One of the questions I get all the time from newer goldfish keepers is whether their fish actually sleep. usually after they notice their goldfish just sitting motionless at the bottom of the tank and start panicking. I’ve kept goldfish and seen this behavior more times than I can count. It looks alarming if you don’t know what you’re seeing, but once you understand what’s actually happening, it becomes one of those things you can actually use to gauge whether your tank environment is healthy.
Goldfish do sleep. they just don’t look like it. Without eyelids, they can’t close their eyes, which is why you’ll find them hovering motionless in a corner of the tank at night looking like they’re staring at nothing. After keeping and filming goldfish extensively over the years, I still find it funny how often this startles people who check on their tank late at night.
What’s worth knowing as a keeper is that goldfish need a consistent light/dark cycle to rest properly. Leaving your lights on 24/7 is one of those quiet stressors that’s easy to overlook but affects long-term health. Here’s exactly how goldfish sleep, what to look for, and how to make sure your setup supports it.
Key Takeaways
Goldfish do, in fact, sleep. Fish can enter deep sleep at night1
A resting goldfish and a sick goldfish are two different things. Learn about the differing behaviors
Incorrect parameters can lead to a fish resting or getting sick. Keep your parameters in check and monitor them
How Do Goldfish Sleep?
Goldfish might not tuck themselves under the covers each night, but they certainly do sleep! However, fish don’t sleep in the same way that you and I do. When goldfish sleep, their metabolism slows, and they become inactive. Research has shown that fish can enter deep sleep at night1.
Until recently, fish were not thought to exhibit rapid eye movement or REM sleep like ourselves and other mammals. However, scientists have discovered that zebra danios enter a pretty similar state. We don’t know if danios or other fish like goldfish dream, but it’s certainly possible.
Goldfish sleep at the bottom of their tank to feel safer from predators. You might also find them sleeping between live plants or aquarium decorations where they can stay more still and feel secure.
Why Do They Sleep?
All that swimming and exploring in your aquarium certainly tires out your goldfish, so they need to rest regularly to stay healthy.
When
Goldfish don’t fall asleep like people each night, but they get most of their rest when it’s dark. That’s why providing your goldfish with a natural day and night cycle is important.
Running your aquarium lights all day and night can result in a sleep-deprived goldfish, so be sure to switch off the tank lights for at least twelve hours a day. Keeping your lights on for 6 to 8 hours a day is recommended because more than that can cause algae issues.
The best way to keep things regular in your tank is to set your aquarium lights on a timer. That way you won’t forget to switch the lights on or off.
Goldfish are sensitive to loud noises and sudden movements when they sleep at night. High noise levels will disturb your fish’s sleep schedule, so never put speakers or televisions next to your goldfish tank.
How Long?
Goldfish can sleep for short periods or for many hours at a time. Some goldfish nap during the day, while others sleep at night. Creating regular light and dark periods each day will allow your goldfish to develop its own natural sleeping pattern and get enough sleep.
Some goldfish owners report that their pets go to sleep in the same spot each night and are still there each morning. The important thing is to let your goldfish rest each day in a dark and quiet environment.
If your goldfish is not getting enough rest, it could cause stress and weaken its immune system in the long run.
Why Don’t Fish Close Their Eyes?
The simple answer to this common goldfish question is that fish don’t have eyelids. Eyelids are very useful for keeping our eyes moist and free of dust and other irritating particles. This isn’t a problem underwater, so goldfish don’t need to blink!
Is My Fish Sleeping Or Sick?
Many new goldfish owners are surprised to learn that their fish sleep, and it can be pretty worrying to see your pet sleeping motionless for long periods. However, you can rest assured that this behavior is completely normal.
However, goldfish can get sick with conditions like swim bladder disease from time to time, so it’s good to know if your goldfish is sleeping or showing signs of poor health.
Read on to learn what to look out for.
Signs Your Goldfish Is Sick
Seeing your goldfish sleep upside down or leaning to one side could indicate swim bladder problems. Swim bladder disorder is a common illness among goldfish and other pet fish. This condition causes buoyancy issues which can make your fish sink, float, or swim erratically.
Cloudy eyes, sores, or a white film over the body are often signs of a bacterial infection.
Missing scales, white spots, and scratching against the substrate are common signs of parasites.
Rapid breathing is a clear sign of stress, which can cause illness in your goldfish. Poor water quality, drastic water temperature changes, and disease can cause this common symptom. Rapid breathing can also result from low oxygen levels. Running an air pump and airstone can be helpful.
Signs Your Fish Are Sleeping
Your goldfish is sleeping if it’s stationary at the bottom of the tank or hovering about an inch above the substrate. Most healthy goldfish rest at night when it’s dark, but you might find your goldfish sleeping any time.
Sleeping goldfish often tilt their head downward slightly but keep their body upright.
Your goldfish’s color might be a little dull when it is sleeping. This can help your fish hide from predators.
Sleeping fish can breathe without swimming. They gulp water to maintain a constant flow through their gills.
What To Do If They Are Sick
Accurately diagnosing illnesses in freshwater fish can be tricky, but you can often find the cause of your fish’s health problems, and there’s a good chance that you can treat your pet at home.
Fish get sick when they are under stress, and stress is often caused by bad environmental conditions. What does that mean? Well, your fish need clean, healthy tank water at the right temperature.
Test your water quality
Goldfish are pretty messy fish, so they need good filtration and a tank of at least 30 gallons to stay healthy. Your water quality can become dangerous if you don’t cycle your aquarium and perform regular water changes.
Your water should contain no traces of ammonia or nitrite. Nitrates can harm goldfish in high concentrations, so keep them below 40 ppm. A level of 20 ppm or less is ideal for long-term care.
Goldfish are coldwater fish that prefer a lower temperature range than most other fish. They should be kept in water temperatures between 68 and 74°F. Tropical fish tank water temperatures will harm your goldfish in the long run.
Aquarium heaters are adjustable, and they do show the water temperature. However, these readings can be pretty inaccurate. I recommend getting a thermometer so you can monitor your water temperature easily.
Digital thermometers with built-in alarms are great for this purpose. These handy machines let you know if the water gets too hot or cold for your goldfish.
Other Parameters
Poor water quality with high ammonia levels and high water temperature are common causes of stress, but goldfish also have other preferred water parameters. Aim for the following readings:
You can test these parameters with a master test kit. Any inconsistencies can cause stress on your goldfish and will need to be addressed as soon as possible.
Treating
Providing correct treatments for your goldfish can mean the differences between live and dead fish. Goldfish are susceptible to many illnesses, and it’s not always the fishkeeper’s fault when things go wrong.
Let’s look at some things you can do to help a sick goldfish.
Move the sick fish into a quarantine tank
A quarantine tank is a small tank where you can administer treatments to your sick goldfish without affecting your other fish or aquatic animals. Your quarantine tank should hold at least a few gallons of water and have its own filter.
Test the water before moving your fish. If the water in your main tank is the problem, you’ll need to use fresh, dechlorinated water instead.
Observe Your Goldfish
If your fish is not in obvious danger, observe it for a few days and give it a chance to recover. Starting an immediate treatment is not always necessary.
Treatment
If your goldfish is in obvious distress or not improving, contact your vet and ask for advice. There are some excellent fish medications available that you can administer yourself at home.
Condition-specific medicines are highly effective, but you can also treat several common fish illnesses with aquarium salt.
FAQs
Do The Sleep With Their Eyes Open?
Goldfish cannot close their eyes because they do not have any eyelids. This means they have no choice but to sleep with their eyes open.
Do Goldfish Recognize Their Owners?
Goldfish do have the ability to recognize their owners. It has been proven that some fish can recognize human faces, which probably explains why your goldfish might recognize you but fear other people.
Do Goldfish Need Light At Night?
Goldfish do not need light at night. Goldfish naturally sleep at night in nature when the only light comes from the stars and the moon. You can keep your aquarium lights on for a few hours in the evening to enjoy your fish, but make sure the lights go off for the rest of the night.
How Many Hours Do They Sleep?
Goldfish sleep for 8 to 12 hours per day.
Why Do They Sleep On The Bottom Of The Tank?
Goldfish tend to sleep on the bottom because it helps them hide from predators. There is also much less current at the bottom, so they can relax and sleep without being washed around.
Do They Like It Dark At Night?
Goldfish prefer a natural daylight cycle of light and dark. Keep your tank dark during the day if you like to have your aquarium lights on at night.
Is It Normal For Them To Rest At The Bottom Of The Tank?
Goldfish sleep at, or just above, the bottom of their tank. They may stay on the bottom, sitting still for several hours. However, your goldfish may be sick if it is upside down, on its side, or breathing rapidly.
Final Thoughts
So now you know, goldfish sleep too! Don’t worry if you find your fancy goldfish sleeping. They need their forty winks, too, even if it is technically impossible for them to get any shut-eye.
Have you seen your goldfish sleeping? Tell us about it in the comments below!
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Losing fish is one of the most discouraging parts of this hobby, especially when you can’t figure out why it keeps happening. After 25+ years of keeping tanks, I can tell you that the vast majority of fish deaths come down to a short list of avoidable causes. The most common by far: an uncycled tank with ammonia spikes that new keepers don’t test for because they don’t know what they’re looking for yet.
If you’re losing fish and can’t pinpoint why, this guide walks through all 12 common causes with what to check and test for each one. Start with water quality. it’s the answer more often than not.
Key Takeaways
Stress and disease are the primary reasons why fish will die
Poor tankmates and improper water parameters can lead to stress
Regular maintenance is a great way to keep stress down and keep your fish healthy
Top 12 Reasons Why Your Fish Are Dying
1. Improper Tank Setup
The most frequent cause of fish death is an improper aquarium. When the fish tank is not set up properly, most of the time, all or many of the fish perish. It primarily occurred with beginners. The fish may pass almost instantly in extremely severe tank conditions, but usually, it takes a few days or a week. It occurs as a result of improper tank cycling.
We tend to believe that aquariums are home to only fish, not realizing that a healthy aquarium also includes tiny organisms, of which a healthy bacterial colony is an integral part. Although they are distributed throughout the tank, the gravel and filter continue to hold the majority of them. They aid in the tank’s waste breakdown and maintain the water’s quality.
Bacteria have a symbiotic relationship with the fish by eating and surviving off the fish and their food. In return, the bacteria help to make the water in the tank suitable for the fish. Therefore, a balance between the two is necessary to maintain the tank’s health.
A microbial colony is absent from a new or fresh tank. As a result, you must cycle a new tank to establish the microbe colony1. A fish tank typically comes with an instruction book that explains how to cycle it.
However, I advise learning more about the nitrogen cycle and the various ways to cycle a new aquarium so that you are aware of the options and may choose the most appropriate approach. Avoid introducing the fish until the tank has completed its cycle.
Even if you’ve already cycled the tank properly, avoid adding too many fish at once in a fish tank. The germs require time to multiply, along with the quantity of fish in your tank.
Therefore, if you intend to add 15 to 20 fish to your aquarium, we advise adding four or five at a time over a period of weeks. This will allow the bacteria colony to grow at its own rate; hence, the death rate will be much less.
2. Stress and Disease
The most common reason for a fish’s death is stress and diseases. The stressed or diseased fish will most likely die if you don’t solve the problem. The main cause of stress in fish is the lack of tank preparation, which is imperative to maintaining an overall healthy fish tank.
Surprisingly, all the ten reasons for your fish deaths cause stress in your fish in one way or another. However, here are some common signs that your fish is stressed out.
Surfing around the glass
If you see your fish continually swimming up and down and furiously moving around the sides of the tank, it may be because they are stressed. This is known as surfing around the glass.
It demonstrates how the fish feels trapped inside the aquarium and longs to enjoy himself somewhere else. It might be due to the aquarium being too full, the water not being of good quality, certain species attacking it, or anything else.
Diseases
Another significant factor contributing to stress in fish is illness.
Illness is also caused by stress. If a fish becomes ill frequently, it may be because it is experiencing ongoing stress.
They are more susceptible to contracting various illnesses because stress negatively impacts immunity. Identify the origin of the stress since, if there is an ailment, one fish could spread the sickness to the entire school of fish, so be careful to know the cause.
Losing weight
If you find that your fish are getting thinner than they used to be, this indicates that they are losing weight for some reason.
Although you can’t always weigh the fish, you can still detect if they are starting to lose weight. Even after eating a healthy meal, stressed fish may begin to lose weight and feel lethargic.
Excessive hiding
When we’re terrified, we all tend to hide. Similarly, fish behave the same as humans by hiding when they feel uneasy or desire some calm.
Your fish may be trying to hide under the plants, at the bottom of the tank, or beneath the aquarium accessories; if you spot them doing this, the causes are evident.
Your fish are facing bully or aggression from other aggressive fish
Small or inadequate tank size for your fish
Thus, before choosing any tank mate for your fish aquarium, be sure to research the behavior, the compatibility with other species, and the minimum tank size required to keep your fish healthy.
3. Aggressive Tankmates & Incompatible
Some fish species have a hostile nature. Other fish will battle with them. Tiger barbs are well-known for this type of behavior. They make the other fish in the tank anxious. That might be the cause of some of them passing away.
To cater to this, I advise having a backup little tank handy when you set up your first fish aquarium. Take note of the fish community’s activities in the main tank. The combative ones can be moved to another tank.
4. Water Quality and Water Parameters
You can only imagine how crucial it is to maintain ideal water quality to keep fish disease-free and alive! Your aquarium’s water is the contained environment that supports your fish.
Numerous variables, most of which are primarily related to unstable water characteristics, might result in a decline in water quality.
If you haven’t been checking the water in the tank with aquarium test kits, a lot of guesswork is probably involved in determining why your fish keep dying.
The majority of aquarium fish have a rather narrow range of water requirements that they must meet in order to survive. Therefore, crystal-clear water is not always a good indication of the quality of the water in a tank.
Here’s what you can do to maintain water quality and water parameters for a healthy fish tank.
Every week, test the various water characteristics (pH, ammonia/nitrites, salinity, water hardness, Mg, Ca, etc.).
Keep pH levels stable and within an acceptable range for the fish species, you have in the tank rather than attempting to achieve the ideal pH level (or any other parameter).
If your fish keep dying, do this! To stop further pet fish deaths, act quickly when there are obvious warning signs (ammonia level spikes). This might entail performing a 50% tank water change right away, followed by careful monitoring of the ammonia/nitrite levels until the water quality is stabilized.
5. Wrong Aquarium Size
The right tank size for your setup depends more on the quantity and kind of fish you intend to keep in it than it does on where you intend to keep it.
Fish can become so stressed out that they eventually die when kept in a tank that is too tiny to allow them to have free swimming spaces. Although a bit extreme, it is possible because stress increases the susceptibility of fish to illnesses and early demise.
The most common reason for getting the wrong-sized tank is when a fishkeeper purchases pet fish when they are still young without doing any study on how big those fish can go or what their tank setup requirements are.
To avoid this, there are two things you should consider before buying the fish tank.
The place where you’re going to place the tank
Fish species you want in your aquarium.
6. Overfeeding In Enthusiasm
You might be tempted to feed your fish more and more as you learn how to keep a freshwater fish.
The majority of fish species will consume everything that is presented to them. You could keep eating indefinitely if you are not stringent about how much food should be supplied at a time.
It’s possible that the fish won’t eat everything. The fish waste, along with waste, and uneaten food, will start accumulating towards the bottom of the tank. And if not removed, it taints or pollutes the tank water soon, which results in sick fish.
Additionally, the fish will have a bloated tummy from overfeeding. They lack a bodily system that would allow them to detect fullness. They will therefore continue to eat, fall ill, and pass away.
Algae blooms are another issue related to overfeeding. A nitrogen-rich meal will make the tank greener. The tank will still appear unkempt and unattractive even if you have algae eaters. As a result of having more food, such as algae and uneaten fish flakes, snail populations may also increase.
Even though the bacterial colonies and microbes in the tank will work on the uneaten food particles, if circumstances are out of your control, the water in the tank will become toxic and harm the fish.
7. Poor Water Filtration And Equipment Failure
In an aquarium, dilution is the best defense against contamination.
Simply said, that means you must discard some soiled water and replace it with clean water. By doing this, you improve the beneficial bacteria colony that is helpful to fish while also diluting garbage and dangerous toxins.
Make sure you don’t remove a lot of the old water in this phase because doing so will also get rid of the beneficial bacteria.
A monthly change of about 30% for aquariums with plants and 20% for aquariums without plants will produce good results. You can modify your water change amount and schedule based on your nutrient levels.
Even if you have algae eaters in your fish aquarium, you still need to get dirty once a month to completely remove all of the algae from your fish tank.
Glass and decorative items are covered in algae and need to be cleaned frequently. Algae outbursts can cause a variety of issues, including deteriorating the tank’s aesthetics, poor water quality, supplying food for the growth of snails, and upsetting the equilibrium of your aquarium.
Although you can find several chemicals and solutions to eliminate algae, you should avoid using them.
Use scrubbers and scrappers made specifically for fish tanks as an alternative. They contain a magnet, so you can clean them without putting your hands inside the tank.
I love the Flipper. Just put it in your aquarium and clean from the outside. You can even move it to other sides of the tank with its flipper feature. Simply Amazing!
Feed your fish only once or twice daily, depending on their nutritional requirement. Always feed them enough food that they can complete it in two minutes. Some fish actually do better fasting one day of the week to clear their digestive systems
Clean the fish waste produced and food waste by occasionally siphoning the gravel in your fish tanks
Regularly inspect and clean the aquarium’s filtration system. On the filter media, leftover food will accumulate and degrade the filter’s performance
Adding fish that are bottom feeders is a good option for keeping a community tank clean
8. Not Keeping Up With Maintenance
This is a common reason why fish die. In most cases, ammonia and nitrites begin to accumulate in the aquarium water, resulting in ammonia poisoning.
The introduction of too many fish into the aquarium at once may be the cause of the abrupt rise in the levels of harmful substances.
Large-scale fish introductions will quickly degrade the habitat, and many fish species won’t be able to adapt if you don’t set up a reliable maintenance cycle for cleaning the aquarium.
Carbon dioxide (CO2) and oxygen (O2) cooperate in fish aquariums. The amount of carbon dioxide in the tank’s water drops when oxygen levels rise and vice versa. This is a routine procedure.
Due to the activities occurring in your fish tanks during the night, oxygen levels are lowest around sunrise.
The amount of oxygen increases throughout the day as the sun comes up, reaching its highest point at dusk. The carbon dioxide, which is at its lowest at this time of day, begins to climb after sunset and peaks soon before daybreak.
It’s crucial to prevent carbon dioxide peaks brought on by green algae blooms from causing your pond fish to perish. The most effective method for doing this is to utilize a UV clarifier.
How does CO2 enter your tank?
Aquatic life, including fish, snails, algae, and aquatic plants, create carbon dioxide through respiration (breathing). Additionally, it is created by decomposing organic debris on the pond floor, such as leaves, uneaten fish food, and algae blooms.
9. Changing The Aquarium Water Rapidly
The aquarium’s water has to be changed periodically. The full supply of water shouldn’t be replaced all at once, though. Partial water changes are generally best.
Before adding the water to the tank, it should be treated. You may replenish the water in the tank by taking some out. Nitrites levels will rise, and your fish won’t be able to handle it if you’re completely changing the water or if you add fresh water without first treating it.
10 . Filling The Fish tank With Tap Water Directly
Chlorine or chloramines are frequently present in the water you receive at home. The chlorine that has been dissolved in the water will be released after being set aside for a day, making the water cleaner. For the purpose of removing chloramines from the water, you must purchase specific chemicals.
If you don’t take these safety measures, the fish will be harmed by the newly added water. I had the unfortunate experience of having a friend of mine kill her Betta Fish because she forgot to treat the tap water during a water change. Don’t make that error!
11. Old Age
The most common reason for the death of most fish is old age. Let’s be honest. Like us, fish are living creatures that will die someday in one way or another.
Especially if your fish is aged and has a history of ownership, it may have lived its life to the fullest, and hence your fish died.
Aging is inevitable regardless of how well you take care of your fish. You cannot escape becoming older.
How long your fish will live totally relies on its breed. A healthy fish may live for ten years, whereas four years for bettas is considered ancient. Similarly, an unhealthy fish will not even survive a day.
12. Rough Handling
Can you picture being outside when all of a sudden you are kidnapped and placed in a cramped space?
Sounds exhausting, doesn’t it?
If your fish was wild-caught, it traveled halfway across the world and now finds itself in a little tank at your neighborhood fish shop, which is a significant change.
The fish you purchase can already be anxious from their lengthy travel. The final leg from the fish store to your house can also be deadly. And so, your fish die of stress and improper handling.
FAQs
How Do I Stop My Fish From Dying?
Check the nitrate and ammonium levels in a new tank on a regular basis, and change the water as necessary to lower the levels to a safe level for fish.
Rapid water changes: In a well-maintained tank with resident fish, plants, and bacteria, the water chemistry is carefully balanced.
Should I Change The Water After They Have Died?
Yes, you definitely should. No matter what caused your pet fish to die, you should always replace some of the water in the aquarium right after your fish died. Large volumes of ammonia will be released into the water by a rotting fish, and it is super harmful to other healthy fish in your fish tank.
Why Do They Die So Easily?
Fish can go into shock by sudden water changes and changes in water temperature, pH, or salinity, which quickly results in fish deaths. This is why it’s important to quarantine any new fish you bring home in a quarantine tank before putting them in your aquarium.
The temperature of the water in the bag and the water in your tank may vary significantly.
Why Are They Dying In My New Aquarium?
Because they are suffering from new tank syndrome. A new tank syndrome is a condition many fish keepers have to deal with when they newly set up the tank and don’t cycle it before adding fish into it.
Heavy quantities of nitrates and ammonium in the water can be lethal until a tank develops the proper water chemistry to sustain healthy fish. This condition is known as “new tank syndrome.” Fish may unexpectedly die until the natural microorganisms in the wYater are able to balance out these toxins.
