Reef salt mix is one of those decisions that quietly affects everything in your tank. alkalinity swings, coral growth, and even equipment longevity. I’ve mixed and tested a lot of these for my 125-gallon reef over the years, and the differences between brands are more significant than most beginners realize. Some are dead-on consistent batch to batch; others drift enough to cause problems. Here’s what I’ve found actually holds up.
Are you struggling with finding a quality reef salt mix?
In this blog, we share the best salt mix products for reef tanks, from those designed for high end reefs to basic salts meant for fish only tanks.
With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their salt mix decisions (and believe me, there are so many mixes out there). I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best reef salt maxes on the market.
Tropic Marin Pro Reef Salt is the best salt mix you can purchase for your reef tank available on the market today – period. It is formulated with pharmaceutical level ingredients and one of the fully synthetic salt mixes on this list (Brightwell being the other).
Tropic Marin is a brand you may not see regularly at the local fish store or chain stores, but they have been a major name brand all across the world, particularly in Europe.
The pro reef salt has the most ideal big three parameters for SPS tanks. The parameters out of the boxes are perfect and makes it very safe to make water changes so you don’t have to worry about swings when you make a water change. The stability and quality control of this mix makes this pretty much a must for those with the most demanding corals like Acroporas.
It’s the one of most expensive marine salts on the list, but if you have prized designer SPS corals, Tropic Marine Pro is what you will want in your reef aquarium.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 8.5 DKH
Calcium – 450 PPM
Magnesium – 1380 PPM
Pros
Pharmaceutical level ingredients
Perfect big 3 parameters out of the box
Guarantees ALL70 trace elements found in seawater
Great quality control and brand name
Cons
Expensive
Hard to find locally
Best For: SPS Tanks
2. Brightwell Aquatics Neomarine – The Choice For Worldwide Corals
I’ve recommended Brightwell Aquatics products in the past like their Neophos and Mircobacter 7. The founder of Brightwell is the former owner of Kent Marine and their products are extensively researched and tested over a multi-year period. The Brightwell NeoMarine Salt is so well regarded, that it is the reef salt of choice for World Wide Corals, one of the major coral sellers in the United States.
Brightwell Aquatics NeoMarine Salt not only has all the essential elements of a salt mix, but also does not have anti-caking agents. Anti-caking agents tend to turn your saltwater holding buckets and vats brown over time. What I feel separates NeoMarine from other salt mixes aside from their research and efforts are the parameters of the salt.
Many reef mixes you will see on this list will have evaluated Alkalinity. NeoMarine has a lower Alkalinity, which is great for SPS tanks. SPS tanks need to have extremely stable levels in the aquarium and having a mix with evaluated ALK can be catastrophic as the Alkalinity levels can spike after a water change. This mix is perfect as you can dose to 7.5 – 8.0 and not worry about a water change completely throwing off your key parameters.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 7.5 DKH
Calcium – 413 PPM
Magnesium – 1290 PPM
Pros
Low ALK is perfect for SPS tanks
Salt mix package is measure at 35 PPM – you will actually get the volume stated on the box
Used by big coral dealers
Cons
Expensive
Low ALK can be a disadvantage for those who don’t dose (e.g. – nanoreef tanks)
Instant Ocean Reef Crystals Reef Salt is the budget friendly reef salt for many of us with reef tanks. It is also the most readily available reef salt on the market so if you are in a rush or bind it’s very easy to get locally even from a chain pet store. It’s the same quality and field tested Instant Ocean salt we are familiar with the industry, but with a better formula designed for mixed reef tanks.
There are many incredible looking reef tanks that use Instant Ocean Reef Crystals and you will save some money using it over the other brands. There are a few cons here though. The first thing is the anti-caking agents in the salt mix. If you keep water changing stations or store saltwater there is a high likelihood that the agents will eventually encrust your containers with brown crud. This is really annoying to clean and can lead you to having to replace containers.
The other issue is the evaluated alkalinity of the mix. Instant Ocean Reef Crystals can be as high as 13, which can be disastrous to an SPS tank after a water change. This salt will work great for softy and LPS tanks that can take the swings better, but you run the risk of problems after water changes with this mix with sensitive SPS corals like Acros.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 13 DKH
Calcium – 490 PPM
Magnesium – 1440 PPM
Pros
Cheap for a reef salt mix
Readily available everywhere
Great quality control and proven field results
Cons
High alkalinity makes this not safe for Acro heavy tanks
Anti-caking agents
Best For: Mixed Reef Tanks
4. AquaForest Probiotic – The Only One That Is ICP Tested
AquaForest has been quietly making a name for itself in the reef industry. They started in Europe in the late 1990s and recently entered into the US Market. With brand names like Instant Ocean and Red Sea dominating online and Fritz’s presence at local fish stores, AquaForest is unknown to most hobbyist.
However, this is the best salt money can buy today. Every batch is ICP tested. In fact, you can look up the test results online with every salt bucket you purchase. The owner of AquaForest uses all his products on his tanks. If you have seen his Instagram channel, you can see how incredible his tanks look.
It is very expensive and hard to find locally, but if you have designer SPS corals, this is the reef salt to buy. It doesn’t make the #1 pick because of its price, not because of its quality.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 8.3 DKH
Calcium – 460 PPM
Magnesium – 1360 PPM
Pros
All salt batches ICP tested
Probiotics
Great field results
Cons
Expensive
Hard to find locally
Best For: SPS Tanks
5. Red Sea Coral Pro – Made From the Actual Red Sea
Red Sea Coral Pro Saltis about as close as you can get from natural sea water from how they formulate their mix. The salt is collected from the Red Sea. This produces an all natural eco-friendly mix that is one of the best mixes in the industry. You can learn more about their process in the video below:
Red sea coral pro salt is one of the more trusted mixes used by frag sellers and SPS stick heads. There are actually two mixes Red Sea sells. The pro mix has higher alkalinity while the regular Red Sea mix has lower alkalinity. Both work great, but I would lean on the regular mix if you have a heavy SPS tank for better Alkalinity stability.
The main issue with the Red Sea Coral Pro is its availability. Chain stores do not carry it and you will mostly see higher end local fish stores that specialize in marine livestock carry them.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 12.2 DKH
Calcium – 450 PPM
Magnesium – 1340 PPM
Pros
Naturally harvested
Two choices with regular and pro depending on what alkalinity you desire
Instant Ocean Sea Salt is the most used sea salt in the world. Used by hobbyists, public aquariums, and research facilities. Instant Ocean has been a mainstay in the industry for over 50 years. They have created the benchmark for the industry and quality control standards. No other salt on the market has the history and field results of proven usage then the Instant Ocean brand.
That being said, Instant Ocean Sea Salt is made for fish only tanks. It does not have the evaluated levels and trace elements that Reef Crystals have. However, it is a great aquarium salt mix for those with fish only, fish only with live rock, and soft coral dominated tanks. The mix also has anti-caking agents which will turn your buckets and holding vats brown over time with crud making non-ideal to use for those who like to store saltwater.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 11 DKH
Calcium – 400 PPM
Magnesium – 1350 PPM
Pros
Cheap
Readily available everywhere
Great quality control and proven field results
Cons
Lacks evaluated levels and elements for hard coral heavy reef tanks
Anti-caking agents
Best For: Fish Only Tanks
7. Fritz Pro Mix – Readily Available Quick MixingProduct
If you follow reef YouTubers around, you likely have heard of Fritz Reef Pro Mix. Fritz has a big marketing machine that sponsors a lot of YouTubers and they tend to be everywhere at the local fish stores. While they are everywhere, this is not the best reef salt mix on the list. It’s mostly on here because it’s so readily available at local fish stores and they regularly go on sale where you can purchase boxes at huge discounts.
The main advantage with Fritz Reef Pro Mix is that it mixes very fast. I would say the mix time is around that of Brightwell’s product. For a mixed reef and smaller reef tanks I would say this is a great salt mix for you. However, if you are serious about Acropora corals, I would steer away from this mix.
This is because it is well documented that Fritz has had quality control issues in the past. When they first went to market, there were some batches with different Alkalinity numbers. I have also seen a few mixes that have failed ICP tests with several parameters being too low. Given those reasons, I would not recommend this mix for Acroporas.
It is readily available at the local fish stores and online though, meaning you won’t have to worry about getting your normal salt mix in a pinch if you need to get it locally.
Specs:
Alkalinity – 8.0 – 8.5 DKH
Calcium – 400-450 PPM
Magnesium – 1300-1400 PPM
Pros
Quick mixing and no caking agents
Readily available online and locally
Tends to go on sale locally
Cons
Expensive
Bad quality control history
Best For: LPS and Mixed Reef Tanks
How To Chose A Mix
This is where we start getting into details. What type of tank do you have and making sure you dose to what your salt mix is. There are even tanks where people do not dose, so a mix with evaluated parameters will make the most sense for those people. Nano reef tanks are good candidates for a salt mix with higher parameters since they sometimes are not dosed as they rely on water changes to get parameters back up.
Pro Tip – Pick One Closest To Your Ideal Parameters
This relates most to reef tank owners. Every tank has different needs depending on the type of corals you have. For example, SPS corals like Acropora are going to need different parameters and trace elements vs. say a softie tank. Softie and LPS tanks can tolerate more swings so going with a mix with a high alkalinity isn’t going to hurt you.
However, for a Acropora heavy tank, many reefers like to keep their alkalinity lower in order to keep it more stable and closer to natural sea water. Then there is fish only and fish only with live rock (FOWLR) setups. Fish only saltwater aquariums are not going to need an expensive or advanced salt mix so a budget mix will do the job. Same can be said with a FOWLR tank.
Synthetic Versus Mined Reef Salt Mixes
In the list I’m going to provide you will see that I label each marine salt for you as synthetic or mined. Mined reef salt mixes come from the mined evaporated natural seawater ocean deposits. Others will be pulled from the ocean like Red Sea Salt. There is also mainly synthetic made salt, which tends to be very popular in Europe. Salt mixes that are mostly or 100% synthetic represent some of the highest quality and most expensive reef salt mixes in the market.
Aquarium Mix Parameters And Major Elements
Let’s talk about the main parameters that make up a reef salt mix.
Calcium – This is the major foundation of the reefs. Through a process called biominealization, corals skeletons are created. Without calcium, hard corals cannot continue to build and maintain their skeletons.
Alkalinity – Alkalinity is related to pH but also gives us awareness of available bicarbonate in our tanks. Without a stable alkalinity level, our corals will not have the fuel to build their skeletons. Stable alkalinity will also prevent pH fluctuations. Calcium and Alkalinity closely relate to each other as dosing calcium will reduce alkalinity so keeping a balance is essential if you are having to dose elements. This is why two-part solutions are so common in reef aquariums.
Magnesium – Magnesium is the catalyst of the reef. They ensure alkalinity, calcium, and various reef foundation elements can interact with each other. It doesn’t need to be dosed as often, but if it is out of wack, the your corals tend to start suffering.
There are many other trace elements I can discuss, but for most aquarists, these are the big 3 we concern ourselves with and test for in our reef tanks.
FAQs
Below is a list of common questions I get asked. Hopefully, these answer your questions.
Which Should I Use?
It actually depends on your reef tank setup and the corals you keep. A soft coral dominated tank will not have as many needs as a Heavy SPS tank. If you are just getting started out, you cannot go wrong with the Instant Ocean Reef Crystals salt as this will work for most reef tanks including mixed reefs. But let’s go further into the question.
Where Should I Purchase My Mix?
It’s a known fact in our hobby that most retailers lose money selling salt, especially online retailers as the shipping cost is very high in comparison to other dry goods. This means there are two ideal places to purchase your salt mix. At your local fish store, where your fish store gets salt in pallets so they don’t lose money or on an online merchant like Amazon where you know you are not making the retailer lose money shipping the box or bucket of salt to you.
This is the main reason I stopped selling salt mixes online. It’s just not worth taking the losses to ship them.
How Do I Mix It For My Tank?
It’s actually easier than you think. The main thing since I’m going to assume that you are planning to do a reef tank or fish only with live rock setup is that you use RODI water made from an RODI System.
You will want to use at least a Refractometer along with 35 PPM calibration fluid to ensure you have the right salinity. Keep in mind that the temperature of your water matters when measuring your salinity so try to make sure your temperature is close to the ideal temperature using an Aquarium Heater to bring the water inside your home if you need to cool it down.
Once you have the RODI water at the correct temperature you will want to put in circulation from an Aquarium Wavemaker or Aquarium Return Pump. Then put in your salt according to the manufacturer’s instructions until you get to 35 PPM (or 1.026).
You will want to wait at least 20-30 minutes every time you have to add salt in when testing your salinity. After you have the salt at the correct salinity, let it mix in the container. I usually let it mix overnight and test the salinity again because I do my water changes.
Below is a video from Raising Reef with better visual introductions and with directions for those of you who like to use water changing stations or store water. This is one of the more detailed videos on the net that describes the process so give him a sub and like if you like the video.
Conclusion
I hope this article helps with figuring out what salt mix works best for you. I always recommend to my clients that they need to dose their tank to their salt mix. So follow the target parameters listed on the mixes and dose to those levels. You do not have to follow that guideline if you purchase a mix with an evaluated level of Alkalinity, but you will likely want to still regularly check your levels and make sure you do not drop below 8 DKH. If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments. Thanks for reading.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
UV sterilizers are one of the most debated pieces of equipment in the hobby. some swear by them, others say they’re unnecessary. I’ve run them on both freshwater and reef systems and my take is nuanced: they’re genuinely useful in specific situations, and a liability in others if sized wrong. After testing several units across different tank sizes, I have a clear picture of what works and what’s just marketing.
The Aquarium UV Sterilizer is one of the most praised and most critiqued piece of equipment in both freshwater and saltwater aquariums. It’s easy to see why because the quality of the aquarium UV sterilizers differ greatly and many people do not know the difference. It’s easy to just purchase a cheap UV sterilizer and expect it to work wonders for disease and algae management. I was a little hesitant to write this article at first , but there is a lot of misinformation out there with these products so I feel it’s best to write a comprehensive article educating people on how they work so you have reasonable expectations of what you will get out of them to improve the water quality.
The best aquarium UV sterilizers are expensive, but have the ability to mitigate pathogens in the aquarium water. The cheap UV sterilizers will often only be best for water clarification. With that being said, let’s talk about what exactly is a UV Sterilizer.
In A Hurry? The best uv sterilizer is the TMC Vecton!
What is a UV Sterilizer For A Fish Tank?
A UV sterilizer is a filtration unit that uses a germicidal florescent lamp that uses a particular wavelength (254 nm). Water is delivered to the UV sterilizer via a pump where the water passes through a quartz chamber. As the water passes through this chamber, the UV light damages algae, parasites, and bacteria’s DNA preventing them from growing and reproducing.
UV sterilizers have been a topic of discussion regarding the fight on superbugs. Superbugs are evolved (or mutated depending on how you want to label them) pathogens which are drug resistant. UV light has showed to attack parasite resistance as it destroys the DNA. If you own a marine aquarium, you may be familiar with drug resistant ich and marine velvet coming through aquarium trade supply chain. This is a must watch below:
Aquarium UV Sterilizer Dwell Time And Why It’s So Important
The time spent in the quartz chamber of UV sterilizers is known as dwell time. This dwell time is something you are going to write down as you research units as this is the most important factor when deciding what the best UV light is for your budget.
UV Sterilizer in theory, are all designed the same way with a sleeve and UV bulb, but certain units have larger dwell time due to the width and length of the quartz chamber. The longer and wider the chamber, the higher the dwell time. You can also increase the dwell time by lowering the flow to the unit, but if the unit is too short and not wide enough you will hit a limit to the sterilization you can achieve.
The longer dwell time you have, the longer the water is exposed to the UV sterilizer light. This in turn means there is a higher likelihood that all pathogens/organisms passing through the UV light will be affected. So how do we rate dwell time? The best way to rate this is to categorize the level of sterilization and what this means when choosing an aquarium filter.
Not All Are Created Equal
Knowing the sterilization levels an aquarium UV sterilizer can achieve is what you need to know as a consumer in order to purchase the best UV light for your fish tank or pond. We can break down UV sterilization into 3 uses.
Green Water Clarification (Clarification)
Bacterial, Flagellates, and Light Parasite Sterilization (Sterilization)
Heavy Parasite Sterilization (Heavy Sterilization)
The best aquarium UV sterilizers on the market can do the 3rd category. The middle grade models can do the 1st and second. Budget unit uv sterilizers can only do the first.
UV Clarification – The Most Common on the Market
The first category of UV Sterilization is the main reason why UV lights can get such a bad rap in the industry amongst aquarium owners. The vast majority of UV sterilizers available for sale will only be capable of clarification. In freshwater tanks and ponds, this is still a very good unit as it will eliminate the free floating green algae (green water), but don’t expect it to do anything for bacterial and parasite mitigation or redox balance.
These sterilizers are usually hang-on or internal which makes them easy to install. These UV sterilizers offer little dwell time and comprise of many cheaper sterilizers on the market.
Sterilization – Mid-Level Units
We start getting into more serious UV sterilizers at level 1 sterilization . These UV lights are capable of actual sterilization with their higher dwell time. These units are most suited for common fish tank and pond usage. They have enough dwell time to not only clarify water, but can destroy harmful viruses and bacteria in your aquarium water. Level 1 UV sterilizers are particularly useful in marine aquariums at helping to eliminating dinoflagellates.
Heavy Sterilization – The Premier Choice
This category represents the uv sterilizers with the best dwell time. They are the best of the best in the industry and common to what you will see in public aquariums. That is not to say that this is not available to the common hobbyist, it’s just that sterilizers of this level are very expensive in comparison to others that do not have the dwell to be in this category.
These UV sterilizers are fully capable of water clarification, disease mitigation, redox balance, algae containment, and suitable for increasing the disease resistance of your fish population.
What Is Redox And How Does It Relate?
I mentioned redox in the discussion about aquarium sterilizer categories, but did not define it. Redox refers to ORP (Oxidation Reduction Potential). This relates to the degree of water purity in your aquarium. An effective UV sterilizer will increase your redox potential. If you want the full explanation. You can view the full explanation from Reef Sanctuary.
A Quick Comparison for the Money
Now that I have explained how UV sterilizers work and what the levels of sterilization are, let’s discuss the best UV Sterilizers for fish tanks and ponds.
Below is the comprehensive list of aquarium UV sterilizers with their category of sterilization listed.
The TMC Vecton is without a doubt the best UV sterilizer on the market. At first, you may think what is this brand and what makes the unit so great. TMC stands for Tropic Marine Centre, which is based out in the United Kingdom. TMC has been leading the UK in fish trade since the 1970s and specializes in high end aquarium equipment with reef tanks being their main focus. The are the leading supplier in the UK for livestock and design their own equipment, with their equipment being used in commercial facilities all over Europe. You can learn more about them in the video below. I wish we had more suppliers like this in the US:
So now that you know what TMC is let’s talk about why this unit is the best available.The main thing that makes TMC Vectons so great is their dwell time. They have the longest dwell time available in aquarium UV sterilizers because their chamber is very wide. The UV bulb is also unique from other makers in that they use a wider T8 UV bulb versus a the standard T5 used in most UV sterilizers. This wide UV bulb is more effective at sterilizing than other units in the market.
The next thing to love is how the UV light is assembled. It comes with its own docking bay so you can easily mount to your aquarium stand or wall. This docking bay allows you to pop up the bay and perform maintenance on the unit and keeps the electronics safe and secure. The UV sterilizer also comes with a swivel arm that can be placed at the top or below of the unit for ease of install and adapt to piping.
The main downfall with this sterilizer is its availability. Because it’s made in the UK, it’s difficult to find their small units available unless you purchase a transformer. The 25 watt unit is the main UV sterilizer you want to look for and will handle small and large tanks.
The UV light and its dwell time will outperform larger wattage units. This UV light will be the equivalent of 40 watts for many other UVs out there. The UV bulbs will also need to be special ordered, but given the performance this unit provides and the fact that it is a bargain over the more expensive Aqua UV classic makes these worth it.
