Tag: Freshwater

  • Hornwort Plant Care Guide: Growing the Hobby’s Best Beginner Plant

    Hornwort Plant Care Guide: Growing the Hobby’s Best Beginner Plant

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Table of Contents

    The Hornwort Plant is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.

    Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

    This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

    A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Hornwort Plant

    Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Hornwort Plant without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Hornwort Plant are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Growing Hornwort Plant

    Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.

    Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.

    Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.

    Expert Take

    If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.

    Key Takeaways

    • Hornwort is a low-maintenance, beginner-friendly, and pretty hardy plant to grow in a home aquarium
    • They are invasive plant species because of their high versatility rate and allelopathic qualities
    • They grow best as floating plants and can control algae growth

    A Brief Overview Of Hornwort Plant

    Scientific NameAnthocerotophyta
    Common NamesHornwort, Foxtail
    FamilyCeratophyllaceae
    OriginNorth America
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingModerate
    Tank PlacementBackground
    Flow RateModerate
    Temperature Range59 Fยฐ to 86 Fยฐ
    Height120 inches
    pH Range6.0 – 7.5
    Growth RateFast
    Feed TypeWater column feeder
    Co2 RequirementNo

    Classification

    DivisionMagnoliophyta
    ClassMagnoliopsida
    OrderCeratophyllales
    FamilyCeratophyllaceae
    GenusCeratophyllum
    SpeciesC. Demersum (Linnaeus, 1753)

    Hornwort Introduction

    Hornwort is a well-known and one of the oldest aquatic plants that you still find in home aquariums and in the wild around the world.

    They are scientifically recognized as Ceratophyllum Demersum while commonly known as either Hornwort or Foxtail. They belong to the Ceratophyllaceae family from the genus Ceratophyllum.

    This hardy plant makes an ideal candidate for most aquariums, especially those that are run by beginners. Since Hornwort is highly skilled when it comes to adaptability, it can easily spread to new regions as an invasive species.

    But that happens mostly in the wild so there’s nothing to worry about. Instead, we will focus on how this plant is an exceptional addition to your aquarium due to its appearance and resilience.

    Origin And Habitat

    Hornwort plants are native to South America though they are now available in every continent except Antarctica.

    They were first introduced to the world by a Swedish botanist named Carl Linnaeus. There are only 100 to 150 species available, although you can find 300 species names published due to misidentification.

    In the wild, this hardy plant grows on damp soil and can put up with a diverse range of conditions. This includes growing in tropical waters, as well as cold water temperatures, low lighting conditions, and even polluted environments.

    Is This An Invasive Species?

    Due to its versatility, ability to grow under various conditions, and easy propagation, the Hornwort can quickly turn into an invasive species.

    But this is not the only reason they have a high potential to spread to other zones. Hornwort has allelopathic qualities, which is a phenomenon where plants with these biochemicals slow down or entirely prevent the growth and survival of other plants.

    What Do They Look Like?

    Apart from displaying qualities that help you maintain a healthy tank environment for your fish, Hornwort looks incredible in almost every aquarium setting.

    Hornwort

    , Hornwort looks dark green to yellow depending on the light intensity and water temperature. If the temperature is warmer, the plant will appear yellowish-green. But if it is kept under its preferred condition, you will see a dark green shade.

    Hornwort doesn’t have true roots. It grows rhizoid (hair-like roots) which acts and functions like roots so the plant can stay intact in the substrate. Some people feel like the main stem grows multiple plants. But when you observe it, you notice that one plant grows multiple side shoots, creating the look of many plants.

    When it comes to Hornwort leaves, they look dark green and are not completely smooth. The texture is somewhat bumpy. The leaves are tiny and are produced around the stem in a set of 6 to up to 12. The base comprises loosely packed and larger leaves, while the end has shorter and tightly attached leaves.

    Stems are 2 inches in diameter, but they can go as tall as 2 feet. To prevent Hornwort from running over your tank, keep it properly maintained.

    It is essential for Hornwort to produce flowers for reproduction. Hence the flowering plant will feature different colored flowers that are deep red, pink, or brown. The shades can vary depending on how strong or low the light is. These flowers bear an ovoid fruit that is 0.16 inches in size.

    Placement And Lighting

    Hornwort is placed in two different ways, each with its benefits.

    This fast growing plant is commonly used as a background plant because of its huge size. But if you have a larger tank, you can also use it as a mid-ground plant.

    Since Hornwort is a floating plant that can also survive when planted in the substrate, I will recommend you consider what types of fish you have in your tank. Small fish love floating plants because they create a dense mate overhead.

    These mats block out light and keep the fish safe and make them comfortable. The surface dwelling fish will also love to see Hornwort floating on the water surface because they get to interact with them by weaving from stems to leaves and back.

    As far as lighting goes, Hornwort doesn’t need too much light to grow. The plant already grows rapidly, making it challenging for planted tank owners to prevent it from growing to new locations. If you keep it under intense lighting, the plant might start growing even faster.

    You can go for LED lights to give them medium lighting conditions. Keep the duration under 12 hours per day. But do not deprive the plant of proper lighting as it will impact the color of the plant.

    Can They Grow Floating?

    Even though with a versatile plant like Hornwort, you get plenty of freedom to decide its placement, the best way to grow Hornwort is as a floating plant. Because this way, this great plant gets finer access to light and carbon dioxide from the air. Also, you don’t have to make arrangements for it to float on the surface since the plant can float naturally.

    It is possible to grow it by rooting it in the substrate or attaching it to a hardscape. But since Hornwort doesn’t have a strong root system, it will likely decompose.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Compatibility is never an issue with Ceratophyllum Demersum since it is hardy and good to pair up with a wide range of fish and plants.

    It has a high potential to survive nibbling even in a goldfish tank and become a source of food for adult and baby fish.

    It’s still better to know what species make good tank mates in Hornwort planted tanks.

    Ideal Tank Mates

    Hornwort is surprisingly compatible with herbivorous fish because its leaves don’t appeal to them. The rough texture will prevent the fish from nibbling on it.

    You can pair them up with fish like:

    Snails like Nerite snails, Japanese Trapdoor snails, and Mystery snails are also good options to consider for Hornwort plants.

    If you want to introduce shrimp in a fish tank inhabited by Hornwort, you can go for Red Cherry Shrimp, Black Rose, Blue Velvet, Green Jade, and Rill Shrimp.

    The floating Hornwort plant will function as a refuge for most livebearers whenever they are mating. They will also provide small fish with shade and block out light that disturbs the day-to-day activities of fish species.

    You can feel free to choose snails and shrimp from my suggestions to get help with cleaning up any plant debris. Hornwort sheds leaves, as a result of getting nibbed by aggressive and hungry fish. Snails and shrimp will clear up the bottom, preventing decomposing plant matter from polluting the tank environment.

    Compatibility with Plants

    If you want to grow plants alongside Hornwort, make sure you know about its allelopathy nature.

    Hornwort grows fairly fast by readily devouring nutrients from the water. This helps prevent algae growth. But since Hornwort can outcompete new plants as well as those that don’t quickly devour nutrients, it is very likely that your other plants will suffer from the lack of nutrients. This will not kill the plants, but it can surely slow down their growth rate.

    Another essential thing to consider is what plants will be under this great floating plant. Hornwort blocks out light, which is an issue for those plants that need intense lighting.

    You can choose Java Fern, Anubias, Java Moss, Sagittaria, and American Water Weed for Hornwort planted tanks. These plants don’t need intense lighting to survive and can withstand Hornwort.

    But avoid planting Duckweed as it has a faster rate of consuming nutrients.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Like fish that get along well with Hornwort, there are some species that will damage the plant when they are hungry.

    Fish species like African Cichlids, and Goldfish are not recommended to put in a fish tank where you have planted Hornwort.

    As long as you feed your aggressive fish on time, the plant will sustain minor attacks on the leaves. But if your Goldfish is too hungry or your African Cichlid isn’t in a good mood, they will likely attack it too aggressively, resulting in serious plant damage.

    Feeding (Fertilization)

    The plant doesn’t need additional fertilizers to grow though occasional doses will make it fuller and healthier. You can go for Nitrogen and iron-based fertilizers for Hornwort to develop strong and fuller leaves and optimal coloration.

    Hornwort grows incredibly fast by soaking up nutrients. If you choose to add fertilizers, other plants in your aquarium tank will highly appreciate it.

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    But since it has a reputation for eating up nutrients faster than other plants, you need liquid fertilizers for your tank so that other plants don’t starve to death. Add fertilizers at least once a week to make up for the loss of nutrients.

    Pro Tip: Keep an eye out for nutrient deficiencies in your plants. The signs include leaves turning yellow, shortened internodes, and abnormal leaf coloration, such as bronze or purple leaves.

    How Much and How Often to Feed?

    The quantity and frequency of feeding depend on the number of plants and their individual needs. If your tank is heavily planted, then feed your plants accordingly. Keep factors like CO2, lighting, filtration, and maintenance in mind.

    A planted tank should have higher numbers of nitrates so that the plants don’t have to compromise on the number of nutrients. And it becomes more essential when you have Hornwort.

    Author's Note: If you have shrimp, make sure you don't overdo fertilizers and CO2. Some fertilizers have copper, which makes them lethal for shrimp and even Hornwort. Do your research!

    CO2 Injection

    As I mentioned above, you don’t need to add extra CO2. Medium access to carbon dioxide is enough for the plant to grow.

    If you have a heavily planted tank, go for a higher dose of CO2. But in a small tank with limited plants, CO2 can trigger the already fast growth rate of Hornwort, which is extremely challenging to handle.

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    Care

    Managing Ceratophyllum Demersum is easier than you think. It doesn’t matter whether you have any prior experience or you are a total beginner. You can take care of the plant fairly well.

    First thing first, always do occasional trimmings and pruning. It ensures the plant doesn’t have massive growth and stays out of the lane of other plants.

    How your plant grows will depend on how and where you trim it. For example, if you trim it from the main stem, it is likely that Hornwort will grow more from the sides. This will eventually lead it to have its branches out. But if you trim the sides, Hornwort will grow straight and stronger.

    It can grow under medium to strong lighting. However, it is better to expose it to bright lighting so it can have optimal growth.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Thanks to the hardy nature of Hornwort, these species can tolerate a wide variety of tank setups and temperatures.

    In the wild, Hornwort grows in lakes, ponds, rivers, and marshes. They get to deal with different environments where water parameters vary.

    Also, their versatility makes it easier for aquarium owners to grow them in small and large planted aquariums. When pruned regularly, Hornwort will fit in your small tank. But if you don’t trim it on time in a large tank, that will also be completely fine.

    Hornwort needs at least a 15-gallon tank to thrive. Water temperature is one of the most important factors for proper growth. Expect it to grow 0.4 to 0.8 inches a day under its preferred temperature.

    Keep water temperature 59 Fยฐ-86 Fยฐ, water hardness 5 to 15 dGH, and pH 6.0 to 7.5 to keep your plant healthy.

    Filtration

    Hornwort doesn’t need a strong filtration system as a natural oxygen booster.

    But keeping water quality up to the mark is recommended. You should make water changes once a week and remove plant matter from the tank whenever Hornwort sheds leaves.

    Other than that, I recommend getting a sponge filter, hang-on-back filter, or canister filter to weed out unnecessary toxins like ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites from the tank.

    Pro Tip: Don't plant it close to a filter inlet so that it can stay safe from getting blocked by plant debris.

    Flow

    Hornwort prefers a gentle flow. While planting, make sure the needles don’t get stuck in the filter intake and disturb the water flow.

    If the flow is too light, the fish that love medium flow will likely get stressed. Low flow will also influence your plant’s growth, making it appear bushier. But if it’s too strong, your plant will likely grow tighter together, while the fish that prefer medium water flow will also get disturbed.

    Is the Hornwort Plant Right for You?

    Before you buy a Hornwort Plant, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.

    • Experience level: Hornwort Plant are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
    • Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
    • Temperament considerations: Hornwort Plant is territorial or aggressive. You need to plan tank mates carefully and provide enough space and cover to reduce conflict. They are not a good fit for peaceful community tanks with small, shy fish.
    • Feeding requirements: Hornwort Plant are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
    • Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
    • Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.

    How to Propagate

    Producing new plants is not a big deal for Hornwort.

    The propagation happens through vegetative fragmentation. This method is widely used for invasive species. All you need to do is stop trimming for a few weeks.

    Only separate one part of the plant from the rest and take the cuttings (video source) where the flow is low to moderate. After that, let it grow on its own. You don’t have to plant it; free-floating is the best way to propagate Hornwort.

    You can either get a whole stem or only a small part from the main stem. The main stem grows multiple side shoots or, in autumn, buds. In their natural habitat, they form buds that sit on the ground when the weather is cold. Once the temperature gets warm, the buds start sprouting. These buds then turn into a new plant.

    Another way to get multiple Hornwort plants is by cutting off the new growths of the plant and letting it grow. If you donโ€™t have extra trimmings, you can ask around.

    Health And Disease

    There are countless benefits of introducing Hornwort to your fish tanks. But sometimes, the plant can become a hassle for those who don’t meet their basic needs.

    Hornwort is famous for shedding needles or its needle-like leaves. It happens when there are huge water fluctuations or environmental changes. It can also happen due to a lack of nutrients or feeding it chemicals like liquid carbon.

    The plant will go through normal shedding when you first introduce Hornwort to your tank. Once it gets used to the new environment, it will recover. But if the shedding doesn’t stop, you need to maintain the number of nutrients in the water or allow the plant to sit under intense lighting.

    Another disease is Hornwort turning bronze. Even though the plant does well when the lighting is high, extreme lighting can influence the leaf coloration, causing it to turn brown from the tips. Sometimes warmer temperatures can also alter the color of the leaves.

    Signs Of Health

    A healthy Hornwort plant should be bushy, with its stems covered by thick needles. The color should be deep green, with the exception of the nips. Nips can take on a lighter shade of green. The needles are thin and stiff.

    Apart from this, a healthy Hornwort will display long branches or side stems.

    Where To Buy?

    Hornwort is really famous and, therefore, widely available. You can purchase them online or get them from any pet store or fish store.

    The plant is sold in bunches. A bunch of 3 shouldnโ€™t cost more than 8$. Finding new trimmings online is tough since they don’t survive shipment well.

    What It Is Actually Like Growing Hornwort Plant

    The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

    Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

    Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

    In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

    FAQs

    How the Hornwort Plant Compares to Similar Species

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    The most common alternative to the Hornwort Plant is the Anacharis, another floating stem plant that grows fast and absorbs nutrients. Anacharis has smoother leaves and is slightly less messy, but Hornwort grows faster and tolerates a wider range of conditions. For pure nutrient absorption and ease, Hornwort has the edge.

    Closing Thoughts

    While itโ€™s true that not all fast-growing plants are easy to care for, hornwort is a great example of a fast-growing plant that is appropriate for beginners. If youโ€™re looking to add some greenery to your home but donโ€™t have a lot of time or experience with plant care, hornwort may be the perfect option for you. Have you kept Hornwort before? Let us know in the comments how it went for you or if you have any other beginner-friendly recommendations.

  • Fast Growing Aquarium Plants: 10 Great Picks for Algae Control

    Fast Growing Aquarium Plants: 10 Great Picks for Algae Control

    Fast-growing plants are one of the best tools in a planted tank. they out-compete algae for nutrients, fill in a new setup quickly, and give you immediate results while slower species establish. After years of planted tank work, I know which species grow fastest and where each fits best in a layout.

    Fast-growing plants are the best natural algae control you can add to an aquarium. and I say that after 25 years of trying every chemical solution on the market. The principle is simple: fast growers outcompete algae for the same nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. In my early reef-keeping days I used chaeto in the sump for exactly this reason. In freshwater, I lean on hornwort, water sprite, and guppy grass for the same effect. The plants on this list grow fast enough to make a visible difference within days, which is exactly what a tank struggling with algae or a new cycle needs. The bonus is that most of them are nearly indestructible for beginners.

    In this article, Iโ€™ll walk you through the 10 types of the fastest growing plants with all the basics you need to know.

    Key Takeaways

    • The best thing about fast-growing aquarium plants is that they don’t leave nutrients for algae to feed on
    • You can use most of these fast-growing plants regardless of your experience
    • Most fast-growing plants are very easy to maintain and pretty hardy in nature

    What Are Fast Growing Aquarium Plants?

    Fast-growing aquarium plants are those plant species that help you keep algae at bay without any specific needs or requirements. Since they have a rapid growth rate, they don’t let nutrients stay in the water column for algae to consume for a long time.

    In addition to that, most of these plants grow swiftly which makes them slightly demanding to manage in small aquariums. But if you know your way around them, these plants will be one of the best decisions you can make as an impatient aquarist.

    Depending on the size of your aquarium, you can use them as background plants, mid-ground plants, and even as foreground plants.

    The Benefits Of Fast Growing Plants

    Listing down all the advantages of fast-growing plants can be challenging. But to help you understand some of the most important ones, I’ve put down these benefits you can surely get by planting them in your aquarium. I’ve also included a video from our YouTube channel so you can follow along as well. The blog post goes into further detail so check out both and subscribe if you like our content.

    Algae Control

    Excessive algae growth results from a high number of nutrients present in the water column. Apart from nutrients, algae thrive on light. Even though not all algae is harmful, the rapid growth of algae can be dangerous for your fish and plants.

    Aquarium fish and plants can’t obviously go without water and light so you have to find ways to fight this overgrowth. In this case, the fast-growing aquarium plants are your solution.

    Under their preferred conditions, these plants grow quickly by absorbing nutrients and light. When you observe how algae grow, you will notice that it, too, needs access to both.

    While planting fast-growing aquarium plants, these fast-growing aquatic plants will compete for nutrients and light that will make algae starve, restraining the overgrowth and sometimes causing it to die altogether.

    Food and Oxygen

    Live aquatic plants make a good round diet for aquarium fish, shrimp, and fry and provide oxygen to the inhabitants of home aquariums. Plants are known to absorb carbon dioxide and promote a well-oxygenated environment that is beneficial for the fish.

    A fast-growing aquatic plant helps better with oxygenating water and producing food since it doesn’t take too long to grow.

    Shade

    Aside from making otherwise drab aquariums beautiful to look at, fast-growing aquatic plants are popular for providing fish species with shade.

    While smaller fish use them to stay away from getting nagged, these plants are perfect during the spawning season.

    10 Of The Fastest Growing

    Now I am going to walk you through 10 of the fastest-growing plants suitable for beginners, intermediate, and experienced aquarium owners.

    You will read about their specific needs, and qualities, and how to keep them without any risks.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Elodea

    • Scientific Name: Elodea Canadensis
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low lighting
    • Size: 4 inches to up 3 feet
    • Tank placement: Mid-ground and background
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Perfect for controlling algae growth, Elodea is a fast-growing plant popular in the aquarium hobby for its hardy nature and ability to withstand a range of aquatic conditions. The plant goes by different names such as Brazilian waterweed, Anacharis, and Elodea Densa.

    Since it has a rapid growth rate, it can absorb nutrients from the water column faster than algae.

    Apart from that, the plant looks absolutely stunning in home aquariums and does well in a water temperature that stays between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Elodea is also perfect for young fish and invertebrates if you want to give them a nursery habitat.

    Although the plant stays underwater, it can shoot white flowers above the water’s surface to produce seeds. Almost all species feature deep green stems and light green leaf blades. Some can vary slightly in colors, though.

    To feed these plants, consider liquid fertilizers so that they can get enough minerals to survive. Also, iron deficiency is common among these plant species, usually visible when the leaves turn yellowish or when the edges become yellow or brown.

    Author's note: Elodea can grow well if it freely floats, but for proper growth, it should be rooted in the substrate.

    2. Hornwort

    • Scientific Name: Ceratophyllum demersum
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium to high
    • Size: 40 to 140 inches
    • Tank placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    In addition to tolerating a wide range of water temperatures and higher levels of pH, Hornwort is an excellent choice for a number of reasons.

    This background plant is highly adaptive, with the ability to reduce unwanted nutrients from the water column. This hardy plant is found in freshwater ponds, steady streams, and lakes, making it resilient when it comes to environmental changes.

    It does best as a floating plant, but you can consider loosely attaching it to the substrate. One of the best things about Hornwort is that it gives fish a strong cover to use as a hideout and helps control algae by absorbing a large number of nutrients.

    Hornwort doesn’t grow roots to soak up nutrients. Instead, the plant uses its stems and leaves to access nutrients in the water.

    The main downside to Hornwort is that it grows very rapidly which can lead it to cover most of your aquarium. You have to make occasional trimmings once or twice a month to prevent them from blocking out lighting and becoming a hassle for other plants and fish species living in the aquarium.

    Hornwort doesn’t require strong lighting as well as carbon dioxide injection. Keep the water temperature above 60 and below 80 degrees Fahrenheit. 

    Pro Tip: Since Hornwort grows quickly, it can use up all nutrients present in the water column. To ensure that the other live plants get enough nutrients, use liquid fertilizers.

    3. Water Wisteria

    Water Wisteria

    An easy to grow and great beginner floating plant to try!

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    • Scientific Name: Hygrophila difformis
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate to high
    • Size: Up to 20 inches
    • Tank placement: Midground and background
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Water wisteria is a highly recognized plant species due to its relatively low maintenance and high adaptability qualities. Like other plants, water wisteria brings plenty of benefits to your planted tank.

    You can always count on it for cleaning aquarium water, as well as providing your fish with a strong shelter and making your aquarium aesthetic to look at.

    Water wisteria features dark green leaves that add a unique accent to aquariums. And just like other fast-growing plant species, it also grows rapidly and makes algae starve to death even before you notice it.

    Coming back to its appearance, the dark green leaves form tight protrusions along the length. These leaves take on various forms, mainly influenced by the environment.

    The leaves are large, while the roots are thin and white. The roots are usually buried underneath the substrate, making them a strong source of support for the plant to stay in place.

    Depending on genetics and how you plant them, the leaves can slightly alter their shape. Since water wisteria is known for growing quickly, it’s always better to perform regular pruning unless you want it to cover your entire aquarium with its dark and heavy leaves.

    Although it is pretty hardy, sudden environmental changes can highly influence the overall stability of the plant. You have to learn about how to avoid going through the melting phase before purchasing it.

    Also, water wisteria does best when kept in its ideal water temperature range which is above 68 and below 86 degrees Fahrenheit.

