Tag: Fish Tanks

Black brush algae. BBA. is the algae I hate dealing with most. Unlike green algae that you can wipe off glass, BBA latches onto plants, hardscape, and equipment and doesn’t let go. In 25 years of keeping tanks, I’ve learned that BBA almost always signals a CO2 or flow problem. Inconsistent CO2 injection is probably the number one cause in planted tanks. when CO2 fluctuates, BBA moves in fast. Low or dead-zone flow is another common culprit. The good news is that once you identify the root cause and address it, BBA growth stops and existing patches can be treated with Excel or a diluted bleach dip. This article walks through exactly how to do that.

What Is It?

Audouinella, also known as the black beard or black brush algae (BBA), are stubborn algae species from the red algae family. An infestation of this common fish tank villain looks just like a black or dark green scruffy beard, so it’s pretty obvious where its common name comes from. BBA is quite similar to Staghorn algae in appearance but grows in a denser, darker tuft.

Black beard algae is a natural component of fresh and saltwater environments, so it is not harmful in itself. It doesn’t look great, however, and it can affect plants by blocking out their access to light.

This form of red algae starts out as tiny dark tufts but grows quickly if it isn’t checked early. It attaches itself to plants, rocks, driftwood, aquarium decorations, and even gravel substrate. In other words, this stuff grows almost anywhere!

What Causes BBA?

Black beard algae are usually introduced to your fish tank from other aquariums. This could be on contaminated plants, or pretty much any object from another tank.

Black beard algae reproduce by spores. The algae spores are tiny, so it is easy to spread them in the water that new fish and livestock are delivered in.

There are certain conditions that allow these algae to get out of control, however. Here’s a quick summary of the most common causes of serious black beard algae growth:

• Fluctuating CO2 levels
• Unhealthy Plants
• Too much light
• Excess fish waste and leftover food
• Elevated nitrate and phosphate levels
• Poor filtration and inadequate water circulation

How To Control Black Algae In Fish Tanks

Now that you know more about what black beard algae is, you’re probably itching to know how to get rid of it. Rest assured, that’s what this article is all about, so let’s take a deep dive into some of the best treatment methods!

Biological Control (The Clean-Up Crew)

This is my favorite method of black beard algae control, even if it isn’t the most effective. Why is it my favorite? Because I love algae eaters!

Unfortunately, most animals do not eat black beard algae as their main food source. That means that biological control can be very helpful in the long run, but probably won’t bring fast results.

BBA isn’t the ideal food source for most common aquarium animals, especially if they have access to better food sources like prepared fish food. There are a few species that do eat this type of algae, however, so let’s meet them now!

• Siamese algae eater – Crossocheilus langei

The Siamese algae eater (video source) is probably the most popular choice of fish for controlling black beard algae. Siamese algae eaters grow to about 6 inches in length, so they are a good choice for freshwater aquariums of at least 30 gallons or larger.

• Panda garra – Garra flavatra

Panda garra fish are a great little species that reach a size of about 3.5 inches. These bottom feeding fish are reported to feed on black algae from time to time. They prefer tanks with good water flow and at least 20 gallons of water volume.

• Florida flagfish – Jordanella floridae

The Florida flag fish is a colorful fish species that looks great in tanks of 15 gallons or more. These omnivorous fish feed on a wide range of food sources, including pesky brush algae!

While they won’t completely get rid of black beard algae from your tank, they can do a great job of stopping this algae’s growth.

• Hillstream loach – Sewellia lineolata

The hillstream loach is another awesome algae eater that might help keep black brush algae growth under control. These fascinating algae-eating fish need well-oxygenated, flowing water in tanks that hold 20 gallons or more.

• Molly fish – Poecilia sphenops/ latipinna

It’s a bit of an open secret, but good old mollies can also be great for controlling black beard algae!

It might not be their first choice, however, so don’t be surprised to see them completely ignore the stuff if you feed them a lot of prepared foods like flakes.

Invertebrates:

• Amano shrimp – Caridina japonica

Fish like the Siamese algae eater aren’t the only animals that can be useful to get rid of black beard algae growth.

Amano shrimps are great little algae-eating inverts that can be kept in tanks as small as 5 gallons. Amano shrimp are especially great for planted tanks!

• Ramshorn snails – Planorbarius duryi

Ramshorn snails are probably the ultimate low-maintenance algae eaters. Unfortunately, these notorious invertebrates tend to find their way into aquariums on live plants and breed out of control. That being said, they are great for cleaning up scraps and generally improving the health of your aquarium.

Care

There’s one last thing to mention before we move on to the most effective methods to remove black beard algae.

Different algae eaters have different care needs, so please make sure your freshwater tank and water parameters will create a healthy environment before bringing any of these species home.

Physical Removal

Sometimes the most obvious solutions are the best solutions. Unfortunately, this is easier said than done when trying to get rid of black beard algae!

If the BBA in your tank is growing on a removable hardscape feature like a rock, or ornament like plastic plants or decorations, scrubbing with a stiff bristle brush or wire brush can be helpful.

Removing black beard algae is safer outside of the tank so that the fragments do not collect in the aquarium water. For any removal in the tank, it is always best to switch off your filter and powerheads to avoid distributing fragments.

If your BBA is growing on aquatic plants, physical removal will be a little more brutal. This stuff is tough, so a quick wipe-down is not going to be much help. Badly affected leaves will need to be removed. Remember to remove these leaves and plant matter from your aquarium.

Black beard algae reproduce by spores, so you’ll probably never remove them all. Physical removal is a great first step toward eradication, but you’ll probably want to proceed directly towards the next treatment methods to finish the job.

Chemical Treatments

Black beard algae often respond very well to chemical treatments. Of course, safety is very important when using chemicals, especially if you keep live plants and animals in your aquarium. Read on to learn two trusted methods!

How To Get Rid of It With Hydrogen Peroxide

Hydrogen peroxide (H2O2) is a compound of hydrogen and oxygen that can be very effective for getting rid of stubborn black beard algae in your aquarium. It is a liquid that is usually available from local drug stores and chemists at a very low cost.

Let’s take a look at some of the ways to use this chemical to treat black beard algae.

Hydrogen peroxide bath

Preparing an H2O2 bath is a great option for plants, ornaments, and hardscape features that you can remove from your tank. You will know you have been successful when the black beard algae begin to turn grey or pinkish.

Dosing hydrogen peroxide

One good method to rid your aquarium of black beard algae is to simply add hydrogen peroxide to the water column. Start by turning off your filter, and your aquarium lighting.

Next, you’ll want to measure out 3 teaspoons of 3% hydrogen peroxide for every ten gallons of water in your aquarium. Add this to the tank and allow it to soak for about an hour before switching the lights and filter back on.

Spot Treatments

You can also apply the hydrogen peroxide directly where you need it using a syringe or a pipette. You can do this under the water, just remember to switch off your filter and lighting.

You can also use this method after draining the tank enough to expose the algae to air, or after removing the affected plant or object from the tank. A small paintbrush can be very useful for applying the hydrogen peroxide, but you can also use a syringe or an eyedropper.

If you are using this method on aquatic plants outside of the water, make sure you rinse the hydrogen peroxide off after 5 minutes at most.

How To Get Rid of It With Liquid Carbon

Liquid carbon is another great chemical treatment for black beard algae. One of the most popular products on the market is Flourish Excel, but there are other products with the same active ingredients too.