Pros
The best heavy sterilization available to the hobbyist
T8 over T5 provides the highest dwell time available
Docking bay is an excellent feature that makes this unit easier to install
Cons
Hard to find and order
Only 25 watts
2. Aqua Advantage – Hang On The Back for Small Tanks
The Aqua UV Advantage series is a hang on the back UV sterilizer specifically made for small and sumpless tanks. Aqua UV makes some of the best UV sterilizers in the market and they haven’t skipped on their well known quality in this unit. This UV sterilizer has the same quality build and larger dwell chamber.
It is a bit small to qualify as a sterilizer capable of level 2 sterilization for your tank water, but it is a strong first category sterilizer and there are honestly very few high end sterilizers available at this size. If you have a sumpless fish tank, this is a great UV sterilizer to look into.
Pros
Compact size
Works with sumpless tanks
Quality sterilization
Cons
Expensive
Smaller dwell time than the classic models
Best For: A sumpless fish tank
3. Green Killing Machine – Simple To Use Green Water Clarifier
For those of you looking for an easy to use UV light out of the box, the Green Killing Machine is a great unit to get. It works internally with a pump included. The Green Killing Machine is small enough to fit in a small sump or inside your fish tank where you plants or rock can hide it.
This unit is not very powerful though. You will need to purchase this knowing it is only UV capable of clarification, but it does a great job of clearing up green water out of the aquarium. Just see the differences below of what this little UV light can do.
Before:
After 6 days:
If you have a green water problem, the Green Killing Machine is the perfect aquarium UV sterilizer for you. It is cheap and easy to use. The Green Killing Machine is very effective at what it is marketed for, which is removing green water.
Pros
Cheap ready to run unit
Can be run internally in the display tank
Cons
Only capable of clarification in your tank water
May be too large to work in all in one aquarium chambers
The Aqua UV Classic is the gold standard in aquarium UV sterilizers in the market, especially in the US. This is an American Made UV Sterilizer that has a great dwell time capable of heavy sterilization. One of the models can be very large like the 40 watt UV sterilizer model that is a 44 inch unit! The length of these units is to increase the dwell time of the UV light as much as possible.
These units are meant to be run in an aquarium sump or separate area for pond usage. If you are looking for a top quality American Made UV-C light, look no further than an Aqua UV Sterilizer. They are expensive, but worth the investment for what they can do to your tank water. Just get the non wiper variants if you are purchasing this UV sterilizer for a reef tank.
Pros
American Made UV sterilizer
Capable of heavy sterilization
Many sizes so they can handle very large aquariums and ponds
Cons
Expense
Large – they are best in sump and basement/fishroom setups
Best For: A large fish tank with sumps or canister filters. Ideal for ponds
The Bloom Clean UV Sterilizer is one of the cheapest sterilizers on the market. They are perfect for those with small tanks and just want something that gets rid of green water. It has no fancy sleeve or chamber like others. Make sure to keep the uv light in a hidden area. It is very bare bones, which is why they are so cheap.
You will want to use them in an all in one aquarium chamber or in a larger power filter away from the main display tank. As a clarifier and the price, it is a great UV light for a budget fish tank keeper and a cheap solution for those who want to get rid of green water.
Pros
Cheap
Compact and will fit in power filters and all in one chambers
Cons
Only a clarifier
Bare bones – no sleeve to block UV light to rest of tank
Best For: A small fish tank with power filters or all in one aquariums
The Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is probably going to be the most widely available UV sterilizer on this list. The main feature with the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is that it has a twist chamber which really cuts down on the size making this a compact unit even for it’s larger models. It still needs to be used with a Canister Filter or a Sump, but you can work with smaller spaces with it.
Given it’s twist chamber, it has the added dwell time that makes it a first category sterilizer, which will satisfy most requirements for fish tank and pond keepers. Overall, the Coralife Turbo Twist UV Sterilizer is a good all around unit that is easy to find in stores and easy to get UV bulbs and replacement parts.
Pros
Widely available UV Sterilizer
Compact Size for its dwell time
Cons
Can be used in an all in one tank
Pricey for a first category UV light sterilizer
Best For: Aquariums with sumps or canister filters
7. Innovative Marine Auqa Shield – The Choice for All-In-One Tanks
Finding a quality UV sterilizer for aquarium can be frustrating for those with all in on tanks because of the size of the chambers. Innovative Marine has addressed this issue with their very own AUQA Shield UV Sterilizer. This high quality UV light is made to work in your first chamber with a sponge prefilter so you can still have space your other equipment like media reactors and protein skimmers or additional biological media.
Innovative marine makes this a very easy to use unit as the aquarium uv sterilizer bulbs work in cartridges that you just pull out and dispose off when they are ready to be replaced. this makes maintenance and install very easy and one of the easiest and carefree units to operate on the list. Innovative also makes a universal model that hang right into an aquarium sump for those of you with small sumps that want a plug and play unit. These uv sterilizer units are capable of the first category of sterilization so you will be getting a standard sterilization, which should suit most aquarists needs.
Pros
Compact and works in all in one aquariums
Disposable cartridges make this easy to maintain
Comes with a prefilter
Cons
Larger models not available for big tanks
A bit on the pricey side
Low wattage UV light
Best For: All in one aquariums
8. Lifegard Prostep – A Good Choice for Canister Filters
The Lifegard Prostep UV Sterilizer is an inline sterilizer that is made to either hang on your tank or stand inside your stand. Given the way this UV light is built and how it works, the Lifegard Prostep UV Sterilizer works best for canister filter setups as it can sit right next to your canister filter in your stand. This is an easier and trouble free setup than say your Aqua UV classic, which does not come with any mounting equipment and you have to worry about fitting a giant UV sterilizer unit in your stand and buying mounts for it.
This unit has pushes water through the UV sterilizer in a step pattern to maximize the dwell time in the chamber. This puts this unit at the higher end of the first category sterilizers but at a much cheaper price than the Aqua UV classic. While it is not at the performance level of a UV Classic, it is close enough where if one is considering a higher end UV light, this will be seen as a bargain unit. You can also hang this on the back of your fish tank or sump, which give this extra versatility.
Pros
Works great under the cabinet with its standalone design
Step design gives good dwell time
Cons
More advanced install then cheaper units
Hang on is still pretty large even for the 15 watt UV sterilizer models
The Jabeo UV Sterilizer in my experience usually comes into play when I have someone I know dealing with a dinoflagellates outbreak. You need at least a level 1 aquarium UV sterilizer to kill dinos and the Jabeo is a cheap and effective unit to use to handle them. They are big units with a good amount of dwell time. For the price and size, they are good units to consider and also work very well in ponds clearing up green water and providing clarity in the water.
What I don’t like with this unit is the ballast is bulky and will not detach from the sleeve assembly. This makes it a bit of a pain fitting it into a cabinet because you have to provide a hole big enough to fit the ballast in. The UV lamp bulbs are easy to find online and you know that it is a solid first category sterilizer. It is a good all around unit and one of the better Jabeo units on the market next to their DCP aquarium return pumpsand SOW wavemakers.
Pros
Cheap for the performance you get
Inlet and out adjust up and down for easy adjustments
Readily available UV light bulbs
Cons
Made to be made inside a cabinet
Ballast is large and annoying to work with
Best For: Tanks dealing with dino outbreaks and larger tank owners who want some parasite control.
Our Recommendations
Like I usually do, I’m going to provide a list as it will depend on your aquarium and needs. Here is what I would recommend.
Aquarium UV sterilizers fall in the more advanced category of fish keeping equipment so these FAQs should hopefully help out.
How Do I Install One In My Tank?
It will depend on the make and model you purchase, but I’m going to supply the video of one of the best out there from TMC to show you know the installs work. Many of these units are designed to be ready to run with some tubing required on your end to purchase or a pump or outlet source to be provided.
How Often Do I Change the Bulbs?
You should change your UV lamp bulb every 6-12 months. You can stretch it to 12 months if you want, but the effectiveness of the UV bulb decreases as it ages so you do not want to go too long not replacing them. If you replace your UV light bulb every 6 months, you can ensure that you have the optimum performance running 24-7.
Can They Really Eliminate Ich?
Freshwater (Ichthyophthirius) and Saltwater (Cryptocaryon) ich is always a big topic in disease when it comes to our hobby. Some people will tell you that a UV sterilizer can eliminate ich, but that is not the case. A UV sterilizer will not completely eliminate ich, but it will be a very useful tool in disease management, particularly hobbyist who are not willing to quarantine fish. If you are buying the healthiest stock you can get, there is still a decent chance (much higher chance with marine fish) that there will be ich present living in your fish tank. UV sterilizers will eliminate the free floating ich stage in your aquarium, but it will only eliminate the free floating parasites that manage to make it into the sterilization chamber. You will have less parasites with a level 1 or level 2 aquarium UV sterilizer, which will increase fish immunity.
How Many Gallons Per Hour (Flow) Does It Need?
Here is a real simple chart to sort out what gallons per hour you need to run through your UV sterilizer in order to achieve the proper sterilization stages:
Clarification 40-50 GPH per watt for most 50-60 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton Sterilization 20-30 GPH per watt for most 30-35 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton Heavy Sterilization 10-12 GPH per watt for Aqua UV Classic/Vecton
Conclusion
I hope this article helps dispel a number of myths about aquarium UV sterilizers. Judging performance on UV sterilizers is all about knowing dwell time and separating the various players in the market by how much dwell time they offer. Once you know that, you can choose the UV sterilizer for your aquarium based on your needs and budget. If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Thanks for reading.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
I’ve run hang-on-back power filters on more tanks than I can count. from small 10-gallon betta setups to my 65-gallon community tank. They’re still my go-to recommendation for most freshwater hobbyists because they’re reliable, easy to maintain, and genuinely effective when matched to the right tank size. After 25 years I know which brands hold up and which ones fail at the impeller after six months. Here’s what I actually use and recommend.
Power filters. hang-on-back filters. are still the most widely used filtration option in the hobby, and for good reason: they’re affordable, easy to maintain, and effective in tanks up to about 75 gallons. I’ve run HOB filters on freshwater community tanks, betta setups, and quarantine tanks over my 25 years in the hobby, and I have clear opinions on which brands consistently perform and which ones fail within a year. This guide covers the best power filters I’ve actually used and what makes them worth the investment.
What Is A Power Filter In An Aquarium?
A power filter is a filtration (video source) unit that hangs on the back of your aquarium. It suctions water out of your display tank into the filter chamber. It pulls water out of your aquarium with a pump where it enters the filter box. Most power filters will comprise of 3 stages of filtration: mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration.
Each stage works together to complete the nitrogen cycle and keep your aquarium healthy. Some filters have separated filtration stages while others operate like a big filter box similar to a canister filter.
The Nitrogen Cycle
Since we are talking about the nitrogen cycle, let’s explain what is it using this graphic from Fluval Aquatics (above) and video below from AGamer’s Wife. I like her video because she breaks down the cycle without all the scientific technical explanation and talks about how plants can be used as part of the nitrogen cycle. I’ll cover planted tanks in a later post, but this should be plenty to explain and get you started:
HOB (Hang On Back) Filters vs. Canister Filters
There is a big debate on HOB vs. Canister Filters and what works best for an aquarium. Since this blog post is focused on basic filtration and setups, a HOB Filter (or power filter) is going to be cheaper, easier to use, and easier to maintain then a canister filter. If you are a first time aquarium keeper and want simplicity a hang on back power filter is going to be the way to go — they are also a lot cheaper than canister filters!
A Canister filter is a larger filtration unit. It holds a much larger capacity for filter media and biological filtration than a power filter can, their flow rate can be a lot more , and they are rated for larger tanks. A canister filter is able to hide easier in your aquarium and can equip inline heaters.
They are more complex, but you get the added value of keeping things hidden in your cabinet with a canister filter and being able to run more advanced filtration/systems such as inline heaters, and stand alone uv sterilizers. Canister filters are also much quieter than power filters. Noise as you will see with the reviews done on this post, is the main Achilles heal of power filters.
The Candidates – A Quick Comparison
Now that you know why it’s important to have a filtration unit that covers the nitrogen cycle, let’s take about the best power filters out in the market today. All the power filters I’m going to cover here are quality filters and will meet all budgets.
The Hagen AquaClear has been around for ages. It’s literally the Honda Accord of power filters. It is extremely reliable and has been relevantly unchanged since the 80s. It is the best selling hang on back filter in the world for a reason.
The Aquaclear has been around for many years with many field test testimonials. It has a stellar reputation not only in the freshwater hobby, but in turtle tanks, and in saltwater tanks. It’s just about the only power filter I recommend for saltwater tanks because it is so versatile filter and reliable.
It’s versatility comes from the fact that the filter is just a big container of filter media. You can pick and chose what chemical media you want or upgrade the biological media. Want to upgrade to better carbon? Just grab a bag and purchase some high end carbon. Want to use better biological media like BioHome, easily done.
There are also various 3rd party mods available, like inTank, which makes mods that convert the filter into an all in one unit. I had also seen people make algae scrubbers and hang on refugiums with them.
Another factor that makes this power filter great is that it runs off foam for mechanical filtration. The foam is reusable, so you do not have to worry about replacing it. This removes the ongoing cost of running the aquarium. Your chemical media is the only piece that you need to replace with an Aquaclear!
It’s easy to see what makes the Aquaclear so great. It looks outdated with it’s clear tubing and retro style filter box, but it has stood the test of time and truly earns its title of best selling power filter of all time!
Pros
Extremely versatile chambers – which many 3rd party mods available
Field tested over the years with great reliability
Reusable filter media – only the carbon is disposable!
Cons
Clear intake and outdated looking style
Not quiet
2. Seachem Tidal – An Vastly Improved AquaClear Clone
The SeachemTidalFilter is a new player in the crowded power filter market. However, this one really stands out. The Tidal is a premium power filter that improves on everything that makes the Hagen AquaClear so great. It starts with the design itself being made by Sicce. Sicce, for those of you who haven’t seen our other posts, is an Italian Company that builds premium equipment that is built to last. I’m a huge fan of all the products they make.
This Tidal filter literally took everything that makes the AquaClear great and improved everything. The filter comes with a heater holder for you to place your heater next to the filter making sure the heated water is circulated to the aquarium. The filter has an intake and a surface skimmer, doubling the filtration efficiency way above the others listed on this list.
The filter uses a removable filter bracket that holds all the filter media. Seachem really makes maintenance easy for you as you can simply lift out the bracket for easy cleaning with no mess. The bracket incorporates a open media design allow you to put anything you want in there. It’s literally a hang on canister filter with their design.
The standard out of box filtration components are actually pretty good here. Seachem gives you standard foam (which is reusable), Seachem Matrix Carbon, and Seachem Matrix Bio Media. The carbon is a premium level carbon and the matrix is a great starter biological media.
I’m not even through with the offering of this power filter package. This filter has adjustable flow right on the front of the filter that is easy to access. There is also a maintenance alert feature that raises up to tell you when you need to replace media. That finish this all off with a self-priming Sicce built pump that is a workhorse and Sicce quiet (which means dead quiet). Even the power consumption on this feature is incredible. The largest 110 model only consumes 12 watts. That is low enough to add this to a UPS and literally never worry about power outages again! Oh yeah, it has an extendable 5 year warranty.
So what is there not to like here? Well, it is one of the most expensive power filters on this list and some of the features I talked about like the heater holder are not available on the smallest model.
Pros
Made by Sicce
Flexible media design
Premium features
Cons
Expensive
Not all features are available on smallest model
3. Penn Plax Cascade – A Value Priced 4 Stage Unit
The Penn Plax Casade filter offers an affordable power filter for those with smaller tanks. They have models that can work for tanks as small as 7 gallons making them ideal for pico sized aquariums. The filter is pretty comprehensive for a budget power filter offering a 4 stage filtration system. There is a mechanical and chemial stage that comes form the filter bag and a foam biological section. There is a plastic 4 stage biological filtration chamber that operates somewhat like bio balls. The filter has an adjustable nozzle to control the flow and has a telescoping intake so you can adjust to the desired height.
It isn’t as commonly available as say the Marineland and Hagen filters, but it is cheaper than both. You will still need to purchase the filter bags so there is monthly replacement costs associated with them (the bags are also more expensive then the penguins).
Overall, this is a pretty solid filter, especially if you have a smaller tank.
Pros
Features for the price
Small models available for pico sized aquariums
4 Stage filtration
Cons
Harder to find parts
You can’t pick your own media with filter cartridges
4. Penguin Biowheel – Wet/Dry Filtration At An Affordable Price!
The Marineland Penguin Biowheel is a power filter that offers wet/dry biological filtration. This provides superior biological filtration out of the box over other competitor power filters. In freshwater aquariums, the wheel actually changes color as it matures. The price for this filter is very reasonable for what it offers and the replacement cartridges are very east to find and cheap making your ongoing costs very low. They come in a variety of sizes so you can use this with both small and larger tanks.
The main downfall with this power filter is there isn’t space for adding option chemical media. You have to use the rite-size cart which limits you with only being able to use the carbon that comes with the cartridges. The biowheel can also get stuck over time, which can hinder the performance of the biological filtration as time goes on. This adds some additional maintenance.
Pros
Wet/Dry Filtration
Replacement cartridges and very reasonably priced
Great price for features
Cons
Not as flexible with putting other filter media with lack of space
Fluval’s Power C filter series is a high end power filter with quality at all three stages. The first stage is a dual stage mechanical filtration chamber. the first stage is a more coarse foam that is reusable and the the second stage is a finer poly layer that is disposable. The second stage is a chemical media chamber. Well it is limited in space, it is a quality stage even when working with Fluval’s stock carbon.
The third stage is what I really like. It has a wet/dry section for biological media. This brings me back to the old Second Nature WD power filters. For use old timers, the WD was considered one of the finest power filters in its heyday as it had it’s own separate wet dry chamber. I’m so happy to see that Fluval is implementing this lost style of filtration on this power filter. Adding in a cleaning indictator, which tells you when you need to clean out your mechanical stages this is a very comprehensive package.
It is on the more expensive side for a power filter, but if you can budget up it is a solid consideration. If it is out of your budget, strongly consider Fluval’s parent company, Hagen, and their Aquaclear offering — which I reviewed earlier.
Pros
Dual stage mechanical filtration
Cleaning indicator
Wet/Dry biological chamber
Cons
More expensive than other options
Fine stage mechanical filter will get used up quickly
6. Aqueon Quietflow – 5 Stage Unit That’s Great For First Timers
The Aqueon quietflow power filter is a very common power filter that you will see at fish stores these days. They come with a lot of kits, and I’m actually happier to see these around more than the Whisper Power Filters I used to see (I don’t recommend Whispers – more on that later).
The Aqueon filter provides a 5 stage filtration system with the plastic grids on the filter acting as the biological media. While I find that unusual, it works and it keeps separate from the filter bag. The filter bad has mechanical and chemical filtration in one and is fairly reasonable to replace. Because Aqueon is a big name brand around fish stores, it is really easy to find replacement parts and replacement cartridges. Aqueon also supplies you with a 3 year warranty – a testament to Aqueon’s quality engineering over the years.
You will see a recurring theme here for power filters in that they are loud. The Aqueon is no exception. In my personal experience, it tends to be on the louder side and they tend to be on the low gallons per hour side. It’s a quality filter and great for first timers, especially with the LED that tells you when to replace the cartridge.
Pros
3 year warranty
LED tells you when it’s time to replace filter cartridge
The Marineland Emperor Biowheel is an upgrade version of the Penguin Biowheel that has a number of improved features. The biggest difference is that the emperor filters have a chamber for you to place optional media. It still is limited so you can’t use bulker media, but it does address the main issue of the Penguin models. The Emperors use a larger biowheel, which means you have even more biological filtration available and a slightly better built wheel an axel. Emperors also have a higher flow rate than the pegiun biowheels.
You get these upgrades for an increase price putting this in the premium category of power filters. There is a smaller Emperor 280 model available, but it still is too large for smaller tanks like 20 gallon tanks. Overall, this is a pretty comprehensive power filter.
Aquatop has been getting more popular at the local fish stores and I’m not really sure how I feel about it. The PF Power Filterhas a number of good features like a surface skimmer and their included UV Sterilizer. The UV is not powerful, but will work very well to keep your water from turning green. When you consider that it comes with a sterilizer, the price isn’t that bad as a total package.
