especially useful for getting picky eaters or newly acquired fish eating. Despite the name, they’re actually midge larvae (Chironomus), not true worms, and the red color comes from hemoglobin. One thing worth knowing: some people develop allergies to bloodworms after repeated exposure, particularly to live or freeze-dried versions. Frozen is generally the safest form for both the fish and the keeper.

    Key Takeaways

    • Feed fresh and saltwater fish bloodworms as a tasty treat
    • freshwater bloodworms are small creatures used as fish food but marine bloodworms are more popular for fishing bait.
    • Use frozen and freeze-dried bloodworms as a supplement but not a primary food source for your fish
    • Wear gloves if you’re going to be handling bloodworms a lot because some people are allergic. It’s a good idea to wash your hands too!
    • Adding live bloodworms to your tank has the small risk of introducing parasites and other unwanted organisms

    So What Are Blood Worms?

    There are different creatures called bloodworms and this can be confusing for newcomers to the fishkeeping hobby.

    Aquarium bloodworms are the baby (larval) stage of small mosquito like flies called midges. These tiny worms are called bloodworms because they are red, not because they drink blood! Aquarium bloodworms are less than half an inch long.

    Much larger worms dwell along sandy and muddy shores in marine environments and they are also called bloodworms. These huge worms are the ultimate fish bait and most saltwater fish go crazy for them!

    Marine bloodworms aren’t used a lot in the aquarium hobby though, so we’ll be talking about the small freshwater midge larvae from now on.

    So why are they red?

    Bloodworms get their bright red color from the hemoglobin in their body – that’s the same stuff that makes our blood red by the way. Vertebrate animals like mammals, birds, reptiles, and frogs all have red blood, but its actually pretty unusual for an invertebrate.

    Are you wondering why their blood is red? Well, these worms live in a world with low oxygen (anoxic environment) and the hemoglobin helps them breathe!

    Life Cycle

    Bloodworms and midge flies have a pretty complicated life cycle and the worm we feed or fish is just one of them! Read on to learn more about each stage of their biology.

    Adult

    Midges are tiny flying insects that you might see swarming around near lakes and ponds. These guys are harmless except for being a little annoying when they fly around lights at night. Midges might look like mosquitos but they are actually vegetarians.

    Midge Fly

    The midge fly has a very short lifespan of just a few days. In this stage they must mate and find some freshwater to lay their eggs.

    Eggs

    The adult flies lay their eggs on the water’s surface in a gelatinous mass. These tiny eggs sink to the bottom and hatch after a just few days.

    Larvae

    Group of Bloodworms

    The newly hatched larvae feed on organic material in the water and live in tubes of fine sediment or burrow into the substrate. These larvae are the bloodworms that we feed our fish, and they become redder as they grow.

    Pupae

    Bloodworms live for several weeks, depending on the water temperature, and eventually change (metamorphose) into pupae. These pupae move up to the water surface and pupate into adult midge flies, ready to start their life cycle all over again!

    Where do they live?

    Blood worms are extremely common creatures in pretty much any freshwater environment. You can find them in freshwater ponds, rivers, lakes, and even gutters and buckets of rainwater. They can also live in very damp environments like wet soil.

    Where can you get them?

    You can purchase bloodworms online or from just about any fish-keeping store and many general pet stores too. Bloodworms are available in various forms, including frozen or freeze-dried packs. These worms are produced at a bloodworm farm.

    Frozen Bloodworms
    Frozen Bloodworms

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    Live bloodworms are harder to find but speak to your local fish store or other aquarists in your area to find out if anyone is breeding them. You can also breed your own bloodworms, and we’ll cover that topic a little later in this article.

    What are they used for?

    Bloodworms are used as a supplementary diet for freshwater fish. There’s a lot of contradictory information out there about whether you should feed your fish bloodworms or not, and this article isn’t going to tell you what you should and shouldn’t feed your fish. Instead, we’ll cover the basic facts you need to know to make an informed decision.

    Bloodworms are an important natural food source for a huge variety of freshwater fish and other aquatic animals out in nature, so there’s no doubt that fish love bloodworms! These tiny creatures are a very important part of the aquatic food chain.

    Let’s take a look at some of the benefits of this natural food source:

    Benefits

    Bloodworms are a great food source for carnivorous and omnivorous fish. They are excellent for conditioning fish and can really bring out their colors. Bloodworms provide a natural, unprocessed food source, just like what your fish eat out in the wild, and fish just love hunting live bloodworms in their tank!

    Nutritional Information

    Bloodworms provide an iron-rich food source, but they contain loads of other important minerals and vitamins too, including essential amino acids, vitamins, and minerals. Bloodworms have the following approximate nutritional values from Omega One’s frozen blood worms package:

    • Protein: 8%
    • Fat: 1%
    • Fiber: 3-4%
    • Moisture: 82%

    In contrast, freeze-dried bloodworms have more nutritional value. See Omega’s freeze-dried product below:

    • Protein: 40%
    • Fat: 3%
    • Fiber: 5%
    • Moisture: 7%
    Omega One Freeze Fried Blood Worms
    Omega One Freeze Fried Blood Worms

    A great freeze dried product or tropical fish. Easy to supplement with vitamins

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    Cons

    Unfortunately, there are some downsides to feeding bloodworms too. Consider these facts before you feed bloodworms to your fish.

    Frozen and freeze-dried bloodworms are great as a supplementary food source or an occasional treat, but they do not provide the complete nutrition of carefully formulated commercial-dried foods. You should not feed bloodworms every day as this may cause health problems like constipation.

    Some people suffer from bloodworm allergies, especially those who feed them on a regular basis. Fish keepers report hypersensitivity to both frozen and freeze-dried bloodworms1.

    Exposure to these creatures can cause skin irritation, asthma, and other unpleasant side effects. Use gloves and wash your hands after working with this food source if you think you might be allergic. You should also avoid inhaling the dust of freeze-dried bloodworms to avoid these issues.

    Which Fish Eat Them?

    Pretty much every popular aquarium fish will eat bloodworms! The only species that won’t eat bloodworms are true vegetarians like otocinclus catfish. Here are a few examples of aquarium fish that love bloodworms:

    Types

    There are an estimated 20,000 midge species in the world and over 800 in North America alone, so there are a whole lot of different bloodworm types out there! What’s more important to us aquarists is the form they are in before we use them as fish food.

    Let’s take a look at the best options for feeding your fish bloodworms.

    Frozen

    Frozen bloodworms are the best choice for many aquarists because they provide a good compromise between convenience and quality.

    Unlike live bloodworms, frozen bloodworms lose some of their nutrients because they expand and burst their cell walls. However, the major producers of bloodworms feed a highly nutritious diet before freezing to increase their nutrient levels, so they are still full of goodness for your fishy friends.

    You can buy frozen bloodworm cubes in various sizes, and they are very easy to feed in your fish tank. Simply drop a cube into your tank and watch the fish enjoy this tasty treat as it quickly thaws.

    However, there are many frozen bloodworms in a single cube, and sometimes you may need to split up a cube before adding it if you have just a few fish.

    Another popular way of feeding frozen bloodworms is to thaw them out in a glass of tank water. You can then suck them up in a turkey baster and add them to your fish tank. The benefit of this method is that you can feed your fish directly and make sure each pet fish gets his or her fair share!

    Dried

    Freeze-dried bloodworms are the most convenient form of prepared bloodworms (and as we saw the most nutritious from the analysis earlier. They are super easy to use because you don’t need to thaw them, and you can control the amount you provide much easier.

    Freeze-dried bloodworms also have the benefit of being cheaper than frozen worms, and they keep for much longer if you keep them cool and dry.

    Some aquarists prefer to soak their freeze-dried bloodworm in water to soften them up. You can do this by adding them to a little tank water for a minute or so and then pouring it into your fish tank. You can enhance their value even further with vitamin dosing using an additive like Vita-Chem.

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    Live

    If you gave your fish the option they would choose live bloodworms all day long. Live is the ultimate choice because the worms still contain all their nutrients and fish love hunting the wriggling worms.

    One of the benefits of live worms is that you always know they are fresh. If you got them from a trusted source or raised them yourself then you’ll also know they don’t contain any toxic chemicals or nasty pesticides.

    Adding any live creature to your tank comes with a small risk of introducing unwanted pests and diseases though, so think carefully first.

    You can feed your fish live bloodworms by sucking them up in a turkey baster and then squeezing them out right in front of your fish. They will love it!

    Raising Bloodworms

    It is possible to grow your own bloodworms, and this may be your best option if you can’t source live bloodworms. However, growing live bloodworms takes a little more work, so this is not the easiest way to feed your aquarium fish. I supplied a video from Betta Guppy HAUS showing how to culture bloodworms. I’ll go into more detail below.

    Let’s take a look at the basic steps.

    • Create a habitat

    The simplest way of growing live bloodworms is to collect rainwater in a bucket and leave it out in the yard. Dust from the air, algae, and a few decaying leaves will create a natural food source for the bloodworms.

    A clean white bucket is ideal because you will be able to see the bloodworms and their tunnels much easier. Make sure your container has not been used to store any dangerous chemicals that could harm the worms or your fish.

    • Give it time

    You don’t need to buy bloodworm eggs to rear live worms for your fish. Adult midges will find the water and lay their gelatinous egg sacs all on their own! It could take just a few days or a week for the eggs to hatch, so check back regularly.

    • Harvesting

    Harvesting fresh bloodworms is much easier in clear water. Simply grab a turkey baster and suck them up one by one. Mosquito larvae, daphnia, and cyclops are all great food sources that you might find in your bucket but avoid sucking up other creatures that could be harmful in your fish tank.

    • Cleaning

    Once you have enough bloodworms, simply squeeze them out into a fine net like a brine shrimp net and run water through them to wash off any dirt. You can then put them in some tank water, and suck them back into your turkey baster to feed to your fish.

    You can feed them live or freeze them yourself, which could have the benefit of killing other unwanted organisms and parasites.

    Other Live & Frozen fish foods

    Bloodworms are one of the most popular live/frozen fish foods, but they are not the only natural food source for freshwater and saltwater fish. Let’s check out a few other great options.

    • Brine shrimp

    Pretty much any fish that eats bloodworms will love eating frozen or live brine shrimp too! These tiny crustaceans are available freeze-dried or as frozen blocks. You can also hatch and rear them yourself, and this is an amazing food source for fish fry and smaller fish species.

    • Ghost shrimp

    Ghost shrimp are another great food source. Many medium size fish will happily eat them. For smaller fish, they can be good tankmates instead of food. Better functional shrimp and ornamental shrimp would include ones like cherry, and Amano shrimp.

    • Tubifex Worms

    These tiny aquatic creatures appear similar to live bloodworms but have a very different larvae life cycle and are browner in color. They are available as freeze-dried and frozen food and can be fed to any fish that enjoy bloodworms.

    FAQs

    Are bloodworms harmful to humans?

    The freeze-dried, live, or frozen bloodworms used in the aquarium hobby can cause allergies in some people, although they have been used by fishkeepers for many years, and most people have no problems.

    The worms used as fishing bait are much larger creatures that can give a painful bite if handled and that makes these bloodworms dangerous. When some bloodworms bite they inject a venom that can feel like a bee or wasp sting, so take care when handling these creatures!

    What do blood worms turn into?

    Bloodworms are the larval (baby) stage of midges, which are small, mosquito-like flies with fluffy feathery antennae. The adult midge fly does not bite or suck blood, although they do form swarms which can be a nuisance, especially around lights at night.

    What is the purpose of blood worms?

    Bloodworms are a vital component of a healthy aquatic ecosystem, and they provide a natural food source for fish and many other aquatic animals.

    They are popular in the aquarium hobby because they provide a healthy varied diet and they can be very important for picky eaters that refuse prepared dried foods.

    What do bloodworms eat?

    The tiny bloodworms we feed our aquarium fish eat algae and decomposing organic material in the freshwater environments where they live.

    However, the hefty marine bloodworms that are so popular as fish bait are true predators. Those creepy critters use unique copper fangs and a venomous bite to catch and kill smaller creatures like worms and crustaceans.

    What are bloodworms good for?

    Bloodworms provide a tasty supplement to regular dried fish food. They are great for conditioning fish before breeding and for feeding picky fish that refuse flakes and pellets.

    Is it OK to touch bloodworms?

    Most people suffer no serious reactions after handling bloodworms, but some are allergic to these tiny creatures.

    The cause of bloodworm allergies aren’t very obvious but they seem to get worse over long periods of time. Even if you don’t show any symptoms at first, the safest route is to use caution and wear gloves or wash your hands thoroughly after handling them.

    Do bloodworms live in humans?

    Bloodworms live in freshwater and they can’t survive inside our bodies. These wiggly worms are not parasites but they do have a kind of creepy name! Bloodworms eat detritus, rotten plant material and algae down at the bottom of lakes and other freshwater bodies.

    Final Thoughts

    Live, freeze dried or frozen bloodworms are an excellent fish food if you limit your fish to helping every once in a while. These worms are packed with iron and protein and fish go crazy for them. Feeding bloodworms is easy too, just make sure you keep them fresh and avoid touching them with your bare skin just in case.

    Do you feed your fish bloodworms? Let us know if you prefer frozen, freeze-dried or live bloodworms in the comments below!

    References

  • Bamboo Shrimp Care Guide: The Filter-Feeding Shrimp That’s Worth Watching

    Bamboo Shrimp Care Guide: The Filter-Feeding Shrimp That’s Worth Watching

    Bamboo Shrimp are filter feeders, not scavengers. They need current and suspended food particles to survive. If your shrimp is walking the substrate picking at food, it is starving.

    A bamboo shrimp walking the bottom is not getting enough food. Fix the flow.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Bamboo Shrimp

    A shrimp tank is a constant show of activity. Shrimp graze nonstop, picking at every surface with their tiny legs. They crawl over plants, substrate, and even each other. The movement never stops.

    Molting is both fascinating and nerve-wracking. You will find translucent shed exoskeletons and panic thinking a shrimp died. It did not. But failed molts, where a shrimp gets stuck in its old shell, are always a risk.

    Berried females carrying eggs under their tails are a highlight. You watch the eggs develop over two to three weeks, then suddenly dozens of tiny baby shrimp appear on your moss and plants.

    Shrimp are escape artists during water changes. They jump into buckets, climb up siphon tubes, and end up in places you never expected. Always check your equipment and waste water for hitchhikers.

    Table of Contents

    The Bamboo Shrimp is one of the most rewarding invertebrates in the hobby, but it is also one of the most sensitive. Water parameters matter more here than with almost any fish. After keeping shrimp colonies for years, I have learned exactly what makes or breaks a thriving colony.

    One parameter swing and an entire colony dies overnight. That is the reality of keeping Bamboo Shrimp.

    A Bamboo Shrimp colony demands stable parameters every single day. One slip and you start over. This is a commitment to precision, not just maintenance.

    Shrimp keeping is the most humbling branch of the aquarium hobby. The water does not care about your experience level.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Bamboo Shrimp

    Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

    Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Bamboo Shrimp without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Bamboo Shrimp are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Keeping Bamboo Shrimp

    Water parameters rule everything. Shrimp are more sensitive to water chemistry than any fish in your tank. Ammonia, nitrite, and sudden pH swings kill shrimp instantly. A cycled, stable tank is absolutely mandatory before adding your first shrimp.

    Copper is lethal. Many fish medications contain copper. Even trace amounts from pipes, fertilizers, or treatments will wipe out an entire shrimp colony. Read every label before adding anything to a shrimp tank.

    Molting problems are the most common killer. Shrimp need consistent mineral content to molt successfully. Unstable GH and KH levels cause failed molts, which are fatal. Remineralized RO water gives you the most control.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Adding shrimp to an uncycled tank or a tank that was recently medicated. Both scenarios kill shrimp within days. The tank needs to be fully cycled and medication-free for at least two weeks before shrimp go in.

    Expert Take

    Drip acclimation is not a suggestion. It is mandatory. Every shrimp I have lost in 25 years died because I rushed the acclimation or ignored a parameter difference.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are bamboo shrimp hard to keep?

    Bamboo shrimp are moderate in difficulty. The main challenge is ensuring they get enough food, since they are filter feeders that catch fine particles from the water column. A tank with good flow and regular feeding of powdered foods or crushed flakes is essential for their survival.

    Why is my bamboo shrimp picking at the substrate?

    When a bamboo shrimp is picking at the substrate instead of fan feeding in the current, it means there is not enough food in the water column. This is a sign of hunger and stress. Try increasing your feeding of finely crushed foods or adding a dedicated liquid invertebrate food.

    How big do bamboo shrimp get?

    Bamboo shrimp can reach 3 to 4 inches in length, making them one of the largest freshwater shrimp commonly kept in aquariums. Their size and unique fan-feeding behavior make them an impressive display animal in planted community tanks.

    Can bamboo shrimp live with bettas?

    Bamboo shrimp can coexist with bettas in tanks of 20 gallons or larger. Their large size makes them unlikely targets for betta aggression. However, both species prefer different flow levels: bamboo shrimp need moderate current for feeding, while bettas prefer calmer water.

    How long do bamboo shrimp live?

    With proper care and consistent feeding, bamboo shrimp can live 4 to 6 years in captivity. They molt regularly as they grow, and providing calcium-rich water helps ensure healthy exoskeleton development. Poor nutrition is the most common cause of premature death.

    Key Takeaways

    • Bamboo shrimp are an interesting freshwater species of filter-feeding shrimp.
    • These shrimp have simple aquarium requirements but is sensitive when being transported.
    • Bamboo shrimp are very difficult to breed in captivity and have a short lifespan. They are reasonably more expensive than most other species available.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameAtyopsis moluccensis
    Common NamesBamboo shrimp, wood shrimp, Moluccas shrimp, Singapore flower shrimp, Singapore shrimp
    FamilyAtyidae
    OriginNative to Southeast Asia
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan1 to 3 years
    TemperamentPeaceful fish 
    Tank LevelMiddle and bottom
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallons
    Temperature Range68. 85 °F
    Water Hardness3. 10 KH
    pH Range6.5. 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedVery difficul
    CompatibilityCommunity
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    PhylumArthropoda
    ClassMalacostraca
    OrderDecapoda
    FamilyAtyidae
    GenusAtyopsis
    SpeciesA. Moluccensis (De Haan, 1849)

    Introduction

    Many hobbyists adore saltwater aquariums for their bright and colorful fish. But have you ever seen a freshwater tank filled with vibrant and active shrimp? The freshwater hobby is filled with different shrimp species that are easy and rewarding to keep.

    One of the most popular species of freshwater shrimp to keep is the bamboo shrimp, also commonly known as the Singapore shrimp or wood shrimp. Scientifically, the bamboo shrimp is known as Atyopsis moluccensis. Unlike other popular species of freshwater shrimp, the bamboo shrimp is not a dwarf species in itself, though a dwarf relative has been discovered: Atyopsis spinipes1.

    Bamboo shrimp are great shrimp to keep in the freshwater aquarium. They get along with almost every fish, are relatively hardy, and help keep the tank clean. They aren’t the most colorful species of freshwater shrimp available, though, which can make experienced keepers look past them.

    Origin

    It is hard to believe, but bamboo shrimp originate from areas where bamboo naturally grows. This is largely throughout Southeast Asia, including parts of Thailand, Indonesia, Sri Lanka, and the Philippines.

    There, these shrimp feed on plant and animal particles in the water column as well as in the substrate. Interestingly this is an Asian filter-feeding shrimp. This means that these shrimp have specially adapted claspers with a feathery, fan-like appearance. This allows them to stand in a moderate to strong water current with their fans pointed outwards to catch anything that passes by.

    Because they’re filter feeders, they are found in a warm, fast-moving natural habitat that is full of debris and other organic material.

    Appearance

    Bamboo shrimp aka flower shrimp aren’t the most colorful shrimp. There’s a reason why they’re also known as wood shrimp.

    Bamboo Shrimp on Driftwood

    Bamboo shrimp are one of the largest freshwater aquarium shrimp available, growing to about 2 to 4 inches. They are bulky shrimp with large, rounded bodies. As fan shrimp, they have two pairs of feathery arms that help them pull food particles out of the water.

    These shrimp are brownish-red but can become darker or lighter depending on available food and other environmental factors. Upon closer inspection, you can see many thin, dark pinstripes run along the sides of their body. Down the middle of their body is a thick off-white stripe that runs from their antennae to the base of their tails.

    Male vs. Female

    Bamboo shrimp are pretty costly. Considering that they only live for a couple of years, it is expensive to replace your colony so often. Because of this, many shrimp keepers try breeding bamboo shrimp, though we’ll find out that this is a challenge in itself.

    To breed bamboo shrimp, you need to have a male and female individual. These shrimp are easy to tell apart from each other, but only when they’re mature in size.

    Like other shrimp and crustaceans, you need to look at the abdomen of the shrimp. Female shrimp carry eggs in and around their pleopods, or swimming legs, underneath their abdomen, so this area needs to be big.

    In general, males are larger than females. Males also have bigger, thicker first walking legs. From above, male bamboo shrimp are slimmer and shorter than females. Females have wider and longer abdomens, as well as longer pleopods.

    Temperament and Behavior

    Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

    Bamboo shrimp are perfect tank mates for a community tank setup. Their larger size also makes them compatible with some of the bigger tropical fish species available as long as temperaments match.

    Despite their large size, they is shy with sudden movements and bright lights. It may take several weeks for a new shrimp to acclimate to its new home, so make sure to add plenty of hiding spots in the beginning.

    In general, this fan shrimp can safely be kept with all community fish species. They spend most of their time propped up on plant leaves or other aquarium decorations in the water current with their fans extended. If your fan shrimp is traveling to the bottom of the tank to look for food in the substrate, then this could indicate that there isn’t enough available food in the water column.

    While a healthy bamboo shrimp may still display this behavior, it’s strongly recommended to start offering more available foods that make feeding easier.

    Bamboo Shrimp Tank Mates

    Not too many hobbyists have a shrimp tank that only features bamboo shrimp. This shrimp species is often an afterthought to a community tank featuring other tropical fish and invertebrates. Luckily, they fit in with almost every tank mate combination!

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Bamboo shrimp are not territorial towards each other or other shrimp. That being said, there are a few limiting factors that can stop you from keeping multiple bamboo shrimp together.

    First, space can become an issue. Not for the reason you may think, though. Instead, bamboo shrimp are very efficient filter feeders that can clean available food particles out of the water column within a few days. This can lead to a shortage of food when there is too much competition.

    Second, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. Though they’re not aggressive, they can add additional bioload to the aquarium that can add up over time.

    In general, as long as your shrimp are easily able to find food and have good filtration, then you can keep as many as you would like together.

    Best Tank Mates For Them

    But what other shrimp and fish can you keep with your bamboo shrimp? Almost everything!

    The good news is that bamboo shrimp are large freshwater shrimp. Most tropical fish have small mouths, which takes bamboo shrimp off the menu. This makes bamboo shrimp a great choice for a betta tank, though you will need to create some areas of higher flow in the aquarium that your betta might not appreciate!

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    These shrimp keep to themselves in the aquarium and won’t bother other peaceful fish. Because they perch on live plants and other decorations, they also stay out of the way of bottomfeeders and other active species. Some of the best tank mates for bamboo shrimp are:

    Can They Live With Other Shrimp?

    Yes! Bamboo shrimp can live with other freshwater shrimp, specifically dwarf shrimp species. Because these shrimp aren’t the most colorful on their own, many hobbyists keep them with cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) and vampire shrimp (Atya gabonensis). Other less colorful tank mates include Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata) and ghost shrimp (Palaemonetes paludosus).

    Least Compatible Fish For Them

    Although large shrimp, bamboo shrimp are still an appetizing choice for fish with large mouths. Fish that should be avoid are:

    It should also be noted that bamboo shrimp should not be kept with crayfish, like the Mexican dwarf crayfish (Cambarellus patzcuarensis). Even though these two invertebrates might look similar to one another, the crayfish will gladly eat your shrimp.

    Care

    Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

    Bamboo shrimp care is easy, but there are a few ways you can guarantee the success of your shrimp. These shrimp only live a couple of years on average, so you want to make the most of it! They are also much more expensive than other shrimp in the aquarium trade.

    Are They Hard To Keep?

    Bamboo shrimp aren’t one of the hardiest shrimp varieties available. They are susceptible to incorrect or fluctuating water parameters, which can make transferring them between different freshwater aquariums difficult. Your shrimp is most likely to die within the first few days of having it in your tank.

    To prevent this from happening, it’s strongly recommended to use a quarantine system that gives full control over tank conditions. Purchase from a reputable seller that keeps juvenile shrimp so that you get the most time with your new invertebrate.

    Is the Bamboo Shrimp Right for You?

    Before you buy a Bamboo Shrimp, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.

    • Experience level: Bamboo Shrimp are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
    • Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
    • Temperament considerations: Bamboo Shrimp is territorial or aggressive. You need to plan tank mates carefully and provide enough space and cover to reduce conflict. They are not a good fit for peaceful community tanks with small, shy fish.
    • Feeding requirements: Bamboo Shrimp are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
    • Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
    • Water type: This is a saltwater species. You need a fully cycled marine setup with proper salinity, filtration, and water chemistry. Saltwater tanks are more expensive and demanding than freshwater, so factor that into your decision.
    • Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.

    Tank Requirements

    The best bamboo shrimp care will stem from a good aquarium setup. These shrimp need a mature aquarium where they can feed on the fine particles and microorganisms already present in the water column.

    A new tank setup is too clean and will need to be heavily fed to sustain your shrimp.

    Tank Size

    You’ve most likely seen a small tank filled with cherry shrimp at your local fish store. Since bamboo shrimp are similar to other shrimp species, does this mean that they is kept in a small tank too?

    No. Bamboo shrimp prefer a larger tank setup for a few reasons.

    First, bamboo shrimp are large shrimp. While they don’t move around the tank much, they create significantly more bioload than small shrimp. They may also struggle to be present in the tank if there are too many other shrimp occupying the space.

    Another reason why bamboo shrimp need a larger tank is that they heavily depend on their natural habitat for food. These shrimp need plenty of available food in the water column for their success. A small tank has much less available food, which can cause your shrimp to quickly run out of things to eat.

    How Many Can You Put In A 55 Gallon Tank?

    There are a lot of factors that go into determining how many bamboo shrimp you can have in your tank. In theory, a 55 gallon could hold a lot of shrimp! But this probably isn’t the best option.

