Tag: Fishkeeping

  • Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: What You Need to Know

    Freshwater Angelfish Care Guide: What You Need to Know

    Table of Contents

    Freshwater angelfish are one of the most popular cichlids in the hobby and one of the most misunderstood. They are not community fish in the way most people think. They eat small tetras, bully slow swimmers, and become territorial nightmares when they pair off. I have kept angelfish for over 25 years and the most common mistake I see is stocking them with fish they will eventually eat. It happens every single time. The community fish that stops being a community fish the moment it is big enough to eat its neighbors.

    The community fish that eats the community.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Freshwater Angelfish

    The most persistent myth about angelfish is that they’re peaceful community fish. They’re cichlids. They eat small fish. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard from keepers who watched their angelfish eat their neon tetras overnight. If it fits in an angelfish’s mouth, it’s food. And adult angelfish have surprisingly large mouths. The other major misconception is tank size. Yes, a single angelfish can technically survive in a 20-gallon tall tank, but a pair or small group needs 55 gallons minimum. Their tall body shape means they need vertical space too, not just footprint.

    Freshwater angelfish are one of the most recognizable fish in the hobby. And one of the most misunderstood. People buy them as juveniles thinking they’re peaceful community fish, then are surprised when a 6-inch adult starts eating neon tetras and bullying everything in the tank. I’ve kept angelfish for years and they’re genuinely wonderful fish, but they need the right setup and the right tank mates. This care guide covers what actually matters from my experience, not just the textbook requirements.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Freshwater Angelfish

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They are graceful and slow. Watching angelfish drift through a planted tank is hypnotic. Their slow, deliberate movements and tall, flowing fins make them one of the most elegant freshwater fish.

    They pair off and breed readily. If you have a group of 6, at least one pair will form and start laying eggs. The breeding behavior is fascinating to watch, but be prepared for increased aggression.

    They recognize feeding time. Angelfish learn your routine quickly. They congregate at the feeding spot before you even open the food container. Some will eat from your fingers.

    Fin nipping is a constant risk. Tiger barbs, serpae tetras, and other nippy species will shred angelfish fins. Those long, flowing fins are irresistible targets. Choose tank mates carefully.

    How the Freshwater Angelfish Compares to Similar Species

    The altum angelfish is the wild cousin that every angelfish enthusiast eventually considers. Altums are taller, more dramatic, and have a presence that domestic angelfish can’t match. But they’re also significantly more demanding. They need soft, acidic water, warmer temperatures (82-86ยฐF), and are much more sensitive to water quality. Domestic freshwater angelfish are reliable, good-looking, and easy to live with. Altums are breathtaking but high-maintenance. Unless you’re experienced with demanding species, start with domestics.

    The discus is the other tall, round South American cichlid that gets compared to angelfish. Discus are more colorful and arguably more beautiful, but they’re in a different league of difficulty. They need warmer water (82-86ยฐF), are extremely sensitive to water quality, and cost significantly more. Angelfish give you about 60% of the discus experience at about 10% of the difficulty and cost. For most keepers, that’s a great trade-off.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    How big do freshwater angelfish get?

    Freshwater angelfish can grow up to 6 inches long and 8 inches tall, including their elongated dorsal and anal fins. In a well-maintained aquarium with proper nutrition, most reach their full size within 12 to 18 months.

    Can angelfish live alone?

    A single angelfish can do fine on its own in a community tank, but they are more confident and display better coloring when kept with a companion or small group. If you go with a pair, watch for territorial behavior during breeding.

    Are angelfish aggressive?

    Angelfish are semi-aggressive, especially during breeding. They establish a pecking order in groups and can bully smaller or slower-moving fish. Providing plenty of vertical space and line-of-sight breaks with tall plants helps reduce aggression.

    What is the ideal tank size for angelfish?

    A 30-gallon tall tank is the minimum for a pair of angelfish. For a small group of four to six, aim for a 55-gallon or larger. The vertical height of the tank matters more than footprint because of their tall body shape.

    How long do freshwater angelfish live?

    With proper care, freshwater angelfish live 8 to 10 years in captivity. Some well-kept specimens have been reported to live even longer. Stable water parameters, a varied diet, and low stress are the biggest factors in longevity.

    Do angelfish eat smaller fish?

    Yes, angelfish are opportunistic feeders and will eat fish small enough to fit in their mouths. Neon tetras and small rasboras are common victims. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten, such as larger tetras, corydoras, or peaceful medium-sized species.

    The Reality of Keeping Freshwater Angelfish

    Angelfish are beautiful and widely available. But the pet store version of what they need and the reality are two different things.

    They eat small fish. Any fish that fits in an angelfish’s mouth is food. Neon tetras, guppies, small rasboras. All fair game once the angelfish reaches adult size. Choose tank mates that are too large to be eaten.

    They need tall tanks. Angelfish grow tall, not just long. Their fins can span 8 to 10 inches vertically. A standard 20 gallon long does not have the height they need. A 55 gallon or taller tank is the minimum for a small group.

    They fight for dominance. In a group of angelfish, a hierarchy forms. The dominant pair claims the best territory and pushes everyone else around. In a tank that is too small, subordinate angels get beaten up constantly.

    Breeding pairs become aggressive. A mated pair of angelfish guarding eggs will attack anything that comes near. This includes tank mates that have lived peacefully with them for years. Be prepared for this shift in behavior.

    Biggest Mistake New Freshwater Angelfish Owners Make

    Keeping them in a tank that is too short. Angelfish need vertical space. A 20 gallon long is a terrible home for angelfish even though it has enough gallons. Get a tank that is at least 18 inches tall, preferably 24.

    Expert Take

    Keep angelfish in a 55 gallon or larger tank that is at least 18 inches tall. Choose tank mates that are too big to eat and too calm to nip fins. Rummy nose tetras, corydoras, and bristlenose plecos are the classic companions for a reason. They work.

    Key Takeaways

    • Freshwater angelfish are peaceful fish that can be kept in a community planted tank.
    • It can be slightly challenging to find appropriate tank mates for angels due to their potential aggression, but they do well with larger tetras and their own species.
    • Angelfish have undergone selective breeding to express the best colors and patterns possible.
    • Breeding angelfish is straightforward and happens on its own in the right settings. This has eliminated the need to collect wild angelfish.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NamePterophyllum scalare
    Common NamesAngelfish, Freshwater angelfish
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginAmazon River system
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityLow
    Lifespan10 to 12 years
    TemperamentPeaceful (Semi-aggressive when breeding)
    Tank LevelAll
    Minimum Tank Size40 gallons
    Temperature Range75. 82ยฐF
    Water Hardness1-5 KH
    pH Range6.0 to 7.0
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedEasy
    CompatibilityCertain community species
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyCichlinae
    GenusPterophyllum
    SpeciesP. Scalare (Schultze, 1823)

    Brief Introduction

    Freshwater angelfish remain one of the most popular fish available in the aquarium hobby. These fish have been around for decades and still hold the hearts of hobbyists everywhere. Check our our video from our YouTube Channel. We have more details in our blog post so you can follow along to both!

    Now more than ever, dozens of angelfish varieties featuring every color and pattern are readily available. Their easy care requirements on top of their simple breeding, make angelfish one of the best feature fish you can have in your freshwater tank.

    There are a few considerations that come along with owning angelfish, though. These fish, scientifically known as Pterophyllum scalare, actually belong to the cichlid family. If you know anything about freshwater fish, then some red flags is going off in your head. Cichlids are aggressive, right?

    Yes, freshwater cichlids are known for being aggressive. However, angelfish are one of the most peaceful cichlid species for the home aquarium. They are often kept with community tank species but can also be kept with other semi-aggressive cichlids. This leaves a lot of possibilities for tank mates and tank setups!

    It should be noted that two other species of angelfish are sometimes seen in the aquarium hobby: P altum (Known as Altum Angelfish) and P leopoldi. For this article, we will only focus on P scalare.

    Do Angelfish Live in Freshwater?

    Yes! Angelfish live in freshwater. But angelfish also live in saltwater. This is a case of stolen identity. Freshwater angelfish are not related to saltwater angelfish. Freshwater angels belong to the Cichlidae family while saltwater angels belong to the Pomacanthidae family. Even as you go further up their scientific taxonomy, there is no connection between these two fish.

    Most likely, they are both regarded as angelfish due to their intricate trailing fins and rounded appearance.

    Origin and Habitat

    Angelfish originate from the Amazon River basin throughout the northern regions of tropical South America. More specifically, they is found in Colombia, French Guiana, Peru, Brazil, and Guyana.

    These fish are found in slow-moving waters filled with vegetation. Water is soft and stained from tannins due to organic matter that falls from the jungle canopy above.

    Today, most aquarium angelfish are bred in captivity. As we’ll see, they are easy to breed and acclimate well to aquarium conditions. This makes transporting them to your own aquarium much easier, with less risk of introducing disease and parasites from wild-caught individuals.

    Appearance

    What’s angelic about a fish? We’ll tell you.

    Freshwater Angelfish

    Angelfish are unlike any other fish available. They have compact yet tall bodies with trailing fins. These long pelvic fins are sometimes known as feelers as they is seen extended forwards and sideways to interpret their surroundings better. With their fins and slow, graceful movements, they effortlessly float from one side of the tank to the other. Some species naturally have red eyes and they make excellent centerpiece fish.

    On top of their ornate appearance, angelfish also come in many different colors and patterns. Here are some of the most common color variation options:

    • Koi angelfish. Named after their resemblance to the coldwater species, koi angelfish feature mottled variations of white, yellow/orange, and black.
    • Marble angelfish. There are a few variations of angelfish within the marble category, including veil tail varieties. These fish often feature black and silver marbling with long, uneven streaks of color. The black marbling varies from fish to fish.
    • Zebra angelfish. Zebra angelfish are similar to their wild-type variations but have much broader and more even alternating silver and black stripes.
    • Silver angelfish. These angels are thought to be the most natural variety, with a silver body and random, thin vertical black stripes.
    • Black lace angelfish – pictured above. This fish offers a silver body with black strips and the trademark red eye
    • Gold angelfish – A light sliver and orange to gold color near the face. You will also see gold marble varieties that will offer black marks across the body and fins
    • Veil angelfish – These fish have long upper and lower fins that make them appear taller in the aquarium. They do best in tall planted tanks.

    How Big Do Freshwater Angelfish Get?

    Don’t be fooled by the small angelfish for sale at your local fish stores. These fish are sold as juveniles but can grow to get quite big over time. Freshwater angelfish can grow to be 6 inches in length and 8 inches tall. It isn’t unheard of for them to reach up to 12 inches in height at mature size.

    Lifespan

    On top of their size, angelfish can live for considerably longer times. Freshwater angelfish can live to be over a decade old, sometimes surpassing 12 years of age!

    This long lifespan is important to keep in mind as they are a long-term commitment. On top of their large size and volatile temperament, angelfish should never be an impulse buy.

    Food and Diet

    To get the best fins and colors out of your angelfish, you want to provide the best food and diet possible. These are large centerpiece fish, but they have small mouths and aren’t overly ambitious when it comes to feeding times. This means that feeding angelfish requires some special attention.

    Angelfish eat at the surface of the water. They may chase after some sinking food, but they prefer a high-quality pellet or flake food that can easily fit in their mouth. It should also be noted that they’re not overly ambitious eaters, and prefer to eat at a relaxed pace. If the other tank mates in the aquarium are overly active, then it is necessary to offer both floating and sinking foods for better distribution.

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    Otherwise, freshwater angelfish will appreciate a variety of live, frozen, and freeze-dried foods, like brine shrimp, mysis shrimp, and mosquito larvae. As omnivores, they is offered a variety of blanched vegetables as well, including cucumber and lettuce. These vegetables is clipped to the side of the aquarium to prevent your angel from dragging its fins across the bottom of the tank.

    How Often Do You Feed Angelfish and How Much?

    In general, aquarium fish should be fed at least once a day. The portion should be able to be eaten within 5 minutes, with the excess being immediately removed from the tank. Many hobbyists prefer to feed their fish in more frequent, smaller portions. An example of this feeding schedule would be a pinch of food in the morning, afternoon, and night.

    Temperament and Behavior

    Angelfish are largely peaceful fish. Many hobbyists keep them without ever having a problem with other fish. Now and again, a hobbyist will experience an overly aggressive angelfish, which taints the name of the species altogether.

    It is true that angelfish is semi-aggressive. Caution should be taken when keeping angels, especially larger individuals, with slow or small fish. When buying angelfish, try to go for juveniles. Sadly, there is probably a reason why a large angelfish has been returned to the store, often caused by over-aggression.

    Otherwise, angelfish are very docile. They is seen floating at the top and in the middle of the water column without hardly moving their fins. They may swim at all levels of the aquarium, but they especially like hanging out by the surface, waiting for food.

    Best Tank Mates

    While often sold as a community fish, angels need some careful tank mate planning. In general, angelfish is kept with most community tank species as long as they aren’t fin nippers or overly active.

    Boesemani Rainbowfish

    It is important to a juvenile angelfish will grow. Just because they is safely kept with certain species while small does not mean that those same tank mates will be compatible in the future. Because of this, it’s best to plan your community aquarium for long-term success.

    Here are some of the best community angelfish tank mates:

    As a cichlid, angelfish can also be kept in freshwater aquariums that feature peaceful cichlids. Here are some of the recommended species:

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    Adult angelfish have been known to be aggressive towards one another. But there’s no denying how incredible these fish look together in planted community tanks!

    These fish are best kept in pairs as male and female in the long term. In larger tanks, small groups of 5 or more may be kept as long as fish are added together at the same time while still juveniles. It’s also strongly recommended to only keep female angelfish together to prevent harassment, though this is difficult as there are minuscule differences between males and females.

    To prevent aggression altogether, only keep a single angelfish in any given tank.

    What Size Tank Do You Need For 2 Angelfish?

    Many hobbyists like keeping freshwater angelfish in pairs. This increases the chances of breeding and also lessens the possibility of aggression arising.

    In general, the bare minimum tank size for any angelfish is 40 gallons. However, if keeping only a single pair of angelfish in an aquarium by themselves, then it’s possible to keep them in a 20 gallon tall aquarium; this is one of the only fish in the aquarium trade that does better in a taller aquarium rather than a long one.

    Do Angelfish Eat Other Angelfish?

    A large, adult angelfish may eat a smaller angelfish. Though these fish have tiny mouths, they’re very capable of bullying other fish until they die. At that point, they may begin to eat the fish. This is especially known to be true for smaller species, like neon tetras.

    Whenever adding angelfish to an aquarium, make sure that they are all relatively the same size and preferably from the same tank.

    Tank Mates to Avoid

    Angelfish tank mates to avoid are smaller, slower fish. Because of this, most species of tetra are incompatible with angels; at the same time, fin-nipping tetra species must also be avoided. Overly aggressive species, like African cichlids, can’t be kept with angelfish as they may injure or stress them out. Lastly, tank mates can’t be overly active as this could also cause damage to your fish or cause unnecessary competition during feeding periods.

    Complete Care Guide

    Once you get the tank mate situation sorted out, angelfish care is easy. These are relatively hardy fish that have been captive bred in the aquarium trade for decades. This has made them very resistant to common aquarium illnesses and forgiving of incorrect water conditions.

    Here are some ways you can give your angelfish the best life possible!

    Aquarium Setup

    The best angelfish aquarium setup will resemble their natural habitat with slow-moving water and dense vegetation. In fact, the angelfish body shape is perfectly designed to flow in and out of live plants. Not only do plants make your fish feel at home, but they also help maintain water quality and lessen the need for tank maintenance.

    On top of live plants, hard structures, like driftwood and smooth rocks, is used to make your fish feel more comfortable.

    Tank Size

    Angelfish can get to be pretty decent sizes, but their relaxed demeanor and ease of care don’t make a large tank necessary.

    What size tank do angelfish need? A single pair of angelfish without any other fish need a 20 gallon tall tank. A pair of angelfish with other community fish need at least a 40 gallon aquarium. A small group of angels should be kept in freshwater aquariums over 100 gallons.

    As mentioned before, a tall tank is better than a long tank when keeping angelfish due to their long, pointed fins.

    Tank Decorations

    Angels are best kept in aquariums that match the conditions of the freshwater rivers and streams that they’re found in, but they have adapted to the more traditional appearance of hobbyist tanks. This means they is kept in a planted aquarium with natural driftwood and rock or colorful decor and pirate ships.

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    Just as long as these decorations are aquarium-safe and won’t tug at your fish’s delicate fins, they is used for an angel tank.

    Substrate

    Similarly, angelfish is kept on an assortment of substrates, like sand, gravel, or even a bare bottom. Sand is beneficial for hobbyists looking to achieve a natural appearance that facilities plant root growth. Gravel is a popular choice for beginner hobbyists that aren’t interested in keeping plants. A bare bottom is great for angel keepers looking to minimize their workload.

    Is the Freshwater Angelfish Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • A true classic for good reason. Angelfish have been popular since the 1930s because they’re beautiful, engaging, and readily available in dozens of varieties.
    • Choose tank mates carefully. No fish small enough to eat (goodbye, neon tetras) and nothing nippy enough to damage their fins (no tiger barbs).
    • Need vertical space. Their tall body shape means tank height matters as much as length. At least 18 inches tall, ideally 24.
    • Can become territorial during breeding. A pair guarding eggs will dominate a significant portion of the tank, pushing other fish out of their territory.
    • Excellent for planted tanks. They look stunning among tall plants like Amazon swords and vallisneria, which also mimic their natural habitat.
    • Plan for a group of 5-6 if you want to see natural pairing behavior. Buying a single angelfish works, but watching a pair form naturally from a group is a special experience.

    Lighting

    Angels aren’t shy fish. In fact, shyness is a sign that something is wrong. For the most part, angelfish are likely to be found in the front of the tank. If they’re hiding in the back, then they is facing bullying from other fish, improper water parameters, or overly intense lighting.

    If you find that your fish is staying in the shadows of your tank, observe for bullying, test water conditions, and try lowering the lighting intensity. Adding floating plants and creating more areas of shade can help your fish feel more comfortable.

    Live Plants

    Live plants are the best tank mates for angelfish! These fish is kept with all species of plant in a high or low tech setting. They especially enjoy floating plant species that provide food and coverage at the top of the tank.

    Tank Maintenance

    If keeping angels in a planted aquarium, then not a lot of tank maintenance is required as the plants will naturally recycle excess nutrients. Here’s how to make sure your angel tank stays running smoothly!

    Filtration and Aeration

    Angelfish do best in an aquarium with little to no water current. However, adequate water flow is necessary for the circulation of gases and nutrients throughout the aquarium.

    For the most part, the current from an appropriately sized hang on the back filter or canister filter will be gentle enough for angels. If you find that your fish is struggling to swim in your aquarium, then it is necessary to baffle the return flow.

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    Angelfish grow to large sizes, which means more waste. Gauge how many fish you have and their size when picking out your aquarium filter. Otherwise, additional aeration is not necessary, though a carbon dioxide diffuser is necessary for heavily planted setups.

    Water Parameters

    Angels are hardy fish, but cannot tolerate traces of ammonia or nitrite. Planted aquariums require nitrate to run, though levels should always remain under 30 ppm. It may be necessary to dose nutrients for healthy plant growth.

    While wild angelfish originate from acidic water conditions, most individuals have been captive bred. This means that they have adapted to average aquarium conditions with a pH between 6.0 and 7.0 and a water temperature between 75 and 82ยฐF.

    Tank Maintenance

    For most aquariums, a 10-25% weekly or biweekly cleaning schedule maintains water parameters. This percentage and frequency may change depending on the number of plants and current bioload in the aquarium. It’s strongly recommended to use an aquarium vacuum while performing a water change to remove any debris or waste that gets stuck in the substrate or between plant stems.

    Another part of maintenance is trimming plants. Though this isn’t required, some plants can grow unruly, which can start to become overwhelming. Not to mention that you will need to keep up with feeding your plants as well.

    Breeding

    Breeding angelfish is easy, fun, and rewarding. These fish are easy to breed as long as you’re able to establish a male and female pairing. Breeding should take place in a separate tank if there are other fish present in the aquarium. A video below by Patrick Neary goes into more detail.

    There are a few differences between male and female angels, but they is hard to see. One of the only, though not always guaranteed, ways to tell these fish apart is by examining their behavior. Male angelfish will show much more territorial behavior than females, though some females is just as aggressive.

    In general, it’s best to shop from pet stores that already have an established breeding pair. Otherwise, a small group of juvenile angelfish is purchased and maintained until a breeding pair has formed.

    Once a pair has formed, they angelfish mate on their own. The water temperature may be slightly elevated, and the quality of food increased to encourage spawning. When ready, the female will release eggs that the male will fertilize. Angelfish parents are very protective of their eggs and should be kept together during this time.

    Within a few days, the eggs will hatch the fry will become free-swimming. Baby brine shrimp are great to feed these newborn fish as the yolk sacs of newly hatched brine shrimp offer a lot of nutritional value to them. The parents will continue offering protection during this time but have been known to eat their fry if not supplied with enough food!

    Fry may be fed tiny foods, like brine shrimp nauplii, until ready to accept bigger portions.

    Fish Diseases

    Though angels are hardy fish, they’re susceptible to a few unique diseases and illnesses. Like other fish, they can contract ich, velvet, and fin rot, especially if their long fins are allowed to scrape across objects in the aquarium. Here are a few less common problems you will experience with your angelfish:

    1. Cloudy eyes. Cloudy eyes are never a good sign in fish. They’re indicative of a larger bacteria, fungus, or parasitic infection. Cloudy eyes are caused by poor water quality and can be treated with consistent water changes and light medication treatment.
    2. Gill flukes. These are parasites that take over the fish’s gills and cause inflammation, difficulty breathing, and secondary infections. Gill flukes are a little more difficult to treat than affected fish experiencing cloudy eyes and can require medication, dips, and consistent water changes.
    3. Hexamita. Another parasitic infection, Hexamita causes hole in the head for angels. This is caused by water quality and can be treated by removing carbon from the aquarium, medications, and water changes.

    When picking out your new fish, find angelfish that are bright in color, round in the head, and with clear eyes. If possible, ask the employees at the pet stores to feed the fish in front of you. There should be no hesitation to eat. Once home, quarantine your angels accordingly.

    Conclusion

    Angelfish are cichlids first and community fish second. Forget that and your neon tetras disappear.

    Angels are very popular fish for a good reason! They are easy to care for, beautiful in color, and a statement piece for any freshwater aquarium. It is slightly challenging to find suitable tank mates for angels, but they do well on their own, in pairs, or with large, moderately active species. When kept in pairs, they’re easy and rewarding to breed!

    South American Cichlid Species Directory

    This article is part of our South American Cichlids: Complete A-Z Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all 32 South American cichlid species we cover.

  • 21 Types of African Cichlids: An Honest Guide to the Best Species

    21 Types of African Cichlids: An Honest Guide to the Best Species

    African cichlids are some of the most visually stunning fish in freshwater. I’ve always said they’re the closest thing to a saltwater display you can get without the saltwater complexity. I’ve set up Malawi and Tanganyika tanks over the years and both have their own distinct character. This guide covers the species I find most interesting and most manageable.

    African cichlids are some of the most colorful freshwater fish on the planet. and I’ve been keeping them for decades across everything from Lake Malawi mbuna setups to Lake Tanganyika shellies. The diversity is staggering: over 1,600 species, wildly different temperaments, and care requirements that vary significantly by species. This guide covers 21 of the best choices I’d actually recommend, with honest notes on what makes each one work (or not) in a home aquarium.

    Key Takeaways

    • African cichlids are some of the most colorful, active, and exotic freshwater fish. They look a lot like tropical reef fish at first glance.
    • Most species come from the hard alkaline waters of Lake Victoria, Tanganyika, and Malawi.
    • Many African cichlids are highly territorial and aggressive, so choose tank mates carefully.
    • Other African cichlids make the best tank mates, but not all species are compatible.
    • Pay close attention to your cichlid’s diet. Many species need a mostly vegetarian diet, and high-protein fish food can cause health problems.

    Major Groups

    African cichlids are a diverse group of freshwater fish found all over the African continent. They range in size from the diminutive 2-inch shell-dwellers to the emperor cichlid that reaches 3 feet!

    Most of the popular African cichlids in the aquarium hobby come from Lake Malawi, although there are many famous species from Lake Tanganyika and Lake Victoria too.

    African cichlids are usually grouped into a few main categories. Let’s take a look at the most popular groups:

    Mbunas

    The mbuna cichlids are some of the most popular African Cichlids in the hobby. These small to medium-sized fish are hardy, colorful, and active. However, mbuna cichlids have a dark side too.

    Mbuna Cichlids

    These fish are highly territorial and can be very aggressive toward other fish. The males are the most aggressive, and they tend to attack other males of their own species or other similar-looking fish.

    Ideally, you should keep them in a species-only setup with one male and a few females, or in a heavily stocked mixed mbuna tank that does not allow enough space for individual territories.

    Mbuna’s come from Lake Malawi and are mostly herbivorous. They will eat some meaty fish food, but too much is very bad for their health.

    Peacocks

    Peacock Cichlids are awesome African cichlids from the Aulonocara genus. The males are some of the most colorful freshwater fish on the planet, although females tend to be drab and mostly brown or gray.

    Blue Peacock Cichlid

    These fish come from Lake Malawi, just like the Mbunas, but that doesn’t mean the two groups make ideal tank mates.

    Peacock cichlids are mostly carnivorous, and they are less aggressive than Mbunas. The differences in diet and the likelihood of fighting make it better to ‘pick a side’ in most cases.

    Peacock cichlids are pretty easy to breed, but you should take care to avoid cross-breeding them with similar species. The females look very similar, so keep just one species in your tank to avoid confusion.

    Haps

    Haps are a diverse group of generally larger carnivorous African cichlids. They are fairly peaceful fish, but many of them of piscivorous which means they will eat any tank mates small enough to swallow.

    Hap Cichlid

    Haps need a large tank with plenty of swimming space to really thrive. Many species will require over a hundred gallons, but there are options for a 75-gallon tank.

    Tropheus

    These popular Lake Tanganyika cichlids are similar in behavior to the mbunas of Lake Malawi. There are about 8 species and they prefer to live in rocky areas, especially with plenty of caves and other hiding spots.

    Tropheus Cichlid

    These African cichlids make fascinating pets in the home aquarium but are highly aggressive and territorial. Tropheus are mostly vegetarian and require a daily supply of spirulina flakes and the occasional supplement of meaty foods like mysis and brine shrimp.

    Shell Dwellers

    African cichlids tend to be medium to large freshwater fish, and most species need a medium to large fish tank. Fortunately, there is a group of dwarf cichlid species that can live in tanks as small as 10 gallons!

