Tag: Freshwater

  • How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    Jewel cichlids are one of those fish where the name really does justice to the animal. The iridescent red and blue coloration on a healthy specimen is genuinely stunning. I’ve kept them and they’re hardy, bold fish with a lot of personality. The one thing I always emphasize: they’re aggressive, especially during breeding, and tankmate selection requires real thought or you’ll have problems.

    If you’ve been researching different species of cichlids, the jewel cichlid may, quite understandably, have caught your eye. Now, despite its undeniable beauty, the jewel cichlid gets a bad rap due to its semi-aggressive temperament.

    For many aquarists who wish to maintain a peaceful community tank, adding a jewel cichlid will not be worth it. However, keeping jewel cichlids is not only fun and rewarding, itโ€™s also a great way to liven up your aquarium. Although their temperament will pose a problem to novice aquarists, the jewel cichlid is a worthwhile pet.

    Wondering whether a jewel cichlid is worth putting in your home aquarium? Let our jewel cichlid care guide help you decide.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameHemichromis bimaculatus
    Common NamesJewel cichlid, jewel fish, African jewelfish
    FamilyCichlidae
    OriginAfrica
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelModerate
    ActivityModerately active to active
    Lifespan5 – 7 years
    TemperamentSemi-aggressive (Aggressive when breeding)
    Tank LevelMid to top level
    Minimum Tank Size30 gallons
    Temperature Range70ยฐF to 74ยฐF
    KHNeutral to soft; below 12 dKH
    pH Range7.0 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingMouth Brooders
    Difficulty to BreedEasy to breed; forms breeding pairs easily
    CompatibilitySpecies only or aggressive tank
    OK, for Planted Tanks?With Caution

    Origins and Habitat

    The jewel cichlid Hemichromis bimaculatus originates in West Africa. This is where the fish inhabit richly vegetated freshwater bodies like streams, rivers, and lakes. Jewel cichlids have also been documented in some parts of North Africa.

    Because these water bodies are teeming with other cichlids and don’t offer a wide variety of sustenance, they are very competitive habitats. This explains why these jewel fish are naturally aggressive and territorial.

    What Does the they Look Like?

    How Does A Jewel Cichlid Look Like

    The coloration of the jewel cichlid species varies widely. You’ll find them mostly in a bright orange-tinted red with vibrant white spots (this is the blood red jewel cichlid), but many are also colored purple with contrasting greenish spots (green jewel fish).

    This color will be intensified during the breeding season. During this time, you’ll also notice a longer ventral, anal, and dorsal fin. Some say that male cichlids have a brighter coloration than their female counterparts. 

    How Big Are They?

    Jewel cichlids may vary greatly in size, from as little as 3 inches to as large as 6 inches. In an aquarium, the size of this fish will be smaller than in the wild.ย 

    How Long Do Hemichromis bimaculatus Live?

    On average, a cichlid of this kind can be expected to live up to 5 years. If youโ€™re able to provide superior tank conditions and provide a perfectly balanced diet, your jewelfish might even live up to 7 years. This is rare, however.ย 

    Temperament and Activity Level

    The hemichromis bimaculatus is recognizable by its aggressive behavior. Particularly when it is stressed or underfed, a jewelfish is more likely to lash out and attack his/her tank mates. Breeding season is when the fish reaches the height of its aggression.

    This will all sound very scary, but for the committed aquarist, it’s actually not that difficult to ensure a stress-free environment for this freshwater fish. As long as tank requirements are strictly maintained. The best thing to curb aggression is space and lots of shelter. If you have a small tank, with lots of fish, and no shelter, your Jewel Cichlids will be more aggressive as they fight to claim limited territory.

    , your jewel cichlid fish will be seen flitting back and forth across the water. They are also very active fish who like to dig at their substrate, looking for food.

    Jewel cichlids are also monogamous, which means they form a breeding pair for life. If your jewel fish are in a pair, donโ€™t be surprised to see them together most of the time! 

    What are Good Tankmates?

    It will seem like a bad idea to include any tank mates for your jewelfish, fin nippers as they are. Well, you should listen to your instincts. Don’t put them in a community tank. These freshwater fish are best off in a species only or cichlid tank.  

    Good Tank Mates

    Despite their bad reputation, some jewelfish can, in fact, cohabit peacefully with certain other semi-aggressive species. Accordingly, here are some fish that will make acceptable mates for your jewelfish.

    • Clown loaches
    • Plecos
    • Electric blue acaras
    • Redtail shark
    • Syndontis catfish
    • Scavenger catfish
    • Leopard bullfish

    Jewel cichlids are one of the most aggressive fish you will ever keep relative to their size. They will terrorize tank mates, destroy aquascapes, and turn a peaceful community tank into a war zone overnight. When breeding, their aggression doubles. I have kept these for years and the number one mistake I see is people treating them like a regular community fish. They are not.

    The Reality of Keeping How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    The aggression reputation is earned but misunderstood. How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium is not randomly violent. It is territorial, and territory disputes in a poorly planned tank look like chaos.

    Group size controls behavior. Keep too few and you get a bully. Keep enough and aggression spreads out. There is a threshold, and missing it ruins the tank.

    Most problems are stocking problems. The fish is not the issue. The tank plan is the issue.

    Biggest Mistake New How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium Owners Make

    Keeping too few. A small group of How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium creates a hierarchy where the bottom fish gets destroyed. The solution is not fewer fish. It is more fish to spread aggression.

    Expert Take

    Stock heavily, filter aggressively, and provide sight breaks throughout the tank. How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium is manageable when you control the environment. Let the environment control itself and this fish exposes every weakness.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    When selecting home aquarium tank mates for your jewel cichlid, itโ€™s best to avoid all fish species if you can, except a few semi-aggressive fish mentioned above.

    In particular, peaceful aquarium fish species (for example, any goldfish species) should be avoided at all costs, as your jewelfish will harm them and will even eat or kill them. MBunas and Rift Lake Cichlids should be avoided as they are likely to be attacked and killed. 

    What Do Jewelfish Eat?

    Feeding jewel cichlids is fairly easy. As omnivorous freshwater fish, jewel fish will readily eat pellets, flake food, and live food as well.

    You should aim to provide as balanced a diet as possible. This means mixing and matching different food types. You can also consider giving them vegetables such as lettuce leaves and spirulina. Frozen foods are alright once a week. If feeding pellets or flakes, consider one that contains probiotics like the Cobalt Aquatics line.

    Best Flake Formula
    Cobalt Aquatics Cichlid Flakes

    With probiotics and specially formulated for Cichlids, this is bar none the best flake formula available for your Africans

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    What about Live Foods?

    Bloodworms, white worms, tubifex, and frozen baby brine shrimp are great live foods for jewel cichlids. Limit providing live foods to once a week.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    You should aim to feed your jewel cichlids at least twice a day. Be careful not to overfeed them, however, and donโ€™t confuse their voracious eating for constant hunger.

    Feeding your jewel fish properly is crucial if you want them to retain their vivid coloration.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Recreating the Africa habitat or breeding conditions of the jewelfish is not too difficult. Hereโ€™s all you need to know about how to set up the tank of your jewelfish.

     Tank Size

    Jewel Cichlid Pair

    For one pair of jewel cichlids, a tank size of at least 30 gallons is required. For each new pair, add 20 gallons. If you put them in a community aquarium (not recommended), provide a tank divider. When your Jewel Cichlids are in breeding mode, consider removing other tank mates if your tank is on the small side. They are known for taking over 30 and 40 gallon tanks!

    Substrate

    A sandy substrate is best for these fish as they love to dig. Anything sharper will injure them.

    Decor

    Decorations are a necessity when rearing jewel fish, who are territorial and love to claim their own space. Provide rocks and aim to create cave-like conditions. Rocks with holes or caves are ideal to provide shelter.

    Plants

    These fish are curious and active fish who love to dig. So, they will get in the way of your aquarium plants thriving unless the plants are protected by rocks and such. Floating plants and column feeders like Anubias Nana and Java Fern would be good examples of plants that could work.

    Water Quality

    Here are the water conditions you need to ensure for your jewel cichlids

    Filtration

    Provide adequate filtration for your jewel cichlids to ensure that they can enjoy a water flow mimicking the currents of the streams and rivers they’re used to. They are particularly hardy. They do well with your standard power filter

    Water Parameters

    Maintain these water conditions in your home tank to ensure a healthy environment for your jewelfish.

    • Water Temperature: 70ยฐF to 74ยฐF
    • pH Range: 7 to 7.5
    • Hardness Range: Not above 12 dGH
    • Water Movement: Moderate to strong

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Besides ensuring the proper parameters for your cichlid aquarium, conduct regular water changes of 25% – 40%. Remember, the goal is to reduce your jewelfishโ€™s aggression. Otherwise, their lifespan will be shortened.

    How to Breed?

    Breeding this species in tanks is relatively easy once you can determine their sex. As they are monogamous, cichlids form pairs quickly and easily during mating season, and once they are parents, they will stick together.

    Breeding Tank

    You can isolate your cichlid pair in a breeding aquarium, but itโ€™s not necessary if you have just one pair. Gradually raise the water temperature from their regular temperature by a few degrees every day until you reach 80ยฐ to 82ยฐ F (or 26.7ยฐ – 27.8ยฐ C).

    Breeding Behavior

    When the male is ready, his color will become very vibrant, and he will become very aggressive. Like other cichlid species, the male will chase the female about the tank for a little bit until she lays eggs.

    Once sheโ€™s ready, the female will search for the right place to lay her eggs. She will likely settle on a flat surface, typically a flat-faced rock. She will produce up to 500 eggs.

    After Breeding

    Once the eggs are fertilized, they will hatch within 2 to 4 days. After hatching, the jewelfish parents will help each other move their kids to a different part of the aquarium. During this time, the parents will be excessively aggressive in order to defend their young fish. 

    Feeding Fry

    Let the fry absorb the remainder of the egg yolk in the first few days. Afterward, feed them crushed flakes and mashed pellets. Donโ€™t be distressed if the new parents eat some of their offspring. 

    Health and Disease

    Your jewel cichlid is, unfortunately, prone to the illnesses most freshwater cichlids are prone to. Hereโ€™s how to tell whether your jewelfish is healthy or needs care. 

    Signs of Health

    A healthy jewelfish is a happy one. A happy jewelfish is playful and active (is interpreted as aggression), burrowing in the substrate or flitting about their aquarium. Most significantly, healthy jewelfish retains its vibrant coloration. 

    Signs of Ill Health

    Here’s a list of several common issues you may come across

    •  When a jewelfish is highly stressed, ill, or underfed, it will very likely lose its color. This is one of the most easily seen warning signs of this fish.
    • Swelling, loss of appetite, rapid breathing, and differently colored feces are all symptoms of Malawi bloat, a condition that mostly affects African cichlids.
    • Notice an indentation in the head of your jewel cichlid? He/she is suffering from hexamita, also known as “hole in the head” disease.
    • Look out for ich, which manifests in symptoms like lethargy, loss of appetite, and restless behavior, but most importantly, white spots on the body of the fish.
    • Labored breathing and a loss of color might indicate gill flukes.

    All of these conditions are covered in our freshwater fish diseases post.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    One of the easiest ways to ensure that your jewel fish is healthy is to provide the required tank parameters with care. Feed them regularly, donโ€™t overfeed, and provide a varied diet. This will keep most illnesses at bay.

    Hereโ€™s how to deal with other diseases that will come up:

    • If you think your jewelfish is suffering from Malawi bloat, act quickly. Change the tankโ€™s water and introduce a dose of Metronidazole. However, know that Malawi bloat is a condition that quickly turns fatal, so donโ€™t blame yourself if something goes wrong.
    • Administer the same treatments for ich as you would for other cichlids: increased tank temperature, salt baths, potassium permanganate, acriflavine, and malachite green.
    • If you suspect your fish is suffering from gill flukes, use Praziquantel.

    Where to Buy?

    Compared to other cichlid breeds, the jewelfish is a little harder to buy in brick-and-mortar pet shops. They will also be a little more expensive. If you cannot find them locally, try using an online fish store. Often times, their guarantee will be superior to what you can find locally.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Female Jewel Cichlid

    Are they aggressive?

    Semi-aggressive, yes. Especially when theyโ€™re in pairs and ready to breed, their aggression is strongest. Once the fry are born, jewel cichlids will defend their offspring to the best of their ability.

    If you must put your jewel cichlids in with other fish, get a tank divider. Even better if you can get a separate tank entirely. And try to ensure large tanks.

    What fish can go with them?

    Put bluntly, it’s best not to put your jewel cichlids in with other fish. If you must, we would recommend other cichlids as tank mates, as well as certain bottom-dwelling semi-aggressive species.

    Can they live with oscars?

    Itโ€™s not impossible, but itโ€™s difficult to achieve harmony between oscars and jewel cichlids. This is not only because oscars are famously aggressive fish; they are also significantly larger than jewel fish. So unless you can provide a large tank (at least 100 gallons), itโ€™s not recommended.

    Can angelfish live with this type of fish?

    Once again, itโ€™s not recommended. Although the jewelfish and angelfish are both cichlids, the latter is somewhat more docile and therefore more prone to being harmed by your jewel fish.

    Are they hard to keep?

    If you want a varied and healthy community tank, jewel cichlids is more trouble than they are worth. Besides this, these fish are pretty easy to keep, with the right tank size and setup.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium

    A properly stocked How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium tank is one of the most active, dynamic setups in the hobby. There is always something happening.

    The aggression is structured, not random. Once territories are established, the tank settles into a pattern. Disrupting that pattern restarts the conflict.

    Watching How to Care for a Jewel Cichlid in Your Home Aquarium interact is endlessly entertaining. These are smart fish with complex social dynamics.

    What It Is Actually Like Living With Jewel Cichlid

    A jewel cichlid tank is never boring. These fish are always doing something. Patrolling territory, displaying to each other, digging in the substrate, or staring you down through the glass. They have more personality per inch than most fish three times their size. You will catch yourself talking to them, and you will not feel weird about it.

    The color display during breeding is the highlight. Both parents intensify to a deep, glowing red covered in iridescent blue-white spots. It looks like someone painted them. The male flares and displays while the female fans the eggs, and the entire tank seems to pulse with energy. It is one of the most visually spectacular things that happens in a freshwater aquarium.