    Consider how much natural food is available in your aquarium. Is there a constant supply of plant debris? How often do you feed your fish? Are your shrimp competing for the same food as other fish or invertebrates?

    There are some questions you should be asking yourself before you introduce multiple bamboo shrimp into your aquarium. That being said, it’s recommended to keep 1 bamboo shrimp per every 20 gallons of water. This would mean that about 2 to 3 bamboo shrimp could comfortably be kept in a 55 gallon aquarium.

    Setup

    Aquarium setup doesn’t matter too much when keeping bamboo shrimp as they’ll find their niche within the system. However, there are a few ways you can optimize your shrimp’s way of living.

    One of the most important aspects of keeping bamboo shrimp is making sure that there is some water current moving throughout the aquarium. These shrimp come from naturally fast-moving waters where they stand in the current to filter food. Experienced keepers use their filter return or a powerhead to create a stream of water current specifically for their shrimp.

    A powerhead pairs well with a sponge filter. This combination allows for water flow as well as a bioload station for bamboo shrimp to pick at if they don’t feel like catching their food.

    Otherwise, bamboo shrimp do not need any special aquarium setup. I prefer to dim their lighting or use tannins to create a more comfortable environment for these shy shrimp.

    Decor

    Bamboo shrimp do best in a heavily planted aquarium where there are plenty of organics available in the water. This is a high or low tech setup with varying lighting intensities; as mentioned before, bamboo shrimp are more present in dimmer lighting.

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    These shrimp will appreciate natural decor in the form of driftwood, smooth rocks, and leaf litter. However, they can also be kept in more artificial setups as well.

    Substrate

    The type of substrate you keep your bamboo shrimp on doesn’t matter too much. These shrimp stay off the substrate, staying perched on driftwood and aquarium plants.

    For the most natural tank setup, a light or dark brown substrate is recommended.

    Live Plants

    Bamboo shrimp will greatly appreciate an assortment of live plants. These shrimp will make their home in dense vegetation, catching any food that happens to pass by. Plant matter will also enter the water column, providing additional food for your shrimp.

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    These do not need to be difficult plant species as the coverage will be appreciated nonetheless. Some of the best plant species include:

    A densely planted aquarium might require dosing plant fertilizers if not enough nutrients are readily available for growth.

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    Water Quality And Filtration

    Want easy, forgiving shrimp? Start with cherry shrimp. Want a challenge with stunning payoff? Get crystal reds and commit to RO water.

    Bamboo shrimp are relatively hardy shrimp but they still require mature tank conditions. Good filtration and water circulation are necessary for keeping a happy and healthy bamboo shrimp.

    Filtration & Aeration

    As mentioned before, bamboo shrimp will do best with a sponge filter in combination with a powerhead. This creates an area for grazing around the filter while also making a current that your shrimp can stand in.

    For larger tanks, a hang on the back filter or canister filter is recommended for better filtration and water movement. A powerhead may still be necessary to create areas of higher flow for your shrimp.

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    An air stone is not necessary, though can help circulate water and nutrients.

    Water Parameters

    Bamboo shrimp are sensitive to imperfect water parameters. They cannot tolerate any traces of ammonia or nitrite and start to have trouble when nitrates exceed 20 ppm. They is kept in a wide water temperature range between 68 and 85° F but prefer relatively neutral pH levels between 6.5 and 8.0.

    One of the more important water parameters to be aware of is calcium. Freshwater shrimp go through the molting process about every month and a half. This is when they shed their old exoskeleton to grow.

    To grow a new shell, they need plenty of calcium available in the water. While this is brought in through water changes and diet, bamboo shrimp may be given special shrimp calcium blocks from time to time.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Aquarium maintenance for bamboo shrimp is straightforward, especially in a mature tank where parameters are stable. In general, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly water change is recommended for a moderately stocked freshwater aquarium. Bamboo shrimp prefer slightly ‘dirtier’ conditions where food is available in the water column, so experienced keepers only do water changes every other week or once a month.

    When performing a water change, make sure to use an aquarium vacuum to remove any rotting food or plant matter.

    Testing Tank Conditions

    To ensure that your tank is always running the best that it can, regularly test your aquarium water with a dependable test kit. This test kit should use liquid reagants as testing strips are highly inaccurate.

    Calcium should also be tested with a test kit.

    Food And Diet

    While most shrimp is maintained through only the leftover fish food in the aquarium, bamboo shrimp require some special care and attention when it comes to their food and diet.

    Don’t worry, though! Bamboo shrimp feeding doesn’t require too much extra time.

    If you notice that your shrimp is searching around sponge filters or wandering around the substrate, there is a lack of food. At this point, it’s strongly recommended to supplement feedings.

    Powdered food, crushed fish food, broken-up algae wafers, and small live food may be given daily.

    Bamboo shrimp will not fix an algae problem, meaning that they won’t graze on available algae. Instead, they’ll help purify the water of any microscopic waste or organisms that could lead to an algae bloom.

    Breeding

    Breeding bamboo shrimp is rarely done in the aquarium hobby. Like Amano shrimp, bamboo shrimp need brackish water during their larval stages.

    To go about breeding bamboo shrimp, you need a male and a female. Once successfully bred, the fertilized eggs must be gently detached from the female and moved to brackish water conditions. From there, the fry may be fed spirulina powder until they mature.

    Where To Buy

    Bamboo shrimp are pretty expensive. Their sensitivity to stresses during transportation also makes them slightly difficult to come across at your average pet store. Because they’re difficult to breed in captivity, they also can’t be sourced from fellow hobbyists.

    Instead, these shrimp is purchased online or from more specialized retailers.

    Conclusion

    In conclusion, bamboo shrimp are one of the more forgotten species of shrimp available. These are filter feeding shrimp that need a good source of food in a mature aquarium setup. They are slightly sensitive to changes in environment and water conditions and have short lifespans.

    Still, they’re great invertebrates to have for controlling excess waste and potential algae blooms!

  • German Blue Ram Care Guide: The Most Beautiful Dwarf Cichlid (That’s Not for Beginners)

    German Blue Ram Care Guide: The Most Beautiful Dwarf Cichlid (That’s Not for Beginners)

    Table of Contents

    German Blue Rams are the most beautiful dwarf cichlid in freshwater fishkeeping. They are also one of the most frequently killed. Most people do not lose them because they got unlucky. They lose them because their tank was not stable enough, their water was not warm enough, or they added them too early. I have kept these fish on and off for over 20 years, and I still treat every new batch like a test of whether my tank is actually dialed in. If your setup is not rock solid, this fish will die. It is that simple.

    If you are willing to meet their demands, a pair of German Blue Rams in a well planted tank is one of the most stunning setups in the hobby. But if you cut corners, they will punish you for it. This guide is the honest version of GBR care. Not the watered down one you will find everywhere else.

    German Blue Rams do not tolerate mistakes. They expose them.

    If your tank cannot hold a steady 82 to 84 degrees with zero ammonia and minimal nitrates, you are not ready for this fish. That is not gatekeeping. That is just the reality of keeping a species this sensitive.

    The German Blue Ram is proof that beauty and difficulty are directly proportional in fishkeeping.

    German Blue Rams only live 2 to 4 years, but those years demand pristine water quality, consistent temperatures above 82F, and a level of attention most keepers are not ready to provide.

    No other freshwater fish packs this much color into this small a body. And no other fish punishes sloppy husbandry this fast.

    Why Most People Fail With German Blue Rams

    I have watched this play out dozens of times. Someone sets up a new tank, cycles it for a few weeks, and then adds a pair of German Blue Rams as their centerpiece fish. Within two weeks, one or both are dead. Here is why it keeps happening.

    They add them to tanks that are not mature enough. A cycled tank is not the same as a stable tank. GBRs need established biological filtration, stable pH, and a tank that has been running for at least two to three months with other fish in it. A brand new cycle with zero biofilm and fluctuating parameters will kill them. Not eventually. Within weeks..

    The temperature is too low. Most community fish do fine at 76 to 78 degrees. German Blue Rams need 82 to 84. That is not optional and it is not a range you can fudge. If your tank sits at 78, your rams will be sluggish, lose color, and start declining within days. And once a GBR starts going downhill, you rarely get them back..

    Water parameter swings kill them fast. A pH swing of even 0.5 in a short period will stress a GBR enough to trigger illness. They are not like hardy cichlids that bounce back from rough conditions. Once a German Blue Ram starts declining, you have a very small window to fix things before you lose the fish.

    They pick the wrong tank mates. Anything fast, aggressive, or nippy will stress GBRs into hiding. And a stressed ram is a dead ram. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and most mbuna are automatic disqualifiers. Stick with calm, slow moving species that occupy different levels of the tank.

    The Reality of Keeping German Blue Rams

    I am not going to sugarcoat this. German Blue Rams are one of the most demanding freshwater fish you can keep. They look incredible, but they are completely unforgiving if your setup is not right.

    They crash fast. A healthy GBR can go from vibrant and active to dead in 48 hours if something shifts in the tank. Ammonia spike, temperature drop, pH swing. Any of these triggers a decline that you cannot reverse once it starts. You do not get second chances with this fish. German Blue Rams are a precision fish. They reward perfection and punish everything else.

    The temperature requirement limits your tank mate options. At 82 to 84 degrees, you are ruling out a lot of common community fish that prefer cooler water. Cardinals, rummy noses, and sterbai corydoras work. Most other tetras and corydoras do not thrive at those temps long term.

    They look amazing when everything is right. A male GBR in full color in a heavily planted tank is one of the most beautiful things in freshwater fishkeeping. But that only happens when water quality is pristine, temperature is locked in, and stress is minimal. One off parameter and the colors fade within days.

    Biggest Mistake New German Blue Ram Owners Make

    They buy them too early. The fish looks incredible at the store, they impulse buy a pair, and they add them to a tank that has been running for three weeks. The rams are dead within ten days and the owner blames the fish. The fish was not the problem. The tank was not ready.

    Expert Take

    Never add German Blue Rams to a tank that has been running for less than three months. This is not a suggestion. This is the single rule that separates people who keep GBRs alive from people who keep buying replacements. A cycled tank is not the same as a mature tank. They need established biofilm, stable parameters, and a bacterial colony that can handle their sensitivity. This is the single most important piece of advice I can give you.

    Key Takeaways

    • German blue ram is named after a famous fish collector and importer from Germany known as Manuel Ramirez.
    • They have spiny rays in their anal, pelvic, pectoral, and dorsal fin to ward off their predators.
    • German blue ram loves digging up the substrate, so put hardy plants and floating plants in their aquarium
    • Electric blue ram is an open spawner; i.e., the wild German rams form a family group and lay around 200 eggs in their natural habitat.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameMikrogeophagus ramirezi
    Common NamesGerman blue ram, blue rams, electric blue rams, Butterfly cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginOrinoco River basin of South America in the Llanos of Venezuela and Colombia
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate to Difficult
    ActivityMedium
    Lifespan3 to 4 years 
    TemperamentPeaceful fish 
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range78.0 to 85.0° F
    Water Hardness6 – 14 dGH
    pH Range6.0 – 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer/Open spawner
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityLimited, Generally small fish with the same temperament 
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyGeophaginae
    GenusMikrogeophagus
    SpeciesM. ramirezi (Myers & Harry, 1948)

    Brief Introduction

    The German Blue Ram or Mikrogeophagus ramirezi goes by many names including, German Ram, Electric Blue Rams, Butterfly Cichlid, Golden Ram, Ramirez’s dwarf cichlid, Ramirezi, Ram cichlid, and Ram. The German blue rams are named after Manuel Ramirez1. one of the first collectors and importers of Ram cichlids in the aquarium trade.

    German blue ram is a peaceful fish that can easily be kept in community tanks, even with non-cichlid fish species with a similar temperament. For the record, these fish do not do well in an aggressive fish tank. 

    Origin & Habitat

    Opposed to their name, the German blue rams originated from the Orinoco River basin in Venezuela and Colombia. The reason they are called “German Blue” rams is that the blue variation of Ram cichlids was selectively bred in Germany and became popular from there. 

    Appearance

    The electric blue ram is a small, colorful fish with pointed fins and a tail. Their bodies are oval and the males develop more pointed dorsal fins than female German blue rams. 

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank

    Starting at their nose, there is a yellow coloration on their body that changes from whitish blue to blue in color. A black curved line runs from their forehead, through their eyes, and reaches down to the chin. Also, the middle part of the body is adorned with a black spot. They have pointed fins that are clear yellow in color with a black blotch. Female Electric blue rams have pinkish-red or orange bellies.

    Like all other cichlids, the German blue rams have a full set of pharyngeal teeth located in their throat. They also have spiny rays in their anal, pelvic, pectoral, and dorsal fin to ward off their predators. The front area of their fins is soft, allowing them to move precisely and effortlessly. 

    Unlike other fish, German blue rams have one nostril on each side of the nose. So, they sense smells in water by sucking in water and expelling it right after it’s sampled.

    What is the average adult size?

    The Electric blue ram is a small fish, reaching the average size of between 2-2.5 inches (5-6 cm) in length. 

    How long do they live?

    The average lifespan of German blue ram largely depends on their water conditions, diet, and overall care. Under normal circumstances, German blue rams live around 3 to 4 years, while some individuals may live up to 5 years.

    Food & Diet

    In their natural habitat, wild German blue rams feed on plant materials and small invertebrates. However, in captivity, they feed on a varied diet, including brine shrimp, bloodworms, white worms, chopped earthworms, cyclopeeze, live mosquito larvae, and artemia. You can also feed them flake food and pellets as occasional treats. 

    How often to feed them?

    you need to to feed two to five small amounts of food once or twice a day to keep the water quality optimal for longer periods.

    Temperament and Behavior

    Fish owners love German blue rams for their ever pleasing nature and beautiful aesthetics. And rightfully so, German blue rams thrive in community tanks even with their non-cichlid mates. However, they may seem aggressive; they are more “bark than bite”. 

    You can keep them alone, but you need to to keep them in pairs and avoid putting two males in an aquarium until your tank is exceptionally large.

    German Blue Ram Tank Mates

    Here are some great tank mates for a German blue ram cichlid tank:

    Complete Care Guide

    No matter how low maintenance German blue rams are, the key to keeping your fish happy lies in the water quality. German blue ram cichlids are prone to rapid breathing and illness due to mismatched water chemistry and quality. Therefore, meeting their tank requirements and maintaining the water quality is essential for the survival of German blue rams.

    Tank Requirements

    Here’s a complete breakdown of ideal tank requirements for the German blue ram cichlids.

    Tank Size

    Since they are small community aquarium fish, the recommended tank size is around 15 gallons.

    Live Plants

    Keeping live plants in a German blue ram aquarium sounds daunting because most aquatic plants cannot tolerate the warm water temperature. Therefore, it is essential to get plants that can survive the hot water. 

    Also, German blue rams love digging and so, they might hurt your aquatic plants. To cater to this, I suggest keeping plants like Java Ferns and mosses. You can also add floating plants, especially to the breeding tank to diffuse the lighting. Some great examples of live plants are:

    1. Java Fern
    2. Rosette plants (Amazon Sword, Vallisneria, Wisteria)
    3. Mosses
    4. Anubias
    5. Cryptocoryne
    6. Water sprite

    Make sure to leave free swimming space while placing plants in their aquarium and install a proper filtration system for their successful survival. 

    Tank Decorations

    German blue Rams love a well decorated tank. And even though they thrive in a community aquarium, sometimes, they might need to find a safe, comfortable place to hide. Therefore, aquarium decorations should be provided with caution.

    You can equip their tank with driftwood, flowerpots, dense plant clusters, caves, and rocks to mimic their natural habitat and keep them happy.

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    Make sure all the decorations are the aquarium and fish-friendly with no sharp edges to create a healthy and stimulating environment.

    Substrate

    A substrate of fine sand mixed with gravel and granite pebbles works best for a German blue ram tank. That’s because sand mixed with gravel allows your fish to sift through it, which is a natural behavior for them in the wild.

    Additionally, you can go for plant substrate or bare bottom as per your preferences and tank requirements.

    Note: Make sure your substrate does not leech into the water and change the pH. Avoid using sand for marine tanks

    Is the German Blue Ram Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • One of the most beautiful freshwater fish alive. A healthy, fully colored German blue ram is genuinely stunning. the iridescent blue and gold are unmatched.
    • Not for beginners. I can’t emphasize this enough. If you haven’t successfully kept other sensitive fish, you’re not ready for this one.
    • Temperature is non-negotiable. 82-84°F minimum. This limits your tank mate options to species that also thrive in warm water.
    • Perfect for warm, soft-water planted tanks. If you already run a planted tank with CO2 and acidic water, German blue rams feel right at home.
    • Buy from reputable breeders, not chain stores. Locally bred rams from a quality breeder are significantly hardier than mass-produced imports.
    • Short lifespan even with perfect care. 2-3 years is typical, which feels short given the effort required to keep them healthy.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Maintaining Oxygen levels and water quality leads to a happy, healthy tank with a thriving German blue ram. 

    German blue ram, like any other fish loves a clean and clear environment with low nitrates, ammonia, and zero nitrites. Therefore, a filter that can handle all these toxins and the size of your aquarium is much needed. 

    I recommend getting a canister filter for a larger tank. However, for a 10-gallon tank, a hang-on filter works wonders. I also suggest installing a filter with a biological filtration system to break down harmful chemicals and waste substances in the water effortlessly.

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    For aeration, you need to to provide an air stone or bubble wand to create the flow of bubbles. To save yourself money and time, you can get a filter integrated with an air pump to help aerate the water besides filtering. 

    Water Parameters

    The ideal water parameters for German blue Ram are:

    • Recommended temperature range: 78.0 to 85.0° F 
    • Breeding Temperature:– 77 – 82.4° F 
    • Ideal pH range: 6.0-7.5
    • Water Hardness Range:6 – 14 dGH

    Aquarium Care

    I recommend performing water changes of 10% to 20% at least biweekly, depending on the number of fish and tank size. German blue ram is super sensitive to certain chemicals and changes in their environment to the point of their sudden demise. 

    Also, they are prone to fish tuberculosis or Piscine. Therefore, aquarium maintenance is the key to keeping them healthy and happy. I also advise cleaning and sanitizing their tank decorations and other stuff with a sponge. It is also recommended to vacuum the substrate to remove the waste and all the food.

    Breeding

    Before setting up a breeding tank, it is important to know that the German blue ram is an open spawner; i.e., the wild German blue rams form a family group and lay around 200 eggs in their natural habitat.

    Therefore, in captivity, start with 6 juveniles and let them bond. After they have bonded successfully, move the breeding pair to their own respective tanks.

    Requirements for a breeding tank

    1. The ideal water temperature for a breeding tank is around 77 – 82.4° F. They prefer slightly acidic and soft water.
    2. Provide quiet areas for them as they are usually nervous and may end up eating their own eggs if stressed, Also, provide lots of hiding places such as caves and plants, especially wide leaves to spawn on. 
    3. you need to to tape the sides of your tank with a taping paper to alleviate stress.

    The breeding process

    Before spawning, the breeding pair usually spend lots of time cleaning the top of pebbles. After they are comfortable and spawned, the female German blue ram lays around 200 eggs and the male ram cichlid fertilizes them externally. Once they have successfully spawned, you will notice the colors of the pair have intensified drastically. 

    After 60 hours, the eggs hatch, and just after a few days, the fry will be swimming freely.

    Note: German blue ram are known to eat their own fry after hatching, thus, you may put the young ones into a separate tank

    Once the fry is free swimming, the male ram takes them into its mouth to clean and then spits them out.

    After the yolk sac has disappeared, you can feed the fry micro worm or infusoria. You can also feed them newly hatched baby brine shrimp.

    Always remember to maintain the water quality while feeding the fry. you need to to perform 10% water changes every day. 

    Fish Diseases

    Despite being hardy fish, the German blue ram is vulnerable to poor water quality and oxygenation. Hence, resulting in several fish diseases.

    One of the most common problems is Ich, which is caused by parasitic infestations from protozoa or worms. Other common diseases include:

    1. Costia disease
    2. Flatworms
    3. Cestoda or tapeworm infestations
    4. Bacterial infections and diseases
    5. Fish tuberculosis
    6. Skin flukes

    FAQs

    Are German blue Rams difficult to keep?

    No, they are moderately easy and not difficult to keep. Still, not recommended for beginners because they demand top-notch water quality and they are very sensitive to certain chemicals and water changes that might pose a challenge to beginner aquarists. 

    Are German blue rams schooling fish?

    No, they are not schooling fish but like to be in pairs or small groups of 6 individuals mainly. They is territorial, especially while breeding, and may show aggression towards other fish. Therefore, it is important to provide them with lots of hiding places and plants to rest on and reduce stress, and aggression. 

    What is the difference between a blue ram and a German Blue Ram?

    There is absolutely no difference between a blue ram and a German blue ram. Both of the names are given to the same species, “Mikrogeophagus ramirezi”. The blue ram cichlid or a German blue ram is a name given to the same species of blue color morph which is a small and peaceful fish found in the streams of Venezuela and Colombia.

    Do German blue rams need caves?

    Yes, the German blue ram needs lots of hiding places to alleviate the stress and reduce aggression towards other fish. Therefore, caves, rocks, and aquatic plants are essential for their survival.

    Are the German Rams hard to keep?

    Yes – they are very demanding of their water quality and tank requirements. Therefore, a novice fish keeper might not be able to keep them. 

    What is the lifespan of a German ram?

    German blue rams typically have a life expectancy of 3 to 4 years, while some may reach 5 years. The water quality, nutrition, and general care of German blue rams all affect how long they live on average. 

    How big do blue ram cichlids get?

    The usual size of the electric blue ram is between 2-2.5 inches (5. 6 cm), making it a small fish. 

    What It Is Actually Like Living With German Blue Rams

    When everything is dialed in, German Blue Rams are mesmerizing. Here is what the day to day actually looks like.

    They own the bottom of the tank. A pair of GBRs will claim a territory around a cave or flat rock and patrol it constantly. They are not aggressive about it the way mbuna are, but they make it very clear that this is their spot. Other fish learn to stay away.

    The color changes tell you everything. A happy, healthy GBR is electric. Deep blues, bright yellows, vivid black markings. When something is off, the colors wash out almost immediately. You learn to read your ram like a dashboard. If the color fades, something in the tank needs attention right now.

    Breeding behavior is fascinating. If you get a bonded pair, watching them clean a spawning site, lay eggs, and guard fry together is one of the best things in the hobby. They are attentive parents when conditions are right. Most first attempts fail, but when it clicks, it is incredibly rewarding.

    You will check on them constantly. More than any other fish I have kept, GBRs make you pay attention. You will find yourself walking by the tank just to confirm they are still active and colorful. That is not anxiety. That is just what happens when you keep a fish this responsive to its environment.

    How the German Blue Ram Compares to Similar Species

    The Bolivian ram is the comparison every German blue ram buyer needs to make honestly. Bolivian rams are hardier, tolerate temperatures from 72-79°F, handle a wider pH range, and live longer (4-5 years vs. 2-3 for German blue rams). They’re not as spectacularly colored, but they’re still attractive fish with great personality. If I had to recommend one ram species to someone who’d never kept dwarf cichlids, it would be the Bolivian ram every single time. Save the German blue ram for after you’ve proven you can maintain stable warm, soft water conditions.

    The cockatoo dwarf cichlid (Apistogramma cacatuoides) is another excellent comparison. Cockatoos are hardier than German blue rams, tolerate a wider range of conditions, and males are incredibly flashy with their extended dorsal fins. They also breed more readily in captivity. The cockatoo is my recommendation for anyone who wants a colorful dwarf cichlid with breeding potential but isn’t ready for the demands of a German blue ram.

    Final Thoughts

    German blue rams or electric blue rams are beautiful freshwater fish with a peaceful temperament. However, they are not beginner friendly and require some exceptional care in pristine water conditions. 

    If not taken care of properly, the fish might show signs of stress and illness, eventually leading to their death. Therefore, proper tank maintenance and tank setup should be exercised to avoid accidents. 

  • 15 Freshwater Crabs for Your Aquarium (Honest Notes on Every Species)

    15 Freshwater Crabs for Your Aquarium (Honest Notes on Every Species)

    I’ve kept a lot of different crabs over the years. red claws, vampires, fiddler crabs. and one thing I’ll tell you right upfront is that the “freshwater crab” label is misleading for a lot of species you’ll find at the fish store. Many of them are actually brackish water animals that technically survive in freshwater but don’t truly thrive long-term. Knowing that distinction before you buy will save you a lot of frustration and some dead crabs.

    That said, there are some genuinely great options that work well in freshwater setups, and others that make amazing paludarium inhabitants. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are the species worth keeping. with honest notes on what the care labels don’t always tell you.

    In this article I’m talking about freshwater crab, crabs that are thousands of times smaller than any salt water crab you’ve seen, or eaten. And while some people in various parts of the world do actually eat these freshwater crabs as well, more and more they’re finding their way into the aquarium hobby trade.

    Key Takeaways

    • Most freshwater crab are two inches or less fully grown
    • Many species are easy to keep and even breed
    • There is a huge variety of colors and sizes with almost 2000 species

    Top 15 Freshwater Crabs

    Let’s start off our list with a video from our YouTube channel. We will break down both aquatic and territerisal crabs that you can keep in an aquarium. We will include important states like tank size, scientific name, average size, and lifespan for each crab species. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos that we release each week. Let’s get started!

    1. Vampire (Geosesarma dennerle)

    Vampire Crab On Rock
    • Family: Sesarmidae
    • Origin: Indonesian island of Java
    • Scientific Name: Geosesarma dennerle
    • Common Name: Vampire Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 1.5 inches (3.8 cm)
    • Lifespan: 2-3 years in captivity
    • Tank Size: 10-gallons
    • Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
    • Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Tank kH: 10-25 dKH

    The vampire crab is a semi terrestrial species meaning your tank will need to include a dry spot for them to roam and forage on since these type of crab can actually drown if they don’t have a dry area. A 2/3 land to 1/3 water is a good ratio and they only require freshwater. Sand or fine non-sharp pebbles makes the best substrate with a few mossy areas for them to poke around in.