Liquid carbon can be used with the same techniques as described for hydrogen peroxide. It is not sensitive to light like H2O2, but you’ll still want to turn off your filter.

Many aquarists have had success by going above the recommended dose (overdosing), but this can be very risky for your livestock. If you do choose to go this route, keep a close eye on your pets and be ready to move them or perform a large water change to dilute the concentration.

Spot treatments are generally a safer and more effective method because they allow you to maximize the effect of the liquid carbon where you need it most. If you have a lot of black beard algae in your aquarium, try spot dosing small areas every week, rather than blasting the whole tank at once.

Using Natural Treatments

Another new product to the market is Green Water Labs Algae Control. This product is all natural and safe to use in planted aquariums. It is designed to be used for those using fertilizers and experiencing algae issues such as black beard algae. This formula is also safe to use with snails and shrimp. It has a very straight forward dosing schedule. I would recommend it if you feel uncomfortable going to the CO2 supplement route.

Safety Tips

After reading about these (relatively) safe chemical methods of remove black beard algae, it’s worth taking note of the following safety information:

• Remember, black beard algae is mostly a cosmetic issue, so don’t go overboard on treatment at first, you can always try again in a few days!
• Liquid carbon products are not designed for use as algaecides. They can be effective, but using them this way is very much at your own risk.
• Some live plants do not respond well to liquid carbon. Anacharis, Vallisneria, and Japanese moss balls are all sensitive plants that can be negatively affected under high concentrations.
• Liquid carbon is harmful to fish and animals in high concentrations.
• Liquid carbon is toxic to humans and pets, so take precautions when using these products.

Heat Treatment for It in Aquariums

Heat treatment can be a very effective method to remove black beard algae. It does not involve any chemicals, and it’s pretty much free, but there is an obvious downside to this technique.

Heat will also kill your live plants and animals, so it is only really an option for hardscapes and decorations that can be removed from your aquarium. Alternatively, you could also move your plants and animals into another tank temporarily during the process.

You do not need to boil the water, although this will be effective on rocks and driftwood. Plastic ornaments and decorations can melt, however, so use caution.

How To Prevent

Prevention is always better than cure, so it’s really important to avoid this problem from the start. If you’ve already dealt with a black beard algae problem, you’ll also want to prevent it from coming back!

Read this section for a more in-depth look at how to avoid introducing black algae, as well as how to prevent it from growing out of control.

Avoid Introduction

Black beard algae are usually introduced to fish tanks from other aquariums and water sources. Aquatic plants are a very common culprit, so always take the time to inspect and treat new plants before introducing them to your tank.

Sometimes this is not enough, so I always suggest growing tissue culture plants that have been grown under sterile lab conditions. Online retailers like Buceplant stock a great range of these aquatic plants!

Try not to add any of the water your fish were packaged in by taking the time to slowly acclimate them to your tank water. Never dump a bag full of foreign water into your fish tank! You can totally prevent this way of introduction by properly quarantining your fish.

Maintain Good Water Quality

Black beard algae tend to thrive in poor water quality. High nitrate and phosphate levels in particular are thought to contribute to this problem.

Your first line of defense is regular aquarium maintenance. This means partial water changes at least twice a month and sucking up as much waste with your gravel vacuum as possible. Let’s take a closer look at how to maintain your aquarium to prevent black algae growth.

Your source water could also be a problem. The best way to remove that issue is to either purchase an RO/RODI filter or use distilled water. Whichever you chose, you will need to remineralizer the water with aquarium buffer.

Testing

There’s a lot more going on in our aquariums than meets the eye. Water chemistry is a huge part of maintaining a healthy tank, so you must be able to measure and monitor your water parameters.

A liquid test kit that can monitor phosphate and nitrate levels will be very important in your fight against black beard algae. Knowing what your levels are will help you figure out just how much water you need to change out, and how often you need to do it.

Removing water and waste particles

Decaying waste at the bottom of the tank releases nutrients that feed the brush algae in your aquarium.

Use a gravel vacuum to suck up this waste while you siphon old water out of the tank. Trimming your aquarium plants before a water change is great because you’ll be able to suck out any trimmings that are floating around in the tank.

Filter maintenance

Filter maintenance will not be necessary every time you perform aquarium maintenance.

It is best to follow the manufacturer’s instructions on maintenance regarding your specific model. If your filter sounds different or is not creating as much flow as it should, you might need to rinse out the filtration media.

Remember, the filtration media of a cycled aquarium is home to a thriving population of tiny beneficial bacteria that break down waste in your tank. These little guys should be treated with the care they deserve!

To avoid killing these bacteria, only rinse out your filter media in water that you have just removed from the tank. Tap water that has not been conditioned should not be used.

Adding new water

It’s usually a good idea to prepare new water before you perform a water change to speed up the process. This involves bringing the tap water up to the same temperature as your tank and treating it with a water conditioner to neutralize harmful chemicals.

As I mentioned before, your source water can become a contributor to black algae. Consider getting your city’s tap water report or purchase a TDS meter to see the condition of your water. If your water is high in phosphates and nitrates, it may make sense to switch to distilled or RO water.

Maintain Healthy Plant Growth

For the most part, brush algae do not grow on strong, healthy aquarium plants. The needs of different plants vary depending on their species, but all live plants need good lighting, access to nutrients, and CO2. Providing these in the right balance is the secret to vigorous plant growth.

Black beard algae can grow in a wide range of light conditions, so dimming the lights isn’t necessarily the best option. Providing the minimum amount of light needed to promote healthy plant growth is a good general rule for keeping algae at bay, however. Making sure your plants have sufficient good quality light is a better bet than trying to prevent brush algae growth with low light.

The estimative index (EI) method has proved to be very effective in minimizing this problem in aquarium plants. This method involves fertilizing plants liberally and then performing a large water change every week to ‘reset’ their levels.

This means live plants are never limited in their access to essential macro and micronutrients, but at the same time, you are taking care to prevent these nutrients from building up to dangerous levels.

Even healthy leaves die back when they reach the end of their lifespan, so stay on top of pruning and trimming your aquarium plants. This will promote healthy new regrowth and prevent plant matter from decaying in your fish tank.

Stable CO2 Levels

While increasing CO2 levels may be one of the best ways to achieve healthy plant growth, it is important to keep the levels consistent. Fluctuating CO2 levels appear to favor the growth and development of black beard algae.

Running a pressurized CO2 injection system with good circulation and a drop checker is the best way to avoid inconsistent levels. Calibrate your system to maintain CO2 levels between 20 and 30 ppm to maintain optimum plant growth and keep pesky brush algae to a minimum.

Increasing or stabilizing the carbon dioxide levels in your tank probably won’t kill off the existing brush algae, but it will certainly help to prevent it from growing back after successful treatment.

The combination of proper CO2 usage, fertilizers, and lots of plants will lead to lush plant growth that will choke out nuisance algae like BBA.

Avoid Overstocking and Overfeeding

Black beard algae thrive in high-nutrient environments. Apart from decaying plant matter, the major sources of these nutrients are fish waste and uneaten food.

This is a much bigger problem in tanks that have too many fish, and are given too much food. Increasing your filtration capacity and water change schedule can be very helpful, but it is best to keep your bioload down by stocking and feeding your tank conservatively.