Can You Save Them From Dying?
Yes, you can. With simple water changes and adjustments, the majority of dead fish may be quickly recovered.
You must maintain water quality if you want to keep your fish alive and in good health. Most pet retailers sell water testing kits for fish tanks. You may use these tests to find any water issues, such as excessive ammonia levels or ammonia poisoning.
Why Are My Fishes Are Dying Suddenly?
There are a number of factors that contribute to the sudden fish deaths in your aquarium. However, a few known reasons are:
Poor water quality
Frequent water changes
New tank syndrome
No tank maintenance
Poor water filtration and equipment failure
Final Thoughts
Like all pets, your fish has to go through the process of aging and eventually dying. However, sometimes, death comes too soon without any evident reason. And so, to help you figure out the reasons your fish die, I’ve written everything I know about fish deaths from my fish-keeping experience.
Just make sure to provide your fish with pristine water quality and water parameters, and you’ll have no problem raising your adorable finned pets again.
🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
One thing I always make clear when people ask about cheap fish: the fish itself is usually the least expensive part of this hobby. A $2 guppy still needs a properly cycled tank, a heater, a filter, and consistent water maintenance to thrive. The fish cost is the entry point. not the total cost.
That said, there are species that give you real value. colorful, active, interesting behavior, easy to keep. without spending much. After 25+ years in the hobby, here are my 10 picks for the best affordable fish, not just the cheapest, but the ones actually worth buying.
Key Takeaways
Inexpensive fish are ideal for beginners and young fish keepers.
Avoid sick fish that might not survive. Only buy from well-maintained pet stores and trusted online retailers.
Most fish need to be kept in schools. Remember to factor this into your budget.
When it comes to equipment, avoid low-quality products. It is better to buy smart and avoid unnecessary items.
Cheap Vs Expensive Fish – What’s the Difference?
Have you ever wondered why some fish cost more than others? There are a few good reasons for the different price tags, and they can also tell you something about the fish before you buy them. We have a video above from our YouTube Channel that helps illustrate and our blog post goes into more detail. Follow along with both to get the full detail.
Expensive fish tend to be rare and difficult to breed. Often they have to be caught in the wild, which certainly adds to the price when you factor in transport and other costs. Rare and expensive fish can also be difficult to care for.
Cheap fish are generally simple to breed and easy to care for, so they tend to be the most readily available.
The most common and well-known fish are popular for a reason, of course. They may not provide much of a challenge to experienced aquarists, but they make wonderful pets and great display animals in home aquariums.
Cheapest Pet Fish – 10 Great Options
Are you ready to learn about ten great fish breeds that won’t cost a fortune? These freshwater fish are great for beginners, but more experienced aquarists will also appreciate their great looks and fascinating behaviors.
Guppies are the ultimate cheap fish, often going for just a few dollars. These fish are so affordable because they are super easy to breed. However, there are loads of fancy guppy breeds out there and some of them can be surprisingly pricey.
Pick up a trio of standard guppies if you want a group of colorful and hardy fish that are easy to keep and care for. Guppies thrive in tanks as small as 10 gallons because of their small size.
2. Common Goldfish
Scientific name: Carassius auratus
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 30 gallons +
Fish size: 6 inches
School size: 1 +
Temperature: 68 – 74°F
pH: 6.8 – 7.2
Community tank suitability: Possible. Eats Plants
The common goldfish is another classic aquarium fish that can be bought for really low prices. These beautiful fish come in loads of different breeds, but commons, comets, and fantails tend to be the cheapest options.
Goldfish are awesome pet fish and they were first bred in ponds in ancient China. However, goldfish are more than just pond fish. They thrive in home aquariums with good filtration. These fish can grow to over 6 inches though, so steer clear of bowls and small tanks.
One of the benefits of keeping these cool water fish is that they don’t need a heater in most homes. This can save your electricity bill a little in the long run.
3. Zebra Danio
Scientific name: Danio rerio
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 15 gallons +
Fish size: 1.75 inches
School size: 8 +
Temperature: 64 – 74°F
pH: 6 – 8
Community tank suitability: High
Zebra danios are some of the cheapest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby. That doesn’t mean they aren’t great pets, of course! These active little fish bring any community freshwater aquarium to life with their speed and grace.
Zebra danios are really hardy, too, so they’re the perfect choice for beginners or young fishkeepers just starting out. You’ll need to pick up a school of at least 8 of these low-maintenance fish to see them at their best.
4. Molly
Scientific name: Poecilia sphenops / P. latipinna
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 30 gallons
Fish size: 4 – 6 inches
School size: 4 +
Temperature: 68 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8
Community tank suitability: High
Molly fish are another inexpensive tropical fish that offer great value for money. These hardy livebearers are so versatile that you can even keep them as saltwater fish with other marine fish species.
Mollies can reach about 6 inches, so they need a larger aquarium of at least thirty gallons. These fish eat a variety of food sources, but they also love to feed on algae which means they can help to keep your tank clean.
5. Platy
Scientific name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 10 gallons +
Fish size: 2 inches
School size: 5 +
Temperature: 70 – 80°F
pH: 7 – 8.5
Community tank suitability: High
Platy fish are low-cost live-bearing fish from the same family as guppies and molly fish. They come in many varieties, including yellow, blue, and multicolored types.
Platies are small fish, so you can keep them in a small fish tank with very inexpensive equipment. They also get along perfectly with many freshwater species, including many of the other fish on this list!
Betta fish are the first choice for fish keepers who want a single, low-maintenance fish that doesn’t need a large aquarium. These freshwater species come in all the vibrant colors of the rainbow, from yellow to blue and everything in between! Not only can they be cheap but also very expensive, depending on the species you want.
Betta fish also come in many different fin shapes like half moon, crown tail, and elephant ear. The female fish are a little smaller and less colorful, but they make great pets too.
Sadly, betta fish are often sold in cups and kept in small bowls and other tiny containers. These fish will not survive for long in such an unhealthy environment; set your pet up with a 5-gallon (or larger) aquarium with a heater and a filtration system.
Neon tetras are amazing fish for any home aquarium. A neon tetra school will usually cost just a couple of dollars but the movement and color they can provide in your aquarium are priceless!
These tiny fish get along with many other peaceful freshwater fish too, so you can keep them with other inexpensive schooling fish.
8. Swordtails
Scientific name: Xiphophorus helleri
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 20 gallons +
Fish size: 4 inches
School size: 5 +
Temperature: 64 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8.3
Community tank suitability: High
Swordtails are Central American livebearers (video source) that thrive in a variety of water conditions. Only the males develop long, pointed tails, but the females have the same vibrant colors.
Swordtails can be kept with other inexpensive livebearers like guppies and mollies or kept in a school in their own space. They are some of the easiest fish in the hobby, so they are great for beginners too!
9. Corydoras Catfish
Scientific name: Corydoras sp.
Care level: Easy
Tank size: 15- 30 gallons (Depending on species)
Fish size: 1 – 4 inches
School size: 5 +
Temperature: 74 – 80 °F
pH: 7 – 8
Community tank suitability: High
Cory catfish are great fish for the bottom levels of a tropical tank. These inexpensive fish hang out in schools of their own species. They usually swim around on the bottom and even dig for food in the substrate which is fascinating to watch!
These peaceful freshwater fish come in a huge range of breeds and species, but you can’t go wrong with the cheaper options like albino and peppered corydoras catfish.
Scissortail rasboras are speedy freshwater fish that can turn a quiet fish tank into an exciting underwater world. These schooling fish are affordable, and they eat most things, including regular flake food.
Scissortail rasboras get their name from their bold, strongly forked tail fins. They are also known as the three-striped rasbora because of the distinctive markings on their silver gold body. These fish need a little more room because of their adult size and activity level.
Getting Started On a Budget
There are a million awesome gadgets, tools, and other equipment that you can buy, and everything has its place. The truth is that you can get started with a minimum of equipment, but there are a few things that you have to have.
Let’s jump in and learn what you’ll need!
Tank & Equipment
The first thing you’re going to need is an aquarium. Smaller standard tanks cost less than larger tanks but remember to match your aquarium to the type of fish that you plan on keeping.
Make sure your aquarium has a hood. Fish are strong jumpers and can easily escape an open tank if they want to. This isn’t just heartbreaking; it’s expensive too.
You will need aquarium lighting, a filter, and a heater too. Match your equipment to your tank size. Some species, like goldfish, don’t always need a heater, which can save you money on the initial cost and your electricity bill. However, most other fish will not survive for long in a tank with a cold water temperature.
You’ll also want some aquarium gravel and decorations to complete the setup. Shop around to find the best deals. It’s best to stick to aquarium-safe decorations designed for fish tanks.
Testing & Maintenance
Setting up a cost-effective tank and buying cheap fish is a great way to stay within your budget, but don’t forget to factor in your testing and maintenance equipment. Here’s what you’ll need:
A water test kit that can measure water parameters like nitrates and pH.
An algae scraper. You can use a razor blade, an old credit card, or a clean toothbrush too.
A gravel vacuum is necessary to maintain your water quality. You could make your own, but this important tool is affordable anyway.
Water conditioner. This is important for treating tap water and making it safe for your pets.
Food & Medicine
Fish food can be pretty expensive, although you’ll be surprised at how long it lasts. Most cheap fish have pretty unspecialized diets, so you can feed them tropical fish flakes or pellets that suit your fish size.
Pick up some frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp too. These supplementary foods are cheap and last for ages if kept frozen and fed sparingly.
Like all pets, live fish can get sick from time to time. It’s a good idea to be prepared if you live a long way from a pet store.
Aquarium salt is a great cure for many common fish illnesses, but there are also great disease-specific medicines that you might want to consider.
Other Tips
Buy used. There’s always a risk when buying used goods, but it can be a great way to cut costs when setting up a low-budget fish tank. However, try to test and inspect used items before paying.
Look out for sales. If you’re not in a hurry, shop around and wait for the best prices to come up when items go on sale.
Choose energy-efficient hardware. Check the box or label for the energy consumption figures before buying electronics.
Consider spending a little more on quality, long-lasting products that you won’t need to replace too often. Equipment with a good warranty can save you plenty of dollars in the long run.
FAQs
What Is The Easiest Type To Take Care Of?
Livebearers like guppies, mollies, and platys are some of the easiest fish to maintain. These colorful fish thrive on a diet of fish flakes, are happy in a variety of water conditions, and tend to be very healthy.
What Is The Least Expensive To Buy As A Pet?
Pricing will vary depending on where you buy your fish, but Zebra Danios are often the cheapest fish in the store. These hardy fish make great pets for beginners, and they get along perfectly with many other freshwater fish species. Zebra danios are a great value!
How Expensive Are They?
Aquarium fish prices vary hugely depending on species, size, and breeds. For example, great fish, like neon tetras, betta fish, and goldfish, usually cost just a few dollars. However, some Arowana fish and other rare fish breeds can even reach six figures.
Final Thoughts
Keeping fish is a great hobby for everyone. You don’t have to spend your life savings to buy some amazing fish and set them up in a great aquarium. Choose from the fish listed in this post, and keep my cash-saving tips in mind when you’re ready to get started!
What is your favorite low-cost aquarium fish? Let us know in the comments below!
🐟 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.
This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.
Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.
Hard Rule
Hornwort sheds needles constantly, especially in the first few weeks after introduction. This is normal, not die-off – the plant adjusts to new conditions. Clean up the needles regularly or they will clog the filter intake.
The Hornwort Plant is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.
Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.
This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.
A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Hornwort Plant
Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Hornwort Plant without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Hornwort Plant are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Growing Hornwort Plant
Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.
Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.
Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.
ASD Difficulty Rating: Easy – Beginner Plant
Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum) is a fast-growing, floating or anchored stem plant that tolerates a very wide range of conditions – cold or tropical, low or high light. One of the easiest aquarium plants available.
Key Takeaways
Hornwort is a low-maintenance, beginner-friendly, and pretty hardy plant to grow in a home aquarium
They are invasive plant species because of their high versatility rate and allelopathic qualities
They grow best as floating plants and can control algae growth
A Brief Overview Of Hornwort Plant
Scientific Name
Anthocerotophyta
Common Names
Hornwort, Foxtail
Family
Ceratophyllaceae
Origin
North America
Skill Level
Easy
Lighting
Moderate
Tank Placement
Background
Flow Rate
Moderate
Temperature Range
59 F° to 86 F°
Height
120 inches
pH Range
6.0 – 7.5
Growth Rate
Fast
Feed Type
Water column feeder
Co2 Requirement
No
Classification
Division
Magnoliophyta
Class
Magnoliopsida
Order
Ceratophyllales
Family
Ceratophyllaceae
Genus
Ceratophyllum
Species
C. Demersum (Linnaeus, 1753)
Hornwort Introduction
Hornwort is a well-known and one of the oldest aquatic plants that you still find in home aquariums and in the wild around the world.
They are scientifically recognized as Ceratophyllum Demersum while commonly known as either Hornwort or Foxtail. They belong to the Ceratophyllaceae family from the genus Ceratophyllum.
This hardy plant makes an ideal candidate for most aquariums, especially those that are run by beginners. Since Hornwort is highly skilled when it comes to adaptability, it can easily spread to new regions as an invasive species.
But that happens mostly in the wild so there’s nothing to worry about. Instead, we will focus on how this plant is an exceptional addition to your aquarium due to its appearance and resilience.
Origin And Habitat
Hornwort plants are native to South America though they are now available in every continent except Antarctica.
They were first introduced to the world by a Swedish botanist named Carl Linnaeus. There are only 100 to 150 species available, although you can find 300 species names published due to misidentification.
In the wild, this hardy plant grows on damp soil and can put up with a diverse range of conditions. This includes growing in tropical waters, as well as cold water temperatures, low lighting conditions, and even polluted environments.
Is This An Invasive Species?
Due to its versatility, ability to grow under various conditions, and easy propagation, the Hornwort can quickly turn into an invasive species.
But this is not the only reason they have a high potential to spread to other zones. Hornwort has allelopathic qualities, which is a phenomenon where plants with these biochemicals slow down or entirely prevent the growth and survival of other plants.
What Do They Look Like?
Apart from displaying qualities that help you maintain a healthy tank environment for your fish, Hornwort looks incredible in almost every aquarium setting.
, Hornwort looks dark green to yellow depending on the light intensity and water temperature. If the temperature is warmer, the plant will appear yellowish-green. But if it is kept under its preferred condition, you will see a dark green shade.
Hornwort doesn’t have true roots. It grows rhizoid (hair-like roots) which acts and functions like roots so the plant can stay intact in the substrate. Some people feel like the main stem grows multiple plants. But when you observe it, you notice that one plant grows multiple side shoots, creating the look of many plants.
When it comes to Hornwort leaves, they look dark green and are not completely smooth. The texture is somewhat bumpy. The leaves are tiny and are produced around the stem in a set of 6 to up to 12. The base comprises loosely packed and larger leaves, while the end has shorter and tightly attached leaves.
Stems are 2 inches in diameter, but they can go as tall as 2 feet. To prevent Hornwort from running over your tank, keep it properly maintained.
It is essential for Hornwort to produce flowers for reproduction. Hence the flowering plant will feature different colored flowers that are deep red, pink, or brown. The shades can vary depending on how strong or low the light is. These flowers bear an ovoid fruit that is 0.16 inches in size.
Placement And Lighting
Hornwort is placed in two different ways, each with its benefits.
This fast growing plant is commonly used as a background plant because of its huge size. But if you have a larger tank, you can also use it as a mid-ground plant.
Since Hornwort is a floating plant that can also survive when planted in the substrate, I will recommend you consider what types of fish you have in your tank. Small fish love floating plants because they create a dense mate overhead.
These mats block out light and keep the fish safe and make them comfortable. The surface dwelling fish will also love to see Hornwort floating on the water surface because they get to interact with them by weaving from stems to leaves and back.
As far as lighting goes, Hornwort doesn’t need too much light to grow. The plant already grows rapidly, making it challenging for planted tank owners to prevent it from growing to new locations. If you keep it under intense lighting, the plant might start growing even faster.
You can go for LED lights to give them medium lighting conditions. Keep the duration under 12 hours per day. But do not deprive the plant of proper lighting as it will impact the color of the plant.
Can They Grow Floating?
Even though with a versatile plant like Hornwort, you get plenty of freedom to decide its placement, the best way to grow Hornwort is as a floating plant. Because this way, this great plant gets finer access to light and carbon dioxide from the air. Also, you don’t have to make arrangements for it to float on the surface since the plant can float naturally.
It is possible to grow it by rooting it in the substrate or attaching it to a hardscape. But since Hornwort doesn’t have a strong root system, it will likely decompose.
What Are Good Tank Mates?
Compatibility is never an issue with Ceratophyllum Demersum since it is hardy and good to pair up with a wide range of fish and plants.
It has a high potential to survive nibbling even in a goldfish tank and become a source of food for adult and baby fish.
It’s still better to know what species make good tank mates in Hornwort planted tanks.
Ideal Tank Mates
Hornwort is surprisingly compatible with herbivorous fish because its leaves don’t appeal to them. The rough texture will prevent the fish from nibbling on it.
Snails like Nerite snails, Japanese Trapdoor snails, and Mystery snails are also good options to consider for Hornwort plants.
If you want to introduce shrimp in a fish tank inhabited by Hornwort, you can go for Red Cherry Shrimp, Black Rose, Blue Velvet, Green Jade, and Rill Shrimp.
The floating Hornwort plant will function as a refuge for most livebearers whenever they are mating. They will also provide small fish with shade and block out light that disturbs the day-to-day activities of fish species.
You can feel free to choose snails and shrimp from my suggestions to get help with cleaning up any plant debris. Hornwort sheds leaves, as a result of getting nibbed by aggressive and hungry fish. Snails and shrimp will clear up the bottom, preventing decomposing plant matter from polluting the tank environment.
Compatibility with Plants
If you want to grow plants alongside Hornwort, make sure you know about its allelopathy nature.
Hornwort grows fairly fast by readily devouring nutrients from the water. This helps prevent algae growth. But since Hornwort can outcompete new plants as well as those that don’t quickly devour nutrients, it is very likely that your other plants will suffer from the lack of nutrients. This will not kill the plants, but it can surely slow down their growth rate.
Another essential thing to consider is what plants will be under this great floating plant. Hornwort blocks out light, which is an issue for those plants that need intense lighting.
You can choose Java Fern, Anubias, Java Moss, Sagittaria, and American Water Weed for Hornwort planted tanks. These plants don’t need intense lighting to survive and can withstand Hornwort.
But avoid planting Duckweed as it has a faster rate of consuming nutrients.
Fish Species to Avoid
Like fish that get along well with Hornwort, there are some species that will damage the plant when they are hungry.
Fish species like African Cichlids, and Goldfish are not recommended to put in a fish tank where you have planted Hornwort.
As long as you feed your aggressive fish on time, the plant will sustain minor attacks on the leaves. But if your Goldfish is too hungry or your African Cichlid isn’t in a good mood, they will likely attack it too aggressively, resulting in serious plant damage.
Feeding (Fertilization)
The plant doesn’t need additional fertilizers to grow though occasional doses will make it fuller and healthier. You can go for Nitrogen and iron-based fertilizers for Hornwort to develop strong and fuller leaves and optimal coloration.
Hornwort grows incredibly fast by soaking up nutrients. If you choose to add fertilizers, other plants in your aquarium tank will highly appreciate it.
But since it has a reputation for eating up nutrients faster than other plants, you need liquid fertilizers for your tank so that other plants don’t starve to death. Add fertilizers at least once a week to make up for the loss of nutrients.
Pro Tip: Keep an eye out for nutrient deficiencies in your plants. The signs include leaves turning yellow, shortened internodes, and abnormal leaf coloration, such as bronze or purple leaves.
How Much and How Often to Feed?
The quantity and frequency of feeding depend on the number of plants and their individual needs. If your tank is heavily planted, then feed your plants accordingly. Keep factors like CO2, lighting, filtration, and maintenance in mind.
A planted tank should have higher numbers of nitrates so that the plants don’t have to compromise on the number of nutrients. And it becomes more essential when you have Hornwort.
Author's Note: If you have shrimp, make sure you don't overdo fertilizers and CO2. Some fertilizers have copper, which makes them lethal for shrimp and even Hornwort. Do your research!
CO2 Injection
As I mentioned above, you don’t need to add extra CO2. Medium access to carbon dioxide is enough for the plant to grow.
If you have a heavily planted tank, go for a higher dose of CO2. But in a small tank with limited plants, CO2 can trigger the already fast growth rate of Hornwort, which is extremely challenging to handle.
The highest end offering by CO2Art. This package includes everything you need to perform consistent and the highest quality CO2 injection in the industry!
Managing Ceratophyllum Demersum is easier than you think. It doesn’t matter whether you have any prior experience or you are a total beginner. You can take care of the plant fairly well.
First thing first, always do occasional trimmings and pruning. It ensures the plant doesn’t have massive growth and stays out of the lane of other plants.
How your plant grows will depend on how and where you trim it. For example, if you trim it from the main stem, it is likely that Hornwort will grow more from the sides. This will eventually lead it to have its branches out. But if you trim the sides, Hornwort will grow straight and stronger.
It can grow under medium to strong lighting. However, it is better to expose it to bright lighting so it can have optimal growth.
Planted Tank Parameters
Thanks to the hardy nature of Hornwort, these species can tolerate a wide variety of tank setups and temperatures.
In the wild, Hornwort grows in lakes, ponds, rivers, and marshes. They get to deal with different environments where water parameters vary.
Also, their versatility makes it easier for aquarium owners to grow them in small and large planted aquariums. When pruned regularly, Hornwort will fit in your small tank. But if you don’t trim it on time in a large tank, that will also be completely fine.
Hornwort needs at least a 15-gallon tank to thrive. Water temperature is one of the most important factors for proper growth. Expect it to grow 0.4 to 0.8 inches a day under its preferred temperature.