However, I’m not a fan of the filter media cartridge. It’s an all in one cartridge, which means you are removing some quality biological media when you replace it. The UV is not a high end parasite killing sterilizer. Except the lowest end of sterilization, which is clarification (your water will look amazing though). If you are worried about green water problems and can’t afford or work with a stand alone UV sterilizer, this would be a power filter to consider.
Pros
Surface skimmer
UV is a good clarifier
Cons
Harder to find filter media cartridges
Low quality UV
Replacing the cartridge = removing biological filtration
Our Recommendation
There are a lot of power filters out on the market and a number of these are quality built. However, two power filters here really stand out as the best aquarium power filter on this list.
These two filters would be the Hagen Aquaclear and the Seachem Tidal. The Aquaclear is a very versatile and reliable power filter that has stood the test of time and it’s large capacity lets you put whatever you want in it. You only have to worry about replacing chemical media with it. The Seachem Tidal is essentially an upgraded Aquaclear. It has amazing premium features and the out of the box media is great. I would recommend the Aquaclear if your budget is smaller and the Tidal if you can spend a little more for the extra features.
Maintenance
Cleaning a power filter is really easy to do. This is what makes them more attractive than Canister filters (aside from price). If your filter has a filter bag, you simply need to remove it and replace with a new one. If the filter bag has a carbon section in it, you will want to wash it off before putting it into the filter. For sponges, you simply need to take your aquarium water and wash it in the water.
Here is a good video from Chewy’s Bro Aquatics showing how to clean an Aquaclear filter:
Other things you will want to clean out routinely will be the pipes and the impeller motor. You will want a bottle brush/pipe cleaner to clean pipes. These can be used to clean the inside of the impeller chamber of the pump as well.
Carbon media will need to replaced at least once per month. Biological media you should never need to replace.
Closing Thoughts
This was a nice throwback to me to go back to power filters and move into the freshwater side of things. I hope this guide helps you make an informed decision when purchasing a power filter for your aquarium. All these filters are quality filters. Chose the one that fits with your budget and aquarium needs. Thanks for reading :).
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
Flow is one of the most underrated factors in reef keeping, and wavemakers are where I see beginners and experienced hobbyists alike make expensive mistakes. I’ve run powerheads and wavemakers in my 125-gallon reef across several brands, and the difference in coral polyp extension and detritus suspension is very real. Getting the right flow pattern matters as much as the GPH rating. Here’s what I’ve found works best.
Are you struggling with finding a quality aquarium wavemaker?
In this blog, we share the best wavemaker offerings, from no wire in tank products to gyres. Even some that can run off your phone!
With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in overcoming their water flow woes. I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the best aquarium wavemaker on the market.
I have listed a lot of wave maker choices that fit multiple budgets and needs, but you may be wondering what we suggest. Since everyone needs are different, we have the following recommendations based on the criteria below:
Best Aquarium Wave Maker For Budgets – Hydor Koralia
All these wave makers meet several of the factors I was desiring (more on that further in the article), but not all (as a wave maker that does meet these all would be expensive!). I’ll go through each aquarium wave maker listed below and provide you with the in-depth details below.
If you are looking to do a professional looking aquarium setup whether fresh or saltwater, the EcoTech MP Series Wavemakers are the wave makers to look for. EcoTech’s patented mag drive technology supplies power to the wave maker outside of the aquarium. This means that this is the ONLY wave maker on the market that has the wire outside of the fish tank. This is an amazing feature for someone looking to have an extremely clean and professional looking aquarium with no wires in the aquarium.
It’s not just the wire, but the features of the MP Wave maker that makes this a great buy. The wave maker is loaded with various wave making settings and pairs easily with a controller or independently off EcoTech’s new Mobius system. EcoTech also sells their own power outage supply solution that will power the MP Series for several days in the event of a power outage. That’s one comprehensive package!
You can have all this for one hefty price. Next to the MaxSpect Gyre, this is one of the most expensive wave makers on the list. EcoTech also snubs you with a 1 year warranty. Really something this expensive should have a 2 to 3 year warranty.
Given its unique features however, it not hard to see what many professional installers and custom aquarium makers turn to this when it comes to making a showstopping fish tank.
Pros
Wire is outside of the aquarium – ideal for professional level setups
Lots of control with Reef Link or Aquarium Controller
Has it’s own power outage solution available
Cons
Very expensive!
Only a 1 year warranty
Best For: Saltwater Aquariums and high end freshwater systems
The IceCap Gyre is the first gyre pump on the list. What is a gyre you say? A gyre is a water pump that is based on crossflow technology. Compared to traditional powerheads or wave makers, a gyre pump provides superior wave generating performance.
The result of a gyre is that there are virtually no dead spots, evenly distributed water flow in the aquarium, and water moves back and forth to create full circulation or a “gyre.”
The Ice Cap gyre is an entry level model. It starts off at a pretty reasonable price given that the icecap 2K model and easily handle a 36″ fish tank. It comes with a controller and there is an IceCap battery backup system that works well with it so you have a ready made solution for a power outage ready to go.
The main disadvantage of a gyre over an aquarium wave maker is they require more maintenance to keep in optimal running shape. They are pretty big as well compared to a tiny wave maker. They are louder than some of the wave maker on the list. If noise isn’t an issue, this is a value water circulation system that is worth a look. See full review.
Pros
Great innovative technology that eliminates dead spots
Great value as even a 2K gyre can handle a 36″ long fish tank
Readily available power back up solution available
Cons
Big and bulky
Requires more maintenance
Louder than other wave makers on this list
Best For: Saltwater Aquariums
3. Jebao SOW Series Flow Pump – Value Priced and Silent
The Jebao SOW Wave Maker Flow Pump is the newest model DC wavemaker from Jebao. There are various other models from Jebao so I have listed the most recent edition. The main feature of the SOW Flow Pump is the Sine Wave technology. What is the Sine Wave technology? Sine Wave makes the DC converter more stable and as a result the pump generates less noise. This new model from Jabeo truly competes with the name brand wave makers on the list with a nearly unbeatable price and dead silent operation.
The controller has a lot of wave maker options and a feed mode. Jabeo also sells a ready made battery backup so you are good to go with a complete battery backup solution.
The main disadvantage with these Jabeo pumps is their reputation. The past models are not the most reliable with pumps burning out early and the controllers often failing. If you can purchase the unit with an extended warranty, it’s highly recommended that you do that. The silver lining is these wave makers are fairly cheap for a DC wavemaker so some hobbyist do consider these disposable.
Pros
Sine Wave tech makes these VERY quiet
Lots of features on the controller
Great price
Cons
Jabeo reputation
Best For: Saltwater Aquariums
4. Current USA eFlux – Integrates With Loop LED and Dead Silent!
We start off this list with a great entry by Current USA and their EFlux Wavemakers. The Current USA EFlux comes in several options from a flow rate of 660 gallons per hour all the way up to a flow rate of 2100 gallons per hour. The main feature here is that they are part of Current’s Loop system, which are integrated with each other. It works seamlessly with the Current USA’s Best Reef LED offering – the Loop LEDs.
I have personally used this system and can attest to their extremely quiet operation. My experience with Current USA has also been top notch with them going out of their way on warranty claims. The price isn’t that bad either! You can either purchase the EFlux with the controller or in the EFlux accessory wave pump package which comes without a controller.
So what is there not to like? Well, the wave maker options are pretty limited. It only comes with 3 wave maker modes, stream, pulse, and gyre. Gyre can only be used if you pair it with another EFlux wave maker and the manifold will only support 3 wave makers so this can be a problem for larger fish tanks or high water flow setups. Overall, this is a great first entry on the list!
Pros
Integrates with Current USA Loop LED for an all in one controller
Current USA’s customer service is top notch
VERY Quiet
Cons
Limited wave maker options
Gyre mode only works with 2 pumps synced together
Manifold only supports 3 wave makers
Best For: Saltwater Aquariums
5. Hydor Koralia – Great Choice, Reliable and Cheap
The Hydor Koralia Wavemaker was and still is a very popular wave maker. It was the original wave maker on the market that brought about many of these other units. It is a trusted wave maker by many old school reefkeepers. It has only become less popular with the explosion of DC powered wave makers and all their controllable features. It is still very much considered as a nano aquarium circulation pump.
The Hydor Koralia wave maker uses proven AC technology. It’s really a plug and forget system with how long the model has been around. It has the ability to adjust 180 degrees, which beats out many competitor wave makers that can only adjust up and down. This is a great option if you are planning to place a wave maker in the corner of an aquarium.
Because it’s not a DC wave maker, it lacks a lot of the controllable features of them. However, Hydor also had one of the first wave maker controller accessories. If you purchase their wavemaker controller, you will have the control you want with the AC reliability. My only complaint if you purchase the wave maker and the controller is that is louder than some DC wave makers like the Current USA. I usually deal with noise levels being a major factor for installs. It’s the main reason I do not use them for residential installs.
Pros
Attractive price
Proven AC technology
180 degree adjust-ability
Cons
Not controllable on its own
Louder than some DC pumps
Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums
6. Fluval Sea CP – Hagen Finally Gets Serious About The Marine Hobby
Hagen, the parent company of Fluval has been a big name brand in the freshwater industry for decades. When they got serious about saltwater aquarium keeping with their new Fluval Sea brand, the industry started listening. The Fluval Sea CP Wavemakers are Fluval’s first serious dive into a competent wavemaker that works for saltwater tanks. It has the trusted European engineering that we all know and love from Hagen and the great prices that go with Hagen’s extremely vast network of distribution.
This is also the first AC powered wavemaker on the list. AC powered wavemakers in general can be more reliable than DC powered aquarium wavemakers because the technology has been well established and there are less failure points to consider when you just plug a wavemaker in without a power supply or controller.
The main thing I will shame Hagen for is using a suction cup. A magnet suction cup base would have been well appreciated. As with most AC wavemakers, there are no adjustable functions or modes, so you will have to purchase a separate wavemaker accessory to get adjustability with it.
Pros
Hagen brand name
Great price
AC powered = proven reliable technology
Cons
Uses a regular suction cup instead of a magnet suction cup base
Bulky
Not adjustable or controllable (unless you purchase a wavemaker controller)
Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums
7. Maxspect Gyre XF Series – The Advanced Gyre for Advanced Reefers
The Maxspect Gyre XF Series is the newest 3rd generation Gyre. This new generation gyre has been re-engineered so there are less parts and more intuitive assembly for easier maintenance. The most noticeable upgrade to these new gyres have detachable water flow directors that allow you to place the pump closer to the surface of the aquarium. These gyres still work with the CV6 controller from CoralVue so if you are looking to upgrade your previous version you don’t have to purchase another controller.
This is a gyre loaded with features, which is expected from a premium level product. It commands a premium level price tag. It’s worth the money if you are building a high end system.
Sicce is best known for their protein skimmer pumps. Their skimmer pumps are the gold industry in the saltwater aquarium community. These Sicce Voyager Wavemakers are made of the same engineering quality of the famous skimmer pumps.
The Italian made pump results is an extremely reliable pump that will last years in your aquarium. It also has the added advantage of being AC powered pump, which makes it will lack the failure points of a controller or power supply. Sicce also sells a Wave Surfer accessory, which will give you the added control-ability that you would get with a DC aquarium wave maker.
Because you are working with a high quality Italian maker, there is an added cost for this pump. It is the most expensive AC wavemaker on the list, but you can assure yourself that you will get years of reliable service with this wavemaker. Outside of that, I personally think they look a little ugly and bulky, but I believe most people will see past that.
Pros
Italian made quality and engineer
AC powered = more reliability
Sicce makes their own aquarium wave maker accessory for extra controllability
Cons
Bulky and ugly looking
Expensive for an AC wavemaker
Best For: Freshwater/Saltwater Aquariums
9. SunSun JVP – Cheap, cheap, and CHEAP! The cheapest choice for those on a budget!
If you are looking for a wave maker that is dirt cheap, the SunSun JVP Wavemakers are what you are looking for. Easily the cheapest aquarium wave maker on the list. The SunSun JVP wake maker is so cheap, I have no clue how the manufacturer even makes money on these when you add in shipping costs. Regardless, these are powerful and cheap wavemakers and are well suited for those on tight budgets.
These are offered in a few GPH (gallons per hour) options, and several packages you will see online will actually come with 2 units, which is great knowing that you should expect these units not to last. The pumps are so cheap, you can nearly disregard the durability concerns. I still wouldn’t personally use them on my display tanks, but I do use them for my mixing stations and when making water changes. Their value really can’t be beat.
Pros
Insanely cheap
Powerful flow rate with lots of GPH (gallons per hour) options
Cons
Chinese quality = expect them not to last
Loud compared to other wavemakers on this list
Suction cup instead of magnet
Best For: Mixing stations and budget aquariums
10. Tunze Nanostreams – The Most Reliable On The Market.
Would you like to purchase an aquarium wave maker and never worry about it for the next 10 years? That is how anything Tunze designed is made and these Tunze Nanostreams are no exception. With the explosion of cheap Chinese made pumps flooding our aquarium industry, Tunze has quietly designed the most reliable and functional wavemaker on the market. The design is so well made, they haven’t even bothered to release a new generation model in ages!
Tunze is simply the Eheim of the saltwater industry. Well known for creating products that last the test of time. They just do not market a lot, but anyone with years in the industry can attest to their name brand quality.
This particular model comes equipped with it’s own controller that provides a good amount of functionality. The wavemaker itself can rotate a full 180 degrees just like the Hydor. If you want to go with DC power, Tunze sells a DC Nanostream Version as well that is even more powerful and feature rich. It’s really too bad that EcoTech has that patent on their mag drive tech because Tunze’s reliability is way better.
That really is my only gripe with these pumps. They look old because they haven’t been updated in ages and the wire is inside the aquarium. They are big and bulky and easily show in your aquarium. Tunze does sell a rock mount accessory, but it doesn’t mean much as you still have to figure out what to do with the wire inside the fish tank.
This is the most reliable pump maker period. If you want a pump to last forever, get a Tunze. You will thank me later.
Pros
Incredible reliability
Highly adjustable control
360 adjustability
AC or DC powered versions available
Cons
Big and bulky looking
Expensive
Best For: Saltwater Aquariums
Factors to Consider When Buying (Our Criteria)
It can be overwhelming to find the right aquarium wave maker for you. I have compiled a list of the best ones in the market using the following criteria:
Price – Some wavemakers are extremely cheap while others are very expensive.
Warranty – A manufacturer that makes a reliable wave maker backs up their aquarium wave makers with a solid warranty.
Durability – What are the field tested stories of these units. Have they been running for years or do they break every 6 months. If they break easily, are they cheap enough for you to consider disposable?
Safety – This is not so much of a concern with AC powered wave makers, but DC powered wave makers have their own power supply. You will want to make sure the power supply has a water tight seal at the connect point and that the unit has either a ETL or UL rated. ETL or UL rating ensures that your insurance covers an accident that may occur.
How To Install
Wave makers are extremely easy to install. Depending on whether you have a suction cup model or a magnetically attached model the install with differ slightly. With suction cups, you simple stick them to the aquarium glass/acrylic. They may have a knob or tab you can use to add in additional suction power, but that is really all there is to it.
For magnets, it’s even easier as you stick the dry side magnet on the outside of the aquarium and put the wet side magnet on the inside of the fish tank. Once the wet and dry end do their thing, all you need to do to adjust the height of the wave maker is to hold the dry and wet side as you move the wave maker to the position you desire.
Now choosing the best location for your aquarium wave maker is a bit of a complex topic. I’m going to focus on saltwater aquariums since water flow matters so much for corals. Here is a wonderful video from Current USA explaining the best position and flow to use with corals in a reef aquarium:
Benefits of Use
You may have seen traditional powerheads at your local fish store or pet chain store, so let’s talk about why you should consider a wave maker over a powerhead.
Natural Water Flow
An aquarium wavemaker produces a more natural looking flow pattern that replicates nature. A traditional powerhead is a sharper and fixed stream of flow that can be disruptive to fish or corals. It’s easier to get good water movement at the waterline with a wavemaker, which will work to eliminate surface scum that can accumulate at the top of the waterline.
Ideal for Corals and Invertebrates In Your Saltwater Tank
Corals in a reef tank demand variable as well as consistent flow. Some of them demand a rather high amount of flow that you are only going to get with a wave maker. You can easily purchase wave makers that can produce a flow rate of over 2,500 gallons per hour of flow with various settings. These settings are made to replicate nature and make your corals thrive. Invertebrates such as anemones will also benefit from the flow from these wave makers.
Eliminates Dead Spots
Wavemakers like Gyres are ideal for removing dead spots due to their design of covering all levels of the fish tank. You can also achieve this with multiple wavemakers. In freshwater, this ensures that oxygen is evenly distributed in the fish tank. In saltwater, this ensures constant flow and prevents detritus and cyanobacteria from growing in dead spots.
Ideal Power Outage Solutions for Larger Tanks
We do not like talking about it, but being prepared for a power outage is a big deal as it is one of the major reasons for a tank crash. In larger fish tanks, battery powered air pumps will not get the job done completely. This is where a DC powered wavemaker comes into play. Because they use so little power, they can be hooked to uninterrupted power supplies (UPS) and run for several hours. Some manufacturers actually make their power outage solutions, allowing the unit to run for several days!
Different Types
If you are new to the hobby, you may be confused what are the different types of pumps and why they so different. There are actually 4 types of aquarium pumps in the hobby and not all are suited for wavemaking:
Filtration Pumps – These are the pumps you will usually see on power filters. They are designed to create a high water pressure stream and have an impeller to resist back pressure. It has a higher energy consumption demand. As a stand alone pump, it is not suited for wavemaking
Circulation Pumps – Also known as return pumps or an aquarium flow pump. These pumps are made to pump water from one area to another. For example, from a sump to a main display tank. They are made to be placed on the bottom of a sump or externally depending on the model. They are not right for wavemaking
Powerheads – These are the traditional powerheads of old. These are what us old timers used to use. They produce a narrow, high pressure water flow. They sometimes come with diffusers to soften the water blast and they are not suited to be controlled with a wavemaker controller that would turn it on and off. They are also notorious for sucking up small fish because of their design. Some powerheads like the MJ1200are extremely reliable units.
AC vs DC – Knowing the Differences
Before we go over all the wavemakers, I should explain the differences between AC and DC Wavemakers. AC wavemakers are based on old technology and are really plug and play. The big name brands like Fluval and Hydor, built their AC wavemakers on high quality and proven parts and engineering. This means AC wavemakers are extremely reliable and less prone to failure. On the budget side of things, AC wavemakers are going to be cheaper than DC wavemakers. For large fish tanks, they will be louder and they will consume more energy. They may not be ideal as a power outage solution because of the power needed to run them.
DC Wavemakers are the new technology on the block. They offer decreased energy consumption, which is a big deal for larger fish tanks and reef tanks that require a ton of flow. They can produce more gallons per hour than most AC wavemakers and for the most part they can be more silent – to the point of being dead quiet. They have the ability to be programmed with controllers and many come with their own. These controllers provide a ton of customizable options for aquarists.
However, with all this new tech comes reliability issues. Many DC wavemakers unfortunately are made and built in China. This can provide several quality control issues, especially with budget DC wavemakers. DC Wavemakers have three failure points vs. one for an AC wavemaker. With DC wavemakers you have the controller, powersupply, and motor all as failure points. With AC wavemakers, all you have to worry about is the motor giving out.
What Do You Feel Are the Ideal Units?
I hope after this article you are able to see why wavemakers are superior to powerheads and what are the best wavemakers available. There is a best aquarium wave maker for everyone depending on your wants and budget. All of these can work for freshwater aquariums all the way up to reef tanks. Please let us know in the comments your thoughts about which wavemakers have worked for you. Thanks for reading.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
An RODI unit was one of the best investments I made for my reef. tap water was the silent cause of my early nuisance algae problems, and switching to 0 TDS RO/DI water made a measurable difference within weeks. I’ve used several systems over the years and know what matters: membrane quality, DI resin capacity, and GPD output relative to your tank’s evaporation rate. Here’s what I recommend after years of making top-off water for a 125-gallon reef.
