Author: Mark Valderrama

  • 21 Types of Guppies: A Visual Guide to Fancy Guppy Varieties and Tail Shapes

    21 Types of Guppies: A Visual Guide to Fancy Guppy Varieties and Tail Shapes

    Guppies were one of my first fish, and decades later I still think the variety in this group is genuinely remarkable. Most hobbyists pick guppies based on color without realizing how different the tail shapes and patterns can be. After keeping many varieties over the years, I put together this visual guide to the 21 most recognizable guppy types โ€” with notes on what makes each one stand out.

    Guppies get written off as beginner fish, and while that’s fair โ€” they’re genuinely forgiving โ€” the variety within the species is something most hobbyists underestimate. Fancy guppies have been selectively bred for decades into dozens of distinct tail shapes and color patterns: delta tails, veil tails, sword tails, mosaic patterns, cobra patterns, and more. Serious guppy breeders treat this like a competitive show hobby, and the results are impressive. Even if you’re not getting into breeding, knowing the different types helps you pick what you actually want instead of grabbing whatever the store happens to have. Here are 21 guppy varieties worth knowing.

    What Is a Guppy Fish?

    Guppies are small fresh and brackish water fish from the Poeciliidae family. There are many popular aquarium fish in this group, including mollies, plays, and swordtails. They are livebearers, which means they do not lay eggs but rather give birth to live free-swimming fry.

    Here is a YouTube from my YouTube channel to get you started. I’ll go into more in detail in this post. If you like videos like this, please make sure to like and subscribe!

    Read on to learn all about guppies, their care, and the different types that you can keep and breed!

    What Makes Them Such Great Pets?

    Guppies are probably the best beginners fish in the hobby, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t excellent for experienced fishkeepers too.

    Guppy Fish

    Guppies are:

    • Very affordable
    • Highly attractive
    • Easy to care for
    • Easy to breed
    • Active and fascinating to watch

    Guppies seem to have it all!

    In Their Natural Habitat

    Guppies are adaptable to a variety of natural habitats in their native distribution. They prefer slow-moving or still waters and are most at home in pools of streams and rivers or ponds and swamps. These fish are mostly found in freshwater although they have been recorded in brackish water too.

    Guppy fish have also established populations all over the world after being released into the wild to control mosquito larvae. They also populate local waterways when they are released from fish tanks or escape from ponds. Who knows, there could even be some wild guppies near your home!

    The History Of Guppy Keeping

    The guppy was first sent to Europe from the Caribbean island of Trinidad. The name of the man responsible for introducing this fish to the hobby was Robert John Lechmere Guppy, and the year was 1866. The fish was officially named Giradinus guppyi1.

    He was not the first European to discover the fish, however, that honor goes to a German man named Julius Gollmer who found these fish in the wild many years before. Guppies have been kept for over 150 years, and they are just as popular as ever!

    The International Guppy Associations

    International Guppy Association

    Fancy guppies are bred and kept all over the world. International associations have been created to bring hobbyists together and attempt to standardize the hobby. The International Fancy Guppy Association (IGFA) is one of the best examples.

    IGFA was founded in 1965 and has developed show standards for the various breeds of fancy guppy. They are also a great resource for keepers who would like to learn more about the fascinating world of guppy breeding.

    The IKGH is another very important international association that was formed in 1981. They have been active in the guppy breeding hobby ever since, holding regular shows and competitions all over the world.

    3 Types by Species

    There are many wild guppy fish species, but the three most commonly kept types are listed below.

    1. Micropoecilia picta

    Micropoecilia picta fish
    • Common name: Scarlet livebearer, swamp guppy, painted guppy
    • Adult size: 1.2 inches
    • Origin: South America, Caribbean
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons

    The scarlet livebearer is a brackish water species that is found in the Caribbean and Countries like Brazil and Guyana. They are also known as swamp guppies or painted guppies.

    They have red or orange overall color but are also boldly marked with various other colors. Females swamp guppies are larger than males. They are a hard water species and they are at home in slightly brackish water.

    2. Poecilia wingei

    Endler's Livebearer
    • Common name: Endler’s livebearer, Endler’s guppy
    • Size: 1-1.8 inches
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

    Endler’s livebearer is an awesome nano guppy species from Venezuela in South America. Endler guppies reach a maximum size of about 1.8 inches. The males are much smaller and more colorful than the females.

    3. Poecilia reticulata

    Fancy Guppy Fish
    • Common name: Common guppy, fancy guppy
    • Size: 1.5-2.5 inches
    • Origin: South America, Caribbean
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Water type: Fresh/brackish
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons

    The common guppy is one of the most popular aquarium fish on the planet. These fish are available in a huge variety of breeds known as fancy guppies.

    They are native to the northeastern parts of South America and the Caribbean islands. They grow to about 2.5 inches in length, with females growing larger than males.

    21 Types by Variety

    Now that you know a little more about guppies and their history, it’s time to learn about some of the amazing fancy guppy varieties out there in the hobby. I’ll provide a brief explanation of the most important features of each type.

    Before we get started, here are a few important terms to know:

    • Dorsal fin: The fin on the back of a fish. The shape and length of this fin are important for identifying many of the fancy guppy breeds.
    • Pectoral fin: The pectoral fin is located on the side of a fish’s body, just behind its head. There is a pectoral fin on either side of the body.
    • Caudal fin: Caudal fin is the technical name for a fish’s tailfin. Tail shape and tail patterns vary pretty extensively between the different guppy types.

    Now that we’re all up to speed on the fancy fishy words, let’s jump right in and meet some fancy guppies!

    1. Fantail

    The fantail guppy is a very common breed that is easy to find. The males have large, beautiful caudal fins that are about as long as the fish’s body! The standard for the breed is a long, triangular tail with straight edges.

    The dorsal fin is also a distinctive feature of this breed. It should sweep back to about the first third of the tail.

    2. Delta Tail

    The delta tail guppy (video source) is also known as the triangle tail guppy. They are very similar to the fantail guppies but the outer edge of their tail is slightly convex (rounded outwards). Delta tail guppies come in all sorts of different colors and patterns.

    3. Lyretail

    Lyretail guppies have very interesting tail shapes. In case you were wondering, a lyre is an ancient U-shaped musical instrument, and that’s where these fish get their name.

    This tail shape is similar to the double swordtail, but the extensions curve outwards slightly, instead of being straight and parallel.

    4. Roundtail

    Round tail guppies (video source) have a circular tail fin with a diameter about half the length of their body. Their dorsal fin is pretty long and has a rounded end. The round tail guppy breed is available in a huge range of different colors and patterns, so there’s a round tail to suit any fishkeeper’s eye!

    5. Half-moon Tail

    https://youtu.be/Ub1VsZY-0Q0

    The half-moon tail guppy (video source) is similar to the round tail but has a larger, fuller caudal fin. The tail is semicircular, starting at 90 degrees (right angles) to the fish’s body.

    The tail is not quite as long as the body but can be even taller than the fish is long! The dorsal fin on halfmoon tail guppies is also large and overlaps the tail a little.

    6. Spear Tail

    Speartail Guppy

    The spear tail guppy is another interesting fancy guppy breed. These fish have rounded tails that form a point in the middle, just like a spear tip.

    The dorsal fin shape of this breed is also a great feature. It starts at nearly 90 degrees to the body and sweeps back to about a third of the length of the tail fin.

    7. Pin Tail

    The pintail or needle tail guppy (video source) has a small circular tail shape with a sharp point extending from the middle. It is very similar to the spear tail guppy in this respect, but the pointed caudal fin is even more prominent in this breed. The dorsal fin is also quite long and sharply pointed, creating a bold and dramatic-looking fancy guppy.

    8. Tuxedo

    Tuxedo guppies (video source) are very elegant little fish, just as their name suggests! This popular breed was first developed in Germany.

    The tail half of their body is black or another solid color. The tail and dorsal fin will also be a different color to the dark half of the body, but without any spots or patterning.

    9. Sword Tail

    There are a few different varieties of the swordtail fancy guppy breed. The swordtail breed of the fancy guppy should not be confused with the swordtail fish (Xiphophorus hellerii) which grows much larger.

    Double swordtail guppies have both the top and bottom of their tail fins elongated to form a sword shape. They can also be found in top or bottom swordtail forms where only one end of the tail is pointed. The middle section of the tail should not be colored, and this really makes the ‘swords’ stand out.

    10. Cobra

    Cobra Guppies

    A colorful guppy fish with green and black coloration on its tail

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    Cobra guppies come in a variety of colors, but it is their markings that set them apart. These amazing fancy guppies have a combination of reticulated markings and often have darker vertical bars too. The markings on their tails are often bolder than those on their bodies.

    11. Lace

    Lace guppies have incredibly intricate markings on their body and fins. They are similar to cobra guppies but lack the vertical bars on their body. Lace guppies are available in various colors, including red, gold, black, and many others.

    12. Mosaic Tail

    Mosaic tail guppies have amazing markings on their tails and dorsal fins. The markings are similar to those of the lace guppy, only much bolder. The tail coloration of this breed becomes darker and more intense from the start of the fin to the back.

    13. Albino

    Albino guppies lack pigment, which makes them pinkish-white overall. This makes for a tropical fish that really stands out in the aquarium.

    Their eyes are also a pinkish color, which differentiates them from other white guppies. Albino guppies can have some color though, they often show some red, yellow, or blue markings on their bodies and fins.

    14. Japanese Blue

    Japanese blue guppies (video source) have a metallic dark blue to sky blue color on the tail half of their bodies. The head is often golden or reddish in this breed. The Japanese blue swordtail guppy is a particularly popular tail shape form of this breed.

    15. Green

    Green Guppy

    Green guppies are one of the best color schemes if you ask me. They are considered relatively rare, but available in many different patterns and tail shape types.

    16. Yellow

    Yellow (video source) is a very cheerful color, and a bunch of sunshine-colored guppies can make for a great display. Yellow guppies are available in various breeds including yellow tuxedos, and yellow cobra guppies.

    17. Half Black Green

    The half-black green guppy has a black back half of its body and a green front. There are many different half-black color combinations, but green is one of the rarest forms.

    18. Koi

    This fancy guppy fish breed is named after another popular fish. Like their larger namesake, koi guppies usually have a combination of white, red, and black colors.

    19. Panda

    The panda guppy (video source) is mostly black/blue and white in color. The tail half of the fish tends to be dark while the front half is a silvery color. These fish have dark pectoral fins and dark eyes too.

    20. Dragon

    Dragon guppies have one of the most dramatic color schemes of all the breeds. These fish are known for their fiery red fins with a half-black guppy body.

    21. Dumbo Ear

    Dumbo ear guppies (video source) have huge pectoral fins that look almost like the ears of an elephant! Even though their name sounds kind of goofy, these fish take finnage to the extreme and they are incredibly graceful and beautiful to watch.

    Other Notable Types

    Just in case you’re interested in even more types of guppies, here’s a list of some other popular types that you can look for!

    Color types

    • Half black purple guppy
    • Half black blue guppy
    • Half black yellow guppy
    • Half black pastel guppy
    • Blue guppy
    • Red guppy
    • black guppy
    • Neon blue guppy
    • Purple guppy
    • Bronze guppy
    • Glass guppies

    Tail types

    • Flag tail guppy
    • Fire tail guppy
    • Leopard tail guppy
    • Grass tail guppy

    Keeping and Caring

    After looking at all the amazing types of guppies in this article, you might have already chosen a favorite and be thinking of adding them to your collection. Read this section to learn the basics of caring for these fantastic fish!

    Tank Setup

    Guppies can be kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons. Such a small tank would only be appropriate for a small group of male fish, however.

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    The last thing you want is for these fish to start breeding and overpopulating a small tank, so I would suggest going up to a 20-gallon or larger if you plan on keeping a mixed group.

    Filtration

    Adequate filtration is really important for keeping tropical fish healthy, and guppies are no exception. There are many makes and models available, and any type that is rated for your aquarium size or larger will do.

    You don’t need the most expensive filter to maintain healthy guppies, but I would recommend running a slightly oversized model. An even better choice is to run two filters. Not only will this provide you with a safety net should one fail, but it will also allow for the increased bioload once your fish begin breeding. A power filter is the best combo of filtration capacity and budget when it comes to guppies.

    Heating

    Guppies are hardy fish that are comfortable in temperatures down to the lower 70s (Fahrenheit). Pregnant female guppies have been reported to be more susceptible to ich at lower temperatures, however, so maintaining breeding fish at 78-80ยฐF is advised. Using an aquarium heater will make this much easier!

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    Lighting

    Guppies do not have any special lighting needs. Standard fluorescent or LED lighting will suit them just fine. You will only need to look into high-quality lighting if you wish to grow a lot of live plants.

    Provide your guppies with a regular light period of 6 to 8 hours a day. Using a timer will make keeping regular timing much easier.

    Live Plants

    Guppies thrive in planted aquariums and the cover that plants create provides a great place for guppy fry to hang out. Plants are also very useful for increasing oxygen levels and taking up nitrates from the water column.

    Although guppies will nip at decaying plant material and eat microorganisms from your plants, they generally do not damage live plants. Guppies prefer hard, alkaline water, so your choice of plants is slightly more limited.

    Here are a few easy plants that you can grow in your aquarium:

    Decor

    Guppies are not fussy when it comes to ornaments and decorations. They are confident and active little fish that do not hide out too much. Choose your decorations based on the style or theme of the aquarium you are putting together, and don’t be afraid to use your creativity!

    Remember though, only use aquarium-safe decorations and make sure you wash them carefully before adding them to the tank.

    How To Care

    Guppies are very easy fish to care for, but there are still some important things you should know before bringing them home. Read on for more information.

    Tank Maintenance

    Perform a partial water change at least every second week in your guppy tank to keep nitrate levels down. If your tank is heavily stocked, or you’re feeding the tank frequently because you have a lot of fry, you might want to increase this to once or even twice a week. Remember to use a water conditioner if you are using tap water in your aquarium.

    The only way to know whether you’re doing enough tank maintenance is to measure your water parameters regularly. Pick up a liquid or strip test kit for this purpose.

    Be very careful when performing water changes if you have a lot of fry in the aquarium. I suggest carefully inspecting the water you take out of the tank just in case any fry get sucked up!

    Apart from regular water changes, all you really need to do is clean your glass with an algae scraper when necessary and follow the recommended maintenance schedule for your filter.

    Important Water Parameters

    • Water temperature: 72-80ยฐF
    • pH: 7-8
    • Hardness: 143 โ€“ 536 ppm
    • Nitrate: Less than 20 ppm
    • Nitrite: 0 ppm
    • Ammonia: 0 ppm

    Feeding

    Guppies are naturally omnivorous and the modern domestic guppy is not fussy about diet at all. A high-quality flake food is a perfect everyday food source for these fish.

    For a more balanced diet, I recommend supplementing their diet with an unprocessed food source like bloodworms, daphnia, or brine shrimp. These are available frozen so they are very easy to use. A small amount of these once or twice a week will improve your fish’s health and condition.

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    Tankmates

    One of the best things about guppies is their peaceful nature. They are confident little fish that are always active and visible in the aquarium. They get along great with many other tropical freshwater fish.

    The most important factor to consider when picking guppy tankmates is their water parameter compatibility. Guppies thrive in hard, alkaline water, so their tank mates should be comfortable in the same environment.

    Let’s take a look at some good guppy tank mates, and some species to avoid.

    Good Tankmates

    Tankmates to Avoid

    Health and Disease

    Guppies are generally hardy fish, so they are not especially prone to any problems. As a rule, the best way to prevent health issues is to minimize stress. Let’s take a look at some of the best ways to prevent guppy illness:

    • Perform regular aquarium maintenance for great water quality
    • Avoid overfeeding your fish
    • Avoid overstocking your aquarium
    • Maintain appropriate water parameters
    • Avoid aggressive tank mates

    Unfortunately, poor health and disease can happen even when you’re doing everything right. Here are some of the most common guppy health issues to look out for:

    • Ich (white spot disease)
    • Columnaris (Saddleback/ cotton wool disease)
    • Hexamita (Hole in the head)
    • Camallanus worm

    Breeding

    Breeding guppies is extremely easy, so this is a great species to get started with if you’ve never bred tropical fish before. Guppies are livebearers, which means that female guppies give birth to live baby fry. Each female guppy can give birth every month, which means you’re guppy population can grow very quickly!

    Female guppies can breed after just 2- 3 months, although it is better to let them grow a little older before they start breeding. Such a short generation time makes guppies an amazing species for breeding projects.

    Sexing

    Sexing guppies is very easy because adults are sexually dimorphic. This means there are clear physical differences between the sexes that are easy to spot. Let’s take a closer look at some of these guppy sex differences:

    • Body size

    Overall size is probably the most obvious difference between male and female guppies. Adult females are significantly larger than males.

    • Body shape

    Female guppies have a much more rounded body shape than males, especially when they are pregnant. Males have a very slender build.

    • Finnage

    Male guppies have much larger fins in comparison with their body size. Their fins are usually much more heavily patterned and colored too.

    The anal fin of male guppies is modified into a structure known as the gonopodium. It is narrow and elongated in comparison to the triangular anal fin of the female.

    • Color

    Male guppies are much more boldly marked and colorful than females in general.

    Pregnant female guppies do have a unique marking that easily identifies them from males, however. Look out for a dark triangular marking on the belly, just in front of the anal fin. This marking is known as the gravid spot and will confirm that the fish is a pregnant female.

    • Behavior

    Female guppies spend most of their time foraging while males spend a lot of time swimming around the females, trying to get their attention.

    Caring for fry

    Guppy fry are easy to care for. The fact that they are born live means that you don’t have to worry about egg predation from the other fish in the tank. Unfortunately, adult guppies have no problem eating guppy fry, so it is best to separate them to increase the survival rate of the babies.

    Catching all the tiny fry to move them to a separate tank is not going to be easy. Moving a pregnant female over to your fry tank is a much better option! You can go ahead and move the mother fish back into the main tank once she has given birth.

    Another great option, which is less stressful on the pregnant female is to add a breeder box to your tank. If you’re not too worried about some of the babies being snacked on, simply growing some floating plants in the tank will provide them with a place to hide out until they are big enough to swim out in the open. I’ve found that water wisteria works great for this, but Java moss will work just as well or even better.

    Guppy fry are tiny but hardy little fish. They can be fed the same flake food as the adults, but you’re going to want to crush it up for them. You can use a pepper grinder for this or simply crush the flakes in the palm of your hand.

    Preventing Breeding

    While breeding guppies may be a fun and fascinating hobby, it is important to have a plan for the fry! The only reliable way to prevent guppies from breeding is to keep only male or only female fish.

    Mature females are often already pregnant when you bring them home, so males are a safer bet. When buying female guppies for a breeding project, look for females without very swollen bellies and obvious gravid spots.

    Where to Buy

    Most local pet stores will sell mutt guppies, and sometimes also a selection of different breeds. For specific breeds, you may need to order online or contact local clubs and breeders.

    FAQS

    How many types are there?

    There are an amazing number of different guppy types available in the hobby. There are 12 officially recognized tail types alone and combined with the various colors and patterns, the number becomes almost infinite!

    Can different types live together?

    Different types of guppies can be kept together without any problems. Fancy guppies will breed freely together, so don’t mix them if you’re planning on breeding specific types.

    How many should be kept together?

    Guppies should be kept in groups of at least 3 or more. If you are keeping both males and females, keep at least 2 or 3 females for every male. This will give the females a break from all the attention.

    How many times a day should I feed them?

    Guppies can be fed just once a day. These fish will spend much of their time foraging in the aquarium for algae and other food sources. Guppy fry will benefit from more frequent feeding, however.

    What is their lifespan?

    Healthy guppies will live for 1-3 years in captivity. There are reports of them living as long as five years, however.

    Final Thoughts

    I think guppies deserve more appreciation than they get. These fish are the complete package, for all experience levels. The fact that new breeds are still being developed makes this fish even more exciting!

    Do you keep guppies? Tell us about your favorite guppy types in the comments below! To learn more about guppy lifespan, check out this article here.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Endlers Livebearers – A Complete Care Guide

    Endlers Livebearers – A Complete Care Guide

    Endlers livebearers are one of those fish I always recommend to hobbyists who want the color and activity of guppies without the fuss. I’ve kept them in small planted tanks and community setups alike, and they never disappoint โ€” the males put on a constant show, and they’re incredibly hardy. After 25 years in the hobby, they remain one of my favorite nano fish.

    When it comes to choosing a fish for your tank, there are endless possibilities. However, one of the best options for starters is the Endler’s livebearer. These little beauties are vibrant and easy to care for, making them an excellent choice for anyone just getting started with keeping fish. In this guide, we’ll go over everything you need to know about caring for Endlers livebearers, from feeding and tank requirements to breeding them successfully. So keep reading to learn more about these amazing fish!

    Species Overview

    Scientific NamePoecilia wingei
    Common NamesEndler’s livebearers, Endlers, Endler’s guppy, guppies
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    OriginVenezuela
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan1-3 years 
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelMiddle and top
    Minimum Tank Size10 gallons
    Temperature Range64 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness1 โ€“ 12 dKH
    pH Range5.5 – 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLivebearer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Origins and Habitat

    Authentic Endlers originate from the Campoma and Buena Vista lagoons in northeastern Venezuela. These areas are very unique in their formation as they were originally categorized as having brackish water conditions. This was the result of a sandbar being formed over time which created a division from the nearby ocean. As freshwater runoff and rain filled the lagoon, it slowly became less and less brackish until it became fully freshwater.

    Upon the discovery of Endlers in the wild, this water was notably warm and hard with algae covering most surfaces; this is different from the habitats of other related species that typically enjoy cooler waters instead.

    Right now, this ecosystem is threatened by runoff from a nearby waste facility. The status of wild populations of Poecilia wingei is currently unknown and undocumented by the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species1, though it is believed that numbers are dwindling. It is also believed that Endlers have spread to nearby areas of Venezuela, which brings some hope to their remaining populations.

    Interestingly, Endlers were originally discovered in 1937 by Franklyn F. Bond and then later discovered in 1975 by John Endler.

    Are They a Type of Guppy?

    Taxonomically, Endlers livebearers are their own species, Poecilia wingei, and guppies are their own species, Poecilia reticulata. There has been a lot of debate about how closely these two species are related and if they are actually one and the same. In fact, Endlers were originally discovered in the same ecosystems as wild guppies, though they were not found to interbreed even though hybridization is possible.

    Recent findings suggest that Endlers are undoubtedly a species of their own separate from Poecilia reticulata and another closely related guppy, Poecilia obscura. There have also been attempts to group these three guppies in their own subgenus called Acanthophacelus.

    For now, the debate carries on about exactly how these species are related.

    What Do Endlers Livebearers Look Like?

    Endler's Livebearer

    When placed next to a typical freshwater guppy, it’s clear to see how Endlers could be considered the same species.

    Endlers grow to be about 1 inch at their absolute biggest. They have slim bodies with a round stomach and rounded tail. These fish display sexual dimorphism like regular guppies, which makes the males easy to identify from the females.