Keep water temperature 59 F°-86 F°, water hardness 5 to 15 dGH, and pH 6.0 to 7.5 to keep your plant healthy.
Filtration
Hornwort doesn’t need a strong filtration system as a natural oxygen booster.
But keeping water quality up to the mark is recommended. You should make water changes once a week and remove plant matter from the tank whenever Hornwort sheds leaves.
Pro Tip: Don't plant it close to a filter inlet so that it can stay safe from getting blocked by plant debris.
Flow
Hornwort prefers a gentle flow. While planting, make sure the needles don’t get stuck in the filter intake and disturb the water flow.
If the flow is too light, the fish that love medium flow will likely get stressed. Low flow will also influence your plant’s growth, making it appear bushier. But if it’s too strong, your plant will likely grow tighter together, while the fish that prefer medium water flow will also get disturbed.
Is the Hornwort Plant Right for You?
Before you buy a Hornwort Plant, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.
Experience level: Hornwort Plant are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
Temperament considerations: Hornwort Plant is territorial or aggressive. You need to plan tank mates carefully and provide enough space and cover to reduce conflict. They are not a good fit for peaceful community tanks with small, shy fish.
Feeding requirements: Hornwort Plant are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.
How to Propagate
Producing new plants is not a big deal for Hornwort.
The propagation happens through vegetative fragmentation. This method is widely used for invasive species. All you need to do is stop trimming for a few weeks.
Only separate one part of the plant from the rest and take the cuttings (video source) where the flow is low to moderate. After that, let it grow on its own. You don’t have to plant it; free-floating is the best way to propagate Hornwort.
You can either get a whole stem or only a small part from the main stem. The main stem grows multiple side shoots or, in autumn, buds. In their natural habitat, they form buds that sit on the ground when the weather is cold. Once the temperature gets warm, the buds start sprouting. These buds then turn into a new plant.
Another way to get multiple Hornwort plants is by cutting off the new growths of the plant and letting it grow. If you don’t have extra trimmings, you can ask around.
Health And Disease
There are countless benefits of introducing Hornwort to your fish tanks. But sometimes, the plant can become a hassle for those who don’t meet their basic needs.
Hornwort is famous for shedding needles or its needle-like leaves. It happens when there are huge water fluctuations or environmental changes. It can also happen due to a lack of nutrients or feeding it chemicals like liquid carbon.
The plant will go through normal shedding when you first introduce Hornwort to your tank. Once it gets used to the new environment, it will recover. But if the shedding doesn’t stop, you need to maintain the number of nutrients in the water or allow the plant to sit under intense lighting.
Another disease is Hornwort turning bronze. Even though the plant does well when the lighting is high, extreme lighting can influence the leaf coloration, causing it to turn brown from the tips. Sometimes warmer temperatures can also alter the color of the leaves.
Signs Of Health
A healthy Hornwort plant should be bushy, with its stems covered by thick needles. The color should be deep green, with the exception of the nips. Nips can take on a lighter shade of green. The needles are thin and stiff.
Apart from this, a healthy Hornwort will display long branches or side stems.
Where To Buy?
Hornwort is really famous and, therefore, widely available. You can purchase them online or get them from any pet store or fish store.
The plant is sold in bunches. A bunch of 3 shouldn’t cost more than 8$. Finding new trimmings online is tough since they don’t survive shipment well.
The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.
Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.
Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.
In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.
FAQs
How the Hornwort Plant Compares to Similar Species
Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.
The most common alternative to the Hornwort Plant is the Anacharis, another floating stem plant that grows fast and absorbs nutrients. Anacharis has smoother leaves and is slightly less messy, but Hornwort grows faster and tolerates a wider range of conditions. For pure nutrient absorption and ease, Hornwort has the edge.
Closing Thoughts
While it’s true that not all fast-growing plants are easy to care for, hornwort is a great example of a fast-growing plant that is appropriate for beginners. If you’re looking to add some greenery to your home but don’t have a lot of time or experience with plant care, hornwort may be the perfect option for you.
Fast-growing plants are one of the best tools in a planted tank. they out-compete algae for nutrients, fill in a new setup quickly, and give you immediate results while slower species establish. After years of planted tank work, I know which species grow fastest and where each fits best in a layout.
Fast-growing plants are the best natural algae control you can add to an aquarium. and I say that after 25 years of trying every chemical solution on the market. The principle is simple: fast growers outcompete algae for the same nutrients, especially nitrates and phosphates. In my early reef-keeping days I used chaeto in the sump for exactly this reason. In freshwater, I lean on hornwort, water sprite, and guppy grass for the same effect. The plants on this list grow fast enough to make a visible difference within days, which is exactly what a tank struggling with algae or a new cycle needs. The bonus is that most of them are nearly indestructible for beginners.
In this article, I’ll walk you through the 10 types of the fastest growing plants with all the basics you need to know.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Fast-growing plants are the most underrated tool in freshwater fishkeeping. After 25 years, I use them in almost every new tank I set up, not because hornwort or water wisteria are the most beautiful plants, but because fast growers do something no filter can: they pull ammonia and nitrates out of the water column in real time. In a cycling tank, that protects your fish. In an established system, it’s a buffer against parameter swings. The plants on this list are workhorses. Most are inexpensive, nearly indestructible, and fast enough to show visible growth within a week of planting.
Key Takeaways
The best thing about fast-growing aquarium plants is that they don’t leave nutrients for algae to feed on
You can use most of these fast-growing plants regardless of your experience
Most fast-growing plants are very easy to maintain and pretty hardy in nature
What Are Fast Growing Aquarium Plants?
Fast-growing aquarium plants are those plant species that help you keep algae at bay without any specific needs or requirements. Since they have a rapid growth rate, they don’t let nutrients stay in the water column for algae to consume for a long time.
In addition to that, most of these plants grow swiftly which makes them slightly demanding to manage in small aquariums. But if you know your way around them, these plants will be one of the best decisions you can make as an impatient aquarist.
Depending on the size of your aquarium, you can use them as background plants, mid-ground plants, and even as foreground plants.
The Benefits Of Fast Growing Plants
Listing down all the advantages of fast-growing plants can be challenging. But to help you understand some of the most important ones, I’ve put down these benefits you can surely get by planting them in your aquarium. I’ve also included a video from our YouTube channel so you can follow along as well. The blog post goes into further detail so check out both and subscribe if you like our content.
Algae Control
Excessive algae growth results from a high number of nutrients present in the water column. Apart from nutrients, algae thrive on light. Even though not all algae is harmful, the rapid growth of algae can be dangerous for your fish and plants.
Aquarium fish and plants can’t obviously go without water and light so you have to find ways to fight this overgrowth. In this case, the fast-growing aquarium plants are your solution.
Under their preferred conditions, these plants grow quickly by absorbing nutrients and light. When you observe how algae grow, you will notice that it, too, needs access to both.
While planting fast-growing aquarium plants, these fast-growing aquatic plants will compete for nutrients and light that will make algae starve, restraining the overgrowth and sometimes causing it to die altogether.
Food and Oxygen
Live aquatic plants make a good round diet for aquarium fish, shrimp, and fry and provide oxygen to the inhabitants of home aquariums. Plants are known to absorb carbon dioxide and promote a well-oxygenated environment that is beneficial for the fish.
A fast-growing aquatic plant helps better with oxygenating water and producing food since it doesn’t take too long to grow.
Shade
Aside from making otherwise drab aquariums beautiful to look at, fast-growing aquatic plants are popular for providing fish species with shade.
While smaller fish use them to stay away from getting nagged, these plants are perfect during the spawning season.
Mark’s Pick
Hornwort is my top pick for a fast-growing plant in almost any setup. It thrives in a huge range of water parameters (pH 6.0–7.5, 59–86°F / 15–30°C), grows several inches per week under moderate light, and can be left floating or anchored. In a new tank it outcompetes algae for nutrients, and in an established tank it gives fry and small fish excellent cover. The downside: it sheds needles when stressed. Keep water parameters stable and that stops within a week or two.
10 Of The Fastest Growing
Now I am going to walk you through 10 of the fastest-growing plants suitable for beginners, intermediate, and experienced aquarium owners.
You will read about their specific needs, and qualities, and how to keep them without any risks.
Perfect for controlling algae growth, Elodea is a fast-growing plant popular in the aquarium hobby for its hardy nature and ability to withstand a range of aquatic conditions. The plant goes by different names such as Brazilian waterweed, Anacharis, and Elodea Densa.
Since it has a rapid growth rate, it can absorb nutrients from the water column faster than algae.
Apart from that, the plant looks absolutely stunning in home aquariums and does well in a water temperature that stays between 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. Elodea is also perfect for young fish and invertebrates if you want to give them a nursery habitat.
Although the plant stays underwater, it can shoot white flowers above the water’s surface to produce seeds. Almost all species feature deep green stems and light green leaf blades. Some can vary slightly in colors, though.
To feed these plants, consider liquid fertilizers so that they can get enough minerals to survive. Also, iron deficiency is common among these plant species, usually visible when the leaves turn yellowish or when the edges become yellow or brown.
Author's note: Elodea can grow well if it freely floats, but for proper growth, it should be rooted in the substrate.
In addition to tolerating a wide range of water temperatures and higher levels of pH, Hornwort is an excellent choice for a number of reasons.
This background plant is highly adaptive, with the ability to reduce unwanted nutrients from the water column. This hardy plant is found in freshwater ponds, steady streams, and lakes, making it resilient when it comes to environmental changes.
It does best as a floating plant, but you can consider loosely attaching it to the substrate. One of the best things about Hornwort is that it gives fish a strong cover to use as a hideout and helps control algae by absorbing a large number of nutrients.
Hornwort doesn’t grow roots to soak up nutrients. Instead, the plant uses its stems and leaves to access nutrients in the water.
The main downside to Hornwort is that it grows very rapidly which can lead it to cover most of your aquarium. You have to make occasional trimmings once or twice a month to prevent them from blocking out lighting and becoming a hassle for other plants and fish species living in the aquarium.
Hornwort doesn’t require strong lighting as well as carbon dioxide injection. Keep the water temperature above 60 and below 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Pro Tip: Since Hornwort grows quickly, it can use up all nutrients present in the water column. To ensure that the other live plants get enough nutrients, use liquid fertilizers.
Water wisteria is a highly recognized plant species due to its relatively low maintenance and high adaptability qualities. Like other plants, water wisteria brings plenty of benefits to your planted tank.
You can always count on it for cleaning aquarium water, as well as providing your fish with a strong shelter and making your aquarium aesthetic to look at.
Water wisteria features dark green leaves that add a unique accent to aquariums. And just like other fast-growing plant species, it also grows rapidly and makes algae starve to death even before you notice it.
Coming back to its appearance, the dark green leaves form tight protrusions along the length. These leaves take on various forms, mainly influenced by the environment.
The leaves are large, while the roots are thin and white. The roots are usually buried underneath the substrate, making them a strong source of support for the plant to stay in place.
Depending on genetics and how you plant them, the leaves can slightly alter their shape. Since water wisteria is known for growing quickly, it’s always better to perform regular pruning unless you want it to cover your entire aquarium with its dark and heavy leaves.
Although it is pretty hardy, sudden environmental changes can highly influence the overall stability of the plant. You have to learn about how to avoid going through the melting phase before purchasing it.
Also, water wisteria does best when kept in its ideal water temperature range which is above 68 and below 86 degrees Fahrenheit.
Not all fast-growing plant species have to be large. Some can be small and still save you time and absorb nutrients from the water to kill excess algae.
Duckweed is one of those few plants on earth that grows to a very small size. But don’t let its diminutive size stops you from buying it.
The plant has wonderful qualities. Duckweed is a very hardy plant that can easily withstand shifting water parameters and even a range of tank setups. Another irresistible feature is its quality of devouring ammonia and nitrates in the tank, which can help with keeping the water pure.
Despite the small size that makes it almost impossible to see, Duckweed grows through budding. When it flowers, you can see small green-colored blooms.
Duckweed floats above the water’s surface and helps you protect underwater creatures. Not only that, it can grow on top of ponds regardless of the cold temperature of winter. To improve its short lifespan, make sure you get plenty of light so it can thrive.
Ludwigia Repens is not a rare plant in the aquarium hobby. In fact, many beginners and experts use this plant on a very large scale because of how versatile, easy to grow, and beautiful it is.
The beautiful color combination of vibrant red and deep green adds to the beauty and uniqueness of the plant. Make sure you expose it to bright lighting to get that mesmerizing red and green shades.
Ludwigia Repens can tolerate a wide range of water fluctuations, given you understand other contributing factors to their well-being. Generally, the plant does best in warm water temperatures, ranging from 75 F° to 79 F°. And apart from growing underwater, Ludwigia Repens can grow out of the water, making it an amphibious plant.
Like other fast-growing aquarium plant species, Ludwigia Repens also grows pretty fast and consumes nutrients from the water column, making avoiding algae growth easy.
Some of the most common advantages this plant brings to your aquarium are enhancing water conditions, helping the anxious fish stay away from aggressive fish species using the plant, and adding to the beauty of your tank with its red-pigmented olive green leaves.
The plant will grow out of the aquarium if the water column is not deep. Even though the roots are already strong, you have to get them a nutrient rich substrate for optimal growth.
Author's Note: Ludwigia Repens is extremely sensitive to environmental transitions. Once the plant gets used to a particular temperature including pH levels, avoid disturbing the water parameters as much as possible.
For those aquarists who want to give a classic look to their aquariums, Vallisneria is for you! It is one of the most popular and earliest plants used in home aquariums. It’s easy to grow and adds up to the beauty of your aquarium’s background.
The growth rate of Vallisneria is somewhat faster than those discussed above. This can make it hard for you to keep it in a small aquarium.
And even if you have a large one, you need to make frequent trimmings to control the growth. You can trim the leaves to the length you like so that the plant doesn’t cover the entire top of the tank.
Being a very undemanding plant and one that grows swiftly, Vallisneria allows you to enjoy your time without stressing over how to avoid algae from intruding on your tank.
The plant looks like grass. When you observe their light green leaves, you see spines visible on them. The leaves can be highly variable in shape. Some are straight, while others can go twisted or spiraled.
Before sending out roots, the plant throws runners to the top of the substrate. Once they grow out of the water, they develop flowering and production of seeds.
Vallisneria doesn’t do well in soft waters. You have to keep acidic levels between 6.5 to 8.0 and water temperature above 68 F° and below 82 F°.
Pearlweed is another great option for those aquarists who don’t want to spend days and nights waiting for their plant to grow.
This plant is an extremely versatile, simple, and adaptable carpeting plant. It features a bright green-colored stem that is usually delicate. Depending on how you want to use it, you can use this plant to decorate your foreground, mid-ground, and background.
The plant grows small leaves that are also green in coloration. Contrary to the delicate stems, the leaves grow pretty thick, forming beautiful vegetation.
Since the plant has good adaptability, you can keep it under low lighting as well as intense lighting conditions.
The only difference between these two conditions is that low lighting will encourage thin stems with upward growth and longer gaps between the leaf nodes. While under intense lighting, Pearlweed will grow dense mats and dark green leaves.
You can give it CO2 for a better growth rate. And as far as water parameters go, keep the temperature under 66 F° – 82 F° and acidity level 6.5 to 7.5.
Pearlweed is a water column feeder because of its weak roots. The plant will get nutrients through the leaves most of the time. So, you have to dose them a liquid fertilizer instead of root tabs.
As a hardy plant, Bacopa Caroliniana is a considerably easier species for beginners to try out.
Even though the growth rate of this plant is slow compared to other aquatic plants, but this is a great plant for those who want to oxygenate water for their fish and provide them a healthy environment. Since the plant doesn’t grow that fast, you can inject CO2 to improve the growth rate.
Bacopa Caroliniana can tolerate different water parameters as well as minor environmental changes. This makes it a perfect choice for those aquarists who want a hassle-free experience.
When it comes to offering your tank a beautiful and pleasing look, this plant is no less. The surface of the leaves look glossy green while the lower surface appears pubescent.
Flowers can be either deep blue or light blue. Depending on the lighting conditions, the shoots take on bronze or copper colors which can sometimes appear pink.
To enhance their chances of getting a richer shade of classic green and red, put the plant under strong lighting.
Apart from this, you can grow it in soil, and sand. It can while floating on the surface as well. This can help you provide your fish with appropriate shade.
9. Giant Ambulia
Scientific Name: Limnophila sessiliflora
Skill Level: Moderate
Lighting: High
Size: 16 inches
Tank placement: Background
Growth Rate: High
CO2 Requirement: Recommended
Some people consider Ambulia (video from Tropica Aquarium Plants) as one of the finest plants for maintaining the beauty standards of aquariums. And while they are absolutely right, there are other advantages to bringing them home.
The plant is laced with intense shades of green. If you take care of what the plant prefers, you will paint the leaves emerald.
The plant has another feature that is loved by almost every aquarist. It is the topmost area of the stem. The stem features a set of leaves that never stops growing.
The stem is divided into multiple internodes that sit one centimeter apart. The leaves can be seen emerging from each one. The leaves are designed in a way that resembles a palm tree. This adds up their ornamental value even more.
You don’t have to worry about cultivation and maintenance because this plant will be one of the easiest plant species to care for.
Ambulia has a good growth rate that you can increase with CO2 injections. This will discourage the presence of algae as well. Keep the water temperature around 60 F° to 82 F°.
10. Amazon Frogbit
Scientific Name: Limnobium laevigatum
Skill Level: Easy
Lighting: High
Size: 3 to 20 inches
Tank placement: Surface
Growth Rate: High
CO2 Requirement: No
Capable of withstanding various water conditions as well as providing a smooth planting experience to beginners, Amazon Frogbit is one of the most commonly used plants in the aquarium world.
The plant is famous for different qualities, such as its ornamental nature, versatility, adaptability, and simplicity.
The structure looks round, and the plant consists of bright green leaves that have a smooth texture. Upon hitting maturity, they get laced with white color. You don’t have to wait for the plant to get mature to cover the top of the tank with its leaves. Amazon Frogbits can do it while still being young.
As for roots, the roots are long with neat hairs. The flowers, however, look very tiny but extremely appealing to the eyes.
The growth rate is high, so don’t need to use CO2 injections. As far as size is concerned, it can go anywhere between 3 to 20 inches, depending on how well you take care of them. If you keep water parameters consistent, the plant will not fall prey to anything. Keep the water temperature above 60 and below 80 degrees Fahrenheit and pH level between 6.0 to 7.5.
Pro Tip: Amazon Frogbits are prone to rot if the surface is wet. Make sure you keep the surface dry at all times.
Tank Setup For The Fastest Growing
Fast-growing plants don’t take too much time to grow. If you understand and take care of their basic needs, they can thrive and make your aquarium environment beautiful and healthy for the inhabitants.
But there are certain things you should never ignore. For most species discussed above, lighting acts as a contributing factor to their maintenance. Aside from this, most plants will take nutrients from the water so you don’t have to worry about a thing when it comes to algae.
Make sure you use water fertilizers to keep things stable. Let’s have a look at how to successfully run an aquarium that has fast-growing plants.
Lighting
Most aquatic plants that grow fast need high lighting. You can consider planted tank LEDs. Using T5 fluorescent bulbs can be another great option. Current USA’s Serene RGB Pro is a great all-around LED light that works for virtually all plants.
Filtration is as important as lighting for these plants. Even though they can get nutrients from the water and improve your aquarium’s water conditions, you still need to get a good quality filter.
You have to be careful with the currents since some plants still need water to thrive, while others can tolerate subtle currents.
Caring for these plants is pretty straightforward. Being a novice might hold you back but with proper guidance, you can ensure that the plants are doing fine.
Feeding
Most fast-growing plants are aggressive when it comes to taking nutrients from the water. They can also fulfill their needs through fish waste and leftovers of food.
In case you are just setting up the tank, get liquid fertilizers as soon as possible so the plants don’t have to go through anything rough because of the absence of nutrients in the water.
Some plants need CO2 to grow faster, while others don’t. With some plants, using CO2 will trigger their already high growth rate even further, which can be seriously challenging for an aquarist.
Plants that grow out of the water don’t need Carbon Dioxide injection. You can also use Carbon Dioxide for Giant Ambulia, Pearl Weed, and Duckweed.
Propagation
Most plants are easy to propagate. Some plants produce seeds, while others can be grown by division. Some plants will grow on their own once you separate the plantlets produced by the mother plant.
Tank Maintenance
It doesn’t matter whether you run a small fish tank or one with lots of fish and plants or your own species of floating plants or submerged ones. Tank maintenance is extremely essential and beneficial.
Most species that grow fast use all the nutrients they can get. This helps with keeping algae at bay. Moreover, you don’t have to worry about nitrates as the plants will use them. But I highly recommend making partial water changes and using a liquid test kit to maintain proper water parameters.
You should also consider cleaning the substrate and the tank walls.
Tank Mates
Choosing the right tank mates is always one of the most important things to consider before turning your traditional tank into a heavily planted tank.
Some animals can get along with different plants, while other aquarium plants are prone to get nipped. Other than that, you can add animals to a heavily planted tank to reduce the chances of algae attacking your tank.
One of the fastest-growing plants that you can get is Hornwort. The stem plant does wonders to your aquarium and has been a part of home aquariums for a long time. Plants like Ludwigia Repens, Vallisneria, Giant Ambulia, and Amazon Frogbit are some other great choices.
Do They Grow Faster In Warm Water?
Aquarium plants have a higher chance of growing faster in warm water temperatures as compared to cold water. Aquarium plants have a higher chance of growing faster in warm water temperatures as compared to cold water.
Do Tank Stem Plants Need Substrate?
Some plants absorb nutrients through their leaves, and they can survive without any substrate. However, plants that take nutrients through their roots need soil to thrive.
You can plant these versatile plants in any substrate. It can be soil, gravel or sand. Just make sure you know what plants are best for growing in soil and what plants can go without any substrate.
