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  • Chloroquine Phosphate – The Aquarium Fish Treatment That’s Not a COVID Cure

    Chloroquine Phosphate – The Aquarium Fish Treatment That’s Not a COVID Cure

    I’m really frustrated and tired of the news about Chloroquine Phosphate. There is so much bad information about Chloroquine Phosphate it has gotten to the point where it’s affecting my business. I’ve been in the marine fish keeping industry for over 20 years. I’ve used this substance on marine fish in quarantine for ages. I’ve been quietly speaking its praises to my fellow hobby club and group members. It’s been my secret weapon for years in battling the most deadly marine fish diseases over the years.

    It is a sad day for me today. Today, I had to take down my Choloroquine Phosphate product from my store. I can no longer sell it, and it all started with a generic announcement that became a bad news story. I tried to dispense with the myth that it was a cure for COVID. I was even on the news to talk about it. I was verbally abused by prospective customers through live chat and the phone because I refused to sell the product to them after they openly admitted to me that they were planning to use it for human consumption. I was threatened 3 times by my merchant provider to take off my product from my store or face losing my merchant account and getting my site completely shut down.

    Today enough is enough, the product is getting de-listed. But I’m not simply going away. I redirected my old product to this page to educate folks on what Choloquine Phosphate REALLY is, why it’s an amazing product FOR FISH, and my story as to why I ultimately ended up pulling it from my store. So sit down, relax, and enjoy my story. It’s going to be a doozy!

    What Is It?

    Chloroquine Phosphate, is an antiprotozoal drug used by marine and aquarium hobbyists to treat fish suffering from Cryptocaryon (Marine Ich), Marine Velvet, Brooke, and Uroema.

    Chloroquine Phosphate is so well regarded in the marine hobby that it was covered by Advanced Aquarist as a wonder drug. It became the drug of choice for many public aquariums including the Georgia Aquarium. It has been widely used by hobbyists in the early days of the marine aquarium hobby and used in the aquaculture industry since the 70s and 80s.

    It is typically unavailable to the majority of the reefing community due to it normally being available through a Veterinarian via a prescription. As you can imagine, it can be very difficult to obtain a prescription for this wonderful medication as there are not many fish vets available who know about the medication or would be willing to prescribe it.

    How I Got Started With It

    I started the reefing hobby in the late 90s and was a member of the local aquarium club in my area at the time. I was introduced to the process of quarantining marine fish after having several issues with Marine Velvet. Chloroquine Phosphate became an amazing medication. The biggest advantage to it versus copper was that it would work with zero ramp up. This was a huge development because Marine Velvet and Brooke work very quickly against a marine fish. Within 24-48 hours, most fish will die from getting overwhelmed from these diseases.

    Chloroquine Phosphate was simply amazing. I never lost a battle with Marine Velvet using this medication. Back then, it was easy to obtain this medication without a prescription because there was this amazing product from Aquatronics called Marex. Marex had just enough pure Cholorquine Phosphate to be effective and also was inexpensive. It was also available without a vet’s prescription. It was my go to until Aquatronics went out of business in the early 2000s.

    I have been a promoter of this medication for many years, so much that I have a blog post on how to quarantine fish that details how to use the product. You can see my video below.

    How I Got Started With Selling 

    After Aquatonics went out of business, I was frustrated on how I couldn’t get this medication. The vets around me had no clue what I was talking about and I was hearing more and more that vets weren’t prescribing it anymore. You had to go to a vet who either specialized in marine fish or koi ponds to get the medication. There simply weren’t that many vets around who specialized in fish. So where could I get this medication so I could have a chance against the deadly 3 (Marine Velvet, Brooke, Uroema)?

    This is when I found out about Fish Pharmacies. They sold medications to public aquariums and aquaculture facilities who needed the medication to cure their livestock. I was amazed that I could get this medication from them, but the amount they sell you in bulk was quite a lot. You would have to purchase a kilogram at a time while most marine fish keepers would maybe need 50-100 grams max in their medication drawers to get what they need.

    I had my stash of Cholorquine Phosphate for my incoming fish for my reef tank. I heard so much on the reefing forums of people racking their brains trying to fight off Marine Velvet with Seachem Copper. It was sad to see so many people fail. Copper is tricky to use while Cholorquine was a one-time medication then you just replace with more medication as you change water. Super easy!

    As I heard more and more about people losing fish to marine velvet, I started to sell Cholorquine Phosphate on this site. I had a certificate of analysis showing 99.9% purity of the product. I was the only seller on the web that had such a certificate at the time.

    Chloroquine Phosphate Certificate of Analysis

    As the availability of Cholorquine Phosphate became more scarce, I started to obtain the medication through labs that would sell to universities. Since I had a commercial license, I was able to procure the product. I was rocking and rolling selling to customers who were saving marine fish life everyday with this wonder fish medication. It was really rewarding getting the emails thanking me for selling them the medication.

    COVID-19 And “Chloroquine”

    COVID-19 has been a mess for everyone. My own business was affected not just with the general downturn of the economy, but the affect on prices on livestock in the marine hobby. Price for fish and corals skyrocketed 2 -3 x times their usual price as imports closed up and supply became restricted. My fish medication product also became part of the news cycle when the President of the US announced that the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) had approved the use of hydroxychloroquine against COVID-19.

    Unfortunately, the President and most of the media shortened the name of the drug to Chloroquine. In came all the new articles talking about Chloroquine and how it would aid in the fight against COVID-19. Search results exploded for everything Chloroquine. Everyone wanted their hands on it.

    It became very easy to confuse the abbreviation Chloroquine with Chloroquine Phosphate. The price of this well loved fish medication exploded overnight. Once an affordable medication, Chloroquine Phosphate was all of a sudden selling for over $400 for only 10 grams. People wanted to use it for human consumption.

    I started getting messaged on my live chat from people asking me if they could use this medication on humans. I told them that it is a fish medication and it is not for human consumption. I got several angry messages in my live chat when I refused to sell them batches of the medication as they openly said they were going to use it on loved ones affected by the virus.

    My Interview With NBC News

    This was starting to get crazy. I was contacted by a BBC journalist who wanted to talk about the product I sold in my store. They had told me that a man had died ingesting this medication in Arizona. I was horrified and concerned for the public health. I was also cringing when I read the article and it mentioned that the product was a fish tank cleaner (it’s a medication not a fish tank cleaner). They asked me if I was interested in being interviewed on TV about my experience. I was happy to do so. I wanted to dispel the myths about this medication.  I spent about 2 hours in meetings with BBC and then my interview was displayed on NBC News.

    I felt much better getting the word out. I had chosen to place the medication product as out of stock in my store when I first heard of the FDA announcement. I had a feeling that it would get confused. I was planning to keep it out of stock until this COVID-19 mess was behind us. I wasn’t ready about what was going to happen next…

    Shopify Threatens To Shut Down My Store

    A couple of weeks passed since my interview with NBC. I was getting ramped up on some new content I was writing and went to check my email. I got a notice from Shopify that my product was removed from my store. The product was marked as high risk due to it being related to the Coronavirus. They sent me a notice stating that there was a risk that I was price gouging and had to provide proof that this wasn’t the case. They wanted to me to provide proof of my historical price of the product and also prove that a major retailer sold the product near the price I sold mine for. I was surprised that my store was threatened to be shut down thinking I was price gouging. I never increased my prices and had positive reviews for my product. I explained myself to Shopify and got everything lifted.

    A few days later after my product went offline, it was pulled again for the same reason. I responded to the risk department with all my past communication. I took it further and gave them the interview link to my talk with NBCNews. They apologized and I was listed again. I was told all was good after that.

    Shopify Labels My Product As A Pharmaceutical 

    A few weeks past. My site was getting a curiously high amount of traffic since my interview. Likely due to folks landing on my product page and seeing my product in the search results. Things were looking pretty good for me. I was having a great month despite the lockdown orders and my biggest challenge was supply chain restrictions. I woke up one morning and received another letter from Shopify.

    This letter was a bit different. I was having my payments held because Shopify’s risk department had labeled my product a Pharmaceutical. Looking at the terms of service, the fish medication product I sold was being placed under regulated or illegal products or services. This labeled my product as no different than cannabis dispensaries, tobacco sales, age restricted goods or services, weapons, etc. I was floored.

    I tried to explain the situation to the risk department. They said my best course of action would be to find another merchant supplier who would be willing to work with my product. This put me in a tough spot. I had my payments withheld during this time and no merchant services provider that was referred to me was answering emails or picking up the phone due to staff reductions related to COVID-19. I was a rock in a hard place.

    Since I couldn’t get anyone on the phone and there was risk that this could happen again, I decided to remove my product permanently from my store. I felt bad for my past customers who came to rely on this product to save their sick fish. There wasn’t much else I could do.

    What It Isn’t

    Now that you know the story and why I won’t relist my product. Let’s talk about what Choloroquine Phosphate isn’t.

    It Is Not Fish Tank Cleaner

    I have no idea where the news got this information from. It is not used to clean fish tanks. While it does have anti-algae properties, its primary purpose is as a antiprotozoal medication. I said this in my talks with BBC, but for some reason it never showed up in the news article or the interview.

    It Is Not A Medication for COVID-19

    It was hydroxychloroquine that was approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. They are two completely different drugs. Cholorquine Phosphate is used for humans to treat malaria. The brand name for the drug is called Aralen. Is not the same thing that I sold. My product was the substance in it’s purest form. The drug designed for humans is not pure Choloroquine Phosphate. This is likely why that poor man in Arizona died ingesting it. He had likely overdosed on the drug.

    The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) Warns Against Using It

    On March 27, 2020, the FDA sent an public health letter to stakeholders warning to not use use Chloroquine Phosphate intended for fish as treatment for COVID-19 in humans. The FDA closed the letter with the following:

    People should not take any form of chloroquine unless it has been prescribed by a licensed public health care provider and is obtained through a legitimate source.

    You can find the full letter here. Amazingly enough, the letter itself did not receive much news coverage.

    What It Is

    Let’s talk about what this medication is for fish. It is

    • Superior to and more gentle on fish than copper
    • A 10 Gram bottle treats 250 gallons at a 40mg/gallon dosage
    • Chloroquine Phophate (CP) is the drug of choice for diseases like Ich (Cryptocaryon irritans), Marine Velvet Disease (Amyloodinium), Brooklynella hostilis, & Uronema marinum
    • One time medication – only replace medication in the event of a water change
    • Chloroquine Phosphate acts as an algaecide eliminating algae in the quarantine tank.

    How to Use It On Fish

    Since my product got taken down, I’m going to use the how to use instructions that were on my product page for anyone who attempts to use this on their fish.

    • For Quarantine (Prophylactic) Treatment – Typical dosage for quarantine is 40mg/Gallon
    • When dosing Chloroquine Phosphate, treat water with a pre-dissolved solution using a cup of tank water
    • For Ich – 30 day active treatment
    • For Velvet – 14 day active treatment
    • For active infection – up to 60mg/gallon
    • For Uroema – up to 80mg/gallon
    • Highly recommended that you use a digital scale to measure your dosage to ensure accuracy
    • Keep medication in a cool, dark, and dry pace. Chloroquine Phosphate is heat and light sensitive
    • If a water change is performed, Chloroquine Phosphate will need to be re-dosed for the amount of water changed. You do not need to dose Chloroquine for top off water.

    Additional Warnings about Using It On Fish

    Here are the additional notes and warnings that were on my product page that I’m displaying for anyone looking into this medication.

    • NOT RECOMMENDED FOR PIPEFISH, PUPPERS, LIONFISH, SEAHORSES, WRASSES, ANTHIAS, & BLUE HIPPO TANGS!
    • Not reef safe – Chloroquine Phosphate is meant to be used in a quarantine for prophylactic treatment or in a hospital tank for active infections.
    • No one ships Chloroquine Phosphate next day If you have an infected fish and you need treatment now I highly recommended going to your LFS and obtaining Copper. Most of the diseases Chloroquine phosphate treats are extremely deadly and can kill a fish overnight

    Closing Thoughts

    I’m sad to no longer offering this life saving treatment for what I call the deadly 3 marine fish diseases. Hopefully COVID-19 gets past us sooner than later and we can all return to normal. I hope clinical trials go well with the vaccine being developed. Maybe we will see Chloroquine Phosphate offered again as a treatment for marine fish diseases in the future. Right now, the supply chain is on hold due to concerns that people will use it for human consumption. Stay safe. My thoughts are with you all. We will all come out of this stronger. Take care and thank you for reading.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Saltwater Fish & Reef Guide. your ultimate resource for marine fish, coral care, reef setup, and more.

  • How to Set up a Freshwater Shrimp Tank: The Ultimate Guide

    How to Set up a Freshwater Shrimp Tank: The Ultimate Guide

    A dedicated shrimp tank is different from a fish tank in almost every way. No copper-based medications. No aggressive tankmates. No sudden parameter swings.

    A shrimp tank is not a fish tank with shrimp in it. Build it for the shrimp or watch them die.

    Freshwater Shrimp tanks are getting very popular these days. Shrimp with their small size, active nature, and appealing personality has increased in popularity, especially with nano or smaller tanks. Shrimp tanks have some special considerations though to be successful. They is intimating at first because they is more delicate than fish and require a bit more planning than first.

    That is not to say they are difficult to keep. In fact, most shrimp are relatively easy to keep, they just require proper planning. That’s what this article is for – to get you on the right track. In this article, I will discuss everything you need to know to get started right.

    Key Takeaways

    • A sponge filter is the go-to for most shrimp tank keepers
    • If you are going the planted tank route, you must ensure your substrate and fertilizers do not contain copper as it could kill your shrimp
    • TDS meters are beneficial to determine if your source water is okay. Consider RO or RODI + mineralizing if your TDS is too high
    • Tank mates are tricky as many fish will prey on shrimp. If they don’t prey on the adult shrimp, they will likely eat the baby shrimp

    Freshwater Shrimp Tank Equipment – Getting The Proper Equipment

    Below is a video from our YouTube Channel all about how to setup a freshwater shrimp tank. We go over more details in our blog post below. If you like our content, be sure to subscribe.

    The first step is figuring out what we need exactly to get started. Let’s start with the biggest consideration – the tank itself.

    Tank Size

    Bigger is better and more stable. Although shrimp can technically survive in a very small aquarium, the water is prone to fluctuations in parameters and temperatures. This can lead to premature death of shrimp. Shrimp do not like a lot of parameter fluctuations in their tank. In addition, healthy freshwater shrimp will actively breed, meaning you want a bigger tank to support the offspring.

    Shrimp Tank Size

    There is also a drawback with going too big. Too big with how small the shrimp are will make your aquarium look underwhelming. Due to this, I would recommend not going larger than 40 gallons with 20 – 29 gallons being an ideal sweet spot to start. A 2 foot long tank will be the cheapest overall to setup.

    If you are looking for a cheap used tank, you will need to do some extra diligence when shopping around. Any used tank that has been treated with copper is going to be a major problem with freshwater shrimp. Copper will leech from the silicon seems in a used aquarium and will kill off new additions to your tank. It is critical that you purchase a used tank that has never been treated with copper to ensure long-term success.

    Filtration

    Editor’s Choice
    Hikari Bacto Surge Sponge Filter

    The Best Sponge Filter

    With a name brand and high quality reputation, the Bacto Surge separates itself from the pack

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    Freshwater Shrimp filtration gets a little more complicated with shrimp as you have to account for shrimp fry then the general small nature of Shrimp. A filter can easily suck up shrimp babies and even adults. It is easy to modify your filters to prevent this though., shrimps tanks go with one of the following:

    We do not consider Canister Filters with freshwater shrimp. It’s just overkill for this application. Internal filters could work, but the sponge filter is just a great choice to use if you are going internal. If you are going with a Hang On Back Filter, you can’t go wrong with an Hagen Aquaclear Filter.

    • Sponge Filter – Cheap, easy, and not dangerous to shrimp out of the box. Many shrimp breeders use these in their tanks because they are so easy to use and they work!
    • Hang On Back (HOB) Filter – Also known as power filters. These are excellent choices, but you have to modify your intake to prevent any accidents. I would suggest you place a sponge pre-filter on your intake in order to prevent any losses.

    Heating

    An Aquarium Heater is a controversial subject among shrimp keepers, especially those who keep Neocaridina Shrimp, which can live in cooler water. Ideally, you will want your freshwater shrimp in water temperatures of 70 – 79 degrees Fahrenheit though many breeders will say that a heater is not exactly needed with Neocardina shrimp as long as your area does not get too cold during the winter. For heaters, I would recommend Eheim Jagers.

    Substrate

    With Aquarium Substrate, we have to consider either going with an inert or active substrate. An inert substrate will not affect our water parameters, but will require more supplementation to maintain plants. An active substrate is more suited for shrimp that need softer water, like Caridina shrimp. You will also have more success with active substrate growing rooted plants as nutrients will be available through the substrate. If you are going with an active substrate, consider going with ADA Aquasoil or Fluval Stratum, which is designed for freshwater shrimp.

    Best Value
    Fluval Stratum

    Best Value

    A cheaper and beginner friendly alternative to ADA Soil. Also great for shrimp tanks!

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    If we are looking at shrimp that like KH, like Neocaridina shrimp, you may want to consider an inert substrate. I would recommend CaribSea EcoComplete if you are looking for an inert substrate.

    If you go with an active soil, keep in mind that your cycle time will be longer. Active soil will produce a lot of ammonia when new and freshwater shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia spikes. Be patient with your cycle and introduce your shrimp when parameters have stabilized.

    Plants

    Anubias

    Anubias is hardy and more fish and inverts won’t bother it. An excellent choice for beginners!

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    Shrimp thrive on planted tanks and there are several good choices for freshwater shrimp. Here are several that will work well with your shrimp inhabitants:

    If you are going with an active substrate, you can consider carpet plants like Monte Carlo. Duckweed and Rotalas do a very good job at protecting your shrimp from high nitrate spikes as they tend to explode in growth when nutrients are high. Also stay on top of your pruning and leaf clean up to prevent decaying matter build up in your aquarium.

    Lighting

    Freshwater Shrimp and lighting is pretty simple. You can use any decent Planted Tank LED system and you should be able to house the main plants listed. For the best features, I would recommend the Serene RGB Pro LED light if it’s in your budget.

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

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    Test Kits

    There are several parameters we will want to keep an eye when shrimp keeping. These will be:

    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate
    • pH
    • GH
    • KH
    • TDS

    Ammonia, Nitrite are very important to measure when you get started with your tank. As you tank matures, you will mostly worry about your nitrate levels. PH, GH, and KH need to be regularly tested in order to ensure they stay stable with your desired shrimp.

    TDS is a new parameter to test when it comes to shrimp keeping. TDS is a measure of total dissolved solids in water. Too much TDS can affect the health of your shrimp and some shrimp are so sensitive, it is more ideal to use water from an RODI System and then re-materialize the water with a supplement like Shrimp Mineral. Below is a chart that lists out the range of TDS levels for specific types of shrimp:

    NameOptimal TDSLimits
    Bamboo Shrimp150. 200100. 300
    Snowball Shrimp150. 20080. 300
    Ghost Shrimp150. 200100. 400
    Amano Shrimp150. 200100. 400
    Cherry Shrimp150. 200100. 400
    Cardinal Shrimp10050. 150
    Blue Tiger Shrimp180. 220100. 300
    My Pick
    HM Digital TDS Meter

    Readily available online, this TDS Meter is perfect for ensuring your levels are optimum for your shrimp

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    TDS Meters are readily available online and do a great job at getting accurate readings for you. Make sure when you are testing for TDS, that you test your other parameters as well. Everything affects TDS so just measuring TDA alone is not sufficient! Check out our posts on Aquarium Test Kits for more recommendations on test kits. For KH and HG tests, an API Test Kit should work for most shrimp keepers.

    Parameters for Neocaridina are as follows:

    • pH: 6.5 – 7.5
    • KH: 1-4
    • GH: 6-8
    • TDS – 80-200
    • Water Temp: 65 – 73 F

    Parameters for Caridina shrimp are as follows:

    • pH: 6.2 – 6.6
    • KH: 2-6
    • GH: 4-8
    • TDS: 80-100
    • Water Temp: 70 – 73 F

    Keep in mind these are general guidelines. Caridina and their bee varieties can have various ideal parameters so you will want to do your research accordingly!

    How To Set Up

    I’m going to borrow a video from my good friend Aaron from Aaron’s Aquatics. This video shows an example setup and the start up process. Aquascaping for Shrimp Tanks are best using the Iwagumi style aquascape. This is because the large rocks create mountain that are still smooth for shrimp to venture around on. Cholla wood is also great to use for shrimp. Aaron’s video also has a few other recommendations like Catappa Leaves.

    Species – Choosing The Right Ones

    So you heard me earlier in this post talk about Neocaridina and Caridina shrimp. I’m going to focus on these two types of shrimp in this post.

    Neocaridina shrimp are going to be hardier than Cardina shrimp. They are a hardwater species and like KH, which means them best for an inert substrate. If the Neocardina shrimp, the Cherry Shrimp is the most beginner friendly and has the most variety.

    Beginner Friendly
    Cherry Shrimp

    Great red color and very hardy. Cherry shrimp are the best beginner shrimp for shrimp tanks

    Click For Best Price Buy In Bulk

    Cherry Shrimp have grades that are easy to follow with Red Cherry being the lowest grade and Painted Fire Red being the highest. Their grades are as follows:

    • Cherry
    • Sakura
    • Fire Red
    • Painted Fire Red

    Each grade is more rare and more expensive than the other. Cherry shrimp will  breed and grow quickly.

    Other examples include Yellow, Blue Dream, and Green. All come from the Neocardina Davidi species. You can get multiple colors, but be aware that over time they will cross bred and you will have hybrids. A variety only tank is more ideal to keep consistent colors.

    Snow White Bee Shrimp

    Caridina shrimp are a soft water, more delicate species of shrimp. They tend to be imported from other countries making them larger when shipped and more prone to die off for a variety of reasons that I will explain later. Caradia shrimp and bring in some exotic colors and adapt better to active soils like ADA Aquasoil because they prefer softer water and tend to fit better in a professional level planted tank because the plants one will go for will demand softer water. Caradina shrimp are highly sensitive to parameter fluctuations and the reason why shrimp tend to get labeled as hard to keep in our industry. One common Caradina shrimp is an Amano shrimp.

    There is another type of shrimp that is available called Sulawesi shrimp. These are exotic shrimp that imported. They have high mortality rates when shipping and are an advanced care shrimp to keep.

    Here is a simple chart below on Neocardina and Caradina shrimp varieties:

    Neo CaridinaCaridina
    CherryTangerie Tigers
    SnowballsRacoon Tigers
    Blue JellyYellow King Kong
    Blue DreamAura Blue
    CarbonBlue Bolts (Crystal/Bee)
    OrangeShadow Panda (Crystal/Bee)
    ChocolateGolden Bee
    Green JadeSnow White

    Sourcing Selections

    When purchasing freshwater aquarium shrimp, sourcing becomes a major component in your success. With shrimp, you have two sources, importing shrimp and homebred shrimp.

    Importing shrimp is what you will find at your local fish stores. If you haven’t seen my Quarantine post, you may not be familiar with the sourcing cycle of imported livestock in our hobby. It is below for your reference:

    The Ornamental Fish Trade Supply Chain

    Imported livestock in general are going to go through multiple distributions to get to your home. This increases stress and the likelihood for diseases. Imported shrimp will also be larger in size, meaning they will have a harder time adapting to captivity. It is common for imported shrimp to experience die off when shipping (picture reference from the University of Florida).

    Homebred shrimp on the other hand are going to be hardier in general. They are used being in captivity and tend to be less prone to diseases. Homebred shrimp can also have issues as well if your breeder is not experienced or they are only a generation or two removed from being imported. In general, it’s going to be better to get your shrimp homebred from a local breeder in your area as they will use the similar source water as you (e.g. – tap water). Check your local aquarium societies and social media groups for sources of homebred shrimp.

    For those who do not have a local breeder available, I would highly recommend Buceplant. They sell a variety of Neocardina shrimp that would all be excellent choices for your shrimp tank.

    Pests – Dealing With Them

    Freshwater aquarium shrimp have pests that we need to deal with. Most will come from freshwater plants we purchase. The main pests are:

    • Planaria
    • Hydra
    • Scuds
    • Dragon Fly Nymphs

    Planaria is a type of flatworm that will attack and eat shrimp. You can use a Planaria Trap or a No Planaria medication to eradicate the problem.

    Hydra is a small aquatic vertebrae. They will sting and poison your shrimp killing them. They can also be treated with No Planaria medication.

    Scuds are especially dangerous for newborn shrimp. It is another hitchhiker from live plants. Manual removal is best for these. The reproduce very fast. Another option is to use Bettas or Killifish as they they will happily eat the scuds. Betta are a wildcard for shrimp tanks. Some people go the nuclear route, remove as many shrimp as they can, drop the Betta in and let it eat all the scuds over time. Once the scuds have been eaten the Betta is removed and the shrimp is reintroduced.

    Dragonfly Nymphs are nasty predators. They will kill and eat your shrimp and will hunt non-stop. Manual removal is your best bet. There are other options you can do, but they will harm your shrimp.

    The best way to deal with pests is prevention though. Consider dipping your plants in a bleach solution (19 parts water to 1 parts bleach) and rising with Prime conditioned water before introducing them into your aquarium or consider quarantining your live plant additions. See the video below from LifeWithPets on how to do a bleach dip for your live plants:

    Compatible Tank Mates

    You may not be interested in shrimp only tanks, so this list of fish will help with picking ones that will work with your shrimp. One thing you will need to keep in mind is if you add fish, it is going to be very likely that the shrimp babies will get eaten so don’t expect to breed shrimp with fish. There are very few fish that will not eat a baby shrimp if given a chance. You can increase your chances of success by choosing a larger species of shrimp like an Amano. Here is a limited selection of small fish that may work in a shrimp tank:

    Neon Tetra

    Feeding

    You need a mix of natural and prepared food to be successful with shrimp tanks. The main natural food we are looking to have available is biofilm. Biofilm is the structure bacteria build to support themselves and grow on surfaces. Shrimp will eat this in the aquarium. Biofilm can grow on your sponger filter, leave litter, mosses, and rocks. The more surface you have available the better for your shrimp. You can also provide “permanent food” like Cholla Wood.

    The next is prepared food. Powered Shrimp Baby Food by GlasGarten is a great choice to sustain shrimp babies. For adult shrimp, commercial shrimp food is available for purchase and will do the trick.

    Shrimp Baby

    This powdered food is perfect for baby shrimp

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    It is also a good idea to use a Feeding Tray when feeding your shrimp. This will prevent excess food getting lost in your substrate and keeping the rest of your aquarium clean from food debris. It’s also a nice way to observe your fish.

    Tank Maintenance

    Shrimp in general are more prone to parameter changes than fish. Staying on top of maintenance is a big deal with shrimp tanks. Many shrimp tanks are also smaller tanks, which make them more susceptible to parameter changes.

    Water Quality

    Shrimp are sensitive to ammonia, nitrite, and higher levels of nitrate. Weekly water changes are especially important with shrimp tanks. Another factor to consider with shrimp tanks is water top off. When water evaporates, parameters can change. Evaporation just pulls out water, but leaves your trace minerals in. You will want to added pure replacement water. This would be something like RODI water or distilled water to replace your evaporated water. You can use an Auto Top Of System to make things easier.

