Tag: Fishkeeping

  • Blackwater Aquarium Guide: 6 Best Fish Types and How to Set One Up

    Blackwater Aquarium Guide: 6 Best Fish Types and How to Set One Up

    Blackwater is one of my favorite aquarium styles, and one that doesn’t get nearly enough attention. There’s something genuinely beautiful about a dimly lit tank with amber-tinted water, leaf litter, driftwood roots, and a school of wild-type tetras or apistogramma moving through it. Done right, it looks like a slice of the Amazon. because that’s exactly what it’s mimicking.

    A lot of people who end up with tannin-stained water from new driftwood actually have the beginnings of a blackwater setup without knowing it. Understanding what blackwater really means. and which species evolved for it. opens up one of the most rewarding directions in freshwater fishkeeping. Here’s a practical guide to setting one up, plus the 6 fish types that belong in it.

    Keep reading!

    What Are Blackwater Aquariums (Blackwater Biotopes)?

    Blackwater tank aquariums mimic the natural habitat of rivers, swamps, floodplains, and lakes. Since these blackwater rivers have low minerals and high organic compounds or matter, the color of the blackwater habitat is mostly dark water with a tannin-stained appearance.

    And so, the fish species that inhabit these environments are called blackwater fish. Most blackwater fish prefer slightly acidic conditions having a pH of around 6.5 or below. Also, they need a balanced diet with live food or frozen foods.

    Though mesmerizing, a blackwater tank is challenging to keep and maintain because of the unique water chemistry and conditions required by the blackwater fish.

    Types of Blackwater Aquarium Fish

    It is a popular belief that blackwater fish such as Tetras, Discus, Apistos, Loaches, and rams can thrive without soft water, low pH, or perfect water chemistry or water parameters. However, it’s not true.

    Blackwater fish requires exceptionally crystal clean and clear water that is bacteria-free. Thus, make sure to keep blackwater fish, only if you can keep your tank clean.

    Here is a list of some of the popular blackwater aquarium fish to keep in your home aquariums:

    • Tetras
    • Rasboras
    • Hatchetfish
    • Corydoras
    • Discus
    • Gourami
    • Apistogramma and other dwarf cichlids.

    1. Tetras

    Many species of tetras thrive in a blackwater tank. The tetras that live in dark water such as in swamps, peat bogs, and blackwater rivers prefer low concentrations of dissolved minerals and ph-neutral substrates such as freshwater sand. Avoid using marine sand or gravel sand since they are usually made of limestone that breaks up and increases the pH levels of your tank.

    Congo-Tetra

    The tetras living in blackwater biotope have adapted to the blackwater conditions, thus, are very sensitive to changes in the water chemistry or parameters than other tetra species. Blackwater tetras are also more prone to stress and illness. So, proper monitoring should be done to avoid any mishaps.

    2. Geophagus

    Geophagus are a species of Cichlids found in the streams and blackwater rivers of South America. Blackwater tank hobbyists love Geophagus fish for the fact that it is a blackwater fish. Since they are a blackwater fish species, they require a specialized diet and water conditions to thrive in.

    Geophagus

    Also, they are territorial and aggressive towards other fish, so they need plenty of hiding places and large tank size to tame their aggressive traits. Nevertheless, Geophagus is a unique and enchanting addition to your freshwater fish tank.

    3. Discus Fish

    When we speak of blackwater aquarium fish, Discus is the first one that comes to mind.

    Discus fish are usually called “the king of the aquarium fish”, and rightfully so. They have a serene, vibrantly colored body with a unique body shape that stands out from the crowd. Discus are well-adapted for blackwater tanks with low pH and high levels of organic matter.

    Discus In An Aquarium

    Discus loves hanging out in small groups, hence, ideal for a community tank. Also, it requires a varied diet to maintain the vibrancy of its colors and overall health. Therefore, the water conditions and nutritional requirements need to be met to keep a discus fish in a blackwater tank.

    4. Gouramis

    <a href=Pearl Gourami Fish” class=”wp-image-554652″/>

    Gouramis, especially Chocolate Gouramis, enjoy the blackwater biotope setup as much as bettas and cichlids do. Just make sure your Gourami is happy with the soft, acidic, and tannin-filled water.

    5. Dwarf Cichlids

    Dwarf Cichlids are an excellent choice for a biotope aquarium. Check out our article on them for more info. There are several types available with German Rams being the most colorful

    German Ram Cichlid in Tank

    6. Betta Fish

    If you’ve kept Betta fish or the Siamese fighting fish, you’ll understand that the use of tannins is not a novel concept. Experts aquarists use dried or dead Indian almond leaves to keep their bettas healthy, happy, and thriving. In the past, it has also been noted that bettas kept in tannin water with organic matter leached are more colorful and healthier.

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    How To Set Up

    Setting up a blackwater biotope properly requires special attention and care due to the unique conditions of these environments. Here are some steps you can follow to set up a blackwater aquarium:

    1. Choose A Suitable Tank Size

    Choosing a suitable aquarium size for blackwater fish is not an issue. Since these fish species are usually small, the tank size is pretty flexible. Also, nano blackwater biotope are easy to maintain under strict water conditions.

    Therefore, I recommend setting up a smaller tank starting with ultra-purified water and treating it with plant tannins.

    If you want to keep fish species such as Discus fish and angelfish, you can opt for a 55 gallons tank or over only if you can maintain it.

    2. Choose The Right Substrate

    I recommend using a fine gravel substrate to provide your plants with a root zone. You can opt for a dark substrate, especially for planted aquariums. In all cases, marine sand or gravel should never be used because they are made of limestone and aragonite, which increase the pH levels of water.

    To keep the pH neutral, it’s important to use freshwater sand or gravel. Basically, any substrate that is rich in organics or pH neutral would be the best choice for a blackwater biotope.

    3. Add Live Aquatic Plants

    If you’re into keeping live plants, choose plants that are adapted to low light and low pH conditions, such as Anubias or Java fern.

    Live aquatic plants, although not necessary, provide beautiful aesthetics and a more natural environment for the blackwater fish. Also, plants are an ideal source of natural tannins, especially with the dead or decaying leaves.

    1. Choose plants that can survive low light and low pH conditions. Some good choices include Anubias, Java fern, and Cryptocoryne. Also, you can add floating plants such as Amazon frog bit, Najas Indica, red root floaters floating plants, etc.
    2. Use natural materials for decorations: Natural materials, such as driftwood, Indian almond leaves, aquarium wood, and rocks, can help to create blackwater habitats.

    4. Set Up The Filtration System

    To maintain excellent overall water chemistry, it’s important to install and set up an effective filtration system. Choosing a reliable filtration system for a blackwater aquarium is a daunting task because of the critical requirements.

    I recommend setting up a canister filter or power filter. Also, remove activated carbon from the media chambers and use peat in place of activated carbon in the filter’s media. After adding the peat, closely monitor watercolor and water quality and adjust the peat quantity accordingly.

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    5. Prepare The Fish

    The blackwater habitat is relatively different from any freshwater or saltwater tanks. Therefore, it is important to prepare the fish before adding so it can adapt well.

    6. Maintain The Water Quality

    Blackwater aquarium tank works the best with general water hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (CH) in the 2 to 5-degree range. This range has low dissolved minerals which are ideal for a blackwater aquarium.

    Ideally, you should do partial water changes to keep the water in pristine condition for your blackwater fish.

    Maintaining your tank water is the best bet for keeping a blackwater biotope aquarium. If the tank becomes too dark, up the number of water changes or does them a bit more regularly. If you need to clean the substrate or gravel, I recommend doing a quick “sweep” with a gravel siphon.

    7. Choose The Right Tank Mates

    It’s crucial to take the fish’s size, temperament, and care needs into account when selecting tank mates for blackwater fish.

    To fit their tank size, many aquarium owners choose for smaller schooling fish that flourish in a planted aquarium. The following advice will help you select the best tank mates for your blackwater fish:

    Think About The Fish’s Size

    It is crucial to select tank mates that are comparable in size and temperament to blackwater fish because they are often tiny and quiet. Avoid larger or more aggressive fish since they could intimidate or damage the blackwater fish.

    Choose Compatible Species

    Blackwater fish originate from a range of habitats, so it’s crucial to pair them with tank mates who are acclimated to the same types of water. Included in this are elements like pH, temperature, and water hardness.

    Think About The Care Demands

    Some blackwater fish species could need particular care, including a particular food or amount of water flow. To guarantee that every fish can survive in the aquarium, it is crucial to pair species that require a similar level of care.

    Pay Attention To The Amount Of Fish

    Overcrowding the blackwater tank should be avoided as it might result in poor water quality and stress for the fish. Make careful to look up the appropriate tank size and stocking rates for each fish species you are thinking about.

    FAQs

    Is This Good For Tanks?

    Yes, blackwater aquariums are suitable for fish designed for blackwater biotope. However, freshwater or saltwater fish might not be the right choice for a blackwater aquarium. Blackwater aquarium has low levels of dissolved minerals and high concentration of organic matter, which is not suitable for all fish types.

    Why Is the Water Dark?

    Blackwater is dark water because of humic substances or humic and fulvic acids.

    Do Neon Tetras Like This?

    Yes, Neon tetras (Paracheirodon innesi) are well adapted for Amazonian Blackwater environment and can thrive in these environments when given proper care.

    Can Tetras Live In Blackwater?

    Yes, some species of tetras are adapted to living in blackwater environments.

    Can You Have Plants In This Type Of Tank?

    Yes, you can have plants in a blackwater tank. Some examples of plants that may be suitable for a blackwater tank include Amazon sword plants, Anubias species, and Cryptocoryne species.

    What Does This Look Like In A Tank?

    Blackwater in an aquarium is water that appears black and tannin-stained, usually as a result of the presence of organic materials and little dissolved mineral content.

    Tannins

    Blackwater habitats are prevalent in nature and are characterized by very low levels of dissolved minerals and a high concentration of organic matter. They may be found in shallow, slow-moving waterways like rivers, swamps, and floodplains. In the realm of fishkeeping, blackwater tanks can be formed by utilizing a dark-colored substrate consisting of organic materials, such peat moss or coconut coir, or by employing leaves (Indian almond leaves or oak).

    Are These Tanks Good?

    Blackwater tanks, also known as “blackwater aquariums,” are aquariums that are designed to mimic the natural habitat of certain species of fish, plants, and other aquatic animals. These environments are typically characterized by low pH and high levels of dissolved organic matter, which can be achieved by using specialty filters and substrates, such as peat or leaf litter.

    Some people find blackwater tanks to be aesthetically pleasing and enjoy the unique appearance of the water and plants in these environments. Additionally, some species of fish and plants are adapted to living in blackwater environments and may thrive in these conditions.

    However, blackwater tanks can be more challenging to maintain compared to traditional freshwater aquariums. The low pH and high levels of organic matter can make it more difficult to keep the water clean and healthy, and it can be challenging to find the appropriate filtration and water-changing equipment for these types of tanks.

    Do All Fish Like Dark Water?

    No, not all fish species are adapted to living in blackwater environments, which are characterized by low pH and high levels of dissolved organic matter.

    Can Shrimp Live In This Type of Tank?

    Yes, some species of shrimp, such as Red Cherry shrimp, Pinto shrimp, and bamboo shrimps thrive in blackwater environments.

    Final Thoughts

    Blackwater aquariums, despite being challenging to set up and maintain, look ravishing and refreshing.

    It is important to carefully research the care requirements of the fish you are considering for a blackwater aquarium to ensure that they are suitable for these conditions. Blackwater aquariums can be rewarding to keep, as they provide a unique and beautiful setting for the fish to thrive in.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • What Do Fish Eat? 3 Diet Types and 7 Foods Every Keeper Should Know

    What Do Fish Eat? 3 Diet Types and 7 Foods Every Keeper Should Know

    After 25+ years of keeping everything from community tetras to large predatory cichlids and saltwater fish, the most consistent feeding mistake I see is people picking one food and sticking to it forever. Most fish do better with variety, and matching the diet to the species’ natural feeding behavior makes a bigger difference than most beginners expect. Feed an MBuna too much protein and you’re asking for Malawi bloat. Feed a predator nothing but flake and you’re leaving their immune system short.

    This guide breaks down the 3 main diet types and 7 food categories worth knowing, so you can make smarter choices for whatever you’re keeping.

    Key Takeaways

    • Fish species are classified into three categories, each with its own dietary needs.
    • Every fish species needs nutrients to survive, which they get from a well-balanced diet no matter what category they fall into.
    • Fish owners have plenty of options to choose fish food from, given they understand the dietary requirements of their pets.

    The Importance Of Feeding Your Aquarium The Right Food

    Feeding your fish the right type of fish food is pretty essential, especially when you have different species housed in the same tank.

    All species, regardless of where they come from, need a nutrient-rich diet. Some fish species get these nutrients from vegetable matter, while others need meaty foods to stay healthy.

    Pellet Foods

    And like humans, fish also need a well-rounded combination of proteins, fats, minerals, and vitamins in their food so that they can survive against all odds and have better lifespans. And in case you don’t know, fish can be picky eaters, too. Some fish prefer a plant-based diet, while other fish love to hunt down live prey.

    In their natural habitat, they are privileged to decide what they want to eat. But since they don’t have this option in captivity, the responsibility of providing them with a balanced diet falls on your shoulders.

    If you know where your fish comes from and what they are accustomed to eating in the wild, the process of choosing the right food will be easier and faster.

    Some fish species are found living in the depths, while others colonize the surface areas. Some species are freshwater fish, whereas others can be saltwater species. Their origin, as well as where they live in the water areas, determine the type of food they need.

    Fish diets can generally be broken into three different categories, which we are going to cover in the next part.

    Remember that if you know what category your fish fall into, you can easily design their menu according to their needs.

    Different Types Of Diets

    With different species known across the world, the change in their dietary needs is common and therefore necessary to get familiar with.

    You can generally classify your fish’s diet into three categories: Carnivorous, Herbivorous and Omnivorous.

    Let’s talk about each of them in more detail!

    Herbivores

    The first category on this list is Herbivorous fish.

    These fish get most of their nutrients from a plant-based diet. They can munch on algae or eat vegetable matter to stay healthy and active. In the wild, herbivorous fish get plenty of food options to choose from. Apart from algae and plant matter, you can supplement your pet with fruits for better growth in your home aquarium.

    Fish that fall into this category often have flat teeth or a beak that helps them bring off algae from rocks, wood, substrate, or other areas where they can find algae. These fish usually graze on areas with grown algae throughout the day and night. 

    Octocinclus Fish

    There are only a few named species that survive only on a plant-based diet because most species need a well-balanced diet of meaty foods and vegetables. You cannot feed them meat since they won’t be able to digest it.

    Compared to other types, Herbivorous fish can be challenging to keep because of their dietary needs. You need to supplement their tank with an abundant amount of food to graze on. Sometimes meeting their needs becomes pretty difficult, which can starve the fish to death. Luckily, there are options you can consider to avoid any mishap (more on that).

    Some common herbivorous fish include:

    Carnivores

    Carnivorous fish can also be called predatory fish that drive their energy from a meat-based diet. In the wild, they chase down smaller fish, insects, worms, snails, and shrimp. You can find fish like sharks actively hunting for live foods. On the other hand, other fish from the same category prefer sitting perfectly calm, waiting for their prey to become their next meal.

    Carnivorous fish feature bigger mouths, larger teeth, and aerodynamic bodies that help them with rapid swimming through water.

    Dragon Betta

    In the aquarium hobby, it’s unlikely to find a fish owner housing Carnivorous fish since these species have a very predatory nature. Carnivorous fish enjoy tearing apart their prey and swallowing them instead of chewing on their meals.

    Some carnivores would include:

    Omnivores

    Unlike those species that fall into the previous categories, Omnivorous fish have a solid digestive tract and offer you a wide range of options to consider when it comes to feeding them. They have a digestive system that allows both plant matter and meat to travel through, making them a pretty easy pet to care for.

    Fulfilling their nutritional requirements is pretty simple as long as you feed them a varied diet of vegetables and meat.

    Tank Raised Clownfish

    And for a good reason, you are more likely to see Omnivorous fish in your local pet store than Herbivorous or Carnivorous fish.

    Though these fish are a common type to find, you can come across some species that are more inclined towards either meaty foods or greens. The best way to find that out beforehand is to research their natural environment and the diet they consume in the wild. 

    Some common fish in this category include:

    What Do They Eat?

    Before you go and bring home a new pet, it’s always recommended to know the biology, size, and environment of the fish.

    Fish are extremely diverse, which makes their dietary needs different from one another. Fish that are Carnivorous can eat live food, such as other young fish. And as far as the herbivorous category is concerned, they love to eat plants and spend their whole lives eating only that. Fish that are omnivores can take both vegetable and meaty foods as their main diet.

    To get you started, I’ve listed out some common types of fish food suitable for different types of fish.

    Dried Food

    Dried fish food is one of the most common and convenient options to consider for your pet’s diet.

    Apart from being cheap and easily available, dried food offers a range of options for carnivores, herbivores, and omnivore fish. And not only that, but when stored properly, this can last for several years. So it doesn’t matter if your fish wants to have insects, plants, or both.

    There are different types of dried foods available in almost every pet store. Let’s dive into that!

    Flakes

    If you have top and mid-feeding fish, then flakes are for you.

    Flake foods are small pieces of paper-thin fish food that float on the surface from where mid-dwellers and surface feeders can effortlessly consume them.

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    You can find some specific kinds of dried flakes perfect for fish like goldfish. Apart from this, there are different varieties that can give you the freedom to go for enhancing the color of your fish.

    The size of dried flakes doesn’t have to coexist with the size of your pet since you can crush them into smaller bits and then feed them to your pet.

    The main downside to flakes is that as soon as they get into the water, they begin losing their nutrients. They will dissolve in the water, and that’s why I don’t recommend you feed them to your bottom feeders.

    Pellets

    Giving your fish floating pellets is another great option, especially when you want to keep every fish in your aquarium happy doesn’t matter where they live.

    Pellets, like flakes, are dried food that is made with different ingredients to target a specific diet.

    Typically, you will see three different types of pellets.

    The number one type is floating pellets that stay on the surface and transcend other types of fish food in size. Since they contain lots of air to stay afloat, some fish can potentially go through bloating or buoyancy issues, depending on what brand you’re using.

    The second type is slow-sinking pellets. These pellets are designed to target the appetite of mid-dwellers who are too shy to eat up their food. As for the size, these pellets come in different sizes, so you can find the one that best suits the size of your fish’s mouth.

    The third and last type is fast-sinking pellets. These pellets quickly sink down to the bottom for bottom-dwelling fish to feast on. Unlike the other two types, fast-sinking pellets contain the most nutrients and make a perfect meal for fish like plecos.

    Wafers

    Wafers are another type of dry fish food that comes in both large and small sizes. They take time to dissolve and therefore are perfect for your slow-feeder fish to devour.

    Wafers become gradually soft in the water and can be eaten either by breaking up or by nibbling on them.

    Herbivore fish can be fed algae wafers to fulfill their need since finding grown algae on a frequent basis is not possible for your pet.

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    Freeze-dried foods

    Though less in protein as compared to fresh or frozen food, freeze-dried food is still a fine option for fish owners.

    Typically freeze-dried food is something that was once alive but has been freeze-dried. It can include shrimp or worms and is usually given to those fish that need protein-rich foods.

    Aside from worms and brine shrimp, you can freeze-dry daphnia, bloodworms, tubifex, and krill.

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    The good thing about freeze-dried food is that it can outlive other foods and can easily fit in the mouths of smaller fish species.

    Live Foods

    If you’re a beginner, then fetching live food for your fish will be pretty demanding. Except for live feeder fish and ghost shrimp, it’s like an enterprise to get live food for your pet fish.

    Live foods are rich in nutrients, but they can turn your freshwater aquarium into a disease center for your pet fish. You can buy bloodworms, feeder fish, and ghost shrimp from any local fish store, where you can find plenty of live foods that have been farmed specifically for this purpose.

    But in case you don’t want to run to the store every time you run out of supply, you can grow mosquito larvae at home to feed your fish. Just make sure you get a fresh supply available.

    Since live foods can introduce tons of diseases to home aquariums and to your fish, I recommend going for frozen food. Culturing live food is a better venture for an aquarist with more experience (and who doesn’t mind getting messy).

    Frozen Foods

    fish food Frozen fish food is typically fish, shrimp, or other crustaceans frozen into cubes. Unlike live foods, frozen food is superior in quality and can become a nutrient-rich diet for your fish.

    At the time of feeding, just drop the cube into the aquarium and let your little pet enjoy the feast.

    Frozen foods can live longer than live foods when properly stored in a freezer. They are easily available online and at local fish stores. If you are a beginner and measuring servings is hard for you, then you can use these cubes to ensure you are not overfeeding your pets.

    FAQs

    What Is Their Main Food?

    The main food of the fish depends on the category they fall into. For carnivores and omnivores, smaller fish, insects, worms, and snails are the main source of food whereas herbivores eat plants.

    What Do They Eat In The Ocean?

    The diet of an ocean fish can vary depending on the category. Herbivorous fish eats algae while omnivores and carnivores can feast on shrimp, plankton, and crustaceans.