    The aggression is the price of admission. During breeding, you cannot do tank maintenance without getting bitten. You reach in with a siphon and both parents charge your hand. It does not hurt much, but it is startling every time. Other fish in the tank learn to stay in their corners or suffer the consequences. You accept this or you remove the jewels. There is no peaceful coexistence during a breeding cycle.

    Closing Thoughts

    Jewel cichlids do not have tank mates. They have targets.

    Even our dearest loved ones are sometimes obnoxious, we donโ€™t stop loving them. Try to adopt the same approach to your jewel cichlids. Maintaining their behavior is difficult, but maintaining their diet and water parameters is easy. And the end result is definitely rewarding. Good luck!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • The Secrets To Keeping A Planted Aquarium โ€“ An Aquascaper’s Approach

    The Secrets To Keeping A Planted Aquarium โ€“ An Aquascaper’s Approach

    I’ve been keeping planted tanks for over 25 years, and the biggest thing I’ve learned is that success comes down to understanding a few core principles. not collecting more gear or more plants. I’ve set up everything from simple low-tech tanks to high-tech CO2-injected setups, and the fundamentals are what separate thriving planted tanks from the ones that turn into algae disasters within a month. This guide gives you an aquascaper’s honest perspective on what actually matters when keeping a planted aquarium.

    The Basic Question – What Do You Want Out Of A Planted Aquarium?

    This is the number 1 question you need to ask yourself when setting up a planted aquarium. To make it simple for you I will ask you this question

    What Type Of Planted Aquarium Do you Want?

    Are you looking for easy maintenance? Championship level? Do you want one of those crazy planted tanks you see on Pinterest and Instagram? All of this is attainable if you set your goals. It all starts on if you are in the low-tech or high-tech side of the hobby. This all relates to CO2 usage. There are four levels of planted tanks that you should be aware of and they are:

    • Level 1 – Low-tech non-CO2
    • Level 2 – Low-tech CO2 supplementation with SeaChem Excel
    • Level 3 – High-tech CO2 with low light (Most aquascapers will eventually fall here)
    • Level 4 – High-tech CO2 with high intensity lighting

    Before we can go over each level we should understand the role of CO2 in our aquariums.

    Planted Aquariums and CO2

    CO2 levels drives grows in a planted aquarium. It’s not nutrients, proper lighting, or substrates. CO2 is the center and driver to rich, fast, and supple healthy plant growth in your aquarium plants. There are multiple levels of non-CO2 usage and CO2 usage. 50% of plants dry mass is carbon. As we learned in my CO2 System Article, aquatic plants in the wild enjoy evaluated levels of CO2 as high as 50 PPM.

    Since CO2 drives the growth in our planted aquariums, we have to design the rest of our system around it. Let’s next talk about the decision to do CO2 or not.

    To Add or Not to Add CO2

    CO2 Injected Planted Tank

    What do you sacrifice the most when you decide to not use CO2? What you sacrifice is growth and the showcase look. There are plenty of low light aquarium plants that will do well without CO2, however, you will sacrifice their growth rate and thickness by excluding CO2.

    In essence, they are generally living in a non-CO2 environment. These non-CO2 low light plants will grow, but their true potential is unleashed with a CO2 system.

    This is why I recommend even if an aquarist is planning on not using CO2, that they at least consider dosing CO2 using SeaChem Excel. SeaChem Excel functions as an alternative to CO2 injection. While not as effective, Excel will still improve the growth rate of aquarium plants 2 – 4 times versus the traditional 10 – 25 times plant growth rate you will experience with injection.

    Excel dosing puts us in level 2 territory. We can still build plenty of wonderful aquascapes with this and not have to deal with the added complexity and cost of a CO2 system. I am definitely an odd ball compared to many bloggers online, as I do not recommend level 1 if one is getting into planted aquariums. Call me vain, a purist, or spoiled – but I do love me some killer looking aquascapes and I want you to have the ability to enjoy building to that level.

    For those of you looking to do amazing aquascapes and looking to get into reds, stem plants, and lush carpeting plants, CO2 injection is a must. It’s hard to visualize what these aquascapes will look like, so I will explain that later in this post when we get into aquascape styles and examples.

    When it comes to a quality CO2 system, I highly recommend CO2Art. They sell an excellent combo package that gives you all the essentials you need to get start. The box below comes with a inline diffusor, my favorite method of diffusor. I would love a CO2 reactor, but unfortunately those cool looking AquaMedic CO2 reactors can’t be found in the US – so this is the best you can get in the states.

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    Which Substrate is Best?

    When it comes to planted aquascapes the hierarchy I believe in is CO2>Substrate>Lighting>Fertilizer. CO2 drives the 3 others, substrate is our next starting point, planted aquarium lighting pushes CO2 intake, and fertilizer is how we balance everything.

    Substrate comes into planted tanks as this is our base for nutrients for our aquarium plants. Whether you decided on column feeding plants or roots plants, substrate will still play a role. A good substrate for a planted aquarium will be an active, nutrient-rich substrate to serve as a baseline for nutrient uptake for our aquatic plants.

    When it comes to planted tank substrates, many articles you may come across may stop at a basic overview of substrates. I’m going to give you the professional aquascapers view first then break it down to a more realistic senario for beginner. You should always understand the professionals perspective so you know the end goal and why quality investments are key for long term success.

    The secret for professional aquascapers is utilizing a layer system. This layer system is founded on ADA principals and are the following:

    • Layer 1 – Nutrient-Rich Planted Aquarium Power (Base Powder)
    • Layer 2 – Nutrient-Rich Aqua Soil
    • Layer 3 – Inert substrates and decorative caps

    Each layer plays a role in a professional aquascape. Let’s dive in!

    Layer 1 – Nutrient-Rich Substrates (Powder)

    This is the first level in a professional aquascape, This is also known as “power sand” or power soils with ADA being the major brand and benchmark in this field. This fine powder serves as a bottom layer in a planted aquascape. This substrate only covers the first 1.5 inches of the bottom. The rest of the layers will have other substrates.

    The purpose of this power sand is to provide a nutrient rich base to the bottom floor for our rooted and carpeting plants. This will ensure your bottom level has a strong base and can be refreshed with root tabs in the future.

    Unfortunately, ADA power sand is difficult to find online. It is best to purchase from an LFS or directly from AquaForest Aquarium – the main US distributor of ADA products.

    Layer 2 – Nutrient-Rich Aquarium Substrates (Soil)

    Layer 2 are our Aquasoils or our active substrates. This is what many planted aquarium enthusiasts work with. They will work primarily with this soil and spread it across their tank so they can use rooted plants and carpeted plants to cover their aquarium. It is also designed to be sloped and can maintain its shape when doing so. The most famous aqua soil is ADA Amazonia. It is the most nutrient rich and can be difficult for new aquascapers to use.

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    For new aquascapers, Tropica aquasoil is a great alternative that is well proven in Europe and touted by the likes of world famous aquascaper George Farmer.

    If you are working with rooted plants, it is a good idea to use layer 1 and this layer in combination to have a rich base for your aquatic plants to absorb in as they grow. There are DIYers who like to use organic soil as an active substrate. I’m guilty of being a purist, so I won’t cover it in this post, but I will have one of my other aquascapers cover it in a future post.

    The next layer can be decorative or functional

    Layer 3 – Inert Substrates

    Planted Tank With Inert Substrate

    These can have two functions in a planted tank. In a planted aquarium that is low tech with mostly column feeding aquatic plants, this substrate can be spread all across the aquarium to cover the bottom. There are also beginner based substrates like Caribsea Eco Complete that can be use as a functional substrate for beginner friendly rooted tanks.

    The second function is decorative. In a professional aquascape, you will see inert substrates cover the other 2 layers and “cap” the substrates for aesthetic purposes. Other times, the functional layers are separated into sections in the aquascape where layer 1 and 2 are together for carpeting and rooted plants and there is a separate area of the fish tank with the inert substrate that serves as a foreground and an area for bottom dweller fish and shrimp.

    One awesome accent you can do with inert substrates with separate sections is make pathways in the aquascape that make your aquarium look like a living underwater forest. These can create spectacular scapes and are often features you will see in award winning Aquascapes

    Purpose of Lighting

    A proper light has the right PAR, spread, and spectrum. I preach these 3 principles in any aquarium lighting topic I cover.

    PAR

    PAR (or Photosynthetically Active Radiation) is the measurement of light intensity in our aquarium. Quality manufacturers will have done their R&D and will have their PAR figures published for customers to see. PAR levels by plant species varieties. The ones that require the least amount of PAR are known as low-light plants in our tech.

    For PAR, I have this sheet from the Barr Report below that shows you the ranges. The lights I’m going to talk about today will get you in these ranges. Check out my best LED lights for Planted Tanks post for more in-depth detail on PAR.

    PAR for Planted Tanks

    Spectrum

    Spectrum is all about hitting the hitting the desired wavelengths in the Red, Green, and Blue spectrum as shown below from ADA. Spectrum is another complex topic. The lights I’m going to mention below have this covered. To break it down simply, the best lights that hit these desired wavelengths are branded as “RGB” lights in our hobby.

    Spread

    Spread is the last principle. Because these are LEDs, they need to be spread and diffuse. All the best LED systems will have a diffusor built in to work around the limitations of LED as they are naturally focused lights. This prevents shading and ensures even coverage in your fish tank.

    The 4 levels of Lighting Systems

    A high quality light will have all 3 principles checked. When it comes to the plant tank market, I can separate planted aquarium lighting into 4 categories:

    • Level 1 – Entry Level Lights
    • Level 2 – Lights For Dense Planting (Most of you will fall here)
    • Level 3 – Lights For Advanced Aquaccapes
    • Level 4 – Professional Level Lights

    Level 1 – Entry Level Plant Lights

    Entry level lights are for simpler aquascapes. This lights will allow you to keep the low light plants and easier to maintain aquatic plants. These lights will include such lights like the Twinstar B and C Series, Chihiros A-Series and C-2, and the Fluval Planted 3.0.

    Level 2 – Lights for Dense Planting

    This is the level I look at when it comes to Aquascaping. At this level level, you should be able to keep around 3/4 of the live plants available in the trade. If you desire carpeting plants like Monte Carlo and densely planted aquascapes this is where we start.

    For these lights, we look at the Twinstar E Series, Chihiros WRGB, ONF Flat Nano.

    Level 3 – Lights for Advanced Aquascapes

    These are the lights you go to where you want to grow a bunch of harder to care for plants and red plants. These lights have the ideal PAR, Spectrum, and spread and will successfully grow all aquatic plants. Your main concern here is balancing light, CO2, and nutrients so you don’t have a bunch of algae growth. For this range you would be looking at the Twinstar S Series, Chihiros WRGB, Chihiros C2 RBG3, and ONF Flat One+

    Level 4 – Professional Lights

    These are the lights that the pros use and competition entrants. These would include lights like the ADA Solar RGB, Chihiros Vivid 2, and UNS Titan. This lights are not for beginners and requires an advanced understanding of aquascaping.

    For most plant tanks owners. I would recommend you look at level 2 lights.

    Nutrients and Fertilizers

    Aquatic plants use macro and micro nutrients to grow. Macro nurients include Nitrates, Phophate, and Potassium. Micro nutrients include Iron, Manganese, and trace elements. Some plants feed primarily through their leaves, while others are root-feeders. I go through in detail in my best aquarium fertilizer post. The main takeaway are live plants need Macro and Micronutrients and fertilizers supply that in mass planted tanks.

    Fertilizer Requirements

    Every aquarium is unique, so it is advisable to look at your aquatic plants over the course of the first month or two and look for signs of deficiency. Fertilizers come more into play as you use CO2 as the nutrients your fish produce will not be enough for them to grow. Plants use nutrients continuously just like CO2.

    When selecting a good liquid fertilizer, look for a supplement with trace elements such as iron, manganese, boron, zinc, etc. Look for a good ratio of nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P), and potassium (K), otherwise known as the NPK ratio1. Regular water changes also replenish other elements, such as dissolved minerals (calcium, magnesium) and carbonate salts in the water, which are a necessity for fish.

    This is can get super confusing very quick and turn into a massive post. To take out the guesswork, I’ll recommend that you work with daily dosing with a branding all in one liquid fertilizer. The best in the business in my opinion is APT Complete by 2Hr Aquarist. Just follow their instructions and you should be well on your way in A CO2 injected tank. They even back it up with a 100 day guarantee.

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    Filtration

    There are two schools of thought when it comes to planted tanks. The first is what I call the more casual approach where an aquarist feels that you can run a planted aquarium with a massive amount of plants will little or no filtration. The second school of thought is the aquarist that feels that you filtration is the heart of every successful system.

    I fall under the second school of thought. Live plants have the potential to produce more ammonia (aka fish waste) that your fish ever will in a densely planted aquarium. The leaves they drop will decay and need to be picked up by your filter. You need to have a ton of biological filtration to reduce ammonia because it becomes problematic and leads to algae growth.

    This is why I feel if you are going to be serious about aquascaping, you need to consider buying the best canister filter you can afford. Personally, I’m a OASE fanboy. They are in my mind, the best canister filter ever built. The prefilter section comes out for easy maintenance and the aquarium heater chamber is innovative. The prefilter feature sells itself!

    All you need to do is modify the setup by removing all the filtrations chambers and replacing it with a superior biological filtration like SeaChem Matrix and putting Purigen to keep your water clear. Add a fine polishing filter pad and you are good to go!

    Types of Plants and Their Lighting Requirements

    All types of plants require different lighting levels, some require bright light and others survive on less. Let’s start with the types of plants first. For these plant examples, I’ll focus on low light plants or low energy/low tech plants.

    Foregound Plants

    These are smaller plants that are on the shorter side. They can be placed in the substrate or placed near the beginning of the hardscape. Examples of these plants would include plants like:

    Mid-Ground Plants

    Anubias Plant

    These are taller plants best suited in the middle of the aquarium. These would include plant species like:

    Background plants

    Background plants are tall plants that serve as a background to your aquarium. These would include plants like:

    When it comes to aquarium lighting requirements, reds, stem plants and carpeting plants will require the most light. The good thing is a solid online retailer will give you the ability to search plants by light level so you can determine which ones work for you.