    4. Duckweed

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    Duckweed

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    • Scientific Name: Lemnoideae
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low to high
    • Size: 7 mm
    • Tank placement: foreground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Not all fast-growing plant species have to be large. Some can be small and still save you time and absorb nutrients from the water to kill excess algae.

    Duckweed is one of those few plants on earth that grows to a very small size. But don’t let its diminutive size stops you from buying it.

    The plant has wonderful qualities. Duckweed is a very hardy plant that can easily withstand shifting water parameters and even a range of tank setups. Another irresistible feature is its quality of devouring ammonia and nitrates in the tank, which can help with keeping the water pure.

    Despite the small size that makes it almost impossible to see, Duckweed grows through budding. When it flowers, you can see small green-colored blooms.

    Duckweed floats above the water’s surface and helps you protect underwater creatures. Not only that, it can grow on top of ponds regardless of the cold temperature of winter. To improve its short lifespan, make sure you get plenty of light so it can thrive.

    5. Ludwigia Repens

    My Pick
    Ludwigia Repens

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    • Scientific Name: Ludwigia Repens
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Size: 8 to 20 inches
    • Tank placement: Mid-ground and background
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Ludwigia Repens is not a rare plant in the aquarium hobby. In fact, many beginners and experts use this plant on a very large scale because of how versatile, easy to grow, and beautiful it is.

    The beautiful color combination of vibrant red and deep green adds to the beauty and uniqueness of the plant. Make sure you expose it to bright lighting to get that mesmerizing red and green shades.

    Ludwigia Repens can tolerate a wide range of water fluctuations, given you understand other contributing factors to their well-being. Generally, the plant does best in warm water temperatures, ranging from 75 Fยฐ to 79 Fยฐ. And apart from growing underwater, Ludwigia Repens can grow out of the water, making it an amphibious plant.

    Like other fast-growing aquarium plant species, Ludwigia Repens also grows pretty fast and consumes nutrients from the water column, making avoiding algae growth easy.

    Some of the most common advantages this plant brings to your aquarium are enhancing water conditions, helping the anxious fish stay away from aggressive fish species using the plant, and adding to the beauty of your tank with its red-pigmented olive green leaves.

    The plant will grow out of the aquarium if the water column is not deep. Even though the roots are already strong, you have to get them a nutrient rich substrate for optimal growth.

    Author's Note: Ludwigia Repens is extremely sensitive to environmental transitions. Once the plant gets used to a particular temperature including pH levels, avoid disturbing the water parameters as much as possible.

    6. Vallisneria

    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria sp.
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium
    • Size: 8 to 18 inches
    • Tank placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    For those aquarists who want to give a classic look to their aquariums, Vallisneria is for you! It is one of the most popular and earliest plants used in home aquariums. It’s easy to grow and adds up to the beauty of your aquarium’s background.

    The growth rate of Vallisneria is somewhat faster than those discussed above. This can make it hard for you to keep it in a small aquarium.

    And even if you have a large one, you need to make frequent trimmings to control the growth. You can trim the leaves to the length you like so that the plant doesn’t cover the entire top of the tank.

    Being a very undemanding plant and one that grows swiftly, Vallisneria allows you to enjoy your time without stressing over how to avoid algae from intruding on your tank.

    The plant looks like grass. When you observe their light green leaves, you see spines visible on them. The leaves can be highly variable in shape. Some are straight, while others can go twisted or spiraled.

    Before sending out roots, the plant throws runners to the top of the substrate. Once they grow out of the water, they develop flowering and production of seeds.

    Vallisneria doesn’t do well in soft waters. You have to keep acidic levels between 6.5 to 8.0 and water temperature above 68 Fยฐ and below 82 Fยฐ.

    7. Pearl Weed

    Pearl Weed

    A carpet growing plant that is fast growing and will do well in low light

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    • Scientific Name: Hemianthus micranthemoides
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium
    • Size: 2 to 6 inches
    • Tank placement: Foreground and mid-ground
    • Growth Rate: Moderate to high
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Pearlweed is another great option for those aquarists who don’t want to spend days and nights waiting for their plant to grow.

    This plant is an extremely versatile, simple, and adaptable carpeting plant. It features a bright green-colored stem that is usually delicate. Depending on how you want to use it, you can use this plant to decorate your foreground, mid-ground, and background.

    The plant grows small leaves that are also green in coloration. Contrary to the delicate stems, the leaves grow pretty thick, forming beautiful vegetation.

    Since the plant has good adaptability, you can keep it under low lighting as well as intense lighting conditions.

    The only difference between these two conditions is that low lighting will encourage thin stems with upward growth and longer gaps between the leaf nodes. While under intense lighting, Pearlweed will grow dense mats and dark green leaves.

    You can give it CO2 for a better growth rate. And as far as water parameters go, keep the temperature under 66 Fยฐ – 82 Fยฐ and acidity level 6.5 to 7.5.

    Pearlweed is a water column feeder because of its weak roots. The plant will get nutrients through the leaves most of the time. So, you have to dose them a liquid fertilizer instead of root tabs.

    8. Bacopa Carolinana

    • Scientific Name: Bacopa caroliniana
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Size: 20 to 39 inches
    • Tank placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    As a hardy plant, Bacopa Caroliniana is a considerably easier species for beginners to try out.

    Even though the growth rate of this plant is slow compared to other aquatic plants, but this is a great plant for those who want to oxygenate water for their fish and provide them a healthy environment. Since the plant doesnโ€™t grow that fast, you can inject CO2 to improve the growth rate.

    Bacopa Caroliniana can tolerate different water parameters as well as minor environmental changes. This makes it a perfect choice for those aquarists who want a hassle-free experience.

    When it comes to offering your tank a beautiful and pleasing look, this plant is no less. The surface of the leaves look glossy green while the lower surface appears pubescent.

    Flowers can be either deep blue or light blue. Depending on the lighting conditions, the shoots take on bronze or copper colors which can sometimes appear pink.

    To enhance their chances of getting a richer shade of classic green and red, put the plant under strong lighting.

    Apart from this, you can grow it in soil, and sand. It can while floating on the surface as well. This can help you provide your fish with appropriate shade.

    9. Giant Ambulia

    • Scientific Name: Limnophila sessiliflora
    • Skill Level: Moderate
    • Lighting: High
    • Size: 16 inches
    • Tank placement: Background
    • Growth Rate: High
    • CO2 Requirement: Recommended

    Some people consider Ambulia (video from Tropica Aquarium Plants) as one of the finest plants for maintaining the beauty standards of aquariums. And while they are absolutely right, there are other advantages to bringing them home.

    The plant is laced with intense shades of green. If you take care of what the plant prefers, you will paint the leaves emerald.

    The plant has another feature that is loved by almost every aquarist. It is the topmost area of the stem. The stem features a set of leaves that never stops growing.

    The stem is divided into multiple internodes that sit one centimeter apart. The leaves can be seen emerging from each one. The leaves are designed in a way that resembles a palm tree. This adds up their ornamental value even more.

    You don’t have to worry about cultivation and maintenance because this plant will be one of the easiest plant species to care for.

    Ambulia has a good growth rate that you can increase with CO2 injections. This will discourage the presence of algae as well. Keep the water temperature around 60 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ.

    10. Amazon Frogbit

    Floating Amazon Frogbit
    • Scientific Name: Limnobium laevigatum
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Lighting: High
    • Size: 3 to 20 inches
    • Tank placement: Surface
    • Growth Rate: High
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Capable of withstanding various water conditions as well as providing a smooth planting experience to beginners, Amazon Frogbit is one of the most commonly used plants in the aquarium world.

    The plant is famous for different qualities, such as its ornamental nature, versatility, adaptability, and simplicity.

    The structure looks round, and the plant consists of bright green leaves that have a smooth texture. Upon hitting maturity, they get laced with white color. You don’t have to wait for the plant to get mature to cover the top of the tank with its leaves. Amazon Frogbits can do it while still being young.

    As for roots, the roots are long with neat hairs. The flowers, however, look very tiny but extremely appealing to the eyes.

    The growth rate is high, so don’t need to use CO2 injections. As far as size is concerned, it can go anywhere between 3 to 20 inches, depending on how well you take care of them. If you keep water parameters consistent, the plant will not fall prey to anything. Keep the water temperature above 60 and below 80 degrees Fahrenheit and pH level between 6.0 to 7.5.

    Pro Tip: Amazon Frogbits are prone to rot if the surface is wet. Make sure you keep the surface dry at all times.

    Tank Setup For The Fastest Growing

    Fast-growing plants don’t take too much time to grow. If you understand and take care of their basic needs, they can thrive and make your aquarium environment beautiful and healthy for the inhabitants.

    But there are certain things you should never ignore. For most species discussed above, lighting acts as a contributing factor to their maintenance. Aside from this, most plants will take nutrients from the water so you don’t have to worry about a thing when it comes to algae.

    Make sure you use water fertilizers to keep things stable. Let’s have a look at how to successfully run an aquarium that has fast-growing plants.

    Lighting

    Most aquatic plants that grow fast need high lighting. You can consider planted tank LEDs. Using T5 fluorescent bulbs can be another great option. Current USA’s Serene RGB Pro is a great all-around LED light that works for virtually all plants.

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    Filter

    Filtration is as important as lighting for these plants. Even though they can get nutrients from the water and improve your aquarium’s water conditions, you still need to get a good quality filter.

    You have to be careful with the currents since some plants still need water to thrive, while others can tolerate subtle currents.

    You can use a canister or sponge filter for your planted tank.

    How to Care for Fast Growing Tank Plants

    Caring for these plants is pretty straightforward. Being a novice might hold you back but with proper guidance, you can ensure that the plants are doing fine.

    Feeding

    Most fast-growing plants are aggressive when it comes to taking nutrients from the water. They can also fulfill their needs through fish waste and leftovers of food.

    In case you are just setting up the tank, get liquid fertilizers as soon as possible so the plants don’t have to go through anything rough because of the absence of nutrients in the water.

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    CO2 Injection

    Some plants need CO2 to grow faster, while others don’t. With some plants, using CO2 will trigger their already high growth rate even further, which can be seriously challenging for an aquarist.

    Plants that grow out of the water don’t need Carbon Dioxide injection. You can also use Carbon Dioxide for Giant Ambulia, Pearl Weed, and Duckweed.

    Propagation

    Most plants are easy to propagate. Some plants produce seeds, while others can be grown by division. Some plants will grow on their own once you separate the plantlets produced by the mother plant.

    Tank Maintenance

    It doesn’t matter whether you run a small fish tank or one with lots of fish and plants or your own species of floating plants or submerged ones. Tank maintenance is extremely essential and beneficial.

    Most species that grow fast use all the nutrients they can get. This helps with keeping algae at bay. Moreover, you don’t have to worry about nitrates as the plants will use them. But I highly recommend making partial water changes and using a liquid test kit to maintain proper water parameters.

    You should also consider cleaning the substrate and the tank walls.

    Tank Mates

    Choosing the right tank mates is always one of the most important things to consider before turning your traditional tank into a heavily planted tank.

    Some animals can get along with different plants, while other aquarium plants are prone to get nipped. Other than that, you can add animals to a heavily planted tank to reduce the chances of algae attacking your tank.

    You can choose animals like:

    FAQs

    What Is The Fastest Growing?

    One of the fastest-growing plants that you can get is Hornwort. The stem plant does wonders to your aquarium and has been a part of home aquariums for a long time. Plants like Ludwigia Repens, Vallisneria, Giant Ambulia, and Amazon Frogbit are some other great choices.

    Do They Grow Faster In Warm Water?

    Aquarium plants have a higher chance of growing faster in warm water temperatures as compared to cold water.ย Aquarium plants have a higher chance of growing faster in warm water temperatures as compared to cold water.ย 

    Do Tank Stem Plants Need Substrate?

    Some plants absorb nutrients through their leaves, and they can survive without any substrate. However, plants that take nutrients through their roots need soil to thrive.

    You can plant these versatile plants in any substrate. It can be soil, gravel or sand. Just make sure you know what plants are best for growing in soil and what plants can go without any substrate.

    Closing Thoughts

    If you’re looking for some new plants to grow in your aquarium, why not try one of these fast-growing varieties? They’re easy to care for and will add a splash of color to your tank in no time. Plus, they’ll give you the satisfaction of seeing results quickly. So what are you waiting for? Give them a try and let us know how it goes in the comments below.

  • 15 Low-Maintenance Fish That Are Actually Beginner-Friendly

    15 Low-Maintenance Fish That Are Actually Beginner-Friendly

    People ask me all the time what the easiest fish to keep are. usually right after they’ve had a rough start with something that wasn’t actually beginner-friendly. After 25 years in this hobby, my honest answer is that no fish is truly zero maintenance. They all need water changes, feeding, and a cycled tank. But some species are dramatically more forgiving of beginner mistakes than others, and that’s what this guide is really about. Whether you’re setting up your first tank or just want a lower-stress setup, these are the fish I’d confidently recommend.

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose low-maintenance fish if you’re just starting out in the aquarium hobby.
    • Low-maintenance fish are also great for busy fishkeepers who don’t have enough time for high-maintenance aquariums.
    • All fish and aquariums need care and maintenance to stay healthy and beautiful. Set aside a few minutes each day to feed and evaluate your fish, and schedule one hour per week for tank maintenance.
    • Small, heavily stocked aquariums require more frequent maintenance than larger, lightly stocked tanks.

    What Are Low-Maintenance Fish?

    Low-maintenance fish are species that are easy to care for, and don’t need much of your attention each day to stay healthy. So what should you look for when choosing low-maintenance fish? We have a list below of our criteria and a video from our YouTube channel to share with you. If you enjoy our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

    • Hardiness

    Hardy fish are the best choice because they can often go two weeks or more between water changes. Hardy fish are also more likely to survive if you’re a few days late on tank maintenance.

    The amount of maintenance required depends just as much on your tank setup, feeding routine, and filtration, of course, but we’ll dive a little deeper into that later in the article.

    • Diet

    Low-maintenance fish are easy to feed. Choose fish that can be fed on easily available foods like tropical flake food, although it’s always a good idea to supplement their diet with convenient frozen foods like brine shrimp. Avoid fish with specialized, live-food diets.

    • Temperament

    Peaceful fish are the best choice for a low-maintenance community tank, especially if you don’t have much time to monitor your fish for aggression. More semi-aggressive fish species like the betta fish are great if you want just one pet fish to take care of.

    15 Of The Top Low Maintenance Fish

    Now that you know what to look for, here are 15 amazing low-maintenance species that you can keep!

    1. Betta Fish

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    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 5+ gallons
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6.5 – 8
    • Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 1 per tank

    Betta fish are one of the most popular pet fish in the world and they make a great low-maintenance pet for beginners! These awesome tropical fish are hardy and easy to feed, and they can thrive in a tank of just 5 gallons.

    Betta fish make wonderful aquarium pets but they have one downside. These aggressive fish are also known as Siamese fighting fish because they will attack each other if kept together.

    Experienced aquarists can keep a group of females together in a large tank, but keeping just a single male is a much easier option.

    2. Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 2.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America & Caribbean Islands
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 63 – 82ยฐF
    • School Size: 3+

    Guppies are perfect low-maintenance fish for beginners and busy fish keepers. These fish are peaceful, hardy, and completely unfussy about their diet.

    If you keep male and female guppies together they are going to breed sooner or later. The females produce live young, so breeding these fish and caring for the baby fry is super easy!

    Males are usually very brightly colored fish, and they can be kept together in the same aquarium without females if you prefer them not to breed.

    3. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 15+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: India
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Temperature: 64 – 74ยฐF
    • School Size: 8+

    Zebra danios are great low-maintenance pets. They are a super hardy species, and that makes them excellent beginner-friendly fish.

    Zebrafish are not the most colorful tropical fish in the hobby, but their bold stripes and high activity level means they bring life to any freshwater fish tank. They are at home in cooler conditions, however, so many aquarists keep them in room temperature water.

    Zebra danios are true schooling fish, so they will be happiest in a nice big group. Their busy nature also means they prefer a slightly bigger tank than other fish of their size.

    4. Platy

    Sunset Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Central & South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 70 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 5+

    Platy fish are small, brightly colored, and super easy fish to take care of. These fish are related to guppies, and you can see the resemblance. Platies are livebearers, so they are very easy to breed.

    It sounds kind of gruesome but the adult fish will eat the fry in most cases, so you don’t have to worry about them breeding out of control. Another option is to keep a group of females only. They’re just as pretty as the males but tend to be more peaceful fish.

    Platies are omnivorous fish that are easy to feed. They are also very affordable and easy to find at most pet stores so they’re ideal for beginners.

    5. White Cloud Minnow

    White Cloud Minnow in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: China
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Temperature: 64 – 72ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    White cloud mountain minnows are beautiful low-maintenance cold water fish for beginners. These fish live in mountain streams with a low water temperature in their natural habitat, so you can usually keep them without needing an aquarium heater.

    The peaceful white cloud minnow grows to less than two inches, so you can keep a small school in a tank of just ten to fifteen gallons without any problems.

    6. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Tank Size: 15 + gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 70 – 77ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Neon tetras are great low-maintenance fish for beginners. These colorful freshwater fish are perfect for a community tank but are also a great choice for a single-species setup.

    Keep a school of 6 or more neon tetras in a 15-gallon planted aquarium for a beautiful display tank that needs little maintenance.

    7. Cherry Barb

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 74 – 79ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Cherry barbs are good beginner fish that can thrive in community tanks or without other fish species. These peaceful creatures need the company of their own species to feel safe and confident, so keep a school of at least 6 individuals.

    Feed your cherry barbs once per day, test their water once a week, perform a water change twice a month, and you should have years of happy fishkeeping!

    8. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific Name: Pangio semicincta
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 3.5 – 4 inches
    • Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 70 – 79ยฐF
    • School Size: 3 +

    Kuhli loaches are the ultimate low-maintenance fish. In fact, you might even forget that you have them!

    These great-looking bottom feeders are pretty shy, and they usually come out at night. They love to search for leftover food from your other fish, so they really help to keep their tank clean.

    Kuhli loaches should be fed a diet of bottom-feeder food to ensure that they’re getting the right nutrition, however. Drop a sinking pellet or two in each night before the lights go out and watch these adorable fish start searching!

    9. Endler’s Livebearer

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 1.8 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Temperature: 75 – 86ยฐF
    • School Size: 3+

    Endler’s livebearers are very similar to their larger relative, the guppy. These equally colorful fish are great for small aquariums of ten gallons or more, and they get along perfectly with many other peaceful small fish.

    Endler’s livebearers will interbreed with guppies, so avoid keeping the two species together if you plan on growing out any fry.

    10. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Rasbora heteromorpha
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 6.5
    • Temperature: 72 – 77ยฐF
    • School Size: 8+

    The harlequin rasbora is a beautiful fish with vibrant colors and bold, characteristic markings. These schooling fish can be kept with a variety of different tank mates, and they are perfect for a small planted fish tank.

    Their natural schooling behavior is one of the real drawcards for the species, so go ahead and pick up a school of at least 8 harlequins to appreciate all they have to offer.

    11. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 5+

    There are loads of different fish species in the corydoras group, and they all make awesome tank mates for community fish tanks.

    These chunky catfish are great fun to watch as they cruise around the bottom of the aquarium, and their low-maintenance needs make them a good choice for beginners.

    12. Black Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank Size: 15+ gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 5.5 – 7
    • Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    Black neon tetras are another beginner-friendly fish that are perfect for a peaceful community tank. These schooling fish hang out in the middle to top layers of the aquarium, so your tank will always look busy if you keep them in a nice big group.

    Black neon tetras are small fish, and they will thrive in a tank of just 15 gallons or more. These hardy fish can live for up to 5 years with good care. They are perfect tank mates for other peaceful fish like corydoras catfish and kuhli loaches.

    13. Molly

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna/ P. sphenops
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South & North America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • School Size: 4+

    Molly fish are a great choice for fish keepers who want something a little larger. These American livebearers come in a variety of awesome colors and fin shapes, and they’re very easy to breed too.

    These low-maintenance fish will thrive on a regular diet of fish flakes, but the odd serving of brine shrimp will ensure healthy fish.

    Molly fish make a great choice for community tanks too. These peaceful fish are known algae-eaters, and they get along really well with other fish species! They also can be acclimated to live in saltwater tanks!

    14. Black Skirt Tetra

    What Does Black Shirt Tetra Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2.4 inches
    • Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Temperature: 68 – 78ยฐF
    • School Size: 6+

    The black skirt tetra is an active but peaceful species. These fish might not have the same bright colors as something like a neon tetra, but they make up for it with a really cool body shape and bold markings.

    These hardy fish are great for community tanks. They are social creatures, so keep them in a school of 6 or more in a fish tank with plenty of swimming space.

    15. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: India & Nepal
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF
    • School Size: 1+

    Honey gouramis are beautiful tropical fish that can be kept in a community aquarium with a variety of tank mates. You can also keep a single fish for a really easy and low-maintenance fish tank.

    These fascinating fish breathe atmospheric air so they should always have access to the water’s surface. This is rarely a problem unless you grow floating aquatic plants, however.

    Care

    Successful fishkeeping starts with the right tank and equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:

    Tank Setup

    • A big enough aquarium with a hood. It is best to choose an aquarium at least one size above the minimum recommended tank size of your fish.
    • An aquarium filter rated for your tank size or larger.
    • A heater. This is essential to keep the water temperature high enough for tropical fish. However, a heater is not always necessary for cold-water fish like white cloud minnows and fancy goldfish.
    • Aquarium lighting is set on a timer for 6 to 8 hours each day.
    • Substrate like aquarium gravel or sand.
    • Decorations like driftwood, rocks, and aquarium-safe decorations.

    Feeding

    Modern fish foods offer convenient nutritionally complete meals for your fish. Providing the right amount of food can take a little practice, but once you get the hang of it you can complete this task in just a few seconds.

    However, I recommend watching your fish for a minute or two during each feeding. That way you’ll be able to see if each fish is getting enough food, or if any timid fish are going hungry.

    Your fish should be able to finish the food in 2 minutes or so. Remember, uneaten food equals poor water quality, and that means more maintenance for you.

    Busy fishkeepers can feed their fish just once a day. Choose a time that suits you, like just before you leave for work or school, and make it part of your daily routine. If you need to leave home for more than a day at a time, you can even purchase an automatic fish feeder.