    Closing Thoughts

    Different types of fish have different dietary needs, which can be met by a variety of food options. It’s important to know what type of diet your fish requires and the foods that fit them best in order to ensure they’re getting the nutrients they need. Have you tried any new fish food products for your pets lately? Let us know about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • Betta Fish Losing Color? Here Are the 7 Most Likely Reasons

    Betta Fish Losing Color? Here Are the 7 Most Likely Reasons

    Color fading in bettas is one of the most common concerns I hear from keepers, and in most cases it’s fixable once you identify the actual cause. After years of keeping bettas, the first things I always check are water quality and temperature. a stressed or cold betta will pale out fast, and those two factors account for most cases I’ve seen.

    That said, some color changes are completely normal. Marble bettas change color throughout their lives. that’s genetics, not disease. Older bettas (2+ years) will naturally fade some. Knowing which situation you’re in changes what you do about it. Here are the 7 most likely reasons and how to tell them apart.

    Top 7 Reasons Why Your Betta Fish Is Losing Its Color

    Here are the top 7 reasons why your Betta is losing color.

    1. Introducing A New Member To The Tank

    Betta fish are highly territorial and aggressive. Therefore, any new fish added to the aquarium is seen as a potential threat to their territory. Hence, this leads to aggression and territorial behavior in the aquarium. Your betta fish might flare the fins or chase new fish to get rid of the new fish, eventually leading to stressful behavior.

    Therefore, I always suggest choosing the tank mates carefully for your betta’s aquarium. If you’re planning to introduce a new fish in the tank, provide lots of hiding places and decorations for the fish.

    2. Stress 

    Betta will always lose color under stress. When Bettas are under stress, their bodies release a hormone that results in your fish losing color. The amount of color loss is dependent on the severity of the stress. In serious circumstances, your betta fish turns white or loses color1.

    There are so many reasons for stress in Betta fish such as changes in the environment, poor water quality, poor diet, and other fish that are incompatible.

    If you want your fish to maintain their vibrant colors, it’s important to provide them with a stress-free environment. Always maintain water quality, monitor water parameters, and avoid adding too many fish in the betta tank.

    3. Diseases

    If stress or other water parameters are not the underlying cause of your betta fish losing color, then illness is a possible reason.

    Betta fish may catch fish diseases such as parasites or bacterial infections that cause them to lose their vibrancy.

    Ich

    Freshwater Ich

    Ich is a parasitic infection that causes white spots on the betta’s skin and fins. Ich is one of the leading reasons your betta fish turning white or losing color. To treat ich, several medications are prescribed but it’s important to identify the underlying cause.

    Fin Rot

    Fin rot is caused by bacterial infections. The symptoms include; frayed betta fins or ragged fins and may also affect the fish’s skin. If left untreated, it can be a deadly infection.

    The common causes of fin rot are:

    1. Poor water quality
    2. Overcrowding
    3. Improper diet
    4. Physical trauma and stress
    Betta with Fin Rot

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms are contagious. And the best part is they can see with the naked eye. Anchor worms are parasites that appear as long, thin, and thread-like particles on the betta’s body.

    The infected fish shows symptoms such as:

    1. Scratching or rubbing against objects
    2. Loss of appetite
    3. Loss of color
    4. Lacerations and ulcerations on the betta’s body

    4. Poor Water Quality

    Betta fish are native to slow-moving waters in Southeast Asia. Therefore, they need particular water conditions to remain healthy and happy in their tank. When the water parameters are not properly maintained, it can lead to a variety of problems, including fish diseases and loss of color.

    I always suggest regularly testing the water and making adjustments to maintain water parameters and quality. Always test the water to make sure that it is within the ideal ranges.

    pH

    First of all, the pH of betta tank water should be maintained. Betta fish likes slightly acidic pH ranging between 6.5 to 7.5. If you keep the pH too high or low, your fish might fall victim to stress and ultimately lose color.

    Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrates

    It is vital to monitor the levels of ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate in the tank water. High levels of ammonia and other toxins may result in deadly fish diseases.

    If the tank water is not properly maintained, it can lead to a variety of health problems, including a loss of color. Proper water quality is essential for bettas, and it is important to regularly test the water and make sure that it is within the proper range for pH, ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels to avoid ammonia poisoning or nitrate poisoning.

    5. Poor Diet

    Betta fish require a varied, nutritious, and carnivorous diet in order to maintain their health and vibrancy. A diet that is lacking in nutrients or that is unbalanced can lead to a variety of health problems, including a loss of color.

    Since betta is carnivorous, their diet mainly consists of protein. It’s crucial to feed them food high in protein such as live or frozen foods, brine shrimp, daphnia, and bloodworms. I also advise feeding them freeze-dried foods or dry food supplements to improve their health and color vibrancy.

    Along with protein-rich diet, feed your betta vitamins and minerals as a color-enhancing food but make sure the diet is balanced to maintain the health and vibrancy of the fish, without overfeeding fish.

    6. Incorrect Water Temperature

    Water temperature plays a vital role in maintaining the vibrancy of your betta fish. Since bettas are tropical fish, they prefer consistent water temperatures to remain happy and healthy. Too high or too low water temperature can cause stress and other health problems in your betta fish, including color loss.

    Effect Of High Temperatures

    At high temperatures, betta fish is susceptible to stress and diseases, and this might be the reason for your betta fish turning white or losing color. At high temperatures, the betta’s body stops functioning properly, which results in low pigment production. Hence, the color loss.

    Effect Of Low Temperatures

    Low water temperature is equally harmful to the betta fish as the cold water usually slows down your fish’s metabolism. As a result, they become more prone to diseases and stress. Additionally, the pigment cells of betta fish contract at low temperatures, resulting in a loss of color.

    Ideal Water Water For Betta Fish

    To maintain the color and vibrancy of your betta fish, it’s important to keep the water temperature in ideal range.

    The ideal water temperature for your betta tank is between 76 and 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24-28 degrees Celsius). I suggest using a reliable thermometer to monitor and maintain a consistent temperature.

    7. Old Age

    One of the main reasons your betta is suffering from color loss is nothing, but the inevitable; old age!

    As your betta fish ages, you’ll realize that it appears less vibrant and less colorful as the younger fish in the tank.

    There are many factors that contribute to the color loss in older betta fish.

    1. Low production of pigment in the betta’s body
    2. Decline in overall’s betta health
    3. Stress and fish diseases

    If your older Betta is suffering from color loss, it’s not uncommon. However, you need to maintain proper water quality and betta’s diet to avoid other problems and illness.

    How To Brighten Their Color

    If your betta fish is progressively losing its color and you have no idea why, there are a few things you can do to get those beautiful, bright colors back.

    Monitor Water Quality

    The good thing about betta fish is its ability to thrive in small aquariums. However, the small containers, vases and jars often become too toxic for your betta fish to live in. The traces of ammonia, nitrates, and nitrites may cause other deadly fish diseases, resulting in a loss of color.

    Therefore, it is recommended to monitor and maintain the water quality and choose the appropriate tank size for your betta fish. The ideal tank size should be no less than 5 gallons.

    Feed Them Shrimp

    It’s a known fact that betta regains their bright, beautiful colors when you feed your betta protein-rich food. Also, natural foods containing carotenoids have a proven record to restore Betta’s color.

    Thus, when you feed your betta just fish food, they become constipated and lose color. Experienced betta keepers always recommend feeding betta fish color-enhancing foods such as brine shrimp and other crustaceans to brighten up your tank with the natural beauty of your adorable bettas.

    Use LED Aquarium Lighting

    This might sound like the most bizarre option, but it actually works.

    If you notice your betta fish turning white or getting grey and dull in color, just install LED aquarium lighting and within the next few hours, the colors will be back. That’s because the aquarium lighting causes the colors of betta to become more intense and darker.

    Why Are They Turning Black?

    Sometimes, betta doesn’t lose their color but turns black, especially from their fins. The process of betta fish turning black might disturb aquarists. However, it’s not worrisome if your fish’s health is good.

    There are several factors that contribute to your betta fish turning black.

    The Marble Betta Gene Factor

    If your betta has the marble gene, it will most likely turn black after the age of two. And as your betta ages, it will become darker and darker with time. Therefore, under the age of one or two, if your betta turns black, there can be a problem. The problem can be poor water quality, stress or improper tank cycling. In severe cases, it can be a disease called the black spot disease.

    What Should I Do If They Are Turning Black?

    If your betta is suffering from black spots or turning black, you should first rule out the black spot disease and other environmental factors. If everything seems okay, the fish changing color should not be a problem.

    Here are a few things you could do to avoid your bettas from getting black.

    1. Provide enough oxygen to the betta tank by using airstone kits that are reliable and easy to use.
    2. Cycle your tank properly by establishing beneficial bacteria that help balance the nitrogen levels in the tank.
    3. Choose suitable tank mates for your betta tank and eliminate stress from the aquarium.

    FAQs

    Why Are They Turning White?

    Your beloved betta fish might be turning white because of stress, some underlying cause such as stress, and other fish diseases, including bacterial infection, fungal infection, or poor water quality and water parameters. Last but not the least, the major cause of color loss in your precious betta fish might be as simple as old age.

    How Do I Get Their Color Back?

    If you experience your betta fish losing color, there are things you can do to restore the vibrancy.
    1. Identify and address the underlying cause
    2. Provide a balanced nutritious diet
    3. Maintain a healthy and consistent tank atmosphere
    4. Seek professional help

    Do They Turn White When Stressed?

    Yes, betta fish can turn white when stressed. It is due to the release of hormones that cause the color pigments to contract, resulting in a loss of color.

    Do They Turn White?

    Yes, Betta can turn white or pale under certain circumstances. Some possible causes of color loss in bettas include:

    1. Introducing a new fish to the betta tank
    2. Old age
    3. Stress
    4. Bacterial or fungal infection
    5. Poor water quality
    6. Poor diet
    7. Fish diseases
    8. Incorrect water parameters and water temperature

    Final Thoughts

    Betta fish are beautiful aquatic creatures with long, flowy fins that drape beautifully around their bodies. The key characteristic of betta fish is their vibrant colors and beautiful patterns. However, stress, poor water quality, fish illness, and other factors may result in a loss of color that concerns fish keepers.

    To keep your betta fish healthy and happy and in their best shape and colors, it’s essential to provide them with the right water conditions, diet, and tank mates, so they develop more vivid colors to awe their owners.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • Dinosaur Bichir Care Guide: The Most Prehistoric Fish You Can Keep at Home

    Dinosaur Bichir Care Guide: The Most Prehistoric Fish You Can Keep at Home

    The Dinosaur Bichir is the kind of fish that makes experienced keepers stop and stare. This is not a beginner species. It requires specific conditions, a specific tank, and a keeper who understands what they are signing up for. After 25 years in the hobby, I still consider this one of the most fascinating fish you can own.

    This fish will outgrow your plans. Accept that before you buy it.

    This fish lives a long time, grows large, and demands a dedicated setup. The commitment is real and the costs add up over years, not months.

    Oddball fish are not conversation starters. They are conversation dominators. Guests will stare at this tank for twenty minutes.

    A few things to know upfront: they’re air-breathers, so they need consistent access to the water surface. They’re predators, so small tank mates won’t last. And they can escape. A tight-fitting lid is non-negotiable. They’re surprisingly hardy, but they’re not a community fish. Here’s what you need to set one up right.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Dinosaur Bichir

    Oddball fish are the fish that visitors notice first. Nobody glances at this tank and keeps walking. They stop, stare, and ask questions. Be prepared to explain what you are keeping multiple times a week.

    Feeding is an event. Many oddballs are predators that hunt live or frozen food with visible intensity. Watching this fish track and strike at prey is one of the most dramatic moments in fishkeeping.

    These fish grow fast and steadily. One month it fits comfortably. Three months later, you are researching larger tanks. The growth rate catches new owners off guard every single time.

    Oddball fish often recognize their owners. They approach the glass when you enter the room, accept food from your hand, and display behaviors that feel remarkably personal. That connection is why oddball keepers rarely go back to community tanks.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Dinosaur Bichir

    Most care sheets list the minimum tank size for Dinosaur Bichir and call it a day. But a minimum is just that. In my experience, giving them more room changes their behavior completely. You see more natural movement, less stress, and fewer aggression issues. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Dinosaur Bichir are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Keeping Dinosaur Bichir

    Tank size requirements are extreme. Most oddball fish grow large, fast, and need significantly more space than beginners expect. A 2-inch juvenile will eventually need hundreds of gallons. Research adult size before purchasing, not juvenile size.

    Diet is specialized. Many oddball fish are predators that need live or frozen foods. Some refuse pellets entirely. Feeding costs for large predatory fish add up quickly over the life of the fish.

    Tankmate compatibility is extremely limited. Most oddball fish are either predators that eat smaller fish or territorial species that attack anything in their space. Community setups require careful size matching.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Buying a juvenile oddball fish without understanding its adult size. That cute 3-inch fish at the store will be 18 inches long within two years and need a tank most people cannot afford or fit in their home.

    Expert Take

    Before you buy any oddball fish, look up its adult size and multiply your expected tank cost by three. That is the realistic budget for keeping this fish properly.

    Key Takeaways

    What is a Dinosaur Bichir?

    Want a conversation piece? Get this fish. Want easy maintenance? Get community fish instead. There is no middle ground with oddball species.

    The Senegal bichir, also known as the Reed fish, Cuvier’s bichir, grey bichir, Swamp dragon, Dragon fish, and Dinosaur eel, are all the common names of dinosaur bichir (Polypterus Senegalus). The fact that Dinosaur Bichirs are fish and not eels, the name, Dinosaur eel, is rather confusing.

    Dinosaur bichirs are freshwater fish that belongs to the family Polypteridae with ray finned fins. They are found in Africa and, sometimes, in a range of aquatic environments, including lakes, swamps, rivers, and streams.

    There are over a dozen distinct species of swamp dragons, sometimes called dinosaur bichirs. The Grey Bichir or Senegalus Bichir species, however, is the most popular among fish keepers. Dark grey horizontal stripes that gradually wane as the fish matures are present all over the dinosaur Bichir.

    Origin and Habitat

    They are freshwater fish and are native to African regions such as Chad, Cameroon, Ghana, Senegal, and Sudan as well as other African nations extending from the Nile River basin into West Africa.

    Appearance

    Dinosaur bichir have elongated, eel-like bodies that are covered in a row of bony, fin-like appendages called pterygiophores. These leg like limbs support the fish while they are lying on the bottom and aid in movement through the water. They often have a row of spines running along their backs and are a light green or brown tint.

    Bichir Fish

    They have a mouth full of tiny, pointed teeth and enormous, prominent eyes. They are well recognised for being able to breathe air, which enables them to survive in situations with low oxygen levels.

    Overall, dinosaur bichir are enchanting freshwater fish that are well-liked by aquarium hobbyists. They are a fantastic option for beginner aquarists because of their hardiness and versatility.

    How Big Do Senegal Bichir Get?

    Some Bichir species can reach lengths of up to 3 feet. However, other fish species, like the Senegalese Bichir, only reach a height of about one foot.

    Dinosaur bichirs have the potential to grow fairly enormous, with some reaching lengths of up to three feet (91 cm). However, these fish often have substantially smaller average sizes, with most individuals being between 12 and 24 inches long (30-60 cm). Diet, environment, and heredity are just a few examples of the variables that might affect the typical dinosaur bichir size.

    It’s crucial to these fish, especially when they’re young, may develop pretty fast. Therefore, it’s important to give them a roomy tank that can fit their expanding growth. For a fully developed dinosaur bichir, a tank capacity of at least 90 gallons is advised. In order to encourage their growth and development, it’s crucial to provide them a high-quality food that is abundant in protein and other minerals.

    Dinosaur Bichir Lifespan

    A dinosaur bichir’s lifetime can change based on things including nutrition, environment, and genetics. These fish are known to live relatively longer in general, with some living for over 20 years. However, they frequently survive for 10 to 15 years in captivity, especially if they get good care.

    It’s crucial to provide your dinosaur bichir with a roomy tank that is adequately filtered and oxygenated if you want to help guarantee that they live a long and healthy life. To promote their growth and development, these fish also require a high-quality food that is rich in protein and other minerals. Your fish can stay healthy and happy by receiving regular water changes and tank upkeep.

    Care Guide

    Dinosaur bichir are hardy fish species that are well-liked by people who enjoy keeping fish. They are indigenous to Africa and may be found in a range of aquatic environments, such as lakes, rivers, and streams. These fish are well known for being able to breathe air, which enables them to live in situations with low oxygen levels.

    Bichir Fish in Aquarium

    Tank Setup

    If you’re interested in keeping dinosaur bichir as pets, here is a general care guide to help you get started:

    Tank size

    Dinosaur bichir can get pretty big with some species reaching around 3 feet in length. Therefore, aim for providing them with a spacious tank size that can accommodate their size, keeping them happy and healthy.

    The ideal tank size of dinosaur bichirs should be no less than 90 gallons.

    Water Parameters

    Dinosaur Bichirs fish can tolerate a broad range of water conditions. However, they prefer a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and a water temperature of 75 to 82 degrees Fahrenheit (24 to 28 degrees Celsius). I recommend doing regular water changes and installing a reliable filtration system to maintain the water quality so your bichirs remain happy and healthy.

    Handling

    Dinosaur Bichirs are sensitive to stress and is hurt by hard handling, thus touching them is not advised. It is recommended to watch over and take care of these fish without going inside the tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    Your dinosaur bichir’s health and wellbeing depend on proper tank upkeep. Here are some general pointers for keeping the fish in these tanks in a healthy habitat. For your tank’s water quality to remain high, routine water changes are essential.

    A gravel vacuum should be used to remove any substrate debris before doing a water change of roughly 25% once a week. Before adding tap water to the tank, make sure to run it through a water conditioner to get rid of chlorine and other impurities.

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    Filtration and Aeration


    The water quality in your tank must be maintained using a high-grade filtering system. It’s crucial to pick a filter that fits your tank’s size and the quantity of fish you keep. You make sure your filter is operating correctly, and be sure to clean and maintain it frequently.

    A healthy tank habitat for dinosaur bichir includes filtration and aeration. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. They are well recognized for being able to breathe air, which enables them to survive in situations with low oxygen levels.

    Here are some general guidelines for filtration and aeration in a tank for dinosaur bichirs:

    1. Filtration: To keep the water in your tank in good condition, a top-notch filtration system is necessary. It’s crucial to pick a filter that fits your tank’s size and the quantity of fish you keep. For dinosaur bichir, a filter that can process at least 4-6 times the capacity of your tank per hour is advised.
    2. Aeration: Maintaining your tank’s oxygen levels and enhancing your fish’s general health require enough aeration. To add oxygen to the water, it makes sense to utilize an air pump and air stones. To assist in circulating and oxygenating the water, you may also utilize a powerhead or a canister filter.
    3. Filter Filter types: Canister filters, hang-on-back filters, and sponge filters are a few of the filter types that may be used in a tank for dinosaur bichir. Larger tanks benefit from canister filters because they offer a high flow rate and a lot of filter media capacity. Smaller tanks benefit from hang-on-back filters since they are simple to install and maintain. For dinosaur bichir, sponge filters may not be enough as these fish are hard on bioloads.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    For a tank containing the dinosaur bichir, aquatic plants and ornaments is a wonderful addition. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. They are normally calm and don’t need much room to swim, although they do like certain structures and hiding spots in their tank. The best aquatic plants for Dinosaur bichirs are Java Fern, Java Moss, Anubias, and other lowlight plants.

    Tank Decorations

    Your dinosaur bichir can have structures and hiding places to explore such as caverns, PVC pipes, and artificial vegetation.

    Author's Note: It's crucial to pick decorations that are secure for your fish and free of any potentially harmful sharp edges or rough surfaces.

    Substrate

    The substrate, or the substance that makes up the tank’s bottom, can also play a significant role in the decoration of your tank. Fine gravel, sand, or a mix of the two are suitable substrate choices for dinosaur bichir. It’s important to choose a substrate that is secure for your fish and simple to care for.

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    Diet

    Since Dinosaur Bichirs are carnivorous fish, they consume a wide range of meals, including live, frozen, and freeze-dried worms, crustaceans, and insects. To promote their growth and development, it’s essential to provide them a varied diet that is high in protein and other nutrients.

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    Frequency of meals

    Depending on their size and age, you should only feed your fish once or twice a day. Also, it’s not recommended to overfeed your Bichirs to maintain tank hygiene and maintain pristine water conditions. Feed them as much as they can eat in a few minutes.

    Variety

    Your dinosaur bichir’s general health and well-being depend on having a diversified diet. You may provide them with high-quality commercial pellet or flake food that is made for omnivorous fish in addition to live and frozen items.

    Supplements

    I also advise including fresh vegetables like spinach, lettuce, and peas in the diet of your dinosaur bichir. However, these vegetables may be difficult to digest for your Bichirs. To cater to this, I recommend blanching these veggies beforehand.