    Their carapace (shell width) is only about an inch wide and with their legs they rarely grow to to two inches fully grown. These beautiful crabs boast striking coloration that includes deep reds, purples and blues and are a recent addition to the aquarium trade. Most of the 50 plus species also have bright yellow eyes and paired with their coloration so it’s easy to see why they’re called vampire crabs.

    But don’t let their name fool you, vampire crabs are a delight to keep and form social groups if you include a few of them, although they are not very active. A 10 gallon tank is adequate for 5 to 6 of them and they’re opportunistic feeders, so they’ll eat about anything including any plants you have.

    For a different colored variation of the Vampire crab, check out the closely related bright orange Red devil crab (Geosesarma Hagen).

    2. Thai Micro (Limnopilos naiyanetri)

    Thai Micro Crabs
    • Family: Hymenosomatidae
    • Origin: Thailand. only one river is known to have these, Tha Chin River
    • Scientific Name: Limnopilos naiyanetri
    • Common Name: Thai Micro Crab, Limnopilos naiyanetri, Pill-box crab, False Spider crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: About 1 centimeter (0.4 inches)
    • Lifespan Captivity: Up to 2 years
    • Tank Size: 5-gallon tank or larger
    • Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
    • Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

    Thai Micro crabs is just that, Micro! These tiny crab only get up to a half inch wide and have a subdued transparent grey-silver color and long ‘spider’ like legs giving them the nickname False Spider Crabs.

    Thai Micro Crabs live in the roots of the water plant hyacinth so try to replicate this environment as much as possible. Unlike most crab species, you want a lot of plants in your tank as they like to hide and rummage through the plants looking for bits of food and won’t dig them up or cause major damage to them.

    These micro crabs are better left in a single community tank as these tiny crabs are so small almost anything else you would keep with them would end up eating them! They’re pretty defenseless and they mostly like to just leisurely hang around on driftwood and plants catching small food particles with the tiny hairs that cover their carapace and legs.

    3. Red Claw (Perisesarma bidens)

    Red Claw Crab
    • Family: Grapsidae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific region
    • Scientific Name: Perisesarma bidens
    • Common Name: Red Claw Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm) carapace width, 4 inches (about 10 cm) overall
    • Lifespan: Up to 2-3 years
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons or 20 gallons for a pair
    • Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
    • Tank pH: 7.5 to 8.5
    • Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

    The first thing to know about these crabs is they are brackish water crabs and not freshwater crabs. Left with only freshwater, they’ll die in less than 6 months since they have gills that are accustomed to breathing in brackish water, so pay attention to your water quality if you want a healthy red claw crab!

    Their defining feature is their brightly colored red claws, hence their name. The Red Claw Crab has two protruding black eyes positioned at the front of its head and range in color from dark green to brownish-red.

    They will do well in a properly aquascaped paludarium with at least 70% brackish water and 30% land area. Sand is the best substrate as these crabs love to dig and burrow and are adept to sandy conditions. Hardscaping is important in order to give red claws a place to hide and molt. Driftwood and rocks are best as they can’t readily destroy them as they can your plants.

    4. Panther (Parathelphusa pantherina)

    • Family: Sesarmidae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific island of Sulawesi
    • Scientific Name: Parathelphusa pantherina
    • Common Name: Panther Crab, Leopard Crabs
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 2-3 inches (5-8 cm)
    • Lifespan Captivity: 5 to 10
    • Tank Size: Minimum 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
    • Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Tank kH: 3-8 dKH

    Panther Crabs are freshwater aquarium crabs that get their name from their unique black spotting on their light yellow and orange bodies. These fully aquatic crab can grow up to three inches and are easy crabs to take care of, but are semi-aggressive and may not do well with other tank mates.

    In fact, it’s best to keep just one crab in a 20 gallon tank or larger. Line your tank with sand and give your crab plenty of rocks, driftwood and other hardscapes so there are plenty of place for one to search and hide when it needs to. But be weary of plants as Panther’s will dig them up and eat them.

    Like most crabs, they are omnivores and appreciate a variety of foods like larvae, small shrimp and even decaying plant matter or blanched vegetables. They primarily feed and roam at night scavenging for food and eating anything they can grab. Lancetfish and unshelled shrimp are particularly great foods as they contain a lot of the calcium needed for Panther crabs to molt successfully.

    5. Pom Pom (Ptychognathus barbatus)

    • Family: Pinnotheridae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific region
    • Scientific Name: Lybia tessellata
    • Common Name: Pom Pom Crab
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Size: About 1 inch (2.5 cm)
    • Lifespan: Up to 1 year
    • Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 72-78 °F (22-26 °C)
    • Tank pH: 7.0. 7.2
    • Tank kH: 2-6 dKH

    The Pom Pom crab (video source) is a newer addition to the hobby and gets it’s name from the hairy tufts on its pincers that really do resemble little pom poms. These freshwater pom crabs are small and rarely get larger than an inch. They have a lightish tan or brown body with speckles or patches of darker browns with some oranges mixed in.

    Pom crabs are very peaceful and are true aquatic freshwater aquarium crabs and can easily live in a community fish tank with similarly sized fish or small non-aggressive fish that won’t eat them. Be sure to use sand as a substrate with plenty of small stones and some driftwood for them to hide in and search for food.

    The freshwater pom is an active scavenger and will eat almost anything including algae and detritus in your tank. They should be fed a varied diet that leans more towards plant materials like leafy greens as well as some protein like bloodworms and brine shrimp.

    And be sure to keep a lid on any tank you have these in as they’re expert climbers and can make their way out of even the smallest holes. Sadly the pom pom crab has one of the shortest lifespans of any of the crabs on our list, lasting no more than a year in captivity.

    6. Towuti (Parathelphusa ferruginea)

    • Family: Parathelphusidae
    • Origin: Lake Towuti, Sulawesi Island, Indonesia
    • Scientific Name: Sundathelphusa towutensis
    • Common Name: Towuti Crab, Rusty Brown Sulawesi Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous – prefer live food
    • Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
    • Lifespan: Unknown, but estimated to be 2-3 years in captivity
    • Tank Size: 5 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 75-82 °F (24-28 °C)
    • Tank pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

    Towuti crabs are small 2 inch (5 cm) crabs that hail from one island in Indonesia, Sulawesi, and live in lakes and tributaries making them true fully aquatic species fit for any aquarium. Just make sure it has a lid as they’re active even in the day and expert escape artists.

    The Towuti are aggressive and highly skilled hunters, so no community tanks for these guys. They will eat small fish, shrimp and anything they can get their claws on. They prefer live fish and shrimp over plant material, but adding fall leaves (dying or dead organic matter) or algae wafers gives them a feeling of home and the extra plant material these omnivores need.

    7. Red Devil (Geosesarma hagen)

    • Family: Sesarmidae
    • Origin: Indonesia
    • Scientific Name: Geosesarma hagen
    • Common Name: Red Devil Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) in carapace width
    • Lifespan: 1-2 years
    • Tank Size: At least 5 gallons for a pair or trio, with plenty of hiding places and climbing structures.
    • Temperature: 72-78°F (22-26°C)
    • Tank pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Tank kH: 2-5 dKH

    The Red Devil Crab (video source) has to be the meanest looking crab out of all of them. I mean, it just looks like a devil with its dark legs, bright red body and pincers and piercing yellow eyes starring at you. It’s definitely colorful.

    They’re semi-terrestrial and do best in freshwater paludariums and share the same home as the Geosesarma Dennerle (Vampire crabs) in Indonesia. And although they may look really mean, they actually are not aggressive and like having the company of a few of their own species.

    These smaller crabs measure around 2-3 inches (5. 7 cm) full grown and only live to about a year and a half. They are nocturnal and like to hide from light in the day time under rocks, wood and vegetation. And they’re really skillful hunters.

    Red Devils enjoy hunting live foods like small slow fish, brine shrimp and anything it can get it’s claws on, but still need some detritus and dying plant matter as they’re omnivores.

    8. Thai Devil (Cardisoma carnifex)

    • Family: Cardisomidae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific region
    • Scientific Name: Cardisoma carnifex
    • Common Name: Thai Devil Crab, Black Land Crab, Giant Land Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: Up to 18 cm (7 inches) carapace width
    • Lifespan: Up to 10 years
    • Tank Size: Not suitable for aquariums
    • Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)

    The Thai Red Devil crab (video source), not to be confused with the Red Devil Crab (Geosesarma hagen), is one of the largest terrestrial crabs growing up to 6. 8 inches (about 15. 20 cm) including its legs and is definitely not for the inexperienced hobbyist.

    Not the most colorful crab with its maroon to brownish-grey or greyish-blue body and legs, Thai Devil Crabs do live up to 8 years although most of the time will be spent in their deep burrows, some of which can be as deep as seven feet.

    Due to the way a Thai Devil Crab breathes, they need a lot of humidity as their lungs pull oxen from the water vapor, not the air. They are also aggressive and like to live on their own so you’ll need to keep them in a single species tank.

    9. Matano (Syntripsa Matannensis)

    • Family: Gecarcinucidae
    • Origin: Lake Matano, Sulawesi, Indonesia
    • Scientific Name: Geosesarma notophorum
    • Common Name: Matano Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
    • Lifespan: 2-3 years
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 72-82 °F (22-28 °C)
    • Tank pH: 6.5-7.5

    Matano Crabs (video source) are aquatic creatures that can also come onto dry land if available. They’re a beautiful deep purple color including their purple carapace and have white pigmented joints.

    The Matano crab is aggressive with same species crabs and it’s best not to keep more than one male in a tank. Male crabs will definitely fight, sometimes to the death.

    These nocturnal crabs grow to between 3. 5 inches (7. 12 cm) and live around 3 years in captivity. Due to their larger size it’s best to keep a male and one or two females in a 20 gallon tank or larger. They’ll also eat slow swimming fish so don’t keep them in a community set up.

    They actually come from the same lake in Indonesia as the Panther crab (parathelpusaa pantherina), although you shouldn’t keep them in the same tank. Like Panthers, a sand substrate is best with some gravel plus nooks and crannies to keep them occupied.

    Matano Crabs are omnivorous scavengers and will eat practically anything but like many freshwater crabs, a variety of different foods is best.

    10. Fiddler (Ocypodidae)

    Fiddler Crab
    • Family: Ocypodidae
    • Origin: Coastal regions worldwide
    • Scientific Name: Uca spp.
    • Common Name: Fiddler Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
    • Lifespan: 2-3 years
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 75-85 °F (24-29 °C)
    • Tank pH: 7.2-8.2
    • Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

    There are more than 100 of these semi-terrestrial crab species and each has it’s own color variation and unique attributes which makes these little crabs ideal for beginner crab owners.

    The best environment to house them is a slightly brackish paludarium with at least 10. 20 cm (4. 8 inches) of sand for substrate so they can create little tunnels and burrow.

    Fiddler Crabs will return to their burrows often and males will fight for the best burrow spots in your tank, so make sure there is plenty of room if you plan to keep more than one male.

    These fascinating invertebrates come in a variety of colors and the options are endless. The most striking feature is of course the large claw or pincer that they’re named for, which is only on the males and is used for fighting and during mating.

    Fiddler crabs are relatively small, barely growing to two inches including their leg span making them ideal for smaller aquarium set ups. A fiddler crab can live up to 3 years and are easy to care for and feed.

    11. Hermit (Coenobita variabilis)

    Hermit Crab in Hand
    • Family: Coenobitidae
    • Origin: Coastal regions of the Indo-Pacific
    • Scientific Name: Coenobita variabilis
    • Common Name: Hermit Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: Average species is 2.5 inches (6.5 cm)
    • Lifespan: 5-30 years
    • Tank Size: Minimum 5 gallons
    • Temperature: 26-30°C  (~80°F-85°F)
    • Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Tank kH: 8-12 dKH

    Hermit Crabs are terrestrial and most likely the first pet crabs crab owners get as they are so easy to find and inexpensive compared to most other pets. And there are hundreds of sub-species that range from an inch or less in size to the coconut hermit that gets a whopping 40 inches from leg tip to tip.

    Their colors and life spans are just as varied and some can live up to 30 years!

    What makes Hermits very different is they don’t have a hard exoskeleton like other crabs which is why they must find a shell to protect themselves, or they’re easily prayed upon. As they get bigger they must find a new shell discarding the old.

    Hermits are also different in that they have modified lungs and breath from water vapor rather than water or air. This means to keep them you must have a tank humidity of 75% or more. No an easy thing for a beginner, so these are not really an easy crab to keep.

    You should also use sand as a substrate that is always moist with brackish water and has a depth of at least four inches for a happy crab to burrow. And plenty of different sized shells for them to grow into!

    12. Tanganyika (Parathelphusidae sp.)

    • Family: Parathelphusidae
    • Origin: East Africa, specifically Lake Tanganyika
    • Scientific Name: Neolamprologus multifasciatus
    • Common Name: Tanganyika crabs
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 2-4 cm (0.8-1.6 inches)
    • Lifespan: Up to 4 years
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 75-82°F (24-28°C)
    • Tank pH: 7.0-8.5
    • Tank kH: 6-10 dKH

    Tanganyika Crabs include nine known species all deriving from Lake Tanganyika in East Africa. These are one of the rarest species and little research has been done on them. So if you are able to secure one of these, consider yourself lucky.

    The species ranges from one to two inches in size and all are some sort of light brown and tan in color. Honestly a bit unremarkable.

    They are true aquatic crabs and don’t need any dry land to thrive. They prefer a sand substrate and pebbles and don’t borrow like other crabs. They do, however need places to hide so include some rocks and driftwood in your tank.

    And forget about plants as these little aquarium crabs will shred and eat anything and are opportunistic scavengers in their natural habitat.

    13. Marble Batik (Metasesarma obesum)

    • Family: Sesarmidae
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Scientific Name: Metasesarma obesum
    • Common Name: Marble Batik Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 2-3 cm (0.8-1.2 inches)
    • Lifespan: 2-3 years
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons or larger
    • Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
    • Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Tank kH: 2-8 dKH

    The Marble Batik Crab is another land or terrestrial crab that is actually quite rare in the aquarium hobby world. They’re small and only grow to less than two inches and live for up to 3 years.

    They’re easy to keep and don’t require much water, although if you have the space a freshwater and a saltwater bowl with marine salt are optimal. But you can just keep them in a 5 gallon tank with a freshwater bowl if necessary.

    Like most land crab, Marble Batiks like to burrow and require a minimum 2 inch substrate of sand and small pebbles. They love to explore and you should provide them with plenty of places to do so using rocks and driftwood. Plants are also good.

    Like most land crabs, they are easy enough to keep provided you’re able to keep the humidity at 75% or more as they breath through water vapor and not through water or air.

    14. Red Apple (Metasesarma aubryi) aka Chameleon

    • Family: Grapsidae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific region
    • Scientific Name: Pugettia producta
    • Common Name: Red Apple Crab, Chameleon Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm)
    • Lifespan: 3-6 years
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
    • Tank pH: 7.5-8.5
    • Tank kH: 4-10 dKH

    Red Apple crabs as a species are terrestrial crabs that grow to be about 7. 10 cm (3. 4 inches) in total size and live to anywhere between 3 to 6 years old. Since they are terrestrial, all they really need is a freshwater bowl in a landscaped aquarium, although a paludarium setup works best.

    These are really hardy and easy to care for making them very beginner friendly pets. They’re colorful with dark legs and bodies that have red and orange claws and bright yellow eyes making them attractive pets to keep. They are also called Chameleon crabs because their colors can change according to their moods.

    Red Apples are social and you should include a minimum of 2 to 3 crabs in your tank.

    15. Rainbow (Cardisoma armatum)

    • Family: Grapsidae
    • Origin: Indo-Pacific region
    • Scientific Name: Cardisoma armatum
    • Common Name: Rainbow Crab, African Rainbow Crab, Nigerian Moon Crab, Patriot Crab, Rainbow Land Crab
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Size: up to 5 inches (12.7 cm)
    • Lifespan: up to 3-5 years
    • Tank Size: Minimum 20-30 gallons for one crab
    • Temperature: 75-85°F (24-29°C)
    • Tank pH: 7.5-8.5.
    • Tank kH: 8-15 dKH

    Rainbow Crabs (video source) are a semi-aquatic and aren’t the easiest crab to keep as they need a relatively high humidity level in their tank, up to 80%, as they have special gills that breath from humidity and not the water or air like most other crabs. They also need a place to completely dry off and need 5-10% brackish water to do their best.

    These brightly colored brackish crabs prefer to spend most of their time buried in burrows they make in the sand substrate of your tank. So make sure you have at least 6 inches of sand on the bottom so they can dig away. Also include things to keep them busy like driftwood and rocks that create little caves and crevices for them to explore.

    These are very aggressive crabs with sharp pincers and should be kept alone as they will literally fight with their own species to the death. They can grow from 6 to 8 inches which makes them one of the largest crab on our list, and one requiring a large tank of at least 20 gallons for a single rainbow land crab, 40 or more for more than one rainbow land crab.

    These brackish crabs omnivorous and love to scavenge at night for foods like crab pellets and algae wafers when they’re most active. During the day they are usually sleeping in the burrows they’ll make in your substrate.

    Tank Mates For Freshwater Aquarium Crabs – And Which to Avoid!

    When it comes to what makes good tank mates for crabs, it really depends on the species of crab and their preferences. As a general rule, most land crabs do not do well with other crabs, especially male to male. Some will fight to the death. And others will fight with other species of crab. You really need to research each individual species to know.

    Another general guideline is never include small slow moving fish as most crabs are hunters as well as scavengers and will eat whatever they can catch. And similarly, larger aggressive fish will usually make a meal of your crabs. So again, it’s really important to look at each individual species’ requirements.

    Some other bad tank mates are shrimp, crayfish and any small slow creature that can easily become a meal. Most crab are predators, and all of them are omnivores which means they eat meat. So expect them to dine on whatever is in the tank and they can catch and you should be safe.

    One note, just because your crab can’t catch the fish in your community tank doesn’t mean it is okay. Fish know a predator is around and this can really stress them out. So usually it’s best to just keep crab by themselves.

    What crabs live in freshwater?

    There are many species of crabs that can live in freshwater. Here are a few:

    Red Claw Crab (Perisesarma bidens)
    Panther Crab (Parathelphusa pantherina)
    Thai Micro Crab (Limnopilos naiyanetri)
    Vampire Crabs (Geosesarma sp.)
    Fiddler Crab (Uca sp.)
    Marble Batik Crab (Metasesarma obesum)
    Tanganyika Crab (Neolamprologus multifasciatus)
    Orange Crab (Sesarma bidens)

    Are there any fully aquatic freshwater crabs?

    Yes, there are some fully aquatic freshwater crab species with the largest family being “Potamidae,” which includes the Mexican Dwarf Crab (Cambarellus patzcuarensis), the Red Clawed Crab (Perisesarma bidens), and the Thai Micro Crab (Limnopilos naiyanetri). All of these crabs live in freshwater streams, rivers and lakes and are ‘true’ freshwater crab. Panther Crabs (Parathelphusa pantherina) are another fully aquatic crab.

    Are there any edible freshwater crabs?

    Yes, freshwater crab is eaten just like any other crustacean. Although many species of these crab are very small and don’t really make a meal themselves, when added to soups and stir fries these crab provide protein and flavor to a number of dishes around the world. Matano Crab are commercially harvested for food.

    What do freshwater crabs eat?

    Freshwater aquarium crab are omnivores that usually feed on dead plants and animals they find when foraging for food. They eat anything from algae and detritus to small fish and other invertebrates.

    Can you have crabs in a freshwater tank?

    Yes, you can keep these crabs in a freshwater tank. But make sure the crab species you plan to keep is compatible with your tank setup as many species are aquatic and terrestrial and need a dry place as well as fresh water.

    Can I put a crab in my fish tank?

    Yes, you can put a crab in your fish tank if it is an aquatic crab. Most freshwater crabs are terrestrial and need to be able to walk on drier surfaces. You’ll need to research which species of crab you want and find out if they are truly aquatic freshwater crabs.

    Are hermit crabs good for freshwater aquariums?

    Overall a hermit crab is not a good fit for a freshwater aquarium set up. Most hermit crab need salt water, although they can live in fresh water as well. Also, hermits need to be able to walk around on dry ground, so an aquarium with no dry areas is not a good set up for them.

    Can you put crabs in freshwater fish tank?

    You can add crabs to a freshwater fish tank provided they are the correct species. There are many species that do well in freshwater fish tanks. Take a look at our list above to find the right crabs to keep.

    In Closing

    Keeping freshwater crabs is just one more exciting way to diversify your aquarium with something new and super interesting. And no matter what type of aquarium set up you have, there’s a species that matches, from terrestrial, semi-terrestrial and even completely aquatic species, these crabs offers something for everyone.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: What You Need to Know

    Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: What You Need to Know

    Table of Contents

    Freshwater angelfish are one of the most popular cichlids in the hobby and one of the most misunderstood. They are not community fish in the way most people think. They eat small tetras, bully slow swimmers, and become territorial nightmares when they pair off. I have kept angelfish for over 25 years and the most common mistake I see is stocking them with fish they will eventually eat. It happens every single time. The community fish that stops being a community fish the moment it is big enough to eat its neighbors.

    The community fish that eats the community.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Freshwater Angelfish

    The most persistent myth about angelfish is that they’re peaceful community fish. They’re cichlids. They eat small fish. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard from keepers who watched their angelfish eat their neon tetras overnight. If it fits in an angelfish’s mouth, it’s food. And adult angelfish have surprisingly large mouths. The other major misconception is tank size. Yes, a single angelfish can technically survive in a 20-gallon tall tank, but a pair or small group needs 55 gallons minimum. Their tall body shape means they need vertical space too, not just footprint.

    Freshwater angelfish are one of the most recognizable fish in the hobby. And one of the most misunderstood. People buy them as juveniles thinking they’re peaceful community fish, then are surprised when a 6-inch adult starts eating neon tetras and bullying everything in the tank. I’ve kept angelfish for years and they’re genuinely wonderful fish, but they need the right setup and the right tank mates. This care guide covers what actually matters from my experience, not just the textbook requirements.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Freshwater Angelfish

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They are graceful and slow. Watching angelfish drift through a planted tank is hypnotic. Their slow, deliberate movements and tall, flowing fins make them one of the most elegant freshwater fish.

    They pair off and breed readily. If you have a group of 6, at least one pair will form and start laying eggs. The breeding behavior is fascinating to watch, but be prepared for increased aggression.

    They recognize feeding time. Angelfish learn your routine quickly. They congregate at the feeding spot before you even open the food container. Some will eat from your fingers.

    Fin nipping is a constant risk. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and other nippy species will shred angelfish fins. Those long, flowing fins are irresistible targets. Choose tank mates carefully.

    How the Freshwater Angelfish Compares to Similar Species

    The altum angelfish is the wild cousin that every angelfish enthusiast eventually considers. Altums are taller, more dramatic, and have a presence that domestic angelfish can’t match. But they’re also significantly more demanding. They need soft, acidic water, warmer temperatures (82-86°F), and are much more sensitive to water quality. Domestic freshwater angelfish are reliable, good-looking, and easy to live with. Altums are breathtaking but high-maintenance. Unless you’re experienced with demanding species, start with domestics.

    The discus is the other tall, round South American cichlid that gets compared to angelfish. Discus are more colorful and arguably more beautiful, but they’re in a different league of difficulty. They need warmer water (82-86°F), are extremely sensitive to water quality, and cost significantly more. Angelfish give you about 60% of the discus experience at about 10% of the difficulty and cost. For most keepers, that’s a great trade-off.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How big do freshwater angelfish get?

    Freshwater angelfish can grow up to 6 inches long and 8 inches tall, including their elongated dorsal and anal fins. In a well-maintained aquarium with proper nutrition, most reach their full size within 12 to 18 months.

    Can angelfish live alone?

    A single angelfish can do fine on its own in a community tank, but they are more confident and display better coloring when kept with a companion or small group. If you go with a pair, watch for territorial behavior during breeding.

    Are angelfish aggressive?

    Angelfish are semi-aggressive, especially during breeding. They establish a pecking order in groups and can bully smaller or slower-moving fish. Providing plenty of vertical space and line-of-sight breaks with tall plants helps reduce aggression.

    What is the ideal tank size for angelfish?

    A 30-gallon tall tank is the minimum for a pair of angelfish. For a small group of four to six, aim for a 55-gallon or larger. The vertical height of the tank matters more than footprint because of their tall body shape.

    How long do freshwater angelfish live?

    With proper care, freshwater angelfish live 8 to 10 years in captivity. Some well-kept specimens have been reported to live even longer. Stable water parameters, a varied diet, and low stress are the biggest factors in longevity.

    Do angelfish eat smaller fish?

    Yes, angelfish are opportunistic feeders and will eat fish small enough to fit in their mouths. Neon tetras and small rasboras are common victims. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten, such as larger tetras, corydoras, or peaceful medium-sized species.

    The Reality of Keeping Freshwater Angelfish

    Angelfish are beautiful and widely available. But the pet store version of what they need and the reality are two different things.

    They eat small fish. Any fish that fits in an angelfish’s mouth is food. Neon tetras, guppies, small rasboras. All fair game once the angelfish reaches adult size. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten.

    They need tall tanks. Angelfish grow tall, not just long. Their fins can span 8 to 10 inches vertically. A standard 20 gallon long does not have the height they need. A 55 gallon or taller tank is the minimum for a small group.

    They fight for dominance. In a group of angelfish, a hierarchy forms. The dominant pair claims the best territory and pushes everyone else around. In a tank that is too small, subordinate angels get beaten up constantly.

    Breeding pairs become aggressive. A mated pair of angelfish guarding eggs will attack anything that comes near. This includes tank mates that have lived peacefully with them for years. Be prepared for this shift in behavior.

    Biggest Mistake New Freshwater Angelfish Owners Make

    Keeping them in a tank that is too short. Angelfish need vertical space. A 20 gallon long is a terrible home for angelfish even though it has enough gallons. Get a tank that is at least 18 inches tall, preferably 24.

    Expert Take

    Keep angelfish in a 55 gallon or larger tank that is at least 18 inches tall. Choose tank mates that are too big to eat and too calm to nip fins. Rummy nose tetras, corydoras, and bristlenose plecos are the classic companions for a reason. They work.