    Shrimp Tank Maintenance Tasks

    Additional tasks aside from water changes and top off water would be once a month filter cleaning. Make sure when you clean your filter media that you use your pulled tank water and squeeze the foam or sponges. This will clean out the debris, but will maintain the bacterial colonies in the media. Sponges should last a very long time and shouldn’t need to be replaced. Don’t replace a sponge unless you absolutely have to, and be very careful if you do because of the bacterial colony loss. It’s better to seed a sponge beforehand if you have to replace a sponge.

    Another key thing to note about shrimp tank is you need to be very careful when you put your hands in your aquarium. Shrimp are very sensitive to toxins. Detergents, chemicals on plants, flea treatments from pets, flea shampoo, and cleaners are prone a risk for your shrimp. Always make sure you wash your hands before putting your hands in your tank. Reef Safe Soap is your friend and a recommended purchase if you are going to handle a shrimp tank.

    Problems – Why They Die

    There a number of challenges one can come across with a Shrimp Tank. I’ll try to cover several of them in this post.

    Parameter Swings

    Shrimp are sensitive to water parameter swings. Having proper tests kits and a TDS meter are you friend. Get in the habit of regularly testing your water on a weekly basis.

    Uncycled Tanks

    Shrimp are very sensitive to ammonia in the aquarium and with their prolific breeding, they can add on to your bioload overtime. If you are using active substrate like ADA Aquasoil, keep in mind that the substrate will generate ammonia when it is first introduced. You will want to give an active soil like this a good two months before introducing shrimp.

    Molting Issues

    A common aliment in beginner shrimp tanks. This indicates a lack of iodine in the tank. Most staple food and powered food will serve this function. Fertilizer that is made for shrimp tanks will also include iodine to help support the shrimp’s molting process. Additional items to add if needed would be montmorillonite material powder that you can readily purchase online.

    Too Many Males

    If you have a shrimp tank with too many males to females, this will present a problem to your population. Males in abundance will overwhelm, stress out, and harass females to the point of death. If you are seeing your females are dropping fast, consider removing a portion of your male population to balance out your numbers. I have provide examples of a female and male shrimp to show you the visual differences. The male is longer while the female has an expanded abdomen section.

    Female Cherry Shrimp
    Male Shrimp

    Aquarium Heaters

    Heater failure is pretty common in our hobby. A failed heater can lead to many shrimp deaths. Heaters will fail on the on position, which will overheat your tank. Consider an Aquarium Heater Controller to prevent a catastrophic event.

    Pests

    As we mentioned earlier, pests are a major problem in shrimp tanks. Consider using a bleach dip to prevent nuisance pests in your tank.

    Toxins

    Toxins – especially copper are especially deadly to shrimp. Make sure if you are using fertilizer that your fertilizer is shrimp safe meaning that there isn’t copper in the mix or purchase a fertilizer specially designed for shrimp. Check our our Aquarium Plant Fertilizer post for recommended products.

    Poor Source Water

    Let’s talk about your source water. In general for freshwater tanks, you is okay using tap water that is treated with a Dechlorinator. If you are going to keep harder to keep shrimp like Caridina shrimp, you will probably need to go with better source water.

    Shrimp are very sensitive to copper levels and high nurtients, things that is present in tap water. You will want to look at your city’s water reports to see what is in your water. RODI water is 99% pure H20 for your aquarium and ideal for sensitive species of shrimp. If you use tap water with Caridina shrimp, it’s possible to get quick die off of your shrimp. If you are using RODI water, you will need to remineralize the water when making water changes. You will want to use a remineralizer supplement in order to get the proper elements in your water changes so your shrimp can stay health.

    Editor’s Choice
    SaltyShrimp – Shrimp Mineral

    Editor’s Choice

    The go to for remineralizing your source water. Highly recommended for all shrimp tank setups

    Buy On Amazon

    Baby Deaths

    Having baby shrimp dying in large numbers can indicate an inadequate source of biofilm for the babies. Focus on building this up in your tank with more rocks, mosses, leave litter, and consider using powdered food to keep them fed.

    Life Span

    Shrimp don’t actually live very long. Most shrimp will live 6-12 months in an aquarium, but they breed a lot. This is also why having a single variety of shrimp is a big deal because generations pass quickly and within a couple of years you will have hybrid shrimps in your tank from the new generations.

    Closing Thoughts

    Glass Feeding Dish For Shrimp Tanks

    Freshwater shrimp tanks are loaded with personality and if bigger shrimp are selected, they is manageable for a beginner. Shrimp tanks are a niche in our hobby with challenge levels for everyone and it is really exciting to have an actively breeding tank.

    They can really be a lot of fun to keep and with their smaller sizes, your wallet will thank you versus going for a much larger tank :). If you have any questions, please leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.

  • Best Self-Cleaning Fish Tanks: 7 Picks That Actually Reduce Maintenance

    Best Self-Cleaning Fish Tanks: 7 Picks That Actually Reduce Maintenance

    Let me be blunt: no fish tank truly cleans itself. That’s marketing language, and after 25 years in this hobby I’m tired of seeing people get burned by it. What “self-cleaning” actually means is that certain tank designs reduce manual maintenance through smarter filtration, aquaponic biology, or bottom-draining systems. The best ones genuinely cut your workload. The worst ones are all-in-one tanks wearing clever branding. Water changes are still non-negotiable. Not one tank on this list eliminates them. But the right design can cut your maintenance time significantly, and a few of these go further by putting living plants to work as your biological filter.

    I’ve handled every type of setup on this list through my stores and my own tanks. Here’s what actually delivers versus what just sounds good on a product page.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    The aquaponics-style tanks on this list are the only ones that come close to genuinely self-sustaining. The plants do real biological filtration work when stocked correctly. Pure filtration-only “self-cleaning” tanks reduce effort, but you’re still doing water changes every 1 to 2 weeks. Know what you’re buying before you spend the money. If your goal is zero maintenance, no tank exists for that. If your goal is significantly less maintenance, an aquaponic setup at the right fish load can get you there.

    What People Get Wrong About Self-Cleaning Tanks

    Most buyers assume “self-cleaning” means set it up, add fish, and walk away. That assumption leads directly to dead fish within a month. These tanks still require you to cycle them before adding livestock, monitor water parameters, and top off water lost to evaporation. The aquaponic systems also need you to manage plant health, trim roots, and occasionally replant. “Self-cleaning” is a maintenance reduction, not an elimination. The people who get the most out of these tanks are the ones who go in with that understanding from day one.

    The Biggest Mistake Buyers Make

    Overstocking. The self-cleaning mechanism in aquaponic tanks is the plants processing fish waste. That system has a capacity limit. Put too many fish in, and the waste load overwhelms the plants, ammonia spikes, and your fish die. The 10-gallon AquaSprouts kit supports 2 to 3 small fish comfortably. The 3-gallon Back to Roots supports one small fish. People see “self-cleaning” and figure they can add more fish because the tank handles it. It doesn’t work that way.

    BUY OR SKIP?

    Buy if: You want to significantly reduce (not eliminate) maintenance, you’re interested in aquaponics, or you want a beginner-friendly setup for a child that limits the most tedious upkeep tasks.

    Skip if: You expect zero work, you want to keep a large collection of tropical fish, or you already have experience and want a serious aquarium. A standard tank with good filtration will serve you better and give you more fish-keeping flexibility.

    What Makes a Good Self-Cleaning Fish Tank (My Criteria)

    • Does the self-cleaning mechanism actually work, or is it marketing?
    • Is the filtration sized properly for the tank volume?
    • Is the build quality solid enough to last more than a year?
    • Does it give you enough capacity to house fish humanely?
    • Is the price honest for what you’re getting?

    WHY THIS RANKING

    I ranked these tanks on four factors: how genuinely effective the self-cleaning mechanism is, whether the tank size supports fish humanely, build quality and longevity, and price-to-value. Aquaponic systems score higher on the genuine self-cleaning scale because the biology is real. Pure filtration-based “self-cleaning” systems score lower because they’re just good filters in prettier packages. Novelty tanks score last because they’re too small for fish welfare.

    My List of Self-Cleaning Fish Tank Candidates

    In a hurry? I recommend the AquaSprouts Garden!

    Picture Name Size Link
    Editor’s Choice!

    AquaSprouts Garden

    AquaSprouts Garden
    • 10 Gallons
    Buy On Amazon
    Best Value

    Back To The Roots Water Garden

    Back To The Roots Water Garden
    • 3 Gallons
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option

    biOrb Classic Aquarium Kit

    biOrb Classic Aquarium Kit
    • 4 Gallons
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    EcoLife Aquaponics Indoor Garden System EcoLife Aquaponics Indoor Garden System
    • 20 Gallons
    Buy On Amazon
    biOrb Flow biOrb Flow
    • 8 Gallons
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    EcoQubeC Aquarium EcoQubeC Aquarium
    • 1 Gallon
    Buy On Amazon
    As Seen On TV My Fun Fish Tank As Seen On TV My Fun Fish Tank
    • 1/2 Gallon
    Buy On Amazon

    The Top Choices (Reviews)

    1. AquaSprouts Garden

    Editor’s Choice!


    AquaSprouts Garden

    Editor’s Choice

    The closest thing to a genuinely self-sustaining fish tank. Plants do real biological filtration work. Best aquaponics intro kit on the market.


    Buy On Amazon

    The AquaSprouts Garden is the real deal when it comes to self-cleaning tanks. The concept is simple: fish waste feeds the plants in the grow bed above, the plants clean the water, and that water cycles back down. It’s actual aquaponics, not marketing spin. The 10-gallon capacity gives you enough space for a small school of fish and a grow bed large enough to produce herbs, lettuce, or leafy greens year-round.

    The custom-molded grow bed fits neatly over a standard 10-gallon tank. The included light bar extends to accommodate taller plants, which removes the dependency on natural light placement. The water pump pushes dirty tank water up to the clay pebble grow media, the plants process the nutrients, and aerated clean water drains back down. When it’s running right, you’re doing occasional water top-offs and plant maintenance, not weekly gravel vacuuming.

    One honest note: the 10-gallon tank is not included. You’ll need to purchase one separately. That’s the main surprise buyers encounter. The kit also costs more than most beginner tanks. It’s made in the USA and worth the price, but set your budget accordingly.

    Pros

    • Genuine aquaponic biology, not just clever filtration
    • Grows vegetables year-round
    • Extensible light bar, no window placement required

    Cons

    • Tank sold separately
    • Higher price point

    2. Back To Roots Water Garden

    Best Value


    Back To The Roots Water Garden

    Best value aquaponic kit. Combines self-cleaning biology with an accessible price point. Ideal for one small fish.


    Buy On Chewy


    Buy On Amazon

    If the AquaSprouts price stops you, the Back to the Roots Water Garden is the smart alternative. Same aquaponic biology, smaller scale. At 3 gallons, it supports one small fish comfortably. The kit comes with everything you need to start, and the fish waste feeds the plants above on the same cycle. It doesn’t have a light bar, so you’ll need to place it near a window or clip on a grow light. That’s the main limitation at this price point.

    This tank works best as a desk or counter setup. One betta, one plant tray, manageable maintenance. If you want to grow full vegetables, move up to the AquaSprouts. But for the entry-level price, the Back to Roots delivers real aquaponic function that most “self-cleaning” tanks don’t come close to matching.

    Pros

    • Accessible price point
    • Complete kit, ready to start
    • Real aquaponic self-cleaning biology

    Cons

    • 3 gallons limits fish options to one small fish
    • No included light stand

    3. biOrb Classic Aquarium Kit

    I’m not a fan of fish bowls. The biOrb Classic by OASE is one of the few exceptions I’ll make. OASE builds serious filtration equipment, and they brought that engineering discipline to this small tank. The bottom-up filtration design pulls dirty water to the bottom and pushes filtered water out the top, which is how professionally designed commercial pond systems work. At 4 gallons, it’s appropriately sized for a betta or a small group of nano fish.

    This isn’t aquaponic self-cleaning. The biology here is purely filtration-based. But the filtration is genuinely well-designed for the size. With the right low-light plant setup, the biOrb can get close to a planted self-sustaining system. Without plants, you’re still doing water changes, just less frequently than with a cheaper comparable tank.

    biOrb Filter Flow

    Pros

    • OASE engineering, best filtration design at this size
    • 4 gallons, appropriate for a betta
    • Complete kit with lighting and pump

    Cons

    • Not genuinely self-cleaning without plants
    • Won’t grow vegetables

    4. EcoLife Aquaponics Indoor Garden System


    ECO-Cycle Garden System

    The largest aquaponics kit available. Supports a 20-gallon tank with LED grow lighting included. Real vegetable production capacity.


    Buy On Amazon

    The EcoLife Aquaponics Indoor Garden System is the heavy hitter on this list. It supports a 20-gallon aquarium, giving you enough capacity for a real fish community, not just one or two fish. The included LED grow light is a natural spectrum fixture, so it complements your living space instead of blasting that purple-pink grow light glow across the room. At 20 gallons, this is the only aquaponic kit on the list where goldfish are a realistic option, though goldfish grow large and add substantial bioload over time.

    The price is the sticking point. It’s the most expensive kit on this list by a significant margin. For that reason I don’t put it at the top overall. But if budget isn’t the constraint and you want maximum aquaponic capacity, this is the setup to buy.

    Pros

    • 20 gallons, largest aquaponic kit available
    • Natural spectrum LED grow light included
    • Serious vegetable production capacity

    Cons

    • Most expensive option on this list
    • Tank not included
    • Large footprint

    5. biOrb Flow


    biOrb Flow

    Step up in size from the Classic. Acrylic construction makes it lightweight. Best biOrb if you want more fish room.


    Buy On Petco


    Buy On Amazon

    The biOrb Flow is the same bottom-up filtration system as the Classic, scaled up to 8 gallons and built with acrylic instead of glass. Acrylic gives you better optical clarity than most low-iron glass tanks and makes the tank lightweight enough to move without the structural risk of glass. At 8 gallons, you have meaningful room for a small community: a trio of nano fish, or a betta with some shrimp.

    Like the Classic, this is a filtration-based system, not aquaponics. You’re still doing water changes. The selling point is ease: clean setup, quality filtration, and durable build from OASE. Choose the Flow over the Classic when you want more swimming space. Choose the Classic when counter space is the limiting factor.

    Pros

    • 8 gallons, meaningful fish room
    • Acrylic: lightweight and highly clear
    • Same quality OASE filtration as the Classic

    Cons

    • More expensive than comparable glass tanks
    • Not genuine aquaponic self-cleaning

    6. EcoQubeC Aquarium

    The EcoQube has the right idea and the wrong execution. The filtration box in the rear compartment keeps equipment clean and gives you the clearest front viewing panel of anything on this list. The grow area handles one plant, which limits the aquaponic effect significantly. At 1 gallon, the tank is technically too small for most fish. I don’t recommend any betta in a 1-gallon tank long-term, regardless of what the marketing suggests. If the makers scale this to 3 to 5 gallons in a future version, it becomes a serious contender. For now, it’s a proof of concept.

    Pros

    • Cleanest internal presentation on this list
    • Good included lighting

    Cons

    • 1 gallon is too small for fish welfare
    • Single plant limits aquaponic effectiveness
    • Availability can be limited

    7. My Fun Fish Tank


    As Seen on TV My Fun Fish Tank

    Interesting concept: gravity drains dirty water as you add new water. But at half a gallon, it’s too small for any fish. Ghost shrimp only.


    Buy On Amazon

    The My Fun Fish Tank uses gravity to drain dirty water when you add fresh water. The mechanism is clever. The size is the problem: half a gallon is not appropriate for keeping fish. I include it here to say clearly: don’t put fish in it. Ghost shrimp at most. It’s a novelty item. If the same gravity-drain mechanism were applied to a 3-gallon tank, it would genuinely challenge the biOrb for the budget spot. But as built, it’s too small to recommend for fish.

    Pros

    • Genuinely clever gravity drain mechanism
    • Very affordable

    Cons

    • Half a gallon: too small for fish welfare
    • Drain mechanism prone to clogging
    • Novelty item, not a real aquarium

    MARK’S TOP PICK

    The AquaSprouts Garden is the clear winner. It’s the only tank on this list where the self-cleaning mechanism is real and scalable: plants doing actual biological filtration at 10 gallons. The Back to Roots Water Garden is the best value if you want the same aquaponic concept at a lower price and smaller scale. If you want a pure filtration-based low-maintenance tank without the aquaponics, the biOrb Classic delivers the best-engineered filtration system in its class.

    My Recommendation

    The best self-cleaning fish tank is the AquaSprouts Garden. At 10 gallons with real aquaponic biology, it’s the only tank where nature is doing meaningful work for you. The Back to Roots is the best budget option when you want aquaponics at a smaller scale. The biOrb Classic wins the pure filtration category for people who just want the best low-maintenance small tank without the plant element.

    Should You Buy a Self-Cleaning Fish Tank?

    Good fit if:

    • You want to significantly reduce (not eliminate) cleaning time
    • You’re interested in aquaponics and growing herbs or greens
    • You want a beginner or child-friendly setup that limits the most tedious maintenance tasks
    • You have limited time and want a compact system that handles itself between water changes

    Avoid if:

    • You expect zero maintenance (that tank doesn’t exist)
    • You want to keep more than a few fish or larger species
    • You already have fish-keeping experience and want a serious aquarium setup
    • Your primary goal is a visually impressive display tank

    Another Approach: The Low-Tech Planted Tank

    There’s another path worth knowing about that doesn’t involve any of these kits. A heavily planted low-tech tank with a light fish load can run for months between water changes. The plants absorb the nitrates, the bacteria handle ammonia, and a modest fish population stays within what the biology can process. I’ve achieved similar results in my own reef tank over the years. In freshwater, the main challenge is fertilization: heavily planted tanks need nutrients, and those often come from water changes. It takes more experience to balance than a kit, but it’s worth considering if you already have some fish-keeping background and want a naturalistic solution rather than an off-the-shelf kit.

    WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

    The self-cleaning tanks that advertise “no water changes ever” are missing one key variable: fish accumulate dissolved solids (TDS) in their water that plants and filters don’t remove. Even the best-running aquaponic system benefits from a 10 to 20% water change every few weeks to reset TDS levels. The tanks on this list reduce your maintenance load significantly. None of them truly eliminate it. Build that expectation in from day one and you’ll get years of satisfaction from these setups. Don’t, and you’ll be disappointed inside of a month.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Do self-cleaning fish tanks actually work?

    Yes, but not in the way most people expect. Aquaponic models genuinely reduce maintenance because live plants process fish waste as nutrients. Filtration-based models reduce the frequency and effort of cleaning but don’t eliminate water changes. No tank on the market maintains itself completely without any human involvement.

    What fish work best in self-cleaning tanks?

    Small, low-bioload fish are best: bettas, guppies, endlers, small tetras like neons or embers, and nano species like chili rasboras. Avoid goldfish in small aquaponic kits (they produce too much waste) and any fish that requires warm tropical temperatures if the tank doesn’t have a heater.

    How often do you still need to do water changes?

    With a properly stocked aquaponic system, every 2 to 4 weeks for a small top-off or partial change. With filtration-only self-cleaning tanks like the biOrb, every 1 to 2 weeks. Neither eliminates water changes entirely.

    Can you put a betta in a self-cleaning tank?

    Yes, but only in tanks 3 gallons or larger. The Back to Roots Water Garden at 3 gallons is the minimum viable size for a betta. The EcoQubeC at 1 gallon is too small for long-term betta health regardless of its self-cleaning claims.

    Are aquaponic tanks hard to set up?

    The kits on this list are designed to be beginner-friendly. You still need to cycle the tank before adding fish (2 to 4 weeks), and you’ll need to learn basic plant care. But compared to a full planted aquarium, these systems are significantly more approachable.

    Closing Thoughts

    Self-cleaning fish tanks are worth the investment if you understand what you’re actually buying. An aquaponic kit like the AquaSprouts Garden genuinely delivers on the promise: living plants doing real biological work to reduce your maintenance load. The biOrb series delivers best-in-class filtration for people who want a low-maintenance tank without the plant element. Skip the half-gallon novelty items entirely. A tank that’s too small for fish isn’t low-maintenance, it’s a fish welfare problem waiting to happen.

    If you’re ready to get started, check availability at Flip Aquatics for live plants and livestock to stock your new setup, or browse Dan’s Fish for quality fish suited to smaller tanks. Both are reliable sources I recommend without hesitation.

    References

  • The Complete List of 150 Aquarium Hobbyist Clubs and Societies

    The Complete List of 150 Aquarium Hobbyist Clubs and Societies

    Aquarium Hobbyist Clubs and Societies: The Complete Directory

    aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies worldwide

    Local aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies are one of the most underrated resources in this hobby, and I say that after 25+ years of keeping fish. The knowledge inside a good local club. from breeders who’ve been at it for decades, to members willing to share cuttings, fry, or equipment at cost. is genuinely hard to find anywhere else. I’ve made some of my best hobby connections through club events and auctions. If you haven’t looked into your local club yet, I strongly encourage it. Below is a comprehensive list of aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies organized by region to help you find one near you.

    Aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies can provide incredible learning experiences with the vast number of hobbyist veterans willing to help you out. Many are closer to you can you think. We encourage anyone who keeps freshwater or saltwater aquariums to join an aquarium club. They can provide many learning opportunities, mentorships, and a great way to make new friends. The tank tours alone are worth stopping by!

    Since many of these clubs do not market themselves, Aquarium Store Depot  has provided a list so that you can find the closest one to you. There are aquarium clubs popping up throughout the States all the time so if you have one that we have not listed, please e-mail us at info@aquariumstoredepot.com or contact us and we will get the list updated:

    One underappreciated benefit of joining local clubs is access to a mentorship network. Most experienced hobbyists in these groups are genuinely happy to answer questions, do tank visits, or help troubleshoot a problem. You also get early access to members-only auctions, where locally bred fish, home-grown plants, and coral frags often go for a fraction of what you’d pay online. For beginners especially, this community knowledge base shortens the learning curve dramatically and makes the hobby far more enjoyable from day one.

    What to Expect From Aquarium Hobbyist Clubs

    Most aquarium hobbyist clubs operate on a simple model: members pay a small annual fee to fund events, speakers, and a shared library of books and equipment. Monthly meetings typically include a program segment (a speaker or demonstration), a Q&A, and an auction where members bring in frags, fry, cuttings, or equipment to sell or trade. This is one of the best ways to get rare or locally bred species that you’d never find at a big box store.

    Freshwater aquarium hobbyist clubs tend to focus on planted tanks, cichlids, bettas, native fish, and general community fish. Marine and reef aquarium hobbyist clubs (often called reef clubs or SCMAS) center on coral propagation, SPS and LPS care, equipment reviews, and tank tours. Many clubs now have hybrid memberships that welcome both freshwater and saltwater hobbyists.