    Feeding habits

    Dinosaur bichir are carnivorous predators and opportunistic eaters that will consume a wide range of foods. They may forage for food on the water’s surface because of their well-known capacity to breathe air. It’s crucial to provide them with a balanced diet composed of both aquatic and terrestrial items.

    Community Tank Mates

    Although they can occasionally be moderately aggressive fish, dinosaur bichirs are often calm fish that get along well with various tank mates. They are a fantastic choice for a community tank because of their hardiness and versatility.

    Compatibility

    Regarding size, attitude, and environmental needs, it’s critical to select tankmates that are suitable for dinosaur bichir. These fish ought to be housed alongside other tranquil species that won’t bother or nibble at them.

    Size

    Dinosaur bichir may grow up to three feet in length, making them huge fish (91 cm). To prevent any hostility or bullying, it’s crucial to select tankmates that are of like size.

    Water conditions

    Choose tankmates who can tolerate the same water conditions as dinosaur bichir if you want them to survive. Bichirs prefer tropical temperatures of 75. 82ยฐF (24. 28ยฐC) and a pH range of 6.5. 7.5.

    Some good community tank mates for dinosaur bichir include:

    Are Dinosaur Bichir Aggressive?

    The majority of dinosaur bichir are rather aggressive fish. They are famous for their resilience, flexibility, and general calmness around other fish. It’s crucial to remember that every fish has a unique personality and may display various behaviors based on their surroundings and tank mates. Dinosaur eels occasionally exhibit aggressive behavior toward smaller or slower-moving fish, especially if they feel threatened or are hungry.

    Choose tankmates that are suitable with dinosaur bichir in terms of size, temperament, and environmental needs to help reduce aggressiveness in your tank.

    Additionally, it’s imperative to provide your fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore. You may lessen hostility and foster harmony in the population of fish in your aquarium by giving your fish a healthy, stress-free environment.

    Can You Keep A Single Dinosaur Bichir fish?

    Dinosaur bichirs is content and healthy without tank mates. However, some individuals might find it more intriguing and delightful to observe a community of fish interacting and exploring their surroundings as a whole rather than keeping their dinosaur bichir alone.

    Choose tankmates that are compatible with your dinosaur bichir in terms of size, temperament, and environmental needs if you prefer to keep them together with other fish. Additionally, it’s crucial to provide your fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore.

    The choice of whether to keep your dinosaur bichir with tank mates or alone is ultimately subjective and will rely on your choices and the particular requirements of your fish.

    How Many Dinosaur Bichirs Should You Have?

    Numerous variables, including as the tank’s size, the fish’s size, and the tank’s general stocking density, affect the number of dinosaur bichir.

    Aim for a stocking density of around 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) of fish per gallon (3.8 litres) of water as a general rule. This will help avoid overpopulation and stress by giving each fish ample room to swim and explore.

    Poor Tank Mates

    Dinosaur bichir shouldn’t be kept with certain fish, such as:

    Fish that are territorial or aggressive

    Since dinosaur bichir are often placid, fish that are likely to nip at them or bother them may not get along well with them. Cichlids, several catfish species, and some tetra species are a few examples of aggressive fish that would not make good tankmates for dinosaur bichir.

    Fish that are smaller or move more slowly

    Because dinosaur bichir are predatory fish, they may feed on these fish, especially if they are not receiving enough food. To prevent any hostility or bullying, it’s critical to pair together fish in the same tank that are comparable in size and temperament.

    Fish with different habitat requirements

    It’s crucial to find tank mates who can tolerate the same water conditions as dinosaur bichirs in their native home since various fish have varied habitat needs. These fish like temperatures of 75. 82ยฐF (24. 28ยฐC) and a pH range of 6.5. 7.5. Fish that demand very high or very low pH levels or temperatures, for example, may not be acceptable.

    Breeding

    Breeding senegal bichir, sometimes known as dinosaur bichir, is a rather simple operation that doesn’t need for any specialised setup or equipment. The breeding process of Dinosaur bichirs is as follows:

    Aquarium setup

    It’s crucial to provide your breeding fish a roomy, clean tank with lots of structures and hiding spots for them to explore. For a fully developed dinosaur bichir, a tank that is at least 90 gallons (284 litres) in size is advised.

    Water conditions

    These fish like waters with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 and a temperature of 75 to 82ยฐF (24 to 28ยฐC). By making routine water changes and utilising a top-notch filtration system, good water quality may be maintained.

    Diet

    Your breeding fish should have a varied diet that is high in protein and other elements for general health and well being. You may provide them with high-quality commercial pellet or flake food that is made for omnivorous fish in addition to live and frozen items.

    Breeding behavior

    Bichir dinosaurs are mostly calm creatures that don’t engage in any particular courtship or mating behavior. On a level surface, the female will lay her eggs, and the male will fertilize them. Your breeding fish should have a lot of hiding spots and structures to make them feel safe and promote breeding behavior.

    Incubation and hatching

    Depending on the water’s temperature, the eggs will hatch 7 to 10 days after fertilization. Maintaining adequate water quality and giving the fry appropriate food as they develop is crucial.

    Common Health Problems

    Dinosaur bichir, like any pets, are susceptible to various health issues if they are not given the necessary care. Native to Africa, these fish may be found in lakes, rivers, streams, and other types of aquatic settings. Although they are renowned for their resilience and flexibility, poor tank conditions can still cause them to have health issues.

    Here are some common health problems that dinosaur bichir may experience:

    Ich

    Ich is one of the most common fish diseases that is brought on by a parasite that can spread through contact with contaminated fish or through the water.

    Symptoms

    1. White patches on the skin and gills
    2. Lethargy
    3. A loss of appetite

    Several treatments is used to treat ich, but the best way to stop outbreaks is to maintain acceptable water quality and practice basic hygiene.

    Fin rot

    Fin rot is caused by a bacterial infection. It frequently results from bad water, crowded conditions, or physical harm to the fins.

    Symptoms

    1. Fin rot signs include ragged or frayed fins
    2. Redness or inflammation
    3. An appetite reduction.

    Antibiotics is used to cure fin rot, but to stop it from happening again, the root problem must be addressed.

    Swim bladder disorder

    A disease known as swim bladder dysfunction affects the swim bladder, an organ filled with gas that keeps fish buoyant. It is brought on by a number of things, including bad water quality and overfeeding.

    FAQS

    How big do dinosaur bichirs get?

    Some species of these fish may grow fairly large, up to a length of around 11.8 to 23.6 inches.

    Are bichirs aggressive?

    Although bichirs are normally not violent, they can become so during mating. As long as they are not too little and are not aggressive themselves, they are calm fish that may be housed alongside other kinds of fish.

    Before introducing any species of bichir to your aquarium, it is a good idea to do some research on the particular species you are interested in keeping and to speak with an experienced fishkeeper or a veterinarian. Since every animal has its own personality, it’s critical to provide your bichir with lots of room and a suitable habitat so they may grow.

    Do They Have Teeth?

    Yes, Dinosaur Bichirs have a set of horny, tooth-like structures in their neck and upper digestive system called pharyngeal teeth that they utilise to break open their prey’s shells. Despite not being actual teeth, these structures have a comparable function.

    Can They Live Out Of Water?

    They cannot survive without water. Bichirs, like other fish, need on an ongoing flow of oxygen-rich water to sustain their breathing and other bodily processes.

    What Do You Feed A Dinosaur Eel?

    Since they are carnivores, bichirs rarely eat dry foods. A diet of frozen or live foods, such as shrimp, baitfish, mussels, and earthworms, is suggested for larger fish. Smaller animals also consume bloodworms, mosquito larvae, and vitamin-enriched brine shrimp.

    Final Thoughts

    Dinosaur bichirs are popular freshwater fish that resemble eels; that’s why there are also called as dinosaur eels. They are hardy and easy to care for, but under certain circumstances, they may develop underlying health issues that need special attention and care. Hence, maintain water quality and provide them with ideal tank size and tank mate to ensure their healthy lifestyle.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Aquarium Water Hardness Explained: GH, KH, and How to Adjust Both

    Aquarium Water Hardness Explained: GH, KH, and How to Adjust Both

    Water hardness is one of the parameters beginners most often overlook. it doesn’t affect fish the same immediate way ammonia does, but long-term mismatches between your tap water hardness and your fish’s requirements will quietly work against you. I’ve seen it cause health problems that take months to show up and are hard to diagnose without testing the right things.

    The two numbers you need to understand are GH (general hardness) and KH (carbonate hardness/alkalinity). they measure different things and affect your fish differently. If you’re keeping African cichlids, hard and alkaline is what you want. If you’re keeping bettas, apistos, or tetras, soft and acidic is the goal. Here’s how to test both, what the numbers mean, and how to adjust them in either direction.

    Key Takeaways

    • Water hardness is a measure of the dissolved minerals in your water.
    • Tap water from different parts of the world has different total hardness/ general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness (KH) levels.
    • GH is a measure of calcium and magnesium ions, while KH is a measure of calcium carbonate anions. pH is a measure of the acidity or basicity of the water.
    • Water hardness affects the kind of tropical fish, invertebrates, and plant species you can keep in your aquarium.
    • It is possible to adjust water hardness, but it is easier to choose fish species that are adapted to your local water.

    What Is Water Hardness?

    Water hardness is the concentration of minerals dissolved in the water. More specifically, it refers to the amount of calcium and magnesium in the water, as well as trace amounts of other minerals. You can check out our lastest video from our YouTube Channel. We go into more details in the blog post below. Be sure to subscribe if you enjoy our content!

    The concentration of these minerals depends on the geology of the area where the water originates. That means water hardness varies from area to area, and it all depends on the kinds of rocks the water passes over before it gets to your home. Dolomite and limestone are common rock types that alter water chemistry.

    You can get a general idea of the hardness of your tap water in the US by checking out the United States Geological Survey (USGS) website1. However, testing your aquarium water quality and parameters at home is the best way to get an accurate picture.

    We can break it down one step further and measure general hardness (GH) and carbonate hardness/alkalinity (KH), and both can be very important.

    Read on to learn everything you need to know about water mineral levels.

    General Hardness (GH)

    General hardness measures the concentrations of mineral salts in your aquarium water. These minerals are magnesium (Mg) and calcium (Ca) ions, and they can be measured in degrees (dGH) or parts per million (ppm).

    A water GH level of 4-8dGH or 70-140 ppm is a suitable level for most freshwater fish tanks. However, this depends on the type of fish, invertebrates, and plants you keep.

    Carbonate Hardness (KH)

    Carbonate hardness refers to the measure of carbonate and bicarbonate levels in the water. This determines your water’s buffering capacity against pH crashes and swings. Unstable water quality can be very dangerous to many fish, so this is an important parameter to consider.

    Water pH levels change slightly throughout the day but within a certain range. This is a natural process, but it is dangerous if it happens too fast.

    The higher the KH, the higher your pH is likely to be, and also, the more stable your pH level will stay. On the other hand, a very low KH is typical in a tank with a low pH which is prone to fluctuations.

    However, a higher KH is not always ideal. High carbonate hardness makes it more difficult to adjust your pH levels. This can be a problem if you want to change your water parameters to keep a certain species of fish.

    When it comes to carbonate hardness, 3 dKH is a safe level, although many commercially bred aquarium fish are adaptable between 1 and 10 dKH.

    Does Water Hardness Really Matter?

    Different aquatic plants and fish species have evolved to live in the type of water found in their part of the world. The minerals that make water hard or soft are very important for healthy fish and plants, but the amount they need varies between species.

    Many aquarium fish are very adaptable to water hardness, especially when captive bred. However, it’s still a good idea to match the preferred natural habitats and water chemistry of your fish. Some species have very specific requirements and just won’t do well in the wrong water.

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    Most fish do well in slightly hard water, and many can adapt to even harder water parameters. However, few species will thrive in very hard water. African cichlids are a notable exception and a great example of fish that need very hard water.

    As you will learn later in this guide, you can change the water hardness in your aquarium to suit the types of fish you want to keep. However, it might be easier to match your fish to the kind of water you already have.

    How Does Water Hardness Affect Fish?

    Water hardness affects osmoregulation in fish. This impacts their ability to regulate salt and water in their bodies. Outside of their tolerance range, fish can become very stressed or even die.

    Carbonate Hardness (Kh)

    Earlier in this post, we learned that a low carbonate hardness (KH) allows your pH value to swing drastically, which can be stressful for your fish.

    Carbonate Hardness does not have the same physiological effects as general hardness, but the buffering capacity is key to maintaining a stable pH level and environment for your pets.

    General Hardness (GH)

    Fish need minerals, just like we do. Without them, normal bodily functions like growing and reproducing would be impossible.

    So, we know that incorrect carbonate and general hardness can be dangerous for fish, but what about the other life in our aquariums? Does hard water affect invertebrates and plants too?

    Low general hardness can be very dangerous for aquarium invertebrates. It can cause problems for molting shrimp and cause thin, weak shells on snails.

    Very soft water can also be dangerous for live aquarium plants, although many plants are also sensitive to high carbonate hardness. Some plant species, like Vallisneria, show a definite preference for harder water.

    How to Measure Your Water Chemistry

    You probably know that you should measure your aquarium water parameters regularly to be sure you are performing enough regular aquarium maintenance. However, aquarium water testing also allows you to monitor other important parameters like hardness.

    Unfortunately, simply testing your pH levels is not enough. pH, KH, and GH are often linked in nature, which means that water with a low pH tends to have a low GH and KH too.

    However, tap water can be different. Therefore, it is important to test both GH and KH, since they aren’t necessarily linked to pH.

    The good news is that the process is pretty much the same as measuring other water quality parameters like nitrates. Let’s take a look at the basic process of testing your hardness levels.

    Strip Tests

    Strip tests are super easy to use. Some all-in-one kits can be used to measure multiple parameters, including pH, GH, KH, nitrates, and nitrites.

    API Test Strips

    This is a basic test kit that are used in many pet stores. There are better options, but this is readily available at most stores

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    Simply dip the strip into your aquarium water and compare the colors on the strip with the example card to read your water parameters. Some aquarists even cut the strips in half to save a few bucks, but be sure to follow the instructions on your product for the most accurate results.

    Liquid Test Kits

    Liquid test kits are also very easy to use and even more fun! These tests use droplets of colorful liquid to measure the GH, KH, and other parameters of your aquarium water.

    Reading the Results

    We can put water hardness into different categories from very soft water, all the way up to ‘liquid rock’! Let’s take a look at five basic categories and their general hardness levels:

    1. Very soft water: 0-4 dGH /0-70 ppm

    Very soft water has low levels of dissolved calcium and magnesium. Most plants and animals will not do well in these conditions.

    1. Soft water: 4-8 dGH/70-140 ppm

    Many South American and Southeast Asian fish thrive in softer water. Softer water is also ideal for many freshwater plant species.

    1. Moderately hard water: 8-12 dGH/ 140-210 ppm

    Moderately hard water is a safe environment for most of the popular freshwater aquarium fish in the hobby.

    1. Hard water: 12-18 dGH/ 210-320 ppm

    Livebearers and other fish that enjoy moderately hard water can often adjust to hard water conditions.

    1. Very hard water: 18-30 dGH/ 320-530 ppm

    Very hard water is often known as ‘liquid rock’ because it contains high concentrations of minerals. Most freshwater fish will not thrive in very hard water, although cichlids from Central America and East Africa prefer these parameters.

    What Fish Are Good For Hard (And Soft) Water

    Let’s take a look at some popular examples of hard and soft water fish that you might want to keep in your home aquarium.

    Hard Water Fish Species

    Soft Water Fish Species

    How To Change Your Water Hardness

    It is possible to change your water hardness, but that is not always your best option. Stability is important, and when you start having to adjust levels, there is always the chance of human error.

    Inconsistent water parameters can be stressful for your fish. However, if your water is naturally soft and you want to keep African Cichlids, you’re going to need to increase your water hardness.

    Increasing Your Water Hardness

    Increasing general hardness is a matter of adding calcium and magnesium salts to the water in a safe and manageable way. Before you adjust your water hardness, make sure you have tested your GH, KH, and pH level.

    Let’s take a look at some simple methods of increasing water hardness.

    • Crushed Coral/Coral Sand

    Adding crushed coral is a great natural way to increase your water hardness. However, it is not easy to reach an exact level using this method.

    You can add crushed coral directly to your substrate or use it in your aquarium filter. It will act faster if you place it in a mesh bag in your filter where there is a constant flow of water.

    • Limestone Rock

    Another way to gradually increase your tank water hardness is to use certain types of rocks as your hardscape. Rocks like Texas Holey Rock are beautiful limestone-based rocks that are very popular. This rock is high in calcium carbonate, so it will increase the pH, Gh, and KH of your water over time.

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    Texas Holey Rock Natural Limestone

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    • Commercial Water Hardeners

    Purpose-made products like Seachem Equilibrium are available for managing your water hardness levels.

    Similarly, products like Seachem Alkaline Buffer are available for managing your carbonate hardness levels. These products are great because they allow more precise control.

    Decreasing Your Water Hardness

    Decreasing your water hardness can be achieved by reducing the concentrations of magnesium and calcium salts in the water. Read on to learn how to soften aquarium water.

    • RO/DI Water

    It is more difficult to soften aquarium water if you have very hard water. One way to achieve this is to start over with pure water and add the minerals that you need. Reverse osmosis deionized (RO/DI) water is neutral and contains no minerals.

    You can make your own RO/DI water at home using a reverse osmosis system. Buying one of these systems is a small investment, but they will pay for themselves in the long run.

    This pure water is extremely soft and has a neutral pH. It is not safe for your fish or plants until you have remineralized it with something like Seachem Equilibrium or mixed it with tap water.

    • Distilled Water

    Distilled water can be used in the same way as reverse osmosis water. However, you will still need to increase the total hardness of the water with magnesium and calcium carbonate compounds before it is suitable for keeping fish.

    A simple way to remineralize distilled and RO/DI water is to cut it with tap water. Simply add small amounts of tap water to the pure water until the desired water hardness level is reached.

    Your water will become harder over time if you are not performing regular water changes and simply topping up your tank with tap water. Test your water regularly and use the correct mixture of distilled and tap water each time you top up your tank to keep your levels stable.

    • Water Softening Pillows

    Water-softening pillows are another great option, and they are very easy to use. These pouches use a resin that attracts magnesium and calcium to remove them from the water.

    You will have less precise control when using this method, but it is very easy and works well for soft water fish like tetras and angelfish.

    • Peat Moss

    Peat moss can be used to lower pH levels in your fish tank. This organic material will leach tannins into the water, staining it yellow or darker.

    Peat moss can be effective for creating blackwater freshwater aquariums and softening your water to some degree, but it is not very effective as a water softener if you have very hard water.

    • Aquarium Soils and Driftwood

    Some aquarium soils, like Controsoil, can also effectively soften water, making them a great choice for planted tanks. Driftwood, almond leaves, and other plant materials that leach tannins and stain the water will lower the pH and hardness somewhat.

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    FAQs

    What Causes Water Hardness In Aquariums?

    Water hardness is the amount of dissolved calcium carbonate anions, and magnesium and calcium ions in the water. The hardness of water varies depending on where you live in the world and the kinds of rocks your water flows over before reaching your home.

    Does Aquarium Water Hardness Matter?

    Aquarium water hardness can be very important. Most aquarium fish are quite adaptable, but some species have specific requirements for survival and breeding.

    What Should Water Hardness Be For An Aquarium?

    The ideal water hardness varies depending on which kind of fish you keep. Most aquarium fish and plants will thrive in water with a general hardness (GH) of 4-8 degrees or 70-140 parts per million.

    What Should Water Hardness Be For An Aquarium?

    The ideal water hardness varies depending on which kind of fish you keep. Most aquarium fish and plants will thrive in water with a general hardness (GH) of 4-8 degrees or 70-140 parts per million.

    Does Water Hardness Affect Aquarium Fish?

    Water hardness has some important effects on a fish’s ability to live and grow, so fish can become sick in water that is too soft or too hard. Some fish will survive in water with an incorrect hardness but will not spawn or breed.

    Final Thoughts

    Understanding water hardness is important, especially if you want to keep fish or plants with specialized requirements. I recommend testing your local water parameters before you set up an aquarium. That way, you can choose the perfect species to match your conditions.

    However, it is possible to adjust your water hardness with the right materials, techniques, and a little practice. Just be sure to make your changes slowly and carefully to avoid stressing out your fishy friends!

    Do you have a hard or soft water fish tank? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

  • How Do Eels Reproduce? The Mystery Science Still Hasn’t Fully Solved

    How Do Eels Reproduce? The Mystery Science Still Hasn’t Fully Solved

    Eel reproduction is one of those topics where the more you dig in, the stranger and more fascinating it gets. I’ve kept eels in my saltwater tanks over the years, and even knowing the basic life history, it’s remarkable that despite centuries of scientific study, nobody has ever observed a European eel spawn in the wild. not once. The Sargasso Sea is where it’s believed to happen, but we’re still largely working from indirect evidence.

    This isn’t just an academic curiosity. It has real implications for eel conservation, and it helps explain some strange behaviors you’ll notice in eel species kept in the aquarium trade. Here’s what science actually knows, what it doesn’t, and why the eel reproduction question has stumped researchers for as long as it has.