    Carpeting plants

    Some carpet plants are Dwarf baby tears (Hemianthus callitrichoides) and dwarf hairgrass. These are famous for their vibrant natural look and require a lot of light. Staurogyne Repens is one of the more popular carpeting plants for low tech/low energy setups. Monte Carlo is one of the most popular carpeting plant species used in aquascapes due to its easier to grow nature and spread in CO2 injected tanks.

    To have the best success with carpeted plants, CO2 injection is recommended. You can also give yourself a good head start if you use a dry start method to grow out your carpet.

    Red Plants

    Red plants is a whole section in itself as many have more advanced care requirements. If you are beginner, I would recommend to avoid red plants until you have more experience. That being said if you really want a red plant, consider plant species like Ludwigia Natans Super Red, Ludwigia Repens, or Alternanthera Rosanervig. As with carpeting plants, CO2 injection is recommended.

    Live Plant Selection

    Live plant selection can be overwhelming with over 400 aquarium plants to choose from in our hobby. The best place to start is determine what you are looking for. If you are looking for low energy/low tech plants, stick with those. Stem plants require more maintenance as they grow fast.

    I also recommend starting with low energy/low tech plants, then moving into CO2, then move into more advanced plants. These easier to care for plants will thrive even more in CO2. Always shop with a plan and never walk into a local fish store not knowing what you are looking for.

    Selecting Live Plants

    Aquarium selection I feel is easier these days if you use the rimless aquarium selections available. I would recommend a rimless aquarium if you want to do an aquascape as it offers the highest clarity and aesthetics. They also offer them in ideal sizes. If we use ADA standards here are the dimensions for selecting an aquarium.

    • 60P (Small) – 24″ x 12″ x 14″ or 60 x 30 x 36 cm (17 gallons)
    • 90P (Medium) – 36″x 18″ x 18″ or 90 x 45 x 45 cm (48 gallons)
    • 120P (Large) – 48″ x 19.7″ x 19.7″ or 120 x 50 x 50 cm (80 gallons)

    If you work off these dimensions at the 2, 3, and 4 foot fish tank length, you will have an ideal space to build an aquascape and show depth. You can purchased rimmed tanks for less. They will offer less clarity and aesthetics, but it will save you money. The most available rimless for aquascapers online will be from Landen and UNS Aquariums.

    Determining Your Aquascape

    Sanzon Iwagumi

    Aquascapes are beautiful yet complex. I’m going to list out the main three aquascaping styles in our aquarium hobby then will link to articles that go more in-depth. The top three scaping styles are:

    Of the 3 styles, the most trendy currently is the Nature Aquarium. This style has been popularized by ADA and featured in many aquascaping competitions.

    Selecting Fish

    When it comes to fish for aquascapes, schooling fish are going to be the more ideal. There is are also design elements to keep in mind when selecting fish. This would be:

    • Smaller and long fish add a dynamic effect to a planted aquarium
    • Tall and round fish add calm and peacefulness

    There are also sizes of the aquarium to keep in mind to. I’ll split this by size so you can determine what fits for you and include links to the fish profiles:

    Rasboras

    There are other inhabits you can include such as freshwater shrimp and algae eaters like Otocinclus. The schooling fish are the heart of the scape. The other fish and inhabitants are functional fish that serve a role such as algae eating.

    How to Set Up a Fish Tank with Live Plants

    We are going to work with level 2 setup here – low-tech with CO2 supplementation using SeaChem Excel. I’ll use a 60P tank to build. Here would be the list to setup:

    • Aquarium. UNS 60U orย Landen 60P
    • Stand. Aqua Worx Aquarium Stand. 60U
    • Filtration. Oase Biomaster 350
    • Driftwood . ย Manzanitaย or Spiderwood Driftwood
    • Substrate. Tropica Aquarium Soil. Powder Granule
    • Aquarium Lighting. Fluval Plant 3.0 orย Twinstar E-Series
    • Plants (examples below)
      • Easy To Care For- Bucephalandra, Anubias Nana, Crypts
      • Carpets. Micranthemum โ€˜Monte Carloโ€™, Dwarf Hairgrass
      • Mosses. Java Moss,ย Christimas Moss
      • Reds. Ludwigia Natans Super Red, Ludwigia Repens

    This is likely a higher end setup than what you would typically see. I want to set you up for success. This setup is more future proof as you can step up to CO2 and more aggressive growing aquatic plants as the foundation of the system is setup to handle this. You may have to upgrade the light if you push to high light demand plants, but this should get you going well.

    Common FAQS

    Are they hard to maintain?

    If setup with a beginner in mind, they will not be hard to maintain. Planted aquariums can be as easy to maintain or as difficult as you want. It all depends on your plant selection, your light intensity, and CO2 injection. A fish tank with high intensity aquarium lighting and CO2 injection will require lots of pruning. A tank with low intensity and no CO2 will requirement less pruning, but may struggle with excessive algae growth.

    Do these tanks need water changes?

    Most planted tanks will require water changes. There are some low tech setups that can be designed to live without water changes. They are not the best looking, but one of the easiest to maintain aquariums. Most high energy planted tanks will require regular water changes due to purposely overdoing aquarium fertilizers to reset the system (known as the estimative index1).

    What is the best substrate?

    The best substrate for a planted aquarium would be an active substrate. The best beginner active substrate for an aquascape would be Tropica aquarium soil powder. The best advanced active substrate would be ADA’s Amazonia substrate system.

    Can I use LED lights?

    Yes, you can use LED lights for planted aquariums. They have come a long way since they were first introduced. Many even include timers, dimmers, and color spectrum customizations that can all run off your smart phone! They are the new wave of lighting in our hobby.

    Further Reading

    This blog article is fairly long and there is a whole bunch I could get into. The best way to get more in-depth on this is with books. Here is what I would recommend for reading:

    Aquascaping – By George Farmer

    My Pick
    Aquascaping

    Created by UK Aquascaper and co-founder of the UK Plant Society, George Farmer. This book is a full color 317 page deep drive into the incredible world of aquascaping!

    Buy On Amazon

    This to me is the modern aquascaping bible. Created by world renowed aquascaper and YouTube personality George Farmer, this book offers a lot of information well beyond the scope of this blog post. I highly recommend this to anyone who is serious about getting into aquascaping.

    Sunken Gardens – A Step By Step Guide To Planting Freshwater

    Also Great
    Sunken Gardens

    Written by American Aquascaper, ADA Judge, and editor of AGA magazine Karen Randall. This 252 page book offers an in-depth look into your first aquascape build!

    Buy On Amazon

    Karen is a seasoned aquascaper and past president of the Boston Aquarium Society and chairs several aquascaping competitors every year. Her book goes into great detail about planted aquarium setup and has several how to picture tutorials.

    Closing Thoughts

    This article was a joy to write up. Passionate subjects like this I can write for days ๐Ÿ˜….I hope youโ€™ve found this article helpful in understanding how to maintain a planted aquarium. If you have any other questions, please donโ€™t hesitate to leave them in the comments below and I will get back with an answer for you as soon as possible! Happy scaping!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • RANCHU GOLDFISH – Caring For The Beautiful King Of Goldfish

    RANCHU GOLDFISH – Caring For The Beautiful King Of Goldfish

    Ranchu Goldfish are the most selectively bred fancy goldfish variety. That breeding comes at a cost. They are slow swimmers, poor competitors for food, and sensitive to water quality swings.

    Ranchus are not for beginners. They are for goldfish keepers who already understand filtration, water changes, and feeding.

    Considered the โ€œKing of Goldfishโ€ by the Japanese, Ranchu goldfish are among the oldest and most popular fancy goldfish. They hold a special place in the minds of many goldfish enthusiasts, thanks to their unique appearance. An aquarium teeming with these beautiful fish is sure to enhance the aesthetic appeal of just about any place, be it your home or your office!

    So, if youโ€™re looking to keep fancy goldfish, you should consider Ranchu Goldfish. They are available in various shapes and colors to make your fish tank appear lavish and elegant. Keep reading to learn more about these incredible fancy goldfish, as we will provide all the necessary information on how to properly care for your King (or Queen).

    A Brief Overview of Ranchu Goldfish

    Scientific Name Carassius Auratus Auratus
    Common Names Maruko, Buffalo-head Goldfish, Korean Goldfish
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin Japan
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Moderate
    Activity Moderately Active
    Lifespan 10 to 15 Years
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level Medium
    Minimum Tank Size 20 Gallons
    Temperature Range 65ยฐF to 72ยฐF
    Water Hardness 4-20 dGH
    pH Range 6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water Flow Moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg-layer
    Difficulty to Breed Moderate
    Compatibility Compatible with Other Slow-Moving Fancy Goldfish
    OK, for Planted Tanks? With Caution

    Origins and Habitat

    The story of Ranchu Goldfish (Carassius auratus) begins in ancient Japan, unlike other fancy goldfish that began in ancient China. They were developed from Chinese Lionhead Goldfish by skilled Japanese breeders. Today, modern day Ranchu Goldfish is found almost anywhere in the world, not just in China or Japan.

    Ranchuโ€™s arenโ€™t wild fish, so we must look at their ancestors to learn about their natural habitat.

    Like any other goldfish, they descended from an old species of wild carp, known commonly as the Gibel Carp, Silver Prussian carp, or simply Prussian Carp.

    These wild carp thrive in slow-moving, slightly cold waters of ponds, lakes, and rivers. Ranchus also prefer similar water conditions and share a lot of traits with Prussian Carp and other goldfish.

    What Does Ranchu Goldfish Look like?

    Ranchu Goldfish

    Itโ€™s quite easy to identify Ranchu Goldfish as they have a rather unusual head growth, an egg-shaped body with a deeper belly, and a horizontally spreading caudal (tail) fin. Looking from the top view, they look a lot like moving worms when swimming. Thatโ€™s where the name โ€œRanchuโ€ comes from (which literally means “dutch worm” in Japanense).

    Another striking feature of the Ranchu goldfish species is that they donโ€™t have any dorsal fin, much like their Lionhead counterpart. However, Ranchus come with arched backs, unlike the flat backs of Lionhead specimens. Initially bred for top view, they look just as impressive when viewed from the sides nowadays.

    They are available in a wide variety of colors, ranging from red, white, orange, blue to bi-colors like red-and-white, black and red, black and white, etc. Their scales is metallic, matte, or nacreous. So, a couple of differently-colored Ranchus will make your aquarium colorful and lively! Black ranchu goldfish are one of my personal favorites.

    These fish are comparatively more delicate than other goldfish because of their unique anatomy. So, they are probably not the best option for beginner aquarists. Overall, the beautiful appearance and the unique swimming style of the Ranchu goldfish make them the perfect candidate for any goldfish aquarium.  

    Are They Easy to Take Care of?

    Ranchu Goldfish are genetically weaker than other goldfish as they are highly inbred. They are pretty exquisite and not as hardy as other species. Their unique anatomy makes them prone to health issues. So, they arenโ€™t easy to take care of and require special care. You must have some experience before handling this fish.

    The rounded body and the lack of dorsal fin reduce the amount of control Ranchus have over their body when swimming. So, they canโ€™t swim as efficiently as others. Swimming is more tiring for them as well, as you will often see them moving slowly and resting now and then to regain energy. Moreover, the wen or the head growth covers their eyes and makes it harder for them to see.

    As a result, Ranchus arenโ€™t good at competing for food. In a tank with fast swimmers and aggressive fish, they will be unable to feed and thrive. The Ranchu goldfish cannot tolerate pollution at all. They will be quick to pick up diseases if the water isnโ€™t clean enough.

    Thanks to their rounded body shape, they are highly vulnerable to swim bladder disease. Furthermore, the wen can easily get infected. If you donโ€™t keep a Ranchu goldfish in a well-maintained fish tank with a high-quality aquarium filter, they wonโ€™t thrive. It doesnโ€™t take much to stress them out and put them into shock. Their care requirements are much higher than others, so make sure to be extra careful and put more effort.

    What Is their Eating Habits?

    Itโ€™s easy to feed Ranchus as they are omnivorous. They like to eat whatever they find, so itโ€™s up to you to decide which type of food you will provide them. A well-balanced diet comprised of high-quality frozen, fresh, and flake foods is the best for any breed of goldfish.

    Brine shrimp, Daphnia, tubifex worms, blood worms, black worms, etc., are some of the most suitable foods for Ranchus. You should minimize the use of live foods as they often contain bacteria and parasites that can make them sick. Ranchus take longer to feed as they have poor vision due to their head growth. You will have to feed them several times a day but remember not to overfeed.

    A favorite food staple is soaked pellets or freeze fried food supplemented with vita-chem. This is a great way to add much needed nutrients to common foods. Probiotics are also becoming more common place with food manufacturers with Companies like Cobalt leading the charge.

    My Pick


    Vita Chem

    One of the best nutritional supplements you can use for freshwater fish. Works great with pellet and fried dried foods.


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    Can They Live Alone?

    The Ranchu, like any other goldfish, can live a long life in solitude. This breed of fish doesnโ€™t mind living alone as long as they get enough food and decent water quality.  However, they are social animals, and they can benefit from social interaction. Ranchus love playing around with other fish as they enjoy companionship.

    They love being social in groups. In fact, check out super-cute video of Ranchu goldfish playing football (As reported by the South China Morning Post) to see how fun they is to have around.

    They will be visibly happier if you keep them together with other tank mates that wonโ€™t compete with them or harass them. So, itโ€™s better to introduce similar types of fish in a Ranchu aquarium if you want the best for them. They do great in an all goldfish tank full of other fancy goldfish varieties.

    How Big Can They Grow? What Tank Size Is Right for Them?

    Fancy fish like the Ranchu Goldfish are developed to impress you with their shapes, not their sizes. With that being said, the average length of adult Ranchus is around 5โ€. However, under the right water conditions, they can grow even larger, up to 8 inches!

    Learning the size is important because it determines what the tank size that houses them should be. You must make sure to provide them enough room where they can swim freely. In general, the minimum requirement for housing one full-grown Ranchu is 20 gallons.

    However, you should start with 20-30 gallons if you want to ensure maximum comfort for your prized fish. Increase the tank size by 10-gallons every time you bring a new fish into the tank. Larger tanks are recommended because that will provide more space for them to swim, and you wonโ€™t have to deal with water changes as frequently.

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Ranchu have a surprisingly long lifespan. This breed of Japanese goldfish can live for 10 to 15 years! If you keep them in an aquarium with suitable water conditions and ensure a proper diet plan, you can increase the lifespan to 18 years or even more!