Filtration and Circulation

Adequate filtration is really important for maintaining healthy fish tanks in general. They filter out waste particles and provide a cozy home for the beneficial bacteria that maintain the nitrogen cycle.

It is wise to invest in the best quality filtration your budget allows for, and don’t be shy to run more than one filter on your tank either. Adding some phosphate-absorbing media to your filter is a great way to reduce the phosphate levels in your tank.

We know that fluctuating carbon dioxide levels in the water promote black beard algae, so it makes sense to provide enough circulation to spread this gas evenly through the water column. You can run a small powerhead or wavemaker in your tank if your aquarium filtration system does not create enough water flow.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

In conclusion, black beard algae is a tough but manageable problem that most aquarium owners will face at one time or another. Don’t lose heart if you find this fuzzy growth in your tank, however. Simply follow the steps in this article to beat this nuisance algae in your aquarium and prevent it from coming back!

Have you managed to get rid of black algae in your tanks? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!

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🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Yes. bettas absolutely need a heater, and I say this as someone who’s kept bettas for over 25 years. I’ve seen the damage that temperature swings and cold water do to bettas that are kept without one. They’re tropical fish from Southeast Asia, and room temperature in most homes is simply too cold and too inconsistent. This guide explains exactly why and what to get.

Yes. bettas need a heater. This is one of those questions where the answer is clear but gets muddied by the way bettas are marketed and sold. The image of a betta thriving in a small unheated bowl is a pet industry myth that causes real harm. Bettas are tropical fish from Southeast Asia and need water temperature consistently between 76 and 82°F. In most homes, that means a heater is non-negotiable unless you live somewhere that stays warm year-round. The small preset heaters bundled with betta kits are often inadequate. I recommend a properly sized adjustable heater so you can dial in the exact temperature. This guide covers what to look for and how to set it up right.

The most popular, ornamental, tropical fish in the aquarium world is the Betta fish. Originating from Southeast Asia, Betta fish are commonly found in countries of Malaysia, Cambodia, and Thailand.

The Answer

The answer is pretty straightforward. Bettas thrive in a temperature range of no less than 72 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below or above this temperature range can turn your fish too lethargic or sluggish. Therefore, a heating system is imperative to keep your Betta fish happy.

Now that I’ve given you a quick review about whether Betta fish need a heater, let’s just jump to the basics and discuss further. I have a video above from our YouTube Channel that goes over the topic if you want to follow along. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we have new videos every week.

What are the requirements for a Betta Tank?

Betta fish are territorial and highly aggressive. They have problematic behaviors where the males can even fight one another to death. Females, however, are less aggressive.

If you’re planning to build a community tank, avoid keeping bright, colorful fish with your Betta as they will most likely be killed. Go for plain, simple fish for your Betta community tank.

Tank Size

If you’re planning to keep one fish per tank, it’s suggested to get a 5-gallon tank. Any type of tank would do as long as it’s 5 gallon. Be it a betta fish bowl, 3 gallon wine glass-shaped aquarium, or other shaped betta tanks. The key is to keep it at least 3 gallons.

However, if you plan to house more than one fish in your tank, you need a larger tank. For example, to house 5 bettas, the tank size would be 25 to 30 gallons.

Placement of the tank

The water temperature matters a lot when it comes to Betta fish, and so does the placement of the tank.

Betta fish belongs to the tropical areas that receive a lot of sunlight. However, they don’t do well in areas where the tank receives direct sunlight throughout the day. That’s because the rays of the Sun increase the water temperature to the point they go into temperature shock and begin to act erratic, which is unhealthy for Betta. The abnormal increase in water temperature makes Bettas disoriented and it starts swimming in absurd patterns or worst of all. stops swimming altogether.

The ideal place for your Betta fish tank would be inside, near a door or outside of direct sunlight.

Tip: Never place your Betta tank on a wall opposite mirrors. The male Bettas would think they have another male in the tank and act territorial and aggressive for no reason.

Tank Toys 

Betta fish loves a colorful environment. Thus, it’s shame to keep them in a tank full of water only.

I suggest putting an aquarium background on the back of your aquarium to provide your betta with a bright or dark background. One great toy to use with a Bettas are ping pongs. Check out the video below (video source). They can even be trained to play water basketball!

Also, your betta tank should entertain your fish. For this, you can place a few river rocks on top of each other to provide them with a fun hiding space. Betta plants and colored gravels would also add to the beauty of your fish tank. Indian almond leaves also work great.

Water Conditioner

Would you want your kids to drink tap water? Absolutely not!

Similarly, in most areas, the water from your taps won’t suit your betta to live. Because it has some chemicals like Chlorine, Ammonia, and Nitrates that are harmful to your fish. To cater to this problem, a water neutralizer is essential to make your water safe for the fish.

I suggest filling a container with water and leaving it overnight. Add a high-quality water conditioner like seachem prime to the water and add it to your fish tank.

How To Properly House a Betta Tank?

Bettas are tropical fish that originate from tropical climates of South-East Asia. Despite being hardy and low-maintenance pets, bettas need proper attention and care for a healthy lifestyle.

Water Temperature

I cannot emphasize enough the importance of maintaining water temperature for your bettas.

Bettas need water temperature that ranges between 72 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit. Anything below this range will cause your bettas to be lethargic and sluggish. And if the temperature exceeds or lowers too far from the range, you might wake up one day to die, floating betta. Therefore, it’s essential to install a heating system in your fish tank.

Filtration System

Installing a filtration system in your aquarium might not be essential, but a smart choice to keep the tank water clean.

Just make sure to provide a steady water flow in the tank as bettas prefer less water movement in the tank. I suggest going for filters designed for small tanks or adjusting the filters’ settings to restrict the water flow.

The best filters for a betta fish are ones with lower flow. This means sponge filters ideal. However, power filters can work if the flow can be lowered and if the intake can be covered with a sponge.

Canister filters are going to be more ideal in planted tanks. All-in-one tanks are also have adequate filters in their tanks.

Food

Bettas are carnivorous top-feeders that enjoy wholesome food. Due to their carnivorous nature, bettas require a healthy diet, rich in protein. However, like much other fish, they enjoy variety in their food.

You can feed your bettas pellet food and live food, including blood worms or brine shrimp. I suggest handling bloodworms with tweezers to avoid mosquito bites. The reason I suggest variety in betta fish food is constipation. Bettas can get easily constipated if given the same food every day. In such conditions, where constipation and other diseases such as swim bladder disease is involved. If you select high quality foods you can avoid this.

One staple to try is Fluval’s bug bites. It’s made of solider fly and has the roughage needed to keep bladder issues in check. Use multiple foods to balance our your Betta’s diet.

As mentioned earlier, live food is a good option. However, frozen food is the best choice for your bettas as they are free from parasites and are designed to meet the nutritional requirements of your bettas.

It’s essential to invest in high-quality frozen food to keep your bettas healthy and maintain their vibrancy.

Do Betta Fish Need A Heater

Yes, Betta fish need an aquarium heater to keep the water warm and temperature maintained.

Many novice aquarists believe the apparatus like an aquarium heater has advanced features, and so they are reluctant to invest in heaters. However, that’s not the case. Think of a heater as an oven. Just set the temperature to 76 – 82 degrees Fahrenheit on your heater, submerge it in water, and it into the wall. And you’re all set to go.

Now the question is that bugs betta breeders and keepers big time. If I live in a warm climate, why do I need a heater for the aquarium water?

Of course, you do.