    What Are Eels?

    If you’re not familiar at all with eels, then they’ll initially look otherworldly. Are they fish? Are they snakes? Or are they something new altogether?

    Don’t be fooled, these are actually thin, almost finless fish that belong to the Anguilliformes order. Within this scientific order are 8 suborders and almost 800 species! Both saltwater and freshwater eels belong to this scientific order, though not every fish that’s labeled as an ‘eel’ is a true eel!

    If you are familiar with eels at all, then you may have heard of the electric eel (Electrophorus spp.) which is capable of delivering a deadly shock. While these fish certainly look like true eels, they are actually more closely related to knife fish as members of the Gymnotiformes order.

    Fire Eel in driftwood

    Although freshwater eels and saltwater eels look very different from each other and their related genera, there are a few defining features that make them true eels of the Anguilliformes order.

    Anguilliformes are ray-finned fish. But unlike other fish, eels lack pelvic fins entirely and most species don’t have pectoral fins. Eels also have a conjoined dorsal and anal fin that makes a singular, long fin that extends across the latter half of their body. Interestingly, this evolution also allows these fish to swim backward. Another defining feature of eels is that some species have small scales while others have incorporated scales into their skin. Some may lack scales entirely.

    Anglers and other eel-handlers especially note their ability to produce slime, which is a defense mechanism against predators and pathogens. Eels have sharp teeth fixed in their mouths, with some species having a second jaw known as the pharyngeal jaw. The first set of jaws is thought to specialize in catching the prey while the second set processes the food and moves it along to the digestive tract.

    True eels can be found in freshwater and marine ecosystems around the world. Some species are catadromous which means that they migrate from one body of water to another. As we’ll see, some species of eel, especially those in the Anguillidae family, make extensive journeys from freshwater ecosystems to purely saltwater conditions.

    An example of a true eel is the European freshwater eel. This species of freshwater eel lacks scales and breathes through its skin. This unique ability makes them able to survive out of water for up to 48 hours! European freshwater eels can also bury themselves and hibernate in the mud over the winter months; this is also needed when their natural habitats dry out over the summer.

    Where Do They Come From?

    Fish have been around for a long time which means that they’ve been studied for a long time. So much so that even ancient Greek philosophers devoted their entire lives to understanding their origins, especially the beginnings of eels and their reproductive processes. Surprisingly, the great Aristotle contributed much thought to these lifecycles.

    According to Aristotle, eels materialized from mud and were actually a type of earthworm. This became a popular theory as no one had ever seen eels reproduce and there was no other reasonable explanation; this also eliminated the need to explain their apparent absence of reproductive organs.

    Aristotle Bust Photo

    It’s hard to believe that this exact explanation for eel reproduction persisted for over 2,000 years, but few dared to challenge the findings of Aristotle.

    It wasn’t until Pliny the Edler, a Roman naturalist and natural philosopher, theorized another answer to eel reproduction. He believed that new eels were born from the old shed skins of parent eels that scratched themselves on hard surfaces, like on the seafloor and on rocks. Each scraping would turn into a new eel.

    Other popular beliefs included eels being born from sea foam or from when sunlight reflected off the surface of the water in just the right way. Some even thought that eels hatched on the rooftops of great buildings or derived from the gills of other fish. The more absurd theories mentioned the involvement of beetles and hair from horses falling into the river.

    Many centuries later, famous psychoanalyst Sigmund Freud took a stab at uncovering the mystery of eel reproduction. In 1876, while a medical student at the University of Vienna, Freud bought as many eels as possible. After 400 dissections, Freud finally located the male eel’s gonads deep within the abdominal cavity, dispelling any previous theories!

    Geography

    This was a major breakthrough in understanding eel reproduction and their lifecycle.

    You might be saying to yourself that you’ve never actually seen an eel in the wild. This isn’t because eels aren’t abundant, but rather because they’re reclusive and nocturnal.

    When not migrating thousands of miles, these fish like to stay as elusive as possible, cramming themselves into tight caves and rock formations, burying themselves in the substrate, or even living together in communities known as eel pits.

    In freshwater ecosystems, they can be found on nearly every continent excluding Antarctica in rivers, lakes, streams, and even ponds. Keep in mind that some eels are able to move across land, allowing them to enter isolated areas of water. Marine eels have a much larger range and can be found in most regions of the ocean at varying depths.

    How Do They Reproduce?

    The long-asked and long-evaded question: how do eels reproduce? Even today, after thousands of theories and anatomical dissections, there are many unknowns about the lives of eels.

    To help understand how eels reproduce, we need to first look at the 5 incredibly complex stages of an eel’s life cycle.

    5 Stages Of Their Life Cycle

    The lifecycle of an eel is divided into 5 distinct stages. Each one marks different biological and sexual maturity levels of the eel. Most notably, sex organs develop in the later stages.

    1. Larvae
    2. Glass Eel
    3. Elver
    4. Yellow Eel
    5. Silver Eel

    You can see an illustration of the life cycle in the photo below (Wikipedia photo source)

    Eel Life Cycle

    The Larvae

    The first stage of an eel’s lifecycle is the larval stage, individually known as leptocephalus. In this phase, the baby eel emerges from its fertilized egg in or near its species’ breeding grounds.

    Leptocephalus are largely transparent. They have radically compressed bodies with minimal muscles and organs. One of their most defining features is a simple stripe that runs down the middle of their pane-like body. During the next metamorphosis period from larva to glass eel, the transparent gel changes into solid adult tissue.

    Interestingly, leptocephali feed on marine snow and other organic matter to facilitate growth. They are largely planktonic and depend on ocean currents to get them to where they need to go, mostly estuaries and other safe coastal ecosystems. Once in an intertidal region, they begin their transformation into glass eels.

    Glass

    The transformation from leptocephalus to glass eel is both a geographical and physical change. As leptocephali, eel larvae live in the ocean. As they begin their metamorphosis into glass eels, they must make their way into protected estuaries where freshwater and saltwater ecosystems mix. This is a challenging move and many eels do not survive due to their lack of control over their navigation.

    Glass Eel

    Physically, leptocephali start to change into more recognizable glass eels. One of the major changes during this life stage is the development of pigmentation which takes over the previous clear gel. But underneath their skin, there is another major change happening.

    A regular fish’s body needs to osmotically adapt to changes in salinity, like the differences between freshwater and saltwater conditions; typically, when marine fish enter brackish water, their cells begin to swell as there is a difference in osmotic pressure. Eels have evolved to combat this problem with specialized kidneys that are able to retain more salt to better match their internal salinity to their external salinity.

    Elvers

    The next stage of an eel’s life cycle is the elver stage. This is the pre-adult stage that occurs once the eel is about 2 to 3 years old. The elver will have dark yellow pigmentation and reach up to 8 inches in length. If they’ve not already made their way upstream to freshwater rivers and streams, then young elvers will begin their journey.

    At this point, the eels are omnivores and will try to eat anything they can fit into their mouth. This largely includes crustaceans, worms, and insects. Elvers and the next lifecycle, yellow eels, can stay in these freshwater upstream regions of rivers for up to 20 years until they are mature enough to migrate back out to the ocean. Many eel species return to the Sargasso Sea to spawn, though this varies by species.

    Sadly, elvers are a very popular dish that has caused issues with eel sustainability in the past.

    Yellow

    Before becoming a silver eel, or an adult eel, elvers must first become a yellow eel. This is when the pigmentation turns even darker and their true adult colors start to form, including brown, olive green, yellow, and black. These colors will largely depend on environmental factors, such as temperature and turbidity. At this point, juvenile eels can measure over 30 inches in length.

    Yellow eels will continue to live in and move from one freshwater ecosystem to the next until they’re ready to transform into their final life stage, the silver eel.

    Silver or Adult

    Believe it or not, not much is known about adult eels, also known as silver eels. Scientists aren’t sure what determines when eels transition into their final form. This is even more complicated by being unable to tell how old an eel is by its appearance alone at this point. One thing is understood though, eels aren’t considered fully mature until they develop sex organs in the last stage of their life cycle as an adult eel.

    As adult eels, males can reach 2 feet in length while females can grow up to 4 or more feet. They change drastically in color from dark natural colors to steel silver. Only as adults is when eels are mature enough to make the trip to the Sargasso Sea or other spawning grounds depending on the species.

    How Do They Mate In The Wild

    When talking about eel reproduction, you’ll often hear about the Sargasso Sea. The Sargasso Sea encompasses Bermuda (including the infamous Bermuda Triangle), the Azores, and the West Indies. This area of the Atlantic Ocean is a 2-million-square-mile span of saltwater that is home to the breeding grounds of millions of eels. Most notably, freshwater European and American eels make this thousand-mile journey.

    When male and female eels arrive at their specific breeding grounds, it is believed that eels reproduce through external fertilization. This means that the females release millions of eggs that then get fertilized by the males’ sperm. Sadly, the adult eels die soon after. The eggs then get fertilized and repeat the previous lifecycles, making their way back to North America and Europe respectively. Other species of eel have different, yet still specific breeding grounds.

    Different Types

    Remember, there are 800 species of known eel around the world! Imagine how many there are undiscovered if scientists couldn’t even identify their sexual organs for thousands of years.

    The truth is that a lot is still unknown about eels and new species are still being discovered. Even the species that we have documented are not fully understood.

    Here are some of the most well-known species of freshwater eel.

    European

    The European eel is a common type of freshwater eel that can live to be 85 years old in the wild and 55 years old in captivity! Unfortunately, they are listed as a critically endangered species due to overfishing, parasites, and other human activity.

    These fish feature a pair of small pectoral fins and have the typical snake-like body. They grow to between 2 to 3 feet in length. As catadromous fish, European eels spend their adult lives in freshwater rivers and streams throughout much of Europe and migrate to saltwater conditions to reproduce. This particular species travels to the Sargasso Sea in the Atlantic Ocean.

    Interestingly, European eels don’t stop traveling upstream until they’re sexually mature. They’ve been found in seasonal ecosystems that dry up over hot months and in isolated lakes and ponds, confirming their ability to travel over land and to survive for extended periods buried in the substrate.

    Many breeding programs have been installed to help declining numbers of the European eel with slight success using hormones and controlled conditions.

    Shortfin and Longfin

    Two more common types of eels originate from New Zealand: the longfin eel (Anguilla dieffenbachii) and the shortfin eel (Anguilla australis). The longfin eel is endangered while the shortfin eel is near threatened.

    Like European eels, longfin and shortfin eels can live for a considerably long time. They are found in freshwater streams and lakes and make their way to regions in the Pacific Ocean for spawning. Longfin eels are found further inland in New Zealand than shortfin eels, but shortfin eels can also be found in several other countries across the South Pacific.

    These two fish also have different breeding grounds. Longfin eels travel to areas near Tonga while shortfin eels migrate to deep waters around New Caledonia. Every female can produce up to 20 million eggs!

    Longfin eels are aptly named for their lengthy fins. Their dorsal fin is almost two-thirds the length of their body. Shortfin eels have a similar appearance but have a fin that starts farther away from the head. Another difference is that when a longfin eel bends, wrinkles form on its skin; a shortfin eel’s skin will remain smooth. Females are notably larger and live longer than males.

    Japanese

    Japanese eels (Anguilla japonica) are mainly found in Japan, Korea, China, and Vietnam. Like the other types of eel on this list, Japanese eels also spawn in the sea but spend a large majority of their lives in freshwater.

    When the time comes, Japanese eels travel to the North Equatorial Current in the western North Pacific. Throughout this long journey, Japanese eels do not eat. Instead, they collect all the nutrients they need through a specialized oil before making the trip.

    These fish feature a dull grey, brown, and greenish dorsal on top of a white underbelly, though these colors depend on environmental factors.

    Sadly, Japanese eel populations are decreasing due to changing ocean temperatures, habitat loss, and fluctuating salinities. Japenese eels are also a popular culinary dish, popularly known as unagi, though regulations have been implemented to reduce overharvesting and to encourage supplementation. As a result, they are listed as an endangered species.

    The African Longfin

    The African longfin eel (Anguilla mossambica) is another common type of eel, though not much is known about them. They have olive, gray, and black bodies with a light underside. They prefer fast currents in the western Indian Ocean off of Africa.

    They eat a variety of fish and invertebrates, but will also scavenge.

    Difference Between Freshwater and Saltwater

    There are freshwater eels and there are saltwater eels, but most freshwater eels spend some time in saltwater conditions. Where marine eels live in the ocean can vary, with some preferring coastal lagoons and others enjoying the open sea. Some species even dig into the mud and sand.

    Snowflake Eel in Aquarium

    The major difference between freshwater and saltwater eels is body texture and appearance. Freshwater eels have a firmer texture, while saltwater eels are softer and leaner. Most saltwater eels are also much more colorful than freshwater eels, making them a very popular addition to the marine aquarium.

    For the adventurous eel connoisseur, freshwater and marine species also have different tastes.

    How Do They Survive Migration?

    You might be wondering how eels survive for thousands of miles as they transition from freshwater to saltwater. What do they eat? When do they sleep? How do they know where to go?

    In fact, most eels don’t eat on their way to their final destination. In most cases, their stomach deteriorates. The blood vessels around the swim bladder increase for additional support while swimming. Their eyes also double in size, which increases sensitivity to blue waves of light, increasing their ability to see in the dark. Their kidneys also adapt to hold more salt to increase internal salinity levels to compensate for their surrounding salinity changes.

    European eel migration is one of the longest migrations documented by any marine creature. They typically start their migration in autumn and arrive at the Sargasso Sea in late winter and spring. This journey is approximately 3,000 miles long and can range from 80 to 170 days.

    It is believed that eels use every sense they have to navigate their journey. It’s also strongly believed that they rely on lunar cycles and wait for the perfect conditions in regard to temperature, salinity, tides, and currents, to make their move.

    What About Captivity?

    Because of their complex lifecycles, eels have not been bred in the home aquarium. Many researchers and hobbyists have attempted artificial breeding, but nothing can replicate the years spent in freshwater, transition to saltwater, and external fertilization.No one has ever seen captive eels breeding in a home aquarium. They have a complex life cycle, and their sexual organs only develop at the last stage. Also, they spend months and years traveling to the spawning ground present in the Sargasso Sea, where once eel eggs and sperm are realized, the fish die. Those free-floating eggs get externally fertilized.

    Indian Mud Moray Eel

    That isn’t to say that researchers aren’t close, though. In fact, some species of eel have been successfully bred in closely monitored systems with the help of hormones and fluctuating parameters. However, the full lifecycle of an eel has never been achieved in captivity.Many people tried different artificial ways to breed mature eels in a home aquarium but to no avail.

    Their Lifespan

    Eels are very hard to kill. They are built to withstand extreme differences in environmental conditions and have a very long lifespan. Their blood is poisonous and they have been known to swim for hours on end even with their head cut off.

    However, any traces of toxic ammonia, nitrite, or nitrate in the aquarium can cause your freshwater or saltwater eel to succumb to unfavorable environmental factors.

    FAQs

    Do They Have A Reproductive System?

    This exact question puzzled philosophers and scientists for hundreds of years. Even after thousands of dissections, it was unclear how eels could reproduce if young males lacked sexual organs. However, it isn’t until males and females reach full sexual maturity that they develop these organs deep within their abdominal cavities.

    So, yes, eels have a reproductive system but it doesn’t develop or become evident until much later in their lives.

    What About In Captivity?

    Eels have not been fully bred in captivity, though some life stages have been achieved. It is too difficult to replicate external fertilization where a female releases millions of eggs and has them fertilized by a male. It is also impossible to recreate the incredible growth and migration these fish make from freshwater to saltwater to their spawning grounds over the course of decades.

    Do They Lay Eggs Or Give Live Birth?

    Yes, female eels lay eggs which males then fertilize through external fertilization. As soon as they are done spawning, the mature eels die. A fun fact is that electric eels (not true eels) reproduce during the dry season by the female depositing eggs into a saliva nest made by the male.

    As soon as they have done spawning, the mature will die.

    Unlike real eels, electric eels reproduce during the dry season. The females deposit the eggs in a hidden nest made of saliva by the males.

    Closing Thoughts

    Eels are some of the most complex aquatic creatures but you wouldn’t know that from their simple snake-like appearance. For years, it was impossible to know the complex life stages these fish go through while transitioning from freshwater to saltwater. While we’re still not exactly sure how eels go through these stages and make their migrations, we will make those dissections over time.

    Do you have any theories about how eels reproduce? Let us know your thoughts below! Let us know your thoughts below! Subscribe to our YouTube channel for more crazy videos.

  • 7 African Cichlid Tank Mates That Can Handle the Aggression (and the Water)

    7 African Cichlid Tank Mates That Can Handle the Aggression (and the Water)

    African cichlid setups are one of the most visually impressive things you can do in freshwater, but they’re genuinely aggressive environments. and tank mate selection is where most people get tripped up. After keeping MBunas and other Rift Lake species over the years, my rule of thumb is this: any non-cichlid tank mate needs to handle both the water parameters (hard, alkaline, pH 7.8. 8.5) AND the aggression level. That combination narrows the list considerably.

    The good news is there are species that reliably work. including Synodontis catfish, which are native to the same African rift lake systems and make excellent natural companions. Here are 7 choices worth considering, with honest notes on each.

    Are you looking to add some variety and โ€˜oomphโ€™ to your African cichlid tank? With the right companions, an African cichlid tank can provide a vibrant display of unique colors, life-like behavior, and fun interactions. Check out the top 7 ideal African Cichlid tank mates โ€•all of which are sure to make any fish enthusiast smile! Each companion has been researched and vetted in order to ensure that they fit well with African cichlids while taking into account their specific needs so that you have peace of mind knowing your fish will have a safe environment in which to thrive.

    Key Takeaways

    • African cichlids are aggressive fish that need to be kept in water parameters that resemble those in their natural habitat.
    • Not many species can be kept in the same tank as African cichlids due to their extreme aggression and preferred water conditions. Even closely related species of African cichlid might cause problems with each other.
    • There are a few limited species that can safely be kept with African cichlids as tank mates.

    Introduction To African Cichlids

    When deciding what kind of fish to keep in your freshwater aquarium, you’ll be forced to choose between a community tank or an aggressive one. Those who don’t choose to go with community oftentimes find themselves with an impressive African cichlid setup.

    It’s no wonder why African cichlids aquariums are so popular. These fish are big and beautiful and have interesting behaviors. Though they require a bigger tank than their community counterparts, their care requirements are relatively easy and straightforward.

    African cichlids originate from some of the oldest freshwater lakes in the world, including Lake Tanganyika, Lake Malawi, and Lake Victoria. Many of the species in these African lakes have undergone divergent evolution over millions of years. This implies that one common ancestor evolved and adapted to different depths, parameters, and conditions within these ecosystems to create new species.

    There are thought to be as many as 2,500 known members of the Cichlidae family around the world, with many unnamed and yet to be discovered.

    Stocking A Tank

    With so many species to choose from, it’s no wonder that the African cichlid quickly made its way into the home aquarium hobby.

    African Cichlids in a Rock Aquarium

    One of the most common African cichlid setups is a 55-gallon tank featuring several lake species or a variety of one species. This tank should have good filtration as these fish can grow to a reasonable size. Decoration should be minimal yet sturdy, as cichlids are notorious for rearranging their environments; natural rocks, driftwood, and clay pots are preferred for shelter.

    Most hobbyists use a bare bottom or crushed coral substrate that helps boost pH levels. African cichlids originate from hard, basic water parameters that need to be replicated in the home aquarium. Many hobbyists achieve this through a calcium carbonate substrate, though pH-boosting powders and liquids are regularly used as well.

    Once the tank has been set up and cycled, it’s time to start thinking about which species you want to keep in the tank. While many cichlid enthusiasts only keep different types of cichlid in their tanks, others attempt to keep other fish species altogether.

    There are a few things to keep in mind when keeping either other cichlid tank mates or other species, like tank size, water parameters, and aggression.

    Things To Consider

    It’s important to ask the question of if and why you want to keep species other than African cichlids. These are beautiful, active fish that naturally provide variety and excitement. Introducing other species is always a risk due to the natural aggression of cichlids.

    Cichlids are large, aggressive fish that need adequate swimming space and ground to claim territory. The bare minimum tank size recommended for a cichlid tank is 55 gallons, with a 75-gallon tank setup providing much more comfortable space. Based on the size and aggression of individual fish, this may or may not be enough buffering to keep fish safe from one another, which could limit the number of potential tank mates.

    If planning to keep tank mates outside the Cichlidae family, it’s recommended to have an aquarium that is at least 125 gallons. As we’ll see, many potential cichlid tank mates grow to extreme sizes on their own, requiring a larger tank.

    It’s also important to consider the natural habitat of African cichlids. Though they come from isolated ecosystems, conditions change across different regions of the given lake. In general, African cichlids prefer hard, basic water parameters. This is in contrast to most another freshwater tropical fish that originate from soft, acidic conditions.

    Lastly, aggression will determine which tank mates do and do not work. This is true for the demeanor of the individual cichlid and given tank mate.