Fast-Growing Plants at a Glance
Plant
Growth Rate
Light
CO2
Difficulty
Hornwort
Very Fast
Low–High
Not required
Easy
Elodea (Anacharis)
Very Fast
Low–Moderate
Not required
Easy
Water Wisteria
Fast
Moderate
Not required
Easy
Duckweed
Extremely Fast
Moderate
Not required
Easy
Vallisneria
Fast
Moderate
Not required
Easy
Ludwigia Repens
Moderate–Fast
High
Recommended
Moderate
Amazon Frogbit
Fast
Moderate
Not required
Easy
Pearl Weed
Fast
High
Recommended
Moderate
Avoid If:
You have a low-tech tank and want foreground carpeting: fast growers like pearl weed need high light and CO2 to carpet properly
You want to add duckweed to an open-top tank with surface agitation: it will clog the filter intake and block light to everything below
You want low-maintenance aquascaping: fast growers need frequent trimming or they take over the tank
Your tank is under 10 gallons and you choose hornwort: it gets large fast and overwhelms nano setups
Closing Thoughts
If you’re looking for some new plants to grow in your aquarium, why not try one of these fast-growing varieties? They’re easy to care for and will add a splash of color to your tank in no time. Plus, they’ll give you the satisfaction of seeing results quickly. So what are you waiting for? Give them a try and let us know how it goes in the comments below.
Expert Take | Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot
After 25 years in this hobby, people ask me all the time what the easiest fish to keep are. Usually right after they have had a rough start with something that was not actually beginner-friendly. My honest answer is that no fish is truly zero maintenance. They all need water changes, feeding, and a cycled tank. But some species are dramatically more forgiving of beginner mistakes than others, and that is what this list is really about. These are the fish I would confidently put in the hands of someone brand new to the hobby.
No fish is zero maintenance. The tank still needs to be cycled. Water changes still happen. But some fish are genuinely forgiving of the inevitable beginner mistakes, delayed water changes, and the occasional missed feeding. Those are the fish on this list.
“Low maintenance” means forgiving. It does not mean automatic.
Key Takeaways
All fish require a cycled tank before adding them; skipping this step is the most common reason beginner tanks fail
Tank cycling typically takes 4-6 weeks; you cannot shortcut it for any fish on this list
Smaller tanks require more frequent maintenance than larger tanks; a 10-gallon (38 L) with 5 fish needs more attention than a 29-gallon (110 L) with the same fish
Goldfish, discus, and saltwater fish are not low-maintenance and do not belong on any beginner list regardless of how they are marketed
The best low-maintenance setup is a 20-gallon (76 L) or larger with a group of appropriately matched schooling fish, a cleanup crew, and a reliable filter
What Low-Maintenance Actually Means
Low-maintenance fish are forgiving of parameter fluctuations that would stress or kill more demanding species. They accept a range of pH and hardness values, tolerate temperatures that vary a few degrees, and can handle the occasional missed water change without immediately declining.
What they are not: maintenance-free. Every fish in this list still needs:
A fully cycled tank before the first fish goes in
Regular water changes (weekly or biweekly depending on stocking)
Consistent feeding (once or twice daily)
A working filter sized for the tank volume
The difference is margin for error. A zebra danio in a tank that runs slightly warm or slightly acidic will do fine. A German blue ram in the same tank will get sick within a week. That is the distinction that matters for beginner fish selection.
Low-Maintenance Difficulty Tiers
Truly Beginner-Proof
Zebra danios, white cloud minnows, platies, guppies (wild-type), corydoras, cherry barbs. Survive normal beginner fluctuations, eat anything, peaceful, widely available.
Easy with One Caveat Each
Betta (solo tank only, no other bettas), honey gourami (needs surface access), kuhli loach (needs sand substrate and a group), harlequin rasbora (needs a school of 8+), Endler’s (population management if mixed sex), mollies (needs harder water), black neon tetra (do not add to a new uncycled tank), black skirt tetra (fin nipper risk with long-finned fish).
Not Low-Maintenance Despite Reputation
Fancy goldfish (need cold water, massive tanks as adults, produce enormous waste). Neon tetras (sensitive to new tank syndrome and poor water quality). Anything marketed as “saltwater beginner fish.” Discus. German blue rams. None of these belong on a beginner list.
What Not to Buy
Before the list, a few fish to actively avoid if you want low-maintenance:
Goldfish are not beginner fish in any meaningful sense. Common goldfish need 75 gallons (284 L) or more as adults. Fancy goldfish produce enormous waste, are cold-water fish that do not belong in tropical tanks, and require significant filtration. They are mismarketed constantly as beginner fish.
Discus need pristine water quality, precise temperature (82-86°F/28-30°C), and frequent large water changes. Not a beginner fish.
Saltwater fish of any kind require a fully cycled saltwater system, live rock, a protein skimmer, and significantly more equipment, expense, and knowledge than any freshwater setup. There are no saltwater beginner fish in the same category as freshwater beginner fish.
Common Beginner Mistakes That Kill Even Easy Fish
Adding fish to an uncycled tank; ammonia spikes kill even the hardiest species
Overstocking a small tank; a 10-gallon (38 L) is not a blank check for stocking density
Skipping a lid; bettas, danios, and swordtails all jump
Keeping a betta with its own reflection or another betta; stress from fighting shortens their lives significantly
Keeping neon tetras in a brand-new tank; they are more sensitive than most sources admit and need a mature, stable system
Temperament: Aggressive toward other bettas and some long-finned fish
pH: 6.5-8.0
Temperature: 75-80°F (24-27°C)
A betta is genuinely one of the best low-maintenance fish you can keep. One male in a 5 to 10-gallon (19-38 L) planted tank with a small heater and filter, weekly water changes, and daily feeding. That is it. They recognize their owners, they have distinct personalities, and they are beautiful fish. The low-maintenance part comes with one hard rule: no other bettas. Not even females in most cases. One betta per tank, period. Everything else follows from that.
What bettas do not tolerate well: tiny bowls without filtration, temperatures below 74°F (23°C), and tanks with tiger barbs or other fin-nippers. A betta in a proper setup is a phenomenal first fish. A betta in a bowl is a fish struggling to survive.
Guppies are the most beginner-friendly fish in the hobby for a reason. They survive parameter swings that would kill most other fish, accept essentially any food, and add real color and movement to a planted tank. An all-male guppy tank in a 10 to 20-gallon (38-76 L) setup with a simple filter is a setup almost any beginner can maintain successfully. Mix males and females and you are breeding; plan for that from day one.
3. Zebra Danio
Scientific Name: Danio rerio
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1.5-2 inches (4-5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (57 L)
Temperament: Peaceful
pH: 6.0-8.0
Temperature: 64-74°F (18-23°C)
School Size: 8+
Zebra danios are possibly the most genuinely hardy fish available in the hobby. They were actually used as research fish specifically because of their tolerance for a wide range of conditions. They work in tanks without heaters at room temperature. They survive new tank syndrome better than most species. They school actively, they are fast, and a school of 8 or more in a properly sized tank is genuinely entertaining to watch. A lid is mandatory; they jump.
4. Platy
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 2 inches (5 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
Temperament: Peaceful
pH: 7.0-8.5
Temperature: 70-80°F (21-27°C)
Platies are livebearers, which means they breed without prompting. The upside is that they are extremely hardy and available in an impressive range of color forms. The downside is population management. An all-female platy tank is a simple solution: peaceful, colorful, and no fry to deal with. Wagtail, tuxedo, sunset, and salt-and-pepper varieties give plenty of visual variety without needing multiple species.
5. White Cloud Mountain Minnow
Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1.5 inches (4 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons (38 L)
Temperament: Peaceful
pH: 6.5-7.5
Temperature: 64-72°F (18-22°C)
School Size: 6+
White clouds are the cold-water alternative to tropical schooling fish. They live in mountain streams in China and do fine at room temperature (65-72°F/18-22°C) without a heater. This makes them genuinely unique on this list. They are peaceful, beautiful (the iridescent stripe is more striking than photos suggest in person), and work in small planted tanks without any specialized equipment. For a beginner who does not want to deal with heating equipment or is in a room that runs cool, white clouds are the answer.
Neon tetras are some of the best-looking fish in the hobby, but there is a caveat that does not appear in most beginner guides. They are noticeably more sensitive than danios or platies, particularly to new tank syndrome. Do not add neon tetras to a tank that has been running for less than 6 to 8 weeks. In a stable, mature, planted tank with good water quality, they are easy and long-lived. In a new or unstable tank, they decline fast. If you want something closer to “beginner-proof” in the tetra category, see the black neon tetra below.
The cherry barb is the barb species for people who have been scared off barbs by tiger barbs. Cherry barbs are peaceful, do not nip fins, and the males develop a beautiful deep red color when in breeding condition. Keep them in a school of 6 or more. Feed once daily, test water weekly, change water biweekly, and you have a tank that runs itself.
Kuhli loaches are the bottom crew for a community tank. They are nocturnal, which means they are often invisible during the day (hiding under décor or in plant roots) and active at night after the lights go out. They need a sandy substrate, not gravel; gravel cuts their undersides. Keep at least 3, ideally 5 or 6. Alone, they stay hidden constantly. In a group, they become more active and visible. Drop a sinking pellet or wafer in each evening and they do the rest.
Endler’s are guppy-sized fish with arguably better coloration in males than standard fancy guppies, and without the inbreeding issues that reduce fancy guppy hardiness. They are livebearers and will breed, but the batch sizes are smaller (5-25 fry versus up to 100 for guppies). All-male Endler’s tanks work extremely well. Keep them separate from guppies if you want to preserve the strain.
The harlequin rasbora’s bold black triangle marking against a copper-red body is instantly recognizable and stays striking even in a mixed community. They school tightly when comfortable, which is one of the more visually satisfying things a smaller freshwater fish can do. Keep a school of 8 or more for the best schooling behavior. They work well with honey gouramis, corydoras, and other peaceful community species.
11. Cory Catfish
Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 1-4 inches (2.5-10 cm) depending on species
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
Temperament: Peaceful
pH: 7.0-8.0
Temperature: 74-80°F (23-27°C)
School Size: 5+
Corydoras are the most beginner-friendly bottom-dwelling fish in the hobby. They are peaceful with literally everything, they school along the bottom in tight groups, they clean up leftover food, and they come in enough species that you can build a whole collection. The mandatory requirement is sand or very fine gravel substrate; coarse gravel damages their barbels (the whiskers they use to find food). A group of 5 or more of the same species of corydoras in a planted tank is one of the most reliably successful beginner setups you can build.
If you want neon tetra aesthetics with more resilience, the black neon tetra is the answer. It is noticeably hardier than the standard neon tetra and tolerates a wider range of water conditions. The black and yellow-white horizontal stripe is genuinely attractive in a planted tank. These fish live up to 5 years with good care and are compatible with almost any peaceful community species.
13. Molly
Scientific Name: Poecilia latipinna / P. sphenops
Care Level: Easy (with hard water)
Adult Size: 4-6 inches (10-15 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons (114 L)
Temperament: Peaceful
pH: 7.0-8.0
Temperature: 68-82°F (20-28°C)
Mollies are livebearers and come in a great range of colors including black, white, dalmatian, gold, and lyretail varieties. The caveat is water quality. Mollies do best in hard, alkaline water (pH 7.5-8.0) and are more disease-prone in soft, acidic setups than their “easy” reputation suggests. If your tap water is naturally hard and alkaline, mollies are genuinely easy. If it is soft and acidic, choose platies or guppies instead.
14. Black Skirt Tetra
Scientific Name: Gymnocorymbus ternetzi
Care Level: Easy
Adult Size: 2.4 inches (6 cm)
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons (76 L)
Temperament: Peaceful (mild fin-nipping possible)
pH: 6.0-7.0
Temperature: 68-78°F (20-26°C)
School Size: 6+
Black skirt tetras are distinctive fish with a cool body shape and bold markings. Hardy and active, they work well in community tanks of appropriately-sized fish. One caveat: they can be mild fin-nippers, particularly toward very long-finned fish like fancy guppies or male bettas. Keep them with fish that are similarly active and not long-finned and you will not have a problem. In a school of 6 or more they school well and the fin-nipping tendency is reduced.
The honey gourami is the right gourami for a beginner. It is significantly hardier than the standard dwarf gourami (which carries the DGIV disease risk at the retail level) and equally peaceful with all appropriate community fish. One male honey gourami in a 15-gallon (57 L) planted community tank is a nearly perfect beginner setup. The requirement to remember: always leave open surface access, as gouramis breathe atmospheric air with their labyrinth organ. Float too many plants covering the surface and the fish will suffocate.
Care Essentials for Any Low-Maintenance Setup
Tank Setup
Choose a tank at least one size up from the minimum listed for your fish. Larger water volume is more forgiving on water quality. A 20-gallon (76 L) with a school of cherry barbs and a group of corydoras is significantly easier to maintain than a 10-gallon (38 L) with the same fish.
Equipment needed: a filter rated for at least twice the tank volume, a heater for tropical species (white clouds are the exception), appropriate substrate (sand is better for bottom-dwellers), and a lid. Most beginner fish are not jumpers by nature, but enough of them are that a lid is worth having.
Feeding
Feed once or twice daily in amounts the fish finish within 2 to 3 minutes. Uneaten food decomposes and raises ammonia. The most common mistake beginners make is overfeeding. More food does not mean healthier fish; it means worse water quality.
A quality flake or micro-pellet food handles the daily feeding for all fish on this list. Supplement with frozen bloodworms or brine shrimp a few times weekly for better coloration and condition. An automatic fish feeder handles the daily task if travel is a concern.
Three things keep a tank healthy over the long term: a working biological filter, regular water changes, and not overfeeding. The biological filter converts ammonia to nitrite to nitrate through bacterial colonies in the filter media. Never replace all the filter media at once; you will wipe out your beneficial bacteria and restart the nitrogen cycle.
Water changes of 20 to 25 percent weekly or biweekly keep nitrates manageable. Test water before and after until you establish a pattern, then check monthly once you have a reliable routine. A gravel vacuum or python cleaning system removes settled waste with the water.
The zebra danio is the most genuinely hardy beginner fish in the hobby. It tolerates the widest range of water conditions, survives temperature swings that would stress other species, and thrives with basic feeding and maintenance. For a solo fish in a smaller tank, a betta in a properly sized and filtered setup is the easiest option.
Can low-maintenance fish survive without a filter?
No. All fish need filtration. A filter supports the nitrogen cycle that converts toxic ammonia from fish waste into less harmful nitrate. Without it, ammonia builds up and kills even the hardiest fish. The filter is the most important piece of equipment in any tank, and there is no substitute.
Are goldfish low-maintenance?
No. Goldfish are cold-water fish that produce far more waste than tropical species of equivalent size. Fancy goldfish varieties need significant filtration and tank space (at least 20-30 gallons/76-114 L for the first fish, more for each additional fish). Common goldfish need pond-sized environments as adults. They are marketed as beginner fish but they are not low-maintenance by any practical definition.
How long can low-maintenance fish go without feeding?
Most of the fish on this list can go 3 to 5 days without feeding without issue. A week or longer is possible for adult fish in well-established tanks with some algae and organic matter available. For planned absences of more than a few days, an automatic feeder is a better solution than relying on the fish to go without.
How often do low-maintenance tanks need water changes?
Weekly water changes of 20-25 percent are the standard recommendation. Lightly stocked larger tanks can sometimes stretch to biweekly. Heavily stocked smaller tanks may need more frequent changes. Test nitrates: if they are above 20-40 ppm (mg/L), change water more frequently.
Closing Thoughts
The best low-maintenance fish tank is a properly sized, properly cycled tank with the right fish for the setup. Get those three things right and the day-to-day work genuinely is minimal. Get them wrong and no amount of “easy” fish will save you from constant problems.
Start with a tank 20 gallons (76 L) or larger. Cycle it before you add fish. Choose species from this list that match your tap water and your interest level. Then build the maintenance routine and stick to it. That is the whole formula.
Mark’s Pick
The setup I would put a complete beginner in: a 29-gallon (110 L) planted tank with a school of 10 zebra danios, a school of 8 harlequin rasboras, 6 corydoras, and one honey gourami. Sand substrate, a decent hang-on-back filter, a heater set to 76°F (24°C). Weekly 25 percent water changes. That tank almost runs itself, it looks great, and every fish in it is genuinely forgiving. I have seen that exact setup run for years without significant problems.
Where to Buy Low-Maintenance Fish
Most of the fish on this list are available at local fish stores. For better health guarantees, wider variety in stock, and access to species that chain stores do not carry, online specialty retailers are worth considering.
Flip Aquatics – Use promo code ASDFLIPPROMO for a discount. Quality freshwater fish, reliable shipping, great selection of nano fish and schooling species
Dan’s Fish – Healthy fish, good selection across freshwater species including tetras, livebearers, and corydoras
Upfront honest answer: no fish eats poop in a way that actually removes it from your tank. This is one of the most persistent myths in the hobby. the idea that cories, plecos, or snails will “clean up” your tank and reduce your need for water changes. They won’t. Those species scavenge leftover food and biofilm, which is genuinely useful, but fish waste still needs to be processed through filtration and removed through water changes. There’s no substitute for that.
That said, understanding which fish naturally interact with substrate waste and detritus is worth knowing. both for realistic expectations and for building a tank that stays cleaner longer. Here’s what actually happens when fish “eat” waste and what that means for your setup.
Key Takeaways
No freshwater fish actually eats poop
Freshwater plants are great for breaking down fish poop
Good filtration will help break down fish poop
Siphoning out large poop is recommended to keep toxic ammonia and nitrites down
Introduction To Poop-Eating Fish
Freshwater aquariums are dirty. There are dozens, if not hundreds, of different organisms and microbes that work together to make these contained ecosystems operate. Believe it or not, fish poop is essential for making these systems run efficiently and safely.
But what happens if you have too much fish poop entering the system? This can be due to overstocking, poor maintenance, inadequate filtration, or overfeeding.
Overloading The Nitrogen Cycle
As with anything, too much fish poop can overload the system with nutrients. When first starting a fish tank, ammonia must be added to the aquarium to initiate the nitrogen cycle. Over time, different microorganisms convert this ammonia into nitrite and, eventually, nitrate. This population of beneficial bacteria directly correlates to the amount of fish waste available and the subsequent levels of ammonia produced in the aquarium.
Simply put, more fish waste equals more ammonia and bacteria.
However, beneficial bacteria need to reproduce in order to compensate for higher ammonia levels, which takes time. A sudden or large raise in the level of ammonia in the system can leave toxic chemicals in the water column. This directly exposes fish, invertebrates, and live plants to potential ammonia poisoning, which can quickly become lethal.
The only way to prevent ammonia from overwhelming the nitrogen cycle is by removing fish poop and other wastes in the aquarium before they have the chance to break down.
Are There Any Fish That Eats Poop?
The easiest way to remove fish poop from the aquarium would be to have another fish that does the work for you.
Sadly, there is no aquarium fish that will eat the poop of another fish. And do not let anyone tell you differently! Less-informed pet store associates are very likely to try to sell you bottom feeders with the ability to clean up after other fish, but such a species does not exist.
Many freshwater fish and invertebrate species are sold as members of the clean up crew. While it is easy to assume that a ‘clean up’ crew member, especially a bottom dweller, will clean up fish poop given its assigned name, this isn’t true. Instead, these fish eat algae and other organic matter that makes its way into our systems, like decayed plant debris and leftover food. There is no benefit to a food source that has already been processed by another animal.
Fish that are commonly advertised as clean up crew members include:
From this list, Otocinclus eat algae. Corydoras, plecos, and loaches eat some detritus and natural algae but prefer fresh algae wafers and meaty foods instead. Freshwater sharks, like the rainbow shark (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), might look like it eats fish waste and detritus off the substrate, but they prefer a fresh source of food instead.
Just because a fish has a flat stomach and barbels does not mean that it is a good member of the clean up crew!
Do Snails Eat Fish Poop?
Surely there is a species of snail that eats fish poop, right? No, freshwater snails do not eat fish poop either. Like fish, snails enjoy eating algae and other decaying organics. Some snails even like to eat live aquarium plants, though most are considered safe to keep in the planted aquarium.
Unfortunately, shrimp do not eat fish poop either. On top of eating algae and organic waste, some shrimp might even pick and eat parasites off of fish, but they will not eat poop.
At times, it might look like your fish or invertebrates are eating poop. In most cases, this is a case of mistaking fish poop for a piece of food and they’ll usually spit it back out immediately. But sometimes, fish might eat poop if other food isn’t available. This is a serious case of malnourishment and should be addressed immediately.
Why Don’t They Eat Poop?
If fish poop is abundant, then why haven’t aquarium fish evolved to eat it? At the very least, snails and other members of the clean-up crew should have learned to eat poop over the years, right?
There is little to no benefit to eating poop. Poop is the remaining waste product of food, meaning that most of the nutritional value has been removed. Not only that, but it probably also doesn’t taste the greatest! If you’ve ever watched your fish eat, you may have seen it take a piece of food and then spit it back out. This is the fish’s way of tasting the food before it ingests it; and yes, fish definitely have preferences!
In the wild, it can also be dangerous to ingest poop. Many fish and invertebrates carry internal parasites which are sometimes excreted through feces. If another animal ingests this poop, then it will also be infected.
All in all, fish have evolved to avoid eating poop due to biological safety and appetite preferences.
What Breaks It Down?
If other animals aren’t eating the poop, then where is it going?
As with anything that is organic, fish poop will naturally break down over time until it’s completely incorporated back into the ecosystem. Bacteria and other microbes will help eat fish poop and break down proteins that then get released as ammonia. The physical matter slowly falls apart and disintegrates over time, getting incorporated into the substrate and filter media.
Once in the form of ammonia or ammonium, live plants and bacteria can use these nutrients to perform photosynthesis and create food.
How To Keep Your Aquarium Clean
An accumulation of fish poop can lead to water quality issues and give your tank a dirty appearance. Because there aren’t any fish or invertebrate species that eat fish waste, it’s up to the hobbyist to manually remove the excess fish poop.
