Author: Mark Valderrama

Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect — outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

Introduction To Goldfish

Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

1. Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.
   
   However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.
   
   It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
2. Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
3. Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
4. Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
5. Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

Introduction To Breeding

Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

How To Breed Them

The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

Aquarium Setup

In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54° F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74° F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

Editor’s Choice

Hikari Bacto Surge Sponge Filter

The Best Sponge Filter

With a name brand and high quality reputation, the Bacto Surge separates itself from the pack

Buy On Chewy Buy On Amazon

Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

Java Moss

One of the easiest mosses to grow in an aquarium. Great for small fish and shrimp

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Spawning

Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

Raising The Fry

Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

Conclusion

Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Red devil cichlids earn their name. They’re large, bold, and genuinely aggressive — and in 25+ years I’ve seen plenty of them rehomed by people who underestimated just how much personality (and destruction) one fish can bring to a tank. That’s not a knock against the species. It just means they’re a commitment, not an afterthought.

If you want a fish that will recognize you through the glass, interact with you at feeding time, and completely own its environment — a red devil is hard to beat. But you need to go in knowing this is essentially a single-specimen setup. Tank mates require very careful selection, and the tank itself needs to be built around this fish. Here’s everything you need to know.

Fish Species Overview

Origins

The red devil cichlid is native to Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua, two large freshwater lakes in the Central American country of Nicaragua. These Nicaraguan lakes provide naturally warm waters throughout the year.

These feisty fish have been introduced to a few places in the world, and wild populations exist in Florida and Hawaii today.

Appearance

The red devil cichlid is a large, attractive freshwater fish that comes in a range of colors. Wild fish are often gray or dark brown but specimens in the aquarium trade stand out with white, yellow, orange, and even bright red shades.

They may be a single color or a combination, with many fish having attractive spots and patterns. Many specimens change color as they mature, so a full-grown adult may look quite different from when you first bought it.

Male red devil fish are larger than females and develop a pronounced bump (nuchal hump) above their heads. Red devils are characterized by their large, thick lips, although this feature is much more pronounced in wild-caught fish.

Red devil cichlids have large dorsal and anal fins that end in a sharp point, sometimes extending to the end of their fan-shaped tails.

The red devil cichlid is easily confused with another popular Central American species known as the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus). However, the red devil grows larger and tends to have thicker lips.

How Big Can They Get?

The red devil cichlid is a large, heavily built fish. Adults can measure 12 to 15 inches when fully grown, and males are the larger sex.

Red devil cichlids are often sold at just an inch or two, but they grow to reach adult size in just three years or so.

How Long Do They Live?

The red devil cichlid can live for over ten years with good care. Their average lifespan is about 10 to 12 years, making them a similar commitment to the average dog.

These fish will live longest if given plenty of tank space, high water quality, and a healthy, balanced diet.

What Do They Eat?

Feeding your red devil cichlid is one of the easiest aspects of its care. These true omnivores eat insect larvae, snails, small fish, and plant material in nature.

Captive specimens are not fussy, and high-quality cichlid pellets are the best option for their daily needs, although young red devil cichlids will eagerly accept tropical fish flakes.

Great Balanced Food

Ron's Cichlid Food

Ron is an African Cichlid breeder with over 25 years in experience who created a line of food that is well balanced. A great option when you can’t use frozen foods.

Buy On Amazon

Supplement the red devil cichlid diet with the following foods to improve their general condition:

• Brine shrimp
• Bloodworms
• Peas
• Lettuce
• Spinach

Live Foods

Live foods provide a great natural source of nutrition for your red devil cichlid. These fish regularly hunt live prey in nature, so they certainly have that killer instinct. Live foods like earthworms, crickets, and cockroaches are great choices.

How Often and How Much to Feed them

Feed your red devil cichlid at least twice each day, providing only as much food as your fish will eat. Remove any uneaten food before it spoils in your tank water.

Red devil cichlids can be very excitable around mealtimes, and they will often crash into the hood of your aquarium when taking food from the surface. Make sure your lid is securely fitted and solidly built.

Weigh down lightweight hoods to keep them securely in place, and take care when feeding these fish, as an accidental bite could be pretty painful.

Temperament and Behavior

The red devil cichlid is an aggressive fish, and they aren’t called devils for nothing! However, these colorful cichlids usually make wonderful pets that love to interact with their owners.

Nevertheless, many specimens will bite the hand that feeds them, and larger fish can easily draw blood. In extreme cases, you may need to use a divider to keep your fish to one side when performing tank maintenance.

Red devils are not fish you can add to a community aquarium. These guys need careful planning and a tank that is designed around their needs. However, it is possible to keep them with some other fish types.

Continue reading to learn about the best red devil cichlid tank mates.

Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates

Choosing tank mates for your red devil cichlid is challenging because these fish are just so aggressive. It is best to keep them in a species-only tank because they have such great personalities that you don’t need any others.

Nevertheless, multi-fish tanks are possible, but you should always have a plan B in case things don’t work out. Keeping your red devil cichlid with other fish will require an enormous aquarium, so consider the size and weight of a 180 + gallon aquarium before committing to this kind of setup.

Best Tank Mates For Them

It is possible to keep these fish with other red devil cichlids when they are young, but they will become increasingly aggressive as they mature. Introducing all the tank mates when they are young is the best chance of creating a harmonious fish tank, but there are no guarantees when it comes to the red devil.

Some freshwater fish have lived side by side with the red devil cichlid. Plecos are one of them, although these bottom feeders may become strictly nocturnal to stay out of the red devil’s way.