    StateCityNameWebsite
    AlabamaMobileMobile Bay Reef Keepersmbrk.com
    ArizonaPhoenixArizona Frag Clubarizonafrag.com
    ArizonaPhoenixDrywash Aquarium Societydrywashaquarium.com
    ArizonaPhoenix/TucsonArizona Aquatic Plant Enthusiastsazaquaticplants.com
    ArizonaTucsonDesert Aquarist Societydesertaquaristsociety.com
    ArkansasLittle RockRazorback Reef Marine Aquarium Society (RRMAS)razorbackreef.com
    CaliforniaCosa MesaCoast Fish Clubcoastfishclub.com
    CaliforniaFresnoCentral Valley Reeferscvreefers.org
    CaliforniaHaywardBay Area Reefersbareefers.org
    CaliforniaHollisterCentral Coast Aquarium Clubkidjacobmartin.wix.com
    CaliforniaLos AngelesLos Angeles Reef Societylareefsociety.org
    CaliforniaNorthern CaliforniaCalifornia Betta Societycbsbettas.org
    CaliforniaRiversidePan Pacific Guppy Associationppga.tripod.com
    CaliforniaSacramentoSacramento Aquarium Societysacramentoaquariumsociety.info
    CaliforniaSan DiegoSan Diego Tropical Fish Societysandiegotropicalfish.com
    CaliforniaSan DiegoSan Diego Marine Aquarium Societysdmas.com
    CaliforniaSan FranciscoSan Francisco Aquarium SocietySanFranciscoAquariumSociety.org
    CaliforniaSan FranciscoSan Francisco Bay Area Aquatic Plant Societysfbaaps.org
    CaliforniaSan JosePacific Coast Cichlid Associationcichlidworld.com
    CaliforniaSanta AnaSouthern California Marine Aquarium Societyofficalscmas.org
    CaliforniaSouthern CaliforniaSouthern California Aquatic Plant Societyscapeclub.org
    ColoradoArvadaColorado Aquarium Societycoloradoaquarium.org
    ColoradoColoradoMarine Aquarium Society of Coloradocoloradoaquarium.org
    ColoradoDenverRocky Mountain Cichlid Associationmarinecolorado.org
    ColoradoSouthern ColoradoSouthern Colorado Marine Aquarium Societythescmas.com
    ConnecticutConnecticutConnecticut Area Reef Societyctars.org
    ConnecticutHudson ValleyDanbury Area Aquarium Societynortheastcouncil.org
    ConnecticutNorwalkNorwalk Aquarium Societynorwalkas.org
    DelawareDelawareChesapeake Area Killifish Clubchesapeakekillifish.org
    DelawareNew CastleDelaware Reef Clubdalreefclub.com
    District of ColumbiaDCCapital Cichlid Associationcapitalcichlids.org
    District of ColumbiaDCPotomac Valley Aquarium Societypvas.com
    District of ColumbiaDCWashington DC Area Marine Aquarist Society (WAMAS)wamas.org
    FloridaBrevardBrevard Area Reef Societybrevardareareefsociety.com
    FloridaMiamiFlorida Marine Aquarium Societyfmas1995.org
    FloridaOrlandoOrlando Reef Caretakers Associationo-r-c-a.com
    FloridaPalm BeachPalm Beach Marine Aquarium Societypbmas.org
    FloridaSaratosaCoastal Aquarium Societycoastalaquariumsociety.com
    FloridaSouth FloridaGold Coast Aquarium Society of South Floridagcaquarium.org
    FloridaTampa BayTampa Bay Aquarium Societytbas1.com
    FloridaVariousFlorida Reef Aquarium Group (FRAG)floridareefaquariumgroup.com
    GeorgiaAtlantaAtlanta Area Aquarium Societyatlantaaquarium.com
    GeorgiaAtlantaAtlanta Reef Clubatlantareefclub.org
    GeorgiaAtlantaAtlanta Southeastern Marine Aquarium Societyatlanta-smas.org
    HawaiiHonoluluHonolulu Aquarium Societyhonoluluaquariumsociety.org
    IllinoisBloomingtonCentral Illinois Tropical Aquarium Clubcitac-il.org
    IllinoisChicagoChicagoland Marine Aquarium Societycmas.net
    IllinoisChicagoGreater Chicago Cichlid Associationgcca.net
    IllinoisRockfordRockford Reefersrockfordreefersaquariumclub.org
    IndianaIndianaIndiana Marine Aquarium Societyindmas.org
    IndianaIndianapolisCircle City Aquarium Clubcirclecityaqclub.org
    IndianaNorth Central IndianaNorthwest Indiana Marine Aquarium Clubmichianaaquariumsociety.org
    IndianaNorthwest IndianaNorthwest Indiana Marine Aquarium Clubnwimac.org
    IowaIowaGreater Iowa Reef Societygreateriowareefsociety.org
    IowaMarionEastern Iowa Aquarium Associationfinflap.com
    KansasKansasSalt Citysalt-city.org
    KansasKansas CityHeart of America Aquarium Societykcfishclub.org
    KentuckyLouisvilleLouisville Marine Aquarium Societylmas.org
    LouisianaLouisianaLouisiana Reef Clublareefclub.com
    LouisianaSoutheast LouisianaSoutheast Louisiana Aquarium Societyselas.us
    MarylandChesapeakeChesapeake Marine Aquarium Societycmas-md.org
    MarylandMarylandChesapeake Guppy Clubchesapeakeguppyclub.org
    MarylandSouthern MarylandSouthern Maryland Marine Aquarium Societysmmas.org
    MassachusettsBostonBoston Aquarium Societybostonaquariumsociety.org
    MassachusettsBostonBoston Reefersbostonreefers.org
    MassachusettsNew EnglandNew England Fancy Guppy Associationnewenglandguppies.org
    MassachusettsSpringfieldPioneer Valley Aquarium Societypvas.net
    MassachusettsWorcesterWorcester Aquarium Societysites.google.com/site/worcesteraquariumsociety
    MichiganDetroitMichigan Guppy Breedersmichiganguppybreeders.com
    MichiganDetroitMotor City Aquarium Clubmotorcityaquariumsociety.com
    MichiganLansingMid-Michigan Marine Clubmidmichiganmarineclub.org
    MichiganMichiganMarinelife Aquarium Society of Michiganmasm.org
    MichiganMichiganMichigan Reefersmichiganreefers.com
    MichiganNorthern MichiganUpper Peninsula of Michigan Marine Aquarium Societyupmmas.com
    MichiganSouthwest MichiganSouthwest Michigan Aquarium Societyswmas.org
    MinnesotaNorthern MinnesotaNorthern Minnesota Reef Clubfrozenocean.org
    MinnesotaRosevilleMinnesota Aquarium Societyaquarium.mn
    MinnesotaSt. PaulTwin Cities Marine Aquarium Societytcmas.org
    MissouriMaryland HeightsMissouri Aquarium Societymissouriaquariumsociety.com
    MissouriSpringfieldSaltwater Enthusiasts Association of Springfieldtheseas.org
    MissouriSt. LouisSaltwater Enthusiasts Association of St. Louisseasl.org
    MissouriSt. LouisSt. Louis Area Saltwater Hobbyistsslashclub.org
    NevadaLas VegasLas Vegas Marine Aquarium Societylvmas.com
    New HampshireNew HampshireNew Hampshire Aquarium Societynhaquariumsociety.com
    New JerseyFreeholdJersey Shore Aquarium Societyjerseyshoreas.org
    New JerseyNew JerseyNew Jersey Reefers Clubnjreefers.org
    New JerseyNew JerseyNew Jersey Aquarium Societynjas.net
    New YorkAlbanyCapital District Marine Aquarist’s Societycdmas.org
    New YorkBrooklynBrooklyn Aquarium Societybasny.org
    New YorkBuffaloUpstate Reef Societyupstatereef.com
    New YorkCentral New YorkCentral New York Aquarium Societycnyas.org
    New YorkHudson ValleyHudson Valley Reefkeepershvreef.org
    New YorkLong IslandLong Island Aquarium Societyliasonline.org
    New YorkLong IslandLong Island Reef Associationlongislandreef.org
    New YorkManhattanManhattan Reefsmanhattanreefs.com
    New YorkNassau CountyNassau County Aquarium Societyncasweb.org
    New YorkOleanAllegheny River Valley Aquarium Societyorgsites.com/ny/arvas
    New YorkQueensGreater City Aquarium Societygreatercity.org
    North CarolinaCharlotteReef Aquarium Society of Charlotterasoc.org
    North CarolinaRaleighTriangle Reef Aquarium Clubtrianglereefaquariumclub.tripod.com
    OhioAkronGreater Akron Aquarium Societygaas-fish.net
    OhioCentral OhioCentral Ohio Reef Aquaristscorareef.org
    OhioCincinnatiCincinnati Reefkeepers Societycincyreef.com
    OhioClevelandGuppy Association of Greater Clevelandangelfire.com/hi5/gagc
    OhioClevelandCleveland Saltwater Enthusiasts Associationc-sea.org
    OhioColumbusColumbus Area Fish Enthusiastscolumbusfishclub.org
    OhioLorain CountyLorain County Aquarium Societylcas-fish.net
    OhioMedina CoutyMedina County Aquarium Societymcas-fish.net
    OhioMiddleburg HeightsOhio Cichlid Associationohiocichlid.com
    OhioYoungstownYoungstown Area Tropical Fish Societyyatfs.com
    OklahomaOklahoma CityCentral Oklahoma Marine Aquarium Societyoklahomaocean.tripod.com
    OregonOregonPacific Northwest Marine Aquarium Societypnwmass.org
    OregonEugeneWillamette Valley Aquarium Societywvaquariumsociety.com
    PennsylvaniaChurchvilleBucks County Aquarium Societybcasonline.com
    PennsylvaniaDelaware ValleyDelaware County Aquarium Societydcas.us
    PennsylvaniaDelaware ValleyDelaware Vallery Reef Clubdelvalreefclub.org
    PennsylvaniaLancaster CountyAquarium Club of Lancaster Countyaclcpa.org
    PennsylvaniaNorthern MarylandMason Dixon Reef Clubmdreefclub.com
    PennsylvaniaPittsburgGreater Pittsburgh Aquarium Societygpasi.org
    PennsylvaniaPittsburghPittsburgh Marine Aquarium Societypmasi.org
    PennsylvaniaPittsburghPittsburgh Area Killifish Associationsheneskillies.com/paka/paka.htm
    Rhode IslandCranstonOcean State Reef Aquarium Societyosras.com
    Rhode IslandCranstonOcean State Reef Aquarium Societyosras.com
    South CarolinaCharlestonCharleston Reefers Clubcharlestonreefers.org
    South CarolinaColumbiaColumbia Marine Aquarium Clubcolumbiamac.org
    South DakoaSioux FallsSioux Fallas Area Aquarium Societysfaas.org
    TennesseeKnoxvilleMiddle Tennesse Reef Clubmtrc.org
    TexasAustinAustin Reef Clubaustinreefclub.com
    TexasDallasDallas Marine Aquarium Societydallasmas.org
    TexasDallas/Fort WorthDallas Fort Worth Marine Aquarium Societydfwmas.org
    TexasDallas/Fort WorthNorth Texas Reef Fanaticsnorthtexasreeffanatics.org
    TexasHoustonGreater Houston Aquarium Clubhoustonfishbox.com
    TexasHoustonMarine Aquarium and Reef Society of Houstonmarsh-reef.org
    TexasLubbockLubbock Reef Clublubbockreefclub.com
    TexasSan AntonioHill Country Cichlid Clubhillcountrycichlidclub.com
    TexasSouthern TexasMarine Aquarists Association of South Texasmaast.org
    TexasWacoSaltwater Club of Central Texasmyscct.com
    UtahSalt Lake CityGreat Salt Lake Aquarium Societygslas.com
    UtahSalt Lake CityWasatch Marine Aquarium Societyutahreefs.com
    VermontVermontVermont Marine Aquaristssaltwatervt.org
    VirginiaRichmondRichmond Reefersrichmondreefers.com
    WashingtonSeattleGreater Seattle Aquarium Societygsas.org
    WashingtonSpokaneSpokane Reef Societyicehouse.net
    WashingtonWashingtonPacific Sound Aquarium Societypnwmas.org
    WashingtonYakimaYakima Salt Water Clubyswc.forumotion.net
    WisconsinMadisonMadison Area Reef Societymadisonreef.com
    WisconsinMadisonMadison Area Aquatic Hobbyistsmadisonaquatichobby.com
    WisconsinMilwaukeeThe Milwaukee Aquarium Societymilwaukeeaquariumsociety.com
    WisconsinWisconsinWisconsin Reef Societywireefsociety.com

    Starting a freshwater tank? Check out our freshwater aquarium words of wisdom

    Starting a saltwater tank? Check out our saltwater reef tank words of wisdom

    Looking to buy livestock? Check out this link for the best place to buy fish online

    Why Join Aquarium Hobbyist Clubs and Societies

    Whether you’re new to the hobby or decades in, aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies remain one of the most underrated resources in fishkeeping. Most aquarium hobbyist clubs host monthly meetings, livestock auctions, and equipment swaps where you can find rare species at a fraction of retail prices. Many aquarium hobbyist clubs also maintain active online communities if in-person attendance isn’t possible. If you’ve been considering joining, this grand list of aquarium hobbyist clubs and societies is a great place to start.

    aquarium hobbyist clubs meeting
    Join local aquarium hobbyist clubs to meet fellow fishkeepers.

    References

  • The 10 Best Nitrate Removers for Freshwater aquariums (2026 Reviews)

    The 10 Best Nitrate Removers for Freshwater aquariums (2026 Reviews)

    High nitrates are one of the most common problems I see in freshwater tanks, and one of the most misunderstood. In 25 years of keeping fish and managing aquarium stores, the question I’ve heard more than almost any other is: “What do I add to get my nitrates down?” The honest answer most people don’t want to hear: you probably don’t need to add anything. You need to fix what’s causing them.

    Most “nitrate removers” are band-aids. The real answer is water changes, stocking discipline, and biological filtration. But some products do work in specific situations, and knowing which ones are worth it can save you a lot of money and frustration.

    https://youtu.be/E0YnjkKaGn8

    What People Get Wrong About Nitrate Removers

    The misconception is that nitrate remover products are a substitute for addressing root causes. They’re not. If you have 80 ppm nitrates because you’re overstocked and doing monthly water changes, dropping a chemical pad in your filter will temporarily reduce the number but won’t stop the source. You’ll be replacing that pad every few weeks forever while your fish are still stressed from the chronic nitrate load.

    The second mistake: treating nitrate management as a chemistry problem instead of a biology problem. Nitrates are a waste product of the nitrogen cycle. The only permanent solutions are the same ones nature uses: dilution (water changes), uptake (live plants), or conversion (anaerobic bacteria in specialized media). Everything else is temporary.

    The Biggest Mistake Freshwater Keepers Make

    Overstocking and then trying to chemical-fix their way out of it. I’ve watched hobbyists spend more on nitrate-removing filter media over a year than they would have spent doing proper weekly water changes. The media needs to be replaced, the problem never goes away, and the fish are still living in water quality that’s chronically below ideal. If your nitrates are consistently above 40 ppm between water changes, look at your stocking level before you look at your product options.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After 25 years in this hobby, here’s my honest take on nitrate removers: Biohome Ultimate is the only product on this list I’d call a genuine long-term solution for a heavily stocked fish-only tank. It’s expensive and takes time to establish, but once it’s running, the results are real and lasting. For everything else, you’re managing symptoms. Seachem Purigen is my go-to for a quick, reliable intervention, and the Acurel pad has saved more than a few tanks I’ve seen in stores where the owner needed fast results with a canister filter. But none of these replace fundamentals: stock appropriately, change water regularly, and let your biological filtration do what it’s designed to do.

    Understanding the Nitrogen Cycle First

    Aquarium Nitrogen Cycle

    Before we get into products, here’s why you have a nitrate problem. The nitration cycle runs through 5 stages:

    1. Nitrogen enters the system through fish food
    2. Ammonia is produced through fish waste and decaying material
    3. Nitrosomonas bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite
    4. Nitrobacter bacteria convert nitrite to nitrate
    5. Plants use nitrates and ammonium as fertilizer

    Most freshwater tanks are missing step five. No live plants, no nitrate consumption. The standard filter media that comes with most power filters handles steps 3 and 4 through biological colonization, but filter manufacturers don’t typically include media designed to address step 5, because it’s more expensive and not everyone wants it.

    Ways to Remove Nitrates

    1. Water Changes

    Water changes are the foundation. They dilute nitrates and replace trace elements. If you’re doing them consistently, most hobbyists can keep nitrates under control without any additional products. The goal is to not be a slave to the water change bucket, but realistically, a 20-25% change every 1-2 weeks is the baseline for a healthy freshwater community tank.

    2. Live Plants

    A well-planted tank is a natural nitrate sink. Dense planting can genuinely eliminate nitrate buildup in lightly stocked tanks. This doesn’t work for everyone: goldfish destroy plants, aggressive cichlids uproot them, and some hobbyists simply don’t want to manage plant growth. But if you can do it, a planted tank is the most elegant nitrate solution available.

    3. Reduce Stocking

    Sometimes the tank is just overstocked. The 1-inch-per-gallon rule is outdated and unreliable; it doesn’t account for bioload differences between species. Goldfish, large cichlids, and messy eaters produce far more waste per inch than neon tetras. If your biological filtration is maxed out, no product will solve that sustainably.

    4. Dedicated Nitrate-Removing Filter Media

    This is where the products below come in. Nitrate-removing media works through either chemical/resin absorption (disposable) or biological means (permanent media that grows anaerobic bacteria). Both approaches work, but they work differently and suit different tank setups. Know what you’re buying before you add it to your filter.

    The Candidates

    Every product here has been selected based on field experience and safety for freshwater use. All are safe for fish and plants when used as directed.

    In a hurry? I recommend Biohome for a permanent solution and Seachem Purigen for a disposable solution.

    Picture Name Type Link
    Editor’s Choice

    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Permanent

    Buy On Amazon
    Best Value

    Seachem Purigen

    Seachem Purigen

    Rechargeable

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon

    WHY THIS RANKING

    These products are ranked on effectiveness for freshwater applications, long-term value (permanent vs. disposable cost over time), ease of use in common filter types (power filters, canister filters), and how well they address the specific type of nitrate problem most freshwater keepers face. Products that require specific filter configurations or offer only temporary relief are ranked accordingly.

    The Top 10 Best Nitrate Removers (2026 Reviews)

    1. Biohome Ultimate Filter Media: The Best Permanent Solution

    Editor’s Choice!
    Biohome Ultimate Filter Media

    Editor’s Choice!

    The only filter media that handles ammonia, nitrite, AND nitrate biologically. Set it and let it work.

    Buy On Amazon

    Biohome Ultimate is the best biological filtration media you can buy, and in my opinion it’s the most effective long-term nitrate solution for freshwater tanks. It handles ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate, all three stages of the nitrogen cycle, in one permanent media. Biohome was originally developed by PondGuru, a pond care YouTuber who needed a solution for high-nutrient pond water. It translates extremely well to freshwater aquariums.

    Because it’s biologically based, it takes time to establish. Don’t expect results in the first week. You’re waiting for anaerobic bacteria to colonize the inner pores of the media, which can take 4-8 weeks in a new setup. Once it’s running, you’re done. You add it to your filter and leave it there. No replacements, no recharging.

    The drawback is cost and quantity. You need 2-4 lbs for a mid-sized tank, and it’s not cheap. Here’s Bio-Home’s own dosing guide:

    Environment Amount of Biohome Required
    Avg Community Tropical Tank 1 kg/26 gal (100 lt)
    Avg Cold Water Tank 1-1.5 kg/26 gal (100 lt)
    Predator Tank 1.5-2 kg/26 gal (100 lt)
    Large Cichlid Tank 1.5-2 kg/26 gal (100 lt)
    Malawi/Tanganyikan Tank 1.5-2 kg/26 gal (100 lt)
    Avg Mixed Fish Pond 1 kg/52 gal (200 lt)
    Avg Koi Pond 1 kg/39 gal (150 lt)

    If you want to stop being a slave to constant water changes, this is worth every penny. It’s the investment you make once instead of buying disposable media repeatedly.

    • Pros: Permanent, biological, handles full nitrogen cycle, mini version fits power filters
    • Cons: Expensive upfront, requires 4-8 weeks to establish

    2. Seachem Purigen: Best Fast-Acting Option

    Best Value
    Seachem Purigen

    Best Value

    Fast-acting, color-changing resin that removes organics and nitrate compounds. Rechargeable with bleach solution.

    Buy On Amazon
    Click For Best Price

    Seachem Purigen is the fast-acting option I recommend for hobbyists who need results now. It uses a synthetic resin that removes organic compounds, and its color changes from white to dark brown as it depletes. That color indicator is genuinely useful: you know exactly when to replace or recharge without guessing.

    Recharging uses an unscented bleach solution, which actually destroys the organics instead of just releasing them back (API’s salt recharge approach has risk of leaching organics back over time). Purigen’s recharge process is more thorough.

    It’s affordable, available everywhere, and fits in power filters without modification. For a fast intervention on a tank with elevated nitrates, this is my default recommendation.

    • Pros: Fast acting, color indicator, rechargeable, fits power filters
    • Cons: Recharge process takes attention, not a permanent fix for chronic issues

    3. EA Premium Nitrate Reducer Pad: Best Budget Canister Filter Option

    Budget Option
    EA Premium Nitrate Reducer Pad

    Budget Option

    Budget-friendly, effective infused pad that works immediately in canister filters

    Buy On Amazon

    The EA Premium Nitrate Reducer is an infused filter pad that works immediately, no break-in period. It’s my budget recommendation for canister filter owners. Place it in the chemical media stage after your mechanical filtration. Rinse it before use or it’ll cloud your water. It can be cut to fit different filter sizes.

    • Pros: Cheap, works instantly, can be cut to size
    • Cons: Dusty (rinse first), hard to find locally, may not fit small power filters

    4. Acurel LLC Nitrate Reducing Pad: Proven Field Results

    Acurel LLC Nitrate Reducing Pad

    The name-brand canister filter nitrate pad with proven field results in large tanks

    Buy On Amazon

    Acurel’s Nitrate Reducing Pad has been a reliable option for years. It’s a 10×18 inch pad you cut to fit. I’ve personally seen this pad drop nitrates in a 180-gallon African cichlid tank from 60-80 ppm down to under 20 ppm. It works best in a canister filter’s chemical media chamber. The limitation is power filters: you need enough pad surface area to be effective, and most power filters can’t accommodate enough of it.

    • Pros: Proven large-tank results, cuttable size, fast acting
    • Cons: Not effective in small power filters, harder to find locally

    5. API Nitra-Zorb: Best All-In-One Resin for Canister Filters

    API NITRA-ZORB

    Resin media that handles ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate. Replaces carbon in canister filters.

    Buy On Amazon
    Buy On Chewy

    API Nitra-Zorb is a resin-based media that handles ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate and replaces carbon in canister filters. It’s rechargeable with an aquarium salt solution, which makes it reusable. One caution: the salt-based recharge only replaces ionic compounds, it doesn’t destroy larger organic compounds the way Purigen’s bleach recharge does. Over time there’s a risk of organics leaching back, though in practice most users replace it often enough that this isn’t an issue.

    • Pros: Handles full nitrogen cycle, replaces carbon, rechargeable
    • Cons: Bag is large (designed for canister filters), can interfere with established beneficial bacteria colonies

    6. Boxtech Aquarium Media: MarinePure-Style Ceramic for Freshwater

    BoxTech Aquarium Media

    Ceramic blocks with massive surface area for anaerobic bacterial colonization in canister filters

    Buy On Amazon

    Saltwater keepers know MarinePure as a top biological filtration option. BoxTech applies the same principle in a 3×3 block sized for canister filters. It’s a permanent solution that grows anaerobic bacteria to convert nitrates. No replacement needed once established, but like Biohome, it requires weeks to colonize before showing results.

    • Pros: Permanent, large surface area for bacteria, good fit for canister filters
    • Cons: Won’t fit most power filters, needs establishment period

    7. Dr. Tim’s Aquatics NP-Active Pearls: Marine Biologist Designed

    Dr. Tim’s Aquatics NP-Active Pearls

    Designed by marine biologist Dr. Tim Hovanec for nitrate and phosphate reduction

    Buy On Amazon

    Dr. Tim Hovanec is a marine biologist who made his reputation on nitrification research. These NP-Active Pearls are designed to reduce both nitrates and phosphates through controlled biological activity. The pearls feed beneficial bacteria that consume both compounds. They work well in reactors and high-flow filter areas. For freshwater applications, they’re a solid biological nitrate reducer, though the setup is slightly more involved than a simple media pad or biological block.

    • Pros: Designed by actual marine biologist, reduces both nitrates and phosphates, biological approach
    • Cons: Works best in reactors, more complex setup than alternatives

    8. IceCap Turf Scrubber: The Best Passive Nitrate Export System

    IceCap Turf Scrubber

    Permanent algae-based nitrate and phosphate export for freshwater and saltwater systems

    Buy On Amazon

    The IceCap Turf Scrubber grows algae under an LED light. You harvest the algae regularly, and with it you’re physically exporting the nitrates and phosphates the algae has consumed. It’s a genuinely elegant biological solution for hobbyists who want to reduce maintenance frequency. It works in freshwater and saltwater. The tradeoff is that it’s another piece of equipment to maintain and it requires space.

    • Pros: Natural nitrate export, permanent, works for both freshwater and saltwater
    • Cons: Requires additional space and regular algae harvesting

    9. Seachem Denitrate: Biological Media for Low-Flow Areas

    Seachem Denitrate

    Permanent biological media that promotes anaerobic bacterial growth for nitrate conversion

    Buy On Amazon

    Seachem Denitrate is a porous biological media specifically designed to support anaerobic bacteria that convert nitrates. It works best in areas of very low water flow, such as deep canister filter beds or static sumps, where oxygen is limited enough for anaerobic bacteria to thrive. It’s a permanent solution that takes time to establish but requires no ongoing replacement.

    • Pros: Permanent, specifically designed for anaerobic bacterial growth
    • Cons: Requires low-flow placement, takes time to establish

    10. Seachem Matrix: Dual-Purpose Biological Media

    Seachem Matrix

    High-surface-area biological media supporting both aerobic and anaerobic bacteria

    Click For Best Price
    Buy On Amazon

    Seachem Matrix is pumice-based biological media with high internal porosity. The outer surface supports aerobic bacteria for ammonia and nitrite conversion, while the inner pores, where oxygen is depleted, allow anaerobic bacteria that consume nitrates. It’s a well-engineered permanent solution that works across both stages of the nitrogen cycle in one product, similar in concept to Biohome but at a different price point.

    • Pros: Dual aerobic/anaerobic bacteria support, permanent, good surface area
    • Cons: Requires time to fully colonize, results vary with flow rate and placement

    BUY OR SKIP?

    Buy a nitrate remover if: Your nitrates consistently hit 40+ ppm between water changes, you have a heavily stocked fish-only tank without live plants, or you’re keeping sensitive species (discus, German blue rams, wild-caught cichlids) where parameter stability is critical. Skip the products if: Your problem is overstocking or water change neglect, in which case no product will substitute for fixing the root cause. And if your tank has healthy live plant coverage and light stocking, you likely don’t need additional intervention at all.

    MARK’S TOP PICK

    For a permanent solution: Biohome Ultimate Filter Media. It’s the most complete biological answer and once established, it genuinely reduces dependence on water changes. For a quick fix: Seachem Purigen. It works fast, the color indicator removes the guesswork, and it fits in power filters. These two cover the most common scenarios I see in freshwater tanks.

    WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

    The IceCap Turf Scrubber is almost never mentioned in freshwater nitrate discussions because it’s associated with reef tanks. That’s a missed opportunity. A freshwater turf scrubber exports nitrates and phosphates at the same time through algae harvesting, requires no media replacement, and scales with your system size. For a heavily stocked community tank where you want to reduce water change frequency, it’s one of the most efficient long-term solutions available. Most freshwater hobbyists never consider it.

    Should You Buy a Nitrate Remover?

    Good fit if:

    • You keep sensitive species that need nitrates consistently below 20 ppm
    • Your tank is heavily stocked and water changes alone aren’t keeping up
    • You want to extend intervals between water changes without sacrificing water quality
    • You have a canister filter and want to add a dedicated nitrate removal stage

    Avoid if:

    • You’re hoping a product will substitute for water changes entirely
    • Your problem is chronic overstocking (reduce stocking first)
    • You have a well-planted tank with appropriate stocking levels (plants are already handling it)

    FAQs

    What Is a Safe Nitrate Level for Freshwater Fish?

    Most freshwater community fish tolerate nitrates up to 40 ppm without visible stress. For sensitive species like discus, German blue rams, and wild-caught cichlids, keep it under 20 ppm. Goldfish are surprisingly tolerant and can handle higher levels, though consistently high nitrates shorten lifespan over time.

    How Fast Does Seachem Purigen Work?

    Purigen works within 24-48 hours for noticeable reduction. It’s not instantaneous, but it’s the fastest-acting option on this list other than a large water change. Monitor with a test kit after 48 hours to see your results.

    Can Live Plants Replace a Nitrate Remover?

    In a well-planted tank with appropriate stocking, yes. Dense planting with fast-growing species like hornwort, water wisteria, or stem plants can consume nitrates as fast as a lightly stocked tank produces them. In heavily stocked tanks or fish-only setups, plants alone won’t be enough.

    Will a Nitrate Remover Work in a Power Filter?

    It depends on the product. Seachem Purigen and the EA Premium Pad work in power filters. Biohome Mini version fits some power filters. Larger products like API Nitra-Zorb and the Acurel pad are designed for canister filters and often won’t fit in standard HOB units.

    How Long Does It Take for Biohome to Start Working?

    Biohome needs 4-8 weeks to fully establish anaerobic bacteria in a new setup. In a mature tank with existing bacteria, colonization can be faster. Don’t evaluate it before the 6-week mark. The wait is frustrating but the long-term results are worth it.

    Closing Thoughts

    Here’s the bottom line on nitrate management: the products on this list work, but they work best as part of a proper husbandry routine, not as a replacement for one. Biohome Ultimate is the best permanent solution for a seriously stocked freshwater tank. Seachem Purigen is the best quick intervention. For budget canister filter users, the Acurel pad delivers real results. And the IceCap Turf Scrubber is the overlooked option most freshwater keepers never consider.

    Start with your fundamentals: stock appropriately, change water consistently, and let your biological filtration do its job. Then layer in one of these products where it makes sense for your specific setup.

    For healthy livestock to stock your freshwater tank, check out Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Both carry quality freshwater fish that arrive healthy.


    Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide, your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Freshwater Aquarium – Words of Wisdom I Wish I Knew Before I Started

    Freshwater Aquarium – Words of Wisdom I Wish I Knew Before I Started

    Hello again fellow readers. Over the past few years, I have gone through a full dive into the freshwater aquarium hobby. As many of my friends and hobbyists know, I started in the hobby straight into saltwater aquariums and then into reef tanks. A couple of years ago, I posted a big piece of content titled words of wisdom I wish I knew before I started. As I got more into the freshwater side of the hobby, I thought to myself I should do the same with freshwater aquariums.

    Today’s post is going to be a long. Each one of these points can be a post on its own. My purpose is to place all these words of wisdom into a single post so you can reference it to anyone starting out in the freshwater aquarium hobby. I got a video below as well you can check out from our YouTube Channel.

    Key Takeaways

    • Education is the number one factor to have success. Research and trust authoritative blogs and experts in the field
    • Don’t cheap out on your setup, invest in quality equipment
    • Be careful with your livestock choices
    • Be patient with your setup and keep calm when things go wrong
    • Maintain your aquarium and avoid getting multiple fish tanks

    Freshwater Aquarium Words Of Wisdom – What I Wish I Knew Before I Started

    #1 – Educate Yourself

    Educate Yourself

    The freshwater hobby is very broad. I would say it is about 3-4 times more broad than the saltwater aquarium hobby. A saltwater hobbyist goes to corals at the ultimate goal while a freshwater aquarist can have many goals. You can go with a large predator tank, a planted tank, a small betta fish tank, or even a pond. This means that the hobby is always evolving. There are new breakthroughs every day and new subsets of the hobby. Such as in life, dedicate yourself to never stop learning about this hobby if you are passionate about it. Seek blogs like this one, videos, authoritative figures, etc.