    The Best Tank Mates

    Though African cichlids are regularly kept in cichlid-only tanks, there are a few options once tank size, water conditions, and aggression levels have been matched. Even if you choose to keep only African cichlids, there are still a few considerations when putting different species together.

    We have a video below from our YouTube channel. We go over more detail in our blog post below. If you like our content, make sure to subscribe. We post new videos every week!

    Here are some of the best tank mate options available for African cichlids tank setups!

    1. Other Types

    The best tank mates for African cichlids are other African cichlids. However, there are some hard rules that need to be considered when mixing these fish.

    Blue Peacock Cichlid

    African cichlids originate from massive lakes where varieties of the same species might not ever interact. Now take into consideration the differences in appearance and behavior between entire species found at separate ends of the given lake. There are simply too many differences between African cichlids to say they are all compatible.

    The key differences between these fish are size, activity, and aggression. Some fish stay relatively still while others zoom around the tank. Though all cichlids have an aggressive nature, some actively seek out fights while others wait to defend their territories.

    There are many species of African cichlids (and many more yet to be discovered). Some of the most popular ones are from the following genera:

    • Melanochromis
    • Pseudotropheus
    • Aulonocara
    • Neolamprologus
    • Sciaenochromis
    • Haplochromis
    • Cyphotilapia

    It is very common to keep species-only tanks featuring peacock cichlids (Aulonocara spp.), hap cichlids (Haplochromis), or Mbuna cichlids which is a general group of cichlids from Lake Malawi. Other hobbyists pick specific regions of African lakes and stock according to the endemic species of that area.

    There are many combinations that do and do not work. Some tried, and true tank mate pairings don’t work because of an especially aggressive fish. Tank mates should be researched thoroughly and added together for the best chances of success. It also helps to pick fish that are generally the same size and different colors.

    How Many Should You Keep Together?

    African cichlids are big fish that need space. How many cichlids you can keep per tank will vary, especially if keeping other fish species. However, a typical 55-gallon cichlid aquarium setup can hold about 10 to 15 cichlids.

    2. Jewel Cichlid

    Female Jewel Cichlid
    • Scientific name: Hemichromis bimaculatus
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Western Africa
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    The jewel cichlid is one of the most attractive African cichlids available. These fish are bright red with small, iridescent blue flecks.

    Though jewel cichlids are a type of African cichlid, they’re not compatible with most other endemic species. This is because these otherwise semi-aggressive fish turn into overly aggressive fish whenever they spawn. Jewel cichlids have known fin nippers and will fight to the death to defend their young.

    There is some debate about whether or not jewel cichlids should be kept with other cichlids. There is a lot that can and has gone wrong. However, hobbyists have found success keeping jewel cichlids in the same tank with more aggressive African cichlids, like Mbuna species.

    3. Paratilapia polleni

    • Scientific name: Paratilapia polleni
    • Temperament: Aggressive to smaller fish
    • Origin: Madagascar
    • Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore (naturally a piscivore)
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Sometimes called the starry night cichlid (video source), Paratilapia polleni is a relatively peaceful species of East African cichlid. These speckled near-black fish are endangered and the last remaining species of their genus. This can make them relatively difficult and expensive to obtain in the hobby.

    Paratilapia polleni are large fish that are mainly piscivores in the wild, meaning that most of their diet is made up of smaller fish. The problem is that these African cichlids can grow to be a foot in length, leaving many fish to be smaller than them. As long as tank mates can’t easily fit into the mouth of your Paratilapia polleni, there shouldn’t be too many problems keeping them with other African cichlids.

    4. Synodontis Catfish

    Pictus Catfish Swimming
    • Scientific name: Synodontis spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Africa
    • Size: Varies
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.5-9.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Cichlids aren’t the only fish present in African lakes. Synodontis catfish are found in central and west African ecosystems, with notable populations in Lake Tanganyika and Lake Malawi. Some popular species for the cichlid aquarium include:

    • Cuckoo catfish (Synodontis multipunctatus)
    • Dwarf Lake/False cuckoo Synodontis (Synodontis petricola)
    • Malawi squeaker (Synodontis njassae)

    These catfish are ideal as they come from the same ecosystems as cichlids, but at different depths; Synodontis catfish live on the bottom while cichlids stay higher up in the water column. In the aquarium, these fish need to be given plenty of hiding places. They also prefer to be in small shoals or at least 3 or 4.

    5. Rainbowfish

    Lake Tebera Rainbowfish
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Australia and New Guinea
    • Size: 4-5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    An unlikely pairing, rainbowfish and African cichlids have been known to live harmoniously together. Rainbowfish are large and fast yet peaceful fish that can easily outmaneuver or intimidate a cichlid when in a school with others.

    Their size, speed, and tolerance to more basic water conditions make rainbowfish a great potential tank mate for African cichlids. Rainbowfish can be thought of as a dither fish species for cichlids as they lessen aggression and encourage natural behavior.

    Not all rainbowfish can be tank mates for African cichlids, though. Boeseman’s rainbowfish (Melanotaenia boesemani) is the best species to pick.

    6. Pleco Fish

    Blue Eye Pleco
    • Scientific name: Hypostomus spp., Ancistrus spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: Varies
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 7.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    Pleco species aren’t usually recommended for aquarium use, but they tend to make perfect tank mate options for a cichlid aquarium. These South American fish have been bred in the aquarium to endure various water parameters, including those harder and more basic ones preferred by African cichlids.

    Plecos are armored fish that spend most of their time hidden under rocks and branches on the substrate floor. While these fish have excellent camouflage, chosen plecos should still be several inches in length to be able to defend themselves from especially aggressive cichlids.

    Common plecos kept in cichlid tank setups include the common pleco (Hypostomus plecostomus) and some bristlenose species (Ancistrus spp.).

    7. Red Tail Shark

    What Does A Redtail Shark Look Like
    • Scientific name: Epalzeorhynchos bicolor
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive to aggressive
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF

    The red-tail shark is a problematic fish within the tropical community fish hobby. They are often misidentified as calmer and more peaceful rainbow sharks (Epalzeorhynchos frenatum), leaving unknowing hobbyists with very aggressive fish as they can be incompatible tank mates.

    Red-tail sharks are small and fast. They can easily find coverage in a sheltered area from a predator, though they’re very likely to try to fight back. These freshwater sharks are extremely territorial and have successfully been kept with some of the less aggressive species of an African cichlid.

    The problem is that redtail sharks can’t tolerate a high pH level. The red tail shark originates from detritus-rich freshwater rivers and streams in Southeast Asia, which is a very different environment from that of African cichlid species. To make these two work as tank mates, the pH must stay at the upper range for the red-tail shark and the lower range for the African cichlid at about 7.5.

    Fish To Avoid

    Unfortunately, there are more fish that can’t be added to African cichlid tanks than there are good tank mates. Many fish available in the hobby can’t tolerate the hard and basic water that African cichlids need. On top of that, cichlids try to kill almost every small and docile fish that comes near them. Both these factors considered leaves very few tank mate options available.

    Still, some fish species should be avoided entirely.

    Most Community Freshwater Fish

    As mentioned before, most community freshwater fish are incompatible with African cichlid species. This is largely due to differences in preferred water parameters and aggression levels.

    School of Rasboras

    Most freshwater fish originate from South America or Southeast Asia where water is very soft and acidic. This is very different from the higher hardness and pH levels preferred by African cichlids.

    A freshwater fish tank is also set up much differently than one meant for cichlids. Freshwater fish love plenty of hiding spots with natural decor like live plants. While cichlids come from a very open and rocky terrain, freshwater fish like to hide in and around vegetation.

    Lastly, many freshwater fish have peaceful demeanors. They rely on schooling behaviors to keep them safe from predators instead of being actively aggressive. Cichlids establish territories they will defend to death, especially during spawning periods, and won’t hesitate to attack and kill other fish.

    Goldfish

    Goldfish cannot be kept with any tropical fish, including African cichlids. Goldfish are coldwater fish with very exact and limited tank mates due to their preference for low temperatures and their high waste output. On top of that, many fancy goldfish are poor swimmers that would easily get beat up by an African cichlid.

    Koi

    For the same reasons why goldfish can’t be African cichlid tank mates, koi should also be avoided. Koi are coldwater fish that need low temperatures and good filtration due to their high waste output. Due to their size and activity level, they are best kept in pond settings.

    Corydoras Catfish

    Corydoras catfish might seem like a good tank mate option for African cichlids due to their speed and safety in numbers as bottom feeders, but they are not. Corydoras largely originate from blackwater ecosystems throughout South America. In addition to their preference for softer and acid water, they also prefer lower water temperatures which are incompatible with cichlids.

    Corydoras also stay relatively small, making them easy to eat for larger fish despite being kept in big schools.

    American Cichlids

    While many cichlids are native to Africa, an entirely different selection of fish is available from South America, including Central America. Some of these fish include members of the Mikrogeophagus, Apistogramma, and Symphysodon genera.

    Many South American cichlids, especially dwarf cichlids, can be kept with freshwater community species due to their generally peaceful demeanors. This is in direct contrast to African cichlids’ aggressive and incompatible temperament. As species from South America, these fish also prefer different water parameters from their African counterparts.

    While it is usually a hard no to keep African and South American cichlids together, hobbyists have succeeded in keeping some species together. This should only be attempted by expert cichlid-keepers.

    Final Thoughts

    African cichlids are large, beautiful fish that can quickly fill up an aquarium. The problem is that not many suitable tank mates can be safely kept with them, deterring some hobbyists from keeping a species-only setup. Even then, some African cichlids have problems with each other, which can lead to gruesome death.

    Luckily, several species have been found to be good tank mates for African cichlids. Long-term success will largely depend on the individual personalities of the fish, though.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Oscar Tank Mates: 10 Fish That Can Actually Hold Their Own

    Oscar Tank Mates: 10 Fish That Can Actually Hold Their Own

    Oscars are the fish that eat your other fish. I say that upfront because the number one mistake I see with oscar tank mates is people underestimating just how large and predatory these cichlids get. A juvenile oscar at the fish store looks manageable. by the time it hits 10 to 12 inches in a year or two, it will eat anything that fits in its mouth and bully anything that doesn’t. That means tank mates need to be big, tough, and ideally from similar South American river environments. I’ve seen oscars housed with small plecos, tetras, and even medium-sized cichlids. it rarely ends well. The picks that actually work long-term share one trait: they’re large enough that the oscar doesn’t see them as food and confident enough not to get pushed around. Here are 10 that have the best track record.

    Key Takeaways

    • Oscar fish are one of the most exciting freshwater fish to keep in the aquarium hobby.
    • Oscars are large fish that aren’t usually kept with other fish due to their size and behavior.
    • A few fish species make great oscar tank mates as long as the tank size and filtration can accommodate them.
    • Oscar fish should never be kept in community tanks and should be considered a type of monster fish instead.

    Introduction To Oscar Fish

    Before we jump into the best tank mates for Oscars, we need to understand how oscar fish behave by themselves and with others. These are one of the most dynamic and charismatic fish in the freshwater aquarium hobby and are often referred to as water puppies.

    The oscar fish is a large species of South American cichlid scientifically known as Astronotus ocellatus1. These fish are regularly sold as juveniles when they are only just a couple of inches big. Their bright colors and ‘easy’ care requirements make them popular among unknowing beginner hobbyists. The truth is that oscar fish can grow to be over 18 inches long and live to be 20 years old.

    Oscar fish are not beginner fish and should only be kept in large tank setups. That means that adding tank mates would require an even bigger setup.

    Tank Requirements

    Alone, an oscar fish requires a 75-gallon tank setup. A 125-gallon aquarium is preferred to give your fish more room to swim and to keep water parameters balanced. Oscar fish are messy eaters and can create a lot of waste, so a large and efficient filtration system is definitely required.

    Otherwise, oscar fish have simple tank requirements. They need some structure for protection in the form of rocks or driftwood. A sandy substrate is preferred to allow your fish to burrow and arrange its home as it sees fit. Regular tank maintenance is a must to keep waste levels down.

    As you can see, oscar fish are big, messy fish. Add more oscars or other fish species into the mix and you’re looking at a relatively demanding system. Many hobbyists are successful at keeping other fish with oscars despite their needs, though.

    Do They Need Tank Mates?

    The question at hand is, do oscar fish even need other tank mates at all?

    The answer is no.

    Oscar fish don’t get lonely and can happily entertain themselves. As mentioned before, these fish are the puppies of the freshwater aquarium hobby and can be personally interacted with in ways that can’t be done with other species.

    There are a few ways that oscar fish can be given enrichment:

    1) Create a dynamic aquarium setup. One of the best ways to keep your oscar fish engaged is by giving it an intricate home. Use rocks and driftwood to create burrows and tunnels. Regularly shift items around to keep your fish guessing what comes next without kicking up the substrate too much. This gives your fish different ways to recreate and rearrange its new home.

    2) Introduce new items. On top of moving objects around, add new pieces and remove old ones. Some hobbyists even add cheap live plants that can be uprooted and eaten for an additional treat. Other alternatives include plastic floating balls and air stones.

    3) Feed live food. Another great way to enrich your oscar fish is by giving live food every now and then. These freshwater fish have a big appetite and will eat even when they’re not hungry, though we don’t recommend overfeeding them! Oscar fish will happily take worms, brine shrimp, and even live fish and snails; use caution when introducing live fish and snails, as they can carry parasites.

    4) Make feeding time exciting in addition to feeding live food and make dry foods exciting to eat. Oscar fish are known for waiting at the surface of the water for food and responding to objects (including fingers) entering the tank. Some Oscars can be trained to do simple tricks before they are fed. Food can also be placed in feeding mechanisms that make the fish work for its meal.

    5) Add tank mates. Lastly, oscar tank mates may be added to the aquarium, including other Oscars. This provides constant interaction and reaction between the fish.

    Top 10

    If you have the space and filtration to consider possible tank mates for oscar fish, then you will need to decide which species best fit your system. Oscar fish aren’t particularly aggressive fish, but they need to be paired with large species that can tolerate being investigated and nudged from time to time.

    Here are some of the best oscar tank mates available for a large freshwater fish tank setup!

    1. Other Types

    Tiger Oscar Fish
    • Scientific name: Astronotus ocellatus
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 18 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult

    Oscar fish might not seem like schooling fish, but they can sometimes be found in small groups throughout their natural habitat in the Amazon River basin. These fish can be kept in a loose school setting, given the right aquarium conditions.

    By themselves, oscar fish do not appear to be schooling fish at all. They happily explore the tank by themselves and feel comfortable out in the front of the aquarium alone. But given the space and the numbers, oscar fish will move together in a loose school.

    This is best achieved in a large tank with similar-sized fish introduced together.

    What Size Tank Do You Need For 2?

    It is not recommended to keep only 2 Oscars together. It is very difficult to tell males apart from females, which could lead to a combination of two males. While not overly aggressive fish, two male oscar fish will definitely fight.

    Unless the two fish are a known breeding pair, oscar fish should only be kept by themselves or in a group.

    How Many Can Live Together?

    Given unlimited space, there is no limit to how many oscar fish can live together. Eventually, even a large group would dissipate into smaller groupings.

    For a captive-kept group, 7 oscar fish is ideal. This will require at least a 300-gallon tank.

    There is a big difference in temperament between a solitary oscar and a shoal of Oscar. Oscars that live alone are very playful and responsive to their owner’s actions. A group of Oscars is much mellower and uniform in their intentions.

    2. Blood Parrots

    Blood Parrots in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Hybrid
    • Temperament: Semi-aggresssive
    • Origin: Not naturally occurring
    • Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Temperature: 72-80ยฐ F
    • Difficulty to breed: Mostly infertile

    Not the most popular oscar pairing; the blood parrot is extremely popular on its own. This is a hybrid species created by selectively breeding different types of cichlid, mainly species from Central America. Blood parrots are largely infertile as a result.

    The problem with blood parrots as tank mates for oscar fish is the difference in demeanor. Blood parrots are physically inflated and have limited movement and speed. Oscar fish have strong tail fins that can easily overcome a blood parrot.

    Still, some hobbyists have made this pairing work as long as neither of them is an overly aggressive fish.

    3. Silver Dollars

    Silver Dollar Fish
    • Scientific name: Metynnis spp.
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast South America
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • pH: 5.0-7.0
    • Temperature: 72-77ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Easy

    If you’re looking for tank mates that will form true schools, then silver dollars are a good choice for an oscar tank. Beware that these peaceful fish get much bigger than you might expect, with individuals growing to be 6 inches each. This means that a school of six can quickly max out a big tank.

    It’s also important to note that silver dollars are active fish. They might have a small minimum tank size on their own, but they excel when given plenty of horizontal space to swim.

    Silver dollars are one of the best fish species for Oscars due to their size and agility. They are also exclusively herbivores, which can make feeding them and your Oscars separately that much easier.

    4. Green Terror

    Green Terror Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Andinoacara rivulatus
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Southeast South America
    • Size: 8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-80ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The green terror cichlid is similar in shape, size, and needs to the oscar fish. These two fish have similar demeanors, which helps prevent bullying; juvenile green terror cichlids are more likely to get picked on by older Oscars, so it’s recommended to get them both while they’re the same size.

    In most cases, a green terror cichlid and oscar is the best combination available without having a monster fish tank. A 125-gallon tank will fit both of these fish very comfortably. However, temperaments between individual fish can vary, so it’s important to have a backup plan if one needs to be removed.

    5. Jack Dempsey Fish

    <a href=Jack Dempsey Fish” class=”wp-image-553072″/>
    • Scientific name: Rocio octofasciatum
    • Temperament: Aggressive
    • Origin: Central America
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6.5-8.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    The Jack Dempsey cichlid is one of the most popular and well-known species of freshwater fish available. These are big, colorful fish that have fierce personalities. There are several varieties of Jack Dempsey available for even more heightened coloration.

    Jack Dempsey cichlids are a good tank mate option for most oscar setups. These are aggressive fish that grow to be around the same size as Oscars and can hold their own in a fight. Still, fighting is not ideal and can lead to injury and eventual death.

    The best way to increase compatibility between a Jack Dempsey cichlid and an oscar is by picking individuals that are similar in size and introducing them into the aquarium at the same time. This leaves equal opportunity for territories to be claimed.

    Also, do not buy a breeding pair of Jack Dempsey as they will become incredibly aggressive toward all other fish in the aquarium.

    6. Giant Gourami

    Giant Gourami Fish
    • Scientific name: Osphronemus goramy
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Size: 18+ inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 200 gallons
    • Diet: Herbivore
    • pH: 6.0-8.0
    • Temperature: 68. 86ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult

    The giant gourami isn’t commonly seen in the aquarium hobby anymore, but–if you’re able to get your hands on one–could be a great choice for a large oscar tank. Simply put, giant gouramis are giant and can easily surpass 2 feet in length. Surprisingly, they’re relatively peaceful fish that intimidate Oscars out of sheer size; mature giant gourami has been known to become more aggressive as they age.

    In some ways, the giant gourami is the best tank mate species for Oscars as their calm demeanor also calms down the Oscars. Giant gouramis have also been known to relax overly dominant male Oscars.

    7. Arowanas

    Arowana Fish
    • Scientific name: Osteoglossinae subfamily
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 2.5 feet
    • Minimum Tank Size: 250 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6.0-7.0
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult

    Arowanas, most commonly the silver Arowana (Osteoglossum bicirrhosum), are regularly kept in oscar tank setups–if you have the space for a potentially 3-foot fish. Arowanas are one of the most unique fish species available in the aquarium hobby.

    Arowanas have downward-pointing mouths that create a trapdoor for prey on the surface. This behavior keeps them at the surface of the aquarium, which means they’re less likely to interact with the Oscars below.

    Arowanas aren’t always big, though; smaller ones can make the perfect snack for a larger oscar. When buying an Arowana, make sure that it can’t easily fit into the mouth of your oscar.

    What Bottom Feeders Can Live With Oscars?

    It’s always ideal for picking tank mates that don’t cohabitate at the same levels of the tank. That’s one of the reasons why the surface-dwelling Arowana is a great choice for an oscar tank setup. Luckily, there are a few potential oscar tank mates to fill up the bottom of the tank too.

    8. Clown Loaches

    Clown Loach in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Chromobotia macracantha
    • Temperament: Semi-agressive
    • Origin: Southeast Indonesia
    • Size: 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.0-7.5
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Rarely documented

    Clown loaches might not seem like they could be oscar tank mates, but that’s because many hobbyists fail to realize their potential mature size. The clown loach can grow to be over a foot in length. Add on the fact that these loaches need to be kept in schools of at least 6 or more, and you have a pretty demanding fish.

    On top of its size, the clown loach is a semi-aggressive fish that will defend its place at the bottom of the tank. They are also a good tank mate choice for Oscars as they will sift through the substrate and help pick up any food that is missed from the messy eaters above.

    9. Common Pleco

    Common Pleco in Aquarium
    • Scientific name: Hypostomus plecostomus
    • Temperament: Generally peaceful
    • Origin: South America
    • Size: 20 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Diet: Omnivore
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 72-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Difficult

    The common pleco might be seen as a small bottom-dwelling fish to the unknowing hobbyist, but these fish are monsters. The common pleco can grow to be at least 20 inches at full size and live for a long time.