    Taking care of Ranchus will undoubtedly pay off. Even though these fish have low tolerance, they will stay healthy and active for a long time as long as you provide for them.

    Additionally, you should keep them under constant monitoring. Look for any signs of diseases or discomfort. Perform water changes as often as required. If you notice any difference in their bodies, take action quickly to prevent them from suffering or dying.

    Are They Aggressive?

    The Ranchu Goldfish is anything but aggressive. They have an incredibly peaceful temperament, and they are rather friendly and cheerful. Their unique structure prevents them from being violent, anyway. For instance, they canโ€™t swim all that fast and tire out pretty easily. They canโ€™t see clearly with their eyes, often due to the growth in their heads. You wonโ€™t see them fighting other fish for food because they arenโ€™t equipped to compete.

    However, Ranchus do enjoy foraging for food. Make sure not to choose aggressive fishes as their tank mates if you donโ€™t want your goldfish to struggle for survival and fail. They get along pretty well with other similarly morphed goldfish. You can feel free to house them together in an aquarium. Rest assured, they will not transform your tank into the Colosseum and fight each other to death!

    How Much Do They Cost?

    The price may also vary depending on factors like the size, source, age, etc. In general, you should be able to get your hands on one of them for 5 to 25 dollars from any local pet store or local breeders. However Japanโ€™s โ€œKing of Goldfishโ€ has garnered a lot of popularity over the decades with its fancy appearance. Ranchus are prized by many aquarists all over the world, and they are definitely in demand.

    The most expensive Ranchus will be shipped directly from Japan or China. These are the most prized of all Ranchus and earn their moniker of “King of Goldfish. These types of Ranchus will easily commander prices of over $50 and can get much more expensive! Importing is how you obtain Ranchu Goldfish developed for competing in various Japanese shows. The video below by hendrink Nursalim shows a competition level Ranchu competing in Aquarama in 2011.

    Competition Ranchu Goldfish tend to have more defining features, and their price can range from hundreds to thousands of dollars! You donโ€™t need them unless youโ€™re in the Ranchu Goldfish Enthusiasts category and planning to win one of those competitions. You will have to spend quite some money taking care of these types of goldfish, which you should consider.

    No matter what type of fish you get, you must invest in creating and maintaining a proper diet plan for keeping them healthy. Rest assured, they are definitely worth the price.

    Tank Requirement

    If youโ€™re a goldfish enthusiast, chances are youโ€™ve already got a fancy goldfish aquarium. It might just be the perfect one for the king of goldfish from Japan! A Ranchu will flourish in a tank with slow-moving clean water, with suitable temperatures (65ยฐ. 72ยฐ). The recommended aquarium size for a single Ranchu is 20 to 30 gallons.

    The pH range must be within 6.5 to 7.5, while the hardness range should be around 5 to 19 dGH. Make sure to keep the levels of ammonia, and nitrite close to zero. Nitrate should be maintained below 40 PPM.

    Filtration and Water Quality

    There should be a functioning water filtration system for these fish. Given the delicate nature of this fish, You should elect at minimum a quality hang on the back filter for smaller aquariums.

    For larger fancy goldfish setups, you should consider an oversized canister filter to manage nitrates with a quality all-in-one biomedia like BioHome. Setting your filtration up like this ensure you have the most stable water quality to keep your Ranchus in excellent health.

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    Goldfish Tank Environment

    For creating a comfortable and natural environment, you should add a sand or fine gravel substrate. Ensure itโ€™s safe and doesnโ€™t pose any choking hazard because your fish will regularly dig around that part as they like foraging for food.

    Feel free to decorate your aquarium but refrain from using anything with sharp edges and protruding tips. If you are using artificial plants, consider silk plants. If you are using aquarium rocks, consider rocks without sharp edges or round ones. Driftwood should be avoided unless you are rounding out edges and ensuring there is plenty of open room to swim.

    You can add a variety of plants to make the environment appear more natural. Due to their digging habit, live plants may not always be suitable. Some great plants to consider for fancy goldfish would include:

    Make sure to anchor your plants to rocks instead of the substrate. The difficulty with plants is why many choose to go with artificial plants.

    The Ranchu has no dorsal fin. That is not decoration. It is a limitation. Swimming is harder, competing for food is harder, and keeping one with faster fish is a mistake.

    Tank Mates

    You must be careful in choosing suitable tank mates for the Ranchu Goldfish. They are best paired with other fancy goldfish such as:

    Final Words

    Ranchu goldfish stand out easily from other fish aided by their unique body. The wen on their head, combined with their round body, and arched backs make them look special. You will be impressed at how lovely they appear when swimming, thanks to the horizontally spreading double tail.

    If you take good care of these fish, your aquarium will be rightly populated with one of the fanciest goldfish you can find on the market. They will stay with you for a long time and keep you entertained! Ranchus keep a goldfish tank lively and entertaining. Consider adding these beautiful creatures! Leave a comment below if you think that we should add more information on how to care for them in this blog post.


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • BUCEPHALANDRA – Buying, planting and caring for your first One

    BUCEPHALANDRA – Buying, planting and caring for your first One

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Are you looking to buy your first Bucephalandra plant? Look no further! This blog post will show you how to find the best one for your needs and care instructions. You’ll learn about what they are, where to get them, what kind of light they need, and much more! We hope this helps make choosing a new plant that much easier.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Bucephalandra spp.
    Common Names Buce plant, Buceps
    Family Araceae
    Origin Borneo, Southeast Asia
    Skill Level Easy, moderate
    Lighting Low, 40 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, Midground
    Flow Rate Moderate, High
    Temperature Range 71-79ยฐF
    Height 1-10 inches
    pH Range 6.0 – 8.0
    Propagation Rhizome division
    Growth Rate Slow growth rate
    Feed Type Column or Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement No, but recommended

    Origins And Habitat

    In nature, the Bucephalandra species are mostly found growing densely over stones and aquarium rocks. They grow in and along streams and rivers in tropical forests in Borneo.

    In these habitats, the plants are flooded in the rainy season, growing submerged. In the dry season, water levels drop and they continue to grow emersed. Bucephalandra, or buce plants as they are often known, are great low-maintenance plants for beginners or more experienced aquarists. These tough little plants come in a huge range of cultivars, but all are small, slow-growing aquarium plants.

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Does Bucephalandra Look Like

    Bucephalandra species are broadleaf flowering plants that grow from a creeping rhizome that tend to run across rocks and driftwood. Although they are pretty new to the hobby, there are already a huge variety of cultivars and varieties available.

    The shape and color of the leaves vary, but the upper sides tend to be glossy, and sometimes even iridescent. The edges of the leaves in the different varieties is wavy, like as in ‘Wavy Green’ or flattened and leaf shape varies from teardrop-shaped, elongated, to rounded.

    The size of the leaves varies a lot as well, depending on the species or variety you have. They measure anything from less than a half an inch long in a type like ‘Black Tears’ to leaves of about 3 inches long in ‘Green Broad Leaf’.

    The undersides of the leaves is spotted in different colors and are often interestingly marked in red, yellow, or white. The tops of leaves can also have interesting white spotting. For many of these species, their new leaves may have strong coloration.

    These plants vary in size with some species staying lower than an inch in height, and others reaching over 2 feet. Most plants in the hobby measure between 1 and 10 inches tall.

    Placement And Lighting

    Being small rhizome plants, buce plants look great when grown rooted in the foreground or on hardscape elements in the midground of the planted aquarium. They are adapted to life in flowing water and this makes them an ideal choice for aquascapes with some current, like hillstream biotopes for example.

    Bucephalandra species grow from a creeping rhizome where branches readily emerge them. This new growth will be bigger than the original.

    Due to how their new growth and new leaves emerge, they should not be planted in the aquarium substrate. It is possible to grow these aquatic plants rooted, provided only the root system is covered by the gravel.

    These plants is grown attached to aquarium rocks or driftwood and will attach themselves better to surfaces that are heavily textured. Until they are properly attached, they is secured with thread or glue.

    Being a slow-growing broadleaf aquarium plant, the buce plant is vulnerable to algae growth on the leaves, which can happen quickly in a tank with strong planted aquarium lighting and unbalanced parameters. Buce plants are really easy to care for if grown under low light or shaded out by other aquarium plants or hardscape features.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Bucephalandra plants are suitable for most species only and community freshwater tropical aquariums. These are hardy plants that most fish will not damage or eat.

    Good Tank Mates

    Good fish species to keep with these aquatic plants include those that enjoy slightly cooler water with a good flow. Hillstream loaches for example may do well with this aquarium plant.

    That being said, Bucephalandra is quite an adaptable group and will survive in warmer conditions with a lower flow as well. As a plant with a low growth rate, buceps can easily be overtaken by algae.

    Grazers like Otocinclus catfish, Stiphodon gobies, and siamese algae eaters make great tank mates because they will actively clean the surfaces of the leaves. Inverts like Amano shrimp and nerite snails will also help to keep the leaves clean.

    Schooling fish like cherry barbs and cardinal tetra do an excellent job of contrasting the wavy green leaves of the buce plant.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Buce plants are pretty tough and hardy specimens in the aquarium. It is probably best to avoid keeping them with large fish like oscars that might disturb them, especially if you plan on growing them rooted.

    As a plant that does well in aquariums with a good flow, avoid keeping fish like fancy goldfish or bettas that are not strong swimmers. Buceps are one of the best options for African cichlid and goldfish tanks but this doesn’t mean they’re completely immune to these plant-eaters.

    If you do want to grow buceps in a cichlid or goldfish tank, be sure to plant a few plants (the more the better), to spread out the damage and give the plants a chance to recover.

    Feeding and Fertilization

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Being a slow-growing plant with a low light demand, bucephalandras don’t necessarily need to be fed to maintain good health. Unused nutrients in the water will tend to promote algae growth that the plants may not be able to compete with.

    If you wish to grow these plants under more high-tech conditions with stronger lighting and CO2 injection, light feeding in the water column will help these aquatic plants grow faster in these conditions. An all in one aquarium fertilizer like APT Complete is great to use for feeding plants in aquascapes.

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    If planted in coarse gravel with good water flow to the roots, water column feeding will still provide all the nutrients they need.

    Types

    There are at least 30 different plant species in the Bucephalandra genus and the taxonomy of plants in the aquarium trade is quite confused. Most buce plant species do not have common names.

    There are a huge variety of trade names out there, but the following types are all popular choices:

    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Brownie Ghost’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Brownie Brown’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Titania’
    • Bucephalandra pygmaea ‘Green Wavy’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Kedagang’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Black Pearl’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Green Tears’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Super Blue’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Deep Blue’
    • Bucephalandra sp. ‘Rainbow Marble’

    There are a large variety of Buce Plants available. They are best illustrated by a video. This one by iConic Scape is a great slide show of over 20 varieties to see!

    Bucephalandra grows slowly. If you expect fast results, you will pull it out before it establishes. Patience is the only care requirement most guides forget to mention.

    Bucephalandra Care Guide

    Bucephalandra is similar in its care requirements to the more familiar anubias species. These are not difficult plants to grow, provided you maintain suitable and stable water parameters.

    Even under ideal conditions, buce plants are always going to be slow-growing. This makes for a great, low-maintenance option for a planted tank.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Bucephalandras are not that particular about water parameters, as long as they are stable. Ideal water temperatures are on the cooler side, but these aquatic plants do well in standard tropical freshwater aquarium temperatures between 71-79ยฐF. If you live in a colder climate, consider purchasing a quality aquarium heater.

    If you do run a CO2 system in your tank, begin injection 2 hours before your lights start up and keep your carbon dioxide levels below 30ppm.

    Tank size is not very important because these plants don’t get very big and have very slow growth rate. For this reason, bucephalandra plants are great low-maintenance options for nano tanks of about 5 gallons or more, provided you can keep your water parameters stable.

    Water Quality

    Although bucephalandra plants are easy to keep, they do require good water quality. A buce plant grown in an uncycled, or overstocked aquarium with unstable water parameters is likely to melt.

    There is loads of information out there on the aquarium nitrogen cycle, but without going into too much detail, a cycled aquarium is one that has an established colony of beneficial bacteria living especially inside the media of its filter.

    These good bacteria convert the ammonia in fish waste and uneaten fish food into nitrites and then nitrates which are much safer for plant and animal life. It takes a little while to get a new aquarium cycled, which is why you shouldn’t stock an uncycled aquarium for at least a month or so.

    Filtration

    Adequate filtration is key to success when growing any bucephalandra species. Good filtration will provide the plants with the flow they prefer as well as assist in maintaining good water quality by maintaining a healthy colony of beneficial bacteria.

    Use a filter that creates a good amount of movement in the tank, and processes the volume of your tank at least 4-6 times in an hour. For mass planted tanks, it is best to consider a high end canister filter as plant waste will produce ammonia and added waste matter that a good filter will pick up.

    Flow

    Bucephalandras are naturally adapted to grow along streams and rivers with a decent amount of flow, particularly in the rainy season. For this reason, it is best to keep them in an environment with a good flow rate to mimic these conditions. The lily pipe is a great way to distribute flow across the aquarium.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Water Conditions

    Buceps are sensitive to poor water quality and changing water parameters. For this reason, testing water conditions regularly is definitely recommended when growing these aquarium plants.

    Pick up some liquid aquarium test kits and start by testing your water before buying the plant. In this way, you can figure out whether your parameters are good.

    Record the test results and compare them with your findings the next time you test. By doing this, you’ll be able to figure out how stable your water conditions are.

    Retest your water parameters before and after a water change to see how much the conditions are changing and decide whether your water changes are frequent and or large enough. Remember, the smaller your aquarium and the more heavily stocked it is, the more water you’re going to need to change.    

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    Buceps grow really well on hardscape elements like aquarium driftwood or lava rock. You can use super glue or fishing wire to attach them.

    The best types of super glue for the job are the gel types. Another simple trick is to use a rubber band to secure the plant until it has grown roots around the feature.

    If you want to grow them rooted, coarse aquarium soil or gravel is recommended. You might want to anchor the plant to the substrate for a few weeks until the roots have had the chance to become established.

    Temporarily anchoring the plant will be especially helpful if you have a good water flow in your aquascape. If the conditions in your aquarium are suitable, the roots will grow pretty fast.