No amount of warm water and climate can guarantee temperature fluctuations without the aid of a heater. Even in warm climates, the water temperature can go down during the night and abnormally increase during the day, causing temperature shock.

To keep your betta healthy, the best thing you can ever do is to minimize the chances of temperature shock by installing heaters to ensure the temperature will stay within the safe range. Therefore, it is imperative to get a tank large enough to accommodate a mini heater suitable for a 2-5 gallon tank.

However, the problem with mini heaters is their inability to take into consideration the actual temperature of the water inside the tank. Due to this, the tank water can get too warm or too cold, adversely affecting the health of your bettas. To administer this problem, small adjustable heaters do a great job of considering the actual water temperature.

To keep your heaters working properly is also advisable to use a thermometer which makes sure the heater is working perfectly. You can get a variety of thin, small, and cheap thermometers to insert on the side of your aquarium to display the tank temperature.

Also, to avoid temperature fluctuations, it is important to make sure the room temperature is not different from the tank temperature. Thus, cover your aquarium with a lid or glass cover to lower the rate of water evaporation and ensure that the air above the tank remains warm and moist.

There are two main reasons to maintain the water temperature for your betta tanks.

1. Betta’s immune system becomes highly compromised as it gets too stressed out due to temperature fluctuations. This opens room for bacterial infections and other diseases to enter the Betta’s body
2. Bettas are accustomed to living in a tank with water temperatures ranging between 72 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. If the temperature goes too low or high, it affects the betta’s immune system and energy levels. Your betta, at its worst, can become unresponsive and lethargic, and eventually might die.

What’s A Good Product?

There is a myriad of brands in the market, selling various types of heaters. And this might confuse the betta owners.

Therefore, I’ll list the three best heaters for betta’s tank.

First of all, remember that the unit of measurement for aquarium heaters is always in watts. So, a great rule of thumb while deciding on a heater is 5 watts per gallon of water. Also, make sure the heater is installed properly to avoid inconvenience.

If, after research, you’re still not sure which one to buy, I suggest visiting the store and asking the manager to help you choose the right one.

Types of Heating Systems

Based on requirements, there are two types of heating systems.

1. Internal heating systems
2. External heating systems

To understand which one works the best for your tank, I recommend asking your local pet store or betta breeders to give you recommendations.

Note: Proper water circulation is necessary to keep the water temperature maintained. Without proper circulation, your tank water will have cold or hot spots, which are harmful to your bettas.

Internal Heating Systems

The most common type of heat source in a betta tank is internal heating systems. These heaters consist of a glass tube, ranging from 4 inches to 12 inches in length. Some practical heaters have a built-in thermostat and some have a thermostat attached outside the tank to control multiple heating systems.

External Heating Systems

External heating systems are commonly available offline and online. There are various models, including the one that fits under the tank and heats the water from below, while others just connect to the filtering systems.

Here are three of my best-recommended heaters for your Betta tanks.

1. Finnext STE

A very reliable heater that solves most of your tank problems. This is a fully-submersible heater, allowing you to install it right where you need it.

The corrosion-resistant Titanium body will not rot or corrode even after years of use. it’s cheaper than the BRS Titanium element and reasonable to keep if you plan on keep more expensive betta breeds.

2. Eheim Jager

This German-made, exceptional aquarium heater stands the test of time with its simple and safe temperature recalibration, temperature control accuracy, and precise temperature adjustment for up to 93.2 degrees Fahrenheit.

The only downside to this heater is its big, bulky, old-school lab-grade glass design.

3. Helio

An amazing heater for your Betta aquarium with cutting-edge PTC technology. However, they come in smaller wattage sizes. Therefore, for a large tank, you need multiple units. It’s also very expensive. It’s best for tanks where your Betta will be in a prized aquascape.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Bettas are popular among many aquarists in the aquarium trade. They are hardy, low-maintenance, and easy to keep. However, a few things about Bettas should be taken into consideration, including, the amount of fish you’re going to keep, the size of your rank, tank toys to fend off boredom, and most importantly, keeping the water warm with the help of a heater.

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

Ammonia spikes have ended more fishkeeping journeys than almost anything else, and I’ve fielded countless questions about it over the years. Early in my own hobby days I lost fish to ammonia before I understood the nitrogen cycle. it’s a hard lesson. The good news is that once you know what drives ammonia up and how to bring it down fast, it becomes a manageable problem rather than a mystery.

Ammonia is the number one killer in home aquariums. particularly in new tanks that haven’t finished cycling. I’ve seen it wipe out entire stocks of fish in tanks that looked perfectly fine to the eye. The tricky thing about ammonia is that you can’t see it or smell it at aquarium concentrations, so regular testing is the only way to catch it before damage is done. When I get ammonia readings in a tank, my first move is always Seachem Prime to detoxify it temporarily, followed by a water change and a hard look at what’s driving it. overfeeding, overstocking, an uncycled tank, or a dead animal decomposing somewhere. This guide covers 6 practical ways to bring ammonia down and keep it there.

The Nitrogen Cycle

The first rule to having a fish tank is allowing it to cycle. But what does it mean for a fish tank to cycle and why does it matter so much?

Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists skip fundamental steps in understanding the aquarium nitrogen cycle; they’re told to come back to their local pet store for water testing in a couple of weeks when they’ll be given the thumbs up to add their first fish to the aquarium even if the fish tank isn’t fully cycled. Too many times, this results in suffering and dead fish as well as disappointed hobbyists.

What Is The Nitrogen Cycle?

There is a great video that really explains the nitrogen cycle in a fun and entertaining way by Girl Talks Fish below that I’ll embed for you. I’ll go more into my boring details below

The nitrogen cycle is very easy to understand but requires some patience.

In simple terms, the nitrogen cycle prepares your aquarium for dealing with fish waste and other organics in the water through processes completed by beneficial bacteria. These beneficial bacteria need to grow and populate the aquarium over the course of several weeks until there are enough to convert toxic ammonia to nitrite to less toxic nitrate.

In more biological and chemical terms, this looks a little more complex. Ammonia (NH3) and ammonium (NH4) are converted to (NO2) by nitrifying bacteria. Different nitrifying bacteria then convert this nitrite into nitrate (NO3).

In the aquarium setting, the nitrogen cycle will always start with ammonia. If more ammonia enters the system than your population of beneficial bacteria can handle, then your aquarium will go through a cycle or a mini-cycle.

Before we dive into how ammonia enters the fish tank, we need to understand why we need to avoid excess levels at all costs.

It’s important to keep in mind that ammonia is present in the aquarium at all times due to leftover food and fish waste being processed. However, levels can quickly become dangerous whenever they’re not close to 0 ppm.

If large amounts of ammonia are present in the aquarium, ammonia poisoning can set in almost immediately. If low amounts of ammonia are present in the fish tank over a longer period of time, then it’s still possible for your fish to experience chronic ammonia poisoning.

The problem is that high amounts of ammonia will translate into high amounts of nitrite, another deadly compound at high levels. At this point, fish may experience nitrite poisoning.

Nitrite is very similar to oxygen in its chemical structure. Therefore, it is able to enter the bloodstream and connect to hemoglobin where oxygen would otherwise. This quite literally makes the fish suffocate from the inside out, making for a very painful death.

Similarly, nitrite poisoning will either be immediate or witnessed over the course of a few days depending on water quality. Symptoms are also very similar, which means it’s necessary to test water parameters for a sure diagnosis.