    Key Takeaways

    • Freshwater angelfish are peaceful fish that can be kept in a community planted tank.
    • It can be slightly challenging to find appropriate tank mates for angels due to their potential aggression, but they do well with larger tetras and their own species.
    • Angelfish have undergone selective breeding to express the best colors and patterns possible.
    • Breeding angelfish is straightforward and happens on its own in the right settings. This has eliminated the need to collect wild angelfish.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NamePterophyllum scalare
    Common NamesAngelfish, Freshwater angelfish
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginAmazon River system
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityLow
    Lifespan10 to 12 years
    TemperamentPeaceful (Semi-aggressive when breeding)
    Tank LevelAll
    Minimum Tank Size40 gallons
    Temperature Range75. 82°F
    Water Hardness1-5 KH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.0
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCertain community species
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyCichlinae
    GenusPterophyllum
    SpeciesP. Scalare (Schultze, 1823)

    Brief Introduction

    Freshwater angelfish remain one of the most popular fish available in the aquarium hobby. These fish have been around for decades and still hold the hearts of hobbyists everywhere. Check our our video from our YouTube Channel. We have more details in our blog post so you can follow along to both!

    Now more than ever, dozens of angelfish varieties featuring every color and pattern are readily available. Their easy care requirements on top of their simple breeding, make angelfish one of the best feature fish you can have in your freshwater tank.

    There are a few considerations that come along with owning angelfish, though. These fish, scientifically known as Pterophyllum scalare, actually belong to the cichlid family. If you know anything about freshwater fish, then some red flags is going off in your head. Cichlids are aggressive, right?

    Yes, freshwater cichlids are known for being aggressive. However, angelfish are one of the most peaceful cichlid species for the home aquarium. They are often kept with community tank species but can also be kept with other semi-aggressive cichlids. This leaves a lot of possibilities for tank mates and tank setups!

    It should be noted that two other species of angelfish are sometimes seen in the aquarium hobby: P altum (Known as Altum Angelfish) and P leopoldi. For this article, we will only focus on P scalare.

    Do Angelfish Live in Freshwater?

    Yes! Angelfish live in freshwater. But angelfish also live in saltwater. This is a case of stolen identity. Freshwater angelfish are not related to saltwater angelfish. Freshwater angels belong to the Cichlidae family while saltwater angels belong to the Pomacanthidae family. Even as you go further up their scientific taxonomy, there is no connection between these two fish.

    Most likely, they are both regarded as angelfish due to their intricate trailing fins and rounded appearance.

    Origin and Habitat

    Angelfish originate from the Amazon River basin throughout the northern regions of tropical South America. More specifically, they is found in Colombia, French Guiana, Peru, Brazil, and Guyana.

    These fish are found in slow-moving waters filled with vegetation. Water is soft and stained from tannins due to organic matter that falls from the jungle canopy above.

    Today, most aquarium angelfish are bred in captivity. As we’ll see, they are easy to breed and acclimate well to aquarium conditions. This makes transporting them to your own aquarium much easier, with less risk of introducing disease and parasites from wild-caught individuals.

    Appearance

    What’s angelic about a fish? We’ll tell you.

    Freshwater Angelfish

    Angelfish are unlike any other fish available. They have compact yet tall bodies with trailing fins. These long pelvic fins are sometimes known as feelers as they is seen extended forwards and sideways to interpret their surroundings better. With their fins and slow, graceful movements, they effortlessly float from one side of the tank to the other. Some species naturally have red eyes and they make excellent centerpiece fish.

    On top of their ornate appearance, angelfish also come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some of the most common color variation options:

    • Koi angelfish. Named after their resemblance to the coldwater species, koi angelfish feature mottled variations of white, yellow/orange, and black.
    • Marble angelfish. There are a few variations of angelfish within the marble category, including veil tail varieties. These fish often feature black and silver marbling with long, uneven streaks of color. The black marbling varies from fish to fish.
    • Zebra angelfish. Zebra angelfish are similar to their wild-type variations but have much broader and more even alternating silver and black stripes.
    • Silver angelfish. These angels are thought to be the most natural variety, with a silver body and random, thin vertical black stripes.
    • Black lace angelfish – pictured above. This fish offers a silver body with black strips and the trademark red eye
    • Gold angelfish – A light sliver and orange to gold color near the face. You will also see gold marble varieties that will offer black marks across the body and fins
    • Veil angelfish – These fish have long upper and lower fins that make them appear taller in the aquarium. They do best in tall planted tanks.

    How Big Do Freshwater Angelfish Get?

    Don’t be fooled by the small angelfish for sale at your local fish stores. These fish are sold as juveniles but can grow to get quite big over time. Freshwater angelfish can grow to be 6 inches in length and 8 inches tall. It isn’t unheard of for them to reach up to 12 inches in height at mature size.

    Lifespan

    On top of their size, angelfish can live for considerably longer times. Freshwater angelfish can live to be over a decade old, sometimes surpassing 12 years of age!

    This long lifespan is important to keep in mind as they are a long-term commitment. On top of their large size and volatile temperament, angelfish should never be an impulse buy.

    Food and Diet

    To get the best fins and colors out of your angelfish, you want to provide the best food and diet possible. These are large centerpiece fish, but they have small mouths and aren’t overly ambitious when it comes to feeding times. This means that feeding angelfish requires some special attention.

    Angelfish eat at the surface of the water. They may chase after some sinking food, but they prefer a high-quality pellet or flake food that can easily fit in their mouth. It should also be noted that they’re not overly ambitious eaters, and prefer to eat at a relaxed pace. If the other tank mates in the aquarium are overly active, then it is necessary to offer both floating and sinking foods for better distribution.

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    Otherwise, freshwater angelfish will appreciate a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and mosquito larvae. As omnivores, they is offered a variety of blanched vegetables as well, including cucumber and lettuce. These vegetables is clipped to the side of the aquarium to prevent your angel from dragging its fins across the bottom of the tank.

    How Often Do You Feed Angelfish and How Much?

    In general, aquarium fish should be fed at least once a day. The portion should be able to be eaten within 5 minutes, with the excess being immediately removed from the tank. Many hobbyists prefer to feed their fish in more frequent, smaller portions. An example of this feeding schedule would be a pinch of food in the morning, afternoon, and night.

    Temperament and Behavior

    Angelfish are largely peaceful fish. Many hobbyists keep them without ever having a problem with other fish. Now and again, a hobbyist will experience an overly aggressive angelfish, which taints the name of the species altogether.

    It is true that angelfish is semi-aggressive. Caution should be taken when keeping angels, especially larger individuals, with slow or small fish. When buying angelfish, try to go for juveniles. Sadly, there is probably a reason why a large angelfish has been returned to the store, often caused by over-aggression.

    Otherwise, angelfish are very docile. They is seen floating at the top and in the middle of the water column without hardly moving their fins. They may swim at all levels of the aquarium, but they especially like hanging out by the surface, waiting for food.

    Best Tank Mates

    While often sold as a community fish, angels need some careful tank mate planning. In general, angelfish is kept with most community tank species as long as they aren’t fin nippers or overly active.

    Boesemani Rainbowfish

    It is important to a juvenile angelfish will grow. Just because they is safely kept with certain species while small does not mean that those same tank mates will be compatible in the future. Because of this, it’s best to plan your community aquarium for long-term success.

    Here are some of the best community angelfish tank mates:

    As a cichlid, angelfish can also be kept in freshwater aquariums that feature peaceful cichlids. Here are some of the recommended species:

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Adult angelfish have been known to be aggressive towards one another. But there’s no denying how incredible these fish look together in planted community tanks!

    These fish are best kept in pairs as male and female in the long term. In larger tanks, small groups of 5 or more may be kept as long as fish are added together at the same time while still juveniles. It’s also strongly recommended to only keep female angelfish together to prevent harassment, though this is difficult as there are minuscule differences between males and females.

    To prevent aggression altogether, only keep a single angelfish in any given tank.

    What Size Tank Do You Need For 2 Angelfish?

    Many hobbyists like keeping freshwater angelfish in pairs. This increases the chances of breeding and also lessens the possibility of aggression arising.

    In general, the bare minimum tank size for any angelfish is 40 gallons. However, if keeping only a single pair of angelfish in an aquarium by themselves, then it’s possible to keep them in a 20 gallon tall aquarium; this is one of the only fish in the aquarium trade that does better in a taller aquarium rather than a long one.

    Do Angelfish Eat Other Angelfish?

    A large, adult angelfish may eat a smaller angelfish. Though these fish have tiny mouths, they’re very capable of bullying other fish until they die. At that point, they may begin to eat the fish. This is especially known to be true for smaller species, like neon tetras.

    Whenever adding angelfish to an aquarium, make sure that they are all relatively the same size and preferably from the same tank.

    Tank Mates to Avoid

    Angelfish tank mates to avoid are smaller, slower fish. Because of this, most species of tetra are incompatible with angels; at the same time, fin-nipping tetra species must also be avoided. Overly aggressive species, like African cichlids, can’t be kept with angelfish as they may injure or stress them out. Lastly, tank mates can’t be overly active as this could also cause damage to your fish or cause unnecessary competition during feeding periods.

    Complete Care Guide

    Once you get the tank mate situation sorted out, angelfish care is easy. These are relatively hardy fish that have been captive bred in the aquarium trade for decades. This has made them very resistant to common aquarium illnesses and forgiving of incorrect water conditions.

    Here are some ways you can give your angelfish the best life possible!

    Aquarium Setup

    The best angelfish aquarium setup will resemble their natural habitat with slow-moving water and dense vegetation. In fact, the angelfish body shape is perfectly designed to flow in and out of live plants. Not only do plants make your fish feel at home, but they also help maintain water quality and lessen the need for tank maintenance.

    On top of live plants, hard structures, like driftwood and smooth rocks, is used to make your fish feel more comfortable.

    Tank Size

    Angelfish can get to be pretty decent sizes, but their relaxed demeanor and ease of care don’t make a large tank necessary.

    What size tank do angelfish need? A single pair of angelfish without any other fish need a 20 gallon tall tank. A pair of angelfish with other community fish need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. A small group of angels should be kept in freshwater aquariums over 100 gallons.

    55 Gallon Aquarium
    55 Gallon Aquarium

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    As mentioned before, a tall tank is better than a long tank when keeping angelfish due to their long, pointed fins.

    Tank Decorations

    Angels are best kept in aquariums that match the conditions of the freshwater rivers and streams that they’re found in, but they have adapted to the more traditional appearance of hobbyist tanks. This means they is kept in a planted aquarium with natural driftwood and rock or colorful decor and pirate ships.

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    Just as long as these decorations are aquarium-safe and won’t tug at your fish’s delicate fins, they is used for an angel tank.

    Substrate

    Similarly, angelfish is kept on an assortment of substrates, like sand, gravel, or even a bare bottom. Sand is beneficial for hobbyists looking to achieve a natural appearance that facilities plant root growth. Gravel is a popular choice for beginner hobbyists that aren’t interested in keeping plants. A bare bottom is great for angel keepers looking to minimize their workload.

    Is the Freshwater Angelfish Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • A true classic for good reason. Angelfish have been popular since the 1930s because they’re beautiful, engaging, and readily available in dozens of varieties.
    • Choose tank mates carefully. No fish small enough to eat (goodbye, neon tetras) and nothing nippy enough to damage their fins (no tiger barbs).
    • Need vertical space. Their tall body shape means tank height matters as much as length. At least 18 inches tall, ideally 24.
    • Can become territorial during breeding. A pair guarding eggs will dominate a significant portion of the tank, pushing other fish out of their territory.
    • Excellent for planted tanks. They look stunning among tall plants like Amazon swords and vallisneria, which also mimic their natural habitat.
    • Plan for a group of 5-6 if you want to see natural pairing behavior. Buying a single angelfish works, but watching a pair form naturally from a group is a special experience.

    Lighting

    Angels aren’t shy fish. In fact, shyness is a sign that something is wrong. For the most part, angelfish are likely to be found in the front of the tank. If they’re hiding in the back, then they is facing bullying from other fish, improper water parameters, or overly intense lighting.

    If you find that your fish is staying in the shadows of your tank, observe for bullying, test water conditions, and try lowering the lighting intensity. Adding floating plants and creating more areas of shade can help your fish feel more comfortable.

    Live Plants

    Live plants are the best tank mates for angelfish! These fish is kept with all species of plant in a high or low tech setting. They especially enjoy floating plant species that provide food and coverage at the top of the tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    If keeping angels in a planted aquarium, then not a lot of tank maintenance is required as the plants will naturally recycle excess nutrients. Here’s how to make sure your angel tank stays running smoothly!

    Filtration and Aeration

    Angelfish do best in an aquarium with little to no water current. However, adequate water flow is necessary for the circulation of gases and nutrients throughout the aquarium.

    For the most part, the current from an appropriately sized hang on the back filter or canister filter will be gentle enough for angels. If you find that your fish is struggling to swim in your aquarium, then it is necessary to baffle the return flow.

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    Angelfish grow to large sizes, which means more waste. Gauge how many fish you have and their size when picking out your aquarium filter. Otherwise, additional aeration is not necessary, though a carbon dioxide diffuser is necessary for heavily planted setups.

    Water Parameters

    Angels are hardy fish, but cannot tolerate traces of ammonia or nitrite. Planted aquariums require nitrate to run, though levels should always remain under 30 ppm. It may be necessary to dose nutrients for healthy plant growth.

    While wild angelfish originate from acidic water conditions, most individuals have been captive bred. This means that they have adapted to average aquarium conditions with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 and a water temperature between 75 and 82°F.

    Tank Maintenance

    For most aquariums, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly cleaning schedule maintains water parameters. This percentage and frequency may change depending on the number of plants and current bioload in the aquarium. It’s strongly recommended to use an aquarium vacuum while performing a water change to remove any debris or waste that gets stuck in the substrate or between plant stems.

    Another part of maintenance is trimming plants. Though this isn’t required, some plants can grow unruly, which can start to become overwhelming. Not to mention that you will need to keep up with feeding your plants as well.

    Breeding

    Breeding angelfish is easy, fun, and rewarding. These fish are easy to breed as long as you’re able to establish a male and female pairing. Breeding should take place in a separate tank if there are other fish present in the aquarium. A video below by Patrick Neary goes into more detail.

    There are a few differences between male and female angels, but they is hard to see. One of the only, though not always guaranteed, ways to tell these fish apart is by examining their behavior. Male angelfish will show much more territorial behavior than females, though some females is just as aggressive.

    In general, it’s best to shop from pet stores that already have an established breeding pair. Otherwise, a small group of juvenile angelfish is purchased and maintained until a breeding pair has formed.

    Once a pair has formed, they angelfish mate on their own. The water temperature may be slightly elevated, and the quality of food increased to encourage spawning. When ready, the female will release eggs that the male will fertilize. Angelfish parents are very protective of their eggs and should be kept together during this time.

    Within a few days, the eggs will hatch the fry will become free-swimming. Baby brine shrimp are great to feed these newborn fish as the yolk sacs of newly hatched brine shrimp offer a lot of nutritional value to them. The parents will continue offering protection during this time but have been known to eat their fry if not supplied with enough food!

    Fry may be fed tiny foods, like brine shrimp nauplii, until ready to accept bigger portions.

    Fish Diseases

    Though angels are hardy fish, they’re susceptible to a few unique diseases and illnesses. Like other fish, they can contract ich, velvet, and fin rot, especially if their long fins are allowed to scrape across objects in the aquarium. Here are a few less common problems you will experience with your angelfish:

    1. Cloudy eyes. Cloudy eyes are never a good sign in fish. They’re indicative of a larger bacteria, fungus, or parasitic infection. Cloudy eyes are caused by poor water quality and can be treated with consistent water changes and light medication treatment.
    2. Gill flukes. These are parasites that take over the fish’s gills and cause inflammation, difficulty breathing, and secondary infections. Gill flukes are a little more difficult to treat than affected fish experiencing cloudy eyes and can require medication, dips, and consistent water changes.
    3. Hexamita. Another parasitic infection, Hexamita causes hole in the head for angels. This is caused by water quality and can be treated by removing carbon from the aquarium, medications, and water changes.

    When picking out your new fish, find angelfish that are bright in color, round in the head, and with clear eyes. If possible, ask the employees at the pet stores to feed the fish in front of you. There should be no hesitation to eat. Once home, quarantine your angels accordingly.

    Conclusion

    Angelfish are cichlids first and community fish second. Forget that and your neon tetras disappear.

    Angels are very popular fish for a good reason! They are easy to care for, beautiful in color, and a statement piece for any freshwater aquarium. It is slightly challenging to find suitable tank mates for angels, but they do well on their own, in pairs, or with large, moderately active species. When kept in pairs, they’re easy and rewarding to breed!

    South American Cichlid Species Directory

    This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

  • 30 Popular Tropical Fish Species: A Guide to the Best Options for Your Tank

    30 Popular Tropical Fish Species: A Guide to the Best Options for Your Tank

    Tropical fish were how I got into this hobby, and after 25+ years and a lot of tanks, I still think a freshwater tropical setup is one of the most rewarding things you can do in this hobby. The variety alone is wild. schooling tetras, large cichlids, oddballs, planted tanks, biotopes. There’s genuinely something for every skill level and every taste.

    This guide covers 30 of the most popular tropical species you’ll come across, with honest notes on which ones are truly beginner-friendly and which ones get sold as “easy” but have requirements that can trip you up if you’re not prepared.

    Key Takeaways

    • Tropical fish need an electric heater in their tank to stay warm.
    • There’s a tropical fish species for you, no matter how big your tank and your budget are.
    • Many freshwater tropical fish can live together, but it’s important to research each fish’s temperament and diet to avoid any accidents.
    • Fish aren’t the only amazing creatures that live in fish tanks. Amphibians and invertebrates make great pets too!

    What Are Tropical Freshwater Fish?

    Fish are the most diverse group of vertebrate organisms on the planet (by a long way!), and the tropics have the most variety of all. Freshwater tropical fish are simply the species that come from freshwater bodies like rivers and lakes near the Earth’s equator.

    These areas stay warm throughout the year, and abundant rain creates plenty of habitats for these fish to thrive. Freshwater tropical fish often have bright colors and exotic features, and many of these fish do great in home aquariums, provided we can keep the water in their tank warm like their wild home.

    There are just so many different tropical fish species that we need a way to split them up into different aquarium fish categories. Let’s take a quick look at some of these groups before we get into the different species.

    Schoolers and Shoalers

    Many tropical fish species are highly social, and they live in groups in the wild. These fish either hang out in schools where each individual swims in the same direction and move together, or in shoals, where they stay near each other but do their own thing until it’s time to move on.

    School of Rasboras

    Schooling and shoaling fish make great aquarium fish, but it’s important to keep enough of them to form their own little school and feel safe together.

    Centerpiece Specimens

    Some fish are perfectly happy to live on their own, and these species can make great freshwater aquarium fish too. These fish might be the biggest, coolest fish in a tropical community tank, or have the aquarium all to themself as a ‘wet pet’.

    Centerpiece fish are often more time-consuming fish, but they are also the most rewarding fish you can keep!

    Bottom Dwellers

    Bottom dwellers might sound like an insult to some, but there’s a whole world of amazing freshwater aquarium fish species that spend their lives on the bottom of the tank!

    Pictus Catfish Swimming

    These fish often benefit aquariums by cleaning up scraps and wasted food that the other species miss, and they tend to have really weird and interesting body shapes. However, bottom-dwellers usually favor camouflage over bright colors so that they can blend in with their environments.

    Peaceful vs. Aggressive Types

    Different tropical fish species have different ways of interacting with the other fish. Some fish are highly territorial and do not allow other fish to approach their turf, while others are peaceful and get along great with friends and neighbors.

    Jack Dempsey Fish

    Sometimes aggressive fish can live with other aggressive fish because they are tough enough to defend themselves, but peaceful community fish do not mix well with aggressive or territorial fish. Placing them together will put your prized pets at risk of getting bullied, eaten, or killed!

    Tropical Freshwater Fish Species – 30 Amazing Types!

    Are you ready to learn about some awesome freshwater tropical fish? There are way too many species to cover in this article alone, but let’s start out by getting to know the 30 best types that you can keep. I also included a video from our YouTube Channel to help visualize. Our blog post goes into more details so please look at both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe!

    I’ve included the following important facts about each group to help you decide which fish are best for you:

    • Fish Family
    • Fish Type
    • Temperament
    • Care Level
    • Size Range
    • Special Features

    Here we go!

    1. Arowanas

    Arowana Fish
    • Fish Family: Osteoglossidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Care Level: Expert
    • Size Range: 2 – 3 feet
    • Special Features: Huge size and dragon-like scales

    We’re kicking off this list with a true monster fish, just to show you what is possible in the tropical fish-keeping hobby. Arowanas are time-consuming and expensive aquarium fish that need huge aquariums, but boy are they beautiful!

    These aggressive fish have huge mouths, and that means any fish that is small enough to eat will probably end up as lunch. Nevertheless, these unique tropical fish can make wonderful pets for experienced fishkeepers.

    2. African Cichlids

    Mbuna Cichlids
    • Fish Family: Cichlidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive or aggressive
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Size Range: 1.5 – 16 inches
    • Special Features: Amazing colors and fascinating breeding behaviors

    African Cichlids fall into an in-between category. They make an awesome community species, but they certainly are not peaceful community fish!

    These fish have some of the most vibrant colors in the hobby, and their high activity levels make them the first choice for aquarists who want a busy tropical fish tank.

    African cichlids tend to be highly territorial, and they will fight and even kill each other if you keep the wrong species, in the wrong numbers, or in the wrong tank setup. They also need hard, high-pH water to thrive, so they aren’t the best choice for beginners.

    3. Bettas

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    • Fish Family: Osphronemidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish, Labyrinth fish
    • Temperament: Aggressive to their own kind and fish that look like them
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 2 – 2.5 inches
    • Special Features: Great beginner fish for small aquariums

    There are many wild species of betta fish, but the Betta splendens, or the Siamese fighting fish is the most popular. These awesome little tropical fish are perfect for small aquariums, and you can find them in pretty much any pet store.

    The male betta fish is usually more colorful, but females make great pets too. The most important rule is to keep just one betta fish in a tank, these fish love to fight!

    4. Barbs

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Fish Family: Cyprinidae
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to intermediate
    • Size Range: 2 – 14 inches
    • Special Features: Beautiful fish with glossy scales and a range of colors and patterns

    Aquarium barbs are a popular group of tropical aquarium fish for many reasons. Most are peaceful schooling or shoaling fish that are ideal beginner fish and very affordable. Some, like the tiger barb, can be pretty mean though, and these aren’t always a good choice for community tanks.

    Some of the best species are the cherry barbs, the golden barbs, and the Odessa barbs, but if you have enough room, the tinfoil barb is great too!

    5. Bichirs

    Bichir Fish
    • Fish Family: Polypteridae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dweller/ centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Size Range: up to 20 inches
    • Special Features: Dinosaur-like appearance and large size

    Bichirs are strange, prehistoric-looking tropical fish from Africa. There are several species, although the Senegal bichir is the most popular in the aquarium trade. They will eat any small fish that they can swallow, so keep them with other larger tank mates.

    Bichirs can grow huge, and live for over 40 years with good care. Keeping them healthy in the long term is going to require a huge aquarium and serious commitment. Still, these fish are definitely worth considering if you want a truly unique tropical fish pet!

    6. Cory Catfish

    Corydoras trilineatus
    • Fish Family: Callichthyidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 1 – 4 inches
    • Special Features: Peaceful community fish with fun schooling behavior

    Originally from the tropical waters of South America, the corydoras catfish is now a popular freshwater aquarium fish all over the world. These fish are incredibly peaceful, so they get along great with pretty much every other tropical fish that is not big enough to eat them!

    There are loads of different species, including the tiny pygmy cory and the elegant emerald cory catfish, and all are social schooling fish. That means you’ll need a group of at least 6 of these calm fish to see them at their best.

    7. Danios

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    • Fish Family: Cyprinidae
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 0.8 – 6 inches
    • Special Features: Peaceful, hardy, and energetic fish for community tanks

    Danios are energetic shoaling fish from the same family as barbs and goldfish. There are many species, ranging from the delicate celestial pearl danio to the high-speed zebrafish.

    Most danios are tiny fish, but they can be very active and often need plenty of swimming space.

    8. Discus

    • Fish Family: Cichlidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Size Range: 4 – 8 inches
    • Special Features: Unique disk shape, various breeds with amazing colors

    Few fish have the amazing variety of colors and patterns of the discus fish. These peaceful cichlids are also known as the kings of all freshwater fish in the freshwater hobby. These shy fish need special care, are delicate, and are not recommended for beginners.

    9. Dwarf Cichlids

    Apistogramma cacatuoides
    • Fish Family: Cichlidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers, centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to intermediate
    • Size Range: 2 – 4 inches
    • Special Features: Smaller and more peaceful than larger African and New World cichlids

    The dwarf cichlids have a number of benefits over their larger cousins. These small fish can be kept in just 30 gallons, and they tend to be more peaceful, while still having great looks and interesting behaviors.

    There are many great species of dwarf cichlids in the hobby, but cockatoo cichlids (Apistogramma), rams (Mikrogeophagus), and kribs (Pelvicachromis) are the big names in this group.

    10. Freshwater Angelfish

    Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank
    • Fish Family: Cichlidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 6 inches long & 8 inches tall
    • Special Features: Round, flattened body with huge triangular fins.

    The freshwater angelfish is another peaceful South American cichlid that comes in a variety of breeds. The great thing about these large fish is that they thrive in community aquariums and can even live safely with smaller schooling fish like tetras and rainbow fish.

    11. Freshwater Catfish

    Synodontis Catfish
    • Fish Family: Siluriformes
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to advanced
    • Size Range: 3 inches to 3 feet
    • Special Features: Long cat-like whiskers

    Freshwater catfish are another diverse group of fascinating, and often very large tropical fish. These interesting bottom dwellers rarely have bright colors, but many species have awesome markings and patterns.

    Popular aquarium species include the shoaling transparent glass catfish of Asia, the Synodontis catfish of Africa, which includes the strange upside-down catfish, and the spotted pictus catfish of South America.

    Catfish are generally peaceful fish, although species with large mouths will eat other fish. Some catfish grow really huge, so always do your research before you leave the shop with a baby catfish!