    Standard Endlers livebearer females are very plain in color. They are brownish-green in coloration with a white abdominal cavity. Endlers livebearer males are much more desirable due to their smaller bodies yet bright colorations. Males have orange streaks down the sides of their bodies that continue onto the margins of their tapered fins. Patterning across the body is random with overlays of black, yellow, and sometimes blue or white. The base color is similar to that of the female.

    However, breeding Endlers livebearers has become a specialization in order to achieve the best colors and patterns possible. Because wild populations aren’t accessible, almost every Endlers livebearer fish available in the hobby is the result of selective breeding. From this, a few different varieties have been made popular.

    Varieties

    The original types of Endlers livebearer guppy are those that were collected when wild populations could still be found. These guppies are known as the Campoma guppy and many of the Endlers available today are descendants from this line.

    Other varieties have also been bred from this line:

    El Silverado Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Silverado’). Male El Silverado’s have nearly metallic bodies with a large silver patch accented by orange, black, and green markings.

    El Tigre Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘El Tigre’). Male El Tigre’s have a nearly black base color. Along the sides of their body are alternating yellow, green, orange, and darker grey striping.

    Yellow Tiger Endler’s Livebearer (Poecilia wingei var. ‘Yellow Tiger’). Male Yellow Tiger’s are very ornate with unique black and yellow patterning covering the majority of their body. In contrast, females are plain and standard colors.

    In order to preserve the natural colors found in wild populations, Endlers have been bred with common guppies. In the aquarium hobby, these fish are referred to as a ‘Class K’ Endler. Fish that can be traced originating from Venezuela are known as a โ€˜Class N’ Endler.

    One of the truest variations of Endlers is the Red Flame Endlerโ€™s Livebearer. These peaceful fish have splashes of green, orange, black, and white and represent the standard appearance of this species.

    Size

    As mentioned before, female Endlers livebearers only grow to be about 1 inch. Male endler’s livebearers can range anywhere from 0.5-1.0 inches and are significantly smaller than their mates. This is in comparison to the common guppy which can grow up to 2.0 inches.

    As we’ll discuss, these mature sizes make them the perfect candidates for nano aquariums, but their high activity levels will need to be considered. The small size of the endlers livebearer also makes them more susceptible to getting caught up in aquarium filtration, like filters and powerheads.

    How Long Do They Live?

    On top of being small, Endlers do not live long, unfortunately. Most fish only live to be 1-3 years old. It is also believed that female Endlers may have shorter lifespans if they regularly spawn. Luckily, an Endlers livebearer population can sustain itself once established.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Endlers livebearers are very active swimmers that will stay towards the top and middle sections of the aquarium; they may venture down to the lower portions of the tank from time to time but you’ll most often find them waiting to be fed at the surface.

    In terms of temperament and activity level, these freshwater fish are identical to guppies. They’re constantly moving, looking for something to eat or a female to chase. Because of this, it’s important to keep a high female to male ratio to keep fish from getting stressed out.

    Otherwise, these the Endler’s livebearer will show their brightest colors when happy and healthy.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Endlers livebearers are the perfect community freshwater fish. They don’t bother anyone but themselves and can add beautiful accents of color to an otherwise boring stocking.

    In general, male and female Endlers livebearers can be kept with any fish that is labeled as community-friendly. However, keep in mind that these fish are highly active which could easily stress out other fish sharing the same areas of the tank.

    That being said, some of the best Endlers fish tank mates are:

    Betta fish are considered okay. While males can chase and try to pick at Endlers, they are faster than guppies and mollies so they tend to be okay in larger tanks.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Endlers are schooling fish. They are naturally bold and curious on their own but they are most comfortable in a group setting.

    At the same time, you will need to keep a high ratio between male and female Endler’s livebearers to prevent harassment. It is recommended to have three females for every one male Endler. The starting number of fish should be around three or four and should be increased depending on tank size.

    If male Endlers ever outnumber female Endlers, you may have a problem with bullying and/or overpopulation.

    Least Compatible Fish

    Just as common guppies are fed as feeder fish to bigger prey, Endlers will also be seen as prey to some aggressive species.

    A good rule of thumb is to avoid freshwater fish that would be able to fit an Endler in their mouth. Though fast, Endlers make a good snack, especially if they’re annoying another larger fish by being too active.

    Surprisingly, another bad tank mate for Endlers is the common guppy. This isn’t because these two fish won’t get along, but it’s because they’ll get along too well. Guppies and Endlers have been known to hybridize and produce fertile offspring. While this isn’t a problem as long as those fish stay in contained systems, authentic Endler lineages can be lost in the process.

    If you don’t mind losing the true appearance of the guppy or Endler guppy, then this combination is possible. Otherwise, one or the other should be chosen.

    Inverts

    Endlers livebearers are a popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks, like those with red cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) and Amano shrimp (Caridina multidentata).

    These fish stay at the top of the tank while the shrimp stay at the bottom. There is little to no chance that an Endler guppy can fit a shrimp into their mouths, though they may pick at any smaller fry that are in the aquarium.

    Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers are completely invert-safe and can be kept with snails and microcrabs. Some larger crabs and crayfish could see your Endler guppies as a meal, though they may be too fast to catch.

    What Do They Eat?

    Endlers livebearers are omnivores with extremely small mouths. They aren’t picky eaters and will even enjoy grazing on some of the available algae throughout the tank, but will display their best colors when provided with a well-varied and high-quality diet.

    For the most part, these fish will do just fine on a high-protein freshwater fish flake food or pellet food like Xtreme Aquatics Nano. Flakes are more preferred for beginners as they can be easily broken up for easier feeding.

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    Otherwise, Endler’s livebearers may be given a variety of live and frozen foods. They’ll especially love an assortment of worms, like bloodworms and Tubifex worms, as well as brine shrimp. They may also be given blanched vegetables from time to time as long as they can easily be digested by your fish.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    Chances are that you’ll be greeted at the top of the tank by a group of hungry Endlers any time you go to open the aquarium hood. These fish are always willing to eat! But keep in mind, the more you feed, the more waste they will make.

    Endler’s livebearers are very small yet very active fish. This means that they can’t eat a lot at one time, but they need energy throughout the day to keep them going. It’s recommended to feed manageable portions two to three times throughout the day. This schedule will keep them fed without introducing too much waste into the aquarium.

    If the tank is mature and stocked with live plants, then these peaceful fish can get some of their nutrition from the microflora that’s already available. They’ll especially like picking at algae growing on guppy grass (Najas guadalupensis).

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Being a hardy community fish, Endler’s livebearers can be kept in most tank setups. However, these fish look their best when the tank is set up around them to accent their colors and movements. If keeping some of the higher-end varieties, then you’ll especially want to show them off!

    Tank Size

    Most sites will say that a 10 gallon fish tank will happily house a small school of Endlers livebearers. While this is true, the top of the tank will likely be overwhelmed by their activity. It’s better to give them a slightly larger tank, like a 20 gallon long, where they have more surface area to fill.

    Having a bigger tank also allows for more tank mates, though many hobbyists like to keep active livebearers together. At some point, it can become a little silly to have 100 Endlers in a 100 gallon fish tank!

    Filtration

    Endler’s livebearers are small, but they have a fast metabolism. This means that they will quickly process foods and fill the tank with waste. Because hobbyists usually have a large group of them, this can add up and can cause problematic water parameters, especially if the tank is fully stocked.

    These fish can tolerate higher water flows and will even enjoy fighting against a strong current. However, an overly strong water flow can easily push these small fish around. Hang on the back and canister filters may need to be baffled to keep your fish from getting hurt.

    The better alternative to an external filter is an internal sponge filter. Not only do sponge filters keep the water clean and oxygenated, but they are also completely safe for more delicate fish, like Endlers.

    Because many Endler’s livebearers are kept together at once, it is recommended to go with a bigger filter than what is recommended. Remember, waste can add up very quickly!

    Water Parameters

    Endlers livebearers are very hardy fish and will adapt to most water conditions as long as they don’t change too quickly. Making sure Ammonia and Nitrite are zero and nitrates are low are common things to check and monitor with a test kit. You can enhance your filtration and perform water changes and tank maintenance to maintain great parameters.

    Unlike some other livebearers, Endler guppies actually prefer warmer and harder water. Water temperature should stay between 64ยฐF โ€“ 82ยฐF with 78ยฐF being the most optimal for the success of other species. Most aquarium-bred Endlers have adapted to live in 1-12 dKH water hardness and a near-neutral pH of 7.0.

    For the most part, these fish will forgive minor fluctuations in water parameters, making them a great and easy choice for beginners. Still, it is recommended to properly quarantine and acclimate new fish before adding them to the aquarium to reduce the risk of shock and transfer of disease.

    Breeding

    Not only are Endlers livebearers incredibly hardy, but they’re also some of the easiest fish to breed in the aquarium hobby (video by The Dave). So much so that you’ll actually have problems getting them to stop breeding rather than to start.

    Male Endlers are very easy to tell apart from females. At least three females should be kept per male at all times. If you don’t want to end up with a hundred baby Endlers in your aquarium, only buy males or females. Do not combine them because they will breed.

    Otherwise, breeding is a matter of when rather than how. Good water parameters, a high-quality diet, and a natural tank setting will all help your fish feel comfortable enough to reproduce.

    When your fish are happy, you will notice the males flashing and displaying their fins to females, occasionally chasing after them too; note that males can become overly eager, damaging fins and even killing females in extreme cases. For the most part, this isn’t anything to worry about, though aggression should be monitored.

    Once successful, females will have an average brood of about 15 baby fish; as a type of livebearer, Endlers do not lay eggs and fish are free-swimming once born. Adult females can reproduce again after about a month after spawning.

    Fry can be given small foods, like baby brine shrimp. To increase the odds of baby fish living to adulthood, remove them from the tank and place them into another system until they can’t be eaten; it is unlikely for adults to eat their young, but it’s possible if fish are underfed.

    After about 2 months, the fry will be ready to reproduce on their own.

    Final Thoughts

    Endlers livebearers are the perfect addition to community tanks lacking in color. These fish are small yet highly active and very forgiving when it comes to beginner’s mistakes. Though they’re recommended for smaller tanks, we recommend giving more space for them to swim and explore.

    Plus, it’s better to have more room than not enough when your fish start to reproduce!

  • 11 Best Goldfish Tank Mates: What Actually Works (Cold-Water Only)

    11 Best Goldfish Tank Mates: What Actually Works (Cold-Water Only)

    Goldfish tank mates are one of the most common questions I get, and after keeping goldfish for years I can tell you the cold-water requirement eliminates most tropical fish right away. I’ve seen people add neon tetras to a goldfish tank and wonder why they die within weeks โ€” water temperature alone is the culprit. When you stick to true cold-water species, you’ll have a much better experience.

    Goldfish tank mates are one of those topics where a lot of online advice goes wrong โ€” mostly because people ignore the cold-water requirement. Goldfish do best between 65 and 72ยฐF, which immediately rules out the vast majority of tropical community fish. Neon tetras, guppies, and angelfish are not goldfish tank mates, regardless of what you might read. What actually works are other cold-tolerant species: dojo loaches, white cloud minnows, weather loaches, and of course other goldfish. There’s also the bioload issue โ€” goldfish are messy fish, and any tank mate needs to tolerate the high-nutrient environment that comes with them. This guide covers the 11 species that genuinely work.

    Choosing Goldfish Tank Mates – What You Need To Know

    When it comes to choosing goldfish tank mates, there are a couple of different factors you need to consider. If you already have goldfish, their happiness should be your number one priority. Of course, you also need to think about the welfare of the other species of fish you plan to add.

    Here are the most important factors to think about:

    Temperament

    Firstly, assuming you already have some pet goldfish, you need tank mates that will not harm or bully them in any way. This goes both ways, of course, so basically, you need to prevent any form of aggression. This means you need to avoid any territorial species of fish that are known to be aggressive or nip fins.

    Size

    The best tank mates for your goldfish are species that are similar-sized and will not be able to eat your goldfish. Goldfish will eat smaller fish that are slow enough to catch, so you need to think about it from both angles.

    Competition

    It’s very important that every animal in the tank has fair access to food. This is especially important when choosing tankmates for some of the slow-swimming fancy goldfish breeds that might not be able to get enough food.

    Parameters & Setup

    Goldfish have certain water parameter preferences, and their tankmates need to be comfortable in the same conditions. All of the following parameters should be considered:

    Author Note: the biggest limiting factor when it comes to tank mates. While a goldfish can adapt to higher temperatures, it’s not ideal. And many tropical fish will struggle with the lower temperatures a goldfish can tolerate.

    11 of the Best

    With all of the factors above in mind, we’re ready to look at some great goldfish tank mates for your aquarium. All of the recommended goldfish tank mates are peaceful fish that can be kept in the conditions you should already have in your goldfish tank.

    Check out the video below from our YouTube channel. If you like our content, please subscribe as we upload new videos every week!

    Take note of the following important stats for each of the goldfish tank mates in the list:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Compatibility
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum tank size
    • Care Level
    • Diet
    • Origin
    • Swimming Level

    So let’s meet some goldfish tank mates!

    1. Other Types

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Adult Size: 6-8 inches
    • Water Temperature: 65-72ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: China and surrounding Asian countries
    • Swimming Level: Midwater

    This might seem like an obvious choice, but it’s important to note that different breeds of goldfish aren’t always compatible with other fish species and even other goldfish.

    There are many amazing goldfish breeds, and they can be separated into two categories to make things a little easier:

    Fancy Breeds

    Fancy goldfish are some of the most colorful and ornamental fish breeds in the aquarium hobby. They often have long, flowing fins and strange body features like telescopic eyes and missing dorsal fins.

    These slow-moving goldfish can be tough to find tank mates for because they can be pretty clumsy and can struggle to get to the food before other fish do. They are often uncomfortable in flowing water because they are poor swimmers. On the plus side, these fish are super peaceful and usually no threat to their tankmates.

    The following breeds are all known as fancy goldfish:

    Fast-moving (AKA Slim-Bodied)

    Goldfish are not particularly fast fish, but the wild types and other slim-bodied goldfish are stronger swimmers that can even catch other small fish sometimes! These goldfish are less likely to be outcompeted for food by faster tankmates.

    It is best to keep fancy goldfish with similar breeds, and common goldfish with other slim-bodied breeds.

    2. Japanese Rice Fish

    • Scientific Name: Oryzias latipes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 61-72ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Swimming Level: bottom, middle, and top

    The Japanese rice fish, or Medaka fish as it is also known, is a great nano cold-water fish that can live with goldfish. These schooling fish are available in a variety of colors, including silver, golden, and orange.

    Japanese rice fish are hardy and make ideal fancy goldfish tank mates. Even though they are small enough to be eaten by hungry goldfish, they are usually way too fast to be caught.

    3. Dojo Loach

    Dojo Loach
    • Scientific Name: Misgurnus anguillicaudatus
    • Adult Size: Up to 12 inches
    • Compatible with: Most goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-74ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 55 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: Eastern & Central Asia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Dojo loaches make great goldfish tank mates because they are peaceful and enjoy the same water parameters. These guys get pretty large, however, so you’ll need a tank of at least 55 gallons to give them enough swimming space.

    Dojo loaches are also known as weather loaches. They are bottom dwellers that are happy to feed on the same food sources as your goldfish, which makes them very easy to care for.

    4. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

    White Cloud Minnow
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 57-71ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: China
    • Swimming Level: Middle

    White cloud mountain minnows are very popular tank mates for goldfish. These peaceful freshwater fish are also comfortable in relatively cold water. They come in some beautiful varieties, including golden and long-finned forms.

    White cloud mountain minnows are colorful fish that grow to just 1.5 inches or so, which means it is possible for a full-grown goldfish to swallow them whole. It is safer to keep them with slow-moving fancy goldfish that are too clumsy to catch them.

    5. Bristlenose pleco

    Bristle Nose Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Adult Size: 4-5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 70-78ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Herbivorous
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The bristlenose pleco is a sucker fish that can make a good goldfish tank mate for more experienced keepers. These interesting fish require plenty of driftwood to graze on as well as some hiding places to feel secure.

    Bristlenose plecos can be kept in cooler water than other tropical fish, but their temperature preference only overlaps with the goldfish by a few degrees. Regulating the water temperature with a heater is the safest way to keep both species happy if kept together.

    6. Hillstream Loach

    • Scientific Name: Sewellia lineolata
    • Adult Size: 2-2.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-75ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Diet: Eats algae
    • Origin: Vietnam & Laos
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The hillstream loach must be one of the coolest looking aquarium fish in the hobby. They can make a great tankmate for goldfish, but there is one important catch.

    These fish need good water flow and oxygenation to replicate their natural environment. You could use an internal filter or a small powerhead to create an area in the tank with good flow, but this will mean avoiding weak swimming fancy goldfish breeds.

    7. Rosy Barbs

    Rosy Barb in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Pethia conchonius
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3.5 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 61-75ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 25 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Bangladesh, Pakistan, Nepal, India
    • Swimming Level: Middle

    Rosy barbs, like goldfish, are part of the Cyprinid family. These social fish can be a little badly behaved if kept on their own or in small numbers. Keep a group of at least 8 to 10 rosy barb fish to ensure they remain peaceful.

    8. Variatus Platy

    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus variatus
    • Adult Size: 2-2.8 inches
    • Compatible with: Fast-moving goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivorous
    • Origin: Mexico
    • Swimming Level: bottom, middle, and top

    The variatus or variable platy fish is another colorful freshwater fish that makes a great tank mate for goldfish. They enjoy cooler water temperatures and they are both peaceful and very easy to keep.

    Platys are livebearers, which means they will produce plenty of fry if you keep both males and females in the same tank. The fry will be eaten by the goldfish, which is good for keeping the population down, but not great if you want your platies to multiply!

    9. Hoplo Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Megalechis thoracata / hoplosternum thoracatum
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Compatible with: All goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-82ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    The hoplo catfish (video source) is a very hardy and peaceful nocturnal catfish. They are perfectly safe to keep with goldfish, but they can eat small fish like white cloud minnows or rice fish.

    Hoplo catfish love to dig through the substrate, so keep them over fine sand, and expect them to rearrange the floor somewhat. These fish should be kept in a group of at least 5 and be sure to provide some hiding places like driftwood or caves.

    10. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Compatible with: Fancy goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 64-77ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Carnivorous
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming Level: middle and top

    Zebra danios are a great little schooling fish species that also do well in cooler temperatures. These peaceful fish can make good goldfish tank mates, even though they are technically small enough to be eaten. Danios are speedy and lively fish, so this usually isn’t a problem, but keeping them with slower goldfish is the safest bet.

    11. Mystery Snails

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Compatible with: All goldfish breeds
    • Water Temperature: 68-84ยฐF
    • Minimum tank size: 5 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Diet: Eats algae
    • Origin: Brazil, Peru, Paraguay, Bolivia
    • Swimming Level: Bottom

    Mystery snails make excellent tankmates for goldfish. These colorful aquarium snails look great and help to keep your tank clean by eating leftover food scraps. They are hard-working creatures and can even help to keep your glass and substrate clean by feeding on algae!

    Unfortunately, young specimens and other freshwater snails will not be safe from a hungry and curious goldfish. Mystery snails can grow to over two inches, however, which is too big to be on your goldfishes menu!

    Companions To Avoid

    Now that you know eleven of the best goldfish tank mates, let’s run through a few species that you should avoid.

    Tropical Fish

    Goldfish are coldwater fish that do not occur in tropical regions. They prefer to live in a temperature range between about 65ยฐF and 72ยฐF. Any tropical fish that needs warmer water temperatures will not make a suitable tank mate. here are a few examples

    Aggressive, Territorial & Fin-nipping Fish

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    Goldfish should never be kept with aggressive tank mates. Long goldfish fins are prime targets for fin-nipping fish, and fancy breeds are not strong enough to defend themselves against bullies. In the aquarium hobby, there are a few ‘prime suspects’ to watch out for like:

    You’ll also want to avoid keeping any smaller fish that could be dangerous if swallowed like:

    Freshwater Shrimp

    Goldfish are omnivorous, which means they feed on both plant and animal matter. Inverts like cherry shrimp and bamboo shrimp are definitely on the menu, so you can expect a hungry goldfish to see them as a tasty snack.

    They might survive fine with plenty of hiding spaces, but it’s not worth the risk. Even slow-moving fancy goldfish are likely to eat freshwater aquarium shrimp eventually.

    Community Tank Setup

    Now that you know more about suitable goldfish tank mates, let’s take a look at how to set up your own peaceful goldfish community aquarium!

    Introducing Tankmates

    While all the species in this list have been proven to get along great with goldfish, it’s important to understand that fish can have individual personalities and their behavior can be complex.

    Make sure you have some sort of backup plan in place in case there’s any unexpected conflict. It’s also a good idea to quarantine any goldfish tank mate for at least 2 weeks before introducing it to your aquarium.

    Tank Size

    The size of your goldfish community aquarium will depend on the number and type of fish you keep. A single goldfish needs a tank of 20 gallons at the very least, and this should be increased by a further 20 gallons for every additional goldfish you keep.

    White cloud mountain minnows, for example, are nano fish that can be kept in aquariums as small as 10 gallons, so adding a small school will not have a big effect on the bioload of your goldfish tank. The dojo/weather loach on the other hand is a large fish that should be kept in a tank of at least 55 gallons.

    Heating

    Goldfish prefer cooler water temperatures than tropical fish so they can often be kept in an unheated aquarium. Naturally, this will depend on the temperature in your home, office, or wherever you keep your goldfish tank.

    Author Note: If the room temperature range varies between 65ยฐF and 72ยฐF, you will not need a heater to keep goldfish. You will need to heat or cool the water if the temperature rises or falls below these values, however..

    The temperature preferences of the 10 goldfish tank mates in this list all vary, but they do overlap with the goldfish’s preferred parameters by at least a few degrees in each case. Running a heater can make it a lot easier to keep your aquarium temperature dialed into that ‘happy medium’.

    Filtration & Aquarium Maintenance

    Goldfishes create a large bioload in the aquarium, and adding tank mates will put even more pressure on your filtration system. This means excellent filtration is necessary to maintain great water quality.

    Goldfish are not the strongest swimmers, and the fancy breeds in particular will not enjoy a strong water current. A good-quality canister filter is a great option for your goldfish tank, especially if fitted with a spray bar to minimize the water flow and oxygenate the water.

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    Supplementing this with a hang-on back, or sponge filter is a good way to increase your filtration capacity and can also be seen as a great ‘insurance policy’ in case either filter fails.

    Your filtration system will keep your aquarium water looking beautiful while working to convert the ammonia in fish waste and uneaten food into nitrates. These nitrate levels should be monitored regularly using your test kit. At high levels, nitrates become toxic to your fish, so work out a partial water change schedule that keeps your nitrate levels to 20 ppm or less.