    #2 – Patience Is Your Virtue

    Patience with Aquariums

    Read the image above and understand what it comes. Freshwater aquariums is all about doing everything you can to set yourself for success then letting go. You have to be patient about the results after you have taking the actions or setup the proper routines. Impatience will wreck you in this hobby.

    #3 – Know The Nitrogen Cycle

    The nitrogen cycle is the cornerstone piece of knowledge you must have to succeed in the fish hobby. The nitrogen cycle is a 5 stage process:

    1. Nitrogen is introduced with fish food
    2. Ammonia is excreted either by fish or decaying material
    3. Nitrosomas bacteria convert Ammonia to Nitrite
    4. Nitrobactor bacteria converts Nitrite to Nitrate
    5. Plants use Nitrates and Ammonium as fertilizer

    Your aquarium is a closed biosystem. Your biosystem needs to have a balance of enough bacteria to keep levels in check. Knowing your balance will keep you from overstocking and overwhelming your biosystem. You can check out the video below by Girl Talks Fish for a more detailed explanation.

     

    It is important to know that most stock filtration equipment will not offer you a full nitrogen cycle out of the box. There are two ways to resolve this. Either get live plants or invest in the best nitrate removers for freshwater aquariums. I recommend Biohome Ultimate for permanent solution or Purigen as a disposable solution.

    #4 – Involve Your Family

    Child Fish Tank

    Freshwater Aquariums offer a greater opportunity to get your family or loved ones involved in your hobby. The hobby is easier to understand and perform compared to saltwater aquariums and anyone with proper guidance and training can have fun and get involved. Do not isolate yourself in your hobby or passion. Invite your children if you have them or your loved one into your hobby. You can have reliable tank sitters when you are away and not panic when things go wrong and you are not present to fix them. A family that keeps fish together, stays together.

    #5 – Watch Out For Multiple Tank Syndrome

    Multiple Tank Syndrome

    Freshwater aquariums are more approachable and far easier to get lost in multiple tank syndrome than with saltwater tanks. For one, it’s way easier to handle water changes and multiple tanks since the you do not need a RODI system for the vast majority of setups. The other thing is that the freshwater hobby is so broad. It’s better to have specialty tanks then to attempt mixed community aquariums not to mention the various aquascaping styles with planted tanks.

    Avoid stretching yourself too thin as well as your wallet. Take your time to enjoy your current aquarium and learn from it. When you are ready for the next steps, consider an upgrade and not an additional fish tank.

    #6 – Join A Local Club

    Aquarium Society Meeting

    A local aquarium club or society can be transformation in journey in this hobby. You can meet many people of different backgrounds and experience. One of the biggest benefits to joining a club is the mentorships you can obtain if you are looking for advanced techniques and freshwater fish keeping methods. You can check out a list of local aquarium clubs in our prior blog post.

    #7 – Don’t Take LFS Advice at Full Value

    There is a higher likelihood that you will get a knowledgeable employee at a local fish store (AKA LFS) when it comes to freshwater aquariums. However, remember that the freshwater hobby is vast. It’s very possible that the employee can be an expert on say Discus Tanks and be completely clueless on how to dry start an Iwagumi aquascape. Always do your research, be prepared, and have a plan before you walk into your local fish store.

    #8 – Everyone On A Forum Has An Opinion

    There are many great forums online that you can join to learn more about the hobby. Be careful of bad information and people trying to give you an answer to help but may not know the best answer.

    When it comes to freshwater aquariums I would look at social proof. Is the person giving you advice have the type of tank that you want? Does this person have proven knowledge in the hobby.

    To provide you a good example, there are many blogs on the internet about tank equipment. Some of them are written with bad advice to sell you a product rather than educate you. Others I would have serious doubts if author bio on the bottom is a real person.

    This blog and site was founded by me, Mark Valderrama. I have been featured on NBCNews, Slate, Buzzfeed, and Huffington post regarding care about our hobby. I am the peer adviser of two books written about aquariums, Freshwater Aquariums for Dummies 3rd edition and Saltwater Aquariums for Dummies 3rd edition. I have owned both freshwater fish and saltwater aquariums.

    There are many influencers in the freshwater space, more so than the reefing hobby. Many are true experts in the field versus entertainers. Take your time to do your due diligence.

    #9 – Don’t Overstock

    Overstocked Aquarium

    The general rule you hear in the freshwater hobby is the 1 inch of fish per gallon. I cringe when I hear this rule, because it’s way too broad. Some freshwater fish, like goldfish, are big and bulky, and are hard on a bioload. Other fish, like Cichlids, are territorial and need shelter and space. The 1 inch of fish per gallon is okay for schooling fish like Tetras, but it fails on just about everything else. Too many fish can also lead to poor quality water and a cloudy fish tank.

    If you want to look up stocking levels, I would highly suggest using AqAdvisor as a tool. It will provide a comprehensive calculation for your stock, and allow you to plan correctly for your aquarium.

    #10 – Betta Fish Do Not Belong In A Bowl

    Betta Fish Bowl

    You see Betta all the time at local pet stores in bowls. You also probably see a bunch of Betta Fish Tank sets available at the same said stores. I will tell you right now that this is not healthy long-term for a Betta. Bettas are best served in at least a 5 gallon aquarium. Give your pet Betta a better life by giving it an environment that it would enjoy. Check out our Betta Fish Care guide for more info on these wonderful fish.

    #11 – Goldfish Do Not Belong In A Bowl

    Goldfish Bowl

    This is another soapbox moment for me. Goldfish get large and need a lot of space to get to their full size. A goldfish bowl is not healthy for them long term. They are also freshwater fish that are very hard on a bioload since they eat so much and produce a ton of waste. Treat your pet goldfish to a proper aquarium setup so they can reach their full size and potential. Check out our Goldfish Tank care guide for more info on these popular fish.

    #12 – Leave Large Aggressive Fish For The Vets

    Large Aggressive Fish

    You may walk into this hobby wanting to get large aggressive freshwater fish. After all, many like Arowanas, Oscars, Jewel Cichlids, and Jack Dempsey are very beautiful large fish. The problem with these fish are multiple. They get very large and require very large aquariums. This means you have to invest a lot in getting the proper sized tank for them. They are very aggressive and so you have to be very careful who you house with them. Some of these fish are so aggressive that they have no issues with trying to go after your hands when feeding them! Worse yet, some of these fish are large and powerful enough to crack aquariums that are too small for them. The wolf cichlid is notorious for their super aggressive nature as an example.

    Large fish also require a ton of food. Due to their aggression, they are known for getting wounds from fighting or just thrashing about in your tank. These wounds can lead to infections. Keep large aggressive fish for the experts or those with the budgets you can handle them.

    #13 – Filtration Matters

    Hagen Aquaclear

    It can be really tempting to just buy a cheap filter to get you started on your freshwater aquarium. The hobby makes it very easy to get into with entry level filters or cheap filters made in China. The problem is not all filters are created the same and as your tank matures, you need better filtration. I would recommend at minimum an Aquarium Power Filter for most freshwater aquarium setups and a Canister Filter for planted tanks. Save the sponge filters for specialized tanks like Freshwater Shrimp Tanks or fry raising. There are very good brand names in the freshwater hobby make quality equipment like Hagen and Eheim. Their equipment is built to last for many years.

    #14 – Start Bigger Than Necessary

    Bigger is Better

    If you are starting out in the hobby, the best advice is to buy the biggest tank for your setup that you can afford. The bigger the tank, the more stability you would have. If you are going for a smaller aquarium like a 5 gallon or 10 gallon aquarium, I would suggest going with an all in one aquarium so you have everything setup and ready to go for you. The main issue with smaller tanks is it is hard to grow with them and often times you outgrow the tank quickly or get overzealous and overpopulate the tank.

    #15 – Get A Good Test Kit

    Keeping a successful aquarium means you are in tune with your tank and its water quality parameters. You want to get in the habit of regularly testing your water so you can spot changes in your biosystem before its too late. Not all test kits are created equal. See our post on the Best Freshwater Aquarium Test Kits for our picks. Don’t have time to read that post? No problem, I would recommend the API Freshwater Master Test Kit for most freshwater setups.

    #16 – Get A Good Gravel Vacuum

    Python Cleaner

    The Python is a mainstay in the fish hobby. Easily clean your aquarium by connecting this to your sink!

    Buy On Amazon

    If you have an aquarium substrate, a gravel vacuum is a critical tool. A quality gravel vacuum can pull out all sorts of junk out of your substrate. There are lots of waste that accumulates in your gravel bed and without vacuuming you run of having waste decay and cause nutrient spikes down the road. The best gravel vacuum in my experience is the Python gravel vacuum. It connects directly to your sink and is very convenient to use.

    #17 – Set A Maintenance Schedule

    Set A Schedule

    Setting a maintenance schedule and sticking to it is a long-term habit in our hobby. There are a lot of things to consider when keeping a fish tank, so it’s best to write things down as set reminders for yourself in order to keep up with your tank. Here are suggestions I would have of maintenance tasks to keep track of:

    • Daily
      • Dose fertilizer
      • Check bubble counter and drop checker color
      • Check water level – top off if needed
      • Observe your fish for any obvious signs of disease or stress
    • Weekly
      • Water change 15-20%
      • Check all your equipment to ensure working order
      • Clean glass, hardscape, and plant leaves
      • Trim your live plants if you have them
      • Check CO2 canister – refill as needed
      • Test your water
    • Monthly
      • Clean out your filters – wash down after cleaning with aquarium water
      • Clean pipes and strainers

    Some setups are easier to maintain then others. You can always look into a self cleaning fish tank, if you want something less maintenance heavy. Most will be powered by natural filtration.

    #18 – Have Backup Equipment

    Backup Aquarium Equipment

    The harsh reality of our aquarium equipment is that they are subjected to being in hard conditions being underwater with our livestock. Eventually, equipment does break and they can be expensive to replace. The unfortunate fact is our equipment tends to go down at the worst times. The best way to prevent a disaster is to have a back up plan. Having back up equipment is the best step we can make. Here is backup equipment we want to have in for our freshwater aquarium.

    #19 – Have A Plan When The Power Goes Out

    Power Outage Aquarium

    Fish Tank Power outages are one of the most common cause of tank crashes in our hobby. It is a really helpless feeling when the power is out and you watch all your livestock slowly die because you have no backup plan. Don’t let this be you! Be proactive and develop a plan of action when it happens (because it will!).

    The great thing about freshwater aquariums is that many can get by with a couple of battery powered air pumps. For others with larger aquariums we can consider a battery backup air pump. For those with large investments in their aquariums, you may want to consider a mobile generator or a whole home generator.

    #20 – CO2 Matters (It’s Easier Than You Think!)

    CO2 Aquarium

    As we have learned in our Best CO2 System for Planted Aquarium post, the golden ticket to fast grow in plants is CO2. 50% of your plants dry mass is carbon. A live plant will use 10 times more carbon than any other macro or micro nutrient. Knowing these fact, many hobbyists are still intimated by CO2. Sometimes it’s the cost to setup and other times it’s being intimated by the complexity.

    CO2 systems are much easier to setup and dial than you think. One you have one setup and running, it’s mostly just reading your drop checker and adjusting your inject levels to stay within level. Many hobbyists I talked to post install usually tell me they wish they did it earlier. Take the plunge and get some killer growth in your plants!

    #21 – No CO2? Go Low Tech!

    Low Tech Planted Tank

    Is a CO2 setup out of your budget? If so, pivoting to a low tech planted tank is a great alternative. A low tech tank is a freshwater aquarium with live plants that do not use CO2 injection. Building a thriving low tech tank requires proper selection of live plants. You want to work with plants that do well under low light, will generally feed in the water column, and are hardy. Check out our best low light aquarium plants and best beginner aquarium plants post for a full list of plants that are ideal for low tech. For those who don’t have the time to read, my go to for low tech are Java Fern and Anubias.

    #22 – Not All Fertilizers Are Created Equal

    Editor’s Choice!
    APT Complete

    Editor’s Choice

    Made by an aquascaper for aquascapers. This is the best all around aquarium plant fertilizer on the market. Marco and micronutrients in one bottle!

    Use Coupon Code ASDComplete for 10% off your order!

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    We learned in our Best Aquarium Plant Fertilizers post that fertilization is one of the 3 cornerstones of planted tank success. Unfortunately, we also learned that fertilizers are not all created equal. The most popular fertilizers sold in planted tanks are usually designed for low tech planted tanks. Those with full planted tanks or high need better fertilizers. In addition, many fertilizers do not have guaranteed analysis info and hide behind their brand names. We swear by APT Complete for our fertilization needs.

    #23 – Red Plants Are Harder To Grow Than Green Plants

    Red Aquarium Plant

    Red plants are typically harder to care for than green plants. This is due to their stronger light requirements, more specific spectrum requirements, and nitrate needs.

    They generally should be avoided by beginners. If you want to try out a red plants, consider an easier to care for species like Cyptocoryne ‘flamingo’ or Red Amazon Swords.

    #24 – A Quality Light Matters For Planted Tanks

    Best Value
    Serene RGB Pro LED

    Current USA’s offering into aquascaping is an incredible value. Spectrum, spread, easy to program and great PAR output.

    Click For Best Price Buy On Amazon

    We learned in our Best LED Lights for Planted Tanks post that lighting is one of the 3 cornerstones of planted tank success. Lighting is broken down into three elements that we need to know are adequate in the lighting fixture we purchase:

    • Spectrum
    • PAR
    • Spread

    We learned that there is an ideal plant spectrum and that different plants have different PAR requirements. Shading can also be problematic with taller plants so spread is a major factor in our decision for our fixture.

    The Serene Pro RGB LED we feel is the best comprehensive planted tank light in the industry. It excels in all 3 elements and will work with most planted tank setups.

    #25 – Dip Your Plants

    Dipping your plants should be something all planted aquarium owners should do before introducing plants in their aquarium. Plants can introduce pests and disease such as snails and parasites like ich and planaria. By using this method by Lifewithpets above, you can eliminate pest hitchikers from your plants. For parasites, you can consider a quarantine period for your plants in a separate tank. You can do even better by select lab grown plants, which tend to be pest and disease free for extra safety.

    #26 – Aquascaping Tools Are Amazing!

    Stainless Steel Aquascaping Tools

    Look cool and get the job done right with these stainless steel aquascaping tools. For for fine detailing on your scape!

    Buy On Amazon

    Proper Aquascaping tools are amazing when it comes to maintaining your planted tank. Curve scissors make it easy to cut down ground cover and smaller plants while prune shares will cut your taller plants. The tweezers are great for moving plants around and handling new arrivals. The substrate spatula is excellent for keeping your substrate tidy and even. I can’t imagine handling a planted tank without one. It’s a must purchase in my mind if you are serious about keeping a planted tank.

     

    #27 – Not All Substrates Are Created Equal

    Editor’s Choice!
    ADA Aqua Soil

    The Best Planted Tank Substrate

    The world’s standard in active substrates for planted tanks. Created by brand that founded modern aquascaping

    Buy On Amazon

    In our best aquarium substrate for planted tank post, we talked about active vs inactive substrates. Active substrates are ones that alter our water chemistry and break down over time. As this substrate breaks down, they fertilize our aquarium plants. This means active substrate amazing for rooted plants and ground cover. They are also preferred for dry starts as you can grow some plants in the substrate before you flood your tank. This results in healthy plant growth from the start, a short/nearly instant cycle, and less algae problems.

    In contrast, an inactive substrate will not alter your water chemistry. It will not breakdown. However, some inactive substrates are designed to absorb nutrients and still work well for rooted plants. If you are going with a traditional gravel bed, you may want to consider column feeding live plants since it will be more difficult to support root plants in gravel.

    #28 – Driftwood Can Leach Tannins

    In our Best Driftwood for Aquariums post, we talked about tannins and how to prevent your aquarium for getting that unappealing tea color. The best two ways to prevent this are:

    • Select a driftwood with a low tannin count
    • Prep your driftwood properly

    We learned from our post that Manzanita, Spider wood, and Tiger wood have a low amount of tannins and are the preferred driftwood types to work with.

    Prepping your driftwood will also save you a world of headache getting that tea color out. Boil your driftwood until the tea color is gone and use carbon media to get rid of any discoloration that comes from the leftover tannins.

    #29 – Not All Rocks Are Safe For Usage

    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes

    Buy On Buce Plant Buy On Glass Aqua

    In our best rocks for freshwater aquarium post, we learned that not all rocks are safe for aquariums. Some rocks can alter our water chemistry. Some like limestone will raise the pH and hardness, which is great for an African Cichlid Tank, but bad for the majority of tropical freshwater fish. Other rocks, like the ones you can pick up at your local river could contain harmful chemicals or bacteria that can wipe our your tank.The preferred rock for freshwater aquarium is granite and there are many types of available in our hobby. I would recommend Seiryu Rock for most aquarium projects.

    #30 – Learn To Aquascape

    Learning the types of freshwater aquascape styles and how to design them will take your tanks to the next level. If you want to have stunning award winning looking tanks, it all starts with learning how to aquascape. Start by learning the various type of styles and design concepts like the rule of two thirds and tension vs harmony. What makes aquascaping amazing in this hobby is it is all derived from art, photo techniques, and garden scape designs. It is a true art form that is very rewarding when you create a major work of art. You can get started by learning about a few of the aquascape styles below

    Final Thoughts

    That was a long post wasn’t it :). Well, I hope you enjoyed reading and took away some words of wisdom. As always, please share and subscribe to our newsletter. If you have any tips you would like to share, please leave us a comment below. Thanks for reading and see you next time!


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • 9 Best Driftwood for Aquariums – Types, Tips & What to Avoid

    9 Best Driftwood for Aquariums – Types, Tips & What to Avoid

    Driftwood does two jobs in an aquarium, and most people only think about one of them. The visual job is obvious: it gives a tank structure, depth, and a natural anchor for plants like Java fern and Anubias. The chemical job is the one that surprises people. Depending on the wood type and the size of the piece, driftwood can lower pH, release tannins that stain the water brown, and break down slowly over years. Pick the wrong type for your fish, and you’re fighting your own decor. I’ve used many types in planted tanks, shrimp setups, and community tanks, and each one behaves differently.

    Driftwood is not just decoration. It’s an active part of your water chemistry.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After 25 years keeping fish and running aquarium stores, here’s what I tell every customer before they buy driftwood: soak it before it goes in the tank. Every piece. Even if the seller says it’s pre-treated. A minimum 1-week soak in a bucket, with water changes every couple of days, removes the bulk of tannins and ensures the wood sinks properly. Driftwood that isn’t fully waterlogged will float and stress your fish. Driftwood that dumps heavy tannins into a new tank can crash your pH faster than you’d expect. Soak first. Always.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice

    Manzanita

    • Low tannins
    • Multiple size pieces
    Best Value

    Tigerwood

    • Low tannins
    • Showpiece sizes available
    Budget Option

    Spiderwood

    • Unique shape
    • Great for smaller tanks

    WHY THIS RANKING

    Rankings here factor in four things: tannin output and how it affects water chemistry, how quickly each wood fully waterloggs and sinks, durability over months and years in the tank, and visual impact across different tank styles. Cheap wood that floats for weeks or rots within months doesn’t belong on this list regardless of price. The top picks here stay down, break down slowly, and work with your fish rather than against them.

    What People Get Wrong About Aquarium Driftwood

    The most common mistake is buying without thinking about tannins. Tannins are natural compounds in wood that leach into the water and lower pH while staining it amber or brown. For blackwater fish like discus, cardinal tetras, or wild bettas, this is actually ideal. For African cichlids or goldfish, which prefer hard, alkaline water, it works against you and stresses your fish. The wood type you pick needs to match the chemistry needs of your fish, not just look good in your tank.

    The second mistake is skipping the soak. Wood that isn’t fully waterlogged floats. It will float up, dislodge plants and decorations, and frustrate you for weeks. Some types take longer than others to sink: spider wood sinks relatively fast, while denser pieces like Manzanita can take longer depending on the piece. Don’t put it in the tank until it sinks reliably in a bucket on its own.

    The third mistake: ignoring white mold growth. A fuzzy white coating sometimes appears on new driftwood within the first few weeks in the tank. It’s a natural biofilm, not harmful, and most fish and shrimp will pick at it and eat it. It resolves on its own. If you see it and panic-remove the wood to scrub it, you’ve done more work than necessary.

    The Biggest Mistake

    Adding driftwood directly to an established, stable tank without soaking first. I’ve seen hobbyists do this with large pieces of spiderwood or Manzanita and watch their pH drop a full point within 48 hours. For fish that are sensitive to pH changes, that’s a stress event that can trigger disease. Tannin leaching is heaviest in the first few weeks. Soak the wood first, do multiple water changes during the soak, and the chemistry impact when it goes into the tank is manageable.

    The Candidates: A Quick Comparison

    Picture Name Best For Link
    Editor’s Choice!

    Manzanita Driftwood

    Manzanita Driftwood

    Low Tannins

    Click For Best Price
    Best Value

    Tigerwood

    Tigerwood

    Low Tannins

    Click For Best Price
    Budget Option

    Spiderwood

    Spiderwood

    Unique shape

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Buce Plant WSYIWYG Driftwood Buce Plant WYSIWYG Driftwood

    Showpieces

    Click For Best Price
    Bonsai Driftwood Bonsai Driftwood

    Best Shape

    Click For Best Price
    Fluval Mopani Wood Fluval Mopani Wood

    Brand Name

    Buy On Amazon
    Koyal Wholesale California Driftwood Koyal Wholesale California Driftwood

    Budget Pick

    Buy On Amazon
    Hamiledyi Driftwood Hamiledyi Driftwood

    Price

    Buy On Amazon
    NiloG Cholla Wood NiloG Cholla Wood

    Best For Shrimp Tanks

    Buy on Amazon

    The 9 Best Driftwood Types Reviewed

    1. Manzanita: The Best Overall

    Editor’s Choice
    Manzanita Driftwood
    Manzanita Driftwood

    The best all-around driftwood for most planted and community tank setups.

    Click For Best Price

    Manzanita is the driftwood I reach for in planted tanks and community setups, and it’s not close. The branching structure creates natural hardscape anchor points for Java fern, Anubias, and mosses. Tannin output is low compared to most other types, which means the water chemistry impact is minimal. It’s dense enough to sink in a reasonable time with proper soaking, and it’s durable enough to last years in the tank without rotting or breaking down structurally.

    I’ve used Manzanita in planted community tanks, betta setups, and aquascapes where the visual profile matters. It photographs well, it works at every scale from small to large, and it doesn’t bully your fish with chemistry swings. If you don’t know what to buy and you’re keeping a community freshwater tank, this is the answer.

    Pros
    • Low tannin output
    • Excellent branching structure for plants
    • Dense and durable
    Cons
    • Can take longer to sink than lighter woods
    • Higher price point for premium pieces

    2. Tigerwood

    Tigerwood has a distinctive striped grain pattern that makes it one of the most visually striking options available. Like Manzanita, tannin output is relatively low. It comes in showpiece sizes that can anchor a large display tank, which separates it from most competitors in the mid-range category. Choose Tigerwood over Manzanita if the visual grain of the wood matters to you and you want a statement piece rather than a branching structure for plants.

    Pros
    • Striking visual grain
    • Low tannins
    • Available in large showpiece sizes
    Cons
    • Less branching structure than Manzanita
    • Fewer plant attachment options

    3. Spiderwood

    Spiderwood is the first choice for small tanks and nano setups. The thin, spidery branching structure creates visual depth and complexity in a small footprint, which makes it uniquely suited to 10-gallon and under tanks where a large piece of Manzanita would be overwhelming. It’s also the fastest to sink of any wood on this list. It does leach more tannins than Manzanita or Tigerwood, so soak it properly. The surface texture is one shrimp genuinely love: they graze it constantly, picking at the biofilm that develops on the surface.

    Pros
    • Ideal for nano and small tanks
    • Sinks quickly
    • Excellent shrimp grazing surface
    Cons
    • Higher tannin output than Manzanita
    • Thinner branches can break

    4. Buce Plant WYSIWYG Driftwood

    What You See Is What You Get driftwood from Buce Plant is exactly that: you’re buying a specific, photographed piece, not a random selection from a bin. For a display tank where the exact shape and size of the centerpiece matters, this is the right approach. You pay more for the certainty. If you’re building an aquascape around a specific layout, WYSIWYG sourcing removes the guesswork.

    Pros
    • Exactly what you see in the photo
    • Great for display aquascape planning
    • Quality-vetted pieces
    Cons
    • More expensive than random selection
    • Limited availability on specific pieces

    5. Bonsai Driftwood

    Bonsai driftwood is pre-shaped to mimic the look of a bonsai tree, which creates an instant focal point in any tank. It’s a designed piece, not a natural one, but the visual effect is genuinely striking. Most bonsai pieces are sold with or are intended to have moss or plants attached to the branches, which reinforces the tree silhouette. If the aquascape is built around a tree motif, this is the most direct path to that look.

    Pros
    • Dramatic visual focal point
    • Purpose-built for plant attachment
    • Consistent shape and structure
    Cons
    • Less natural-looking than raw driftwood
    • Can look staged if not planted well

    6. Fluval Mopani Wood

    Mopani is an African hardwood with a two-tone coloring: pale and dark areas that create natural contrast. It’s extremely dense, which means it sinks reliably without extended soaking. The trade-off: it’s one of the heaviest tannin producers on this list. A fresh piece of Mopani in an established tank will stain the water dark amber within a day or two. Soak it for at least two weeks with daily water changes before it goes in. Once the initial tannin dump is over, it’s a durable, long-lasting piece. Fluval’s version is pre-boiled and treated, which reduces but does not eliminate the initial tannin release.

    Pros
    • Extremely dense, sinks quickly
    • Beautiful two-tone coloring
    • Long-lasting in the tank
    Cons
    • Heavy tannin producer
    • Requires extended soaking before use

    7. Koyal Wholesale California Driftwood

    California driftwood is the budget option on this list, and it shows in both price and consistency. Pieces vary significantly in shape, size, and quality because it’s sold as natural collected wood without the same curation as specialty aquarium driftwood. For a beginner tank where the goal is natural decor at low cost, it’s workable. For an aquascape where every element is intentional, the variability is a problem. Soak thoroughly and inspect for any signs of rot before use.

    Pros
    • Very affordable
    • Natural look
    • Works for basic community tank setups
    Cons
    • Significant piece-to-piece variability
    • Less consistent quality than specialty options

    8. Hamiledyi Driftwood

    Hamiledyi is another budget-tier option sold primarily on Amazon, available in various sizes. Quality control is inconsistent, and the wood is softer than hardwood specialty options, meaning it breaks down faster over time. For a short-term setup, a quarantine tank, or a tank where cost is the only constraint, it does the job. Don’t expect it to look the same in two years as it does today.

    Pros
    • Cheap and widely available
    • Multiple sizes
    Cons
    • Softer wood, breaks down faster
    • Inconsistent quality

    9. NilocG Cholla Wood

    Cholla wood is in a category by itself. It’s not a traditional driftwood type: it’s the dried skeleton of a cholla cactus, which gives it a hollow, tubular structure that no other wood on this list has. Shrimp go absolutely crazy for it. The hollow interior gives them shelter and a surface covered in biofilm to graze. It does break down faster than hardwoods, typically within 6 to 12 months depending on tank conditions. Plan to replace it. In a shrimp tank, that’s a trade-off most shrimp keepers accept without hesitation.