For those of us who who are going into reef keeping, a Reverse Osmosis Deionization (or RODI System) is essential for successfully keeping sensitive corals and inverts. Many of us start out with smaller tanks and purchasing RODI or fresh saltwater from our local fish store. While this will work for a time, once you get into larger tanks an RODI system is essential for success because you need more water to replace your evaporated water in your display tank and you will be conducting larger water changes. After a while, purchasing fresh saltwater will become expensive and risky in the event of an emergency.
Today’s post is all about awareness and providing options that work for a reef keeper. I will go through what is important to know when purchasing an RODI system, and go through several RODI systems that work for aquariums. Let’s get started :).
Why Do I Need A RODI System?
The main reason why a RODI water is so essential in a reef tank is because the water from our tap is loaded with impurities that will cause tons of nuisance algae blooms even when treated with water conditioners that you may be familiar with in freshwater systems.
The main measure we use in the hobby for contaminants in tap water is total dissolved solids or TDS. TDS is a measurement that comprises of inorganic salts and organic matter that are dissolved in the water you are using. A high amount of TDS in your source water will means that you are directly feeding nurtients that algae loves, which means you will have a never ending battle of nuisance algae.
The gold standard for reef tanks is 0 TDS. Most tap water is going to produce anywhere from 150 – 400 TDS (yes it varies A LOT depending on where you live). Using a Reverse Osmosis system alone will likely get you down to 10-20 TDS, which much better but still is not acceptable for a reef tank.
This is why you will need a multi-stage RODI unit that has a proper deionization stage that will get you all the way down to 0 TDS. It is also very common for your local fish store to sell fresh saltwater with TDS of 3-5, which can cause some issues. Knowing that the local fish stores often time will not sell true 0 TDS water is the primarily reason why I just purchase a quality RODI unit for my aquariums.
The Best RODI System for Aquarium, Reef Tanks
Now that I explained why an RODI system is so essential, let’s talk about what are the best RODI systems. I have used a number of brands and models over the years and installed several of these systems for clients. The list here are a collection of brands and models I would trust and I have included models from multiple price ranges and needs.
For those of you with larger tanks and with demanding tanks, the SpectraPure 5 Stage 180GPD MaxCap line offers the pinnacle of RODI filtration. This unit is equipped with two 99% rejection rate RO membranes. That’s two of the best membranes in the industry. This 5 stage unit is also equipped with pressure gauges, dual TDS meters, and an upgraded DI resin.
The resin for this unit is two part. The first part is their Mega MaxCap DI and the finishing stage is the Enduro DI. Together, you get DI resin that has 4 times the capacity of typical competitor mixed bed DI cartridges. This unit runs so efficient you get a 2:1 waste ratio rate which will outperform nearly all RODI units on this list that will only produce a 3:1 waste ratio. This means you will save a little bit on water as well!
You would think that a con would be that this isn’t a 6 stage unit, but this RODI filter simply doesn’t need it as it runs that well. The only con here is you have to pay for the performance since as these command a premium price.
Great for: Large Reef Tanks
Pros
The membrane!
4x more effective than most DI out there
180 GPD
Cons
Price
2. LiquaGen 5 Stage Unit – With All The Necessities
Not on our list is a 5 stage RODI system from LiquaGen that offers all the main features I kept putting cons for others on this list. This system has everything you will need to make 0 TDS water. It comes with a flush valve to extend the life of your membranes, a pressure gauge to ensure you water pressure is ideal, and a TDS meter so you know when you change your DI Resin.
This unit does command a higher price tag compared to the other budget models on this list, but it has everything you need. There is an option on the product page to go without the TDS meter and pressure gauge for a big discount, but having everything pre-installed is a time saver.
The unit only comes with a garden hose adapter. You may need to purchase additional accessories for a under the sink install. This is the best performance for dollar on the list
Great For:Large Reef Tanks
Pros
Has everything you need for 0 TDS water
Universal chambers and membrane fittings
Flush valve!
Cons
Price
Only comes with a garden hose adapter
3. Aquatic Life RO Buddie – The Choice for College Students, Nano Reefers, and Apartment Residents
For those of you with small tanks, college students, and those who live in apartments, the Aquatic Life RO Buddie is the perfect choice for you! This unit comes in 50, 100, and 150 gallon per day options and all three options are very well priced. It is a compact unit that can easily be moved wherever you need without having to worry about permanently installing it someplace.
Because it is a mobile RODI system, it is a bare bones unit. There is no pressure gauge, no TDS meter, and no flush valve. It also only comes with a garden hose adapter. Filters are also not universal so you’ll have to purchase Aquatic Life filter replacements.
Great for: Nano Tanks, college students, and apartment residents
AquaFX is a long-standing manufacturer of RODI units for aquariums so the name brand is there. The main attraction is the simple build of the RODI unit and the 100 gallons per day (100 GPD) rating. Usually with budget units, you will have a GPD rating of 75 or less so this is a nice touch and you have the comfort of purchasing a unit that is from a maker that specializes in aquarium equipment.
With a budget unit, you usually have a few components missing however. The unit does not come with a TDS meter, so you either have to purchase a TDS meter or you will need to eye ball your RODI chamber for when the color starts changing. A flush valve is not included. A flush helps extend the life of the RO membrane and knowing how pricey these are to replace, getting the most life out of it is something you will want to maximize. There is also only a garden hose included in this package.
The Kleanwater RODI is a very well priced RODI unit that can fulfill the needs of most reefers. It is a 4 stage RODI unit equipped with a pressure gauge and a TDS meter, which ensures you will always have 0 TDS water.
This is a very well priced unit, but it is missing a flush valve that would extend the life of the RO membrane. Other than that, it would be the perfect 4 stage unit
Because this unit is made by Marine Depot, they offer a 15% discount on replacement filters for as long as you own the unit. Depending on how long you plan to stay in the hobby, that can save you a lot of money over time.
Great For: Display Tanks Over 55 Gallons
Pros
Good price
15% off filters for life!
Brand name
Cons
No flush valve
6. SpectraPure MaxCap – Name Brand and The Highest Quality Membranes Available!
Spectrapure is the name of choice when it comes to Reef Aquarium RODI units. This Company out of Arizona has been producing high-end RODI units with the best components in the market for many years now. So what makes them so great?
The main thing that SpectraPure offers is their membranes. Their membranes are far and above the best on the market with a 99% rejection ratethat sets the industry standard for contaminate removal and membrane longevity. There is no RODI maker on the the market for in this industry that can offer this level of filtration.
SpectraPure’s primary 4 stage offering is the SpectraPure MaxCap RODI. Rated at 90 gallons per day, this unit has enough of a production rate to handle most reef systems. What you are getting with this brand is higher quality filtration stages. The membrane is the best in class and the maxcap carbon cartridge and silica buster DI are great features of the system. The maxcap systems are excellent for long life and insane pure water. Other brands will try to stuff other features or stages into their units, but this 4 stage unit has high end components that will easily compete with 5 and 6 stage units.
It’s a pricey system, but if you want the brand in the business, Spectrapure is where you need to go.
Great for: Large Reef Tanks
Pros
Best RO membrane on the market
Stellar reputation in the industry
Outperform cheaper made 5 and 6 stage units
Cons
Price
No TDS Meter
No flush valve
7. LiquaGen 0 TDS 6 Stage – The Most Comprehensive 6 Stage Unit On The List!
Looking for better than a 5 stage unit? This 6 stage RODI package from LiquaGen delivers! This is a complete 6 stage RODI system that includes a flush valve, pressure gauge, and TDS meter. Those are basic features that you get with this unit. It gets better though! This package comes with a booster pump that drives the gallons per day production to 150 gallons per day. That is the highest GPD rating on the list! This is the ultimate in filtration for those with high demand tanks, large reef tanks, and high TDS water.
The cons here? Well, you get what you pay for. It has a premium price tag attached to it. It like all LiquaGen filters, only comes with a garden hose adapter
Great For: Large Reef Tanks and bad source water
Pros
Booster pump included
6 stage RODI with all the essential features
150 gallons per day!
Cons
Expensive
Only a garden hose is included for install
8. Fountainhead Water Systems – A Well Balanced, Comprehensive Offering!
The Fountainhead Water Systems RO/DI System is a comprehensive unit that offers a 6 stage filtration for a great price! This unit is loaded with all the necessary stages of a great 6 stage setup. Foundationhead water systems is not an aquarium specialized filtration, but a water filtration company that sells filtration units for homes. This unit is a variant that works that for reef tanks. They are an American based company there systems are American Made.
The are two flaws that I see with this unit, but both are easy to upgrade. A pressure valve and TDS meter is not included. If you upgrade your purchase with these two accessories, this is a perfect 6 stage unit for a incredible price!
Great For: Large Reef Tanks and bad source water
Pros
Great price!
6 stage system with universal RODI cartridges
Multiple install option accessories included
Cons
No Pressure Valve Include
No TDS Meter included
9. IceCap Smart 4 Stage – A High End Unit Made for Reefers
The IceCap 4 Stage RODI unit is a high end RODI system made for reefers. The main feature this system has smart controller that offers an impressive range of features. The main feature is a timer mode, that prevents you from overflowing your wash room in the event you forget to turn off your unit. A booster pump is included, which is a substantial feature if you have a low water pressure residence. It has a 3 point TDS meter which measures before the filter, after the membrane stage, and after the DI stage. It’s easily the most accurate and high system on this list.
It also commands a premium level price. This is the most expensive RODI system on the list and it’s only a 4 stage not a 6 stage unit. You get what you pay for though!
I determined based on multiple factors that the SpectraPure MaxPure series the best in the industry. But how did I determine that?
When it comes to RO/DI systems, there are A LOT of choices and the prices can get insane. You do not have to purchase the most expensive RO/DI unit out there. What you need to purchase is one that works for you. With that, it’s important you know what components make the best RO/DI systems.
Multi-Stage Units
This is the first must of any system. You will want an RO/DI unit that works through at minimum a 4 stage process. I’ll explain the process as illustrated by AquaFX below:
Most multistage systems will start with a sediment filter and carbon block as the first two stages of the system. A sediment filter removes silts and other large particulate matter that would clog the later stages and dirty up your water. The carbon block then removes organics with with chlorine and chloramines, which would damage the RO membrane.
The water is then moved to the RO membrane. This is the workhorse of the RODI system. Most RODI systems will remove 95% of impurities out of the tap water. These impurities would include things like salt, bacteria, heavy metals, and other organics that would be harmful to your livestock. Some membranes like Spectrapures, are even a higher quality and can remove up to 99% or impurities, but 95% is the typical standard.
You get to the final stage which is the deionization stage. this cartridge will remove the last of the impurities of the water giving you that 0 TDS gold standard source water that we as reefers look for.
This is your standard 4 stage RODI unit. There are others that will go 5 or 6 stages. Personally, the main upgrade I would be looking for would be multiple DI stages for stable 0 TDS as the the DI stage gets exhausted. A 6 stage system flowchart is shown below so you can see how these higher end systems work.
How To Setup
The most annoying thing I always found when purchasing these expensive units is the lack of instructions on how to go about installing one. Most people are likely going to install this unit in their wash room, so the best example to go off of is a video by Taylor Nicole Dean as she shows how to install this RODI system using a garden hose adapter.
Here’s an another video of a garage install from Reefbum. They installed an Spectrapure MaxCap Unit:
How Much Water Pressure Is Necessary?
In some homes, your water pressure may be too low for an RODI system to function properly. The RO water pressure gauge on your RODI unit will let you know if you have drops in water pressure. The main thing you want to watch out for is if your water pressure is below 50 PSI. RODI system work optimally at around 60 PSI. If your water line is pushes only say 30 PSI, you may want to consider an RO booster pump or checking your filter lines for clogs.
Maintaining Your Unit
Each stage of your RODI filters need to replaced in order to keep your system in optimial operation. If the system is not maintained regularly, the RODI system can produce less water and TDS could actually leak through the system. The great thing about RODI systems is they last for forever, being one of the most reliable systems and mainstays in your tank operations.
Sediment Prefilter
The ROD sediment prefilter needs to be replaced every six months or sooner for areas with higher TDS water (over 400).
Carbon Cartridges
With a used cartridge, your membrane will end up doing more work and may even develop bacterial growth in the chamber. This should be replaced every six months.
Reverse Osmosis Membranes
The workhorse of the system, this is the most important thing to change in your RODI unit aside from the DI resin. Usually these will need to be replaced every 9-12 months, but sometimes can go longer with a flush kit being used and cleaner source water. The best way to gauge this is to see what TDS is come out of the membrane stage. If you are getting a much higher number than what you are used to seeing, it may be time to replace the membrane. Dow Filmtec membranes and Spectrapure RO membranes are the best in the business. Just check with your RODI manufacturer to ensure they fit if you go with them.
Deionization Cartridge
The final stage of your system is the easiest to gauge when you need to change. This is because most resin you purchase will change color over time. You can also read your TDS meter and consider changing your DI resin once your TDS meter is reading 1-2 TDS. It will depend on your source water and rejection rate as to how long these will last. There are several DI resin available on Amazon with Lanxess DI Resin being the most consistent with reviews and they also ship fastest. SpectraPure Resin is considered the best in the business, but it’s most preferred to order them directly from them for the best price.
Closing Thoughts
I hope this blog post helps with deciding what RODI system works best for your needs and budget. Every unit I listed here serves a purpose for every tank setup and budget. You will not be disappointed with any of the filters on this list. These systems will delivery quality 0 TDS water and will offer years of service. I look forward to hearing about your success in the hobby with these excellent units. If you are shopping around for more equipment, check out our Best Protein Skimmer Reviews post so you can pick out a quality skimmer for your system. Thanks for reading.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
I’ve set up saltwater aquarium equipment and tanks at almost every budget level. from a modest starter system to a full SPS-dominant 125-gallon reef. and the equipment decisions that hurt people most are almost never the big-ticket items. It’s the corners cut on lighting, skimming, or flow that quietly derail a tank over months. After 25 years of seeing what works and what fails, I know exactly where to spend and where the cheaper option is perfectly fine.
Saltwater aquarium equipment is where most new reefers get burned. not by making one expensive mistake, but by making five medium-sized ones chasing shiny gear they didn’t need. I’ve been setting up and tearing down reef tanks for over 25 years, I’ve personally tested hundreds of pieces of equipment, and I run a sponsor-free site, which means I can tell you what actually works without worrying about whose product I’m pushing. The reality is that for most of the gear categories in a reef tank. skimmers, return pumps, heaters, lighting. there’s a gold-standard option and a budget option that performs at 80-90% of the quality for half the price. This guide maps out both for every major equipment category so you can decide where to spend and where to save.
I won’t lie to you…
Saltwater Aquarium Equipment is Expensive!
With the added marketing efforts and push towards high tech and cool looking saltwater aquarium equipment, it’s easy to find equipment like LED lighting costing over $800 that just covers a 2×2 space. Where does this madness end! It’s easy to get scared away from forums, the LFS, and big equipment e-stores telling you the cheap stuff is junk and doesn’t last.
I’m here today to help guide you show you the gold standard in the industry and the cheaper alternative that can literally save you hundreds even thousands of dollars.
I will pull out no stops here and will throw out equipment I don’t even carry for the sake if saving you dollar bills. The way I see it, if I can supply you with alternatives for the high end saltwater aquarium equipment the more money you will have to enjoy the hobby! We will use a standard 4 foot 120 gallon reef tank equipment setup as our example.
RODI Systems
This is the heart of a larger tank setup. Lots of water top off and the ability to store water when you need it in a pinch is a really big deal when you are running a larger saltwater aquarium and reef tank.
Best RODI System
The SpectaPure MaxCap RODI System is the top of its class when it comes to a high end RODI system. With the best membrane rejection rate on the market and quality construction this is the unit to purchase if money is not an issue.
Cheap RODI System But Still Reef Worthy – LiquaGen 5 Stage RODI
The Spectra Pure RODI System commands a premium price tag of several hundred dollars. That’s not exactly cheap. There are two alternatives I will provide here. The first is a similar 5 stage RODI System from LiquaGen. This system is easily half the cost of a comparable Spectrapure system and will do the job for many reefers out there.
The RODI Unit for Budget and Nano Reefers – LiquaGen 4 Stage RODI
For those with smaller tanks the Aquatic Life Portable Aquarium RODI 4 stage systemis a great solution to free you having to get RODI water from your LFS or distilled water from the grocery store. Nearly half the price of the 5 stage, this unit should be able to fit the smaller budgets of small tank builds and nano reefers.
Ah yes Protein Skimmers, the heart of the vast majority of successful reef tanks. They have been a staple of many saltwater aquariums. Unfortunately, they tend to get VERY expensive at the highest end levels. Fear not though, I have you covered.
Best Protein Skimmer
The Nyos Quantum 120 Protein Skimmer is definitely one of the best protein skimmers on the market. Sure there are some skimmers at this 120 gallon reef tank example size that can command a higher value and we are not over sizing in this case, but the Nyos has been the go to of one big YouTubers like FishofHex
Bubble Magus Curve – The Go-To Cheap Protein Skimmer
The Bubble Magus Curve Series has been the go to for a cheap protein skimmer for many years in the hobby. Well trusted, reliable, and works very well. it will serve you well in your system. It should be around half the cost of an equivalently rated Nyos skimmer.
Let’s talk about return pumps. This is a central piece of any reef system using a sump. I would argue next to a heater, it is the one major component of a reef system that you cannot afford to fail. When selecting a return pump, reliability and durability are above any feature a manufacturer can offer in my opinion.
Abyzz DC Controllable Pumps – Best DC Return Pump
If money is no object, the Abyzz DC Controllable Pumps are top of mind of the best things out there. It is a DC pump that is backed by a 10-year warranty. This German made DC pump puts out no stops when it comes to quality and the price shows. For the 120 gallon tank we are using as an example, the A100 is the model we are going to select and at a massive $1,499.99 price tag, this DC pump will provide years of worry free operation.
Reef Octopus VarioS – Cheap Aquarium DC Return Pump
The Reef Octopus VarioS series DC pumps offer a solid cheaper solution for a DC return pump. While it does not have the 10 year warranty, the VarioS pump does offer a 2 year warranty and has been often called the best value among DC return pumps on the market. In today’s market of high tech reef toys, the Varios DC return pump really focuses on quality and they provide a good mix of quality and value. I would definitely consider these over a Jabeo return pump.
Fluval Sea SP4 — We Are Going Old School!
Yes you are reading this correctly, an AC return pump. Now why would I put a this Fluval Sea SP4 AC Return Pump as the best value for cheapest and highest quality return pump for your sump? Well various reasons actually:
An AC pump has less failure points than a DC pump with only the motor and impeller. A DC pump can additionally fail on the controller and the power supply – of which both tend to fail quite frequently
An AC pump handles head pressure better than a DC pump, which means it is more worry free if you are using manifolds or having to restrict flow
The Fluval Sea SP4 is built off the the same tried and true tech of return pumps that have run in the field for over 10 years – the Askoll Motor Block
The Fluval Sea SP4 is made in Italy – no cheap Chinese parts
The Fluval Sea SP4 is backed by a solid 3 year warranty. At its entry level price point you can buy several Fluval SP4s and still have enough money for other equipment over an Abyzz
And flow if you are wondering is easily controlled by a gateor ball valve on an AC return pump. There are other very solid very durable options like a Danner Magnum Pump or Eheim Hobby Pump, but the Danner tends to be loud and the Eheim Hobby Pump does not produce enough GPH for it to be applicable to our 120 gallon tank example. The Fluval Sea SP4 completely crushes it with quiet operation, a solid Italian made pump, proven durable AC technology, and good looks. Get one today and forgot about it for the next 10 years – Askoll built pumps are that good!
Our last core piece of equipment we are going to touch on is Reef Led Lighting. This is a section where you can spend $1,000s of thousands on top end of lighting, but I’m going to show you a few alternative so you don’t break the bank.
EcoTech Marine Radions – Best Reef Tank Lighting System
There is a reason why top coral sellers like World Wide Corals rely on EcoTech Marine Radion. They are incredibility flexible in functionality and well built units and with the diffuser upgrade are able to handle heavy SPS coral reef tanks. If money is no concern for you on this 120 gallon example 2 Radion XR30w units will do the job and handle any coral build and is considered by many the best lighting system for a reef tank.