    Common plecos are commonly seen in nano community tanks but do best in monster-fish setups or ponds. Though a suckerfish is capable of clinging to vertical surfaces, they tend to stay on the bottom of the substrate, which means that they’ll stay out of the way of their oscar tank mate. In addition, they’ll help clean up any uneaten food.

    Common plecos are typically peaceful. However, they’ve been known to cling onto the sides of other fish and become aggressive to species that venture too far to the bottom.

    10. Freshwater Stingrays

    Freshwater Stingray
    • Scientific name: Potamotrygonidae family
    • Temperament: Semi-aggressive
    • Origin: Mainly South America
    • Size: Varies
    • Minimum Tank Size: 180 gallons
    • Diet: Carnivore
    • pH: 6.5-7.5
    • Temperature: 75-82ยฐF
    • Difficulty to breed: Moderate

    Freshwater stingrays might not be the first tank mates you think to add to your oscar tank, but they’re one of the best if you have the space and legal permits. Freshwater stingrays are generally easy to care for but require a lot of space and a high-quality protein diet.

    Picking the right species is also important to consider in regard to tank size. Here are some of the most popular freshwater stingrays available in the hobby:

    • Ocellate river stingray/Moto stingray (Potamotrygon Motoro)
    • Bigtooth river stingray/P12 (Potamotrygon henlei)
    • Black diamond stingray (Potamotrygon leopoldi)

    Though carnivores, stingrays will likely avoid going after live fish; they prefer their natural diet of mollusks and crustaceans. That means that, for the most part, your Oscars and stingrays will live independent lives in the same tank even though they originate from similar areas of the world.

    Final Thoughts

    Oscars are great fish with tons of personality that can be kept on their own, in a school, or with other tank mates. There is a large selection of oscar tank mates available to the casual hobbyist or the committed enthusiast, with the usual determining factor being space and diet.

    These are monster fish that need monster tanks! But as long as their basic needs are met, then both oscar and their oscar tank mates will live together successfully.

  • The 10 Most Expensive Betta Fish: Show-Quality and Rare Varieties Explained

    The 10 Most Expensive Betta Fish: Show-Quality and Rare Varieties Explained

    Betta fish have one of the widest price ranges of any fish in the hobby. You can pay $5 for a cup-store betta at a chain pet shop, or $500+ for a show-quality specimen from a top Thai breeder. I’ve covered bettas extensively on my channel, and what always strikes me is the sheer difference in quality between mass-produced fish and true show bettas. the coloration, finnage, and body conformation are almost incomparable once you’ve seen both side by side.

    Here are the 10 most expensive betta types and varieties on the market, with notes on what makes each one command that kind of price.

    Key Takeaways

    • The rarest betta fish and newest breeds are the most expensive
    • The most expensive betta fish in the world sold for $1,530 in 2016
    • Not all bettas are expensive. Many pet stores sell veiltail betta fish for under $5
    • Many factors affect betta fish pricing. Color, pattern, fin size and shape, and scale type all play a role

    How Much Does the Average Betta Fish Cost?

    Before we jump into the more expensive breeds, let’s set the benchmark. The average betta costs below twenty dollars, with much great fish selling for as little as three dollars.

    Why Are Some So Expensive?

    A few factors go into the price of fancy betta fish. The first is the beauty and appeal of the fish. Of course, plenty of other bettas with beautiful shapes and colors cost just a few dollars, which brings us to the next factor – scarcity.

    The rarer a betta, the more valuable it is. The world-famous Kachen Worachai fish that sold for an unbelievable sum put its breeder on the map because it had the colors of the flag of Thailand, the native home of the betta fish.

    Breeding such a fish requires knowledge, time, resources, and some good luck! Beauty and rarity are very important factors driving betta fish’s price, but there are many more.

    Read on to learn more about the most desirable and expensive betta fish traits.

    Tail Shape

    The wild Betta splendens has a large, beautiful tail with a smooth, rounded edge that spreads to about 120ยฐ. Selective breeding has produced the amazing variety of fin and tail shapes we see today.

    Fancy breeds include some spectacular finnage, from the 180ยฐ smooth Halfmoon betta fish to the spikey crown tail betta fish and the pointed spade tail. Some tail shapes are rarer than others, and these fish tend to be more valuable.

    Alien Betta Male

    It’s not only their tails that have transformed. Countless generations have produced some variation in the other fins too.

    The elephant ear betta fish is a great example of a breed with large fins. These bettas have huge pectoral fins, which is why they are also called dumbo betta.

    Color and Scale Pattern

    Fancy male bettas are popular for the amazing variety of colors they have. Some colors would be incredibly expensive, like the mythical purple betta, but pretty much every other color is available.

    However, the pattern of the colors is very important. Solid color bettas are more expensive than fish with two colors, and multicolored spotted, and speckled types like galaxy bettas and fancier koi fish are also more valuable.

    Betta fish have naturally bold and beautiful scales, which have been enhanced through careful breeding. Mutations like the dragon scale have been selected to produce fish with large armor-like scales, just like their legendary namesakes.

    Breeder Reputation

    Breeders build up a reputation for great-looking and exotic fish. Over the years, their brand name allows them to command a higher price for their rare fish. Most elite breeders are based in Thailand, though there are some that are based in the US and other parts of the world

    Top 10 Most Expensive

    Now that you know a little more about why some bettas are so expensive, let’s dive right in and discover ten of the most expensive bettas and why they come with such a hefty price tag!

    Here is the YouTube video we created from our channel. We go into more detail in the blog post below. Be sure to subscribe to us if you like our content!

    1. Fantail

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Double tail fin
    • Approximate Price: Unknown – Rarely available

    Fantail bettas have a rare genetic mutation that makes them grow a second caudal fin. That’s right; these valuable fish have two tails! Check out the video above by AquaPros. In the video, he talks about this crazy rare and expensive Betta Fish.

    Fantail bettas do not seem to struggle with any major health problems as a result of their unique and colorful fins, and they are stunning fish to watch.

    These amazing fish are super rare, but hopefully, they will become more available as serious breeders try to produce them. For now, you can expect to pay four or even five figures for a pair of these stunning betta fish!

    2. Kachen Worachai

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Thai flag (Red, white, and blue stripes)
    • Unique Traits: Most expensive betta fish ever sold
    • Approximate Price: $1,530

    Kachen Worachai is a betta fish breeder from Southeast Asia. In 2016, he produced a stunning plakat betta with the colors of the Thai national flag which sold for a jaw-dropping 53,500 baht ($1530) in an online auction.

    This fish had a deep blue body, with white bases to the dorsal and ventral fin, and red margins. This isn’t exactly a breed, but we had to include it for its beauty and record status!

    3. Fancy Copper Indo

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Various shades of blue and copper
    • Unique Traits: Amazing metallic sheen and strong Indonesian bloodline
    • Approximate Price: $676

    Copper betta fish have beautiful metallic scales, but their color can be variable. They often have a blue color, with a copper-like sheen.

    Prime specimens can be very expensive, especially when imported from Indonesia, a Southeast Asian country famous for betta fish breeding.

    Pee Kloaw, a beautiful specimen with a white body and bold red bar closed at auction for over $600!

    4. Wild

    Wild Betta Fish Swimming
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Varied
    • Unique Traits: Various sizes and body shapes with beautiful natural colors
    • Approximate Price: $30 – $100 +

    There are over 70 wild betta fish species, and some of the rarer ones fetch very high prices. These fish do not have the same bright colors and long fins as the domesticated Siamese Fighting Fish but they are popular with collectors for their natural beauty.

    Betta hendra and Betta macrostoma are some of the more valuable and popular wild betta fish, and a breeding pair can cost hundreds of dollars.

    5. White Dragon King

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: All white
    • Unique Traits: Thick, armor-like scales
    • Approximate Price: Unknown

    King bettas are large strong bettas that have an aggressive nature. They are a variant of the popular plakat betta; a fish bred for fighting. The fish shown above is a Crown variant.

    The combination of the rare white color with the impressive dragon scale gene and the large size and strength of the king betta make this fish a highly sought-after specimen!

    6. Half Moon King Of Gold

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Solid gold
    • Unique Traits: D-shaped tail, full fins, and metallic gold color
    • Approximate Price: $570

    Gold bettas are amazing fish to look at. They sparkle in an aquarium in a way that makes them look unreal.

    One beautiful fish with a half-moon tail and solid gold color on the body and fins sold for $570. That fish sold for more than its weight in gold!

    7. Galaxy Rose Tail

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Spotted in various colors
    • Unique Traits: Spotted pattern with rose-petal fins
    • Approximate Price: Unknown

    Galaxy Rose Tails blend the Koi Betta with the traits of a rose tail Betta. They have a marbled appearance and long fins, which gives them a striking appearance. They are rare and command a high price as a result. The tail extends like a Halfmoon but goes past 180 degrees. It makes a great showcase of fish in either a community tank or a solo fish in a smaller tank.

    8. Rose White Platinum Dragon

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: White
    • Unique Traits: All-white body and fins with large metallic scales
    • Approximate Price: $680

    The rose-white platinum dragon combines a rare, all-white betta with the eye-catching dragon scale trait which results in large scales with a metallic sheen.

    These expensive betta fish have the rose tail gene which results in huge fins and an incredible and oversized caudal fin. This is an elegant betta breed that you can expect to pay a lot for!

    One beautiful specimen with a black beard reached nearly $700 dollars at an online auction!

    9. Half Moon Plakat

    Mustard Tail Betta
    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Variable
    • Unique Traits: Small fins but large D-shaped caudal fins
    • Approximate Price: Some specimens sell for over $300

    Plakat bettas are classic Siamese fighting fish, bred for power and bite strength. The Halfmoon bettas combine this traditional body shape with a large, D-shaped tail fin, and they can be very valuable in the right color and scale patterns.

    Some color forms of the half-moon plakat betta fish are among the most expensive betta fish breeds. High-quality betta fish like the dark nebula can fetch very high prices on auction.

    10. True Purple

    • Adult Size: 2.5-3 inches
    • Color Pattern: Purple
    • Unique Traits: Rare purple color
    • Approximate Price: Unknown

    Betta fish come in an amazing array of colors, but there’s one shade you’ve probably never seen – purple. Solid-class purple bettas are extremely rare, which would make them really valuable if they are ever produced.

    A true purple betta fish would look absolutely amazing in a dark-themed aquarium. This is one fish that betta breeders should strive to create!

    Are They Expensive to Care For?

    Some betta fish can be very expensive, but the cost of the fish is not the only expense involved. Betta fish can’t survive very long in a bowl or a cup, but they don’t need a large aquarium.

    Getting everything you need to house a betta can be cheap or expensive, it really depends on the quality of equipment you choose.

    Generally, getting set up to keep a betta fish is affordable. This means keeping a single betta fish is one of the cheapest tropical fish tank setups in the aquarium hobby.

    Want to know what you need to keep a betta fish? Here is a basic list of the essential items:

    Hardware

    • Tank with hood
    • Filter
    • Heater
    • Lighting
    • Thermometer

    Decorations

    Maintenance

    • Test kit
    • Water conditioner/dechlorinator
    • Gravel vacuum
    • Algae scraper

    Food

    • High-quality micro-pellets or flakes
    • Frozen bloodworms & brine shrimp

    The items listed above are pretty much everything you need to get started and are easy to buy online or at most pet stores. However, you may need some other items depending on your specific situation.

    Many fish keepers prefer to grow live plants in their betta tank to recreate the fish’s natural habitat, but you can use soft, betta-safe silk plants as an alternative.

    Great For Delicate Fins!
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    Silk plants that are designed to be gentle on fish with fancy fins like Bettas and Fancy Goldfish

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    Some experienced aquarists also keep female bettas together in a betta sorority, although this requires a relatively large space (20 gallons +). Female bettas are still great fish; they just don’t have as much color and fin variation as males.

    The total cost of these basics comes to much less than most of the expensive betta fish breeds in this article, so the good news is that betta fish are not necessarily expensive to care for!

    Can You Make Money By Selling Them?

    It is very possible to make a profit by breeding and selling bettas. However, it is not something a beginner could jump into and expect fast results.

    Gaining the necessary experience takes time, and input costs are high if you plan on starting with rare bloodlines. It is best to start off by trying to fund your hobby, rather than quitting your day job!

    FAQs

    What Is The Rarest Color?

    Solid purple is the rarest betta fish color. It is unknown whether any of these fish exist, but one of these incredibly rare betta fish would be very expensive. Green bettas are also extremely rare, although turquoise shades are not unusual. Solid orange, yellow, and white bettas are also rare color varieties.

    How Expensive Can They Get?

    The most expensive betta fish ever sold cost over $1500. That fish was so valuable because its markings perfectly matched the Thai flag’s colors. However, some breeders and owners have fish that they would not sell for less than thousands of dollars. For example, a rare breeding pair of fantail bettas in the USA is valued at a staggering $10,000!

    Is Plakat Expensive?

    Plakat bettas are a large-jawed breed with very short fins. They tend to be a little more expensive than other varieties like veiltails. You can find plakats for less than $20 if you shop around, but higher-grade fish can be pricey.

    Why Are Some More Expensive?

    The rarest betta fish colors, patterns, and fin shapes are the most expensive because they are unique and difficult to find.

    What Makes Them Expensive?

    Beauty and rarity are the most important factors that determine betta fish prices. A rare breed that has never been seen before is likely to fetch high prices, but some breeds are consistently more expensive than other betta fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Like all pets, some breeds cost more than others. The amazing range of breeds and colors of betta fish makes their prices vary hugely, from less than 5 bucks to over a thousand dollars!

    Would you buy an expensive betta fish? Tell us about your dream betta breed in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Betta Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for betta care, types, tank setup, feeding, tank mates, and more.

  • 15 Best Neon Tetra Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    15 Best Neon Tetra Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    Neon tetras were probably one of the first fish I ever kept, and 25+ years later they’re still among my favorites for a well-planted community tank. A school of 15. 20 neons moving through a planted setup catches the light in a way that genuinely doesn’t get old. They’re also about as peaceful as fish come, which gives you a lot of flexibility with tank mates.

    The main consideration is size. neons are small (under 1.5 inches), and anything large enough to fit one in its mouth eventually will. Beyond that, you want peaceful fish that can share soft, slightly acidic water without outcompeting neons at feeding time. Here are 15 tank mates that reliably work.

    Key Takeaways

    • Neon tetras need to be kept in a group to thrive. Six should be the bare minimum, but ten or more is a better choice.
    • You can mix different species of neon tetras – just make sure you have enough of each species to form their own schools.
    • Avoid any tank mates that are large enough to eat neon tetras.
    • Neon tetras prefer acidic to neutral water. Avoid tank mates that need hard, alkaline water.

    Choosing NEON TETRA Tank Mates – A Word Of Caution

    Neon tetras get along with loads of other tropical fish, but there are just as many species that don’t make good tank mates. So how do you choose?

    Size

    Neon Tetras are very small fish with a maximum size of about 1.25 inches. At this size, many larger fish can (and will) swallow them whole!

    Most popular aquarium species are omnivorous or carnivorous fish, so choosing similar-sized tank mates is always a good idea. There are exceptions, but most fish that grow over 3 or 4 inches will be risky.

    Neon tetras can be housed in tanks as small as 10 gallons on their own, but bigger is better if you want to keep more than one species. 15 gallons will work, but 20+ is a better bet when setting up a community tank.

    Group Size

    Group or school size is another important factor to consider when choosing neon tetra tank mates.

    You will notice that the fish species in this article are small, up to 2 inches. Fish of that size might not need very much room, but these species are social creatures that need to be kept with their own kind to behave confidently.

    Parameters

    Neon tetras prefer slightly cooler water than most other tropical fish. They also enjoy mildly acidic water. These are important factors when choosing tank mates because some fish need colder or warmer conditions or water with a higher pH.

    Let’s take a look at the ideal parameters for your neon tetras:

    Temperament

    Neon tetras are peaceful fish, and they need peaceful tank mates. Avoid territorial fish or species that are known to be aggressive or nip fins. Be aware that even peaceful fish can behave badly if they are not kept in groups or if they are under stress.

    Swimming Level

    It’s a good idea to add fish that occupy various levels in the water column. This article focuses on colorful schooling and shoaling fish, but adding a few bottom feeders will help to keep your tank clean while adding another layer of movement.

    Top 15 Companions

    Now that you know what to look for in the perfect neon tetra tank mate let’s jump in and meet 15 amazing species you can add to your fish tank. Take note of the following facts and guidelines for each species:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • Care Level
    • Temperament
    • Swimming Level
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • pH
    • Water Temperature

    Let’s get started!

    1. Other Types

    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Adult Size: 1.25 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Middle
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 -7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF

    Sometimes, the best tank mates for neon tetras are other neon tetras! These peaceful tropical fish are very social creatures that live in large schools in their natural habitat.

    There is no limit to the number of neon tetras you can keep if you have enough room, but you should keep a minimum of 6. Like other schooling aquarium fish, your neon tetras just won’t be comfortable without the company of their own species.

    2. Black

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 77 ยฐF

    Black neon tetras are a different species from regular neon tetras, but they have very similar behavior. Their bold black, silver, and red colors contrast with the blues of the neon tetras for an amazing display.

    Black neon tetras are true community fish. They grow slightly larger than regular neon tetras, but you can easily keep a small school of both species in a 15-gallon tank with good filtration and plenty of swimming space.

    3. Green

    <a href=Green Neon Tetra School” class=”wp-image-1067276″/>
    • Scientific Name: Paracheirodon simulans
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1 inch
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 6.5
    • Water Temperature: 76 – 95 ยฐF

    The green neon tetra is very similar to the regular neon, but it stays a little smaller. These little fish have even brighter blue and green coloration but have less red than regular neon tetras.

    Green neons can make great neon tetra tank mates, but they prefer warmer water. That means the two species must be kept right around 77ยฐF to keep everyone happy.

    4. Dwarf Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras maculatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 – 1 inch
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 6.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF

    The dwarf rasbora (video resource) is a tiny fish from Southeast Asia. They are very peaceful fish that will thrive in a well-maintained community tank with neon tetras and other smaller fish.

    The dwarf rasbora is a good tank mate for a heavily planted aquarium. These fish can thrive in a small tank, but maintaining excellent water quality in a low volume of water is best left to more experienced aquarists.

    5. Exclamation Point Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras urophthalmoides
    • Adult Size: 0.5 – 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ lower levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF

    The exclamation point rasbora is a true nano fish and one of the smallest freshwater fish in the aquarium hobby! These tiny schooling fish get their name from the dot and stripes on the sides of their body.

    Exclamation point rasboras are good neon tetra tank mates in a heavily planted aquascape. They are ideal for more advanced aquarists looking for a nano community fish.

    6. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 1.75 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82ยฐF

    Looking for a hardy fish with great color and personality for your neon tetra community tank? Look no further than the harlequin rasbora! These beautiful fish make quite a statement with their bold black triangular markings.

    Harlequin rasboras will get along great with your neon tetras, but it’s very important to keep them with other fish of their own species. Pick up a group of at least 8 of these active fish.

    7. Celestial Pearl Danio

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ lower levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78ยฐF

    Celestial pearl danios (AKA galaxy rasboras) are very suitable tank mates for neon tetras in a well-maintained home aquarium. These little fish are very peaceful, but they are easily outcompeted for food by larger active swimmers, so choose their tank mates carefully.

    You will love the way these shoaling fish hang out and display for each other. They are not exactly coldwater fish, but they enjoy the same cooler water temperatures as neon tetras.

    8. Cherry Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 1.75 – 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Mid/ top-water
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 80 ยฐF

    Cherry barbs are a great nano community fish from the same family as goldfish. They are a very peaceful barb species that won’t bother your neon tetras.

    These schooling fish come from forest streams in Asia, and they thrive in community tanks with other peaceful schooling fish.

    Cherry barbs are very active swimmers, and they need the company of their own species to feel comfortable. Keep a group of at least 6 in a tank with plenty of swimming space, and you’ll find that they make great tank mates for your neon tetras!

    9. Dwarf Gourami

    Dwarf Gourami in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster lalius
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF

    Dwarf Gouramis are active and curious fish that enjoy exploring their aquarium. These fascinating fish breathe air at the surface of the tank, so keep that in mind if you plan on growing floating plants.

    The male dwarf gourami is a very colorful fish with iridescent blues, reds, and silvers – just like your neon tetras! These fish should be kept in pairs or small groups.

    10. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: All levels
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80 ยฐF

    The honey gourami is similar to the dwarf gourami but stays even small at around 2 inches. These peaceful tropical fish will brighten up your aquarium with their beautiful golden color.

    Honey gouramis are easy to care for, so they make a great choice for beginner fish keepers looking for a new species with an interesting shape and calm personality. You can keep a pair of these fish in a tank of 15 gallons but jump up to 20 gallons or more if you want a small group.

    11. Sparkling Gourami

    Sparkling gouramis (video source) are also known as pygmy gouramis. They are one of the smallest gourami species in the aquarium hobby, and they are a great choice for your neon tetra tank.