    Shell Dwelling Cichlid by Cave

    The shell-dwellers are a fascinating group of African cichlids from Lake Tanganyika that live and breed in the empty shells of aquatic snails. These tiny fish vary from just 1.5 to 2.5 inches and can be kept in small colonies in nano aquariums.

    Western Species

    Most of the popular African cichlids hail from the great African Lakes in the east, although there are a few options from West and Central Africa. Popular West African cichlids include the African butterfly cichlid, the jewel cichlid, and the popular kribensis cichlid.

    Top 21 Types of African Cichlids

    Are you ready to meet 21 amazing African Cichlid species? Check out the following important facts for each species before choosing your next fish:

    • Scientific Name
    • Size
    • Minimum Tank Size
    • Lake Type
    • Cichlid Type
    • Color Form
    • Water Temperature
    • pH
    • Hardness requirements
    • Diet

    We have a video below from our YouTube Channel. Subscribe to us if you like our content. We post new videos every week!

    Let’s get started!

    1. Yellow Lab

    Yellow Lab Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Labidochromis caeruleus
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Yellow
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.7 – 8.6
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Mostly vegetarian

    The yellow lab cichlid is one of the most popular and recognizable African cichlids in the hobby. These small mbunas from Lake Malawi are bright yellow with a black eye and a black stripe along their dorsal fin.

    Yellow lab cichlids can be kept in a colorful mixed mbuna community with other Lake Malawi cichlids or you can give them their own tank and start a breeding project.

    2. Malawi Trout

    • Scientific Name: Champsochromis caeruleus
    • Size: 13 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large predator hap
    • Color Form: Mostly blue
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Meaty foods like prawns and mussels, supplemented with dried foods

    The Malawi trout (video source) is a lean, mean predatory cichlid species and a real showstopper in a large African cichlid tank. These fish stand out with long, flowing dorsal and anal fins and a strong triangular tail for speed.

    This is an active swimming cichlid that needs plenty of space. These fish are not particularly aggressive toward similar-sized species, but they will eat anything small enough to fit in that large mouth.

    3. Fossorochomis rostratus

    • Scientific Name: Fossorochomis rostratus
    • Size: 10 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large hap
    • Color Form: Mostly blue
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivore, prefers live and frozen foods like brine shrimp and bloodworm

    Fossorochomis rostratus (video source) is a large African cichlid with some interesting behaviors. The males are more colorful and have beautiful metallic blue coloration mixed with various shades of purple, green, and yellow. Younger fish have prominent dark blotches along their sides, and mature males develop black bellies.

    This peaceful cichlid has the fascinating habit of diving into the sand to look for food or escape predators. They should not be kept with aggressive and territorial species, and a small group of one male and a few females is ideal.

    4. Lemon Jack Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara jacobfreibergi
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, provide spirulina, fine dried foods, and live/frozen foods.

    The Lemon Jake peacock (video source) is a stunning blue and yellow variety of the popular Aulonocara jacobfreibergi cichlid from Lake Malawi. This form occurs naturally around the Undu Reef on the Tanzanian coast.

    These fish are often aggressive toward other species with similar colors, and males will fight with each other. Keep a group of one male and a few females to see them on their best behavior.

    5. Johanni

    Electric Blue Johanni Fish
    • Scientific Name: Melanochromis johanni
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Yellow/orange (female) electric blue and black (adult)
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Spirulina and greens with some live/frozen foods

    The Johanni cichlid is a beautiful but aggressive species that does great in busy mbuna cichlid tanks. These fish can be kept in a relatively small tank, although a larger aquarium is recommended for a great mixed mbuna community tank.

    The sexes are easy to distinguish by colors, with bright blue males and yellow females. Like most other Mbunas, it’s best to keep one male with a small group of females to prevent aggression.

    6. Frontosa

    Frontosa Cichlid in Aquarium
    • Scientific Name: Cyphotilapia frontosa
    • Size: 10 – 14 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 125 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Large rock-dwelling cichlid
    • Color Form: Black, blue, and white
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 8 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivore. Provide spirulina, greens, frozen foods, and quality pellets

    Frontosa cichlids are large and distinctive aquarium fish with bold black bars on a blue/white body. Males develop a large nuchal bump on their foreheads, which is why these fish are also known as humphead cichlids.

    Frontosa cichlids inhabit rocky areas in the deep waters of Lake Tanganyika, sometimes over 200 feet below the surface. They are generally peaceful but require a very large aquarium to mimic their natural environment.

    7. Buccochromis rhoadesii

    • Scientific Name: Buccochromis rhoadesii
    • Size: 16 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 100 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large Hap
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed meaty foods

    Buccochromis rhoadesii (video source) is a large predatory cichlid that hunts by chasing down smaller fish. These colorful fish are also known as the yellow lepturus cichlid. This is an active species that requires a large aquarium to thrive, although they can be kept with a number of other large haps.

    8. Ngara Flametail

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara stuartgranti
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock cichlids
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 84 ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    The Ngara flametail is one of the most beautiful African cichlids in the hobby. They are a smaller form of the well-known Grant’s Peacock cichlid from Lake Malawi.

    Ngara flametails are a good choice for beginners because they are fairly peaceful, hardy, and they can even be kept with some live plants. However, males may attack similar-colored fish, so keep this in mind when selecting tank mates.

    9. Malawi Hawk

    • Scientific Name: Aristochromis christyi
    • Size: 10 – 12 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 150 gallons
    • Lake Type: Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Large predatory hap
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Meaty foods like prawns and mussels, supplemented with quality pellets.

    The Malawi hawk (video source) is a large and colorful hap species that hunts and eats smaller cichlids in the wild. It gets its name from its beak-like mouth which allows it to swallow fish up to four inches long!

    The Malawi Hawk might be dangerous to smaller fish, but they are surprisingly peaceful with large tank mates. They can be kept with other large Lake Malawi species like the Malawi trout and Fossorochomis rostratus.

    10. Maulana Bicolor Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara stuartgranti
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock cichlid
    • Color Form: Blue and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    The Maulana bicolor peacock cichlid is another great variety of Grant’s peacock, a widespread cichlid in Lake Malawi. This form comes from the Chitimba Bay area on the northwest coast.

    Male Maulana bicolor peacocks are electric blue with a characteristic yellow/orange stripe just behind the head. The smaller females have dull brown colors and are difficult to distinguish from other female peacocks.

    11. OB Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Hybrid
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Captive bred
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: ‘Orange blotch’
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.4
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous but requires a meaty diet

    OB peacock cichlids (video source) are gorgeous hybrid fish developed by crossing different species. The original species combination is unknown, but many aquarists believe it involved a male peacock and a female mbuna.

    OB stands for orange blotch, which is a pretty good description of their colors! However, these fish are available in many other color patterns, including shades of blue, pink, and yellow. You won’t find them in nature, and each specimen is truly unique when it comes to its colors and patterns.

    12. Eureka Red Peacock

    Eureka Red Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara jacobfreibergi
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and Orange
    • Water Temperature: 77 – 84ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous, provide spirulina, fine dried foods, and live/frozen foods.

    The Eureka red cichlid is another great variety of the popular Aulonocara jacobfreibergi peacock from Lake Malawi. The males are predominantly orange with varying amounts of dark blue, creating a very eye-catching centerpiece fish.

    13. Sulphurhead Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara maylandi
    • Size: 4 – 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Black, blue, and yellow
    • Water Temperature: 74 – 82 ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Flakes, pellets, and frozen foods

    The sulphurhead peacock cichlid is a striking species with a yellow blaze that runs from its nose to the start of the dorsal fin. This bright yellow streak continues along the top of the dorsal fin, and they often have a yellow lower edge of the anal fin too.

    These beautiful African cichlids are very peaceful so they are not suited to cichlid communities with more boisterous species. However, they really shine in species-only cichlid aquariums.

    14. Lwanda Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara sp. ‘Lwanda’
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 75 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Blue and orange
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 8.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, feed them quality flakes or pellets and live/frozen foods

    The Lwanda peacock cichlid is a deep-bodied species with shapely fins. Males have an interesting mix of colors, combining blue and orange on the body and fins.

    These territorial fish should be kept in a small group consisting of one male and a few females. They are fairly easy to breed but may hybridize with other Aulonocara species.

    15. Dragon Blood Peacock

    • Scientific Name: Aulonocara sp. hybrid
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 55 gallons
    • Lake Type: Captive bred
    • Cichlid Type: Peacock
    • Color Form: Red/pink
    • Water Temperature: 78 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.6
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous, provide quality flakes or pellets and live/frozen foods

    The dragon blood peacock is another Aulonocara hybrid with unique colors and markings. These fish are also known as fire cichlids, and they are usually available in shades from pink to bright red. The head and fins are often a lighter color varying from white to light blue.

    They are fairly aggressive peacocks but can be kept in a well-planned African cichlid community. Like other peacocks, the dragon blood will sift through the sand in search of food.

    16. Cobalt Blue Zebra

    Cobalt Zebra Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Maylandia callainos
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Rock-dwelling mbuna
    • Color Form: Blue and black
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.6 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed spirulina flakes and greens supplemented with live/frozen foods

    Cobalt blue zebra cichlids have a striking blue color, often with a series of vertical black bars on their sides. They are good mbunas for beginner cichlid keepers, although they are aggressively territorial like most other fish in their family.

    Fortunately, aggressive behavior can be limited by choosing the right tank mates and keeping just one male in the same tank. They will do best in a heavily stocked mbuna tank, and a group of one male and a few females is recommended.

    17. Red Zebra

    <a href=Red Zebra Cichlid” class=”wp-image-1068151″/>
    • Scientific Name: Pseudotropheus estherae
    • Size: 5 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Orange
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Provide greens, spirulina flakes, and live/frozen foods.

    The red zebra cichlid is another great mbuna from Lake Malawi. These fish are one of the most popular African cichlids because both males and females have a great orange color. Like other Mbunas, these fish are naturally territorial and aggressive.

    18. Saulosi

    The Saulosi cichlid (video source) is known as a dwarf mbuna because they usually grow to just 3.5 inches or so. These fish really draw attention, and males and females add variety with completely different colors! Males are electric blue with dark vertical stripes and females are plain yellow/orange.

    They are true Mbunas, although they are less aggressive than other species from this group. Keep these fish in a rocky aquascape that mimics their natural habitat.

    19. Calvus

    Calvus Fish
    • Scientific Name: Altolamprologus calvus
    • Size: 3-6 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 30 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Predatory rock-dweller
    • Color Form: Black and white
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 80ยฐF
    • pH: 7.5 – 9
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Carnivorous. Provide meaty frozen foods

    The calvus cichlid is a unique predatory fish with a strange body shape and dramatic markings. They may not have any bright colors, but their spectacular spots and stripes make them stand out in any aquarium!

    Calvus are predators, with big mouths for swallowing live prey like insects and small fish. They are not aggressive towards similar-sized fish and should not be kept with other boisterous fish like mbunas or tropheus.

    20. Demasoni

    Demasoni Fish
    • Scientific Name: Pseudotropheus demasoni
    • Size: 3 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 40 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Malawi
    • Cichlid Type: Mbuna
    • Color Form: Blue and black
    • Water Temperature: 75 – 82ยฐF
    • pH: 7.8 – 8.8
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 15 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed mostly spirulina flake and greens but supplement with live/frozen foods.

    Demasoni cichlids are small but highly aggressive Lake Malawi Cichlids that are not afraid to tackle larger species. They can be kept with other mbunas but it’s best to avoid similar-looking tank mates.

    Both males and females are great-looking fish, and they can be tricky to sex. However, males grow larger than females and are more aggressively territorial.

    21. Duboisi

    Tropheus Cichlid
    • Scientific Name: Tropheus duboisi
    • Size: 4.8 inches
    • Minimum Tank Size: 29 gallons
    • Lake Type: Lake Tanganyika
    • Cichlid Type: Rock dwellers
    • Color Form: Black and white
    • Water Temperature: 73 – 81ยฐF
    • pH: 8 – 9.5
    • Hardness requirements: 10 – 20 dKH
    • Diet: Omnivorous. Feed mostly spirulina flake and greens but supplement with live/frozen foods.

    The duboisi cichlid is also known as the white spotted cichlid because it has white spots on a black body when young. Mature fish fade to a blue-black shade and develop a single white bar on either side of their body.

    These fish are highly aggressive toward their own species but relatively peaceful with other fish. They can be kept as a single specimen or in a large school (15+) in a limited space.

    Tank Setup and Care Tips

    African cichlids are hardy and easy to keep if you choose their tank mates correctly and provide them with a healthy natural environment. Let’s run through a few important African cichlid care tips.

    Tank Size

    Most African cichlids need a medium to large aquarium, although some of the dwarf cichlid species like Neolamprologus can be housed in a 10 to 20-gallon tank.

    30 gallons is the minimum for some of the dwarf Mbunas and peacocks, but a 55-gallon tank is the recommended starting point for an African cichlid community.

    Diet

    African cichlids are a diverse group of fish, so a one-size-fits-all approach is not recommended. These fish can be very sensitive to poor nutrition, and easily develop problems like obesity and even dangerous health conditions like Malawi bloat.

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    Most African cichlids can be fed prepared foods like cichlid pellets and spirulina flakes, although a more balanced diet is necessary for long-term health. The mbunas in particular require a low-protein diet consisting of algae and vegetable matter, with the occasional meaty supplement.

    Choosing Tank Mates

    Choosing tank mates for African cichlids can be a daunting task. Often the best results come from intentionally overstocking their tank so there is no room for them to claim any territories.

    Make sure to research compatibility carefully before adding new fish to your tank, and remember that sex ratios can be just as important as a species selection.

    It’s also possible to attempt an all male cichlid tank. For further details on how to attempt this I suggest checking out the this cichlid forum.

    Maintenance

    African Cichlids are pretty messy fish, and a heavily stocked community tank is going to need high filtration and regular maintenance. Over-filtering is the norm with these tanks, and weekly water changes are recommended to manage nitrate levels.

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    FAQs

    What Is The Most Common African Cichlid Species?

    Mbuna cichlids are the most popular African cichlid species in the hobby. Red zebra cichlids and yellow labs are some of the most common species in the aquarium trade for their amazing colors and high activity levels.

    What Are The 2 Main Groups Of Cichlids?

    The two main groups of cichlids are the African cichlids and the New World cichlids. Most of the African cichlids come from the great lakes of East Africa, whereas the New World cichlids come from North, Central, and South America.

    How Many Types Of Malawi Species Are There?

    There are a staggering 850 species of Cichlids in Lake Malawi. Of course, not all of these fish are available or even suitable for aquariums, but there is still a multitude of Malawi cichlids available in the aquarium trade.

    What Is The Rarest Species?

    There are a staggering 850 species of Cichlids in Lake Malawi. Of course, not all of these fish are available or even suitable for aquariums, but there is still a multitude of Malawi cichlids available in the aquarium trade.

    What Is The Rarest Species?

    At least 52 cichlid species are classified as endangered and a further 106 as critically endangered. Many species are threatened by overfishing, pollution, and the introduction of non-native fish. The Lake Victoria Cichlids, for example, are under serious threat after the Nile Perch was introduced in the 1950s.

    What Are Some Of The Most Peaceful Species?

    African Cichlids have a reputation for being aggressive fish, so they are hardly ever a safe option for a peaceful community tank. However, there are some species that stand out as more peaceful than the rest.

    Frontosa Cichlids may have an intimidating look, but they are actually gentle giants in an African cichlid aquarium. The kribensis cichlids are one of the few African species that can be kept in a small community tank with other popular freshwater fish species, although they can be aggressive when breeding.

    Final Thoughts

    African cichlids are real eye candy for fish lovers. Their bright colors, interesting behaviors, and high activity levels make an African cichlid tank one of the most captivating to keep. Hopefully, you have enjoyed this article and learned more about some of Africa’s most exciting freshwater fish!

    Do you keep African cichlids? Tell us about your favorite species in the comments below!

  • How to Tell If a Goldfish Is Male or Female (5 Reliable Ways)

    How to Tell If a Goldfish Is Male or Female (5 Reliable Ways)

    Telling male from female goldfish is trickier than most people expect. outside of spawning season, even experienced keepers can get it wrong. I get asked about this a lot, especially from people trying to set up a breeding pair or figure out why their fish are suddenly chasing each other around the tank.

    The honest answer is there’s no single foolproof method. You’re looking at a combination of physical cues, and most of them only become obvious when the fish are sexually mature and in breeding condition. Here are the five most reliable signs to look for.

    Key Takeaways

    • Goldfish are relatively easy to breed, but their intense care requirements and large brood sizes should be considered before attempting to do so.
    • Male fish are smaller yet brighter in coloration and may display breeding tubercles. Female goldfish may develop a noticeable vent and grow rounder in body shape but lack tubercles.
    • Goldfish are egg scatterers that will eat their eggs once done with the spawning process. Because of this, they do best when bred in a separate tank with controlled settings.

    Introduction To Goldfish

    Goldfish are not a naturally-occurring fish. Goldfish, scientifically known as Carassius auratus, are largely domesticated forms of crucian carp (Carassius carassius). Over centuries, goldfish have been bred to express the brightest colors and to feature interesting ‘fancy’ body modifications, such as telescope eyes and unique tail fin shape. Each modification is considered a breed of Carassius auratus despite the many differences between each individual.

    In the past, goldfish were bred for luck and fortune. Today, some of the rarest breeds of goldfish can also go for large amounts of money, like the Tosakin breed which can sell for several hundred dollars. However, most hobbyists breed their goldfish for the experience as they are relatively easy to breed. Goldfish populations can easily sustain themselves in outdoor ponds and lakes as long as conditions are met.

    It should be noted that goldfish produce large broods and hobbyists can become overwhelmed with the number of goldfish they end up with. No matter what, never release domesticated, invasive fish into the wild. This can be destructive to the native ecosystem and to the individual fish.

    How To Tell If Goldfish Is Male Or Female

    Whether you intend to breed your fish or not, you should identify the gender of your goldfish. This could potentially stop any unwanted broods as well as give a better idea of your available breeding stock; for example, if you’re trying to breed a certain color or feature, you will need to know what breed the parents need to be in order to achieve those desired effects. We have a video below from ThinFrog for a visual ad.

    Luckily, telling male and female goldfish apart is straightforward as they express sexual dimorphism, or outward differences between the two genders.

    There are several differences between male and female goldfish. These physical and behavioral differences include:

    1. Presence of tubercles. When sexually mature, male goldfish develop small white dots on their gills called breeding tubercles (also known as breeding stars). These are a cluster of small, white dots that rise above the skin of the gill covers; they may also sometimes appear on the pectoral fins. This can immediately be alarming to hobbyists as breeding tubercles are very similar in appearance to parasitic ich.

      However, if the white dots stay isolated to the gill plates and other displayed behaviors align with breeding patterns, then these are most likely breeding tubercles.It is not fully understood why male goldfish develop these breeding tubercles, but it’s strongly believed that they help demonstrate strong genes to prospective females.

      It should be noted that not all males display breeding tubercles, especially young goldfish that are still in their juvenile stage. However, female goldfish will never develop breeding tubercles.
    2. Rich appearance. Like other fish and animals, male goldfish tend to be more flashy than their female counterparts. In general, male goldfish are brighter and more intense in coloration and have longer, more flowy fins. They also have more pointy pectoral fins and anal fins that are closer to the tail fin than female goldfish.
    3. Different body shapes. On top of differences in cosmetic appearance, male and female goldfish have different body shapes that make them pretty easy to tell apart. Again, like other fish, females are much larger, rounder, and plumper than the more compact and streamlined body shape of their male gold fish counterparts.
    4. Different vents. Another way to tell male and female goldfish apart is by looking at their vents, or the fish’s opening to their digestive and reproductive tracts. This difference between male and female fish can only really be seen during the spawning season but is very obvious otherwise.When the female goldfish becomes ready during the spawning season, the fish will have a noticeable, often white, protruding vent near its anal fin. This is in contrast to male goldfish that will have a flat vent shape.
    5. Behavioral differences. Lastly, goldfish gender can be determined by observing behavioral changes during the breeding season; male goldfish are generally more dominant outside of these periods, but this becomes especially noticeable when there is a viable female nearby.When the female goldfish is ready to breed, the male will begin to chase after her. The female is chased while the male goldfish is the chaser.

    Can They Be Both Genders?

    No, goldfish are not hermaphrodites. This means that when they are born, they are born one gender and stay that gender for the entirety of their lives.

    Can They Change Genders?

    No, the gender of your goldfish cannot change. While some tropical fish can change their gender based on changing environmental circumstances, goldfish will stay either male or female for their entire life.

    Introduction To Breeding

    Goldfish are not difficult to breed, but this doesn’t mean they should be bred by anyone. Unfortunately, there is an overflow of goldfish available, namely common goldfish. As a result, they’re sold as feeder fish or as prizes at carnivals. Because of their low expense and ease of breeding, they are usually kept in horrible pet store conditions. Their low cost also fools beginner hobbyists into believing they are easy fish to keep.

    As a responsible breeder, you must be able to safely and confidently rehome potentially hundreds of fish after the mature goldfish pair has spawned. In fact, it isn’t unheard of for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time. Also, keep in mind that these fish can spawn several times throughout the spawning season.

    Ryukin Goldfish

    Goldfish breeders should be aware of goldfish needs, including some handicaps that come along with owning fancy goldfish breeds. For example, some fancy goldfish struggle to swim due to excess finnage.

    Otherwise, breeding goldfish is straightforward and easy as long as you are able to tell males and females apart.

    Why Are They Chasing Each Other?

    As mentioned before, male goldfish will chase females when they’re ready to spawn. This is considered a dancing behavior that encourages the female to release her eggs. However, this can become overwhelming for the female if the male is especially persistent.

    If your male goldfish is chasing your female goldfish outside of the breeding season, then there could be a problem regarding space, water quality, or compatibility. These fish may need to be separated at this point.

    How Do You Know If Your Fish Is Pregnant?

    Goldfish do not become pregnant. Goldfish are egg scatterers. This means that when ready, the female goldfish will release her eggs into the water column for the male the fertilize them. These are sticky eggs that can get caught on live plants, aquarium equipment, or other spawning aids.

    However, female goldfish tend to become rounder in body shape when they’re full of unfertilized eggs. This can definitely give them the appearance of being pregnant though they’re not actually carrying goldfish fry.

    How Do You Know When They Are Laying Eggs?

    Goldfish eggs are macroscopic and easily seen by the human eye. Eggs that are white or clear in color are unfertilized. Fertilized eggs are light brown or yellow in color. As the fertilized eggs develop, a noticeable dark spot will grow in the center of the egg.

    There are many obvious signs that your male and female goldfish are ready to spawn, including physical and behavioral changes. When ready, you will see the female releasing her eggs.

    How To Breed Them

    The best way to breed goldfish is by setting up a separate breeding tank with the same parameters as the display tank or pond. Keeping the goldfish pair in the same tank as other fish and their eggs/fry greatly decreases the chances of success at raising them until adulthood, as the adults are likely to eat their own babies.

    Aquarium Setup

    In a pond setting, goldfish spawn as soon as temperatures start to rise. Goldfish go into hibernation in the winter and emerge during late spring and early summer for the breeding season. Most goldfish reach sexual maturity around 1 year of age.

    In the aquarium, this change in temperature can be replicated by gradually increasing the water temperature. Depending on the initial temperature of your goldfish tank, you may need to first lower the temperature to replicate winter conditions, though this is not usually necessary.

    Ideally, the starting water temperature should be between 50-54ยฐ F. Over the course of a few days, gradually increase the temperature by about 3 degrees per day until the water reads between 68-74ยฐ F. These water temperature changes should encourage breeding behavior and eventual spawning.

    Goldfish aren’t overly aggressive fish during the breeding season, but males tend to become overambitious when courting a female. The ideal setup would include several females to one male to avoid over-harassment due to the increased chasing behavior. Many hobbyists are successfully able to breed a solitary pair of goldfish without involving other males or females.

    The breeding aquarium should be empty without substrate or decorations. A strong sponge filter with seeded media should be used to cycle the aquarium. As goldfish are messy fish, they need good filtration while keeping delicate eggs and fry safe. A sponge filter allows for good circulation and filtration while not sucking up the babies.

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    Live plants, like water lettuce (Pistia stratiotes) or Java moss (Vesicularia dubyana), may be used to collect the fertilized eggs. However, goldfish may also see these plants as a snack and make a messy aquarium instead. If you’re looking for a cleaner and more controllable alternative to live plants, then you may use a plastic egg crate or a specific aquarium spawning mat that will catch the eggs and keep them safe.

    Spawning

    Once the water temperature has been adjusted to mimic the breeding season and the tank is made comfortable for both the male and female goldfish, spawning may occur. This is a lengthy process and can take several hours. Remember, it’s possible for goldfish to lay 1,000 eggs at a time!

    The female will begin releasing eggs and the male will follow close behind, releasing milt. This can cause the water to become temporarily cloudy. The eggs are sticky and will adhere to the live plants or other spawning material. Unfertilized eggs will be clear while fertilized eggs will be yellowish-tan.

    Raising The Fry

    Once spawning has finished, both the male and female fish should be removed from the tank to prevent them from eating the eggs.

    Over the course of the next 3 days, the eggs will develop. Dark structures will begin to form in the middle of the egg until the fry is ready to hatch. After that, the fry will survive on their yolks for about another 3 days. During this time, they will stay stuck to the aquarium glass or other surfaces and do not need to be fed during this time.

    Once their yolks have been depleted, they will become free swimming. At this time, they can be fed small foods until ready to accept regular fish food. After a couple of months, they may be released into the main aquarium or pond or given to other goldfish keeper enthusiasts.

    Conclusion

    Breeding goldfish is relatively straightforward, but their potential adult size, large brood size, and space requirements should be considered before starting the process. If you have everything you need to raise hundreds of goldfish, then you will need to be able to tell if your fish is male or female. This can be determined through physical and behavioral changes.

    From there, spawning can take place and the fry can be successfully raised.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

    References

  • Aquascape Ideas: The 5 Main Styles and How to Set Each One Up

    Aquascape Ideas: The 5 Main Styles and How to Set Each One Up

    Aquascaping is one of the more creative sides of this hobby, and something I’ve spent a lot of time experimenting with over the years. My personal approach leans toward the natural planted style. soil capped with gravel or sand, low-tech, letting the plants do the heavy lifting. But there’s a whole spectrum here, from the highly structured Dutch style to wild jungle scapes, and each approach has its own philosophy, equipment requirements, and skill level.

    Whether you’re setting up your first planted tank or trying to give an existing one a real visual identity, understanding the five main styles will help you pick a direction that fits your budget, patience, and goals. Here’s a breakdown of each.

    Key Takeaways

    • Aquascaping is an underwater living art form that creates stunning underwater landscape
    • There are several popular styles that are used in aquascaping with Nature Aquariums being the more predominant
    • They involved aquascaping rocks, driftwood, and aquatic plants
    • They often will require CO2 injection to enhance growth

    How to Get Started?