    These devices release a preset amount of food at a preset time. Just make sure you test it before leaving town for the weekend.

    Tank Maintenance

    Even the easiest aquarium fish need some regular maintenance So what do you need to do to keep your tank clean and your fish healthy?

    • Run High-Quality Filtration

    Good quality filtration is essential for maintaining high water quality. Your aquarium filter will remove physical waste particles from the water to make your tank look cleaner, but that’s not all.

    Tiny bacteria live inside the filtration media, and they are responsible for converting harmful chemicals like nitrite and ammonia into nitrates.

    • Monitor Your Water Quality

    Test your water regularly during the aquarium cycling process to monitor the levels of nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia in the water.

    These nitrogen compounds build up from decaying food and fish waste. The water in a new aquarium is safe for fish when it reads zero parts ammonia and nitrate.

    The results of your tests will help you work out a regular maintenance schedule. Remember, the more fish you have in your tank, the more waste they will produce, and the more maintenance you will need to perform.

    • Regular Water Changes

    You will also need to clean out your tank regularly to lower your nitrate levels. The Nitrates build up over time and the way to lower the levels is to remove a percentage of the old water and replace it with fresh new water.

    Use a gravel vacuum or python system to suck up water from the bottom of the tank. That way you’ll be sucking up the fish waste and other organic matter too.

    Python Cleaner

    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

    Buy On Amazon

    Replace the water you took out with fresh, dechlorinated water that is the same temperature as your aquarium water.

    Where To Buy

    All the recommended fish in this post are easy to pick up from most local fish stores. Alternatively, check out some of our recommended online retailers for great fish at great prices! We have a great partnership with Flip Aquatics. They sell some of the beginner fish listed here. You can use promo code ASDFLIPPOMO for a discount at checkout!

    FAQs

    Which Are The Easiest To Take Care Of?

    Guppies are some of the easiest fish to take care of. They are hardy, peaceful, and adaptable, and they thrive on a simple diet of fish flakes.

    What Is The Most Hardy Pet Fish?

    Zebra danios are some of the hardiest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. These adaptable fish can survive most beginner mistakes, but they still deserve the best care they can get.

    Which One Is The Most Low-Maintenance?

    The Betta fish is probably the most low-maintenance fish. A single betta fish in a 5-10 gallon tank with good filtration requires relatively little maintenance if fed correctly.

    Are They A Good Beginner Pet?

    Many fish make great beginner pets if researched correctly. Fish like bettas, guppies, and danios are very beginner friendly and affordable, and they need little space to thrive. Some fish are very difficult to care for, so choosing the correct species and equipment is very important.

    Final Thoughts

    Keeping a beautiful freshwater aquarium full of healthy colorful fish doesn’t require more than a few minutes each day and an hour on the weekend a few times each month.

    Choosing the right fish species can make all the difference, however, and the low-maintenance fish species in this post are just what you are looking for. Getting set up with a big enough tank, good quality filtration, and avoiding overstocking your freshwater aquarium are the keys to success!

    What is your favorite low-maintenance tropical fish? Comment down below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • Do Fish Eat Poop? The Honest Answer (and What Actually Keeps Your Tank Clean)

    Do Fish Eat Poop? The Honest Answer (and What Actually Keeps Your Tank Clean)

    Upfront honest answer: no fish eats poop in a way that actually removes it from your tank. This is one of the most persistent myths in the hobby. the idea that cories, plecos, or snails will “clean up” your tank and reduce your need for water changes. They won’t. Those species scavenge leftover food and biofilm, which is genuinely useful, but fish waste still needs to be processed through filtration and removed through water changes. There’s no substitute for that.

    That said, understanding which fish naturally interact with substrate waste and detritus is worth knowing. both for realistic expectations and for building a tank that stays cleaner longer. Here’s what actually happens when fish “eat” waste and what that means for your setup.

    Key Takeaways

    • No freshwater fish actually eats poop
    • Freshwater plants are great for breaking down fish poop
    • Good filtration will help break down fish poop
    • Siphoning out large poop is recommended to keep toxic ammonia and nitrites down

    Introduction To Poop-Eating Fish

    Freshwater aquariums are dirty. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of different organisms and microbes that work together to make these contained ecosystems operate. Believe it or not, fish poop is essential for making these systems run efficiently and safely.

    But what happens if you have too much fish poop entering the system? This can be due to overstocking, poor maintenance, inadequate filtration, or overfeeding.

    Overloading The Nitrogen Cycle

    As with anything, too much fish poop can overload the system with nutrients. When first starting a fish tank, ammonia must be added to the aquarium to initiate the nitrogen cycle. Over time, different microorganisms convert this ammonia into nitrite and, eventually, nitrate. This population of beneficial bacteria directly correlates to the amount of fish waste available and the subsequent levels of ammonia produced in the aquarium.

    Simply put, more fish waste equals more ammonia and bacteria.

    However, beneficial bacteria need to reproduce in order to compensate for higher ammonia levels, which takes time. A sudden or large raise in the level of ammonia in the system can leave toxic chemicals in the water column. This directly exposes fish, invertebrates, and live plants to potential ammonia poisoning, which can quickly become lethal.

    The only way to prevent ammonia from overwhelming the nitrogen cycle is by removing fish poop and other wastes in the aquarium before they have the chance to break down.

    Are There Any Fish That Eats Poop?

    The easiest way to remove fish poop from the aquarium would be to have another fish that does the work for you.

    Sadly, there is no aquarium fish that will eat the poop of another fish. And do not let anyone tell you differently! Less-informed pet store associates are very likely to try to sell you bottom feeders with the ability to clean up after other fish, but such a species does not exist.

    Many freshwater fish and invertebrate species are sold as members of the clean up crew. While it is easy to assume that a ‘clean up’ crew member, especially a bottom dweller, will clean up fish poop given its assigned name, this isn’t true. Instead, these fish eat algae and other organic matter that makes its way into our systems, like decayed plant debris and leftover food. There is no benefit to a food source that has already been processed by another animal.

    Fish that are commonly advertised as clean up crew members include:

    From this list, Otocinclus eat algae. Corydoras, plecos, and loaches eat some detritus and natural algae but prefer fresh algae wafers and meaty foods instead. Freshwater sharks, like the rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), might look like it eats fish waste and detritus off the substrate, but they prefer a fresh source of food instead.

    Just because a fish has a flat stomach and barbels does not mean that it is a good member of the clean up crew!

    Do Snails Eat Fish Poop?

    Surely there is a species of snail that eats fish poop, right? No, freshwater snails do not eat fish poop either. Like fish, snails enjoy eating algae and other decaying organics. Some snails even like to eat live aquarium plants, though most are considered safe to keep in the planted aquarium.

    Unfortunately, shrimp do not eat fish poop either. On top of eating algae and organic waste, some shrimp might even pick and eat parasites off of fish, but they will not eat poop.

    At times, it might look like your fish or invertebrates are eating poop. In most cases, this is a case of mistaking fish poop for a piece of food and they’ll usually spit it back out immediately. But sometimes, fish might eat poop if other food isn’t available. This is a serious case of malnourishment and should be addressed immediately.

    Why Don’t They Eat Poop?

    If fish poop is abundant, then why haven’t aquarium fish evolved to eat it? At the very least, snails and other members of the clean-up crew should have learned to eat poop over the years, right?

    There is little to no benefit to eating poop. Poop is the remaining waste product of food, meaning that most of the nutritional value has been removed. Not only that, but it probably also doesn’t taste the greatest! If you’ve ever watched your fish eat, you may have seen it take a piece of food and then spit it back out. This is the fish’s way of tasting the food before it ingests it; and yes, fish definitely have preferences!

    In the wild, it can also be dangerous to ingest poop. Many fish and invertebrates carry internal parasites which are sometimes excreted through feces. If another animal ingests this poop, then it will also be infected.

    All in all, fish have evolved to avoid eating poop due to biological safety and appetite preferences.

    What Breaks It Down?

    If other animals aren’t eating the poop, then where is it going?

    As with anything that is organic, fish poop will naturally break down over time until it’s completely incorporated back into the ecosystem. Bacteria and other microbes will help eat fish poop and break down proteins that then get released as ammonia. The physical matter slowly falls apart and disintegrates over time, getting incorporated into the substrate and filter media.

    Once in the form of ammonia or ammonium, live plants and bacteria can use these nutrients to perform photosynthesis and create food.

    How To Keep Your Aquarium Clean

    An accumulation of fish poop can lead to water quality issues and give your tank a dirty appearance. Because there aren’t any fish or invertebrate species that eat fish waste, it’s up to the hobbyist to manually remove the excess fish poop.

    There are a few ways to make sure that your aquarium stays clean without having to rely on another fish to eat poop for you. This includes regular aquarium maintenance, controlling water flow, and incorporating live plants into your freshwater fish tank.

    Regular Aquarium Maintenance

    Fish are some of the easiest pets to keep, but they do require some care and attention from time to time. Once your aquarium has been set up and allowed to complete the nitrogen cycle, weekly or monthly maintenance is required to keep fish happy and healthy. How often you need to perform maintenance depends on the amount of bioload in the aquarium and how nutrients are being exported or processed.

    For the most part, beneficial bacteria are efficient at their job of converting ammonia into nitrite and nitrate. However, larger particles, like fish poop, need to be manually removed.

    One of the best ways to remove fish poop is by using an aquarium vacuum cleaner. This piece of equipment includes a plastic nozzle with long tubing and works through siphon physics. Check out the video below from Lifewithpets showing how to use a gravel vacuum.

    Simply start a siphon by placing water into the nuzzle, lifting the nuzzle upwards so that the water can drain through the tubing, and placing the nozzle back into the aquarium before the remaining draining water can empty the tubing. This will create a continuous pull of water from the fish tank into another container (so long as the container is at a lower level than the nozzle). Alternatively, hobbyists can place the nozzle in the aquarium water and suck the end of the tubing until a circuit is created. Obviously, this can lead to some water getting in your mouth and potential ingestion (perform at your own risk)!

    A regular vacuuming schedule can keep your tank clean and water parameters in check. It is not necessary to vacuum your substrate during every weekly or biweekly water change and some hobbyists choose to only do so when there are obvious accumulations of fish poop. Limiting substrate cleanings can also be beneficial when dealing with a sand substrate that can easily be kicked up and unintentionally siphoned.

    Otherwise, 15-25% weekly or biweekly water changes will keep water parameters where they need to be. Water changes are especially helpful for removing nitrate, which can’t be naturally processed in freshwater aquariums without the help of live plants.

    Water Flow

    Water flow will not remove fish poop, but can greatly help with its collection of it.

    The problem with fish poop is that it sinks to the bottom and gets stuck under rocks and other decorations. Once there, it can’t be easily reached with a gravel vacuum and it’s left to rot and contaminate the water. Adding additional water flow and circulation at all levels of the aquarium can help fish poop and other uneaten food from accumulating.

    Additional water flow can be added through increased or greater filtration, air stones, or powerheads.

    An aquarium can never have too much filtration, but it can have too much or too little water flow. For most setups, water flow should be moderate throughout both the length and height of the aquarium. There should be enough flow to keep objects from settling on the substrate and passing nutrients through live plants, but not enough to make swimming difficult for your fish.

    Filter returns and powerheads help to create constant and random movement throughout the aquarium; a larger filter or several filters may be needed to create a desired random effect. At the same time, the filter intake may be placed in an area and level for the best waste intake while air stones can be used to bring circulation to dead zones.

    Live Plants

    One of the most understated ways to keep your aquarium clean and to get rid of fish poop is to keep live plants. Many inexperienced hobbyists think live plants are demanding in regards to lighting and water parameters, but there are many species that can survive even the worst beginner’s mistakes.

    Live plants can process ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Each nutrient facilitates a different physiological process for the plant, leading to growth and propagation. Because of their constant need for nutrients, many hobbyists typically keep their planted tanks at 20 ppm nitrate. Limited nutrients can lead to stunted growth.

    While some fish keepers need to dose their aquariums with fertilizers to achieve these levels, others allow their fish to do the work for them. Fish poop is a natural and necessary addition to these systems, though too much can still lead to dangerous conditions.

    Live plants are so efficient at processing fish poop and other organic leftovers that some hobbyists use them to help cycle their aquariums. This is often called a ghost cycle as the plants uptake nutrients before they can be observed through water testing. This is quantifiable proof that live plants, in fact, help take nutrients out of the water!

    In addition to helping keep the fish tank clean, live plants also process carbon dioxide into oxygen and provide shelter and food for fish and invertebrates.

    Final Thoughts

    Sadly, there are no fish or invertebrates that eat fish poop. The only way to get rid of fish poop is by regularly cleaning the tank with a gravel vacuum, increasing and optimizing water flow, and adding live plants to help uptake excess nutrients.

    While it might look like your fish is trying to eat poop off the substrate, it may be mistaking it for food. In this case, make sure that your fish is receiving adequate food and nutritional value as it may be hungry.

    References

  • How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead: 6 Reliable Ways

    How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead: 6 Reliable Ways

    I’ve had mystery snails fake me out more times than I can count. You’ll find them sealed up tight with their operculum, completely motionless, and every instinct says something is wrong. but they’re just dormant. After keeping snails in my tanks for years, I’ve learned the difference between a snail that needs time and a snail that’s actually dead, and there are a few reliable tells that remove most of the guesswork.

    Snails have a reputation for making you second-guess yourself. Mystery snails especially will seal themselves up with their operculum and go dormant for days. sometimes weeks. and look completely dead the whole time. I’ve been fooled more than once. After 25 years of keeping everything from nerite snails to giant apple snails, I can tell you the smell test is still the most reliable method, as unpleasant as that sounds. Here are six ways to tell if your snail has actually died.

    Key Takeaways

    • The smell is the most obvious way to tell if a aquarium snail is dead in your aquarium
    • When snails die, they release a large amount of ammonia. Death of a large snail or numerous snails may require a water change
    • Old age is the most common reason for a snail’s death in an aquarium

    How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead – 6 Ways To Tell

    Here are 6 obvious signs to see if your snail is dead or just sleeping. You can check out YouTube video below. We also go into further detail in our blog post. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week.

    1. Smell Test

    The smell test gives the most authentic results. If you suspect that your snail is dead, take a sniff and you’ll know.

    That’s because dead snails produce a lot of Ammonia and decompose very quickly, leaving behind a pungent smell like rotting food. I also advise testing your tank water because there are high chances of Ammonia spike that require immediate water change after removing the dead snail.

    You can also sniff the foot of your snail if the shell doesn’t smell bad. A dead snail’s body, especially the foot will smell equally bad. However, poor water quality can also add to a stinky foot.

    If your snail is alive but has smelly feet, consider doing partial water changes.

    2. Examine The Body

    Look out the snail’s shell and body closely. When a snail dies, its body shrinks into the shell and then slowly decomposes. Look at the opening of the shell, if you cannot spot the body inside, it is most likely a dead snail. Also, when you hold the snail and it feels very light with nothing inside, the snail has died.

    Golden Apple Snail

    If the body shrinks, the snail produces a lot of ammonia shortly. Thus, immediate partial water changes and filtration is required to keep things at bay.

    3. Check The Trap Door

    This option is well suited for larger snail varieties such as Mystery snails or Apple snails. Carefully tug at the trap door of your snail. If it’s alive, you will feel resistance. But if it opens easily, the snail is dead.

    4. Transport Your Pet To A New Environment

    Another effective method to check if a snail is dead is to move it to a new environment. You can transport your snail to a smaller or larger aquarium or container with different water parameters.

    The change in water parameters and overall environment would entice curiosity in your snail and it will most likely wake up to explore its new environment.

    5. Check If They React

    Snails, almost like all living things, react to certain external stimuli. And so, you can tap the snail shell carefully to see if it reacts. Or you can also try tickling its belly to check if it retracts. If it does, there’s nothing to worry. But if it remains motionless, your snail is dead.

    6. Light Test

    You can try holding the snail in your hands and exposing it against the flashlight or light bulb. If you see no matter inside or if the body is slightly shrunken, the snail is most likely dead.

    How Long Can They Go Without Moving?

    In the wild, snails hibernate for around three years or longer without moving. However, aquarium snails sleep or remain inactive for around two weeks. The inactivity may be a result of a number of factors.

    Most snails don’t move for approx three to four days as a result of transportation. Freshly introduced Nerite snails don’t move when added to a new ecosystem.

    Why Do They Die?

    There are many reasons for a snail to be dead in your aquarium.

    1. Old age is one of the most common causes.
    2. Snails are extremely sensitive to high levels of toxins in the water, so if you neglect regular water changes in your tank and the water’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels rise, your snails and some of your fish could die.
    3. Algae and debris are not sufficient for the survival of snails. Your snails risk starvation if not fed properly.
    4. Many fish treatments contain copper, which can be fatal to plants and snails. Fish that require treatment should be put into a quarantine tank rather than your display tank since those medications include copper.
    5. Warm water is required by tropical snails. Your snails will die if the water in your aquarium is too cold. below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.

    What To Do With Deceased Ones?

    The soft component of a dead snail is typically damaged or melted away when it decomposes. The snail in hibernation has a membrane within and its shell will be extremely fragile. If the snail has been dead for a while, all you find are empty shells.

    You must remove any dead snails from the tank or the vicinity right away, whether they are in the water or on land, especially if there are other snails or marine animals nearby (in the case of an aquarium).

    To avoid contaminating the water or sand for the other snails or animals, make it a point to completely change the water or sand.

    The dead snail body may occasionally be consumed by the fish in your tank before it turns poisonous to them. If not, quickly remove the dead snail before it contaminates the water.

    I advise avoiding removing the shells from the water because they don’t deteriorate and add beauty to your aquarium. In addition to being useful as raw materials for numerous goods, snail shells are also quite aesthetically beautiful and can be utilized for clothing and home dรฉcor.

    How To Distinguish Between A Dead Snail And A Hibernating One?

    Nerite and mystery snails frequently go dormant for days at a time in aquariums. By examining its shell, you can tell a hibernating snail from a dead one. The shell of a dead snail is discolored, weightless, and lifeless.

    Even while the snail is hibernating, its slime keeps it glued to objects. However, dead snails don’t have clingy slime, thus they float away from any surface more frequently. In any case, don’t be too quick to discard your snail. It needs time to wake up.

    Pro tip: A snail in hibernation will stay put, won't emerge from its shell, and will instead stay affixed to a surface. A dead snail, on the other hand, is unable to adhere to any surface and will remain stationary.

    Why Do They Float?

    Many novice snail keepers often ask “Is my floating snail dead?” Today I’m going to answer this question.

    Many aquarium snail species float. including mystery snails that occasionally float (video source). So, Good news! Your snail might not actually be dead. Because they can store air inside their shells, snails have enough buoyancy to float.

    Some snail species in nature purposefully float on the water’s surface so that they can be carried along by the current and move more quickly, perhaps in quest of better eating grounds.

    In captivity, hunger is a frequent reason why snails float at the water’s surface, often upside down as they attempt to catch dangling food pieces.

    Snails cannot thrive on algae alone, contrary to popular belief. To help keep the snails’ shells in good condition, be sure to add vegetables and other high-calcium foods to their diet.

    Lift a floating snail carefully out of the water and give the shell a sniff if you’re unsure whether it’s alive or dead. If it doesn’t stink keep your snail floating.

    How To Improve The Health Of Your Tank Pet?

    Snails need clean, filtered, oxygenated water to stay healthy, just like your fish do.

    Therefore, to maintain a clean environment, be sure to properly maintain your aquarium filtration system, perform weekly partial water changes, and completely vacuum the substrate.

    Snails can handle water temperatures between 65ยฐ and 82ยฐ Fahrenheit and prefer a pH level close to 7.0.

    Despite their small size, each of your snails needs at least 2.5 liters of water. That makes sure the mollusks won’t go hungry and gives each snail plenty of room to forage.

    Leave a six-inch area below the tank lid or cover slide so that the snails can deposit eggs if you wish them to reproduce. Examine the aquarium lid and seal any openings that the snails might use to elude capture.

    Aquatic snails may live for a short time without water, but eventually, they will become dehydrated and pass away.

    Choose Tank mates Carefully

    If you raise an aquarium snail, be selective with your tankmates. Avoid fish including puffers, cichlids, goldfish, and some catfish that feed on snails.

    FAQs

    How Do I Know If They Have Died?

    First of all, if your snail is not moving. You can try doing the following things to see if it’s dead.

    1) Sniff the snail’s shell or feet to see if any foul smell is coming. If yes, your snail is dead. If no, it’s alive.

    2) Examine the snail’s body properly. If it’s shrunken, your snail is no more. If not, it’s still there.

    3) For larger snails, you can tug at the trapdoor to see any reaction or you can even transport your snail to a new fish tank or aquarium with different water parameters to see if it reacts.

    4) Check out the snail shell with the help of flashlight to see if there’s any matter inside the shell.

    What Do They Look Like When They Pass Away?

    A dead snail snail is the one with empty shells. When the snail is found hanging out of their shells or their shells are crushed, they are most likely dead. The dead snail are no longer slimy and have a different color that is darker than the original.

    How Do You Know They Are Alive?

    1) If the snail does not stink
    2) If it reacts on external stimuli
    3) Here’s a little test to check if your snail is alive:

    Lift your snail out of the water and very carefully bring the back foot toward you, if the snail retracts, it’s alive.

    Why Are They Not Moving?

    A snail typically won’t move or emerge from its shell because of the low temperature. Nerite snails and mystery snails prefer temperatures of 76 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit. They must hibernate because of the drop in temperature.

    However, your snail will die below 23ยฐF. If it’s too cold, put the snail in warm water to help it emerge from its shell and begin moving.

    Is My Pet Dead Or Sleeping?

    Your snail is probably sleeping, hibernating, or relaxing if it isn’t moving and is still clinging to the aquarium glass or decorations.

    Why Did My Nerite Ones Die?

    There are four possible reasons for your Nerite snails to die.

    1. Nerite snails are extremely sensitive. As a result, nerite snails will eventually die in the aquarium if even a small amount of copper is present.
    2. A nerite snail has a higher likelihood of dying if there is an excess of Nitrate and Ammonia.
    3. Poor water conditions for your nerite snails
    4. Since they are natural algae eaters, if you completely remove or filter out the algae from your aquarium, they will eventually die.

    Final Thoughts

    Freshwater snails are very popular in the freshwater fishkeeping niche. And now you know why!