    12. Freshwater Gobies

    Freshwater Goby
    Image Source – Florida Museum
    • Fish Family: Gobiidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful – aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy-moderate
    • Size Range: 2 – 24 inches
    • Special Features: Interesting oddball fish

    Gobies are one of the most diverse groups of fish on the planet, and yet there are few species available in the freshwater aquarium trade.

    Fortunately, these interesting fish are becoming more popular, and today you can find everything from small, brightly colored algae eaters to large, dangerous-looking creatures like the dragon goby.

    Many of the popular freshwater aquarium gobies will do best in brackish conditions, so make sure the species you choose will be happy in your tank.

    13. Freshwater Eels

    Indian Mud Moray Eel
    • Fish Family: Mastacembelidae etc.
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Size Range: 8 – 40 inches
    • Special Features: Snake-like body and interesting markings

    There are a few groups of freshwater eels in the aquarium, and many of them are not true eels at all! The most popular types are from a fascinating group of snake-like fish that include the tire-track, fire, and spiny eels.

    These odd-ball fish come from Africa and Asia, and they make a fascinating centerpiece or bottom dweller fish in many tropical aquarium types.

    14. Freshwater Sharks

    What does a rainbow shark look like
    • Fish Family: Cyprinidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Moderate to advanced
    • Size Range: 5 – 14 inches
    • Special Features: Dramatic shark-like fins and body shape

    Freshwater sharks are a group of popular tropical fish that don’t exactly live up to their more iconic saltwater fish namesake. While they may have a shark-like body shape, these fish do not have the sharp teeth or leathery skin of true sharks.

    The most popular freshwater sharks are rainbow sharks, bala sharks, and red-tail sharks. Some of these fish have naturally bold colors, but check out the Glofish Sharks if you want a fish that really shines!

    15. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray
    • Fish Family: Potamotrygonidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dweller
    • Temperament: Peaceful but potentially dangerous
    • Care Level: Advanced
    • Size Range: 30 – 36 inches
    • Special Features: Strange body shape and interactive personality

    You might be shocked to learn that freshwater stingrays exist, and even more shocked to discover they make great pets!

    However, these unusual fish are not going to fit in your standard aquarium. They are some of the most expensive aquarium fish, and their care requires high experience levels.

    Stingrays require a huge floor space, but they don’t need much depth. These flat fish can be kept in indoor ponds where they become very tame and often take food from the hand. Of course, stingrays can sting, so keeping these creatures does come with some risks.

    16. Freshwater Puffers

    Green Spotted Pufferfish in Aquarium
    • Fish Family: Tetraodontidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive to aggressive
    • Care Level: Intermediate to Advanced
    • Size Range: 1 – 30 inches
    • Special Features: Unusual looks and swimming style

    Freshwater pufferfish are another unusual group of fish that you would expect to find on a saltwater fish list. In fact, there are many freshwater species, and these adorable creatures can make wonderful pets once you understand their needs and behavior.

    Freshwater puffers need hard-shelled foods to keep their sharp teeth worn down, and most species are not safe for community tanks.

    17. Gouramis

    Sunset Gourami Fish
    • Fish Family: Osphronemidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to intermediate
    • Size Range: 1.5 – 28 inches
    • Special Features: Beautiful colors and long feeler-like pelvic fins

    Gourami fish range from the tiny sparkling gourami, perfect for nano aquariums, to the mighty giant gourami, a gentle monster that makes a wonderful pet if given the room it needs. Gouramis are part of the same family as betta fish, and they have the same interesting air-breathing abilities.

    Gouramis are a great centerpiece fish for a tropical fish tank. The range of different colors, shapes, and sizes means there’s a gourami species for anyone!

    18. Guppies

    Guppy Fish
    Guppy Fish

    An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

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    • Fish Family: Poeciliidae
    • Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Special Features: Hardy beginner fish that’s easy to breed

    Guppies are colorful fish, and they have been bred into many different types with various patterns and fin shapes. These peaceful fish add color and movement to virtually every level of a freshwater tank, and their affordability and hardiness make the an ideal choice for first-time fish keepers.

    Guppies are the most common of the livebearers, a group of fish that give birth to live young instead of laying eggs. This means they are super easy to breed, which can be a really fun hobby.

    19. Hatchetfish

    Marble Hachet Fish
    • Fish Family: Gasteropelecidae
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Intermediate to advanced
    • Size Range: 1.75 – 3.5 inches
    • Special Features: Strange flattened body shape and surface-dwelling habits

    The hatchetfish is an interesting tropical fish that spends its life up at the surface of the tank. These fish escape predators by jumping out of the water, which means they need a really secure lid to prevent them from escaping onto the floor of your fish room!

    20. Killifish

    Gardneri Killifish in Planted Tank
    • Fish Family: Aplocheilidae, Valenciidae, Cyprinodontidae, Fundulidae, Profundulidae
    • Fish Type: Shoaling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to moderate
    • Size Range: 1.5 – 5.5 inches
    • Special Features: surface-dwelling fish with amazing colors

    Killifish are colorful nano fish that make fascinating pets and can thrive in tanks as small as 5 or 10 gallons. Like the hatchet fish, killis are generally surface-dwelling fish, and they can easily escape an open-top aquarium.

    21. Loaches

    How Does a Kuhli Loach Look Like
    • Fish Family: Cobitoidea superfamily
    • Fish Type: Bottom dweller
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy to moderate
    • Size Range: 1 – 12 inches
    • Special Features: whisker-like barbels and a variety of colors and patterns.

    Loaches range from tiny eel-like fish to large colorful schooling species. They all have adorable and fascinating behaviors, and they can make great pets with heaps of personality. Most loaches are tropical fish, but some species like the dojo loach prefer their water a little cooler.

    Loaches are generally peaceful creatures that search for food on the bottom of the tank. They are social fish too, so pick up a small group to keep them feeling comfortable in your aquarium.

    22. Mollies

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Fish Family: Poeciliidae
    • Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 3 – 7 inches
    • Special Features: Hardy fish with many color morphs and fin shapes

    Mollies are excellent tropical fish for everyone from beginners to experienced fish keepers. These North and Central American livebearers are hardy fish that can live in fresh, brackish, and even saltwater aquariums!

    Mollies get along well with other fish, making them ideal for community aquariums. There are three popular species in the aquarium trade, with a variety of popular breeds such as the stunning Sailfin, the elegant lyretail, and the strange balloon molly.

    23. New World Cichlids

    Tiger Oscar Fish
    • Fish Family: Cichlidae
    • Fish Type: Centerpiece fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful to aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy to advanced
    • Size Range: 2 – 12 inches
    • Special Features: Great colors and personality

    The New World Cichlids are a diverse group of tropical fish from Texas through Central and South America. These fish include the shy and colorful dwarf cichlids, the fascinating earth-eaters (Geophagus), and popular large wet pets like Oscar fish, Midas Cichlids, and Jack Dempseys.

    There are so many species with different shapes, colors, and personalities that it’s impossible to describe them all here. However, one thing we can say is that there’s a great New World Cichlid for any freshwater aquarium!

    24. Platies

    Golden Wagtail Platy
    • Fish Family: Poeciliidae
    • Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 2 – 3 inches
    • Special Features: Peaceful community species that is easy to breed

    Platies are another wonderful live-bearing species from Mexico and Central America. At two to three inches, these fish are in between the size of the guppy and the molly, and they can be kept with both species in awesome livebearer community tanks.

    There are two platy species available in the hobby, but these fish have been selectively bred to produce a huge variety of colorful and interesting breeds like the sunset, Mickey Mouse, and wagtail platies.

    25. Plecostomus

    Bristlenose Pleco
    Bristlenose Pleco

    The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

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    • Fish Family: Loricariidae
    • Fish Type: Bottom dweller
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy to intermediate
    • Size Range: 2 to 20 inches
    • Special Features: Armored body and various intricate patterns

    Plecostomus catfish, or just plecos for short, are a large group of South American Catfish that hang out on the bottom of lakes and rivers and graze on rocks and driftwood. Plecos are great algae eaters for large aquariums, and they will help to clean the glass and other surfaces of Your tank.

    There are hundreds of different pleco species out there, ranging from small pleco species like the strange-looking bristlenose at just 4 inches to the impressive common pleco that can reach 20 inches!

    26. Rainbowfish

    Rainbow Fish in Planted Tank
    • Fish Family: Melanotaeniidae, Pseudomugilidae, etc.
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 1.5 – 6 inches
    • Special Features: Bright colors and peaceful personality

    Rainbowfish are a colorful group of tropical fish from Australia and Southeast Asia. They range in size from nano species like the spotted blue-eye rainbow at just 1.5 inches, to medium-sized fish like the popular boesemani rainbowfish.

    These active fish thrive in community aquariums with great water quality and suitable tank mates. The larger species will need a tank in the 55-gallon class, but nano types can be kept in a well-planted tank of just 10 gallons or more.

    27. Rasboras

    How Do Harlequin Rasboras Look Like
    • Fish Family: Cyprinidae
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 0.7 – 3 inches
    • Special Features: Beautiful fish for nano and community aquariums

    Rasboras are a group of tropical fish that includes some of the smallest and most popular species in the hobby.

    Many of these Asian species are ideal beginner fish, and the tiny Boraras species like the chili rasbora are one of the few schooling fish that can thrive in a 5-gallon aquarium.

    28. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Fish Family: Poeciliidae
    • Fish Type: Shoaling fish, livebearer
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 5 – 6 inches
    • Special Features: Bright colors and long, sword-like tail

    Swordtails are one of the larger tropical livebearer species and a great community tankmate for a variety of other fish. They are active freshwater fish that add a flash of color and movement to any aquarium.

    Swordtail fish come in various shades of orange, yellow, and pink, and they can have various tail shapes. These fish breed regularly in the home aquarium, so get ready to see loads of little ones if you keep males and females together.

    29. Suckermouth Catfish and other Algae Eaters

    Otocinclus Catfish
    Otocinclus Catfish

    A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

    Click For Best Price
    • Fish Family: Various
    • Fish Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy to intermediate
    • Size Range: 2- 8 inches
    • Special Features: Excellent algae control for planted tanks

    The plecostomus catfish aren’t the only algae-eating fish in the aquarium world. Many other tropical fish will happily graze on your aquarium glass, hardscape, and plants, and the best part is that they make fascinating pets in their own right!

    Look out for Otocinclus catfish (the best choice for nano aquariums), farlowella catfish (strange, twig-like bottom-dwellers), Siamese algae eaters, and flying foxes if you’re looking for great clean-up crew species for your tank.

    30. Tetras

    Cardinal Tetra Fish
    • Fish Family: Characidae
    • Fish Type: Schooling fish
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 0.75 – 3 inches
    • Special Features: Dazzling colors and amazing schooling behavior

    Tetras are the perfect fish for peaceful communities and planted aquascapes. There are many wonderful species available in the hobby, ranging from the world-famous neon tetra to slightly larger fish like the Congo Tetra of tropical Africa.

    Tetras are schooling or shoaling fish, and they need the company of their own species to swim confidently and show their best colors. Add a school of at least 8 of these fish to your tank and enjoy these rewarding fish!

    Other Creatures

    Fish are the first animals that come to mind when we think about aquariums, but did you know that all sorts of other strange and beautiful creatures can live in a fish tank? Let’s check them out!

    1. Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater Shrimp
    Freshwater Shrimp

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.

    Click For Best Price Buy WYSIWYG
    • Family: Atyidae
    • Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy to moderate
    • Size Range: 1 – 2 inches
    • Special Features: Wide range of breeds in various colors

    Freshwater shrimp have become super popular in the aquarium hobby, and it’s easy to see why! There are many different breeds and species available, and they come in just about any color you can think of.

    Freshwater shrimp are very peaceful creatures, and they are fascinating to watch as they feed and explore. Unfortunately, most fish will pick on freshwater shrimp or even swallow them whole, so it’s best to keep them in their own tank or with vegetarian species like the otocinclus catfish.

    2. Aquarium Snails

    Golden Apple Snail
    • Family: Ampullariidae, Neritidae, etc.
    • Type: Bottom-dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 1 – 4 inches
    • Special Features: Excellent clean-up crew and algae control animals

    Aquarium Snails are another excellent aquarium invertebrate for tropical aquariums. These slow-moving creatures do great work in our tanks by eating algae, cleaning up waste, and eating leftover fish food. However, some species tend to multiply really fast!

    There are many aquarium snails that do not breed in our fish tanks, and these are usually the best choices. Choose the neatly patterned and colored nerite snails if you want a small, algae-busting machine, or the much larger mystery snail for a cool display animal.

    3. Aquarium Crabs

    Red Claw Crab
    • Family: Ocypodidae etc.
    • Type: Bottom dwellers
    • Temperament: Peaceful to semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Size Range: 0.4 – 1 inches
    • Special Features: Fascinating and unusual aquarium inhabitants

    Crabs are not very common in the freshwater aquarium world, although there are some great species available if you know where to look.

    Many aquarium crabs require a paludarium setup, which is a tank that incorporates both water and dry land. However, there are some fully aquatic options too like the pom-pom crab and the tiny Thai micro crabs.

    4. Dwarf African Frogs

    How Does an African Dwarf Frog Look Like
    • Family: Pipidae
    • Type: Bottom-dwellers/centerpiece pets
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Size Range: 2 inches
    • Special Features: Fully aquatic frog that can live in a small aquarium

    African dwarf frogs are adorable little creatures that spend their whole lives in the water. However, they must swim to the surface to breathe air because they do not have gills like fish.

    These social creatures should be kept in groups of two or more, preferably in a shallow aquarium. They are tropical creatures, so they need an aquarium heater and an aquarium filter to keep their water warm and clean.

    5. Crayfish

    Blue Crayfish
    • Family: Cambaridae etc.
    • Type: Bottom dweller
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 1 – 6 inches
    • Special Features: Bright colors and unique body shape

    Freshwater crayfish are probably the most colorful freshwater aquarium invertebrates in the hobby. These cool crustaceans have powerful claws, and they will use them on unsuspecting fish, so their tank mates need to be chosen with care!

    6. Axolotls

    Leucistic Axolotl
    • Family: Ambystomatidae
    • Type: Centerpiece pet
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Size Range: 9 – 12 inches
    • Special Features: Strange spiky gills and a smiling face

    We’ve saved the strangest tropical fish tank inhabitant for last. The Axolotl is also known as the Mexican walking fish, but this creature is not a fish at all!

    Axolotls are fully aquatic salamanders that do great in fish tanks. These interesting animals are not truly tropical though, so give them their own tank with stable water temperatures of 60-64°F to keep them cool and comfortable.

    FAQs

    What fish are considered tropical fish?

    Tropical fish are any species that come from a warm part of the world. There is no hard rule about the exact temperatures, but most species are comfortable in 74 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.

    These fish usually require an electric aquarium heater to keep their water temperature in the right range, unless you live in a tropical part of the world.

    Are tropical fish hard to keep?

    Tropical freshwater fish species are among the easiest type of fish to keep and the best option for beginners to the aquarium hobby. Of course, each fish species has its own care requirements, and some are much easier than others.

    All species need a big enough tank, good aquarium filtration, and a balanced diet. Most of the popular small fish species will thrive on a simple flake food diet supplemented with live or frozen foods like brine shrimp.

    What fish should I put in my tropical tank?

    The great thing about tropical fish is the huge variety of species available. There are a couple of questions to ask yourself before choosing fish for your aquarium.

    Is my aquarium big enough for this fish?
    Will this fish get along with my other fish?
    Can I provide the right care and food for this fish?
    Do I like the look and behavior of this species?

    If you can answer yes to all of those questions, you might just have the perfect species for your tank!

    What is the most popular tropical fish?

    Guppies, bettas, and tetras are probably the most popular tropical fish species in the world. Of course, with so many amazing fish species available, most aquarists have their own lists of favorite fish!

    What is the most hardy tropical fish?

    Zebra danios and Livebearers like mollies and guppies are considered especially hardy tropical fish that are great for beginners. However, all fish species deserve the best water quality, care, and diet that you can provide.

    Final Thoughts

    Well, there you have it folks, 30 amazing tropical fish types, and 6 other fascinating aquatic creatures for your fish tank. We fishkeepers really are spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing our pets.

    Oh, and remember, we have loads of in-depth articles on many of these species on our website, so get browsing for more information!

    What’s your favorite tropical fish type? Let us know in the comments below!

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Yellow Lab Cichlid Care Guide: One of the Best MBunas for Beginners

    Yellow Lab Cichlid Care Guide: One of the Best MBunas for Beginners

    Table of Contents

    Yellow lab cichlids are the best mbuna for beginners, but beginner friendly does not mean easy. They still need hard, alkaline water, proper overstocking to manage aggression, and a rock structure that prevents line of sight between males. Skip any of those and you will see aggression, stress, and faded color. I have recommended yellow labs as a first African cichlid for over 20 years, but only to people willing to set up the tank correctly first. The on-ramp to the African cichlid addiction that hooks everyone.

    The on-ramp to the African cichlid addiction that hooks everyone.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Yellow Lab Cichlid

    The number one mistake I see with yellow labs is people buying them thinking they’re a peaceful community fish because of their color and relatively calm reputation. They’re still mbuna. They’re still territorial. And in a tank that’s too small or under-stocked, they’ll bully other fish just like any other mbuna would. The “peaceful mbuna” label is relative. They’re peaceful compared to kenyi or auratus, not compared to tetras or corydoras. The other common issue is hybridization. Yellow labs readily crossbreed with other mbuna in mixed tanks, producing dull hybrid offspring that dilute the beautiful yellow coloring that made them popular in the first place.

    That said, “easy to keep” only holds true if you’re running the right conditions. Hard, alkaline water, a low-protein diet to avoid Malawi bloat, and proper territory structure in the tank. Get those right and yellow labs are an absolute pleasure to keep. Here’s everything you need to know.

    The Reality of Keeping Yellow Lab Cichlid

    Yellow Labs are the most recommended beginner mbuna for good reason. But even the easiest African cichlid comes with requirements you cannot skip.

    They need hard, alkaline water. Lake Malawi chemistry means pH between 7.8 and 8.6, high GH, and high KH. If your tap water is soft and acidic, you need to buffer it. Every water change. No exceptions.

    They are herbivores. Yellow Labs need a spirulina-based diet. Feeding them high-protein foods like bloodworms regularly leads to Malawi Bloat, which is often fatal. Stick to spirulina flakes and algae-based pellets.

    Males color up, females stay pale. Only male Yellow Labs develop that intense electric yellow color. Females are duller and more subdued. If you want a tank full of bright yellow fish, you need males, but too many males means fighting.

    Overstocking is part of the strategy. With mbuna, you overstock to spread aggression. A tank with three Yellow Labs will have one bully and two victims. A tank with 12 will have distributed aggression and happier fish. But overstocking demands heavy filtration.

    Biggest Mistake New Yellow Lab Cichlid Owners Make

    Feeding them protein-heavy foods. Yellow Labs are herbivores, and Malawi Bloat from improper diet kills more labs than anything else. Spirulina flakes and veggie pellets. That is the foundation. No bloodworms as a staple.

    Expert Take

    Start with a group of 8 to 12 in a 55 gallon tank. Use crushed coral or aragonite substrate to buffer pH naturally. Feed spirulina-based food exclusively. This simple setup will give you one of the most vibrant, active tanks in the hobby.

    Key Takeaways

    • The Yellow lab cichlid is a mouthbrooder. Meaning the female carries fertilized eggs and fry in her mouth until they are big enough to survive on their own. 
    • They are carnivores in the wild and feed on small invertebrates and algae. However, in captivity, they are omnivores and eat a varied diet.
    • They have been selectively bred resulting in a range of different colors and patterns
    • The male yellow lab cichlid is larger in size and more colorful than its female counterparts.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameLabidochromis caeruleus
    Common NamesYellow Lab, Electric yellow cichlid, lemon drop cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginEast African Central Western coastal region of Lake Malawi
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityMedium
    Lifespan8 to 10 years
    TemperamentSemi-Aggressive
    Tank LevelBottom
    Minimum Tank Size30 gallons
    Temperature Range76 – 82°F
    Water Hardness10-20 dGH
    pH Range7.8 to 8.6
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer/Mouthbrooder
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityLimited, African Cichlid only
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    Classification

    KingdomAnimalia
    PhylumChordata
    ClassActinopterygii
    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    GenusLabidochromis
    SpeciesL. Caeruleus (Fryer, 1956)

    Brief Introduction

    Yellow lab cichlids, commonly known as Electric yellow cichlids and yellow labs are popular freshwater fish that originates from Lake Malawi in East Africa.

    They are known for their super bright yellow coloration and smaller fish size that is easy to maintain and a treat to watch in your home aquariums. Yellow lab cichlids are beginner friendly fish with unique breeding behavior where the male fish establishes and defends its territories and females lay their eggs on flat surfaces.

    Overall, yellow lab cichlids are an excellent and beautiful addition to your home aquariums that add opulence and life wherever they go.

    Origin & Habitat

    The electric yellow cichlids are found in the rocky banks and heavily vegetated regions of Lake Malawi. Originally, the yellow lab cichlid is from the Nkata Bay of Lake Malawi, which is the home of other African Cichlids. In their natural habitat, these fish mostly dwell in the rocks and reaches a length of around 8 inches.

    By the end of 1986, the yellow African cichlid was available to buy for aquarium hobbyists. Shortly after, they became popular freshwater fish known for their aesthetic appearance and peaceful nature (for an African Cichlid).

    The name, Labidochromis Caeruleus, was given to a blue fish because it was discovered blue in color. However, the yellow color morph was later found along the North East coast of African lakes, now known as electric yellow cichlids1.

    Map showing Lake Malawi and the African Great Lakes region
    Map by MellonDor, CC BY-SA 4.0, via Wikimedia Commons

    Appearance

    The Yellow Lab Cichlid’s body is a bright yellow in color, giving them a stunning look. They have an extended, thin body structure, a head that is somewhat pointed, and a prominent forehead. They have longer fins as well, with the dorsal fin reaching all the way back to the tail. Males often outweigh females in size and color, with brighter yellow coloring and longer fins. Females often have a paler color and are smaller.

    Yellow Lab Cichlid in Aquarium

    The young Yellow lab cichlids may have somewhat different patterns from those of adults, but they fade as they get older. Furthermore, some breeders have deliberately bred these fish in an effort to improve particular characteristics, including fin form or color, leading to a variety of various strains and varieties. The Yellow Lab Cichlid is a stunning fish that can give a splash of color to any aquarium

    Average Adult Size

    The yellow lab cichlids are small fish that grow around a maximum of 5 inches in length for males. The female electric yellow cichlid grows around 3 to 4 inches. However, in some rare cases, they may grow around 6 inches and over, depending on their diet, water quality, and tank size.

    Lifespan

    The life expectancy of yellow lab cichlids is around 8 to 10 years in captivity. But, they may live for up to 12 years, provided with proper care, a healthy diet, and water conditions.

    Food & Diet

    Yellow lab cichlids are carnivorous fish in the wild. However, in captivity, they are omnivores. Therefore, their diet should mainly be protein based. High quality fish flakes and fish pellets that are formulated for African cichlids are highly recommended. You can also feed them premium quality frozen foods such as brine shrimp, bloodworms, and krill as occasional treats.

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    Additionally, it’s important to add plant-based treats to your yellow lab cichlid’s diet, including zucchini, shelled peas, spinach, and lettuce. This food provides necessary nutritional benefits and helps them in consuming a varied diet.

    How Often Do You Feed Yellow Lab Cichlids and How Much?

    Avoid overfeeding your yellow lab cichlid and maintain a proper schedule to feed yellow lab cichlids as they overeat and become overweight, leading to health issues. It’s recommended to feed them a small amount of food only twice or thrice a day.

    Anything they can consume within two to three minutes is a general rule of thumb to feed yellow lab cichlids.

    Temperament and Behavior

    Overall the yellow labs are a species of peaceful and shy cichlid, but during the breeding process, they will become aggressive and territorial. It’s recommended to keep a group of 6 or more fish to alleviate their aggression toward other fish.

    Yellow lab cichlids are also active swimmers and appreciate lots of hiding places and open spaces in their fish tanks. Since they are known for their digging behavior, it’s important to supply their tank with plenty of decorations and high-quality substrate.

    Yellow Lab Cichlid Tank Mates

    Yellow lab cichlids are mildly peaceful fish that are compatible with other like-minded fish species. Therefore, it’s crucial to choose suitable tank mates for yellow lab cichlids.

    Some of the best-suited tank mates for electric yellow cichlids are:

    1. Other African cichlids species, including yellow tail Acei cichlids, Peacock cichlids, Red Zebra cichlids, Johanni cichlids, blue dolphin cichlids
    2. Synodontis catfish
    3. Jewel Cichlid
    4. Red Tail Sharks

    Tank Mates to Avoid

    Here are the tank mates you should always avoid keeping with yellow lab cichlids.

    1. Aggressive, larger fish that are territorial. For example, Red Devil cichlid, Jaguar cichlid, Green Terror cichlid, Oscars, or Arowanas.
    2. Nippy fish, including some species of barbs and tetras.
    3. Small invertebrates, such as shrimp or snails.
    4. Any fish incompatible with their pH requirements

    Complete Care Guide

    Yellow lab cichlids are colorful fish that are easy to care for. Despite being low maintenance, they demand basic tank and water requirements to thrive in captivity.

    They are also omnivores in captivity, so a varied diet is essential, along with color-enhancing commercial foods to maintain their vibrant colors.

    Like all other cichlids, they require regular maintenance and upkeep with stable water parameters to remain happy and healthy. Let’s dive it Yellow Lab Cichlid Care below.

    Tank Requirements

    Here are the basic tank requirements to provide a suitable and comfortable environment for your yellow lab cichlid.

    Tank Size

    Since yellow lab cichlids are community fish that thrive with their other cichlids and compatible fish of different species, a tank size of at least 30 gallons is the bare minimum. However, long term this will cause problems with territorial aggression.

    If you want to have a group of around 8 to 12 cichlids, a larger tank or around 55 gallons is a good size.

    55 Gallon Aquarium
    55 Gallon Aquarium

    The 55-gallon aquarium is a great budget-friendly larger tank. It often goes on sale at chain pet stores.

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    Live Plants

    Yellow lab cichlids are active fish and are known to be aggressive toward live plants. Therefore, live plants are not the best choice for your electric yellow cichlids.