    If you’re completely new to aquascaping, the very first thing you’ll need to do is decide on what type of critter are you looking to keep, or if this is going to be a one hundred percent horticulturist endeavor?

    And I say critter because with all the options of aquascaping available, it’s possible to keep anything from fish to small shrimp and even frogs. So the more you understand what type of aquatic creatures you’re trying to make happy, the easier it will be to try and replicate their natural habitat, or at least somewhere they’d enjoy living.

    For example, if I wanted to have a beautiful nature aquariums with small freshwater shrimp and a few tetras, I would opt for an Iwagumi style set up. Or for fish like Cichlids, I would use the Biotope Style.

    But if this is simply for your enjoyment and have no plans on keeping any specific aquatic pets, then there’s a whole world for you to consider.

    Understanding what’s going to live in your newly created natural habitat, or not, can help narrow down your focus and shorten the learning curve considerably.

    Considerations

    • What will live in the tank
    • How big is your tank
    • How much are you willing to spend
    • How much time do you have for maintenance
    • Your personal aesthetics

    What’s Next?

    Now that you have an idea of what will live in your freshwater aquarium and a taste of what’s involved, it’s time to see what style you would want to recreate in your own tank.

    This is aquascaping, simply landscaping under water in a confined space. So the best place to see what you might like is to look at some regular landscaping pictures.

    Type in something like ‘beautiful landscapes’ into your search engine and click ‘images’. You’ll be presented with thousands of images, all of them potential aquascapes for you to clone and experiment with.

    CO2 Injected Planted Tank

    Choose a few images that really inspire you, and notice what they all have in common. Are they all sprawling grass fields, or forest covered mountains?

    This is what you feel is beautiful or have some sort of connection with, and it’s also what you should be working towards in your own aquascape ideas. After all, it’s you that needs to see it everyday!

    Once you have an idea of what you connect with, explore the different styles of aquascaping to see which style most resembles your personal choices. It’ll be easier to understand one style’s complexities than trying to learn the whole hobby at one go.

    Just like in ‘real’ landscaping, there are a lot of styles of aquascaping and you just need to figure out which aquascape ideas float your boat.

    Once you narrow your focus on which style resonates with you, then you can go deeper into researching everything that goes into that particular aquascape.

    Here Are A Few Of The Main Aquarium Styles

    Nature Aquarium Styles

    Nature Style Aquarium Example

    Nature aquariums are definitely one of the most popular aquascaping ideas and was originally developed by Takashi Amano from Japan. Takashi took what he knew, and incorporated the lush high mountain peaks of Japan into his art using aquascaping rocks, mosses and other aquatic plants and hardscapes.

    His style is one in tune with nature and wanting to bring the beauty of large landscapes into a small underwater space. Everything is as natural looking as possible and well balanced for a sense of serenity when looking at one of his creations.

    Dutch Aquarium Style

    Originating in the Netherlands, Dutch aquascaping is characterized as vibrant and full of color and variety. This planted aquarium style focuses on aquatic plants rather than other materials.

    Dutch Aquascape

    More of an underwater flower garden, Dutch aquarium aquascapes contain patches of a wide variety of plant species that are arranged neat rows and patterns. The densely planted aquariums are well manicured and are reminiscent of the old traditional gardens of the Netherlands.

    Iwagumi Style

    The Iwagumi aquascape originated with the same man who started the Nature Aquarium style, Takashi Amano. Only this time, he went for a super minimalist appearance creating sprawling low landscapes that bring the eye to a few key focal points, usually strategically placed stones all having their own importance in the overall balance of the Iwagumi aquascape.

    Short aquatic mosses help create a sense of grandeur of the jutting rocks while giving the Iwagumi aquascape a life form all its own.

    Biotope Style

    Biotope aquascapes are great when you have a certain species of aquarium fish you want to keep and pamper as best you can. The aquascapes are literal miniature ecologically correct environments that replicate the fish’s natural habit down to the last detail.

    These can include what you’d naturally find in rivers, swamps, or other aquatic terrains. Done right, your aquarium fish should never realize they are in a fish tank and not in their natural habitat.

    Paludarium Style

    One of the more difficult aquascaping styles to pull off, these aquascaping ideas require three key components; water, land, and a canopy portion. That means your tank will never be completely filled with water which is perfect if you want to keep a small frog or two. You can see a world class Paludarium below from Green Aqua’s YouTube channel.

    They include terrestrial plants and aquatic plants, making them a true biozone. And although they may be a bit more complicated, they do open up the possibilities when it comes to what you can keep in your tanks.

    Setting Up Your Tank

    When it comes to your aquarium, you really want to go with the largest freshwater aquarium you can afford or fit in your space. A twenty gallon fish tank and a few plants is a great start, but a hundred gallons is even better. Only go with small aquariums if you’re working with a really tight budget.

    Youโ€™ll also want to use a rimless tank that doesnโ€™t have any braces or other materials that take away from your aquascape. You want a tank that is pure glass and a solid stand.

    As far as a stand, itโ€™s a good idea to get a cabinet type. Youโ€™ll need a few tools and possibly a CO2 tank for your aquascape, and it makes it easier to hide all your equipment so everything looks as clean and professional as possible.

    Personally, I like a very dark colored cabinet stand so when the aquascaping lights are on, you donโ€™t even notice whatโ€™s underneath the aquarium.

    Substrates

    Substrates are extremely important in a planted tank due to all of the live plants you’ll be working with. It’s needs to be both fertile enough to sustain your aquatic plants, and hardy enough for the plants to root in and support rooting plant growth.

    If you’re only working with carpeting plants like mosses, then your plant substrate isn’t as important. But even small plants need something to grow in.

    And just like the live plants that grow in your yard, many aquatic plants pull nutrients from the soil using their roots. That means your plant substrate will need to include these nutrients and possibly be easy enough to change or add more when they’re depleted.

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    Walstad Method

    The best method for achieving a well balanced planted tank is the Walstad Method.

    This method of growing aquatic plants in aquascapes is named after the woman named Diana Walstad who literally wrote the book on it, (see: ‘ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM – A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist’).

    When done correctly, this method provides all the nutrients your aquatic plants will need and you won’t need to change the soil or add any additional nutrients. You can see an example of this setup from Ceyhun Derindere Aquatics’ YouTube Channel.

    This is because the plants will quickly create a chemically balanced biological ecosystem within your tank and break down any fish refuse to be used by your plants as fertilizer.

    Once established, you shouldn’t even need to use a filtration system for your tank as the plant life and biological ecosystem created naturally does all the work for you.

    All you need to do is get some quality potting soil that you can find at any garden center. Just make sure there are no added chemical fertilizers!

    Add at least one inch of the soil in the bottom of your tank. Then add a thin layer of sand, or 2 inches of medium fine gravel so the soil can always breathe. That’s it!

    The only thing you need to be aware of is you must give your fish tank a minimum of two months to stabilize and be ready for your fish.

    Sand and Gravel

    Both sand and gravel make great substrates depending on the aquascaping plants you’re growing. Both come in all sorts of sizes and colors and are easy enough to source.

    Just be sure that your aquatic plants match they type and size you’re looking to use. Tall plants find it hard to root in small particle sized sand whereas mosses will have problems rooting in large gravel substrates.

    And also take your fish into account. Don’t use substrates with sharp edges if you’re going to include catfish or other bottom dwellers.

    Hardscape Materials

    Hardscape materials will either make or break your entire design. Everything about them is important, their size, color, material, everything. After all, these are the focal points of your aquascape and should be added after you’ve finished adding your substrate.

    Rocks

    Although you may think rocks are pretty boring, there are actually a massive amount of different kinds of rocks. And each one you place in your tank will have an effect on the overall experience of your aquascape. So take your time finding that perfect aquascaping rock!

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    Obviously what look you’re going for will determine a lot as far as choosing your rocks. For a Nature Aquascape you’ll usually want dark colored rocks with interesting designs that can look like mountain peaks or far away mountains.

    If you’ll be adding rocks to a Dutch style tank, then you should be looking for colors that play off the types of plants you’ll be using. Or sizes that won’t overpower the rest of the scene.

    Some great rock types to start with are Dragon stone, Lava rock, Ryuoh or Seiryu, Ohko and Elephant Skin rocks are all used in aquascaping.

    Which one you choose to use is going to depend on how you want your finished aquascaping design to look.

    Driftwood

    I absolutely love the look of ragged, aged driftwood in a tank. Driftwood has so much character, and the colors are perfect for a natural tank. But you can use other types of wood like petrified woods,

    Best used in Nature, Biotope and Paludarium Styles of aquascaping, driftwood can be used as a central focal point or for layering to bring depth of field to a scene.

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    Coupled with plants like Java Moss or Anubias Barteri, your wood becomes a living organism that looks amazing with a few freshwater invertebrates grazing on them.

    Filtration

    Great filtration is a must for any aquarium, and even more so when you include soil, wood and plant life into the mix. Rotting plant material decomposes over time and add a lot of different elements to your water that must be filtrated out.

    And that’s not to mention the addition of fish to your tank. Even small fish species produce waste that needs to be filtered out in order to keep your water well balanced.

    The best and most natural way of handling all this when you can is to use the Walstad Method I described above. Then instead of waste, you have fertilizer.

    But if that isn’t possible, then you’ll need to think about the best sort of filtration system yo use for your specific aquascape. Usually, some sort of external hang-on back (HOB) filter or canister filter.

    Canister filters are the best you can get. They can be hidden underneath your tank, and you can use almost any type of filtration medium you can find. They come in all sizes and can handle even the biggest water volume. The only problem is they’re also the most expensive type of filter system.

    A less expensive type is the HOB filter. These filters simply hang on the back of your tank and are simple in terms of how they’re used. So they can be a solid starting point for a new aquarist.

    But they also have many drawbacks. The first being that they hand on your tank. For aquascaping, this is definitely not ideal. Furthermore these filters can’t hold nearly the amount of filtration media that canisters can, nor are they as quit when running.

    They are also not meant for larger tanks as they aren’t all that powerful.

    So if you have the funds, I highly suggest just going for the canister filtration system.

    Lighting

    Since aquascaping relies heavily on plants to complete their overall scene, having the correct lighting for plants to photosynthesize and fish to thrive is going to matter a lot.

    Unlike other types of aquarium lighting, we are looking for lighting options that are specifically designed for growing aquatic plants. This is one area where the needs of your fish take a back seat.

    In a traditional aquarium set up, fluorescent light bulbs would be fine for most plants and fish. But they aren’t well suited for aquascaping plants and should be your last choice.

    The very best lights for your aquascapes would be bulbs that mimic natural daylight. And they need to be strong enough to reach the depths of your tank while not creating a lot of heat and effecting the water temperature.

    LEDs are the perfect choice for aquascaping. They can do all of that and more. In fact, you can do all sorts of cool things with LED. They can be easily timed when they come on and off.

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    You can dim your lighting, or even dim or brighten certain areas of your tank all with the same light source. You can even add different colors or light spectrums to the mix.

    There really isn’t much you can’t do with LEDs today. And they are much more energy efficient than other types of grow lights. So over time they can end up saving you money.

    Plants

    Obviously, plants are going to play a major role in any aquascape. Your plant choices will ultimately depend on the overall aesthetic you’ve chosen and the type of aquascape style you want to achieve.

    You’ll also need to take into consideration the individual requirements of each plant. It’s best if you have similar species of plants that require the same lighting, temperatures and water hardness so it’s easier to maintain your tank. And slower growing plants will need less pruning.

    There are actually four groups of plants you need to consider when planning your aquascape based on their size and where they will be placed in your setup. The idea is to vary the heights of your plants to give your tank an overall feeling of depth to the scene.

    Background . Background plants will usually be the largest plants in your aquarium. The ones I’ve listed here are the easiest to source and grow to about 12 inches (30 cm) or more. They do come in a variety of leaf shapes and sizes, but the only color variations are greens and reds.

    • Vallisneria
    • Pogostemon stellatus โ€˜octopusโ€™
    • Water sprite
    • Amazon sword
    • Bacopa caroliniana
    • Pearl weed
    • Alternanthera reineckii var. โ€˜roseafoliaโ€™
    • Tiger lotus

    Midground . Your Midground plants are next. They only grow to a medium height of about six inches tall and should be used somewhere in the middle of your tank in front of your background plants.

    • Java fern
    • Anubias species
    • Cryptocoryne species
    • Alternanthera reineckii
    • Red dwarf Hygrophila
    • Blyxa short leaf. Blyxa novoguineensis
    • Chain Sword
    • Dwarf Cardinal plant. Lobelia cardinalis
    • Downoi. Pogostemon helferi
    • Basil Leaf. Limnophila rugosa
    • Water Hyssop. Bacopa caroliniana

    Foreground . The area closest to you as your viewing your tank, most aquascaped foregrounds will include some of your smallest plants so you have a clear vision of the entire scene.

    Some species are also called carpeting plants, and many types of mosses are incorporated here giving your aquascape a lawn effect, or rolling hills like in the Iwagumi style of aquascaping.

    • Staurogyne repens (S. repens)
    • anubias nana petite
    • dwarf hairgrass (Eleocharis acicularis)
    • Micro sword (Lilaeopsis brasiliensis)
    • dwarf chain sword or pygmy chain sword (Helanthium tenellum)
    • Hydrocotyle tripartite

    Carpeting Plants

    • Dwarf baby tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides โ€˜Cubaโ€™)
    • Monte carlo (Micranthemum tweediei)
    • Mini pennywort (Hydrocotyle tripartita “Mini”)
    • Creeping Staurogyne (Staurogyne repens)
    • Vietnam Ambulia (Limnophila sp. “Vietnam” )

    Floating Floating plants are helpful in low to medium light conditions as they can provide cover and can be arranged in ways to shed shade on the areas of your tank that need less light.

    And since these types of plants do not grow in the substrate, they can be added or taken away easily. Plus, the species with roots can add a lot of drama to the overall feel of an aquascape as the plant roots hand down into the scene.

    • Duckweed (Lemna minor)
    • Hornwort (Ceratophyllum demersum)
    • Amazon Frogbit (Limnobium laevigatum)
    • Dwarf Water Lettuce (Pistia stratiotes)
    • Water Spangles (Salvinia minima)
    • Mosquito Fern (Azolla filiculoides)
    • Pennywort (Centella asiatica)

    Fish Species

    Your fish should be the last thing that’s added to your aquarium. Your aquascape will need some time to take hold and after you first finish, you will probably want to make some adjustments which means arranging aquatic plants which your fish won’t take kindly to.

    And it also takes some time for the water to become more stable and establish a healthy ecosystem. This can take as long as two months, so be patient.

    Give your aquascape the chance to cycle through and the plants to take root. then when you introduce your fish, they’ll feel right at home with no disturbances.

    As far as which fish to keep, remember, the aquascape is the focus, not the fish. They are just the decoration. So you want fewer and smaller fish than you would otherwise.

    This also helps to give the aquascape more of a sense of largeness or openness. A big fish would just look really out of place!

    Just try to match your fishes requirements with that of your plants. If all of your plants need strong light or warm water, make sure the plant safe fish you include can tolerate these same conditions.

    Small schooling fish like Neon Tetras are perfect for these types of tanks since they are easy to care for, don’t pull up plants and can live in all types of freshwater aquariums.

    These fish only grow to an inch and a half and are inexpensive and easy to source. There are many different tetras and any of these colorful fish would do well in an aquascaped environment.

    Harlequin Rasboras are another great choice reaching less than an inch and a half full grown, they are easy to source and are very inexpensive. They’re easy to keep, school well in groups and don’t disturb your plants. Overall a great choice.

    Celestial Pearl Danios, or Galaxy Rasboras are beautifully colored fish and work well in Natural or Iwagumi tanks where there isn’t much color. These easy to care for fish are still a bit rare and much more expensive than the Tetras or Rasboras, but they are worth the cost.

    The best part is these fish naturally live in heavily planted ponds and grow to less than two inches, so an aquascaped tank would be the best option to keep these fish healthy and happy.

    The Spotted Blue-eye is another easy choice. Colorful and timid, this fish’s natural habitat is heavily planted shallow pools. They rarely grow to over an inch and a half and add some pizazz to any planted tank.

    The Neon Blue Tux Guppy  (Poecilia reticulata) is another peaceful fish that looks great in aquascapes. You should keep at least six as they like to school, and you can keep up to 20 or 30 if your tank is large enough. This brilliant blue tailed fish grows to be about around 1.5 inches and is easy to manage and find at most fish stores.

    Another fish you should include is a Otocinclus Catfish. These are small busy fish and should be kept in groups of three or more. These guys will help you keep your tank clean by eating most forms of algae which is always a bit of a problem when it comes to heavily planted tanks. If you have a larger aquarium, keep five to ten to help out with your tank maintenance.

    Shrimp are another great way to combat algae growth and are very interesting to watch and even breed. Neocaridina Shrimp are probably the best ones to start off with. They are stunningly colored and come in reds, blues, yellows, and greens.

    They’re also easy to find and care for and if your tank is properly maintained, they’ll breed with no problems.

    You can also try Caridina multidentata, or ‘Amano Shrimp‘ respectfully named after Takashi Amano after he made these crustaceans ‘famous’ using them as a way to keep down algae in his creations, especially in his Iwagumi Style aquascapes.

    These little translucent shrimp will eat almost any type of algae and are cheap and easy to find at most pet shops.

    Maintenance

    Since you’re primarily keeping an underwater garden, it’s smart to focus on your aquatic plants as much as possible since your plants will end up helping you maintain you aquarium once they’re established and happy. Yes, plants can be happy too!

    The perfect aquascape should rely on the miniature ecological environment in the tank to take care of most issues. Your plants should be absorbing the carbon dioxide from your fish, and the fish should be breathing the oxygen from the plants.

    Any fish waste should be fertilizer for the aquatic plants and food for your catfish and shrimp.

    Think of how nature works and that’s what you should be trying to replicate inside your aquarium. The closer you get, the less maintenance you’ll need to do.

    Daily Tasks

    Do daily inspections of your plants, fish and anything living in the tank. notice if your fish are loosing their colors, or seem lethargic.

    See that your plants are steadily growing and there are no brown spots or dying leaves.

    Check for algae growth and ensure your filters and lights are all working correctly.

    Water changes are the most important thing you can do to keep your aquascapes pristine. And it’s far better to do a 10% or 20% daily water change that a 50% change once a week.

    If you’re unable to stick to a regime like this, do the best you can. Even every other day or every two days is better than weekly changes. Just be sure the water you’re adding is close to the same temperature of your tank’s water so as not to shock your pets inside.

    Weekly Tasks

    Clean the aquarium glass inside and outside the aquarium. Even if it looks clean, small algae spores may begin to collect and it’s best to never give them a foot hold on your tank.

    Check your plants and trim any ones that are not growing the way you want. Really look at them and be sure their leaves are clean and smooth and nothing is eating them.

    You may need to vacuum your substrate if possible from time to time. But you need to be very careful as not to bring up any soil under the substrate if you’re using the Walstad method for your aquatic plants.

    Test you water’s pH range and carbon dioxide levels to make sure your plants and fish are happy and safe.

    And if you haven’t done daily water changes, you must do at least weekly changes or you’ll run into problems! If done weekly, you need to do at least a 50% change. Just make sure the water temperature stays stable when making such a large change.

    Wrapping Up!

    Getting started aquascaping is as easy or complex as you want it to be. And the diversity of the hobby is enough for anyone to keep busy for a life time. All you need is a bit of imagination, a few bucks and an aquarium. After that, the rest is up to you.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • How to Lower Nitrates in a Fish Tank: 9 Methods That Actually Work

    How to Lower Nitrates in a Fish Tank: 9 Methods That Actually Work

    Nitrate management is something I think about constantly across my tanks. especially my 125-gallon reef where elevated nitrates directly impact coral health. Over 25 years I’ve tried every method out there, from water changes to refugiums to carbon dosing. Here’s what actually works and what’s most practical for most setups.

    Nitrates don’t kill fish overnight the way nitrites do. and that’s exactly what makes them dangerous. In my 125-gallon reef tank, I learned to respect nitrates the hard way. Coral bleaching, nuisance algae outbreaks, and sluggish fish behavior were all signs I initially attributed to other causes. Once I dialed in my nitrate management through a combination of water changes, refugium macroalgae, and a biopellet reactor, everything improved. In freshwater tanks, the fix is often simpler, but the principle is the same: elevated nitrates stress fish chronically, suppress immune systems, and fuel algae blooms. Here’s what actually works, based on my experience across dozens of setups over 25 years.

    Key Takeaways

    • Nitrates are the least toxic compared to Ammonia and Nitrite
    • At high levels, nitrate is harmful to your fish
    • Water changes, live plants, and specific media can help lower nitrates

    What Is It?

    Nitrate is a component of the nitrogen cycle and it is formed when bacteria do the conversion of ammonia. The bacteria named, Nitrosomonas1 first convert ammonia into nitrite and then it converts nitrite into nitrate.

    The names, nitrate, and nitrite are similar and beginner aquarists usually confuse them. However, nitrite is very toxic to the fish, while nitrates are less toxic. That’s because most aquarium fish may be poisoned and killed by nitrite concentrations of just 1 part per million, whereas nitrate concentrations can occasionally be 100 times higher. Some people associate high nitrate levels with bothersome algae and Old Tank Syndrome, which causes nitrate levels to rise, pH levels to fall, and any newly introduced fish to be stunned and die despite ammonia and nitrite tests coming back negative.

    The fun part about nitrate is it’s present almost everywhere. You might just be replacing your old tank water with new tap water and there are high chances of nitrate being present. Fortunately, it’s not as deadly as nitrite.

    How To Lower Nitrates In Fish Tank

    One of the easiest ways to lower nitrates in a fish tank is by changing your tank water frequently. The other quick ways include adding live plants, removing filter media, and avoiding overfeeding and overcrowding.

    We have a video from our YouTube Channel for those who want a visual explanation. As always, our blog post goes into more detail. Feel free to look at both. If you like our channel, be such to subscribe as we post new videos every week!

    1. Frequent Water Changes

    Your nitrate level will decrease if you switch to tap water as long as it contains less nitrate than your tank water. Test the nitrate level in both your freshwater tank and your tap to check that this is the case.

    Also, remember to maintain the right temperature of the water you’re replacing and make sure it’s treated for chlorine or chloramine.

    Avoid using tap water if the nitrate levels are around 40 ppm or higher. It’s best to use RO water if the nitrate levels are too high in your tap water. The benefit of RO water to your aquarium fish is many as it removes nitrates, phosphates, chlorine, and minerals from tap water. Also, RO water is soft water with low pH, so suits the fish that prefer such water conditions.

    Summary:

    1. Perform water changes frequently.
    2. Vacuum the gravel to remove debris and fish waste
    3. Change your filter pads every once or twice a week to remove uneaten food rots or fish wastes that add to nitrate levels
    4. Make sure to test your tap water for nitrates before introducing it into the tank.

    2. Live Plants

    The old tank syndrome or high nitrate accumulation in your tank is very common. If you have freshwater aquariums, the problem seems quite under control. However, in saltwater tanks, extreme nitrate levels can cause a nuisance. It is said to lower nitrates and keep them below 20 mg/L for a healthy ecosystem.

    To cater to this, a planted aquarium works best to pull nitrates from the water for nutrition. However, there are some plants better than others.

    As plants might really run low on this important nutrient after using it all up, aquascapes actually inject nitrate in the form of nitrogen, or N. Other advantages of live aquatic plants for freshwater aquariums include helping to control algae growth, sheltering young fish and fry, and providing areas for fish to lay their eggs. Just make sure any aquarium with plants has the appropriate lighting and additional fertilizers to keep the plants thriving and healthy.

    Aquarium Plants That Work Best

    Water Sprite

    Water sprite or Indian Water Fern is a good live plant for most community tanks. They are also very useful, low-maintenance, and beautiful plants that keep your aquarium nitrate, ammonia, and nitrite free.

    Water Sprite

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    The leaves of water sprite are fast growing, so they quickly absorb all harmful toxins and chemicals from the tank water. Hence, they are powerful natural filters for your aquarium. However, they are very fast-growing plants that grow like a weed and may tangle into other plants. So, it’s important to prune them occasionally without harming the leaves.

    Duckweed

    Duckweeds are excellent floating plants that lower nitrates in your tank naturally. In the wild, you will usually find them sitting on top of the surface of many lakes and ponds.

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    In the aquarium hobby, duckweed is known to control nutrients and add aesthetics to the fish tank. However, like water sprite the growth rate of duckweed is very high, leading to uptake nutrients, equipment clogs, and many other problems. Therefore, it’s important to trim the branches occasionally.

    Water Wisteria
    Water Wisteria

    An easy to grow and great beginner floating plant to try!

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    Water wisteria is one of my top picks for nitrate-reducing plants because it is, aesthetically pleasing with its gorgeous palmate leaves. Plus, it’s so easy to grow and low-maintenance. However, always grow this plant in the background as it turns very tall and bushy within no time.

    Frogbit

    If you have a larger aquarium tank, the frogbit plant should be your go-to. Appearance-wise, frogbit is very similar to duckweed and nitrate uptake.

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    However, the leaves are thick and circular in shape.

    Frogbit is very similar to duckweed in appearance and nitrate uptake. Your community fish can thrive and seek shelter in their long roots. But extra maintenance should be done to keep the roots and growth at bay.

    Hornwort

    A common choice for nitrate reduction in aquariums is hornwort. Aquarists wishing to lower nitrate levels in their tanks can use this rapidly growing aquatic plant because of its special capacity to absorb nitrates from the water column.

    As hornwort can absorb a lot of nitrates from the water column, it is a fantastic choice for aquariums with high nitrate levels. The plant is a helpful addition to any aquarium since it also lowers ammonia and phosphate levels.

    Hornwort may drastically reduce nitrates in as little as two weeks, but it’s crucial to keep in mind that it should be used in conjunction with nitrate-reducing systems. The aquarium must be regularly checked for nitrate levels in order to remain healthy and free of them.

    Anacharis

    Anacharis not only create nitrate remover but they also recognize to be a fantastic food source for many varieties of freshwater fish, including goldfish, tetras, and guppies. It also makes a terrific plant for breeding tanks because of its long, thin leaves, which offer excellent hiding places for fry.

    Water Lettuce

    One other live plant species that may remove nitrates from the tank water is water lettuce. A shallow-water pond’s nitrogen content may be effectively extracted by species like pistia stratiotes to the extent of 83%. You should plant this floating plant if you want both aesthetics and functionality.

    Water Lettuce

    A popular floating plant that is used in ponds and aquariums!

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    3. Nitrate Reducing Media 

    To remove nitrates, nitrate removal filter media is used to lower nitrates in fish tanks. As mentioned earlier, nitrates are the natural by-product of the nitrogen cycle. The process allows beneficial bacteria to convert fish waste and uneaten food into less harmful substances.