Ammonia In The Aquarium

For an established fish tank, ammonia is a bad thing to have. It can quickly cause ammonia poisoning, killing fish and invertebrates by burning internal and external organs. When cycling a fish tank, ammonia becomes the food needed for bacteria to grow and populate. We have a video below form our YouTube channel for reference. We go over more details in the blog. Be sure to subscribe if you like our videos!

There are many different ways to purposely or mistakingly introduce ammonia into the aquarium:

1. New fish tank
2. New livestock additions
3. Dead organic matter
4. Overfeeding
5. Overstocking

1. New Aquarium

When starting up an aquarium, you may experience a phenomenon known as new tank syndrome. This is the build-up of harmful nutrients and compounds in the aquarium that can kill fish and deter bacterial growth in extreme cases. The reason for the new tank syndrome is that the aquarium hasn’t had time to establish a healthy population of beneficial bacteria.

As mentioned before, beneficial bacteria make the conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate possible. If this cycle isn’t allowed to be fully completed, then bacteria will struggle to detoxify these compounds, making for unsafe water conditions.

However, even if your aquarium is fully cycled, there’s still a chance that it experiences new tank syndrome. This could be due to a weak cycle or overstocking the aquarium too quickly. Both of these circumstances would lead to ammonia entering the aquarium too quickly, overloading the present bacteria populations.

As a result, a mini-cyle is likely to occur where there are abnormal levels of ammonia and nitrite. This can be very dangerous as it can lead to ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning.

2. New Livestock Additions

Any time a new fish or invertebrate is introduced into the aquarium, ammonia levels will rise. Depending on the stability of the system, this increase in ammonia shouldn’t be seen in tests as beneficial bacteria will quickly adapt to the new influx.

The problem happens when beginner hobbyists are eager to stock their new fish tank to the brim as soon as the nitrogen cycle is completed.

New livestock additions should be spaced out over the course of weeks or months to give beneficial bacteria populations enough time to adapt to the increased ammonia levels. Adding too much at once is a sure way to cause a mini-cycle, greatly increasing the chances of losing all of your new livestock!

3. Dead Organic Matter

Things die in the aquarium all the time: fish, snails, crabs, and aquarium plants. It’s bound to happen, but it might take some time to notice or you might not be able to reach what’s left before it starts to decompose.

As decaying organic matter starts to decompose, ammonia is created. While most fish tanks are able to handle these small amounts of ammonia entering the system, it’s always recommended to remove what you can to prevent an ammonia spike from happening.

However, sometimes you just don’t notice that one of your fish or invertebrates is missing and the breakdown process has already started. Or, the carcass may be so far in the back of the fish tank that you just can’t reach it no matter how hard you try.

Leaving the dead matter in the fish tank will raise ammonia levels, though not terribly if the system is stable. This is also why a cleanup crew, like saltwater hermit crabs or shrimp, are especially helpful to take care of dead fish and invertebrates before they start to decompose.

4. Overfeeding

Overfeeding is one of the most common reasons for an ammonia spike in a new fish tank. Fish do not need as much food as we think they do and they often end up overfed.

Fish food is naturally high in unwanted organics, like phosphate, which can quickly cause algae in the aquarium. However, as uneaten fish food is left to rot at the bottom of the tank, it will also start to release ammonia just like other decaying organic matter. Not to mention that overfeeding will result in much more fish waste entering the water as well, also increasing ammonia levels.

In general, fish should only be fed as much as they can eat in a couple of minutes. All uneaten fish food should be removed after.

5. Overstocking

New livestock additions can overwhelm a biological filter; by the biological filter, we mean the beneficial bacteria that live in the filtration system and other surface areas of the fish tank that make the nitrogen cycle possible. This is why overstocking a tank can be so dangerous.

Beneficial bacteria can only handle a certain amount of ammonia and nitrite. If levels exceed this rate, then both ammonia and nitrite levels will accumulate. This can easily become the situation if too many fish are put into the aquarium.

This is also the reason why goldfish need such a large aquarium. These fish are incredibly messy; they are messy eaters and leave a lot of uneaten food, which then results in a lot of fish waste. Because of this, a large filtration system is needed to allow for the most surface area for beneficial bacteria to grow.

6 Ways To Lower It In Aquariums

High ammonia levels in the fish tank should be considered an emergency. The longer your fish and invertebrates are exposed to ammonia, the better the chances of them dying. You need to act fast without making too many changes at once.

Of course, the best way to remove ammonia from the aquarium is by preventing it in the first place.

1. Make sure your fish tank is completely cycled. Test water parameters frequently and only add fish when there are no signs of ammonia or nitrite.
2. Add fish slowly. Do not overload the system and allow beneficial bacteria populations to grow over time as more and more fish are added.
3. Do not overstock. Understand the ratio of ammonia being produced to aquarium water volume. Beneficial bacteria can only concert so much ammonia at one given time.
4. Do not overfeed. Though we love to give our fish and invertebrates the best life possible, too much fish waste and uneaten food can lead to a deadly ammonia spike. Remove excess food.
5. Perform regular fish tank maintenance.

Otherwise, there are ways to remove ammonia from the fish tank through water changes, increased biological filtration, bacteria supplements, and chemical media.

1. Water Changes

The best way to quickly get rid of ammonia from a fish tank is by doing a succession of water changes over the course of a few days. Though this won’t solve the underlying problem causing ammonia to be high, water changes will help keep ammonia levels lower and safer for fish.

If you find ammonia in your fish tank, don’t panic. Instead, set up a plan over the next few days to do water changes. You don’t want to change out all the water at once as this can create instability in the fish tank and changing parameters that stress out your fish even more.

Instead, start with a 50% water change. If using tap water, make sure that there is no ammonia in the water as this will only increase the ammonia level. For extra precaution, use a water conditioner that detoxifies ammonia and other harmful compounds, like SeaChem Prime.

Continue to do 25-50% water changes over the next few days until the ammonia level reaches 0 ppm. At that point, you will need to identify the cause of the ammonia spike, be it a mini-cyle, a dead fish, or too much uneaten food, and treat accordingly.

2. Increased Biological Filtration

If it isn’t an emergency, then the best way to remove ammonia from a fish tank naturally is to allow beneficial bacteria to do their thing. This is known as biological filtration, which can be increased by increasing the surface area in the aquarium; this is different from chemical or mechanical filtration.

Specific biological filtration media has also been created to facilitate bacterial growth and lower ammonia levels. This works by creating porous media, similar to live rock, that creates more surface area.

The majority of beneficial bacteria live in the filtration systems of our fish tanks. However, they also live in the nooks and crannies of live rock and other aquarium decorations.

Some of these products include:

• SeaChem Matrix. This product grows aerobic and anaerobic bacteria to control ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. One liter provides >~700 m2 surface area and can be used in freshwater and saltwater setups.
• Biohome Ultimate. Meant for saltwater and freshwater hang on the back, canister, and sump filtration systems, Biohome Ultimate media influences both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria growth with added trace elements, like iron and manganese.
• MarinePure. MarinePure is meant specifically for direct use in saltwater fish tanks to reduce ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels. It can be used under the substrate or in areas of high flow, including the filtration system.

Biological filtration media is a great and minimally invasive addition for buffering surface area in a hang on the back, canister, or sump filtration system. Still, this media will take some time to populate by bacteria and will not immediately lower ammonia levels.