    Their fascinating and peaceful appearance is a go-ahead for any aquarists to raise them as pets. Now you know how to tell if a snail is dead or sleeping or hibernating or peacefully floating, things would be much easier for you.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 15 Best Molly Fish Tank Mates (Expert Guide)

    15 Best Molly Fish Tank Mates (Expert Guide)

    Molly Fish tank mates need to handle hard, alkaline water. That eliminates most soft water species immediately. The number one mistake is mixing them with fish that need the opposite water chemistry.

    Pick tank mates that thrive in the same water as mollies. Do not force soft water fish into hard water.

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose peaceful, similar-sized fish when choosing tank mates for your molly fish.
    • Be careful not to overstock your aquarium by adding too many fish. 30 gallons is a good starting size for a great molly fish community tank.
    • Make sure all the fish you want to keep will be happy in the same conditions and parameters.

    Choosing Molly Fish Tank Mates – What You Need To Know

    Choosing the best tank mates for molly fish is all about understanding their needs and the other species you want to add to their tank. We’ll be covering some amazing fish species later in this post, but let’s start by going over the thought process for choosing great tank mates.

    Temperament

    Some fish are more aggressive than others, so it’s important to choose fish with similar levels of aggression.

    Molly fish are peaceful but not shy. They can hold their own with fairly boisterous fish but should not be kept with aggressive fish or larger predatory species.

    Mollies are livebearers. They will eat their own young, but so will most other tank mates, so it is best to set up a breeding tank if you plan on breeding molly fish (video source).

    Mollies are peaceful, but they will often eat shrimp. You could try to keep them together in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding spaces, however.

    Size

    There is a general rule in the fish-keeping hobby. If a fish can fit in another fish’s mouth, they are not safe tank mates!

    Mollies grow from 4-6 inches long and are certainly capable of eating very small, slow-moving fish. Likewise, large fish can easily snack on your mollies. Choose similar-sized fish, although fast schooling fish like neon tetras are safe.

    Competition

    Molly fish are hardy and have a very healthy appetite. They are not likely to be outcompeted for food at meal times, but you might need to make sure other shy species are getting their fair share.

    Parameters & Tank Setup

    It is vitally important to compare the preferred water parameters of different fish before adding them together in a community fish tank. Some fish have very specific needs and just won’t survive in typical tropical fish tanks.

    Let’s take a look at the recommended water parameters for your molly fish:

    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (29 gallons+ recommended)
    • Water Flow: Low-Moderate

    Molly fish can live in saltwater, but most other fish aren’t so flexible, so never mix fresh and saltwater fish in the same tank.

    15 Greatv Aquarium Mates

    Having considered all the information above, it’s time to dive in and meet 15 awesome freshwater fish that you can keep with mollies.

    Let’s get started!

    1. Dwarf Gourami

    <a href=Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-549383″/>
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Origin: Bangladesh, India, Pakistan
    • Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The dwarf gourami is a peaceful community fish with an interesting look. A pair of these colorful labyrinth fish would make a great addition to your molly fish community tank.

    Dwarf gouramis are relatives of the betta fish. They come in some amazing colors, including neon reds, blues, and orange tones. They are fairly shy and will do best in a planted aquarium.

    2. Guppy

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 1.75 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Guppies are ideal tankmates for your molly fish. Guppy fish are basically, the smaller, more colorful cousin of the molly fish. They are very easy to care for and will add loads of life to your tropical fish tank.

    Guppy fish are livebearers, just like mollies. They will breed regularly in your aquarium, although the fry are not likely to survive the hungry mouths of their larger tank mates.

    3. Platy

    Red Wagtail Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 77 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.2
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Platy fish are another small livebearer that are peaceful tank mates for mollies. There are many different platy breeds, often with bold shades of yellow, orange, and black. These undemanding fish are a great choice for a mixed livebearer tank.

    4. Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Neon tetras add a burst of bright color and activity to any freshwater tropical aquarium. These small schooling fish are peaceful and very easy to care for.

    Neon tetras prefer a lower pH than mollies, so they are not recommended for tanks with a pH over 7. These tiny tetras are strictly schooling fish, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6 to 10.

    5. Cardinal Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon axelrodi
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81 ยฐF
    • pH: 5.5 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The Cardinal tetra is another brightly colored tetra species from South America. They are a slightly larger and even more colorful relative of the neon tetra. These peaceful fish are a little more challenging to care for, and also come with a higher price tag.

    Cardinal Tetras reward the fishkeeper with amazing colors and a peaceful attitude. They make a wonderful tank mate for molly fish.

    6. Endler’s Livebearers

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Origin: Venezuela
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 86 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Endler’s livebearer fish are very similar to guppies, but do not grow as large and have different markings and fins. Endler’s livebearer fish are very confident, even though they are small fish. These peaceful nano fish make some of the best tank mates for mollies.

    7. Otocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Bottom & Glass
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Diet: Algae

    Otos are nano catfish that do a very important job in the aquarium. They are super-peaceful, and one of the only fish that will not eat your molly fry.

    These tiny fish eat algae on the glass and other surfaces in your aquarium to keep the tank looking neat and clean.

    8. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Origin: India
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Adult Size: 2 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 75 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Zebra danios are very fast and hardy tropical freshwater fish. These active community fish are great for adding heaps of movement to any community tank.

    Zebra danios are peaceful fish that will thrive on the same food and care as their live-bearing tank mates.

    9. Siamese Algae Eater

    • Scientific Name: Crossocheilus siamensis
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The Siamese algae eater is another excellent molly fish tank mate. Choose this peaceful fish species for keeping your tank clean and adding activity. Fish keepers also appreciate their ability to devour black beard algae (BBA) – something that very few aquarium fish will eat!

    Siamese algae eaters are very fast, active fish that will also enjoy prepared fish food like flakes and pellets. They grow up to 6 inches and they should be kept in school of at least 4 so keep them in a tank of 30 gallons or more.

    10. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 10 – 30 gallons depending on fish species
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 1 – 3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The corydoras catfish is a great addition to any peaceful community tank. These small bottom dwellers are super peaceful and will not bother your molly fish at all. Cory cats are very social fish, so you’ll need a school of at least 6 of the same species to see them acting at their confident best.

    Cory catfish come in tonnes of different species, ranging from the tiny midwater schoolers like the dwarf cory to the regular-sized species like bronze, Sterba’s, and panda cories.

    11. White Cloud Mountain Minnow

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Origin: China
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Upper/Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 72 ยฐF
    • pH: 6- 8
    • Diet: Omnivore

    White cloud mountain minnows are excellent community fish for cooler water conditions. These graceful schooling fish tend to hang out in middle to upper layers of the water column.

    White clouds are easy to care for and come in a cool long-finned variety as well as a gold color morph. They will not make good tank mates with tropical fish but they will be happy at 68 – 72 degrees which is the lower limit for your molly fish.

    12. Harlequin Rasboras

    • Scientific Name: Rasbora heteromorpha
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Upper/Middle
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 77 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Harlequin rasboras are hardy schooling fish that make a great addition to a molly fish community tank. These colorful fish have a rich orange body color with a bold black triangular marking on each side.

    They enjoy similar water parameters to molly fish but will do best towards the lower end of the pH and water temperature range. Add a school of 8 or more to enjoy their beautiful schooling behavior.

    13. Bristle Nose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Are you looking for a unique bottom dweller to add to your molly fish tank? Look no further than the weird and wonderful bristle nose pleco! These small armored catfish spend their time hanging out at the bottom of the tank.

    They graze on algae and driftwood, and won’t bother your mollies, although you should only keep one pleco in the tank to avoid any fighting. Just make sure you pick up a bristle nose pleco rather than a larger species.

    14. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle/upper
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • Water Temperature: 64 -82 ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.3
    • Diet: Omnivore

    The swordtail is yet another great livebearer for freshwater tanks. They are extremely peaceful and come in an exciting array of different colors and breeds. Swordtails are a little smaller than mollies and the males have a long, distinctive tail which is where they get their name.

    These hardy fish are very easy to care for and won’t interbreed with your mollies. Swordtails enjoy very similar water parameters too, so you won’t need to worry about the two being comfortable in the same tank.

    15. Tiger Barbs

    Tiger Barb Fish
    • Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79 ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Diet: Omnivore

    Tiger barbs have a reputation for being a little mean towards other fish, but fortunately, mollies are tough and hardy, so they can handle themselves just fine. However, make sure to keep your tiger barbs in a school of at least 6 (preferably more) to prevent any aggression.

    Community Aquarium Setup

    Are you ready to set up your own molly fish community tank? Let’s take a look at what you will need!

    Aquarium Size

    Molly fish are often kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, although I would recommend starting at 30 gallons for a small community setup. A 55-gallon tank would be a better option if you want to have a few different fish species in schools.

    Heating

    Molly fish require a heater in most homes. If you live in a warm area, you is able to keep molly fish in an unheated aquarium with other fish species like white cloud minnows, swordtails, and zebra danios.

    A reliable heater is a safer bet because it allows you to maintain a healthy, stable temperature for your fish. An electric thermometer with an alarm that sounds when the water gets too cool is very useful as a reminder if you’re going to be switching off your heater for the summer.

    Filtration

    Good filtration is the difference between a healthy vibrant tank and a toxic environment. Invest in good filtration if you want the best for the fish in your molly community tank.

    A large sponge filter (or two) is a doable option for your molly community tank, but a hang-on back or canister filter is going to provide much better mechanical filtration in larger aquariums.

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    Don’t be afraid to run two different filters in your community tank. Overfiltering is a great way to keep your water quality high, although you should take care to keep your water flow down to low or moderate levels.

    Decorations and Substrate

    Adding decorations and substrate is a great way to make your molly community tank a more interesting environment for your fish, and a more appealing display for you and your family.

    You can let your creativity run wild when arranging your layout, or take a more natural approach to recreate the wild environment of your fish.

    Whichever route you take, make sure you use fish-safe products that are designed for aquarium use. You can design a beautiful layout by using a combination of the following materials:

    • Substrate: Sand, gravel, or aquarium soil
    • Driftwood: Spiderwood, manzanita, etc.
    • Rocks: Dragon stone, seiryu, lava rock, etc.
    • Ornaments/decorations: Caves, sunken ships, castles, etc.

    Live plants

    Live plants make the difference between a good aquarium and a great aquarium. They might not be for everyone, but aquarium plants is remarkably easy to care for and provide some amazing benefits for your fish.

    Start with the following species if you’re new to growing live plants:

    • Java Fern – A low-maintenance epiphyte
    • Amazon Sword – A large-leaved rosette plant
    • Water Wisteria – A fast-growing stem plant

    Feeding your fish

    Molly fish are very easy to feed, like most of the recommended tank mates in this post. They will thrive on a diet of high-quality prepared foods like flakes or pellets. Feed your fish once or twice a day, providing only enough food for them to finish in a minute or two.

    Supplement your fish’s diet with occasional treats like frozen foods, baby brine shrimp, blood worms, and other insect larvae. It will improve their condition, and they’ll love it too!

    Some fish have specialized diets, and the otocinclus catfish mentioned in this article is a good example.

    These tiny catfish only eat algae, so they need to be kept in a mature, healthy aquarium with a good supply of natural algae. They can also be fed with vegetables like zucchini and other algae foods like wafers.

    Where To Buy Aquarium Mates

    All the fish in this list of tank mates for molly fish were selected to be easy to care for and easy to locate. You should have no trouble finding them at most pet stores, but consider buying from some of my recommended online dealers for a hassle-free online shopping experience! Flip Aquatics gets my full recommendation as they quarantine all their livestock.

    FAQs

    What Fish Can Mollies Live With?

    Mollies can live with a variety of other fish species. Popular compatible fish include other livebearers and small schooling fish like tetras and corydoras catfish.

    Do Mollies Need Aquarim Mates?

    Mollies do not need tank mates, although they are a great community fish species. However, you should not keep just a single molly because these fish prefer to live in groups with their own species.

    How Many Mollies Should Be Kept Together?

    It is best to keep a minimum of 3 mollies, although you can keep a much larger school if you have a large aquarium. Keep one male molly fish and two or three female molly fish in a smaller tank.

    Do Mollies Eat Other Fish?

    Mollies do not eat other fish although they will eat anything slow enough and small enough to swallow. They will feed on baby fish fry.

    Can Black Mollies Live With Other Companions?

    Black molly fish make great community fish. They is kept with the same tank mates as other molly breeds like sailfin molly fish and balloon molly fish.

    Are Mollies Bottom-Dwelling?

    Molly fish hang out in the middle layers of the aquarium. However, they will explore and forage in all layers of your fish tank.

    Final Thoughts

    Molly fish are one of the most popular species in the aquarium hobby for a good reason. These fascinating and hardy pets get along great with many other fish species. Pick tank mates from this list for your own community aquarium and enjoy everything these fish have to offer!

    Do you keep molly fish in a community tank? Tell us about your favorite tank mates in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Electric Blue Acara: Complete Care Guide (With Expert Tips)

    Electric Blue Acara: Complete Care Guide (With Expert Tips)

    Table of Contents

    Electric blue acaras are one of the best cichlids for community tanks, but that does not mean they are easy. They still dig, still get territorial during breeding, and still need clean water to keep that color. I have seen too many people treat them as a beginner fish and then wonder why their acara looks washed out and hides all day. Get the setup right and this fish is incredible. Get it wrong and you will never see what it is capable of. The cichlid that finally made peaceful and stunning work in the same sentence.

    The cichlid that finally made ‘peaceful’ and ‘stunning’ work in the same sentence.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Electric Blue Acara

    The misconception I encounter most with electric blue acaras is that they’re as aggressive as other acaras. They’re not. The standard blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher) is a noticeably more assertive fish. The electric blue variant has been selectively bred for color, and in that process, much of the aggression has been bred out. I’ve kept them successfully in community tanks with tetras and corydoras, which would be risky with a standard blue acara. The second myth is that they’re a naturally occurring species. They’re a line-bred color morph, and that selective breeding also means they is slightly less hardy than their wild-type cousins.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How big do electric blue acaras get?

    Electric blue acaras reach 5 to 7 inches in a home aquarium. Males are slightly larger than females. They reach close to full size within about a year with proper feeding and water quality.

    Are electric blue acaras aggressive?

    They are one of the most peaceful cichlids available. While they can hold their own, they rarely start conflicts and do well in community setups with similarly sized fish. Minor territorial behavior may appear during breeding, but it is mild compared to most cichlids.

    What tank size does an electric blue acara need?

    A single electric blue acara needs at least a 30-gallon tank. For a pair or community setup, 55 gallons or more is recommended to give them enough swimming room and territory.

    Can electric blue acaras live with other cichlids?

    Yes, they pair well with other peaceful to moderately aggressive cichlids like Bolivian rams, keyhole cichlids, and severums. Avoid housing them with highly aggressive species like Jack Dempseys or large Central American cichlids that will bully them.

    Are electric blue acaras hard to keep?

    No, they are considered beginner-friendly for cichlid keepers. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters, accept most foods readily, and are hardy against common diseases. Their peaceful nature also makes community planning easier.

    The Reality of Keeping Electric Blue Acara

    The Electric Blue Acara gets marketed as the perfect beginner cichlid, and honestly, it is closer to that than most. But there are still realities you need to face before buying one.

    They are a selectively bred variant. The Electric Blue Acara is not a wild species. It is a line-bred color morph, and that means genetic quality varies enormously between breeders. Cheap EBAs from mass-production farms often have weaker immune systems and less vibrant color than specimens from quality breeders.

    They still establish territories. Yes, they are peaceful for a cichlid. No, that does not mean they are pushovers. A breeding pair of EBAs will absolutely defend their territory against anything that comes too close. In a small tank, this means the rest of your fish get bullied.

    Water quality shows immediately. When an EBA is stressed or in poor water, the first thing you notice is color loss. That electric blue fades to a dull gray-blue. If your fish is losing color, test your water before anything else.

    They are diggers. EBAs rearrange substrate and uproot plants. If you have a carefully aquascaped tank with delicate stem plants, be prepared for some redecorating. Use hardy, well-rooted plants or attach plants to hardscape.

    Biggest Mistake New Electric Blue Acara Owners Make

    Keeping them in a tank that is too small. A single EBA needs 30 gallons minimum. A pair needs 40 to 55. Cramming them into a 20 gallon causes territorial stress that ruins their color and temperament.

    Expert Take

    Pair an Electric Blue Acara with a school of larger tetras like Colombians or Congos, add some corydoras, and plant the tank heavily. This is one of the most visually stunning and behaviorally interesting community setups you can build in freshwater.

    Key Takeaways

    • Electric blue acaras are a type of hybrid South American cichlid.
    • These fish are very popular due to their intense coloration, compatible demeanor, and ease of breeding.
    • The electric blue acara is a large fish that needs plenty of open swimming space and decorations to rearrange.

    A Quick Overview On The Electric Blue Acara

    Scientific NameAndinoacara pulcher
    Common NamesElectric blue acara, Blue acara, Acara
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginUnnaturally occurring (Hybridization of a South American cichlid species)
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityActive
    Lifespan7 to 10 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive
    Tank LevelMiddle to bottom
    Minimum Tank Size40 gallons
    Temperature Range74ยฐ F to 82ยฐ F
    Water Hardness2 to 10 KH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow to moderate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilitySemi-aggressive community tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With caution

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyCichlinae
    GenusAndinoacara
    SpeciesA. Pulcher (Gill, 1858)

    What Is Are They?

    The electric blue acara is not a naturally occurring fish. This is a hybrid mainly derived from the naturally occurring blue acara, Andinoacara pulcher; it is believed that they were mixed with blue ram cichlids (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) at some point as well. This means that the electric blue acara cannot be found in nature and has been bred for its color expression within the aquarium hobby.

    While a hybrid, the electric blue acara is still regarded as the Andinoacara pulcher species. They are members of the Cichlidae family and a type of South American cichlid.

    In the aquarium hobby, the electric blue acara is a favorite cichlid to keep due to its bright coloration, hardiness, conforming temperament, and easy breeding. Unlike other similar South American cichlids that are mouth brooders, the electric blue acara is an egg layer that displays excellent parental care.

    When shopping for your electric blue acara, make sure to confirm whether it is a hybrid or the parent species. Some fish stores may label this species as blue acara or simply acara, which is confusing.

    Origin and Habitat

    The electric blue acara (video source) may not occur in the wild, but its closest relative, the blue acara, does. The blue acara originates from South America, mainly throughout parts of mainland Venezuela and off the coast in Trinidad and Tobago. They have also been documented in several other countries as nonnatives, but little documentation of their range exists.

    In these countries, the blue acara is found in a variety of ecosystems. These conditions range from murky, standstill waters to clear and running rivers. As a South American cichlid, the blue acara prefers softer and more acidic water parameters.

    Appearance

    What makes the electric blue acara so appealing to hobbyists is its colors. These fish are a flash of brilliant light in the aquarium with their bright blue bodies!

    How Does An Electric Blue Acara Look Like

    The electric blue acara was hybridized from a series of overly bright and colorful blue acara as well as blue rams. This led to their almost-metallic pale blue body color; some fish may have underlying hints of yellow or orange. Lower-grade acaras will even have patches of blue missing, revealing sections of black and grey.

    Electric blue acaras have relatively large fins with respect to their body size. Mature males have a longer and more pointed dorsal fin while females have smaller fins overall. They can both display a yellow or orange margin on the top of the dorsal fin.

    This difference in size is not always a tried and true method to tell male and female fish apart, though, especially if they’re still juveniles. As we’ll see, male and female pairs will need to form on their own in most scenarios.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Don’t be mistaken by the popularity of dwarf South American cichlids. The electric blue acara is a full-grown member of the cichlid family, growing to be about 6 to 7 inches on average. These freshwater fish are not dwarf cichlids and cannot be kept in nano tank conditions!

    How Long Do They Live?

    On top of being a relatively big fish, electric blue acaras can live for a surprisingly long time. On average, these fish live to be anywhere from 7 to 10 years old. They are very hardy and will thrive in an established and well-maintained freshwater setup.

    Care

    The electric blue acara is a hardy fish without many needs. Remember, blue acaras is found in a variety of environmental conditions, which means that these freshwater fish can also adapt to most aquarium conditions.

    All in all, the electric blue acara has very basic cichlid care requirements.

    Aquarium Setup

    While you will have a perfect aquarium setup in mind for your new electric blue acara, your fish will have other plans. Like other cichlids, electric blues will rearrange the tank to how they like it, especially during spawning periods.

    Electric blue acaras are relatively large fish that enjoy their swimming space. They mainly stay towards the bottom of the tank but will venture into the upper middle portions at times.

    The best electric blue acara tank will have a minimal design with open space that accents the natural colors and behaviors of the fish. This includes a sand substrate along with driftwood or rock for decoration.

    Electric blue acaras can successfully be kept with live plants, but only species that mind being uprooted from time to time. Because of this, hobbyists only keep floating plants with their cichlids.

    Good live plants for electric blue acaras include:

    These fish don’t need a lot of plant coverage, but a backdrop of green will especially make their colors pop out. Floating plants is helpful for dimming lighting conditions and making fish feel more like in their natural habitat.

    Otherwise, electric blues can absolutely be kept in a community tank. I’d actually call them one of the most community-friendly cichlids in the hobby setting as long as small fish species are able to find protection in size, a school, or in decorations.

    Tank Size

    There are many ways to set up a tank with the electric blue acara in mind. Hobbyists use this fish species as the showpiece of the display, with all other species being catered towards them. Other hobbyists keep only electric blue acaras in their tanks and let them breed.

    The bare minimum tank size for an electric blue breeding tank is 40 gallons. This allows for the male and female fish as well as the fry until they are big enough to stop receiving parental care. If planning on keeping a pair of electric blue acaras in a community tank with other species, then at least 55 gallons is recommended with a larger tank size being much more preferred.

    Electric blue acara are active swimmers that need a lot of open space to enjoy. As a cichlid species, they can also be territorial, especially the males during spawning times. To help prevent any possible aggression from this otherwise peaceful fish, a larger tank will allow for more space between tank mates.

    Water Parameters

    The electric blue acara is a hardy fish that adapts to most aquarium water conditions. They are regarded as a beginner cichlid species, forgiving imperfections and wavering water parameters. That being said, they cannot tolerate ammonia or nitrite and breeding will demand more specific parameters.