There are a few ways to make sure that your aquarium stays clean without having to rely on another fish to eat poop for you. This includes regular aquarium maintenance, controlling water flow, and incorporating live plants into your freshwater fish tank.
Regular Aquarium Maintenance
Fish are some of the easiest pets to keep, but they do require some care and attention from time to time. Once your aquarium has been set up and allowed to complete the nitrogen cycle, weekly or monthly maintenance is required to keep fish happy and healthy. How often you need to perform maintenance depends on the amount of bioload in the aquarium and how nutrients are being exported or processed.
For the most part, beneficial bacteria are efficient at their job of converting ammonia into nitrite and nitrate. However, larger particles, like fish poop, need to be manually removed.
One of the best ways to remove fish poop is by using an aquarium vacuum cleaner. This piece of equipment includes a plastic nozzle with long tubing and works through siphon physics. Check out the video below from Lifewithpets showing how to use a gravel vacuum.
Simply start a siphon by placing water into the nuzzle, lifting the nuzzle upwards so that the water can drain through the tubing, and placing the nozzle back into the aquarium before the remaining draining water can empty the tubing. This will create a continuous pull of water from the fish tank into another container (so long as the container is at a lower level than the nozzle). Alternatively, hobbyists can place the nozzle in the aquarium water and suck the end of the tubing until a circuit is created. Obviously, this can lead to some water getting in your mouth and potential ingestion (perform at your own risk)!
A regular vacuuming schedule can keep your tank clean and water parameters in check. It is not necessary to vacuum your substrate during every weekly or biweekly water change and some hobbyists choose to only do so when there are obvious accumulations of fish poop. Limiting substrate cleanings can also be beneficial when dealing with a sand substrate that can easily be kicked up and unintentionally siphoned.
Otherwise, 15-25% weekly or biweekly water changes will keep water parameters where they need to be. Water changes are especially helpful for removing nitrate, which can’t be naturally processed in freshwater aquariums without the help of live plants.
Water Flow
Water flow will not remove fish poop, but can greatly help with its collection of it.
The problem with fish poop is that it sinks to the bottom and gets stuck under rocks and other decorations. Once there, it can’t be easily reached with a gravel vacuum and it’s left to rot and contaminate the water. Adding additional water flow and circulation at all levels of the aquarium can help fish poop and other uneaten food from accumulating.
Additional water flow can be added through increased or greater filtration, air stones, or powerheads.
An aquarium can never have too much filtration, but it can have too much or too little water flow. For most setups, water flow should be moderate throughout both the length and height of the aquarium. There should be enough flow to keep objects from settling on the substrate and passing nutrients through live plants, but not enough to make swimming difficult for your fish.
Filter returns and powerheads help to create constant and random movement throughout the aquarium; a larger filter or several filters may be needed to create a desired random effect. At the same time, the filter intake may be placed in an area and level for the best waste intake while air stones can be used to bring circulation to dead zones.
Live Plants
One of the most understated ways to keep your aquarium clean and to get rid of fish poop is to keep live plants. Many inexperienced hobbyists think live plants are demanding in regards to lighting and water parameters, but there are many species that can survive even the worst beginner’s mistakes.
Live plants can process ammonium, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Each nutrient facilitates a different physiological process for the plant, leading to growth and propagation. Because of their constant need for nutrients, many hobbyists typically keep their planted tanks at 20 ppm nitrate. Limited nutrients can lead to stunted growth.
While some fish keepers need to dose their aquariums with fertilizers to achieve these levels, others allow their fish to do the work for them. Fish poop is a natural and necessary addition to these systems, though too much can still lead to dangerous conditions.
Live plants are so efficient at processing fish poop and other organic leftovers that some hobbyists use them to help cycle their aquariums. This is often called a ghost cycle as the plants uptake nutrients before they can be observed through water testing. This is quantifiable proof that live plants, in fact, help take nutrients out of the water!
In addition to helping keep the fish tank clean, live plants also process carbon dioxide into oxygen and provide shelter and food for fish and invertebrates.
Final Thoughts
Sadly, there are no fish or invertebrates that eat fish poop. The only way to get rid of fish poop is by regularly cleaning the tank with a gravel vacuum, increasing and optimizing water flow, and adding live plants to help uptake excess nutrients.
While it might look like your fish is trying to eat poop off the substrate, it may be mistaking it for food. In this case, make sure that your fish is receiving adequate food and nutritional value as it may be hungry.
I’ve had mystery snails fake me out more times than I can count. You’ll find them sealed up tight with their operculum, completely motionless, and every instinct says something is wrong. but they’re just dormant. After keeping snails in my tanks for years, I’ve learned the difference between a snail that needs time and a snail that’s actually dead, and there are a few reliable tells that remove most of the guesswork.
Snails have a reputation for making you second-guess yourself. Mystery snails especially will seal themselves up with their operculum and go dormant for days. sometimes weeks. and look completely dead the whole time. I’ve been fooled more than once. After 25 years of keeping everything from nerite snails to giant apple snails, I can tell you the smell test is still the most reliable method, as unpleasant as that sounds. Here are six ways to tell if your snail has actually died.
Key Takeaways
The smell is the most obvious way to tell if a aquarium snail is dead in your aquarium
When snails die, they release a large amount of ammonia. Death of a large snail or numerous snails may require a water change
Old age is the most common reason for a snail’s death in an aquarium
How To Tell If A Snail Is Dead – 6 Ways To Tell
Here are 6 obvious signs to see if your snail is dead or just sleeping. You can check out YouTube video below. We also go into further detail in our blog post. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe as we post new videos every week.
1. Smell Test
The smell test gives the most authentic results. If you suspect that your snail is dead, take a sniff and you’ll know.
That’s because dead snails produce a lot of Ammonia and decompose very quickly, leaving behind a pungent smell like rotting food. I also advise testing your tank water because there are high chances of Ammonia spike that require immediate water change after removing the dead snail.
You can also sniff the foot of your snail if the shell doesn’t smell bad. A dead snail’s body, especially the foot will smell equally bad. However, poor water quality can also add to a stinky foot.
If your snail is alive but has smelly feet, consider doing partial water changes.
2. Examine The Body
Look out the snail’s shell and body closely. When a snail dies, its body shrinks into the shell and then slowly decomposes. Look at the opening of the shell, if you cannot spot the body inside, it is most likely a dead snail. Also, when you hold the snail and it feels very light with nothing inside, the snail has died.
If the body shrinks, the snail produces a lot of ammonia shortly. Thus, immediate partial water changes and filtration is required to keep things at bay.
3. Check The Trap Door
This option is well suited for larger snail varieties such as Mystery snails or Apple snails. Carefully tug at the trap door of your snail. If it’s alive, you will feel resistance. But if it opens easily, the snail is dead.
4. Transport Your Pet To A New Environment
Another effective method to check if a snail is dead is to move it to a new environment. You can transport your snail to a smaller or larger aquarium or container with different water parameters.
The change in water parameters and overall environment would entice curiosity in your snail and it will most likely wake up to explore its new environment.
5. Check If They React
Snails, almost like all living things, react to certain external stimuli. And so, you can tap the snail shell carefully to see if it reacts. Or you can also try tickling its belly to check if it retracts. If it does, there’s nothing to worry. But if it remains motionless, your snail is dead.
6. Light Test
You can try holding the snail in your hands and exposing it against the flashlight or light bulb. If you see no matter inside or if the body is slightly shrunken, the snail is most likely dead.
How Long Can They Go Without Moving?
In the wild, snails hibernate for around three years or longer without moving. However, aquarium snails sleep or remain inactive for around two weeks. The inactivity may be a result of a number of factors.
Most snails don’t move for approx three to four days as a result of transportation. Freshly introduced Nerite snails don’t move when added to a new ecosystem.
Why Do They Die?
There are many reasons for a snail to be dead in your aquarium.
Old age is one of the most common causes.
Snails are extremely sensitive to high levels of toxins in the water, so if you neglect regular water changes in your tank and the water’s ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels rise, your snails and some of your fish could die.
Algae and debris are not sufficient for the survival of snails. Your snails risk starvation if not fed properly.
Many fish treatments contain copper, which can be fatal to plants and snails. Fish that require treatment should be put into a quarantine tank rather than your display tank since those medications include copper.
Warm water is required by tropical snails. Your snails will die if the water in your aquarium is too cold. below 50 degrees Fahrenheit.
What To Do With Deceased Ones?
The soft component of a dead snail is typically damaged or melted away when it decomposes. The snail in hibernation has a membrane within and its shell will be extremely fragile. If the snail has been dead for a while, all you find are empty shells.
You must remove any dead snails from the tank or the vicinity right away, whether they are in the water or on land, especially if there are other snails or marine animals nearby (in the case of an aquarium).
To avoid contaminating the water or sand for the other snails or animals, make it a point to completely change the water or sand.
The dead snail body may occasionally be consumed by the fish in your tank before it turns poisonous to them. If not, quickly remove the dead snail before it contaminates the water.
I advise avoiding removing the shells from the water because they don’t deteriorate and add beauty to your aquarium. In addition to being useful as raw materials for numerous goods, snail shells are also quite aesthetically beautiful and can be utilized for clothing and home décor.
How To Distinguish Between A Dead Snail And A Hibernating One?
Nerite and mystery snails frequently go dormant for days at a time in aquariums. By examining its shell, you can tell a hibernating snail from a dead one. The shell of a dead snail is discolored, weightless, and lifeless.
Even while the snail is hibernating, its slime keeps it glued to objects. However, dead snails don’t have clingy slime, thus they float away from any surface more frequently. In any case, don’t be too quick to discard your snail. It needs time to wake up.
Pro tip: A snail in hibernation will stay put, won't emerge from its shell, and will instead stay affixed to a surface. A dead snail, on the other hand, is unable to adhere to any surface and will remain stationary.
Why Do They Float?
Many novice snail keepers often ask “Is my floating snail dead?” Today I’m going to answer this question.
Many aquarium snail species float. including mystery snails that occasionally float (video source). So, Good news! Your snail might not actually be dead. Because they can store air inside their shells, snails have enough buoyancy to float.
Some snail species in nature purposefully float on the water’s surface so that they can be carried along by the current and move more quickly, perhaps in quest of better eating grounds.
In captivity, hunger is a frequent reason why snails float at the water’s surface, often upside down as they attempt to catch dangling food pieces.
Snails cannot thrive on algae alone, contrary to popular belief. To help keep the snails’ shells in good condition, be sure to add vegetables and other high-calcium foods to their diet.
Lift a floating snail carefully out of the water and give the shell a sniff if you’re unsure whether it’s alive or dead. If it doesn’t stink keep your snail floating.
How To Improve The Health Of Your Tank Pet?
Snails need clean, filtered, oxygenated water to stay healthy, just like your fish do.
Therefore, to maintain a clean environment, be sure to properly maintain your aquarium filtration system, perform weekly partial water changes, and completely vacuum the substrate.
Snails can handle water temperatures between 65° and 82° Fahrenheit and prefer a pH level close to 7.0.
Despite their small size, each of your snails needs at least 2.5 liters of water. That makes sure the mollusks won’t go hungry and gives each snail plenty of room to forage.
Leave a six-inch area below the tank lid or cover slide so that the snails can deposit eggs if you wish them to reproduce. Examine the aquarium lid and seal any openings that the snails might use to elude capture.
Aquatic snails may live for a short time without water, but eventually, they will become dehydrated and pass away.
Choose Tank mates Carefully
If you raise an aquarium snail, be selective with your tankmates. Avoid fish including puffers, cichlids, goldfish, and some catfish that feed on snails.
FAQs
How Do I Know If They Have Died?
First of all, if your snail is not moving. You can try doing the following things to see if it’s dead.
1) Sniff the snail’s shell or feet to see if any foul smell is coming. If yes, your snail is dead. If no, it’s alive.
2) Examine the snail’s body properly. If it’s shrunken, your snail is no more. If not, it’s still there.
3) For larger snails, you can tug at the trapdoor to see any reaction or you can even transport your snail to a new fish tank or aquarium with different water parameters to see if it reacts.
4) Check out the snail shell with the help of flashlight to see if there’s any matter inside the shell.
What Do They Look Like When They Pass Away?
A dead snail snail is the one with empty shells. When the snail is found hanging out of their shells or their shells are crushed, they are most likely dead. The dead snail are no longer slimy and have a different color that is darker than the original.
How Do You Know They Are Alive?
1) If the snail does not stink 2) If it reacts on external stimuli 3) Here’s a little test to check if your snail is alive:
Lift your snail out of the water and very carefully bring the back foot toward you, if the snail retracts, it’s alive.
Why Are They Not Moving?
A snail typically won’t move or emerge from its shell because of the low temperature. Nerite snails and mystery snails prefer temperatures of 76 to 84 degrees Fahrenheit. They must hibernate because of the drop in temperature.
However, your snail will die below 23°F. If it’s too cold, put the snail in warm water to help it emerge from its shell and begin moving.
Is My Pet Dead Or Sleeping?
Your snail is probably sleeping, hibernating, or relaxing if it isn’t moving and is still clinging to the aquarium glass or decorations.
Why Did My Nerite Ones Die?
There are four possible reasons for your Nerite snails to die.
Nerite snails are extremely sensitive. As a result, nerite snails will eventually die in the aquarium if even a small amount of copper is present.
A nerite snail has a higher likelihood of dying if there is an excess of Nitrate and Ammonia.
Poor water conditions for your nerite snails
Since they are natural algae eaters, if you completely remove or filter out the algae from your aquarium, they will eventually die.
Final Thoughts
Freshwater snails are very popular in the freshwater fishkeeping niche. And now you know why!
Their fascinating and peaceful appearance is a go-ahead for any aquarists to raise them as pets. Now you know how to tell if a snail is dead or sleeping or hibernating or peacefully floating, things would be much easier for you.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Molly Fish tank mates need to handle hard, alkaline water. That eliminates most soft water species immediately. The number one mistake is mixing them with fish that need the opposite water chemistry. I’ve seen molly communities that thrived for years and some that fell apart fast, the difference was almost always stocking density and water chemistry compatibility, not temperament.
Pick tank mates that thrive in the same water as mollies. Do not force soft water fish into hard water.
Key Takeaways
Choose peaceful, similar-sized fish when choosing tank mates for your molly fish.
Be careful not to overstock your aquarium by adding too many fish. 30 gallons is a good starting size for a great molly fish community tank.
Make sure all the fish you want to keep will be happy in the same conditions and parameters.
Choosing Molly Fish Tank Mates – What You Need To Know
Choosing the best tank mates for molly fish is all about understanding their needs and the other species you want to add to their tank. We’ll be covering some amazing fish species later in this post, but let’s start by going over the thought process for choosing great tank mates.
Temperament
Some fish are more aggressive than others, so it’s important to choose fish with similar levels of aggression.
Molly fish are peaceful but not shy. They can hold their own with fairly boisterous fish but should not be kept with aggressive fish or larger predatory species.
Mollies are livebearers. They will eat their own young, but so will most other tank mates, so it is best to set up a breeding tank if you plan on breeding molly fish (video source).
Mollies are peaceful, but they will often eat shrimp. You could try to keep them together in a heavily planted tank with loads of hiding spaces, however.
Size
There is a general rule in the fish-keeping hobby. If a fish can fit in another fish’s mouth, they are not safe tank mates!
Mollies grow from 4-6 inches long and are certainly capable of eating very small, slow-moving fish. Likewise, large fish can easily snack on your mollies. Choose similar-sized fish, although fast schooling fish like neon tetras are safe.
Competition
Molly fish are hardy and have a very healthy appetite. They are not likely to be outcompeted for food at meal times, but you might need to make sure other shy species are getting their fair share.
Parameters & Tank Setup
It is vitally important to compare the preferred water parameters of different fish before adding them together in a community fish tank. Some fish have very specific needs and just won’t survive in typical tropical fish tanks. In my experience managing fish stores, the molly-and-soft-water mix was one of the most common mismatches we’d see, looked fine for a month, then started falling apart.
Let’s take a look at the recommended water parameters for your molly fish:
pH: 7 – 8.5
Water Temperature: 68 – 82°F
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons (29 gallons+ recommended)
Water Flow: Low-Moderate
Molly fish can live in saltwater, but most other fish aren’t so flexible, so never mix fresh and saltwater fish in the same tank. At the stores I managed, we kept molly display tanks in hard, alkaline water and they were consistently some of the healthiest, most active tanks on the floor.
15 Greatv Aquarium Mates
Having considered all the information above, it’s time to dive in and meet 15 awesome freshwater fish that you can keep with mollies.
Let’s get started!
Expert Take
After 25+ years in the hobby and running aquarium retail, I’ve watched more molly tanks go sideways from bad stocking decisions than from any disease or water quality issue. Mollies are one of the most adaptable livebearers in the hobby, they’ll even tolerate brackish conditions, but they need hard, alkaline water to thrive long-term. That water chemistry requirement is what limits their community options. Most soft-water tropical species will appear healthy in the same tank short-term, but one parameter will always be compromised. The best molly tank is a livebearer community, not a mixed community. I’ve kept mollies with every fish on this list at some point, they’re genuinely one of the more forgiving community fish out there, as long as you get the water chemistry right. — Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot
Quick-Reference Comparison Table
Species
Adult Size
Min Tank
Ease
Compatibility
Dwarf Gourami
2 inches
15 gallons
6/10
High
Guppy
1.75 inches
10 gallons
9/10
High
Platy
2 inches
10 gallons
9/10
High
Neon Tetra
1.25 inches
10 gallons
9/10
High
Cardinal Tetra
2 inches
10 gallons
6/10
High
Endler’s Livebearers
1 inch
10 gallons
9/10
High
Otocinclus Catfish
2 inches
10 gallons
6/10
High
Zebra Danio
2 gallons
20 gallons
9/10
High
Siamese Algae Eater
6 inches
30 gallons
6/10
High
Cory Catfish
1 – 3 inches
10 – 30 gallons depending on fish species
9/10
High
White Cloud Mountain Minnow
1.5 inches
10 gallons
9/10
High
Harlequin Rasboras
1.5 inches
10 gallons
9/10
High
Bristle Nose Pleco
6 inches
30 gallons
9/10
High
Swordtails
4 inches
20 gallons
9/10
High
Tiger Barbs
3 inches
30 gallons
9/10
High
1. Dwarf Gourami
Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.
Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium” class=”wp-image-549383″/>
Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
Origin: Bangladesh, India, Pakistan
Minimum tank size: 15 gallons
Care Level: Intermediate
Swimming Level: All levels
Adult Size: 2 inches
Water Temperature: 72 – 82 °F
pH: 6 – 8
Diet: Omnivore
The dwarf gourami is a peaceful community fish with an interesting look. A pair of these colorful labyrinth fish would make a great addition to your molly fish community tank.
Dwarf gouramis are relatives of the betta fish. They come in some amazing colors, including neon reds, blues, and orange tones. They are fairly shy and will do best in a planted aquarium.
Guppies are ideal tankmates for your molly fish. Guppy fish are basically, the smaller, more colorful cousin of the molly fish. They are very easy to care for and will add loads of life to your tropical fish tank.
Guppy fish are livebearers, just like mollies. They will breed regularly in your aquarium, although the fry are not likely to survive the hungry mouths of their larger tank mates.
3. Platy
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Origin: Mexico & Central America
Minimum tank size: 10 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Swimming Level: All levels
Adult Size: 2 inches
Water Temperature: 64 – 77 °F
pH: 7 – 8.2
Diet: Omnivore
Platy fish are another small livebearer that are peaceful tank mates for mollies. There are many different platy breeds, often with bold shades of yellow, orange, and black. These undemanding fish are a great choice for a mixed livebearer tank.
4. Neon Tetra
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Neon tetras add a burst of bright color and activity to any freshwater tropical aquarium. These small schooling fish are peaceful and very easy to care for.
Neon tetras prefer a lower pH than mollies, so they are not recommended for tanks with a pH over 7. These tiny tetras are strictly schooling fish, so make sure you pick up a group of at least 6 to 10.
5. Cardinal Tetra
Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.
The Cardinal tetra is another brightly colored tetra species from South America. They are a slightly larger and even more colorful relative of the neon tetra. These peaceful fish are a little more challenging to care for, and also come with a higher price tag.
Cardinal Tetras reward the fishkeeper with amazing colors and a peaceful attitude. They make a wonderful tank mate for molly fish.
Hard Rule: Never mix mollies with discus, German blue rams, or other soft-water South American species. The water parameters that keep mollies healthy (pH 7.5–8.5, hard water) are incompatible with the parameters those fish need. One group will always be stressed.
6. Endler’s Livebearers
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Endler’s livebearer fish are very similar to guppies, but do not grow as large and have different markings and fins. Endler’s livebearer fish are very confident, even though they are small fish. These peaceful nano fish make some of the best tank mates for mollies.
7. Otocinclus Catfish
Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.
Otos are nano catfish that do a very important job in the aquarium. They are super-peaceful, and one of the only fish that will not eat your molly fry.
These tiny fish eat algae on the glass and other surfaces in your aquarium to keep the tank looking neat and clean.
8. Zebra Danio
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Scientific Name: Brachydanio rerio
Origin: India
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Swimming Level: All levels
Adult Size: 2 gallons
Water Temperature: 64 – 75 °F
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
Diet: Omnivore
Zebra danios are very fast and hardy tropical freshwater fish. These active community fish are great for adding heaps of movement to any community tank.
Zebra danios are peaceful fish that will thrive on the same food and care as their live-bearing tank mates.
9. Siamese Algae Eater
Ease: 6/10. Works, but requires more careful management.
The Siamese algae eater is another excellent molly fish tank mate. Choose this peaceful fish species for keeping your tank clean and adding activity. Fish keepers also appreciate their ability to devour black beard algae (BBA) – something that very few aquarium fish will eat!