3. Add Beneficial Rock (AKA Live or Dry Rock)

Porous rock is a great way to add biological capacity to your aquarium. I’ll cover both the saltwater and freshwater side below.

Adding Live/Dry Rock To The Saltwater Aquarium

Live rock is the foundation for any saltwater fish tank setup. Not only does it provide food and shelter for fish and invertebrates, but it houses a plethora of bacterial life that is essential for facilitating the nitrogen cycle.

One way to jumpstart a nitrogen cycle in a saltwater fish tank is to add live rock. There are two reasons for this.

One, live rock will already have beneficial bacteria present on it when added to your tank. This means that you’ll start with a population that can seed the rest of the fish tank. The other reason is that there is bound to be some die-off when transferring the live rock between fish tanks. This die-off will contribute to ammonia levels, starting and supporting a nitrogen cycle.

But how does live rock help with lowering ammonia levels?

In the same way, adding live rock to an established aquarium can introduce more beneficial bacteria that will start to process ammonia and nitrite. There may still be some die-off, but the already established bacteria should be able to handle the sudden influx; if concerned about die-off, quarantine the rocks in a separate system with the same parameters.

As a result, the beneficial bacteria population is immediately expanded, increasing conversion rates and lowering ammonia levels.

Live rock can be expensive though, and there’s always the possibility of unintentionally adding hitchhikers at the same time. Luckily, dry rock is widely available and very easy to add to the saltwater fish tank. For quality dry rock, check out Real Reef Rock. Be careful of going 100% dry rock as this can result in an outbreak of dinos in your tank.

The idea behind adding dry rock instead of live rock is to increase surface area. Though this dry rock won’t come with established bacteria, it gives more space for the already-existing bacteria to populate. This will take more time to lower ammonia levels than would live rock but can be a great way to increase biological filtration on a budget.

Adding Porous Dry Rock To The Freshwater Aquarium

In the same way, dry rock, like lava rock, can be added to the freshwater fish tank to get rid of ammonia. However, it’s not common to see live lava rock for sale at your freshwater aquarium store; for this, you may need to reach out to fellow hobbyists or a specialty fish store.

There is some discussion about the efficacy of lava rock being good for lowering ammonia levels in the aquarium. It’s a porous rock, but some hobbyists have seen little to no effect and worry about what the rock might be made from. Lava rock can also be sharp, which can easily injure fish and invertebrates.

Adding live or dry lava rock will either help seed a fish tank with more beneficial bacteria or provide more space for bacteria to grow, ultimately lowering ammonia levels. How effective and safe this rock is to use is up for question, though.

If you want a completely safe and effective way for controlling ammonia levels in your freshwater fish tank, then a more effective method is to add live plants.

Freshwater Aquaraium Plants

Live aquarium plants are biological filters in themselves. Plants use many nutrients and compounds in their physiological processes, including harmful ammonia and nitrite. They will also help take up some nitrate, which can reduce the need for frequent water changes.

Freshwater aquarium plants require macronutrients: nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Nitrogen may be taken up in the form of ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate. Because of this, as well as for the exchange of aesthetic and fish tank oxygenation, many hobbyists use plants to improve water quality and to lower the ammonia level.

So much so that more experienced hobbyists even use freshwater aquatic plants to undergo a fish-safe nitrogen cycle, called a ghost cycle. A ghost cycle is when the fish tank undergoes the nitrogen cycle with little to no observation of changing parameters. This can make ammonia not show up on an ammonia test kit even if it is present in the aquarium.

A ghost cycle can be pretty difficult to accomplish; there is a constant balance between adding more ammonia to sustain the plants while understanding how many plants are needed to reduce ammonia levels.

4. Upgrading Your Filtration System

Whether you’re changing from one fish tank to another or switching from a hang on the back filter to a full sump system, upgrading your filtration system can help your tank handle ammonia levels. Remember, the increased surface area will allow more space for bacteria, thus increasing ammonia to nitrite to nitrate conversion.

Not only does a larger filtration system give more space for bacteria, but it also allows for additional equipment that can further help balance water quality. More refined equipment, such as refugiums and protein skimmers, may be added to help uptake nutrients. Extra space can also be used for more biological filtration to increase surface area even more. For freshwater tanks, you can look into a high quality canister filter.

When upgrading a fish tank, be sure to hang on to any filtration media used, especially biological filtration. Like live rock, aquarium filter media holds a plethora of bacteria that can be used to almost immediately cycle a new aquarium. There is still a chance that a mini-cycle occurs, but with slow stocking and water quality monitoring, it is rare to see high ammonia levels, if at all.

5. Bacteria Supplements

Bacteria supplements are very useful for hobbyists struggling with water parameters or that need to quickly cycle an aquarium. While they’re great at what they do, they should not be mistaken for the answer in a bottle to all your tropical fish tank’s problems.

Bacteria supplements are one way of introducing the necessary bacteria into the aquarium to convert ammonia to nitrate. They have been used to facilitate the nitrogen cycle in new tanks and can help stabilize systems with too much ammonia; bacteria supplements should never be seen as an ammonia remover.

Though bacteria supplements might seem like the answer to your problem, they don’t treat the underlying cause of a high ammonia level. This is why experienced hobbyists strongly recommend beginners go through the full stages of the aquarium cycle to understand how ammonia moves through the aquarium.

If struggling with elevated ammonia levels, some recommended bacteria supplements are:

• FritzZyme TurboStart. This freshwater bacteria supplement is designed to immediately reduce ammonia and nitrite levels to prevent fish death. It can be used to jumpstart an aquarium cycle or to save a fish tank suffering an ammonia spike. As the bacteria in this supplement are living, their shelf life is limited to four months.
• Instant Ocean Bio-Spira. A saltwater bacteria supplement, Bio-Spira contains nitrococcus, nitrosomonas, nitrosospira, and nitrospira bacteria to reduce ammonia and nitrite levels. Bio-Spira is shelf-stable but should be used almost immediately.

6. Chemical Media

Lastly, chemical media may be used to help reduce ammonia levels in saltwater or freshwater aquarium. However, this should be the last option for beginner hobbyists as, again, chemical media will not solve the reason for the high ammonia level.

Chemical media can be a simple and inexpensive method for quickly removing ammonia from a fish tank though in case of an emergency. Simply place the media in an area of high water flow and replace it as directed.

Here are some of the best chemical media products available to quickly reduce ammonia levels:

• Zeolite. Zeolite, specifically from Marineland, removes ammonia as well as other toxins in the aquarium water, including chloramine. It is best used in freshwater aquariums and will last about a month.
• SeaChem Purigen. Purigen polishes water of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate for the freshwater and saltwater fish tank. It changes color when depleted, but can easily be recharged.
• Fluval Ammonia Remover. This product specifically targets and reduces ammonia through natural ion exchange. Fluval Ammonia Remover is designed to work best in freshwater aquariums.

Final Thoughts

Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists experience an ammonia spike in their aquariums due to impatience and poor understanding of the nitrogen cycle. The growth of beneficial bacteria and conversion of ammonia to nitrite to nitrate can take a long time and we get the hurry!

However, it’s better to end up with a stinky, empty fish tank than to come home to a bunch of dead fish. Allow your aquarium to fully cycle but know how to lower your ammonia level in case of an emergency.