    To keep your electric blue as happy and healthy as possible, imitate the conditions found in the blue acara’s natural habitat in South America. This means soft, acidic water with water hardness between 2 and 10 KH and pH between 6.0 to 7.0. They are tropical fish and need a tropical water temperature between 74ยฐ F to 82ยฐ F.

    Tank Maintenance

    A weekly or biweekly 15 to 25% water change should be performed to keep nitrates low and to keep water quality up. Live plants will help keep nitrate levels from rising, but the rest will need to be manually removed. Most tanks do well with under 20 ppm nitrate.

    At the same time as the water change, the substrate should be vacuumed to remove uneaten food and other wastes that will have accumulated. Because these are bigger fish, they’ll eat bigger foods that cause a lot more nutrients to enter the water column if left to rot.

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    Filtration and other aquarium equipment should also be cleaned every few months depending on waste and algae buildup.

    Filtration and Aeration

    Electric blue acaras do well with a hang on the back or canister filter. They do not have any special filtration needs other than regular maintenance.

    This filter should be rated for at least 2x the size of the tank as these are relatively big fish. Electric blue acaras do best in a slow to medium flow, though they can adapt to higher water currents as long as there are areas of lower flow throughout the aquarium. Also, note that a higher flow can upset a sand substrate in addition to the disruption caused by your fish.

    Additional aeration is not necessary but an air stone is used to help circulate lower portions of the tank and to add aesthetic.

    Lighting

    Though these colorful fish look best under high lighting, they prefer low to medium light settings. Because hobbyists don’t keep light-demanding plant species with electric blue acaras, there is no recommended light setup; these fish will thrive under a fluorescent or LED light fixture.

    If the light fixture is too intense, then floating plants and other aquarium decorations is used to diffuse bright areas. A low water flow in addition to high lighting can fuel algae growth.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    As mentioned before, electric blue acara is kept with a variety of live plants. The problem is that these fish regularly uproot and disturb their surroundings, so the species of plants kept must be able to tolerate some rough handling.

    Again, some of the best species include Anubias, Java fern, and hornwort. Though hobbyists may try to tie or glue these plants down, your fish will rearrange the tank to its liking eventually.

    The same is said about the aquarium decorations used. Most cichlid enthusiasts keep their tanks simple with rocks, like Texas holey rock, ceramic flower pots, and driftwood. Electric blues will likely claim a piece of this real estate for themselves and guard it against other tank mates, though in a passive manner. During spawning times, electric blue acara will become noticeably more aggressive and territorial.

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    Substrate

    Almost all cichlids love to burrow in the sand. Some even create breeding pits where they spawn, including the electric blue acara.

    These aquarium fish will do best on a sandy substrate where they are free to change their surroundings based on their own preferences. This can certainly become messy at times and leave the controlling aquascaper frustrated. However, gravel can frustrate the fish and even injure them.

    Is the Electric Blue Acara Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • One of the best cichlids for community tanks. Their mild temperament makes them compatible with a wide range of peaceful to semi-aggressive species.
    • Stunning color that rivals saltwater fish. The iridescent blue coloration is genuinely breathtaking under good lighting.
    • Perfect for keepers who want a cichlid without the drama. If you like the personality of cichlids but don’t want to manage aggression, this is your fish.
    • Needs a 30-gallon minimum. They reach about 6-7 inches, so they need more space than most dwarf cichlids.
    • Not the hardiest cichlid available. Their selective breeding means they can be slightly more sensitive to water quality swings than wild-type species.
    • Excellent for planted tanks. Unlike many cichlids, they leave plants alone and look spectacular against green backgrounds.

    Food and Diet

    One of the best things about electric blue acara is that they eat anything you offer them! These fish are not picky and are a joy to watch eat. That being said, they need a high-quality diet to keep their colors shining brightest.

    Electric blues will appreciate a variety of live, freeze-dried, and frozen foods. They are larger fish that need to be fed several times throughout the day. To help keep costs down, a high-quality fish food flake or pellet may be given regularly. Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, bloodworms, earthworms, and even fresh pieces of mollusk and fish may be given as a treat.

    A poor diet will not result in the best colors and may affect the success of broods and the spawning process.

    Community Tank Mates

    Electric blue acaras are a favorite cichlid due to their passive demeanor. They is kept with an assortment of tank mates, both bigger and smaller, more active and less active.

    The best electric blue acara community tank mates include:

    They have even been safely kept with larger invertebrates, including dwarf crayfish and nerite snails.

    If you’re looking for a cichlid-tank setup, then here are the best compatible cichlid species for your electric blue acara:

    Are They Aggressive?

    Though they are labeled as semi-aggressive fish, electric blues can be both ends of the spectrum when needed. In a community tank, these fish will be peaceful. When placed with more aggressive species, they will be able to hold their own.

    Can You Keep A Single By Itself?

    While electric blue acaras aren’t schooling fish, they definitely prefer to be in groups with their own kind. It is not recommended to only keep one single electric blue acara as this will cause stress in the form of aggression or reclusion.

    How Many Should You Have?

    Electric blue acaras are kept in pairs. However, males and females is difficult to tell apart, especially when they’re sold as juveniles in aquarium stores.

    To get the best breeding pair possible, many hobbyists purchase a small group of about 5 fish. As they mature, they naturally pair off on their own. This saves some confusion about sexing them and gives the hobbyist several pairs to choose from.

    In the end, though, most hobbyists only keep one pair due to males becoming aggressive towards each other.

    Poor Tank Mates

    While the electric blue acara is one of the most adaptable cichlid tank mates, they’re not right for every home aquarium setup. Poor tank mates are ones that can easily fit in an electric blue’s mouth or ones that are overly aggressive or that try to fight back!

    In addition, small invertebrates, like dwarf shrimp and snails, will also be seen as food for your electric blue acara.

    Breeding

    Breeding electric blue acara is fun and easy. Unlike other similar cichlids, the electric blue acara is an egg layer and not a mouthbrooder. These fish still display some excellent parenting, though! Check out the video below from Uri Shasha.

    The most challenging part about breeding electric blues is getting a good breeding pair. As mentioned before, it is difficult to tell the males apart from the females. Males are larger with more elongated and pointed dorsal fins, while females are smaller. Even as adults, these physical differences is hard to see.

    Luckily, electric blue acaras are monogamous fish that mate for life. They become sexually mature when they are 1 year old and about 4 inches.

    To get a breeding pair, it’s recommended to purchase a small group of juveniles and allow them to pair off on their own. Once mature, the best pair may be picked. These fish may then be bred in the main display aquarium or in a breeding tank. A 20-gallon breeding tank will allow for more control and overall success in keeping fry alive.

    In either case, the water temperature should be set to 77ยฐ F with a relatively neutral pH and slightly soft water. When ready, the female will lay her eggs on flat rocks or other accessible surfaces throughout the aquarium. One clutch includes about 100 to 200 eggs. The male will quickly fertilize them once laid.

    Over the course of the next two to three days, the parents will protect the eggs. It’s possible that they will create a pit in the substrate where they will move the fry once hatched. This can cause a lot of disruption to the substrate and aquascaping. During this time, males will become especially aggressive towards other tank mates, though won’t injure or kill them.

    After these few days, the eggs will hatch. The parents may move the fry to the pit or leave them where they are. The parents will continue to deliver care until the fry are fully free-swimming. Then, the parent electric blues will deliver food to the fry, so small foods, like baby brine shrimp, should be supplemented. At this point, the fry or the parents may be removed from the tank to increase survival chances. This is especially recommended if spawning these fish in the main display.

    Over the next two months, the baby fish will continue to develop. They should continue to be given small fry food, but can eventually be fed crushed fish flakes. Once big enough, the baby electric blue acaras is moved to the display aquarium or given to another hobbyist.

    The parent electric blues will be ready to mate again in a matter of weeks. Once they have started, they are likely to continue as long as water quality and other tank conditions are met.

    Common Health Problems

    Electric blue acaras are hardier than most fish. Because they’re hybrids, they exist only in the aquarium hobby and have been exposed to the most common health problems. Still, these fish are susceptible to freshwater ich and skin flukes. Luckily, these problems is easily treated and easily avoided.

    When purchasing an electric blue acara, make sure that its colors are bright and its behaviors are normal. These fish should be active and colorful. Always ask the store representative to watch them eat; if there is any refusal, the fish is most likely sick or stressed.

    As always, it’s recommended to quarantine new fish for at least three weeks before adding them to a new system.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Electric Blue Acara

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They greet you at the glass. EBAs are personable fish that learn your routine. They come to the front of the tank when you walk in the room, and some will eat from your hand with patience.

    Breeding is almost inevitable. If you have a male and female, they will breed. EBAs are prolific spawners that lay eggs on flat surfaces. The parents guard the eggs and fry aggressively, which changes the entire dynamic of a community tank.

    They are surprisingly compatible. I have kept EBAs with angelfish, rainbowfish, and even discus without issues. Their low-aggression profile makes them one of the most versatile cichlids in the hobby.

    Color intensity fluctuates. EBAs can look electric blue one minute and pale the next. Mood, lighting, diet, and water quality all affect their coloration in real time. Do not panic if they look washed out after a water change. It is temporary.

    How the Electric Blue Acara Compares to Similar Species

    The natural comparison is the standard blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher). The standard version is hardier, slightly more aggressive, and available wild-caught. Electric blue acaras are calmer and more colorful but is less robust due to selective breeding. If you want a community-friendly cichlid, the electric blue is the better choice. If you want maximum hardiness and don’t mind some territorial behavior, the standard blue acara is more forgiving.

    The German blue ram is another comparison for keepers wanting a colorful, peaceful cichlid. Rams are smaller (2-3 inches vs. 6-7 inches for the electric blue acara) and significantly more temperature-sensitive, needing 82ยฐF+ to thrive. Electric blue acaras are comfortable in the standard tropical range of 72-82ยฐF, making them easier to keep in mixed community tanks. For most keepers, the electric blue acara is the more practical choice. Similar beauty, less demanding care requirements, and a longer expected lifespan.

    Final Thoughts

    An electric blue acara in the wrong setup is just a grey fish hiding behind a rock.

    Electric blue acaras are an extremely popular hybrid cichlid. These beautiful fish are vibrant in coloration and behavior and are some of the easiest cichlids to breed. Electric blues are large fish, so they need to be given plenty of space, especially if planning to keep a pair with other tank mates. However, they is kept in a variety of tank setups and will accommodate the demeanors of other fish.

    South American Cichlid Species Directory

    This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

  • Comet Goldfish: Complete Care Guide (What You Need to Know)

    Comet Goldfish: Complete Care Guide (What You Need to Know)

    The Comet Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

    A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

    Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Table of Contents

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Comet Goldfish

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Most care sheets list the minimum tank size for Comet Goldfish and call it a day. But a minimum is just that. In my experience, giving them more room changes their behavior completely. You see more natural movement, less stress, and fewer aggression issues. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Comet Goldfish are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Keeping Comet Goldfish

    Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

    Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

    They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

    Expert Take

    The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

    Key Takeaways

    • The comet goldfish is named after its long and forked flowing tail.
    • These fish are most closely related to the common goldfish breed, meaning that they can grow in excess of a foot long and live long lives.
    • Like most goldfish, the comet goldfish creates a lot of waste and does best in a large aquarium or pond setting with strong filtration.

    Comet Goldfish Overview

    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    Common NamesComet goldfish, Comet-tailed goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan15+ years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels, mainly mid-level
    Minimum Tank Size55 gallons
    Temperature Range60ยบF to 72ยบF
    Water Hardness2 to 12 KH
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg-layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityCompatible with koi and other single-tail goldfish
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With caution

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NameComet Goldfish
    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    OrderCypriniformes
    FamilyCyprinidae
    GenusCarassius
    SpeciesC. Auratus

    What Is A Comet Goldfish?

    Most people have owned a goldfish at one point or another in their lives. But did you know that there are many different types of goldfish all with their own unique traits and characteristics?

    The comet goldfish is a common breed of goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus. These fish are very similar to the main breed of goldfish, the common goldfish. While these two fish are the same species, there are a few differences between them and other goldfish. As we’ll see, the main difference lies in the shape of their tail fin.

    Are They Good Pets?

    We is biased, but we think that all fish make good pets. They’re easy to keep, relatively inexpensive, low on time requirements, and make any area of the home come to life.

    Comet goldfish care is relatively straightforward, even for inexperienced keepers. As long as time and research are given to making preparations before impulsively buying the fish, then your comet goldfish should be with you as a pet for years to come.

    Why Are They So Cheap?

    If comet goldfish make good pets, then why are they so cheap? These fish are often given away as prizes or as supplementary food for larger fish. They are often sold for under a dollar and are found in nearly every pet store that carries fish. There are a few reasons why these fish are so cheap.

    The first reason is that comet goldfish are bred on a mass scale as primarily feeder fish. These fish are easy to breed and easy to keep, making them an ideal breed to retail as feeder fish. The problem is that they are often kept in poor conditions which leads them to be very sickly, subsequently spreading disease and illness to each other and to other fish.

    The other reason why comet goldfish are so cheap is that they’re not very desirable fish and take up a lot of space. We’re sad to say that there are many more beautiful fish other than the comet goldfish, including fancy goldfish. These fancier counterparts are more ornate and take up less space. This, in addition to the hundreds of other more colorful tropical fish available, leaves many hobbyists choosing something other than a cold water fish.

    Origin and Habitat

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Goldfish have been domesticated for hundreds of years for their colors and symbolism. These fish were and still are a sign of wealth and prosperity, though many hobbyists adore them for their extreme hardiness and variety of breeds.

    The first goldfish were domesticated from crucian carp. These carp originated in China from cold and shallow lakes and ponds. Crucian carp feature dusky brown and yellow coloration. Over time, the undertones of yellow and orange were selectively bred until arriving at the intense coloration of the common goldfish today.

    However, the breeding didnโ€™t stop there. There are estimated to be well over 100 breeds of goldfish, with the comet being one of the most closely related to the common goldfish.

    Comet goldfish and common goldfish do not naturally exist in the wild. In fact, no breed of goldfish exists in the wild. Sadly, many people are unaware of goldfishโ€™s true needs and release them into nearby streams and rivers. Many of these fish donโ€™t survive, but some do. This makes them an invasive species that will impact ecosystems on a large scale1

    Appearance

    The comet goldfish is one of the more basic-looking breeds of goldfish. There are a few differences between this breed and the common breed. The biggest difference lies in their fins.

    What Does A Comet Goldfish Look Like

    Comet goldfish have long and flowing fins that resemble the tail of an astronomical comet. This is in comparison to the common goldfishโ€™s short and triangular fins that follow close behind. The biggest difference between these two fins is that comets have a deeply forked tail fin while commonโ€™s have a slight indent in the middle.

    For the most part, common goldfish only come in typical goldfish-orange coloration. Comets offer more variety with orange, yellow, red, and white color patterns. 

    How Big Do They Get?

    One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a breed of goldfish is its potential size. Common goldfish can easily surpass a foot in length, though most stay about 10 inches on average.

    Because of their long, flowing fins, comet goldfish size is going to be slightly larger, reaching mature lengths of 12 inches. It should also be said that while these fish grow to be long, they can also grow to be pretty chunky too!

    Do They Stop Growing?

    Itโ€™s long been said that fish will only grow to be the size of the tank that theyโ€™re given.

    Or maybe youโ€™ve heard that fish will have externally stunted growth in small tanks, but that their organs keep growing on the inside.

    While this area of fish biology has been little studied, it is true that both these statements are false. The majority of fish, including goldfish, are indeterminate growers that continue to grow with age as long as environmental conditions allow. Though it might seem like your fish has comfortably grown into its tank, itโ€™s actually being stunted due to other factors, including limited space, poor water quality, and in diet. However, its organs will grow in relationship to its body.

    How Long Does It Take For Them Reach Full Size?

    This is a very common question as many aquarium keepers plan on growing out their goldfish until it’s ready for a bigger aquarium or pond. It’s important to know that goldfish grow rapidly and don’t stop.

    Comet goldfish can grow to their mature size in a matter of a year or two. A small fish can quickly become full-grown before you know it. Though a grow-out tank is ideal for an outdoor pond system to prevent predators from eating juveniles, this method is never recommended for a tank-to-tank transfer.

    How Long Do They Live?ย 

    Goldfish have extremely long lives and can live for a long time in less-than-perfect conditions. Comet goldfish can live about 15 years with many growing older than this. These fish are a long-term commitment and need to be given plenty of thought before being purchased.

    Color Variations

    Not all goldfish are gold. In fact, the comet goldfish comes in many different colors besides the traditional copper tone of the common breed. These fish is orange or yellow and have red and white color patterns. Some of these color combinations have been specifically bred with design in mind.

    These designer comet goldfish include:

    Sarasa comet goldfish. This variety has a white body with multiple solid bright red spots. This red coloration is on the dorsal portions of the fish but can extend to the underbelly as well.

    Tancho single-tail comet goldfish. The Tancho coloration is simple yet effective. These fish have a bright red cap on their head while the rest of the body stays iridescent white. This cap may be irregular in shape, sometimes splitting in half.

    Care Requirements

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Goldfish are an oxymoron. They are an easy fish species to keep, but their care requirements is surprisingly demanding. While comet goldfish are very hardy fish that can survive less-than-perfect water conditions, they require a lot of upkeep and maintenance to keep them happy and healthy.

    Aquarium Setup

    Goldfish setups are simple by design. These fish do best with tons of open swimming space, little to no decorations, and strong filtration. No matter what though, these fish cannot live in a goldfish bowl!

    Comet goldfish are inexpensive fish that are won at carnivals and fairs. They are sometimes even sold as feeder fish for other larger predatory species. Because of their inexpensive price and oftentimes small holding tanks, unknowing goldfish owners think that they don’t need an elaborate setup. While this is true, there are some conditions that need to be met.

    A good comet goldfish tank will be a large tank with an appropriate substrate, good water flow and aeration, correct water temperatures, and appropriate tank mates. Comet fish can also be kept in outdoor ponds as they hibernate over the cold months.

    Some goldfish enthusiasts keep live plants with their comets. Plants add many benefits to the home aquarium and are essential for keeping a natural environment in pond settings. However, goldfish love to eat and uproot plants, which can add additional waste to the system. Hardy and fast-growing species, like Anacharis and hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), is successfully kept in a goldfish aquarium.

    Tank Size

    Sadly, many goldfish are kept in improper tank sizes. These are large and active freshwater fish that create a lot of waste. They need space to move around and water volume to help keep ammonia and nitrite levels down.

    The minimum tank size recommended for one comet goldfish is a 55 gallon tank. This might seem like a lot, especially when the fish is only a few inches big. However, comet goldfish can grow to over 10 inches in the first couple of years of their life. Too many hobbyists purchase goldfish with the intention of getting a larger aquarium or building a pond. Many times, these plans fall through and the fish is left in too small of a tank (video source).

    In order to keep another comet goldfish, a 75 gallon tank is needed. In general, every additional fish requires another 40 gallons of water. This is why these fish will do best in a large pond setting, though it is possible to keep multiple comet goldfish long-term in the home aquarium.

    Water Parameters

    It’s important to goldfish aren’t tropical fish like many of the other species available in the aquarium hobby. They originate from cold waters and need to be kept in cooler conditions in the home aquarium setting. For experienced keepers, this means buying an aquarium chiller to help keep the water temperature down.

    The ideal water temperature range for comet goldfish is between 60ยบF and 72ยบF. Experienced keepers keep their comet goldfish tank above or below these values, but overly hot temperatures can lead to stress while cooler temperatures can lead to hibernation. Ambient room temperature is often enough to keep a goldfish aquarium heated, but extra stability is achieved through a low-range heater.

    On top of colder water temperatures, comet goldfish care relies heavily on maintaining ammonia and nitrite levels. These fish create a ton of waste through their diet and fast metabolism. Most oversized filtration can keep up with processing fish waste, but regular tank maintenance and weekly or daily water changes are also needed; most hobbyists perform upwards of 25% water changes at any given time.

    Lighting

    Comet goldfish do not require special lighting. Because they are not commonly kept with live plants, there is no need for high-tech equipment. Instead, comet goldfish can live under LED or fluorescent settings.

    There is a chance that your goldfish will change colors based on the intensity of the lighting; a darker light will cause your fish to become darker and vice versa.

    Filtration and Aeration

    One of the most important aspects of keeping comet goldfish is picking the right filtration. These are big fish with fast metabolisms that create a lot of waste. It is recommended to use filtration that is rated for at least 4x the size of the aquarium, with bigger always being better.

    Since hang-on-the-back filtration can become too big for the side of the tank, many goldfish keepers use a canister filter. Canister filters are also advantageous as the return nozzles is pointed downwards to help pick up and remove waste from the bottom of the tank. Multiple hang on the back filters or canister filters is used for adequate filtration and circulation.

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    To help supplement water flow, powerheads and air stones may also be added. Goldfish have adapted to waters with low dissolved oxygen levels, so air stones aren’t necessary for increasing oxygen. Instead, they is efficient at keeping fish waste from resting at the bottom of the aquarium.

    Substrate

    Goldfish do best without any substrate in a bare-bottom aquarium setup. In fact, having a substrate can create more work for the owner.

    All goldfish, including comet fish, love to dig in and around gravel and sand substrate. They uproot plants, move decorations, and kick up detritus that gets stuck on the bottom. This can become messy over time and lead to problems with water quality. In addition, a bare bottom makes aquarium vacuuming and waste removal much easier, which is essential for keeping a goldfish aquarium clean.

    That being said, goldfish have successfully been kept on both gravel and sand substrates. Extra care and maintenance will be needed to keep waste from entering the water column.

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    Tank Mates

    Once you choose to set up a goldfish tank, there is little you can do to have any other fish besides goldfish. This is mainly because of differences in preferred water temperature, but also because of differing temperaments and behaviors as well as bioload. Goldfish need to be kept with other large and active cold water species, and not many fish meet their criteria or behave as good tank mates.

    The best tank mates for comet goldfish are other single-tail breeds, namely other comets and common goldfish, in addition to koi fish. Unfortunately, these pond fish must be kept with like-breeds and cannot be mixed with fancy varieties. Fancy goldfish are too slow and delicate to compete with much more active comets.

    Experienced keepers have had success keeping zebra danios (Danio rerio) and dojo loaches (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus) with their comets, but we do not recommend this setup for under 100 gallons.