Siamese algae eaters are very fast, active fish that will also enjoy prepared fish food like flakes and pellets. They grow up to 6 inches and they should be kept in school of at least 4 so keep them in a tank of 30 gallons or more.
10. Cory Catfish
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
Origin: South America
Minimum tank size: 10 – 30 gallons depending on fish species
Care Level: Easy
Swimming Level: Bottom
Adult Size: 1 – 3 inches
Water Temperature: 74 – 80 °F
pH: 7 – 8
Diet: Omnivore
The corydoras catfish is a great addition to any peaceful community tank. These small bottom dwellers are super peaceful and will not bother your molly fish at all. Cory cats are very social fish, so you’ll need a school of at least 6 of the same species to see them acting at their confident best.
Cory catfish come in tonnes of different species, ranging from the tiny midwater schoolers like the dwarf cory to the regular-sized species like bronze, Sterba’s, and panda cories.
11. White Cloud Mountain Minnow
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
White cloud mountain minnows are excellent community fish for cooler water conditions. These graceful schooling fish tend to hang out in middle to upper layers of the water column.
White clouds are easy to care for and come in a cool long-finned variety as well as a gold color morph. They will not make good tank mates with tropical fish but they will be happy at 68 – 72 degrees which is the lower limit for your molly fish.
12. Harlequin Rasboras
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Harlequin rasboras are hardy schooling fish that make a great addition to a molly fish community tank. These colorful fish have a rich orange body color with a bold black triangular marking on each side.
They enjoy similar water parameters to molly fish but will do best towards the lower end of the pH and water temperature range. Add a school of 8 or more to enjoy their beautiful schooling behavior.
13. Bristle Nose Pleco
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Are you looking for a unique bottom dweller to add to your molly fish tank? Look no further than the weird and wonderful bristle nose pleco! These small armored catfish spend their time hanging out at the bottom of the tank.
They graze on algae and driftwood, and won’t bother your mollies, although you should only keep one pleco in the tank to avoid any fighting. Just make sure you pick up a bristle nose pleco rather than a larger species.
14. Swordtails
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
Origin: Mexico & Central America
Minimum tank size: 20 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Swimming Level: Middle/upper
Adult Size: 4 inches
Water Temperature: 64 -82 °F
pH: 7 – 8.3
Diet: Omnivore
The swordtail is yet another great livebearer for freshwater tanks. They are extremely peaceful and come in an exciting array of different colors and breeds. Swordtails are a little smaller than mollies and the males have a long, distinctive tail which is where they get their name.
These hardy fish are very easy to care for and won’t interbreed with your mollies. Swordtails enjoy very similar water parameters too, so you won’t need to worry about the two being comfortable in the same tank.
15. Tiger Barbs
Ease: 9/10. One of the safest choices for this tank setup.
Scientific Name: Puntius tetrazona
Origin: Southeast Asia
Minimum tank size: 30 gallons
Care Level: Easy
Swimming Level: Middle
Adult Size: 3 inches
Water Temperature: 74 – 79 °F
pH: 6 – 7
Diet: Omnivore
Tiger barbs have a reputation for being a little mean towards other fish, but fortunately, mollies are tough and hardy, so they can handle themselves just fine. However, make sure to keep your tiger barbs in a school of at least 6 (preferably more) to prevent any aggression.
Community Aquarium Setup
Are you ready to set up your own molly fish community tank? Let’s take a look at what you will need!
Aquarium Size
Molly fish are often kept in tanks as small as 15 gallons, although I would recommend starting at 30 gallons for a small community setup. A 55-gallon tank would be a better option if you want to have a few different fish species in schools.
Heating
Molly fish require a heater in most homes. If you live in a warm area, you is able to keep molly fish in an unheated aquarium with other fish species like white cloud minnows, swordtails, and zebra danios.
A reliable heater is a safer bet because it allows you to maintain a healthy, stable temperature for your fish. An electric thermometer with an alarm that sounds when the water gets too cool is very useful as a reminder if you’re going to be switching off your heater for the summer.
Filtration
Good filtration is the difference between a healthy vibrant tank and a toxic environment. Invest in good filtration if you want the best for the fish in your molly community tank.
A large sponge filter (or two) is a doable option for your molly community tank, but a hang-on back or canister filter is going to provide much better mechanical filtration in larger aquariums.
Don’t be afraid to run two different filters in your community tank. Overfiltering is a great way to keep your water quality high, although you should take care to keep your water flow down to low or moderate levels.
Decorations and Substrate
Adding decorations and substrate is a great way to make your molly community tank a more interesting environment for your fish, and a more appealing display for you and your family.
You can let your creativity run wild when arranging your layout, or take a more natural approach to recreate the wild environment of your fish.
Whichever route you take, make sure you use fish-safe products that are designed for aquarium use. You can design a beautiful layout by using a combination of the following materials:
Ornaments/decorations: Caves, sunken ships, castles, etc.
Live plants
Live plants make the difference between a good aquarium and a great aquarium. They might not be for everyone, but aquarium plants is remarkably easy to care for and provide some amazing benefits for your fish.
Start with the following species if you’re new to growing live plants:
Molly fish are very easy to feed, like most of the recommended tank mates in this post. They will thrive on a diet of high-quality prepared foods like flakes or pellets. Feed your fish once or twice a day, providing only enough food for them to finish in a minute or two.
Supplement your fish’s diet with occasional treats like frozen foods, baby brine shrimp, blood worms, and other insect larvae. It will improve their condition, and they’ll love it too!
Some fish have specialized diets, and the otocinclus catfish mentioned in this article is a good example.
These tiny catfish only eat algae, so they need to be kept in a mature, healthy aquarium with a good supply of natural algae. They can also be fed with vegetables like zucchini and other algae foods like wafers.
Where To Buy Aquarium Mates
All the fish in this list of tank mates for molly fish were selected to be easy to care for and easy to locate. You should have no trouble finding them at most pet stores, but consider buying from some of my recommended online dealers for a hassle-free online shopping experience! Flip Aquatics gets my full recommendation as they quarantine all their livestock.
Founded in 2010. Robert and his team at Flip Aquatics have set the standard for conditioned freshwater fish. One of the best selections of freshwater shrimp and nano fish on the internet
Mark’s Pick: Platies and swordtails. Same water parameter preferences, similar temperament, and they produce fry at similar rates. A livebearer-only community is the most natural and stable combination for mollies.
FAQs
What Fish Can Mollies Live With?
Mollies can live with a variety of other fish species. Popular compatible fish include other livebearers and small schooling fish like tetras and corydoras catfish.
Do Mollies Need Aquarim Mates?
Mollies do not need tank mates, although they are a great community fish species. However, you should not keep just a single molly because these fish prefer to live in groups with their own species.
How Many Mollies Should Be Kept Together?
It is best to keep a minimum of 3 mollies, although you can keep a much larger school if you have a large aquarium. Keep one male molly fish and two or three female molly fish in a smaller tank.
Do Mollies Eat Other Fish?
Mollies do not eat other fish although they will eat anything slow enough and small enough to swallow. They will feed on baby fish fry.
Can Black Mollies Live With Other Companions?
Black molly fish make great community fish. They is kept with the same tank mates as other molly breeds like sailfin molly fish and balloon molly fish.
Are Mollies Bottom-Dwelling?
Molly fish hang out in the middle layers of the aquarium. However, they will explore and forage in all layers of your fish tank.
Who Is This Setup Right For?
After years of setting up and advising on molly communities, the setups that worked best were always the ones built around water chemistry first, fish second. Mollies are not a fish you build a mixed tropical community around, they’re a fish you build a livebearer community around.
Good Fit If:
You have hard, alkaline water, pH 7.5–8.5, that naturally suits mollies and other livebearers
You want a livebearer community with platies, swordtails, or guppies
You’re prepared for constant fry production and have a plan for the offspring
You want an active, colorful freshwater community with minimal aggression
Avoid If:
You keep discus, rams, or other soft-water species that need different parameters
You have no plan for molly fry, they breed without any intervention and populations grow fast
You want to mix mollies with cichlids, most cichlids will harass or eat them
You have a tank with hard-to-maintain water chemistry, mollies need consistency
Final Thoughts
Molly fish are one of the most popular species in the aquarium hobby for a good reason. These fascinating and hardy pets get along great with many other fish species. Pick tank mates from this list for your own community aquarium and enjoy everything these fish have to offer!
Do you keep molly fish in a community tank? Tell us about your favorite tank mates in the comments below!
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Electric blue acaras become territorial during breeding and will attack tank mates near their spawning site. Provide heavy planting or decorations to break line of sight during spawning, or remove other fish temporarily.
Electric blue acaras are one of the best cichlids for community tanks, but that does not mean they are easy. They still dig, still get territorial during breeding, and still need clean water to keep that color. I have seen too many people treat them as a beginner fish and then wonder why their acara looks washed out and hides all day. Get the setup right and this fish is incredible. Get it wrong and you will never see what it is capable of. The cichlid that finally made peaceful and stunning work in the same sentence.
The cichlid that finally made ‘peaceful’ and ‘stunning’ work in the same sentence.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Electric Blue Acara
The misconception I encounter most with electric blue acaras is that they’re as aggressive as other acaras. They’re not. The standard blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher) is a noticeably more assertive fish. The electric blue variant has been selectively bred for color, and in that process, much of the aggression has been bred out. I’ve kept them successfully in community tanks with tetras and corydoras, which would be risky with a standard blue acara. The second myth is that they’re a naturally occurring species. They’re a line-bred color morph, and that selective breeding also means they is slightly less hardy than their wild-type cousins.
Frequently Asked Questions
How big do electric blue acaras get?
Electric blue acaras reach 5 to 7 inches in a home aquarium. Males are slightly larger than females. They reach close to full size within about a year with proper feeding and water quality.
Are electric blue acaras aggressive?
They are one of the most peaceful cichlids available. While they can hold their own, they rarely start conflicts and do well in community setups with similarly sized fish. Minor territorial behavior may appear during breeding, but it is mild compared to most cichlids.
What tank size does an electric blue acara need?
A single electric blue acara needs at least a 30-gallon tank. For a pair or community setup, 55 gallons or more is recommended to give them enough swimming room and territory.
Can electric blue acaras live with other cichlids?
Yes, they pair well with other peaceful to moderately aggressive cichlids like Bolivian rams, keyhole cichlids, and severums. Avoid housing them with highly aggressive species like Jack Dempseys or large Central American cichlids that will bully them.
Are electric blue acaras hard to keep?
No, they are considered beginner-friendly for cichlid keepers. They tolerate a wide range of water parameters, accept most foods readily, and are hardy against common diseases. Their peaceful nature also makes community planning easier.
The Reality of Keeping Electric Blue Acara
The Electric Blue Acara gets marketed as the perfect beginner cichlid, and honestly, it is closer to that than most. But there are still realities you need to face before buying one.
They are a selectively bred variant. The Electric Blue Acara is not a wild species. It is a line-bred color morph, and that means genetic quality varies enormously between breeders. Cheap EBAs from mass-production farms often have weaker immune systems and less vibrant color than specimens from quality breeders.
They still establish territories. Yes, they are peaceful for a cichlid. No, that does not mean they are pushovers. A breeding pair of EBAs will absolutely defend their territory against anything that comes too close. In a small tank, this means the rest of your fish get bullied.
Water quality shows immediately. When an EBA is stressed or in poor water, the first thing you notice is color loss. That electric blue fades to a dull gray-blue. If your fish is losing color, test your water before anything else.
They are diggers. EBAs rearrange substrate and uproot plants. If you have a carefully aquascaped tank with delicate stem plants, be prepared for some redecorating. Use hardy, well-rooted plants or attach plants to hardscape.
Biggest Mistake New Electric Blue Acara Owners Make
Keeping them in a tank that is too small. A single EBA needs 30 gallons minimum. A pair needs 40 to 55. Cramming them into a 20 gallon causes territorial stress that ruins their color and temperament.
Expert Take (Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot)
Pair an Electric Blue Acara with a school of larger tetras like Colombians or Congos, add some corydoras, and plant the tank heavily. This is one of the most visually stunning and behaviorally interesting community setups you can build in freshwater.
Electric blue acaras are one of the most colorful and beginner-accessible South American cichlids. They are peaceful for a cichlid, adaptable to community tanks, and do not dig aggressively outside breeding season.
Key Takeaways
Electric blue acaras are a type of hybrid South American cichlid.
These fish are very popular due to their intense coloration, compatible demeanor, and ease of breeding.
The electric blue acara is a large fish that needs plenty of open swimming space and decorations to rearrange.
A Quick Overview On The Electric Blue Acara
Scientific Name
Andinoacara pulcher
Common Names
Electric blue acara, Blue acara, Acara
Family
Cichlidae
Origin
Unnaturally occurring (Hybridization of a South American cichlid species)
Diet
Omnivore
Care Level
Moderate
Activity
Active
Lifespan
7 to 10 years
Temperament
Semi-aggressive
Tank Level
Middle to bottom
Minimum Tank Size
40 gallons
Temperature Range
74° F to 82° F
Water Hardness
2 to 10 KH
pH Range
6.0 to 7.0
Filtration/Water Flow
Low to moderate
Water Type
Freshwater
Breeding
Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed
Easy
Compatibility
Semi-aggressive community tanks
OK, for Planted Tanks?
With caution
Classification
Order
Cichliformes
Family
Cichlidae
Subfamily
Cichlinae
Genus
Andinoacara
Species
A. Pulcher (Gill, 1858)
What Is Are They?
The electric blue acara is not a naturally occurring fish. This is a hybrid mainly derived from the naturally occurring blue acara, Andinoacara pulcher; it is believed that they were mixed with blue ram cichlids (Mikrogeophagus ramirezi) at some point as well. This means that the electric blue acara cannot be found in nature and has been bred for its color expression within the aquarium hobby.
While a hybrid, the electric blue acara is still regarded as the Andinoacara pulcher species. They are members of the Cichlidae family and a type of South American cichlid.
In the aquarium hobby, the electric blue acara is a favorite cichlid to keep due to its bright coloration, hardiness, conforming temperament, and easy breeding. Unlike other similar South American cichlids that are mouth brooders, the electric blue acara is an egg layer that displays excellent parental care.
When shopping for your electric blue acara, make sure to confirm whether it is a hybrid or the parent species. Some fish stores may label this species as blue acara or simply acara, which is confusing.
Origin and Habitat
The electric blue acara (video source) may not occur in the wild, but its closest relative, the blue acara, does. The blue acara originates from South America, mainly throughout parts of mainland Venezuela and off the coast in Trinidad and Tobago. They have also been documented in several other countries as nonnatives, but little documentation of their range exists.
In these countries, the blue acara is found in a variety of ecosystems. These conditions range from murky, standstill waters to clear and running rivers. As a South American cichlid, the blue acara prefers softer and more acidic water parameters.
Appearance
What makes the electric blue acara so appealing to hobbyists is its colors. These fish are a flash of brilliant light in the aquarium with their bright blue bodies!
The electric blue acara was hybridized from a series of overly bright and colorful blue acara as well as blue rams. This led to their almost-metallic pale blue body color; some fish may have underlying hints of yellow or orange. Lower-grade acaras will even have patches of blue missing, revealing sections of black and grey.
Electric blue acaras have relatively large fins with respect to their body size. Mature males have a longer and more pointed dorsal fin while females have smaller fins overall. They can both display a yellow or orange margin on the top of the dorsal fin.
This difference in size is not always a tried and true method to tell male and female fish apart, though, especially if they’re still juveniles. As we’ll see, male and female pairs will need to form on their own in most scenarios.
How Big Do They Get?
Don’t be mistaken by the popularity of dwarf South American cichlids. The electric blue acara is a full-grown member of the cichlid family, growing to be about 6 to 7 inches on average. These freshwater fish are not dwarf cichlids and cannot be kept in nano tank conditions!
How Long Do They Live?
On top of being a relatively big fish, electric blue acaras can live for a surprisingly long time. On average, these fish live to be anywhere from 7 to 10 years old. They are very hardy and will thrive in an established and well-maintained freshwater setup.
Care
The electric blue acara is a hardy fish without many needs. Remember, blue acaras is found in a variety of environmental conditions, which means that these freshwater fish can also adapt to most aquarium conditions.
All in all, the electric blue acara has very basic cichlid care requirements.
Aquarium Setup
While you will have a perfect aquarium setup in mind for your new electric blue acara, your fish will have other plans. Like other cichlids, electric blues will rearrange the tank to how they like it, especially during spawning periods.
Electric blue acaras are relatively large fish that enjoy their swimming space. They mainly stay towards the bottom of the tank but will venture into the upper middle portions at times.
The best electric blue acara tank will have a minimal design with open space that accents the natural colors and behaviors of the fish. This includes a sand substrate along with driftwood or rock for decoration.
Electric blue acaras can successfully be kept with live plants, but only species that mind being uprooted from time to time. Because of this, hobbyists only keep floating plants with their cichlids.
Good live plants for electric blue acaras include:
These fish don’t need a lot of plant coverage, but a backdrop of green will especially make their colors pop out. Floating plants is helpful for dimming lighting conditions and making fish feel more like in their natural habitat.
Otherwise, electric blues can absolutely be kept in a community tank. I’d actually call them one of the most community-friendly cichlids in the hobby setting as long as small fish species are able to find protection in size, a school, or in decorations.
Tank Size
There are many ways to set up a tank with the electric blue acara in mind. Hobbyists use this fish species as the showpiece of the display, with all other species being catered towards them. Other hobbyists keep only electric blue acaras in their tanks and let them breed.
The bare minimum tank size for an electric blue breeding tank is 40 gallons. This allows for the male and female fish as well as the fry until they are big enough to stop receiving parental care. If planning on keeping a pair of electric blue acaras in a community tank with other species, then at least 55 gallons is recommended with a larger tank size being much more preferred.
Electric blue acara are active swimmers that need a lot of open space to enjoy. As a cichlid species, they can also be territorial, especially the males during spawning times. To help prevent any possible aggression from this otherwise peaceful fish, a larger tank will allow for more space between tank mates.
Water Parameters
The electric blue acara is a hardy fish that adapts to most aquarium water conditions. They are regarded as a beginner cichlid species, forgiving imperfections and wavering water parameters. That being said, they cannot tolerate ammonia or nitrite and breeding will demand more specific parameters.
To keep your electric blue as happy and healthy as possible, imitate the conditions found in the blue acara’s natural habitat in South America. This means soft, acidic water with water hardness between 2 and 10 KH and pH between 6.0 to 7.0. They are tropical fish and need a tropical water temperature between 74° F to 82° F.
Tank Maintenance
A weekly or biweekly 15 to 25% water change should be performed to keep nitrates low and to keep water quality up. Live plants will help keep nitrate levels from rising, but the rest will need to be manually removed. Most tanks do well with under 20 ppm nitrate.
At the same time as the water change, the substrate should be vacuumed to remove uneaten food and other wastes that will have accumulated. Because these are bigger fish, they’ll eat bigger foods that cause a lot more nutrients to enter the water column if left to rot.
Filtration and other aquarium equipment should also be cleaned every few months depending on waste and algae buildup.
Filtration and Aeration
Electric blue acaras do well with a hang on the back or canister filter. They do not have any special filtration needs other than regular maintenance.
This filter should be rated for at least 2x the size of the tank as these are relatively big fish. Electric blue acaras do best in a slow to medium flow, though they can adapt to higher water currents as long as there are areas of lower flow throughout the aquarium. Also, note that a higher flow can upset a sand substrate in addition to the disruption caused by your fish.
Additional aeration is not necessary but an air stone is used to help circulate lower portions of the tank and to add aesthetic.
Lighting
Though these colorful fish look best under high lighting, they prefer low to medium light settings. Because hobbyists don’t keep light-demanding plant species with electric blue acaras, there is no recommended light setup; these fish will thrive under a fluorescent or LED light fixture.
If the light fixture is too intense, then floating plants and other aquarium decorations is used to diffuse bright areas. A low water flow in addition to high lighting can fuel algae growth.
Aquatic Plants and Decorations
As mentioned before, electric blue acara is kept with a variety of live plants. The problem is that these fish regularly uproot and disturb their surroundings, so the species of plants kept must be able to tolerate some rough handling.
Again, some of the best species include Anubias, Java fern, and hornwort. Though hobbyists may try to tie or glue these plants down, your fish will rearrange the tank to its liking eventually.
The same is said about the aquarium decorations used. Most cichlid enthusiasts keep their tanks simple with rocks, like Texas holey rock, ceramic flower pots, and driftwood. Electric blues will likely claim a piece of this real estate for themselves and guard it against other tank mates, though in a passive manner. During spawning times, electric blue acara will become noticeably more aggressive and territorial.
Almost all cichlids love to burrow in the sand. Some even create breeding pits where they spawn, including the electric blue acara.
These aquarium fish will do best on a sandy substrate where they are free to change their surroundings based on their own preferences. This can certainly become messy at times and leave the controlling aquascaper frustrated. However, gravel can frustrate the fish and even injure them.
Is the Electric Blue Acara Right for You?
Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.
One of the best cichlids for community tanks. Their mild temperament makes them compatible with a wide range of peaceful to semi-aggressive species.
Stunning color that rivals saltwater fish. The iridescent blue coloration is genuinely breathtaking under good lighting.
Perfect for keepers who want a cichlid without the drama. If you like the personality of cichlids but don’t want to manage aggression, this is your fish.
Needs a 30-gallon minimum. They reach about 6-7 inches, so they need more space than most dwarf cichlids.
Not the hardiest cichlid available. Their selective breeding means they can be slightly more sensitive to water quality swings than wild-type species.
Excellent for planted tanks. Unlike many cichlids, they leave plants alone and look spectacular against green backgrounds.
Food and Diet
One of the best things about electric blue acara is that they eat anything you offer them! These fish are not picky and are a joy to watch eat. That being said, they need a high-quality diet to keep their colors shining brightest.