    Live Plants

    Growing live plants in your aquarium has a number of great benefits for your goldfish- and they look great too! Unfortunately, goldfish are notorious for eating aquarium plants, so you need to choose your species carefully. Here are a few goldfish-friendly plants that you can grow in your tank:

    Keep in mind that even if your goldfish doesn’t eat your plants, they can uproot them. Plants that do not need to be planted in substrate or float will work best with goldfish.

    Substrate & Decorations

    A layer of aquarium sand or gravel on the bottom of your tank can create a more natural habitat for your fish to forage on. Many goldfish tanks are successfully run without any substrate at all, however. This is a great way to keep your aquarium spotless and clean, but it does not create a very natural environment.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Adding decorations and hardscape features like rocks and driftwood is a great way to add structure to your tank and provide your goldfish and their tank mates with a more natural home. Goldfish with long, flowing fins are vulnerable to tears and damage from sharp objects, so make sure that everything in your aquarium has smooth, rounded edges to avoid any injuries.

    Where To Buy

    This list of goldfish tankmates was chosen to include species that are easy to find. You should be able to find most of these fish down at your local fish store. Alternatively, you can check out trusted online retailers. Some specialty online dealers will have rare breeds available.

    FAQs

    Can you mix them with other fish?

    You certainly can mix goldfish with other fish. The secret is to choose the other species based on their needs and temperaments, rather than just their looks. Tank mates for goldfish community tanks should always be chosen with caution.

    Can any other fish live with them?

    Goldfish are probably easiest to keep with other members of their own species. There are many other fish species that can live with goldfish, however. The tank mates listed in this article all make great additions to well-planned goldfish community aquariums.

    What Fish can I pair with them?

    The white cloud mountain minnow and dojo loach/weather loach are two examples of popular tank mate choices among goldfish keepers. They may be very different fish, but each can get along great with goldfish if kept under the right conditions.

    Final Thoughts

    Choosing companion fish for your goldfish doesn’t have to give you sleepless nights. Choose one of the great species listed in this article to create your own peaceful goldfish community tank today!

    Do you keep companion fish with your goldfish? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Molly Fish Care: Complete Guide (Including Why Salt and Hard Water Matter)

    Molly Fish Care: Complete Guide (Including Why Salt and Hard Water Matter)

    Mollies are a fish I’ve kept on and off for over two decades, and they’re far more interesting than most beginners realize. The salt and hard water preference is real โ€” I’ve seen molly tanks crash when kept in soft, acidic water that would be perfect for tetras. Get the water chemistry right and they thrive, breed readily, and add great color and movement to any community setup.

    Mollies are one of the most underappreciated livebearers โ€” they get lumped in with guppies and platies as beginner fish, which is fair, but there’s something that sets them apart: they’re one of the few freshwater fish that can genuinely tolerate brackish water and even light saltwater. I’ve seen mollies kept successfully in reef sumps. They also do noticeably better with a little aquarium salt and harder water than most fishkeepers bother with. Skip the salt and keep them in soft, acidic water and you’ll eventually see the shimmy disease that mollies are famous for โ€” a wobbling, shimmying behavior that signals stress or illness. Get the conditions right and they’re virtually bulletproof. Here’s the full care guide.

    Brief Overview Of The Molly Fish

    Scientific NamePoecilia sphenops, P. latipinna, P. velifera, etc.
    Common NamesMolly, molly fish, sailfin molly, shortfin molly, balloon molly, etc.
    FamilyPoeciliidae
    OriginUnited States of America, Mexico, Colombia, Venezuela, etc.
    DietOmnivorous
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityHigh
    Lifespan2 – 5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful/ semi-aggressive
    Tank LevelMidwater
    Minimum Tank Size15 gallons
    Temperature Range72 ยฐ to 82 ยฐF
    Water Hardness15 – 30dH
    pH Range7.0 to 8.5
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to Moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingLive bearer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Mostly, may eat soft plants

    Molly Fish Origins and Habitat

    The popular molly fish of the aquarium hobby are native to the North and South American countries of the United States, Mexico, Colombia, and Venezuela. They have also been introduced to some Caribbean islands and East Asian countries.

    In nature, the molly fish lives in a huge variety of different habitats. Mollies are euryhaline, which means they can live in varying salinity.

    They are most often found in freshwater environments, temporarily moving into brackish water in coastal areas. They are also occasionally found living and breeding in pure saltwater too, which is really amazing!

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like

    Molly fish are so variable in shape, color, and markings, that it’s tough to describe just what they look like! I’ll go into a little more detail on the various species and breeds in the next section, but generally speaking, mollies are solidly built mid-sized aquarium fish.

    One very noticeable feature is the unusually thick base (peduncle) to their tails. On the opposite end, their heads are sharply pointed in profile when viewed from the side. The head is wide across when viewed from above, with their mouths positioned right in front of their faces.

    They also have very big eyes, and their lower jaw sticks out a little further than the top. These are the features that are most obvious in all mollies.

    Species

    There are about 40 species in the Poecilia genus, including other well-known livebearers such as the common guppy. A handful of common molly species are popular in the aquarium trade, and they have been bred with each other to produce hybrids and various color morphs.

    Let’s take a look at some of the more common molly fish types:

    Sailfin Molly – Poecilia latipinna

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium

    Sailfin mollies have huge dorsal fins that they can lift up to look just like a sail. This is a natural body feature that the males use to impress the females. These beautiful fish are scientifically known as Poecilia latipinna.

    Sailfin mollies are relatively small, reaching a maximum length of about 5 inches. This species actually occurs naturally in the United States, living wild as far north as North Carolina.

    Shortfin Molly/ Black – Poecilia sphenops

    The shortfin or black molly is one of the most common types of molly. Black mollies are smaller than the sailfin, reaching a maximum size of less than 5 inches.

    In the wild, they are naturally silvery with some color on their fins. The black molly fish is the most popular color breed of this species.

    Giant Sailfin- Poecilia velifera

    The giant sailfin molly fish is the largest of the common species. These Mexican fish can reach a length of 7 inches in the aquarium. They have a huge dorsal fin like the regular sailfin but can be told apart by having more fin rays (18-19), and round spots on this fin.

    Varieties

    The various molly species are able to interbreed, and aquarists have crossed them to create an amazing array of different varieties. Selective breeding has refined the results, creating fish with different body shapes, finnage, colors, and patterns.

    Here are a few of the most popular molly types:

    • White Molly Fish

    White mollies are a pure, bright silvery color. They should not be confused with albinos which have more yellowish color and pink eyes.

    • Golden Molly Fish

    Mollies are also available in amazing golden-orange colors. They can be uniformly golden colored or flecked with black like the gold dust molly. Specimens that are partially golden and partially white are known as creamsicle mollies.

    • Dalmatian Molly Fish

    Dalmation mollies are whitish fish that are covered in fine black spots, just like dalmatian dogs. The blotching is quite variable, and these fish are sometimes known as marbled, or salt-and-pepper mollies.

    • Lyretail Molly

    Lyretail molly fish have elongated rays at the top and bottom of their tail fins. Lyretail mollies are available in all the different colors varieties, which makes them great for aquarists who want that extra bit of flair in their aquarium.

    • Balloon Molly

    Balloon molly fish come in a variety of colors, including black, white, golden, and marbled. What sets balloon mollies apart is their rounded bodies, almost like an inflated balloon! This is not a natural feature, however, but rather a trait that has been selectively bred for.

    Size

    Molly fish vary in size depending on their species, variety, and gender. Adult mollies vary from a little over 3 inches, right up to about 7 inches in length. Females are usually larger than males, but this is not always the case.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The typical molly fish lifespan is from two to five years. This depends on a variety of factors, though, including their level of care, diet, and genetics.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Mollies are active and confident fish that are always busy and lively. They are generally peaceful community fish, but here are a few scenarios in which mollies might be semi-aggressive. We have a video from our YouTube Channel that goes into detail about their care and temperature. Check it out below.

    Mollies are usually very peaceful with the other species of fish in the tank, especially if they are kept in a group. Males can be a little aggressive with one another when competing to breed, however. They will also harass the females pretty relentlessly, which is normal behavior for the species.

    If you don’t mind your fish breeding, the ideal stocking rate is a ratio of one male to two or three females. This will take some of the pressure off the females.

    They can also be quite competitive with each other around mealtimes. As long as each fish is getting enough to eat, this isn’t too much of a concern though.

    What Are Good Tank Mates

    Mollies are great fish for a carefully planned hard water community tank. They are highly versatile and these fish thrive in many different setups provided they are happy with the water parameters.

    Choosing the right tank mates for your molly fish is very important too, of course, so read on to learn about some great options.

    Best Tank Mates For Companions

    Ember Tetra

    The first thing to note is that all tankmates should be comfortable in the same hard water conditions that your mollies prefer. Mollies can be kept in anything from fresh to saltwater, so I’ve grouped these tank mates according to the type of water they live in.

    Mollies are euryhaline fish, but most other species are not, so never mix other freshwater fish with saltwater tank mates or vice versa.

    Freshwater tankmates

    Brackish Water Tankmates

    Saltwater Tank Mates

    Molly fish are one of the few fish in our hobby than can be converted over to a saltwater aquarium. There are steps on how to do this (more on this later). They make great algae eaters, but they are small in comparison to many saltwater fish and may be bullied. Here are a few possible candidates.

    • Other mollies
    • Percula clownfish
    • Peaceful blennies and gobies
    • Royal grammas

    Least Compatible Fish For Companions

    As adaptable and versatile as mollies are, some fish will not get along with them. Take note of the following tips to avoid any problems:

    • Avoid tank mates that need soft acidic water conditions
    • Avoid any aggressive tank mates that could eat or bully your mollies
    • Keeping mollies with shrimp is not recommended
    • Avoid very small and shy fish that are easily intimidated

    What Do They Eat?

    Mollies are omnivorous fish that eat both plant and animal matter. Sailfin mollies in particular need plenty of plant material in their diet. They are not fussy eaters and actually do a great job of cleaning up scraps and uneaten food in the aquarium.

    Let’s take a look at some of the best food sources for these fish.

    Prepared Foods

    Live & Frozen Foods

    Vegetables

    • Zucchini
    • Lettuce
    • Spinach

    Algae

    Mollies love to eat biofilm, and surface scum. They are also known to eat other types of algae like green algae, black beard algae (BBA), hair algae, brown algae, and blue-green algae. This makes them valuable members of your clean-up crew!

    How Much and How Often to Feed Them

    One of the most common mistakes in the fishkeeping hobby is overfeeding. But how do you know how much food your fish need?

    Mollies don’t waste time when there’s food around, so if they haven’t finished everything after 2 minutes or so, you can assume you’ve given them too much food.

    Sure, they might finish the leftovers later, but what about the food that gets sucked into the filter, settles in the gravel, and otherwise goes to waste? Well, this leftover food tends to rot and results in poor water quality.

    That’s why it is best to feed small amounts 2 or 3 times a day, rather than a large amount just once a day.

    Setting Up Your Tank

    Setting up a great aquarium for mollies is easy because these fish are very adaptable. Nevertheless, there are some important things to know before putting a tank together. Read on for more details.

    Tank Size

    Molly fish can be kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, and sometimes even less. In such a small tank, you could keep up to four mollies if you have good water filtration and perform regular aquarium maintenance. A 20 gallon long is a good candidate to start with.

    A larger tank would be a better bet, however, especially if you plan on keeping a bigger school or other species of community fish.

    Plants

    Mollies thrive in planted aquariums. Beware though, mollies are omnivorous fish and they have been known to feed on delicate, soft-leaved plants. Tougher species like these plans below will do well with Molly fish:

    A mix of tall plants like Vallisneria in the background with Java ferns in the midground and some anubias nana petite in the foreground could make a tough and simple but beautiful planted aquascape for these fish.

    Substrate

    Substrate type is not critical when it comes to keeping mollies. Any aquarium-safe sand or gravel will work just fine. If your water is not naturally hard and alkaline, it is a good idea to incorporate some crushed coral into the substrate.

    Decor

    Molly fish are not particular about the decorations in their tanks so you can use your creativity to put together an aquarium that suits your eye.

    Adding some driftwood and rocks is a great way to create a more natural tank environment, but there’s nothing wrong with putting in some aquarium-safe ornaments and decorations too.

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    Water Quality

    Mollies are known as hardy fish. So much so that some hobbyists use them to cycle new fresh and saltwater aquariums.

    Nevertheless, maintaining high water quality is very important if you care about keeping your fish in good health for the long run. Maintaining great water quality for your mollies relies primarily on good filtration and aquarium maintenance.

    Read on to learn more about these, and other important water quality factors.

    Filtration

    A good filtration system usually means the difference between a sparking, pristine aquarium, and a toxic and dangerous environment for your fish. Aquarium filters work by literally filtering out particles in the water, a process known as mechanical filtration.

    You might not know how much more is happening behind the scenes though!

    Microscopic life forms known as beneficial bacteria take up position and colonize the sponge and other media in the aquarium filter. These beneficial bacteria make their living by feeding on some pretty toxic chemical compounds (like ammonia) that enter the water through fish waste and uneaten food. This process is known as biological filtration and is very important for your fish.

    Air-powered sponge filters, internal power filters, hang-on back filters, and external canister filters can all be used to perform these vital functions. Just make sure the filter you choose is rated to filter your tank size or larger.

    Water Parameters

    Mollies are adaptable to a fairly wide range of water temperatures from about 70ยฐF to a little over 80ยฐF. This means they can be kept in unheated aquariums in many cases.

    I would recommend using a heater to keep the water temperature stable in the middle of that range because they are comfortable in tropical climates with warmer water.

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    Mollies can live in fresh, brackish, or even saltwater. In a freshwater aquarium, they must be kept in hard or at least fairly hard water for their long-term health and survival. The alkalinity should be basic, i.e. above 7.2.

    Even though they have a reputation as hardy fish, mollies are not immune to the effects of ammonia and nitrite in the water. Aim for the following levels:

    • Nitrate (NO3): Less than 20 parts per million
    • Nitrite (NO2): Zero parts per million
    • Ammonia (NH3): Zero parts per million

    Salt

    One of the biggest debates around molly fish care is their salt requirements. Many fish keepers will tell you that you need to add salt to the aquarium to keep these fish happy, but this is not necessarily true.

    The salt these fish require does not necessarily need to be regular aquarium salt (NaCl), even though they are highly tolerant of various salinities. Calcium and magnesium, i.e. the elements responsible for hardening water are essential, however.

    Mixing crushed coral into your substrate or using a product like Seachem Equilibrium is a great way to increase water hardness if your tap water isn’t quite hard enough for mollies.

    Acclimating To Saltwater

    You may have heard that some aquarists keep mollies in saltwater. As strange as this sounds, it’s absolutely true! Properly acclimated mollies make awesome saltwater fish because they are so affordable and do a great job of eating certain kinds of algae. The video above from Everyday Aquarist goes through the process. I’ll explain more below.

    You shouldn’t pick up a couple of mollies from the pet store and drop them straight into a reef tank. Mollies are highly adaptable, but if the change in salinity is too rapid, they could go into osmotic shock.

    The most successful techniques involve slowly replacing the freshwater with salt water over a period of one to two days. This gentle acclimation will be a lot less stressful for the fish. Just be sure to provide the fish with an airstone during this process if they are in a bucket or small tank for acclimation.

    Slow acclimation can be achieved by siphoning saltwater in from a tank or bucket and allowing the excess to overflow. The saltwater needs to be introduced very slowly, so a drip rather than a flow is recommended. An accudrip acclimator can be used to make the setup easier.

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    Use a refractometer to measure and monitor the salinity of the water. Specific gravity should not go above 1.025.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is vitally important for keeping healthy molly fish. A weekly partial water change is recommended to keep nitrate levels down, and this is a good time to give the tank a general clean as well.

    Remember to treat your tap water with a water conditioner before adding it to the tank. If your aquarium filter media needs to be rinsed out, use tank water that will not harm the hard-working colonies of beneficial bacteria.

    Testing

    Testing your water parameters regularly is absolutely vital if you wish to keep healthy mollies in the long run. Pick up a master test kit that can be used to measure the following parameters:

    • pH
    • Hardness
    • Ammonia
    • Nitrate
    • Nitrite

    These are the most important parameters to keep an eye on if you are keeping mollies as freshwater fish, but if you are keeping them in brackish or saltwater, you’ll need a hydrometer to measure specific gravity too.

    Breeding

    It is very easy to breed mollies. These fish are livebearers, which means the females give birth to live fry instead of laying eggs. If you have adult male and female mollies in your tank, and they are happy in their environment, they will breed freely.

    Sexing Mollies

    Successfully breeding molly fish requires having both males and females. But how do you tell the difference?

    Fortunately, sexing these fish is easy once they are old enough to show differences in gender. This usually takes at least a few months with mollies.

    Let’s take a look at some of the most noticeable gender differences:

    • Male mollies are usually smaller and more colorful than females
    • Male mollies have a larger dorsal fin than females
    • Female mollies have a well-developed anal fin, whereas the anal fin of males is modified into a narrow, elongated structure known as a gonopodium
    • Male mollies will spend a lot of time trying to entice the females. They will chase and swim around them
    • A pregnant female molly will develop a large, rounded belly with a characteristic gravid spot just in front of the anal fin. This spot will be very difficult to see on a black molly fish

    Raising & Protecting Fry

    Molly fry are very small and vulnerable to being eaten by the other fish (including mollies) in the tank. Ideally, the pregnant female should be moved to a separate breeding tank before giving birth.

    Alternatively, you can use a breeding box in your aquarium to keep the baby fish safe until they are too big to be swallowed. The fry can be fed a diet of baby brine shrimp or flake food that is crushed up into a powder form.

    Preventing Breeding

    Female molly fish are pregnant for about 2 months, and can give birth to over 50 fry! This means the population of fish in your tank can rise pretty dramatically if you allow it.

    The best way to prevent breeding is to keep only female fish. Pregnant females can store sperm for a few broods after mating, so separating adult mollies will not stop the female from producing fry right away.

    Health And Disease

    Naturally, you want your molly fish to live a long healthy life, so what are the problems to look out for? Read on to learn more about the health and wellness of these popular aquarium fish.

    Evaluating Their Health

    Evaluating your fish’s health requires careful observation. Start by looking at the fish’s physical appearance. Try to answer the following questions:

    • Do the eyes look swollen or unhealthy?
    • Are the fins torn or clamped against the body?
    • Does the fish have very long stringy white feces?
    • Is the fish covered in white spots or any tiny parasites?
    • Is the fish very thin, or heavily swollen (skip this for balloon molly fish!)

    If the fish looks physically healthy, there are still behavioral warning signs to look out for.

    • Is the fish breathing rapidly?
    • Is the fish having trouble swimming or just shimmying at the top of the tank?
    • Is the fish flashing and scratching its body against the substrate?
    • Is the fish floating or sinking?
    • Is the fish avoiding food?

    If you answer yes to any of these questions, there is most likely a problem with the fish. You can go through these questions before picking out your fish from the pet store, or just for monitoring your fish at home.

    Common Health Issues

    Mollies are most likely to suffer health problems when their tank conditions are not suitable. This can be the result of soft water, poor water quality, or a lack of space in a crowded tank.

    Mollies are typically bred in brackish waters, and the shock of being put into freshwater at the pet store or in your home is another potential problem. These are all causes of stress for your fish, and stress puts them at high risk of common freshwater diseases and disorders like:

    • Ich
    • Columnaris
    • Velvet
    • Popeye
    • Camallanus worms
    • Swim bladder disorders
    • Shimmies/Livebearer/ Molly disease

    Where To Buy

    Mollies are common and easy to find down at your local pet store. They are affordable fish, although you can expect the price to vary depending on breed and color pattern.

    They are also available online of course, which is great for aquarists who don’t have a good local fish store nearby.

    FAQS

    Are they easy to care for?

    Molly fish are moderately easy to care for which makes them a good choice for beginner aquarists who are willing to do some planning. They will thrive if you can provide them with the water parameters and quality they need.

    How many mollies should be kept together?

    Mollies are social fish that should be kept in groups of at least four fish. You should always keep more female mollies than males, so a group of three females and one male would be the lowest recommended number.

    Do mollies need a heater?

    Mollies are typically thought of as tropical fish, but if you look at their natural distribution, you’ll see that this isn’t strictly true.

    They can be kept in an unheated aquarium if the water in your tank stays consistently within their preferred range of 70-82ยฐF. Using a heater will protect the fish against any cold snaps, and keep the conditions more stable, however.

    Can they live in tap water?

    Molly fish can be kept in tap water that is naturally hard and alkaline. You should always treat tap water with a water conditioner to neutralize chemicals like chlorine and chloramine, however.

    Can mollies live with Betta?

    It is possible to keep mollies and bettas together, but they are not ideal tank mates. Even though mollies are usually peaceful fish, they do occasionally nip at fish with large flowing fins.

    Final Thoughts

    Mollies are hands-down one of the best fish in the hobby. They look great, they’re adaptable, and they’re great for eating algae too! I hope this article has cleared up some of the confusion for you and helps you keep your molly fish happy and healthy.

    Do you keep mollies? Tell us about your experiences with these amazing fish in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 11 Types of Freshwater Eels: What They Actually Are (And What to Expect)

    11 Types of Freshwater Eels: What They Actually Are (And What to Expect)

    Freshwater eels are a category I find genuinely fascinating, mostly because so few of them are true eels โ€” and that distinction matters when you’re planning a tank. I’ve kept fire eels and tire track eels over the years, and the biggest lesson I learned is that these fish need more space and hiding spots than most people expect. A tight-fitting lid is non-negotiable; I’ve seen them escape through the smallest gap.

    Freshwater eels are one of those categories where the label is misleading โ€” most of what gets sold as a “freshwater eel” is actually a spiny eel from the family Mastacembelidae (fire eels, tire track eels, peacock eels), which aren’t true eels at all. That’s not a knock on them; they’re fascinating fish with real personality. But it’s worth knowing what you’re actually buying. A few things apply across the whole group: they’re escape artists that need a tightly sealed lid, they’re mostly carnivores, and many get significantly larger than people expect. After 25 years in the hobby, these are the 11 types I’d point someone toward if they want to add an eel-like fish to their tank.

    What are Freshwater Eels?

    The freshwater eels are nocturnal eels, meaning they prey at night with their rather weak eyesight but an incredible sense of smell. Freshwater eels are catadromous, living their entire lives in freshwater and migrating downstream to spawn in the ocean.

    True freshwater eels belong to the family Anguillidae and the genus Anguilla. Around 15 to 20 freshwater species of eels fall into the Anguilla genus, including the very popular American eels, Moray eels, Spaghetti eels, and European eels. Unlike other types of eels, Anguillidae freshwater eels have scales on their body and they are a crucial source of food in some parts of the world, especially in Europe where they’re bred on farms at large scales.

    Very few species of freshwater aquarium eels acquire the aquarium hobby. Among them, the most popular is from the genus Mastacembelidae, classified as spiny eels, such as the tire track eel and fire eel.

    Some Fun Facts About Freshwater Eels

    Here are some fun and bizarre facts about freshwater aquarium eels.