    They are more streamlined than other gouramis, and their large fins and bright blue eyes really make them stand out in a tropical community. Sparkling gouramis are not exactly schooling fish, but they prefer to be kept in a group with their own species.

    12. Amano Shrimp

    • Scientific Name: Caridina multidentata
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Moderate
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • pH: 6 – 7.6
    • Water Temperature: 60 – 80ยฐF

    Amano shrimp are one of the larger freshwater shrimp species in the aquarium hobby. These shrimp are named after Takashi Amano, the legendary aquarist and photographer.

    Amano Shrimp are amazing algae eaters, which makes them the perfect choice for planted aquariums. They may not be the most colorful inverts, but they are fascinating to watch.

    Adults are generally safe with neon tetras and other small fish, but shrimplets can be risky. Providing plenty of hiding spaces and dense plants like Java moss will give them a safe place to hang out until they are large enough to explore.

    13. Cherry Shrimp

    Beginner Friendly
    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy In Bulk
    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina davidi
    • Adult Size: 1.25 – 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 80 ยฐF

    Cherry shrimp are popular, hardy, and affordable freshwater shrimp that can be great neon tetra tank mates. These bottom feeders eat algae and other waste, which makes them a natural choice for your clean-up crew!

    Adult cherry shrimp are usually safe to keep with neon tetras, but the babies will be eaten if they don’t have plenty of hiding places like caves and fine-leaved plants. You may wish to add a few inexpensive ghost shrimp first to see if your fish are going to be shrimp-safe.

    14. Nerite Snail

    • Scientific Name: Neritina spp.
    • Adult Size: 1- 1.5 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 6.5 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 65 – 85 ยฐF

    Nerite snails are beautiful and hardworking members of your clean-up crew. These colorful creatures cruise around on the leaves of plants and your aquarium glass, slowly grazing on algae to keep your tank looking great.

    Nerite snails do not breed in freshwater, so you don’t have to worry about them multiplying in your tank. Many amazing species are available in the aquarium trade, with zebra and tiger nerites being the most popular.

    15. Mystery Snails

    Mystery Snail
    • Scientific Name: Pomacea bridgesii
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • Care Level: Easy
    • Temperament: Peaceful
    • Swimming Level: Bottom
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • pH: 7 – 8.4
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82ยฐF

    Mystery snails are another great invertebrate option for your neon tetra tank. These large snails come in a variety of colors, including white, golden, purple, and blue.

    These snails lay their eggs outside of the water, so you don’t have to worry about them breeding if you keep your tank full. Mystery snails can be kept with neon tetras if you have water right around neutral but they do not thrive in low-pH conditions.

    Other Possibilities

    Want even more neon tetra tank mate ideas? These fish are also potential choices:

    Fish To Avoid

    Now that we’ve covered a bunch of great neon tetra tank mates let’s take a look at some of the tank mates you should avoid.

    Most of the fish listed above are examples of larger fish that can eat your neon tetras. Avoid fish that grow larger than about 3 inches to stay on the safe side.

    Betta fish aren’t going to eat neon tetras, but they can be a little aggressive toward them. The least risky will be female bettas. Other small aggressive fish like tiger barbs and silvertip tetras should also be avoided as well as any species that require water temperatures above 78 ยฐF or a pH above 7.

    Community Tank Tips

    Have you chosen your favorite neon tetra tank mates? Before you go out and order your new fish, take a few minutes to read through these handy neon tetra tank tips!

    Tank Size

    You can keep neon tetras in a tank of just 10 gallons, but your options are pretty limited. I would suggest a tank of at least 15 gallons, but 20 gallons or more is advisable. Remember, neon tetras are schooling fish, so you’re going to want at least 6.

    If you add some other schooling aquarium fish like harlequin rasboras, your total stocking will increase to at least 14 fish.

    Bigger is (almost) always better when setting up a community tank, so keep this in mind if you don’t already have your aquarium set up.

    Filtration, Lighting & Heating

    A successful neon community tank requires good filtration, a reliable aquarium heater, and six to eight hours of lighting each day.

    Neon tetras do not mind a decent flow rate in their tank since they live in rivers in their natural environment. Nevertheless, they are small fish that will become stressed if forced to swim against a strong current all day.

    Decorating Your Tank

    Your Neon Tetras will enjoy plenty of swimming space, but they prefer to have some structure in their home. Add some driftwood and rocks to create a more natural habitat.

    Growing live plants in your aquarium is a great way to improve your water quality and make your tank even more beautiful.

    Choose easy plants like Java ferns and Amazon sword if you’re just starting out. These plants don’t need any specialized equipment to thrive.

    Feeding Your Fish

    Neon tetras are very easy to feed. Providing high-quality flake food once or twice each day will keep them happy and healthy. Provide the occasional treat like live or frozen bloodworms and brine shrimp to keep your fish in top condition.

    Overfeeding your fish is a common mistake that can have some surprisingly serious consequences. Watch your fish eat; they should be able to finish their food in a minute or so.

    Tank Maintenance

    Maintaining a healthy neon tetra community tank takes a little regular maintenance.

    Schedule an hour or so each week to perform regular water changes and tank maintenance. I recommend testing your water every week to monitor the build-up of nitrates and phosphates.

    You can plan your maintenance schedule around the results of your tests and aim to keep your nitrate levels down to about 20 parts per million or less. You’ll also want to clean your glass and ornaments from time to time and rinse out your filter media when it begins to clog up.

    However, there are some things you can do to minimize the amount of maintenance you need to do. Use these tips to keep your tank cleaner for longer:

    • Avoid overstocking your tank. More fish means more food and more fish poop!
    • Grow live plants
    • Use high-quality filtration
    • Avoid overfeeding
    • Add clean-up crew animals like nerite snails and cherry shrimps

    Where To Buy

    Are you ready to get some new friends for your neon tetras? You should have no trouble tracking down the species in this list. Most local fish stores will stock these fish; just make sure to buy from stores that take great care of their animals.

    More and more aquarists are buying their fish online these days. You can also consider ordering your fish from a trusted online retailer and having them delivered directly to your door!

    FAQs

    Are They Good Companions?

    Neon tetras make wonderful tank mates for many other fish. These peaceful fish are safe to keep with similar-sized tropical fish that enjoy the same water parameters.

    How Many Can I Put In A 10-gallon Tank?

    A school of 6 neon tetras is a good option for a 10-gallon aquarium with good filtration. It is easy to overstock a small aquarium, but remember that these fish need to be kept in a school.

    Do All Tetra Fish Get Along?

    Most tetras are very peaceful fish, but some can be a little bit nippy. Serpae tetras and silvertip tetras are two species that can be aggressive towards other fish and their own species.

    Do Tetra Fish Need Companions?

    Tetra fish absolutely need the companionship of their own species. That means you need at least 6 neon tetras together in the same tank. Six different species of tetras, or two groups of three, will not school together in the same way.

    What Fish Gets Along With Tetras?

    Most small, peaceful tropical fish get along with tetras. Small schooling fish like rasboras, gouramis, and other species like cardinal tetras are all great options for the middle levels of the water column. Small bottom feeders like cory catfish and even African dwarf frogs also make excellent tank mates.

    Can 4 Of Them Live Together?

    Try to keep at least 6 neon tetras together in your tank. These fish live in huge schools in nature where they enjoy the benefits of safety in numbers. They may be shy and nervous in a group of four.

    What Big Fish Can Live With Them?

    Most big fish will eat your neon tetras, but a few vegetarian species are pretty safe. Plecos are one of the few large fish that are safe to keep with tetras.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Neon tetras are social schooling fish who are shy and nervous. They should be kept in schools of at least 6, although 12 or more is even better.

    Final Thoughts

    Use the tips in this guide to help you choose your next tank mates. Remember, choose peaceful, similar-size fish that enjoy the same water parameters as your neon tetras. Give them plenty of swimming space and keep their tank clean for a happy and healthy home aquarium!

    What is your favorite neon tetra tank mate? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 21 Best Guppy Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    21 Best Guppy Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    Guppies were among the first fish I kept when I got into this hobby, and they’re still one of my top recommendations for anyone starting out. They’re colorful, peaceful, adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, and about as low-maintenance as freshwater fish get.

    One thing to plan for upfront: if you keep males and females together, you’ll get fry. constantly. Some tank mates naturally help manage this by eating fry, which can actually work in your favor. The main things to avoid are fin nippers (guppy fins make an easy target) and anything large enough to eat the adults. Here are 21 tank mates that work well across both considerations.

    Key Takeaways

    • Choose similar-sized, slow-moving tank mates for your guppies
    • Avoid large predatory fish or any species with a tendency to nip fins
    • The best guppy tank mates are fish that enjoy the same water parameters
    • Almost all freshwater fish will eat baby guppies. Use a separate breeding tank for your breeding projects

    How To Choose Guppy Tank Mates

    Choosing tank mates for guppies is not something you should rush into without careful thought. Sure, these livebearers are really easy-going and get along great with much other fish, but you really want to make sure everyone is comfortable in the same tank.

    There are a few things to consider. Read along as we break these factors down and cover what you need to know when choosing guppy tank mates.

    Water Parameters

    What are water parameters? Well, the tropical fish we keep come from different parts of the world with different climates, geologies, and different environments in general. These factors affect their water, and many fish are specifically adapted to those conditions.

    Guppies are pretty hardy fish, but if you want them to thrive, you’ll need to recreate their natural environment1. Here’s a list of their preferred water parameters and conditions:

    Guppies prefer relatively hard water with neutral to high pH. Of course, any tank mate you choose needs to be comfortable with all of the same water parameters.

    Temperament

    Different fish species have different personalities. Some of it comes down to the individual fish, but you can usually assume that certain types of fish are going to be peaceful and safe to keep with your guppies.

    Guppies are relatively peaceful fish, and the males, in particular, swim slowly due to their long, soft fins. This makes them vulnerable to aggressive fish and fin nippers like tiger barbs.

    Size

    Guppies are small fish. Male guppies reach just 1.5 inches in length, meaning many of the larger freshwater aquarium fish could swallow them whole. The ideal guppy tank mates are smaller than about 3.5 inches and have small mouths.

    Guppies are prolific breeders. The females produce live young, so it’s only a matter of time before you spot some tiny baby fish in your tank.

    Most fish will eat guppy fry, including their own parents! However, there are a few good tank mate options if you’d like some of the babies to survive.

    Best 21 Companions

    Now that you know more about choosing good tank mates for your guppy aquarium let’s dive right in and get to know some of the best examples!

    Take note of the following important information to help you choose the best tank mates for tank size and water conditions. We have a video from our YouTube Channel. Our blog goes over 21 while the youtube video channel goes over the first 10 on this post. Give us a subscribe if you like our videos!

    Each species of fish will include the following stats:

    • Scientific Name
    • Adult Size
    • pH
    • Water Temperature
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?
    • Recommended School Size

    1. Other Types

    Before we get started with other tank mates, take a moment to consider adding more guppies. These fish come in a wonderful array of different colors and fin types, and they all do great in the same conditions!

    I wouldn’t recommend mixing fancy guppy strains if you plan on breeding specific types, but if you don’t mind mixing your breeds, why not pick up a variety of different guppies?

    2. Octocinclus Catfish

    • Scientific Name: Otocinclus spp.
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6.8 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 74-79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: 2 +

    Otocinclus catfish (or just otos) are one of the most peaceful fish in the aquarium hobby. These nano catfish stay small and only eat algae, so they are a safe choice for guppy breeders.

    Otos can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons, but they can be tricky to feed in such a small space because they are prolific algae eaters and can run out of food. Supplement their diet with zucchini and algae wafers if necessary.

    3. Cherry Shrimp

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    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

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    • Scientific Name: Neocaridina denticulata sinensis
    • Adult Size: 1 inch
    • pH: 6.5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 60 – 80 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: Any

    Freshwater shrimp are fascinating tank mates for guppies, and you don’t have to worry about them eating your fry. Some guppies will snack on small shrimp, so make sure you have plenty of plants and caves where they can hide. Fine-leaved plants like Java moss are ideal for this.

    There are loads of different freshwater shrimp species and breeds, which come in beautiful colors too. If you’re just starting out with inverts, choose cheaper beginner breeds like cherry shrimp to see if they get along with your fish.

    4. Pygmy Cory Catfish

    Pygmy Cory
    • Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
    • Adult Size: 1.4 inches
    • pH: 6.2 – 7.2
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Possibly
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Pygmy cory catfish are excellent tank mates for guppies. These tiny schooling fish prefer to hang out in the mid-water levels of the tank, unlike their larger bottom-dwelling relatives.

    Pygmy cory catfish are super peaceful, so they are usually a safe bet with shrimp, and they probably won’t snack on your guppy fry either.

    There are many other species of cory catfish in the aquarium hobby, and most of them make great guppy tank mates. However, the larger species will work better in a tank of at least 30 gallons.

    5. Kuhli Loach

    • Scientific Name: Pangio kuhlii
    • Adult Size: 4 inches
    • pH: 6 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 3+

    Kuhli Loaches are excellent tank mates for guppies if you have water right around neutral on the scale. These strange, stripey eel-like fish are super entertaining to watch as they search the bottom of the tank for morsels.

    These scaleless fish can be pretty shy because they are nocturnal, but you will love seeing them when they come out. Kuhli loaches are also very peaceful, so they won’t ever bother your guppies.

    6. Swordtail Fish

    Swordtail Fish in Planted Tank
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus hellerii
    • Adult Size: 5 – 6 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 61 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5+

    Swordtail fish are livebearers, just like your guppies. You’ll see the resemblance when you look at these fish, although swordtails actually grow a lot larger.

    Male swordtails grow long, pointed tail fins which are where they get their name. Swordtails usually make great tankmates for guppies, but the males can sometimes get a little aggressive. I recommend having a backup plan in case things don’t work out between these two popular tropical fish species.

    7. Endler’s Livebearers

    • Scientific Name: Poecilia wingei
    • Adult Size: 1 – 1.8 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 86 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 4+

    Endler’s are very similar to guppies and will get along perfectly. In fact, these fish are so closely related that they can breed together to create hybrids. The results are beautiful little fish, but I would not recommend mixing Endler’s and fancy guppies if you are planning on breeding your fish.

    8. Platy Fish

    Platy Fish
    • Scientific Name: Xiphophorus maculatus
    • Adult Size: 2 – 3 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8.2
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 79 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5+

    Platies are yet another awesome livebearer fish. These colorful fish grow just a little larger than guppies, but they enjoy the same water conditions, making them great guppy tank mates!

    Platies come in many different color varieties, including gold wagtails, neon blues, and even black. Platy fish are easy to feed and easy to care for, so they are a great choice for beginners setting up a community tank.

    9. Black Neon Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon herbertaxelrodi
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 20 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    The black neon tetra is a beautiful freshwater fish from South America. These peaceful schooling fish get along great with many other freshwater fish, including guppies!

    These fish grow to a similar size and will thrive on the same diet. Just be sure to pick up a school of at least six black neons. You will love the way they swim together!

    10. Ember Tetra

    • Scientific Name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 8+

    Ember tetras are true nano fish and they make great tank mates for guppies. These golden orange fish have a very peaceful nature and they are the perfect choice for a heavily planted tank.

    Ember tetras prefer slightly acidic to neutral water pH. They will work with guppies if you have a pH of about 7.

    11. Chili Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Boraras brigittae
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Chili rasboras are tiny freshwater fish from Southeast Asia. These peaceful fish make great guppy tank mates.

    Chili rasbora fish can be a little shy, which is understandable because they are so small. Keep them in a big school in a well-planted aquarium to really enjoy their beautiful colors and patterns.

    12. Galaxy Rasbora (Celestial Pearl Danio)

    • Scientific Name: Celestichthys margaritatus
    • Adult Size: 0.75 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 78 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 5 +

    Galaxy rasbora fish are a great species for your guppy fish tank. These peaceful freshwater fish stay really small at less than an inch, so you can comfortably keep a small school with some guppies in a 15-gallon aquarium.

    Galaxy rasboras are also known as celestial pearl danios, and both names suit them well. They have bright orange fins, and the pearly spots on their sides look just like a starry night sky!

    13. Harlequin Rasbora

    • Scientific Name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Adult Size: 1.5 – 1.75 inches
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 70 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallon
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 8+

    Harlequin Rasbora fish are a go-to community fish in the aquarium hobby and one of my favorite guppy tank mates. These schooling fish have great colors and personalities and won’t fight with your guppies.

    Harlequin Rasboras do best in fish tanks with plenty of live plants. They will definitely snack on your guppy fry if they can, so consider a separate breeding tank if you want your baby fish to grow out safely.

    14. White Cloud Minnows

    • Scientific Name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8.5
    • Water Temperature: 57 – 71 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6 +

    White cloud minnows are peaceful shoaling fish from China. These small fish have beautiful red fins and a neon stripe down their sides.

    White cloud minnows make awesome guppy tank mates in lower water temperatures. These two freshwater aquarium fish can be kept together in water temperatures between about 66 and 70ยฐF

    15. Cherry Barbs

    • Scientific Name: Puntius titteya
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 79ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6+

    Cherry barbs are another peaceful species of small, schooling fish that you can keep with guppies. These fish usually thrive in the same water conditions as your guppies, and the two species won’t fight if you keep them in schools.

    Cherry barbs are social fish and need to have a few of their own kind around to be comfortable. Pick up at least six of these beautiful reddish fish, but go for more if you have a big enough tank.

    16. Honey Gourami

    • Scientific Name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Adult Size: 2 inches
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 80ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 1+

    Honey gouramis are small, peaceful relatives of the betta fish. They can be kept on their own as a small centerpiece fish, but are more comfortable in a small group.

    These colorful fish usually have a very peaceful nature, but you can expect males to become a little territorial during the breeding season. At this time they will develop a dark throat and belly that contrasts with their bright yellow or orange body color.

    17. Peacock Gudgeon

    Peacock Gudgeon Fish
    • Scientific Name: Tateurndina ocellicauda
    • Adult Size: 3 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 79ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 6 +

    Peacock gudgeons are unique and colorful fish from Papua New Guinea. These peaceful carnivores will not harm your guppies, although they will snack on their fry.

    Peacock gudgeons are easy to care for, and you can even breed them in your home aquarium. They will feel most at home in a tank with plenty of rocks, driftwood, caves, and live plants.

    18. Bristlenose Pleco

    • Scientific Name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Adult Size: 5 inches
    • pH: 6.5 – 7.4
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: Yes
    • Recommended School Size: 1

    Like the otocinclus catfish, bristlenose plecos help to keep your tank clean because they are great algae eaters. These unique fish are hardy and easy to keep, so they are great for beginners. Plecos hang out at the bottom of the tank, and they need a small cave and plenty of driftwood to really thrive.

    Bristlenose plecos are territorial fish, so keep just one in your guppy community tank to avoid any conflict. Fortunately, these fish won’t bother your guppies, and they are unlikely to eat your baby guppies.

    19. Molly Fish

    Sailfin Molly in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Poecilia sphenops / P. latipinna
    • Adult Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 4+

    Molly fish are very similar to guppies in many ways, and they can live together in the same tank. However, mollies grow much larger than guppies, and they can sometimes be a little mean towards their smaller relatives.

    You can certainly try mixing the two species in a 30-gallon or larger community setup. Maintaining excellent water quality and growing plenty of live plants will give you the best chance at success, but have a backup plan ready, just in case.

    20. Female Betta

    Female Betta Group
    • Scientific Name: Betta splendens
    • Adult Size: 2.5 inches
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water Temperature: 72 – 86 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 5 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 1

    Betta fish are extremely popular in the aquarium hobby, and many fish keepers wonder if they can live with guppies. However, there are no guarantees because each betta fish has their own personality.

    A single female betta is your best chance at success. They may not be as colorful as the males, but they are still amazing fish and tend to be less aggressive. However, I still recommend having a backup plan, just in case your fish don’t get along.

    21. Shell Dwelling Dwarf Cichlids

    Neolamprologus similis fish
    • Scientific Name: Neolamprologus multifasciatus
    • Adult Size: 1.5 inches
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 81 ยฐF
    • Minimum Tank Size: 10 gallons
    • Safe With Guppy Fry?: No
    • Recommended School Size: 2+

    Most Cichlids will not go well with guppies, but the African shell dwellers are an awesome exception. A few species are available in the hobby, but Multis (Neolamprologus multifasciatus) are usually the easiest to find.

    These tiny fish have a fascinating lifestyle. They live in empty snail shells at the bottom of the tank.

    Multis are not very aggressive fish, but they are pretty territorial around their shells, so you’ll find that your guppies tend to hang out at the top. However, shell-dwelling cichlids will eat baby guppies. In fact, guppy fish fry are a great food source for them!

    Planning Your Community Aquarium

    If you already have a healthy guppy tank set up, you might already have everything you need to start a guppy community with other freshwater species. If you’re starting a new tank, here’s what you’ll need:

    • 10+ gallon tank with hood
    • Filter, heater, lighting
    • Gravel or sand substrate
    • Driftwood, rocks, and decorations
    • Live plants (optional)
    • Water test kit and thermometer
    • Gravel vacuum and algae scraper
    • Water conditioner

    Tank Size

    You don’t need a large tank to set up an amazing guppy community aquarium. In fact, many of the fish in this list can be kept in a tank as small as 10 gallons!