EcoTech Marine Radions – Cheap LED Reef Tank Lighting System
Ah the Chinese black box. While other sellers try to scare you away from them, the Mars Aqua LED Reef Aquarium lighting system offers a quality light that is fully capable of growing corals in a mixed reef system and even heavy SPS reef tank. They are ETL rated, which is considered an equivalent of UL rated. Two of 165W models will work for most reefs and two 300W could be considered for a heavier SPS setup. They are easily hundreds of dollars less than a Radion.
Another additional option would be the Evergrow LED Reef Lighting System. Evergrow models are the same lighting manufacturer used by Reefbreeder’s older generation models that have been well received by the reefing community.
What Other Picks Do You Recommend?
Have another piece of saltwater aquarium equipment that you would recommend? Leave a comment below. We’ll follow up with a part 2 in the future that will go over other key equipment so you can continue to save money and still buy quality equipment.
I skipped a quarantine tank when I first set up my reef. and I paid for it with a full-blown ich outbreak that took months to clear. It’s a lesson I only needed to learn once. Now a QT is non-negotiable for me before anything new goes into my display tank. The setup doesn’t have to be expensive or complicated, and I’ll show you exactly what I run and why it works.
The saltwater quarantine tank is the single most important thing most reef keepers skip. and the consequences usually show up when it’s too late. After 25 years in the saltwater hobby, I’ve seen this pattern more times than I can count: a new fish gets added directly to a display reef, introduces ich or marine velvet, and within weeks the whole tank is in crisis. Marine parasites are extremely common in the trade. assuming fish from even a reputable store are disease-free is a dangerous assumption. A proper quarantine tank lets you observe fish, treat them if needed, and protect everything you’ve built in your display. This guide covers everything you need to set one up and run it correctly.
Key Takeaways
Fish diseases are worse in saltwater fish with three being potential tank wipers – Marine Velvet, Brook, and Uroema
Probalaytic Quarantine is more common and accepted in marine fish vs freshwater fish
There are multiple methods you and use to quarantine fish – all with pros and cons
Why Do We Quarantine Our Fish?
I’m going to go off the cuff here and say that the primary reason for quarantine is recovery of your fish. Fish that you have picked up to from the local fish store or online have gone through a variety of channels to get to you. It is probably an understatement to say that if the fish has come to you and is wild caught it is within the top 25% of fish in the supply chain that made it out. Many fish die or get sick during capture and transplant.
Quarantining a fish allows the fish to destress and for you to have the fish adjust to your parameters, your food, and provides it a safe space for it to thrive away from more aggressive and established tank mates who can out compete it for food. Putting a fish directly into your display puts the fish in more stress and added stress events leads to our next reason for why we quarantine our fish.
Preventing Saltwater Fish Diseases Through Quarantine
A fish’s immune system should be able to fight off more infections and diseases, however the shock of transportation compromises your fish’s immune system leaving it vulnerable to any disease that gets shipped with it. Some of these diseases when they break out can be so deadly, they can wipe out your tank within days. So what are these deadly diseases? Well, I will tell you right now it’s not ich. Ich is child’s play compared to these three and they are becoming more and more common in the fish supply chain.
Three Deadly Fish Diseases
When you look up diseases, forum posts, or YouTube videos online you will come to MANY articles about ich. Ich this and Ich that. Now Ich is common and can kill your fish, but can be treated and in some cases your fish can simply recover from it. But these three diseases are 100% deadly, will wipe out your tank in days, and there are no known ways to treat these diseases with reef-safe medications (Sorry Kick Ich, Ich Attack, Ich Guard, Paraguard — this ain’t working on them).
Marine Velvet
It’s the most common saltwater fish disease of the Deadly Three. It looks like ich, but it is far more deadly. Sometimes it kills fish before they are even able to display symptoms. Marine Velvet MUST be treated in a quarantine tank/hospital tank and requires your main display to go fishless for 76 days to remove it from the display. It is probably the #2 reason for tank crashes in the hobby with heater failures being #1. The go-to treatments are Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate.
Uroema
The least common of the deadly 3 but considered the worst and hardest to treat. Chromis and Anthias are unfortunately the most prone to this disease, but it can spread to other fish. This particular disease is resistant to Copper and Choloroquine Phosphate, requiring higher than traditional dosages. It can also go into the internals of the fish and damage it further requiring other medication like Metro to add in internal treatment. Uroema is also a free living parasite which means it can exist without fish present in the tank. Once a fish has Uroema one should assume that the disease exists in the system. Talk about scary!
Brooklynella (AKA Clownfish Disease)
Brooklynella is a nasty disease that Clownfish and Anthias are unfortunately prone to. This is how it got it’s infamous nickname of Clownfish Disease. Brooklynella looks similar to velvet, which in my opinion is why it is safe safe to assume that your fish has either or when you observe it. Both Brooklynella and Marine Velvet can be treated with Copper and Chloroquine Phosphate. Further protection with Metro is recommended to protect the internals of the fish as Brooklynella can also go internal as well.
How To Isolate Fish –The Various Methods
So now we have discussed why we quarantine fish, now let’s discuss the types of QT and rate each one.
Deciding Not To Isolate
All the power to you if you want to go this route. The hobbyists most successful with this method have stellar local fish stores (LFS) around them that they have strong relationships. If the store can hold a fish for you for 2-4 weeks, you will have better success. However, finding a local fish store this stellar for most of us is a needle in a haystack. Personally, in my location I have had difficulty finding a good local fish store. Literally every fish I have purchase came with something and QT has saved me tons of headache and thousands of dollars in losses.
Hyposalinity
Hyposalinity has been around for ages in the hobby. It’s a tried and method that requires precision and constant monitoring. The reason why it doesn’t make my list of preferred methods is because it will not treat against the Deadly Three. This disqualifies this method for me.
Tank Transfer Method (TTM)
Tank Transfer Method or TTM is a very popular method among the forums and even by some online store who have suggested it as a reliable method. However, the supply chain has changed since those times. 3 years ago I would say TTM was great, but with the increased commercialization of the hobby I am seeing more and more of the deadly 3 appearing and cannot recommend this method any longer. Tank transfer method will not protect your fish against the deadly three. You can however do a hybrid TTM with medications like Copper and CP, which I will explain in Part 2.
Safety Stop
Now we are getting to methods that protect against the deadly three (Amazon Affiliate links ahead). Safety Stop is first up (Ruby Reef Rally can also be used if you cannot obtain Safety Stop). Safety Stop is a medicated dip of Formalin and Methylene Blue. Formalin is consider one of the hard drugs of the hobby, capable of wiping out various disease such as Marine Velvet, Brook, and Uroema.
Melev’s Reef has documented his process of how he added all his fish to his 400 Gallon tank with no quarantine over a 2 year period. That is proof that this method will work. Safety Stop will not prevent against internal parasite however and if your fish end up with a bacterial infection – there is no way to treat this in a display. This is why I recommend dipping your fish in Safety Stop before they go into Quarantine
Copper – (Using Chelated Copper AKA Copper Power)
Time to get into the good stuff! The next two method are ironclad and will protect against just about any disease in QT. The next two methods also have their uses depending on the fish you needing to QT. Chelated copper is considered more preferable over over type of copper because it is safe and has a higher therapeutic range. You have to maintain your levels throughout the process and I would recommend a precise tester like a Hanna Checker.
People are generally scared of copper due to the fears from Companies selling “Reef Safe” medication and those who want to do natural remedies. I will tell you right now that both Copper and ChloroquinePhosphate are veterinarian choices when it comes to treating external parasites. Would you rather listen to a licensed vet or a Company that wants to make money off you selling subpar medication?
*UPDATE* – We no longer support Copper Safe for Chelated Copper. Copper Power would be the safest and more consistent chelated copper on the market. Use together with a Hanna Checker Copper Tester. Copper Power is very difficult to find at a local fish store. It is best to purchase it off Amazon directly from the manufacturer, Enrich. Copper can also be combined with General Cure instead of Prazipro.
Here’s a video from my friend Aaron who goes over Copper Power treatment. You can use this Copper Power Calculator to determine the dosage you need:
Chloroquine Phosphate + General Cure (The Current Meta In Marine Fish Disease Treatment)
We have come to the pinnacle of Prophylactic treatments available in the hobby. Chloroquine Phosphate plus the combination of API General Cure is provides the simplest nearly full proof method of quarantine. Chloroquine Phosphate (or CP for short) is the preferred medication for Marine Velvet, Brooklynella, and Uroema. It is as close to a wonder drug as you can get currently. It is easy to administrator as long as you have a good digital scale to measure (these are easy obtained for cheap).
The main issue with Chloroquine Phosphate is that is it difficult to obtain outside of a Veterinarian’s prescription. If you are like me, you probably cannot obtain Chloroquine Phosphate from a Vet and have to go of the route of obtaining it from a supplier. Getting it from a supplier can be risky as you may not know the source and the purity of the substance. I obtain aquaculture grade Chloroquine Phosphate so you can always purchase it from me and I have certificate of analysis available so you know the purity and can adjust accordingly. Here is a link to a Chloroquine Phosphate Dosage Calculator.
Instructions for Setup
Setting up a quarantine tank is fairly easy to do, you just want to make sure you have the correct equipment and meds to get started. You will want to start off with a long tank. A 20 gallon or 29 gallon are ideal as you can use this larger quarantine tank to house multiple fish and get your QT done faster. A 10 gallon tank will also suffice, but more suited to 1 fish at a time quarantine. Petco’s dollar per gallon sale is the way to go to get these tanks as they are really cheap if you buy them on sale.
After that, you want a reliable power head for flow – at least 400 gph and some type of filtration. I prefer to use the best power filter, which is an aquaclear power filter as you can use multiple media in the filter and use carbon to remove medication. A sponge filter is also an ideal alternative for a budget conscious build.
A seachem ammonia badge is necessary to monitor your ammonia levels since many low priced test kits will not detect ammonia correctly once you start doing copper or chloroquine phosphate.
A heater (check out our best aquarium heaters post for recommendations) and a cheap thermometer round out the list of electronic equipment.
The last things are shelter and a cover. PVC fittings are ideal because they will not absorb medication and can provide tunnels for your fish. These can be purchased from any hardware store. A cover is an absolute must if you want to provide a fish from jumping. I prefer a glass cover for QT systems since I don’t have to worry about evaporation and can be custom cut in the back to ensure 100% coverage.
Getting a QT tank cycled up can be a tricky endeavor. If you are starting brand new, the best way to quickly cycle the QT tank is to throw in a few of the filter sponges in your dry or live rock tank when you start cycling your main tank. Once that tank cycles, the media in the tank will be full of bacteria and ready to go into your QT. If you started with dry rock, you have the advantage of starting disease free so you can freely throw in the sponges in the QT system to get started.
For live rock starts, if you follow the proper “cooking” method of no lights and a 5-8 week cure, that period of time going fishless should eliminate all harmful pathogens in the water column. Since you are going to use meds in your QT, the risk is pretty minimal so as long as you follow a 5-8 week fishless cure timeframe with liverock you will be ready to go with your QT system. The advantage you have with liverock is that the rock can self-sustain without fish indefinitely so you can take your time QTing. With dry rock, you will need to monitor your phosphates and nitrates to make sure you do not bottom out.
If you already have a tank setup, throw in the filter sponges in your sump for 2-3 weeks to get it full of bacteria. You do run the risk of introducing pathogens if you didn’t QT previously. Another method is to dose the sponges with bacteria-in-a-bottle products like biospiraand carefully monitor your ammonia levels from there.
The video above goes over the parts list and the complete 32-35 day flowchart for quarantine with CP and General Cure. Both the method I use and Aaron’s will work very well so use the method that works for you and with the medications you can obtain.
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📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
Dinoflagellates are one of the most dreaded problems in the reef hobby. and I say that as someone who’s battled them firsthand in my 125-gallon reef. What makes dinos so frustrating is that they’re not fully understood and they require a multi-pronged approach to eliminate. I’ve worked through dino outbreaks myself and tested various strategies, and I can tell you the methods that actually move the needle. This guide covers everything from identification to long-term prevention.
Key Takeaways
Dinos are caused by a combination of a lack of biodiversity and lack of nutrients in a saltwater aquarium
Dinoflagellates can light without nutrients and off lighting. Sunlight and lighting will make things worse
There are several ways to get rid of Dinos, but the most tried and true is adding biodiversity and dosing nitrates and phosphates to maintain minimal levels for other algae to grow
What Are Dinoflagellates?
In the Wild
Dinoflagellates are protists, an organism that can function as a plant and an animal at the same time. Some dinoflagellates eat other protozoa; some generate energy through photosynthesis; some can do both. In the wild, there are about 1,700 different kinds of marine dinoflagellates and 200 freshwater kinds. They are important part of the food chain, providing nourishment for other sea creatures. In a natural environment, they’re a crucial member of the ecosystem.
In Your Tank
Unfortunately, dinoflagellates quickly become a nuisance in an aquarium environment.
Dinoflagellates quickly overrun the surface in your aquarium because there is no specific ecosystem for them to survive. Depending on the conditions, dinoflagellates can multiply up to a million cells in one milliliter of water in just a short period of time. The bigger the population, a higher chance that it will make the water toxic and can kill other life form inside your tank. So, it’s important to control dinoflagellate population as early as possible before it occupies every space inside your aquarium.
What Should I Look For?
It’s not like you’re going to go to the store and buy some dinos to dump into your tank; these pests are introduced to your tank accidentally. Your tank can get this from food, corals, rocks, and other aquatic plants. Dinos are very resilient because it can live without eating anything for a long time unlike any other life forms like algae.
Nutrients are present in your tank which gives energy to fishes and plants. Even if your tank lacks nutrients, dinos can still survive. It is possible for your tank to have dinos if the nitrates and phosphates level in your aquarium are close to zero. It is important to regularly check your tank before it becomes too late.
Identifying What Dinoflagellate You’re Dealing With
The best way to approach your dino problem is to first figure out what kind of dino has moved into your aquarium.
The most common dinoflagellate (or “dino” for short) to see in an aquarium is a slimy, stringy brown variety, commonly known as Brown Slime Algae. Most aquarium enthusiasts have dubbed it “the brown menace.” They’re not all brown, though. They also come in white, yellow, and various shades of green.
In more technical terms, there are four main dinoflagellates you’ll see in your aquarium1:
Ostreopsis
Prorocentrum
Amphidinium
Coolia
Some of the things all of these guys have in common is that they:
Are mucous-like (sometimes described as runny boogers)
Produce air bubbles
Trap air bubbles between the slime and the glass of the tank
Spread quickly, covering all surfaces with coral being a particular favorite
Here’s an easy test you can do to determine if you have algae or dinos:
Scoop some sludge and water out of your tank.
Put the sludgy water in a clear container with a lid.
Shake the container to break up all of the floating bits.
Filter the water either through paper towel or a filter sock into a second clear container.
Leave the second container of filtered water in a sunny location.
Monitor the water for changes, namely the reappearance of mucous-like strands.
Eventually, dinoflagellates will regroup after they’ve been filtered. Algae will remain separated. So, if the strands of goo show up, you know you have dinos!
How Do I Get Them Under Control?
Dinos aren’t necessarily a bad thing. When there aren’t too many of them, they’re part of the ecosystem. But if you provide an ultra low nutrient tank with no biodiversity, they’ll make themselves known quickly. The best way to tackle them varies on how bad your case is.
Dinos are a very resilient pest to control in the aquarium. You will never get rid of them completely since they are part of the ecosystem, but you have to control them with a multi-prong approach in order to keep them for showing themselves in your tank.
Manual Removal
The first step is removal. Others might think that they need to remove all the water and change it with a new one, but that is definitely wrong. Along the process of removing dinos, changing the water in your tank will make things worse. Dinos thrive in nutrient straved tanks and cleaning water will eliminate nutrients and allow Dinos to thrive further. It advisable that you remove the dinos manually with the use of filter sock instead of changing water.
You will need a very fine filter sock to do this (Quick Note – this post contains affiliate links. An affiliate link means I may earn advertising or referral fees if you make a purchase through my link). A 10 micron filter sock is fine enough to catch dinos in the water column.
Increasing Nitrates and Phosphates
Another way to get rid of dinos is by increasing the amount of nutrients in your tank. You should increase nitrates and phosphates to observable level. You may consider nitrates with NeoNiitro and NeoPhos from Brightwell Aquatics. Even a freshwater solution like SeaChem Flourish will work as well.
Remove Nutrient Reducing Media
You also need to remove nutrient reducing media like GFO. It is common for many tanks to have dino outbreak because of the presence of GFO. When you get rid of GFO’s, it is easier for you to increase the nutrient level in your tank and maintain it in the long run. Stop doing any type of nutrient decreasing dino. Examples are No-Pox and Vodka dosing.
Protect Your Invertebrates and Fish!
Along the process of dealing with dinos, having carbon present in your tank will help neutralize the toxins they release as they die off. This will protect your livestock.
Adjust pH
Adjust the pH of your tank. A pH of +8.4 is a good level for reef tanks to avoid dino blooms. The pH is something you can play with over time to determine what works best for your tank.
Kill The Lights
Control the lighting in your tank because the most common dinos derive their energy from photosynthesis, so killing the lights will also kill them. You can use a blackout curtain or cardboard with duct tape around the tank and on top of the tank. Blackouts should last at least 72 hours. Blackouts will usually not result in an eradication of dinos, but will qwell them done to the point where you can start utilizing other methods.
Use Hydrogen Peroxide
Add small doses of hydrogen peroxide to your tank. The general rule is 1 ml per 10 gallons of water. Regular 3% hydrogen peroxide is used.
Use A UV Sterilizer
Use a UV Sterilizer. Get a high quality and well sized UV Sterilizer and run it 24-7. The UV sterilizer will be most effective during the blackout period. This method works best when dealing with Ostreopsis. You can use a Jabeo UVas a cheap solution or an Aqua UV for a high-end solution.
Fauna Marin has developed a product called Dino X that is made to eliminate dinoflagellates in a reef tank. It is a very harsh treatment and should only be considered after all these methods are attempted and you increase biodiversity (see below on that). Fauna Marin requests that you not use carbon during the treatment program, which makes this risky to use since dinos will release toxins when they start to die. Remove as much as possible before attempting. Fauna Marin also recommends using a protein skimmer during the treatment option, so those with nano reef tanks or skimmerless setups may not be able to use this product.
My Take After Years Fighting Dinos — Biodiversity Is Everything
I wrote this article years ago when there was almost no information available on dinoflagellates in reef tanks — the hobby was just starting to piece together what caused outbreaks and why standard algae treatments didn’t work. What I’ve learned since then, and what I’d emphasize above everything else on this page: biodiversity is the root issue, and modern reef setups are working against you from day one. Ultra-pure RO water, dry rock, sterile substrate — we’ve engineered the microbial competition completely out of the system. Dinos thrive in that vacuum.
The most underrated solution I see people skip: get rock from an established tank. A piece from a reef club member’s system, a seeded rock from your LFS, even a chunk from your own mature display — that rock carries an entire community of microorganisms that dry rock simply doesn’t have. Combine that with live sand from a quality source (I link to the Florida maricultured option below) and you’re stacking biodiversity from two angles before dinos ever get a foothold.
And here’s the nutrient piece people consistently get wrong: you need nitrates and phosphates measurably above zero. Not trace levels — actually above 0 on a test kit. Reef tanks chasing “pristine” ultra-low nutrients are the tanks that get dino outbreaks. Dose NeoNitro and NeoPhos (or equivalent) until your tests show something above the floor. That shift in nutrient baseline, combined with solid biodiversity, is the one-two punch that controls dinos long-term.
Biodiversityis a major reason why new tanks get dinos when they hit low nutrient conditions. A biodiverse tank has multiple organisms that compete with dinos and keep them from thriving. When choosing the type of rock you are going to use, keep biodiversity in mind. You can choose between live rock and complete dry rock or a hybrid, but I would caution against going with a 100% dry rock and dry sand start.
Dry rock is devoid of biodiversity while in a live rock tank you don’t usually see dinos. It is hard for them to multiply because there too many competitors even in a low nutrient environment.