    An Eel is just elongated versions of fish

    It would surprise you, but many years ago, people confused eels with snakes, because of their uncanny resemblance. However, according to their anatomy, they are just an elongated version of fish.

    However, eels differ from fish in a number of ways, including the absence of pelvic fins and lack of pectoral fins in some eels. Also, the dorsal fins and anal of eels are merged with the tail, forming a single strip running along with most of the eels’ length.

    Ardent Swimmers

    Freshwater eel species are bottom. They prefer holes, the bottom layer of your tank, and other hidden places to bury themselves in the substrate. They love to dig deeper in the dirt and plants to take full advantage to surprise their prey with occasional attacks.

    Below 41ยฐ, Eels Go Torpor

    During extreme winters, when the temperature reaches below 41ยฐF or 5ยฐC, freshwater eel species dip themselves in the mud and enter into a stage, similar to hibernation, known as torpor.

    Diverse

    According to research, there are approximately 800 species of eel. 110 genera, 19 families, and four suborders that we term eels.

    Favorite Treat

    Some cultures such as Japanese, Korean, and Chinese feast on eels. Interesting enough?

    That’s Not All.

    These cultures identify eels as a popular cuisine and it costs way more expensive. In Hong Kong, only a kilogram of eels would cost you around 1000 HKD. That’s because eels are known to boost stamina and energy levels, especially some species of eel, including European eels, jellied eels, longfin eels, etc.

    They Could Easily Kill You

    Have you ever wondered why eel is always served cooked?

    That’s because the blood of eel is highly poisonous and it could potentially kill you. The blood of eels contains a toxic protein that can cramp your body muscles, including the heart, leading to sudden death.

    They Can Swim Backward

    The body of the eel is attenuate shaped, starting with a long, slimy body that ends with a powerful tail. Therefore, their body shape allows freshwater eels to wiggle and swim backward after their prey.

    No One Knows How They Reproduce

    Humans for hundreds of years have tried to figure out how eels “do it”. Want to learn more? Check out this article!

    11 Best Freshwater Varieties to keep as Pets

    Now that freshwater aquarium eels have got all your attention, it’s time to dig a little more about the top 12 types of eels you can keep as pets. We have a video below from our YouTube Channel. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week! We will go into more detail in the blog post below.

    Let’s revamp your aquarium with my top recommendations.

    1. Freshwater Moray

    • Scientific Name: Muraenidae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Shy and semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: 6โ€“ 150 inches in length (7.6 โ€“ 400 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 15-30 gallon tank
    • Diet: Carnivore, Prefer live food, such as brine shrimp, earthworms
    • Origin: Tropical and Temperate Waters
    • Temperature: 24 โ€“ 28ยฐC / 75 โ€“ 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.0 to 9.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Almost impossible in a tank
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If I would have to name one risky freshwater aquarium eel, it has to be the freshwater moray eel (video source). Not because they are a difficult or aggressive fish, but due to their finicky nature. Moray eels are easily stressed if not provided with the right environment. Therefore, if you’re a busy fishkeeper or a novice, I suggest you look out for other options.

    Habitat and Water Conditions

    The origin of freshwater moray eels stems from the saltwater of tropical and subtropical regions, where there are coral reefs in abundance. Freshwater morays are secretive in nature and prefer hiding in the rocks.

    Most of moray eels live in saltwater environments. However, some are found in brackish water and certain species of eel are found in freshwaters. That being said, Moray eels can be quite sensitive to freshwaters. Therefore, extensive experience is required to keep them as pets.

    Appearance

    Your first impression of Moray eels would be a scary one. With their snake-like appearance and a long, slender body with the absence of pectoral fins, patterned bodies, and sharp teeth, the first look of Moray eels is no good.

    However, it’s still a popular choice of aquarium fish among many enthusiastic aquarists because of their behavior.

    Behavior

    Hobbyists adore freshwater moray eels for their peculiar behaviors such as team hunting, adaptability, snake-like swimming capability, and sneaky nature that provide an outstanding spectacle in your aquarium.

    I understand it can be overwhelming to keep a moray eel in your home aquarium considering their size and extra demanding nature, but they are an absolute treat for your display tanks once their basic needs are met.

    2. Fire

    Fire Eel in driftwood
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus erythrotaenia
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: 20 inches (60.8 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 80 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.8-7.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with floating plants

    Although not true eels, fire eels make a beautiful freshwater aquarium fish that you cannot resist. With over 20 inches in length, the fire eel is a distinctive yet huge breed that requires maximum space in your aquariums.

    Origin

    The fire eel is native to South Asia. They are usually found in the lowland rivers of Vietnam, Thailand, Myanmar, and Sumatra.

    Appearance

    The fire eels range from dark gray to dull black in color with striking red and yellow horizontal stripes, extending from the head to the tail. The markings on the eel are like that of fire flames painted on a hot rod. Hence, the name.

    Adult Size

    In the wild, the size of fire eels is much bigger than in captivity. And so, you can expect a fire eel to reach a length of around 3 feet or longer. However, in captivity, they can get about 20 inches long, making them the largest species of spiny eels in the aquarium world.

    Due to their big size, they need a bigger space with at least a 55-gallon tank size and water temperature should be around 76ยฐF with a neutral pH.

    Behavior

    Fire eels are usually shy and prefer to stay aloof most of the time. They are also bottom dwellers, burrowing in the sand. To cater to this behavior, I suggest using sand as a substrate in your aquarium so that they don’t harm their slender bodies.

    Also, like most freshwater aquarium eels, these eels are nocturnal, meaning they are the most active during nighttime. However, you can train your interesting pets to come out during the day to feed and hunt.

    A fire eel likes to feed and swim around during the night. If you keep the room and tank dimly lit, your pet fire eel might come out more often during the day.

    As far as the plants are concerned, these types of eels are messy and voracious eaters. Therefore rooted plants are not suitable for their tank. Hence, keep floating plants to keep them happy.

    Tankmates

    Fire eel is a particularly peaceful fish that remain content in its provided space. However, eels, by nature are predatory creatures, and so your fire eel might be dangerous to other smaller freshwater fish. The best tank mates for your eels are:

    1. Angelfish
    2. Medium-to-large Barbs
    3. Green terror
    4. Oscar fish

    Nutrition

    Fire eels, in their natural habitat munch on live food that is accessible to them. Be it small crabs, brine shrimp, insects, snails, or worms. In captivity, things are no different. These eels enjoy live food, including bloodworms, small fish, mussels, live shrimp, and tubifex.

    3. Peacock Eel

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus siamensis
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: 11.8 inches (29.97 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 35 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin:Southeast Asia
    • Temperature: 73.0 to 82.0ยฐ F
    • pH: 6.0-8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: difficult to breed
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with floating plants

    If you’re low on space, peacock eels are just for you!

    Many fish stores stock peacock eels because of their increasing demand. However, if you don’t happen to find one, fret not. A peacock eel goes by many names, including striped peacock eel, Siamese spiny eel, and spot-finned spiny eels.

    Origin

    The peacock eels originate from slow-flowing, stagnant bodies of water in Southeast Asia, mainly in India, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Sumatra, and Malaysia. However, they are commonly found in the Mekong, Chao Phraya, and Maeklong river basins. Their native environment allows them to enjoy plant and animal life in abundance. Hence, peacock eels are quite manageable, if their basic needs are met.

    Appearance

    Like other eel species, the peacock eels possess an elongated body with a dark brown back and light brown flanks. As compared to the entire body, the stomach of this spiny eel is much lighter. From the snout to the caudal fin, peacock eels showcase a fine yellow line that looks adds to their grace. The dorsal and caudal fins of the peacock eels feature five eyespots.

    Depending on the nature of their environment, they can grow around 15 centimeters (6 inches) in captivity. However, in their natural habitat, peacock eels can grow up t0 12 inches in length (30 cm long).

    Tank Setup

    These small eel-like fish should be housed in an aquarium of around 21 inches in length and a 20-gallon tank. But when they grow bigger, shift them to a bigger aquarium with a capacity of around 40 gallons or more.

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    Peacock eels are brackish freshwater aquarium eels that prefer some salt in their aquarium. Therefore, I recommend adding one teaspoon of aquarium salt per gallon of water to the fish tank.

    Behavior

    Peacock eels are like your introverted friends that take some time before getting all comfy. Therefore, at first, your eel-like fish might feel distant and aloof, but over time, when their environment is well-suited, they will become very friendly.

    The native environment of peacock eels is densely populated with plants. Therefore, an aquarium with plenty of plants, PVC pipes, and hidden or sheltered spots created by rocks and woods is recommended to keep this eel-like fish happy.

    Food

    Peacock eels are highly selective and moody when it comes to food. There are days when this small fish would take anything and days when nothing pleases it. However, these fish species are nocturnal and forage for food at night. Their favorite diet includes worms, larvae, live brine shrimp, blood worms, and mosquito larvae.

    Tankmates

    Peacock eels are calm creatures that mind their own business, provided the tank mates are not smaller fish that can be mistaken for food.

    The compatible tank mates for peacock eels are:

    1. Hatchetfish
    2. Rainbowfish
    3. Larger Rasboras
    4. Swordtail Fish

    4. Starry Night

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus frenatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 15 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 60 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, feeds on insects, small fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will typically accept frozen foods
    • Origin: Wild Central Africa
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.8  โ€“ 7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you’re looking for a small, hardy fish, the African starry night eel is your go-to pet for home aquariums.

    Origin

    These freshwater aquarium eels are found in Central Africa, ranging from the Congo River basin to various Rift lakes in the surrounding regions, including the flowing rivers of Tanzania.

    Behavior

    Unlike other freshwater aquarium eels, the starry night eel is hardy and extroverted in nature, making a graceful appearance in your tanks every now and then. However, like most spiny eel species, starry nights are slow eaters. Thus, always ensure the amount of food they get is sufficient to meet their needs. In the wild, they like to munch on small fish, plant matter, and aquatic invertebrates. However, in captivity, starry night eels readily accept meaty food such as frozen krill, nightcrawlers, and frozen bloodworms.

    Appearance

    The starry night eels are small to medium-sized fish that grow up to 15 inches in length and possess a variable color pattern. The most common color of starry night eels is brown with a variable blotched pattern.

    Tank Setup

    These freshwater aquarium eels thrive in water temperatures of around 73ยฐF to 80ยฐF, a pH of 7.8 to 8.4, and a hardness of 7 to 30ยฐH.

    The tank capacity should be at least 30 gallons or larger to accommodate a juvenile starry night eel happily. A larger tank around 55 to 75 gallons is optimum for these eels like fish. Furthermore, the tank should be well-planted with high-quality sand substrate, and lots of hiding places. For example driftwood, rock caves, and PVC pipes.

    The tank should be dimly lit and the water flow should be sluggish to motivate these bottom dwellers to venture out of their caves. Most importantly, a tight-fitting lid should be installed to avoid accidents.

    Tankmates

    Starry night eels make a very peaceful community, so they get along with other fish really well. However, the size of the fish should be taken into consideration. For starry night eels, larger fish make great tank mates.

    1. Rainbowfish
    2. Peaceful cichlids
    3. Large peaceful catfish

    5. Tire Track

    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus armatus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 30 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, Predator, feeds on insects, fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will accept frozen foods but can be finicky at first.
    • Origin: Wild Thailand
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.0  โ€“ 8.2
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Before getting your hands on the tire track eel, beware; these eel-like fish can get ginormous. (up to 30 inches in length)

    Origin

    The tire track eel are a popular species of eel that are found in river systems throughout most South Asian regions, such as Java and Sumatra in Indonesia. They originate from shallow, slow-moving waters, including rivers, South Asian swamp, and flooded forests.

    Appearance

    These freshwater aquarium eels are close cousins of Zig zag eels that are also from Asia. They are quite identical because of their distinct, irregular dark black markings. Therefore, the common name of tire track eel is derived from its distinctive color pattern on either side of the eel that resembles the tire.

    Behavior

    These eel-like fish are semi-aggressive but very personable and intelligent that recognize their owners well. They feed on live food, such as earthworms and frozen foods. Since they double in size in a short time period, it is recommended to keep them with large tank mates.

    6. Yellow Tail Spiny

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus pancalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 7.1 inches in length, 18 cm
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 125 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore, Predator, feeds on insects, fish, and crustaceans in the wild. Will accept frozen foods but can be finicky at first
    • Origin: Bangladesh, India, Nepal, and Pakistan
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐ F
    • pH: 7.0-8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    If you want to keep tankmates with your eels, your search ends at yellowtail spiny eel. Only the smallest creatures can fit in the mouths of yellowtail eel, such as ornamental freshwater shrimp. Therefore, they make great community tank fish.

    Originating from the heavily vegetated canals, ponds, and sluggish streams of rivers, these freshwater aquarium eels bring peace and tranquility to your tanks.

    They grow only six to seven inches in length and feed on live food, such as worms, frozen, and freeze-dried food. They are very shy at first, but once they get a hold of the environment, they get comfortable and personable with their owners and tankmates.

    The tank of these eel-like fish should have sand substrate so they can dig and bury themselves in the hiding places. Hence, adding secretive places such as rocky caves, PVC pipes, and driftwood is highly recommended.

    7. Half Banded Spiny

    • Scientific Name: Macrognathus circumcinctus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderately difficult
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 7.9 inches (19.99 cm)
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 35 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Asia, Mekong and Chao Phraya basins, southeastern Thailand, Malay Peninsula, Sumatra, and Indonesia
    • Temperature: 75.0 to 82.0ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.0  โ€“7.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Half-banded spiny eels (video source) are found in Asia, particularly in Mekong, Chao Phraya, Thailand, Malay, Sumatra, and Indonesia. Other common names of these species are Belted spiny eels or Large eels.

    Like most eels, their bodies are elongated with a pointed snout and the dorsal and anal fins extend back to the very small caudal fin. Half-banded spiny eel grows around 8 inches and can fit in a medium-sized aquarium with a lifespan of over 5-10 years. In some rare cases, half-banded eels live up to 15 years and longer, if taken care of.

    8. Senegalus

    • Scientific Name: Polypterus senegalus
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 20 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 90 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: African countries, including the major Nile River system; these countries include Egypt, Kenya, Nigeria, and Senegal
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  6.2 – 7.8
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The Polypterus eels (video source), commonly called Reed fish, Dinasaur eels, Bichir, or swamp eels originate from heavily vegetated water systems in Africa and India. They are very common in the native lands that they are mostly found in ditches.

    The Polypterus senegalus eels have jagged dorsal fins, protruding nostrils, and pointed teeth, it’s no wonder why they’re called the swamp dragon.

    The most interesting trait of Polypterus eels is their ability to stay out of water for some time because of their primitive lungs and swim bladder.

    Therefore, if you want your share of prehistoric dinosaur that is both hardy and interesting, the Polypterus eels would make great pets for you.

    9. Bichir

    Bichir Fish
    • Scientific Name: Polypteridae
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Calm
    • Adult Size: at least 9.8 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 50 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Freshwater basins in Africa and India
    • Temperature: 75.2-78.8 ยฐF
    • pH:  6.5 – 8.0
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    Bichirs are not true eels, instead, they are a family of freshwater ray-finned fishes that resemble eels so much. Bichirs are popular, fancy aquarium fishes inhabiting our planet for a very long time. They are usually found in the freshwater basins of Africa and India, where the water is muddy and silted bottom. Bichirs have a poor sense of sight but they can navigate freely in brackish waters due to their excellent sense of smell.

    The maximum length of Bichirs in the wild is around 39 inches. However, in captivity, they are much smaller fish, measuring around 9.8 inches.

    The body of Bichirs is covered with flexible scales that look like diamonds. The skin is very strong, protecting the fish from predators. Also, if the skin remains moist, Bichirs can stay out of water for quite some time.

    Bichirs are hardy fish with leg like appendages that doesn’t demand any attention and care. They can even live in dirty water. Therefore, the only difficulty while keeping them in home aquariums is their ability to prey. To cater to this, always place them with tank mates larger than Bichirs, and you’re good to go.

    10. African Ropefish (Erpetoichthys Calabaricus)

    • Scientific Name: Erpetoichthys calabaricus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Adult Size: at least 15 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 45 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Western Africa, Congo, Angola, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, Benin.
    • Temperature: 76-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.0  โ€“ 7.6
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    African Ropefish (video from Fluval Aquatics) is a stunning eel-like fish found in Western Africa and collected in the Democratic Republic of Congo, Angola, Nigeria, Cameroon, Equatorial Guinea, and Benin.

    It lives in shallow, densely vegetated waters. Therefore, it is recommended to set up an aquarium with aquatic plants and a soft substrate with pieces of driftwood to form hiding places for your African ropefish.

    African ropefish are not territorial. Therefore, a peaceful community fish that gets along with fish larger than their size, including Synodontis species, larger characins, and cichlids such as Severum, Angelfish, some Tilapia species, etc.

    11. Snowflake (Indian Mud Moray Eel)

    Indian Mud Moray Eel
    • Scientific Name: Echidna nebulosa
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Semi-Aggressive fish
    • Adult Size: at least 23.6 inches in length
    • Minimum Tank Size: at least 30 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • Origin: Coastal Indo-west-Pacific: Andaman Islands, Bangladesh, Hawaii, India, Indonesia, Malaysia, Philippines, Singapore, and Sri Lanka.
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐ F
    • pH:  7.5 – 8.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible with caution

    The freshwater snowflake eel is often confused with Echidna Nebulosa (Fully marine eel, colloquially known as Snowflake Moray).

    Snowflakes eels (image source from webwetmedia) are found across coastal regions of the Indo-West-Pacific, starting from India to the Philippines, and then to Indonesia.

    These nocturnal predators are found in muddy brackish estuaries and marine waters, only migrating into freshwater to spawn. Unfortunately, because this species is sometimes found in freshwater during the breeding season, it has been marketed erroneously in the trade for many years as the “Freshwater Moray Eel”, when actually it requires brackish or full marine conditions long-term, as it’s visits to freshwaters are only very temporary.

    This large bottom-dweller requires a spacious aquarium with a soft sand substrate in which it can forage about for food and wallow. There should be a multitude of hiding places amongst rocky caves, pvc tubes, and salt-tolerant plants. Filtration should be efficient with areas of moderate water movement, and some quieter resting areas out of the current. Frequent partial water changes are essential to keep nitrate to a minimum.

    Be sure to use a quality marine salt for water changes, and monitor salinity carefully with a hydrometer. Indian Mud Moray Eels are highly predatory, feeding on fish (even fairly large ones) in the wild. However, they may be kept in groups of their own kind in spacious aquaria, if all specimens are of roughly the same size, are added simultaneously, and are provided with at least one shelter each. We do not recommend housing with other fish species, as the eels will strike at them and most will soon be eaten.

    Although their eyesight is rather poor, Indian Mud Moray eels have a keen sense of smell and can detect movement vibrations very well, quickly lunging at any potential prey. This includes the hands, so much care should be taken when carrying out maintenance on the aquarium – they are capable of giving a nasty bite! As with other moray eels, these fish have needle-like teeth and possess a second set of teeth in the throat, known as the pharyngeal jaws which assist in capturing and swallowing prey.

    Although this species is not highly venomous, it does have a mildly toxic mucus coating to the mouth which can cause skin irritation if bitten. Ensure that the tank has tight fitting covers as these fish are accomplished escape artists, which can lead to their deaths. Kept under ideal conditions, the Indian Mud Moray Eel has been known to live in excess of 30 years; they will not survive for long in pure freshwater.

    FAQs

    What kind are in freshwater?

    Freshwater aquarium eels are quite popular among enthusiastic aquarists. Eels in general are saltwater species. However, a few of them, from the family Anguillidae, including European eel migrate from freshwater and spawn in the marine waters of the Sargasso Sea. The five most popular types of freshwater aquarium eels are:

    1. Moray eels
    2. Fire eels
    3. Zig zag eel
    4. Tire track eel
    5. Snowflake Eel

    Can you have a freshwater type as a pet?

    Yes, you can have freshwater eel as a pet as long as their basic requirements, such as tank size, water parameters, and nutritional needs are met.

    Can freshwater types hurt you?

    Eels are not aggressive towards humans. However, they have sharp-pointed teeth that infamously hurt if they bite you.

    How big does a freshwater eel get?

    It depends from species to species. In captivity, the average size of an adult freshwater eel is around 8 inches to 3 feet and over.

    Are there freshwater types for aquariums?

    Freshwater aquarium eels can be kept in aquariums. However, the bare minimum tank size for any eel should be at least 35 gallons.

    Are they aggressive?

    Most freshwater aquarium eels are friendly towards tankmates of larger sizes. However, few of them such as moray eels, and fire eels are aggressive and pose a serious threat to their tankmates.

    What size tank do they need?

    Most freshwater aquarium eels need at least a 35-gallon tank of water to be comfortable. Other larger species may need an aquarium over 100 gallons to house long-term.

    How much does a freshwater eel cost?

    The cost of freshwater eel varies from species to species. However, it can cost you anywhere around $15 – $500 or more, depending on the size, species, and other characteristics.

    Final Thoughts

    Freshwater aquarium eels are beautiful creatures to adorn your home aquariums. Coming from freshwater rivers of South Asian regions, they are mostly peaceful and get along pretty well with tankmates of their own sizes. However, due to their finicky nature, freshwater aquarium eels might not be a great fit for novice fish keepers.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • How to Lower Ammonia in a Fish Tank: 6 Methods That Work

    How to Lower Ammonia in a Fish Tank: 6 Methods That Work

    Ammonia spikes have ended more fishkeeping journeys than almost anything else, and I’ve fielded countless questions about it over the years. Early in my own hobby days I lost fish to ammonia before I understood the nitrogen cycle โ€” it’s a hard lesson. The good news is that once you know what drives ammonia up and how to bring it down fast, it becomes a manageable problem rather than a mystery.

    Ammonia is the number one killer in home aquariums โ€” particularly in new tanks that haven’t finished cycling. I’ve seen it wipe out entire stocks of fish in tanks that looked perfectly fine to the eye. The tricky thing about ammonia is that you can’t see it or smell it at aquarium concentrations, so regular testing is the only way to catch it before damage is done. When I get ammonia readings in a tank, my first move is always Seachem Prime to detoxify it temporarily, followed by a water change and a hard look at what’s driving it โ€” overfeeding, overstocking, an uncycled tank, or a dead animal decomposing somewhere. This guide covers 6 practical ways to bring ammonia down and keep it there.

    The Nitrogen Cycle

    The first rule to having a fish tank is allowing it to cycle. But what does it mean for a fish tank to cycle and why does it matter so much?

    Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists skip fundamental steps in understanding the aquarium nitrogen cycle; they’re told to come back to their local pet store for water testing in a couple of weeks when they’ll be given the thumbs up to add their first fish to the aquarium even if the fish tank isn’t fully cycled. Too many times, this results in suffering and dead fish as well as disappointed hobbyists.

    What Is The Nitrogen Cycle?