    How To Propagate

    Since bucephalandras grow from a creeping rhizome, the easiest way to propagate new plants is to divide the rhizome. It is important that each portion of the rhizome is large enough, and a good minimum size to aim for is about 1.5 inches.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health

    Even though these plants have a slow growth rate, healthy specimens should produce a new leaf structure or two every few weeks or so. Another sign of a healthy buce plant is flower production. The flowers are pretty short-lived when grown submerged, however.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Unhealthy plants will be limp and the leaves will have a light brown coloration. These plants will melt back or become covered in algae.  

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    Algae growth on the leaves is a common problem in poor water quality because bucephalandra is a slow growth rate plant and their wavy green leaves have large surfaces.

    If your plants have lost the fight against algae issues, it is possible to treat them using a product like Seachem Excel or hydrogen peroxide, but remember that some algae in the aquarium is needed if you have algae-eating livestock. Prevention is definitely better than cure though so be sure to figure out the cause and take steps to avoid the algae growing back.

    Another common problem with buceps is melt. This often happens just after planting or when moving plants between tanks with different parameters. Melt is less likely to be a problem in tanks with good water flow and added CO2.

    Other common causes for melt are unstable water conditions in overstocked, overfed, or uncycled aquariums. Probably the easiest cause of melt to treat is when they are rooted with the rhizome buried. Adjust the position of these plants so that the creeping rhizome is clear of the substrate and prune out any melting growth before it fouls your water.

    Plant Pests

    The safest way to add a new bucephalandra to your aquascape without introducing any unwelcome pests is to purchase tissue culture specimens. These plants are grown in a sterile, pest-free lab environment.

    If you get a potted plant from your local fish store or a cutting from a friend, be sure to inspect the plant carefully for any snails that is hiding on its leaves. Remove anything you find and also prune out any unhealthy or badly damaged leaves to avoid them melting in your tank.

    Dipping your buceps in a very mild bleach solution (20 parts water: 1 part bleach) is another option, just take care not to overdo it and burn your plants. Take care to rinse the plant very well after treatment.

    Where To Buy

    Although Bucephalanda is a fairly new plant to the hobby, it is quite widely available. You are not going to find them in chain pet stores as a result. They are only going to be available at local fish stores and online. Often the plants you buy at your local fish store have been grown emersed and do not look quite like they will when established underwater, making selecting a specific type or species even more confusing. Buying online ensure you get the correct plant variety, and when it comes to online, there is one place I highly recommend.

    That would be a store with the very name Buce in it, Buceplant. Their business was founded by a local aquascaping who loves Buce plants so much that he created a store so there is a reliable source of high quality and less expensive Bucephalandra. If you are shopping online, this is the destination to get these wonderful plants.


    Bucephalandra

    Bucephalandra is a slow-growing plant that’s perfect for anyone looking to grow their first aquatic plant. They are great for attaching to hardscape


    Click For Best Price


    Shop Tissue Culture

    Wherever you end up buying your buceps, make sure you get them from a reputable dealer because the collection and trade of wild buce plant species is a risk to wild populations and their habitat.

    FAQS

    Are they easy to grow?

    The bucephalandra plant species are easy to grow in low-tech aquariums. The best colors and plant growth rate is achieved with stronger light and CO2 injection and this is where more experience is required to limit algae growth on the leaves.

    Can they grow on wood?

    Bucephalandra is an ideal plant for growing on wood. You will need to attach the rhizome to the wood in some way until the roots have become established enough to keep the aquarium plant anchored.

    Where do they grow?

    In nature, the Bucephalandra species grow in and along shallow streams and rivers in the tropical jungle environments of Borneo, Southeast Asia.

    Does Bucephalandra need substrate?

    Bucephalandra does not need substrate and grows well as an epiphyte. These plants is attached to the hardscape using various methods and will gather their nutrients from the water column.

    Why is this so expensive?

    The price of bucephalandra plants be pretty high because they are such slow-growing plants, meaning growers can’t produce a lot of plants for the market. Fortunately, authorities have also clamped down on illegal harvesting of wild plants from their natural environment, which is eliminating cheap illegal exports.

    Can they grow emersed?

    Buce plant species grow well emersed and are great plants for humid ripariums and paludariums as well. Buceps may take slightly different growth forms when grown emersed and they tend to flower better.

    Closing Thoughts

    As far as low-maintenance aquarium plants go, bucephalandra is pretty hard to beat. They might cost a little more, but these plants offer a great alternative to the similar but more common Anubias nana.

    We hope this blog post has helped you learn more about the Bucephalandra plant, and that it’s made your decision to purchase one a little bit easier. If there are any questions we didn’t answer or if something isn’t clear enough for you, please leave us a comment below! Thank you so much for reading our blog – we appreciate your feedback and time!


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Anubias Nana Care guide: The Beginner’s Aquarium Plant

    Anubias Nana Care guide: The Beginner’s Aquarium Plant

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Anubias nana grows on rocks, driftwood, and patience. Bury the rhizome and you have killed it.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Table of Contents

    The Anubias Nana is sold as an easy plant, but easy does not mean neglect-proof. Wrong lighting, wrong substrate, or wrong CO2 approach will turn this plant into a melting mess. After growing aquarium plants for 25 years, I have learned what actually works and what the packaging never tells you.

    Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

    This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

    A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

    Anubias nana, or to use its more technical name, Anubias barteri var. nana has to be one of the best freshwater plants for beginners. These great-looking plants for freshwater aquariums are really forgiving and is grown without powerful light or CO2 injection.

    If you’re new to the hobby of keeping plants alive in an aquarium, you may be unsure of which plant is best for your first. If so, Anubias Nana is just the ticket! These hardy little plants are perfect for beginners because they tolerate a wide range of water conditions and grow slowly enough that it’s easy to keep up with their maintenance. This article will teach you everything you need to know about caring for these beautiful aquatic plants.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Anubias Nana

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Most guides treat anubias nana like a plug-and-play plant. Just drop it in and it grows. In my experience, that oversimplification leads to a lot of failed attempts. Lighting matters more than people think, and placement is critical. I see people making the same mistakes over and over: burying the rhizome, placing it in too much direct light, or expecting instant growth. Getting the basics right from the start saves you weeks of watching your plant slowly deteriorate. Even easy plants need consistent care and some baseline nutrition.

    The Reality of Growing Anubias Nana

    Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.

    Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.

    Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.

    Expert Take

    If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.

    A Brief Overview Of Anubias nana

    Scientific NameAnubias barteri var. nana
    Common NamesDwarf anubias, nana anubias, petite anubias
    Family NameAraceae
    OriginCameroon, equatorial West Africa
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingLow to medium light, 40-125 PAR (Umols)
    Tank PlacementForeground or Midground
    Flow RateLow, Moderate
    Temperature Range72 – 82 F
    Height6 inches
    pH Range6-7.5
    PropagationRhizome division
    Growth RateSlow
    Feed TypeColumn or Root Feeder
    CO2 RequirementNo

    Classification

    DivisionMagnoliophyta
    ClassLiliopsida
    OrderAlismatales
    FamilyAraceae
    GenusAnubias
    SpeciesA. Barteri var. nana (Engler, 1899)

    Origins And Habitat of Anubias Nana

    This plant was originally collected from around riverbanks near Victoria, Cameroon in West Africa. In nature, it grows wild as a semiaquatic marsh plant. It rarely grows completely submerged in the wild. It is known as an African with the moniker of “the plastic plant that grows” due to it’s dark green leaves that can make it look plastic with its leathery shine.

    What Do They Look Like?

    How Does Anubias Nana Look Like

    Anubias barteri var. nana is a highly attractive little plant that grows from a thick horizontal rhizome. They are the smallest variety in the Anubias genus that are commonly kept in the aquarium trade.

    The plants are firm in texture and the leaves, stems, and rhizome are deep green in color. This is a compact, stocky plant with rounded, horizontally arranged leaves that measure about 1.5-3.5 inches long and about 1.5 inches across. The leaves have secondary veins that are laid out diagonally from the center vein.

    Anubias nana is one of the few aquarium plants that can flower fully submerged underwater. The flowers are not particularly impressive but are definitely interesting in the aquascape. You can see an example of the flower from this video by Aquascaping the World By BM.

    Placement And Lighting

    Anubias nana is a small plant that looks great in the foreground or attached to hardscape features in the midground of the aquascape. They work best in nature-style aquascapes and look especially good when anchored to driftwood in heavily structured, tropical biotopes.

    This anubias grows from a thick rhizome that should not be covered by the substrate. The roots growing from the rhizome can, however, be set into the substrate where they will develop and anchor the plant.

    With smaller plants, this is done by carefully pushing the plant’s rhizome into the substrate until the roots are buried and then pulling the rhizome back out slowly and carefully until just the root system are covered and the rhizome is clear.

    These dwarf anubias plants can also feed from the water column, and they look great when tied to driftwood or rocks with fishing line, cotton thread, or even glued with a product like Seachem Flourish glue.

    Some growers even leave these plants to float, although they are not ideal for this. At least in my experience, when not anchored they will drift around until becoming trapped against another plant, often upside-down.

    Anubias Nana is a slow grower in a planted tank, with relatively large leaves, and low to medium light requirements. When grown under strong lighting, they will develop problems with algae growth on the leaves.

    Is the Anubias Nana Right for You?

    Before you add a anubias nana to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You want a relatively low-maintenance plant that adds natural texture to your aquascape.
    • Your lighting is at least moderate. Even easy plants need consistent light to grow well.
    • You’re willing to provide basic nutrients, whether through root tabs, liquid fertilizer, or a nutrient-rich substrate.
    • You have a stable tank. Newly cycled tanks with fluctuating parameters can cause melting and die-off.
    • You’re not relying on this plant to solve an algae problem. Plants help with algae over time, but they’re not a quick fix.
    • You’re prepared to trim and maintain. Most aquarium plants grow continuously and need periodic pruning.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the anubias nana is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    These plants work great with all sorts of freshwater aquarium fish. Because of their tough leaves, they are one of the few species for the planted tank that most herbivorous fish won’t feed on.

    Good Tank Mates

    Rasboras

    Algae eaters like otos (Otocinclus spp.), siamese algae eaters, and neon blue gobies (Stiphodon spp.) are excellent fish to keep with this plant. These little freshwater fish will actively feed directly from the leaves of the plant. They also do well with any schooling fish like tetras, cherry barbs, and Harlequin Rasboras.

    This is one of the few plants that is safely grown with goldfish and African cichlids. Even though these plants will prefer lower pH, they will do fine in the alkaline water in African cichlid tanks.

    Tank Mates To Avoid

    Even though this is one of the best plants for destructive freshwater aquarium fish species, you will still be taking a risk by growing this Anubias with fish like silver dollars and oscars. In an oscar tank, you might have better results by growing this plant attached to the hardscape rather than near the soil.

    Feeding And Fertilization

    Being a slow-growing plant that will grow in a low tech/low energy tank, fertilizing with aquarium fertilizers isn’t necessary or recommended. If you are keeping fish with your plants, the nutrients in their food and waste are likely to be more than enough for these tough little plants.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Fertilizing these plants is not necessary and might do more harm than good. The only time feeding is a good idea is if you keep these plants in a heavily planted tank with other fast-growing column feeders like stem plants and floating plants that will use up the nutrients and out-compete any algae growth in the system. In situations like this, rooted anubias plants might well benefit from a substrate fertilizer. It would also benefit the plants in general to use an active substrate as this releases nutrients for the plants and will soak in nutrients as bacterial colonies establish themselves.

    Different Types

    The plant commonly called Anubias nana is actually a variety of the species Anubias barteri. These plants are, therefore, most correctly calledby the name Anubias barteri var. nana.

    There are a few other varieties of this species, all of which grow to a larger size and height than nana. Without going into too much detail, Author Christel Kasselmann, in his book, Aquarium Plants describes the following other closely related anubias barteri species:

    • Anubias barteri var. barteri ‘coffeefolia’
    • Anubias barteri var. angustifolia
    • Anubias barteri var. caladiifolia
    • Anubias barteri var. glabra
    • Anubias Nana Petite

    One very popular form of Anubias barteri species in the planted tank hobby is Anubias barteri var. Nana ‘petite’. These plants are most often called Anubias nana petite, or sometimes Anubias nana bonsai, and are great little low-maintenance plants. The care of this petite anubias is the same as that of regular Anubias nana except theyare a smaller plant, maxing out at a size of about 2 inches tall.

    Care

    Anubias barteri var. nana is one of the easiest aquarium plants to care for because of its slow growth rate and low nutrient, low to medium light requirement, and carbon dioxide requirements. In time, you might want to give these plants a trim or remove leaves that have become covered in algae growth but they are very low-maintenance. Anubias nana can live for many years, and will survive all the mistakes of people that are new to the hobby.

    Anubiarium 9L v2

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Anubias nana and nana petite are hardy in quite a wide range of water parameters. A stable temperature of anything between 72 and 82ยฐF is preferred and pH values of 6.0 – 7.5 are ideal. These plants do, however, will do better in mildly acidic conditions. Water hardness does not seem to have much of an effect on these adaptable plants.

    Water Quality

    Being a robust variety, Anubias nana is more tolerant of changes in water quality than many other freshwater plants. That being said, the aquarist should always strive to keep the conditions in their tank as stable as possible. Maintaining a stable water temperature is also important, so be sure to use an aquarium heater and monitor its performance with a thermometer or aquarium controller.

    Filtration

    Filtration is extremely important in the planted tank. These plants don’t have any specific filtration needs, but without a good filter, your chances of developing problems with algae are much higher.

    So be sure to run a good quality filter in your tank and if you keep fish or other animals, be sure to stock appropriately. The general advice when selecting a filter is to choose a model with a flow rate that is 4-6 times the volume of your aquarium. In a causally planted tank, a hang-on filter will suffice.

    However, in a mass planted tank, one needs to factor in the waste many aquatic plants produce. This added bioload demands for a higher end filtration unit. I highly recommended canister filters for mass planted and high end aquascaped tanks.

    Flow

    Anubias nana and Anubias nana petite are robust and compact little plants that will do well in a wide range of flow strengths. They is difficult to keep anchored when growing rooted, and a strong flow will probably frustrate you by uprooting your plants. In tanks with faster currents, use a hardscape feature like a rock to protect the plant from any strong and direct flow. The use of a lily pipe will also allow you to use a higher flow filter while spreading the flow throughout the tank.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    While easy to care for, this plant still requires a good home that is well maintenance. Let’s talk about needs.