Electric blues will appreciate a variety of live, freeze-dried, and frozen foods. They are larger fish that need to be fed several times throughout the day. To help keep costs down, a high-quality fish food flake or pellet may be given regularly. Brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, bloodworms, earthworms, and even fresh pieces of mollusk and fish may be given as a treat.
A poor diet will not result in the best colors and may affect the success of broods and the spawning process.
Community Tank Mates
Electric blue acaras are a favorite cichlid due to their passive demeanor. They is kept with an assortment of tank mates, both bigger and smaller, more active and less active.
The best electric blue acara community tank mates include:
Though they are labeled as semi-aggressive fish, electric blues can be both ends of the spectrum when needed. In a community tank, these fish will be peaceful. When placed with more aggressive species, they will be able to hold their own.
Can You Keep A Single By Itself?
While electric blue acaras aren’t schooling fish, they definitely prefer to be in groups with their own kind. It is not recommended to only keep one single electric blue acara as this will cause stress in the form of aggression or reclusion.
How Many Should You Have?
Electric blue acaras are kept in pairs. However, males and females is difficult to tell apart, especially when they’re sold as juveniles in aquarium stores.
To get the best breeding pair possible, many hobbyists purchase a small group of about 5 fish. As they mature, they naturally pair off on their own. This saves some confusion about sexing them and gives the hobbyist several pairs to choose from.
In the end, though, most hobbyists only keep one pair due to males becoming aggressive towards each other.
Poor Tank Mates
While the electric blue acara is one of the most adaptable cichlid tank mates, they’re not right for every home aquarium setup. Poor tank mates are ones that can easily fit in an electric blue’s mouth or ones that are overly aggressive or that try to fight back!
In addition, small invertebrates, like dwarf shrimp and snails, will also be seen as food for your electric blue acara.
Breeding
Breeding electric blue acara is fun and easy. Unlike other similar cichlids, the electric blue acara is an egg layer and not a mouthbrooder. These fish still display some excellent parenting, though! Check out the video below from Uri Shasha.
The most challenging part about breeding electric blues is getting a good breeding pair. As mentioned before, it is difficult to tell the males apart from the females. Males are larger with more elongated and pointed dorsal fins, while females are smaller. Even as adults, these physical differences is hard to see.
Luckily, electric blue acaras are monogamous fish that mate for life. They become sexually mature when they are 1 year old and about 4 inches.
To get a breeding pair, it’s recommended to purchase a small group of juveniles and allow them to pair off on their own. Once mature, the best pair may be picked. These fish may then be bred in the main display aquarium or in a breeding tank. A 20-gallon breeding tank will allow for more control and overall success in keeping fry alive.
In either case, the water temperature should be set to 77° F with a relatively neutral pH and slightly soft water. When ready, the female will lay her eggs on flat rocks or other accessible surfaces throughout the aquarium. One clutch includes about 100 to 200 eggs. The male will quickly fertilize them once laid.
Over the course of the next two to three days, the parents will protect the eggs. It’s possible that they will create a pit in the substrate where they will move the fry once hatched. This can cause a lot of disruption to the substrate and aquascaping. During this time, males will become especially aggressive towards other tank mates, though won’t injure or kill them.
After these few days, the eggs will hatch. The parents may move the fry to the pit or leave them where they are. The parents will continue to deliver care until the fry are fully free-swimming. Then, the parent electric blues will deliver food to the fry, so small foods, like baby brine shrimp, should be supplemented. At this point, the fry or the parents may be removed from the tank to increase survival chances. This is especially recommended if spawning these fish in the main display.
Over the next two months, the baby fish will continue to develop. They should continue to be given small fry food, but can eventually be fed crushed fish flakes. Once big enough, the baby electric blue acaras is moved to the display aquarium or given to another hobbyist.
The parent electric blues will be ready to mate again in a matter of weeks. Once they have started, they are likely to continue as long as water quality and other tank conditions are met.
Common Health Problems
Electric blue acaras are hardier than most fish. Because they’re hybrids, they exist only in the aquarium hobby and have been exposed to the most common health problems. Still, these fish are susceptible to freshwater ich and skin flukes. Luckily, these problems is easily treated and easily avoided.
When purchasing an electric blue acara, make sure that its colors are bright and its behaviors are normal. These fish should be active and colorful. Always ask the store representative to watch them eat; if there is any refusal, the fish is most likely sick or stressed.
As always, it’s recommended to quarantine new fish for at least three weeks before adding them to a new system.
What It Is Actually Like Living With Electric Blue Acara
This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.
They greet you at the glass. EBAs are personable fish that learn your routine. They come to the front of the tank when you walk in the room, and some will eat from your hand with patience.
Breeding is almost inevitable. If you have a male and female, they will breed. EBAs are prolific spawners that lay eggs on flat surfaces. The parents guard the eggs and fry aggressively, which changes the entire dynamic of a community tank.
They are surprisingly compatible. I have kept EBAs with angelfish, rainbowfish, and even discus without issues. Their low-aggression profile makes them one of the most versatile cichlids in the hobby.
Color intensity fluctuates. EBAs can look electric blue one minute and pale the next. Mood, lighting, diet, and water quality all affect their coloration in real time. Do not panic if they look washed out after a water change. It is temporary.
How the Electric Blue Acara Compares to Similar Species
The natural comparison is the standard blue acara (Andinoacara pulcher). The standard version is hardier, slightly more aggressive, and available wild-caught. Electric blue acaras are calmer and more colorful but is less robust due to selective breeding. If you want a community-friendly cichlid, the electric blue is the better choice. If you want maximum hardiness and don’t mind some territorial behavior, the standard blue acara is more forgiving.
The German blue ram is another comparison for keepers wanting a colorful, peaceful cichlid. Rams are smaller (2-3 inches vs. 6-7 inches for the electric blue acara) and significantly more temperature-sensitive, needing 82°F+ to thrive. Electric blue acaras are comfortable in the standard tropical range of 72-82°F, making them easier to keep in mixed community tanks. For most keepers, the electric blue acara is the more practical choice. Similar beauty, less demanding care requirements, and a longer expected lifespan.
Final Thoughts
An electric blue acara in the wrong setup is just a grey fish hiding behind a rock.
Electric blue acaras are an extremely popular hybrid cichlid. These beautiful fish are vibrant in coloration and behavior and are some of the easiest cichlids to breed. Electric blues are large fish, so they need to be given plenty of space, especially if planning to keep a pair with other tank mates. However, they is kept in a variety of tank setups and will accommodate the demeanors of other fish.
The Comet Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.
A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.
Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.
A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.
What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Comet Goldfish
Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.
Most care sheets list the minimum tank size for Comet Goldfish and call it a day. But a minimum is just that. In my experience, giving them more room changes their behavior completely. You see more natural movement, less stress, and fewer aggression issues. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Comet Goldfish are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.
The Reality of Keeping Comet Goldfish
Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.
Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.
They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.
Biggest Mistake New Owners Make
Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.
Expert Take
The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.
Key Takeaways
The comet goldfish is named after its long and forked flowing tail.
These fish are most closely related to the common goldfish breed, meaning that they can grow in excess of a foot long and live long lives.
Like most goldfish, the comet goldfish creates a lot of waste and does best in a large aquarium or pond setting with strong filtration.
Comet Goldfish Overview
Scientific Name
Carassius auratus
Common Names
Comet goldfish, Comet-tailed goldfish
Family
Cyprinidae
Origin
China
Diet
Omnivore
Care Level
Easy
Activity
Moderate
Lifespan
15+ years
Temperament
Peaceful
Tank Level
All levels, mainly mid-level
Minimum Tank Size
55 gallons
Temperature Range
60ºF to 72ºF
Water Hardness
2 to 12 KH
pH Range
6.5 to 7.5
Filtration/Water Flow
Moderate
Water Type
Freshwater
Breeding
Egg-layer
Difficulty to Breed
Moderate
Compatibility
Compatible with koi and other single-tail goldfish
OK, for Planted Tanks?
With caution
Classification
Taxonomic Rank
Classification
Common Name
Comet Goldfish
Scientific Name
Carassius auratus
Order
Cypriniformes
Family
Cyprinidae
Genus
Carassius
Species
C. Auratus
What Is A Comet Goldfish?
Most people have owned a goldfish at one point or another in their lives. But did you know that there are many different types of goldfish all with their own unique traits and characteristics?
The comet goldfish is a common breed of goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus. These fish are very similar to the main breed of goldfish, the common goldfish. While these two fish are the same species, there are a few differences between them and other goldfish. As we’ll see, the main difference lies in the shape of their tail fin.
Are They Good Pets?
We is biased, but we think that all fish make good pets. They’re easy to keep, relatively inexpensive, low on time requirements, and make any area of the home come to life.
Comet goldfish care is relatively straightforward, even for inexperienced keepers. As long as time and research are given to making preparations before impulsively buying the fish, then your comet goldfish should be with you as a pet for years to come.
Why Are They So Cheap?
If comet goldfish make good pets, then why are they so cheap? These fish are often given away as prizes or as supplementary food for larger fish. They are often sold for under a dollar and are found in nearly every pet store that carries fish. There are a few reasons why these fish are so cheap.
The first reason is that comet goldfish are bred on a mass scale as primarily feeder fish. These fish are easy to breed and easy to keep, making them an ideal breed to retail as feeder fish. The problem is that they are often kept in poor conditions which leads them to be very sickly, subsequently spreading disease and illness to each other and to other fish.
The other reason why comet goldfish are so cheap is that they’re not very desirable fish and take up a lot of space. We’re sad to say that there are many more beautiful fish other than the comet goldfish, including fancy goldfish. These fancier counterparts are more ornate and take up less space. This, in addition to the hundreds of other more colorful tropical fish available, leaves many hobbyists choosing something other than a cold water fish.
Origin and Habitat
Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.
Goldfish have been domesticated for hundreds of years for their colors and symbolism. These fish were and still are a sign of wealth and prosperity, though many hobbyists adore them for their extreme hardiness and variety of breeds.
The first goldfish were domesticated from crucian carp. These carp originated in China from cold and shallow lakes and ponds. Crucian carp feature dusky brown and yellow coloration. Over time, the undertones of yellow and orange were selectively bred until arriving at the intense coloration of the common goldfish today.
However, the breeding didn’t stop there. There are estimated to be well over 100 breeds of goldfish, with the comet being one of the most closely related to the common goldfish.
Comet goldfish and common goldfish do not naturally exist in the wild. In fact, no breed of goldfish exists in the wild. Sadly, many people are unaware of goldfish’s true needs and release them into nearby streams and rivers. Many of these fish don’t survive, but some do. This makes them an invasive species that will impact ecosystems on a large scale1.
Appearance
The comet goldfish is one of the more basic-looking breeds of goldfish. There are a few differences between this breed and the common breed. The biggest difference lies in their fins.
Comet goldfish have long and flowing fins that resemble the tail of an astronomical comet. This is in comparison to the common goldfish’s short and triangular fins that follow close behind. The biggest difference between these two fins is that comets have a deeply forked tail fin while common’s have a slight indent in the middle.
For the most part, common goldfish only come in typical goldfish-orange coloration. Comets offer more variety with orange, yellow, red, and white color patterns.
How Big Do They Get?
One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a breed of goldfish is its potential size. Common goldfish can easily surpass a foot in length, though most stay about 10 inches on average.
Because of their long, flowing fins, comet goldfish size is going to be slightly larger, reaching mature lengths of 12 inches. It should also be said that while these fish grow to be long, they can also grow to be pretty chunky too!
Do They Stop Growing?
It’s long been said that fish will only grow to be the size of the tank that they’re given.
Or maybe you’ve heard that fish will have externally stunted growth in small tanks, but that their organs keep growing on the inside.
While this area of fish biology has been little studied, it is true that both these statements are false. The majority of fish, including goldfish, are indeterminate growers that continue to grow with age as long as environmental conditions allow. Though it might seem like your fish has comfortably grown into its tank, it’s actually being stunted due to other factors, including limited space, poor water quality, and in diet. However, its organs will grow in relationship to its body.
How Long Does It Take For Them Reach Full Size?
This is a very common question as many aquarium keepers plan on growing out their goldfish until it’s ready for a bigger aquarium or pond. It’s important to know that goldfish grow rapidly and don’t stop.
Comet goldfish can grow to their mature size in a matter of a year or two. A small fish can quickly become full-grown before you know it. Though a grow-out tank is ideal for an outdoor pond system to prevent predators from eating juveniles, this method is never recommended for a tank-to-tank transfer.
How Long Do They Live?
Goldfish have extremely long lives and can live for a long time in less-than-perfect conditions. Comet goldfish can live about 15 years with many growing older than this. These fish are a long-term commitment and need to be given plenty of thought before being purchased.
Color Variations
Not all goldfish are gold. In fact, the comet goldfish comes in many different colors besides the traditional copper tone of the common breed. These fish is orange or yellow and have red and white color patterns. Some of these color combinations have been specifically bred with design in mind.
These designer comet goldfish include:
Sarasa comet goldfish. This variety has a white body with multiple solid bright red spots. This red coloration is on the dorsal portions of the fish but can extend to the underbelly as well.
Tancho single-tail comet goldfish. The Tancho coloration is simple yet effective. These fish have a bright red cap on their head while the rest of the body stays iridescent white. This cap may be irregular in shape, sometimes splitting in half.
Care Requirements
Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.
Goldfish are an oxymoron. They are an easy fish species to keep, but their care requirements is surprisingly demanding. While comet goldfish are very hardy fish that can survive less-than-perfect water conditions, they require a lot of upkeep and maintenance to keep them happy and healthy.
Aquarium Setup
Goldfish setups are simple by design. These fish do best with tons of open swimming space, little to no decorations, and strong filtration. No matter what though, these fish cannot live in a goldfish bowl!
Comet goldfish are inexpensive fish that are won at carnivals and fairs. They are sometimes even sold as feeder fish for other larger predatory species. Because of their inexpensive price and oftentimes small holding tanks, unknowing goldfish owners think that they don’t need an elaborate setup. While this is true, there are some conditions that need to be met.
A good comet goldfish tank will be a large tank with an appropriate substrate, good water flow and aeration, correct water temperatures, and appropriate tank mates. Comet fish can also be kept in outdoor ponds as they hibernate over the cold months.
Some goldfish enthusiasts keep live plants with their comets. Plants add many benefits to the home aquarium and are essential for keeping a natural environment in pond settings. However, goldfish love to eat and uproot plants, which can add additional waste to the system. Hardy and fast-growing species, like Anacharis and hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum), is successfully kept in a goldfish aquarium.
Tank Size
Sadly, many goldfish are kept in improper tank sizes. These are large and active freshwater fish that create a lot of waste. They need space to move around and water volume to help keep ammonia and nitrite levels down.
The minimum tank size recommended for one comet goldfish is a 55 gallon tank. This might seem like a lot, especially when the fish is only a few inches big. However, comet goldfish can grow to over 10 inches in the first couple of years of their life. Too many hobbyists purchase goldfish with the intention of getting a larger aquarium or building a pond. Many times, these plans fall through and the fish is left in too small of a tank (video source).
In order to keep another comet goldfish, a 75 gallon tank is needed. In general, every additional fish requires another 40 gallons of water. This is why these fish will do best in a large pond setting, though it is possible to keep multiple comet goldfish long-term in the home aquarium.
Water Parameters
It’s important to goldfish aren’t tropical fish like many of the other species available in the aquarium hobby. They originate from cold waters and need to be kept in cooler conditions in the home aquarium setting. For experienced keepers, this means buying an aquarium chiller to help keep the water temperature down.
The ideal water temperature range for comet goldfish is between 60ºF and 72ºF. Experienced keepers keep their comet goldfish tank above or below these values, but overly hot temperatures can lead to stress while cooler temperatures can lead to hibernation. Ambient room temperature is often enough to keep a goldfish aquarium heated, but extra stability is achieved through a low-range heater.
On top of colder water temperatures, comet goldfish care relies heavily on maintaining ammonia and nitrite levels. These fish create a ton of waste through their diet and fast metabolism. Most oversized filtration can keep up with processing fish waste, but regular tank maintenance and weekly or daily water changes are also needed; most hobbyists perform upwards of 25% water changes at any given time.
Lighting
Comet goldfish do not require special lighting. Because they are not commonly kept with live plants, there is no need for high-tech equipment. Instead, comet goldfish can live under LED or fluorescent settings.
There is a chance that your goldfish will change colors based on the intensity of the lighting; a darker light will cause your fish to become darker and vice versa.
Filtration and Aeration
One of the most important aspects of keeping comet goldfish is picking the right filtration. These are big fish with fast metabolisms that create a lot of waste. It is recommended to use filtration that is rated for at least 4x the size of the aquarium, with bigger always being better.
Since hang-on-the-back filtration can become too big for the side of the tank, many goldfish keepers use a canister filter. Canister filters are also advantageous as the return nozzles is pointed downwards to help pick up and remove waste from the bottom of the tank. Multiple hang on the back filters or canister filters is used for adequate filtration and circulation.
To help supplement water flow, powerheads and air stones may also be added. Goldfish have adapted to waters with low dissolved oxygen levels, so air stones aren’t necessary for increasing oxygen. Instead, they is efficient at keeping fish waste from resting at the bottom of the aquarium.
Substrate
Goldfish do best without any substrate in a bare-bottom aquarium setup. In fact, having a substrate can create more work for the owner.
All goldfish, including comet fish, love to dig in and around gravel and sand substrate. They uproot plants, move decorations, and kick up detritus that gets stuck on the bottom. This can become messy over time and lead to problems with water quality. In addition, a bare bottom makes aquarium vacuuming and waste removal much easier, which is essential for keeping a goldfish aquarium clean.
That being said, goldfish have successfully been kept on both gravel and sand substrates. Extra care and maintenance will be needed to keep waste from entering the water column.
Once you choose to set up a goldfish tank, there is little you can do to have any other fish besides goldfish. This is mainly because of differences in preferred water temperature, but also because of differing temperaments and behaviors as well as bioload. Goldfish need to be kept with other large and active cold water species, and not many fish meet their criteria or behave as good tank mates.
The best tank mates for comet goldfish are other single-tail breeds, namely other comets and common goldfish, in addition to koi fish. Unfortunately, these pond fish must be kept with like-breeds and cannot be mixed with fancy varieties. Fancy goldfish are too slow and delicate to compete with much more active comets.
Experienced keepers have had success keeping zebra danios (Danio rerio) and dojo loaches (Misgurnus anguillicaudatus) with their comets, but we do not recommend this setup for under 100 gallons.
Diet
Goldfish are some of the least picky fish when it comes to feeding them; so much so that they might try to eat your finger!
Comet goldfish are omnivores, which means that they need meat- and plant-based foods. They largely accept most aquarium foods, including live, frozen, and freeze-dried brine shrimp, earthworms, and bloodworms. They will also gladly munch on blanched vegetables, including lettuce, cucumber, and zucchini. Experienced keepers also cultivate easy-to-grow live plants, like Anacharis, to feed their goldfish.
To help keep costs low, comet goldfish is given high-quality goldfish pellets or flakes.
Comet goldfish will eat as much food as you give them. This means that food should be given in moderation and any leftovers that happen to evade your fish should be removed to keep waste levels low.
Breeding
Though easy fish to keep, breeding comet goldfish is difficult and can only be achieved in a large pond setting. There isn’t a huge market for regular comet goldfish in the aquarium trade, so giving fry away can also be challenging.
Because breeding goldfish in an aquarium setting requires very large systems, we will only focus on spawning comet fish in a pond setting. Spawning naturally occurs during late spring/early summer when the water temperature starts to rise. This is replicated in the home aquarium by using a heater.
First, establish a male and female pair. Females are rounder and more robust than streamlined males. Female comets may also develop protruding anal vents during spawning periods while males may develop white tubercles on the gill covers. When ready to mate, males will chase the female in hopes that she will drop her eggs to be fertilized. Because of this aggressive courtship, at least 2 to 3 females should be kept per every male.
When ready, the female will lay her eggs., this is near vegetation, a spawning mop, or another safe structure. The male will fertilize them and they will hatch after a few days. During this time, the parents and other goldfish are likely to eat the eggs. For better success, remove the fertilized eggs and move them to a separate system.
When the eggs hatch, the fry will stay toward the substrate as they feed off their egg yolk. As the egg yolk runs out, they will become free-swimming and start to search for food. At this point, they may be offered baby brine shrimp, crushed-up pellets and flakes, and other microscopic foods.
Goldfish fry grow fast, so be prepared to transfer them to their final home within several weeks!
Common Health Problems
Like all aquarium fish, comet goldfish are susceptible to common fish diseases like ich, velvet, and fin rot. Because comets have elongated fins, they can easily develop fin rot if water quality is poor.
There are a few other problems that are unique to goldfish, though.
Two of the main health problems with goldfish are ammonia poisoning and nitrite poisoning. Both of these conditions are a result of poor water quality and are easily avoided. However, poor water quality can also lead to swim bladder disease and dropsy, which is nearly impossible to treat.
A healthy goldfish always starts with good water quality. Make sure to quarantine new additions for at least 4 weeks and check your tank daily for any changes in appearance or behavior.
ASD Difficulty Rating: Tier 2 – Intermediate — Comet goldfish grow large, produce heavy waste, and live 10–15 years. Simple in concept, demanding in practice.
Hard Rule: Comet goldfish grow to 12 inches (30 cm) and are best kept in ponds. Standard aquariums stunt their growth, compromise their health, and shorten their lives to a fraction of their potential.
Is the Comet Goldfish Right for You?
Good Fit If:
You have an outdoor pond or a 125+ gallon (474 L) aquarium for a long-term indoor setup
You want an active, fast-swimming goldfish with a classic look
You can commit to the filtration demands of a heavy bio-load fish
You are comfortable with cooler water (60–70°F / 16–21°C) and no tropical fish
Avoid If:
Your tank is under 75 gallons (284 L) – even that is only appropriate for juveniles
You keep tropical species that need 78°F+ – comet goldfish prefer significantly cooler water
You want a fish that stays small and manageable in a standard community tank
You are not prepared for the long-term commitment of a fish that lives 10–15 years
Final Thoughts
Comet goldfish aren’t the showiest of all goldfish varieties, but they’re more exciting than the common goldfish. That being said, these are still huge fish that need a lot of space and good tank maintenance to keep them from developing health issues. Due to their size and bioload, they’re best in a large aquarium system or an outdoor pond.