    There is a great video that really explains the nitrogen cycle in a fun and entertaining way by Girl Talks Fish below that Iโ€™ll embed for you. Iโ€™ll go more into my boring details below

    The nitrogen cycle is very easy to understand but requires some patience.

    In simple terms, the nitrogen cycle prepares your aquarium for dealing with fish waste and other organics in the water through processes completed by beneficial bacteria. These beneficial bacteria need to grow and populate the aquarium over the course of several weeks until there are enough to convert toxic ammonia to nitrite to less toxic nitrate.

    In more biological and chemical terms, this looks a little more complex. Ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4) are converted to (NO2) by nitrifying bacteria. Different nitrifying bacteria then convert this nitrite into nitrate (NO3).

    In the aquarium setting, the nitrogen cycle will always start with ammonia. If more ammonia enters the system than your population of beneficial bacteria can handle, then your aquarium will go through a cycle or a mini-cycle.

    Why Is It Dangerous?

    Ammonia poisoning is when high levels of ammonia start to burn the internal and external organs of fish and invertebrates. This can result in lethargy, difficulty breathing, loss of appetite, and inflammation.

    Before we dive into how ammonia enters the fish tank, we need to understand why we need to avoid excess levels at all costs.

    It’s important to keep in mind that ammonia is present in the aquarium at all times due to leftover food and fish waste being processed. However, levels can quickly become dangerous whenever they’re not close to 0 ppm.

    If large amounts of ammonia are present in the aquarium, ammonia poisoning can set in almost immediately. If low amounts of ammonia are present in the fish tank over a longer period of time, then it’s still possible for your fish to experience chronic ammonia poisoning.

    The problem is that high amounts of ammonia will translate into high amounts of nitrite, another deadly compound at high levels. At this point, fish may experience nitrite poisoning.

    Nitrite is very similar to oxygen in its chemical structure. Therefore, it is able to enter the bloodstream and connect to hemoglobin where oxygen would otherwise. This quite literally makes the fish suffocate from the inside out, making for a very painful death.

    Similarly, nitrite poisoning will either be immediate or witnessed over the course of a few days depending on water quality. Symptoms are also very similar, which means it’s necessary to test water parameters for a sure diagnosis.

    Ammonia In The Aquarium

    For an established fish tank, ammonia is a bad thing to have. It can quickly cause ammonia poisoning, killing fish and invertebrates by burning internal and external organs. When cycling a fish tank, ammonia becomes the food needed for bacteria to grow and populate. We have a video below form our YouTube channel for reference. We go over more details in the blog. Be sure to subscribe if you like our videos!

    There are many different ways to purposely or mistakingly introduce ammonia into the aquarium:

    1. New fish tank
    2. New livestock additions
    3. Dead organic matter
    4. Overfeeding
    5. Overstocking

    1. New Aquarium

    When starting up an aquarium, you may experience a phenomenon known as new tank syndrome. This is the build-up of harmful nutrients and compounds in the aquarium that can kill fish and deter bacterial growth in extreme cases. The reason for the new tank syndrome is that the aquarium hasn’t had time to establish a healthy population of beneficial bacteria.

    As mentioned before, beneficial bacteria make the conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate possible. If this cycle isn’t allowed to be fully completed, then bacteria will struggle to detoxify these compounds, making for unsafe water conditions.

    However, even if your aquarium is fully cycled, there’s still a chance that it experiences new tank syndrome. This could be due to a weak cycle or overstocking the aquarium too quickly. Both of these circumstances would lead to ammonia entering the aquarium too quickly, overloading the present bacteria populations.

    As a result, a mini-cyle is likely to occur where there are abnormal levels of ammonia and nitrite. This can be very dangerous as it can lead to ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning.

    2. New Livestock Additions

    Saltwater Fish Tank

    Any time a new fish or invertebrate is introduced into the aquarium, ammonia levels will rise. Depending on the stability of the system, this increase in ammonia shouldn’t be seen in tests as beneficial bacteria will quickly adapt to the new influx.

    The problem happens when beginner hobbyists are eager to stock their new fish tank to the brim as soon as the nitrogen cycle is completed.

    New livestock additions should be spaced out over the course of weeks or months to give beneficial bacteria populations enough time to adapt to the increased ammonia levels. Adding too much at once is a sure way to cause a mini-cycle, greatly increasing the chances of losing all of your new livestock!

    3. Dead Organic Matter

    Things die in the aquarium all the time: fish, snails, crabs, and aquarium plants. It’s bound to happen, but it might take some time to notice or you might not be able to reach what’s left before it starts to decompose.

    As decaying organic matter starts to decompose, ammonia is created. While most fish tanks are able to handle these small amounts of ammonia entering the system, it’s always recommended to remove what you can to prevent an ammonia spike from happening.

    However, sometimes you just don’t notice that one of your fish or invertebrates is missing and the breakdown process has already started. Or, the carcass may be so far in the back of the fish tank that you just can’t reach it no matter how hard you try.

    Leaving the dead matter in the fish tank will raise ammonia levels, though not terribly if the system is stable. This is also why a cleanup crew, like saltwater hermit crabs or shrimp, are especially helpful to take care of dead fish and invertebrates before they start to decompose.

    4. Overfeeding

    Freezed Dried Food

    Overfeeding is one of the most common reasons for an ammonia spike in a new fish tank. Fish do not need as much food as we think they do and they often end up overfed.

    Fish food is naturally high in unwanted organics, like phosphate, which can quickly cause algae in the aquarium. However, as uneaten fish food is left to rot at the bottom of the tank, it will also start to release ammonia just like other decaying organic matter. Not to mention that overfeeding will result in much more fish waste entering the water as well, also increasing ammonia levels.

    In general, fish should only be fed as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes. All uneaten fish food should be removed after.

    5. Overstocking

    New livestock additions can overwhelm a biological filter; by the biological filter, we mean the beneficial bacteria that live in the filtration system and other surface areas of the fish tank that make the nitrogen cycle possible. This is why overstocking a tank can be so dangerous.

    Beneficial bacteria can only handle a certain amount of ammonia and nitrite. If levels exceed this rate, then both ammonia and nitrite levels will accumulate. This can easily become the situation if too many fish are put into the aquarium.

    This is also the reason why goldfish need such a large aquarium. These fish are incredibly messy; they are messy eaters and leave a lot of uneaten food, which then results in a lot of fish waste. Because of this, a large filtration system is needed to allow for the most surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

    6 Ways To Lower It In Aquariums

    High ammonia levels in the fish tank should be considered an emergency. The longer your fish and invertebrates are exposed to ammonia, the better the chances of them dying. You need to act fast without making too many changes at once.

    Of course, the best way to remove ammonia from the aquarium is by preventing it in the first place.

    1. Make sure your fish tank is completely cycled. Test water parameters frequently and only add fish when there are no signs of ammonia or nitrite.
    2. Add fish slowly. Do not overload the system and allow beneficial bacteria populations to grow over time as more and more fish are added.
    3. Do not overstock. Understand the ratio of ammonia being produced to aquarium water volume. Beneficial bacteria can only concert so much ammonia at one given time.
    4. Do not overfeed. Though we love to give our fish and invertebrates the best life possible, too much fish waste and uneaten food can lead to a deadly ammonia spike. Remove excess food.
    5. Perform regular fish tank maintenance.

    Otherwise, there are ways to remove ammonia from the fish tank through water changes, increased biological filtration, bacteria supplements, and chemical media.

    1. Water Changes

    The best way to quickly get rid of ammonia from a fish tank is by doing a succession of water changes over the course of a few days. Though this won’t solve the underlying problem causing ammonia to be high, water changes will help keep ammonia levels lower and safer for fish.

    If you find ammonia in your fish tank, don’t panic. Instead, set up a plan over the next few days to do water changes. You don’t want to change out all the water at once as this can create instability in the fish tank and changing parameters that stress out your fish even more.

    Instead, start with a 50% water change. If using tap water, make sure that there is no ammonia in the water as this will only increase the ammonia level. For extra precaution, use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and other harmful compounds, like SeaChem Prime.

    Continue to do 25-50% water changes over the next few days until the ammonia level reaches 0 ppm. At that point, you will need to identify the cause of the ammonia spike, be it a mini-cyle, a dead fish, or too much uneaten food, and treat accordingly.

    2. Increased Biological Filtration

    If it isn’t an emergency, then the best way to remove ammonia from a fish tank naturally is to allow beneficial bacteria to do their thing. This is known as biological filtration, which can be increased by increasing the surface area in the aquarium; this is different from chemical or mechanical filtration.

    Specific biological filtration media has also been created to facilitate bacterial growth and lower ammonia levels. This works by creating porous media, similar to live rock, that creates more surface area.

    The majority of beneficial bacteria live in the filtration systems of our fish tanks. However, they also live in the nooks and crannies of live rock and other aquarium decorations.

    Some of these products include:

    • SeaChem Matrix. This product grows aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to control ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. One liter provides >~700 m2 surface area and can be used in freshwater and saltwater setups.
    • Biohome Ultimate. Meant for saltwater and freshwater hang on the back, canister, and sump filtration systems, Biohome Ultimate media influences both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria growth with added trace elements, like iron and manganese.
    • MarinePure. MarinePure is meant specifically for direct use in saltwater fish tanks to reduce ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. It can be used under the substrate or in areas of high flow, including the filtration system.
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    Biological filtration media is a great and minimally invasive addition for buffering surface area in a hang on the back, canister, or sump filtration system. Still, this media will take some time to populate by bacteria and will not immediately lower ammonia levels.

    3. Add Beneficial Rock (AKA Live or Dry Rock)

    Porous rock is a great way to add biological capacity to your aquarium. I’ll cover both the saltwater and freshwater side below.

    Adding Live/Dry Rock To The Saltwater Aquarium

    Live rock is the foundation for any saltwater fish tank setup. Not only does it provide food and shelter for fish and invertebrates, but it houses a plethora of bacterial life that is essential for facilitating the nitrogen cycle.

    One way to jumpstart a nitrogen cycle in a saltwater fish tank is to add live rock. There are two reasons for this.

    One, live rock will already have beneficial bacteria present on it when added to your tank. This means that you’ll start with a population that can seed the rest of the fish tank. The other reason is that there is bound to be some die-off when transferring the live rock between fish tanks. This die-off will contribute to ammonia levels, starting and supporting a nitrogen cycle.

    But how does live rock help with lowering ammonia levels?

    In the same way, adding live rock to an established aquarium can introduce more beneficial bacteria that will start to process ammonia and nitrite. There may still be some die-off, but the already established bacteria should be able to handle the sudden influx; if concerned about die-off, quarantine the rocks in a separate system with the same parameters.

    As a result, the beneficial bacteria population is immediately expanded, increasing conversion rates and lowering ammonia levels.

    Live rock can be expensive though, and there’s always the possibility of unintentionally adding hitchhikers at the same time. Luckily, dry rock is widely available and very easy to add to the saltwater fish tank. For quality dry rock, check out Real Reef Rock. Be careful of going 100% dry rock as this can result in an outbreak of dinos in your tank.

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    The idea behind adding dry rock instead of live rock is to increase surface area. Though this dry rock won’t come with established bacteria, it gives more space for the already-existing bacteria to populate. This will take more time to lower ammonia levels than would live rock but can be a great way to increase biological filtration on a budget.

    Adding Porous Dry Rock To The Freshwater Aquarium

    In the same way, dry rock, like lava rock, can be added to the freshwater fish tank to get rid of ammonia. However, it’s not common to see live lava rock for sale at your freshwater aquarium store; for this, you may need to reach out to fellow hobbyists or a specialty fish store.

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    There is some discussion about the efficacy of lava rock being good for lowering ammonia levels in the aquarium. It’s a porous rock, but some hobbyists have seen little to no effect and worry about what the rock might be made from. Lava rock can also be sharp, which can easily injure fish and invertebrates.

    Adding live or dry lava rock will either help seed a fish tank with more beneficial bacteria or provide more space for bacteria to grow, ultimately lowering ammonia levels. How effective and safe this rock is to use is up for question, though.

    If you want a completely safe and effective way for controlling ammonia levels in your freshwater fish tank, then a more effective method is to add live plants.

    Freshwater Aquaraium Plants

    Planted Aquarium EI

    Live aquarium plants are biological filters in themselves. Plants use many nutrients and compounds in their physiological processes, including harmful ammonia and nitrite. They will also help take up some nitrate, which can reduce the need for frequent water changes.

    Freshwater aquarium plants require macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen may be taken up in the form of ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. Because of this, as well as for the exchange of aesthetic and fish tank oxygenation, many hobbyists use plants to improve water quality and to lower the ammonia level.

    So much so that more experienced hobbyists even use freshwater aquatic plants to undergo a fish-safe nitrogen cycle, called a ghost cycle. A ghost cycle is when the fish tank undergoes the nitrogen cycle with little to no observation of changing parameters. This can make ammonia not show up on an ammonia test kit even if it is present in the aquarium.

    A ghost cycle can be pretty difficult to accomplish; there is a constant balance between adding more ammonia to sustain the plants while understanding how many plants are needed to reduce ammonia levels.

    4. Upgrading Your Filtration System

    Whether you’re changing from one fish tank to another or switching from a hang on the back filter to a full sump system, upgrading your filtration system can help your tank handle ammonia levels. Remember, the increased surface area will allow more space for bacteria, thus increasing ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion.

    Not only does a larger filtration system give more space for bacteria, but it also allows for additional equipment that can further help balance water quality. More refined equipment, such as refugiums and protein skimmers, may be added to help uptake nutrients. Extra space can also be used for more biological filtration to increase surface area even more. For freshwater tanks, you can look into a high quality canister filter.

    When upgrading a fish tank, be sure to hang on to any filtration media used, especially biological filtration. Like live rock, aquarium filter media holds a plethora of bacteria that can be used to almost immediately cycle a new aquarium. There is still a chance that a mini-cycle occurs, but with slow stocking and water quality monitoring, it is rare to see high ammonia levels, if at all.

    5. Bacteria Supplements

    Bacteria supplements are very useful for hobbyists struggling with water parameters or that need to quickly cycle an aquarium. While they’re great at what they do, they should not be mistaken for the answer in a bottle to all your tropical fish tank’s problems.

    Bacteria supplements are one way of introducing the necessary bacteria into the aquarium to convert ammonia to nitrate. They have been used to facilitate the nitrogen cycle in new tanks and can help stabilize systems with too much ammonia; bacteria supplements should never be seen as an ammonia remover.

    Though bacteria supplements might seem like the answer to your problem, they don’t treat the underlying cause of a high ammonia level. This is why experienced hobbyists strongly recommend beginners go through the full stages of the aquarium cycle to understand how ammonia moves through the aquarium.

    If struggling with elevated ammonia levels, some recommended bacteria supplements are:

    • FritzZyme TurboStart. This freshwater bacteria supplement is designed to immediately reduce ammonia and nitrite levels to prevent fish death. It can be used to jumpstart an aquarium cycle or to save a fish tank suffering an ammonia spike. As the bacteria in this supplement are living, their shelf life is limited to four months.
    • Instant Ocean Bio-Spira. A saltwater bacteria supplement, Bio-Spira contains nitrococcus, nitrosomonas, nitrosospira, and nitrospira bacteria to reduce ammonia and nitrite levels. Bio-Spira is shelf-stable but should be used almost immediately.
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    6. Chemical Media

    Lastly, chemical media may be used to help reduce ammonia levels in saltwater or freshwater aquarium. However, this should be the last option for beginner hobbyists as, again, chemical media will not solve the reason for the high ammonia level.

    Chemical media can be a simple and inexpensive method for quickly removing ammonia from a fish tank though in case of an emergency. Simply place the media in an area of high water flow and replace it as directed.

    Here are some of the best chemical media products available to quickly reduce ammonia levels:

    • Zeolite. Zeolite, specifically from Marineland, removes ammonia as well as other toxins in the aquarium water, including chloramine. It is best used in freshwater aquariums and will last about a month.
    • SeaChem Purigen. Purigen polishes water of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for the freshwater and saltwater fish tank. It changes color when depleted, but can easily be recharged.
    • Fluval Ammonia Remover. This product specifically targets and reduces ammonia through natural ion exchange. Fluval Ammonia Remover is designed to work best in freshwater aquariums.
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    Final Thoughts

    Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists experience an ammonia spike in their aquariums due to impatience and poor understanding of the nitrogen cycle. The growth of beneficial bacteria and conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate can take a long time and we get the hurry!

    However, it’s better to end up with a stinky, empty fish tank than to come home to a bunch of dead fish. Allow your aquarium to fully cycle but know how to lower your ammonia level in case of an emergency.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian Almond Leaves: 5 Reasons to Use Them (Especially for Bettas and Shrimp)

    Indian almond leaves are something I started using years ago for my betta tanks and never stopped. The tannins they release soften and acidify the water in a completely natural way, and I’ve noticed bettas kept with them tend to be more active and show better color. I also use them in shrimp tanks โ€” the leaves themselves become a food source as they break down, which is a bonus I didn’t expect at first.

    Indian almond leaves are one of those simple additions that make a real difference in the right setup. I use them in betta tanks โ€” they release tannins that soften the water and lower pH, mimicking the blackwater environments bettas come from, and the antifungal properties are genuinely useful for fin health. Betta breeders swear by them, and for good reason. They work well in shrimp tanks too; shrimp graze on the leaves as they decompose and seem to thrive in the tannin-rich water. The downside is purely aesthetic: the water turns tea-colored, which some people love and others don’t. Here are 5 solid reasons to consider adding them.

    What Are Indian Almond Leaves?

    Indian Almond Leaves Outside

    Indian almond leaves are leaves from the Terminalia catappa tree, also known as the Indian almond tree, which is native to parts of Asia, Africa, and Australia. These Indian almond leaves, also known as catappa leaves, are collected, dried, and sold as they are very beneficial to a variety of freshwater life and are essential for replicating blackwater ecosystems in the home aquarium.

    Blackwater ecosystems are defined by their tea-colored, murky waters. Underneath these dark surfaces, the chemical and medicinal properties of the water help sustain a plethora of tropical fish and invertebrates, including wild relatives of the famous betta fish (Betta splendens).

    This natural environment gets its color from decaying organics that leak tannins and tannic acid. In the aquarium, tannins can be released in the same way, especially by Indian almond leaves.

    What Do Indian Almond Leaves Do In The Aquarium?

    Not only do Indian almond leaves help replicate the natural ecosystems of many tropical fish, but there is a large list of benefits that come with using them in the aquarium.

    Some of these benefits include:

    • Antifungal and antibacterial properties
    • Lower pH levels and soften water
    • Comfort shy and stressed fish
    • Quarantine system

    Some of the only drawbacks to using Indian almond leaves are the blackwater appearance they give in the aquarium and their acidic properties. However, both can be controlled through water changes.

    1. Antifungal And Antibacterial Properties

    Tannins are naturally found in many trees and plants as a form of protection. They are mainly stored in the bark and new leaves where they act to defend the plant from infectious bacteria and fungi that try to enter.

    In the fish tank setting, tannins act in the same way by decreasing the number of pathogens in the water column while bolstering the immune system of the fish. So much so that Indian almond leaves have been seen as a great natural addition to aquariums struggling with fin rot. Fin rot can be caused by bacteria or fungus and Indian almond leaves have been a great natural remedy.

    While Indian almond leaves won’t entirely cure fin rot without any extra maintenance, they definitely increase the chances of a full recovery.

    2. Lower pH Levels And Soften Water

    Many tropical fish have adapted to the standard parameters of aquarium water no matter where they once originated from: 7.0 pH and 4-8 dKH. While most fish can live in these pristine conditions indefinitely, wild-caught and sensitive species will thrive in soft and acidic conditions that replicate their natural origins.

    As the Indian almond leaves break down in the aquarium, they will start to release tannins and tannic acid that lower pH and general hardness. This is a gradual breakdown, and there’s little to no fear that water parameters will change too quickly for your fish to handle.

    Still, it is best to test parameters regularly to make sure that your fish don’t get stressed out.

    3. How Much Do They Lower pH?

    The more Indian almond leaves that you add to your aquarium, the more your pH will drop due to the tannic acid being released. However, how much your pH will drop depends on some external factors that will be unique to every individual tank.

    One of these factors is the carbonate hardness (KH) of the water being used. KH is the parameter that dictates how much or how little pH can be buffered at any given time. An improper KH will make changing pH levels difficult and volatile. Though this won’t make a big difference when using just a leaf or two, it’s definitely something to track with long-term use.

    Other factors include the rate of decomposition, water change schedule, and use of activated carbon.

    In general, it can be expected for pH levels to drop 1-2 ppm with the use of Indian almond leaves. This will usually result in pH levels settling between 5.0-7.0, which is perfect for blackwater fish species.

    It is very important to keep track of pH levels when using Indian almond leaves. pH is measured on a logarithmic scale, which means that small changes in value can have much greater effects than anticipated.

    4. Comfort Shy And Stressed Fish

    A bed of Indian almond leaf litter can be the home of and food for many tank inhabitants. Small fish will love to take shelter in and feed on a leaf litter substrate, potentially spawning and raising nearly hatched fry. Shrimp especially love being able to forage on the undersides of the leaves and will feel comfortable reproducing in the coverage they provide.

    In addition, many fish and invertebrates will appreciate dimmed lighting conditions, which can be achieved through the dark brown color of the water. If you’re struggling with particularly shyer fish or invertebrates, try adding some Indian almond leaves!

    5. Quarantine System

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves won’t be the only thing that cures your fish of fin rot or another fungal or bacterial infection, but they can definitely help speed up recovery and prepare fish for transfer to a new aquarium.

    Indian almond leaves can safely be added to the quarantine or hospital fish tank system to bolster immunity, prevent some low grade infections, and improve water quality. Some fish keepers have abandoned all other forms of conventional aquarium medicines for the natural alternative of Indian almond leaves or another source of tannins.

    Along with Indian almond leaves, water changes will still need to be kept up with to continue to maintain water parameters. Activated carbon may also need to be run for better control of parameters.

    However, Indian almond leaves can be a simple yet effective addition to the quarantine system for extra protection against bacterial and fungal infections.

    Can You Use Too Many?

    Indian almond leaves can be a great addition to most fish tanks for their medicinal properties and the comfort they bring to fish.

    Some hobbyists may choose to only use a few leaves here and there for aesthetic purposes while others would rather create a full leaf litter substrate that is a few inches deep. There are many ways to use Indian almond leaves, but it’s very difficult to actually use too many.

    The main side effect of using too many Indian almond leaves is having very dark brown water. At some point, it will become difficult to view fish and submersed plants might even have difficulty getting the light that they need to photosynthesize.

    Overly dark water can easily be fixed through a series of partial water changes or by adding activated carbon to the aquarium. Gradually the dark water will lighten in color and pH levels and water hardness will also return to where they originally were.

    This is where things can become slightly problematic, though. Indian almond leaves lower pH and the hardness of the water. The more Indian almond leaves that are used, the more that those levels will decrease in the fish tank.