Other possible options are large cichlids like Jack Dempseys, Texas, Midas, and jaguar cichlids, but again, having a spare tank is important if things go wrong.

Least Compatible Fish For Them

Most fish will not get along with the red devil cichlid. Smaller fish may be eaten, while others may be attacked and killed.

Red devil cichlids become particularly aggressive when breeding. They will kill any other fish in their tank during this time.

Care

Red devil cichlids are not ideal for beginner aquarists. That being said, their care is relatively straightforward for more experienced fishkeepers, especially if you start out with the right tank setup.

Read on to learn more about red devil cichlid care, their tank size, and setup needs.

Tank Requirements

The red devil cichlid needs a large aquarium with stable decorations, a secure hood, and a fine sand substrate. Keep reading for more information.

Tank Size

Red devil cichlids are large fish that need plenty of room. You can start out with a 55-gallon tank, but a 75-gallon setup will be best for a single fish in the long run. You could also keep a pair in this size tank, but stepping up to a larger size is a better bet.

Setup

Keeping red devil cichlids is all about the fish, so don’t design a complicated aquascape. These fish rearrange their tank regularly, so choosing the right decor is very important.

Decor

Providing a cave or shelter is a great way to ensure your fish has a place to relax and feel secure. However, safety is a very important consideration when choosing decorations for red devil cichlids.

These fish love to dig, and they can destabilize rock piles and driftwood arrangements, causing them to collapse. This could cause injury to your fish or even crack your aquarium!

Avoid placing decorations on top of deep sand. If you don’t want to make a rock arrangement for your fish, secure each component with an aquarium and fish-safe epoxy.

Substrate

A fine sand substrate is ideal because it will allow your fish to dig without scratching or injuring themselves.

Live Plants

Red devil cichlids are not recommended for a planted aquarium because they are notorious for tearing up all sorts of aquatic plants.

Water Quality And Filtration

Maintaining high water quality is essential in any aquarium; your red devil tank is no exception.

Filtration & Aeration

Powerful filtration is vital when keeping these large and messy fish. Red devils can be very hard on aquarium equipment like filters and heaters, so external hardware is often the best choice. Canister filters with integrated heaters (or you can get an in-line heater) are a great option because they limit the amount of hardware that your red devil cichlid can reach.

Great For Large Tanks

Fluval FX Series

High flow, large filtration capacity, and quality plumbing – The FX series is designed for monster fish keepers

Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

A sump system is recommended for larger tanks. Larger hang-on back and internal power filters typically do not have enough to capacity to house adult cichlids. Their activity might also damage internal filters and sponge filters.

Red devil cichlids are native to stillwater environments, so aim for moderate water movement to avoid stressing your fish. Although it’s not essential, an airstone or two will increase aeration in your red devil cichlid tank and increase the activity levels of your fish.

Water Parameters

Red devil cichlids can be kept in water with a pH of 6 to 8, although right around neutral is preferred. Ideal temperatures range from about 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and they will thrive in water hardness of 6 to 25 dGH.

Aquarium Maintenance

Regular aquarium maintenance is essential for keeping your red devil cichlid tank looking great and keeping your fish in excellent health.

Perform a 25-30% water change on your aquarium each week to reduce the build-up of nitrates in your water. This is also a great time to clean up your glass, vacuum up waste from the substrate, and perform any maintenance on your equipment.

Testing Tank Conditions

The only way to really know what’s going on in your water chemistry is to test regularly. Red devil cichlids can survive in a reasonable range of water parameters, but you should strive to maintain stable conditions in your tank.

Editor’s Choice – Freshwater

API Freshwater Master Test Kit

Best Aquarium Test Kit For Freshwater

With all the essentials and accurate testing, this test kit is the best one to get you started

Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

Pick up a test kit that can monitor the following important parameters:

• Nitrates (NO3)
• Nitrites (NO2)
• Ammonia (NH3 & NH4+)
• pH
• GH
• KH

Breeding

Breeding red devil cichlids is relatively easy – just make sure you’ll be able to find homes for all the young freshwater fish before you start!

Sexing

The first step toward breeding red devil cichlids is to acquire a breeding pair. Fortunately, adult red devil cichlids are relatively easy to sex. The male red devil cichlid is bigger (up to 15 inches) and has a bigger nuchal hump. Females max out at about 10 inches and have a lighter build and a flatter forehead.

However, forming a pair is easier said than done since males can kill females if they don’t hit it off. Growing out a few young red devils in a large tank and allowing a pair to form naturally is one safe technique, but the other fish will need to be removed for their safety.

These fish can reach spawning age when they are about 6 inches long if healthy and well-conditioned.

Conditioning

Your fish should be in excellent condition before starting your breeding project. Pay extra attention to their water quality through frequent maintenance and provide plenty of live and frozen foods.

Raising the tank temperature to 75 – 78 degrees, Fahrenheit can trigger spawning since this replicates the natural temperature increase in their breeding season.

The Breeding Process

Red devil cichlids usually spawn on hard, level surfaces like a flat rock, or the walls or ceiling of a cave. The female will lay hundreds of eggs which the male then fertilizes.

The fertilized eggs will begin to hatch after about three days and will be closely guarded by the adult fish. After hatching, the young fry will be moved to a hole in the substrate and become free swimming within another week or so.

Males can become aggressive toward female red devil cichlids at this point, so make sure you include a few secure hiding places and caves that are too small to fit the male. A divider is necessary in some cases.

Caring for Fry

Red devils are large fish, and you can expect a lot of babies after a successful spawn. Be prepared to see 300 to 800 red devil cichlid fry! The fry gets all the nutrients they need from their yolk sac, but they will require food after their fourth or fifth day.

Baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes are great starter foods for these fish. You can feed the fry directly using a turkey baster or a large syringe with some airline tubing.

The adult fish (video source) are usually very protective over their fry, although you can move the baby fish to their own tank to avoid any chance of them being eaten by their parents. Move the female to her own tank, if you choose to separate the fry as this can trigger extra aggression from the male.

Health And Disease

Red devil cichlids are not particularly prone to health problems, and they tend to be relatively trouble-free if maintained in good conditions. Like any fish species, they are most likely to develop problems when stressed by poor water quality, inappropriate food, or conflict with other fish.

Evaluating their Health

The best way to monitor your fish’s health is to observe their physical appearance and behavior. Make the time to watch your fish for a few minutes in the morning and evening each day, and pay attention to any noticeable changes.

Healthy fish have vibrant colors, complete fins that are not held clamped against the body, and a healthy appearance without sores or wounds.

Buoyancy issues like floating or sinking are something to watch out for, as well as low activity levels and a lack of appetite.

Common Health Issues

Red devil cichlids can contract various illnesses that commonly affect freshwater fish species. Consult your veterinarian for more information on treating illnesses in your fish.

• Ich

Ich or white spot disease is one of the most common illnesses that affect freshwater fish, and it is serious if left untreated. This parasitic infection is caused by protozoa and often flares up in stressed fish.

Ich can be treated with aquarium salt, heat treatments, or specially formulated medications like ich-X.

• Fungal infections

Fungal infections can cause fluffy growths on your fish’s skin, gills, and fins. This form of illness often arises from poor water conditions, so a targeted treatment with antifungal medication and better aquarium hygiene are recommended for the best results.

• Physical injuries from fighting

Red devil cichlids have an aggressive nature, and they are often kept with other aggressive freshwater fish. Fights happen, and these powerful cichlids can easily damage each other with their powerful jaws and sharp teeth.

It’s very important to have a spare fish tank available if you keep red devil cichlids with other fish, even of the same species. Separate your fish immediately if you see signs of serious aggression and treat their wounds when necessary.

• Bacterial infections

Fish are susceptible to many bacterial infections, particularly when injured or kept in poor water quality conditions. These infections can be treated with antibiotics, available online, from aquarium stores, or from your local veterinarian.

Where To Buy

Red devil cichlids are very affordable if bought young. You can find these aggressive cichlid species online or at many aquarium stores. Unfortunately, red devils often hybridize with other cichlid species like Midas and Texas, so buy from a reputable breeder to be sure your fish are purebred.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

The red devil cichlid is not for everyone. However, If you want a feisty, aggressive, and exciting pet that loves to interact, it might be the perfect option for you! Just make sure you read through this guide carefully before adopting one of these amazing cichlids from Central America.

Do you keep red devil cichlids? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

Hatchetfish are one of those species I recommend to anyone building a community tank who wants something that genuinely fills the top of the water column. That deep keel shape is unlike anything else in the hobby, and watching them dart across the surface is something that always gets noticed. They’re a great pairing with mid- and bottom-dwelling species since they stay entirely at the top.

One thing I always tell people upfront: these fish jump. They’re surface dwellers by nature, and any gap in your lid is an escape route. I’ve heard way too many stories about hatchetfish found dried on the floor. A tight-fitting lid is non-negotiable. They’re also more sensitive to water quality than their care ratings often suggest — stable parameters matter more with this species than most. Here’s everything you need to know.

An Overview Of The Fish Species

Origin And Habitat

Linnaeus in 1758 discovered the common hatchetfish; Gasteropelecus sternicla species. They originate in South America in Brazil and mainly in south and central America (Southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin). Common hatchetfish are also found in the small streams of Guyana and Surinam with dense vegetation (floating aquatic plants). 

In their natural habitat, they are found in regions that are densely populated with aquatic plants. In the wild, the common hatchetfish are mostly found at the water surface and retreat occasionally when threatened or in danger. Mostly, you will find these fish species flying from the surface of the water, trying to catch flying insects.

Fun Fact: Certain hatchetfish species participate in the largest migration in the world, migrating from 1,500 meters (about 5,000 feet) of depth to shallower seas. They gather with their twilight zone neighbors in the shadows to eat at the zooplankton feast, where they consume crustaceans, copepods, floating fish larvae, mosquito larvae, and ostracods. But as soon as the sun comes up, it's time to head back to the twilight zone. The hatchetfish has no control over when the axe will fall.

The Definition Of Hatchetfish 

The common hatchetfish species go by their scientific name, Gasteropelecus sternicla. They are known for their unique but strange-looking body that looks like the head of the hatchet. Hence, the term Gasteropelecus in their scientific name also refers to a hatched-shaped belly. 

One of the leading reasons for their popularity is not their particular body shape, but their ability to leap from the water’s surface and fly through the air. River hatchetfish or common hatchetfish can also flap their large pectoral fins and catch flying insects. Thus, in the fish-keeping world, the hatchetfish bag the title of the only true flying fish. 

Species of hatchetfish are able to fly more than 4 feet and move their pectoral fins like a bird’s wings in the air. As astounding as it sounds, the flying power of hatchetfish is a problem in hatchetfish aquariums as this ability also develops the need for a tight-fitting lid.

Characteristics 

The common hatchetfish are small, shiny silverfish with a hatchet-shaped bodies. They are tropical fish found in mostly warm temperature regions at a depth of around 200 to 1000 meters.