    However, if you still want to keep live plants for the sake of their beautiful aesthetics, there are some options that are “cichlid-proof”. These include:

    1. Anubias
    2. Java Fern
    3. Vallisneria
    4. Amazon Sword
    5. Crinum
    6. Echinodorus
    7. Cryptocorynes

    While some of these plants will get beat up or eaten, the most bulletproof against these cichlids would be Anubias and Java fern.

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    Java Fern
    Java Fern

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    Tank Decorations

    The yellow lab cichlid prefers a tank with caves and enough hiding spots. You can pile rocks into the bottom of the tank, especially when your fish are spawning. That’s because yellow lab cichlids are native to Lake Malawi where there are lots of rocks to build their territories. However, make sure the rocks are not pointed enough to hurt your finned pets.

    Other recommended tank decorations are:

    1. Limestone rocks (get for maintaining pH and hardness)
    2. Plastic plants
    3. Terracotta pots
    4. Ceramic caves
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    Texas Holey Rock Natural Limestone
    Texas Holey Rock Natural Limestone

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    Substrate

    Yellow lab cichlids stay at the bottom of the tank, so the choice of premium substrate is crucial.

    You can use sand as the best option because Lake Malawi’s bottom is covered in sand. Therefore, using sand will replicate their natural habitat and keep them happy.

    Additionally, crushed coral helps maintain the pH levels in your tank by releasing Calcium carbonate into the water. Thus, it’s also a great option for the substrate. Fine gravel can also be used as a substrate.

    Great For African Cichlids
    Carib Sea Aragamax Sand
    Carib Sea Aragamax Sand

    Boosts pH

    Aragamax is great for African setups as it keeps pH and hardness levels stable

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    If you want to keep your tank bare bottom for easy maintenance and cleaning, you can do that too. However, it will be unnatural and uncomfortable for your Yellow labs.

    Is the Yellow Lab Cichlid Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • The best beginner mbuna, hands down. If you want to try African cichlids and start with Malawi mbuna, this is the species to begin with.
    • Brilliant electric yellow color. Few freshwater fish offer this intensity of yellow. They genuinely pop in any setup.
    • Still need a proper mbuna setup. Minimum 55 gallons with lots of rock work, alkaline water, and appropriate stocking levels.
    • Best kept with other mild-mannered mbuna or peacocks. Avoid mixing with highly aggressive mbuna species that will outcompete them.
    • Not suitable for standard community tanks. Despite being calm for mbuna, they’re still too territorial for most tropical community setups.
    • Easy to breed but hard to keep pure. They’ll hybridize with other mbuna, so keep species separated if you want to maintain pure lines.

    Tank Maintenance

    Though Yellow Labs fish are hardy and require little maintenance but regular tank cleaning and maintenance are required to keep them healthy for a long.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Proper filtration is an important step to maintaining a healthy ecosystem for your Yellow lab cichlid.

    I recommend installing a filter that is suitable for your tank size and the number of fish you have. Any filter with a turnover rate of around 4 to 6 times the tank volume per hour is ideal for Yellow lab cichlids. You can choose a canister filter, HOB, or sponge filter. However, it’s crucial to clean and replace the filter media regularly.

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    Fluval FX Series

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    I also advise putting an air pump or wavemaker in the tank as these species love a well-oxygenated environment. Essentially, you can use sponge filters as they provide filtration and aeration both.

    Water Parameters

    The ideal water parameters for yellow lab cichlids are as follows:

    Water temperature: Between 76-82°F

    pH range: 7.8 to 8.6

    Water hardness: 10-20 dGH

    Tank Maintenance

    Tank maintenance is the key to a healthy aquarium. It’s crucial to maintain water temperature. Therefore, I recommend investing in an aquarium thermometer and quality heater to monitor the temperature.

    You should perform weekly 25% to 30% water changes to prevent the buildup of fish waste or toxins. In addition to water changes, cleaning the filter and gravel is also important to remove uneaten food and debris.

    Breeding

    Fun Fact: Yellow lab cichlids are mouth breeders, meaning they keep their young in their mouths until they are ready to hatch.

    To reduce the tension in females, I recommend keeping 1 male for every 3 to 6 females. Even though the yellow labs are passive for a cichlid, they will become territorial during breeding.

    Here’s how you breed them in a separate tank.

    1. Separate the mature females and one male in a breeding tank.
    2. Fill in the tank with cold water to drop the temperature and stimulate mating.
    3. Feed them protein rich, high quality food free of hormones or unnatural color enhancers
    4. After spawning, when the fry hatch and are free swimming, separate the mother into another tank.
    5. Feed the fry high quality protein rich food to promote healthy growth.

    Fish Diseases

    Unlike many African cichlids, the electric yellow cichlid is very hardy and less susceptible to Malawi bloat. However, if the water temperature and water conditions are not in pristine conditions, they may be infected with Ich, skin flukes, and other parasitic infections, fungal infections, and bacterial infections. 

    Therefore, it is necessary to maintain water conditions as per the fish’s preferences and feed them high-quality diet to avoid those diseases.

    FAQs

    Are Yellow Labs Cichlids Aggressive?

    No, Yellow Lab Cichlids are not overly aggressive fish. However, they becomes territorial and semi-aggressive in a small tank with 2 or more males. 

    Are Yellow Lab Cichlids good for beginners?

    Yes, they are ideal for beginners because they are hardy, beautiful, and tolerate a wide range of water conditions. Also, they are peaceful fish as long as you provide them with the right environment and suitable tank mates.

    How Much Do Yellow Lab Cichlids Cost?

    The total cost of Yellow lab cichlid depends on a variety of factors, including size, age, quality, etc. On average, young fish may cost you around $5 to $10 per fish. However, adult breeding pairs will cost between $20 to $30.

    How Big Do Yellow Lab Cichlids Get?

    They are small-to-medium-sized fish that grow approximately 4 to 5 inches in length. The male Yellow Lab Cichlids are slightly larger and more colorful than the females.

    How long do they live?

    The average lifespan of yellow lab cichlids is 8 to 10 years in captivity.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Yellow Lab Cichlid

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They are always moving. Yellow Labs are active, curious fish that patrol every inch of the tank. They pick at rocks, sift through substrate, and interact with each other constantly. A mbuna tank is never boring.

    The yellow really pops. Under the right lighting, a dominant male Yellow Lab is one of the most intensely colored freshwater fish you will ever see. That electric yellow against a dark rock background is stunning.

    They breed like rabbits. Yellow Labs are maternal mouthbrooders that breed readily in captivity. If you have males and females, you will have babies. Lots of babies. Have a plan for the fry.

    They establish a hierarchy fast. Within days of adding Yellow Labs to a tank, a dominant male emerges. He gets the best territory, the most color, and first dibs on food. Subordinate males stay paler and stick to the edges.

    How the Yellow Lab Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

    The most relevant comparison is with peacock cichlids. Both are Lake Malawi natives, but they occupy different niches. Yellow labs are rock-dwelling mbuna that need lots of stone structure and are herbivorous. Peacocks are open-water swimmers that prefer sandy substrates and eat more protein. Yellow labs are more aggressive pound-for-pound, but their smaller size (4-5 inches vs. 6-7 for peacocks) means they’re less physically imposing. For beginners, yellow labs are easier to find and cheaper, but peacocks offer more color variety. They is mixed in larger tanks (75+ gallons), but you need to make sure the yellow labs don’t harass the more docile peacocks.

    The kribensis cichlid is worth considering if you want a colorful, smaller cichlid but aren’t committed to a full Malawi setup. Kribs are West African, tolerate a wider range of water parameters, and work in more traditional community tanks. They’re not as intensely colored as yellow labs but they’re far more versatile in terms of tank setup options.

    Final Thoughts

    The Yellow lab cichlid is a beautiful freshwater fish that stays happily in a community tank of like-minded fish species. Despite being beautiful, hardy, and low maintenance, they are beginner friendly. Hence, if you’re new to the aquarium hobby, congratulations on finding your perfect bright finned pal! 

    Lake Malawi Cichlid Species Directory

    This article is part of our Lake Malawi Cichlid Species Directory: Complete A-Z Care Guide List. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 28 Lake Malawi cichlid species we cover.

  • 21 Types of African Cichlids: An Honest Guide to the Best Species

    21 Types of African Cichlids: An Honest Guide to the Best Species

    African cichlids are some of the most visually stunning fish in freshwater. I’ve always said they’re the closest thing to a saltwater display you can get without the saltwater complexity. I’ve set up Malawi and Tanganyika tanks over the years and both have their own distinct character. This guide covers the species I find most interesting and most manageable.

    African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish on the planet. and I’ve been keeping them for decades across everything from Lake Malawi mbuna setups to Lake Tanganyika shellies. The diversity is staggering: over 1,600 species, wildly different temperaments, and care requirements that vary significantly by species. This guide covers 21 of the best choices I’d actually recommend, with honest notes on what makes each one work (or not) in a home aquarium.

    Key Takeaways

    • African cichlids are some of the most colorful, active, and exotic freshwater fish. They look a lot like tropical reef fish at first glance.
    • Most species come from the hard alkaline waters of Lake Victoria, Tanganyika, and Malawi.
    • Many African cichlids are highly territorial and aggressive, so choose tank mates carefully.
    • Other African cichlids make the best tank mates, but not all species are compatible.
    • Pay close attention to your cichlid’s diet. Many species need a mostly vegetarian diet, and high-protein fish food can cause health problems.

    Major Groups

    African cichlids are a diverse group of freshwater fish found all over the African continent. They range in size from the diminutive 2-inch shell-dwellers to the emperor cichlid that reaches 3 feet!

    Most of the popular African cichlids in the aquarium hobby come from Lake Malawi, although there are many famous species from Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria too.

    African cichlids are usually grouped into a few main categories. Let’s take a look at the most popular groups:

    Mbunas

    The mbuna cichlids are some of the most popular African Cichlids in the hobby. These small to medium-sized fish are hardy, colorful, and active. However, mbuna cichlids have a dark side too.

    Mbuna Cichlids

    These fish are highly territorial and can be very aggressive toward other fish. The males are the most aggressive, and they tend to attack other males of their own species or other similar-looking fish.

    Ideally, you should keep them in a species-only setup with one male and a few females, or in a heavily stocked mixed mbuna tank that does not allow enough space for individual territories.

    Mbuna’s come from Lake Malawi and are mostly herbivorous. They will eat some meaty fish food, but too much is very bad for their health.

    Peacocks

    Peacock Cichlids are awesome African cichlids from the Aulonocara genus. The males are some of the most colorful freshwater fish on the planet, although females tend to be drab and mostly brown or gray.

    Blue Peacock Cichlid

    These fish come from Lake Malawi, just like the Mbunas, but that doesn’t mean the two groups make ideal tank mates.

    Peacock cichlids are mostly carnivorous, and they are less aggressive than Mbunas. The differences in diet and the likelihood of fighting make it better to ‘pick a side’ in most cases.

    Peacock cichlids are pretty easy to breed, but you should take care to avoid cross-breeding them with similar species. The females look very similar, so keep just one species in your tank to avoid confusion.

    Haps

    Haps are a diverse group of generally larger carnivorous African cichlids. They are fairly peaceful fish, but many of them of piscivorous which means they will eat any tank mates small enough to swallow.

    Hap Cichlid

    Haps need a large tank with plenty of swimming space to really thrive. Many species will require over a hundred gallons, but there are options for a 75-gallon tank.

    Tropheus

    These popular Lake Tanganyika cichlids are similar in behavior to the mbunas of Lake Malawi. There are about 8 species and they prefer to live in rocky areas, especially with plenty of caves and other hiding spots.

    Tropheus Cichlid

    These African cichlids make fascinating pets in the home aquarium but are highly aggressive and territorial. Tropheus are mostly vegetarian and require a daily supply of spirulina flakes and the occasional supplement of meaty foods like mysis and brine shrimp.

    Shell Dwellers

    African cichlids tend to be medium to large freshwater fish, and most species need a medium to large fish tank. Fortunately, there is a group of dwarf cichlid species that can live in tanks as small as 10 gallons!

    Shell Dwelling Cichlid by Cave

    The shell-dwellers are a fascinating group of African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika that live and breed in the empty shells of aquatic snails. These tiny fish vary from just 1.5 to 2.5 inches and can be kept in small colonies in nano aquariums.

    Western Species

    Most of the popular African cichlids hail from the great African Lakes in the east, although there are a few options from West and Central Africa. Popular West African cichlids include the African butterfly cichlid, the jewel cichlid, and the popular kribensis cichlid.

    Top 21 Types of African Cichlids

    Are you ready to meet 21 amazing African Cichlid species? Check out the following important facts for each species before choosing your next fish:

    • Scientific Name
    • Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Lake Type
    • Cichlid Type
    • Color Form
    • Water Temperature
    • pH
    • Hardness requirements
    • Diet

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    Let’s get started!

    1. Yellow Lab

    Yellow Lab Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Labidochromis caeruleus
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Yellow
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.7 – 8.6
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Mostly vegetarian

    The yellow lab cichlid is one of the most popular and recognizable African cichlids in the hobby. These small mbunas from Lake Malawi are bright yellow with a black eye and a black stripe along their dorsal fin.

    Yellow lab cichlids can be kept in a colorful mixed mbuna community with other Lake Malawi cichlids or you can give them their own tank and start a breeding project.

    2. Malawi Trout

    • Scientific Name: Champsochromis caeruleus
    • Size: 13 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large predator hap
    • Color Form: Mostly blue
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Meaty foods like prawns and mussels, supplemented with dried foods

    The Malawi trout (video source) is a lean, mean predatory cichlid species and a real showstopper in a large African cichlid tank. These fish stand out with long, flowing dorsal and anal fins and a strong triangular tail for speed.

    This is an active swimming cichlid that needs plenty of space. These fish are not particularly aggressive toward similar-sized species, but they will eat anything small enough to fit in that large mouth.

    3. Fossorochomis rostratus

    • Scientific Name: Fossorochomis rostratus
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large hap
    • Color Form: Mostly blue
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivore, prefers live and frozen foods like brine shrimp and bloodworm

    Fossorochomis rostratus (video source) is a large African cichlid with some interesting behaviors. The males are more colorful and have beautiful metallic blue coloration mixed with various shades of purple, green, and yellow. Younger fish have prominent dark blotches along their sides, and mature males develop black bellies.

    This peaceful cichlid has the fascinating habit of diving into the sand to look for food or escape predators. They should not be kept with aggressive and territorial species, and a small group of one male and a few females is ideal.

    4. Lemon Jack Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara jacobfreibergi
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, provide spirulina, fine dried foods, and live/frozen foods.

    The Lemon Jake peacock (video source) is a stunning blue and yellow variety of the popular Aulonocara jacobfreibergi cichlid from Lake Malawi. This form occurs naturally around the Undu Reef on the Tanzanian coast.

    These fish are often aggressive toward other species with similar colors, and males will fight with each other. Keep a group of one male and a few females to see them on their best behavior.

    5. Johanni

    Electric Blue Johanni Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanochromis johanni
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Yellow/orange (female) electric blue and black (adult)
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81°F
    • pH: 7.6 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Spirulina and greens with some live/frozen foods

    The Johanni cichlid is a beautiful but aggressive species that does great in busy mbuna cichlid tanks. These fish can be kept in a relatively small tank, although a larger aquarium is recommended for a great mixed mbuna community tank.

    The sexes are easy to distinguish by colors, with bright blue males and yellow females. Like most other Mbunas, it’s best to keep one male with a small group of females to prevent aggression.

    6. Frontosa

    Frontosa Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Cyphotilapia frontosa
    • Size: 10 – 14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Large rock-dwelling cichlid
    • Color Form: Black, blue, and white
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 80°F
    • pH: 8 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivore. Provide spirulina, greens, frozen foods, and quality pellets

    Frontosa cichlids are large and distinctive aquarium fish with bold black bars on a blue/white body. Males develop a large nuchal bump on their foreheads, which is why these fish are also known as humphead cichlids.

    Frontosa cichlids inhabit rocky areas in the deep waters of Lake Tanganyika, sometimes over 200 feet below the surface. They are generally peaceful but require a very large aquarium to mimic their natural environment.

    7. Buccochromis rhoadesii

    • Scientific Name: Buccochromis rhoadesii
    • Size: 16 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large Hap
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed meaty foods

    Buccochromis rhoadesii (video source) is a large predatory cichlid that hunts by chasing down smaller fish. These colorful fish are also known as the yellow lepturus cichlid. This is an active species that requires a large aquarium to thrive, although they can be kept with a number of other large haps.

    8. Ngara Flametail

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara stuartgranti
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock cichlids
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 84 °F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    The Ngara flametail is one of the most beautiful African cichlids in the hobby. They are a smaller form of the well-known Grant’s Peacock cichlid from Lake Malawi.

    Ngara flametails are a good choice for beginners because they are fairly peaceful, hardy, and they can even be kept with some live plants. However, males may attack similar-colored fish, so keep this in mind when selecting tank mates.

    9. Malawi Hawk

    • Scientific Name: Aristochromis christyi
    • Size: 10 – 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Lake Type: Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large predatory hap
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Meaty foods like prawns and mussels, supplemented with quality pellets.

    The Malawi hawk (video source) is a large and colorful hap species that hunts and eats smaller cichlids in the wild. It gets its name from its beak-like mouth which allows it to swallow fish up to four inches long!

    The Malawi Hawk might be dangerous to smaller fish, but they are surprisingly peaceful with large tank mates. They can be kept with other large Lake Malawi species like the Malawi trout and Fossorochomis rostratus.

    10. Maulana Bicolor Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara stuartgranti
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock cichlid
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    The Maulana bicolor peacock cichlid is another great variety of Grant’s peacock, a widespread cichlid in Lake Malawi. This form comes from the Chitimba Bay area on the northwest coast.

    Male Maulana bicolor peacocks are electric blue with a characteristic yellow/orange stripe just behind the head. The smaller females have dull brown colors and are difficult to distinguish from other female peacocks.

    11. OB Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Hybrid
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Captive bred
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: ‘Orange blotch’
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    OB peacock cichlids (video source) are gorgeous hybrid fish developed by crossing different species. The original species combination is unknown, but many aquarists believe it involved a male peacock and a female mbuna.

    OB stands for orange blotch, which is a pretty good description of their colors! However, these fish are available in many other color patterns, including shades of blue, pink, and yellow. You won’t find them in nature, and each specimen is truly unique when it comes to its colors and patterns.

    12. Eureka Red Peacock

    Eureka Red Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara jacobfreibergi
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and Orange
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, provide spirulina, fine dried foods, and live/frozen foods.

    The Eureka red cichlid is another great variety of the popular Aulonocara jacobfreibergi peacock from Lake Malawi. The males are predominantly orange with varying amounts of dark blue, creating a very eye-catching centerpiece fish.

    13. Sulphurhead Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara maylandi
    • Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Black, blue, and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82 °F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Flakes, pellets, and frozen foods

    The sulphurhead peacock cichlid is a striking species with a yellow blaze that runs from its nose to the start of the dorsal fin. This bright yellow streak continues along the top of the dorsal fin, and they often have a yellow lower edge of the anal fin too.

    These beautiful African cichlids are very peaceful so they are not suited to cichlid communities with more boisterous species. However, they really shine in species-only cichlid aquariums.

    14. Lwanda Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara sp. ‘Lwanda’
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed them quality flakes or pellets and live/frozen foods

    The Lwanda peacock cichlid is a deep-bodied species with shapely fins. Males have an interesting mix of colors, combining blue and orange on the body and fins.

    These territorial fish should be kept in a small group consisting of one male and a few females. They are fairly easy to breed but may hybridize with other Aulonocara species.

    15. Dragon Blood Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara sp. hybrid
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Captive bred
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Red/pink
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.6
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide quality flakes or pellets and live/frozen foods

    The dragon blood peacock is another Aulonocara hybrid with unique colors and markings. These fish are also known as fire cichlids, and they are usually available in shades from pink to bright red. The head and fins are often a lighter color varying from white to light blue.

    They are fairly aggressive peacocks but can be kept in a well-planned African cichlid community. Like other peacocks, the dragon blood will sift through the sand in search of food.

    16. Cobalt Blue Zebra

    Cobalt Zebra Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Maylandia callainos
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling mbuna
    • Color Form: Blue and black
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.6 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed spirulina flakes and greens supplemented with live/frozen foods

    Cobalt blue zebra cichlids have a striking blue color, often with a series of vertical black bars on their sides. They are good mbunas for beginner cichlid keepers, although they are aggressively territorial like most other fish in their family.

    Fortunately, aggressive behavior can be limited by choosing the right tank mates and keeping just one male in the same tank. They will do best in a heavily stocked mbuna tank, and a group of one male and a few females is recommended.

    17. Red Zebra

    <a href=Red Zebra Cichlid” class=”wp-image-1068151″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pseudotropheus estherae
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Orange
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Provide greens, spirulina flakes, and live/frozen foods.

    The red zebra cichlid is another great mbuna from Lake Malawi. These fish are one of the most popular African cichlids because both males and females have a great orange color. Like other Mbunas, these fish are naturally territorial and aggressive.

    18. Saulosi

    The Saulosi cichlid (video source) is known as a dwarf mbuna because they usually grow to just 3.5 inches or so. These fish really draw attention, and males and females add variety with completely different colors! Males are electric blue with dark vertical stripes and females are plain yellow/orange.

    They are true Mbunas, although they are less aggressive than other species from this group. Keep these fish in a rocky aquascape that mimics their natural habitat.

    19. Calvus

    Calvus Fish
    • Scientific Name: Altolamprologus calvus
    • Size: 3-6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Predatory rock-dweller
    • Color Form: Black and white
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80°F
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous. Provide meaty frozen foods

    The calvus cichlid is a unique predatory fish with a strange body shape and dramatic markings. They may not have any bright colors, but their spectacular spots and stripes make them stand out in any aquarium!

    Calvus are predators, with big mouths for swallowing live prey like insects and small fish. They are not aggressive towards similar-sized fish and should not be kept with other boisterous fish like mbunas or tropheus.

    20. Demasoni

    Demasoni Fish
    • Scientific Name: Pseudotropheus demasoni
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Blue and black
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82°F
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed mostly spirulina flake and greens but supplement with live/frozen foods.

    Demasoni cichlids are small but highly aggressive Lake Malawi Cichlids that are not afraid to tackle larger species. They can be kept with other mbunas but it’s best to avoid similar-looking tank mates.

    Both males and females are great-looking fish, and they can be tricky to sex. However, males grow larger than females and are more aggressively territorial.

    21. Duboisi

    Tropheus Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Tropheus duboisi
    • Size: 4.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Rock dwellers
    • Color Form: Black and white
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81°F
    • pH: 8 – 9.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed mostly spirulina flake and greens but supplement with live/frozen foods.

    The duboisi cichlid is also known as the white spotted cichlid because it has white spots on a black body when young. Mature fish fade to a blue-black shade and develop a single white bar on either side of their body.

    These fish are highly aggressive toward their own species but relatively peaceful with other fish. They can be kept as a single specimen or in a large school (15+) in a limited space.

    Tank Setup and Care Tips

    African cichlids are hardy and easy to keep if you choose their tank mates correctly and provide them with a healthy natural environment. Let’s run through a few important African cichlid care tips.

    Tank Size

    Most African cichlids need a medium to large aquarium, although some of the dwarf cichlid species like Neolamprologus can be housed in a 10 to 20-gallon tank.

    55 Gallon Aquarium
    55 Gallon Aquarium

    The 55-gallon aquarium is a great budget-friendly larger tank. It often goes on sale at chain pet stores.

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    30 gallons is the minimum for some of the dwarf Mbunas and peacocks, but a 55-gallon tank is the recommended starting point for an African cichlid community.

    Diet

    African cichlids are a diverse group of fish, so a one-size-fits-all approach is not recommended. These fish can be very sensitive to poor nutrition, and easily develop problems like obesity and even dangerous health conditions like Malawi bloat.

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    Most African cichlids can be fed prepared foods like cichlid pellets and spirulina flakes, although a more balanced diet is necessary for long-term health. The mbunas in particular require a low-protein diet consisting of algae and vegetable matter, with the occasional meaty supplement.

    Choosing Tank Mates

    Choosing tank mates for African cichlids can be a daunting task. Often the best results come from intentionally overstocking their tank so there is no room for them to claim any territories.

    Make sure to research compatibility carefully before adding new fish to your tank, and remember that sex ratios can be just as important as a species selection.

    It’s also possible to attempt an all male cichlid tank. For further details on how to attempt this I suggest checking out the this cichlid forum.

    Maintenance

    African Cichlids are pretty messy fish, and a heavily stocked community tank is going to need high filtration and regular maintenance. Over-filtering is the norm with these tanks, and weekly water changes are recommended to manage nitrate levels.

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    FAQs

    What Is The Most Common African Cichlid Species?

    Mbuna cichlids are the most popular African cichlid species in the hobby. Red zebra cichlids and yellow labs are some of the most common species in the aquarium trade for their amazing colors and high activity levels.

    What Are The 2 Main Groups Of Cichlids?

    The two main groups of cichlids are the African cichlids and the New World cichlids. Most of the African cichlids come from the great lakes of East Africa, whereas the New World cichlids come from North, Central, and South America.

    How Many Types Of Malawi Species Are There?

    There are a staggering 850 species of Cichlids in Lake Malawi. Of course, not all of these fish are available or even suitable for aquariums, but there is still a multitude of Malawi cichlids available in the aquarium trade.

    What Is The Rarest Species?

    There are a staggering 850 species of Cichlids in Lake Malawi. Of course, not all of these fish are available or even suitable for aquariums, but there is still a multitude of Malawi cichlids available in the aquarium trade.

    What Is The Rarest Species?

    At least 52 cichlid species are classified as endangered and a further 106 as critically endangered. Many species are threatened by overfishing, pollution, and the introduction of non-native fish. The Lake Victoria Cichlids, for example, are under serious threat after the Nile Perch was introduced in the 1950s.

    What Are Some Of The Most Peaceful Species?

    African Cichlids have a reputation for being aggressive fish, so they are hardly ever a safe option for a peaceful community tank. However, there are some species that stand out as more peaceful than the rest.

    Frontosa Cichlids may have an intimidating look, but they are actually gentle giants in an African cichlid aquarium. The kribensis cichlids are one of the few African species that can be kept in a small community tank with other popular freshwater fish species, although they can be aggressive when breeding.