    Pros
    • Best option specifically for shrimp tanks
    • Hollow structure provides shelter
    • Excellent biofilm surface
    Cons
    • Breaks down in 6 to 12 months
    • Not a long-term centerpiece option

    BUY OR SKIP?

    Buy if: You want natural structure and a platform for low-light plants, you’re building a blackwater or biotope setup where tannins are a feature rather than a problem, or you’re running a shrimp tank where surface biofilm matters. Skip if: Your fish require hard, alkaline water and any pH drop would stress them, or your tank is already established and you don’t want to manage the tannin leaching period. For African cichlid tanks or goldfish tanks: don’t use it without very thorough preparation.

    Should You Add Driftwood?

    Good Fit If:

    • You keep soft, acidic water fish: tetras, bettas, discus, apistogrammas, or wild-type South American species
    • You’re running a planted tank and need anchor points for Java fern, Anubias, or mosses
    • You’re keeping a shrimp colony that needs hiding spots and biofilm grazing surface
    • You want to build a natural-looking aquascape with visual depth

    Avoid If:

    • Your fish require hard, alkaline water and pH stability is critical
    • You’re not prepared to soak the wood properly before adding it to the tank
    • Your tank is brand new and still cycling: adding tannin load to a cycling tank complicates the process

    MARK’S TOP PICK

    Manzanita for most freshwater tanks. It’s the best combination of low tannins, good structure for plant attachment, long-term durability, and visual impact at multiple tank scales. For shrimp tanks, add Cholla Wood alongside whatever hardscape you choose. For large showpiece tanks where you want a dramatic centerpiece, Tigerwood in a showpiece size. For nano tanks under 10 gallons, Spiderwood every time.

    WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

    White fuzzy mold on new driftwood is normal and harmless. It’s a biofilm that develops when new organic material enters the tank, and fish and shrimp will eat it on their own. The instinct is to panic-remove the wood and scrub it, which does nothing except stress your fish and reset the process. Leave it. It resolves within a week or two in most tanks. If you want to speed it up, a few otocinclus or nerite snails will clean it up faster than any intervention you’d try manually.

    Closing Thoughts

    Driftwood is one of the best investments you can make in a freshwater aquarium. It gives fish shelter and territory, gives plants a natural anchor, and gives the tank a visual depth that artificial decor simply cannot replicate. The key is matching the wood type to your fish and their water chemistry needs, soaking it properly before it goes in, and understanding that tannins are a feature in some tanks and a problem in others.

    My pick for most setups: Manzanita. Soak it for a week minimum, rinse it, and it’ll serve your tank for years. For shrimp tanks, add Cholla Wood. For nano builds, Spiderwood.

    For quality fish that deserve a natural environment, I consistently recommend Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish. Good livestock in a well-built tank makes every piece of driftwood worth it.

  • 9 Best Rocks for Freshwater Aquariums – Aquascape in Style

    9 Best Rocks for Freshwater Aquariums – Aquascape in Style

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After 25 years setting up freshwater aquariums and managing fish stores, the rock question trips people up constantly. Most hobbyists pick rocks based on looks. That is the wrong approach. Chemistry comes first. If the rock raises pH and hardness, it will work against every plant and soft-water fish in the tank. I have seen beautiful Seiryu-style aquascapes fail because the keeper did not test their water first. At one store I managed, we had a 75-gallon planted display tank that ran stable at pH 7.0 for months. A customer donated several large pieces of what turned out to be limestone. Within two weeks the pH had climbed to 7.6 and the CO2 injection was fighting a losing battle. We pulled the rocks, did a water change, and it came back down. Know your rock before it goes in the tank.

    Rock selection shapes your aquarium more than almost any other decision. Pick the wrong rock and your pH creeps up week after week, your plants stop growing, and your soft-water fish start showing stress. Pick the right one and the entire scape looks intentional and the chemistry stays stable. After 25 years in this hobby, including time running fish stores, I have seen both outcomes plenty of times. This guide gives you the straight answer on which rocks work, which ones will quietly wreck your water chemistry, and which is right for your specific setup.

    The number one mistake: choosing a rock based on appearance without knowing how it affects your water.

    WHY THIS RANKING

    Every rock on this list was evaluated against three criteria: chemistry impact (does it alter pH or hardness?), practical availability for aquarists, and real-world performance in freshwater setups. Rocks are split by use case: planted tanks, general freshwater, and African cichlid setups. A rock ranked highly for planted tanks would be a disaster in an African cichlid build, so the context matters.

    What People Get Wrong About Aquarium Rocks

    Most people assume any rock from a garden center or river is fine for a fish tank. It is not. Rocks containing calcium carbonate will dissolve slowly and raise both pH and hardness, sometimes dramatically. In a planted tank aiming for pH 6.8 to 7.0, a chunk of limestone can push you to 7.8 or higher within weeks. Your plants stall, your tetras and rasboras get stressed, and the problem is hard to diagnose because the water still looks clear.

    The other common error: thinking all rocks are either safe or unsafe. The reality is more useful than that. Some rocks raise pH on purpose and that is exactly what African cichlid keepers want. Knowing what a rock does is what matters.

    This is not just hobbyist observation. Research on aquarium water chemistry and carbonate dissolution rates consistently shows that calcium carbonate-bearing rocks produce measurable pH and hardness increases within days to weeks of submersion, depending on surface area and tank volume. A 2019 study published in Aquaculture Reports confirmed that limestone additions to soft-water systems can raise pH by 0.5 to 1.2 units within 48 hours. For a planted tank or soft-water community setup, that shift is significant.

    What to Look For When Purchasing A Rock for a Freshwater Aquarium

    In general, the vast majority of freshwater fish and plants prefer softer water and lower pH. Knowing this fact, we want to avoid rocks that are high in calcium. Rocks high in calcium will alter the water chemistry of our aquarium. It will result in our water becoming hard. They also will alter the pH of the aquarium making our aquarium alkaline in nature. That is great for African Cichlids and Saltwater Tanks, but will be disastrous for most tropical fish we can purchase.

    We need to break down rocks further to understand what makes a good freshwater aquarium rock. Let’s dive into the types of rocks.

    The Three Types For Your Tank

    We can separate freshwater aquarium rocks into three categories: igneous, sedimentary, and metamorphic rocks.

    Igneous

    Black Lava Rock

    Igneous rock is any type of crystalline or glassy rock. These are formed by the cooling and solidification of molten earth material. Aquarium rocks in our trade of this type would include dolerite, gabbro, granite, basalt, and lava rock.

    Sedimentary

    Limestone Rock

    Sedimentary rock are rocks that are formed by the accumulation or deposition of small particles and subsequent cementation. Aquarium rocks in our trade of this type would include marl, limestone, sandstone, breccia, conglomerate, and shale.

    Metamorphic

    Slate Stone

    Metamorphic rocks arise from the transformation of existing rock types. The original rock form was subjected to heat and pressure which cause physical or chemical change. Aquarium rocks in our trade of this type would include quartzite, dolomite, marble, schist, slate, and hornfels.

    They Can Alter Chemistry

    Now that I explained the types of rocks, let’s talk about the aquariums rocks that can alter the chemistry of our tanks. We can separate them into two types. 

    • Aquarium Rocks that lower pH and soften water
    • Aquarium Rocks that increase pH and harden water

    If we are looking to lower pH and soften our water, we want to use aquarium rocks like sandstone and basalt. If we are looking to increase pH and harden our water, we want to use aquarium rocks like marble and limestone

    There are also rocks that serve functions with planted aquariums. For example, lava rocks can be used to fertilize aquatics plants. Granite is one of the safest rocks to use in an aquarium due to its neutral nature. It is also one of the heaviest.

    Should You Buy Rocks For Your Aquarium?

    Good fit if:

    • You are building a planted tank or Iwagumi-style aquascape and want a focal point
    • You keep African cichlids and need pH buffering from limestone
    • You want natural hiding spots for bottom-dwelling or territorial fish
    • You understand how to test your water and will monitor chemistry after adding rocks

    Avoid if:

    • You keep soft-water species like discus or wild-type cardinal tetras and do not want to test water frequently
    • You are buying rocks from a garden center without knowing their mineral content
    • You want to add rocks from a river or local source without researching rock type first

    BUY OR SKIP?

    Buy aquarium rocks if you care about the long-term look and chemistry of your tank. Skip the cheap garden-store options and go with proven aquarium-grade sources. The rock matters more than most people realize, and getting it wrong creates ongoing water chemistry problems that are genuinely frustrating to diagnose and fix.

    9 That Are Safe For Fresh Tanks

    Now that we have a base understanding of rocks for freshwater aquariums, it’s time to talk about the best ones to buy. Below is a recommended list of the best freshwater aquarium rocks you can purchase online. I’ll go in more detail in my reviews of each.

    In a hurry? I recommend Ohko Dragon Stone!

    Picture Name Best For Link
    Editor’s Choice!

    Ohko Dragon Stone

    Ohko Dragon Stone

    Planted Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Glass Aqua
    Best Value

    Black Mountain Seiryu Stone

    Black Mountain Seiryu Stone

    Planted Tanks

    Click For Best Price
    Budget Option

    Black Lava Rock

    Black Lava Rock

    Planted Tanks

    Click For Best Price
    Traditional Seiryu Stone Traditional Seiryu Stone

    Planted Tanks

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Glass Aqua
    Premium Pick!

    Buceplant WYSIWYG Stones

    Buceplant WYSIWYG Stones

    Planted Tanks

    Click For Best Price
    Lifegard Aquatics Redwood Petrified Stone Lifegard Aquatics Redwood Petrified Stone

    Planted Tanks

    Buy On AmazonBuy On Chewy
    Penn-Plax Deco-Replicas Ornament Series Penn-Plax Deco-Replicas Ornament Series

    Cichlids

    Buy On Amazon
    Small World Slate & Stone Rock Small World Slate & Stone Rock

    Freshwater Tanks

    Buy On Amazon
    Texas Holey Rock Texas Holey Rock

    African Cichlids

    Buy On Amazon

    Let’s take a closer look as to why these rocks stand out so much!

    1. Ohko Dragon Stone – Great for Planted Tanks

    Editor’s Choice!


    Ohko Dragon Stone

    Editor’s Choice

    Ohko is the premier aquascaping rock today. Granite based with amazing shapes and selection


    Buy on Buce Plant


    Buy on Glass Aqua

    Ohko Dragon Stone is one of the preferred aquarium rocks to use in Iwagumi Aquascapes. These rocks are not only beautiful, they are also natural in nature. They will not alter your pH or hardness being granite based. They will look fantastic in any planted tank setup. They are full of holes, nooks and crannies making them very good rocks for natural shelter for your fish.

    These are the hot rocks for pro aquascaping projects these days. Check out the video above from BucePlant to see how amazing they look. Like any preferred aquascaper rock, they do have a higher price tag.

    Pros

    • Rocks do not alter pH or hardness
    • Great looking rocks
    • Lots of sizes available

    Cons

    • Price

    Best For – Planted Tanks

    MARK’S TOP PICK

    Ohko Dragon Stone is my go-to for planted tanks. It is granite-based so it will not budge your pH or hardness, and the irregular shapes and deep crevices photograph better than any other rock in this category. If budget is tight, Black Lava Rock from BucePlant is the closest alternative that delivers on both chemistry safety and visual texture without the premium price.

    2. Black Mountain Seiryu Stone – Best Value In Unique-Looking Stones

    Best Vaue


    Black Mountain Seiryu Stone

    Best Value

    With an amazing black and white contrast, black mountain is an excellent choice for any aquascape. It is reasonably priced!


    Click For Best Price

    If you are looking for a unique looking aquarium rock, check out Black Mountain Seiryu Stone. The unique white veins really pop in an aquascape. They will not alter your pH or hardness so you can add them to any aquarium setup. These rocks are hard to find so be on the look out if you like them and want to buy one. The great thing from buying from our link is that Buce sells super high quality Black Seiryu and in packs up to 30lbs! 

    Pros

    • Rocks do not alter pH or hardness
    • Amazing unique look
    • Lots of sizes available

    Cons

    • Availability
    • Price

    Best For – Planted Tanks

    3. Black Lava – A Great Budget Aquascaping Stone

    Budget Option


    Black Lava Rock

    Budget Option

    Great choice for budgets. Won’t alter your chemistry and provides housing for beneficial bacteria


    Click For Best Price

    Quality lava rock is hard to find online. It’s pretty common to see listings of lava rock being used as biomedia or fireplaces. This makes sense given they are great for housing beneficial bacteria and are great stones for fire places. This does limit what you can buy on online though.

    When it comes to aquarium lava rock these Black Lava Rocks by BucePlant are exactly what we are looking for. These are large rocks with unique shapes unlike what you will find at most pet stores. If you are looking to quality lava rock, check out their store and selection.

    Pros

    • Black color works well with aquascapers
    • Price
    • Lava Rock has multiple beneficial properties

    Cons

    • Not as pretty as the major aquascaper rocks

    Best For – Freshwater Tanks

    4. Traditional Seiryu – The Aquascaper’s Choice


    Traditional Seiryu Stone

    A go to classic. Highly recommended for Iwagumi aquascapes


    Buy On Buce Plant


    Buy On Glass Aqua

    If you want a pro quality aquascaping rock, but the Ohko is out of your budget, I would highly recommend Buce Seiryu Rock.  Seiryu is the godfather of all aquascaping rocks. These are hand picked stones from Buce. With their excellent customer service and high quality reviews, you can’t go wrong with them!

    You will not be disappointed in going with them! Great details and texture comes with these rocks.

    Pros

    • Great rock specimens
    • Great reviews and testimonials
    • Hand picked stones

    Cons

    • Price

    Best For – Planted Tanks 

    5. BucePlant WYSIWYG Stones – For the Pro Aquascapers

    Premium Pick


    Buceplant WYSIWYG Stones

    The Finest Available Online

    Buceplant offers the premium stones online. Showpiece What You See Is What You Got (WYSIWYG) stones. Get your centerpiece today!


    Click For Best Price

    We start off this list with high end aquarium rocks. These rocks offered by BucePlant are what we call in the industry What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) rocks. This seller lists individual rocks or sets of rocks for you to purchase and you get the exact rocks in the picture. This is the best way to get large aquarium rocks for aquascapes if you are looking to do big projects.

    In my mind, WYSIWYG vendors are the sellers to go to if you are looking for a large display stone. These are excellent for planted tanks and highly recommended if they are within your budget.

    Pros

    • You get exactly what you see in the photo (WYSIWYG)
    • Large aquarium rocks available
    • High quality rocks

    Cons

    • Limited quantities
    • Expensive

    Best For – Planted Tanks

    6. Lifegard Aquatics Redwood Petrified Stone – Made For You Aquascape Sets!

    Great For Beginners


    Lifegard Aquatics Redwood Petrified Stone

    A complete set done for you. This is a great choice for someone completely new to aquascaping


    Buy On Amazon


    Buy On Chewy

    Are you looking for a done for you aquascape set? If so, the Lifegard Aquatics Petrified Wood Sets are right up your ally. These aquarium rocks are sold in packages for specific tank sizes. All you do is order the place for your aquarium and you are good to go. No need to guess or pick rocks. These sets use pertified wood instead of stone. As a result, the look is very unique for your aquascape.

    Lifegard also offers another variant called the Klondike Petrified Stone set if you are looking for a different shade or color. I love these sets for first time aquascapers. It is wood versus stone, which may bother a purist, but not a problem for a newcomer. The price is pretty reasonable as well!

    Pros

    • Will not alter pH or hardness
    • Done for you sets
    • Unique look

    Cons

    • It’s wood versus stone – some purists may not be fans

    Best For – Planted Tanks 

    7. Penn-Plax Deco-Replicas Ornament Series – Great for Territorial Fish


    Penn-Plax Deco Rock

    Simple and designed for Cichlids. These rock provide shelter for your territorial fish


    Buy On Amazon

    Penn-Plax Deco-Replicas Ornament Series are resin ornaments that resemble natural granite. They are great for territorial fish like cichlids. Each aquarium rock acts like an individual home or condo for your fish. Because they are resin based, so they do not affect your water chemistry and are very easy to clean due their smooth outer surface. They are also very easy to stack and create a community of homes. 

    The thing I do not like with these rocks is they are rough on the inside. This is due to their resin makeup. The resin has been smoothed out on the outside but not on the inside. This leads to rough and sharp edges inside the structure. This does not make them safe for delicate species like Betta Fish. You can make them smooth with a file, but given their price point it’s probably better to look at another product if you have delicate fish.

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Easy to clean
    • Great for territorial fish

    Cons

    • Rough on the inside – not safe for delicate fish like Bettas

    Best For – Cichlids 

    8. Small World Slate & Stone – Slate for a Great Price


    Small World Slate & Stone Rock

    Great price and selection. Small world offers an affordable solution for quality aquarium slate


    Buy On Amazon

    These Slate Aquarium Rocks by Small World are an amazing deal. The product pictured above is the 5-7 inch stone sets. These are high-quality slate pieces sourced from the USA. Small World Slate and Stone is a small family-run business and its customer service is top-notch.

    Slate will not alter your pH or hardness. They are great for Aquascaping and for creating caves and structures. They are also great for reptiles since they hold heat well. Slate is one of the most popular stones for garden and pond hardscaping.

    Slate is easy to break or crack. Be very careful with handling the stones as they can chip easily.

    Pros

    • Good price
    • Will not alter pH or hardness
    • Soured from the USA and small business owned

    Cons

    • Easy to chip or break

    Best For – Freshwater Tanks 

    9. Texas Holey – Perfect for African Cichlids

    Great For African Cichlids


    Texas Holey Rock Natural Limestone

    With its ability to raise pH and hardness, this rock is an excellent choice for African Cichlids


    Buy On Amazon

    If you own African Cichlids, these limestone rocks are perfect for them. Texas Holey Rock has several benefits for African Cichlids. Being made of calcium carbonate, these rocks buffer pH and hardness, which solves your aquarium water chemistry issues with Africans. The holes are great for shelter and curb aggressively in your freshwater tank.

    These rocks are sourced locally in Austin, Texas. The team selects these rocks to take care to find quality specimens for aquarium usage. The Company was built by a Cichlid tank owner who understands the need for quality hardscaping.

    Given their limestone makeup, these rocks are only appropriate for fish that need a higher pH or hard water. The white appearance is also not for everyone. You can mitigate the white look by using low-light aquarium plants like Java Fern, and Java Moss which easily attach to these rocks. 

    Pros

    • Buffers pH and hardness for African Cichlids
    • Hand picked selection
    • Holes are great for shelter

    Cons

    • White appearance is not for everyone
    • Only for fish that need hard water and higher pH

    Best For – African Cichlids 

    WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

    Traditional Seiryu Stone is popular for good reason, but it does raise pH and hardness gradually. That is not a problem in every tank, but in a planted setup targeting soft, slightly acidic water it will work against you. If you love the look of Seiryu but need chemistry-neutral rock, Black Mountain Seiryu Stone gives you a nearly identical aesthetic without the pH consequences. It is a direct swap that most people overlook.

    Our Expert Pick

    I listed a number of aquarium rock selections. Which one is best for you? I’m going to split these in several categories and explain.

    FAQS

    Which Are Safe For Fresh Tanks?

    The safest rocks are ones you can purchase at a pet store, local fish store, or online. That being said, the best rocks to use are Ohko dragon stone, Seiryu Stone, and Lava Rock. You can also use rocks like slate for building levels and Holey Rock for setups that require hard water or higher pH.

    Can You Put Any Kind In A Fish Tank?

    No. You cannot just put any rock in a fish tank. Some rocks will alter the chemistry of the water like its pH or hardness, which can have negative effects on your fish and plants. Rocks collected from outside or rivers may also contain organic material, which may die off and cause ammonia spikes. It’s best to purchase your rocks from a reputable pet store whether in person or online.

    Can Live Stones Be Used In Fresh Tanks?

    No. Live rock is rock that is either pulled from the oceans or grown aquaculturally to be used in saltwater tanks. They contain saltwater bacteria and organisms, which would die off if placed in a freshwater tank.

    Which Ones Raise the pH in the Tank?

    Rocks that are made of calcium carbonate like limestone will raise the pH in an aquarium. These rocks are ideal for fish that prefer higher pH and hard water like African Cichlids.

    Closing Thoughts

    The right rock makes or breaks a freshwater aquarium. Get the chemistry match wrong and you are fighting your water parameters for the life of that tank. Get it right, and the rock becomes a natural anchor point that the whole layout builds around.

    For planted tanks, Ohko Dragon Stone is my top pick. It does not touch your pH or hardness, and the shapes are genuinely impressive. For African cichlid setups, Texas Holey Rock handles the water chemistry work and provides the cave structure those fish need. If budget is the priority, Black Lava Rock from BucePlant is chemistry-safe, functional, and far better looking than fireplace lava rock from a hardware store.

    If you want to explore where to source quality aquascaping rock alongside live plants and hardscape, Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish are both reputable options worth checking out for your overall tank build.


    🌿 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

    References

  • 11 Best Rimless Aquariums – The Clean Look of Modern Fishkeeping

    11 Best Rimless Aquariums – The Clean Look of Modern Fishkeeping

    Rimless aquariums are something I genuinely love. The clean, borderless look transforms a fish tank into living art, and it’s the aesthetic I gravitate toward for serious aquascaping builds. The difference between a rimless and a standard braced tank is immediately obvious: you get an unobstructed view from every angle, which makes a dramatic difference in how planted tanks and reef setups look and feel.

    But rimless tanks are not for everyone. Splash, evaporation, structural requirements, and the premium price of quality glass are all real considerations that most buyers skip over. Get this decision right and you’ll have a tank you’re proud of for years. Get it wrong and you’ll spend money fixing a mistake.

    What People Get Wrong About Rimless Aquariums

    The biggest misconception is that a rimless tank is just a standard tank without the plastic frame. It’s not. Rimless tanks use the direct injection silicone method, where the silicone is pressed into the joint and the glass is squeezed together under pressure. This method requires precision. Done correctly, you get a clean edge with no silicone overflow. Done poorly, you get a tank that may look fine at first but develops leaks under sustained water pressure.

    The second misconception: any rimless tank works on any stand. It doesn’t. A rimless tank requires full bottom support across the entire footprint. Place one on a standard budget aquarium stand (the particle board stands with a center support beam and hollow sides) and the tank bottom will crack from the unsupported water weight. This is a critical safety issue, not a style preference.

    Third: buyers assume rimless means “maintenance-free.” The open top design increases evaporation significantly, especially in saltwater systems. For a reef tank, you need a reliable auto top-off system or you’re topping off daily. In a planted freshwater tank, evaporation can drop your water level noticeably between maintenance days.

    The Biggest Mistake Rimless Tank Buyers Make

    Buying the cheapest rimless tank available. Silicone joint quality is everything on a rimless build. I’ve seen low-cost generic rimless tanks arrive with visible gaps in the joint work, uneven silicone application, and glass thickness below what’s appropriate for the tank’s volume. A 20-gallon rimless tank holds a lot of water weight. The silicone joints are the only thing holding it together. This is not the place to save $50.

    EXPERT TAKE | MARK VALDERRAMA

    After working with rimless tanks of various sizes and brands for years, here’s what I know for certain: UNS makes the best pure rimless tank for planted freshwater setups. Full stop. The German engineering, the 45-degree mitered edges, the Diamant glass clarity, nothing else touches it for an aquascaping build. For reef tanks, Waterbox has outpaced Red Sea with their plumbing design and sump quality. Red Sea created the ready-to-run reef tank category, but Waterbox refined it. If you’re new to rimless tanks and want to start without drilling or building a sump, the Fluval EVO and the JBJ Flat Panel are both solid entry points. Just understand their limitations before you buy.

    What to Look for When Buying a Rimless Aquarium

    Know your goals before you shop. A rimless tank for planted freshwater is a completely different purchase than a rimless reef-ready system. Here’s what I evaluate:

    • Quality: Glass thickness, silicone joint consistency, and low iron glass clarity
    • Features and Accessories: What’s included (filtration, lighting, stand) and what the brand’s ecosystem offers for upgrades
    • Brand Track Record: Service support, shipping reliability, warranty
    • Price vs. Long-term Value: Not just upfront cost, but the cost of mistakes

    WHY THIS RANKING

    These tanks are ranked on glass quality and construction method, brand reliability (packaging, shipping, warranty), ecosystem depth (accessories, furniture, upgrade options), and suitability for their stated application. Price is factored in at the category level: the best planted tank choice is different from the best reef-ready choice, and each is ranked within its context.

    The Candidates

    In a hurry? For a freshwater rimless aquarium I recommend UNS Systems. For a saltwater rimless aquarium I recommend Waterbox.

    Picture Name Best For Link
    Editor’s Choice!

    UNS Ultra Clear Tanks

    UNS Ultra Clear Tanks
    • Planted Tanks
    Click For Best Price
    Best Reef Value

    Waterbox Aquariums

    Waterbox Aquariums
    • Reef Tanks
    Click For Best Price

    The 11 Best Rimless Aquariums (2026 Reviews)

    1. UNS Ultra Clear Tanks

    Editor’s Choice!
    UNS Ultra Clear Tanks

    Editor’s Choice!

    World-class rimless aquarium with German engineering and 45-degree mitered edges. The top choice for serious aquascapers.

    Click For Best Price

    If I’m evaluating this from a pure rimless tank standpoint, Ultum Nature Systems is in a category of their own. German engineering, 45-degree precision mitered edges, and 91% Diamant glass with true low iron clarity. When you put a UNS tank next to any other rimless tank at the same size, the difference in glass clarity is visible immediately. This is what low iron glass looks like when done correctly.

    UNS ships their larger tanks in crates, not just boxes. I’ve seen enough cracked aquariums arrive from careless shipping to appreciate this. The furniture options are high-end professional cabinets built to fit flush with the tank’s footprint. No hunting for a stand that “almost fits.” Everything is designed as a system.

    Two limitations worth knowing: UNS focuses on freshwater, so they don’t offer reef-ready drilling. And they’re not cheap. But for an aquascaping build where the visual quality of the glass matters, nothing on this list touches them. See the full UNS Aquarium Review.

    • Pros: Best glass clarity available, mitered edges, excellent furniture system, professional crate shipping
    • Cons: Freshwater only (no reef-ready option), premium price
    • Best For: Planted tanks, aquascaping

    2. Waterbox Aquariums

    Best Reef Value
    Waterbox Aquariums

    Best Reef Value

    The best plumbing, the best sump, and now freshwater options. The current benchmark in reef-ready rimless tanks.

    Click For Best Price

    Waterbox delivers the best value in reef-ready rimless tanks. Their Platinum Reef Plumbing system uses a true BeanAnimal overflow (the reef standard), colored PVC for easy identification, and unions throughout for maintenance access. Their rimless glass sumps are multi-stage designs. This is the most complete plumbing system you’ll find in a ready-to-run reef tank.

    Waterbox has also expanded into freshwater with their Clear models, though availability has been limited at launch. For reef applications, they’ve clearly separated themselves from the competition. I’ve felt for years that Waterbox had better designs than Red Sea; their V3 updates haven’t changed that assessment. See the full Waterbox Aquariums review.

    • Pros: Best plumbing system available, BeanAnimal overflow, excellent rimless glass sump, now available in freshwater versions
    • Cons: Premium price, freshwater Clear models have limited availability
    • Best For: Reef tanks

    3. Landen Rimless Aquariums

    Budget Option
    Landen Rimless Aquariums

    Budget Option

    Expertly crafted low iron glass rimless tank available in multiple sizes. Solid budget choice for planted builds.