Hatchetfish have deep bodies that are flattened from side to side. The tails are slender with big eyes. The common hatchetfish are often mistaken as their cousin relative, the silver hatchetfish. However, the common hatchetfish species are slightly larger than the Silver hatchetfish.

What Is The Average Size Of These Tropical Fish Species?

The average size of Hatchetfish is around 2.6 inches in captivity. However, the wild-caught fish is a bit smaller in size, around 1 1/2 inches. 

How Long Do They Live?

On average, hatchetfish lives for about 3 to 5 years in captivity. Since they are social and peaceful fish, it is recommended to keep a group of 8 or more fish to improve their life quality. 

What Are The Different Types?

There are five different species of hatchetfish found in the aquarium hobby.

Silver

The most common type of Hatchetfish is the silver hatchetfish. They have silver bodies that seem almost transparent and a unique ‘hatchet-like’ body shape. The silver hatchetfish are great swimmers and are known for their ability to jump out of the aquarium. Therefore, always choose a tight-fitting lid for your aquarium. 

Blackwing 

The Blackwing hatchetfish are larger than the other species of hatchetfish. They grow around 3 inches in length with darker bodies adorned with metallic green or blue hues on the fins. Temperament-wise, they are semi-aggressive fish but generally peaceful fish, ideal for a community tank.

Marbled

The marbled hatchetfish are somewhat similar in appearance to the popular silver hatchetfish. However, they have smaller bodies and marble-like mottled coloration on their bodies. Marbled hatchetfish are schooling fish that enjoys the company of other species of hatchetfish. Thus, I advise keeping a group of 8 or more to keep your fish healthy and thriving. 

Carnation

Carnation hatchetfish are the species that experienced fishkeepers would enjoy. That’s because they are sensitive to water quality and conditions, so little attention is required. Size-wise, they are a smaller species with a pink or peach-colored body. 

Pygmy

The smallest species of hatchetfish are the pygmy hatchetfish (video source). They grow only up to 1 inch in length. Also, they have silver bodies with a black stripe along their dorsal fin. 

Common Hatchetfish Care

The freshwater Hatchetfish is a particularly hardy fish. However, it is still recommended for aquarists with some previous fish-keeping experience. That’s because they are active fish and need lots of free swimming space. Also, they are highly prone to fish diseases such as Ich, especially when introduced to a new tank. 

Therefore, it is recommended to quarantine the new fish before introducing them into the community tank.

Are they hard to care for?

No, they are not difficult to keep and care for. However, you need a certain level of expertise in keeping their water conditions optimal. Species of hatchetfish are sensitive to water conditions. Therefore, a little maintenance goes a long way. It’s crucial to maintain your tank and clean all the decomposing organic matter, check water quality regularly, and clean fish waste. 

These toxins pollute the fish tank and affect the wellness of your fish. Therefore, to cater to these water conditions, I recommend replacing the water on a daily basis. If your tank is densely populated with a group of fish, at least 50% of the water should be replaced every week. 

Aquarium Setup 

The natural habitat of hatchetfish undergoes rainy season and floods. So, thankfully, they can survive in a wide range of pH, GH, and other water parameters. Hatchetfish are tropical freshwater fish that appreciates water temperature between 75–80°F. 

Since they are schooling fish, they thrive in a group of 6 to 12 or more. I recommend keeping at least 12 fish in the community tank because they feel safer and more comfortable. Though hatchetfish are active fish, but not exceptional. 

Therefore, the minimum tank size should be 20 gallons or larger. Regardless of the tank size, install a tight-fitting lid or hood because you will find them jumping out of the aquarium often. Besides, if you have installed a filter, heater, or pumps, you are sure to cover any openings with aquarium-safe materials such as craft mesh, etc.

Tank Size

Hatchetfish are not super active fish but they do require free swimming space, considering the fact that they thrive in a community of at least six fish. 

The minimum tank size should be 20 gallons. I recommend a long tank with sufficient surface space as they tend to jump out of the water. 

Aqueon 20 Gallon Tank

A classic 20 gallon aquarium in its 30 inch long variant. A very popular aquarium.

Buy On Petco Buy On Amazon

Water Parameters

Even though hatchetfish are moderately hardy aquarium fish. There are specific water parameters to maintain for them to thrive in your aquarium. 

• The ideal water temperature should be between 75–80°F. 
• Hatchetfish prefers slightly acidic water with a pH between 6.0 to 7.5 and it’s crucial to maintain the ideal pH range because changes in pH lead to stressful behavior in the fish.
• They thrive in slightly hard water so the water hardness should be between 2 – 15 dGH.
• Ammonia and nitrites are toxic for hatchetfish and harmful to their overall health. Therefore, install filters to avoid ammonia and nitrite buildup and test your water daily. 
• Nitrates: Hatchetfish can survive low levels of nitrates, but high levels can be detrimental to their health. Therefore, consider keeping nitrate levels as low as possible. The ideal range is less than 20 ppm.
• Water movement: Hatchetfish are slow-moving fish that mostly swims at the top of the aquarium. They prefer slow-moving water and gentle current. The use of a filter is recommended, and aeration should be minimized to keep them healthy. 

Filtration And Aeration 

Hatchetfish are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrites. Therefore, installing a quality filter is important. 

If you have a small tank of around 15 gallons, Hang-on-back filters are easy to install and maintain, and they provide excellent filtration. However, if you have a larger aquarium of around 20 gallons or more, I recommend installing canister filters as they are more powerful than HOB and ideal for larger aquariums.