    Final Thoughts

    African cichlids are real eye candy for fish lovers. Their bright colors, interesting behaviors, and high activity levels make an African cichlid tank one of the most captivating to keep. Hopefully, you have enjoyed this article and learned more about some of Africa’s most exciting freshwater fish!

    Do you keep African cichlids? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

  • How to Tell If a Goldfish Is Male or Female (5 Reliable Ways)

    How to Tell If a Goldfish Is Male or Female (5 Reliable Ways)

    Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect. outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

    The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

    Key Takeaways

    • Goldfish are relatively easy to breed, but their intense care requirements and large brood sizes should be considered before attempting to do so.
    • Male fish are smaller yet brighter in coloration and may display breeding tubercles. Female goldfish may develop a noticeable vent and grow rounder in body shape but lack tubercles.
    • Goldfish are egg scatterers that will eat their eggs once done with the spawning process. Because of this, they do best when bred in a separate tank with controlled settings.

    Introduction To Goldfish

    Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

    In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

    It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

    How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

    Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

    Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

    There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

    1. Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.

      However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.

      It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
    2. Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
    3. Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
    4. Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
    5. Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

    Can They Be Both Genders?

    No, goldfish are not hermaphrodites. This means that when they are born, they are born one gender and stay that gender for the entirety of their lives.

    Can They Change Genders?

    No, the gender of your goldfish cannot change. While some tropical fish can change their gender based on changing environmental circumstances, goldfish will stay either male or female for their entire life.

    Introduction To Breeding

    Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

    As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

    Ryukin Goldfish

    Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

    Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

    Why Are They Chasing Each Other?

    As mentioned before, male goldfish will chase females when they’re ready to spawn. This is considered a dancing behavior that encourages the female to release her eggs. However, this can become overwhelming for the female if the male is especially persistent.

    If your male goldfish is chasing your female goldfish outside of the breeding season, then there could be a problem regarding space, water quality, or compatibility. These fish may need to be separated at this point.

    How Do You Know If Your Fish Is Pregnant?

    Goldfish do not become pregnant. Goldfish are egg scatterers. This means that when ready, the female goldfish will release her eggs into the water column for the male the fertilize them. These are sticky eggs that can get caught on live plants, aquarium equipment, or other spawning aids.

    However, female goldfish tend to become rounder in body shape when they’re full of unfertilized eggs. This can definitely give them the appearance of being pregnant though they’re not actually carrying goldfish fry.

    How Do You Know When They Are Laying Eggs?

    Goldfish eggs are macroscopic and easily seen by the human eye. Eggs that are white or clear in color are unfertilized. Fertilized eggs are light brown or yellow in color. As the fertilized eggs develop, a noticeable dark spot will grow in the center of the egg.

    There are many obvious signs that your male and female goldfish are ready to spawn, including physical and behavioral changes. When ready, you will see the female releasing her eggs.

    How To Breed Them

    The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

    Aquarium Setup

    In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

    In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

    Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54° F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74° F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

    Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

    The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

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    Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

    Java Moss
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    Spawning

    Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

    The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

    Raising The Fry

    Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

    Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

    Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

    Conclusion

    Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

    From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.

    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    References

  • Aquascape Ideas: The 5 Main Styles and How to Set Each One Up

    Aquascape Ideas: The 5 Main Styles and How to Set Each One Up

    Aquascaping is one of the more creative sides of this hobby, and something I’ve spent a lot of time experimenting with over the years. My personal approach leans toward the natural planted style. soil capped with gravel or sand, low-tech, letting the plants do the heavy lifting. But there’s a whole spectrum here, from the highly structured Dutch style to wild jungle scapes, and each approach has its own philosophy, equipment requirements, and skill level.

    Whether you’re setting up your first planted tank or trying to give an existing one a real visual identity, understanding the five main styles will help you pick a direction that fits your budget, patience, and goals. Here’s a breakdown of each.

    Key Takeaways

    • Aquascaping is an underwater living art form that creates stunning underwater landscape
    • There are several popular styles that are used in aquascaping with Nature Aquariums being the more predominant
    • They involved aquascaping rocks, driftwood, and aquatic plants
    • They often will require CO2 injection to enhance growth

    How to Get Started?

    If you’re completely new to aquascaping, the very first thing you’ll need to do is decide on what type of critter are you looking to keep, or if this is going to be a one hundred percent horticulturist endeavor?

    And I say critter because with all the options of aquascaping available, it’s possible to keep anything from fish to small shrimp and even frogs. So the more you understand what type of aquatic creatures you’re trying to make happy, the easier it will be to try and replicate their natural habitat, or at least somewhere they’d enjoy living.

    For example, if I wanted to have a beautiful nature aquariums with small freshwater shrimp and a few tetras, I would opt for an Iwagumi style set up. Or for fish like Cichlids, I would use the Biotope Style.

    But if this is simply for your enjoyment and have no plans on keeping any specific aquatic pets, then there’s a whole world for you to consider.

    Understanding what’s going to live in your newly created natural habitat, or not, can help narrow down your focus and shorten the learning curve considerably.

    Considerations

    • What will live in the tank
    • How big is your tank
    • How much are you willing to spend
    • How much time do you have for maintenance
    • Your personal aesthetics

    What’s Next?

    Now that you have an idea of what will live in your freshwater aquarium and a taste of what’s involved, it’s time to see what style you would want to recreate in your own tank.

    This is aquascaping, simply landscaping under water in a confined space. So the best place to see what you might like is to look at some regular landscaping pictures.

    Type in something like ‘beautiful landscapes’ into your search engine and click ‘images’. You’ll be presented with thousands of images, all of them potential aquascapes for you to clone and experiment with.

    CO2 Injected Planted Tank

    Choose a few images that really inspire you, and notice what they all have in common. Are they all sprawling grass fields, or forest covered mountains?

    This is what you feel is beautiful or have some sort of connection with, and it’s also what you should be working towards in your own aquascape ideas. After all, it’s you that needs to see it everyday!

    Once you have an idea of what you connect with, explore the different styles of aquascaping to see which style most resembles your personal choices. It’ll be easier to understand one style’s complexities than trying to learn the whole hobby at one go.

    Just like in ‘real’ landscaping, there are a lot of styles of aquascaping and you just need to figure out which aquascape ideas float your boat.

    Once you narrow your focus on which style resonates with you, then you can go deeper into researching everything that goes into that particular aquascape.

    Here Are A Few Of The Main Aquarium Styles

    Nature Aquarium Styles

    Nature Style Aquarium Example

    Nature aquariums are definitely one of the most popular aquascaping ideas and was originally developed by Takashi Amano from Japan. Takashi took what he knew, and incorporated the lush high mountain peaks of Japan into his art using aquascaping rocks, mosses and other aquatic plants and hardscapes.

    His style is one in tune with nature and wanting to bring the beauty of large landscapes into a small underwater space. Everything is as natural looking as possible and well balanced for a sense of serenity when looking at one of his creations.

    Dutch Aquarium Style

    Originating in the Netherlands, Dutch aquascaping is characterized as vibrant and full of color and variety. This planted aquarium style focuses on aquatic plants rather than other materials.

    Dutch Aquascape

    More of an underwater flower garden, Dutch aquarium aquascapes contain patches of a wide variety of plant species that are arranged neat rows and patterns. The densely planted aquariums are well manicured and are reminiscent of the old traditional gardens of the Netherlands.

    Iwagumi Style

    The Iwagumi aquascape originated with the same man who started the Nature Aquarium style, Takashi Amano. Only this time, he went for a super minimalist appearance creating sprawling low landscapes that bring the eye to a few key focal points, usually strategically placed stones all having their own importance in the overall balance of the Iwagumi aquascape.

    Short aquatic mosses help create a sense of grandeur of the jutting rocks while giving the Iwagumi aquascape a life form all its own.

    Biotope Style

    Biotope aquascapes are great when you have a certain species of aquarium fish you want to keep and pamper as best you can. The aquascapes are literal miniature ecologically correct environments that replicate the fish’s natural habit down to the last detail.

    These can include what you’d naturally find in rivers, swamps, or other aquatic terrains. Done right, your aquarium fish should never realize they are in a fish tank and not in their natural habitat.

    Paludarium Style

    One of the more difficult aquascaping styles to pull off, these aquascaping ideas require three key components; water, land, and a canopy portion. That means your tank will never be completely filled with water which is perfect if you want to keep a small frog or two. You can see a world class Paludarium below from Green Aqua’s YouTube channel.

    They include terrestrial plants and aquatic plants, making them a true biozone. And although they may be a bit more complicated, they do open up the possibilities when it comes to what you can keep in your tanks.

    Setting Up Your Tank

    When it comes to your aquarium, you really want to go with the largest freshwater aquarium you can afford or fit in your space. A twenty gallon fish tank and a few plants is a great start, but a hundred gallons is even better. Only go with small aquariums if you’re working with a really tight budget.

    You’ll also want to use a rimless tank that doesn’t have any braces or other materials that take away from your aquascape. You want a tank that is pure glass and a solid stand.

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    As far as a stand, it’s a good idea to get a cabinet type. You’ll need a few tools and possibly a CO2 tank for your aquascape, and it makes it easier to hide all your equipment so everything looks as clean and professional as possible.

    Personally, I like a very dark colored cabinet stand so when the aquascaping lights are on, you don’t even notice what’s underneath the aquarium.

    Substrates

    Substrates are extremely important in a planted tank due to all of the live plants you’ll be working with. It’s needs to be both fertile enough to sustain your aquatic plants, and hardy enough for the plants to root in and support rooting plant growth.

    If you’re only working with carpeting plants like mosses, then your plant substrate isn’t as important. But even small plants need something to grow in.

    And just like the live plants that grow in your yard, many aquatic plants pull nutrients from the soil using their roots. That means your plant substrate will need to include these nutrients and possibly be easy enough to change or add more when they’re depleted.

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    ADA Aqua Soil

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    Walstad Method

    The best method for achieving a well balanced planted tank is the Walstad Method.

    This method of growing aquatic plants in aquascapes is named after the woman named Diana Walstad who literally wrote the book on it, (see: ‘ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM – A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist’).

    When done correctly, this method provides all the nutrients your aquatic plants will need and you won’t need to change the soil or add any additional nutrients. You can see an example of this setup from Ceyhun Derindere Aquatics’ YouTube Channel.

    This is because the plants will quickly create a chemically balanced biological ecosystem within your tank and break down any fish refuse to be used by your plants as fertilizer.

    Once established, you shouldn’t even need to use a filtration system for your tank as the plant life and biological ecosystem created naturally does all the work for you.

    All you need to do is get some quality potting soil that you can find at any garden center. Just make sure there are no added chemical fertilizers!

    Add at least one inch of the soil in the bottom of your tank. Then add a thin layer of sand, or 2 inches of medium fine gravel so the soil can always breathe. That’s it!

    The only thing you need to be aware of is you must give your fish tank a minimum of two months to stabilize and be ready for your fish.

    Sand and Gravel

    Both sand and gravel make great substrates depending on the aquascaping plants you’re growing. Both come in all sorts of sizes and colors and are easy enough to source.

    Just be sure that your aquatic plants match they type and size you’re looking to use. Tall plants find it hard to root in small particle sized sand whereas mosses will have problems rooting in large gravel substrates.

    And also take your fish into account. Don’t use substrates with sharp edges if you’re going to include catfish or other bottom dwellers.

    Hardscape Materials

    Hardscape materials will either make or break your entire design. Everything about them is important, their size, color, material, everything. After all, these are the focal points of your aquascape and should be added after you’ve finished adding your substrate.

    Rocks

    Although you may think rocks are pretty boring, there are actually a massive amount of different kinds of rocks. And each one you place in your tank will have an effect on the overall experience of your aquascape. So take your time finding that perfect aquascaping rock!

    Editor’s Choice!
    Ohko Dragon Stone
    Ohko Dragon Stone

    Editor’s Choice

    Ohko is the premier aquascaping rock today. Granite based with amazing shapes and selection

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    Obviously what look you’re going for will determine a lot as far as choosing your rocks. For a Nature Aquascape you’ll usually want dark colored rocks with interesting designs that can look like mountain peaks or far away mountains.

    If you’ll be adding rocks to a Dutch style tank, then you should be looking for colors that play off the types of plants you’ll be using. Or sizes that won’t overpower the rest of the scene.

    Some great rock types to start with are Dragon stone, Lava rock, Ryuoh or Seiryu, Ohko and Elephant Skin rocks are all used in aquascaping.

    Which one you choose to use is going to depend on how you want your finished aquascaping design to look.

    Driftwood

    I absolutely love the look of ragged, aged driftwood in a tank. Driftwood has so much character, and the colors are perfect for a natural tank. But you can use other types of wood like petrified woods,

    Best used in Nature, Biotope and Paludarium Styles of aquascaping, driftwood can be used as a central focal point or for layering to bring depth of field to a scene.

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood
    Manzanita Driftwood

    Editor’s Choice

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    Coupled with plants like Java Moss or Anubias Barteri, your wood becomes a living organism that looks amazing with a few freshwater invertebrates grazing on them.

    Filtration

    Great filtration is a must for any aquarium, and even more so when you include soil, wood and plant life into the mix. Rotting plant material decomposes over time and add a lot of different elements to your water that must be filtrated out.

    And that’s not to mention the addition of fish to your tank. Even small fish species produce waste that needs to be filtered out in order to keep your water well balanced.

    The best and most natural way of handling all this when you can is to use the Walstad Method I described above. Then instead of waste, you have fertilizer.

    But if that isn’t possible, then you’ll need to think about the best sort of filtration system yo use for your specific aquascape. Usually, some sort of external hang-on back (HOB) filter or canister filter.

    Canister filters are the best you can get. They can be hidden underneath your tank, and you can use almost any type of filtration medium you can find. They come in all sizes and can handle even the biggest water volume. The only problem is they’re also the most expensive type of filter system.

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    OASE Biomaster Thermo
    OASE Biomaster Thermo

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    A less expensive type is the HOB filter. These filters simply hang on the back of your tank and are simple in terms of how they’re used. So they can be a solid starting point for a new aquarist.

    But they also have many drawbacks. The first being that they hand on your tank. For aquascaping, this is definitely not ideal. Furthermore these filters can’t hold nearly the amount of filtration media that canisters can, nor are they as quit when running.

    They are also not meant for larger tanks as they aren’t all that powerful.

    So if you have the funds, I highly suggest just going for the canister filtration system.

    Lighting

    Since aquascaping relies heavily on plants to complete their overall scene, having the correct lighting for plants to photosynthesize and fish to thrive is going to matter a lot.

    Unlike other types of aquarium lighting, we are looking for lighting options that are specifically designed for growing aquatic plants. This is one area where the needs of your fish take a back seat.

    In a traditional aquarium set up, fluorescent light bulbs would be fine for most plants and fish. But they aren’t well suited for aquascaping plants and should be your last choice.

    The very best lights for your aquascapes would be bulbs that mimic natural daylight. And they need to be strong enough to reach the depths of your tank while not creating a lot of heat and effecting the water temperature.

    LEDs are the perfect choice for aquascaping. They can do all of that and more. In fact, you can do all sorts of cool things with LED. They can be easily timed when they come on and off.

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    Serene RGB Pro LED
    Serene RGB Pro LED

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    You can dim your lighting, or even dim or brighten certain areas of your tank all with the same light source. You can even add different colors or light spectrums to the mix.

    There really isn’t much you can’t do with LEDs today. And they are much more energy efficient than other types of grow lights. So over time they can end up saving you money.

    Plants

    Obviously, plants are going to play a major role in any aquascape. Your plant choices will ultimately depend on the overall aesthetic you’ve chosen and the type of aquascape style you want to achieve.

    You’ll also need to take into consideration the individual requirements of each plant. It’s best if you have similar species of plants that require the same lighting, temperatures and water hardness so it’s easier to maintain your tank. And slower growing plants will need less pruning.

    There are actually four groups of plants you need to consider when planning your aquascape based on their size and where they will be placed in your setup. The idea is to vary the heights of your plants to give your tank an overall feeling of depth to the scene.

    Background . Background plants will usually be the largest plants in your aquarium. The ones I’ve listed here are the easiest to source and grow to about 12 inches (30 cm) or more. They do come in a variety of leaf shapes and sizes, but the only color variations are greens and reds.

    Midground . Your Midground plants are next. They only grow to a medium height of about six inches tall and should be used somewhere in the middle of your tank in front of your background plants.

    • Java fern
    • Anubias species
    • Cryptocoryne species
    • Alternanthera reineckii
    • Red dwarf Hygrophila
    • Blyxa short leaf. Blyxa novoguineensis
    • Chain Sword
    • Dwarf Cardinal plant. Lobelia cardinalis
    • Downoi. Pogostemon helferi
    • Basil Leaf. Limnophila rugosa
    • Water Hyssop. Bacopa caroliniana

    Foreground . The area closest to you as your viewing your tank, most aquascaped foregrounds will include some of your smallest plants so you have a clear vision of the entire scene.

    Some species are also called carpeting plants, and many types of mosses are incorporated here giving your aquascape a lawn effect, or rolling hills like in the Iwagumi style of aquascaping.

    • Staurogyne repens (S. repens)
    • anubias nana petite
    • dwarf hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)
    • Micro sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis)
    • dwarf chain sword or pygmy chain sword (Helanthium tenellum)
    • Hydrocotyle tripartite

    Carpeting Plants

    • Dwarf baby tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides ‘Cuba’)
    • Monte carlo (Micranthemum tweediei)
    • Mini pennywort (Hydrocotyle tripartita “Mini”)
    • Creeping Staurogyne (Staurogyne repens)
    • Vietnam Ambulia (Limnophila sp. “Vietnam” )

    Floating – Floating plants are helpful in low to medium light conditions as they can provide cover and can be arranged in ways to shed shade on the areas of your tank that need less light.

    And since these types of plants do not grow in the substrate, they can be added or taken away easily. Plus, the species with roots can add a lot of drama to the overall feel of an aquascape as the plant roots hand down into the scene.

    • Duckweed (Lemna minor)
    • Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
    • Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
    • Dwarf Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)
    • Water Spangles (Salvinia minima)
    • Mosquito Fern (Azolla filiculoides)
    • Pennywort (Centella asiatica)

    Fish Species

    Your fish should be the last thing that’s added to your aquarium. Your aquascape will need some time to take hold and after you first finish, you will probably want to make some adjustments which means arranging aquatic plants which your fish won’t take kindly to.

    And it also takes some time for the water to become more stable and establish a healthy ecosystem. This can take as long as two months, so be patient.

    Give your aquascape the chance to cycle through and the plants to take root. then when you introduce your fish, they’ll feel right at home with no disturbances.

    As far as which fish to keep, remember, the aquascape is the focus, not the fish. They are just the decoration. So you want fewer and smaller fish than you would otherwise.

    This also helps to give the aquascape more of a sense of largeness or openness. A big fish would just look really out of place!

    Just try to match your fishes requirements with that of your plants. If all of your plants need strong light or warm water, make sure the plant safe fish you include can tolerate these same conditions.

    Small schooling fish like Neon Tetras are perfect for these types of tanks since they are easy to care for, don’t pull up plants and can live in all types of freshwater aquariums.

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    These fish only grow to an inch and a half and are inexpensive and easy to source. There are many different tetras and any of these colorful fish would do well in an aquascaped environment.

    Harlequin Rasboras are another great choice reaching less than an inch and a half full grown, they are easy to source and are very inexpensive. They’re easy to keep, school well in groups and don’t disturb your plants. Overall a great choice.

    Harlequin Rasbora
    Harlequin Rasbora

    A peaceful schooling fish. An ideal community fish. A great beginner fish

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    Celestial Pearl Danios, or Galaxy Rasboras are beautifully colored fish and work well in Natural or Iwagumi tanks where there isn’t much color. These easy to care for fish are still a bit rare and much more expensive than the Tetras or Rasboras, but they are worth the cost.

    Celestial Pearl Danio
    Celestial Pearl Danio

    A great-looking danio fish. Males are more colorful than females. A midway dwelling fish

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    The best part is these fish naturally live in heavily planted ponds and grow to less than two inches, so an aquascaped tank would be the best option to keep these fish healthy and happy.

    The Spotted Blue-eye is another easy choice. Colorful and timid, this fish’s natural habitat is heavily planted shallow pools. They rarely grow to over an inch and a half and add some pizazz to any planted tank.

    The Neon Blue Tux Guppy  (Poecilia reticulata) is another peaceful fish that looks great in aquascapes. You should keep at least six as they like to school, and you can keep up to 20 or 30 if your tank is large enough. This brilliant blue tailed fish grows to be about around 1.5 inches and is easy to manage and find at most fish stores.

    Another fish you should include is a Otocinclus Catfish. These are small busy fish and should be kept in groups of three or more. These guys will help you keep your tank clean by eating most forms of algae which is always a bit of a problem when it comes to heavily planted tanks. If you have a larger aquarium, keep five to ten to help out with your tank maintenance.

    Otocinclus Catfish
    Otocinclus Catfish

    A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

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    Shrimp are another great way to combat algae growth and are very interesting to watch and even breed. Neocaridina Shrimp are probably the best ones to start off with. They are stunningly colored and come in reds, blues, yellows, and greens.

    They’re also easy to find and care for and if your tank is properly maintained, they’ll breed with no problems.

    You can also try Caridina multidentata, or ‘Amano Shrimp‘ respectfully named after Takashi Amano after he made these crustaceans ‘famous’ using them as a way to keep down algae in his creations, especially in his Iwagumi Style aquascapes.

    Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!
    Amano Shrimp
    Amano Shrimp

    Best For Planted Tanks!

    When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!

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    These little translucent shrimp will eat almost any type of algae and are cheap and easy to find at most pet shops.

    Maintenance

    Since you’re primarily keeping an underwater garden, it’s smart to focus on your aquatic plants as much as possible since your plants will end up helping you maintain you aquarium once they’re established and happy. Yes, plants can be happy too!

    The perfect aquascape should rely on the miniature ecological environment in the tank to take care of most issues. Your plants should be absorbing the carbon dioxide from your fish, and the fish should be breathing the oxygen from the plants.

    Any fish waste should be fertilizer for the aquatic plants and food for your catfish and shrimp.

    Think of how nature works and that’s what you should be trying to replicate inside your aquarium. The closer you get, the less maintenance you’ll need to do.

    Daily Tasks

    Do daily inspections of your plants, fish and anything living in the tank. notice if your fish are loosing their colors, or seem lethargic.

    See that your plants are steadily growing and there are no brown spots or dying leaves.

    Check for algae growth and ensure your filters and lights are all working correctly.

    Water changes are the most important thing you can do to keep your aquascapes pristine. And it’s far better to do a 10% or 20% daily water change that a 50% change once a week.

    If you’re unable to stick to a regime like this, do the best you can. Even every other day or every two days is better than weekly changes. Just be sure the water you’re adding is close to the same temperature of your tank’s water so as not to shock your pets inside.

    Weekly Tasks

    Clean the aquarium glass inside and outside the aquarium. Even if it looks clean, small algae spores may begin to collect and it’s best to never give them a foot hold on your tank.

    Check your plants and trim any ones that are not growing the way you want. Really look at them and be sure their leaves are clean and smooth and nothing is eating them.

    You may need to vacuum your substrate if possible from time to time. But you need to be very careful as not to bring up any soil under the substrate if you’re using the Walstad method for your aquatic plants.

    Test you water’s pH range and carbon dioxide levels to make sure your plants and fish are happy and safe.

    And if you haven’t done daily water changes, you must do at least weekly changes or you’ll run into problems! If done weekly, you need to do at least a 50% change. Just make sure the water temperature stays stable when making such a large change.

    Wrapping Up!

    Getting started aquascaping is as easy or complex as you want it to be. And the diversity of the hobby is enough for anyone to keep busy for a life time. All you need is a bit of imagination, a few bucks and an aquarium. After that, the rest is up to you.

    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • How to Lower Nitrates in a Fish Tank: 9 Methods That Actually Work

    How to Lower Nitrates in a Fish Tank: 9 Methods That Actually Work

    Nitrate management is something I think about constantly across my tanks. especially my 125-gallon reef where elevated nitrates directly impact coral health. Over 25 years I’ve tried every method out there, from water changes to refugiums to carbon dosing. Here’s what actually works and what’s most practical for most setups.

    Nitrates don’t kill fish overnight the way nitrites do. and that’s exactly what makes them dangerous. In my 125-gallon reef tank, I learned to respect nitrates the hard way. Coral bleaching, nuisance algae outbreaks, and sluggish fish behavior were all signs I initially attributed to other causes. Once I dialed in my nitrate management through a combination of water changes, refugium macroalgae, and a biopellet reactor, everything improved. In freshwater tanks, the fix is often simpler, but the principle is the same: elevated nitrates stress fish chronically, suppress immune systems, and fuel algae blooms. Here’s what actually works, based on my experience across dozens of setups over 25 years.

    Key Takeaways

    • Nitrates are the least toxic compared to Ammonia and Nitrite
    • At high levels, nitrate is harmful to your fish
    • Water changes, live plants, and specific media can help lower nitrates

    What Is It?

    Nitrate is a component of the nitrogen cycle and it is formed when bacteria do the conversion of ammonia. The bacteria named, Nitrosomonas1 first convert ammonia into nitrite and then it converts nitrite into nitrate.

    The names, nitrate, and nitrite are similar and beginner aquarists usually confuse them. However, nitrite is very toxic to the fish, while nitrates are less toxic. That’s because most aquarium fish may be poisoned and killed by nitrite concentrations of just 1 part per million, whereas nitrate concentrations can occasionally be 100 times higher. Some people associate high nitrate levels with bothersome algae and Old Tank Syndrome, which causes nitrate levels to rise, pH levels to fall, and any newly introduced fish to be stunned and die despite ammonia and nitrite tests coming back negative.

    The fun part about nitrate is it’s present almost everywhere. You might just be replacing your old tank water with new tap water and there are high chances of nitrate being present. Fortunately, it’s not as deadly as nitrite.

    How To Lower Nitrates In Fish Tank

    One of the easiest ways to lower nitrates in a fish tank is by changing your tank water frequently. The other quick ways include adding live plants, removing filter media, and avoiding overfeeding and overcrowding.