    Testing Water Conditions

    Before buying any new plant, start by testing your water conditions to see if your setup is suitable for that species. You can do this at home quite easily using liquid water test kits.

    Water quality can change or fluctuate, especially in tanks with high fish stocking rates. These changes happen especially quickly in small aquariums so be sure to test regularly.

    A good time to perform these tests is once every one to two weeks when you’re doing your regular partial water changes. The results will indicate whether your water changes are being done often enough. You will want to test for:

    • Ammonia
    • Nitrite
    • Nitrate
    • pH
    • Water Hardness

    If any of these are off, consider remedying the situation before you plant other aquarium plants.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium Tank

    This aquarium plant doesn’t have any really specific tank requirements. They stay small and compact so they are a great choice for smaller tanks, anywhere from about 5 gallons and up. Anubias nana petite could even be grown in smaller aquariums, provided you keep a close eye on your water quality.

    A great way to grow this species is by attaching its rhizome to driftwood, rocks, or even an aquarium decoration, so look out for a nice fish-safe piece to use for this purpose.

    This variety also grows well when rooted, as long as you keep the rhizome uncovered. The root system will hold well in a fine medium like sand, although a nutrient-rich medium like an aquarium soil will help these plants grow stronger.

    How To Propagate

    Although they are very slow-growing plants, Anubias nana propagation is easy, even for aquarists with low experience levels. To create new plants, one simply has to divide a mature rhizome. The rhizome is easy to spot, it’s the stem-like structure that the roots grow from.

    This structure grows parallel to the ground and, if grown in the right conditions, will grow in length, developing new stems in time. By taking a section of the rhizome with its own leaves and stems, you can easily grow a new plant.  

    A great video by The Small Scape has one of the best in-depth videos on how to perform rhizome division on these little guys. Check it out below and give her a sub if you like it!

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health

    Healthy Anubias nana and nana petite plants will produce new leaves regularly. This is a slow process, but young new growth will have a bright green color, unlike the dark green of mature foliage. Plants with a few small, light-colored leaves are in good health.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Avoid plants that are covered in algae, have a damaged rhizome without roots or have full-grown but discolored leaves.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    The most common health issue in Anubias nana and Anubias nana petite is algae infestation. The most common cause of this condition is excessively strong lighting and too many nutrients in the water.

    This problem mostly affects plants that have been recently added to the aquarium and have not established strong and healthy root systems and adapted to your water parameters. The best thing to do in this case is to shade these plants by growing them under a floating species or consider adjusting your light strength.  

    Anubias nana plants that have their rhizome planted below the surface of the soil will melt and slowly die. Reposition these plants so that the rhizome is clear of the soil to solve this problem.

    Some growers may be concerned about the slow growth of these plants, but rest assured, this is completely normal and healthy for the species.

    Plant Pests

    The easiest way to start out with pest-free plants, and avoid introducing unwanted hitch-hikers to your tank is to grow tissue culture plants that are propagated under strict lab conditions.

    When growing regular potted Anubias nana plants, be sure to inspect them for snails or any other organisms and remove anything you find. Go ahead and remove any dead or diseased plant parts while you’re at it and then wash the plants off carefully before adding them to your aquascape.

    You can go one step further and give your plants a bleach dip to kill off anything you might have missed. Use a very weak solution of 20 parts water to 1 part bleach and dip the plant in the mixture for a minute or two. After dipping your plant, be sure to wash it off very carefully to avoid adding bleach to your aquarium.

    Where To Buy

    Anubius nana and Anubias nana petite are very popular and common aquarium plants. They are easy to find in pet stores, local pet stores, or they is bought online.

    If purchasing online, I would highly recommend purchasing your plants from BucePlant. They offer the highly quality aquatic plants you can find online and offer an amazing selection of both potted and tissue culture plants. Local fish stores that specialize in aquascaping are difficult to find. Give BucePlant a chance if you have no store local to you!

    Great Beginner Plant
    Anubias Nana

    Hardy, forgiving and easy to grow. The Anubias Nana is your ticket to the incredible hobby that is aquascaping!

    Click For Best Price Buy Tissue Culture

    How the Anubias Nana Compares to Similar Species

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the anubias nana stacks up against some common alternatives.

    Anubias Nana vs. Java Fern: Both are rhizome plants that attach to hardscape rather than being planted in substrate, and both are excellent beginner plants. The main difference is growth pattern. Anubias nana stays compact and low, making it ideal for foreground and midground placement. Java fern grows taller with longer fronds, making it better suited for background or mid-tank positions. Both tolerate low light and don’t need CO2, but anubias is more prone to algae growth on its slow-growing leaves. Check out our Java Fern care guide for a detailed breakdown.

    What It Is Actually Like Growing Anubias Nana

    The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

    Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

    Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

    In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

    FAQS

    Does they need soil?

    Anubias nana plants do not need soil. These plants is grown quite easily without soil by attaching them to a hardscape feature like driftwood, rocks, or even an ornament.

    Can you plant them petite?

    Just like its larger form, Anubias nana petite is planted, as long as its rhizome is kept clear of the substrate.

    Does they need CO2?

    Of course, all plants need CO2 injection for rapid and healthy growth. When it comes to Anubias nana petite, however, the background carbon dioxide levels in most home aquariums is enough for healthy growth.

    Injecting CO2 could well result in faster, healthier growth. The challenge is to match the lighting and feeding in a way that will not result in unwanted algae growth.

    Do they need fertilizer?

    These plants don’t need any fertilizer. If you keep fish in your tank, the nutrients in their waste and feed should be more than enough for this species.

    Can you plant them in substrate?

    This species is planted in the soil and will grow very well if set up this way. The key to success with this method is to make sure that rhizomes are not covered by the soil.

    Roots from the rhizome will grow into the soil in time, and it is best to anchor the plant with a few stones or something similar until it is secure.

    What Questions Do You Have?

    Want the easiest plant? Get java fern or anubias. Want a carpet? Get dwarf sagittaria. Want the best balance of easy and impressive? This plant delivers.

    Anubias Nana is a wonderful plant for beginners because it tolerates a wide range of water conditions and grows slowly so that maintenance is easy. If you’re new to the hobby of keeping plants alive in an aquarium, this article should have helped teach you everything you need to know about caring for these beautiful aquatic plants. Leave us your thoughts on whether or not this was helpful by leaving a comment below! We’d love to hear from you!

  • Caring For Your Black Moor Goldfish (With Pictures)

    Caring For Your Black Moor Goldfish (With Pictures)

    Black Moor Goldfish have telescope eyes that make them nearly blind in competitive feeding situations. They are slow, clumsy, and get outcompeted by every other goldfish variety.

    Never mix black moors with single-tail goldfish. The moors will lose every feeding competition.

    Have you just purchased your first Black Moor Goldfish? Congratulations on being a new fish parent and thank you for taking the time to research how to care for them. You will find that not only are they easy to take care of, but their beautiful colors make them a great addition to any home or office.

    Of all the fancy goldfish which have attracted the interest of the home aquariums of beginner aquarists, one the most distinct aquarium fish is undoubtedly the black moor goldfish. Named for its beautiful black coloring, this is a peaceful type of goldfish that is very easy and rewarding to care for. What distinguishes the black moor from other fancy goldfish types are, mainly, its “dragon” eyes. As one of the telescope goldfish, these fish have eyes with a comic and endearing bulging appearance.

    It’s important to follow the proper care specifications in order to ensure a long and healthy life for your new friends: hereโ€™s my comprehensive guide to black moor goldfish care.

    A Brief Overview of the Black Moor Goldfish

    Scientific Name Carassius Auratus
    Common Names Black Moor Goldfish, Dragon Eye Goldfish, Black Demekin, Black Peony Goldfish, Telescope Goldfish
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin China and Japan
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Moderately Active
    Lifespan 10. 15 years
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level All levels, mainly mid level
    Minimum Tank Size 20 gallon aquarium
    Temperature Range 65ยบF to 72ยบF
    KH 4-20
    pH Range 6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water Flow Moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Lay eggs seasonally, is hand spawned
    Difficulty to Breed Moderate
    Compatibility Peaceful community species, best with other Fancy Goldfish
    OK for Planted Tanks? Mostly No

    Origins and Habitat

    Like all goldfish carassius auratus, the lineage of the black moor has its beginnings in the Prussian carp, a wild carp specimen found in parts of North America, Europe and most notably, Asia. The first incidence of carp being caught and domesticated, however, occurred in China.

    The black moor goldfish is a result of selective fish breeding done in China and Japan to obtain and retain its defining genetic abnormality: telescope eyes. This was done by confining fish with such eyes to a single pond, leading to a larger spawn. The unqiue black coloring and long tail fins of the black moor were thus bred into permanence.

    What Does they Look Like?

    What Does A Black Moor Goldfish Look Like

    With bulging eyes and a metallic coat of black scales, the black moor goldfish has an easily recognizable appearance:

    Body

    Like many other fancy goldfish, the body of the black moor goldfish is rotund, with an egg shape. This is offset by their beautiful tail and anal fins, which are long, graceful and flowing. Meanwhile, their pectoral and dorsal fins tend to be larger.

    Color

    The black moor goldfish gets its name from the distinct, fully black coloration of its scales. However, this beautiful metallic black color is not seen until they get older. As a juvenile, the scales of a black moor goldfish have a color more accurately described as dark bronze. Beyond maturity, when it begins aging, a black moorโ€™s fins may turn grayish, but don’t begrudge them for not staying true to their name.

    Eyes

    And now for the best part of the black moor goldfish: its large, bulging eyes, which are quite fittingly called telescope eyes (and alternatively, dragon eyes). As they age, black moor goldfish’s eyes tend to get bigger. So, if you look into a tank full of these fish, you can easily pick out the eldest among them by the size of his or her eyes. The bulging eyes phenomenon is a result of intraocular pressure, which causes the fancy goldfish to, ironically, have very weak eyesight. 

    Gender Differences

    Telling the sex of a black moor is decidedly difficult, although males do tend to be smaller than females. During mating season, however, the fins of a male black moor goldfish is covered with breeding tubercles, which look like little white bumps.

    HOW BIG ARE THEY?

    The size of a black moor goldfish changes quite noticeably as he or she grows. The average size of a black moor is about 6 inches. At their largest, they might measure up to 8 inches.

    HOW LONG DO THEY LIVE?

    Like most other goldfish varieties, these fish have a life expectancy between 10 and 15 years. However, if you manage to provide superior water quality and diligently keep up tank maintenance, you might even see your black moors make into 20 years of age.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    Whether you put your black moors in with other tank mates or in a community tank, you will be pleased by their friendly and peaceful temperament. That said, the best course of action is to put these slow swimmers in with a shoal of other black moors.

    Not only that, but their low activity level also makes black moor goldfish care easy: these fancy goldfish like to simply swim back and forth across their tank without bothering any other fish. You’ll often find them swimming leisurely in the middle of the tank, although you shouldn’t be surprised to see your fish concealing him or herself in the decorations or in the substrate.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Choose the members of your aquarium carefully. As these fish are fragile and peaceful goldfish carassius auratus, their chosen companions should have a similar disposition and set of traits. This is a very important aspect of black moor goldfish care as it ensures that your fish wonโ€™t be bullied or injured. This is not only limited to fin nipping but extends to their eyes, which are easily injured.

    Good Tank Mates

    For non-fish the best tankmates would be:

    Many fish available will need different water temperature requirements. Peaceful and schooling fish like minnows your Goldfish may try to eat, but they are are fast enough to get away and not be stressed out in larger tanks. You will need to worry about feeding though as fancy goldfish are slow swimmers and eaters.

    Black Moors have terrible eyesight. Tank decorations with sharp edges become hazards. The tank you build for this fish has to account for what it cannot see.

    The best tank mates for a black moor goldfish would be other goldfish of the fancy variety, such as:

    Pearscale Goldfish

    Inverts like freshwater shrimp are going to be a bad idea. While shrimp is fast enough to get away, the stress of being constantly chased could make them jump out of the tank. Snails would be a better choice with nerite and the mystery variety being known to coexist peacefully with your black moors.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    You should at all costs avoid pairing your black moor with territorial or aggressive goldfish varieties. Such types of fish are known to nip at the long flowing fins of black moors, which can cause fin rot. It can also be quite stressful for black moors to try and avoid aggressive tank mates, which in turn might affect their health and lifespan. Such tankmates that do not pair well with Goldfish would be Cichlids.

    What Do Carassius Auratus Eat?

    Most goldfish varieties are omnivorous fish, which means they is fed food of the meat as well as plant variety. Although this extends your range of options, you should also be warned that, as fish with big and hungry appetites, your black moors are liable to start feeding on anything you put in your aquarium.

    Dry pellets and flakes can easily be fed to a black moor. That said, you should also aim to create variety in their diet to ensure good health. You can feed them vegetables such as broccoli, spinach and lettuce. Make sure to stream your veggies before introducing as this sterilizes them. Specialized frozen foods are highly recommended as they offer the best nutritional value you can get in the hobby. High protein foods help to bring out the black coloration of these fish quicker.

    What About Live Foods?

    As carnivores, black moors take well to certain easily digestible freeze-dried live foods or frozen live foods, such as blackworms, bloodworms, brine shrimp, tubifex worms, and daphnia (brine shrimp has the lowest nutritional value of all I mentioned). Before feeding freeze-dried foods to your black moors, however, you should soak the food in some aquarium water first to facilitate a smoother digestion process. Soaking with supplements like Vita-Chem will help boost the nutritional content of the food.

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    How Much and How Often to Feed

    Most goldfish carassis auratus varieties should be given food several times a day (though most fish keepers can only do twice a day), and the same is true for the black moor goldfish carassius auratus. But keeping their big appetite in mind, itโ€™s also important not to overfeed your black moors. Their internal organs are squeezed into a compact body, which can lead to fatal digestive problems such as constipation, when the fish is given excessive food.

    Moreover, be sure to eliminate any leftover food so as to keep the water unpolluted and safe for your fish to live and thrive in. Using a rule of thumb of only feeding what your fish can eat in 2 minutes is a good guideline to work with.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Black moor goldfish in aquarium

    Remember, goldfish are descended from carps. As such, itโ€™s best to try to ensure a tank environment that closely mimics the natural habitat of a carb. Black moors have weak eyesight and love to feed on almost any small object they find, which is important to keep in mind. Murky, moderately brackish water with a gravel substrate should be a good fit for your black moors.