For hatchetfish tanks, I advise installing sponge filters as they don’t produce strong currents and are gentle. 

No matter what type of filter you use, it’s crucial to clean and maintain them daily for efficient results.

For aeration, it’s important to avoid strong currents in the tank as they can lead to stressful behavior. The use of air stones and air pumps is recommended for tank aeration. 

Lighting

Hatchetfish occupies the surface of the water tank and does best in tanks with moderate to low lighting. Therefore, the ideal lighting for hatchetfish is moderate to low, depending on various factors, including plants, and species of hatchetfish. Low light aquarium plants are most ideal for them.

Aquatic Plants and Decorations

Aquatic plants and decorations are important for a hatchetfish tank because it provides hiding places and a fun natural environment for your fish. That’s because their natural habitat is laden with hiding places and vegetation. Also, plants improve the quality of water by absorbing excess nutrients and promoting a healthy balance of microorganisms in the water.

Some of the best aquatic plants for your hatchetfish are:

1. Floating plants: Amazon Frogbit, water lettuce, Salvinia, etc.
2. Mosses: Java Moss, Christmas Moss, etc
3. Other plants: Java Fern, Anubias, Cryptocoryne, etc.

For decorations, it is recommended to add driftwood, rocks, and stones to create a natural environment for your fish. 

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

Tank Maintenance

Freshwater hatchetfish are simple to keep and take care of. To maintain their water in the best possible condition, you need to have a particular level of competence. Because hatchetfish species are sensitive to water quality, a little upkeep may go a long way. Maintaining your tank is essential, as is cleaning out all of the fish waste, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate buildup. 

These chemicals contaminate the fish tank and harm your fish’s health. I advise refilling the water every day in order to address these water conditions. If you have a lot of fish in your tank, you should change the water every week by at least 50%. 

Substrate

Hatchetfish are surface dwellers. Thus, choosing a substrate for their tank is not challenging. However, you need to consider the size of the tank, and the type of plants in your aquarium before choosing the right substrate.

Fortunately, you can keep any substrate you want as long as it suffices your tank’s needs. Fine sand is the most popular option for substrate because it does no harm to your fish’s fins. Gravel and Aqua soil are also common substrate options.

Community Tank Mates 

Hatchetfish are peaceful fish that are relatively shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. Since they are schooling fish, always keep them in a group of 6 or more.

The bigger the school, the happier the fish. Some of the suitable tank mates for hatchetfish are:

1. Tetras
2. Rasboras
3. Corydoras
4. Gouramis
5. Dwarf cichlids
6. Dwarf shrimps
7. Other hatchetfish

What Do They Eat?

Hatchetfish are carnivorous fish that mostly feed on crustaceans and insects in their natural habitat. They have their mouths on the top of their bodies so they prefer eating surface foods such as fruit flies, mosquito larvae, and small vinegar flies.

In captivity, they accept live food, fish flakes, flake foods, and frozen foods. Basically, any food that is on the surface of the water. It’s recommended to feed them protein-rich food such as brine shrimp or blood worms, daphnia every day, etc. You can also feed them vegetables occasionally such as blanched spinach, zucchini, and cucumber.

Best Tropical Fish Flake Food

Cobalt Aquatics Tropical Flake

Best Tropical Fish Flake Food

Cobalt offers a premium level flake food with probiotics. A color enhancing formula that works great for all tropical fish

Buy On Amazon Buy On Chewy

What Is The Feeding Frequency? 

You should feed them several feedings a day. Ideally three times a day. However, make sure not to overfeed your hatchetfish otherwise, it will create health issues or water quality problems.

Breeding

Hatchetfish are egg layers. But in captivity, the common hatchetfish has failed to breed. However, the marbled hatchetfish are hardy and easy to breed as compared to other species.

Overall, the breeding of hatchetfish is challenging, but with the right conditions, it’s certainly possible.

Choose A Breeding Tank

Hatchetfish need a spacious tank with lots of hiding places, floating plants, and other] vegetation. Adjust the lighting to mimic daylight or use some natural sunlight to escalate the process. The breeding tank should have ideal water parameters with a pH range of around 6.0 to 7.5

Feed The Breeding Fish 

Feed your breeder fish with high-quality protein-rich food that includes live or frozen foods such as daphnia, mosquito larvae, blood worms, and brine shrimp. This will help in the breeding and spawning process. Once they are well-fed and nourished, introduce the pair into the breeding tank.

The Perfect Timing 

Hatchetfish breed in the early morning hours, therefore, mimic the natural environment of fish in the breeding tank. Gradually increase the light intensity and then reduce it in the evening to trigger the breeding behavior. 

Keep An Eye On The Floating Plants

You will find the fish eggs mostly on the underside of floating plants or on the tank glass. Remove the adult fish as soon as they lay eggs as the adult fish might end up eating eggs. The fish eggs hatch in around 3 days. The baby fish need to be fed small amounts of brine shrimp with other small live food at least thrice a day.

Fish Diseases

The hatchetfish are susceptible to Ich. Therefore, it is crucial to quarantine the new fish in a separate tank before introducing it to the community tank. However, if you don’t keep a check on water conditions, there are higher chances of your fish developing diseases.

Like most fish, these freshwater fish are subject to many other fish diseases, such as skin flukes, parasitic infections, and fungal or bacterial infections. Despite being hardy, these fish species still get diseases. Thus, whatever you add to your aquarium—new fish, tank decorations, aquatic plants, substrate, properly clean and quarantine everything before moving to the main tank.