    Diet

    Goldfish are some of the least picky fish when it comes to feeding them; so much so that they might try to eat your finger!

    Comet goldfish are omnivores, which means that they need meat- and plant-based foods. They largely accept most aquarium foods, including live, frozen, and freeze-dried brine shrimp, earthworms, and bloodworms. They will also gladly munch on blanched vegetables, including lettuce, cucumber, and zucchini. Experienced keepers also cultivate easy-to-grow live plants, like Anacharis, to feed their goldfish.

    To help keep costs low, comet goldfish is given high-quality goldfish pellets or flakes.

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    Comet goldfish will eat as much food as you give them. This means that food should be given in moderation and any leftovers that happen to evade your fish should be removed to keep waste levels low.

    Breeding

    Though easy fish to keep, breeding comet goldfish is difficult and can only be achieved in a large pond setting. There isn’t a huge market for regular comet goldfish in the aquarium trade, so giving fry away can also be challenging.

    Because breeding goldfish in an aquarium setting requires very large systems, we will only focus on spawning comet fish in a pond setting. Spawning naturally occurs during late spring/early summer when the water temperature starts to rise. This is replicated in the home aquarium by using a heater.

    First, establish a male and female pair. Females are rounder and more robust than streamlined males. Female comets may also develop protruding anal vents during spawning periods while males may develop white tubercles on the gill covers. When ready to mate, males will chase the female in hopes that she will drop her eggs to be fertilized. Because of this aggressive courtship, at least 2 to 3 females should be kept per every male.

    Goldfish Fins

    When ready, the female will lay her eggs., this is near vegetation, a spawning mop, or another safe structure. The male will fertilize them and they will hatch after a few days. During this time, the parents and other goldfish are likely to eat the eggs. For better success, remove the fertilized eggs and move them to a separate system.

    When the eggs hatch, the fry will stay toward the substrate as they feed off their egg yolk. As the egg yolk runs out, they will become free-swimming and start to search for food. At this point, they may be offered baby brine shrimp, crushed-up pellets and flakes, and other microscopic foods.

    Goldfish fry grow fast, so be prepared to transfer them to their final home within several weeks!

    Common Health Problems

    Like all aquarium fish, comet goldfish are susceptible to common fish diseases like ich, velvet, and fin rot. Because comets have elongated fins, they can easily develop fin rot if water quality is poor.

    There are a few other problems that are unique to goldfish, though.

    Two of the main health problems with goldfish are ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning. Both of these conditions are a result of poor water quality and are easily avoided. However, poor water quality can also lead to swim bladder disease and dropsy, which is nearly impossible to treat.

    A healthy goldfish always starts with good water quality. Make sure to quarantine new additions for at least 4 weeks and check your tank daily for any changes in appearance or behavior.

    Final Thoughts

    Comet goldfish aren’t the showiest of all goldfish varieties, but they’re more exciting than the common goldfish. That being said, these are still huge fish that need a lot of space and good tank maintenance to keep them from developing health issues. Due to their size and bioload, they’re best in a large aquarium system or an outdoor pond.


  • The 30 Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish (Expert Picks)

    The 30 Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish (Expert Picks)

    After 25 years in this hobby, I still get excited walking into a well-stocked fish store. The choices are genuinely overwhelming. there are over 10,000 freshwater fish species, and your local store might carry hundreds of them. I put together this list of 30 species based on availability, visual impact, beginner-friendliness, and how they actually behave in a home aquarium. I’ve personally kept most of these, and I covered all of them in depth in my YouTube video below. worth watching before your next fish store visit.

    Key Takeaways

    • Keep schooling fish like tetras, barbs, and danios in groups of at least 6. They will be much more lively and confident that way.
    • Avoid large, aggressive fish if you’re new to keeping fish. There are many amazing beginner fish species to choose from!
    • Research the needs of your fish carefully. Each species has its own tank, water, and diet requirements.
    • Provide your fish with the best care you can. They will reward you with many years of joy and entertainment!

    30 Of The Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish

    Have you ever walked into a fish store and been overwhelmed by the variety of beautiful fish species swimming around in their tanks? It happens to all of us, and it can make choosing the right fish quite a challenge.

    However, if you’re reading this post, you’re on the right track! Learning the key facts about each fish is so important before having it netted and bagged. The 30 fish types in this post are all very different, so pay attention to these facts when making your choice:

    • Scientific Name
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Swimming Level
    • Origin
    • Adult Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Water Temperature
    • pH

    We got a video below from our YouTube channel you can follow along. We go over more detail in our blog post so enjoy looking at both. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as post new videos weekly!

    Now, for the fun part, let’s meet some amazing fish!

    1. Betta

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    Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

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    • Scientific Name: Betta Splendens
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Adult Size: 2.5 – 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 76. 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 8

    The betta fish is one of the all-time greatest freshwater aquarium fish species. These fish have amazing colors and the most beautiful fins to match.

    They make great pet fish for first-time fishkeepers and the best part is you can keep one in a tank of just 5 gallons or more. The male fish are very aggressive towards other betta fish, so you should never keep more than one in the same tank.

    2. Angelfish

    <a href=Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-551860″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle/top
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Freshwater angelfish are tropical fish from the cichlid family. These unique freshwater aquarium fish have huge fins on their belly and their back, often making them taller than they are long!

    There are many amazing types of angel fish to choose from, and they are great community fish with other peaceful species like tetras and cory catfish.

    3. Goldfish

    Fantail Goldfish
    • Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All Levels
    • Origin: East Asia
    • Adult Size: 6-12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 – 40 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 72ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5

    The goldfish is a mainstay of the aquarium hobby. These popular freshwater aquarium fish have been kept for centuries and are available in many weird and wonderful breeds.

    Goldfish are not ideal fish for beginners, however. They prefer their water cool and they eat plants, so they aren’t the best choice for planted tanks or tropical fish communities.

    Nevertheless, the goldfish is still one of the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world, and they make a wonderful and long-lived pet fish.

    4. Discus

    Discus In An Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Symphysodon discus
    • Care Level: Intermediate-advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 5-8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 82 – 86ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    The discus is a truly gorgeous fish species that you just can’t walk past without admiring. These South American cichlids have some of the most incredible colors and patterns, but they are not ideal for beginner fish keepers.

    Discus fish prefer warmer water than most other species, so mixing them with other fish in a community tank can be tricky. These large fish also need perfect water quality and a nice big aquarium to stay healthy.

    5. Guppy

    Blue Grass Guppy
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Northeast South America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Guppies are the perfect fish for beginner fish keepers. They are easy to find and come in a huge range of amazing colors, patterns, and fin types.

    They are live-bearing fish that breed freely in the aquarium, so don’t be surprised if you spot some baby fish in your freshwater tank after a little while! Guppies are very hardy fish and they thrive in water with a slightly higher pH.

    6. Molly

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops, P. latipinna, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Adult Size: 3 – 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8.5

    Mollies are another great beginner fish for freshwater aquariums. There are a few different species, although the balloon and sailfin mollies tend to be the most popular choices.

    Molly fish are from the same family as the guppy fish, so they’re also really easy to breed in the home aquarium. These interesting fish can even live in saltwater, but they do great in freshwater tanks of 30 gallons or more.

    7. Swordtails

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Central America
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 61 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Swordtails are livebearers, just like guppies and molly fish. The male fish are identified by their amazing sword-like tails, but the female fish can also be very colorful.

    Swordtails come in some awesome colors, including bright orange and even koi patterns. They are very easy to breed and get along peacefully with many other tropical fish species.

    8. Platy

    Sunset Platy
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Mexico & Central America
    • Adult Size: 2 -3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 79ยฐF
    • pH: 7- 8.2

    Platy fish are very similar to swordtails but do not have the same long tail. They are also a little smaller which means you can keep them in a freshwater tank of just 15 gallons or so.

    Platy fish are available in many different breeds like the sunset and the wagtail platy. Many of them have an orange body that adds a bold splash of color to any freshwater aquarium.

    9. African Cichlids

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara, Pseudotropheus, Haplochromis, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive – aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle/ Bottom
    • Origin: African Rift Lakes
    • Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.4

    African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish in the hobby. There is an amazing variety of different species in this group, but they generally require specialized care and are not suitable for most tropical community tanks.

    African cichlids tend to be aggressive and territorial. They need a fairly large aquarium and high-pH water to thrive. Don’t let that put you off though, these are the perfect fish for more experienced fishkeepers who want a show-stopping aquarium full of life and activity!

    10. New World Cichlids

    Firemouth Cichlid Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Astronotus, Amatitlania, Rocio, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom and middle
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Adult Size: 6 – 12 + inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature:75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 8

    The New World cichlids are similar to African cichlids but are native to America. They range from small to very large and can be peaceful or highly aggressive fish depending on the species. Jack Dempsey fish, Firemouths, Oscars, and convict cichlids are all popular examples of new world cichlids.

    Whether you are just starting out, or you’ve been keeping freshwater fish for a lifetime, there is a New World cichlid for you. As always, just be sure to research the specific needs of any fish before taking it home.

    11. Dwarf Cichlids

    Blue Ram Cichlid in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Apistogramma, Mikrogeophagus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy to Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful- semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Africa & South America
    • Adult Size: 2.5 + inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 86ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 8 depending on the species

    Dwarf cichlids are the little cousins of the African and New World cichlids. These small, colorful freshwater fish tend to be relatively peaceful and can make great additions to many community aquariums.

    The dwarf cockatoo cichlid, German blue ram, Apistogrammas, and the Kribensis cichlid are all great examples of dwarf cichlids.

    12. Arowana

    Arowana Fish
    • Scientific Name: Scleropages formosus
    • Care Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Top
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 3 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 7.5

    The Arowana is a large and impressive freshwater fish that is only suitable for expert fish keepers with plenty of space for a huge aquarium. These beautiful silvery fish can grow to 3 feet in length and need an aquarium of at least 250 gallons when fully grown.

    Arowana fish are carnivores, so they need a high-protein diet such as feeder fish, insects, and other meaty foods. They can do well in community tanks if kept with other more aggressive fish that are too big to swallow.

    13. Tetras

    <a href=Ember Tetra in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-547471″/>
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon, Hyphessobrycon, Gymnocorymbus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: South America, Africa
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Tetras are the perfect choice for a tropical community aquarium. These small, schooling fish come in every color of the rainbow and are generally very easy to care for. Most tetras come from South America1, but some species, like the Congo tetra, are from Africa.

    Choose colorful species like the ember and cardinal tetra to brighten up your aquarium, or go for serpae or black phantoms if you want fish with a more interesting shape.

    14. Barb

    Gold Barbs Profile
    • Scientific Name: Barbus, Puntius etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 2 – 13 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 100 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.8

    Barbs are another great option for fish keepers who want active, schooling fish for a community aquarium. Most species stay between 2 and 3 inches, but some like the tinfoil barb can grow very large.

    Most barbs are very peaceful fish, but the tiger barb has earned a reputation for being a fin nipper. Barbs are schooling fish that should be kept in groups of 6 or more.

    15. Rasboras

    Rasboras
    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma, Celestichthys, Boraras etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1.75 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature:68 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 5 – 8, depending on the species

    Rasboras are nano (very small) fish from the same family as barbs and goldfish. These peaceful schooling fish are perfect for a tropical community in a heavily planted aquarium where they tend to hang out in the middle level.

    These social fish should not be kept in groups of less than 5, so make sure you pick up a nice big school of the same species to see them behaving confidently.

    16. Gouramis

    Blue Gourami Fish
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster, Trichopsis, Trichopodus etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 28 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68-86ยฐF (depending on species)
    • pH: 5.5 – 8

    Gouramis are wonderful aquarium fish that come in many different shapes and sizes. Nano species like the sparkling gourami can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, while the impressive giant gourami needs about 250 gallons when it is fully grown.

    Most gouramis are very peaceful fish that do best when kept in a pair. They are a great choice for a heavily planted tank with other small community fish.

    17. Killifish

    Gardneri Killifish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Aplocheilus, Jordanella, Fundulopanchax, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: Africa, Asia, America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 5.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 75ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Killifish are great nano fish that come in some amazing colors. These fish are not very common in the aquarium trade but they are a great choice for fishkeepers looking for something a little different.

    Some killifish species are very shortlived because they live in temporary pools that evaporate in the dry season. Others can live for multiple years, however.

    18. Danios

    What Does A <a href=Zebra Danio Look Like” class=”wp-image-549939″/>
    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys, Danio, Brachydanio, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Upper levels
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 75ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 7.8

    Danios are small Asian schooling fish that are great for community tanks. Some, like zebra danios, are very hardy and make an ideal choice for beginner fish keepers.

    Danios tend to be very active swimmers, and they can add a lot of movement to your aquarium. They are very social fish, so they need to be kept in a school of at least 6 of their own kind.

    19. Rainbow

    <a href=Boesemani Rainbowfish” class=”wp-image-1061409″/>
    • Scientific Name: Marosatherina, Melanotaenia, Pseudomugil etc.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle/Top
    • Origin: Australia, Indonesia
    • Adult Size: 2 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 55 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Rainbowfish are beautiful freshwater fish from Australia and Southeast Asia. They get their name from their awesome colors, which are especially bright when the fish are spawning. They are active fish that need a fairly large aquarium.

    Rainbowfish have a very peaceful nature and fit in well with most other community fish. They are social creatures, however, so keep them in a shoal of 6 or more.

    20. Freshwater Puffers

    Green Spotted Pufferfish in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon, Tetraodon etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive/ Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 1 – 24 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 125 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 78ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 7.6

    Freshwater puffers are some of the most fascinating fish in the aquarium hobby. These funny-looking fish are known for their ability to puff up into a ball when threatened by a predator.

    Freshwater pufferfish range in size from nano species like the 1-inch dwarf pea puffer, all the way to 2-foot giants like the Mbu puffer.

    Pufferfish are not very active, so the smallest species can be kept in tanks of just 5 gallons or so. Puffers have very sharp parrot-like teeth, however, and they can be aggressive toward other fish. These fish usually work best in a species-only tank.

    21. Hatchetfish

    Marble Hachet Fish
    • Scientific Name: Carnegiella, Gasteropelecus, etc.
    • Care Level: Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Top
    • Origin: Central & South America
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Hatchetfish are unusual, flattened nano fish that spend their time near the surface of the aquarium. These schooling fish have long pectoral fins and huge muscles in their chests that they use to leap out of the water to escape their predators.

    Hatchetfish are wonderful freshwater fish for tropical community tanks. However, their acrobatic abilities mean they need to be kept in a tank with a tight fighting lid and great care is necessary when performing aquarium maintenance.

    22. Freshwater Sharks

    What does a rainbow shark look like
    • Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos, Balantiocheilos, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: Southeast Asia & South America
    • Adult Size: 5 inches – 3 feet +
    • Minimum Tank Size: 65 – 150 + gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 8

    Freshwater sharks are not true sharks, but they do have a very similar shape. These medium to large aquarium fish are available in some bold colors, including black, red, and silver.

    The rainbow shark is probably the most popular species. This fish has bright red fins and a potentially aggressive nature. Rainbow sharks are also available in some amazing neon colors for fish keepers who want an awesome display fish.

    23. Freshwater Eels

    Fire Eel in driftwood
    • Scientific Name: Mastacembelus, Macrognathus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Southeast Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 8 inches to several feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6 – 7

    Freshwater eels are probably not the first fish that comes to mind when planning a fish tank, but there are many amazing types that you can keep in your aquarium. Some species like the tire-track eel and fire eel even have beautiful patterns and colors.

    These fish need a secure lid to keep them from escaping. They are generally shy and nocturnal, so make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces and keep the lights fairly dim if you want to see them active.

    24. Freshwater Gobies

    Bumblee Goby in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Stiphodon, Brachygobius, Gobioides, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Africa, Asia, Americas
    • Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 50+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5

    Freshwater gobies come in a range of shapes and sizes. These fish have loads of attitude and interesting behavior which makes them fascinating creatures to observe in the home aquarium.

    They range from specialist algae eaters to carnivores and can be peaceful community fish or aggressive fish eaters. Many of the freshwater gobies sold in the hobby actually need brackish water to thrive, so make sure you research these fish carefully before adding them to your tank.

    25. Cory Catfish

    Corydoras Sterbai
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 3o gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Cory catfish are an excellent choice for beginner fish keepers. These small, bottom-dwelling catfish deserve a place in any peaceful community aquarium. They get along with most other fish so they are ideal for a freshwater community tank.

    Corydoras catfish stay small and love to hang out at the bottom of the tank, digging through the substrate to look for food. They are schooling fish, so keep them in a group of 4 or more to see them at their confident best.

    26. Loaches

    Kuhli Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Pangio, Botia, Sewellia, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1- 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 86ยฐF (depending on species)
    • pH: 6 – 7.5

    Loaches are another favorite fish in the aquarium hobby. These goofy bottom-dwellers are pretty diverse, ranging from the small, eel-like kuhli loach to the large, shark-shaped clown loach. Loaches make great clean-up fishes, and they tend to be very peaceful in community tanks.

    Loaches are well-known for their snail-killing abilities, so this is one fish to avoid if you enjoy keeping inverts!

    27. Plecos

    Common Pleco in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus, Panaque, Hypostomus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy-Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 2 inches – 2 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7 – 8

    Plecos are also known as suckermouth catfish. These fish are built like tanks, with tough scales for armor and large shark-like fins. Most species have natural colors which they use for camouflage on the river bottom, although some have bold, striped and spotted markings.

    There are over 500 varieties of plecos in the aquarium hobby, ranging from small and beginner-friendly to expert-only, so you can bet there’s a perfect pleco for you!

    28. Catfish

    Pictus Catfish Swimming
    • Scientific Name: Pimelodus, Synodontis, Kryptopterus, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy – Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
    • Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
    • Adult Size: 2 inches – several feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5

    There are over 3000 known freshwater catfish species in the world, and many of them make great aquarium subjects! These whiskered bottom dwellers come in many shapes and sizes, from 1-inch corydoras to man-sized predators from murky waters.

    The larger catfish are usually carnivorous species that eat other fish. This means you need to be pretty careful about choosing smaller fish as tankmates, or you’ll start to notice them disappear!

    Popular aquarium species include the synodontis and Pictus catfish, as well as the cories and plecos mentioned above in this post. Many of the catfish sold in aquarium stores grow way too big for most home aquariums, so make sure you research their adult size before taking them home.

    29. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray
    • Scientific Name: Potamotrygon spp.
    • Care Level: Advanced
    • Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: South America
    • Adult Size: 1 foot +
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200+ gallons
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.6

    Freshwater stingrays are awesome pets for experienced fish keepers with plenty of space. These flat members of the shark family need an extra large tank or a shallow indoor pond to provide the space they need. Stingrays are potentially dangerous animals, although injuries are rare.

    The smallest freshwater stingrays are about a foot across, but some species reach truly gigantic proportions! These fish also need excellent water quality and quality filtration, so they are best left to the experts.

    30. Freshwater Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina, Neocaridina, etc.
    • Care Level: Easy- Intermediate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Origin: Asia
    • Adult Size: 1 – 2 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Water Temperature: 64 – 76ยฐF
    • pH: 6.5-7.5

    Ok, so freshwater shrimp are not technically fish, but they are still some of the coolest animals you can keep in a fish tank! These fascinating crustaceans come in all sorts of colors and breeds.

    Freshwater shrimp do best in a tank with plenty of aquatic plants just like their natural habitat, and they can be kept with some small freshwater aquarium fish species. However, most fish will eat freshwater shrimp, so choose their tankmates carefully.

    FAQs

    What Is The Most Popular?

    The goldfish is the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. These awesome cool-water fish have a rich history in the fish-keeping hobby, dating back centuries. Today they are as popular as ever and they come in a jaw-dropping variety of shapes, colors, and fin types.

    Are There Tropical Freshwater?

    Most freshwater aquarium fish are tropical species for good reason. The tropical regions of the world have the greatest diversity of fish, as well as the most exotic and colorful species.

    What’s The Difference Between Both?

    Tropical fish are the species that come from areas near the equator where it is always warm. There are tropical saltwater and freshwater fish. Tropical freshwater fish are very popular aquarium fish, they just need a heater to keep the water warm.

    Which Is The Easiest To Take Care Of?

    Guppies are probably the easiest fish to care for. These hardy fish do not have any special care requirements and they get along great with other peaceful community fish.

    How Long Do They Live In A Home Aquarium?

    Freshwater fish have different lifespans depending on their species and the quality of life you give them. Some African Killifish never live more than a year because they have evolved to complete their life cycle in temporary waterholes. Others, like the goldfish, can live for over 15 years with good care.

    Final Thoughts

    I know, choosing the perfect species for a freshwater fish aquarium can be tough. It’s always best to research and choose your fish before you start shopping though, rather than making any hasty decisions. I hope you find your next fish from this list, and if you didn’t, maybe a bucket list species for a future tank!

    What is your favorite aquarium fish species? Comment below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Aquarium Plants in Gravel: 10 Species That Actually Thrive

    Aquarium Plants in Gravel: 10 Species That Actually Thrive

    Most of my tanks over the years have used gravel, and I’ve grown all kinds of plants successfully in it. once I understood which species actually work and which ones need something richer to thrive. The short answer is that column-feeding plants are your best bet in gravel, while heavy root feeders need either root tabs or a nutrient-rich substrate. Here’s what I’ve learned actually grows well without a lot of fuss.

    Gravel is the default substrate in most beginner aquariums, and the good news is that plenty of plants grow in it just fine. if you understand why some plants struggle and others don’t. The key distinction is between root-feeding plants and column-feeding plants. Root feeders like swords and crypts pull nutrients from the substrate, so in bare gravel they need root tabs to thrive. Column feeders like hornwort and water sprite get nutrients from the water column and will grow in gravel, sand, or even just floating. Then there are epiphytes like anubias and java fern that don’t use substrate for nutrient uptake at all. you tie them to driftwood or rock and they’re perfectly happy. Once I understood these three categories, planting in gravel got a lot simpler. Here are 10 plants that consistently work well in gravel setups.

    Not all plants can grow in gravel, and that’s why it’s essential to know what plant species can flourish in gravel substrate exactly how you want.

    Key Takeaways

    • The best aquarium plants in gravel are going to be plants that feed on the water column
    • You can use rooted plants if you use root tabs as fertilizer
    • Most plants that can grow in gravel are going to very hardy and easy to grow

    Is Growing Plants In Gravel Worth It?