    In order to remove nitrates, many aquarists equip the filer with high-performance filter media, such as the Biome Ultimate Filter Media, which is highly porous with a unique structure that absorbs water seamlessly. Filter media works in an exclusive way and supports beneficial bacterial bloom that is good at removing nitrate levels. 

    However, there are a few pointers you have before using nitrate-removing filter media in your tank.

    Filter media type

    It is important to choose the right type of filter media that suits your aquarium size and filtration system. There is a variety of nitrate-removing filter media in the market, including resins, pellets, sponges, sintered glass, etc. Biome Ultimate Filter Media is made of premium quality sintered glass and is ideal for Canister, HOB, and sump filters.

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    Preparation of filter media

    It is crucial to rinse the media to remove any dust particles and debris. While rinsing the media, always use fresh water and avoid the use of soap or detergents, as they can potentially harm the beneficial bacteria in the media. 

    Placement 

    Whether the media should be placed in the filter compartment or inside the filter bag, place it in the filter and make sure to follow the instructions on the label correctly.

    Keep An Eye On Your Levels

    I recommend using a water testing kit to monitor the nitrate levels in your aquarium. After adding filter media, it should take around 2 weeks to notice a significant decrease in nitrate levels.

    Replace The media

    Over time, media might become dirty and saturated and will need to be routinely changed. For information on when to change the media, consult the manufacturer.

    4. Equipment Methods

    Reverse osmosis, water distillation, and ion exchange methods can remove nitrate levels from water. However, remember that it’s not easy to get rid of nitrate levels through sediment filters, carbon filters, or even traditional ion exchange water softeners. To get rid of nitrates effectively, it’s important to install an anion resin tank. Also, if you want to reduce nitrate levels in your tap water, it’s crucial to install an under-sink RO system. If you have a small fish tank, it’s recommended to use a water distiller to reduce nitrate from the water. 

    Reverse Osmosis Method

    To use the reverse osmosis method, you have to install an RO unit that is specifically designed for aquariums. The RO unit is usually connected to the source of tap water. The water is then transferred through the system which removes toxic nitrate, and other contaminants.

    After the removal of all the nitrate, the pure water is collected in a tank that could later be used for aquarium water changes and regular maintenance by topping off the tank.

    Important

    The reverse osmosis process does not guarantee proper water quality. It is even proven to remove essential nutrients and other beneficial minerals from the water along with nitrate removal. Therefore, it is important to re-mineralize the water to maintain a healthy environment for your fish.

    Also, the RO water system demands regular maintenance to prevent the growth of bacteria and other microorganisms in the fish tank.

    Ion Exchange Method

    Though not commonly used, the ion exchange method effectively removes nitrate from the fish tank. 

    In this method, you pass the water through a resin bed with charged particles; ions. These ions in the resin bed attract the oppositely charged particles in water, including nitrates. Hence, the resin becomes saturated with nitrates and other contaminants. It’s best to regenerate or replace the resin bed to effectively remove nitrates from the water in the future. 

    Water Distillation Method

    If you want to remove nitrate, dissolved solids, minerals, and other toxic substances from water, you should go for the water distillation method.

    In this method, the water is boiled until steam is produced. The steam is later cooled and condensed into liquid form. While the water is boiling, it removes nitrates and other toxic substances. As a result, you get pure distilled water free of nitrates and other dissolved solids.

    5. Algae Turf Scrubber (ATS)

    Caution: If you have a planted aquarium, DON’T try this method!

    The Algae turf scrubber method is ideal for freshwater aquariums or saltwater tanks through a process called biological filtration. 

    In this method, the ATS device used light and nutrient-rich water flow to encourage bacterial growth, which absorbs nutrients, such as nitrates from the fish tank. ultimately removing them from the core.

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    To speed up the process and effectiveness of ATS, it’s crucial to provide adequate lighting and nutrient-rich water flow for smooth algae bloom. It’s also advisable to clean your algae mats and screens to prevent clogging. 

    6. Refugium Sumps (Saltwater)

    Refugium sumps are a natural form of biological filtration that effectively reduces nitrates in the tank. They are ideal for a saltwater tank.

    In an aquarium system, a refugium sump is a separate compartment that is often stocked with living plants, algae, and other microorganisms. Nitrates and other dissolved nutrients are absorbed by living plants and microbes when water passes through the refugium, changing them into less hazardous forms. The primary aquarium is then filled with purified water.

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    You would normally require a sump tank, a water pump, and suitable lighting for the living plants and algae to set up a refugium sump for nitrate removal. To avoid overgrowth and to guarantee adequate nitrogen intake, the living plants and algae in the refugium would need to be routinely clipped and removed.

    7. Live Rock and Porous Rock (Saltwater)

    Live rock and porous rocks are the types of rocks, which are directly harvested from the ocean. These types of rocks have living organic matter such as bacteria, algae, and invertebrates to break down organic waste, such as nitrates. When the water in your aquarium flows through these rocks, the bacteria in them convert nitrates into nitrogen gas, which is less harmful. 

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    However, the process of biological filtration through these rocks is slow and may be insufficient, depending on the tank size. To use live rock and porous rock as natural filters, just add the rock to your fish tank and let it establish a biological system. 

    Pros

    1. Source of natural biological filtration
    2. Provide a natural aesthetic to the aquarium
    3. Require little to no maintenance

    Cons

    1. They can be costly
    2. Can be contaminated
    3. Takes time to establish a biological filtration system
    4. May not be effective for heavily planted aquariums or stocked aquarium

    8. Feed Less

    Feeding less is one of the most significant ways to lower nitrates in your tank. Also, it’s important to set a feeding routine for your fish. During the feeding time, make sure to shut off all the filters and pumps. Add a smaller amount of food and let the fish consume it all. Feed your fish for no more than 5 minutes. Otherwise, there will be leftover food trapped in filters, leading to higher nitrate levels.

    Key Takeaways:

    1. Always feed smaller amounts of food because overfeeding can lead to increased nitrate levels
    2. Feed only twice or thrice daily to prevent excess waste 
    3. Use high-quality food with fewer fillers and more nutrients for better digestion

    9. Avoid Overcrowding 

    Any aquarium’s nitrate level should directly correspond to how much ammonia the fish produce. Nitrate production increases with the number of fish present. The more fish you have, the more nitrate they will produce. As a result, tanks are frequently overstocked with too many fish and overfed in tanks with persistent nitrate issues. You may reduce the amount of ammonia, fish waste, and subsequent nitrate created by keeping fewer, smaller fish without overfeeding them.

    To avoid overcrowding your tank, start out with one small fish per 10 gallons of water. Later, add two or three fish weeks apart and test the nitrate levels in your tank. As soon as the nitrate levels start to rise, stop adding fish to your tank.

    FAQs

    What is the fastest way to lower them?

    The fastest and easiest way to lower nitrates in your aquarium is by performing partial water changes by removing a portion of tank water and replacing it with fresh, clean water.ย 

    How do I lower them in my fish tank naturally?

    Fortunately, we have some excellent natural filters in the form of live plants. Live plants absorb nitrates and other nutrients from the tank and promote a healthy natural ecosystem

    What can I put in my tank to lower them?

    You can put nitrate-removing filter media in your filter to lower nitrates in your tank. Additionally, you can also use live and porous rocks if you have saltwater tanks.

    Why are my levels so high?

    There can be several factors associated with high nitrate levels in your fish tank. They can be:

    Too many fish
    Overfeeding
    Improper filtration
    Dead fish or dead plants (decomposing plant matter)
    Tap water high in nitrates

    How do you fix high levels in a fish tank?

    You can fix and avoid the high nitrate levels in your fish tank by testing the water regularly. Also, regular water changes and maintenance is the key to keeping your tank ammonia and nitrite free.

    Can fish survive high levels?

    Yes, but only for a short period of time. Overexposure to high nitrate levels can result in reduced oxygen levels, increased stress, and health-related problems.

    How long does it take for levels to go down in the aquarium?

    It depends on the nitrate levels, the efficiency of the filter system used, the tank size, the water changes schedule, etc. Generally, you will notice a considerable difference in nitrate levels just after a water change. However, if the levels are too high, it may take multiple water changes to reach a safe level.ย 

    Final Thoughts

    High levels of nitrates can affect the health of your fish and the overall aquarium ecosystem adversely. Therefore, it is important to monitor the nitrate levels through regular maintenance and water testing. It’s also crucial to add live plants in your aquarium to keep the fish healthy, happy, and thriving. Lastly, make sure to never overfeed your fish and overcrowd your tank as it may cause a nitrate spike, leading to severe stress and other health problems. 

    References

  • 8 Signs a Fish Is Dying (And What to Do Before It’s Too Late)

    8 Signs a Fish Is Dying (And What to Do Before It’s Too Late)

    After 25+ years in this hobby, I’ve lost more fish than I care to admit. and the honest truth is that most of those early losses happened because I didn’t know what to look for. Fish that died slowly almost always showed warning signs first. I just wasn’t trained to recognize them yet.

    Catching these symptoms early is the difference between saving a fish and losing it. Some of the signs below are obvious, but a few are subtle enough that experienced keepers still miss them. Here’s what to watch for. and what to do when you spot it.

    Key Takeaways

    • Losing a fish is hard, but it’s important to know what to do when that time comes.
    • There are many symptoms of a dying fish, including abnormal swimming patterns, differences in physical appearance, and trouble breathing.
    • Sick and dying fish are often the result of incorrect water parameters, extreme water temperature, stress, or injury. However, they may also die from old age.

    Is Your Fish Dying?

    If you ask this question, it’s likely too late to save your fish. A healthy fish is colorful, active, and eager to eat. A dying fish might have some obvious external symptoms like cut-up fins, abrasions, inflamed gills, or other signs of parasites. You can check out our video below on our YouTube channel. Subscribe if you like our content and follow along with our blog below. Our blog is more detailed than our video.

    Some behavioral changes might include erratic swimming around the tank, laying sideways on the substrate, gasping for air at the water’s surface, or scratching against hard surfaces. Sick fish may also lose weight from a poor appetite and turn pale in body color.

    Neolamprologus similis fish

    Many of these symptoms overlap with symptoms regularly displayed due to disease and illness. For example, common parasitic infections, like ich, cause the fish to scratch themselves against surfaces in the aquarium and gasp for air. Even though the fish may show these symptoms and look physically damaged, they can still be saved through relatively straightforward treatment methods.

    How do you know that your fish is past the point of being saved, though?

    This is a hard call to make, but it’s easy to know when your fish is on its final days either due to disease or age. That isn’t to say that you shouldn’t keep trying to save your fish until that day comes, though. But at some point, there is nothing you can do.

    Usually, there will be major changes in behavior and appearance. Some of the more foretelling symptoms of imminent death include:

    • staying out in the open once the fish tank lights have gone out
    • staying hidden in rockwork and decorations during the day
    • pale and tattered appearance
    • getting stuck in intake flows
    • getting picked on by other fish and invertebrates

    How To Tell Your Fish Is Dead

    It can be hard to tell when your fish is dead for certain. When they’re dying, it is common for fish to lay on the substrate motionless. Their breathing can be fast and shallow or slow and deep.

    A dead fish will be completely motionless. They may have stiff fins. They may have sunken-in and cloudy eyes. Their body may have started to deteriorate. If you have invertebrates in the tank, they may have even started to break down the body.

    If you’re unsure about whether or not your fish is dead, try to remove it with a fish net. If your fish is dead, then it will most likely be stiff and won’t put up a fight. If your fish is dying, it may be flexible and try to evade being caught.

    Do Fish Float or Sink When They Die?

    You’ve probably seen the cartoon of the dead fish floating upside with crosses over its eyes. Its tongue might have even been sticking out.

    No, this is not what happens!

    When your fish die, generally, they sink. Oftentimes you’ll turn on your aquarium light to find your sick fish nowhere in sight. Once you start checking between rocks and decorations, you’ll often find the dead fish laying on its side on the substrate. If you have invertebrates in the tank, it’s possible that they will have started to eat the fish.

    It is strongly recommended to remove the dead fish as soon as possible to prevent problems with water quality.

    Signs That A Fish Is Dying, Dead, Or Sick

    So what signs should you look out for in your fish? We’ve listed some of the less common symptoms of a dying, dead, or sick fish, but we haven’t listed the ones you’re most likely to see.

    Remember, these can result from a disease or illness and do not always indicate imminent death.

    Swimming Sideways Or Upside Down

    Swimming sideways or upside down is a very worrying symptom. This behavior can display itself in several ways.

    One, your fish may literally be swimming upside down or sideways. This is usually indicative of poor water quality but is also one of the leading symptoms of both swim bladder disease and fin rot (video source).

    Another way this symptom presents itself is your fish rapidly swimming up and down or side to side across the aquarium. This motion can be so fast that they look like they’re swimming upside down or sideways and can even lead to the fish jumping out of the aquarium.

    White Spots On Body

    A healthy fish has bright colors without any discoloration. A fish with white spots on its body is most likely suffering from parasitic, bacterial, or fungal infections. The leading cause for white spots to appear on a sick fish is ich, also known as white spot disease. However, velvet and various flukes can also present as this symptom.

    Loss Of Appetite

    Loss of appetite is seen in nearly all sick fish. However, as long as your fish eats, there is a good chance of recovery. It’s once your fish stops eating that it becomes difficult to keep them strong and bolster their immune system.

    Siamese Algae Eater

    This symptom can be difficult to treat. Hobbyists recommend soaking food in garlic to entice appetite as well as for garlic’s natural healing properties.

    Gasping For Air On The Water Surface

    Gasping for air is a sure sign your fish tank water is poor quality. This is your fish’s attempt to breathe fresh air and get away from harmful toxins. This could also mean that your fish’s gills are being affected either by parasites or bacterial infections.

    Unless your fish has a labyrinth organ, like betta fish or gourami, then it will not be able to breathe at the surface of the water.

    Betta in Fish Tank

    Swollen Or Distended Belly

    Out of all of these symptoms, a distended belly is probably the easiest to diagnose. A swollen belly can be a sign of constipation, which is easy to fix. It can also be a sign of swim bladder disease or dropsy, which are more challenging to fix but easy to diagnose.

    Gills Stop Moving

    This symptom is often paired with sick fish gasping for air at the water’s surface. The most common reasons your fish’s breathing is affected can be due to parasites and other infections.

    Breathing can also become difficult when exposed to poor water quality or other chemicals and toxins in the water.

    Redness On Body

    Redness, swelling, and inflammation of the body can be primary or secondary symptoms. Primary symptoms can be due to cuts and scrapes that your fish has received. Be mindful that redness can also indicate an infection in these areas.

    Secondary redness could be caused by parasites and related infections as well. Swelling and inflammation could even be a mix of a parasitic infection, your fish trying to scrape the parasites off its body, and infection.

    Why Is Your Fish Dying?

    Now that you can tell that your fish is dying, you need to find out why. Most fish species in the aquarium trade are hardy and can adapt to unfavorable conditions and even survive some diseases without treatment.

    Still, the most common reasons you might be dealing with a dying fish are:

    Also, consider how long you’ve had your fish. Most aquarium fish available at the pet store are at least 6 months to a year old. Tropical fish can live for surprisingly long times, with most species having the potential to live up to a decade. However, if you’ve had your fish a long time and nothing seems to be wrong with it, then your fish might be dying of old age.

    At this point, there’s nothing you can do for your fish but give it the best remaining days of its life.

    Common Causes

    Here are some of the most common reasons why your fish might be sick or dying. Keep in mind that many of these issues overlap with one another, along with the symptoms caused.

    Water Quality Issues

    There are many reasons why an otherwise healthy fish may die from water quality issues. One of the most obvious reasons for sudden fish death is adding a ton of fish to a brand-new, uncycled aquarium. This means that fish create ammonia through waste and respiration, which cannot be processed due to the absence of beneficial bacteria that make water conditions safe. As a result, the fish often succumb to ammonia or nitrite poisoning.

    Nitrogen Cycle

    Unfortunately, many new fish keeper enthusiasts make this mistake as they don’t understand the aquarium needs to go through the nitrogen cycle before adding fish. In some cases, the fish tank is cycled, but too many fish have been added at once, leading to overloading the current population of beneficial bacteria. Other times, a water conditioner isn’t used, leading to death from chlorine and chloramine.

    Even in a mature tank, water quality issues cause dead fish. Ammonia and nitrite poisoning are still very real threats for cycled aquariums if tank maintenance isn’t regular. This is especially true if leftover food and waste are left to rot at the bottom of the aquarium and if the filtration system is insufficient.

    An easy fix to water quality issues is performing a weekly or biweekly 10-25% water change. At the same time, siphon the substrate with an aquarium vacuum to remove any unprocessed waste. Regularly use an aquarium test kit to check water chemistry.

    However, one of the more challenging water parameters to keep in check is pH. This is because pH is a very sensitive parameter due to it being calculated on a logarithmic scale. Sudden changes exceeding more than a daily increase or decrease of .50 can cause a fish’s body to stop functioning correctly. This can lead to a very fast and painful death.

    Another parameter difficult to gauge is dissolved oxygen. Fish need oxygen to breathe. As they breathe, they also release carbon dioxide into the water. This is why aquarium water surface agitation and overall water circulation are so important.

    Water surface agitation helps facilitate gas exchange, meaning bringing in new oxygen and releasing used carbon dioxide. Water circulation helps carry both oxygen and carbon dioxide throughout the water column to prevent dead zones. If fish cannot breathe, then they can suffocate.

    Water surface agitation and circulation can be increased through the use of an air stone, pumps, increased filtration, or more regular tank maintenance.

    Water Temperature

    If water quality is correct, then you still need to worry about water temperature. Aquarium fish are very adaptable to both higher and lower temperatures, but sudden fluctuations and extreme temperatures can cause your fish to go into shock.

    The reality is that too high of a water temperature can cause your fish to cook, while a low temperature can cause your fish to slip into unconsciousness and eventual death. To prevent this from happening, an aquarium heater should always be used for stability for tropical fish and cold weather environments. As aquarium heaters are very prone to malfunctioning, some fishkeeper hobbyists replace their equipment yearly.

    At the very least, the temperature should be checked once a day.

    Stress

    Even if nothing is outwardly wrong with your fish’s body, it may still succumb to stress. There are many reasons why a fish could become stressed. This could be due to incorrect water parameters, incompatible tank mates, lack of space or hiding spots, or disease and illness.

    Even though fish might not die due to water parameters, they’ll still become stressed when conditions aren’t right or when they’re fluctuating. The effects of consistently low amounts of ammonia or nitrite can start to affect fish long-term, leading to early death.

    Fish compatibility is often an overlooked reason for a stressed fish. However, if your fish feels like it needs to fight for its life every day, then it can become injured or malnourished due to competition. The same is true if keeping a schooling fish that isn’t kept with enough related species.

    Keeping a big fish in a small tank can cause the fish to become stunted. This is a physical stress that can start to affect bodily functions over time. A lack of hiding spots can also make your fish feel like it needs to be in constant flight mode, which can cause stress on the body.

    Lastly, stress from having a disease can exacerbate the symptoms of the illness. This is why it’s strongly recommended to move fish to a quarantine tank that can be fully controlled with minimal lighting and other stressors.

    Injuries

    Just like you, getting injured causes extreme stress on a fish’s body. On top of that, many of the medications used to treat injuries can cause even greater stress. Oftentimes, this stress is less than what would be caused by staying untreated.

    Still, aquarium fish are very resilient and will quickly bounce back from an injury if given proper care. Fish can happily live with one eye if need be!

    Action Steps

    Now that you know why your fish is dying, how can you save them? Like any other aquarium problem, you need to treat the cause at the source. The best ways to give proper treatment to a sick fish are through water changes, medications, and lastly, euthanization.

    Water Changes

    Water changes are one of the best ways to treat water and sick fish. Even if your fish isn’t suffering from poor water quality, introducing new water through water changes can help bolster your fish’s immune system and get them on the right track to recovery.

    As mentioned before, regular tank maintenance should include weekly or biweekly 10-25% water changes. Some medications and disease treatments may require more frequent water changes, like one ich treatment method that requires daily water changes.

    Make sure that the source water being used is high-quality, meaning that there is no ammonia or nitrite with minimal nitrates.

    Medications

    Medications are readily available for almost any parasitic, bacterial, or fungal infection found in the aquarium. Medications are not always necessary for the recovery of the fish but can help aid in extreme cases. A gentle and indirect medication, like aquarium salt, can help make the recovery process smoother.

    Keep in mind that many medications are harsh on your fish’s immune system. If your fish is dying, heavy medications may ultimately cause the death of your fish. That being said, the appropriate treatment for some diseases is only through medication.

    Conclusion

    Sadly, losing fish is part of the hobby. It is pretty easy to tell when a fish is dying or not, but it can be harder to tell if they’re past the point of recovery. A few signs of a sick and dying fish are if they have trouble breathing, erratic movements, pale body color, or loss of appetite. These symptoms can be a result of incorrect water parameters, water temperature, stress, or injuries. Also, keep in mind that fish die of old age, too.

    Luckily, there are many medications available that can treat sick fish. But if you find that your fish is suffering, it may be time to humanely euthanize them.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • Brown Algae in Your Fish Tank: 4 Causes and 9 Ways to Get Rid of It

    Brown Algae in Your Fish Tank: 4 Causes and 9 Ways to Get Rid of It

    Brown algae is one of the first things new tank keepers panic about. and honestly, one of the least serious issues you’ll face. It looks alarming when it starts coating your substrate, glass, and decorations, but what you’re seeing is actually diatoms, not true algae. It’s extremely common in newly set up tanks as they cycle and silicate levels stabilize.

    The good news: in most cases, it resolves on its own as the tank matures. When it doesn’t, there are reliable fixes. Here are the 4 main reasons it shows up and 9 ways to clear it out for good.

    Key Takeaways

    • Brown algae (diatoms) are common in new aquariums and usually disappear on their own
    • If brown algae is a long-term problem, its cause can be managed
    • Brown algae is a common aquarium pest that thrives on high silicates, phosphates, and nitrates
    • Increasing regular tank maintenance is a good way to combat brown algae in many cases

    What Is It?

    Brown algae- also known as silicate algae or diatoms1, are single-celled algae found in fresh and saltwater all over the planet. These tiny algae use light to grow (photosynthesize) and silicate to form a protective ‘glass’ shell. Diatoms are not true brown algae, although they evolved from the same ancestor.

    Aquarists think of diatoms as a pest, but these algae are actually vital for life on earth. Like plants, they are the foundation of the food chain, which supports all living animals. These incredible life forms also provide the oxygen we breathe. In fact, diatoms in the ocean are said to produce more oxygen than all the world’s rainforests!

    So how do you identify brown algae? These algae settle on pretty much all tank surfaces, including rocks, glass, and substrate. They form a thin, rusty brown layer that is soft and easy to remove.

    Is It Bad?

    Diatoms are generally not bad for your aquarium. They often show up in new tanks after a few weeks or months and then disappear on their own. However, a slimy brown layer is not very attractive, so in that sense, they are bad.

    Despite the ‘dirty’ look, diatoms are a great food source for many aquatic animals, including algae-eating fish. Unfortunately, there are some situations where serious brown algae growth can have real negative effects on your aquarium.

    When Are Diatoms Bad?

    Sometimes diatoms do not disappear on their own, and they can be a concern in planted aquariums. Brown algae harm plants by covering their leaves and blocking their access to light.

    When plants are unhealthy, their leaves begin to decay. Decaying leaves break down and release even more phosphates and nitrates into the water, potentially making the problem even worse.

    Let’s take a look at some of the main causes of brown algae in aquariums

    Causes Of Diatoms

    Understanding the cause of any problem in your aquarium is the first step toward finding a solution. So, it’s time for a little detective work! This information is also useful to prevent brown algae in any other aquariums you put together.

    Freshwater Diatoms

    1. New Aquariums

    The most common cause of diatom growth is a water chemistry imbalance in a newly set-up aquarium. This problem usually happens in immature tanks without healthy populations of beneficial bacteria and other microorganisms.

    A covering of brown slime is a big surprise to many new fish keepers, and it’s easy to panic and start looking for complicated and expensive solutions. Rest assured, after a few weeks, other forms of algae will probably outcompete these diatoms, and you may never see them again.

    However, if the brown algae in fish tank water do not disappear on their own, or if you develop this problem in a mature aquarium, you may need to look for other causes.

    2. High Nitrates, Phosphates, and Silicates

    These three compounds are the usual cause of persistent brown algae problems in established aquariums. Let’s take a closer look at each one and how they encourage brown algae growth.

    • Nitrates

    Nitrates are the final product of the nitrogen cycle in an established aquarium. They can also be found in low concentrations in tap water and other water sources. Diatoms thrive in high nitrate environments because they use this compound as an energy source for growth.

    The best way to limit nitrate is to physically remove it from your aquarium by changing the water. However, you can also manage this nitrogen compound by limiting the amount of fish you keep or by growing aquatic plants.

    • Phosphates

    Diatoms and other algae thrive in water with high phosphate. These phosphorous compounds are another product of aquarium waste, like uneaten food and dead plant material.

    A lack of maintenance and overfeeding flake foods are major causes of high phosphate levels in aquarium water.

    • Silicates

    Brown algae (AKA silica algae) thrive in the aquarium water with high silicate levels because they use silicates to grow a protective shell.

    Silicates are salts formed by combining silicon and oxygen. They can come from water sources like tap water and hardscape materials like sand, gravel, and rocks. Silicate concentrations in tap water may vary depending on where you live.

    3. Stagnant Water

    Brown algae attach themselves very weakly or simply settle on surfaces in your aquarium. Stagnant water with no movement allows them to multiply, while flowing water keeps them suspended in the water column where they can be filtered.

    Aquariums should have healthy water flow to keep small waste particles suspended in the water column where your filter can collect them.

    4. Poor Water Quality

    Diatoms and aquarium algae tend to thrive in low water quality with high nutrient levels. Most nutrients come into your aquarium as fish food and never really leave the system.

    Sure, the fish eat the food, but they cannot absorb all of the nutrients, and whatever remains stays behind in the form of fish poop.

    Good quality filtration and beneficial bacteria turn these excess nutrients from highly toxic substances into mildly toxic substances known as nitrate. The most efficient way of removing nitrates is through regular partial water changes and growing live aquarium plants.

    Testing

    So now you know a little more about what diatoms are and what causes them, but how do you know which cause applies to your situation? The simple answer is by testing.

    A standard aquarium test kit measuring ammonia, nitrite, and nitrates is a ‘must-have’ for any fish tank. A silicate test kit is recommended for an older tank with a persistent brown algae problem.

    When To Test

    An important thing to remember about testing is that water parameters change over time. Testing once a year or once a month will not give you an accurate idea of what’s really going on with your water chemistry.