    Buy On Amazon

    The Landen rimless aquarium is the budget option for freshwater planted builds. Low iron glass, available in multiple sizes, and known for packaging that protects the tank during shipping. It’s a bare-bones tank without furniture or filtration, which makes it ideal for aquascapers who already have their equipment preferences and just need quality glass. At a lower price than UNS, it’s the entry point for serious planted tank setups.

    • Pros: Expert craftsmanship, multiple sizes, protective packaging
    • Cons: No equipment or furniture included, not available locally
    • Best For: Planted tanks

    4. Current USA Serene 65

    Current USA Serene 65

    The first complete freshwater rimless system. Tank, cabinet, filter, heater, and optional aquascape bundles from professional designers.

    Click For Best Price
    Buy On SWA

    The Current USA Serene is the first serious all-in-one freshwater rimless system I’ve seen that actually gets the package right. The 48x18x18 inch low iron glass tank comes with a frosted background pre-installed (the white background aquascapers love), an included backlight, OASE canister filter, Hydor inline heater, and a solid wood reclaimed wood finish cabinet. Current also offers professional aquascape bundles designed to be installed directly in the tank.

    There’s a gap in the market for a planted-tank-optimized variant (better lighting, CO2 compatibility), and this tank is on the expensive side. But for someone who wants a turnkey freshwater rimless setup, nothing on this list offers as complete a package. See the video for the cabinet quality:

    https://player.vimeo.com/video/378915106?h=de8dec6db2
    • Pros: Complete system, backlight included, professional aquascape bundle options, solid wood cabinet
    • Cons: Expensive, no planted-tank specific variant yet
    • Best For: Freshwater aquascaping, turnkey setups

    5. Fluval Sea Evo

    Fluval Sea Evo XIII

    The official tank of Biota’s sustainable reef kits. Great all-in-one starter for nano reef beginners.

    Buy On Amazon
    Click For Best Price

    The Fluval Sea Evo is the official tank of Biota’s sustainable reef kits, which tells you something about its position in the market. It’s a beginner-friendly nano reef rimless tank that comes complete: LED lighting integrated into the cover, adequate filtration chambers, and a return pump strong enough for low-light corals and small reef fish. The peninsula-style design gives you viewing from three sides.

    Know its limits: this is a low-light coral tank. Don’t try to push SPS corals in it. The integrated cover traps heat, which is a real concern in warm climates without good AC coverage. Fitting a nano protein skimmer in the chambers requires some creativity. But for a first reef tank where you want something that looks clean and works out of the box, this is a strong entry point.

    • Pros: Complete package, peninsula viewing, beginner-friendly, good price
    • Cons: Heat management issues in warm climates, light not powerful enough for demanding corals, limited skimmer space
    • Best For: Nano reef tanks

    6. JBJ Rimless Flat Panel

    JBJ Rimless Flat Panel

    65 gallons in ideal 36×24 dimensions. My top recommendation for a first saltwater reef setup with cabinet included.

    Click For Best Price

    The JBJ Rimless Flat Panel is my recommendation for a first saltwater reef aquarium. The 36×24 inch footprint is the sweet spot for reef aquascaping: enough length for territorial fish, enough depth for interesting rockwork and coral placement, and a width that works with standard lighting footprints. At 65 gallons, you have room to build a real reef without the complexity of a large sump system.

    The AIO design makes it accessible for beginners: large enough bays to house an auto top-off and even a small protein skimmer. The cabinet is included, which makes the price look high but is actually reasonable when compared to pricing a tank, stand, and plumbing separately. The cabinet quality isn’t premium, but it functions.

    • Pros: Ideal dimensions, cabinet included, great volume for first reef, accessible bays
    • Cons: Cabinet construction is average quality, still expensive for some budgets
    • Best For: First saltwater reef setups

    7. Innovative Marine Nuvo Lagoon

    Innovative Marine Nuvo Lagoon

    The Nuvo Lagoon has excellent filtration chambers, a DC return pump, and a full ecosystem of accessories from IM.

    Click For Best Price

    Innovative Marine’s Lagoon is a well-engineered nano reef AIO. The filtration chamber is excellent with media chamber options, a DC return pump with dual outlets for flow tuning, and mesh screen lids standard. IM has a full ecosystem of compatible accessories (skimmers, media reactors, wavemakers) sized specifically for Nuvo tanks, which means equipment fit is never a guessing game.

    The one complaint: the tank height is only 12 inches. That limits your aquascape depth and coral height options. A 16-inch height would make this tank significantly better as a display system. At current pricing, it’s on the high end, but the IM brand quality and accessory ecosystem justify it for dedicated nano reef keepers.

    • Pros: DC return pump, excellent filtration chamber, full IM accessory ecosystem, mesh screen lids
    • Cons: 12-inch height limits aquascape depth, expensive
    • Best For: Nano reef tanks

    8. Innovative Marine NUVO 40 EXT

    Innovative Marine NUVO 40 EXT

    Built-in external overflow for a sump, no drilling required. The best solution for a sumped tank without the DIY headache.

    Click For Best Price

    The NUVO 40 EXT solves a real problem: you want a sump-connected reef tank but don’t want to drill glass. The EXT design uses a built-in external overflow that connects to the back of the tank without taking up interior display space. No drilling, no external overflow boxes with their associated leak risks. The overflow connects to a sump below.

    The tradeoff is a Durso overflow rather than a full BeanAnimal. A Durso is simpler but not as quiet or reliable under full flow conditions. Still, for a beginner who wants a sumped reef without the complexity of drilling or wrestling with hang-on overflow boxes, this is the best available solution.

    • Pros: Built-in overflow without drilling, clean interior for aquascaping, no hang-on overflow leak risks
    • Cons: Durso vs BeanAnimal design, more expensive than DIY drilled setups
    • Best For: Reef tanks with sump

    9. Lifegard Aquatics Crystal Aquarium

    Lifegard Aquatics Crystal Aquarium

    Ultra low iron glass AIO with a strong return pump. Best price for a rimless AIO on this list.

    Buy On Amazon

    The Lifegard Crystal offers a hard-to-beat price for an ultra low iron glass AIO rimless tank. The included return pump is stronger than most entry-level AIO tanks, though you’ll likely need to dial it down for planted setups. The main weakness is the included biological media: bio balls are an outdated choice in 2026. Plan to replace them with proper bio media. But for the price, the glass quality and pump strength make this a legitimate contender.

    • Pros: Excellent price, ultra low iron glass, strong return pump, multiple sizes
    • Cons: Bio balls included (plan to upgrade media), limited multi-stage chamber options
    • Best For: All tank types, budget-conscious buyers

    10. Red Sea Reefer

    Red Sea Reefer

    The original ready-to-run reef tank. V3 brings a better sump and colored PVC. Still the most widely used reef-ready rimless system.

    Click For Best Price

    The Red Sea Reefer created the modern ready-to-run reef tank category. Before the Reefer, you built your own system from scratch. Red Sea changed that. The V3 refresh improves the sump design (now adjustable and using colored PVC), and they’ve kept the BeanAnimal overflow that made the original so reliable. The Reefer community is enormous, which means advice, modifications, and upgrades are easy to find.

    My honest assessment: Waterbox now edges out Red Sea on overall system quality and plumbing design. But Red Sea’s brand strength, community, and long track record give it a real advantage for buyers who want the support network that comes with the most widely adopted reef system on the market. Read the full Red Sea Reefer Review.

    • Pros: Massive community support, BeanAnimal overflow, easy assembly, V3 sump improvements
    • Cons: Waterbox now offers better plumbing design, ATO system uses outdated float valve
    • Best For: Reef tanks (buyers who value community support)

    11. SCA 66 Gallon Rimless Cube

    SCA 66 Gallon Rimless Cube Aquarium

    STARFIRE glass, quality Durso overflows, available as a complete package. The best value for a reef-ready cube system.

    Buy On Amazon

    The SCA 66 gallon rimless cube is STARFIRE low iron glass with 24 inches of depth and width. For reef aquascaping, 24 inches of working depth is genuinely ideal. SC Aquariums builds quality Durso overflows and offers complete packages with sump and protein skimmer included. I’ve known many long-term reefers who built incredible display tanks around SCA systems and still swear by them. The price-to-quality ratio for a reef-ready cube is hard to match.

    SCA Aquarium 66 Gallon Package Review (Buy On Amazon)
    • Pros: STARFIRE glass, 24-inch depth and width, complete packages available, great reef-ready value
    • Cons: PnP stand is lower quality, Durso overflow vs BeanAnimal
    • Best For: Reef tanks

    BUY OR SKIP?

    Buy a rimless aquarium if: Aesthetics are important to you and you’re planning a serious planted tank or reef build, you want open-top gas exchange, you’re building a display tank where the visual presentation matters, or you’re keeping corals and want to eliminate salt creep on frame bracing. Skip if: You’re new to the hobby and haven’t kept a standard tank yet (learn maintenance habits first), you have small children or pets who may interact with an open-top tank, or your setup location isn’t on a fully supportive flat surface.

    MARK’S TOP PICK

    For freshwater planted tanks: UNS Ultra Clear Tanks. Nothing else competes on glass quality for aquascaping. For saltwater reef tanks: Waterbox Aquariums. The best plumbing system and sump design in a ready-to-run reef package. If you’re choosing between Waterbox and Red Sea: choose Waterbox for build quality, choose Red Sea if you want the largest community and most accessible advice network.

    WHAT MOST PEOPLE MISS

    The Current USA Serene gets overlooked because it’s marketed primarily as a freshwater system, and most premium rimless tank discussions focus on reef applications. But the Serene is the only turnkey freshwater rimless package on this list that includes a backlight, a professional cabinet, an inline heater, and a canister filter, plus optional professional aquascape bundles. For a freshwater hobbyist who wants the clean rimless look without building the system from scratch, there’s nothing comparable. It’s genuinely underrated in its category.

    Expert Picks by Category

    Best Rimless Aquarium for Planted Tanks: UNS Aquariums

    Best Rimless Aquarium for Reef Tanks: Waterbox Aquariums

    Best Rimless Aquarium for Nano Reef Tanks: Fluval Sea Evo

    Best Budget Rimless: SCA 66 Gallon

    What Is a Rimless Aquarium?

    A rimless aquarium is a fish tank built without plastic bracing. Standard aquariums are siliconed together and then reinforced with plastic frames at the top and bottom. Rimless tanks use the direct injection method instead: silicone is pressed directly into the joint and the glass is compressed together under precision pressure. The result is a clean edge with no silicone overflow and no plastic border interrupting your view.

    Traditional vs. Low Iron Glass

    Most rimless tanks are built from low iron glass, sold under various names (Starfire, Ultra Clear, Diamant). Low iron glass removes the green tint that standard glass produces. In small tanks the difference is subtle. In a 100-gallon tank, the difference between low iron and standard glass is visually dramatic. For reef and aquascaping applications where you’re viewing the tank from multiple angles, low iron glass is worth the cost premium.

    Low Iron vs Traditional Glass Clarity

    Types of Rimless Aquariums

    Bare Bones

    Bare Bones Rimless Aquariums

    Just the glass tank. No filtration, no overflow, no equipment. These are for planted tank builds and aquascaping, where the hobbyist is sourcing their own canister filter, CO2 system, and lighting. You get a clear background and complete control over your setup. Best paired with a canister filter for invisible external filtration.

    All-In-One

    All In One Rimless Aquariums

    AIO rimless tanks include a filtration chamber built into the back or side of the display. The chamber holds filter media and has a return pump. These are the most common entry point for reef and saltwater hobbyists: easier to set up than a sump system, cleaner than running external hang-on equipment, and more beginner-accessible than drilled systems.

    Reef Ready

    Reef Ready Rimless Aquarium

    Reef-ready tanks are drilled at the bottom with a built-in overflow for sump connection. High-end versions use BeanAnimal overflows (quiet, reliable, redundant). These tanks are designed for serious reef builds with dedicated sump filtration, protein skimmers, refugiums, and full automation. They require more planning but offer the most control over your system.

    Tips and Tricks for Rimless Tank Owners

    Full Bottom Support Is Not Optional

    A rimless aquarium cannot sit on a budget particle board stand with hollow sides and a center support beam. The tank requires full contact support across the entire bottom footprint. Place it on the wrong stand and the unsupported bottom will crack under water weight. Most rimless tanks ship with a self-leveling mat. Use it. If yours didn’t include one, buy one.

    Budget Build Aquarium Stand

    Match Your Lighting to the Look

    A bulky, ugly LED fixture on a rimless tank defeats the purpose. Either mount a slim-profile reef or planted LED on the rim, or hang the fixture from above. The visual impact of a properly lit rimless tank is worth investing in the right light. For saltwater: a quality reef LED. For freshwater: a planted LED that supports your plant spectrum requirements.

    Plan for Evaporation

    Open-top rimless tanks evaporate more than covered tanks, especially in warm environments. For saltwater: an auto top-off system is essentially required. For freshwater: monitor your water level weekly and top off with conditioned tap water or RODI as appropriate for your livestock.

    FAQs

    Are Rimless Aquariums More Fragile Than Standard Tanks?

    A well-built rimless tank is not inherently more fragile than a standard tank when supported correctly. The silicone joint quality is critical. Cheap rimless tanks with poor silicone work are a risk. High-quality rimless tanks from proven brands are structurally sound. The key requirement: full bottom support. No partial support, no hollow-sided stands.

    Do Rimless Aquariums Need a Special Stand?

    Yes. The stand must provide full contact support across the entire tank footprint. Standard budget aquarium stands with center support beams and hollow sides are not appropriate. Purpose-built rimless stands, solid wood furniture, or heavy-duty steel stands with full support platforms are required.

    What Is Low Iron Glass and Do I Need It?

    Low iron glass removes the green tint from standard glass. For small tanks under 20 gallons, the difference is subtle. For tanks 40 gallons and up, it’s visually significant. For serious aquascaping or reef builds where aesthetics matter, low iron glass is worth the cost. For a utility freshwater tank, standard glass is fine.

    UNS vs Waterbox: Which Is Better?

    For different applications. UNS is the better tank for freshwater planted builds: superior glass quality, better aesthetic execution, and purpose-built for aquascaping. Waterbox is the better reef-ready system: superior plumbing, better sump design, and now expanding into freshwater. They’re not really competing for the same buyer.

    Are Rimless Tanks Good for Beginners?

    They can be, but I’d recommend getting experience with a standard tank first. Rimless tanks require proper support, more attention to evaporation, and higher investment in the right equipment to match the aesthetic. If you’re new to the hobby, start with a standard braced tank, get comfortable with maintenance routines, then upgrade to rimless when you know what you want.

    Closing Thoughts

    A rimless aquarium is one of the best investments you can make in how your tank looks and feels as a piece of your home. The clean borderless view, the open top, the clarity of low iron glass: it changes the way you experience the tank every day. But go in with your eyes open on the requirements. Full support, planned evaporation management, and quality glass from a proven brand are non-negotiable.

    For planted freshwater: UNS is the answer. For reef-ready: Waterbox or Red Sea, depending on whether you prioritize system quality or community support. For a first reef at a reasonable price: JBJ Flat Panel or the SCA 66 gallon package.

    Once you have your tank set up, source your livestock from reliable vendors. Flip Aquatics and Dan’s Fish are my go-to recommendations for healthy livestock delivered well.


    Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide, your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • The 7 Best Aquarium Air Pumps [Tested and Reviewed]

    The 7 Best Aquarium Air Pumps [Tested and Reviewed]

    Air pumps are one of those pieces of equipment I’ve tested more times than I can count. from whisper-quiet USB models to heavy-duty units running multiple sponge filters at once. After 25 years in this hobby, I’ve learned that noise, output consistency, and durability vary wildly between brands, and the wrong choice leads to a humming annoyance on your nightstand or a dead pump mid-cycle. In this guide I’m breaking down the models that have actually held up in my experience.

    Are you struggling with finding a quiet aquarium air pump?

    In this blog, we share the best aquarium air pumps, from small sized ones to ones meant for larger setups.

    With over 25 years of experience in the aquarium hobby, I’ve assisted countless clients, hobbyists, and readers like you in finding quality equipment that works. I’ve personally tested these products in real world scenarios to determine the quietest and highest quality air pumps on the market.

    Expert Take

    Mark Valderrama — AquariumStoreDepot

    Most hobbyists think of air pumps as airstone accessories. That’s the wrong mental model. In my experience managing fish stores and running systems for 25+ years, the air pump is the backbone of sponge filter setups, hospital tanks, and emergency backup aeration. Get that right, and everything else falls into place.

    Noise is the number one complaint I hear, and it’s almost always a placement or sizing problem, not a pump defect. A pump working against too much depth backpressure will hum louder than it should. Match the pump output to your actual depth and tank count, and most noise issues disappear.

    Here’s how I frame the decision: single tank, quiet location, moderate depth? The Eheim wins outright. Multiple tanks or a deeper tank where backpressure matters? Step up to the Tetra AP series or a dual-outlet unit. Bedroom tank? Noise floor in decibels matters more than raw output. Don’t size up just because a pump is cheap.

    The Top Picks

    Editor’s Choice

    Eheim Air

    • Quietest pump
    • Name brand
    Best Value

    Fluval Q Series

    • Name brand
    • Well priced
    Budget Option

    Tetra Whisper

    • Cheap
    • Good features

    For those of you in a hurry, let’s get to the top picks right away. First off, if you want the best quality and the quietest out there the Eheim Air is a clear choice. This is the quiet air pump on the market and the Eheim brand is well known for last forever. The best value would be the M series by Fluval. It’s as cheap as lesser brands and still has the Fluval name behind it. It’s also pretty powerful for its size. Lastly, the tetra whisper is the go to for budget air pump. It has good features for the price and very easy to find even in chain pet stores.

    Mark’s #1 Pick

    Eheim Air Pump for most freshwater setups. The reason is simple: it’s the only plug-in pump on this list that stays quiet under real working conditions, not just in a quiet room with no load. Pair it with a quality airstone and it’ll run sponge filters or hospital tanks for years without the diaphragm rattle you get from budget units. If you’re in a bedroom or a quiet living room, there’s no real competition at this price tier.

    The Candidates – A Quick Overview

    There are many types of Air Pumps available today, but what is the best out there? The following air pumps have been reviewed with durability, function, and quiet operation in mind. There were many air pumps that did not make the cut. There were several that we cut from this list because we have field experience with these. The ones that I dropped are too loud, very expensive, or not very reliable. Below are the air pumps I would recommend.

    Picture Name Features Link
    Editor’s Choice

    Eheim Air Pump

    Eheim Air Pump
    • Plug In
    • Quiet
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Best Value

    Fluval Q Series

    Fluval Q Series
    • Plug In
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option

    Tetra Whisper 

    Tetra Whisper 
    • Plug In
    Buy On PetcoBuy On Amazon
    Tetra Whisper AP Series Tetra Whisper AP Series
    • Plug In
    • Large Tanks
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Cobalt Rescue Cobalt Rescue
    • Battery Backup
    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Penn Plax Silent Penn Plax Silent
    • Battery Powered
    Buy On ChewyBuy On Amazon
    Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5 Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5
    • Battery Backup
    Buy On Amazon

    The 7 Best Aquarium Air Pumps Reviewed

    Let’s dive deep and see why these made the list!

    1. Eheim

    Editor’s Choice!


    Eheim Air Pump

    The Quietest Air Pump

    Powerful, quiet, and German engineered. Even comes with an air stone! The best aquarium air pump you can buy today!


    Click For Best Price


    Buy On Amazon

    The Eheim Air Pumps are without a doubt the quietest aquarium air pumps you can buy on the market today. They are powerful, quiet, and well-made. After all, Eheim is well known for producing excellent aquarium equipment for the hobby. The other great thing about this air pump is the diffuser that it comes with is pretty good. This eliminates the guesswork of having to buy an air stone. They also give you a check valve in the box. It is a well-engineered and well-thought-out package.

    It is a plug-in-only air pump. This means if you want an air pump with backup abilities you will need need to shop for another unit. You could also buy a separate battery-powered air pump. The Eheim pump is on the pricey side among the plug-in air pumps on the list.

    Pros

    • The quietest aquarium air pump on the list
    • Eheim brand name
    • Comes with a great diffuser and check valve

    Cons

    • Expense
    • Plug-in option only

    Why It Ranked #1

    • CFM output at depth: The Eheim maintains consistent airflow even at 18+ inches of water depth, where cheaper pumps start to strain and vibrate.
    • Noise floor: Measurably quieter than every other plug-in pump on this list. For bedroom tanks, that difference is not minor.
    • Diaphragm durability: German-engineered diaphragm design. Most no-name pumps fail at the diaphragm within 12 to 18 months. The Eheim goes years.
    • Adjustability: Output dial lets you dial back for small tanks without buying a separate control valve.
    • Airline compatibility: Standard 4mm tubing fit out of the box. No adapter hunting.

    Buy It If / Skip It If

    Buy it if:

    • You’re running multiple tanks off a single pump with a gang valve
    • Your tank is 24 inches deep or deeper (backpressure will kill cheap pumps)
    • The pump is in or near a bedroom where noise actually matters
    • You want a set-it-and-forget-it unit that won’t need replacing in 18 months

    Skip it if:

    • You just need a little surface agitation in a 10-gallon shallow tank (the Tetra Whisper is perfectly fine for that)
    • Budget is the hard constraint and you’re not running sponge filters or hospital tanks
    • You need battery backup capability (this is plug-in only)

    2. Fluval Q Series – Great Bang for the Buck

    Best Value


    Fluval Q Series

    Best Value

    Great value for a stellar brand name. The Fluval air pump delivers quality and value


    Buy On Chewy


    Buy On Amazon

    The Fluval Q Series Air Pumps offer an entry-level price with the brand name we love in Fluval. Fluval, as they have always done, backs up their equipment with a generous 2-year warranty on this air pump model. For a brand name air pump, it has a get price point and should definitely be a consideration over cheaper Chinese-made units out there. It is a powerful unit with dual air outlets.

    Due to the unit’s power, it does give off more noise than I would like. The sound level is more equal to lesser brand names. This is disappointing for a Fluval branded air pump. But given they are designed for larger tank capacities, it may be worth looking at if noise isn’t a concern for you. The price point for a brand name air pump is great.

    Pros

    • Cheap for a brand name air pump
    • Fluval brand name
    • Powerful

    Cons

    • Surprisingly loud given the brand name

    3. Tetra Whisper – Great All-Around Unit

    The Tetra Whisper Air Pump is a staple in our industry.  Tetra and their name brand Whisper have been what they are known for. The air pump is their major item in the Whisper lineup. The Tetra Whisper has a good balance of features. It is very cheap compared to the others on this list and it is quiet. It also doesn’t look that bad in your cabinet or hanging outside of your tank due to its unique shape. I guess you could say there is a bit of a cool feature with its not boxy look.

    It is cheap and gets the job done. If you are looking for value, the Tetra Whisper is for you!

    Pros

    • Cheap
    • Good balance of features

    Cons

    • Not as quiet as the premium brand models

    4. Tetra Whisper AP – For Large Tanks


    Whisper AP Series

    A great air pump option for larger tanks. The AP series is Tetra’s best product among all its offerings


    Buy On Chewy


    Buy On Amazon

    The Tetra AP Series Air Pumps are pumps designed for larger tanks. This is Tetra’s best product in the Aquarium trade. It is super quiet for how powerful it is. It is not as quiet as the Ehiem air pump. But, it is close and operates at much larger aquarium capacities, handling up to 300 gallons in fact. Even with its large operating capacity, it still retails at a great price. To top it all off, Tetra backs this air pump with a limited lifetime guarantee. What isn’t there to like here?

     
    The only grip I have with this air pump is it only comes with a single airline outlet for the AP 150 outlet. That is fixed with a proper Gang Valve.  

    Pros

    • Quiet for a large air pump
    • Value Priced
    • Limited lifetime guarantee

    Cons

    • AP 150 only has one airline hose outlet

    5. Cobalt Rescue – Great Unit With Back-up Capability

    The Cobalt Aquatics Rescue Air Pumps is our first pump on the list with backup capability. It comes with an internal battery that can power the air pump for 24 hours in the event of a power outage. Add to the fact that it can be plugged in, this unit afters a primary air pump with power outage backup. It has a good amount of power output and should suit a medium-sized fish tank.

    Given that it is a unit that offers a battery backup function, it is on the pricier side. It has also been reported as loud compared to some of the more quiet models that we will be looking at later. If noise isn’t that much of a concern for you and you want a power backup option, this unit would be a great pick for you.

    Pros

    • Backup capability with internal that lasts up to 24 hrs
    • Powerful out of the box – will suit most aquariums
    • Not as quiet as other models

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Louder than other models

    6. Penn Plax Silent – A Quality Battery Powered Unit

    The Penn Plex Silient Air B 11 is the perfect battery-powered air pump. It has a good amount of power, being able to handle tanks up to 29 gallons. The unit is powered by 2 D batteries that should give you a life of about 6-8 hours. The auto-on feature is a nice bonus as you can plug this into your outlet and it will monitor if a power outage occurs. If an outage occurs, the battery-powered unit will turn on.

    This is great piece of mind if you go out of town or away from your aquarium and an outage occurs. I feel that every aquarium owner should have one of these units. They will save your livestock one day.
     
    It is more expensive than other battery powered air pumps on the market. Yet, the generic and cheaper alternatives out there are not very reliable. This is a piece of equipment you pull out when your pet’s lives are in danger. I’d rather spend more for something I know that is going to work. Going for a cheap unit that may or may not work when it is most needed can be disastrous. This unit is not built for quiet. In fact, it is the loudest air pump on this list by far. But, that’s not it’s function. It exists to save your pets lives in the event of a power outage. This is an air pump you should buy today as part of your emergency planning.
     

    Pros

    • Battery Powered
    • Good power – works for up to 29 gallons
    • Auto On Feature

    Cons

    • More expensive than other battery powered air pumps
    • Loud

    7. Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5 – The Ultimate In Battery Powered Backup Units


    Deep Blue Professional Hurricane

    The Hurricane is the ultimate in battery backup air pump technology today. Protect your prized pets with its 12 Ah battery designed to run for days


    Buy On Amazon

    The Deep Blue Professional Hurricane Category 5 Air Pump is the ultimate in battery backup aquarium air pumps.

    Armed with a lead acid battery pack, this unit does not mess around with its battery backup capacity. It not only comes with a 4.0 Ah battery out of the box, it will also operate with 12 Ah. It is some great piece of mind to know you can work the unit with these larger batteries if needed. Note that if you use a 12 Ah battery you will not be able to house the battery in the unit. It is a powerful air pump that is designed for mid-size aquarium. With dual airline outlets, this unit can serve as your primary air pump as well as your backup. This has everything you want in a good air pump.
     
    You get what you pay for with this unit. It is the most expensive air pump on the list and its larger size will produce more noise than the Eheim. If you have a mid-size tank and want to protect your investment out of the box, this is the unit to buy.
     

    Pros

    • Battery backup that will run for days not hours!
    • Powerful
    • Dual airline outlets

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Louder than others on the list

    What Cheap No-Name Air Pumps Miss

    I’ve tested a lot of no-name air pumps over the years in store settings. Here’s what they consistently get wrong:

    • Vibration noise: The casing resonates on hard surfaces. You end up hearing the cabinet vibrate more than the pump itself. A neoprene mat helps, but it doesn’t solve the problem.
    • Diaphragm failure: Most cheap pumps use thinner diaphragm material. At 12 to 18 months you start getting reduced output, then failure. The sound changes first: the hum gets rougher before it stops.
    • Inadequate output at depth: A pump rated for a 40-gallon tank assumes a shallow tank. Drop the airstone to 20 inches of depth and that same pump is working at the edge of its capacity, running hotter and louder. Name-brand pumps spec for depth, not just volume.
    • Airline fitting tolerance: Generic fittings slip on standard 4mm tubing. Air leaks mean reduced output and a louder pump working harder to compensate.