    It is very difficult to overdose Indian almond leaves in that aspect, and usually, you will lose sight of your fish before the water becomes too acidic for them to handle. Also, remember that most of the fish found in these black waters have been known to survive in acidic water conditions down to 3.0 ppm or less.

    While these levels can be deadly if changed too fast, Indian almond leaves make this change in water quality slow and steady for your fish to safely adapt.

    How To Use

    Indian almond leaves are inexpensive and can be found at your local pet or fish store. It is recommended to use one medium-sized leaf for every 10 gallons of water. Two may be used for the same amount of water for a stronger effect.

    Indian almond leaves take only a few days to sink to the bottom of the tank. After that, they will start to noticeably decompose over the course of a month or two. There is no need to remove the Indian almond leaves at any point and they can be left to decompose until there’s nothing left. Once your Indian almond leaves are nearly all gone, add a few new ones and start the process over.

    Want all the benefits of Indian almond leaves but don’t necessarily want the mess? Here is how to make Indian almond leaf extract.

    How To Make Extract

    Indian almond leaf extract is exactly what it sounds like: a concentrated dose of tannins and tannic acid excreted from Indian almond leaves. Instead of adding Indian almond leaves directly to the aquarium, an extract is a great way to get all the benefits and natural look without any of the mess.

    Here are the steps to making your own extract from Indian almond leaves (you can also see the video above by AquatikGuru):

    1. Prepare dried botanicals, including Indian almond leaves, walnut leaves, and common beech leaves as well as birch and alder cones; Indian almond leaves are the most common type of leaf to use in the aquarium setting as it has been the most researched. Make sure to purchase other dried botanicals from a trusted pet store.
    2. Place a handful of these botanicals into a heat-safe container that can be sealed.
    3. Pour boiling or hot water over the Indian almond leaves and seal the container for at least 24 hours. The water will turn dark brown.
    4. At this point, the leaves may be strained out of the dark water. The Indian almond leaves may be placed directly into the aquarium for use or boiled again for another batch of Indian almond leaf extract; the only downside to reusing leaves is that they will start to decompose very quickly, which can make for a cloudy dose.
    5. The recommended Indian almond leaf extract dosage is one ounce for every one gallon of water. More than this may be added at any given time as long as pH levels are carefully tracked.

    If you don’t feel like making your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then there are many products available for sale in-store and online. Some options include premade tannin concentrates or powders. However, there are a few problems with these.

    The main problem with using Indian almond leaf powder is that you can’t be sure of the ingredients. Unfortunately, it is possible that the powders are treated with dyes to enhance their appearance or that they include other unknown ingredients. While these dyes and ingredients aren’t likely to hurt fish if they’re from a reputable seller, dyed powder won’t give the full benefits that Indian almond leaves could otherwise.

    If you don’t want to make your own extract from Indian almond leaves, then a premade liquid concentrate would be the best option for receiving the full benefits at a reasonable cost. Many fish keepers find that liquid Indian almond leaf products don’t contain a lot of product though and can be expensive for the amount you’re getting; many extracts come in small bottles only meant to treat a small fish tank one time.

    To find the best liquid Indian almond leaf extract, make sure that you’re getting a product that treats hundreds or thousands of gallons of water while remaining under a $25 budget. Otherwise, it is much more worth it to make your extract from separately purchased Indian almond leaves.

    Are They Good For All Fish?

    No, Indian almond leaves are not good for all fish. While many of the beloved fish, like tetras and angelfish, available in pet stores come from tropical blackwater ecosystems throughout the world, many other fish come from areas with basic, hard water instead. This includes:

    Most of the fish on this list prefer neutral or heightened pH as opposed to acidic conditions. Though these fish might adapt to lower pH levels over time, subjecting them to unideal conditions for extended periods of time can potentially shorten their lifespan.

    Instead, one of the best fish to use Indian almond leaves with is the betta fish, particularly wild bettas. Otherwise, Indian almond leaves are a very popular addition to freshwater shrimp tanks as dwarf shrimp love to forage in and around the leaf litter.

    Wild Bettas

    Most fish keepers have had a betta fish tank at one point or another in their aquarium careers. However, not many have taken the time to understand their true natural habitat preferences and how important blackwater conditions are to their success.

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    Wild betta fish species originate from southeast Asia, through parts of Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, and Laos. There, they live in extremely shallow ponds and overflows that are littered with palm fronds and other organic matter from the thick forest canopy above.

    These areas are very low in visibility and oxygen, leaving the betta fish to develop a labyrinth organ that allows them to rise to the surface of the acidic water for atmospheric air. These betta fish species are also less colorful in appearance compared to their more desirable tank-raised counterparts and have more basic reds, blues, and blacks.

    While not all wild betta fish species have been brought into the aquarium hobby, some popular species include Betta imbellis, Betta macrostoma, Betta picta, and Betta pugnax.

    Given what is known about these wild fish, Indian almond leaves greatly help the transition between their natural habitat and the aquarium setting. Wild betta fish thrive in soft and acidic conditions. They are also very shy fish and will do well under the dark brown color of the water and the addition of some floating plants.

    How To Remove Them From Your Aquarium

    Adding Indian almond leaves to your aquarium is simple enough and so is removing them. If it turns out that you can’t stand the appearance of blackwater that comes with Indian almond leaves, then you’re not stuck with it forever! However, it’s going to take some time and a little extra maintenance to get your aquarium back to where it was.

    Though there isn’t much that can go wrong in the removal of Indian almond leaves from your aquarium, you want to take your time. pH and general hardness can cause problems when changed too quickly and it is better to be safe than sorry.

    First, you want to remove the Indian almond leaves from your aquarium to stop any more tannins from entering the aquarium. If the Indian almond leaves are already in small pieces, then use an aquarium siphon. Do this by sections so that you don’t stir up too much leaf litter at once, causing ammonia to enter the water column and a potential mini-cycle to start.

    At the same time, perform a 25% water change and add activated carbon to the aquarium. The water change will help introduce untinted water and the new desired water parameters while the activated carbon will strip the remaining tannins from the water.

    Within a few weeks, your tank should be back to being crystal clear with higher pH and hardness levels.

    Other Alternatives

    As mentioned before, Indian almond leaves are the most popular aquarium botanical as effects have been studied for years. Hobbyists have tried many other options though, including using leaves and cones that they might find on their own properties.

    Some popular alternatives include:

    • Peat moss
    • Driftwood
    • Walnut leaves
    • Common beech leaves
    • Birch and alder cones
    • Oak leaves

    Driftwood is not commonly seen as a way to introduce tannins, but tannins are the reason your aquarium turns brown after adding new pieces of driftwood! Driftwood is a great alternative to botanicals altogether, especially if going for a minimal aesthetic with rocks and wood features.

    If planning to collect your own botanicals, like oak leaves, survey the area for possible sources of contamination. This mainly results from runoff and pesticides but can also be from animal defecation. If there are any signs of contamination at all, do not add them to your aquarium.

    Also, make sure that the leaves are completely dried as live ones can release unwanted toxins into the aquarium.

    Where to Buy

    Indian almond leaves can be purchased at specialty fish stores or online. If you are looking to purchase them online, check out the links below. Both sellers offer high-quality leaves at great prices.

    Final Thoughts

    Indian almond leaves have antibacterial and antifungal properties which can help prevent and cure low-grade infections, like fin rot, while lowering pH and water hardness. They can help shy fish feel safer and become the home to an assortment of fry and juvenile fish and invertebrates.

    The only problem with using Indian almond leaves is that they can create an undesired dark tint to the aquarium water, which not all hobbyists will find appealing. These effects will need to be reversed through a series of partial water changes and the use of activated carbon.

    In most cases though, the benefits outweigh the cons, especially if keeping a blackwater fish species!

  • How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    How Long Do Axolotls Live? 5 Key Factors That Determine Their Lifespan

    Axolotls are one of those animals that get a lot of attention for their looks but deserve equal attention for their care requirements. I’ve seen many people impulse-buy them without realizing how sensitive they are to warm water and poor water quality. Get those two things right, and an axolotl can live 10 years or more โ€” get them wrong, and you’ll be troubleshooting health problems within months.

    Axolotls have become one of the most popular aquarium pets in recent years, and it’s easy to see why โ€” they’re bizarre-looking, personable, and surprisingly long-lived when kept correctly. In captivity, axolotls regularly reach 10 to 15 years, and some make it to 20. In the wild, they’re nearly extinct (Lake Xochimilco in Mexico is essentially their last native habitat), so what we keep in tanks are captive-bred animals that actually tend to be healthier than their wild counterparts. The biggest thing I see kill axolotls early is temperature โ€” they need cold water, 60 to 68ยฐF, and most people don’t realize that. Get that right along with water quality, and you’re looking at a very long-lived companion. This article breaks down the 5 key factors that determine lifespan.

    Unfortunately, axolotls are almost extinct in their native habitat. And so, what we get here is the laboratory-bred and tank bred axolotls that live much longer than the native ones.

    But before diving straight into the topic, let’s discuss why axolotls are endangered?

    Why Are Axolotls Endangered?

    Axolotls are critically endangered species, which are constantly declining in the wild and might go completely extinct in the near future.

    There are a number of factors that resulted in their sharp decline. In 1998, research stated that there were 6,000 axolotls per square kilometer in the lake Xochimilco. However, today, the axolotl population dropped to 35.

    So, where did we go wrong? The video above goes in detail (video from Frankie’s Aquatics). I’ll also add my points below. Let’s find out.

    Water Contamination

    The advancements and developments anywhere bring their own consequences. Thus, the recent developments in the Xochimilco regions resulted in water pollution, making these areas havoc for aquatic animals, especially axolotls.

    Overfishing

    It’s an old story of supply and demand; when the Mexican walking fish became a supreme delicacy in Mexico, the demand increased, leading to overfishing. And so, the numbers of axolotls in the wild kept decreasing.

    Habitat Loss

    The recent expansion of Mexico city almost completely destroyed and drained the lake Xochimilco, one of the principal habitats of axolotls.

    Invasive Species

    Mexicans introduced a number of invasive species in Lake Xochimilco that have decimated axolotls numbers in the wild, ultimately contributing to their shape decline. Axolotls themselves are considered invasive in some areas, with efforts from local government to make them illegal to own.

    How long do axolotls live in their natural habitat?

    It would surprise you that axolotls only live for about five to six years in the wild. And that’s because these species are endangered in their natural habitat due to habitat loss, fatal illness, or predators that prey on them.

    Therefore, axolotls live for around five years to six years in the wild.

    How long do they live in captivity?

    Even though we don’t have solid numbers for the oldest-known Axolotl, axolotls can live for up toย 15 years in captivity.ย Some may even go forย 20 yearsย and longer if taken care of.

    Therefore, adopting an axolotl is a huge commitment that demands consistency and dedication.

    Factors that affect Their Lifespan

    Axolotl Morphs

    Like other salamander species, Axolotl’s life span mainly depends on the following factors. You can increase your axolotl life span by considering these factors and keeping them happy and healthy for an extended time.

    1. Water Quality

    If there is one thing that Axolotl cannot compromise, it is the tank’s water quality. Your axolotl tank’s suggested optimum water temperature is 59ยฐF to 60ยฐF (16-18ยฐC). As an estimate, the water temperature should not exceed 75ยฐF (24ยฐC).

    Additionally, the pH level of the water tank should be 7.4 – 7.6 to create a warm, welcoming environment for your smiley little pets. To increase Axolotl lifespan, your axolotl tank should be free of Chlorine and chloramines as they are harmful to your pet axolotls.

    If Chlorine is detected in the water, I suggest installing a de-chlorinator to minimize the effects. Also, to get rid of the traces of Chlorine, water should be left standing for at least 24 hours before adding your Axolotl.

    2. Tank Setup and Conditions

    Axolotl spends their entire lives underwater, so their only home is the tank in which they live. Make sure to reward your adorable pets with the best and high-quality tank setup and conditions.

    First of all, the tank size should suffice the needs of your Axolotl. The bare minimum tank size to house one juvenile axolotl is 10 gallons. However, the tank size should be no less than 20 gallons for adult axolotl. That’s because axolotls are solitary creatures, more like messy creatures that create a lot of waste. Thus, a small tank would create serious health problems in the long run.

    Secondly, it is advised to change the tank water frequently to avoid bacterial and fungal infections. Also, water changes helps keep the ammonia levels low. Suppose you’re someone who cannot commit to changing the water regularly. In that case, I suggest installing canister filters as the water flow in canister filters is regulated to prevent stress-related diseases in your pet axolotl. Also, I don’t recommend plants in an axolotl tank as your pets might destroy them, causing a lot of mess in the tank. If you must, consider soft and flexible plants so your axolotls can pass through them quickly. I suggest keeping Java ferns for axolotl tanks.

    Lastly, the best choice for the substrate is sand since the particles are soft and small and cause no potential damage if swallowed.

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    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Additionally, there is absolutely no need for proper lighting in the axolotl tank. The fact that these creatures lack eyelids, intense lighting is quite stressful to animals. Also, they are nocturnal animals and enjoy the darkness. If lighting is a requirement for your plants, you can invest in an L.E.D. Bulb for your aquarium. Many pet stores stock such lights, which are dimmable and fully adjustable.

    3. Food

    Axolotls are carnivorous and voracious eaters that eat pretty much anything that comes their way. However, it’s essential to feed them nutritious food rich in proteins to extend axolotl lifespan. Axolotls feast on live food such as earthworms, bloodworms, blackworms, brine shrimp, salmon pellets, etc. However, juvenile axolotls can eat daphnia, white worms, and grindal worms. You can also hand-feed your Axolotl to experience an adorable pet-parent moment.

    4. Handling

    Axolotls are part of the salamander family are aloof in nature and like to mind their own business in a peaceful, stress-free environment. Therefore, minimal handling is required for axolotls, especially if you want them to live a happy, healthy, and long life.

    Of course, you cannot avoid handling, especially while checking their skin or changing water, but it shouldn’t be done routinely. You can also keep Axolotl out of the water, although it is not recommended at all. That’s because axolotls have a slimy coat on their body which might be destroyed by your hands, posing a threat to contact bacterial infection. Therefore, keep your axolotls in water and unbothered for a longer lifespan.

    5. Tank Mates

    White Cloud Minnow

    Axolotls are like your introverted friends that love you but stay low-key. So, if you want to house other pets with your Axolotl, think again!

    Axolotls are nocturnal animals, and they can easily harm other sleeping fish for a healthy meal. Here, I’m going to list the best axolotls tank mates for your convenience.

    • Other Axolotls (Best choice as long as they have enough space and are of equal size)
    • Small Shrimp (ghost shrimps)
    • Guppies
    • Mini soft-shelled snails (Ramshorn snails)
    • White cloud minnows
    • Other species of peaceful cool water fish

    However, bear in mind that you would at least need a 55-gallon tank if you plan on keeping tank mates with your Mexican walking fish.

    FAQs

    Can you touch them?

    Although not recommended, you can touch your axolotls in the case of emergency and urgency, i.e., while changing tank water or checking for diseases and other problems. But, handling your axolotls shouldn’t be a routine task as it is much more stressful for the pet.

    Also, axolotls have a slimy coat on their skin, which might damage by the warmth of your hands, posing a severe threat to your axolotls.

    How long can they be out of water?

    Not so long. Axolotls can survive outside of water for a few minutes, and as soon as they dry out, things can get pretty ugly.

    Axolotls’ skin is covered with a slimy coat that protects them from danger and other fungal and bacterial infection. If axolotls are out of water for too long, this coat disappears, leaving the pet in danger.

    Are they good beginner pets?

    Yes and no.

    Axolotls are good beginner pets as they live underwater and require little to no handling. It also means that they don’t need any special care and attention. However, they are susceptible to stress-related diseases. Hence, this is why I don’t think they are a good choice for beginners.

    Axolotls are very sensitive to water quality and conditions. Most axolotls spend their lives in a stressful environment just because the owners don’t care enough about their surroundings.

    Therefore, if you’re a responsible novice keeper and plan to provide the proper water parameters, tank size, and optimal tank conditions to your axolotls, yes, axolotls are good beginner pets for you.

    Can they live for 100 years?

    No, axolotls live for around 10-15 years in captivity. The longest they can survive is approximately 20 years when the Axolotl is well-cared of in some rare cases.

    How long do these pets live?

    Pet axolotls live for around 10-15 years in general. In some extreme cases, when provided the suitable water parameters, conditions, and tank size, axolotls can live for up to 20 years.

    Are They Immortal?

    No. Axololts die naturally due to natural threats. In most cases, several factors contribute to their sudden, accidental death, such as inferior water quality, food that contains toxins and are hard to digest. The primary cause of axolotl death is overheating. Therefore, an aquarium chiller is recommended for axolotls’ tank.

    Axolotl lifespan is around 10-15 years with proper care, which is known to be the longest as compared to other aquatic animals.

    Can They regenerate body parts?

    Axolotls have the power to regenerate their body parts and internal organs such as limbs, lungs, heart, and brain.

    Their ability to regenerate limbs and other organs is the prime reason for their extended life expectancy. Because if they are exposed to diseases or accidents, they will regenerate, and the organs come back to their original state.

    How are axolotls different from other salamanders?

    Axolotls are different from other species in a variety of ways.

    1. Axolotls are larger than other species.
    2. Axolotls are only native to Lake Xochimilco, whereas other species can be found elsewhere.
    3. Unlike most amphibians, axolotls are neotenic, which means they don’t undergo metamorphosis, and their juvenile features are retained in the adult animal.
    4. Axolotls live entirely underwater and use gills for breathing.

    What causes Their death?

    Like other animals, axolotls die naturally. However, there are instances when they have an accidental death.

    The leading causes of Axolotl’s death are poor water quality, smaller tank size, high temperature, and unsuitable mates for your axolotl pets.

    To allow your axolotls to lead a happy, healthy life, it is imperative that you provide them with the right water parameters and conditions. Also, the quality of food should be superior. It is recommended to install an aquarium chiller or aquarium fans to main the water temperature.

    Final Thoughts

    So the answer to how long axolotls live is no longer a mystery. Axolotls, in captivity, can live for up to 10-15 years. Some may live longer for up to 20 years, provided their water and tank requirements are met.

    Axolotl lifespan wholly and solely depends on how you keep it. Proper axolotl care includes tank size, water quality, food quality. If you get that all right, your smiley little pets will live longer and happier with you.

  • Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size

    Sucker Fish Types: My Top Picks for Every Tank Size

    Sucker fish are one of the most misunderstood categories in the hobby. I’ve had people tell me their pleco “cleaned the algae” in a 10-gallon tank, not realizing it would grow to 18 inches and produce more waste than it ever consumed. Matching the right sucker fish to your tank size is everything โ€” and there are genuinely great options for small tanks if you know where to look.

    “Sucker fish” is one of those catch-all terms that gets thrown around a lot in the hobby, but it actually covers a pretty wide range of species โ€” from common plecos to otocinclus to Siamese algae eaters. After 25+ years of keeping and recommending these fish, the biggest mistake I see beginners make is buying a common pleco without knowing it can hit 18 inches. I’ve helped a lot of people rehome full-grown plecos that outgrew their tanks. My go-to recommendation for most community tanks is the bristlenose pleco โ€” it stays small, actually eats algae throughout its life, and is hardy enough for beginners. In this guide, I’ll walk you through the best sucker fish options for different tank sizes so you can make the right call from the start.

    The Top 10 Sucker Fish Types

    It’s time to learn more about ten great sucker fish species that you can keep! Different types of sucker fish have different needs so I’ve included a list of the most important information about each species that you need to know. For you visual learners, check out the video below from our YouTube channel.

    Pay attention to these facts and figures:

    • Scientific Name
    • Difficulty Level
    • Adult Size
    • Temperament
    • Origin
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Temperature
    • Diet
    • pH
    • Difficulty to breed
    • Planted tank suitability

    Now let’s meet some sucker fish!

    1. Otocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Peru, Colombia, Ecuador
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate -Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The otocinclus catfish is the best sucker fish for nano aquariums. That doesn’t mean this smaller species won’t enjoy a larger tank, however.

    Otos are incredibly peaceful little fish that love to eat algae. You’ll usually find these entertaining little fish sucking on the glass, ornaments, or plants in the aquarium. They will also swim around in the midwater of the aquarium and will be much happier if kept in groups.

    2. Chinese Algae Eater

    Chinese Algae Eater Fish
    • Scientific Name: Gyrinocheilus aymonieri
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 8-11 inches
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, dried foods, live & frozen foods, vegetables
    • pH: 6-8
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Chinese algae eater is a very common sucker fish in the hobby but one that should not be bought before doing careful research. These sucker fish can be pretty aggressive when they get older and have the scary habit of latching onto other fish and sucking on their slime coating.

    3. Bristle Nose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ semi-aggressive
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-81ยฐF
    • Diet: Vegetables, spirulina, live/frozen food
    • pH: 5.5-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    If you’re looking for a really strange and unique sucker fish for your aquarium, the bristlenose pleco could be a perfect choice! These fascinating fish are also known as the bushy nose pleco.

    They are relatively small as far as plecos go and very peaceful in a community aquarium. A small flower pot to hide in and some driftwood to graze on will keep this fish happy in the home aquarium.

    4. Siamese Algae Eater

    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus langei
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperature: 68-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, spirulina, vegetables
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed:
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    Siamese algae eaters are terrific little sucker fish that are famous for their habit of eating black brush algae (BBA). This makes them an awesome choice for planted tank enthusiasts who want a little help keeping their tank clean.

    5. Zebra Pleco

    Exotic Pleco
    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus zebra
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 3.2 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful/semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperature: 79-86ยฐF
    • Diet: Live/ frozen foods, sinking pellets
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The zebra pleco is one of the best-looking sucker fish in the hobby. They stay pretty small too, making them a good choice for smaller fish tanks.

    These eye-catching sucker fish are generally peaceful, but they can be a little aggressive towards other bottom-dwelling fish in the tank. Zebra plecos also need pretty hot water conditions to thrive, so keep that in mind when picking out tankmates.

    6. Sailfin Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys gibbiceps
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 18 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Temperature: 70-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen food
    • pH: 6.5-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The sailfin pleco (video source) is a large and beautiful sucker fish from South America. They get their name from their huge upright dorsal fin.

    These peaceful fish are easy to keep and do very well in community setups. At over a foot in length, however, they need a large aquarium in order to thrive.

    7. Trinidad Plecostomus

    Hypostomus punctatus
    • Scientific Name: Hypostomus punctatus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 11 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae
    • pH: 6-7.5
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The Trinidad pleco is a large species that is closely related to the common pleco or suckermouth catfish. It is a large algae eater that requires a large aquarium with plenty of swimming space. They are very peaceful and useful cleaners in large community tanks.

    8. Spotted Sailfin Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Pterygoplichthys joselimaianus
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 12-16 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Temperature: 74-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, vegetables
    • pH: 6.5-7.4
    • Difficulty to breed: Advanced
    • Planted tank suitability: Possible

    The spotted sailfin pleco is also known as the marbled sailfin or the gold spot pleco. These sucker fish are usually very peaceful with the other fish in their tank but they tend to show some aggression towards their own species and other plecos. These suckermouth catfish get big, so be sure to provide them with enough space.