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🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

References

• Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
• FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
• Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice

Fish compatibility is one of the first things I look at when helping someone stock a new tank. and it’s where a lot of beginners go wrong by trusting the fish store without checking the numbers. After 25 years of keeping community tanks and fielding compatibility questions from my YouTube audience, I’ve developed a clear sense of which fish coexist peacefully and which create problems. This compatibility chart covers the most popular freshwater fish and gives you a quick reference for building a balanced, peaceful community tank.

What Are They?

A compatibility chart is used in the fish-keeping hobby as a reference to see what fish can get along with each other. Each fish type is placed on the chart and referenced against another fish species. You look at the two species on the chart that are cross-referenced to see if the fish are compatible with each other.

Some charts are more detailed than others. A general chart is good for looking at general compatibility. There are also species-specific charts like African Cichlid compatibility charts that will go through all the various types of cichlids and determine which types get along with each other.

Below are a few charts to help you make informed decisions based on the type of aquarium you are keeping.

Freshwater Compatibility Chart

Below is a general guideline on freshwater aquarium fish and their compatibility with each other. Keep in mind that compatibility can vary based on the temperament of the fish. There are also some extreme varieties in fish species that are outside of their norm. A good example are Buenos Aires Tetras, which are known for eating live plants. Always do extra research before making a purchase.

Saltwater

Below is a list of major marine fish species and their compatibility with each other and corals. Keep in mind with marine fish, there can be vast differences in personality. A yellow tang can be very peaceful while another can be very aggressive fish and a terror. Personalities vary more in saltwater fish – especially when it comes to determine whether they are reef safe fish.

Factors That Determine If Fish Will Get Along

While the chart supplied below is a good general guideline, every fish is different and many charts do not go into great detail about specific species within the fish breed. Let’s talk about these other factors. These especially are important to consider if the fish you are looking to house are labeled as a “c” on the chart.

Fish Temperament

Fish within the species you want may have varying temperaments. A good example are Tiger Barbs. These Barb Fish are considered semi-aggressive fish while Cherry barbs are considered peaceful and will get along with many peaceful fish.

There is individual fish temperament to take into account as well. Some fish within the same species will be more aggressive than others. You will often see this with male and female species. The males will typically be more aggressive. Another factor to consider is if the fish is breeding. Many cichlids will get more aggressive and territorial if they are breeding.

Activity Levels

Some fish are more laid back than others while others are very active. Good examples would be discus fish and dither fish like danios. Sometimes mixing a calm fish with a hyper active fish can be problematic as the more peaceful fish will have trouble competing for food. Other times more active fish can help more timid fish relax.

Water Temperatures

Some fish are cold water fish – like goldfish while others like Betta fish prefer the higher end of tropical water temperatures (76-78 degrees). Others like Discus fish do better in warmer waters above 78, which would be harmful to other fish. Most fish compatibility charts will not cover water temperature differences, so do your research on the fish’s individual needs. Check out my freshwater fish profiles as I have many popular species documented on my site.

Position In Tank

Every fish occupies different areas of the tank. This is most pronounced with bottom feeders who will only stay near the substrate. Too many bottom feeders in the tank could result in aggression issues. Balance out the spacing of all fish in all areas – bottom, mid-level, and surface swimmers. You can create a friendly freshwater fish community tank if you keep in mind these three levels.

Size

Size of the fish can be a major factor in compatibility. Some fish have large mouths. While they may not be aggressive, their mouths may be big enough to shallow smaller fish. In general, they to avoid adding fish that can fit in the mouth of the existing fish you already have.

Water Chemistry

Water chemistry like pH and hardness can create issues with compatibility. African cichlids require hard water and higher pH while many tropical fish prefer softer and lower pH water. Some compatibility charts will not address this. There are also species with the classes of fish listed on the chart that could have major differences. A good example would be certain Discus species that prefer low pH in the 5 range.

Territorial Behaviors

Some fish, particularly Cichlids, are territorial¹. They will stake a claim on a space and become more aggressive if there isn’t enough space or shelter in the tank. While two fish can be compatible on paper, the aggression caused by lack of space and shelter will cause problems.

To work through this, build up your aquascapes with shelter like live plants, aquarium driftwood, and/or aquarium rocks. A fully scaped out aquarium should curb many aggression issues.

When it comes to marine fish, nearly all fish on the saltwater aquarium side are going to be aggressive or semi-aggressive. This has to do with their natural environment, where they constantly battle for prized shelter in the coral reefs. This is the main reason why it’s more difficult to keep many fish in a saltwater tank even with stellar filtration.

Introducing New Animals In An Existing Tank

This can be a full blog post in itself. I feel the best way to explain this is to differ from PrimeTime Aquatic’s channel. He’s an amazing content creator, and a regular at various tradeshows I’ve been to. This video will show you how to introduce your newly purchased fish.

While this particular video does not addressing quarantining, I do have a quarantine blog and video post that is marine fish related. The same principals apply, though in freshwater most aquarists will not use medications prophylactically.

FAQS

Closing Thoughts

I hope the charts supplied today helped you in determining if fish you are thinking of housing together are compatible. I am aware that the charts are general guidelines and more specific sub-species may require questions. If you have such questions, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation. Thanks for reading!

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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

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🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

Finding worms in your aquarium is one of those moments that can cause instant panic. but the reality is that not all worms are harmful, and some are actually beneficial. I’ve encountered every major type of aquarium worm over 25 years of fishkeeping, from harmless detritus worms to parasitic camallanus worms that can devastate a fish population if left unchecked. The most important thing is being able to identify what you’re dealing with quickly so you can take the right action. This guide covers the four main types you’re likely to encounter and what each one means for your tank.

4 Types of Aquarium Worms

There are many types of pests that can turn up in aquariums and worms are a common culprit. In this article, I’ll be introducing 4 common types of worms found in fish tanks and ponds.

For each type, I will provide you with some important information about:

• Identifying the worm type
• Where they occur in the aquarium
• What causes them to spread and multiply
• How to treat them

So let’s get started!

1. Detritus

Detritus worms are common but harmless segmented worms. Many aquarists would rather not have any worms in their tanks, but detritus worms are actually a great member of your tank’s clean-up crew. These tiny annelid worms work hard to break down waste which helps keep the tank clean and the water quality high.

Detritus worms can reproduce rapidly in poorly maintained aquariums with too much waste and uneaten fish food.

Appearance

Detritus worms are segmented (annelid) worms, which puts them in the same family as the regular earthworm.

They are usually tiny white worms, but there are a bunch of different species, and some of the larger types can grow to an inch in length.

Where They Occur

Detritus worms usually live in the substrate, but they can also be found hiding in other places like your aquarium filter media. When the population of detritus worms in an aquarium explodes, they can be seen all over the place, even at the surface of the water.

Causes

Detritus worms find their way into aquariums with new fish and plants, or in translocated gravel, filter media, or water. They are present in many fish tanks and really don’t do any harm.

The detritus worm population increases when your water quality gets really bad and there is plenty of food for them in the form of leftover fish foods and waste. To prevent a detritus worms population explosion, make sure you maintain good water quality and dissolved oxygen levels.

Treatment Options

The best way to get rid of detritus worms is to give your tank a thorough cleaning and vacuum the gravel. To prevent detritus worms from coming back, keep up with regular aquarium maintenance and avoid overfeeding and overstocking your tank.

Chemical treatments are unnecessary for controlling detritus worms.