    However, there are limits to how many fish you can fit in a nano aquarium. I recommend starting with at least a 15-gallon setup if you want to mix two or more fish species.

    Heating And Filtration

    Guppies are tropical freshwater fish. You will need a heater to keep the water in its preferred range. Choose a heater that is designed to fit your fish tank size.

    Filtration is essential for guppies and their tank mates. There are many different types to choose from, so choose a model that suits your needs. Guppies prefer a low water flow, so sponge filters are a great choice.

    Look at a canister filter designed for your fish tank size for superior filtration. These filters produce little water flow while holding a large amount of filter media for biological and mechanical filtration.

    Choosing Companions

    You won’t be able to keep all the great tankmates in this post in the same tank, so how do you choose? One great way to plan a community tank is to think about where the different fish will hang out in your tank.

    Bottom Dwellers

    Different freshwater fish species swim at different levels in a fish tank. Try including some bottom dwellers to spread the movement in your guppy tank. Bottom dwellers are also great for cleaning up uneaten food from the bottom of the tank.

    The following fish are great choices:

    • Cory catfish
    • Kuhli loach
    • Bristlenose pleco

    Schooling Fish

    Guppies are not really schooling fish. They tend to spread out all over the tank when they feel comfortable. A group of schooling fish will make an awesome feature in your guppy community tank. The following species are ideal:

    • Cherry barbs
    • Black neon tetras
    • Chili rasboras
    • Neon Rainbowfish

    Invertebrates

    Invertebrates also make good tank mates for guppies. Consider adding the following species to your guppy tank for even more variety:

    Feeding Your Fish

    You can feed your fish once or twice per day. Some fish keepers prefer to feed their fish three times per day; it all depends on your schedule. The important thing is to avoid overfeeding your fish.

    Too much food can make your fish obese and unhealthy. However, the biggest risk is the accumulation of uneaten food in your aquarium. This leads to poor water quality and even ammonia spikes that can be deadly for your fish.

    Feed your fish only as much food as they can finish in a minute or so. You might need to reduce this amount if you feed your fish more than once daily.

    Ideally, each fish in the tank should get its fair share of food, and nothing should be left behind, so watch your fish to work out the ideal feeding schedule for your tank.

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    Flake food or micro-pellets are ideal for most schooling guppy tank mates, but supplement their diet with brine shrimp and other live or frozen foods from time to time. Bottom feeders like kuhli loaches and cory catfish will eat leftover food, but they should also be fed sinking foods for bottom feeders.

    Water Quality And Tank Maintenance

    Keeping your fish healthy and your tank looking great requires a little effort on your part. Set aside an hour every week or two for regular maintenance, and you will have a beautiful and healthy fish tank for many years!

    Cycling

    Cycle your fish tank before adding any fish. This involves setting up your fish tank and filter and allowing the nitrogen cycle to get started for a few weeks before adding your fish. You can skip this step if you already have a cycled tank with guppies.

    Add new fish in small numbers over a few days or weeks. This will allow your tank to adjust and build stronger colonies of beneficial bacteria.

    Testing

    Test your water quality regularly to monitor the health of your aquarium. You should test your water before adding any fish to know your pH and water hardness levels.

    You’ll also want to test for ammonia and nitrites when cycling your tank. A tank that reads zero parts ammonia and zero parts nitrite is cycled and ready to be stocked.

    Nitrates build up in your water over time. They increase as the beneficial bacteria in your filter break down fish poop and uneaten food. Nitrates are not highly toxic, but you’ll want to keep their levels below about 20 parts per million by performing regular maintenance.

    Water Changes

    Change your water regularly depending on your water test results. You might need to do this once, twice, or four times per month, depending on the size of your tank, your filtration, and how many fish you keep.

    Start by switching off your heater and filter. Remove the water from your tank with your gravel vacuum, taking care to suck up as much waste from the bottom of the tank as possible. Replace the old water with dechlorinated water of the same temperature as your aquarium. Lastly, don’t forget to switch your heater and filter back on!

    Where To Buy

    You will find many of the guppy tank mates in this post at your local fish store. However, some of the less common species, like shell-dwelling cichlids and peacock gudgeons, might be easier to find online. Only buy from trusted retailers that take great care of their livestock.

    FAQs

    Final Thoughts

    Guppies get along really well with many peaceful freshwater fish, but doing your research before pointing out your favorite fish to the salesperson in the shop is always the way to go. Use this guide to help you make an informed decision and choose some awesome new friends for your guppies!

    Which is your favorite guppy fish tank mate? Let us know in the comments below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Amazon Frogbit Care Guide: The Best Floating Plant for Nutrient Control and Surface Cover

    Amazon Frogbit Care Guide: The Best Floating Plant for Nutrient Control and Surface Cover

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    What It Is Actually Like Growing Amazon Frogbit

    The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

    Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

    Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

    In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

    Table of Contents

    The Amazon Frogbit is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.

    Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

    Amazon Frogbit blocks light. That is its superpower and its problem. It shades out algae, but it also shades out every plant below it if you do not thin it regularly.

    This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

    A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

    The one thing to manage is surface coverage. If it takes over completely, it blocks light for submerged plants and reduces surface gas exchange. The fix is simple: skim off excess weekly. Here’s everything you need to know to use it effectively.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Amazon Frogbit

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Amazon Frogbit without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Amazon Frogbit are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Growing Amazon Frogbit

    Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.

    Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.

    Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.

    Expert Take

    If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.

    Key Takeaways

    • Amazon frogbit is an easy species of floating plant that can provide food and shelter to freshwater fish and invertebrates.
    • This plant is very prolific and is used as a biological control over excess nutrients. However, uncontrolled growth can prove to be detrimental to natural aquatic systems.
    • Amazon frogbit can propagate through seed production or stem fragmentation with the potential to quadruple in quantity over a few weeks.

    A Brief Overview Of Amazon Frogbit

    Scientific Name Limnobium laevigatum
    Common Names Amazon frogbit, American frogbit, South American spongeplant Smooth frogbit, West Indian spongeplant
    Family Hydrocharitaceae
    Origin Central and South America
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Moderate
    Tank Placement Surface of water
    Flow Rate Low
    Temperature Range 64 – 86ยฐF
    Height <0.5 inches above the water, 1+ inches below the water
    pH Range 6.0 – 7.5
    Growth Rate Very fast
    Feed Type Water column feeder
    Co2 Requirement No

    Classification

    Division Magnoliophyta
    Class Liliopsida
    Order Alismatales
    Family Hydrocharitaceae
    Genus Limnobium
    Species L. Laevigatum (Humboldt & Bonpland ex Willdenow)

    Introduction

    Many of the tropical freshwater fish that we know and love originate from the blackwater ecosystems of the Amazon Rainforest throughout the northern portions of South America. While these exciting and vibrant species take precedence in home aquarium systems, their less colorful backdrops are often forgotten.

    It is easy to think about the Amazon River as a murky waterway at the base of a plethora of green foliage and wild animals, but underneath the surface, the diversity persists. Thousands of plant species originate from these river systems, which have made their way into the freshwater aquarium hobby over the years. One of the most prolific yet understated species is Limnobium laevigatum, most commonly known as Amazon frogbit.

    Amazon frogbit is a perennial floating plant that can completely cover the surface of slow-moving freshwater ecosystems. As we’ll see, this can become problematic when introduced as an invasive species1.

    Origin And Habitat

    Though named Amazon frogbit, this plant has a very wide natural range that ventures north of South America and into Central America. Amazon frogbit has been documented in the following countries as a naturally-occurring species: Mexico, Brazil, Antigua, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Montserrat, Puerto Rico, St. Lucia, Trinidad, Costa Rica, El Salvador, Guatemala, Nicaragua, Panama, French Guiana, Guyana, Suriname, Venezuela, Argentina, Chile, Paraguay, Uruguay, Colombia, Ecuador, and Peru; it has not yet been determined if Amazon frogbit is endemic to Chile.

    This plant thrives in subtropical and tropical climates with nutrient-rich waterways and bright sunlight. It establishes itself on the surface of slow to moderate-moving freshwater ponds, lakes, rivers, and streams, along margins and coastlines.

    When controlled, Amazon frogbit provides food and protection to many aquatic and terrestrial species.

    Are They Invasive?

    When not controlled, Amazon frogbit becomes a huge problem for ecosystems. This plant is incredibly fast-growing and adaptable, making it one of the most opportunistic invasive species of plant. Amazon frogbit has been listed as an invasive species in portions of Europe, Australia, Africa, and some areas of the Americas.

    Amazon frogbit was believed to be introduced to other countries via its use as an ornamental plant and aquarium species.

    While plenty of other plants are invasive, the Amazon frogbit is one of the most damaging. To understand the destruction it can bring to local ecosystems, we must first understand the roles plants play in their respective ecosystems.

    Both terrestrial and aquatic plants have evolved to succeed in their given ecosystem. This involves fast growth rates, good immunity and adaptability, and efficient nutrient uptake. The problem lies in Amazon frogbit’s ability to excel in all of these categories.

    How Fast Do they Grow?

    In the right conditions, Amazon frogbit populations have been known to double in size over the course of a few days. Within weeks, this number can quadruple.

    This extremely fast-growing plant can grow sexually through seed production or asexually through stem fragmentation. Many times, this plant takes advantage of both methods. When sunlight and nutrient needs are met, Amazon frogbit can quickly cover the entire surface of a lake or pond.

    The Problem

    Oxygen and other gases are introduced into and removed from the water column through surface agitation and photosynthesis; photosynthesis is the process by which plants use carbon dioxide and water to create food and oxygen. Surface agitation is influenced by currents, tides, and winds, while photosynthesis is performed by aquatic life.

    When Amazon frogbit covers the surface of an aquatic system, the exchange of oxygen and other gases minimizes. The life below that relies on oxygen to breathe, like fish, invertebrates, and amphibians, begin to experience oxygen depletion, which can bring lethargy and eventual death. But won’t other plants help make up the for the lack of oxygen through photosynthesis?

    No. Once the surface of the water is covered, other plants struggle to receive adequate sunlight, which is necessary for the photosynthetic process. In the meantime, the life that dies and decomposes due to these changes and depletions starts to die and increases nutrient levels in the water, which can lead to even more Amazon frogbit growth.

    As a result, many countries use local weed management agencies to control and eradicate non-native Amazon frogbit populations as soon as possible. To help prevent the spread of this invasive species, never introduce it to outdoor water systems and check with local government regulations.

    Appearance

    Though harmful to ecosystems, Amazon frogbit can make a beautiful addition to the planted aquarium setup when controlled. This plant is very similar in appearance to other floating plants, like duckweed (Lemna minor) and water hyacinth (Eichhornia crassipes).

    Floating Amazon Frogbit

    Amazon frogbit has a miniature lily pad-like appearance, with small circular discs that radiate from a singular nodule; on average, the main stem trails about two inches down into the water column. These light green discs stay under an inch in diameter and close to the water’s surface.

    If lucky, your Amazon frogbit may produce flowers, which can encourage flower pollination in pond and lake ecosystems. If conditions are met, your Amazon frogbit may develop yellow or white flowers.

    What Are Good Fish Tank Mates For This Plant?

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Amazon frogbit is an extremely popular aquarium plant in the freshwater hobby due to its delicate appearance as a floating plant and the shade and protection it can provide to top-dwelling species.

    Good Fish Tank Mates

    Most fish will appreciate the coverage provided by Amazon frogbit. In fact, this plant has been successfully used in both tropical and coldwater aquarium setups!

    The best Amazon frogbit plant tank mates are:

    Livebearers will especially love this plant as both adults and fry can find refuge in the fine trailing hairs of the plant. Both juvenile and adult goldfish will also love Amazon frogbit plants for food–which is very helpful for a goldfish enthusiast looking for a natural, fast-growing food alternative.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Amazon frogbit is kept in all freshwater planted tank setups. This even includes species with an appetite for greens, like goldfish and silver dollars, as this plant can quickly replace itself.

    Another factor that will determine whether or not you can keep Amazon frogbit in your aquarium is the rate of flow. As we’ll see, this plant does not do well when the top of its bright green leaves are exposed to wetness, which can happen if they are pushed underneath the surface by a strong water current.

    Feeding

    Amazon frogbit does not need to be fertilized; extra fertilization isn’t recommended. This plant is very efficient at uptaking any and all nutrients available in the water column, and an additional influx can lead to exponential growth.

    That being said, it is sometimes necessary to add fertilizers to an aquarium that has Amazon frogbit plants. This is because, most times, aquarium owners also keep other plant species. Since the Amazon frogbit is a heavy feeder, nutrients can become scarce for these other species. A delicate balance between fertilizer dosing and Amazon frogbit population control needs to be established for the individual fish tank.

    Because these plants require a constant source of nutrients, adding them to already established aquariums with a relatively high bioload is recommended.

    How To Control Their Growth

    More important than trying to grow Amazon frogbit is keeping up with Amazon frogbit growth. These plants will quickly cover the entire surface of the aquarium water if left to grow.

    The easiest way to control Amazon frogbit growth is by manually removing it. This is done with a siphon, fishnet, or by hand. The removed plants should be securely disposed of to prevent the possibility of introducing them into local waterways.

    If keeping other aquarium plants, then it may also be worthwhile to use an algaecide, like Seachem Flourish Excel. This product introduces bioavailable organic carbon into the water column, helping to prevent algae blooms through an increased plant growth rate. Instead of promoting growth, Seachem Flourish Excel has been known to stop Amazon frogbit growth and even cause it to melt. Sometimes, though, this can cause the plant to flourish instead.


    Seachem Flourish

    An easy to use entry level fertilizer for freshwater planted tanks. Readily available at most stores


    Buy On Amazon

    The next best way to control Amazon frogbit growth is to make sure it doesn’t get into the aquarium in the first place. Not many hobbyists intentionally buy this plant, though it come into their systems as a hitchhiker through other plants or animals. Even if you only have one small leaf of an Amazon frogbit plant, it can quickly propagate into a thick mat.

    Another helpful hint is that Amazon frogbit plants prefer warm and soft water. Keeping them in cooler and harder water reduces the growth rate.

    Care

    The biggest part of Amazon frogbit care is making sure that it doesn’t take over your tank. This freshwater plant can and will survive whatever you put it through, and it’s deemed nearly indestructible. While extremely hardy, there are some basic conditions that need to be met in the home aquarium.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Amazon frogbit can survive in most water parameters. However, it fails to thrive in low-nutrient systems. These plants are heavy water column feeders that need a constant and rich supply of nutrients, namely nitrates.

    This tropical species is native to Central and South America. It needs a tropical water temperature between 64 and 86ยฐF. A water temperature above or below this range can cause growth to be stunted or stopped entirely. Similarly, pH should remain constant between 6.0 and 7.5.

    Otherwise, Amazon frogbit is very forgiving of imperfect water parameters and is sometimes intentionally used to suck up toxic ammonia from the water column. Ideally, Amazon frogbit plants should be kept in water parameters of 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and <20 ppm nitrates; because of their high demand for nutrients, many hobbyists keep a much higher nitrate level than this.

    Nitrates may be introduced into the water column naturally through increased numbers of fish and invertebrates or manually dosed through a dry or liquid fertilizer; root tabs will not feed Amazon frogbit since these plants uptake nutrients from the water column.

    Planted Aquarium Lighting

    Amazon frogbit is an easy floating aquarium plant but requires slightly higher lighting than most other beginner species.

    Amazon frogbit does best when given moderate to high lighting. There is a delicate balance between strong light and the distance between the light and the plant; the floating plants need to get a lot of light, or else they turn brown, but not so much that they start to burn., a 3 to 5 inch clearance between the surface of the water and the light is enough.

    The photoperiod should be between about 7 to 10 hours long.

    Filtration 

    This floating aquatic plant is commonly used for biological filtration in aquariums that lack mechanical filtration. This is because it is very efficient at taking up nutrients, which can then be ultimately removed from the aquarium by removing the plants.

    In general, Amazon frogbit prefers dirty water with lots of nutrients. The level of filtration should be geared towards how big the aquarium is and the amount of bioload entering the system. Amazon frogbit is kept with a sponge, hang on the back, canister, or sump filtration as long as the water surface current doesn’t cause plants to submerge.

    Flow

    More important than filtration is water flow. This floating plant needs to stay floating and will not tolerate being submerged!

    Good surface water agitation is important for gas exchange in the aquarium. However, Amazon frogbit will melt if its leaves stay wet for extended periods of time. An overly strong filter or powerhead can cause these plants to be pushed around the aquarium and become partially or evenly fully submerged. An overly strong current can also cause the trailing roots to get damaged.

    In general, Amazon frogbit should stay wherever it is planted, though a slight current is possible to maintain. To help keep water flow low, return heads is baffled with plastic or other media.

    Controlling

    Unlike other freshwater aquarium plants, Amazon frogbit doesn’t need to be trimmed or pruned. Instead, whole portions of the mat is removed all at once.

    Once established, Amazon frogbit grows in a mat on the surface of the water. Removal is easy by simply picking up the pieces you want to discard; remember to dispose of them in a secure way so that they are not released into local waterways. It should be noted that Amazon frogbit sticks to everything–including hands and arms–so removal is messy (though not as messy as duckweed).

    To help keep Amazon frogbit from taking over the total surface layer of the aquarium, plastic rings may be floated to contain the mat; a DIY solution is gluing air tubing together to create a ring that can float.

    Can You Put Them In A Pond?

    Amazon frogbit is an extremely popular ornamental pond plant that probably shouldn’t be. Amazon frogbit has been introduced to many tropical and subtropical regions of the world as an invasive species. Many times, this was the result of an introduction from an outdoor pond setting.

    Amazon frogbit can cling to the legs of birds and other animals, making transportation easy and almost instantaneous. Runoff and flooding can also contribute to invasive establishments.

    While the Amazon frogbit might seem like the perfect floating plant for ponds, its usage is a huge risk to immediate ecosystems.

    How To Propagate

    In the wild, Amazon frogbit reproduces through seed production and stem fragmentation. Amazon frogbit produces yellow or white flowers that pollinate and give way to seeds. In the aquarium, stem fragmentation is the more likely route for propagation.

    Amazon frogbit mainly reproduces by sending out new plants along its stem. As the new plant develops, the stems separate from each other until they are fully independent. This can happen at a very high rate, with plants sending out several new plants at once.

    If conditions are met, then Amazon frogbit will quickly begin to propagate on its own.

    Is the Amazon Frogbit Right for You?

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Before you buy a Amazon Frogbit, take an honest look at whether your setup and experience level are a good match. This is not about gatekeeping. It is about setting both you and the fish up for success.

    • Experience level: Amazon Frogbit are a solid choice for beginners. They tolerate a range of conditions and bounce back from minor mistakes. If you are new to fishkeeping, this is a forgiving species to start with.
    • Tank size commitment: A 20-gallon tank works as a minimum. This is a manageable size for most hobbyists, which is part of what makes this species accessible.
    • Temperament considerations: Amazon Frogbit is territorial or aggressive. You need to plan tank mates carefully and provide enough space and cover to reduce conflict. They are not a good fit for peaceful community tanks with small, shy fish.
    • Feeding requirements: Amazon Frogbit are omnivores that accept a wide range of foods. A quality pellet or flake as a staple, supplemented with frozen or live foods, keeps them healthy and shows off their best coloration.
    • Group requirements: These are schooling fish that need to be kept in groups of 6 or more. Keeping fewer leads to stress, dull coloration, and abnormal behavior. Budget for the full group, not just one or two.
    • Long-term commitment: Make sure you are ready for the full lifespan of this species. Fish are not disposable pets. Research their needs thoroughly before buying, and make sure you can provide consistent care for years to come.

    Health And Disease

    It is pretty easy to tell a happy Amazon frogbit plant from an unhappy one. Healthy plants will be bright green with spongey leaves, while unhealthy plants will have faded to yellow colors, sometimes even fully transparent.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Color is the main sign of poor health in Amazon frogbit. Reduced growth and propagation rate are another. Loss of color is caused by a few factors, like lighting, moisture, or nutrients.

    Amazon frogbit lives on the surface of the water, where light is the brightest. Though it seems like more light would lead to healthier plants, high lighting can lead to your leaves yellowing and burning. Too little light can also lead to brown, dead leaves.

    These plants are also subject to changes in color if the tops of their leaves have been exposed to wetness or moisture. This can happen if water pushes the leaves underwater or an aquarium lid causes condensation on the leaves. Water flow is reduced, or greater airflow is introduced into the aquarium.

    Lastly, the color of your Amazon frogbit will largely depend on nutrient levels. These are heavy feeders that need a lot of nutrients to stay healthy and to continue to propagate. If color decreases and propagation slows, make sure to test that there are available nutrients in the water column.

    Final Thoughts

    Amazon frogbit is an extremely easy and fast-growing freshwater plant that thrives in tropical and subtropical climates. This floating plant can provide food, shelter, and nutrient export to fish and invertebrates alike. Amazon frogbit can also be used in outdoor pond settings as long as its growth and spread are strictly regulated. Once established, this plant can quickly overrun systems and become invasive.