    Growing plants in gravel can be a new experience for many aquarists. It requires time and dedication to see your efforts finally yield great results.

    As long as you stick to the proper guideline for maintaining plants in gravel, you will never come across any issues.

    Plants need proper maintenance to grow. This can include fertilization, proper lighting, CO2, and your choice of substrate. We will discuss that in detail later on.

    10 Best Aquarium Plants For Gravel Substrate

    It doesn’t matter whether you are a beginner or someone with extensive aquarium knowledge, you can make mistakes when it comes to picking plant species for gravel.

    Apart from knowing what plants are best, you need to know other important information to avoid any mishaps.

    Including different plant varieties, I’ll cover these stats so can you go ahead and buy whatever plant species you like.

    • Scientific Name
    • Skill Level
    • Size
    • Lighting
    • pH
    • Growth Rate
    • CO2 Requirement

    1. Java Fern

    • Scientific Name: Microsorum pteropus
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 10 to 12 inches
    • Lighting: Low to moderate, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.0 – 8.0
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Java Fern is a great option for beginners because of its low maintenance and high environmental adaptability quality.

    Depending on the species, these aquatic plants can vary in shape and size. You will usually see these plants taking on colors like a deep brown color with dark green roots.

    Java Fern requires low levels of fertilizers, making it one of the best aquarium plants to grow in gravel. You can keep these plants in low light with a temperature ranging from 64 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ.

    While placing the plant, make sure you don’t put the plant roots too deep in the substrate since this can kill the plant. Like other plants that need nutrients to grow, Java Fern also needs a small amount of nutrients produced from fish waste to grow. Apart from this, you can consider good quality supplements to support their growth and lifespan.

    Propagation

    Propagating Java Fern is pretty easy. The first step is to carefully cut off plantlets with sterile scissors. After that, attach the fresh rhizomes to the surface and leave them for a few weeks.

    2. Anubias

    • Scientific Name: Anubias Barteri Var. Nana
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Lighting: Low to moderate, 50-125 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.0 – 7.5
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anubias Nana is a highly popular aquarium plant ideal for almost every planted aquarium. Aside from being a pretty easy plant to care for, Anubias Nana is one of the most beautiful aquarium plants used for freshwater aquariums.

    This plant grows from a thick and horizontal rhizome and has a moderate growth rate. These aquatic plants take on darker shades of green and have rounded and compact leaves designed horizontally.

    The best thing about Anubias Nana is that these plants can develop flowers completely submerged in water. And as far as lighting condition goes, you can keep these plants in low to moderate to high lighting completely risk-free.

    When it comes to placing, avoid covering its thick rhizome with aquarium gravel. You can place plant roots in the substrate though. This hardy plant is also a pretty versatile plant that can grow fairly well without too many liquid fertilizers. The water temperature should be between 72 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ.

    Propagation

    To propagate Anubias, cut the rhizome of the mother plant. Use a sharp blade and cut the rhizome into 2 or more pieces with care. Make sure there are at least 4 leaves on each section of the rhizome.

    3. Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    Low Tech Plant!
    Cryptocoryne Wendtii

    A great low tech plant for multiple aquascape types and setups. Forgiving and hardy, the Cyrptocoryne Wendtii is a great introduction to rooted plants!

    Buy Tissue Culture Buy Potted
    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne wendtii
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 4 to 14 inches
    • Lighting: Low, 50-200 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.2
    • Growth Rate: Slow to moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii is another great choice for a planted tank. The plant is attractive and has simple needs that you can easily fulfill by following the right guide.

    Like Java Fern, this aquatic plant can also have different sizes and shapes based on its variety and tank conditions.

    Typically, the leaves have a compressed texture to an undulating appearance with a huge variety of colors. Apart from deep green to dark brown shades, you can see the leaves of a Cryptocoryne Wendtii featuring golden, bright yellow, white, and moderate red shades. This allows you to diversify your taste and not curtail yourself to only green plants.

    When placing the plant, you can expose it to bright lighting for better growth. Even though these plants already have a large and strong system of roots, you won’t see them above the substrate level.

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii feeds through their roots, making it essential to place them in a nutrient rich substrate. These plants can grow in gravel substrate they also do well in sand substrate.

    Since the plants grow a large root system, you have to root them down as early as possible in a 3 inches-deep gravel.

    Propagation

    There are different ways to propagate this plant. You can start by cutting off the root with a stem and then plant it into the substrate.

    You can also split apart the larger plant into clumps of plantlets. After that, replant them a few inches apart to support proper growth.

    Cryptocoryne Wendtii can also reproduce through runners. The young plants growing from runners often appear separated from the main plant which makes it easy to remove and replant them.

    4. Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

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    • Scientific Name: Bucephalandra
    • Skill Level: Moderate
    • Size: 1 to 10 inches
    • Lighting: Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.0 – 8.0
    • Growth Rate: Slow
    • CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended

    Despite being new to the aquarium hobby, Bucephalandra has become a highly recognized plant because of its unique colors, and straightforward requirements for growing in a home aquarium.

    The plant features different sets of colors, ranging from dark green to a whole spectrum of shades. The upper parts of the plants look slightly glossy with under-parts of the leaves painted in bright red, white, or yellow colors.

    This plant does well when given a good nutrient supply. Although water parameters have to be according to what they prefer to thrive, make sure the temperature stays between 71 Fยฐ to 79 Fยฐ.

    While placing, cover the roots of the plant with gravel but make sure you don’t plant them in the aquarium substrate.

    Apart from other advantages of planting them, Bucy Plants give a wide surface for shrimp shade to small fish species.

    Propagation

    To propagate Bucephalandra, cut off the rhizome into multiple little plants like Anubias. Use scissors to successfully get it done without harming the plant. The individual rhizomes should be moderate in size, and at least 1.5 inches long.

    5. Dwarf Sagittaria

    • Scientific Name: Sagittaria subulata
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 4 to 12 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate to high, 60-150 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.0 – 8.0
    • Growth Rate: Moderate to fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No, but recommended

    Dwarf Sagittaria is another great plant to consider for growing in gravel. This aquarium plant grows beautiful little while-colored flowers and a long white root system in the substrate based on how well you take care of them.

    Luckily, this plant is quite adaptable to environmental transitions and can be used both in the foreground area and middle area.

    Dwarf Sagittaria does well when kept under moderate lighting. You can see scarlet hues on their leaves as a result of proper maintenance.

    Like other plants, a Dwarf Sagittaria also needs nutrients in the gravel to grow and make your aquarium beautiful. Though the plant is pretty hardy, the absence of fertilizers and iron can cause the death of the plant. Also, make sure you remain between 70 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ while setting up water parameters.

    Propagation

    Dwarf Sagittaria propagates by producing runners. You can cut them off and plant them into the substrate.

    6. Vallisneria

    • Scientific Name: Vallisneria spiralis
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 12 to 72 inches
    • Lighting: Low, 40-200 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.5 – 8.6
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Optional

    Vallisneria is one of those few aquarium plants that will never disappoint you.

    If you already have a fish tank with different plants and looking for something new and unique, go for Vallisneria since it can blend well with other plants.

    This fast-growing and undemanding plant need moderate lighting to grow and stay healthy.

    If the tank conditions match their preference, you will see the plant growing fairly fast. The fresh leaves look bright green, making your tank appealing.

    Since Vallisneria is a submerged plant, it spreads by runners and forms long roots underwater. The good thing about this plant is that it can withstand water shifting much more easily than most aquatic plants.

    Propagation

    Vallisneria propagates through producing runners.

    7. Amazon Sword

    Amazon Sword

    A classic background aquarium plant. Grows large and will be a centerpiece in your aquarium

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    • Scientific Name: Echinodorus amazonicus
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 4 to 20 inches
    • Lighting: Low, 40-250 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.6 – 7.5
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    If you have prior aquarium experience then you know how well-recognized Amazon Sword is. With its large leaves sitting on a short stem, Amazon Sword makes a wonderful addition to planted aquariums.

    The leaves comprise a pretty prominent mid-vein and secondary veins running alongside the margin.

    Amazon Sword is a relatively easy plant to manage. It does well both as a background and mid-ground plant in planted aquariums.

    While placing Amazon Sword in planted tanks, don’t forget to keep gravel at least 3 inches deep. They need plenty of gravel to root and it’s better to pack the gravel moderately.

    Another essential thing to know is their extensive root systems. The plant can grow on its own. Hence, avoid planting the plant roots too deep so that you don’t have to do frequent trimmings.

    As far as lighting goes, exposure to bright lighting or access to low is never an issue. They can withstand different lighting conditions and a variety of water temperatures.

    Propagation

    Amazon Sword can be grown in two ways. One is through developing small blossoms, and the other is through producing runners.

    8. Anacharis

    • Scientific Name: Egeria densa
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 6 to 8 inches
    • Lighting: Moderate to high, 100-250 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 7.0 – 8.0
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: No

    Anacharis is a large aquarium plant that can grow fairly well in gravel. Aquarium plants that grow up to 6 feet can be slightly demanding to place, but consider the benefits this specific plant can bring to your home aquarium.

    These plants feature extensive green stems and grow in the substrate as well as floating plants.

    When you observe the pattern of the leaves, you see them arranged compactly like a coil.

    You have to make water parameters consistent with Anacharis since these plants grow a beautiful deep green color when kept in an ideal environment. Plants that are kept in different conditions might look light green in appearance.

    When it comes to the root system, Anacharis have two different types of roots which are white. Both roots can grow from the stem and then into the substrate. The longer stems grow into the water but these stems don’t grow from the bottom of the stem. Rather, they project along the stem.

    Longer stems can absorb nutrients from the water column, and make these plants a pretty fast species to grow.

    Including gauging the right water parameters, you have to keep these plants in moderate lighting so that this fast-growing plant can take on a deep green shade.

    Propagation

    To propagate Anacharis, cut the stems that are at least 5 inches long and then insert them into the substrate.

    9. Dwarf Hairgrass

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    Dwarf Hairgrass

    Dwarf hairgrass is an easy to grow carpet that is great for beginners. Purchase tissue culture plants to ensure pest free plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Eleocharis acicularis
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Lighting: Low, 35-50 PAR (Umols)
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Growth Rate: Fast
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    Dwarf Hairgrass is not a new plant in the aquarium hobby. With its striking green color and beautifully shaped leaves, this plant is irresistible.

    Since you’re looking for plants that grow in gravel, compromising on the appearance of the bottom is not possible. And that’s why I added this species to the list.  Dwarf Hairgrass gives a soft and lush green texture to the foot of the bottom. This carpeting plant has lightly twisted leaves with blades that make it more appealing.

    Like Anacharis, Dwarf Hairgrass has to be kept in proper water conditions so that it can grow to the fullest. Water conditions will also determine whether or not your plant will produce white roots. Even though these roots stay hidden in the substrate, the plant will grow to the glass of the tank and will look incredible.

    You can use these plants to create a thick lawn in your aquarium. When planted properly, these plants tend to spread widely by runners.

    Lighting is another contributing factor in their proper growth. In their natural habitat, Dwarf Hairgrass grows in moderate natural lighting. You will only get a beautiful carpet once you get a stronger lighting setup. Also, the intensity of light should be in consideration since this is a slow-growing plant. For the substrate, gravel or sand is not an issue, but it’s better to get something finer. Normal gravel will also do but sand is ideal for the frail roots of the plant.

    Propagation

    Propagating Dwarf Hairgrass is also pretty easy. Just grab the roots using tweezers and make small clumps. Place each gently into the substrate an inch apart.

    10. Christmas Moss

    • Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
    • Skill Level: Easy
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Lighting:
    • pH: 5.0 – 7.5
    • Growth Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 Requirement: Yes

    The last plant on this list is Christmas Moss which is beginner-friendly and is used around the world by beginners, intermediate-level aquarists, and fish keepers who are fairly experienced.

    Christmas Moss grows slowly, but it can create a magnificent carpet across your aquarium. With its long and dangling branches that overlap each other, the plant resembles a Christmas tree.

    Unlike other aquarium mosses, Christmas Moss is the most beautiful moss you will ever see. It’s hardy and can grow in aquariums if you keep water parameters and the overall aquarium environment matching its natural habitat.

    When placing it, don’t let the plant get covered with any shade since it grows well only when there’s enough light.

    The plant can grow with or without CO2, but using liquid fertilizer is highly recommended.

    Propagation

    To propagate Christmas Moss, take the parent plant and cut it into small pieces. After the division, simply attach the new pieces to the new site.

    How To Grow Plants In Gravel Substrate

    Growing and keeping aquarium plants in gravel need a little bit of proper guidance, patience and focus. In this part of the article, Iโ€™m gonna show you how to successfully grow plants in gravel. So, let’s dive straight into that. If you want to see a video breaking down the subject, check out the video below from Palmer Fish Talk.

    There are three routes to grow plants in gravel substrate. The first one is putting organic soil so that the plants can absorb nutrients from it. The second one is using those plants that are hardy like the ones I discussed above. And the third route is to use root tabs.

    Some people don’t like to use pots in their aquariums, and they prefer using sand. Sand is a good option to consider but gravel isn’t any less either. In fact, if you use thick sand, it can prevent water flow and encourage substrate compaction.

    A proper amount of water should always flow through the substrate to ensure the plant roots are getting enough oxygen and CO2. Even if you use fertilizers, it might be hard for them to get to the roots and provide nutrients to the plants.

    Before you venture out and purchase gravel, make sure you get fine gravel that won’t be harsh on the roots.

    Now letโ€™s focus on the root tabs route. The root tab route is basically a pretty easy method. All you have to do is get these little gel capsules and dip them into the substrate.

    Root tabs are filled with nutrients that help the plants grow and survive. They are usually filled with potassium, iron, and sometimes just dirt. Plants love dirt because they get nutrients and a system of water through it. The best way to dip these capsules into gravel is to get tweezers or use your hands. Just put them below the surface but avoid going too deep.

    Fertilization

    For plants that grow in gravel, fertilization becomes important more than ever. Some plants can get nutrients from fish waste but sometimes that’s just not enough.

    You need to get them good fertilizers to fulfill their basic demands.

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    Gravel can provide them with beneficial bacteria that help keep a biological balance within the tank. The plants usually absorb nutrients from the gravel while some plants access nutrients present in the water column.

    Trimming

    Most stem plants grow really fast. Such plants have to get frequent trimmings so that they don’t consume the whole aquarium. Also, you have to keep your plants clean and in shape which is possible by trimming them.

    While cutting off bits of plants, make sure you use high-quality aqua-scaping scissors.

    Tank Maintenance

    Tank maintenance holds intrinsic value to the overall fitness of your plants.

    There are many issues related to plants that can influence your aquarium environment. For example, if a plant melts, or there is plant material sitting at the bottom for too long, the water can become toxic for your fish. It can even kill your plants.

    Apart from keeping water parameters consistent, make regular water changes and clean the tank.

    Filtration And Water Quality

    When you have live plants, as well as fish living in an aquarium, filtering out toxins from the water becomes extremely essential and unavoidable.

    Not only a fish tank, but a planted tank also needs a quality filtration system. For a planted tank, you can go for a canister filter to weed out toxins from the tank.

    Tank Mates

    For a planted tank, you have to be careful while choosing what fish species the plants are going to be with.

    Here are a few fish species you should avoid housing with plants in freshwater fish tanks. While you can keep plants with them it’s a challenge.

    FAQs

    Can Plants Grow In Rocks?

    You can grow aquarium plants in gravel, given you take care of their basic needs to grow and thrive. While some plants are ideal for gravel substrate, some species can’t withstand gravel. You need to choose those species that are hardy and can absorb nutrients from the gravel.

    While some plants are ideal for gravel substrate, some species can’t withstand gravel. You need to choose those species that are hardy and can absorb nutrients from the gravel.

    Do They Grow Better In Sand Or Gravel?

    Growing plants in the sand is common but it can hold back water flow that is necessary for the plants. Gravel doesn’t do that. But generally, both mediums are good for plants to grow. But since each has a few drawbacks when it comes to providing plants with proper nutrients, you need capsules filled with nutrients to help the plants grow properly.

    Which Tank Gravel Is Best?

    Choosing the right aquarium gravel is one of the best things you can do. Whatever gravel you go for, make sure it doesn’t have sharp ends or dust but access plant roots to grow.

    Some plants have delicate roots that rough gravel can irritate. Also, the shape and size, and texture of the gravel should be even.

    Closing Thoughts

    Many people think that they can only grow plants in soil, but there are actually many plants that can thrive in gravel. These types of plants are typically water column feeders and are easy to grow. If you’re looking for a new type of plant to try growing, consider one that can prosper in gravel. Do you have any experience growing plants in gravel? Let us know in the comments below!

  • Male vs Female Betta Fish: Key Differences and How to Care for Each

    Male vs Female Betta Fish: Key Differences and How to Care for Each

    I’ve kept both male and female bettas over the years, and the differences between them go well beyond looks. Most people only ever keep a single male, so they’re often surprised when they finally see a female up close. smaller, duller, and with a completely different temperament. Understanding these differences matters whether you’re planning a community tank, thinking about a sorority setup, or just trying to figure out what you have. Here’s what I’ve observed firsthand across years of keeping these fish.

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    Key Takeaways

    • Female bettas usually have smaller fins and less color than male bettas
    • Most bettas in pet stores are male
    • Female bettas are less aggressive than males, but they will still fight with each other
    • It is possible to keep female bettas together, but male bettas should be kept on their own

    Male Vs Female Betta Appearance

    Male and female bettas can look very similar unless you know exactly what to look for. Let’s say you just walked into the pet store and you want to pick out a single female betta fish. How would you know which is which? The best approach is to look at a combination of small differences.

    Ready to learn? Let’s get started!

    Male vs Female Betta

    Size and Body Shape

    Male bettas are slightly longer and leaner than females. The length difference usually only comes down to about a quarter inch or so, but the body width can be pretty noticeable. Females are wider across the back and belly, which is especially noticeable when viewed from above.

    Fins

    Bettas are loved for their amazing long fins. There are loads of different betta breeds, and some look very different from others. Elephant ear bettas are just bursting with fins, while plakat betta fish have relatively small, and compact fins.

    So how do you tell female and male betta fish apart by their fins? Male betta fish generally have larger fins and females have shorter fins. The difference is pretty clear in most betta breeds, but in smaller-finned varieties, the ventral fin is the best place to look.

    Let’s take a look at the various betta fish fins and how they differ:

    • Pelvic/Ventral fin

    The ventral fins are the paired fins that hang down below the body, just behind the gills. Male betta fish have much larger and longer ventral fins.

    • Anal Fins

    The anal fin is the long flowing fin that extends from behind the ventral fin all the way to the tail. This is the largest fin on some betta fish breeds. Male betta fish have much longer anal fins than females, and this can be a good clue for telling them apart.

    • Caudal fin (tail)

    Male betta fish have longer tails than females. The size difference is very obvious in some breeds like the rose tails, but not very clear with plakat betta fish.

    Color

    Male betta fish are usually more colorful than females. Females tend to have more gray and silver colors, but sometimes they can be even more colorful than male bettas.

    Egg Spot

    Female bettas have an egg spot between their ventral and anal fins. This small bump is the ovipositor tube where the eggs are released. The egg spot is another useful clue for telling male and female betta fish apart.

    Gill Plate Cover

    Betta fish can flare out their gill plate covers (operculum). Both male and female betta fish do this to show dominance and aggression, but the male fish tend to flare more often.

    The larger gill plate cover of male betta fish looks kind of like a beard, so that’s a good way to remember this difference.

    Behavior

    Male and female betta fish can look a lot alike, but some unique behaviors really help set them apart.

    Here’s what to look for:

    Bubble Nests

    Bettas are from the Osphronemidae family, a group of fish that build bubble nests where the eggs develop in a more oxygen-rich environment. Males create bubble nests, and they will do this even if they are kept alone in their own tanks.

    What Is A Bubble Nest

    Bubble nests are basically small rafts of bubbles that float together at the water’s surface. The size of the bubble nest varies, and it can often be found in the corner of an aquarium, especially after a water change. Female betta fish can also make bubble nests but this is pretty rare.

    Temperament

    Captive-bred betta fish tend to be far more aggressive than the wild fish they were bred from. There are many types of wild bettas, however, so it really depends on the species.

    Domesticated Betta splendens are extremely popular in the fish-keeping hobby today but they were originally bred for sport. That’s right, bettas were bred to fight, and generations of winners have produced a pretty mean breed of fish!

    Male bettas tend to be more aggressive than females, but each fish has his or her own personality. The difference in temperament means female betta fish are a little more flexible when it comes to tank mates. Read more about this later in the article.

    Care

    Male and female betta fish have very similar care needs. There are some slight differences that we’ll get into below, but both sexes need good water quality, enough space, and a healthy diet to live a long, happy life.

    Alien Betta Male

    Tank Setup

    Betta fish need an aquarium of at least 5 gallons. You might buy them in a cup over at the pet store, but they will not live for very long in such cramped conditions. Here’s a basic setup for male or female betta fish:

    • 5-gallon+ tank (with hood)
    • Aquarium heater
    • Filter (HOB, sponge, etc.)
    • Aquarium light with timer

    Those four core components are vital for keeping your fish healthy. You’ll also want to decorate your tank of course, and that’s where some potential differences come into play.

    Aquarium Decorations

    Betta fish do not need to have substrate in their tank, but you’ll probably want to add a layer of aquarium-safe gravel to the bottom of your aquarium for aesthetic reasons.

    Caves and ornaments will add interest to your tank and make it a more natural and stimulating environment for your fish.

    Unfortunately, the long, flowing fins of the male betta fish can tear very easily, so you need to be extra careful when choosing decorations. Avoid anything with sharp edges that could cause damage. Females are less vulnerable than male bettas because they have short fins, but it’s still something to think about.

    Plastic plants can be especially dangerous for your fish so choose soft, silk plants, or even better, grow the real thing! Aquatic plants are surprisingly easy and fun to grow and care for.

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    Water Quality

    Keeping male or female betta fish healthy in the long run requires good water quality. So how do you make sure your water is safe and healthy for your fish?

    Let’s take a look at the basics of betta fish tank maintenance.

    The water in your betta fish tank changes over time as fish waste and excess food accumulate. This causes chemical changes in the water due to the nitrogen cycle, and the water becomes more and more toxic for your fish.