The problem will be the availability of the live rock because it is quite hard to find nowadays and is expensive to boot.
These days – Real Reef Live Rock is the best source for aquacultured live rock that has the right balance of biodiversity while still being free of pests. This is the best option for those who who not use a sand bed and going bare bottom yet want to free of the risk of pests.
You can obtain Live Rock from Florida that is Maricultured. If you are starting up a new tank and can cure, this is an excellent option. It is shipped directly to your door. The base is Oolite Limestone rock that has been left in the ocean for several years undisturbed. The foundation of live rock’s biodiversity is a key factor in preventing dino outbreaks. You will run the risk of a having a pest hitchhiker, but honestly in my experience these pests are less of a pain to deal with then dinos.
For those people who are not able to procure live rock or have a sand bed, the other option would be to introduce microfauna and bacteria through an aquaculture facility like Indo Pacific Sea Farms. They have been around for many years and their live sand activator and wondermud are just the ticket for increasing biodiversity.
Remove Overabundant Food Sources (AKA Your Invertebrates if an outbreak occurs)
Snails encourage dinoflagellates to settle in and make your tank their home. Well, they don’t actually do it when they’re alive: a dead snail is a feast for a population of dinoflagellate. Dinos will wreck havoc on an invert population. Anything that attempts to eat it can be poisoned to death and the toxins they release will kill most inverts including microfauna like pods! Make sure you’re removing any dead snails, fish, and corals from the tank.
Because it’s hard to tell if your snails are alive, the most foolproof way to prevent that is by removing the snails altogether. Once your dino problem is under control, they can be returned to the tank.
Balance Tank Nutrients
A couple of specific nutrient-related things you can monitor and manage in your tank are:
Magnesium: levels should be somewhere in the 1400-1600ppm range
pH levels (as mentioned above)
Bacteria: introducing new bacteria to your tank will deprive dinos of nutrients. Live Rock and Live Sand are your best friends to maintain biodiversity!!!
Nitrates – Work on getting these above 0 and maintaining it. A little bit of nitrates is good for your tank
Phosphates – Don’t let your phosphates hit 0
Don’t Create an Undernourished Environment
A tank that is starved for nutrition can cause a dino population to pop up too. Usually this situation comes about when you make some major change to the landscape or population of your tank, and the food shortage is abrupt. Dinos don’t actually need that much physical food to eat, especially since most are also photosynthetic. So, if other bacteria or phytoplankton in your tank die out from lack of nutrients, it removes the dinoflagellate’s primary competition and gives them room to thrive.
ASD Dino Outbreak Severity Scale
One of the hardest parts of dealing with dinoflagellates is knowing how aggressively to respond. Not every outbreak is the same. After going through multiple dino cycles in reef systems, I built this scale to help hobbyists calibrate their response — rather than immediately jumping to nuclear options like Dino X:
Level 1 — Early Stage (thin rust-colored film, appears mostly at lights-off, disappears by morning): Your tank is borderline. Start with nutrients first — raise nitrates above 2 ppm, phosphates above 0.05 ppm. Manual removal + target water flow. Do NOT panic. 80% of Level 1 outbreaks resolve with nutrient adjustment alone.
Level 2 — Established (consistent coverage on sand/rocks, bubbles visible, doesn’t fully disappear overnight): Add biodiversity intervention: pods, chaeto, live rock from an established system. Blackout 3 days combined with nutrient dosing. Reassess after 1 week.
Level 3 — Heavy Infestation (corals covered, spreading rapidly, water quality affected): Multi-pronged approach required. Manual removal daily + UV sterilizer running + aggressive biodiversity seeding + possible H2O2 spot treatment. Only escalate to Dino X if Levels 1-3 fail after 3 weeks.
Level 4 — Tank Crash Risk (livestock dying, dinos across entire system): Emergency protocol — Dino X as directed, full blackout, reassess livestock survival. Consider a full restart with cured rock if biodiversity has been completely eliminated.
ASD principle: The severity scale exists because most hobbyists jump to Level 4 response on a Level 1 outbreak. Hydrogen peroxide and Dino X both nuke the microbial biodiversity you need to prevent dinos from coming back. Use the least aggressive intervention that works — and give it time.
Wrapping Up
Quality equipment planning and setup is important for the overall health of your tank, whether it’s a 10 gallon aquarium or a 100-gallon aquarium. While there are several factors that help dinoflagellates take over, a poor setup and controlling parameters tops the list.
When dying, dinoflagellates release toxins into your water. So, it’s essential to purify the water consistently, both during and after your dinoflagellate infestation.
Here Is a Wrap Up To Close Down This Post:
Biodiversity Is Your Friend!
Don’t be scared to get live rock or add live sand activators in your tank
Having Nitrates and Phosphates Is Good!
Having Nitrates and Phosphates is good – our hobby has spent years demonizing this. This has lead to tank setups way overbuilt from the start and completely sterile start systems. This extreme approach has lead to more and more dino cases over time!
Dinos Require a Multi-Prong Approach
Dinos are tough to deal with. Use the recommended techniques mentioned in this post to fight them off and understand this is a intense battle.
Test Your Water Parameters!
Regularly test your water’s nutrients – nitrates & phosphate and understand the nutrient consumption on your tank. Modern reefs these days can strip nutrients completely clean and may require dosing of nitrates and phosphates to stay at a healthy level. Knowing your consumption puts you in control of your reef tank! Use a reliable quality test kit to monitor your levels and get in the habit of testing regulary.
However you choose to combat your dinoflagellates, know you’re not alone. Just about every modern aquarium enthusiast has done battle with the brown menace. There is hope: you just need to be consistent and patient in your approach killing them off.
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.
The Royal Gramma is the best beginner saltwater fish nobody talks about. Hardy, colorful, peaceful in most setups, and priced reasonably.
Royal grammas are the underrated starter fish of the saltwater hobby. They deserve more attention.
The Royal Gramma is one of the few saltwater fish that is hardy enough for beginners and interesting enough that experienced reefers still keep them. That combination is rare.
Are you planning on adding a Royal Gramma Basslet to your reef tank? This fish is striking with its purple and yellow body, but it’s important to learn how to take care of them before adding one to your tank. In this blog post, we’ll discuss the requirements for keeping a Royal Gramma healthy and happy in your saltwater aquarium.
About the Royal Gramma
The Royal Gramma has been a mainstay in many reef tanks for many years. Its scientific name is Grammaloreto. It is also known as the Fairy Basslet. It hails from the Caribbean. This fish really packs it all. They work in most saltwater aquariums due to their compact size, they are very hardy, and very peaceful.
Species Overview
Below are the main stats and facts for the Royal Gramma fish:
Scientific Name
Gramma Loreto
Common Name (Species)
Royal Gramma
Family
Grammatidae
Origin
Florida, South America, West Atlantic Ocean
Diet
Carnivore
Care Level
Easy
Activity
Active
Lifespan
At least 5 years
Temperment
Semi-aggressive
Tank Level
All Areas
Size
3 inches
Minimum Tank Size
30 Gallons
Temperature Range
73. 81 Degrees F
pH Range
8.1. 8.4
Filtration/Flow Rate
All
Water Type
Saltwater
Breeding
Egg-layers, Difficult to breed
Compatibility
Semi-Aggressive tanks
Ok, For Reef Tanks?
Yes
Ok, For Inverts?
Mostly Yes
What Does This Fish Look Like?
The main attraction with the Royal Gramma Basslet are their colors. There really are few fish that really have this assortment of vibrant colors at this size. The front half of its body is purple with black strips across the eyes and the back half is yellow. They are a lone species in a saltwater aquarium because they are known to be aggressive to any fish that looks similar to it and males Royal Gramma will fight among themselves. If there is a lone male in the tank, it is possible for the group to form a harem, but it is difficult to sex them. Due to their size and temperament, they make good candidates for nano reef tanks.
If you are looking at trying to have a pair or harem, the best way to attempt this would be to buy 2 immature royal grammas ensuring that one is slightly bigger then the other. What hopefully will happen is the larger fish will become the male. This has also been attempted with a group of immature grammas where the top two in the pecking order are kept and paired up. The remaining Royal Grammas are then returned to the fish store or traded to other hobbyists.
Tank Requirements
Royal gramma are very versatile fish. They is small in both small tanks and large tanks. Ideally, you want them in no small then a 30 gallon saltwater aquarium. This gives them enough room to feel comfortable and will not make them hyper aggressive – a common issue with any territorial fish when placed in an aquarium that is too small.
One of the more amusing characteristics of this species is its propensity to orient itself with its belly toward any nearby hard surface, whether it happens to be the floor, wall, or ceiling of its cave. So, it’s not unusual. Or any cause for alarm. To see a royal gramma specimen positioned completely upside down or on its side within its rocky refuge. While it looks odd, it’s just your gramma being a gramma.
Grammas are known jumpers. Jumping is caused by stress and Royal Grammas are really good about handling stress. They are not as risky as say a firefish, but it would not hurt to have a cover on your tank for preventative measures. Many reef tanks owners like to use a mesh cover instead of a hard glass lid to have the benefit of gas exchange.
These fish do well with lots of hiding places. You will want a setup with lots of rocks and caves. They tend to jump in and out of caves. They will not be out of the open as much as say clownfish. They are very hardy fish. They may hide when first introduced and some are just skittish in nature. The more hiding places you have for them the better. They do best in fish only with live rock or reef tank environments.
Temperament
Royal gramma’s temperament can either be described as reclusive or bold depending on the personality of the fish. In an aquarium, you will see them darting from cave to cave. They will stick to the rocks and will not be seen in the open unless they are feeding (video source).
They tend to be territorial fish and will try to chase away any fish that tries to come into their caves, but most fish will have a more aggressive temperature. They will not try to pick a fight with another fish (unless it looks like them). Their aggression is to just to defend their territory, but they will yield to a more aggressive fish. Fish like Angelfish and Clownfish will pick them a little, but the conflict will resolve itself once the more dominant fish asserts its position in the tank.
They will get along with virtually all fish in a reef tank. Your main concern with Royal Grammas is a fish is too aggressive or try to eat it given its small size. You will also want to avoid any fish that looks like it – like fire fish.
Diet
They will eat nearly any type of food offered to them and do not get large with the max size being around 3″. They are an aggressive eater often dashing in and out to grab food. You don’t need to worry about it getting enough food in the tank as they compete for food well. They prefer meaty foods. With most saltwater fish, frozen food is going to be the best choice for diet. Frozen food is unfortunately hard to find online due to shipping costs. I would recommend you shop at your specialty fish store to get frozen food for your Royal Gramma fish.
The best frozen food for this fairy basslet are going to be LRS Food’s Reef Frenzy nano. You will only be able to pick this up at specialty fish stores. The next choice would be common frozen food you can find at a general pet store. Mysis shrimp would be the best choice for a staple. You can use Selcon to add vitamins to your frozen mysis shrimp to add more nutritional value to your Royal Gramma’s diet.
Gramma loreto is more bark than bite in the aquarium. They will try to assert themselves, but will often times be settled down by more aggressive tankmates like clownfish, angelfish, and tangs. Given that a Royal Gramma is on the lower end of the semi-aggressive scale, they are best near the beginning of your livestock additions since they will not harass most saltwater fish to death.
They are incompatible with other similar looking fish like firefish. Any large predatory fish that can fit them in their mouths like lionfish are completely off limits.
Are They Reef Safe?
I am different from other bloggers and live fish sellers in that I separate what is “reef safe” into two categories. Reef safe for corals and reef safe for inverts. This allows you to make an informed decision of what you would like in your saltwater reef tank.
A Royal Gramma Basslet in your reef tank will be a model citizen. They are just about as reef safe as you can get. They are both reef safe for corals and for inverts. I have personally never heard of them ever bothering corals or nipping at them. They do not dig or disturb rock work or substrates.
Regarding inverts, the Royal Gramma is very well behaved. They get along with nearly any type of invertebrate in the aquarium. Gramma loreto is a perfect fish for any reef aquarium.
Are They Available As Tank Bred?
Unfortunately, it is difficult to find a Royal Gramma that is tank bred. This is primarily due to the availability of wild Grammas near the United States and being relatively cheap to import. Grammas are abundant and cheap to purchase at any online or local fish store. Successfully breeding Royal Grammas is also difficult. While they are easy to get to spawn, it is difficult to rear and grow out the larvae and juveniles.
Outside of the US, there are efforts to tank breed them. One such location is Australia. In Australia, it is not uncommon for a Royal Gramma fish to cost as much as $120 compared to less than $20 in the US. Reef Keepers reported that successful breeding programs are underway with captive Grammas likely to be available this year. As Royal Gramma care for fry improve, I would expect us to see tank breed fish come into the supply chain at some point in the future.
FAQs
Is This Fish Reef Safe?
Yes – a Royal Gramma is one of the most reef safe fish you put in your aquarium. They will not eat corals and will leave more inverts like shrimp and crabs alone. They will adapt to virtually any community reef tank.
How Long Does it Live?
, you can expect your Royal Gramma to live over 5 years. There have been reports with other advanced reefers who have kept Royal Grammas for over 10 years! The better the environment and diet for your fish, the longer it will potentially live. This is very much true in saltwater fish as many have lived well beyond their expected life cycles in captive environments such as public aquariums.
Are They Jumpers?
Yes, Royal Grammas are at risk for jumping out of a tank. The best way to prevent them from jumping is to cover your aquarium either with a lid or a mesh net. The mesh is preferable as it will still allow for gas exchange and will not harm your fish as much as a glass lid in the event of an attempted jump.
Are They Hardy?
Yes, a Royal Gramma is one of the most hardy saltwater fish you can purchase in the hobby. While they are not available as tank bred at the moment, they are far more hardier than many wild caught counterparts in the hobby. Their small size also make them ideal for beginners.
Are They Peaceful?
The Royal Gramma, like more saltwater fish are semi-aggressive and territorial. They will defend their territory and try to attack fish who look like them. That being said, they are one of the least aggressive semi-aggressive fish you can purchase. Most fish like Clownfish, Tangs, and Angelfish will beat them out on aggression. Grammas will mellow out in the presence of these fish. You can say their bark is bigger than their bite!
Do You Have Experience With These Fish?
Let us know your experience with the Royal Gramma Basslet in the comments below. We love hearing everyone’s personal experience and tank stories.
Jaguar cichlids are one of the most aggressive freshwater fish you can keep. They will eat anything that fits in their mouth, attack fish twice their size, and outgrow most tanks within a year. I have seen experienced keepers underestimate this fish and pay for it with dead tank mates and cracked heaters. If you are not ready for a dedicated predator tank, this is not your fish.
Having a pet is one of the best things, especially if that pet is a fish. A Jaguar Cichlid is a silent, beautiful fish, and some of them are great for pest control. Although it will seem like fish are easy to care for, there are a lot of species which require a lot of attention as well as special food or tanks.
In this article, we are going to talk about an interesting fish species: the jaguar cichlid. Here you can find out everything you need to know about these species including its compatibility with other fish. It’s good to know that jaguar cichlids can’t be put in a tank with Tetra or Angel Fish. They are large and aggressive fish. They are known as “tank busters” among predator enthusiasts as they can crack smaller tanks with their aggressive antics.
The Jaguar Cichlid, scientifically known as parachromis managuesis (and also known as the Managuense cichlid), is a large species of Cichlid. They are originally from Central America and is found from Costa Rica to Honduras. Unlike most fish tropical fish, this species is bigger, and it can grow to up to 24 inches! These are highly predatory fish, and this is why it is difficult to find the right tank mate. The jaguar cichlid is very valuable for it’s looks. It is one of the more beautiful, larger, and aggressive Cichlids from Central America that you can purchase.
The Reality of Keeping Jaguar Cichlid
Size is the first reality check. Jaguar Cichlid grows fast and grows large. A tank that fits today will not fit in six months.
Aggression is not optional. This fish is territorial by nature. Tank mates are selected around this fact or they become food.
Filtration needs are extreme. Large predatory cichlids produce massive waste loads. Underfilter this tank and water quality crashes fast.
Biggest Mistake New Jaguar Cichlid Owners Make
Putting Jaguar Cichlid in a tank that is too small. This fish grows fast and gets aggressive in tight spaces. Start with the final tank size from day one or do not start at all.
Expert Take
Jaguar Cichlid is a commitment fish. Start with a 70 gallon minimum, run heavy filtration, and stock only tank mates that hold their own. Half measures do not work with predatory cichlids.
Size and Looks
The Managuense jaguar cichlid is a big, elongated freshwater fish. It’s flat from sides and it has an oval body. Its appearance shows that it’s a raptorial feeder which has adapted to aggressive assaults. These fish have different sizes when they live in captivity. For instance, a wild jaguar cichlid can reach 60 cm and it can weigh about 7 kg. Here is a video by Mrlilchilly1 showing a full grown Jaguar Cichlid in action.
Unlike the ones living in the wild, jaguar cichlids that lives in captivity grow to about 35 cm in length. The Parachromis managuensis females can only reach 30 cm and they weigh about 3 kg. These are some of the biggest fish which is put in a tank and kept as a pet.
The color of the Jaguar Cichlid is silvery with spots of brown and black. Its color pattern resembles the one of a jaguar, as its name states. An interesting fact about their color pattern is that it’s almost impossible to find two jaguar cichlids with the same body spots. This species also presents a big head with a large mouth and big lips. They have pharyngeal teeth which help them hunt.
Male vs. Female Differences
A male Jaguar Cichlid is larger and will have more vertical broken bars when young. These bars will disappear once the male reaches maturity. A female Parachromis managuesis on the other hand, will have thinner vertical bars and will have a more pronounced dark bars and have more reddish coloration on their gill covers. Juvenile fish are readily available at fish stores and online. These Cichlids get more expensive and harder to find the larger they are.
Having Them in a tank
There are some important things to keep in mind when you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet. For instance, these fish can’t share a tank with a lot of species. In order to accommodate the cichlid and the other tankmates, you need to have a tank with aggressive fish. Also, you need to have large fish so that they won’t get hurt or eaten by the jaguar cichlid.
It’s best to pair the jaguar cichlid with other cichlids like the Red Devil, Texas, or the Midas cichlid. These species are territorial to aggressive which means they are able to hold their own. Aggressiveness is best handled by additional tank space. Keeping your aggressive fish full will also curb aggressive. Hungry and cramped fish will get aggressive with their tank mates fighting for valuable territory. These large predatory fish mentioned will also enjoy the same foods. You will not have to worry about feeding them separately. Be sure to spread out food among each fish’s establish territory to avoid bricking and to ensure everyone gets fed.
Another important thing to consider before purchasing Parachromis managuensis is the tank. In this case, you will need an aquarium tank with a capacity of at least 100 gallons of water. The decorations of the tank should be big and bulky like rocks. Don’t put plants in their tank because this Cichlid will destroy them in no time. A good starter tank for a fish this size is a 125 gallon tank. This is a 6 foot long tank with enough width and depth to support a Cichlid of this size and still have room for other inhabitants.
You will need to put a substrate for the bottom of the tank that is made of large grained gravel and add some middle-sized grains. Maintain the water in the tank at a temperature of 24-25 C. Also, the pH of the water should be around 7 for optimal results.
Breeding
The jaguar cichlids have been bred in tanks for a long time. However, there are a few rules to follow when it comes to this species. The best way to help them breed is to make sure that you put 2 or 3 pairs of jaguar cichlids together in a tank when they are juvenile. If you try to put a new female or a new male when you have adult fish. You will risk losing these additions due to the jaguar cichlid’s territorial nature. This is a bigger risk if you your fish is actively breeding.
If you have an actively breeding couple, consider moving them to a different tank so that the breeding process goes smoothly. This tank should have at least 50 gallons (or 200 liters of water). Cichlids in general are great parents and are a joy to watch their fry raising process. It is a real threat to share this experience with your family.
Feeding
As we mentioned earlier, this freshwater fish is a carnivore and a raptorial which means they enjoy various types of live fish. They can also eat cut up fish or crayfish and dry foods. The jaguar cichlid prefers food like earthworms, crickets and tadpoles. Remember to feed them only once a day because they eat too much. Frozen food is also a good food staple to provide, through can get expensive given how much these fish need to eat at their adult size. Also, experts recommend a fasting the jaguar cichlid once a week.