    9. Peppermint Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Parancistrus nudiventris
    • Difficulty Level: Moderate
    • Adult Size: 7 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Brazil
    • Minimum Tank Size: 50 gallons
    • Temperature: 73-79ยฐF
    • Diet: Algae, sinking pellets, live/frozen foods
    • pH: 6.5-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    The peppermint pleco (video source) is another incredible armored suckermouth catfish of the Loricariidae family. These sucker fish are covered with whitish spots that create an amazing look almost like the starry night sky!

    Peppermint plecos are peaceful fish that are perfect for community aquariums with some water movement to recreate their natural habitat.

    10. Tiger Plecostomus

    • Scientific Name: Hypancistrus sp.
    • Difficulty Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Temperature: 77-82ยฐF
    • Diet: Sinking pellets, live/frozen foods, Algae, vegetables
    • pH: 5.8-7
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate
    • Planted tank suitability: Yes

    These sucker fish (video source) have beautiful markings, which is why they are named after striped big cats. Tiger plecos are usually black and white, although colorful golden morphs are available in the pet trade.

    These fish are very peaceful in a community setup, but should not be kept with other plecos to avoid territorial behavior or possible hybridizing.

    What Are They?

    Sucker fish fall into a broad category of mostly bottom-dwelling freshwater fishes that often use their specialized ventral mouth to feed and attach themselves to the ground and structure around them. Many of them are specialized algae eaters, while others graze on driftwood or feed on small invertebrates.

    Sucker fish belong to several groups including the family Loricariidae which includes the well-known suckermouth catfish. Other sucker fish species like the Siamese algae eater are cyprinids from the same family as well-known fish like goldfish and barbs.

    Suckerfish live in a variety of natural habitat types from lakes and small freshwater streams to slower-moving channels of larger rivers. Many of them are nocturnal fish, but they adapt really well to aquarium life and can be active in dim lighting.

    Tank Setup

    Sucker fish are a pretty diverse group, so your tank setup will depend on which species you plan to keep. Nano species like otos can be kept in fish tanks as small as 10 gallons, but some of the bigger plecos require a much bigger tank

    Let’s take a look at some general sucker fish aquarium setup tips.

    Substrate & Decorations

    Your choice of substrate is not particularly important unless you plan on growing a heavily planted tank. Aquarium sand or aquarium gravel will work just fine, and darker colors can help your fish feel more comfortable.

    Great For Bottom Feeders
    Fine Natural Sand

    Natural sand is excellent for bottom feeder fish to forage around in.

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    Some suckerfish like to spend the day hiding so providing some caves in the form of large ornaments or even a simple terracotta flower pot can help them feel more at home. Driftwood is also very important for these fish so be sure to place a few pieces in your tank.

    Lighting & Filtration

    Some sucker fish like otocinclus and Siamese algae eaters are ideal for heavily planted tanks because they are great for keeping the plants and glass clean. These fish do just fine under high lighting in these setups. Plecos, on the other hand, tend to be nocturnal and will be more active under dimmer lighting.

    Filtration is important in any aquarium, but particularly vital when keeping plecos which create rather a large amount of waste. Choose a filter that can process the total volume of your aquarium at least 5 times every hour.

    Heating

    Maintaining the proper temperature for your tropical freshwater fish is very important. Some species, like the bristlenose pleco, can often be kept in unheated aquariums. Most other species require relatively warm water, however.

    Using a good quality heater will be important to keep the temperature in your aquarium stable and in the comfortable range for your sucker fish. Add a small thermometer to help you keep an eye on the temperature.

    How To Care For

    After setting up a great aquarium for your sucker fish, you’re going to need to learn how to care for them and keep them healthy. Fortunately, most sucker fish are peaceful and easy to care for. Read on to learn more!

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Maintaining optimal water quality should be the first priority of every fishkeeper. Running a good quality filter and keeping your fish in a big enough tank is very important, but you’ll also need to test your water regularly and get ‘hands on’ to keep your tank clean.

    Before introducing any fish, pick up a water test kit and measure your water parameters to see if they are appropriate for the fish you want to keep. Your water chemistry will change over time, so you’ll need to do this regularly.

    Perform a regular water change every week or two to keep your nitrate levels down. This is a great opportunity to suck up waste from your substrate and rinse out your filtration media. Don’t forget to use a water conditioner to treat your tap water before refilling the aquarium.

    Feeding

    The different sucker fish species have different diets, so make sure you know what kind of fish you have and the kind of food it needs. Most species are considered to be bottom feeders.

    The following food sources are ideal for the omnivorous species of sucker fish:

    • Shrimp pellets
    • Sinking pellets
    • Blanched veggies
    • Live and frozen foods like brine shrimp and blood worms

    Some sucker fish eat algae as their staple diet. These fish will feed on the algae that grow naturally in your aquarium. If you don’t have enough algae to keep them well-fed, the following food sources make great supplements:

    Great For Bottom Feeders!
    Hikari Algae Wafers

    Algae wafers are a great way to directly feed your bottom feeding fish. They are especially effective for larger fish like plecos

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    Breeding

    Some sucker fish are very easy to breed and you might even find fry swimming around in your tank without even trying. Other species, however, can be pretty challenging or even close to impossible to breed at home. This can be a post in itself. To make it easier for you, I provided this video by Purely Aquatic.

    You will need to research the breeding habits of your specific species. For the best chance at success, set up a dedicated breeding tank and make sure your fish are kept healthy and in great condition.

    Best Tank Mates

    Most species of sucker fish are peaceful creatures that do great in community tanks. Plecos can be aggressive towards other members of their own species or other similar suckermouth fish that live on the bottom of the tank, however. Keeping just one of them in a community tank is usually the best bet.

    The general rule is to choose non-aggressive tank mates that are not much larger than your suckerfish. That way you don’t have to worry about them being eaten by another fish. Ideal tank mates will also enjoy the same tank setup and water parameters.

    Here are a few good tank mates to keep with peaceful sucker fish:

    Tankmates to Avoid

    • Any aggressive fish
    • Avoid keeping more than one pleco in the same tank
    • Avoid keeping large, slow-moving fish with Chinese algae eaters
    • Larger fish that could eat your sucker fish

    Where To Buy

    Most fish-keeping and pet stores sell a selection of sucker fish. Some of the rarer species will be much easier to find online, however. Always buy your fish from reputable breeders and stockists to be sure of the health and identity of the fish you buy.

    FAQS

    How big do they get?

    The adult size of any sucker fish depends on its species. Some of the biggest types can grow over 20 inches long!

    What do they eat?

    Sucker fish eat a variety of different food sources. Most species are omnivorous and will feed on both animal and plant matter. Some sucker fish are specialized for eating algae, and that makes them great clean-up crew animals for home aquariums.

    How long do they live?

    Some sucker fish can live as long as 15 years, depending on their species. Small fish like otocinclus catfish will not live as long and have a lifespan of about 5 years or less.

    Are plecos good fish for tanks?

    Plecos are great freshwater fish for home aquariums. There are loads of different species that come in a huge variety of colors and patterns. Like all fish, it is important to carefully research their needs before adding them to your tank.

    How many otocinclus should be kept together?

    Otocinclus are social little fish that thrive if kept in groups. They will be happiest if kept in groups of 5 or more.

    Final Thoughts

    Sucker fish are some of the most interesting freshwater fish species in the aquarium hobby! These oddball fish can do a great job of keeping the tank clean while adding more interest to the bottom of the aquarium. If you ask me, just about every community aquarium should include sucker fish.

    Do you keep sucker fish? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them

    Planaria In Aquariums: How I Identify and Get Rid of Them

    The first time I spotted white worms wriggling in one of my tanks, I did a double take. Planaria are one of those pests that seem to appear out of nowhere โ€” and they can quickly become a real problem, especially in shrimp tanks. Over the years I’ve dealt with them in multiple setups, and I’ve learned that overfeeding is almost always the root cause. These flatworms thrive when there’s excess organic waste, so the best defense starts with good tank hygiene. In this guide I’ll cover what planaria actually are, why they show up, and the most effective ways I’ve used to get rid of them without nuking your whole tank.

    What Are They?

    Planaria are commonly known as flatworms. These animals belong to the Turbellaria class and the larger phylum of Platyhelminthes1. They can be found in a variety of ecosystems, including freshwater, brackish water, marine, and even in humid terrestrial settings. There, they play an important role in the ecosystem and can even be used as a bioindicator for the conditions of the environment. Though Planaria are abundant, they are actually quite sensitive to poor environmental conditions.

    In addition, species of Planaria exhibit regeneration. These incredible animals are able to regenerate a new independent flatworm from just 1/200th of a piece; if split in two, the head piece will develop a tail while the tail piece will develop a head. Planaria also share some genetic similarities with humans, making flatworm bioindication and regeneration a hot topic of scientific study and application.

    Because flatworms are so small and elusive, it’s impossible to know how many species exist, though rough estimates are about 4,500 unique worms. One thing is for sure though, they have happily made their way into the home aquarium.

    What Do They Look Like?

    If you have a planted tank or reef setup, you probably have aquarium worms in your aquarium whether you like it or not. While most species of Planaria flatworms are harmless, the good ones are difficult to tell apart from the bad ones. This is why it’s recommended to remove and treat for planarian flatworm if you find one in your aquarium regardless.

    First, you need to know what one of these small worms looks like.

    Planaria Worm Under Microscope

    Planaria flatworms are named after their flat bodies. These animals are dorsoventrally compressed, meaning they have flattened bodies from both the under and upper sides. One of their main characteristics is their triangular head, which usually has two observable eyespots.

    Flatworms are very small and typically stay well under half an inch in length. There are a few types of planaria worm found in the aquarium:

    • Light Planaria, sometimes called white Planaria or white worms, are typically species from the Procotyla genus. They are freshwater worms from North America and Russia. They are very light and creamy in color, though they might have bursts of darker color across their bodies.
    • Dark Planaria are often Dugesia species, which are much more widespread throughout the world and are found in freshwater ecosystems.
    • Red flatworms (Convolutriloba spp.) are one of the most common marine Planaria worms to come across. They reproduce quickly and can quickly suffocate corals. When killed, these rust-colored worms also release a toxin that can become dangerous to other aquarium inhabitants. Interestingly, red flatworms are largely photosynthetic.

    Keep in mind that Planaria flatworms are typically only a few millimeters in length, making them incredibly difficult to accurately identify. Planaria flatworms are not the only worm in the aquarium though, and lots of other aquatic worms are beneficial to our systems.

    It can be easy to confuse Planaria worms with detritus worms that live in the substrate, cleaning up leftover food and providing oxygenation. Detritus worms will typically stay in the substrate or along the bottom of the aquarium and have a long and thin rounded body. This is much different from the flattened appearance of a flatworm.

    Planaria In Aquarium? How Do They Get In

    Planarian worms are hitchhikers just like any other creature that has unknowingly made its way into your aquarium. They show up in your aquarium one day, fully established.

    Like other hitchhikers, Planaria flatworms enter the aquarium through direct transfer of rock, media, substrate, plants, or other aquarium decorations. It is also possible that Planaria eggs are transferred on these objects which will then hatch in the new aquarium. On rare occasions, Planarian worms and eggs may be transferred with the aquarium water.

    Like many other pests, Planaria populations will largely depend on the overall resource availability of the fish tank; population numbers may increase and decrease depending on water quality and feeding frequencies. While it’s normal to find one or two Planaria flatworms every now and then, you might find yourself facing an infestation.

    No matter how many worms you observe in your aquarium, it is always recommended to remove them as soon as possible. This is mainly to prevent an infestation but also because it can be hard to know if the type of flatworm you have is harmful to your system or not. It is better to prevent a problem before it happens than to clean up the mess.

    Are They Harmful To Fish?

    But how harmful are Planaria worm species? Will they kill your fish and invertebrates overnight or wait until you least expect it to strike?

    No, it is very unlikely for Planaria to affect your fish and larger invertebrates, like shrimp and snails (and also crabs); at the same time, Planaria have been known to attack and kill shrimp (see video above). While some species of Planaria are parasitic, they are rarely seen in the home aquarium. Instead, most fish tank Planaria species are free-living, burrowing into the rocks and substrate.

    These free-living Planaria worms can become problems, especially for corals. One of the most common pests is the red Planaria worm, which reproduces quickly and suffocates corals. However, there are other types of flatworm that target specific species of coral, like the Acropora eating flatworms (AEFW).

    These flatworms, Amakusaplana acroporae, are nearly impossible to see before it’s too late. AEFW flatworms feast on the coral’s flesh and then lay their eggs around the base of the skeleton. These Planaria worms are nearly the exact same color as the Acropora they eat, making them blend in and camouflage an already bare coral skeleton.

    On the other hand, a controlled Planaria population can be beneficial for the home aquarium. These worms are excellent members of the cleanup crew and are a high-protein source of food for many fish species, especially wrasses. With careful feeding and regulation, these pests can be put to good use.

    How To Get Rid of Worms

    The problem is that by the time you find one Planaria swimming across the front of your aquarium glass, you already have a problem. Remember, these worms reproduce quickly and one can quickly lead into a full Planaria infestation.

    Because these worms are so small, removal can be difficult. Luckily, there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms through manual removal, chemical treatment, or the addition of new aquarium inhabitants.

    Manual Removal Of Flatworms

    Manually removing flatworms is like treating any other pest and requires determination and consistency.

    However, it’s important to keep in mind that some Planaria worms are capable of releasing toxins into the aquarium upon death, which should be avoided as much as possible. For extra precaution, make sure to run activated carbon filter media.

    Otherwise, these worms can be carefully removed from the aquarium over the course of a few weeks.

    Aquarium Vacuuming

    Remove worms as you see them. If you find one crawling along the aquarium glass, carefully use a net or other container to get it out of the fish tank. This might seem simple enough, but it’s also worth taking a few extra minutes during a water change to suck up any flatworms that you see on corals, rocks, or plants with an aquarium vacuum.

    Some species, like the red flatworm, are easier to remove than others. After safely removing them from the tank water, they may be disposed of through specialized coral dips, boiling water, or other proven household chemicals.

    At the same time, feedings should be decreased. As mentioned before, a blossoming Planarian worm population is often directly linked to food availability. By limiting food temporarily while also undergoing population control, eliminating flatworms becomes a whole lot easier.

    Flatworm Traps

    Because hobbyists regularly struggle with flatworm infestation scares, tools have been developed to make the solution as easy as possible. One of these tools is a planaria trap.

    These traps come in many shapes and designs and may even be DIY’d. The main goal is to draw as many worms as possible by using extra smelly bait and leftover food. The Planaria trap is designed to allow the flatworms to enter but not to leave, letting hobbyists leave their aquariums alone to catch worms for them.

    The problem with the Planaria trap is that it can attract other smaller invertebrates and cleanup crew, like adult shrimp and other worms. Though the trap won’t kill them immediately, it makes predation easier while also stressing out the animals.

    The other problem with using a Planaria trap is that progress is slow and indefinite. These traps will not get rid of a Planaria infestation. Instead, they can regularly be used for population control.

    Chemical Treatment

    If your Planaria infestation is literally out of your hands, then you may need to turn to a more immediate solution. However, chemical treatment should be a last resort as products designed only for Planaria worms can be difficult to find and dose. Luckily, there are a few products that only affect Planaria, though they might originally be meant for other animals.

    The best chemical treatments for eliminating Planaria are:

    • Praziquantel. This treatment is generally safe for most fish species, though wrasses might be more susceptible to negative side effects. It may kill fan and bristle worms but should not affect other invertebrates in fish tanks.
    • Salifertโ€™s Flatworm Exit. This chemical is one of the safest for all reef organisms, but can sometimes be ineffective at normal doses. This makes it so that you need to overdose on the product, which can lead to a mass die-off of worms that then release too many toxins that affect the whole tank.
    • Levamisole hydrochloride. Products that have this active ingredient are Levisol, Fenbendazole, Safe-Guard, and Paracur. These chemical treatments offer wide coverage and will kill most invertebrates in the aquarium and should be used as a last resort.
    • Interceptor. A canine dewormer that is used for reef tanks to eliminate flatworm infections
    • No Planaria. This is a shrimp-safe treatment that works for heavy infestations. Make sure to remove beneficial aquarium snails and chemical media when using this product. The active ingredient is Betel nut palm extract. This is a natural treatment that can be effective against planaria in the aquarium.
    No Planaria

    A shrimp safe treatment that works to eliminate Planaria from your aquarium. Great for battling infestions

    Buy On Amazon

    While these chemicals can be extremely effective, most do not treat for Planaria eggs. This is why it’s recommended to quarantine all new live rock (for saltwater tanks), plants, substrate, and filter media that is being transferred from one aquarium to another.

    New Fish And Invertebrates

    One of the best things about having Planaria worms in your aquarium is having an excuse to buy new fish and invertebrates. Like any other solution for pests, new aquarium inhabitants should not be purchased for a temporary solution. Fish and invertebrates should be given what they need for an indefinite time period.

    That being said, there are a few natural predators that eat Planaria in Freshwater tanks.

    Freshwater Angelfish

    • Scientific Name: Pterophyllum spp.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 6 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-Aggressive

    Freshwater angelfish are big, colorful fish that can work up an appetite. These fish are largely categorized as omnivores but can go into a frenzied state when live, meaty foods are introduced into the aquarium.

    This can be used to the benefit of the hobbyist as freshwater angelfish are likely to go after flatworms to supplement their diet. Though these fish aren’t the most proactive hunters, they can certainly help keep worm populations under control.

    Once flatworm populations run low, angelfish can then sustain themselves on other foods instead.

    Gouramis

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster spp.
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10-40 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 6 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-aggressive

    Gouramis and angelfish have very similar diets and are just as capable of controlling a flatworm population in the fish tank. These colorful fish species will gladly eat any flatworms they come across, and won’t need to be supplemented in the future.

    Again, gouramis will not eliminate the problem completely but will help keep numbers down.

    Tiger Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 3 inches
    • Aggression: Semi-Aggressive

    In a school, tiger barb behavior has sometimes been equated to that of a hungry pack of piranhas, and they definitely have the predatory instincts to prove it!

    Like angelfish, tiger barbs go into a frenzy when food is present. They are largely omnivores but will prefer a more meat-based diet, making them the perfect candidate to eat Planaria worms. The only problem can be their over-aggression, which limits tank mate options.

    Assassin Snails

    • Scientific Name: Clea helena
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Maximum Size: 3 inches

    If you’re pressed on space or just can’t add another fish to your aquarium, then an assassin snail might be what you’re looking for. However, these snails won’t go after flatworms on their own and they might need some encouragement; all the while, it’s likely that your assassin snail will attack any other snails in the aquarium.

    In order to get your assassin snail to target flatworms, it’s recommended to feed the tank less. This will make your snail hungrier and possibly more interested in the prey that is already available.

    It should be noted that this is not a guaranteed method but can help hobbyists keep up with manual removal.

    Saltwater solutions

    In general, wrasses and blue velvet nudibranchs (Chelidonura variants) are the best biological solutions to get rid of Planaria worms. The six line wrasse (Pseudocheilinus hexataenia), melanurus wrasse (Halichoeres melanurus), yellow coris, and canary wrasse (Halichoeres chrysus) are especially known for their flatworm-eliminating powers.

    Planaria worms are great food for fish and most species of wrasse won’t turn down a free meal. Unfortunately, wrasses are active fish that need more space than the blue velvet nudibranch. They also prefer a substrate that they can burrow into at night.

    Other Options

    Hobbyists have also tried some species of dragonet and blenny, but both these fish seem to be more interested in other food in the aquarium first.

    Some hobbyists have even tried peppermint shrimp (Lysmata wurdemanni) that are successful Aiptasia hunters. However, they’re just as likely to move on to other foods first than to fully control Planaria worm populations in the aquarium.

    Quarantine And Prevention

    The best way to prevent a Planaria worm outbreak is by stopping them from entering your freshwater or saltwater aquarium in the first place. This can be done by quarantining new live rocks, plants, filter media, and other aquarium decorations. Preventative dips may also be used for faster results.

    With any new addition to the aquarium, a quarantine period should be allowed. This should last about 2-4 weeks to allow worms to emerge and for any eggs to hatch. At this point, the problem is contained and can be freely treated with any of the methods mentioned before: manual removal, chemical treatment, or added fish and invertebrates.

    The benefit of quarantine is that you don’t need to worry about sensitive fish or invertebrates that would otherwise be affected by the most effective chemical treatment options. You also don’t need to worry about nuking your tank with dead Planaria!

    The quicker method (for saltwater tanks) is rinsing new objects and media in a coral dip or other homemade solution. There are many coral dips that will treat a variety of pests, including flatworms.

    An alum dip is especially popular for dipping and treating freshwater live plants.

    While these dips are largely effective, some worms have grown immune to their effects. Planarian eggs may also not be affected and may need to be manually removed.

    Final Thoughts

    Planaria flatworms aren’t something you want to see in your aquarium, but they’re not the most destructive or overwhelming pest. Luckily there are a few methods to get rid of Planaria worms, including manual removal, chemical treatments, and new aquarium additions.

    As with any pest, prevention is the best way for eliminating flatworms altogether.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    The 7 Best Betta Foods: What I Actually Feed My Bettas

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, Iโ€™ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in picking the best foods for their fish. Iโ€™ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best foods for your betta fish.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    • Insect based
    • High protein
    Most Available
    Northfin Bits
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Bio-Gold
    • Easy to find in stores
    • Easy to feed

    For those of you in a hurry, let’s cut to the chase. My top recommendation are Fluval Bug Bits. This product is made from solider fly larvae and provides everything a betta needs as a main food staple. Northfin betta pellets is also an excellent choice and well priced for what you get it has not fillers and is better than the vast majority of pellet products available. The most available and best budget option would be Hikari Betta Bio-Gold. This is sold in an easy to measure packet that makes it very easy to feed your betta the correct portions.

    The Candidates – A Quick Comparison

    Going through all the various fish food products out there, here are the products that made the cut for me. Each are high quality foods. I select a product for each type of fish food.

    PictureNameBest ForLink
    Editor’s Choice
    Fluval Bug Bites
    Fluval Bug Bites
    • Pellet food
    • Natural
    • High protien
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Best Value
    Northfin Betta Bits
    Northfin Betta Bits
    • Pellet food
    • Made for bettas
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Beginner Friendly
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold
    • Pellet food
    • Easy to feed
    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Freeze Dried Blackworms Freeze Dried Blackworms
    • Freeze dried
    • Can be soaked in vitamins
    Buy On Amazon
    Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia
    • Freeze dried
    • Multi-vitamin enhanced
    Buy On Amazon
    SF Bay Multi-Pack SF Bay Multi-Pack
    • Frozen food
    • Great variety
    Buy On Petco
    Frozen Bloodworms Frozen Bloodworms
    • Frozen food
    • Great source of protein
    Buy On Petco

    The 7 Best Betta Food Products

    Let’s go into detail and see why each product made this list below.