    Test your water every three days or so in a new aquarium to monitor changes in your water chemistry. You can reduce the frequency to once a week as things stabilize, but I recommend testing before and after water changes to work out a schedule with the right results.

    Once your aquarium is established and stable, you can slow down and test once a month or whenever you notice any potential problems like sick fish, algae growth, or unhealthy plants.

    How to Get Rid of Brown Algae in Fish Tank – 9 Best Ways

    Now that you know a little more about the causes of brown algae problems, let’s go ahead and learn how to get rid of brown algae in your aquarium. We have a video from our YouTube channel that you can also follow along.

    1. Give It Time

    Brown algae are usually a temporary problem, and the best course of action in many cases is to just watch and wait. The diatoms will clear up on their own in time as other algae establish themselves and the nitrogen cycle develops and matures in your tank.

    2. Clean It Up

    If your brown algae problem is not solving itself, or you really can’t stand the sight of it, you can always clean it off manually.

    Diatoms do not attach themselves firmly like some other algae species, so they are pretty easy to remove. Here’s how:

    Cleaning Aquarium Glass

    Let’s face it; no one likes dirty aquarium glass. Removing brown algae from tank walls is easy with an algae scraper or a non-scratch algae pad. Use a plastic scraper or a purpose-made algae pad to avoid scratches if you have an acrylic aquarium.

    Whatever you use to clean your aquarium glass, take care to never get sand or gravel between the glass and the cleaner because that’s how scratches happen.

    Cleaning Aquarium Ornaments

    You can carefully remove aquarium ornaments and clean them in old tank water, ideally when doing a water change. This is not necessary if your brown algae problem has just started in a new tank.

    Cleaning Aquarium Substrate

    Brown algae often settles on the bottom of fish tanks, and this can be pretty unsightly, especially if you have a light-colored substrate. These diatoms can be removed by suction with your gravel vacuum.

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    Cleaning Aquarium Plants

    Cleaning brown algae on aquatic plants is difficult without damaging their leaves. This job is best left to the experts- the algae eaters!

    Keep reading to learn more about aquarium algae eaters later in this article or check out my in-depth guide to the best algae eaters for freshwater tanks.

    Cleaning Fake Plants

    Many aquarium owners prefer to use fake plants to create a more natural appearance, although cleaning them can be a challenge. You can scrub your plastic plants with a soft brush or cloth or dip them in a mild bleach solution (1/10 parts) or hydrogen peroxide.

    3. Change Your Substrate

    Brown algae require silicates to grow, but where do they get this material? While it is possible to reduce your silicate levels through filtration, sometimes you need to go straight to the source. Silicates can come in through your water, but they are also found in most substrates. Play sand, for example, is high in silicates.

    4. Increase Water Flow

    Increasing the water flow in your aquarium can prevent diatoms from settling. You can do this by installing a larger filter or a powerhead. In some cases, just rearranging your hardscape or moving your filter will have a big effect on water circulation.

    Of course, some fish don’t do well in strong water flow so this might not be an option with slow-swimming fish like bettas and fancy goldfish.

    5. Improve Water Quality

    Poor water quality is the cause of so many problems in the aquarium hobby that it’s usually the first place to start when anything goes wrong. But how do you improve water quality?

    Filtration

    All aquariums need adequate filtration to support the nitrogen cycle and remove waste particles from the water. There are many types of aquarium filters on the market, but it’s always a good idea to buy the best quality unit that you can afford.

    Designs like canister filters that provide more space for filter media can support larger beneficial bacteria colonies and ensure better filtration. Still, you can also use more than one filter in your aquarium as long as you do not create too much flow.

    Aquarium filters are usually rated by the tank size they can be used for, but manufacturers often overestimate this figure.

    Therefore, the filter’s gallon-per-hour rating is far more useful. As a general guideline, choose a filter that can process the total amount of water in your tank 4 to 6 times every hour.

    Adding a protein skimmer to your saltwater aquarium can improve the filtration by removing even more phosphates from the water.

    Maintenance

    The number one cause of poor water quality is a lack of aquarium maintenance. We all dream of an aquarium that takes care of itself, but the truth is that the water quality in our tanks changes in time, and the smaller the tank, the faster this happens.

    Excess nutrients cause water quality issues, and the two most effective ways of reducing these nutrients are to limit the amount that goes in and to remove as much as possible.

    If you have too many fish in your aquarium, you’ll need to feed them a lot, and they will produce a lot of waste. Consider stocking your tank with fewer fish if you want to minimize your maintenance needs.

    Water Changes

    Even with a low-stocking rate, nitrate levels will slowly climb, leading to algae outbreaks and many other issues. Performing more water changes is the simple solution to reducing these excess nutrients.

    But how often should you perform water changes? And how much water should you change each time?

    Nitrates and phosphates build up at different speeds in different tanks, so the only way to answer these questions is to test your water regularly. Nitrate levels of 20 ppm or lower are considered ideal for fish, although you can usually let them rise to double that without problems.

    Put simply, if your aquarium water has a nitrate reading of 30 ppm, a 50 percent water change will bring it down to about 15 ppm. If it takes two weeks to return to 30 ppm, then a 50% water change every two weeks may be necessary.

    6. Grow Plants

    Healthy plants will compete with brown and green algae to suppress their growth. Live plants use light and nutrients to grow, just like brown algae, and we can all agree that aquarium plants look much better than diatoms!

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    However, growing healthy, vigorous plants is not as simple as throwing them into your tank and hoping for the best. Different aquarium plants have different needs, so while some plants will grow like weeds without any care, others will need experience, time, and some extra equipment to flourish.

    Here’s what you need to know about plant care:

    • Aquatic plants need light to grow

    Use purpose-made aquarium lights to provide the right spectrum of light for your plants, and run your lights on a timer for 6 – 8 hours each day to simulate a natural photoperiod (day/night cycle).

    • Plants need nutrients

    You’re probably wondering how adding nutrients could be beneficial when your goal is to reduce nutrients. Well, plants will use nutrients in the water from excess food and fish poop, but they also need other nutrients from fertilizers to perform at their best.

    Remember, healthy growing plants will use up the nutrients in the water column before the brown algae, and basically beat them at their own game.

    • Plants need Carbon Dioxide

    Did you know that plants breathe in carbon dioxide (CO2) and breath out oxygen? Fortunately, CO2 occurs naturally in our aquarium water column. But some plants need increased levels to thrive.

    If your goal is to simply get rid of algae, choose plants that do not need injected CO2 to thrive. If you want a jaw-dropping aquascape full of colorful plants, however, you will want to invest in some extra equipment.

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    • Plants attach themselves in different ways

    Aquarium plants fall into three categories; the fastest and easiest are the floating plants. Species like hornwort will float in the water column, soaking up nutrients and competing with diatoms and other algae types like blue-green algae.

    Epiphytes do not float or drift but rather anchor themselves to solid structures like rocks and driftwood. These plants use their roots to hold on and to capture nutrients from the water column. Epiphytes will compete with brown algae, although they tend to be slower growers than floating plants.

    Rosette plants and rooted stem plants send their roots down into the soil, sand, or gravel to anchor themselves and collect nutrients. Some rooted plants need quality aquarium soil to thrive.

    7. Add Animals That Eat Them

    Growing live plants is an excellent way to combat many algae species in the aquarium, but there’s another way to use aquatic life to your benefit. One of the easiest (and most fun) ways to control brown algae is to add algae eaters!

    Various fish and snail species eat brown algae, and these creatures can be fascinating to keep. While these animals will remove brown algae, they cannot solve the cause of the problem.

    Let’s quickly look at some great species that can help you eliminate brown algae.

    • Otocinclus catfish

    The otocinclus catfish is a small freshwater fish with a big appetite for algae and diatoms. These fish grow to just 2 inches, and they can be kept in tanks as small as 10 gallons.

    • Amano shrimp

    Amano shrimp are another excellent option for diatom control in a freshwater aquarium. These interesting inverts are perfect for planted tanks, but beware, larger fish will eat them.

    • Nerite snails

    Nerite snails are hard-working creatures that love to eat diatoms. There are a few different species available, and most have awesome shell patterns or shapes.

    Some aquarium snails tend to breed out of control, but not the mighty nerite. These snails cannot breed in freshwater.

    • Plecostomus

    Plecos are armored catfish from South America that love to snack on brown algae. There are many species of plecostomus catfish, ranging from the strange bristle nose pleco at 4 to 5 inches to the common pleco that can reach 20 inches. Naturally, choosing the right species for your tank size is pretty important!

    • Lawnmower blenny

    So far we’ve only focused on freshwater species that eat brown algae, but there are many great options for marine aquariums too!

    The lawnmower blenny is a great little reef fish that grows to just a few inches and is suitable for reef tanks of 30 gallons or more. These expertly camouflaged bottom dwellers may take up to 3,000 bites each day, so they’re great for removing brown algae.

    • Trochus snails

    Trochus snails are another excellent option for marine tanks. These conical gastropods come in many patterns and colors, and the various species range from 1 to more than 3 inches across. Trochus snails are easy to care for, easy to breed, and they eat diatoms and blue-green algae.

    8. Try Phosphate Removers

    It is possible to control diatoms by reducing the amount of silicates in the water. Products like Phos-Zorb from API and Phosguard from Seachem remove both silicates and phosphates from the water to suppress brown algae growth.

    9. Use Reverse Osmosis Water

    If your tap or well water is very high in silicates, your best option might be to use reverse osmosis (RO) water or RODI water in your aquarium. Reverse osmosis water is pure water that has all contaminants and minerals removed through a filtration process.

    However, it is important to note that RODI water for freshwater fish is completely pure and unsafe for fish unless it has been remineralized. Another option is to simply ‘cut’ or mix your tap water with RO water to reduce the silicate levels.

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    FAQs

    Why am I getting this in my Aquarium?

    The most common causes of brown algae in fish tank water are an imbalance of nutrients in a new tank, excess silicates, and excess nutrients like nitrates and phosphates. This kind of algae is very common in new aquariums and usually disappears after a few weeks.

    What eats it in an aquarium?

    Many aquarium algae eaters will happily feed on brown algae in fish tanks. Otos, plecos, and nerite snails are all great options for freshwater tanks. Saltwater clean-up crew like lawnmower blennies, trochus snails, and cerith snails are perfect for reef tanks.

    Is it okay to have it in an aquarium?

    Brown algae is usually harmless, except for extreme cases. A little brown algae in a new aquarium is perfectly normal, but abundant diatom growth in established tanks is a sign of nutrient imbalances or other problems.

    Does having it mean my aquarium is cycled?

    Brown algae is a sign that your tank is going through the cycling process rather than proof that cycling is complete. The best way to know if a new aquarium is cycled is to test the water parameters. A cycled aquarium will read zero ammonia and zero nitrites but show detectable nitrates.

    What causes it to grow in a freshwater aquarium?

    Brown algae loves fish tanks with high nitrate, phosphate, and silicate levels. Nitrates and phosphates increase as uneaten food and fish waste accumulate in your tank, and silicates usually occur in varying levels in well and tap water.

    What kills it in Aquariums?

    The best way to stop brown algae is to starve it by making your aquatic environment unsuitable for its needs. Simply killing the algae will not remove the cause of the problem, so avoid using any harsh chemical treatments.

    Final Thoughts

    Brown algae in fish tanks is something that most fish keepers will need to deal with from time to time. If you have a brown algae outbreak in a new aquarium, keep calm and allow it to work itself out. If your problem is in an established tank, run through the causes and solutions explained in this article for the best chance at removing brown algae for good!

    Have you gotten rid of brown algae in your tank? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References

  • Red Devil Cichlid Care Guide: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

    Red Devil Cichlid Care Guide: What You Need to Know Before You Buy

    Red devil cichlids earn their name. They’re large, bold, and genuinely aggressive. And in 25+ years I’ve seen plenty of them rehomed by people who underestimated just how much personality (and destruction) one fish can bring to a tank. That’s not a knock against the species. It just means they’re a commitment, not an afterthought.

    The fish that needs its own tank, its own filter, and its own insurance policy.

    The Red Devil does not share. It does not compromise. It owns the tank, and everything in it is either food or a target.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Red Devil Cichlid

    The most common misconception about red devil cichlids is confusing them with Midas cichlids (Amphilophus citrinellus). Most fish sold as “red devils” in stores are actually Midas cichlids or hybrids between the two species. True red devils (Amphilophus labiatus) have noticeably thicker lips and a slightly different body shape. This matters because their temperaments differ. True red devils are even more aggressive than Midas cichlids, which is saying something. The other myth is that their aggression is managed by adding more fish. Unlike mbuna where overstocking can spread aggression, adding more fish to a red devil tank just gives them more targets.

    Table of Contents

    Red devil cichlids are among the most aggressive freshwater fish in the hobby. They will kill tank mates, bite your hand during maintenance, and rearrange everything in the tank on a daily basis. This fish does not coexist with anything. I have seen red devils crack heater guards and move rocks that weigh more than they do. If you want a pet with personality, this delivers. If you want a peaceful tank, look elsewhere. The fish that bites back and means it.

    The Reality of Keeping Red Devil Cichlid

    There is no sugarcoating this. Red Devils are demanding, aggressive, and destructive. Here is what owning one actually looks like.

    They destroy everything. Heaters, thermometers, decorations, plants. If a Red Devil can move it, it will. If it cannot move it, it will try. Use external heaters, protected equipment, and heavy rocks that cannot be displaced.

    Tank mates are not an option. Most Red Devils end up as solo fish because they attack and kill everything else in the tank. Some keepers have success with similarly-sized aggressive cichlids in very large tanks (150+ gallons), but this is the exception, not the rule.

    They bite. Red Devils will bite your hand during water changes and maintenance. This is not playful nipping. They have strong jaws and it hurts. Use caution or tools during tank maintenance.

    They need massive filtration. A 12 inch Red Devil produces an enormous amount of waste. You need canister filtration rated for at least double your tank size, and water changes of 30 to 50 percent weekly are mandatory, not optional.

    Biggest Mistake New Red Devil Cichlid Owners Make

    Buying one as a juvenile and thinking you can keep it with other fish. That cute 3 inch baby will be an 12 inch tank terror within a year, and by then your other fish are already dead or traumatized.

    Expert Take

    If you want a Red Devil, plan for a 75 gallon species-only tank from day one. Invest in a canister filter rated for twice the tank volume. Accept that this is a solo pet fish with a personality closer to a dog than a typical aquarium fish. If that sounds like your kind of challenge, a Red Devil will not disappoint.

    Key Takeaways

    • The red devil cichlid is a large, aggressive freshwater fish that needs a large tank
    • They grow over 12 inches with males being larger
    • They make wonderful pets for experienced fish keepers, but they are known to attack other fish and even bite human hands
    • It is easiest to keep the red devil cichlid in its own tank without other fish

    Fish Species Overview

    Scientific NameAmphilophus labiatus
    Common NamesRed devil cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginNicaragua, Central America
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityHigh
    Lifespan10 to 12 years
    TemperamentAggressive
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size75 gallons
    Temperature Range70 – 78 ยฐF
    Water Hardness6 – 25 dGH
    pH Range6.0 – 8.0
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate to high
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityLimited, Species-only tank
    OK, for Planted Tanks?No

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NameRed Devil Cichlid
    Scientific NameAmphilophus labiatus
    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    GenusAmphilophus
    SpeciesA. Labiatus

    Origins

    The red devil cichlid is native to Lake Managua and Lake Nicaragua, two large freshwater lakes in the Central American country of Nicaragua. These Nicaraguan lakes provide naturally warm waters throughout the year.

    These feisty fish have been introduced to a few places in the world, and wild populations exist in Florida and Hawaii today.

    Appearance

    The red devil cichlid is a large, attractive freshwater fish that comes in a range of colors. Wild fish are often gray or dark brown but specimens in the aquarium trade stand out with white, yellow, orange, and even bright red shades.

    Red-Devil-Cichlid-Amphilophus-labiatus

    They may be a single color or a combination, with many fish having attractive spots and patterns. Many specimens change color as they mature, so a full-grown adult may look quite different from when you first bought it.

    Male red devil fish are larger than females and develop a pronounced bump (nuchal hump) above their heads. Red devils are characterized by their large, thick lips, although this feature is much more pronounced in wild-caught fish.

    Red devil cichlids have large dorsal and anal fins that end in a sharp point, sometimes extending to the end of their fan-shaped tails.

    The red devil cichlid is easily confused with another popular Central American species known as the Midas Cichlid (Amphilophus citrinellus). However, the red devil grows larger and have thicker lips.

    How Big Can They Get?

    The red devil cichlid is a large, heavily built fish. Adults can measure 12 to 15 inches when fully grown, and males are the larger sex.

    Red devil cichlids are often sold at just an inch or two, but they grow to reach adult size in just three years or so.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The red devil cichlid can live for over ten years with good care. Their average lifespan is about 10 to 12 years, making them a similar commitment to the average dog.

    These fish will live longest if given plenty of tank space, high water quality, and a healthy, balanced diet.

    What Do They Eat?

    Feeding your red devil cichlid is one of the easiest aspects of its care. These true omnivores eat insect larvae, snails, small fish, and plant material in nature.

    Captive specimens are not fussy, and high-quality cichlid pellets are the best option for their daily needs, although young red devil cichlids will eagerly accept tropical fish flakes.

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    Supplement the red devil cichlid diet with the following foods to improve their general condition:

    Live Foods

    Live foods provide a great natural source of nutrition for your red devil cichlid. These fish regularly hunt live prey in nature, so they certainly have that killer instinct. Live foods like earthworms, crickets, and cockroaches are great choices.

    How Often and How Much to Feed them

    Feed your red devil cichlid at least twice each day, providing only as much food as your fish will eat. Remove any uneaten food before it spoils in your tank water.

    Red devil cichlids is excitable around mealtimes, and they will often crash into the hood of your aquarium when taking food from the surface. Make sure your lid is securely fitted and solidly built.

    Weigh down lightweight hoods to keep them securely in place, and take care when feeding these fish, as an accidental bite is pretty painful.

    Temperament and Behavior

    The red devil cichlid is an aggressive fish, and they aren’t called devils for nothing! However, these colorful cichlids make wonderful pets that love to interact with their owners.

    Nevertheless, many specimens will bite the hand that feeds them, and larger fish can easily draw blood. In extreme cases, you need to use a divider to keep your fish to one side when performing tank maintenance.

    Red devils are not fish you can add to a community aquarium. These guys need careful planning and a tank that is designed around their needs. However, it is possible to keep them with some other fish types.

    Continue reading to learn about the best red devil cichlid tank mates.

    Red Devil Cichlid Tank Mates

    Choosing tank mates for your red devil cichlid is challenging because these fish are just so aggressive. It is best to keep them in a species-only tank because they have such great personalities that you don’t need any others.

    Nevertheless, multi-fish tanks are possible, but you should always have a plan B in case things don’t work out. Keeping your red devil cichlid with other fish will require an enormous aquarium, so consider the size and weight of a 180 + gallon aquarium before committing to this kind of setup.

    Best Tank Mates For Them

    It is possible to keep these fish with other red devil cichlids when they are young, but they will become increasingly aggressive as they mature. Introducing all the tank mates when they are young is the best chance of creating a harmonious fish tank, but there are no guarantees when it comes to the red devil.

    Common Pleco in Aquarium

    Some freshwater fish have lived side by side with the red devil cichlid. Plecos are one of them, although these bottom feeders will become strictly nocturnal to stay out of the red devil’s way.

    Other possible options are large cichlids like Jack Dempseys, Texas, Midas, and jaguar cichlids, but again, having a spare tank is important if things go wrong.

    Least Compatible Fish For Them

    Most fish will not get along with the red devil cichlid. Smaller fish may be eaten, while others may be attacked and killed.

    Red devil cichlids become particularly aggressive when breeding. They will kill any other fish in their tank during this time.

    Care

    Red devil cichlids are not ideal for beginner aquarists. That being said, their care is relatively straightforward for more experienced fishkeepers, especially if you start out with the right tank setup.

    Read on to learn more about red devil cichlid care, their tank size, and setup needs.

    Tank Requirements

    The red devil cichlid needs a large aquarium with stable decorations, a secure hood, and a fine sand substrate. Keep reading for more information.

    Tank Size

    Red devil cichlids are large fish that need plenty of room. You can start out with a 55-gallon tank, but a 75-gallon setup will be best for a single fish in the long run. You could also keep a pair in this size tank, but stepping up to a larger size is a better bet.

    Setup

    Keeping red devil cichlids is all about the fish, so don’t design a complicated aquascape. These fish rearrange their tank regularly, so choosing the right decor is very important.

    Decor

    Providing a cave or shelter is a great way to ensure your fish has a place to relax and feel secure. However, safety is a very important consideration when choosing decorations for red devil cichlids.

    These fish love to dig, and they can destabilize rock piles and driftwood arrangements, causing them to collapse. This will cause injury to your fish or even crack your aquarium!

    Avoid placing decorations on top of deep sand. If you don’t want to make a rock arrangement for your fish, secure each component with an aquarium and fish-safe epoxy.

    Substrate

    A fine sand substrate is ideal because it will allow your fish to dig without scratching or injuring themselves.

    Live Plants

    Red devil cichlids are not recommended for a planted aquarium because they are notorious for tearing up all sorts of aquatic plants.

    Water Quality And Filtration

    Maintaining high water quality is essential in any aquarium; your red devil tank is no exception.

    Filtration & Aeration

    Powerful filtration is vital when keeping these large and messy fish. Red devils is hard on aquarium equipment like filters and heaters, so external hardware is often the best choice. Canister filters with integrated heaters (or you can get an in-line heater) are a great option because they limit the amount of hardware that your red devil cichlid can reach.

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    A sump system is recommended for larger tanks. Larger hang-on back and internal power filters do not have enough to capacity to house adult cichlids. Their activity will also damage internal filters and sponge filters.

    Red devil cichlids are native to stillwater environments, so aim for moderate water movement to avoid stressing your fish. Although it’s not essential, an airstone or two will increase aeration in your red devil cichlid tank and increase the activity levels of your fish.

    Water Parameters

    Red devil cichlids is kept in water with a pH of 6 to 8, although right around neutral is preferred. Ideal temperatures range from about 70 to 78 degrees Fahrenheit, and they will thrive in water hardness of 6 to 25 dGH.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Regular aquarium maintenance is essential for keeping your red devil cichlid tank looking great and keeping your fish in excellent health.

    Perform a 25-30% water change on your aquarium each week to reduce the build-up of nitrates in your water. This is also a great time to clean up your glass, vacuum up waste from the substrate, and perform any maintenance on your equipment.

    Testing Tank Conditions

    The only way to really know what’s going on in your water chemistry is to test regularly. Red devil cichlids can survive in a reasonable range of water parameters, but you should strive to maintain stable conditions in your tank.

    Pick up a test kit that can monitor the following important parameters:

    Breeding

    Breeding red devil cichlids is easy – just make sure you’ll be able to find homes for all the young freshwater fish before you start!

    Sexing

    The first step toward breeding red devil cichlids is to acquire a breeding pair. Fortunately, adult red devil cichlids are easy to sex. The male red devil cichlid is bigger (up to 15 inches) and has a bigger nuchal hump. Females max out at about 10 inches and have a lighter build and a flatter forehead.

    Red-Devil-Cichlid-As-An Adult

    However, forming a pair is easier said than done since males can kill females if they don’t hit it off. Growing out a few young red devils in a large tank and allowing a pair to form naturally is one safe technique, but the other fish will need to be removed for their safety.

    These fish can reach spawning age when they are about 6 inches long if healthy and well-conditioned.

    Conditioning

    Your fish should be in excellent condition before starting your breeding project. Pay extra attention to their water quality through frequent maintenance and provide plenty of live and frozen foods.

    Raising the tank temperature to 75 – 78 degrees, Fahrenheit can trigger spawning since this replicates the natural temperature increase in their breeding season.

    The Breeding Process

    Red devil cichlids spawn on hard, level surfaces like a flat rock, or the walls or ceiling of a cave. The female will lay hundreds of eggs which the male then fertilizes.

    The fertilized eggs will begin to hatch after about three days and will be closely guarded by the adult fish. After hatching, the young fry will be moved to a hole in the substrate and become free swimming within another week or so.

    Males becomes aggressive toward female red devil cichlids at this point, so make sure you include a few secure hiding places and caves that are too small to fit the male. A divider is necessary.

    Caring for Fry

    Red devils are large fish, and you can expect a lot of babies after a successful spawn. Be prepared to see 300 to 800 red devil cichlid fry! The fry gets all the nutrients they need from their yolk sac, but they will require food after their fourth or fifth day.

    Baby brine shrimp and crushed flakes are great starter foods for these fish. You can feed the fry directly using a turkey baster or a large syringe with some airline tubing.

    The adult fish (video source) are very protective over their fry, although you can move the baby fish to their own tank to avoid any chance of them being eaten by their parents. Move the female to her own tank, if you choose to separate the fry as this can trigger extra aggression from the male.

    Health And Disease

    Red devil cichlids are not particularly prone to health problems, and they are relatively trouble-free if maintained in good conditions. Like any fish species, they are most likely to develop problems when stressed by poor water quality, inappropriate food, or conflict with other fish.

    Evaluating their Health

    The best way to monitor your fish’s health is to observe their physical appearance and behavior. Make the time to watch your fish for a few minutes in the morning and evening each day, and pay attention to any noticeable changes.

    Healthy fish have vibrant colors, complete fins that are not held clamped against the body, and a healthy appearance without sores or wounds.

    Buoyancy issues like floating or sinking are something to watch out for, as well as low activity levels and a lack of appetite.

    Common Health Issues

    Red devil cichlids can contract various illnesses that commonly affect freshwater fish species. Consult your veterinarian for more information on treating illnesses in your fish.

    • Ich

    Ich or white spot disease is one of the most common illnesses that affect freshwater fish, and it is serious if left untreated. This parasitic infection is caused by protozoa and often flares up in stressed fish.

    Ich is treated with aquarium salt, heat treatments, or specially formulated medications like ich-X.

    • Fungal infections

    Fungal infections can cause fluffy growths on your fish’s skin, gills, and fins. This form of illness often arises from poor water conditions, so a targeted treatment with antifungal medication and better aquarium hygiene are recommended for the best results.

    • Physical injuries from fighting

    Red devil cichlids have an aggressive nature, and they are often kept with other aggressive freshwater fish. Fights happen, and these powerful cichlids can easily damage each other with their powerful jaws and sharp teeth.

    It’s very important to have a spare fish tank available if you keep red devil cichlids with other fish, even of the same species. Separate your fish immediately if you see signs of serious aggression and treat their wounds when necessary.

    • Bacterial infections

    Fish are susceptible to many bacterial infections, particularly when injured or kept in poor water quality conditions. These infections is treated with antibiotics, available online, from aquarium stores, or from your local veterinarian.