These fish can also eat small reptiles, larva, or goldfish. However, it’s strictly prohibited to give these species warm-blooded meat like beef, pork or poultry. This type of meat has a lot of fat and it can affect the health of your cichlid.
Care
While it is a bit hard to find the right tankmates for this big and aggressive fish, it’s quite easy to care for them. These are hardy fish that will tolerate a variety of conditions.
Saying that however, one of the most important things is to keep the tank water clean. Large tanks are necessary for these big species. Apart from the large tank you will need to have canister filter or a sump filter to help you clean the water.
Remember to change about 30% of the water in the tank once or twice a week. Due to the fact that the aquariums are closed systems the phosphates and nitrates tend to build up in time. This makes the water hardness increase. Despite the fact that this species is aggressive, they are very sensitive to pH instability. If you oversize your filtration you may be able to get away with less water changes, but also monitor your nutrient levels with proper aquarium test kits.
It’s also recommended to use external tank equipment that can clean the water. Because of their large size and aggressive style, the jaguar cichlid can damage any internal filter or heater. Titanium heaters are recommended when you house fish as large and aggressive as these. Titanium heaters can take a beating and not crack or break. You should also avoid any decorations that can easily be moved or tossed around. Apart from these minor problems, jaguar cichlids are easy to care for.
Diseases that AffectThem
Unfortunately, fish are prone to infections and disease, especially predatory fish like the cichlid. Infections are common with predatory fish due to fighting as wounded can get infect. For parasites, one of the most common diseases is Ich. This is treated by simply raising the temperature to 86 degrees Fahrenheit for about 3 days. In case this doesn’t work, you will need to treat the pet with copper. Remember to be careful when you add a new decoration or a new fish to the tank because it is infected with disease. Stress from aggression can also bring about disease if the fish is carrying the disease. Stress will compromises a fish’s immune system, which will lead to an outbreak.
FAQs
How Aggressive are they?
Jaguar cichlids are very aggressive fish. They are territorial and will attempt to eat any fish they can fit in their mouths. Because of their territorial nature, they will attempt to fight any fish that comes near their territory. Due to their size and most aquariums sizes, this will mean they will fight any fish you place in your tank.
How Big Do They Get?
Jaguar cichlids can get up to 24 inches in length, but most will end up around 16-18 inches. Males will typically be larger than the females and they will get more aggressive as they get older and more established in a tank.
What Fish Can Go With A This Type of Fish?
The best tank mate for a Jaguar cichlid is another Jaguar cichlid — as a breeding pair. Note that a bonded pair will be very aggressive, especially once they start breeding. Other species you can consider if you have the space would be large cichlids like Red Devils, Green Terrors, and Oscars. You can also consider large catfish.
Can They Live With an Oscar?
Yes, they can be compatible if you have the space for them to work out their territory issues. It is best to attempt this pairing when you have more experience. If you are attempting to house them together, consider a single Jaguar with an Oscar. Preferably, try a female Jaguar over a male when pairing.
Conclusion
A jaguar cichlid does not share a tank. It owns it.
These are some of the most important things you should know about this amazing freshwater species. If you want to purchase a jaguar cichlid as a pet you need to be careful with the tank capacity and the pH of the water. Apart from that just feed them once a day with worms or dry food and they will be fine. Also, don’t put them in tanks with smaller fish because the jaguar can kill or eat them.
Got any additional questions about the Jaguar cichlid? If so, leave a comment below and let’s start a conversation!. Let us know what aggressive fish you have been able to pair with this monster fish!
📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.
Nutrient export is one of the most debated topics in reef keeping, and I’ve experimented with most of the major methods in my 125-gallon over the years. GFO reactors, biopellets, refugiums with chaeto, and algae scrubbers. Each has a real place depending on your system’s bioload and your maintenance preferences. This breakdown is based on what I’ve actually run, not just theory.
Algae scrubbers are finally starting to pick up mainstream acceptance in the Reefkeeping community! As someone who has advocated Algae Turf Scrubbers, for many years it great to see them more widely accepted. There is still a lot of skepticism in the industry though and many store still push other products and solution. I created this article below so you can see the differences between an Algae Scrubber (AKA Algae Turf Scrubber) and other solutions like there. There will be affiliate links in this article as a quick disclosure where I may make a commission should you make a purchase from the link at no charge to you. Let’s get started.
Algae Scrubber vs. Algae Blocker
Ah the Algae blocker. This is a very common solution you will hear about at your Local Fish Store (LFS) when a customer comes in with an algae problem. I think of these as the diet pill solution to nuisance algae in the industry.
What is a blocker?
An algae blocker is a chemical product that will work to remove nuisance algae in the aquarium. The most well known algae blocker is Boyd Enterprises Chem Clean who sells a Cyano blocker. The industry has gotten really good over the years and have created reef safe solutions that will remove algae, but will not harm inverts and corals.
Why is this better than the Blockers?
An algae blocker’s purpose is to quickly remove algae, but it is not an end all solution. They really are meant to wipe out nuisance algae after the long-term problem is treated – usually a poor water source or bad aquarium housekeeping. They become expensive to use long-term.
An Algae Scrubber on the other hand, is a natural solution to nuisance algae. The algae you grow in the scrubber sucks up the nutrients that feed other forms of algae, and the algae is keep in one spot where you can remove it. Scrubbers are always a long-term investment in the aquarium as they do not need ongoing filters or replacement parts.
Is The Reactor Different?
Algae reactors have been commercialized recently with the raise of Algae Scrubbers.
What is a reactor?
An algae reactor is a self container container that grows macro algae like cheato. They are pretty complex units, with a reactor chamber, pump, and lighting all functioning in the unit.
The biggest advantage to an algae reactor is ease of use and simplicity. While an Algae Reactor has a comprehensive unit, an algae scrubber has simple individual parts. This means that if one part breaks, it is easier to fix vs having to buy another unit.
Biopellets
Biopellets have been a solution for denitrification for years
What is a Biopellet Reactor?
Biopellets themselves are a polymer that is made up of bacteria. They are meant to be a supplement to the beneficial bacteria in your aquarium. The main draw is these biopellets will remove nitrates. They require a reactor so you can efficiently work the materiel and cultivate the bacteria.
What is better than Biopellets?
Biopellets can be tricky to dial in and can actually strip too many nutrients in your tank. Stability of the operation is there biggest issue. You also still need to address phosphates requiring another equipment solution. An algae scrubber handles both nitrates and phosphates and are easier to operate once they are broken in.
Cheato
Cheato was the first acceptance of using algae to control nutrients in an aquarium
What is Cheato?
Cheato is single celled macro algae that is simple to grow and easy to place in a sump. It is one of the easiest and simpliest ways to control nutrients in a tank
Which is better than Cheato?
The main advantage you will get from a scrubber is surface area growth. Scrubbers have the ability to grow more nutrient absorbing algae in a concentrated space then cheato. You need a lot of cheato to control nutrients and you need the space in your sump to do it. The major downfall is the risk of pests and disease from Cheato. Yes, that is correct Cheato can bring over a number of pests and diseases. Unless you Quarantine your Cheato (very few people do this) or you get your Cheato from a source that guarantees clean Cheato (like Algaebarn), it is always a risk. With an Algae Turf scrubber, you are growing your own algae from your own tank. You are in full control of what comes in and out through your introduction procedures with your fish, inverts, and corals.
But other than that cheato is and will always be a cheap and go solution for nutrient control. It is algae after all and a natural way of removing nutrients in the aquarium.
Denitrator
Denitrators were a solution to aquariums for many years until other products like Zeovit and Biopellets came about.
What is a Denitrator?
A denitrator is a piece of equipment that has been used in wastewater treatment plants and public aquariums for years. Denitrators are the solution to using a traditional media bag in the sump which is harder to manage optimally. A denitrator pieces the media in a chamber where the water can properly react to it resulting in consumption of nitrates.
Which is better than a Denitrator?
A denitrator system and a built algae scrubber equipment wise are around the same price. The main advantage you will get with an algae scrubber is you will not need to replace your media and the parts are easier to replace. The other advantage that an algae scrubber will have is that it will remove phosphates while the denitrator will only remove nitrates. You will need to invest in other equipment to control phosphates.
GFO (AKA Phosban)
GFO is a common media used in saltwater aquariums. Phosban is the big name brand that sells GFO.
What is GFO?
Granular Ferric Oxide or GFO is media that is used in an aquarium to remove phosphates. It is also used to remove heavy metals and other toxins in the aquarium. Generally, GFO is placed in a reactor for optimal use.
Which is better than GFO?
Investing in a GFO system will incurring recurring costs as the media will need to be replaced every 1-2 months. GFO also does not remove nitrates, meaning you will need another piece of equipment or solution to remove nitrates from your aquarium. An algae scrubber will remove both phosphates and nitrates and will not incur recurring costs.
Refugium
For reefers who have a sump, it is very common for them to have a flex space that is used to create a Refugium.
What is a Refugium?
A refugium is usually a section in a sump that is reserved to in order to provide a place for certain organisms to survive. In general, these would be organisms like copepods, macroalgae, and certain inverts.
Why is this better than a Refugium?
A refugium is also usually used to grow macroalgae for nutrient control and be a place to grow copepods. An Algae Scrubber is actually great at both. It grows algae like crazy and copepods thrive inside the mesh of the scrubber. It is very common when you clean an algae scrubber that you can remove hundreds of amphipod and copepods from the scrubber. No other piece of equipment does a better job at growing them. This allows you to do more in the flex space of your sump.
Zeovit
Zeovit is a nutrient free solution that is touted in the reef aquarium industry.
What is a Zeovit System?
Zeovit is a system that produces an ultra low nurtrient system. It utilizes bacteria to eliminate nutrients at the initial source – Ammonia.
Why is an this better than a Zeovit system?
Zeovit systems are pretty complicated to setup and expensive. It is not a cookie cutter system and every system is different. Dosage and product needed for your system will differ. An algae scrubber on the other hand, is all about simplicity. It is easy to setup, easy to clean, and easy to get results.
Zeovit is really a product of the saltwater aquarium industry, which loves to market the latest and and greatest high-tech toys and solutions to hobbyists. It is a great product, as long as you can dial it in, but overly complex.
Natural and Simple
An algae scrubber is natural and simple and nature is not a solution that is going to be outdated or obsolete. Always do your research regardless of what you end up purchasing. Let us know your experience with equipment or any questions in the comments.
🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.
Twenty-five years in the saltwater hobby has given me a long list of things I wish someone had told me earlier. I’ve made expensive mistakes, watched beautiful tanks crash, and learned from both my own experiences and from the thousands of people I’ve interacted with through this site and our YouTube channel. When I put this list together, I wasn’t going for generic advice you’ll find anywhere online. These are the specific insights that actually changed how I approach reef keeping. things that would have saved me real money, real frustration, and a lot of lost livestock if I’d known them at the start.
First, I would like to say thank you for reading this post. This is going to be a long point about the 55 words of wisdom I wish I knew before I started a saltwater reef tank. This is a list I have been thinking about for some time. Each one of these things can be a post on its own but I feel placing these all on a single post is a great reference to anyone starting out the hobby or wants reminders on general advice on reefing.
So without further ado here is the list on a nice infographic:
Saltwater Reef Tank – 55 Words of Wisdom I Wish I Knew Before I Started
So now that you have seen the list, here is the detailed breakdown of every word of wisdom below:
#1 Knowledge Is Power
Knowledge plays a huge role in this hobby. What you know will dictate how you will grow your tank and how you grow in the hobby. Taking the time to read books, visit blogs like this one, and getting to know other hobbyists empowers you as a consumer and aquarium owner. If there is anything you takeaway from this blog entry, it is that knowledge is king in this hobby. It will save you time, headache, money, and increase your passion.
#2 Be Patient
This is a very hard lesson to learn even for advanced hobbyist. For a new aquarium keeper, it is very easy to get excited about building your saltwater reef tank and make changes very quickly. As an advanced hobbyist, sometimes we are attracted to deals we see locally or on-line. Other times we try to push the limits of tried and true knowledge.
At the end of the day we need to keep in mind that we are maintaining a delicate ecosystem in our aquariums. Every time we add something or make changes the system needs time to adjust. This is another lesson that sometimes we as hobbyists learn the hard way.
#3 A Family That Reefs Together Stays Together
If you have a family or a significant other, I highly encourage you to get them involved in your saltwater reef tank. Our hobby tends to be a very isolated one where one person does everything and your significant other is wondering why you are spending so much time on your tank, not talking and spending time with them, and why everything is so expensive.
Get them involved! Teach them everything you know and explain the inner workings of the aquarium and habitat. In the end, you will have a significant other that at a minimum will understand how to care for your tank or at least tolerates your passion. You may get lucky and convert your spouse to a full-fledged reef fanatic.
If you have children, this is a wonderful opportunity to teach your children all sorts of great life skills – trade skills from DIY projects, chemistry and biology lessons, responsibility, and discipline. Working with children when it comes to aquariums is a big passion of mine. I actually wrote up an article on FamilyShare.com detailing out various activities you can participate with a child.
#4 The Bigger the Better
Bigger is better in this hobby. A bigger tank = more volume and more stability. A bigger sump = more flexible space, more volume, and more stability. A bigger protein skimmer = more bio-load capacity (up to a point of course). A bigger RODI unit with more gallons per day means you can get fresh water faster. The list goes on and on. Get the biggest tank and highest rated equipment you can afford or fit in your space. If you can’t afford it yet, wait (See words of wisdom #2 – Be Patient).
Larger tanks with bigger equipment are easier to have success with. Don’t start off with a nano or pico reef tank. These tanks are best for experienced hobbyist. Learn more about sumps by looking at our best aquarium sumps and refugiums post.
#5 It is Going to be Expensive!
A saltwater reef tank, even a nano tank can easily cost over $1000 to setup. You can cut some costs down by purchasing a cheap used tank or getting frags from friends, but the simple fact is that saltwater tanks are expensive. On average, you will spend at least 3 times more than a freshwater aquarium. It will go up even more if you shoot for a mixed reef, SPS heavy tank, or want a Rimless Aquarium. Along with setup costs there will maintenance cost.
Electricity, dosing, salt, and food will all need to be accounted for. At the end of the day, keeping a reef tank is expensive so if you are not willing to spend the amount of money to have a successful one, it is probably a better idea to try a less expensive option like a freshwater community tank or an African Cichlid tankwith less expensive equipment like power filters or canisters filters. See our post to see what the best power filters and best canister filters are.
#6 You Are Going to Get Addicted
Any successful reef keeper has a high chance of getting addicted to this hobby. You become a successful reef keeper and have a great tank. Then you think about upgrading your tank so you move on to a larger one. Then you wonder what to do with the old tank so you decide to keep it and create different type of tank with it. Or you get into corals then move onto fragging them. Then you turn that old tank into a frag tank. Then your clownfish start spawning and you want to raise the fry so you create a fry tank.
Successful reefkeeping requires passion. Passion can turn into addiction. #eatsleepreef is one of the largest reefkeeping hashtags on Instagram for a reason :).
#7 Start Slow
Start slow and do not rush (remember #2 Be Patient). Nothing good in your saltwater reef tank happens overnight. In contrast, mostly bad things in your aquarium will happen quickly and overnight. Behind every tank of the month and showcase display tank there is a whole lot of work, research, time, and care put into it.
#8 Always Have RODI Water Ready
RODI systems have a gallon per day rating. If you have a low gallon per day output on your RODI system, you may be waiting for hours if you need the water in an emergency. You never know when you will need to do an emergency water change or you forgot to fill up your auto-top off container, etc. Have some RODI water ready. You can also use distilled water as a substitute in a pinch.
The great thing about distilled water is that you can purchase it at grocery stores, which tend to be open late on nights and weekends. There are a number of cheaper RODI units available these days that work for reef tanks including those made by LiqaGen:
Keep up with your water changes and maintain all your equipment. Clean out your skimmer, change out your GFOand carbon, keep your water topped off, clean your glass, clean your pumps, have dosing supplies and salt handy so you do not forget. It is really easy to fall behind on maintenance once you stop building your reef up and your tank hits stability. Do not fall into lazy reefers syndrome.
If worse comes to worse – considering hiring a professional to maintain your tank. It’s not worth it getting lazy and losing everything you worked so hard for.
#10 Refugiums Matter
In general, the first chamber of a sump is for a high quality protein skimmer and the third chamber is for the return pump. This leaves the middle chamber. The refugium chamber of a sump is the most important part of your sump. It can not only be a refugium, which you can use macro algae like cheato to suck up nutrients, but it is also the flex space in your sump. Some hobbyists today use the refugium space to house an algae turf scrubber. The bigger it is the better.
#11 When in Doubt – Don’t Do It!
This hobby is all about knowledge and research. If you are about to purchase something whether it is equipment or livestock and you have doubts, do not buy it. So many unnecessary livestock losses and money wasted on unneeded products can be prevented by using this rule.
#12 Don’t Spread Yourself Too Thin With Too Many Aquariums
Recall #6 when I said you will get addicted. This is where things can go wrong. In our circle, we call this multiple tank syndrome. You purchase multiple tanks and try to run them all at the same time. Don’t spread yourself too thin. The more tanks you have the less time you have to maintain each one. It’s better to focus on only one tank and if you get the itch to start up another tank, consider upgrading your current tank to a larger one instead.
This hobby is very addicting, but do not try to make it take over your entire life. I know for some of you reading this – it is probably too late :).
#13 Moving an Aquarium Sucks!
Take your time and be set on your decision of your tank location. I cover what to look for when determining your tank location in an another blog post. Having to move a tank after you made your location decision can be fairly painful, but it is nowhere as painful if you are actually needing to move to a new apartment or home. There are so many steps and factors to consider when you are moving your tank. It describes it in detail could create a blog post as large as this article. It is a complex task and many things need to be setup ahead of time as the clock starts ticking once you pull your inhabitants out of the tank and into storage containers.
If you are moving locally, take your time and research this carefully and have as much prepped beforehand. If you are moving out of state, consider selling your livestock or getting a professional to help and make sure you have references.
#14 Aquarium Clubs Are Here to Help
There are a group of people who cheer for your success in this hobby every day. They are the aquarium clubs and societies located throughout the country. With frequent local meetups, frag swaps, sponsored events, and tank showcases it is the place to go to really build relationships with other hobbyists who share your passion. It is also a great place to be mentored and even a better place to find a reliable tank sitter or someone who can help you drill a tank.
Forums are a great place to build up your knowledge, but it is also a great place for bad information. Some forums users will answer a question on a forum trying to be helpful, but they may not know the answer and may just throw one out to be helpful. In the end, the bad advice may hurt the hobbyist listening to it.
So how do you differentiate between the good and bad advice on the forum? There are few things to look for: time on the forum, past posts, do they have pictures of their own tank on the forum, etc. Look at the forum member’s profile and check out their pictures. Most established forums tend to call out bad information. My biggest concern these days are with Facebook groups. I have personally noticed these groups tend to give out more faulty info then forums.
#16 Going Without Plan to a Local Fish Store (LFS) is Deadly
Walking into a local fish store without a plan could be the deadliest thing you can do to your tank. Local fish stores promote sales all the time and it is very tempting to overstretch yourself and buy too many fish and corals at once because they have a great deal going on. Walking in without a plan invites impulse buying and as we learned in tips #1 and #2 knowledge and patience is critical for success. Plan first then go to the store and stick to your plan!
#17 Always Research Yourself Before Accepting What the LFS Says
Not all local fish stores are created equal. While there are a lot less of them these days because of online stores like us, there are still a number of bad ones out there. They can give you some pretty bad advice. I’ve seen it all over the years from suggesting Chalice Corals are great for nano tanks, that a panther grouper will be just fine in a 40-gallon breeder, to not pricing corals then inflating the piece on an unsuspecting customer.
Until you find a local fish store that you trust – always maintain your skepticism and research yourself before accepting what they tell you.
#18 Never EVER Compromise on Quality
There is an old saying in the saltwater reef tank hobby. “Buy cheap – buy twice or three times, buy expensive – buy once.” This rule applies to practically any type of equipment you purchase. Buy cheap pumps, they break and you have to replace them with better ones.