FAQs

Final Thoughts

Hatchetfish, like their unique name, are interesting and intriguing fish with unusual bodies, shimmery scales, and peaceful nature. The fish species, despite their many different types, share similar characteristics and behavior. Hence, ideal for community tanks and a treat to watch and care for.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

🐟 This article is part of our Tetras: Complete A-Z Species Directory — your guide to every tetra species in the hobby.

Platies are one of my top recommendations for newer hobbyists — colorful, peaceful, adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, and about as forgiving as fish come. The one thing I always mention upfront: they breed. If you have males and females together, plan for fry. Platies don’t need any encouragement, and they’ll produce regularly.

That doesn’t make them harder to keep — it just means thinking ahead about tank mates and space. Here are 15 great choices that work well with platies, whether you’re building a mixed community or a dedicated livebearer setup.

Caring For Your Platies- A Brief Recap

Before you can start choosing the perfect platy fish tank mates, it’s really important to know what they need to stay healthy. So let’s start out with a quick recap on how to care for this species.

Types of Platies

There are two species of platy fish in the fish-keeping hobby, the Southern Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus) and the variable platy (X. variatus). Selective breeding has resulted in a huge variety of different breeds, including the following:

• Variegated platy
• Mickey mouse platy
• Swordtail platy
• High fin platy
• Wagtail platy
• Balloon platy

The good news is that all these fish have pretty much the same care requirements, so if you stick to the following guidelines, they should do great.

Aquarium Size & Parameters

Platy fish come from the warm waters of Mexico, Central America, and South America. These tropical fish are most at home in water temperatures of about 68 to 79 °F, so most people will need an aquarium heater to mimic their natural habitat.

These fish are pretty adaptable when it comes to water parameters, but they will do best in the following conditions:

• pH: 7 – 8.2
• Water hardness: 10-30 dGH
• Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons

Platies are a great choice for smaller tanks, with 15 gallons being the minimum size required. If you wish to keep them with other species, a 30-gallon or larger tank would be more suitable.

Budget Option

Aqueon 20 Gallon Kit

Aqueon’s 20 gallon aquarium kit offers all the basics to start off on the right foot.

Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

Maintenance

Of course, it goes without saying that Platy fish need good water quality. That means their tank needs a good quality aquarium filter and regular maintenance, including partial water changes.

If you haven’t already got one, spend a few dollars and get yourself a water test kit to monitor the water quality and parameters in your tank.

Breeding Platies

If you’ve been keeping platy fish for a while, you probably already know how easy these fish are to breed. Of course, platy fry are vulnerable to being eaten by most freshwater fish, and even their own species.

If you want to breed these fish, I’d recommend setting up a separate breeding tank. Female platies produce live, free-swimming fry, so moving the pregnant platy to a safe tank to give birth and allowing the small fish to grow safely is your best bet.

Feeding

Platy fish have a varied diet, and they are very easy to feed. Fortunately, most of the platy fish tank mates in this article will thrive on the same foods, but I’ll give you a heads-up wherever each species needs a specialized diet.

Feed your platy fish once or twice a day, and only as much as they can eat in a few minutes. A high-quality flake or micro-pellet food will work great as a daily staple, but add a small helping of live or frozen foods every few days to supplement their diet.

Top 15 Tank Mates for Platy Fish

The secret to a successful community aquarium is making sure all your fish are happy in the same environment and that they don’t fight or harass each other. We have a wonderful video just for you from our YouTube Channel. Subscribe if you enjoy the video and following along with our blog post.

Each of the recommended platy fish tank mates in this post is an excellent option, but it’s still really important to ensure that your tank setup and parameters overlap with the tank requirements of each species. Take note of the following stats to help you choose your next fish:

• Size
• Tank size
• Scientific name
• Origin
• Swimming level
• pH
• Water temperature
• School size

Now that we’ve run over the basic concepts to remember when choosing companion fish, it’s time to move on to some recommended species. Are you ready to learn about 15 awesome platy fish tank mates for your platy fish? Then let’s dive right in!

1. Molly Fish

• Size: 3-5 inches
• Tank size: 30 gallons
• Scientific name: Poecilia latpinna & P. sphenops
• Origin: North & South America
• Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
• pH: 7 – 8.5
• Water temperature: 70 – 79°F
• School size: 3+

Mollies and platies have a lot in common, and that makes them great tank mates. Like the platy, mollies come in a wide variety of color variations, and both are live-bearing fish.

Mollies are larger fish, that can reach 5 inches in length, so you’ll need a tank of at least 30 gallons to keep these hardy fish.

2. Guppy Fish

Guppy Fish

An undemanding fish that is a livebearer. Many varieties available

Click For Best Price Buy From Petco Online

• Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
• Tank size: 10 gallons
• Scientific name: Poecilia reticulata
• Origin: South America & Caribbean
• Swimming level: All levels
• pH: 7 – 8.5
• Water temperature: 64 – 82°F
• School size: 3+

Guppy fish are yet another live-bearing fish, just like mollies and platies. Guppies differ in being smaller and slimmer, but even more colorful. These peaceful fish prefer neutral to slightly alkaline water, so keep that in mind when considering them for your community tank.

There are many different breeds of guppies, but males are always the smaller and more colorful sex. Guppy fish are prolific breeders, but their fry usually get eaten by the other fish in the tank.

3. Honey Gourami

Honey Gourami

One of the more peaceful Gourami fish available in the hobby. Has a unique yellow coloration and only grows up to 2 inches in length

Click For Best Price

• Size: 2 inches
• Tank size: 10 gallons
• Scientific name: Trichogaster chuna
• Origin: India
• Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
• pH: 6 – 8
• Water temperature: 74 – 82°F
• School size: 1+

The honey gourami is a beautiful little freshwater fish that can thrive in the same tank conditions as the platyfish. These interesting relatives of the betta fish can be kept as a single specimen or in a pair.