    Where To Buy

    Red devil cichlids are very affordable if bought young. You can find these aggressive cichlid species online or at many aquarium stores. Unfortunately, red devils often hybridize with other cichlid species like Midas and Texas, so buy from a reputable breeder to be sure your fish are purebred.

    FAQs

    Do They Eat Fish?

    Red devil cichlids are omnivorous fish with large mouths and they will eat any fish small enough to swallow. However, avoid providing feeder fish as this can introduce infectious diseases to your tank.

    How Can You Tell If They Are Male Or Female?

    Young red devil cichlids are very difficult to sex, although older fish develop distinct physical differences as they mature. An adult male will grow larger and develop a more prominent nuchal hump above his head than a female red devil.

    What Do They Eat?

    Red devil cichlids will eat just about anything you give them. A balanced diet of quality cichlid pellets supplemented with live/frozen foods and vegetables will keep your red devil cichlid healthy.

    What Is The Difference Between This Fish And Midas Cichlid?

    The red devil cichlid is easily confused with the Midas cichlid. Both fish come from the same family and genus, and they will readily interbreed to produce hybrids. Younger red devils look very similar, but adults grow longer, have thicker lips, and have a longer sloped forehead than Midas cichlids.

    How Fast Do They Grow?

    Red devil cichlid fry grow quickly and begin to change color by the time they reach about two inches long. They may reach 8 to 10 inches within a year if well-fed and cared for, but their growth rate slows after that.

    How long does it take for them to reach full size?

    Red devil cichlids take about three years to reach their adult size. However, they can live for over ten years and will continue to grow slowly throughout their lives.

    Is the Red Devil Cichlid Right for You?

    Before you commit to this species, here’s an honest assessment of whether it fits your setup and experience level.

    • Only for experienced keepers who understand extreme aggression. This is not a fish for beginners or anyone who hasn’t managed aggressive cichlids before.
    • Need 75 gallons minimum for a single fish. A pair requires 125+ gallons, and even then, the female need to be separated during non-breeding periods.
    • Incredible personality and intelligence. Red devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish and develop strong bonds with their owners.
    • Best kept as a solo species. Tank mates are possible but risky. Even large, tough fish can be injured or killed.
    • Will rearrange everything. Decorations, substrate, heaters, filter intakes. Nothing is safe from a determined red devil.
    • Long-lived commitment. Healthy red devils can live 12-15 years, so be ready for the long haul.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Red Devil Cichlid

    This is the part no other care guide gives you. Forget water parameters for a minute. Here is what it is actually like to share your tank with this species.

    They have enormous personality. Red Devils are among the most interactive freshwater fish. They recognize their owner, beg for food, and will display for you constantly. Some keepers describe them as underwater dogs.

    Feeding time is an event. A hungry Red Devil does not wait politely. It splashes, rams the glass, and makes itself impossible to ignore. Feeding this fish is entertaining and occasionally wet.

    They rearrange the entire tank. Gravel mountains, dug-out caves, displaced decorations. Your aquascape is a suggestion, not a reality, when a Red Devil lives there.

    Aggression is constant, not occasional. This is not a fish that gets aggressive during breeding and calms down afterward. Red Devils are aggressive all the time. Every day. That is their baseline personality.

    How the Red Devil Cichlid Compares to Similar Species

    Red devils are constantly compared to flowerhorns, partly because they’re one of the parent species used in flowerhorn creation. In terms of aggression, they’re roughly equal. Both are among the most aggressive freshwater aquarium fish. Flowerhorns are flashier with their pronounced nuchal hump and iridescent coloring, while red devils have a more natural, wild-caught aesthetic. Red devils is successfully bred in captivity as a pure species, which is something flowerhorns can’t match. If you value authenticity and want to work with a real species, the red devil is the choice. If you want maximum visual drama, the flowerhorn edges ahead.

    The Jack Dempsey is another large Central American cichlid that gets compared to red devils, but they’re in different leagues of aggression. Jack Dempseys are assertive but manageable in a well-planned community tank. Red devils will dominate and potentially injure any tank mate regardless of size. If you like the idea of a big, tough Central American cichlid but want more flexibility with tank mates, the Jack Dempsey is the safer choice.

    Final Thoughts

    A red devil does not share territory. It eliminates competition.

    The red devil cichlid is not for everyone. However, If you want a feisty, aggressive, and exciting pet that loves to interact, it is the perfect option for you! Just make sure you read through this guide carefully before adopting one of these amazing cichlids from Central America.

    Do you keep red devil cichlids? Tell us about your experiences in the comments below!


  • Hatchetfish Care Guide: The Surface-Dwelling Jumpers That Fill Your Tank’s Top Level

    Hatchetfish Care Guide: The Surface-Dwelling Jumpers That Fill Your Tank’s Top Level

    Table of Contents

    Hatchetfish are the only freshwater fish that can genuinely fly. They launch themselves out of the water using powerful pectoral muscles, and they will do it right out of your tank if you give them the chance. A tight-fitting lid is not optional. It is the single non-negotiable requirement for keeping any hatchetfish species.

    Hatchetfish fly. Your lid is either tight or your fish is on the floor. There is no in-between.

    The Reality of Keeping Hatchetfish

    The jumping is not a behavior problem. It is instinct. In the wild, hatchetfish jump to escape predators and catch flying insects. In your tank, any sudden disturbance, a loud noise, a fast-moving hand near the glass, or a startled tank mate can trigger a jump. A lid is not optional. It is the most critical piece of equipment for this species.

    They are strict surface dwellers. Hatchetfish spend virtually all their time at the surface. They do not explore the middle or bottom of the tank. This makes them perfect for filling the top layer of a community setup, but it also means surface agitation from filters or airstones stresses them. They need calm water.

    They are more sensitive than most tetras. Hatchetfish are wild-caught more often than tank-bred, and they are more sensitive to water quality fluctuations than common community tetras. Stable parameters and gentle acclimation are essential. They are not a good choice for new or unstable tanks.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Not having a proper lid. I cannot stress this enough. Hatchetfish will find gaps you did not know existed. Every opening around filter intakes, heater cords, or airline tubing needs to be sealed.

    Expert Take

    Hatchetfish are one of the most fascinating freshwater species you can keep, but they demand a lid and calm conditions. When properly housed, they are the best surface-dwelling fish in the hobby by a wide margin.

    Key Takeaways

    • Hatchetfish get their name from their unique ‘Hatchet-like’ body shape.
    • It is a peaceful community fish that enjoys the company of at least 6 to 12 fish. 
    • They are the only true flying fish with large pectoral muscles that work like wings.
    • Many species of hatchetfish have bioluminescence with their own pattern of lights in order to communicate, attract prey, and camouflage. 

    An Overview Of The Fish Species

    Scientific NameGasteropelecus sternicla
    Common NamesRiver hatchetfish, common hatchetfish, silver hatchetfish
    FamilyGasteropelecidae
    OriginSouth America in Brazil and in the southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerate
    Lifespan5 years
    TemperamentPeaceful 
    Tank LevelSurface dwellers
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallons
    Temperature Range72. 81ยฐ F
    Water Hardness2 – 15 dGH
    pH Range6.0. 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedDifficult
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    OrderCharaciformes
    FamilyGasteropelecidae
    GenusCarnegiella / Gasteropelecus / Thoracocharax
    SpeciesMultiple species across three genera

    Origin And Habitat

    Linnaeus in 1758 discovered the common hatchetfish; Gasteropelecus sternicla species. They originate in South America in Brazil and mainly in south and central America (Southern tributaries of the Amazon river basin). Common hatchetfish are also found in the small streams of Guyana and Surinam with dense vegetation (floating aquatic plants). 

    In their natural habitat, they are found in regions that are densely populated with aquatic plants. In the wild, the common hatchetfish are mostly found at the water surface and retreat occasionally when threatened or in danger. Mostly, you will find these fish species flying from the surface of the water, trying to catch flying insects.

    Fun Fact: Certain hatchetfish species participate in the largest migration in the world, migrating from 1,500 meters (about 5,000 feet) of depth to shallower seas. They gather with their twilight zone neighbors in the shadows to eat at the zooplankton feast, where they consume crustaceans, copepods, floating fish larvae, mosquito larvae, and ostracods. But as soon as the sun comes up, it's time to head back to the twilight zone. The hatchetfish has no control over when the axe will fall.

    The Definition Of Hatchetfish 

    The common hatchetfish species go by their scientific name, Gasteropelecus sternicla. They are known for their unique but strange-looking body that looks like the head of the hatchet. Hence, the term Gasteropelecus in their scientific name also refers to a hatched-shaped belly. 

    One of the leading reasons for their popularity is not their particular body shape, but their ability to leap from the water’s surface and fly through the air. River hatchetfish or common hatchetfish can also flap their large pectoral fins and catch flying insects. Thus, in the fish-keeping world, the hatchetfish bag the title of the only true flying fish. 

    Species of hatchetfish are able to fly more than 4 feet and move their pectoral fins like a bird’s wings in the air. As astounding as it sounds, the flying power of hatchetfish is a problem in hatchetfish aquariums as this ability also develops the need for a tight-fitting lid.

    Characteristics 

    The common hatchetfish are small, shiny silverfish with a hatchet-shaped bodies. They are tropical fish found in mostly warm temperature regions at a depth of around 200 to 1000 meters.

    Hatchetfish have deep bodies that are flattened from side to side. The tails are slender with big eyes. The common hatchetfish are often mistaken as their cousin relative, the silver hatchetfish. However, the common hatchetfish species are slightly larger than the Silver hatchetfish.

    What Is The Average Size Of These Tropical Fish Species?

    The average size of Hatchetfish is around 2.6 inches in captivity. However, the wild-caught fish is a bit smaller in size, around 1 1/2 inches. 

    How Long Do They Live?

    On average, hatchetfish lives for about 3 to 5 years in captivity. Since they are social and peaceful fish, you should to keep a group of 8 or more fish to improve their life quality. 

    What Are The Different Types?

    There are five different species of hatchetfish found in the aquarium hobby.

    Silver

    Silver Hatchetfish

    The most common type of Hatchetfish is the silver hatchetfish. They have silver bodies that seem almost transparent and a unique ‘hatchet-like’ body shape. The silver hatchetfish are great swimmers and are known for their ability to jump out of the aquarium. Therefore, always choose a tight-fitting lid for your aquarium. 

    Blackwing 

    The Blackwing hatchetfish are larger than the other species of hatchetfish. They grow around 3 inches in length with darker bodies adorned with metallic green or blue hues on the fins. Temperament-wise, they are semi-aggressive fish but generally peaceful fish, ideal for a community tank.

    Marbled

    The marbled hatchetfish are somewhat similar in appearance to the popular silver hatchetfish. However, they have smaller bodies and marble-like mottled coloration on their bodies. Marbled hatchetfish are schooling fish that enjoys the company of other species of hatchetfish. Thus, I advise keeping a group of 8 or more to keep your fish healthy and thriving. 

    Marbled Hatchetfish

    Carnation

    Carnation hatchetfish are the species that experienced fishkeepers would enjoy. That’s because they are sensitive to water quality and conditions, so little attention is required. Size-wise, they are a smaller species with a pink or peach-colored body. 

    Pygmy

    The smallest species of hatchetfish are the pygmy hatchetfish (video source). They grow only up to 1 inch in length. Also, they have silver bodies with a black stripe along their dorsal fin. 

    Common Hatchetfish Care

    The freshwater Hatchetfish is a particularly hardy fish. However, it is still recommended for aquarists with some previous fish-keeping experience. That’s because they are active fish and need lots of free swimming space. Also, they are highly prone to fish diseases such as Ich, especially when introduced to a new tank. 

    Therefore, you should to quarantine the new fish before introducing them into the community tank.

    Are they hard to care for?

    No, they are not difficult to keep and care for. However, you need a certain level of expertise in keeping their water conditions optimal. Species of hatchetfish are sensitive to water conditions. Therefore, a little maintenance goes a long way. It’s crucial to maintain your tank and clean all the decomposing organic matter, check water quality regularly, and clean fish waste. 

    These toxins pollute the fish tank and affect the wellness of your fish. Therefore, to cater to these water conditions, I recommend replacing the water on a daily basis. If your tank is densely populated with a group of fish, at least 50% of the water should be replaced every week. 

    Aquarium Setup 

    The natural habitat of hatchetfish undergoes rainy season and floods. So, thankfully, they can survive in a wide range of pH, GH, and other water parameters. Hatchetfish are tropical freshwater fish that appreciates water temperature between 75. 80ยฐF. 

    Since they are schooling fish, they thrive in a group of 6 to 12 or more. I recommend keeping at least 12 fish in the community tank because they feel safer and more comfortable. Though hatchetfish are active fish, but not exceptional. 

    Therefore, the minimum tank size should be 20 gallons or larger. Regardless of the tank size, install a tight-fitting lid or hood because you will find them jumping out of the aquarium often. Besides, if you have installed a filter, heater, or pumps, you are sure to cover any openings with aquarium-safe materials such as craft mesh, etc.

    Tank Size

    Hatchetfish are not super active fish but they do require free swimming space, considering the fact that they thrive in a community of at least six fish. 

    The minimum tank size should be 20 gallonsI recommend a long tank with sufficient surface space as they will jump out of the water. 

    Water Parameters

    Even though hatchetfish are moderately hardy aquarium fish. There are specific water parameters to maintain for them to thrive in your aquarium. 

    • The ideal water temperature should be between 75. 80ยฐF. 
    • Hatchetfish prefers slightly acidic water with a pH between 6.0 to 7.5 and it’s crucial to maintain the ideal pH range because changes in pH lead to stressful behavior in the fish.
    • They thrive in slightly hard water so the water hardness should be between 2 – 15 dGH.
    • Ammonia and nitrites are toxic for hatchetfish and harmful to their overall health. Therefore, install filters to avoid ammonia and nitrite buildup and test your water daily. 
    • Nitrates: Hatchetfish can survive low levels of nitrates, but high levels can be detrimental to their health. Therefore, consider keeping nitrate levels as low as possible. The ideal range is less than 20 ppm.
    • Water movement: Hatchetfish are slow-moving fish that mostly swims at the top of the aquarium. They prefer slow-moving water and gentle current. The use of a filter is recommended, and aeration should be minimized to keep them healthy. 

    Filtration And Aeration 

    Hatchetfish are highly sensitive to ammonia and nitrites. Therefore, installing a quality filter is important. 

    If you have a small tank of around 15 gallons, Hang-on-back filters are easy to install and maintain, and they provide excellent filtration. However, if you have a larger aquarium of around 20 gallons or more, I recommend installing canister filters as they are more powerful than HOB and ideal for larger aquariums.

    For hatchetfish tanks, I advise installing sponge filters as they don’t produce strong currents and are gentle. 

    No matter what type of filter you use, it’s crucial to clean and maintain them daily for efficient results.

    For aeration, it’s important to avoid strong currents in the tank as they can lead to stressful behavior. The use of air stones and air pumps is recommended for tank aeration. 

    Lighting

    Hatchetfish occupies the surface of the water tank and does best in tanks with moderate to low lighting. Therefore, the ideal lighting for hatchetfish is moderate to low, depending on various factors, including plants, and species of hatchetfish. Low light aquarium plants are most ideal for them.

    Aquatic Plants and Decorations

    Aquatic plants and decorations are important for a hatchetfish tank because it provides hiding places and a fun natural environment for your fish. That’s because their natural habitat is laden with hiding places and vegetation. Also, plants improve the quality of water by absorbing excess nutrients and promoting a healthy balance of microorganisms in the water.

    Some of the best aquatic plants for your hatchetfish are:

    1. Floating plants: Amazon Frogbit, water lettuce, Salvinia, etc.
    2. Mosses: Java Moss, Christmas Moss, etc
    3. Other plants: Java Fern, Anubias, Cryptocoryne, etc.

    For decorations, you should to add driftwood, rocks, and stones to create a natural environment for your fish. 

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    Tank Maintenance

    Freshwater hatchetfish are simple to keep and take care of. To maintain their water in the best possible condition, you need to have a particular level of competence. Because hatchetfish species are sensitive to water quality, a little upkeep may go a long way. Maintaining your tank is essential, as is cleaning out all of the fish waste, nitrate, nitrite, and phosphate buildup. 

    These chemicals contaminate the fish tank and harm your fish’s health. I advise refilling the water every day in order to address these water conditions. If you have a lot of fish in your tank, you should change the water every week by at least 50%. 

    Substrate

    Hatchetfish are surface dwellers. Thus, choosing a substrate for their tank is not challenging. However, you need to consider the size of the tank, and the type of plants in your aquarium before choosing the right substrate.

    Fortunately, you can keep any substrate you want as long as it suffices your tank’s needs. Fine sand is the most popular option for substrate because it does no harm to your fish’s fins. Gravel and Aqua soil are also common substrate options.

    Community Tank Mates 

    Hatchetfish are peaceful fish that are relatively shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. Since they are schooling fish, always keep them in a group of 6 or more.

    The bigger the school, the happier the fish. Some of the suitable tank mates for hatchetfish are:

    1. Tetras
    2. Rasboras
    3. Corydoras
    4. Gouramis
    5. Dwarf cichlids
    6. Dwarf shrimps
    7. Other hatchetfish

    What Do They Eat?

    Hatchetfish are carnivorous fish that mostly feed on crustaceans and insects in their natural habitat. They have their mouths on the top of their bodies so they prefer eating surface foods such as fruit flies, mosquito larvae, and small vinegar flies.

    In captivity, they accept live food, fish flakes, flake foods, and frozen foods. Basically, any food that is on the surface of the water. It’s recommended to feed them protein-rich food such as brine shrimp or blood worms, daphnia every day, etc. You can also feed them vegetables occasionally such as blanched spinach, zucchini, and cucumber.

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    What Is The Feeding Frequency? 

    You should feed them several feedings a day. Ideally three times a day. However, make sure not to overfeed your hatchetfish otherwise, it will create health issues or water quality problems.

    Breeding

    Hatchetfish are egg layers. But in captivity, the common hatchetfish has failed to breed. However, the marbled hatchetfish are hardy and easy to breed as compared to other species.

    Overall, the breeding of hatchetfish is challenging, but with the right conditions, it’s certainly possible.

    Choose A Breeding Tank

    Hatchetfish need a spacious tank with lots of hiding places, floating plants, and other] vegetation. Adjust the lighting to mimic daylight or use some natural sunlight to escalate the process. The breeding tank should have ideal water parameters with a pH range of around 6.0 to 7.5

    Feed The Breeding Fish 

    Feed your breeder fish with high-quality protein-rich food that includes live or frozen foods such as daphnia, mosquito larvae, blood worms, and brine shrimp. This will help in the breeding and spawning process. Once they are well-fed and nourished, introduce the pair into the breeding tank.

    The Perfect Timing 

    Hatchetfish breed in the early morning hours, therefore, mimic the natural environment of fish in the breeding tank. Gradually increase the light intensity and then reduce it in the evening to trigger the breeding behavior. 

    Keep An Eye On The Floating Plants

    You will find the fish eggs mostly on the underside of floating plants or on the tank glass. Remove the adult fish as soon as they lay eggs as the adult fish might end up eating eggs. The fish eggs hatch in around 3 days. The baby fish need to be fed small amounts of brine shrimp with other small live food at least thrice a day.

    Fish Diseases

    Want an easy community fish? This is not it. Want a species that rewards dedicated care? The Hatchetfish delivers if you put in the work.

    The hatchetfish are susceptible to Ich. Therefore, it is crucial to quarantine the new fish in a separate tank before introducing it to the community tank. However, if you don’t keep a check on water conditions, there are higher chances of your fish developing diseases.

    Like most fish, these freshwater fish are subject to many other fish diseases, such as skin flukes, parasitic infections, and fungal or bacterial infections. Despite being hardy, these fish species still get diseases. Thus, whatever you add to your aquarium. new fish, tank decorations, aquatic plants, substrate, properly clean and quarantine everything before moving to the main tank.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Hatchetfish

    The Hatchetfish is more active and aware of its surroundings than most people expect. In a properly set up tank, it shows behaviors that generic care guides never mention.

    Feeding becomes a routine both you and the fish look forward to. The Hatchetfish learns your schedule and responds to your presence near the tank within the first few weeks.

    Maintenance is consistent, not difficult. Regular water changes and parameter monitoring become second nature. The fish rewards consistent care with better color, more activity, and visible health.

    Over time, you notice personality traits unique to your individual fish. Some are bold explorers. Others are cautious observers. That individual personality is what turns casual fishkeeping into a genuine hobby.

    FAQs

    How Many Should I Keep?

    Hatchetfish enjoys being in a school of at least 6 to 12 and even more.ย 

    What Fish Can Live With Them?

    They are peaceful fish that are also shy. Therefore, they should be kept with compatible fish that is not hostile or aggressive towards them. The ideal tank mates for hatchetfish are:

    Tetras
    Rasboras
    Corydoras
    Gouramis
    Dwarf cichlids
    Dwarf shrimps
    Other hatchetfish

    Are They Easy To Keep?

    Yes, they are hardy and easy to keep. However, they are not recommended for beginners as they demand particular water conditions and tank maintenance.ย 

    What Do They Eat?

    They are carnivorous that need a diet rich in protein. Frozen foods, live food, frozen fried foods, meaty foods, brine shrimp, tubifex, fruit flies, and daphnia are excellent sources of nutrition for Hatchetfish.

    Are They Aggressive?

    No, they are very peaceful and non-territorial. In fact, they are a great choice for a community tank. However, if they are kept in small tanks or containers where they feel threatened, they might become semi-aggressive toward other hatchetfish.ย 

    Are They Hardy?

    Yes, they are moderately hardy fish recommended for aquarists with some prior experience.ย 

    Final Thoughts

    Hatchetfish, like their unique name, are interesting and intriguing fish with unusual bodies, shimmery scales, and peaceful nature. The fish species, despite their many different types, share similar characteristics and behavior. Hence, ideal for community tanks and a treat to watch and care for.

    Check out our tetra tier list video where we rank the most popular tetras in the hobby, including the hatchetfish:


    ๐ŸŸ This article is part of our Tetras: Complete A-Z Species Directory. your guide to every tetra species in the hobby.

  • 15 Best Platy Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    15 Best Platy Tank Mates for a Peaceful Community Tank

    Platies are one of my top recommendations for newer hobbyists. colorful, peaceful, adaptable to a wide range of water conditions, and about as forgiving as fish come. The one thing I always mention upfront: they breed. If you have males and females together, plan for fry. Platies don’t need any encouragement, and they’ll produce regularly.

    That doesn’t make them harder to keep. it just means thinking ahead about tank mates and space. Here are 15 great choices that work well with platies, whether you’re building a mixed community or a dedicated livebearer setup.

    Key Takeaways

    • Platies are wonderful community fish with many potential tank mates
    • Choose non-aggressive fish that are not big enough to eat your platies
    • Fish species that come from similar natural habitats are ideal because they share the same tank requirements
    • Many community fish need to be kept in schools, so make sure you have enough room in your tank

    Caring For Your Platies- A Brief Recap

    Before you can start choosing the perfect platy fish tank mates, it’s really important to know what they need to stay healthy. So let’s start out with a quick recap on how to care for this species.

    Types of Platies

    There are two species of platy fish in the fish-keeping hobby, the Southern Platy (Xiphophorus maculatus) and the variable platy (X. variatus). Selective breeding has resulted in a huge variety of different breeds, including the following:

    • Variegated platy
    • Mickey mouse platy
    • Swordtail platy
    • High fin platy
    • Wagtail platy
    • Balloon platy
    Golden Wagtail Platy

    The good news is that all these fish have pretty much the same care requirements, so if you stick to the following guidelines, they should do great.

    Aquarium Size & Parameters

    Platy fish come from the warm waters of Mexico, Central America, and South America. These tropical fish are most at home in water temperatures of about 68 to 79 ยฐF, so most people will need an aquarium heater to mimic their natural habitat.

    These fish are pretty adaptable when it comes to water parameters, but they will do best in the following conditions:

    • pH: 7 – 8.2
    • Water hardness: 10-30 dGH
    • Minimum Tank Size: 15 gallons

    Platies are a great choice for smaller tanks, with 15 gallons being the minimum size required. If you wish to keep them with other species, a 30-gallon or larger tank would be more suitable.

    Maintenance

    Of course, it goes without saying that Platy fish need good water quality. That means their tank needs a good quality aquarium filter and regular maintenance, including partial water changes.

    If you haven’t already got one, spend a few dollars and get yourself a water test kit to monitor the water quality and parameters in your tank.

    Breeding Platies

    If you’ve been keeping platy fish for a while, you probably already know how easy these fish are to breed. Of course, platy fry are vulnerable to being eaten by most freshwater fish, and even their own species.

    If you want to breed these fish, I’d recommend setting up a separate breeding tank. Female platies produce live, free-swimming fry, so moving the pregnant platy to a safe tank to give birth and allowing the small fish to grow safely is your best bet.

    Feeding

    Platy fish have a varied diet, and they are very easy to feed. Fortunately, most of the platy fish tank mates in this article will thrive on the same foods, but I’ll give you a heads-up wherever each species needs a specialized diet.

    Feed your platy fish once or twice a day, and only as much as they can eat in a few minutes. A high-quality flake or micro-pellet food will work great as a daily staple, but add a small helping of live or frozen foods every few days to supplement their diet.

    Top 15 Tank Mates for Platy Fish

    The secret to a successful community aquarium is making sure all your fish are happy in the same environment and that they don’t fight or harass each other. We have a wonderful video just for you from our YouTube Channel. Subscribe if you enjoy the video and following along with our blog post.

    Each of the recommended platy fish tank mates in this post is an excellent option, but it’s still really important to ensure that your tank setup and parameters overlap with the tank requirements of each species. Take note of the following stats to help you choose your next fish:

    • Size
    • Tank size
    • Scientific name
    • Origin
    • Swimming level
    • pH
    • Water temperature
    • School size

    Now that we’ve run over the basic concepts to remember when choosing companion fish, it’s time to move on to some recommended species. Are you ready to learn about 15 awesome platy fish tank mates for your platy fish? Then let’s dive right in!

    1. Molly Fish

    How Do Molly Fish Look Like
    • Size: 3-5 inches
    • Tank size: 30 gallons
    • Scientific name: Poecilia latpinna & P. sphenops
    • Origin: North & South America
    • Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water temperature: 70 – 79ยฐF
    • School size: 3+

    Mollies and platies have a lot in common, and that makes them great tank mates. Like the platy, mollies come in a wide variety of color variations, and both are live-bearing fish.

    Mollies are larger fish, that can reach 5 inches in length, so you’ll need a tank of at least 30 gallons to keep these hardy fish.