After 25 years in this hobby and time managing fish stores, I’ve seen the same mistakes made over and over. Someone falls in love with a fish at the store, buys it on impulse, and wonders why the tank crashes two weeks later. This list exists to stop that from happening to you.
The right fish for your tank is not the most beautiful fish in the store. It’s the fish that fits the tank you actually have.
I built this list based on real-world availability, beginner-friendliness, community compatibility, visual impact, and long-term sustainability in a home aquarium. These are the 30 freshwater fish I recommend most, based on what I’ve seen work at the hobbyist level, the store level, and in my own tanks over a career in this hobby.
Expert Take | Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot
Most “best fish” lists rank by popularity. This one ranks by how well a fish actually performs in a real beginner-to-intermediate freshwater tank. In my experience running fish stores and keeping tanks for 25+ years, the most popular fish and the best fish for your setup are often not the same thing. The fish that survive and thrive long-term tend to be forgiving, compatible with a range of tankmates, and available from quality sources. That’s what I used to build this list.
Key Takeaways
Match the fish to the tank you actually have, not the one you’re planning. Size, temperature, and compatibility need to work now.
Keep schooling fish like tetras, barbs, and danios in groups of at least 6. A school of 3 is not a school. It’s a stressed fish waiting to get sick.
Never add fish to an uncycled tank. This is the single biggest mistake I see beginners make, and it kills fish.
Research adult size before you buy. That cute 2-inch fish at the store can become a 12-inch problem in 18 months.
How These Were Ranked
Availability: can you actually buy this fish at a local store or reputable online source
Beginner-friendliness: forgiving of beginner mistakes in water quality and tank setup
Community compatibility: works in a mixed community without becoming a problem
Visual impact: interesting enough to make the tank worth watching
Long-term sustainability: does not outgrow a normal tank, does not require specialist care
Is This List Right for You?
Good Fit
Setting up your first or second community tank
Looking for fish that are widely available and easy to find
Want a tank that looks good without specialist-level maintenance
20 to 75 gallon freshwater setup
Look Elsewhere If
You want rare or specialty species
Running a species-only or biotope tank
Setting up a predator or cichlid-only tank
Looking for saltwater options
30 Of The Best Freshwater Aquarium Fish
These are my picks, ranked by how well they perform in real community tanks. The specs below are real, not padded. I’ve personally kept the majority of these species, and I’ve sold thousands of them through the stores I managed. Let’s get into it.
They make great pet fish for first-time fishkeepers and the best part is you can keep one in a tank of just 5 gallons or more. The male fish are very aggressive towards other betta fish, so you should never keep more than one in the same tank.
Mark’s Top Pick
If I had to pick one fish that consistently delivers for a beginner community tank, it’s the betta. Not because they’re easy to neglect, but because a single male betta in the right setup is the most visually stunning freshwater fish per gallon you can own. I’ve had bettas that recognized me at feeding time. They have real personality, they don’t need a school, and they thrive in smaller tanks that suit most beginners. Just don’t put two males together. Ever.
2. Angelfish
Altum Angelfish in Planted Tank” class=”wp-image-551860″/>
Scientific Name: Pterophyllum scalare
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle/top
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Water Temperature: 78 – 84°F
pH: 6.8 – 7.8
Freshwater angelfish are tropical fish from the cichlid family. These unique freshwater aquarium fish have huge fins on their belly and their back, often making them taller than they are long!
There are many amazing types of angel fish to choose from, and they are great community fish with other peaceful species like tetras and cory catfish.
3. Goldfish
Scientific Name: Carassius auratus
Care Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: All Levels
Origin: East Asia
Adult Size: 6-12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 – 40 gallons
Water Temperature: 65 – 72°F
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
The goldfish is a mainstay of the aquarium hobby. These popular freshwater aquarium fish have been kept for centuries and are available in many weird and wonderful breeds.
Goldfish are not ideal fish for beginners, however. They prefer their water cool and they eat plants, so they aren’t the best choice for planted tanks or tropical fish communities.
Nevertheless, the goldfish is still one of the most beautiful freshwater fish in the world, and they make a wonderful and long-lived pet fish.
4. Discus
Scientific Name: Symphysodon discus
Care Level: Intermediate-advanced
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 5-8 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 70 gallons
Water Temperature: 82 – 86°F
pH: 6 – 7
The discus is a truly gorgeous fish species that you just can’t walk past without admiring. These South American cichlids have some of the most incredible colors and patterns, but they are not ideal for beginner fish keepers.
Discus fish prefer warmer water than most other species, so mixing them with other fish in a community tank can be tricky. These large fish also need perfect water quality and a nice big aquarium to stay healthy.
5. Guppy
Scientific Name: Poecilia reticulata
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: All levels
Origin: Northeast South America
Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Water Temperature: 72 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8
Guppies are the perfect fish for beginner fish keepers. They are easy to find and come in a huge range of amazing colors, patterns, and fin types.
They are live-bearing fish that breed freely in the aquarium, so don’t be surprised if you spot some baby fish in your freshwater tank after a little while! Guppies are very hardy fish and they thrive in water with a slightly higher pH.
6. Molly
Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops, P. latipinna, etc.
Care Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Middle
Origin: North & South America
Adult Size: 3 – 5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Water Temperature: 70 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8.5
Mollies are another great beginner fish for freshwater aquariums. There are a few different species, although the balloon and sailfin mollies tend to be the most popular choices.
Molly fish are from the same family as the guppy fish, so they’re also really easy to breed in the home aquarium. These interesting fish can even live in saltwater, but they do great in freshwater tanks of 30 gallons or more.
7. Swordtails
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: All levels
Origin: Central America
Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Water Temperature: 61 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8
Swordtails are livebearers, just like guppies and molly fish. The male fish are identified by their amazing sword-like tails, but the female fish can also be very colorful.
Swordtails come in some awesome colors, including bright orange and even koi patterns. They are very easy to breed and get along peacefully with many other tropical fish species.
8. Platy
Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: All levels
Origin: Mexico & Central America
Adult Size: 2 -3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Water Temperature: 68 – 79°F
pH: 7- 8.2
Platy fish are very similar to swordtails but do not have the same long tail. They are also a little smaller which means you can keep them in a freshwater tank of just 15 gallons or so.
Platy fish are available in many different breeds like the sunset and the wagtail platy. Many of them have an orange body that adds a bold splash of color to any freshwater aquarium.
9. African Cichlids
Scientific Name: Aulonocara, Pseudotropheus, Haplochromis, etc.
Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive – aggressive
Swimming Level: Middle/ Bottom
Origin: African Rift Lakes
Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
pH: 7.8 – 8.4
African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish in the hobby. There is an amazing variety of different species in this group, but they generally require specialized care and are not suitable for most tropical community tanks.
African cichlids tend to be aggressive and territorial. They need a fairly large aquarium and high-pH water to thrive. Don’t let that put you off though, these are the perfect fish for more experienced fishkeepers who want a show-stopping aquarium full of life and activity!
10. New World Cichlids
Scientific Name: Astronotus, Amatitlania, Rocio, etc.
Care Level: Easy – Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive – Aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom and middle
Origin: North & South America
Adult Size: 6 – 12 + inches
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Water Temperature:75 – 80°F
pH: 6.5 – 8
The New World cichlids are similar to African cichlids but are native to America. They range from small to very large and can be peaceful or highly aggressive fish depending on the species. Jack Dempsey fish, Firemouths, Oscars, and convict cichlids are all popular examples of new world cichlids.
Whether you are just starting out, or you’ve been keeping freshwater fish for a lifetime, there is a New World cichlid for you. As always, just be sure to research the specific needs of any fish before taking it home.
11. Dwarf Cichlids
Scientific Name: Apistogramma, Mikrogeophagus, etc.
Care Level: Easy to Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful- semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: Africa & South America
Adult Size: 2.5 + inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10+ gallons
Water Temperature: 72 – 86°F
pH: 5 – 8 depending on the species
Dwarf cichlids are the little cousins of the African and New World cichlids. These small, colorful freshwater fish tend to be relatively peaceful and can make great additions to many community aquariums.
The Arowana is a large and impressive freshwater fish that is only suitable for expert fish keepers with plenty of space for a huge aquarium. These beautiful silvery fish can grow to 3 feet in length and need an aquarium of at least 250 gallons when fully grown.
Arowana fish are carnivores, so they need a high-protein diet such as feeder fish, insects, and other meaty foods. They can do well in community tanks if kept with other more aggressive fish that are too big to swallow.
13. Tetras
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Scientific Name: Paracheirodon, Hyphessobrycon, Gymnocorymbus, etc.
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Middle
Origin: South America, Africa
Adult Size: 0.75 – 3 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
Water Temperature: 75 – 80°F
pH: 6.8 – 7.8
Tetras are the perfect choice for a tropical community aquarium. These small, schooling fish come in every color of the rainbow and are generally very easy to care for. Most tetras come from South America1, but some species, like the Congo tetra, are from Africa.
Choose colorful species like the ember and cardinal tetra to brighten up your aquarium, or go for serpae or black phantoms if you want fish with a more interesting shape.
14. Barb
Scientific Name: Barbus, Puntius etc.
Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Middle
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 2 – 13 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 100 + gallons
Water Temperature: 75 – 80°F
pH: 6.8 – 7.8
Barbs are another great option for fish keepers who want active, schooling fish for a community aquarium. Most species stay between 2 and 3 inches, but some like the tinfoil barb can grow very large.
Most barbs are very peaceful fish, but the tiger barb has earned a reputation for being a fin nipper. Barbs are schooling fish that should be kept in groups of 6 or more.
15. Rasboras
Scientific Name: Trigonostigma, Celestichthys, Boraras etc.
Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 0.75 – 1.75 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
Water Temperature:68 – 82°F
pH: 5 – 8, depending on the species
Rasboras are nano (very small) fish from the same family as barbs and goldfish. These peaceful schooling fish are perfect for a tropical community in a heavily planted aquarium where they tend to hang out in the middle level.
These social fish should not be kept in groups of less than 5, so make sure you pick up a nice big school of the same species to see them behaving confidently.
16. Gouramis
Scientific Name: Trichogaster, Trichopsis, Trichopodus etc.
Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful/ Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 1.5 – 28 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Water Temperature: 68-86°F (depending on species)
pH: 5.5 – 8
Gouramis are wonderful aquarium fish that come in many different shapes and sizes. Nano species like the sparkling gourami can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, while the impressive giant gourami needs about 250 gallons when it is fully grown.
Most gouramis are very peaceful fish that do best when kept in a pair. They are a great choice for a heavily planted tank with other small community fish.
17. Killifish
Scientific Name: Aplocheilus, Jordanella, Fundulopanchax, etc.
Care Level: Easy – Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
Swimming Level: All levels
Origin: Africa, Asia, America
Adult Size: 1.5 – 5.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 20 gallons
Water Temperature: 68 – 75°F
pH: 6 – 7
Killifish are great nano fish that come in some amazing colors. These fish are not very common in the aquarium trade but they are a great choice for fishkeepers looking for something a little different.
Some killifish species are very shortlived because they live in temporary pools that evaporate in the dry season. Others can live for multiple years, however.
18. Danios
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Scientific Name: Celestichthys, Danio, Brachydanio, etc.
Care Level: Easy – intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Upper levels
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
Water Temperature: 65 – 75°F
pH: 7 – 7.8
Danios are small Asian schooling fish that are great for community tanks. Some, like zebra danios, are very hardy and make an ideal choice for beginner fish keepers.
Danios tend to be very active swimmers, and they can add a lot of movement to your aquarium. They are very social fish, so they need to be kept in a school of at least 6 of their own kind.
19. Rainbow
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Scientific Name: Marosatherina, Melanotaenia, Pseudomugil etc.
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Middle/Top
Origin: Australia, Indonesia
Adult Size: 2 – 6 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 55 gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 82°F
pH: 7 – 8
Rainbowfish are beautiful freshwater fish from Australia and Southeast Asia. They get their name from their awesome colors, which are especially bright when the fish are spawning. They are active fish that need a fairly large aquarium.
Rainbowfish have a very peaceful nature and fit in well with most other community fish. They are social creatures, however, so keep them in a shoal of 6 or more.
20. Freshwater Puffers
Scientific Name: Carinotetraodon, Tetraodon etc.
Care Level: Intermediate – Advanced
Temperament: Semi-aggressive/ Aggressive
Swimming Level: All levels
Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
Adult Size: 1 – 24 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 5 – 125 + gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 78°F
pH: 7 – 7.6
Freshwater puffers are some of the most fascinating fish in the aquarium hobby. These funny-looking fish are known for their ability to puff up into a ball when threatened by a predator.
Freshwater pufferfish range in size from nano species like the 1-inch dwarf pea puffer, all the way to 2-foot giants like the Mbu puffer.
Pufferfish are not very active, so the smallest species can be kept in tanks of just 5 gallons or so. Puffers have very sharp parrot-like teeth, however, and they can be aggressive toward other fish. These fish usually work best in a species-only tank.
21. Hatchetfish
Scientific Name: Carnegiella, Gasteropelecus, etc.
Care Level: Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Top
Origin: Central & South America
Adult Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
Water Temperature: 75 – 80°F
pH: 6 – 7
Hatchetfish are unusual, flattened nano fish that spend their time near the surface of the aquarium. These schooling fish have long pectoral fins and huge muscles in their chests that they use to leap out of the water to escape their predators.
Hatchetfish are wonderful freshwater fish for tropical community tanks. However, their acrobatic abilities mean they need to be kept in a tank with a tight fighting lid and great care is necessary when performing aquarium maintenance.
22. Freshwater Sharks
Scientific Name: Epalzeorhynchos, Balantiocheilos, etc.
Care Level: Easy – Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
Origin: Southeast Asia & South America
Adult Size: 5 inches – 3 feet +
Minimum Tank Size: 65 – 150 + gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 80°F
pH: 6.8 – 8
Freshwater sharks are not true sharks, but they do have a very similar shape. These medium to large aquarium fish are available in some bold colors, including black, red, and silver.
The rainbow shark is probably the most popular species. This fish has bright red fins and a potentially aggressive nature. Rainbow sharks are also available in some amazing neon colors for fish keepers who want an awesome display fish.
23. Freshwater Eels
Scientific Name: Mastacembelus, Macrognathus, etc.
Care Level: Easy- Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: Southeast Asia, Africa
Adult Size: 8 inches to several feet
Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
Water Temperature: 72 – 82°F
pH: 6 – 7
Freshwater eels are probably not the first fish that comes to mind when planning a fish tank, but there are many amazing types that you can keep in your aquarium. Some species like the tire-track eel and fire eel even have beautiful patterns and colors.
These fish need a secure lid to keep them from escaping. They are generally shy and nocturnal, so make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces and keep the lights fairly dim if you want to see them active.
24. Freshwater Gobies
Scientific Name: Stiphodon, Brachygobius, Gobioides, etc.
Care Level: Easy- Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: Africa, Asia, Americas
Adult Size: 2 – 15 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 10 – 50+ gallons
Water Temperature: 72 – 84°F
pH: 7.5 – 8.5
Freshwater gobies come in a range of shapes and sizes. These fish have loads of attitude and interesting behavior which makes them fascinating creatures to observe in the home aquarium.
They range from specialist algae eaters to carnivores and can be peaceful community fish or aggressive fish eaters. Many of the freshwater gobies sold in the hobby actually need brackish water to thrive, so make sure you research these fish carefully before adding them to your tank.
25. Cory Catfish
Scientific Name: Corydoras spp.
Care Level: Easy
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 1 – 4 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 15 – 3o gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 80°F
pH: 7 – 8
Cory catfish are an excellent choice for beginner fish keepers. These small, bottom-dwelling catfish deserve a place in any peaceful community aquarium. They get along with most other fish so they are ideal for a freshwater community tank.
Corydoras catfish stay small and love to hang out at the bottom of the tank, digging through the substrate to look for food. They are schooling fish, so keep them in a group of 4 or more to see them at their confident best.
26. Loaches
Scientific Name: Pangio, Botia, Sewellia, etc.
Care Level: Easy – Intermediate
Temperament: Peaceful
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: Asia
Adult Size: 1- 12 inches
Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
Water Temperature: 64 – 86°F (depending on species)
pH: 6 – 7.5
Loaches are another favorite fish in the aquarium hobby. These goofy bottom-dwellers are pretty diverse, ranging from the small, eel-like kuhli loach to the large, shark-shaped clown loach. Loaches make great clean-up fishes, and they tend to be very peaceful in community tanks.
Loaches are well-known for their snail-killing abilities, so this is one fish to avoid if you enjoy keeping inverts!
27. Plecos
Scientific Name: Ancistrus, Panaque, Hypostomus, etc.
Care Level: Easy-Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – Semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 2 inches – 2 feet
Minimum Tank Size: 30+ gallons
Water Temperature: 74 – 80°F
pH: 7 – 8
Plecos are also known as suckermouth catfish. These fish are built like tanks, with tough scales for armor and large shark-like fins. Most species have natural colors which they use for camouflage on the river bottom, although some have bold, striped and spotted markings.
There are over 500 varieties of plecos in the aquarium hobby, ranging from small and beginner-friendly to expert-only, so you can bet there’s a perfect pleco for you!
28. Catfish
Scientific Name: Pimelodus, Synodontis, Kryptopterus, etc.
Care Level: Easy – Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – Aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom/ Middle
Origin: South America, Asia, Africa
Adult Size: 2 inches – several feet
Minimum Tank Size: 20+ gallons
Water Temperature: 72 – 82°F
pH: 6.5 – 7.5
There are over 3000 known freshwater catfish species in the world, and many of them make great aquarium subjects! These whiskered bottom dwellers come in many shapes and sizes, from 1-inch corydoras to man-sized predators from murky waters.
The larger catfish are usually carnivorous species that eat other fish. This means you need to be pretty careful about choosing smaller fish as tankmates, or you’ll start to notice them disappear!
Popular aquarium species include the synodontis and Pictus catfish, as well as the cories and plecos mentioned above in this post. Many of the catfish sold in aquarium stores grow way too big for most home aquariums, so make sure you research their adult size before taking them home.
29. Freshwater Stingrays
Scientific Name: Potamotrygon spp.
Care Level: Advanced
Temperament: Peaceful – semi-aggressive
Swimming Level: Bottom
Origin: South America
Adult Size: 1 foot +
Minimum Tank Size: 200+ gallons
Water Temperature: 75 – 82°F
pH: 6.8 – 7.6
Freshwater stingrays are awesome pets for experienced fish keepers with plenty of space. These flat members of the shark family need an extra large tank or a shallow indoor pond to provide the space they need. Stingrays are potentially dangerous animals, although injuries are rare.
The smallest freshwater stingrays are about a foot across, but some species reach truly gigantic proportions! These fish also need excellent water quality and quality filtration, so they are best left to the experts.
Freshwater aquarium shrimp are a great addition to small tanks and aquascapes. Peaceful, full of personality, and colorful. Many varieties are available.
Ok, so freshwater shrimp are not technically fish, but they are still some of the coolest animals you can keep in a fish tank! These fascinating crustaceans come in all sorts of colors and breeds.
Freshwater shrimp do best in a tank with plenty of aquatic plants just like their natural habitat, and they can be kept with some small freshwater aquarium fish species. However, most fish will eat freshwater shrimp, so choose their tankmates carefully.
What Most “Best Fish” Lists Get Wrong
Recommending fish based on appearance without mentioning compatibility. A beautiful fish that terrorizes your community is a bad choice, period.
Ignoring adult size. Listing a tinfoil barb or common pleco as “beginner friendly” when they grow to 12+ inches and need massive tanks is irresponsible advice.
Not mentioning schooling requirements. A single neon tetra is not happy. It’s stressed. You need at least 6, ideally 10+.
Skipping the cycled tank requirement. Adding fish to a brand-new tank before it’s cycled is the fastest way to lose them. Most lists pretend this is not a factor.
FAQs
What Is The Most Popular?
The goldfish is the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. These awesome cool-water fish have a rich history in the fish-keeping hobby, dating back centuries. Today they are as popular as ever and they come in a jaw-dropping variety of shapes, colors, and fin types.
Are There Tropical Freshwater?
Most freshwater aquarium fish are tropical species for good reason. The tropical regions of the world have the greatest diversity of fish, as well as the most exotic and colorful species.
What’s The Difference Between Both?
Tropical fish are the species that come from areas near the equator where it is always warm. There are tropical saltwater and freshwater fish. Tropical freshwater fish are very popular aquarium fish, they just need a heater to keep the water warm.
Which Is The Easiest To Take Care Of?
Guppies are probably the easiest fish to care for. These hardy fish do not have any special care requirements and they get along great with other peaceful community fish.
How Long Do They Live In A Home Aquarium?
Freshwater fish have different lifespans depending on their species and the quality of life you give them. Some African Killifish never live more than a year because they have evolved to complete their life cycle in temporary waterholes. Others, like the goldfish, can live for over 15 years with good care.
Final Thoughts
The best freshwater aquarium is not the one with the most exotic fish. It’s the one where everything works together, the fish are healthy, and you actually enjoy watching it.
Every fish on this list earns its place. Some are here because they’re nearly impossible to kill and look great doing it. Some are here because they add something to a community that nothing else replicates. And a few are here as an honest heads-up: great fish, but only if your setup is ready for them.
Use this list as a starting point, not a shopping cart. Research the specific fish you’re interested in, check your tank size and parameters, and build your community with intention rather than impulse. That’s what separates a tank that crashes in three months from one that’s still running five years later.
Match the fish to the tank you have. That’s the rule. Everything else is details.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
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