    Furthermore, considering that they are weak swimmers, the optimal tank shape for them is long rather than tall. This gives them more swimming space. If it’s tall, it is harder for black moors to reach any food on the surface.

    Minimum Tank Size Considerations

    Despite their relatively small size, these fish do take up a lot of space due to their long and large fins. So, for a single black moor goldfish, you should provide at least a 20 gallon aquarium. Then, for every new fish you add, you should add another 10 gallons.

    Substrate

    Care should be taken when selecting substrates for goldfish. Goldfish will regularly dig in the substrate and with their large mouths, it is easy for them to accidentally shallow gravel. I would recommend a sandy substrate for goldfish as this allows them to forgage freely and split out any sand bits as they dig around the tank.

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    Decor

    Despite their slow swimming speed, black moors are big eaters who are prone to nibbling on almost anything they find. So, itโ€™s best to avoid putting a lot of tank dรฉcor in their aquarium. They might just start chewing on it. That said, if you must include decor, ensure that they have smooth surfaces and donโ€™t have any sharp or protruding edges. Itโ€™s best to steer clear of driftwood and sharp rocks.

    Plants

    As they are known diggers, donโ€™t be surprised if your fish start digging up any live plants youโ€™ve planted in their substrate. The best way to work around their digging nature is to attach plants to aquarium rocks. You need to be selective on your plants though, as goldfish will eat many live plants and their temperature requirements are not compatible with most plants.

    The safest plants to use on goldfish would be:

    All the plants above are beginner aquarium plants, so you can still maintain a easy to keep tank! You can also use artifical plants. Silk plants are better to use than plastic ones as they will lack the sharp edges that will harm your fish.

    Water Quality (Care)

    Here are the specifics of maintaining optimal water quality.

    Filtration

    It’s recommended to include an efficient filter in your black moor’s tank. This ensures that the water stays clear, which is important since black moors produce a lot of waste. For smaller tanks a quality hang on filter like an aquaclear or seachem tidal would work well.

    For larger tanks, it would be best to consider using a well made canister filter. Goldfish are bulky and large. This size makes them hard on your bioload. A canister filter is designed to handle large bioloads. With goldfish tanks, I would recommend loading up on a quality biological media that can process nitrates. I feel Biohome Ultimate Filter Media is the best complete filtration media when it comes to high bio-load non-planted tanks.

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    Water Parameters

    As black moors are an artificially bred species, there is no exact habitat you can replicate for them. However, we do know that their black color appears more quickly in low water temperatures. So donโ€™t set the tank up in any room that get hot, or near any heat source (e.g. A fireplace), as this will affect water temperatures. They also benefit from neutral pH levels. Let’s look at some specifics of water conditions for these freshwater fish:

    • Water Temperature: 65.0 to 72.0ยฐ F  / 18.3 to 22.2ยฐ C
    • pH Range: 6.0 – 7.5
    • Lighting: Strong lighting is required to help your ocularly impaired fish.
    • Hardness Range: 5 – 19 dGH
    • Salinity: Below 10%; specific gravity should be below 1.002
    • Water Movement: Moderate

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Itโ€™s of utmost importance to ensure clean water conditions for your fish as it directly affects their health. About 20% of the water should be changed on a monthly basis to keep phosphate and nitrate levels at a healthy level. What’s more, it’s recommended to make use of a gravel siphon to remove elements such as organic debris and sludge.

    Test Water Conditions

    If youโ€™re committed to ensuring a long life for your fish, you should invest in an aquarium test kit. It allows you to determine whether the mentioned water parameters are being maintained properly in your black moorโ€™s tank. 

    How to Breed

    It’s relatively easy to breed black moors on your own in a tank. To get your black moors to mate and start laying eggs, create the following conditions.

    Breeding Tank Setup

    Start by moving your pair of breeding black moors to a separate tank (video by All Blue Amante Del Pesce). You should aim to ensure that there are adequate surfaces such as plants and decor for the female to lay eggs when it’s time.

    Breeding Temperature

    Once your fish are in their tank, start by slowly lowering the temperature to 60ยฐ F (15.5ยฐ C). Then, gradually increase the water temperature by 3ยฐ daily until your fish look ready to mate. You should also make daily water changes of 20%. This will bring on spawning season.

    After Breeding

    Once your female fish lays her eggs, the male will go on to fertilize them. This process involves a courtship ritual in which the male chases the female around for some time. This might take several hours and you might see as many as 10,000 eggs in the tank by the end of it. Once the eggs appear, swiftly remove the pair back into their original tank as they will otherwise eat the eggs.

    Feeding Your Fry

    In a week, you’ll have black moor fancy goldfish babies. Congrats, you’ve unlocked a new level in fish keeping! Keep feeding them foods high in protein and iron until they take on an adult size. In about two months, you can start feeding them the same food you give to their parents.

    Health and Disease

    Concerned about the health of your freshwater fish? Hereโ€™s what you need to know if you have a sick fish.

    Signs of Health

    If your fancy goldfish are swimming about normally, that’s a good indicator of health. They should be regularly eating and should sign good colors and believing should not be labored.

    Signs of Ill Health

    Here are the three main indicators of poor health in your black moor goldfish that anyone practicing fish keeping should know:

    • Their appearance. Note whether there is any dull coloration, color changes, or colorless patches. If you notice any significant color changes, your black moors is suffering from velvet disease or skin disease.
    • Their movements. Healthy goldfish swim and bob along the middle of the tank. So if you see that they are sitting at the bottom of the tank or floating on the surface, they is afflicted by swim bladder.
    • Their appetite. If you notice that your goldfish is not eating properly, they is suffering from ich, which occurs when there is a parasitic protozoan in the body of the fish. In advanced cases, you might also notice white spots, rapid breathing, and isolation.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Like all common freshwater fish, black moors are at risk of being inflicted by ich, fin rot, fungus, and flukes. With their long fins, they are particularly likely to catch fin rot. However, this is prevented if you maintain a high quality of water in their tank.

    If you suspect a swim bladder (symptoms discussed above), check out my freshwater fish diseases post. There is a great video and explanation on treatment and alternative long-term solutions like fabricated “wheel chairs” that hobbyists have used to save their fish.

    As a telescopic goldfish breed with poor eyesight, black moors are prone to eye diseases caused by fungi and bacteria (particularly if their tank is not clean and well-maintained). When handling your black moors, always be very cautious so as not to accidentally injure or damage their eyes.

    It’s important to keep ammonia and nitrate levels low in your black moor’s goldfish tank. To ensure this, you should aim to replace about 25% of the water volume on a weekly basis. You need to increase the volume based on your test results. Regularly testing your water with an aquarium test kit will help you adjust your water change routine to manage nitrates.

    Where to Buy

    Black moor goldfish are quite inexpensive and are commonly found. You can find them in chain pet stores. However, I would recommend you either purchase at a specialty local fish store or if you cannot find a good one in your area, looking into an online fish store.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Are they hard to take care of?

    No, theyโ€™re relatively low-maintenance: as long as you feed them in a timely manner, maintain tank conditions and remember to conduct regular water changes, youโ€™ll be good to go!

    How long do they live?

    Like the majority of goldfish species, these dragon fish live up to 10 to 15 years.

    Can they live in a 3-gallon tank?

    No. A black moor needs at least a 20 gallon aquarium. And, for every new fish you introduce, you should add 10 gallons of water to the aquarium.

    Their small size at pet stores can fool a novice fish keeper into thinking that itโ€™s okay to place your black moor goldfish in a small aquarium or fish bowl, but they need a lot of space to swim slowly about and they get large. With their bulky size, goldfish produce a lot of waste; so the smaller the aquarium, the more quickly the water will go toxic and endanger the life of your fish.

    Are they aggressive?

    No. On the contrary, black moors are some of the most peaceful species of goldfish youโ€™ll find, which makes them agreeable tank mates like many other goldfish species. Their physical limitations (i.e. Poor eyesight and heavy body) also make it difficult for a black moor to be aggressive.

    Closing Thoughts

    This fascinating fish might make it seem like they’re difficult to care for, but a species like the black moor goldfish makes it obvious that that’s a misconception. As long as you can commit to ensure optimal tank standards, and donโ€™t place them with any aggressive fish species, your gentle and beautiful black moors will stay by your side for at least 10 years! I hope youโ€™ve found this guide helpful in understanding black moor goldfish care. Your feedback would be appreciated, so please leave a comment below!


    ๐Ÿ“˜ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Freshwater Fish Guide. Your ultimate resource for freshwater species, care tips, tank setup, and more.

  • Ludwigia Repens Plant Care: A Guide to Growth and Maintenance

    Ludwigia Repens Plant Care: A Guide to Growth and Maintenance

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Healthy plants grow. If yours is not growing, something fundamental is off.

    This plant thrives when given consistent conditions over weeks and months. Quick fixes do not work in planted tanks. Patience and consistency are the real requirements.

    A well-grown aquarium plant does more for water quality than any filter media you can buy.

    Looking for an easy to care for red plant? Ludwigia repens may for you then. Reds are a major challenge for beginner planted tank owners due to their more complex care over green aquatic plants. However, this plant bucks the trend with its forgiving nature. Ludwigia repens, or the red leaf ludwigia is a great beginner plant that is grown under a wide range of different lighting conditions, and with or without CO2 injection. This is one of the best red plants for beginners to start out with. Read on to learn everything you need to know about growing the red leaf ludwigia.

    What It Is Actually Like Growing Ludwigia Repens Plant

    The first two weeks after planting are ugly. Emersed-grown leaves melt, new growth starts slow, and your tank looks worse before it looks better. This is normal. Do not rip out the plant and start over.

    Once established, this plant grows. You will be trimming it regularly, replanting cuttings, and giving away excess. The transition from fragile newcomer to aggressive grower happens faster than you expect.

    Algae will try to grow on the leaves. Healthy, fast-growing plants outcompete algae naturally. Slow-growing or struggling plants get covered in it. The plant’s health and algae presence are directly related.

    In the right conditions, aquarium plants produce visible oxygen bubbles called pearling. Watching tiny bubbles stream from the leaves during peak lighting is one of the most rewarding sights in planted tanks.

    Species Overview

    Scientific Name Ludwigia repens
    Common Names Red leaf ludwigia, red repens, creeping primrose-willow, water primrose
    Family Onagraceae
    Origin United States of America, Mexico (North and Central America)
    Skill Level Easy
    Lighting Moderate, but grows best at 100-200 PAR (Umols)
    Tank Placement Mid ground & Background
    Flow Rate Low, Moderate
    Temperature Range 72 – 82ยฐF
    Height 8 – 20 inches
    pH Range 6.5 – 7.5
    Proprogation Stem cuttings
    Growth Rate Fast
    Feed Type Column and Root Feeder
    Co2 Requirement No

    Origins And Habitat

    Ludwigia repens is an amphibious flowering plant from the United States and Mexico in North and Central America. In the wild, it is found growing in ditches, ponds, and along sandy and muddy stream banks.

    What Does They Look Like?

    Ludwigia Repens Stems

    Ludwigia repens is a stunning red stem plant with foliage color that varies from dark green to deep red. Overall color depends a lot on growing conditions, but the leaves on these aquatic plants are mostly green to brownish red.

    Color will vary according to the strength of the lighting the plants receive and also the variety of creeping primrose willow you have. These aquatic plants will be greener in low-light tank conditions becoming redder under strong light.

    This effect can often be seen where lower leaves remain an olive-green color while leaves towards the top of the tank have a red tint. This beautiful color makes this an ideal specimen plant that captures your attention.

    This is an upright but narrow plant, that reaches heights of about 20 inches and grows 2-3 inches across. It has oppositely arranged oval leaves.

    Placement And Lighting

    Being a fairly tall plant, Ludwigia repens is best grown in the mid ground to background of planted tanks. Although these plants is grown under pretty low light, they will tend to drop some leaves (especially at the bottom of the stem) under these conditions.

    This is a versatile plant that works great in a wide range of aquascapes. They work particularly well as a background plant in nature-style biotopes but also in Dutch Aquascape style planted tanks.

    Moderate to strong planted tank lighting will bring out the best colors in this plant and ensure fast and vigorous growth.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Ludwigia repens works great in most tropical community tanks where peaceful fish species are kept. Although not ideal, it is a fast-growing species and might even survive being fed on occasionally.

    Good Tank Mates

    Good tank mates for this plant include:

    The Reality of Growing Ludwigia Repens Plant

    Melting after purchase is normal. Most aquarium plants go through a transition period where emersed-grown leaves die off and submersed growth takes over. This is not a sign of failure. It is the plant adapting. Do not pull it out or move it during this phase.

    Lighting is not one-size-fits-all. Too little light and the plant grows leggy or stops entirely. Too much light without CO2 supplementation causes algae explosions. Match your lighting to your CO2 and fertilization strategy.

    Ludwigia Repens stays green without strong light. It only turns red when you push the intensity and nutrients. If your Ludwigia is green and you wanted red, the fix is more light. Period.

    Nutrient deficiencies show up in the leaves. Yellow leaves mean iron or nitrogen deficiency. Holes mean potassium deficiency. Black spots mean phosphate issues. Learning to read your plants saves you from guessing.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Cranking up the light intensity without adding CO2 or fertilizers. High light without nutrients does not grow plants faster. It grows algae faster. Balance your light, CO2, and nutrients together or keep all three low.

    Expert Take

    If your plant is not growing, check your lighting duration and nutrient levels before changing anything else. Nine times out of ten, the problem is one of those two factors.

    Basically, any non-herbivorous, tropical freshwater fish that does not disturb the substrate too much will work well with Ludwigia repens, provided they share the same parameter ranges.

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Fantail Goldfish Swimming

    Avoid keeping fish like silver dollars, goldfish, and Buenos Aires tetras which will feed on this and other aquarium plants in your fish tank. Large, aggressive species like Oscars are likely to damage these delicate plants and are not recommended as fish tank mates.

    Feeding and Fertilization

    Although not considered a heavy feeder, this plant, like all red species, needs enough iron to maintain healthy growth. A supplement like Seachem Flourish Iron added in small amounts on a weekly basis will provide for these needs.