Buy a cheap heater, they could explode and you have to replace everything. Buy a cheap protein skimmer barely enough to support your tank, and you’ll like need to upgrade to an oversized high quality more expensive one. Buy a cheap lighting fixture without PAR figures or Spectrum stated, end up buying a high quality light to replace it.
I’ve learned this lesson the hard way when I was young. If you are thinking about going cheaper, consider being patient and saving up (see words of wisdom #2 – Be Patient). I have compiled a load of aquarium equipment reviews on this site for you to look at that does a lot of the homework of research for you.
#19 Get a Drilled Aquarium or Drill It Yourself
Getting a drilled tank and learning about plumbing can be really intimidating for a newcomer. You might consider going sump less or with a hang-on back overflow. While you can certainly have a successful tank without a sump, you sacrifice a lot of flexibility and storage by skipping out on one. Hang-on back overflows are considered by many hobbyists unreliable do to them siphoning water out in the event of failure. Learn more about the best overflow boxes readily available to purchase.
There are three ways to approach the drill tank issue. You can either purchase a reef ready tank and have the hole pre-made for you. You can drill yourself, which is actually not as hard as you think (and a hobbyist friend may likely do it for you if you ask). Or you can go with an all-in-one aquarium and just have the sump built into the aquarium. Either way, my personal thought is you miss out on too many benefits without drilling a tank and not having a sump.
#20 Aquarium Stand Height Matters
Most aquarium stands that you can purchase from a local chain store at are going to be less than 30 inches in height. They are designed so you can watch your aquarium while sitting. If you are a taller person or looking into a more shallow aquarium (24 inches and below), it is a good idea to consider a taller stand. There is a reason why manufacturers who make custom and premium brand aquarium stands start with stand heights at 36 inches and above.
Aquariums are a conversion place and usually enjoyed standing up.
#21 Sump Size is a Big Deal
Going with the concept of bigger is better – bigger is better, especially down below in the sump. Not having a big enough sump causes two problems. The first is that it limits the equipment space available for you to add-on. Second, an undersized sump would not hold enough volume to prevent an overflow in the event of a power outage or pump failure. Overlooking sump size can literally cost you hundreds in home repairs. See our Best Aquarium Sump review post for our expert picks.
#22 Only Use RODI Water
If you want to have a successful reef tank, you need to have a source of high quality water. You will want water that have 0 total dissolved solids (TDS). This prevents any excessive nutrients and toxic chemicals from entering your tank. This is the healthiest water for your fish and prevents nuisance algae growth. The best way to get this water is to invest in an RODI system. Some stores will sell just an RO unit, but only a RODI unit have the stages to produce 0 TDS water.
You can purchase RODI water from your local fish or use distilled water in the short term, but long term – a quality RODI unit is an investment that will stay with you throughout your saltwater reef tank hobby journey.
#23 Have Backup Equipment
While I encourage everyone to purchase high-quality equipment, the fact is that our equipment will eventually break down. Equipment could break down overnight or during the weekend when the local fish is closed or before you can get it delivered from an online store. A tank can crash quickly if a critical piece of equipment fails and you cannot replace it fast enough. There are three pieces of equipment you will always want to have a backup for:
It is an understatement to say that bad thing can happen quickly during a power outage. It is one of the top three reasons for a tank wipe out and many of us including myself have been a victim of a tank wipe out because of a power outage. It is a helpless feeling to see your tank and inhabitants degrade quickly and die off – it is one of the worst feelings in the hobby.
Literally, in hours a reef tank can go down quickly especially if the temperature is hot outside. There are two investments you want to make for a power outage – short term and long term.
Short term would be a battery backup that you can purchase at an office supply store. Get the biggest one you are comfortable spending for. It needs to be powerful enough to power your heater, a pump, and a fan. These short term battery backups will last you a few hours. You want to aim for at last 1-3 hours of backup time.
A long term power outage is handled by a gas generator. A decent generator like a Champion Generator will cost you about $250 — this is a sound investment if you have a sizable amount invested in your tank. Many of us who have established 4 foot long tanks easily will have over $2000 invested in the tank.
#25 LEDs Are Extremely Intense
LEDs have made great strides in the industry and saved reefers a lot of money in electrical cost. However, the top quality LED reef lights are extremely intense. Under full power, they can easily cook corals and raise the temperature of smaller tanks. Sure, it is cool to tell your reefing friends that you have the latest and greatest Radions, but know what you are getting yourself into before you decide to purchase these powerful lights.
Know what your corals require and prepare to lower their intensity. You can check out my earlier blog post about the Best Reef LEDs for more info.
#26 Stop LED Spectrum Confusion!
LEDs offer a ton of customization to determine what spectrum you want to set for your tank. Unfortunately, the vast amount of customization can also be a downfall for those new to the hobby. Either go with lights like Kessil who have done the spectrum work for you or start out with tried and true spectrum outputs from manufacturers like ATI. You can more about spectrum in my earlier blog post regarding Reef LED Spectrum.
#27 Aquarium Controllers Rock!
Many hobbyists will tell you that an aquarium controller is the best investment they have ever made. Reefing is not the same after you setup a controller. It has checks to make sure your tank is operating correctly, automates a bunch of tasks for you, and is a way to monitor your aquarium when you are outside of the home. Not only that, but a controller is scale-able to any aquarium. Once you have one, you can keep it with you if you upgrade and the resell value of well-known controllers like Neptune hold up very well.
#28 The Fishless Cycle – Shrimp Method
Back in the old days, there were two known ways of cycling a tank. Either you would purchase a few very hardy fish like Damels or you would purchase live rock and cycle your tank during the curing process. The first method was very cruel and the remaining Damels would be hostile to any new additions. The second method was messy, smelly, and could lead to various reef tank pests that you would have to deal with.
These days, there is fishless cycling. Usually, this is done by putting food in the tank and adding bacteria supplements. The best method in my mind is Melevsreef’s shrimp method. The shrimp method involves purchasing a jumbo headless shrimp from a grocery store, placing it in the aquarium for 3 days, and removing it. The decaying matter from the shrimp will start your cycle and you just measure levels until you have no ammonia and nitrites. It is a the simplest, cheapest, and sure fire way of cycling a tank.
#29 Your Tank Cycles Every Time You Add Livestock
Your Saltwater Reef Tank is a delicate ecosystem with a bacteria population that can support its current inhabitants. Every time you add additional bioload to the tank the bacteria in your system needs time to establish the population needed to support them. These means that your tank goes through another cycle. While not as long as your original, this concept is a must to understand and one of the main reasons things can go downhill quickly if you add too much livestock at once.
#30 Rinse Don’t Wash Before Putting Your Hands in Your Aquarium
You are going to put your hands in the tank, you may think about washing your hands before doing so. Don’t do it. Conventional soaps contain antibacterial chemicals that can harm your tank. Instead, just rinse your hands and arms up to the length you feel that will be touched by your aquarium water. Just rinse them with fresh water and paper towel dry them. Aqua gloves work great as well.
#31 Don’t Chase Aquarium Parameters
We see the list from forums and online sites listing ideal parameters. Yes, you should try to maintain your parameters, but do not obsess over it. Let your tank fall into its groove. Dose the proper amount to get within range, not exact. Inspect your tank to see if everything is healthy and keep up with your maintenance. Everyone’s tank is different – just stay in range and don’t obsess.
#32 Aquarium Test Kits are Not Created Equally
Recall word of wisdom #18 about never compromising on quality. Test Kits are not created equally. Those cheap test kits from Petco are not going to do the job for a saltwater reef tank. Look for high grade saltwater test kits like Salifert, Red Sea, and Hanna.
#33 Supplement, Wait, Then Adjust
When you are initially getting started on a dosing schedule, start slow. It is better to supplement less then more or the recommended amount to start. Work your way up slowly and wait a week before making any adjustments to the schedule. Also, if you do not test for the supplement you are dosing – do not dose it.
#34 Don’t Worry About Trying to Grow Coralline Algae
This is common for newcomers to the hobby. You will get all amped up about growing that purple algae and buy stuff like purple up. Coralline algae is actually quite easy to grow once your tank stabilizes. All it needs is consistent calcium and alkalinity levels – which can be done by consistent water changes. Don’t buy that purple up, just get a good rock from a trusted reef keeper that you know, keep up with your maintenance, and let nature takes its course. After a few months, you’ll be wishing it wouldn’t grow on your aquarium glass.
#35 Dry Rock Rules!
Aquarium Dry Rock Rules! There are so many advantages to using dry rock instead of live rock. You can cut it and shape the rock, you can aquascape it freely, it has zero pests, it saves the wild reef, and it is cheaper. Get a piece of coralline encrusted rock from a friend when you are ready to introduced coralline or purchase a colored dry rock like Caribsea Reef Rock.
Do be careful about starting too sterile as this can result in dinoflagellates. You might want to consider getting some donation live rock from your aquarium club or a friend when you first cycle your tank.
#36 People With Awesome Looking Aquarium Scenes
It is not as simple as getting a bunch of rock and putting it into the tank to create a great looking scape. Several featured tank of the months on forums you see are masterfully aquascaped through a lot of planning. Rockwork is drilled, cut, epoxied, and chiseled. It is usually done with aquarium dry rock and the rockwork is laid out on card board to visualize the aquascape. It is an artwork in itself.
#37 Epoxying Rocks is a Dirty Secret for Bare Bottom Aquarium
You have likely seen several incredible looking bare bottom tanks or even tanks with floating rocks. How do they do it? Well, they epoxy their rocks down during the aquascaping process. The biggest risk in a bare bottom tank is the lack of cushion and rocks can damage the glass if it takes a hard enough tumble. With sand beds we have a little cushion and some reef hobbyists will use eggcrate for an additional safeguard.
With a barebottom tank there is no cushion so the best safeguard is to epoxy down the rocks to ensure they do not slide, slip, or fall.
#38 Beware Buying Livestock Secondhand!
You likely have seen it on craigslist. A killer deal on a fully setup saltwater reef tank with fish and coral included. Buyer beware! First off, moving a fully stock tanked is a ton of work as explained in words of wisdom #13. Second, if you purchase the rock every mistake that previous owner make is going to be inherited with your purchase. Third, you have no idea of the condition of the fish. Yes, they could look healthy but just like at the local fish store you never know.
All these fish should be quarantined before placing in a display tank. All this work and caution alone just makes me avoid them. Have the local fish store take their stuff or have a quarantine tank ready.
#39 Know How to Select a Fish
Knowing how to select a fish goes hand in hand with the next point below. Is thefish compatible with what you already have? How big will it get? Is it reef safe? What does it eat? Once you have that down it’s time to look for physical signs. Is the fish swimming well, does it have puffy lips, any white spots, are the fins intact, does it have any cuts, is the fish’s thick instead of thin.
The last thing to look for does it eat. Never buy a fish from a fish store unless you see it eat at the store. If it is not eating, you are going to have a hard time during the quarantine process keeping them healthy. Online stores can be difficult to purchase from because you never see the fish. You will want to research the store’s reputation from reviews and forums about the quality of the shipped livestock to get the best idea.
#40 Quarantine Your Fish
Not quarantining your fish is asking for trouble. It’s like playing Russian roulette. Anyone who has been in this hobby long enough and has not quarantined fish has likely losses lots of money from preventable diseases that could have been avoided from quarantining.
All it takes is one fish that you add in your tank with ich or marine velvet to infect your entire tank. After the tank has been wiped out, you then you have to wait several weeks for the disease to pass (or worse with marine velvet – several months). There are four tried and methods for quarantining fish that I have detailed out in my How To Quarantine Fish Series:
Hypersaliny Method
Copper Method
Chloroquine Phosphate Method
The Tank Transfer Method
Save yourself the future pain of loss and invest in a quarantine tank. You can prepare for one now if you have a tank already by placing a sponge in your sump.
#41 Don’t Buy a Fish Your System Cannot Handle
If you have a nano tank, do not go buying a Unicorn Tang. Yes, you may think to yourself now I will just get a bigger tank when they get larger, but the reality is things may change in your life in the next year or so where you may no longer be in the market for that upgrade. If you have a small tank, purchase fish that stay small.
If you have a reef tank, do not purchase butterfly fish. If you have small fish, do not buy a grouper or a lion fish. Do the research for the sake of your fish, wallet, and sanity. Sticking to what you know will work with what you have right now is what you need to be aiming.
#42 Don’t Buy a Saltwater Fish Because It Looks Cool
As a novice, we were all guilty at this at some point. Every now and then the local fish store will stock a rare fish or an exotic fish like a Moorish Idol. It’s hard to resist the urge, but don’t do it. Always research first and make sure you know what the fish needs. Also, don’t buy a fish because you see it as a character in a movie (I’m taking to you Finding Nemo and Finding Dory fans). Know what you are getting into.
#43 Damsels Suck and So Do Large Clownfish
Some of you may have gone to a local fish store already and heard from the rep that damsels are good starter fish because they are hardy. My advice – don’t do it. Most damsels suck. They are highly aggressive and will harass future inhabitants you want to introduce later on. They are also a huge pain to get out of the aquarium once they become problematic.
The same goes with large clownfish like Maroon Clownfish. Maroon clowns not only get large, but they are just as aggressive as damsels. Clownfish are part of the damsel family after all.
If you are thinking about adding a damsel, place check out my blog post about less aggressive damsels and how to add them properly.
#44 Respect the Tang Police
The Tang Police has a polarizing reputation in the saltwater aquarium community. For those of you who do not know, a Tang is one of the larger fish you can add to your aquarium. Most the most part, Tangs are the fish that catch many hobbyist eyes. They are active, herbivores, and wonderful fish to have. Given their size, they really should only be placed in tanks at minimum 4 feet in length for smaller tangs — and 6 feet for many others.
Some hobbyist think the tang police are overreaching, judgmental, and ruthless. Others think they are protecting the well being of these beautiful fish and protecting you from serious mistakes. My take is both sides have a point.
Part of being a successful reef aquarist is having patience and restraint, knowing the limits of your aquarium system and making the best decisions for your long-term success and the well-being of your animals. Make your own decision where you stand, but respect the tang police.
#45 Your Fish Don’t Need That Much Food
Fish are greedy – that’s a simple fact. They will greet every time and give you this sad little look begging you to feed them. Growing up as a kid with a reef tank, this was a daily struggle with my father who couldn’t help himself and feed the fish every time they gave him the little puppy dog eyes.
The fact of the matter is that fish do not need much food. You could only feed what your fish can consume quickly and completely. no extra food should be left at the bottom of the tank. Often for nutrient dense foods like pellets, a pinch is all that is needed. Reef tanks will also produce copepods, amphipods, and algae that many fish will eat. There is plenty of food to go around and overfeeding will just lead to excessive nutrients for algae growth that you do not want.
#46 Don’t Add Fish Too Fast
Recall point #2 about being patient. You can do a ton of damage to your tank by adding fish too fast. Adding too fast will throw off the balance in your bacteria cycle, overload your bioload, cause all sorts of algae blooms from the spike in nutrients, introduce disease due to the added stress, and worse cause a tank crash. Just remember – be patient and go slowly. Do not end up like this lady below:
#47 Don’t Hand Feed Your Fish
If you have fish like a trigger or an eel, just play it safe and don’t hand feed them. As cool as it is to have them eat out of your hand, it’s a very painful lesson when they bite your fingers. Eels have very poor slight and your finger can be mistaken for food. The most aggressive triggers like Clown Triggers should not be trusted for hand feedings. All full grown Clown Trigger jaw’s are powerful enough to bite off your finger. Be smart and use a feeding stick.
#48 Take Extreme Measures When a Fish Gets Sick
I have seen it happen way too many times. A fish gets sick and the aquarium owner tries to treat the display tank or they get one of those new age medications that is invert safe or they buy garlic or a cleaner wrasse. I say no to all of that. If a fish gets sick – EVERYTHING gets pulled out of the tank. Fish all go into quarantine and inverts are pulled into their own tank. All I leave in the tank are the rocks and the coral. I do not mess around with medications – I go straight with what works.
Copper or Chloroquine Phosphate for Ich and Marine Velvet. Treat the fish for at least six weeks. If a fish gets sick again, the clock resets. The time is needed to give the display tank time for the infection to starve itself out and time to remove the sickness from your fish. Any sickness a fish gets is potentially deadly to them. Therefore quick and decisive action is a must!
#49 You Don’t Need as Big as a Clean-up Crew That Stores Claim You Need
Your clean-up crew needs change as your tank gets mature and stocked. Clean up crew sellers will often sell you a full package of cleaners for your tank containing various snails, hermits, etc. My advice to you is do not purchase these packages. You actually do not need as much as they sell. In fact, most of these packages are large because there is a high likelihood that you will lose several of your members.
Most of the time, your tank is not ready for the amount of inverts these packages have and your crew will slowly starve itself out. Instead, just purchase 1 emerald crab and get a few reliable Trochus snails to start out and slowly increase from there. You can learn more about great clean up crew members in my previous post. You can also reduce the need for clean up members by using algae in your sump or a algae turf scrubber.
#50 Dip Your Corals
If you want to prevent coral pests from entering your tank from your coral purchases dipping your corals is a must. There are two ways to dip. You can purchase a specialized dip like Coral RX Coral Dip Pro or you can dip with Bayer Advanced Insect Killer. The Coral RX method is pretty well known and the Bayer method is more advanced.
Either one works great – just make sure you dip. If anything falls out of your corals consider quarantining or returning it. It is even better if you quarantine your corals regardless, but not everyone is willing to do this. You will regret not if you end up with an annoying pest like Asterina Starfish.
#51 Frags Rule!
If you want variety, cheaper corals, and want to experience your reef growing over time, then frags are the way to go. Frags are readily available either through a local store or club frag swaps. It is such a great way to start out and grow in the hobby. You can also make your own Frag Tank and sell or trade corals with others! They are also much easier to handle and place where you want in your aquascaping because of their size. Just remember to leave enough space for everyone to grow.
#52 Don’t Buy a Coral Because It Looks Cool
This is so tempting to do when you are at a local fish store looking at the newest additions or seeing a rare coral in the WYSIWYG section online store. Research first, know what parameters it needs, the lighting, the flow needed, how aggressive it is etc. Also, buy corals in baby steps. If you are not growing basic corals, do not buy the advanced ones. If you only have soft corals don’t go jumping into Acropora SPS corals until you have more experience.
#53 Some Corals Grow Like Weeds and are Invasive
This is a tough lesson some of us have learned when we purchased bullet proof corals. Corals like green star polyps, pulsing xenias, and mushrooms are known for their high reproduction rates. When they are happy, they have the ability to spread like crazy in your tank and can easily take over the entire tank like this picture above of these pulsing Xenias. If you are thinking about getting these types of corals, make sure you know what you are getting yourself into.
#54 Carpet Anemones Suck
Don’t get me wrong carpet anemones are pretty cool and look great in a tank, but they are known for being poor shippers. The ones that do survive shipping can turn out to be deadly additions to your tank. They get very large and have voracious appetites. Many hobbyists who have tried to keep them quickly find out their anemone is a death trap for fish and inverts.
Large fish are not even safe. Once an carpet anemone stings its victim, the tissue damage caused by the sting leaves virtually no chance for the victim to survive. The sting is extremely potent. Check out this video of a carpet anemone eating a blue powder tang as an example:
Carpet Anemones should only be attempted by an advanced aquarist if not just left in the wild.
I know many coral fragging tutorial videos do not show safety equipment, but keep in mind that many of these recordings are done by experts or people who have been cutting frags for a long time.The most common hazard is getting coral juices and chucks in your eyes, but a word of caution of you are fragging zoanthids. Zoanthids contain a toxic called palytoxin, which is considered to be one of the most toxic non-protein substances known.
Play it safe and wear razor proof nitrile gloves, eye protection, and a breathing mask. You can call me overly cautious if you like – but I believe in safety first.
Final Thoughts
Wow that was a long post wasn’t it :). Well, I hope you enjoyed reading this blog post and took away some words of wisdom. As always, please share and subscribe to our newsletter to gave more great articles like this and specials from our store. If you have any tips you would like to share, please leave us a comment below. Thanks for reading and see you next time!
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