    1. Fluval Bug Bites

    As I mentioned earlier, Bettas are primarily insect eaters. This is their staple diet in the wild. Fluval’s bug bites formula attempts to replicate this by using Black Solider Fly larvae as the primary ingredient in their food line. This particular line is made for Bettas, with a small enough granule size to accommodate their mouths.

    What you get is a natural and protein rich fish food in an easy to digest pellet. This pellets are your usual pellets as they break apart easily and function more like freeze dried food. From a digestive perspective, it’s the perfect pellet. The folks at Fluval explain their process and reasons for the formula below.

    This betta fish food is great nutritionally, best can be messy to feed. Keep this in mind when using it so you don’t accidentally end up with excessive food wasted. Once you learn how to feed with it, it’s the best overall food you can buy. I recommend this as a staple food to mix with the others mentioned below.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Insect derived
    Cons
    • Can be messy to feed
    • Doesn’t always float

    2. Northfin Bits

    Best Betta Pellet Food
    Northfin Betta Bits

    A pellet fish specially formulated for Betta Fish. This is a great staple pellet food to add to your Betta’s diet!

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

    Looking for high-quality pellet food to feed your betta? Look no further than Northfin Betta Bits! These pellets are made in Canada and are packed with protein, making them the perfect choice for your finned friend. Plus, they contain no fillers, so you can be sure your Betta is getting the nutrients they need.

    The pellets are perfectly sized for bettas and tend to give a good feeding response to your fish. It is going to be more expensive than lower-quality pellet foods but is one of the best pellet foods you can purchase today. I feel they are superior to the omega one betta line and new life spectrum betta foods that compete with it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Made for bettas
    • Ideal sized pellets
    Cons
    • Sink quicker than other pellets
    • Expense for a pellet food

    3. HikariBio-Gold Baby Pellets

    Hikari Betta Bio-Gold

    Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold formula. Contains high quality ingredients in an easy to use feeding package. A great beginner food

    Buy On Amazon Buy On Petco

    If you are looking for the perfect betta fish food for a beginner it would have to be Hikari’s Betta Bio-Gold. The way the package is designed is made for the beginner. You can use the package to count the number of pellets and ensure your fish is not overfed.

    The food itself is also of great quality. It is designed by Hikari, which is known for its superior quality food. The food itself has been researched by Hikari’s R&D team. They were the first food manufacturer to design food for specific species of fish long before it was fashionable to do in the aquarium trade.

    You don’t get as much food as other products, but the package makes feeding easy to do. Make sure you take care of the package though, as it can break over time and doesn’t have a cap like other pellet foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • High quality ingredients
    • Easy to feed
    • Great price
    Cons
    • Not a lot of food
    • Package can break

    4. Freeze Dried California Blackworms

    Blackworms have gotten my attention over the years as superior live food for marine fish. It also is a great food source for freshwater fish and bettas. I feel blackworms are superior to freeze-dried bloodworms due to their better nutritional profile. These blackworms are freeze-dried and easy to feed to your bettas.

    As with other friend-dried foods, they will easily soak up any type of vitamin product you use. I would recommend Vita-chem for freshwater fish. Using these blackworms and a vitamin doser will greatly enhance your Betta’s color and activity

    This is a very filling betta fish food that you will need to be careful about overfeeding. It also does not float much. There is a bit of a learn curb with this food over others, but if you are doing this food with Vita-chem you will have a food combo that is rich in protein and vitamins.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great protein source
    • Can be vitamin dosed
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesnโ€™t float much
    • Can be messy

    5. Hikari Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Hikari Bio-Pure Freeze Dried Daphnia

    Daphnia is a great food source for fish. Comes multi-vitamin enhanced and easy to feed.

    Buy On Amazon

    If you don’t want to worry about fish bloat, Daphnia is a great food source to try. It is considered a great laxative in the aquarium trade. This freeze dried version from Hikari also comes vitamin enriched, saving you on having to use a vitamin doser.

    This betta fish food also provides one of the best feeding responses from freeze dried food. As you move up the chain in quality from from pellet to freeze dried to frozen food, this product is a great stepping stone to get your Betta fish more comfortable and ready for whole foods.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Vitamin enhanced
    • Best feeding response
    • Laxative for fish
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Can be messy

    6. San Francisco Bay Brand Frozen Freshwater Multipacks

    Anyone who has been in the aquarium hobby for a while will rave about the benefits of whole frozen foods for fish. The problem with many frozen foods is you only tend to get one type of ingredient. This variety pack from SF Bay addresses this issue by offering 4 types of fish food in one package. You get the following with this product:

    • Freshwater Frenzy – Bloodworms, Cyclops, and Daphnia
    • Emerald Entree – Spirula, Mysis Shrimp, Fish Oil
    • Spirulina Brine Shrimp – The best frozen brine shrimp you can buy
    • Bloodworms – A common freshwater fish staple

    All of these formulas are whole foods, rich in vitamins and protein and food your betta will gobble up. The cubes are large for a betta fish, so plan on store your food properly. This food is expensive and will take up space in your freezer. Keep this in mind when you consider purchasing it.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Variety
    • Highly nutritious 
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Doesn’t float
    • Messy

    7. Gamma Frozen Bloodworms

    Frozen blood worms are a great treat for your Betta fish. These are an excellent source of natural protein for your fish and is pathogen free being a frozen food.

    These worms can be very filling and will get your fish looking fat fast. This fish food is easy to overfeed, so watch the portions that you provide to your fish.

    Pros and Cons

    Pros
    • Great feeding response
    • Very filling
    Cons
    • Expensive
    • Messy

    What Kinds Of Things Do They Actually Eat In The Wild?

    Betta fish are insectivores meaning they primarily eat insects in the wild1. In the wild, they will eat insects and insect larvae. Because of their diet in the wild, this means that you will want to ensure your Betta eats a diet that is rich in protein, but also has the roughage of to keep them from getting bloat. Roughage for a insect full of insects would be chitin from arthropods like brine shrimp and krill. This can make low grade processed fish food suspect.

    Our Criteria

    When it comes to figuring out the best betta food in the aquarium trade, I look at several factors when going over the options you can buy today.

    • Natural foods – I want food Betta actually eat in the wild and that is nutritious to them
    • No fillers – Fillers are in low quality food. I want more whole food and natural food for your pet
    • Quality brands – No generic or unproven brands. Sticking to tried and true here
    • All types of foods – I’m select foods from pellet, freeze dried, and frozen

    By looking at the list, you should have a well balance menu for your betta fish by purchasing the foods recommended.

    Types

    Let’s look at the various types of food available on the aquarium trade for Bettas. Generally, the heirarchy of food from worst to best goes Flake Food > Pellet Food > Freeze Dried Food > Frozen Food > Live Food.

    Unfortunately, live food is unpractical for most, but I’ll explain more below.

    Flake

    Flake food is the food you will find at all pet stores. It is going to be the cheapest and easiest to feed food you can purchase. While you can buy it, it is often times going to be the lower quality food you can purchase. It is best to use in a pitch or for an auto-feeder, but shouldn’t be a food you should rely on heavily.

    Pros of Flake

    • Cheap
    • Easy to feed
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Flake

    • Highly processed
    • Typically going to be the poorest quality fish food

    Pellets

    Pellet Foods

    Pellet food a step up from flake and actually has some high quality brands like Northfin and Hakari available. This food I feel can be a staple for for your Betta, but you do have to be careful with over relying on it. Pellet food if overfed can result in constipation and bloat issues. You can mitigate this by soaking your pellets before feeding them. It is going to be the highest quality food you can use in a

    Pros of Pellets

    • Good brands available
    • Easy to use
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Pellet

    • Can cause constipation or bloat
    • Quality can vary

    Freeze Dried

    Freeze dried food offers whole food that is dried and less processed than pellet or flake food. It looks more real to your Betta and will encourage a feedingresponse. It can also be dipped in vitamins, which this food does an amazing job soaking up. Freeze dried food can also be used in an auto feeder

    Pros of Freeze Dried

    • Whole food
    • Takes vitamins well
    • Can be placed in an auto feeder

    Cons of Freeze Dried

    • More expensive
    • Can be messy

    Frozen

    Frozen food offers a whole and nutritious meal for your betta fish. It will have the highest nutrient content and will be the most filling for your fish. Frozen food is where you get to see your fish really pig out when they eat. It is the second most expensive of the foods available and can be messy. It can be easy to overfed if aren’t too careful. It’s also smelly.

    Pros of Frozen

    • Very nutritious
    • Very filling
    • Lots of variety

    Cons of Frozen

    • Messy
    • Expensive

    Live Foods

    Daphnia

    Live foods are the best food you can fed to a Betta, if you have the time and patience for it. You provide your fish the essential guy bacteria in order for them to build a healthy immune system and the feeding response is second to none. Even the pickiest fish cannot resist live foods.

    It is best if you are going to use live fish food to cultivate your own. You can buy them at a pet store, but you run the risk of transferring disease. It is time consuming and can be messy to make your own live food, but it is also very rewards — and your Betta fish will love you for it!

    For live foods, daphnia, brine shrimp, and California black worms are great to cultivate.

    Pros of Live

    • Best feeding response
    • Best nutrition
    • Great for picky fish

    Cons of Live

    • Risk of disease
    • Time consuming

    How Much Do You Feed Your Pet?

    This is a very popular question I get from readers. Betta fish always look hungry and like to beg for food. This can make it seem like they are starving all the time. While it could be great for your fish to feed them all the time, it isn’t great for their digestive system and its not great for the health of your water. Your lives are busy as well with lots of responsibilities. It can be difficult to feed a fish multiple times of days.

    Knowing all of this, I can comfortably say that you should feed your pet Betta once a day six days a week. Why only six days? This is because it’s a good idea to have freshwater fish fast for a day a week in order to clean out their digestive systems. Betta can live for nearly a week without food, but you don’t obviously want to do that.

    FAQs

    What is the best food to feed them?

    The best food to feed betta fish would be cultured live foods like daphnia and blackworms. However, this is something that can be time consuming and not what a hobbyist would want to do. Frozen foods mixed with dried foods and a high quality pellet food staple would be the best combo of foods to feed a Betta fish. Look for brands like Fluval, Hikari, and Northfin when shopping for Betta food.

    Do they prefer flakes or pellets?

    Bettas will prefer pellets over flake foods. Pellets will replicate their natural foods more and can be gulped up in one bite. Overall, pellet food is going to be of higher quality than flake food.

    How many pellets should I feed my pet?

    The number of pellets will actually depend on the type of pellet you are feeding your Betta fish. Usually 4-7 pellets a day is going to be okay for your Betta fish, but it could be more or less depending on the food and the size of your fish.

    Take a look at your Betta’s belly after eating, the belly should be full but not extended. If you are getting more of a bloated look, consider cutting down on the food. You should start with a small number of pellets and work yourself up when determining how many to feed your fish each day.

    Why is mine spitting out his pellets?

    There are a few reasons why your betta might be spitting out his pellets. The most common reason is that the pellets are too big for him to eat or not soft enough. Bettas have small mouths, so they can only eat small pellets. If the pellets are too big, they will spit them out.

    Another reason might be that the pellets are old and stale. If they’ve been sitting in the water for a while, they might not be as fresh as they once were. Finally, some bettas just don’t like eating pellets. They would rather eat live food or frozen food. If your betta is spitting out his pellets, you can try giving him smaller pellets or fresher pellets. You can also try frozen or live foods.

    Closing Thoughts

    While there are many different types of betta foods on the market, we recommend sticking to these seven. They provide a well-rounded and high-quality diet for your fish and will help them stay healthy and looking their best. If youโ€™re looking for variety in your bettaโ€™s diet, experiment with some of the other foods on the list. But always make sure that they are Bettafish safe! Do you have a favorite type of food to feed your betta? Leave a comment below and let us know what it is!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    How to Prevent Snail Eggs From Taking Over Your Aquarium

    Snail egg explosions are something almost every planted tank keeper runs into eventually โ€” including me. I’ve had mystery snails I intentionally kept, and I’ve had hitchhiker bladder snails multiply to the hundreds before I even noticed what was happening. The key is catching it early and understanding where the eggs come from, because new plants and dรฉcor are usually the culprit.

    Snail eggs are one of those problems that sneak up on you. One week your tank looks fine, and the next you’ve got hundreds of tiny snails coating the glass. I’ve been through this more than once โ€” usually after adding live plants without quarantining them first. Most pest snails like bladder snails and ramshorn snails hitchhike in as eggs on plants, and they can multiply fast once they’re established. The good news is that prevention is straightforward once you know what to look for, and there are reliable ways to get things back under control. Here’s what I’ve learned works โ€” and what doesn’t.

    Freshwater Snails (Where Snail Eggs Come From)

    Snail eggs start with adult snails. Whether you like it or not, snails will most likely end up in your freshwater fish tank. These invertebrates are some of the most successful hitchhikers, invading tanks by the hundreds.

    The problem is that snails start off very small. They like to attach themselves to live plants and other aquarium decorations before being transferred to a new tank, making the transition from one setup to another seamless. Even more so, most freshwater snail eggs are extremely difficult to spot and are mostly immune to pesticides.

    Once in the aquarium, snails will continue to reproduce either sexually or asexually; as we’ll see, there is one species of aquarium snail in particular that needs brackish water conditions to reproduce and is the most optimal choice for controlled systems. Otherwise, snail overpopulation can become a big problem for hobbyists very quickly as more snails equal more waste.

    To understand how snails reproduce, we need to first understand more about the different species available to hobbyists. The main species are:

    Malaysian Trumpet Snails

    Trumpet Snail
    • Scientific name: Melanoides tuberculata
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Asexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Malaysian trumpet snails are some of the most problematic snails as they are believed to reproduce asexually. These snails are small and difficult to see on incoming plants and decorations as they stay under an inch long.

    These aquarium snails are so problematic because not only are they asexual, but they also give birth to live young. This makes it impossible to prevent reproduction; as long as there is food in the tank, this freshwater snail species will continue to reproduce indefinitely.

    Ramshorn Snails

    Ramshorn Snail
    • Scientific name: Planorbidae family
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Ramshorns are unique and beautiful snails, which is probably why they end up overrunning so many aquarium systems. They have tight, swirled shells that can come in many light and dark color variations. Ramshorn snails are also effective algae cleaners and don’t take up a lot of space.

    The problem is that many beginner hobbyists see these freshwater snails and think to add several to their new tank. As a sexual snail species, ramshorn snails will reproduce and lay eggs almost immediately. Once ramshorn snails have entered your aquarium, they will continue to thrive based on food availability.

    Ramshorn snail eggs are some of the most difficult to see, with a transparent sac surrounding nearly transparent eggs. These eggs are usually laid at or below the waterline.

    Mystery

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Maximum size: 1-2 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: Yes

    Mystery snails are one of the most common freshwater snails to come across in your local pet store, but you won’t find them in more experienced hobbyist tanks. These snails might look like great cleaners, but they’re simply too large and reproduce too quickly if more than one snail is in the aquarium.

    This species is one of the most colorful, ranging in color from light greys and yellows to marbled browns. However, they’re not the best at cleaning algae and can become a pest if allowed to reproduce. It’s believed that their radula, or their teeth-like structure, are not as strong as better algae-eating snails. Because these snails are comparatively big, they do better in larger tanks.

    Mystery snail eggs are some of the largest and most noticeable. These clutches are very dense and usually laid at or above the waterline on the aquarium glass.

    Assassin

    • Scientific name: Anentome helena
    • Maximum size: 3 inches
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Assassin snails are another popular aquarium snail species in the hobby due to their usefulness (video from The Dave). As their name implies, they are predatory snails that will attack and eat other snails. This can be very useful for controlling pest snail populations. Unfortunately, this also means that they’ll leave problematic algae alone.

    Assassin snails are one of the bigger species of snail and need a larger minimum tank size. They have a bright brown and yellow swirled shell that provides color to the aquarium while serving a purpose. This helps them blend into the substrate, where they will burrow and bury themselves until ready to feed.

    As for freshwater snails, assassin snails are the least likely to overpopulate an aquarium as they need a sexual partner and lay eggs one at a time. Though they’ll kill most snail species and even possibly dwarf shrimp, they’ll mostly leave larger ones alone.

    Assassin snail eggs are singular and hard to see. They are most often laid on the aquarium glass in translucent sacs.

    Nerite

    • Scientific name: Neritina spp.
    • Maximum size: 1 inch
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Reproduction: Sexually
    • Pest: No

    Nerite snail species are probably the best snail to have in both the freshwater and saltwater aquarium. These snails are great cleaners, stay relatively small, and have attractive yellow and brown swirled shells.

    The best thing about Neritina species is that they need brackish or saltwater conditions to reproduce. This makes it impossible for nerite snails to overpopulate a freshwater tank, leaving them to focus on cleaning.

    Still, it is very common for females nerite snails to lay eggs in the freshwater aquarium. These nerite snail eggs will look like small white capsules on the underside of driftwood, rocks, and plants. However, they will not hatch if the water never becomes saline.

    Snail Eggs

    If you introduce any of the freshwater snails on this list into your aquarium, you’re bound to find snail eggs. Whether these eggs are fertilized and hatch will depend on the species of aquarium snail you’re dealing with. It is safe to say that ramshorn snail and mystery snail eggs will all be fertilized and turn into a bunch of baby snails.

    First, you need to be able to identify what aquarium snail eggs look like. Then, you can deal with removing them and controlling snail populations.

    What Do Freshwater Aquarium Varieties Look Like?

    Snail Eggs on Aquarium Glass

    Freshwater snail eggs are easy to identify but difficult to find.

    Snails lay their eggs in safe areas that are hard to reach or out of sight. This means under the leaves of live plants, driftwood, and even rocks, though sometimes snails will lay eggs right at the waterline. Looking for snail eggs is especially important when bringing new live plants into the aquarium as they can be easy to miss, causing a snail infestation.

    For the most part, freshwater snail eggs look the same no matter the species of snail. Snail eggs are laid in a clutch. Each egg clutch is filled with individual eggs safely packed within a transparent gelatinous sac. This is in contrast with nerite snails that lay individual eggs in a line.

    These individual infertile eggs can be blue, pink, or creamy and are slightly transparent. Once they become fertilized eggs, they will turn darker in color and have observable dark and brown spots across the individual egg. If the eggs go unfertilized, they will not change in color or appearance.

    How Long Do They Take To Hatch?

    Again, how long it takes for snails eggs to hatch will depend on the species. In general, freshwater snail eggs will hatch in between 2 to 4 weeks after being fertilized.

    Water parameters, especially water temperature, will greatly influence how quickly eggs hatch. However, there aren’t many benefits to speeding up the process as snails are easy to breed.

    If several weeks pass and your baby snails have yet to hatch, then there is a chance that something went wrong or they were never fertilized. At this point, the unfertilized eggs may be removed or left in the tank for other fish and invertebrates to eat.

    Removing From Your Tank

    As mentioned before, many hobbyists struggle with snail infestations. Having too many snails is not always a good thing as there start to be more disadvantages than benefits.

    But how do you know if you should remove snail eggs from your aquarium or not?

    Unless you’re breeding snails for a reason, like for feeding predatory fish, snail eggs should always be removed from the aquarium. After the first pair of snails, the population growth becomes exponential, which can quickly get out of hand.

    Snails help will algae up until a point. After that, they create large amounts of waste that take away from other livestock and can even damage plants if they weigh too much. The problem is that snail eggs are hard to find and you’re left with catching and destroying hundreds of baby snails, which definitely doesn’t feel great to do. This is why we recommend removing the eggs before they get to that point.

    Here are the best ways to remove freshwater snail eggs before they get the chance to hatch.

    Manual Removal

    The best way to remove snail eggs from your aquarium is by manual removal. This is very easy to do especially if the eggs are on the side of the aquarium glass.

    Simply use a thin card or razor blade to separate the clutch from the glass. Then you may squish them or submerge them in vinegar.

    If the snail eggs are stuck onto the side of driftwood or a rock, then you may need to remove the affected piece. Both the driftwood and rock may be scrubbed or scraped of the eggs. The driftwood can also be boiled if need be.

    Biological Solutions

    Clown Loach in Aquarium

    Luckily, snail eggs are high in protein and are the preferred diet for many freshwater fish and invertebrates. Unfortunately, many of these egg-hungry species also enjoy eating adult and baby snails, which may cause some problems. As long as the snail is larger than the fish, there should be no problems for adult snails.

    Some of these fish include:

    There are a few problems with getting rid of aquarium snail eggs through biological solutions, however. The main problem is that more fish require more room.

    Most types of loach and Corydoras need to be kept in schools of six or more individuals. This is a large long-term addition to the aquarium for a temporary problem. If space is available and the setup is right, then these fish will happily live even when the natural supply of snail eggs has run out.

    The other problem with using a biological solution to treating snail eggs is that not all snails lay their eggs in the same areas of the tank. Loaches and Corydoras live on the bottom of the tank but your snail may choose to lay its eggs towards the top of the tank or out of the water completely.

    Though these fish will surely take care of any eggs or baby snails near the bottom of the tank, it is up to the hobbyist to remove the eggs that are out of reach.

    Remember that the assassin snail is also a good predatory species to control a large snail population.

    Prevention

    Of course, the best way to get snail eggs out of your aquarium is by never introducing them in the first place! This is easier said than done, though it is possible.

    When picking out your clean-up crew, choose snails that use their time to eat algae and not to lay eggs. One of the best options of freshwater snail is the nerite snail as it checks both these boxes.

    Observe and treat new live plants for aquarium snail eggs and baby snails. Some hobbyists choose to quarantine their plants just as they would for new fish or invertebrates. This can be a lengthy process but is definitely the most effective way at preventing unwanted pests from entering the aquarium.

    Otherwise, thoroughly go over the stems and leaves of the plants for transparent egg clutches. There are several dip options that can also be effective:

    • A dip of 2-3 mL 3% hydrogen peroxide to 1 gallon of water
    • A dip of 1:19 ratio of bleach to water
    • A dip of potassium permanganate that has reached a dark pink or purple color when mixed with water

    These dips can be effective for removing not only unwanted snails, but also various types of bacteria, fungus, and parasites.

    If you do not use any methods to prevent snails from coming into your aquarium, they will find their way in time.

    Another great way to prevent snails is to best pest free plants. These plants are going to be tissue cultures and will be sold by specially retailers. Not all types of plants are available as tissue cultured though.

    Final Thoughts

    Snails are a necessary part of the freshwater aquarium ecosystem, but snail eggs are not. Many species of freshwater snail reproduce too quickly in the home aquarium, leaving tanks to be overrun. Luckily, there are a few types of snail that have slow reproduction rates or that can’t successfully reproduce in freshwater entirely.

    If freshwater snail eggs do happen to enter the aquarium, then some consistent manual removal or biological intervention may help solve the problem.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide โ€” your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.