    2. Guppy Fish

    • Size: 1.5 – 2.5 inches
    • Tank size: 10 gallons
    • Scientific name: Poecilia reticulata
    • Origin: South America & Caribbean
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: 7 – 8.5
    • Water temperature: 64 – 82ยฐF
    • School size: 3+

    Guppy fish are yet another live-bearing fish, just like mollies and platies. Guppies differ in being smaller and slimmer, but even more colorful. These peaceful fish prefer neutral to slightly alkaline water, so keep that in mind when considering them for your community tank.

    There are many different breeds of guppies, but males are always the smaller and more colorful sex. Guppy fish are prolific breeders, but their fry usually get eaten by the other fish in the tank.

    3. Honey Gourami

    • Size: 2 inches
    • Tank size: 10 gallons
    • Scientific name: Trichogaster chuna
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming level: Middle and upper levels
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water temperature: 74 – 82ยฐF
    • School size: 1+

    The honey gourami is a beautiful little freshwater fish that can thrive in the same tank conditions as the platyfish. These interesting relatives of the betta fish can be kept as a single specimen or in a pair.

    4. Betta Fish

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    • Size: 2.5 inches
    • Tank size: 5 gallons
    • Scientific name: Betta splendens
    • Origin: Thailand
    • Swimming level: Middle & upper levels
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water temperature: 72 – 86ยฐF
    • School size: 1

    Betta fish are hugely popular for their amazing looks and the fact that they can be kept in just 5 gallons or more. They are aggressive fish that are usually kept alone, but they can thrive in a community setup if they are the only betta in the tank.

    If you do go this route, try choosing a betta fish that is a different color from your platies, and avoid introducing bettas if you have platy fish with long fins. The idea is to ensure your betta doesn’t think the platies are other bettas!

    Add just one female or male fish and provide plenty of hiding spaces and a large tank to avoid aggression in a cramped environment.

    5. Zebra Danio

    What Does A Zebra Danio Look Like
    • Size: 2 inches
    • Tank size: 20 gallons
    • Scientific name: Brachydanio rerio
    • Origin: India
    • Swimming level: All levels
    • pH: 6 – 8
    • Water temperature: 64 – 75 ยฐF
    • School size: 6

    The zebra danio is an awesome community fish, and they get along great with platies! Keep these hardy fish in a school of at least 6 individuals (more is better) to enjoy their natural behaviors.

    Zebra Danios are very fast and active fish so add them to a community tank of at least 20 gallons or larger.

    6. Cory Catfish

    What Does A Cory Catfish Look Like
    • Size: 1 – 3 inches
    • Tank size: 20 – 30 gallons
    • Scientific name: Corydoras spp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Bottom
    • pH: 7 – 8
    • Water temperature: 74 – 80ยฐF
    • School size: 4+

    Including a few bottom-dwellers in your platy community tank can add a whole new level of activity and interest. The corydoras catfish is an ideal choice and an amazing platy fish tank mate.

    Cory catfish are small, peaceful fish that hang out in schools at the bottom of the tank. There are loads of different species, including spotted, speckled, and striped options.

    Their care requirements are pretty similar, but check out each species’ needs and be sure to buy small groups of at least four specimens to enjoy their entertaining social behavior.

    7. Bristlenose Plecos

    • Size: 5 – 6 inches
    • Tank size: 20 – 30 gallons
    • Scientific name: Ancistrus sp.
    • Origin: Amazon River Basin, South America
    • Swimming level: Bottom
    • pH: 5.5 – 7.5
    • Water temperature: 73 – 80 ยฐF
    • School size: 1

    The bristlenose pleco is probably the strangest species on this list, but a great choice if you want a small bottom-dweller that can help control algae in your tank.

    These fish are generally peaceful, but they can fight amongst themselves if you keep more than one. Bristlenose plecos also need plenty of driftwood to graze on and hiding places to stay happy and healthy.

    8. Harlequin Rasboras

    • Size: 1.75 inches
    • Tank size: 15 gallons
    • Scientific name: Trigonostigma heteromorpha
    • Origin: Southeast Asia
    • Swimming level: Upper & middle
    • pH: 5 – 7.5
    • Water temperature: 70 – 82ยฐF
    • School size: 8+

    There are many amazing rasbora species in the aquarium hobby, but one stands out as a firm favorite for community tanks. The harlequin rasbora is a beautiful schooling fish with an interesting black triangular marking on its side.

    These Harlequins are very easy to care for, and they get along perfectly with platies. Rasboras are very social fish, so keep them in small groups to enjoy all they have to offer.

    The other species of rasboras can work too, but avoid very small fish like chili rasboras as they may be intimidated or even eaten by their larger tank mates.

    9. Otocinclus

    • Size: 1.75 inches
    • Tank size: 10 gallons
    • Scientific name: Otocinclus sp.
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Bottom
    • pH: 6 – 7.5
    • Water temperature: 74 – 79ยฐF
    • School size: 4+

    Platy fish do eat algae, but they are not always able to keep their tank completely clean. The amazing little otocinclus catfish is an ideal choice for algae control in your community tank, and these little fish are really fascinating to watch.

    Otos rely on a steady algae supply to stay healthy, so avoid adding them to a new aquarium without a good food source. They are completely vegetarian, so this is one species that you can safely keep with platy fry.

    10. Boeseman’s Rainbowfish

    <a href=Boesemani Rainbowfish” class=”wp-image-1061409″/>
    • Size: 4 inches
    • Tank size: 30 gallons
    • Scientific name: Melanotaenia boesemani
    • Origin: Papua New Guinea
    • Swimming level: Upper & middle levels
    • pH: 7 -8
    • Water temperature: 72 – 77ยฐF
    • School size: 6+

    Boeseman’s rainbow fish is a medium-sized species that makes quite a statement in any aquarium. These fish have neon blue shades on the front half of their body and vivid yellow-orange on the back, creating a striking two-tone appearance.

    These rainbowfish are most happy when kept in a group of their own kind. You’ll want at least 6 of them in the same tank, so consider this species only if you can provide 30 gallons or more space.

    The Boeseman’s rainbow fish is just one of many awesome species in this family. Check out my guide to 15 popular types of rainbowfish to learn about the other great species you can keep!

    11. White Cloud Mountain Minnows

    • Size: 1.5 inches
    • Tank size: 15 gallons
    • Scientific name: Tanichthys albonubes
    • Origin: China
    • Swimming level: Top & middle
    • pH: 6 – 8.5
    • Water temperature: 57 – 71ยฐF
    • School size: 6+

    White cloud mountain minnows are graceful and peaceful freshwater fish that you can keep with platy fish in a community tank. These small fish thrive in tanks as small as 15 gallons, and they come in some cool varieties like the long-tailed and golden options.

    One important thing to note is that the white cloud minnow’s natural habitat is cold water streams, which means they can only co-habit with platies in water temperatures of 68 to 71ยฐF.

    12. Neon Tetra

    • Size: 1 inch
    • Tank size: 15 gallons
    • Scientific name: Paracheirodon innesi
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Middle
    • pH: 4 – 7.5
    • Water temperature: 70 – 77ยฐF
    • School size: 6+

    There’s a reason why neon tetras are one of the most common aquarium fish in the hobby. These brightly colored schooling fish are super peaceful, and they make an excellent platy fish tank mate.

    Neon tetras thrive in well-maintained community aquariums, just make sure you keep them in a group of 6 or more- these fish are social!

    13. Ember Tetra

    • Size: 0.75 inches
    • Tank size: 10 gallons
    • Scientific name: Hyphessobrycon amandae
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Middle
    • pH: 5 – 7
    • Water temperature: 68 – 82 ยฐF
    • School size: 6

    The ember tetra is yet another awesome tropical fish from the tetra family. These colorful schooling fish are tiny, so they are a good tank platy fish tank mate choice if you don’t have a lot of room to play with them.

    Ember tetras are bright orange, so they will complement colorful platy breeds like the sunset variatus platy in a well-planted community aquarium.

    14. Angelfish

    Koi Angelfish
    • Size: 6 inches
    • Tank size: 29 gallons
    • Scientific name: Pterophyllum scalare
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Middle
    • pH: 6 – 7.4
    • Water temperature: 76 – 86ยฐF
    • School size: 1+

    The Angelfish is an unmistakable favorite in the aquarium industry and an ideal centerpiece fish for your tropical freshwater tank. These fish have really long anal and dorsal fins that make them taller than they are long!

    Angels may be on the larger side, but these stunning South American cichlids can make great companion fish for your platies. However, adult angel fish are large enough to swallow small fish, so make sure your platies are fully grown.

    15. Hatchetfish

    Marble Hachet Fish
    • Size: 1.25 inches
    • Tank size: 20 gallons
    • Scientific name: Carnegiella strigata
    • Origin: South America
    • Swimming level: Top
    • pH: 5.5 – 7.5
    • Water temperature: 75 – 81ยฐF
    • School size: 6+

    Hatchetfish are an exceptional addition to any tropical aquarium. These surface-dwelling fish are deep-bodied and grow to just over an inch long but can jump out of your tank. It’s important to securely cover your tank to prevent them from escaping. Because they are sensitive to water quality, they’re best kept by experienced aquarium hobbyists. Keeping a school of at least 6 of their own kind and maintaining great water quality is key to keeping them healthy and happy.

    These schooling fish can be a little on the sensitive side, so they are better suited to more experienced aquarium hobbyists. Keep a nice school of at least 6 of their own kind and maintain great water quality to keep these fascinating fish in great shape.

    Community Aquarium Setup Guidelines

    Have you found the perfect platy fish tank mates? Before you order your new pets, take a minute to run through this quick community tank setup checklist.

    The Aquarium

    You will need a cycled aquarium of at least 30 gallons. However, a 20-gallon could work if you’re keeping just two or three small species. Make sure your tank has a secure hood- most fish are great jumpers!

    Essential Hardware

    Purchase a good quality aquarium filter. Hang-on-back and internal power filters are great budget choices for small and medium community tanks, but consider a canister filter if you want to keep your aquarium clutter-free.

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    You’ll also need a reliable aquarium heater. Almost all the species on this list are tropical fish that need water temperatures around the mid-70s (Fahrenheit).

    Substrate & Decorations

    Add a layer of an aquarium-safe substrate like sand or gravel to the bottom of your tank. Choose a smooth substrate if you plan on keeping small bottom-dwellers like cory catfish.

    Add a few decorations too, but make sure they are designed for fish tanks. You can use natural materials like driftwood and rocks, or use artificial cave ornaments.

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    I recommend live plants for just about any tropical freshwater aquarium because they look great and help to keep your water quality high. Start with easy live plants like Anubias and Java ferns if you’re a first-time plant grower.

    Platy Tank Mates FAQs

    What fish can live with them?

    A wide variety of peaceful freshwater fish live in the same water parameters as platies, and there are loads of great tank mates to choose from. The 15 species in this list are a great starting point that you can rely on.

    How many of these fish species should be kept together?

    In a big enough tank, there’s almost no limit to the number of species you can keep together. However, each species must be comfortable in the same water parameters and each must be kept in a big enough group of its own kind to feel comfortable.

    Are platys good community fish?

    Platies are excellent community fish. These peaceful creatures are adaptable to a range of water conditions, have great colors, and are really easy to keep. What more could you ask for right?

    Are these livebearers easy to keep?

    Platies are excellent beginner fish. The keys to keeping these fish healthy in the long run are good filtration, stable temperatures, a healthy diet, and regular aquarium maintenance. If you’ve never kept freshwater fish before, consider starting out with a small group of platies.

    Final Thoughts

    Platy fish are one of the most beautiful and versatile species in the aquarium hobby. I hope this post has given you some ideas and the inspiration to add a few new fish to your platy aquarium!

    What’s your favorite platy fish tank mate? Share your thoughts in the comments below! If you like our content, be sure to subscribe to our newsletter or our YouTube Channel.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Apistogramma Care Guide: Types, Breeding, and What They Actually Need to Thrive

    Apistogramma Care Guide: Types, Breeding, and What They Actually Need to Thrive

    Table of Contents

    Apistogrammas are the crown jewels of the dwarf cichlid world, and they are not nearly as beginner friendly as pet stores suggest. Every species needs soft, acidic water, a mature tank, and careful attention to territory. I have kept over a dozen apisto species and the universal truth is this: get the water chemistry right and apistos are incredible. Get it wrong and you are buying replacements every few months. There is no middle ground.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Apistogramma

    Most guides give you a cookie-cutter care sheet for Apistogramma without mentioning the nuances. After 25+ years in this hobby, I have seen how small details in tank setup and maintenance make a real difference in long-term health. Another thing guides gloss over is temperament. Apistogramma are often described with a single label, but their behavior shifts depending on tank size, tank mates, and territory. You need to plan for the worst-case scenario, not the best. Group size is another area where most guides fall short. Saying ‘keep them in groups’ is not enough. The difference between keeping 3 and keeping 8 or more is night and day when it comes to coloration, confidence, and natural behavior.

    The Reality of Keeping Apistogramma

    Apistos are incredible fish, but they have a reputation for being finicky that is entirely earned. Here is what that actually means for your setup.

    Water chemistry is non-negotiable. Most Apistogramma species need a pH between 5.5 and 6.5, very low hardness, and warm temperatures between 78 and 84F. If your tap water is hard and alkaline, you need RO water or significant buffering. There is no shortcut here.

    Males are territorial. A male apisto will claim a section of your tank and defend it vigorously. In a small tank, that can mean every other bottom-dwelling fish gets chased relentlessly. You need sight-line breaks, caves, and enough floor space for territories.

    Species identification is a nightmare. There are over 400 described and undescribed Apistogramma species. Misidentified fish are common, especially from importers. Hybrids are also widespread. If species purity matters to you, buy from specialists.

    Females turn into different fish when breeding. A female apisto guarding eggs transforms from a shy, retiring fish into a tiny tank boss. She will attack males, tank mates, and anything that comes near her cave. This behavior is normal and expected.

    Biggest Mistake New Apistogramma Owners Make

    Keeping them in hard, alkaline water and wondering why they get sick and die. Apistos are blackwater fish. They need soft, acidic conditions. If your tap water has a pH of 7.8, you cannot keep apistos without modifying it. End of discussion.

    Expert Take

    Start with Apistogramma cacatuoides or A. Borellii. These two species are the hardiest in the genus and will tolerate a wider range of conditions than most. Once you have success with those, branch out into the more demanding species.

    Key Takeaways

    • Apistogramma genus normally reach about 3 inches in size making them great for a 20 gallon freshwater aquarium
    • They come in a plethora of colors and have over 100 sub-species to choose from
    • They are mostly bottom-dwelling fish that do great with upper column schooling fish like tetras and pencil fish
    • Many variants are easy enough to keep even for beginner aquarist

    An Overview of the Species

    Scientific NameApistogramma
    Common NamesDwarf Cichlid
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginVietnam, Laos, Cambodia
    DietSouth America
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityHigh
    Lifespan5 to 10 years
    TemperamentSemi aggressive
    Tank LevelBottom
    Minimum Tank Size20 gallons
    Temperature Range72. 86ยฐ F
    Water Hardness2. 15 dH
    pH Range6.0. 7.0
    Filtration/Water FlowLow
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg Layer
    Difficulty to BreedVaries
    CompatibilityCommunity tanks
    OK, for Planted Tanks?Yes

    Classification

    OrderCichliformes
    FamilyCichlidae
    SubfamilyGeophaginae
    GenusApistogramma
    SpeciesOver 90 described species (Regan, 1913)

    Appearance

    One of the appeals of keeping Apistogramma is all of the variations of colors that is found in these dwarf cichlids. Every color from varying shades of reds, blues, and even golds is found, making them truly a joy to keep and admire.

    Apistos Cichlid

    Most Apistogramma also have the typical cichlid profile of being slim and long with a thick black stripe that runs the entire body length to their tail fins.

    Males tend to always be the most beautiful of the Apistogramma species, while females tend to have more muted color palettes. There are a few female varieties that buck this trend, but overall itโ€™s the males that stand out.

    Some females do become much more vibrant during the breeding season, demonstrating that color may still play a role in mating for the males as well as the females. But thereโ€™s not much scientific evidence proving this theory yet.

    Types of Apistogramma Species

    A. Cacatuoides

    Dwarf Cockatoo Cichlids (Apistogramma Cacatuoides) are one of the most commonly kept Apistogramma due to the ease they is bred in captivity and the โ€˜Cockatooโ€™ appearance of their prominent dorsal fins.

    Apistogramma cacatuoides

    On males, apistogramma cacatuoides dorsal fin is almost as large as their entire body and is often speckled with bright red dots with streaks of yellow and black underneath. Apistogramma cacatuoides bodies are a muted yellow and sport a horizontal black line down the length of their body from head to tail.

    The females are much less vibrant than the males, as is common with cichlids. She, too, has a thick black stripe that goes from head to tail, but her body is more silver, and her fins are much smaller and donโ€™t include the ‘cockatoo cichlid’ appearance that male apistogramma cacatuoides do.

    They are easy to care for and breed and make great additions to any freshwater tank.

    A. Agassizii

    Agassizโ€™s Dwarf Cichlids are more territorial and originate in Brazil, but their variety of colors and small size still make them a favorite among aquarists everywhere.

    Agassizii

    The males look more like the normal cichlid as far as shape, and include a range of color patterns including red, blue, silver, yellow, gold and orange. The most commonly kept Agassizโ€™s Dwarf Cichlid specimens are the yellow finned variant with a thick black stripe running the entire length of its body.

    These little fish only reach around three inches which makes them perfect for smaller tanks. Theyโ€™re also considered community fish which means they is kept with other types of freshwater life, but just make sure they are the same size or larger as cichlids readily eat smaller fish of any species.

    A. Borellii

    Umbrella Cichlids have an iridescent blue-violet body with yellow tails, fins and faces making them a very uniquely colored apisto species. 

    Usually a female umbrella cichlid is drab and void of vibrancy both in captivity and in their natural habitat. But the female apistogramma borellii is unique in this as they are just as beautiful to look at as the males are boasting different hues of blue for their bodies with a red face and almost transparent yellow fins (video source).

    The Umbrella Cichlid can reach just a tad over three inches with the females being a bit smaller overall.

    They prefer densely planted aquariums with many places to hide and is easily spooked. They can also be territorial and semi aggressive so itโ€™s best to keep one male apistogramma borellii with at least four to seven females in order to keep the peace.

    Being apistogramma borellii itโ€™s a good idea not to keep smaller or fragile fish in the same tank set up. They will eat other fish! But fish at least the same size or larger are okay, and being a bit aggressive is acceptable too.

    A. Macmasteri

    Red Neck cichlids are known for their bright red and blue facial coloration and originate from the meta river system in Columbia. These rivers are often sandy with little vegetation, something to know when youโ€™re setting up your tank for these.

    Macmasteri

    Red Necks are small and donโ€™t reach three inches full-grown. And the females are even smaller. This makes them easy to keep in a smaller tank of 20 gallons or more. Just be sure to have some places to hide, like a clay pot or two and a few pieces of driftwood.

    These are active and playful fish that like some open space to swim around in. Theyโ€™re peaceful and do well with others, but during mating season, you can run into aggressive behavior problems.

    So if you do plan to breed Red Necks, itโ€™s best to place the breeding pair in a separate tank during breeding season if you have a community tank. Pencils, tetras and other calm schooling fish are the best sort of tank mates if you want to keep these in a larger set up.

    A. Hongsloi

    Hongsloโ€™s dwarf cichlids are another variety of Colombian dwarf cichlids that, in the wild, are lightly colored in โ€˜boringโ€™ tannish and white. But the strain thatโ€™s kept in tanks today is a brightly colored red variety that is the result of selective breeding and can only be found in captivity.

    Hongsloi

    The domesticated variety has the common cichlid shaped slim silver body with bright red edgings on the lower half and under their eye. Their face and โ€˜neckโ€™ are yellow and fins are a transparent silverish purple making them a joy to look at.

    These dwarf cichlids are easy to keep and are social and tolerate other species of calm fish in community tanks. They donโ€™t really require any special care and their tanks is bare sandy gravel with a few pieces of driftwood placed to make a few small cave like structures.

    Overall this is a great beginner fish if you want to start keeping dwarf cichlids.

    A. Viejita

    Viejita Rednecks arenโ€™t as common as the other Red Neck cichlids are, but that doesnโ€™t mean they are any less beautiful to look at.

    Viejita

    Coming in under three inches, these small nano fish are playful and clam and boast bright reds and radiant oranges. And like most cichlids they have a thick black stripe running the entire length of their body.

    Another easy fish to both keep and breed, like the Hongsloโ€™s dwarf cichlids, they are a great beginner-friendly cichlid to start with. Fairly hardy, they like a densely planted aquarium with plenty of hiding places.

    A. Baenschi

    Apistogramma baenschi are brilliant looking with a metallic sky blue wash covering the tail end of its body while the head half is washed in yellows. Its transparent tail is edged with black then bright red or orange making this baenschi a true stand out.

    But what really separates them is the enormous fin extensions on their dorsal fin rays that make them look similar to a salt water Rooster Fish. Between their color patterns and long fin extensions, these are one of the most beautiful of the dwarf cichlids.

    They come from Peru and only grow to under three inches. Theyโ€™re also calm and do well in heavily planted tanks that host other non-cichlid calm schooling fish like tetras or rasboras.

    A. Elizabethae

    One of the hardier species of the genus, Apistogramma Elizabethae is one of the rarest dwarf cichlids in the aquarium trade and hails from rivers in Brazil.

    These simply colored fish are a blueish gray with more vibrant blues at the edges of it transparent fins separated by a thick black stripe that runs halfway through its entire length. The underpart is both orange starting at the head that slowly progresses to a bright yellow. Small flecks of an iridescent blue can also been seen in the face of the males.

    These social nano fish reach lengths of two inches and is kept with other non-cichlids peacefully. But they do require a densely planted tank with rocks and driftwood and low lighting to really thrive.

    Although rare, they are a good for beginners and do well under most circumstances. Single specimens is kept in aquariums as small as ten gallons, but a twenty gallon tank or larger is required for any more than two.

    A. Trifasciata

    The Three-Striped Dwarf Cichlid is found in the sandy bottoms of the rivers of Paraguay and only grow to one to one and a half inches long making it one of the smallest dwarf cichlids on our list.

    Trifasciata, like the Apistogramma Baenschi I discussed above, slightly resemble a salt water Rooster Fish with their large fin extensions on their dorsal fin rays that traditionally include iridescent blues and oranges making them quite a site to look at.

    Their silver looking bodies are topped of with yellow running along the top of its back and the typical thick black stripe running through the center from head to its tail.

    As with most cichlids, the females are much less colorful and dramatic other than their vibrant blue fins.

    Although these are easy to keep, keep in mind males of this species often become aggressive towards each other, especially during mating. Itโ€™s best to keep one male with many females if youโ€™re looking to keep a few of these in your tank.

    How Big Do They Get?

    Being a โ€˜Dwarfโ€™ species of cichlids, these little guys pretty much never get to much more than three inches long although there are a very few that can grow as large as six inches making them the largest south american dwarf cichlids.

    And some can be as small as two inches when fully grown. This makes them perfect for smaller freshwater aquariums and play a large part in their popularity. Itโ€™s also important to note that the males are again, almost always larger than the females. This can help when youโ€™re sexing in order to breed them.

    How Long Do They Live?

    Most dwarf cichlids live between three to five years in captivity. Their lifespan primarily depends on the quality of the main tank set up and how well the hobbyist can maintain their water.

    A few of the reasons Apistogramma has shorter lifespans includes;

    ยท        Dirty Water

    ยท        Ph too high or low

    ยท        Keeping many males in the same tank

    ยท        Keeping inappropriate tank mates that stress Apistogramma

    ยท        Under or over feeding

    ยท        Water temperature range too high or low

    These are just a few of the more common mistakes hobbyist make keeping dwarf cichlids. Itโ€™s important to remember that your fish are living creatures and should be treated as such.

    Take care of them and do some research on where they come from and how they live in their natural habitats. This information will go a long way in understanding proper tank set up and feeding.

    Dwarf Cichlids Behavior & Temperament

    Surprisingly, most species of Apistogramma are calm, peaceful fish and often make good tank mates, even in community tanks. And although they is shy, as long as they have a few nooks and crannies to hide when they feel threatened or stressed, they can thrive in most tanks.

    The only problem with most cichlids, regardless of size or where they come from, is their aggressive behavior during mating. Some will literally fight each other to the death.

    So itโ€™s extremely important to always look to see if your choice needs to have a harem of females per male in order to keep aggression to a minimum.

    Most Apistogramma also enjoys schooling. In the wild, they is found in school sizes of two to ten with one male and many females. So if your tank is large enough, take advantage of this and let them swim around in impressive-looking groups.

    Are They Hard to Keep?

    Most species of Apistogramma are quite easy to keep and thrive in many types of freshwater fish tanks.

    Of course, itโ€™s always best if you can match their natural habitats as closely as possible when it comes to pH levels, water temperature and quality, and their natural surroundings as far as substrates and flora. 

    But most of these dwarf cichlids are actually resilient and can survive in an array of water conditions. But of course, unfavorable conditions while being able to sustain your fish, most definitely play a role in limiting their lifespan.

    But read on to find out exactly what you do need to be doing and how to set up everything so you can have a Apistogramma tank to be proud of.

    Aquarium Setup

    Your aquarium set up will depend on the species of apistogramma you decide to keep. Some Apistogramma like sandy substrate bottoms to feed off, while other require a lot of live plants and other vegetation, rocks and bits of wood and plant matter like Indian almond leaves. Read through our section above on what each sub-species requires to be happy.

    What Size Tank Do They Need?

    The saying โ€˜bigger is betterโ€™ is true when it comes to tank sizes. Just think if you were a goldfish stuck in a tiny bowl and not allowed to swim around like fish are supposed to do. How happy would you be?

    But of course we canโ€™t all have 300 gallon tanks, nor do you need to for these apistogramma.

    The minimum tank size for Apistogramma should be a twenty gallon tank. And this is if you only have one or two to house plus a few tetras or one of the other many species of schooling fish to keep them company.

    The one caveat worth noting here is the Apistogramma Elizabethae which doesnโ€™t seem to mind being in smaller shallower tanks, as long as it has room to swim lengthwise.

    But otherwise, if youโ€™re new to the hobby and setting up your first tank, start out with a 20 gallon tank.

    Water Parameters (Tank Conditions)

    Water is the most important factor in any set up and itโ€™s also what youโ€™ll struggle with the entire time you have your aquarium. But since Apistogramma are fresh water fish, itโ€™s not as difficult to get it right as some other set ups are.

    Like most aquarium life, Apistogramma need certain water parameters in order to stay healthy and thrive. Deviate from them and you are putting the health of your fish at risk.

    Being from South America it isnโ€™t hard to imagine that they need warm water to live. The perfect temperature is somewhere between 72. 86 Degrees Fahrenheit, and if the tank retains anything less than 60 Degrees for any extended amount of time can easily kill most Apistogramma. This includes the temperature of the water, even new water, that you are adding when doing your water maintenance routine

    So always pay attention to your tanks temperature!