    The only way to monitor these changes is to test your water regularly and perform partial water changes whenever necessary. Growing some live aquatic plants can certainly improve your water quality, but you’ll still need to roll up your sleeves once, twice, or even four times each month.

    Feeding Your Betta Fish

    Male and female betta fish can be fed the same diet. You can feed these tropical fish small prepared foods for freshwater aquarium fish or choose from some excellent betta pellets made specifically for your siamese fighting fish. A high-quality diet can bring out the best in your betta fish colors.

    Supplementary live and frozen foods like bloodworms make a tasty treat for your Siamese-fighting fish and are a great way to get your fish into good spawning condition if you plan on breeding them.

    Tank Mates

    The only real downside to betta fish is their aggressive behavior towards other bettas. Most Siamese fighting fish keepers keep just one fish in their own tank.

    These beautiful fish can actually get along just fine with many species in a community aquarium, however. But how do you know which other fish will get along with your betta?

    Betta fish can be kept with other small tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters and tank conditions. They should only be kept with peaceful fish, of course, because bettas can be bullied and hurt by other species.

    Never keep Siamese fighting fish with fin nippers like tiger barbs, or any aggressive or large and predatory fish.

    Read on for some great betta fish community tank mates!

    Betta Tank Mates

    Female Betta Sororities

    Betta fish tend to fight with their own species, which is why it’s always best to keep them on their own. You probably know that male bettas should never be kept with other males. It is possible to keep a female fish with other female betta fish, however, and this is known as a betta sorority.

    Betta sororities don’t always work out because female bettas can still be aggressive toward other females. If you do go this route, a 20+ gallon tank size is going to be your safest bet, and you’ll need to carefully monitor your fish and be ready to move them to another tank if you notice any aggression.

    Bettas are not very social fish, so there’s nothing wrong with keeping a single female in her own tank.

    Keeping Male and Female Bettas Together

    Keeping male and female betta fish together in the same tank is a bad idea! These fish can be very aggressive towards their own species and will often hurt each other very badly- or worse.

    It is possible to keep two bettas together in the same tank if you have a divider in the aquarium. A tank divider is a physical barrier that keeps the fish apart but allows water to flow between both sides of the tank, making water quality easier to maintain.

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    A divider that is opaque or partially clear is the best bet because this minimizes flaring and fighting between the fish on either side of the divider. Your bettas will be able to sense each other even with a solid divider in the tank, so using separate tanks is recommended unless you plan on breeding the fish.

    Breeding Betta fish

    You’re probably wondering how betta fish breed if the males and females are so aggressive toward each other! There is a good video by Aquaplanets that shows the process below.

    It is possible to breed betta fish at home, although you need to be quite careful to avoid aggression and fighting. Keeping the pair together in a divided tank is a great way to introduce them safely since they will be able to sense each other’s hormones and prepare to reproduce.

    Only healthy, well-conditioned male and female bettas should be bred, and the pair should be moved into a separate, dedicated breeding tank. The female can be kept in a breeder box until the male has built his bubble nest and they are ready to mate.

    Once the eggs are laid, the female should be removed from the tank because the male will begin to attack her. He does this because female bettas will eat their own eggs. The male fish can be kept in the breeding tank until all the eggs have hatched and the fry are free swimming.

    FAQs

    Is a male or female betta better?

    Both male and female bettas make wonderful pets, so it’s impossible to choose which is best! Male betta fish usually have a better variety of bright colors and longer fins, however, so they tend to be more popular as display fish.

    Can 1 male and 2 female betta fish live together?

    You should not attempt to keep male and betta fish together in the same tank. Sure, it does work out now and then, but there’s a good chance that it will end in tragedy because these fish often fight to the death.

    Are male or female bettas easier to take care of?

    Male and female bettas have the same general care needs, so they are equally easy to care for.

    Are female bettas less aggressive than males?

    Females tend to be less aggressive than male bettas but this is not always the case. In fact, female bettas often kill males, so both sexes should be treated as aggressive fish.

    Can female bettas be kept together?

    It is possible to keep females together but this is not advisable for beginner fish keepers. This type of setup is known as a betta sorority and should consist of at least 5 females in a tank size of 20 gallons or more.

    Should female bettas be alone?

    Female betta fish can be kept alone, and this is the easiest and safest way to care for them. They need a heated and filtered tank of at least 5 gallons to stay healthy in the long run.

    Are female bettas aggressive?

    Female betta fish can be very aggressive. They tend to be less aggressive than the male bettas but each female betta fish has her own personality of course.

    How can you tell if a betta fish is a female?

    Female betta fish tend to be smaller and less colorful than their male counterparts. They also have a thicker body, shorter ventral and anal fins, a smaller gill plate cover, and a characteristic egg spot at their vent.

    Final Thoughts

    Knowing how to tell the sexes apart is really important, especially if you plan on breeding these fish or setting up a sorority tank. Unfortunately, pet stores don’t always keep female betta fish in stock because they aren’t as colorful as the males, but that doesn’t mean they aren’t awesome pets!

    After reading this article, you should have no problem in identifying female and male betta fish. Remember though- both male and female betta fish can be very aggressive so beginners should not keep more than one of the same species together.

    Male vs female betta fish- Which is your favorite? Let us know in the comments below!

  • 11 Best Plants for Small Aquariums (Nano Tank Guide)

    11 Best Plants for Small Aquariums (Nano Tank Guide)

    Nano tanks are where I’ve seen the most plant-related mistakes. people pick plants based on looks alone and end up with something that doubles in size every two weeks and needs to be ripped out constantly. I’ve planted a lot of small aquariums over the years, and the species that actually work long-term are the ones that stay compact, tolerate lower light, and don’t need CO2 injection to look good. These are my go-to picks for tanks under 20 gallons.

    Small tanks are where plant selection really matters. In a 5 or 10-gallon setup, one species that grows too aggressively can take over in a matter of weeks. I’ve set up several nano planted tanks using a soil substrate with a sand cap, and what I’ve learned is that the plant choices are just as important as the equipment. You want slow-to-medium growers that respond well to trimming and don’t require high-pressure CO2 to look their best. These 11 are the ones I keep coming back to.

    What Are They?

    Aquarium plants are can be aquatic or live out of the water. They can be used as natural filters in an aquarium and when planted correctly, can create incredible aquascapes that look like underwater gardens.

    It doesn’t matter whether you run a nano tank or keep a community aquarium, toxins are faster at blowing up in the tank than you imagine. To connect your fish to a healthy environment, devoid of toxins and stress resulting from debris, you need some good aquarium plants and regular maintainance.

    Aquarium plants are also used to prevent excessive algae growth. But it’s quite fascinating to know that there are more advantages to getting plants than the ones you’ve heard and read about.

    Pro Tip: To determine what looks best in what place, use the shortest plants in the foreground with the largest aquarium plants used as the background plants

    The Benefits

    The benefits live aquarium plants bring are great. Aquarium plants are perfect to boost oxygen, consumer nutrients toxins like nitrate, and manage the dietary needs of fish.

    They can also help with controlling algae growth and maintain an overall well-balanced ecosystem. But these are not the only advantages which they bring along. You get a long list of benefits of using freshwater aquarium plants I’m going to chalk out right away.

    Cleaning Water

    By producing oxygen and absorbing CO2, freshwater aquarium plants are perfect to introduce throughout aquarium tanks.

    Fish waste can be extremely toxic for your freshwater fish species, but there are nutrients found in the fish debris that the plants use to control algae growth and complete the nitrogen cycle.

    Shade

    If you have a small aquarium and using too many caves can be challenging, aquarium plants are for you.

    Depending on the size of your aquarium, some plants can work as a shield against stress and aggressive fish species. Since some fish species tend to shy away from social gatherings and prefer living in hideouts, you can use aquarium plants so your pet can feel comfortable and safe under their shade.

    Source Of Food

    A planted aquarium can be a great source of healthy food for your pet. Instead of looking constantly for expensive and new variations in their diet, you can supplement their menu with live plants.

    Aquarium Beauty

    Aquarium plants make your tank much more appealing and maintained. They can lace it with a natural look for both you and your fish to enjoy.

    Betta Tank Setup

    Other than that, planted tanks are one of the best assets to fish during the spawning seasons. Most fish species will always go for plants to establish spawning sites and create a wonderful refuge for newly hatched fry.

    11 Best Plants For Small Aquariums

    It’s time to dive into the 11 best types of aquarium plants you can get for your small, risk-free aquarium. You can check out the video below from our YouTube channel to follow along. We go over in more detail in the blog post below. Please subscribe to our channel if you like our content!

    I will pen down the following information for each type so you can learn everything in detail.

    • Scientific Name
    • Common Name
    • Origin
    • Skill level
    • Lighting
    • Temperature Range
    • Flow Rate
    • CO2 requirement

    Let’s go over our list…

    1. Anubias Nana Petite

    • Scientific Name: Anรบbias bรกrteri var. nรกna (Engler) Crusio
    • Common Name: Anubias Nana Petite
    • Origin: West Africa
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium
    • Temperature Range: 72 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Low to moderate
    • CO2 requirement: Not necessary

    As a beginner aquatic with a small tank, Anubias Nana Petite can be one of the best choices you can make. The plant does well in freshwater aquariums and can easily withstand environmental changes.

    Since it’s essential to make your aquarium look natural, the green-colored and tiny leaves of this plant can help you achieve that goal.

    Anubias Nana Petite is one of the best foreground plants that should be attached to the base of the hardscape around the mid-ground area. You can refer to this plant as a carpeting plant that ranks as one of the smallest Anubias Plants in the aquarium hobby.

    The low maintenance of Anubias Nana Petite makes it perfect for novices, but make sure you pay attention to its rhizome. The rhizome should stay above the substrate, and the plant should be exposed to low light to grow. It usually grows slowly so don’t lose your patience.

    2. Cryptocoryne Parva

    Cryptocoryne Parva

    Parva is one of the smallest Cypt plants available in the aquarium trade. A slow grower

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    • Scientific Name: Cryptocoryne parva
    • Common Name: Dwarf Water Trumpet
    • Origin: Sri Lanka
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low
    • Temperature Range: 73 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Low to moderate
    • CO2 requirement: Not necessary

    Originating from Sri Lanka, Cryptocoryne Parva is now known as one of the best aquatic plants around the world.

    Depending on cultivation, Cryptocoryne Parva stays the same in coloration. A good thing about this plant is that it is small and worth your investment.

    Compared to other Cryptocoryne plants, this one needs more lighting to grow leaves underwater. The plant can shed leaves as a natural process called Crypt Melt when placed in freshwater home aquariums, but that’s natural. Once the plant gets familiar with the new environment and is placed under bright natural lighting, you will see it regrowing leaves in no time!

    Like Anubias Nana Petite, this is another great foreground plant on the list. The leaves of a Cryptocoryne Parva look similar to grass and grow wide above the water but narrow underwater.

    3. Dwarf Hairgrass

    Easy To Grow Carpet!
    Dwarf Hairgrass

    Dwarf hairgrass is an easy to grow carpet that is great for beginners. Purchase tissue culture plants to ensure pest free plants!

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    • Scientific Name: Eleocharis parvula
    • Common Name: Dwarf Spikerush, Small Spikerush, Dwarf Spike Rush
    • Origin: North America
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Temperature Range: 70 Fยฐ to 83 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate to fast
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

    Dwarf Hairgrass is pretty easy to manage given you take care of water parameters and other important elements of their basic care sheet. It is another foreground plant that you can include in some of the best carpet plants suitable for a small fish tank.

    This plant grows like aquatic grass across freshwater tanks with slim stalks looking like roots. The stalks grow horizontally and can give your tank a natural look.

    Dwarf Hairgrass can help you provide shelter to your bottom dwelling fish and spread out to make great ground cover. The hardy nature of a Dwarf Hairgrass makes it perfect for beginners.

    4. Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape

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    • Scientific Name: Bucephalandra spp.
    • Common Name: Buce Plant, Buceps
    • Origin: Borneo, Southeast Asia
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low
    • Temperature Range: 71 Fยฐ to 79 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate to high
    • CO2 requirement: No, but recommended

    With different variates, Bucephalandra is another great option to consider.

    Similar to Anubias and Cryptocoryne discussed above, Bucephalandra is also found in rapidly moving waters. With almost 150 years old, a Bucephalandra is considered now a top choice of small aquariums. The plant goes through climate change throughout the year. To give you a good estimate of its temperature tolerance, keep the plant water that’s between 71 F to 79 F.

    This plant can be relatively hard to find in a local fish store as compared to other plants. The plant displays vivid colored leaves and rhizomes that appear more in line.

    Here are two varieties of Bucyphalandra I’ll discuss in this article.

    1. Bucyphalandra Mini Coin

    Buce Mini Coin is another aquarium plant that is pretty simple to care for. The plant grows tiny green leaves and sits perfectly as a foreground plant. But It takes the plant a considerable time to grow. And due to slow growth, you might find it demanding to stay patient and see the magic of it.

    Bucephalandra plants are unique to find, and on top of that, this variation is even harder to get your hands on. But since you have a small tank, this plant can is perfect for you.

    2. Bucyphalandra Arrogant Blue

    This aquarium plant is another beautiful variation of Bucephalandra plants. Perfect for new aquarium owners, the plant leaves look round with a prominent center vein.  Even though the mature leaves are deep green, you can see shades of blue on the new leaves. Another thing that might strike your attention is the white dots visibly scattered across the new leaves.

    This beautiful plant is good to place in a nano aquarium or a layout that comprises small details.

    5. Christmas Moss

    • Scientific Name: Vesicularia montagnei
    • Common Name: Christmas Moss, Brazillian Willow Moss, Xmas Moss
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Temperature Range: 72 Fยฐ to 82 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Low to moderate
    • CO2 requirement: No, but recommended

    Since we are covering plants that can grow in a small aquarium, here’s another plant on the list called Christmas Moss that can make your planted tank sufficient for your fish.

    Christmas Moss is one of the most commonly used plants in the aquarium hobby. Despite having a slow growth rate, it creates a field across your tank and can be used as moss by your fish during spawning. You can also use this plant to provide a valuable hiding place for your fish and a source of food for small fish species and invertebrates.

    The plant resembles the shape of a Christmas tree because of its branches that droop and overlap each other. Christmas Moss might also look similar to Java Moss but there’s a considerable difference between the plants.

    Author's Note: Christmas Moss grows well when put completely under water. Due to its versatility, the moss can grow on land as well as on rocks and branches. It will grow faster out of water!

    6. Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’

    Monte Carlo Tissue Culture – UNS

    Tissue culture plants are grown in labs and are completely pest free and have great shelf lives

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    • Scientific Name: Micranthemum tweediei
    • Common Name: Monte Carlo
    • Origin: Argentina
    • Skill level: Easy to moderate
    • Lighting: Medium
    • Temperature Range: 68 Fยฐ to 77 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

    The Monte Carlo, scientifically classified as Micranthemum, is a magnificent carpeting plant that gives a velvety touch to the base of your aquarium.

    Found in streams and lakes, the plant is now a popular plant around the world.

    The plant has a moderate growth rate, and if managed properly, it can spread quickly, creating a silky mat across your planted tank. Since it grows laterally, you can see small bright green-colored leaves popping out.

    The unique trait of Monte Carlo is that it can grow along the bottom but you can also use cuttings to create a cascade over the rocks.

    7. Staurogyne Repens

    • Scientific Name: Staurogyne rรฉpens (Nees) Kuntze
    • Common Name: Staurogyne Repens
    • Origin: South America
    • Skill level: Moderate
    • Lighting: Moderate to high
    • Temperature Range: 68 Fยฐ to 86 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

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    Staurogyne repens is one of the best foreground plants for a nano aquarium. This is not a difficult plant to care for. In fact, this is quite a hardy plant that you can easily manage as a beginner.

    Staurogyne repens gives a fresh greenish look to the aquariums. Under bright light, the plant can grow long and upright shoots. It’s better to place this aquarium plant under low light and let it grow gradually and colonize the gravel at its own pace. This plant, like other mid ground plants, can be placed in the middle ground of the aquarium.

    Staurogyne repens grow horizontal shoots as soon as you cut the upright and longest shoots. And due to the fast growth of the plant, it’s recommended to maintain low density. You can do this by letting the emergent leaves die under the water.

    8. Helanthium Vesuvius

    • Scientific Name: Helรกnthium boliviรกnum (Rusby) Lehtonen & Myllys
    • Common Name: Echinodorus Vesuvius
    • Origin: Singapore
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Medium
    • Temperature Range: 50 Fยฐ to 86 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate to fast
    • CO2 requirement: Not necessary

    Helanthium Vesuvius or famously known as Vesuvius Sword Plant is a relatively new plant to the aquarium hobby. With its usual ability to grow leaves in a way that makes them appear projecting from the plant base like a spiral sword, this plant is a perfect fit for a nano aquarium.

    The plant typically grows above the water, hence, it can grow wider leaves above the water level. Apart from this, you can also see flower buds appearing out of nowhere. For a beginner, this plant is a good option to consider. Due to the large size, you can use Helanthium Vesuvius as a background plant for your nano tank.

    9. Sagittaria Subulata

    • Scientific Name: Sagittaria Subulata L.
    • Common Name: Arrowhead, Awl-leaf, Narrow-leaved Arrowhead, Dwarf Sagittaria
    • Origin: South America
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low
    • Temperature Range: 59 Fยฐ to 84 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Moderate to high
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

    Sagittaria Subulata is a pretty easy-to-care and one of the best beginner aquarium plants that you can place with one of your foreground plants in your tank.

    The reason I put this one on the list is the beautiful and uniquely designed leaves of this plant that look like a ribbon. Despite getting taller with time, the plant is still a good species for beginners to try out. It can withstand shifting water parameters, given you provide it with good natural lighting.

    Observing its appearance, you will see the plant resembles grass. It is not a slow-growing plant. In fact, under certain conditions, it can grow up to 50cm long. Apart from this, Sagittaria Subulata can grow a long flower stem to the water surface and sometimes above that with tiny flowers appearing right above the waterline.

    One of the unique traits of this plant is that it can also grow thick clusters which can be slightly demanding to handle. To control the plant from growing thick groups and to keep the carpet to a moderate length, remove runners with longer leaves now and again.

    Pro tip: Sagittaria Subulata is already a fast-growing plant. Use of Carbon Dioxide since it can trigger growth that can make this plant highly demanding to handle.

    10. Alternanthera Reineckii ‘Mini

    • Scientific Name: Alternanthera Reineckii
    • Common Name: Rosaefolia minor, AR mini
    • Origin: South America
    • Skill level: Moderate
    • Lighting: Moderate
    • Temperature Range: 73 Fยฐ to 80 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

    If you’re looking for something unique in appearance, then give AR Mini a try.

    This is a dwarf variant of the well-known plant species Alternanthera Reineckii. It is a perfect fit for nano aquariums but you can also use it for a large tank.

    Since it’s a stem plant, you have to give it a good amount of light to properly grow. Giving CO2 can also help it hit the optimum growth mark.

    The plant has poor tolerance for disturbed water parameters so it’s recommended to avoid drastic changes.

    It’s one of the very few foreground plants that has a bright red appearance. You can create a dense carpet by making partial trimmings.

    11. Moss Balls

    Budget Option
    Marimo Moss Ball

    Budget Option

    A cheap and easy to care for aquarium plant. Thrives in low light and very low maintenance

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    • Scientific Name: Aegagropila linnaei
    • Common Name: Moss balls, Lake balls, Cladophora ball
    • Origin: Northern Europe and Japan
    • Skill level: Easy
    • Lighting: Low to medium
    • Temperature Range: 72 Fยฐ to 78 Fยฐ
    • Flow Rate: Low
    • CO2 requirement: Yes

    These little green balls are not moss, but algae that look incredible in small tanks. The fascinating thing about the marimo moss ball is that the action of waves helps it keep its round shape intact. In the wild, these moss balls thrive in cold water, making it slightly endangered species to house in home aquariums.

    To get the best out of them, get those moss balls that were cultivated using environment-friendly methods. For a beginner, Moss balls are pretty easy to care for. But you have to consider a few things to ensure they survive.

    Unlike other more resilient plants, Moss balls have to be placed in cool water so that they can live longer.

    You should always keep them in an area where the sunlight doesn’t fall directly on them. Too much light or inadequate lighting are both dangerous to this species. They can turn brown if the light is too bright or too low. Things like going out of shape can happen as a result. You have to make the water move so it can melt back to its original shape.

    Apart from this, these algae balls need fertilizers for proper growth. They grow slowly but once they get their preferred conditions in a home tank, these moss balls can grow up to 12 inches.

    FAQS

    How do you grow plants in a small fish tank?

    There are a lot of factors that determine the potential of growing plants in a home aquarium. Probably the most contributing factor is proper lighting. Plants need at least 8 hours of sunlight to grow into strong plants.

    Things like deep filtration, water temperature, acidity levels, substrate, Carbon Dioxide, and how well you plant them also matter. You should also consider fertilizer for carpet plants since plants gather nutrients from it.

    How can I keep my fish tank plants short?

    Ground-covering plants can sometimes grow too big to manage in a small tank. To prevent unnecessary growth, trim your plants regularly. Make sure you cut the upper shoots a few centimeters using Wave Cutters. You can also use Spring Scissors designed specifically for trimming plants.

    What is a plant only fish tank called?

    Planted tanks are the type of aquarium setup that allows you to buy, arrange and take care of your favorite plants in a single setting. Like a fish tank that can combine different plants, a planted tank can also have fish, but the main focus remains on plant life.

    What are foreground fish tank plants?

    Choosing the right plants according to your aquarium size, type and setting are important.

    If you are looking for a plant that you can place at the base then foreground plants are perfect for you. Foreground plants are those aquarium plants that you can place at the foot of a hardscape layout or around the middle ground area.

    These plants are also known as carpeting plants that grow a field across the aquarium ground and are always pretty small.

    Is Anubias a foreground plant?

    There are at least 8 different species from the genus Anubias. Some plants are background plants while others are foreground plants. You can also see Anubias plants used for the midground.

    Closing Thoughts

    While most people think of plants as needing a lot of space, there are actually plenty of varieties that do very well in small aquariums. Many of these plants are also easy to care for and require little to moderate maintenance, making them perfect for beginner aquarists or those who donโ€™t have a lot of time to dedicate to their hobby. If you have any experience keeping small plants in your aquarium, let us know in the comments!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.