2. Planaria

Planaria worms are another common aquarium pest. These worms occur in both fresh and saltwater and can be quite a headache for fish and shrimp keepers.

These creatures are a little more sinister than the detritus worms because they are actually predators. These worms eat other small animals and they have been known to eat baby shrimps, as well as recently molted or weakened adult shrimps.

Appearance

Planaria worms are flatworms of the turbellaria family. These flattened worms have a triangular head shape and two visible eyes, which makes them pretty easy to identify.

They come in a variety of colors including white, red, and brown. They are usually seen crawling around because they are unable to swim.

Planaria worms look similar to the harmless rhabdocoela worms which are also a type of flatworm. Rhabdocoela worms are much smaller, however, and feed on bacteria and algae.

Where They Occur

Planaria worms are usually found in or on the substrate, or on the aquarium glass. These flatworms are unable to swim, so you won’t find them in the water column.

Causes

Planaria worms get into aquariums from water, materials, plants, and animals brought over from other infected aquariums and water sources. Quarantining new fish and sterilizing new plants before introducing them to your tank is always a good idea.

Treatment Options

The best way to get rid of, or at least manage the population of planaria worms is to use either traps or poisons. Some fish will also feed on the planaria in your aquarium.

3. Anchor

Anchor worms, or Lernaea, are common parasites that attach to aquarium fish. These unwelcome creatures are large enough to be seen with the naked eye.

Appearance

Anchor worms are visible as string-like structures that trail from the bodies of freshwater fish.

Their name is a little confusing since these creatures are actually crustaceans, and the worm-like part that is visible is, in fact, the female reproductive structure. They also have an anchor-like structure beneath the fish’s skin that keeps them locked in place.

Where They Occur

Anchor worms attach themselves to the skin of freshwater fish. They mostly affect cyprinid fish like goldfish and koi, but there are several different types of anchor worms and many different fish species can be affected.

Causes

Anchor worms find their way into aquariums when infected fish are introduced. The best way to avoid this is to quarantine your livestock before introduction to your fish tank. Anchor worms can also be introduced on live plants or in any water transferred to your tank.

Treatment Options

You can get rid of anchor worms with a chemical treatment, and by manually removing them from your fish.

While manually removing them with tweezers can be very effective, it is also risky and stressful for your fish. The wounds this can cause can be more harmful than the parasites themselves, especially in smaller, more sensitive fish.

Chemical treatments for anchor worms include:

• Potassium permanganate
• Hikari Cyropro
• Dimilin
• Salt

You can learn more about them and other parasites in my fish diseases post.

4. Camallanus

Camallanus worms (picture source) are another dreaded aquarium pest. These parasites can be common in livebearers but also affect many different fish species. This infection causes bloating and wasting disease, which can eventually kill your fish.

Appearance

Camallanus worms can go undetected in small numbers, but when you do spot them, it can be pretty alarming. These fish parasites are visible as thin red worms that protrude from the fish’s anus. They have the ability to retreat back into the host fish’s body, so they are not always visible.

Where They Occur

Camallanus worms are internal parasites, which means they live inside your fish.

Causes

Camallanus worms get into fish tanks when bringing in new livestock and fish from other infected sources like pet stores or friends’ tanks.

Treatment Options

Camallanus worms can be tough to get rid of! If you notice any infected fish, take action right away.

The best treatment is to use medications like Fenbendazole. Fortunately, these antihelminthic medicines are safe for inverts like shrimps and snails in the correct doses.

Levamisole is another popular treatment for these parasites.

Removal & Treatment

Worm removal begins with identifying the type of worm you have and identifying the cause. Once you have that worked out, you can put together an action plan!

We have a video below from our YouTube channel that will guide you. We go over more in detail in this blog. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe. We post every week.

Let’s take a look at how to control worm populations in your aquarium.

How To Avoid Introducing Them

Prevention is always better than cure, just as the old saying goes! Even if you already have a worm problem, preventing further introductions in the future is definitely a good idea. Let’s take a look at how to keep unwanted critters out of your tank:

• Buy your fish from a trusted source
• Grow tissue culture plants that are pest-free. (Buceplant stocks a great range of these). Avoid adding wild pond plants to your tank
• Add as little water from outside sources as possible. Natural waterways and other aquariums are especially risky sources
• Quarantine your fish before adding them to a community tank
• Dip your plants to kill any hitch-hiking pests

Maintaining Good Water Quality

Water quality can be both the cause of worm infestations, as well a factor that makes a bad situation even worse. The main causes of poor water quality are:

• Leftover food from overfeeding your fish. Leftover fish food increases nutrient levels in the water and can cause algae growth too
• Excess waste in the aquarium system from too many fish or a lack of maintenance
• Plant waste in the form of rotting leaves will also reduce water quality
• Poor filtration

Poor water quality creates a great environment for worms to multiply, and also weakens your fish’s immune system, making them more susceptible to attack by parasites.

To stay on top of the water quality in your tank, make sure you run a good quality filter, perform regular partial water changes, and test your water parameters regularly.

Using A Gravel Vacuum

Giving your aquarium a thorough cleaning every few weeks is a very important part of aquarium maintenance. Your gravel vacuum is one of the most useful tools you have for keeping the water quality in your tank high and preventing pest problems.

By vacuuming the substrate, you not only remove the worms and larvae, but also the leftover food and waste that feeds them.

Using A Trap

Trapping can be a very effective means of controlling the population of stubborn worms like planaria. You aren’t likely to remove all of them this way, but it is a great option for aquarists who prefer not to use chemical treatments.

A worm trap is a device that is baited with a food source like shrimp meat or frozen bloodworms. The planaria worms then enter the trap, allowing you to remove them easily.

Avoid leaving large amounts of bait in your tank for extended periods because this can cause dangerous ammonia spikes and reduce water quality.

Introducing Predatory Fish

In the case of non-parasitic worms like planaria and detritus worms, bottom feeders like loaches and other predatory fish can definitely be helpful. These worms will be seen as a tasty snack, and even if the fish can’t eradicate them completely, they will still help to keep the population under control.

Unfortunately, when it comes to parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms, your fish are the victims and will not be able to help themselves.

Chemical Treatment

Sometimes, using medications and chemical treatments is the only option, even though many aquarists would prefer not to.

Dangerous parasites like anchor worms and camallanus worms should be eradicated as quickly and efficiently as possible. There are many products available, and if you’re uncertain about treating your own fish, reaching out to a veterinarian is always a safer bet.

Here’s a short list of commonly used chemical treatments that are available for aquarium water and fish treatment.

• Fenbendazole

Fenbendazole is an active canine dewormer ingredient that is very effective for wiping out planarians in aquariums.

• Levamisole

Levamisole is an antihelminthic medication that can be very effective in the control of nematodes like camallanus worms. Unfortunately, this medication can be dangerous to shrimp and some fish such as loaches if overdosed.

• Dimilin

Dimilin x is a very useful product for controlling infestations of anchor worms. This is a very powerful treatment, however, so great care is necessary when calculating dosages.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

If you’re dealing with an aquarium worm problem, rest assured, you’re not alone. Spotting a worm in your tank can be pretty alarming, but there’s no need to panic. Simply start by identifying the creature, and then be sure to follow the necessary steps or consult a veterinarian if necessary.

Have you had any aquarium worm issues lately? Let me know how you solved the problem below!

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🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.