4. Betta Fish

WYSIWYG Available!

Betta Fish

Use Coupon Code ASDFISH at Checkout

Betta Fish are one of the most beautiful varieties of freshwater fish available in the hobby. Easy to care for with plenty of varieties!

Buy Premium Varieties Buy On Petco Online

• Size: 2.5 inches
• Tank size: 5 gallons
• Scientific name: Betta splendens
• Origin: Thailand
• Swimming level: Middle & upper levels
• pH: 6 – 8
• Water temperature: 72 – 86°F
• School size: 1

Betta fish are hugely popular for their amazing looks and the fact that they can be kept in just 5 gallons or more. They are aggressive fish that are usually kept alone, but they can thrive in a community setup if they are the only betta in the tank.

If you do go this route, try choosing a betta fish that is a different color from your platies, and avoid introducing bettas if you have platy fish with long fins. The idea is to ensure your betta doesn’t think the platies are other bettas!

Add just one female or male fish and provide plenty of hiding spaces and a large tank to avoid aggression in a cramped environment.

5. Zebra Danio

• Size: 2 inches
• Tank size: 20 gallons
• Scientific name: Brachydanio rerio
• Origin: India
• Swimming level: All levels
• pH: 6 – 8
• Water temperature: 64 – 75 °F
• School size: 6

The zebra danio is an awesome community fish, and they get along great with platies! Keep these hardy fish in a school of at least 6 individuals (more is better) to enjoy their natural behaviors.

Zebra Danios are very fast and active fish so add them to a community tank of at least 20 gallons or larger.

6. Cory Catfish

• Size: 1 – 3 inches
• Tank size: 20 – 30 gallons
• Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Bottom
• pH: 7 – 8
• Water temperature: 74 – 80°F
• School size: 4+

Including a few bottom-dwellers in your platy community tank can add a whole new level of activity and interest. The corydoras catfish is an ideal choice and an amazing platy fish tank mate.

Cory catfish are small, peaceful fish that hang out in schools at the bottom of the tank. There are loads of different species, including spotted, speckled, and striped options.

Their care requirements are pretty similar, but check out each species’ needs and be sure to buy small groups of at least four specimens to enjoy their entertaining social behavior.

7. Bristlenose Plecos

Bristlenose Pleco

The Bristlenose Pleco is a smaller Pleco that does a great job of eating algae. Peaceful and gets along with most fish

Click For Best Price

• Size: 5 – 6 inches
• Tank size: 20 – 30 gallons
• Scientific name: Ancistrus sp.
• Origin: Amazon River Basin, South America
• Swimming level: Bottom
• pH: 5.5 – 7.5
• Water temperature: 73 – 80 °F
• School size: 1

The bristlenose pleco is probably the strangest species on this list, but a great choice if you want a small bottom-dweller that can help control algae in your tank.

These fish are generally peaceful, but they can fight amongst themselves if you keep more than one. Bristlenose plecos also need plenty of driftwood to graze on and hiding places to stay happy and healthy.

8. Harlequin Rasboras

Harlequin Rasbora

A peaceful schooling fish. An ideal community fish. A great beginner fish

Click For Best Price

• Size: 1.75 inches
• Tank size: 15 gallons
• Scientific name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
• Origin: Southeast Asia
• Swimming level: Upper & middle
• pH: 5 – 7.5
• Water temperature: 70 – 82°F
• School size: 8+

There are many amazing rasbora species in the aquarium hobby, but one stands out as a firm favorite for community tanks. The harlequin rasbora is a beautiful schooling fish with an interesting black triangular marking on its side.

These Harlequins are very easy to care for, and they get along perfectly with platies. Rasboras are very social fish, so keep them in small groups to enjoy all they have to offer.

The other species of rasboras can work too, but avoid very small fish like chili rasboras as they may be intimidated or even eaten by their larger tank mates.

9. Otocinclus

Otocinclus Catfish

A small algae-eating fish. Also great with freshwater shrimp.

Click For Best Price

• Size: 1.75 inches
• Tank size: 10 gallons
• Scientific name: Otocinclus sp.
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Bottom
• pH: 6 – 7.5
• Water temperature: 74 – 79°F
• School size: 4+

Platy fish do eat algae, but they are not always able to keep their tank completely clean. The amazing little otocinclus catfish is an ideal choice for algae control in your community tank, and these little fish are really fascinating to watch.

Otos rely on a steady algae supply to stay healthy, so avoid adding them to a new aquarium without a good food source. They are completely vegetarian, so this is one species that you can safely keep with platy fry.

10. Boeseman’s Rainbowfish

• Size: 4 inches
• Tank size: 30 gallons
• Scientific name: Melanotaenia boesemani
• Origin: Papua New Guinea
• Swimming level: Upper & middle levels
• pH: 7 -8
• Water temperature: 72 – 77°F
• School size: 6+

Boeseman’s rainbow fish is a medium-sized species that makes quite a statement in any aquarium. These fish have neon blue shades on the front half of their body and vivid yellow-orange on the back, creating a striking two-tone appearance.

These rainbowfish are most happy when kept in a group of their own kind. You’ll want at least 6 of them in the same tank, so consider this species only if you can provide 30 gallons or more space.

The Boeseman’s rainbow fish is just one of many awesome species in this family. Check out my guide to 15 popular types of rainbowfish to learn about the other great species you can keep!

11. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

White Cloud Mountain Minnow

A very peaceful fish that does well in coldwater fish. Other minnow varieties are also available

Click For Best Price

• Size: 1.5 inches
• Tank size: 15 gallons
• Scientific name: Tanichthys albonubes
• Origin: China
• Swimming level: Top & middle
• pH: 6 – 8.5
• Water temperature: 57 – 71°F
• School size: 6+

White cloud mountain minnows are graceful and peaceful freshwater fish that you can keep with platy fish in a community tank. These small fish thrive in tanks as small as 15 gallons, and they come in some cool varieties like the long-tailed and golden options.

One important thing to note is that the white cloud minnow’s natural habitat is cold water streams, which means they can only co-habit with platies in water temperatures of 68 to 71°F.

12. Neon Tetra

Neon Tetra

Use Promo Code ASDFLIPPROMO 

One of the most popular freshwater community schooling fish available in the aquarium trade. Great neon blue colors!

Click For Best Price Buy From Petco Online

• Size: 1 inch
• Tank size: 15 gallons
• Scientific name: Paracheirodon innesi
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Middle
• pH: 4 – 7.5
• Water temperature: 70 – 77°F
• School size: 6+

There’s a reason why neon tetras are one of the most common aquarium fish in the hobby. These brightly colored schooling fish are super peaceful, and they make an excellent platy fish tank mate.

Neon tetras thrive in well-maintained community aquariums, just make sure you keep them in a group of 6 or more- these fish are social!

13. Ember Tetra

Ember Tetra

A small red tetra that grows up to 1.25 inches. A very peaceful schooling fish

Click For Best Price

• Size: 0.75 inches
• Tank size: 10 gallons
• Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Middle
• pH: 5 – 7
• Water temperature: 68 – 82 °F
• School size: 6

The ember tetra is yet another awesome tropical fish from the tetra family. These colorful schooling fish are tiny, so they are a good tank platy fish tank mate choice if you don’t have a lot of room to play with them.

Ember tetras are bright orange, so they will complement colorful platy breeds like the sunset variatus platy in a well-planted community aquarium.

14. Angelfish

• Size: 6 inches
• Tank size: 29 gallons
• Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Middle
• pH: 6 – 7.4
• Water temperature: 76 – 86°F
• School size: 1+

The Angelfish is an unmistakable favorite in the aquarium industry and an ideal centerpiece fish for your tropical freshwater tank. These fish have really long anal and dorsal fins that make them taller than they are long!

Angels may be on the larger side, but these stunning South American cichlids can make great companion fish for your platies. However, adult angel fish are large enough to swallow small fish, so make sure your platies are fully grown.

15. Hatchetfish

• Size: 1.25 inches
• Tank size: 20 gallons
• Scientific name: Carnegiella strigata
• Origin: South America
• Swimming level: Top
• pH: 5.5 – 7.5
• Water temperature: 75 – 81°F
• School size: 6+

Hatchetfish are an exceptional addition to any tropical aquarium. These surface-dwelling fish are deep-bodied and grow to just over an inch long but can jump out of your tank. It’s important to securely cover your tank to prevent them from escaping. Because they are sensitive to water quality, they’re best kept by experienced aquarium hobbyists. Keeping a school of at least 6 of their own kind and maintaining great water quality is key to keeping them healthy and happy.

These schooling fish can be a little on the sensitive side, so they are better suited to more experienced aquarium hobbyists. Keep a nice school of at least 6 of their own kind and maintain great water quality to keep these fascinating fish in great shape.

Community Aquarium Setup Guidelines

Have you found the perfect platy fish tank mates? Before you order your new pets, take a minute to run through this quick community tank setup checklist.

The Aquarium

You will need a cycled aquarium of at least 30 gallons. However, a 20-gallon could work if you’re keeping just two or three small species. Make sure your tank has a secure hood- most fish are great jumpers!

Essential Hardware

Purchase a good quality aquarium filter. Hang-on-back and internal power filters are great budget choices for small and medium community tanks, but consider a canister filter if you want to keep your aquarium clutter-free.

Editor’s Choice

Hagen AquaClear

The Best Aquarium Power Filter

The worlds best selling and most reliable power filter on the market. Unchanged for years because it’s so reliable and versatile

Buy On Amazon Click For Best Price

You’ll also need a reliable aquarium heater. Almost all the species on this list are tropical fish that need water temperatures around the mid-70s (Fahrenheit).

Substrate & Decorations

Add a layer of an aquarium-safe substrate like sand or gravel to the bottom of your tank. Choose a smooth substrate if you plan on keeping small bottom-dwellers like cory catfish.

Add a few decorations too, but make sure they are designed for fish tanks. You can use natural materials like driftwood and rocks, or use artificial cave ornaments.

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita Driftwood

Editor’s Choice

Manzanita offers it all. Great shape, low tannins, quick to water log and reasonably priced. It’s the ultimate driftwood!

Click For Best Price Click For Branch Pieces

I recommend live plants for just about any tropical freshwater aquarium because they look great and help to keep your water quality high. Start with easy live plants like Anubias and Java ferns if you’re a first-time plant grower.

Platy Tank Mates FAQs

Final Thoughts

Platy fish are one of the most beautiful and versatile species in the aquarium hobby. I hope this post has given you some ideas and the inspiration to add a few new fish to your platy aquarium!

What’s your favorite platy fish tank mate? Share your thoughts in the comments below! If you like our content, be sure to subscribe to our newsletter or our YouTube Channel.

📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide — your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.