    And as far as pH goes, try to stay in the 6.0 to 7.0 range for most species. But again, please look at each individual cichlidโ€™s specific requirements to be sure youโ€™re going for the correct pH.

    Quick Water Parameter Guide

    ยท        Temperature: 72. 86 Degrees Fahrenheit

    ยท        pH: 6.0. 7.0

    ยท        TDS: 100. 200 PPM

    Filtration and Aeration

    Filtration has a lot to do with the amount of aquatic life and what else is in the tank and the tankโ€™s water capacity. The more fish you have, the more waste needs to be removed. The same goes for live plants and substrates where microorganisms can end up growing.

    For Apistogramma the perfect set up would be to have both a mechanical and biological filter for your tank. Good aquarium filters will have different stages. The mechanical filter will filter large particles of debris and uneaten food. Whereas the biological filter will allow aerobic, nitrifying bacteria to grow that break down waste and other toxic compounds.

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    If you are on a serious budget and are starting small, a large sponge filter is used, itโ€™s just not the optimal filter for the job. 

    Depending on which Apistogramma you have, itโ€™s best to keep your filters running slowly as many of these come from slow moving rivers or the edges of lakes where the water is more still. Replicating their natural water movements is another way to keep your apistogramma happy without really needing to do much.

    Lighting

    Most Apistogramma are more comfortable with medium to low light conditions in your tank. For many variants, live plants that grow and offer shade in the tank and deflect direct light are a great addition and can help with tank stability as well.

    Try using LED lighting for your freshwater fish aquariums as they offer the best full spectrum lighting and donโ€™t heat up like other types of lighting does. Theyโ€™re also more energy efficient.

    And to make things easier on yourself, use a timer so your live plants get the exact amount of lighting they need. For most situations this is somewhere between 8 to 10 hours.

    Aquarium Plants and Decorations

    Aquarium plants and decorations are necessary for most Apistogramma aquariums and help keep your petโ€™s stress levels to a minimum and offer them a relatively stress free life. Most cichlids are actually shy and need hiding spaces when they are frightened or overwhelmed by tank mates.

    Clay pots and driftwood make great cover and are easy enough to source and use. Just place a clay pot or two in your tank surrounded by a few small pieces of driftwood and that should be enough โ€˜coverโ€™.

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    But donโ€™t forget the live plants! Or think itโ€™s to difficult to grow them, itโ€™s not.

    Plants help keep your pH stable and help to naturally improve water quality by truing waste into oxygen. They can also create canopies to fragment direct lighting.

    Here are a few great choices when it comes to plants for a cichlid aquarium;

    Water sprite is by far the best plant to have in a cichlid tank. This versatile plant is grown either rooted or you can let it just float creating a natural canvas that helps block direct light.

    Java Moss is next on the list as a fantastic plant for cichlids. You only need a small piece to get started and it will slowly grow out from there. Java moss is also a great water filtration plant and adds a lot of โ€˜naturalnessโ€™ to any sort of Apistogramma tank set up.

    Java Fern is another plant that is easily available and looks great. Once your plant starts growing you can cut of the rhizomes to make more plants. And this is a hardy plant that fish donโ€™t eat, so itโ€™ll last forever if you take care of them.

    Substrate

    When it comes to the substrate, you want to mimic your apistogrammasโ€™ natural environment as much as possible. Most dwarf cichlids live in places that have either mud or sand bottoms and it will depend on which variants you choose to keep to know which to use.

    One note, try keeping same species together! You donโ€™t want one variety that prefers sand substrate tanks mixed with ones that require mud and decaying plant matter. Plan your main tank ahead and youโ€™ll have happier fish.

    Tank Maintenance

    Water

    In the wild, dwarf cichlids are mostly from rivers and streams which means they have a constant flow of fresh water to live in. You should do all you can to give them the same clean, fresh water in their tank.

    That means have a water changing routine is paramount. Clean water really does make all the difference, and weekly water changes can make all the difference in your fish’s health.

    You should be changing around 50 % of your tank water every 3 to 4 days for the absolute best results. You can even go more often if you have the time. The cleaner your water is, the better your aquarium will do.

    Vacuuming

    Vacuuming your tank is another necessity if you have a sandy bottom tank. Debris will accumulate on the floor and can cause havoc when it comes to pH levels and cleanliness.

    Once a week is fine for most tanks to be vacuumed. And the cheap hand-squeezable option is good enough for most 20 gallon tanks. Just be aware of plant roots when vacuuming and make sure there are no fry that is vacuumed up by mistake.

    Community Tank Mates

    Believe it or not, dwarf cichlids enjoy having other fish around. A few appropriate apistogramma tank mates seems to make them feel calmer and less stressed. When they have the right tanks mates, youโ€™ll notice theyโ€™ll come out more often and be more inquisitive about their surrounding and even you.

    But what are the best tank mates to keep with dwarf cichlids?

    Tetras and pencilfish are great picks for all of the cichlid species weโ€™ve gone over here. They all swim in the upper water column and are not aggressive at all. In addition they’re big enough that your cichlids wonโ€™t eat them.

    And they look great in school sizes of ten or more. A school of tetras along with one or two cichlids can all be kept together in the same 20 gallon tank or larger with no crowding.

    A few more great tanks mates include:

    Food and Diet

    When it comes to feeding your Apistogramma, remember most are omnivores and require both plant based foods and live or frozen foods like shrimp in order to have a balanced diet.

    Luckily itโ€™s pretty easy to feed your them a proper diet. Some commercial fish food and frozen or even dried brine shrimp are enough to keep your fish happy and well fed.

    Donโ€™t just feed them once a day, or let them go without food for long periods of time. This will stress out your fish and theyโ€™ll start showing signs of sickness.

    And try to go the extra mile by adding some live food to the mix as often as possible and not just feeding them flake food. They are semi aggressive and watching them swim around devouring tiny shrimp or glass worms is a lot of fun to watch!

    What  Foods To Feed them?

    Pellet Foods

    Frozen foods: Frozen foods are the second best option as they are still healthier alternatives to dried flakes. And they come packaged so itโ€™s also a convenient source of protein that sinks to the bottom of the tank where your fish are. The best one to get are blood worms which arenโ€™t worms at all, but rather larvae. Small shrimp can also be found frozen, but the blood worms are still preferable over the shrimp. But theyโ€™ll do if thatโ€™s all you have.

    Prepared Foods: These types of food are obviously the easiest to feed your fish with, but arenโ€™t enough on their own. We highly recommend that you use live foods as often as possible. But a few times a week is okay. Instead of the flakes which to much can cause inferior water quality, we prefer using pellets as a prepared food source for our cichlids. Pellet foods hold up better and are just as easily obtainable and convenient as flaked food, but cause less pollution in your community tank. Look for the sinking type for the best results.

    Brine Shrimp: The best option and most easily accessible are live shrimp. All pet stores carry these, and theyโ€™re cheap and easy to manage. Just buy a bag and drop some into the water and watch your fish go crazy hunting them all down. Itโ€™s one of my favorite things to watch!

    White Worms: White worms are another easy choice and is found in most aquarium shops. The great part about these worms is that if you have a little space, you can just raise them yourself. And they multiply quickly, so youโ€™ll always have a supply of healthy live food available all for free.

    How Often Do I feed My Fish?

    For dwarf cichlids, once in the morning and once at night is recommended. You can also split their food up as far as feeding live foods in the morning and pellet foods at night. Just go easy on the pellet foods, maybe 2 to 3 times a week only. 

    Breeding

    Breeding Apistogramma or any bonded pair of fish for that matter is a wonder to watch and extremely rewarding experience.

    Apistogramma Nijsseni in Fish Tank

    This is definitely something for the more advanced aquarist, but there are many stories of people finding little fry in their tanks without even knowing they had breed apistos or something else.

    So with a little knowledge and luck, even the beginner hobbyist can breed many of these types of dwarf cichlid and all without a special breeding tank set up.

    Sexing

    Sexing Apistogramma on the whole is petty easy. Most males are much more colorful and larger fish than the females, especially when it comes time to breed. So just by looking at your fish you should be able to tell whatโ€™s what.

    The problem comes when they are juveniles and youโ€™re looking to buy a breeding bonded pair. Some are extremely hard to tell apart when theyโ€™re young and it can take a very experienced hobbyist to know the difference.

    So if youโ€™re just starting out and want a juvenile pair, itโ€™s best to consult with someone that really knows what they’re doing.

    Feeding

    For breeding you will definitely want to be feeding your pair live foods. Brine shrimp and larvae are best with some frozen blood worms once or twice a week for added fat seem to work very well when breeding.

    The Tank Set Up

    Your Apistogramma tank set up definitely plays a role in breeding successfully. First, the water quality needs to be as close to perfect as possible. Poor water conditions stress your Apistogramma and lower any chance of successful breeding, so make sure your water pH levels are in align to the type of fish youโ€™re going to be breeding. And some people go as far as setting up a separate breeding tank for same species fish.

    Shelter and Cover also play a major role. They are on the whole shy fish, so they need somewhere to hide out when theyโ€™re feeling stressed or overwhelmed.

    Plus they need a place to actually lay their eggs and for safety when the eggs hatch. All this particular species needs is a somewhat partially closed in space to lay their eggs in or a separate breeding tank with a bonded pair ready for breeding. A simple clay plant pot can work or some driftwood placed to create small caves or caverns also works.

    For the best results as far as survival rates for fry, use a clay flower pot in the breeding process and make the opening big enough for the female, but not the male. Believe it or not, the male can fertilize the eggs just fine from outside the pot. And he canโ€™t eat them or the eggs.

    And for the best results, make sure the cave or crevice is always dark, especially until the fry emerge!

    Males may look like theyโ€™re being aggressive towards the female, but they are actually just showing off and trying to grab their attention, a bit like a peacock would showing off its feathers.

    How Do I Know if my Female Has Spawned?

    When sheโ€™s ready to finally spawn, most dwarf cichlid females will disappear into an enclosed space for a while. So if you notice she has been hiding for a few days, itโ€™s a good sign that she is ready to, or already has spawned.

    What to Feed Them?

    After they first hatch, your babies will live on their egg sack for the first to 7 days. Once that is gone and they are mobile, small microfauna that are already found in most established community tanks will be enough for a few days.

    After a week to ten days, you can add a small amount of fry powder mixed with water and drop it close to the fry group using a pipet or something similar. Do this up to three times a day until they are large enough to start eating small baby brine shrimp.

    You can find specialized โ€˜smallโ€™ shrimp meant for specifically feeding fry at most aquarium shops or online.

    After about a week they should be big enough to start eating the normal foods youโ€™re feeding your adult fish. This is also a good time to move them to a breeding tank if you planned to.

    FAQs

    Can they be kept in a community tank?

    Yes, dwarf cichlids actually do better in community tanks. The best fish to share a tank with are top water column schooling fish like tetras and pencilfish.

    Are They hard to keep?

    It depends on which one you want to keep. With over 100 sub-species in the cichlid family, there are a variety of levels of difficulty. But on the whole, even beginning aquarist can be successful keeping these.

    How many should be kept together?

    This depends on how large the tank is. For 20 gallon tanks itโ€™s best to keep one to two fish, while larger tanks can hold schools of seven to ten.

    Can I keep a single species?

    Yes, itโ€™s recommended to keep single species as mixing species can cause aggression, especially from males during breeding season.

    Are they peaceful?

    Surprisingly most dwarf cichlids are peaceful and make good companion fish. There are a few that are more semi aggressive, so itโ€™s best to do your research before choosing the exact species to keep.

    Can you keep them in a 10 gallon tank?

    No, you shouldnโ€™t keep these fish in 10 gallon tanks. 20 gallon tank is considered the smallest optimum set up for these as they like the bottom of the tank. And bigger is always better.

    What can you keep with them?

    The ideal community tank mates for a dwarf cichlid are upper water column schooling fish like tetras and pencilfish which both make ideal buddies. But most calm schooling fish can make good tank mates.

    How many can live together?

    Itโ€™s best to keep either single or pairs in smaller tanks. If you have a bigger tank, schools of 6 to 10 of the same species are okay, but itโ€™s best to keep only one male and many females per tank to avoid aggression and possible death to the fighting males.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Apistogramma

    Living with apistos is like keeping tiny, beautiful dictators. The male claims his territory and patrols it with the intensity of a fish ten times his size. He flares at anything that crosses his border, displays constantly, and puts on a color show that is hard to believe comes from a fish barely three inches long. The contrast between their small size and their enormous personality is what hooks people.

    The breeding behavior is where apistos become truly addictive. When a female turns bright yellow and starts guarding a cave, you know eggs are coming. Watching her chase the male away from her brood, herd the fry around the tank, and teach them to pick at biofilm is fascinating. It is parenting behavior that rivals anything you see in nature documentaries. Once you witness your first successful apisto spawn, you understand why people dedicate entire fish rooms to this genus.

    The downside is real. When water chemistry drifts, apistos are the first fish in the tank to show it. They fade, clamp their fins, stop eating, and hide. You test the water, find the pH crept up or the TDS climbed, and you realize this is a genus that keeps you honest. Lazy fishkeeping does not survive contact with apistogrammas.

    In Closing

    Apistogrammas do not adapt to your water. You adapt your water to them, or they die.

    Apistogramma species are amazing fish and a beautiful addition to any dwarf cichlid tank. These relatively small fish are a joy to watch, breed and even feed when using live foods.

    And there are plenty of color patterns and varieties to choose from, as well as levels of difficulty in keeping. So as a beginner hobbyist you can start off with an easy dwarf cichlid, then work your way up to more advanced fish keeping with rarer and more difficult specimens like a dwarf cockatoo cichlid.

    Who knows, maybe one day youโ€™ll be an Apistogramma specialist.

  • White “Algae” in Your Aquarium: What It Actually Is and How to Get Rid of It

    White “Algae” in Your Aquarium: What It Actually Is and How to Get Rid of It

    If you’re seeing white fuzz in your tank, the most likely culprit is a benign fungus growing on new driftwood. It’s one of those things that freaks people out the first time they see it. but it’s completely harmless to fish and almost always disappears on its own within a few weeks as the wood finishes leaching. I’ve seen it in nearly every tank I’ve set up with new driftwood. Don’t panic.

    “White algae” actually covers a few different things. fungal growth, bacterial biofilm, and in some cases genuine white slime algae. Knowing which one you’re dealing with changes how you handle it. Here’s a breakdown of the causes and what to do about each.

    Key Takeaways

    • White algae isn’t actually a type of algae. Instead, it’s more likely to be a fungus.
    • This algae is most likely to appear on new driftwood and other organic aquarium additions but can be the leftovers of dead algae too.
    • There are a few ways to get read of this algae, including removing it by hand, adding different fish species and invertebrates that eat white algae, or using aquarium-safe chemicals.
    • The best way to get rid of white algae is by letting it leave on its own.

    Introduction To White Algae In Aquariums

    Everyone dreads getting green algae in their aquarium. But when you see something that appears to be white algae showing up, you might be more confused than ever.

    While algae is ugly, it’s a natural part of the ecosystem. However, we like our fish tanks to be perfect so it must go. There are a few reasons why you’re growing white algae over other green or red algae species. To get rid of white algae, you need to understand why it’s growing.

    But first, what is white algae, and how do you identify it?

    What Is It?

    To understand what white algae is, we must understand what it’s not.

    Biofilm In Aquariums

    The term white algae is a misnomer. This name comes from its plant-like appearance that covers aquarium decorations and causes hobbyists headaches. In fact, it’s more likely that white algae is a bunch of filamentous fungus-like organisms instead of true algae; white algae may also be described as white mold.

    But if it looks and acts like algae, then why isn’t it algae?

    Algae is a scientific group of photosynthetic eukaryotic organisms, or living things that have a nucleus and membrane-bound organelles they use to gather energy from the sun. There are many species of known algae with many different varieties growing in freshwater, saltwater, and brackish ecosystems.

    In nature and in the aquarium, species of algae thrive when given plenty of light, nutrients, and little competition. While unwanted in home fish tank setups, algae is a natural part of any aquatic system and aren’t inherently bad. However, it can smuggle other aquarium plants and corals, lessen light penetration, and become unsightly over time. Some algae growth is easy to control, while others quickly overtake an aquarium.

    That being said, there are only three main divisions of algae: Rhodophyta, Chlorophyta, and Heterokontophyta1. Simply put, Rhodophyta is red algae, Chlorophyta is green algae, and Heterokontophyta is largely recognized as brown algae. Though these associated colors don’t always tell the correct species of algae, you can see that there is no white algae mentioned.

    Plants get their green colors from how light interacts with their chlorophyll, or pigments of the plant; different plants produce other pigments, which can result in the red or brown coloring of algae outside of Chlorophyta.

    If the plant does not contain chlorophyll, then it will lack color and be unable to photosynthesize. While some parasitic plant species can survive without chlorophyll, white algae do not fit in this group. Thus, white algae is not considered a plant or a type of algae.

    What Is This Fuzzy Stuff In My Aquarium?

    Have you noticed a thick, white, slimy surface over your new driftwood or other aquarium decorations in your freshwater fish tank? You might be dealing with white algae.

    We established that white algae isn’t actually a type of algae and is, instead, a type of fungus. This means that it doesn’t thrive from high lighting or excess nutrients. Instead, we’ll see that it mostly originates from the availability of carbohydrates.

    Is It Harmful To Fish Or Invertebrates?

    Don’t worry, though! White algae is harmless to aquarium fish and invertebrates and is oftentimes a natural part of the tank’s changing ecosystem. The biggest problem about having white algae in your fish tank is its appearance.

    It’s important to note that there are a few other reasons why your freshwater aquarium has white fuzzy stuff growing in it. Some of which are not as safe or easy to deal with as white algae.

    Why It’s In Your Fish Tank (Causes)

    There are two main causes for white algae growing in your freshwater fish tank. Often, white algae appear around new driftwood and other organic structures placed in the aquarium. However, white algae growth may also appear to come from other aquarium plants or algae.

    New Driftwood

    One of the biggest problems new hobbyists face in their aquariums is the growth of white algae. This can happen simultaneously throughout the nitrogen cycle, with fish or without.

    A few days after adding new driftwood to the aquarium, beginner hobbyists may start to notice an unsightly white coating on their new driftwood. This progresses into a thick layer of white or transparent slime that covers the entire structure. As you can imagine, this can become concerning very quickly.

    This is perfectly natural and to be expected. In fact, there aren’t any ways to prevent it from happening. Even the most popular driftwood treatments, like leaving the pieces out in the sun, boiling them, or preserving them, will likely result in white algae growth.

    Why does white algae grow over new driftwood?

    Hobbyists must remember that everything they put into fish tanks affects the ecosystem. This is especially true when placing organic items into the aquarium, like plants, wood, or decorations, and filter media that have been transferred from another tank.

    In the case of driftwood, unfamiliar organics, , are introduced into the aquarium. The beneficial bacteria that help your fish tank run are determined to keep your aquarium safe from outside threats while also being highly attracted to carbohydrates. As a result, they start to process them and break them down. This results in the growth of white algae fungus and an unnecessary headache for hobbyists.

    Remember, a white algae invasion is not harmful to fish or invertebrates and does not immediately indicate an issue with nutrients or lighting. In about one to four weeks, all white algae should disappear from the aquarium; as quickly as it appeared, it will leave.

    Amano Shrimp Male

    In fact, it’s better to create stability during this time instead of trying to remove the white algae as quickly as possible. But if you really can’t stand the sight of it, then there are a few ways to get rid of white algae before it leaves on its own. These methods include manual removal, introducing a cleanup crew, and dosing aquarium products.

    Manual Removal

    In most cases, persistence and manual removal are the best ways to tackle any algae problem in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. This holds true for a white algae problem–if you want to be proactive about it.

    We can’t lie. White algae is slimy and messy to remove. Because of this, we strongly recommend removing the affected driftwood from the aquarium and using a toothbrush or other scrubber to lightly detach the algae. Take a bucket of aquarium water from the fish tank to rinse off the driftwood. Remember that there are beneficial bacteria on these pieces of driftwood that you want to disturb as little as possible. Using tap water or other untreated water could kill the present bacteria, leading to even bigger problems than unwanted white algae growth.

    It is likely the white algae will grow back a couple of times more after being removed but will return as less and less every time. To help diminish returns, increase water circulation.

    If removing the white algae while still inside the main fish tank display, it’s strongly recommended to use an aquarium vacuum to help clean up the detached pieces in the water column. Unlike other algae, white algae will not self-propagate when transferred to other parts of the aquarium. Still, it’s recommended to remove any possible decaying organic matter that could lead to other issues.

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    CleanUp Crew

    If you have white algae, you’re most likely in the beginning stages of your freshwater aquarium. At some point or another, you should add a cleanup crew and algae eaters to help keep your aquarium system running.

    A cleanup crew should not be seen as a way to solve the algae problems in your tank, but rather, a natural part of the ecosystem that helps remove decaying organic material before it can start to affect water parameters. Remember that snails and shrimp will not eat fish waste! Although freshwater snails and shrimp are great at what they do, some species can reproduce very quickly and add to the overall bioload of the aquarium.

    It’s true that there are some excellent algae eaters out there, though. Some of the best algae eaters belong to the Otocinclus genus. These fish are hungry for green algae and will clean up a tank in a few days. However, their green appetite can quickly lead to food shortages, so they’re only recommended for more experienced fish keepers. They also won’t take care of a white algae bloom.

    In fact, nothing really eats white algae while it’s developing. Fish and invertebrates will pick at it as it starts to die off, though. And keep in mind that algae eaters will help clean up after the other main cause of white algae: algae die-off. But we’ll get to that in a bit.

    Aquarium Products

    We never recommend using aquarium products to treat algae problems, and especially not to get rid of white algae from the fish tank. But if you’re desperate to get your tank clean and free from white algae, then there are some readily available solutions.

    Hydrogen peroxide is a household item that is very effective at treating algae problems in saltwater and freshwater aquariums. Specifically, spot treat with a mixture of 3 ml of 3% hydrogen peroxide for every 1 gallon of water. Use a syringe or turkey baster to target the affected area while the equipment is off.

    The white algae should start to recede in the next day or so, though several treatments may be needed.

    The other readily available aquarium product is Seachem Flourish Excel. This is a bioavailable organic carbon that acts as an algaecide. The idea is that other plant species outcompete the algae with the added supplement, leaving the algae to die. While this is mainly meant for pest algae, like green hair algae, it has worked with white algae as well.

    Seachem Flourish

    An easy to use entry level fertilizer for freshwater planted tanks. Readily available at most stores

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    If planning to keep aquarium plants long-term, then Seachem Flourish Excel can be a great supplement even after your algae problem is gone.

    Doing Nothing

    Our favorite method on this list, doing nothing, is one of the best, least expensive, and least time-consuming ways to deal with white algae growth in the aquarium.

    Remember that white algae is the result of beneficial bacteria feeding on new organics, including carbohydrates, entering the ecosystem. This means that these are limited resources that will be depleted over time. In fact, most white algae growth stops in a couple of weeks, with all remaining coverage receding by the end of the month.

    To help speed things up, we recommend continuing to do regular fish tank maintenance, including using an aquarium vacuum. While in the tank, feel free to suck up any loose white algae. Try to remove food residue and other waste on top of the algae to prevent poor water quality.

    Dead Algae

    While white algae is often the result of new driftwood being placed in the tank, it’s not the only reason.

    Sometimes, pieces of dead algae turn white. This is especially true if treating excess growth with chemicals that cause sudden death. Again, there is no reason to try to treat white algae as aquarium fish, and other invertebrates will often eat whatever is leftover. If they don’t, then a well-working mechanical filtration system will clean up the rest.

    There are some occasions when white algae growth actually indicates the growth of the algae. This can be seen in calcareous species of algae, like Halimeda. Halimeda is a saltwater genus of algae that grows a hard, white skeleton underneath its fleshy green cover; when Halimeda dies, the white skeleton may also be exposed, making it the truest species of white algae on this list!

    This growth and receding effect is very similar to that seen on the white tips of corals.

    How To Treat (If It’s the Other Species)

    If the cottony growth isn’t due to driftwood or dead algae, then you might have misidentified the initial problem. While it’s unlikely that a new type of algae appears in your fish tank, stranger things have happened.

    To treat algae, we need to understand what causes it. There are three main influences of algae growth:

    1) Too much light

    2) Excess nutrients

    3) Poor water quality

    Excess Or High Lighting

    Fish tanks need a lot of light, but not too much lighting. They also need a balance of intensity, spectrum, and photoperiod. Unfortunately, algae can be caused by one or all of these factors.

    There are many aquarium lights available for purchase today. Luckily, most models can be customized for the needs of the specific tank, allowing for intensity, spectrum, and photoperiod to be manually adjusted.

    Any adjustments made should be made over long periods of time. Plants need time to adjust to sudden changes in lighting, which can slow their rates of photosynthesis and allow algae to outcompete them.

    For saltwater fish tanks, remember that white, red, and green light highly contributes to algae growth.

    Excess Nutrients

    It’s hard to tell the water and tank conditions of your system if you’re not regularly testing parameters. Even if things are okay one day, the next, you can end up with an algae bloom due to high phosphates and nitrates.

    The best way to prevent excess nutrients in your fish tank is by regularly checking water parameters and performing aquarium maintenance accordingly. Make sure that you stock your aquarium correctly without adding too many fish. Have an adequately sized aquarium filter to help process waste and create water circulation throughout the tank. Remove leftover food and waste as needed.

    Poor Water Quality

    While excess nutrients can cause poor water quality, the quality of your water starts at its source.

    Freshwater aquariums can be filled with tap water as long as algae-causing nutrients, like phosphate and nitrate, are low (and the water is treated for chlorine). Unfortunately, many beginner hobbyists do not check their source water quality, causing them to do more fish tank maintenance that only introduces more excess nutrients.

    A good aquarium setup starts with good aquarium water.

    Fungal Infections

    If you start to notice a white fuzz growing on the body or fins of your fish, you’re most likely dealing with a fungal infection. This can look like a piece of white algae that is stuck to the side of the fish but is indicative of an open wound.

    Fungal infections are often secondary infections that are due to incorrect water parameters. Improving water quality and dosing medications can lead to a full recovery and a completely healthy fish.

    Final Thoughts

    Contrary to popular belief, there is no such this as white algae. But if you see white stuff growing from a new piece of driftwood you put in the tank, you’re most likely dealing with a type of harmless fungus that will leave on its own.

    If you don’t want to wait for it to clear up over the course of a few weeks, then you may manually remove it and keep the tank clean, add algae eaters, or use chemical intervention. We think it’s best to leave it alone, though!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.


    ๐ŸŸ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Care Guide. your ultimate resource for water chemistry, maintenance, feeding, disease prevention, and everything you need for a healthy tank.

    References