    We have a video from our YouTube Channel for those who want a visual explanation. As always, our blog post goes into more detail. Feel free to look at both. If you like our channel, be such to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

    1. Frequent Water Changes

    Your nitrate level will decrease if you switch to tap water as long as it contains less nitrate than your tank water. Test the nitrate level in both your freshwater tank and your tap to check that this is the case.

    Also, remember to maintain the right temperature of the water you’re replacing and make sure it’s treated for chlorine or chloramine.

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    Avoid using tap water if the nitrate levels are around 40 ppm or higher. It’s best to use RO water if the nitrate levels are too high in your tap water. The benefit of RO water to your aquarium fish is many as it removes nitrates, phosphates, chlorine, and minerals from tap water. Also, RO water is soft water with low pH, so suits the fish that prefer such water conditions.

    Summary:

    1. Perform water changes frequently.
    2. Vacuum the gravel to remove debris and fish waste
    3. Change your filter pads every once or twice a week to remove uneaten food rots or fish wastes that add to nitrate levels
    4. Make sure to test your tap water for nitrates before introducing it into the tank.

    2. Live Plants

    The old tank syndrome or high nitrate accumulation in your tank is very common. If you have freshwater aquariums, the problem seems quite under control. However, in saltwater tanks, extreme nitrate levels can cause a nuisance. It is said to lower nitrates and keep them below 20 mg/L for a healthy ecosystem.

    To cater to this, a planted aquarium works best to pull nitrates from the water for nutrition. However, there are some plants better than others.

    As plants might really run low on this important nutrient after using it all up, aquascapes actually inject nitrate in the form of nitrogen, or N. Other advantages of live aquatic plants for freshwater aquariums include helping to control algae growth, sheltering young fish and fry, and providing areas for fish to lay their eggs. Just make sure any aquarium with plants has the appropriate lighting and additional fertilizers to keep the plants thriving and healthy.

    Aquarium Plants That Work Best

    Water Sprite

    Water sprite or Indian Water Fern is a good live plant for most community tanks. They are also very useful, low-maintenance, and beautiful plants that keep your aquarium nitrate, ammonia, and nitrite free.

    Water Sprite
    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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    The leaves of water sprite are fast growing, so they quickly absorb all harmful toxins and chemicals from the tank water. Hence, they are powerful natural filters for your aquarium. However, they are very fast-growing plants that grow like a weed and may tangle into other plants. So, it’s important to prune them occasionally without harming the leaves.

    Duckweed

    Duckweeds are excellent floating plants that lower nitrates in your tank naturally. In the wild, you will usually find them sitting on top of the surface of many lakes and ponds.

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    Duckweed
    Duckweed

    An easy to care for plant that Goldfish love to eat!

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    In the aquarium hobby, duckweed is known to control nutrients and add aesthetics to the fish tank. However, like water sprite the growth rate of duckweed is very high, leading to uptake nutrients, equipment clogs, and many other problems. Therefore, it’s important to trim the branches occasionally.

    Water Wisteria
    Water Wisteria
    Water Wisteria

    An easy to grow and great beginner floating plant to try!

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    Water wisteria is one of my top picks for nitrate-reducing plants because it is, aesthetically pleasing with its gorgeous palmate leaves. Plus, it’s so easy to grow and low-maintenance. However, always grow this plant in the background as it turns very tall and bushy within no time.

    Frogbit

    If you have a larger aquarium tank, the frogbit plant should be your go-to. Appearance-wise, frogbit is very similar to duckweed and nitrate uptake.

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    Amazon Frogbit

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    However, the leaves are thick and circular in shape.

    Frogbit is very similar to duckweed in appearance and nitrate uptake. Your community fish can thrive and seek shelter in their long roots. But extra maintenance should be done to keep the roots and growth at bay.

    Hornwort

    A common choice for nitrate reduction in aquariums is hornwort. Aquarists wishing to lower nitrate levels in their tanks can use this rapidly growing aquatic plant because of its special capacity to absorb nitrates from the water column.

    Hornwort
    Hornwort

    A tall and easy to grow freshwater plant. One of the least demanding background plants available

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    As hornwort can absorb a lot of nitrates from the water column, it is a fantastic choice for aquariums with high nitrate levels. The plant is a helpful addition to any aquarium since it also lowers ammonia and phosphate levels.

    Hornwort may drastically reduce nitrates in as little as two weeks, but it’s crucial to keep in mind that it should be used in conjunction with nitrate-reducing systems. The aquarium must be regularly checked for nitrate levels in order to remain healthy and free of them.

    Anacharis

    Anacharis not only create nitrate remover but they also recognize to be a fantastic food source for many varieties of freshwater fish, including goldfish, tetras, and guppies. It also makes a terrific plant for breeding tanks because of its long, thin leaves, which offer excellent hiding places for fry.

    Anacharis
    Anacharis

    Excellent as a food source and sucks up nutrients in an aquarium. One of the easiest freshwater plants to care for

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    Water Lettuce

    One other live plant species that may remove nitrates from the tank water is water lettuce. A shallow-water pond’s nitrogen content may be effectively extracted by species like pistia stratiotes to the extent of 83%. You should plant this floating plant if you want both aesthetics and functionality.

    Water Lettuce
    Water Lettuce

    A popular floating plant that is used in ponds and aquariums!

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    3. Nitrate Reducing Media 

    To remove nitrates, nitrate removal filter media is used to lower nitrates in fish tanks. As mentioned earlier, nitrates are the natural by-product of the nitrogen cycle. The process allows beneficial bacteria to convert fish waste and uneaten food into less harmful substances.

    In order to remove nitrates, many aquarists equip the filer with high-performance filter media, such as the Biome Ultimate Filter Media, which is highly porous with a unique structure that absorbs water seamlessly. Filter media works in an exclusive way and supports beneficial bacterial bloom that is good at removing nitrate levels. 

    However, there are a few pointers you have before using nitrate-removing filter media in your tank.

    Filter media type

    It is important to choose the right type of filter media that suits your aquarium size and filtration system. There is a variety of nitrate-removing filter media in the market, including resins, pellets, sponges, sintered glass, etc. Biome Ultimate Filter Media is made of premium quality sintered glass and is ideal for Canister, HOB, and sump filters.

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    Preparation of filter media

    It is crucial to rinse the media to remove any dust particles and debris. While rinsing the media, always use fresh water and avoid the use of soap or detergents, as they can potentially harm the beneficial bacteria in the media. 

    Placement 

    Whether the media should be placed in the filter compartment or inside the filter bag, place it in the filter and make sure to follow the instructions on the label correctly.

    Keep An Eye On Your Levels

    I recommend using a water testing kit to monitor the nitrate levels in your aquarium. After adding filter media, it should take around 2 weeks to notice a significant decrease in nitrate levels.

    Replace The media

    Over time, media might become dirty and saturated and will need to be routinely changed. For information on when to change the media, consult the manufacturer.

    4. Equipment Methods

    Reverse osmosis, water distillation, and ion exchange methods can remove nitrate levels from water. However, remember that it’s not easy to get rid of nitrate levels through sediment filters, carbon filters, or even traditional ion exchange water softeners. To get rid of nitrates effectively, it’s important to install an anion resin tank. Also, if you want to reduce nitrate levels in your tap water, it’s crucial to install an under-sink RO system. If you have a small fish tank, it’s recommended to use a water distiller to reduce nitrate from the water. 

    Reverse Osmosis Method

    To use the reverse osmosis method, you have to install an RO unit that is specifically designed for aquariums. The RO unit is usually connected to the source of tap water. The water is then transferred through the system which removes toxic nitrate, and other contaminants.

    After the removal of all the nitrate, the pure water is collected in a tank that could later be used for aquarium water changes and regular maintenance by topping off the tank.

    Important

    The reverse osmosis process does not guarantee proper water quality. It is even proven to remove essential nutrients and other beneficial minerals from the water along with nitrate removal. Therefore, it is important to re-mineralize the water to maintain a healthy environment for your fish.

    Also, the RO water system demands regular maintenance to prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms in the fish tank.

    Ion Exchange Method

    Though not commonly used, the ion exchange method effectively removes nitrate from the fish tank. 

    In this method, you pass the water through a resin bed with charged particles; ions. These ions in the resin bed attract the oppositely charged particles in water, including nitrates. Hence, the resin becomes saturated with nitrates and other contaminants. It’s best to regenerate or replace the resin bed to effectively remove nitrates from the water in the future. 

    Water Distillation Method

    If you want to remove nitrate, dissolved solids, minerals, and other toxic substances from water, you should go for the water distillation method.

    In this method, the water is boiled until steam is produced. The steam is later cooled and condensed into liquid form. While the water is boiling, it removes nitrates and other toxic substances. As a result, you get pure distilled water free of nitrates and other dissolved solids.

    5. Algae Turf Scrubber (ATS)

    Caution: If you have a planted aquarium, DON’T try this method!

    The Algae turf scrubber method is ideal for freshwater aquariums or saltwater tanks through a process called biological filtration. 

    In this method, the ATS device used light and nutrient-rich water flow to encourage bacterial growth, which absorbs nutrients, such as nitrates from the fish tank. ultimately removing them from the core.

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    To speed up the process and effectiveness of ATS, it’s crucial to provide adequate lighting and nutrient-rich water flow for smooth algae bloom. It’s also advisable to clean your algae mats and screens to prevent clogging. 

    6. Refugium Sumps (Saltwater)

    Refugium sumps are a natural form of biological filtration that effectively reduces nitrates in the tank. They are ideal for a saltwater tank.

    In an aquarium system, a refugium sump is a separate compartment that is often stocked with living plants, algae, and other microorganisms. Nitrates and other dissolved nutrients are absorbed by living plants and microbes when water passes through the refugium, changing them into less hazardous forms. The primary aquarium is then filled with purified water.

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    You would normally require a sump tank, a water pump, and suitable lighting for the living plants and algae to set up a refugium sump for nitrate removal. To avoid overgrowth and to guarantee adequate nitrogen intake, the living plants and algae in the refugium would need to be routinely clipped and removed.

    7. Live Rock and Porous Rock (Saltwater)

    Live rock and porous rocks are the types of rocks, which are directly harvested from the ocean. These types of rocks have living organic matter such as bacteria, algae, and invertebrates to break down organic waste, such as nitrates. When the water in your aquarium flows through these rocks, the bacteria in them convert nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is less harmful. 

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    However, the process of biological filtration through these rocks is slow and may be insufficient, depending on the tank size. To use live rock and porous rock as natural filters, just add the rock to your fish tank and let it establish a biological system. 

    Pros

    1. Source of natural biological filtration
    2. Provide a natural aesthetic to the aquarium
    3. Require little to no maintenance

    Cons

    1. They can be costly
    2. Can be contaminated
    3. Takes time to establish a biological filtration system
    4. May not be effective for heavily planted aquariums or stocked aquarium

    8. Feed Less

    Feeding less is one of the most significant ways to lower nitrates in your tank. Also, it’s important to set a feeding routine for your fish. During the feeding time, make sure to shut off all the filters and pumps. Add a smaller amount of food and let the fish consume it all. Feed your fish for no more than 5 minutes. Otherwise, there will be leftover food trapped in filters, leading to higher nitrate levels.

    Key Takeaways:

    1. Always feed smaller amounts of food because overfeeding can lead to increased nitrate levels
    2. Feed only twice or thrice daily to prevent excess waste 
    3. Use high-quality food with fewer fillers and more nutrients for better digestion

    9. Avoid Overcrowding 

    Any aquarium’s nitrate level should directly correspond to how much ammonia the fish produce. Nitrate production increases with the number of fish present. The more fish you have, the more nitrate they will produce. As a result, tanks are frequently overstocked with too many fish and overfed in tanks with persistent nitrate issues. You may reduce the amount of ammonia, fish waste, and subsequent nitrate created by keeping fewer, smaller fish without overfeeding them.

    To avoid overcrowding your tank, start out with one small fish per 10 gallons of water. Later, add two or three fish weeks apart and test the nitrate levels in your tank. As soon as the nitrate levels start to rise, stop adding fish to your tank.

    FAQs

    What is the fastest way to lower them?

    The fastest and easiest way to lower nitrates in your aquarium is by performing partial water changes by removing a portion of tank water and replacing it with fresh, clean water. 

    How do I lower them in my fish tank naturally?

    Fortunately, we have some excellent natural filters in the form of live plants. Live plants absorb nitrates and other nutrients from the tank and promote a healthy natural ecosystem

    What can I put in my tank to lower them?

    You can put nitrate-removing filter media in your filter to lower nitrates in your tank. Additionally, you can also use live and porous rocks if you have saltwater tanks.

    Why are my levels so high?

    There can be several factors associated with high nitrate levels in your fish tank. They can be:

    Too many fish
    Overfeeding
    Improper filtration
    Dead fish or dead plants (decomposing plant matter)
    Tap water high in nitrates

    How do you fix high levels in a fish tank?

    You can fix and avoid the high nitrate levels in your fish tank by testing the water regularly. Also, regular water changes and maintenance is the key to keeping your tank ammonia and nitrite free.

    Can fish survive high levels?

    Yes, but only for a short period of time. Overexposure to high nitrate levels can result in reduced oxygen levels, increased stress, and health-related problems.

    How long does it take for levels to go down in the aquarium?

    It depends on the nitrate levels, the efficiency of the filter system used, the tank size, the water changes schedule, etc. Generally, you will notice a considerable difference in nitrate levels just after a water change. However, if the levels are too high, it may take multiple water changes to reach a safe level. 

    Final Thoughts

    High levels of nitrates can affect the health of your fish and the overall aquarium ecosystem adversely. Therefore, it is important to monitor the nitrate levels through regular maintenance and water testing. It’s also crucial to add live plants in your aquarium to keep the fish healthy, happy, and thriving. Lastly, make sure to never overfeed your fish and overcrowd your tank as it may cause a nitrate spike, leading to severe stress and other health problems. 

    References

  • 8 Signs a Fish Is Dying (And What to Do Before It’s Too Late)

    8 Signs a Fish Is Dying (And What to Do Before It’s Too Late)

    After 25+ years in this hobby, I’ve lost more fish than I care to admit. and the honest truth is that most of those early losses happened because I didn’t know what to look for. Fish that died slowly almost always showed warning signs first. I just wasn’t trained to recognize them yet.

    Catching these symptoms early is the difference between saving a fish and losing it. Some of the signs below are obvious, but a few are subtle enough that experienced keepers still miss them. Here’s what to watch for. and what to do when you spot it.

    Key Takeaways

    • Losing a fish is hard, but it’s important to know what to do when that time comes.
    • There are many symptoms of a dying fish, including abnormal swimming patterns, differences in physical appearance, and trouble breathing.
    • Sick and dying fish are often the result of incorrect water parameters, extreme water temperature, stress, or injury. However, they may also die from old age.

    Is Your Fish Dying?

    If you ask this question, it’s likely too late to save your fish. A healthy fish is colorful, active, and eager to eat. A dying fish might have some obvious external symptoms like cut-up fins, abrasions, inflamed gills, or other signs of parasites. You can check out our video below on our YouTube channel. Subscribe if you like our content and follow along with our blog below. Our blog is more detailed than our video.

    Some behavioral changes might include erratic swimming around the tank, laying sideways on the substrate, gasping for air at the water’s surface, or scratching against hard surfaces. Sick fish may also lose weight from a poor appetite and turn pale in body color.

    Neolamprologus similis fish

    Many of these symptoms overlap with symptoms regularly displayed due to disease and illness. For example, common parasitic infections, like ich, cause the fish to scratch themselves against surfaces in the aquarium and gasp for air. Even though the fish may show these symptoms and look physically damaged, they can still be saved through relatively straightforward treatment methods.

    How do you know that your fish is past the point of being saved, though?

    This is a hard call to make, but it’s easy to know when your fish is on its final days either due to disease or age. That isn’t to say that you shouldn’t keep trying to save your fish until that day comes, though. But at some point, there is nothing you can do.

    Usually, there will be major changes in behavior and appearance. Some of the more foretelling symptoms of imminent death include:

    • staying out in the open once the fish tank lights have gone out
    • staying hidden in rockwork and decorations during the day
    • pale and tattered appearance
    • getting stuck in intake flows
    • getting picked on by other fish and invertebrates

    How To Tell Your Fish Is Dead

    It can be hard to tell when your fish is dead for certain. When they’re dying, it is common for fish to lay on the substrate motionless. Their breathing can be fast and shallow or slow and deep.

    A dead fish will be completely motionless. They may have stiff fins. They may have sunken-in and cloudy eyes. Their body may have started to deteriorate. If you have invertebrates in the tank, they may have even started to break down the body.

    If you’re unsure about whether or not your fish is dead, try to remove it with a fish net. If your fish is dead, then it will most likely be stiff and won’t put up a fight. If your fish is dying, it may be flexible and try to evade being caught.

    Do Fish Float or Sink When They Die?

    You’ve probably seen the cartoon of the dead fish floating upside with crosses over its eyes. Its tongue might have even been sticking out.

    No, this is not what happens!

    When your fish die, generally, they sink. Oftentimes you’ll turn on your aquarium light to find your sick fish nowhere in sight. Once you start checking between rocks and decorations, you’ll often find the dead fish laying on its side on the substrate. If you have invertebrates in the tank, it’s possible that they will have started to eat the fish.

    It is strongly recommended to remove the dead fish as soon as possible to prevent problems with water quality.

    Signs That A Fish Is Dying, Dead, Or Sick

    So what signs should you look out for in your fish? We’ve listed some of the less common symptoms of a dying, dead, or sick fish, but we haven’t listed the ones you’re most likely to see.

    Remember, these can result from a disease or illness and do not always indicate imminent death.

    Swimming Sideways Or Upside Down

    Swimming sideways or upside down is a very worrying symptom. This behavior can display itself in several ways.

    One, your fish may literally be swimming upside down or sideways. This is usually indicative of poor water quality but is also one of the leading symptoms of both swim bladder disease and fin rot (video source).

    Another way this symptom presents itself is your fish rapidly swimming up and down or side to side across the aquarium. This motion can be so fast that they look like they’re swimming upside down or sideways and can even lead to the fish jumping out of the aquarium.

    White Spots On Body

    A healthy fish has bright colors without any discoloration. A fish with white spots on its body is most likely suffering from parasitic, bacterial, or fungal infections. The leading cause for white spots to appear on a sick fish is ich, also known as white spot disease. However, velvet and various flukes can also present as this symptom.

    Loss Of Appetite

    Loss of appetite is seen in nearly all sick fish. However, as long as your fish eats, there is a good chance of recovery. It’s once your fish stops eating that it becomes difficult to keep them strong and bolster their immune system.

    Siamese Algae Eater

    This symptom can be difficult to treat. Hobbyists recommend soaking food in garlic to entice appetite as well as for garlic’s natural healing properties.

    Gasping For Air On The Water Surface

    Gasping for air is a sure sign your fish tank water is poor quality. This is your fish’s attempt to breathe fresh air and get away from harmful toxins. This could also mean that your fish’s gills are being affected either by parasites or bacterial infections.

    Unless your fish has a labyrinth organ, like betta fish or gourami, then it will not be able to breathe at the surface of the water.

    Betta in Fish Tank

    Swollen Or Distended Belly

    Out of all of these symptoms, a distended belly is probably the easiest to diagnose. A swollen belly can be a sign of constipation, which is easy to fix. It can also be a sign of swim bladder disease or dropsy, which are more challenging to fix but easy to diagnose.

    Gills Stop Moving

    This symptom is often paired with sick fish gasping for air at the water’s surface. The most common reasons your fish’s breathing is affected can be due to parasites and other infections.

    Breathing can also become difficult when exposed to poor water quality or other chemicals and toxins in the water.

    Redness On Body

    Redness, swelling, and inflammation of the body can be primary or secondary symptoms. Primary symptoms can be due to cuts and scrapes that your fish has received. Be mindful that redness can also indicate an infection in these areas.

    Secondary redness could be caused by parasites and related infections as well. Swelling and inflammation could even be a mix of a parasitic infection, your fish trying to scrape the parasites off its body, and infection.

    Why Is Your Fish Dying?

    Now that you can tell that your fish is dying, you need to find out why. Most fish species in the aquarium trade are hardy and can adapt to unfavorable conditions and even survive some diseases without treatment.

    Still, the most common reasons you might be dealing with a dying fish are:

    Also, consider how long you’ve had your fish. Most aquarium fish available at the pet store are at least 6 months to a year old. Tropical fish can live for surprisingly long times, with most species having the potential to live up to a decade. However, if you’ve had your fish a long time and nothing seems to be wrong with it, then your fish might be dying of old age.

    At this point, there’s nothing you can do for your fish but give it the best remaining days of its life.

    Common Causes

    Here are some of the most common reasons why your fish might be sick or dying. Keep in mind that many of these issues overlap with one another, along with the symptoms caused.

    Water Quality Issues

    There are many reasons why an otherwise healthy fish may die from water quality issues. One of the most obvious reasons for sudden fish death is adding a ton of fish to a brand-new, uncycled aquarium. This means that fish create ammonia through waste and respiration, which cannot be processed due to the absence of beneficial bacteria that make water conditions safe. As a result, the fish often succumb to ammonia or nitrite poisoning.

    Nitrogen Cycle

    Unfortunately, many new fish keeper enthusiasts make this mistake as they don’t understand the aquarium needs to go through the nitrogen cycle before adding fish. In some cases, the fish tank is cycled, but too many fish have been added at once, leading to overloading the current population of beneficial bacteria. Other times, a water conditioner isn’t used, leading to death from chlorine and chloramine.

    Even in a mature tank, water quality issues cause dead fish. Ammonia and nitrite poisoning are still very real threats for cycled aquariums if tank maintenance isn’t regular. This is especially true if leftover food and waste are left to rot at the bottom of the aquarium and if the filtration system is insufficient.

    An easy fix to water quality issues is performing a weekly or biweekly 10-25% water change. At the same time, siphon the substrate with an aquarium vacuum to remove any unprocessed waste. Regularly use an aquarium test kit to check water chemistry.

    However, one of the more challenging water parameters to keep in check is pH. This is because pH is a very sensitive parameter due to it being calculated on a logarithmic scale. Sudden changes exceeding more than a daily increase or decrease of .50 can cause a fish’s body to stop functioning correctly. This can lead to a very fast and painful death.

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    Another parameter difficult to gauge is dissolved oxygen. Fish need oxygen to breathe. As they breathe, they also release carbon dioxide into the water. This is why aquarium water surface agitation and overall water circulation are so important.

    Water surface agitation helps facilitate gas exchange, meaning bringing in new oxygen and releasing used carbon dioxide. Water circulation helps carry both oxygen and carbon dioxide throughout the water column to prevent dead zones. If fish cannot breathe, then they can suffocate.

    Water surface agitation and circulation can be increased through the use of an air stone, pumps, increased filtration, or more regular tank maintenance.

    Water Temperature

    If water quality is correct, then you still need to worry about water temperature. Aquarium fish are very adaptable to both higher and lower temperatures, but sudden fluctuations and extreme temperatures can cause your fish to go into shock.

    The reality is that too high of a water temperature can cause your fish to cook, while a low temperature can cause your fish to slip into unconsciousness and eventual death. To prevent this from happening, an aquarium heater should always be used for stability for tropical fish and cold weather environments. As aquarium heaters are very prone to malfunctioning, some fishkeeper hobbyists replace their equipment yearly.

    At the very least, the temperature should be checked once a day.

    Stress

    Even if nothing is outwardly wrong with your fish’s body, it may still succumb to stress. There are many reasons why a fish could become stressed. This could be due to incorrect water parameters, incompatible tank mates, lack of space or hiding spots, or disease and illness.

    Even though fish might not die due to water parameters, they’ll still become stressed when conditions aren’t right or when they’re fluctuating. The effects of consistently low amounts of ammonia or nitrite can start to affect fish long-term, leading to early death.

    Fish compatibility is often an overlooked reason for a stressed fish. However, if your fish feels like it needs to fight for its life every day, then it can become injured or malnourished due to competition. The same is true if keeping a schooling fish that isn’t kept with enough related species.

    Keeping a big fish in a small tank can cause the fish to become stunted. This is a physical stress that can start to affect bodily functions over time. A lack of hiding spots can also make your fish feel like it needs to be in constant flight mode, which can cause stress on the body.

    Lastly, stress from having a disease can exacerbate the symptoms of the illness. This is why it’s strongly recommended to move fish to a quarantine tank that can be fully controlled with minimal lighting and other stressors.

    Injuries

    Just like you, getting injured causes extreme stress on a fish’s body. On top of that, many of the medications used to treat injuries can cause even greater stress. Oftentimes, this stress is less than what would be caused by staying untreated.

    Still, aquarium fish are very resilient and will quickly bounce back from an injury if given proper care. Fish can happily live with one eye if need be!

    Action Steps

    Now that you know why your fish is dying, how can you save them? Like any other aquarium problem, you need to treat the cause at the source. The best ways to give proper treatment to a sick fish are through water changes, medications, and lastly, euthanization.

    Water Changes

    Water changes are one of the best ways to treat water and sick fish. Even if your fish isn’t suffering from poor water quality, introducing new water through water changes can help bolster your fish’s immune system and get them on the right track to recovery.

    As mentioned before, regular tank maintenance should include weekly or biweekly 10-25% water changes. Some medications and disease treatments may require more frequent water changes, like one ich treatment method that requires daily water changes.

    Make sure that the source water being used is high-quality, meaning that there is no ammonia or nitrite with minimal nitrates.

    Medications

    Medications are readily available for almost any parasitic, bacterial, or fungal infection found in the aquarium. Medications are not always necessary for the recovery of the fish but can help aid in extreme cases. A gentle and indirect medication, like aquarium salt, can help make the recovery process smoother.

    Keep in mind that many medications are harsh on your fish’s immune system. If your fish is dying, heavy medications may ultimately cause the death of your fish. That being said, the appropriate treatment for some diseases is only through medication.

    Conclusion

    Sadly, losing fish is part of the hobby. It is pretty easy to tell when a fish is dying or not, but it can be harder to tell if they’re past the point of recovery. A few signs of a sick and dying fish are if they have trouble breathing, erratic movements, pale body color, or loss of appetite. These symptoms can be a result of incorrect water parameters, water temperature, stress, or injuries. Also, keep in mind that fish die of old age, too.

    Luckily, there are many medications available that can treat sick fish. But if you find that your fish is suffering, it may be time to humanely euthanize them.

    🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References