    What Are They?

    Aquarium air pumps are a piece of equipment that delivers oxygen to your aquarium. Air pumps are external devices. They need to be placed outside of your aquarium, which means they are not waterproof. The air they generate is delivered through airline tubing. You can use accessories like air stones and bubble decorations.

    Air stones can distribute oxygen while bubble decorations add interest to your aquarium. They work in both freshwater and saltwater tanks. For saltwater, they tend to be used with wood stones in applications such as Protein Skimmers. Since saltwater fish tanks need to have more current than freshwater fish tanks, a wave maker is a better fit for them.

    Aquarium Air Pump

    The mechanics of an aquarium air pump are actually pretty simple (image source). You have a magnet, which is the tan-colored part above that turns on and of. As the magnet turns on and off, the lever on the bottom left of the photo moves up and down. This movement from the level pumps the rubber part in the middle called the diaphragm. The diaphragm is the part that takes in air and pushes it out to the airline tubing.

    Do I Need It?

    The main reason to get an aquarium air pump would be to provide oxygen in the tank. The most common application for an aquarium air pump is with fish that need rich oxygen. Discus (due to higher temperatures) or Goldfish (Due to their size) are two examples. They are also great to use if you want to connect them to a Sponge Filter or Air Pump Powered Protein Skimmers.

    Pumps versus Wavemakers

    I do get this question a lot. Why should I get an aquarium air pump over a wavemaker? Aquarium Wavemakers are great solutions for water movement and aeration. Yet, they are not for every aquarium setup. In freshwater tanks, there are certain setups where an air pump is more appropriate. For example, fish like African Cichlids need current. Other fish like Goldfish and Betta Fish, want calmer waters. With an aquarium air pump, you can have oxygen-rich water without having a current that is too strong for fish.

    Types

    There are three types of air pumps in general. They are:

    • Plug-in
    • Battery Powered
    • Battery Backup

    Plug-In

    This is going to be the more common air pump you come across. They plug into your outlet and run all day. Super simple and for the most part very reliable. They do not have an on and off switch and are meant to run 24-7. You can if you want to control their operation if you have a controllable power outlet.

    Battery Powered

    These air pumps operate off batteries. They are smaller air pumps and come in handy in the event of a power outage. The batteries tend to last a good while – usually around 8 hours. All battery-powered air pumps are unfortunately very loud. It’s simply not their main design to be quiet. They are designed to be used in a pinch. They are not designed to be your primary air pump in your aquarium. I would recommend that you have a battery-powered air pump on hand for emergencies. They will save your fish tank one day.

    Battery Backup

    This air pump is a combination of the two previous types of air pumps. They plug into your outlet and have a bay to place backup batteries in the unit. When the power goes out, the battery backup will kick in to keep your fish tank oxygenated. Lack of oxygen is one of the major reasons for a tank crash during a power outage. A high-end unit will likely save your aquarium one day from a power outage. They are priceless units.

    Accessories – Getting the Essentials

    So we have got through all the best aquarium air pumps available to buy today. Before you go get your air pump, let’s talk about all the essential accessories. You will want to look into these before setting everything up. They are:
    • Airline Tubing
    • Air Check Valve
    • Air Control Valve
    • Airstone/Bubblers
    • Airline Connector
    • Gang Valve

    Airline Tubing

    Air Line Tubing

    These connect your air pump to your air stone, bubble, or sponge filter The tubing transfers the airflow to your fish tank. They are very cheap to obtain and just about any you purchase will be very reliable. I would recommend Penn Plax’s Airline Tubing or Lee’s brand if shopping locally. All you do is measure and cut to length and you are good to go.

    Airline Check Valve

    Check Valves

    An Airline Check Valve is an accessory that will prevent your airline tubes from siphoning water out of your aquarium. This can occur in the event of a power outage or equipment failure. They are a must for any air pump application.

    Control Valve

    Air Pump Control Valve

    An Air Control Valve is an accessory that allows you to have more precise control over your Air Pump’s output. They work by turning the valve to reduce or increase the airflow. For control valves, I prefer the ones made by Fluval.

    Stones and Bubblers

    Airstone Bubblers Aquariums

    An air stone or aquarium bubbler helps better distribute the oxygen into your aquarium. Without either, the airline connected to your air pump will generate big bubbles. These large bubbles can be loud and disruptive to your water line. In a freshwater fish tank, we prefer a smooth distribution of bubbles.

    The finer the better as this provides more rich oxygen into the aquarium. Air stones are the standard that most of us in the hobby are used to and provide fine bubbles. Bubblers are more expensive than air stones and take it a step up producing a fine mist of bubbles. Air stones are cheap and get the job done, but if you want the best, go with a bubbler.

    Airline Connectors

    Air Line Connectors

    Airline Connectors are plastic pieces that allow you to split your airline in two or to connect your airline at 90-degree angles. They come in handy when you have a lot of airlines that you need to work with. Airline tubes can get bent reducing the output of your pump. The connectors will create a good directional change for you preventing the issue.

    Gang Valve

    Gang Valve

    A gang valve is an air pump accessory that will split your airline output into multiple lines. It also has the added benefit of being able to control the airflow of each line. It’s a combination of an air control valve and airline connectors. I would recommend Penn Plax’s Gang Valve if you are looking to get one.

    How to Reduce the Noise From Your Unit

    A common question I get from readers is how do I reduce the noise from my air pump. Of all the features and models I listed on this best of the post, the primary concern with an air pump is noise. The unfortunate truth is that all air pumps make a sound. There are two things we can work on here when it comes to noise:

    • Quality of sound
    • Reducing sound

    The quality or the type of sound that your air pump produces is a major factor. A lower-quality air pump will rattle and bump while the higher-quality brands like Eheims will hum along. An air pump that hum along tends to not annoy people, even if they are louder than the ones that rattle.

    Reducing the sound itself is the next thing we can work on. We can do the following to further reduce the noise produced by our air pump:

    • Raise the depth of our airstones
    • Moving the air pump to a different location
    • Fill any unused airline outlets

    Raise the Depth of Your Stones

    For smaller pumps, they will work harder the deeper your air stones are placed in the tank. You can solve this by moving the air stones up or considering purchasing a larger air pump that can operate at those depths without having to work hard.

    Move It To A Different Location

    Air pump location is a very important factor. If they are leaning on something, they can create more vibrations that can create more noise. Even the surface it sits on could create a problem. If the surface is an issue, you can consider moving it or placing the air pump on a Neoprene Mat.

    If you have an Aquarium Cabinet with doors, placing the air pump inside the cabinet can muffle the noise. Keep in mind that many budget built aquarium cabinets are made of particle board. A particle board and an air pump are a bad combination. Consider a neoprene mat to migrate the noise if you are using such a cabinet. Oak cabinets fare a lot better at noise absorption.

    Fill Any Unused Airline Outlets

    Some of the air pumps we have featured in this post have multiple airline outlets. This is great for having the ability to use multiple airlines out of the box, but can also create a problem if you do not utilize them. Unused airline outlets will be noisy as the air pump will push air to these outlets even if unused. To reduce the noise, one way would be to plug in airline tubing to the unused outlet. It will generate less noise than if the outlet was left open.

    FAQS

    Can A Unit Be Too Strong For A Fish Tank?

    Yes, an air pump can be too strong for a fish tank. If they are oversized, they can disrupt the water surface too much causing stress on your livestock. It’s best to either buy a smaller air pump or split the outlets so they can be spread out to other parts of the tank.

    Should I Turn It Off At Night?

    No. It’s not necessary to turn off your air pump at night. However, you can if you wish to disconnect it if your air pump is not connected to your filtration system, like a sponge filter

    Do Fish Like Stones and Bubblers?

    Yes, but not because they actually like the way it looks. Air stones distribute air more calmly than just your airline and the added oxygen benefits your fish. So in that way, fish do like air stones in their tank.

    Do I Need One If I Have A Filter?

    You typically will not need an air pump if you have a capable filter. However, there are certain fish where added oxygen would benefit them like Discus fish. Air pumps also become more important if a tank is overcrowded because oxygen starts to become scarce.

    Conclusion

    Final Word

    The right air pump is invisible. You never think about it. The wrong one is the hum you fall asleep counting. Buy once, buy right, and pick a pump with a diaphragm designed to last. Your fish don’t care about the brand name. You will, at 2am.

    We went through quiet a lot today. We learned about how air pumps work. What different models are available for purchase. We looked at accessories for our air pump. We then provided a few pro tips to make your pump as quiet as possible.
     
    The fact of the matter is air pumps do generate noise. There is no way around that. But, we want to reduce that noise as much as possible. We want a quality air pump that produces a sound that will not annoy us. An air pump should produce a smooth sound versus a banging or clanging sound. If you have any questions below, please leave them in the comments. Thanks for reading.

    🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Best Aquarium Return Pumps (2026 Reviews 🏅) – AC vs DC Pumps

    Best Aquarium Return Pumps (2026 Reviews 🏅) – AC vs DC Pumps

    Following up our Best Aquarium Wavemakers Review post, it would be natural for me to write about the best aquarium return pumps next. Return pumps are an essential component for many fish tanks. They are used in all-in-one tanks, water changing stations, and in aquariums sumps or refugium sumps. It’s the heart of the aquarium and thus the very piece of equipment in your setup that you do not want to fail. You can argue that next to an Aquarium Heater, a failed return pump can be disastrous not only for your livestock, but to your home in the event of a flood or leak.

    The goal with this post is not to point you to the cheapest aquarium return pumps or the most expensive ones. I’m going to point you to the highest quality and reliable pumps available today on the market. This is a component of your system that you should not skim on. You want an aquarium return pump to last forever, be quiet, and to be relevantly maintenance free.

    What Is An Aquarium Return Pump?

    The first question you may be asking is why do I have to use a return pump versus say a wavemaker or powerhead. The main difference here is that return pumps are designed to pump water uphill and are made to handle head pressure. Wavemakers are meant to pump water within the aquarium and a powerhead is not suited to handle the head pressure that a return pump is design to take. 

    Mark’s Expert Take

    The return pump is the heart of a sump system, and most buyers undersize it because they go by the rated GPH without accounting for head pressure loss. That’s a mistake I saw constantly when I was speccing builds for clients. The rule is simple: size for 5x to 10x your display tank volume in turnover after you account for head height and plumbing losses. A pump rated at 1,500 GPH may only deliver 900 GPH at four feet of head. Run the numbers before you buy. DC pumps are worth the premium for controllability – you can dial them in precisely rather than restricting an oversized AC pump with a gate valve and adding wear. I’ve specced return pumps for dozens of client builds over 25 years, and the Sicce Syncra SDC is the pump I reach for on every premium reef system.

    – Mark Valderrama, AquariumStoreDepot

    AC vs. DC Return Pumps

    Return pump manufacturers have been really pushing DC return pumps a lot recently. It makes a lot of sense given the control features that DC pumps offer. Nearly all DC return pumps are controllable with precision and have feed modes to instantly shut off the water pump when feeding your fish, plants, or corals. Some return pump come with smart phone apps that makes monitoring and setup a breeze. They are also a lot more energy efficient.

    However, they come with some big advantages. Reliability is the number one concern I would have with a return pump. You see, a large number of DC return pumps are made in China and the same manufacturer often makes several re-branded pumps (e.g. – Jabeos). Sometimes the quality control simply isn’t there. Other times, the warranties are very short because the manufacturers are well aware of the issues – especially if they operate in saltwater aquariums. A DC controller with have 3 failure points that you will need to deal with:

    • The controller
    • The power supply
    • The motor

    The motor will be the most reliable part of your DC return pump and the controller will be the least reliable. Often times when I see a DC return pump failure, it will usually be the controller.

    AC pumps are a tried and true in this industry. The benchmark of this engineering comes from Italy. Italian engineers had developed the Askoll Motor Block.

    Askroll Motor Block

    Askolls motor blocks are known for their extreme reliability in the aquarium trade with many motor blocks easily lasting over 10 years. The manufactures will also back up their models with long-term warranties, typically at least 3 years or more! The motor block is the only failure point to be concerned with on an AC aquarium return pump. As you can see, they are very worry free!

    AC pumps also come with some big disadvantages over DC pumps. Several are not adjustable aside from the flow rate reducer, which means the pump will always run at full power and the decreased flow rate results in head pressure (e.g. – more wear and tear). Nearly all will not have a feed feature and the energy consumption is a lot more. Several AC pumps are also loud, which is a big consideration if you are working with a setup in a study or bedroom.

    Internal Versus External

    An internal return pump can only be run submerged in water.

    Panworld Pumps

    An external return pump is made to operate solely outside of the water. They can handle pushing water over long distances due to their designs. Nearly any return meant to work externally only is going to be extremely reliable. Not having the pump inside the water, especially not in saltwater increases the reliability of a return pump immensely. Many of these pumps will operate for years without maintenance. They will also offer the higher flow rate. They are commercial sized external water pumps that can handle flow rates for large displays, ponds, and fish stores.

    The main drawbacks with external return pumps are that they are large, loud, and expensive. An external return pump is best operated for people who have basement sumps or fish rooms where water needs to travel long distances. 

    What Cheap AC Return Pumps Miss

    Budget AC pumps look attractive on paper – lower upfront cost, simple operation – but there are real tradeoffs that matter over time:

    • No flow control – Most cheap AC pumps run at full power always. Restricting flow with a gate valve increases back pressure and wears the impeller faster than running a properly sized pump at partial capacity.
    • Heat transfer into the water column – Submersible AC pumps with lower efficiency ratings dump more heat into the water. On a reef tank, this fights your chiller and adds to operating costs.
    • Failure rate – Generic AC pumps often use cheaper Chinese motor components that don’t match the longevity of Askoll or Eheim-based designs. A $40 savings over a Sicce becomes a false economy if the pump fails in year two.
    • No soft-start protection – Quality DC pumps and premium AC designs ramp up gently on startup. Generic pumps slam to full power, which stresses impellers and seals from the first power cycle.

    Our Criteria

    Here is exactly what we looked at when rating these pumps:

    • Warranty – A quality brand is backed with a long warranty. 1 year or less on the warranty is suspect in our mind
    • Gallons Per Hour (GPH) – The GPH output of these pumps are very important and even more so if they operate will under longer distances
    • Noise – A funny thing about DC pumps is they can be noiser than AC pumps because of the DC “whine”
    • Price – While great pumps can be expensive, they aren’t for everyone. I want to find good pumps for every budget.

    Why #1 Ranked: What Actually Separates the Top Return Pumps

    • Actual flow at real head height – Rated GPH means nothing. A pump’s curve at 3, 4, and 5 feet of head is the only number that matters for your build. The Sicce SDC publishes this data clearly.
    • DC vs. AC – DC wins for reef tanks where controllability lets you dial in flow without valve restriction. AC wins for reliability-first freshwater sumps where you don’t need fine-tuned control.
    • Noise – DC pumps can produce an electronic whine that AC Askoll-motor pumps don’t. The Jabeo DCP Sine Wave addresses this better than most budget DC options.
    • Heat output into water – Submersible return pumps transfer heat into the water column. This is a real concern in reef tanks where temperature stability matters. External pumps eliminate this problem entirely.
    • Warranty and reliability record – A 1-year warranty on a pump that’s supposed to be the heart of your system is a red flag. Sicce’s 5-year warranty tells you exactly what they think of their own product’s longevity.

    Top of List

    Below is the list of recommended aquarium return pumps. They range between AC & DC pumps and external and submersible. All will have uses in your aquarium. 

    In a hurry? I recommend Sicce Syncra SDC Pumps!

    Mark’s #1 Pick

    Sicce Syncra SDC

    The Sicce SDC closes the argument between DC control and AC reliability. It’s built in Italy, backed by a 5-year warranty, and I’ve put it in multiple premium reef builds without a single failure. Every other DC pump I’ve used or recommended over the years came with a reliability asterisk. This one doesn’t.

    Picture Name Power Type Link
    Editor’s Choice!

    Sicce Syncra SDC

    Sicce Syncra SDC

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Best Value

    Sicce Syncra Aquarium Pump

    Sicce Syncra Aquarium Pump

    AC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Budget Option

    Jabeo DCP Sine Wave Return Pump

    Jabeo DCP Sine Wave Return Pump

    DC

    Buy On Amazon
    Current USA EFlux Return Pump Current USA EFlux Return Pump

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Fluval SP  Fluval SP 

    AC

    Buy On Amazon
    Ecotech Vectra Ecotech Vectra

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Eheim Universal Pump Eheim Universal Pump

    AC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Eheim CompactON  Eheim CompactON 

    AC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Iwaki Water Pumps Iwaki Water Pumps

    AC

    Buy On Amazon
    Innovative Marine Mighty Jet Innovative Marine Mighty Jet

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    Panworld External Pump Panworld External Pump

    AC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon
    ReeFlo Dart Pumps ReeFlo Dart Pumps

    AC

    Buy On Amazon
    Reef Octopus VarioS Reef Octopus VarioS

    DC

    Click For Best PriceBuy On Amazon

    The Top Units (2023 Reviews)

    1. Sicce Syndra SDC – Finally a DC Unit with Sicce Reliability!

    Editor’s Choice


    Syncra SDC

    Editor’s Choice

    The Syncra is a perfect combination of DC control with AC reliability. Backed by a 5 year warranty and the legendary Sicce brand name


    Click For Best Price


    Buy On Amazon

    I have gotten comments from readers and folks I know that I am an anti DC pump hobbyist. There is one DC return pump that completely closes the door on the anti DC pump view I have. It is the Sicce Syncra SDC return pump. Without a doubt, this is the best DC pump you can purchase hands down on the market. Nothing comes close to it. It is a version of the legendary Syncra AC pumps now in DC form.

    This is a well engineered DC pump that is built in Italy. Sicce continues to stick with its high quality manufacturing and R&D process that has earned its reputation for long lasting pumps. This is the only DC pump I have seen that is backed by a 5 year warranty. There is only one other that I know that exceeds this warranty – and those pumps are nearly 3 times the price of the SDC! 

    Not only do you go the great reliability of Sicce, but the controller is excellent. It runs of a mobile app. It runs off wifi, so this is a completely mobile app unlike the Current USA bluetooth accessories that require you to have a device nearby.  You can run the app on your phone and it will alert you if the pump goes offline. For a piece of equipment as critical as a return pump, that is big time piece of mind.It has the same closed pump feature that the EcoTech pumps have as well.

    This is the DC pump to buy if you want a DC pump. Unfortunately, it comes with a high price tag. It should last you a lifetime like all Sicce pumps – something that nearly all DC pump manufacturers these days cannot say with confidence. The Sicce Syncra SDC is now my pump of choice for all premium builds.  See Full Review.

    Pros

    • Sicce name and quality – made in Italy not in China!
    • 5 year warranty on a DC Pump!
    • Fully controllable via mobile app

    Cons

    • Expensive 

    2. Sicce Syndra – Quiet & Reliable Unit That Lasts A Lifetime

    The Sicce Syndra aquarium return pump is the first pump I recommend to clients when building an aquarium. Their final selection will vary depending on their budget and their desire for control on their return pump, but the Sicce is also the benchmark I start with. I always start with a Sicce pump because they have the best engineering, best reliability, and best warranties in the industry.  

    I didn’t even mention how quiet they are. They are insanely quiet. Many DC pumps are louder than these in comparison. It’s all due to their 35+ years of Italian engineering and care in manufacturing. The pump is equipped with a synchronous motor and advanced rotor which cuts down on the noise significantly.

    Sicce tops off all these features with a gold standard best in industry 5 year warranty. No maker unless you spending way more in the DC category (looking at you Abyzz) offers a warranty like this. There is absolute confidence from Sicce that this pump will serve you for a lifetime. I have seen many of these pumps in tanks run smoothly for years.

    Sicce’s reliable and engineer are well earned and as a result, these pumps are on the pricey side. However, knowing that the return pump is the heart of an aquarium system I see no problem in spending a little more for a pump that will offer me a lifetime of worry free operation.

     Pros

    • Quiet (virtually dead silent!)
    • Industry best 5 year warranty
    • Can be run internally or externally

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Suctions instead of rubber feet
    • Needs a gate valve for true precision adjustments

    3. Jabeo DCP Sine Wave – Affordable DC Power

    Budget Option


    Jebeo DCP

    Budget Option

    Easily the best Jabeo DC pump ever released. Great budget price and quiet operation


    Buy On Amazon

    The Jabeo DCP Sine Wave return pump is the first Jabeo return pump that I am comfortable putting under a recommended list. Everyone is always asking me if Jabeos are worth buying and in the past I was 100% against them because of reliability issues. This particular model however, has my interest because of the Sine Wave technology that makes them crazy quiet. Sine Wave removes that annoying humming noise so common with your average DC pump.

    It’s frankly annoying to the ear to hear it throughout the day. I know some clients who hate that DC hum so much that they end up going with a Sicce AC pump instead because they can’t stand it! The Sine Wave tech on this pump puts out about 25% less noise then the previous Jabeo generation (the DCS).

    This pump features a controller than can adjust the pump from 30% to 100% power and comes with a feed mode that will shut off the pump for 10 minutes. Perfect for coral feeding or hand feeding shy inhabitants in your tank. This pump is also compatible with Jabeo’s battery backup (the IceCap battery backup will also work) solution giving you hours of operation in the event of a power outage.

    The DCP Sine Wave is also the one variant of Jabeo that you will not see clones for. There are a lot and I mean A LOT of Jabeo clones and even American sellers who rebrand Jabeo pumps like Simplicity, but the Sine Wave tech is exclusive to the Jabeo brand so if you are going to use a Chinese made DC pump that is not a major brand, this is the one to look at.

    Now let’s talk about issues with this pump. In my own personal experience, the controller is the Achilles heal of this unit. It is fairly common to have a unit shipped with a faulty controller and it will generally fail right away. I’m not sure why they fail so much, but make absolutely certain that you purchase this pump from a seller who can ship you a replacement fast and with no added cost if you have to return it (like Amazon). 

    Once you have a working controller, these units last a decent amount of time. They haven’t been out for too long, but I do know of several installs with these going two years now and still working like new. Given the price of these units, that’s pretty good if you are working with a budget.

    Pros

    • Cheap!
    • Sine Wave tech = more silent than many DC Pumps
    • Lots of output options available

    Cons

    • Controller reliability

    4. Current USA EFlux – Affordable DC Power and Reliability


    Current USA eFlux DC Pump

    Use Coupon Code ASD15 At Checkout!

    A budget friendly offering from Current USA. Integrates well with all Current USA products with its unique controller


    Click For Best Price


    Buy On Amazon

    Current USA starts off our list with a very competent Eflux DC Pump offering. This water pump is well made with a controller that can adjust the flow rate from 1% to 100% using a dial. It has the advantage of hooking integrating with the Eflux Wavemakers and Loop LEDs for a complete package. It is a compact for the power it brings and I really like the rubber feet that come with it so you don’t have to worry about placing a silicon mat underneath it.

    Current USA’s customer service has also been in my experience excellent and one of the reasons I go with them for many system components.

    The main thing I don’t like about this DC return pump is the lack of a true feed mode. There isn’t even an option to do a feed mode out of the box. You get a feed mode when it’s linked to the Loop Led manifold or the Bluetooth accessory, but the feed mode is a 30% dial down mode not complete shut off. This makes it disappointing if you want a button for a feed mode, but since I tend to hook systems up with switch boards or a controller it is a non issue for me.

    I would say this is the weakest offering of the Loop trio though, with the EFlux wavemakers being the strongest product offer of theirs. 

    Pros

    • Works with Current USA Loop System
    • Adjustable by dial so it can go from 1% to 100%
    • Current USA customer service

    Cons

    • Does not have a true feed mode
    • Dial can also be a disadvantage

    5. Fluval Sea SP – Askoll Motor + Warranty = Ultimate Reliability


    Fluval Sea SP

    Designed with the reliable Askoll motor, these Italian made AC return pumps are a great pickup


    Buy On Amazon

    The Fluval Sea SP series return pumps are a throw back to the reliable Askoll motor design. Italian engineered and backed by a benchmark 3 year warranty, the Fluval Sea offeres reliable, powerful, and quiet operation. Yes, that is right, these Fluval Sea have been reported to be quieter than old generation Jabeo DC pumps. They can also be run internally or externally. It is a great all around pump.

    My main nitpick with this water pump is there is no flow rate regulator out of the box. In order to tune down this pump, you are required to use a gate valve in your plumbing. While a gate valve is recommended in any sump design, this can be an added expense and time cost for some who is looking to save on design costs. These are all power hungry and large pumps so don’t expect energy savings from them.

    Pros

    • Askoll Motor & Italian engineering
    • Lots of GPH sizes for an AC pump
    • Runs internal or external

    Cons

    • Water pump does not have a flow rate regulator out of the box
    • Large compared to DC pumps
    • High wattage consumption

    6. EcoTech Vectra – High End DC Unit With Smart Phone App Features


    EcoTech Marine Vectra

    The Vectra offers a lot of premium features such as auto calibration and closed mode. It is one of the more advanced pumps available today


    Click For Best Price


    Buy On Amazon

    The EcoTech Vectra is loaded with lots of smart features like auto calibration which will adjust itself automatically to the overflow drain of your tank. It is compatible with the EcoTech battery backup system, which can power the water pump for a couple of days. It can work with the ReefLink app giving you full access to your operations on your computer. 

    My favorite offering is the closed mode. I am a big fan of doing closed loop systems – especially for smaller tanks where you can eliminate a wavemaker and have more room for your corals and fish. The closed loop options offer wavemaking features like gyre and reef crest random modes giving you the random flow rate you need for a reef tank.

    As with all EcoTech products, this is an expensive DC return pump. I’m not too upset about the price though. It’s the warranty that really bugs me. EcoTech only backs this up with a 1 year warranty, which is a big shame for a return pump that is supposed to be the heart of the aquarium.

    Pros

    • Smart features like auto calibrate
    • Compatible with EcoTech Battery Backup System
    • Close Loop Modes 

    Cons

    • Only a 1 year warranty
    • Expensive

    7. Eheim Universal Hobby – An Oldie but Goodie


    Eheim Hobby Pump

    An old, but very reliable design. There are many of these pumps still in service that have run for over 15 years!


    Buy On Amazon


    Click For Best Price

    The Eheim Hobby Pump is an extremely reliable aquarium return pump that has been around for many years in the hobby. I know a number of hobbyists who use this water pump with many still running after over 15 years of usage. The reliability of these pumps are virtually unmatched. They only come in smaller gallon per hour outputs, but for the what they are capable of, they are great additions to a system.

    Unfortunately, as of this post, they are becoming more and more difficult to find as the manufacturer is phasing them out for a more mainstream and cheaper pump. If you can find these pumps for sale, they are worth every penny for their reliability. 

    Pros

    • Eheim name
    • Extremely reliable
    • Works submersed in water or externally

    Cons

    • Difficult to obtain
    • Expensive for an AC pump
    • Not designed for hard PVC installs
    • Needs a gate valve to fully control flow rate

    8. Eheim CompactON – New Generation Units


    Eheim compactON

    This Eheim pump is the successor to the Compact + series. It is a budget friendly version of the Eheim hobby pumps


    Buy On Amazon


    Click For Best Price

    The Eheim CompactON aquarium return pumps are the newest generation of pumps from Eheim. These pumps are the successor of Eheim’s popular Compact+ series pumps. What you get here is a compact fit that fits in tight sumps and all in one aquariums with the reliability of the the Eheim name. The ceramic bearing construction makes for a silent water pump. There is an easy to access adjustment dial near the outlet to adjust the flow rate. It comes with accessories so you can either do a hard or soft plumbing install.

    Like many Eheim products, these pumps are on the pricer side of AC return pumps, but you are getting a more reliable water pump spending more.

    Pros

    • Eheim Name
    • Has accessories for soft and hard plumbing installs
    • Small footprint

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Hard to find

    9. Iwaki External – Japanese Quality with Long-Term Reliability


    Iwaki External Pump

    A japanese made motor and external pump makes these ironclad reliable. Excellent for basement sumps and ponds


    Buy On Amazon

    The Iwaki Magdrive Pumps are the first external aquarium pump on this list. Iwaki is a very well known brand in the aquarium and pond industry due to their reliability and performance. The main difference between these aquariums and internal return pumps is the head pressure they can handle. They can work across longer distances making them perfect for basement sump and fish room installs.

    External pumps come with a number of drawbacks. They are big and loud and can only be installed externally. They are not ideal for below the cabinet installs due to this and really are best for separate room installs. They are expensive, but one of these will last a lifetime and well worth the money if you have a specialized install.

    Pros

    • High quality build and motor
    • Handles a lot of headpressure (great for basement sumps/fishrooms)

    Cons

    • Loud and big
    • Can only be used externally
    • Expensive

    10. MightyJet DC – DC Power for All In One Tanks

    Great For All In One Tanks


    Mighty Jet Pump

    A compact, yet powerful DC return pump. Its small size make them a perfect upgrade for all in one tanks


    Buy On Amazon


    Click For Best Price

    The MightyJet DC Pump by Innovative is the perfect aquarium return pump to upgrade to if you are looking for a DC powered pump in your all in one aquarium. They come in either 326 GPH or 538 GPH sizes, with both models being small enough to fit in the return chamber of your all in one.

    It has many of the features you would expect with a DC pump drawing little power, having a feed mode, and being fully adjustable. The 326 GPH model uses only 15 watts at 100% so in a backup situation it can be dialed down and can operate for a long-term with a UPS or battery backup system.

    Because this is a name brand DC pump, they are expensive given the output. There is also no sound dampening features like silicone or rubber feet like you get with the Current USA and other name brand DC offerings. It is a great water pump that works for all in one tanks and should also be a consideration for those if you running nano reef tanks with sumps.

    Pros

    • Small enough to fit in all in one aquarium chambers
    • Good GPH output given size
    • Fully adjustable

    Cons

    • Expensive compared to similar AC powered pumps
    • No sound dampening feet

    11. Panworld External – The Choice for Basement Sumps


    Pan World Pumps

    Budget priced yet realiable external pumps


    Buy On Amazon


    Click For Best Price

    Panworld External Pumps offer a very reliable return pump for a reason price. I see many basement sumps and fish rooms run these pumps for years. They are pretty common place in the reefing community with their great price point and reliability.

    Panworld’s price point comes from their 26 years of pump manufacturing experience, using Japanese pump technology and having manufacturing based in Taiwan. 

    As with any external pump, they are best for applications where you are moving water to an outside location like a basement or a fishroom. They are too big and bulky to be placed underneath cabinets and they are loud. They are amazing to use in water changing stations and various other external applications. 

    Pros

    • Cheap for an external return pump
    • Sturdy and reliable

    Cons

    • Big and bulky
    • Loud
    • Only works externally

    12. ReeFlo – Lots of Power for External Applications


    ReeFlo Pumps

    An external that is designed to be quiet. They have models that can push over 5,000 gallons per hour!


    Buy On Amazon

    Did I mention that external return pumps are loud? Well, the Reeflo External Return Pumps kick that concern to the curb. Don’t believe me? Just check out this field test video below and hear it yourself:

    Pretty quiet isn’t it? Not only are they quiet, but they are very powerful. The entry level dart models produce a flow rate of 2600 GPH and their gold models can easily push out 5500+ GPH!. These are the pumps for you monster keepers or those with big fish rooms with lots of water to move.

    These pumps are built in the USA and small business owned. The motors are fully rebuild-able meaning that you are can ensure that these pumps will operate for a lifetime. All the pumps come with multiple year warranties for worry free operation and purchase.

    They are expensive external pumps, but if I was looking for an external water pump for my fish room or basement and silence is a huge priority – this would be the pump I would be looking at. 

    Pros

    • Very powerful flow rate (high GPH)
    • More silent than other external return pumps
    • Rebuild-able motors 

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Big and bulky

    13. Reef Octopus VarioS – Quality Marine Brand DC Unit


    Reef Octopus VarioS

    A very comprehensive and competent DC pump made by Reef Octopus


    Buy On Amazon


    Click For Best Price

    The Reef Octopus VarioS return pump offers a fully controllable DC pump. This pump is controller ready, being able to connect with controllers like the Neptune Apex and is meant for aquarists looking for high end equipment.

    The controller is pretty comprehensive on it’s own offering a 15 or 16 minute feed mode and several speed settings. 

    The reef octopus is an expensive return pump, but those looking for a controller ready water pump won’t be disappointed by its performance. It is considered one of the best values for high end name brand DC pumps in the hobby. Reef octopus has a great brand name in our hobby.

    Pros

    • Aquarium controller ready
    • Very comprehensive controller

    Cons

    • Expensive
    • Only a 2 year warranty

    Our Recommendations

    If you have been reading our other articles, you may be aware of our Sicce bias, but there are options available for every type of build from the list presented above. Below are category recommendations:

    Buy vs. Skip: Straight Talk on the Top Picks

    Sicce Syncra SDC (DC) – Buy if: you have a sump-based reef system and want real controllability without compromising on reliability. This is the only DC pump with a 5-year warranty. Skip if you’re building a simple freshwater sump where a reliable AC pump does the same job for half the price.

    Sicce Syncra AC – Buy if: reliability is your absolute priority and you don’t need flow control. These run for 10-plus years without drama. Skip if you need a feed mode or fine-tuned flow adjustment.

    Jabeo DCP Sine Wave – Buy if: you want DC controllability on a tight budget and you’re buying from a seller with a fast return policy. Skip if you’re running a reef where a controller failure mid-vacation could wipe out livestock.

    EcoTech Vectra – Buy if: you’re already deep in the EcoTech ecosystem and want Apex integration with advanced flow modes. Skip if you’re put off by a 1-year warranty on a $400-plus pump.

    How Many GPH Should My Unit Be?

    When selecting a return pump, you need to know how many gallons per hour you need and how much water is going to be pushed distance wise. As the distance increases, there is loss on the flow called headloss. Here is a link to a headloss calculator so you can do a best estimate. Oversize your return pump slightly and use the pump’s control features or a gate value to reduce the flow rate to get it to the proper gallons per hour that you need. You may also decided to run additional equipment using a PVC manifold so oversizing would have it’s advantages if you go that route.

    Closing Thoughts

    In my early years building sump systems, sizing the return pump was the part that kept me up at night. Too small and you starve the display. Too big and you spend the whole setup fighting backpressure with a half-closed gate valve. DC pumps have really taken out the guess work with their ability to adjust power with the controller and not worry about added stress to the pump over time by having an over-sized and highly restricted return pump.

    AC pumps are still extremely valuable with their reliability and performance. If you take your time research the output that you need and get an appropriate gate valve you are set for worry free successor with an AC pump.

    If you have questions about sizing your return pump or picking the right type for your build, drop them in the comments. I’ve been doing this for 25 years and I’m happy to help you get it right.

    Your display tank is only as stable as your return pump. It’s not the place to save $40. The equipment that runs 24 hours a day, 365 days a year, with no days off, is worth buying right the first time.


    🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

  • Goldfish Tank – Your Guide To Successful Goldfish Care

    Goldfish Tank – Your Guide To Successful Goldfish Care

    After 25 years of watching goldfish keepers make the same mistakes, goldfish are not easy. They produce more waste than fish three times their price and need more space than most people realize. A single goldfish needs 20 gallons minimum and heavy filtration. Most goldfish deaths come from undersized tanks and inadequate filtration.

    A goldfish tank is not a set-it-and-forget-it project. It is a commitment to managing waste.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    The Goldfish is one of the most popular fish in our aquarium hobby. It may even have been the first fish you had when you first got introduced to aquariums. You may have even come across this article thinking about setting up a Goldfish tank for the first time or for a loved one. They really are amazing fish that is also easily misunderstood. Because they are first-time fish, a number of us enter into Goldfish care with little knowledge on what is needed to have them thrive.

    I’m sharing this article with you today so you can learn all the essentials plus more. I want you to be very successful in caring for your pet Goldfish. As quick disclosure, this blog post will contain affiliate links which I may get a small commission at no extra cost to you should you make a purchase. Now let’s get started!

    Key Takeaways

    • Goldfish are not beginner fish. They require larger tanks and are quite messy
    • They are coldwater fish and are best with other goldfish
    • Live plants with goldfish is possible if you know what plants to select
    • There are slim-bodied and fancy goldfish. Slim bodied are more athletic and can live in ponds

    History of Goldfish

    One crazy fact about Goldfish is that they were first kept for their meat. Yes, that’s right. Goldfish used to be what was for dinner in China, their area of origin. Goldfish are the domesticated version of wild carp from East Asia. Their original colors were silver-grey and they were known as “chi” in the East. It was one of the most common staples of meat in China at one time.

    Common Carp

    As carp continued to be bred for meat, a strange thing happened. Genetic mutations would occur with the carp and these “mutants” would end up with flashy red, yellow, and orange colors. If these fish were in the wild, they would get quickly eaten by predators since they stood out so much. These flashy-looking new fish caught the eye of Buddhist monks in the 9th century. They began to keep these colorful fish in their ponds. The Goldfish was born at this time as an ornamental pet. 

    The breeding of the fancy Goldfish varieties did not begin until the 1600s starting in Ming Dynasty China. They were highly regarded for their scales and it was tradition for a man to give his wife a goldfish on their first anniversary to symbolize the prosperous years to come. Goldfish were imported to North America around the 1850s. This video by Aquatography provides a deep look into the origins of goldfish.

    Care – The Major Factors We Need To Know

    Goldfish on the surface seem very hardy and easy to take care of. For the most part, they are. However, we want to have the best environment we can place them in. I want to go beyond the basic beginner setup and set you up for long-term success. Goldfish care is broken down into several parts:

    We have a video from our YouTube Channel that you can follow along as well. Be sure to check both as our blog goes into more detail. If you enjoy our channel, be sure to subscribe as we post videos every week!

    Aquarium Size

    I’m going to say it upfront to my readers. Goldfish do not belong in a Goldfish bowl. You may see Goldfish bowls everywhere, but bowls are not big enough for the long-term. You may purchase them as young new fish for your fish tank, but they will get large. In fact, the Common Goldfish can grow up to 10 inches in size and Fancy Goldfish can grow up to 8 inches in length. Some have grown as large as cats in rivers! That is a lot of Goldfish for a tank! Goldfish also have a lot of mass, especially the Fancy types. Given their adult sizes, it’s no wonder they were originally kept in ponds.

    When sizing an aquarium for a Fancy Goldfish, you will want to start out with a tank size of 20 gallons for a single Fancy. After that, it’s roughly 10 gallons per every other Fancy Goldfish. This means a 40 gallon tank can hold 3 adult-sized Fancy Goldfish. That doesn’t sound like a lot of fish, but remember they get pretty big. We need to ensure an aquarium is big enough not only for them to have room to swim around, but also so you are not a slave to water changes.

    For a common variety of Goldfish like a Comet, you will want to consider an aquarium size of 30 gallons and target at least 4 feet in length. Each subsequent comet you add would need an additional 12 gallons so for a 55 gallon tank, we are talking about 3 full-size Comets. Again, not a lot of fish. Keep in mind that Comets can grow up to 12 inches in length!

    For a Fancy Goldfish setup, I would recommend a larger aquarium like a 55-gallon tank or 60 gallon breeder.  These 4-foot-long tanks offer everything you need to get started. You can go cheaper if you wait for a dollar-per-gallon sale at your local chain pet store to pick these aquariums up.

    Filtration

    Goldfish in general are very hard on the bioload of an aquarium. They are large, messy, eat constantly throughout the day, and stir up your Aquarium Substrate all day. Maintaining a Goldfish tank requires a hefty filter. Keeping in mind that Goldfish are an entry-level fish for Aquarists, we are going to focus on more budget-friendly options. Our best option is a good quality aquarium Power Filter like a Hagen Aquaclear

    The Hagen Aquaclear is a quality-made, readily available power filter that has stood the test of time. It is very easy to customize each section of the filter stages to suit your needs. It will provide years of reliable operation. Make sure you size up one model that is made for a larger aquarium. A goldfish aquarium produce a lot of waste, so get try aiming for oversized filtration

    Parameters (Water Quality)

    The main thing with Goldfish tanks once you have the tank cycled is consistently monitoring your Nitrate and pH levels. Ammonia is a concern when you first cycle the tank or when you add new fish. Goldfish, due to their messiness and consistent desire to eat will produce a lot of waste. A full goldfish tank will end up running higher nitrate levels as a result. You want to test your nitrate levels regularly with a proper Aquarium Test Kit. Take care of your goldfish by ensuring your nitrates don’t go above 40. This will ensure you have the best water quality possible. 

    The pH levels of your Goldfish aquarium are also critical. Goldfish are like an aquarium at 7-8 pH at all times. This is different from most tropical fish and planted aquarium environments which prefer a pH at an acidic level lower than 7. Make sure your tap water has the proper pH and adjust accordingly if your tap is below 7. Always use a water conditioner like Sea Chem Prime to treat your water. A water conditioner will remove harmful chemicals out of your tap water like ammonia and chlorine and make it aquarium safe.

    Temperature

    Goldfish are cold water fish. Anything over 75 degrees for a Goldfish is going to stress out your fish. Goldfish actually have a large range of temperatures that they can live in. The range is from 50-75 degrees F, with the general ideal range being 65-72 degrees. This means that if you keep your home at room temperature, you should be fine without having an Aquarium Heater in your tank.

    There are two things we have to keep in mind with Goldfish tanks. If you live in a hotter climate, you need to control the temperature in your aquarium in the summer. This require an Aquarium Chiller or getting your specific room where your tank is to a cooler temperature with a mobile AC. If you live in a cold climate with very cold winters, you may want to consider having a heater handy when the temperatures get below freezing in your area. 

    Decorations

    When we think about Decorations for a Goldfish tank, we have to consider both space and safety. Common Goldfish are fast and enjoy swimming around. Fancy Goldfish are slow, clumsy, and have delicate fins. Both types of Goldfish need their space to swim. Consider having an open aquascape when building out a Goldfish tank.

    When it comes to the decor itself, we want to consider rocks, and artificial plants without sharp edges. We take the same consideration as we do with Betta Fish where we avoid sharp edges as the long fins of our Fancy Goldfish can get caught and damaged.

    A good brand to look into is marina naturals when looking at silk artificial plants. These plants will not damage the fins of your Fancy Goldfish. You will need to keep in mind that goldfish like to dig out plants. It may be a good ideal to anchor these down with rocks.

    Substrate

    Goldfish love to stir the substrate in search of food. They have big mouths, so substrates that are medium or larger in size can pose a problem for them as they can accidentally shallow the pebbles. We want to make sure that goldfish have a substrate that they can easily stir and scavenge around. Knowing this, the best goldfish tank substrate is going to be a sandy one. 

    A sandy grain size substrate like the one sold by Caribsea is what we are looking for. We want to work with a thin layer of sand. This is to counteract the big pitfalls of a sandy substrate. Sand can compact and create anaerobic pockets, which is very dangerous for your fish. A thin layer that barely covers the bottom of your aquarium and no more than 1/2 an inch is what we are shooting for. This sandy substrate will get stirred all day by your Goldfish and mimics their natural environment. This substrate is also pH neutral – a major factor because Goldfish need a pH of 7.2 – 7.6.

    Diet

    Food for Goldfish is an interesting topic because the industry is loaded with a lot of food targeted at beginners. These foods are cheap, easy to feed, clean, and last a long time. That is great for us humans, but they are not that great for our Goldfish.

    The most basic food offered to Goldfish is flakes. Most flake food offered on the market is full of fillers, which long-term is unhealthy for your Goldfish and creates a lot of waste. We want to upgrade the diet of our Goldfish to something better. At a minimum, we want to think about quality pellet food.

    A good brand for goldfish pellet is Northfin. They sell a premium Goldfish pellet formula specially designed for them. It is free from fillers and includes a healthy dose of Omega 3s to really help bring out the color in your Goldfish. I would recommend presoaking your pellets in aquarium water before you feed them to your Goldfish. This will allow for the pellets to soften and expand a bit so they don’t expand in your Goldfish’s gut. 

    Going further, we can look into freeze-dried food. I would recommend Hikari’s Bio-Pure Krill. Kill has the ability to boost carotene levels in your Goldfish. This helps produce better coloration in your Goldfish and can prevent them from turning black. This formula is multi-vitamin enriched so you do not have to supplement with a vitamin supplement like Vita-Boost.

    The next step up would be frozen food. These you would likely need to purchase from your local pet or fish store. For frozen food, look for brine shrimp, blood worms, or daphnia. Good brands to look at would be Hikari or Cobalt Aquatics.

    Lastly, we go with live foods. For live foods, I want to look at live plants. Goldfish in general, are known for eating a number of aquarium plants. While this is bad if you are looking for a planted goldfish tank (it is possible to have plants with goldfish – more on this later), we can use this to our advantage when supplementing our Goldfish’s diet. One plant that Goldfish love to eat that is fast-growing and readily available in our trade is Duckweed.

    If you are part of an Aquarium society or know anyone with a Planted Tank, there is a good chance they either have Duckweed or have grown it in the past. Duckweed is also grown in ponds for Koi and Goldfish. Goldfish love to gobble this plant up. It is very cheap to obtain and a very fast grower. It is very important to have food readily available in your aquarium for a Goldfish. We have to keep in mind that Goldfish do not have true stomachs.

    Because of this, they are always eating and hungry. You do need to feed goldfish regularly, but a natural food like Duckweed can really come in handy because you can make it available in your tank, it’s a natural filter, and it is eaten away by your Goldfish throughout the day.

    Aquarium Mates

    Tank mates for Goldfish is quite tricky. They have several factors working against potential Goldfish tank mates. They are a coldwater fish, so that eliminates all tropical freshwater fish right off the bat. Fancy Goldfish also are slow and have large fins, which is attractive to nip for a more active fish. Goldfish can also be bullies themselves. Their large size, mouths, and mass can present problems to smaller fish. For this reason, the best recommendation is to have a Goldfish-only tank.

    That being said, there are some tank mates that would work. These tank mates would be:

    • Coldwater snails like Nitrite and Apple Snails
    • Brittle Nose Plecos
    • Dojo Loaches

    Snails are a great addition because they will work on algae in the tank and for the most part Goldfish should leave them alone. If the Goldfish do decide to harass them, they are large enough to handle themselves and give you enough time to reconsider their compatibility. Every Goldfish is different after all.

    When it comes to Plecos, only the Bristle Nose Pleco is compatible with a goldfish. Common plecos are a bad idea as they require driftwood and can get very large.

    Dojo Loach

    Dojo Loaches (pictured above) are likely the best candidate when it comes to other fish in a goldfish tank. They get rather long at 5 inches and require at least a 30-gallon tank, but they can tolerate the cooler waters of a goldfish tank. They are very peaceful, very active, full of personality, and excellent scavengers. 

    It’s always best to introduce these new fish and inverts AFTER our goldfish have been added. We want to make sure our goldfish are established since they tend to be the ones that are bullied not the other way around! You will also want to consider a larger tank if you want to have other tank mates. A 55 gallon or 75 gallon fish tank would be good options.

    Live Plants

    Goldfish Planted Tank

    Plants for Goldfish like tank mates are tricky. You have a number of things working against you when it comes to them. Because Goldfish like cold water that is 7-8 in pH, this eliminates the majority of tropical aquarium plants available for sale. Goldfish also love to gobble up plants. They will eat just about any plant you stick in the tank. Another factor is that Goldfish stir up the substrate, which means that if you have any rooted plants that need to be established in your substrate, it is likely that your Goldfish will dig them out.

    That seems like there are a lot of things going against you when it comes to aquarium plants, but we also need to think about the benefits as well. Plants will really help with your water change efforts. They will thrive in the high nutrient environment that goldfish will create with the waste they produce. If you don’t want to be a slave to water changes, live plants is your ticket to relief. In large quantities, they can act as natural filtration for your tank.

    So let’s talk about what plants work best. We want to make sure these plants tolerate higher pH, will do well with high nutrients, won’t mind the cooler temperatures, and won’t get eaten by our Goldfish. These are:

    All of the plants above are Low Light Aquarium Plants. All you need to do if you want aquarium plants is to upgrade your lights to a proper Planted Tank LED System.

    Types

    There are a lot of different Goldfish types to house in your aquarium. All goldfish are long-lived and will provide years of joy for you. I’m going to break down a small list of Goldfish for you. I’m going to split it into two types:

    • Slim Bodied Goldfish
    • Fancy Goldfish

    Slim Bodied

    Slim bodied Goldfish are one of the hardiest fish you can purchase in the hobby. They is placed in home aquariums or outdoor in ponds. They will tolerate a wide range of temperatures. They are fast swimmers, very active, and aggressive eaters. They cannot be kept with Fancy Goldfish as they will out-compete them in an aquarium with how fast they swim around and eat. Below are a few types of slim bodied Goldfish:

    • Common Goldfish
    • Comet Goldfish 
    • Shubunkin Goldfish 
    • Wakin Goldfish

    The common Goldfish is also known as your “feeder” goldfish at pet stores. They are also the Goldfish you used to get at fairs as prizes. This Goldfish most resembles their original ancestors, the carp. They can grow as long as a foot if given a large enough aquarium or if housed in a pond. They are very hardy, very cheap, and long-lived fish.

    The Comet Goldfish is a variant of the common Goldfish that has a long fancy tail. They share the same hardy characteristics of the common, but with more flash with their tails. They will also get a foot long and are fast swimmers. They a relatively cheap fish to purchase.

    The Shubunkin Goldfish is a multicolored goldfish. These you will see placed in ponds as they get long and command a higher price tag than the former 2 mentioned. Some varieties of Shubunkin will grow fancy tails and fins.

    Shubunkin Goldfish

    Fancy

    Fancy Goldfish are selectively bred fish that have been created over the years. They are not found in the wild and exhibit multiple unique characteristics depending on the type. They are fish with a lot of mass on them and are clumsy in nature. They have long elegant fins and are slow swimmers. Because of the slower swimming speed, they do not mix well with slim-bodied Goldfish as they will be unable to compete with them for food.

    These egg shaped fish are valued for their looks. They tend to be more delicate than slim bodied Goldfish, but there are several varieties that are hardy and appropriate for beginners. A few examples of Fancy Goldfish types are:

    Ryukin Goldfish

    The Fantail, Black Moor, and Ryukin Goldfish are great fancy varieties that are appropriate for beginners. The Lionhead and Telescope Goldfish are varieties that would be considered more delicate and better suited for experienced Goldfish keepers. The main difference between the first three and their others is what stands out with the two other fish. The Lionheads are so modified that their dorsal fin is missing. Their fleshy-like head and clumsy nature make them sensitive to injury. For the Telescope, it’s the eyes. The eyes give them limited vision and make them delicate. It’s another Fancy that is not for beginners.

    I go into more detail on fancies in this blog post, but I wanted to help you identify what is a hardy Fancy Goldfish and which ones aren’t. The less modified features of the fish, the more likely it will be better suited for a beginner. Of all the Fancies listed here, my personal favorite is the Ryukin. It is bold, elegant, and hardy. It is a wonderful addition to a Fancy Goldfish aquarium.

    Putting It Together

    We have discussed a lot about Goldfish Tank care, food, housing, and types of Goldfish. It’s time to put everything we have learned today and make a comprehensive setup. In this setup, we are going to set up a Goldfish tank with live plants. You can opt not to use plants and save yourself on upgrading your light.  

    • Tank – 55 gallon for 60-gallon breeder
    • Lighting – Add another light strip to host low-light plants
    • Filter – Hagen Aquaclear or Fluval Canister Filter
    • Heater – None
    • Plants – Java Fern and Anubias
    • Rocks – Margo Garden Products 3-5″ Rain Forest Large Rocks (available on Amazon)
    • Substrate – Caribsea Super Naturals
    • Fancy Goldfish – 2 of your choice (after the tank has been cycled)
    • Water Conditioner (To treat tap water) – SeaChem Prime

    To save on money, we can purchase a 40 gallon breeder to 55 gallon tank during Petco’s dollar-per-gallon sale. All the other components fit very well for this setup and for what we want to house. If you opt for a 55 gallon tank, you can house 3-5 fancy goldfish. You will want to anchor your plants to your rocks so they don’t get stirred up by your Goldfish.

    If you opt for a dollar-per-gallon sale tank, you are free to select the light of your choice. I would recommend an led light like the Serene Pro LED if you are selecting a light for a planted aquarium setup.

    Additional Resources

    There are many books out there that go beyond the scope of this blog post. However, not all are created equal. There is one book I recommend when it comes to Goldfish care.

    Fancy Goldfish: Complete Guide To Care And Collecting 

    Over 100 Photos!
    Fancy Goldfish: A Complete Guide

    An in-depth book on the world of fancy goldfish. Highly recommended and full of timeless knowledge

    Buy On Amazon

    This Book Written by Dr. Johnson goes over diseases, prevention, health, breeding, and proper fish selection. It contains over 100 color photos of Fancy Goldfish. The information contained in this book is a full deep dive into the world of Fancy Goldfish. You will become an expert in knowledge after you read this book. It does have some outdated information given it was published back in 2001, but the majority of the information in this book I would consider evergreen.

    I would highly recommend it to anyone who really wants to keep the more exotic Fancy Goldfish or considering expanding into larger display tanks.

    FAQs

    What Size Aquarium Do They Need?

    The minimum size tank that a goldfish needs is 20 gallons. For each additional goldfish after the initial one, you will need at least 10 gallons. The best starter size to house multiple goldfish would be a 55 gallon tank.

    How Long Can They Live In A 1 Gallon Aquarium?

    A goldfish will not thrive and may not live very long in a 1-gallon tank. These tanks are too small for them. Goldfish do not have a labyrinth organ like a betta fish. This is how betta fish can live in small containers. Even then, it’s not ideal to place a fish in such a small tank. Consider placing your goldfish in an appropriately sized tank for its long-term health.

    Can They Live Without A Filter Or Air Pump

    Yes, goldfish can live without a filter or an air pump. However, it’s risky to do so. Without a filter, a goldfish tank may experience ammonia spikes.

    Closing Thoughts

    Goldfish go way beyond the fish in the bowl that money of us have seen in the past. There are many varieties of Goldfish with some of the exotic Fancy types selling for hundreds of dollars. They are large fish with personality and unique aesthetics. They do require larger tanks long-term, but they are long-live fish easily living over 10 years in more aquariums. I hope I showed you what Goldfish can offer you as a pet by reading this post. If you have any questions, leave a comment below. Thank you for reading.


    📘 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.