    Ludwigia repens is both a root and water column feeding plant that should be grown in a good quality aqua soil for best results. These aquatic plants will also thrive in dirt substrates capped with gravel.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    It is important to remember that a plant’s nutrient needs has a lot to do with how fast it is growing. For example, a plant that is grown under bright light, with a long photoperiod, and added carbon dioxide will naturally need a steady supply of nutrients to keep up with the fast growth it is like to achieve.

    In low-tech environments, especially where fish are kept, established red leaf ludwigias will need very little in the way of supplementary feeding., a good quality aqua soil will provide all the nutrients these aquatic plants need to thrive. In a high tech environment, the growth of the aquatic plant will accelerate, requiring more nutrients. When it comes to aquarium plant fertilizers, I feel no one does it better than APT Complete. It’s designed for Dutch aquascapers, which makes it perfect for a red plant like this.

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    Types

    Ludwigia repens comes in a variety of subtypes. Here are a few of the more popular variants you will find in stores:

    • Ludwigia repens ‘Rubin’ is a popular variety with a rich red color. To get the most out of this form, you will need bright lighting and CO2 injection in your aquarium. The result is a real eye-catching specimen plant with a compact growth form.
    • Ludwigia repens ‘Mini Super Red’ is a spectacular compact form with a deep red color, just like its name suggests. These plants do best in hi-tech setups.
    • Ludwigia repens ‘Mesakana’ is an orange to red form with larger, more rounded leaves than regular L. Repens. These plants require better lighting than other varieties as well but are otherwise just as easy to grow.

    Care Requirements

    This is a fast-growing stem plant that benefits from being pruned regularly. Trimming encourages a denser growth form, and pruned plants will also develop rooted nodes faster.

    Being an upright, narrow growing aquatic plant, it is best to plant Ludwigia repens in groupings to create a dense stand that will create a more dramatic effect in the aquascape. A bunch of stems growing together will also provide more structure and shelter for livestock like shrimp and fish.

    Don’t worry if you only have a few stems to start out with, they are easily propagated and you can develop a group fairly quickly. As it does in nature, this plant will grow emersed in shallow tanks if left untrimmed.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Red leaf ludwigia repens grows best in slightly acidic water but will survive in neutral to slightly alkaline environments as well. Soft water is preferred but these are hardy plants and will tolerate hard water.

    This aquarium plant does best with a growth temperature of 75-79ยฐF but will grow in much cooler environments, just at a slower rate. Although a CO2 system is not strictly necessary, it is advised, particularly when growing these plants under the recommended lighting intensity.

    If you are equipped for it, aim for a CO2 injection rate of not more than 30ppm and time your CO2 injection to begin 2 hours before your photoperiod begins in the morning.

    Water Quality

    Ludwigia repens is a pretty undemanding plant to grow, but it doesn’t appreciate unstable water conditions. When grown in poor quality water, these aquarium plants are likely to melt, and decaying plant material in your fish tank can result in even worse conditions.

    To prevent this, stay on top of your regular maintenance routine by performing regular partial water changes. This is especially important in smaller aquariums where fish and other livestock are kept. Remember, the smaller an aquarium is, the faster the water quality can swing.

    Use a water conditioner like Seachem prime when adding new water to your aquarium to neutralize harmful chemicals like chlorine in tap water.

    Filtration

    All planted tanks should have a good filtration system in place to maintain stable and healthy water conditions. These aquatic plants don’t have any special filtration requirements but should be grown at a reasonable distance from your filter’s uptake and outflow to prevent any mechanical damage to the plants.

    Plants in general have the potential to generate more ammonia than fish do in mass plantings. If you are planting a heavily planted tank, you should consider a canister filter so you have proper filtration to handle the added bioload from plant waste in the aquarium.

    Flow

    Being a pretty delicate plant, strong flow is not recommended for these plants. They will show some nice movement in a tank with some current or if grown just ahead of a gentle spray-bar type outflow. Take care not to focus the outflow of your filter directly on these plants as they will tend to fold right over in a strong current.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Water Conditions

    It is vitally important to test your water quality parameters regularly. Start by testing your water before introducing L. Repens to make sure that your parameters are suitable for the plant.

    After that, test your water before each water change to determine how stable your water conditions are. Various aquarium test kits are available that you can use at home to test pH, hardness, ammonia, nitrate, and nitrite levels in the water.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium

    Red leaf ludwigia repens reaches a height of about 20 inches and might require frequent trimming in shallow tanks. For this reason, medium to large aquariums are best, unless you enjoy growing emersed species of course. A minimum tank size of around 10 gallons or so is recommended.

    A good quality aquarium substrate is best, although organic dirt substrates capped in gravel will work well too.

    Only finely textured, sand substrates should be avoided because this plant’s roots will not develop strongly or be able to feed well. Fine, compacted substrates can even suffocate the roots.

    How To Propagate

    Red leaf ludwigia repens is easily propagated in the planted aquarium. Simply take a cutting from a stem that holds a few healthy leaves.

    Remove the lower leaves at the node because this is where new roots will develop. Often, however, roots and new stems will develop at nodes, making these the ideal cuttings to take.

    Then simply plant your cutting into the substrate using your aquascaping tweezers. In nature, this species will flower and drop seeds when grown emersed.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health

    Ludwigia repens is a naturally soft and somewhat fragile species. Healthy plants will have some red coloration and intact leaves when bought. Healthy aquarium plants should also be developing new growth at the nodes in the form of roots and stems.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    If possible, avoid plants that show signs of damaged stems, excessive melt, and decaying leaves.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    It is common for red leaf ludwigia repens to melt back when first planted in your aquarium. The plants are grown in very different environments and parameters before you buy them and there is a natural adjustment period.

    If this happens, don’t panic, the plants will recover to establish healthy root systems and grow back stronger. Be sure to remove any dead or dying plant matter before it can foul up your water though.

    Plant Pests

    Unfortunately, there’s always a chance of introducing unwanted pests when adding new plants to the aquarium. The easiest way to avoid this from the start is to grow tissue culture plants that have been grown under carefully controlled laboratory conditions.

    Tissue cultures aren’t quite as hardy as regularly grown stock so be sure you have your water parameters where they need to be before introducing them to the system. They also require more aquarium fertilizer to start since they lack the root system that steam cuttings may have.

    When introducing regularly grown ludwigias, start by giving the plants a good inspection. Remove any unhealthy-looking leaves or stems and look out for snails while you’re at it.

    To be extra-safe, you might want to consider giving your plants a bleach dip in a very mild solution (20 parts water: 1 part bleach) to kill off any pests. Ludwigia repens are delicate plants, however, so don’t go much over a minute in the dip and rinse them off thoroughly before introducing them to your aquascape.

    How To Plant

    A how to on planting the Ludwigia Repens is best served with a video. This is a straight to the point video by Otter Creek Aquatics and shows you how to maximize your purchase by spliting up the stems into individual pieces when planting.

    Where To Buy

    Ludwigia is a popular and common aquarium plant that is available from local fish stores and online fish stores. I personally recommend purchasing your live plants online from BucePlant. They offer both stem and tissue culture Ludwigia Repens.

    My Pick


    Ludwigia Repens

    Buceplant offers both stem and tissue culture Ludwigia Repens at great prices. A great beginner red plant to try!


    Buy Stem Plants


    Buy Tissue Culture

    FAQS

    Do they need CO2?

    Ludwigia repens does not strictly require CO2 for healthy growth. That being said, these plants will definitely benefit from the addition of CO2.

    How fast do they grow?

    The rate of growth in this species will vary according to parameters like temperature, nutrient availability, and water temperature. In most tropical fish tanks, however, these are fast-growing stem plants that will need to be trimmed from time to time.

    How do you plant these in gravel?

    Ludwigia is quite a delicate plant and should be planted carefully in coarse, gravel substrate to avoid damaging its root system. They are fast-growing plants and will recover well after an initial melt, however. Create a depression in your substrate using your finger or your aquascaping tweezers, place your plant in the depression, root carefully, and then cover lightly with the gravel.

    Can they grow floating?

    These plants can grow floating, and this one possible way of propagating new cuttings until they’ve developed a root structure. There are much better-looking floating plants though, so you’ll probably want to grow them rooted in the substrate.

    Can they grow in cold water?

    Ludwigia repens is suitable for use in cool-water aquariums and will survive in pretty cold water, although you can expect the plant to have a much slower growth rate in cold conditions.

    Closing Thoughts

    Ludwigia repens is a great choice for aquarists looking for a stem plant to add colors to the mid-ground or background of their planted tanks. These plants are pretty beginner-friendly but will do well in high-tech setups with CO2 injections and offer something for aquarium plant growers at all levels.


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    Pearlscale Goldfish Care Guide: The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    The Pearlscale Goldfish is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

    A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

    Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

    A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

    Table of Contents

    Pearlscale goldfish are one of the most distinctive fancy varieties you’ll encounter. Those raised, dome-shaped scales genuinely do look like pearls, and the round, almost spherical body is unlike any other goldfish. I’ve covered dozens of goldfish types on our YouTube channel over the years, and the pearlscale is always one that surprises people who haven’t seen it before. That said, after 25 years in this hobby I want to be upfront: that beautiful round body comes with real care considerations. Pearlscales are prone to swim bladder issues, especially when overfed or kept on a poor diet. They’re also slow swimmers that absolutely cannot share a tank with single-tailed goldfish varieties. This guide covers everything you need to keep pearlscales healthy long-term.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Pearlscale Goldfish The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs

    The biggest mistake I see with pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needss is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

    The Reality of Keeping Pearlscale Goldfish

    Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

    Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

    They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

    Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

    Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

    Expert Take

    The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

    Species Overview

    Scientific NameCarassius Auratus
    Common NamesGolfball pearlscale, pearlscale goldfish, ping-pong goldfish
    FamilyCyprinidae
    OriginChina
    DietOmnivore
    Care LevelEasy
    ActivityModerately Active
    Lifespan5 to 10 Years
    TemperamentPeaceful
    Tank LevelAll levels
    Minimum Tank Size20 Gallons
    Water Temperature Range65ยฐF to 75ยฐF
    KH4-20
    pH Range6.5 to 7.5
    Filtration/Water FlowModerate
    Water TypeFreshwater
    BreedingEgg layers, is bred in both small and large groups, is hand spawned
    Difficulty to BreedModerate
    CompatibilityPeaceful community species, best with other Fancy Goldfish
    OK for Planted Tanks?Mostly No

    Classification

    Taxonomic RankClassification
    Common NamePearlscale Goldfish
    Scientific NameCarassius auratus
    OrderCypriniformes
    FamilyCyprinidae
    GenusCarassius
    SpeciesC. Auratus

    Origins and Habitat

    Originating in the early 20th century, the pearlscale goldfish is a relatively new addition to the family of fancy goldfish. Unlike the slender common goldfish, the Chinshurin (as is their Japanese name) have an adorable rounded body, which increases their popularity.

    Most species of goldfish are bred in China or Japan. However, modern day pearlscale goldfish are bred and developed mainly in England. But like most fancy goldfish, ping-pong goldfish are bred and kept all over the world. Because there are specially bred goldfish, there are no Pearlscale fish in existence in the wild.

    What Does the Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like?

    What Does A Pearlscale Goldfish Look Like

    There are many ways to tell goldfish pearlscale apart from others:

    Body

    One of the first things youโ€™ll notice when you lay your eyes on a pearlscale goldfish is its egg shaped round belly (many also compare it to a golf ball), which is offset especially by its compact and stubby body. In fact, this roundness is what inspires the โ€œping-pong goldfishโ€ moniker.

    Accompanying the short and rounded body are beautiful fins that flow ethereally in the water. They have a single dorsal fin, while the rest of the fins are paired. Of these, the twin tailed fin is the most remarkable, as it has a forked appearance.

    The wen fish or crown pearlscale goldfish (named for the crown atop their head) have a slightly different appearance, with large and distinct bubbles on their heads. These is given the name of high-headed or hooded pearlscales.

    Scales

    What truly sets the pearlscale goldfish apart are its distinct scales, which are nacreous (reflective and translucent tissue). These scales are caused by calcium carbonate deposits due to a genetic mutation. Arranged in visually pleasing rows, these scales have a shiny and luminescent appearance that have a pearl like appearance (and hence the name!), and a bead-like texture.

    You wonโ€™t see these pretty nacreous scales until your goldfish are older, however. To the untrained eye, young fish of this goldfish species is difficult to tell apart from the common goldfish.

    Color

    The golfball pearlscale goldfish comes in a wide variety of colors and patterns. Most commonly found are solid colored specimens, which is covered in white, red, blue or black. Calico and chocolate brown varieties are also found of this beautiful freshwater pearlscale fish. There are many types of pearlscale goldfish available. The video below from Molly Babe Aquatics gives a great example of the variety out there.

    How Big are They?

    On average, a pearlscale goldfish will measure between 6 and 8 inches in length, and on rare occasions, 10 inches. One easy way to imagine their size is to think of the shape and size of oranges.ย 

    How Long do they Live?

    The average lifespan of a pearlscale is between 5 and 10 years, which is less than their non-fancy varieties due to their genetic makeup. Rarely, some goldfish pearlscale species live up to 15 years. Itโ€™s important to note the health problems that some pearlscale goldfish is exposed to in suboptimal living conditions. Thatโ€™s why itโ€™s important to know how to set up their tanks for maximum life and health.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    One of the reasons why pearlscales are so popular as pets is their docile and peaceful temperament. Furthermore, theyโ€™re slow moving, slow swimmers. Because of this, they are relatively low-maintenance, and they donโ€™t exhibit aggression.

    Pearlscale goldfish are quite easy-going compared to other freshwater fish, preferring to spend their days swimming about slowly (unlike, for example, wakin goldfish who are known for fast swimming). However, just because they’re not fast swimmers doesnโ€™t mean they have a low activity level: sometimes, they like to explore and play, so itโ€™s a good idea to put them in a sizeable goldfish only tank.

    What are Good Tank Mates?

    Thinking of putting some pearlscale goldfish into an existing aquarium? Consider what fish make good tank mates for them, and which ones donโ€™t:

    Good Tank Mates

    If you have a peaceful community aquarium, great news! Some pearlscale goldfish will make a wonderful addition to it, as they can cohabitate easily with other fancy goldfish and docile freshwater fish. Here are some good tank mates for pearlscale goldfish:

    Other than fish, certain snail species also go well with pearlscales, such as mystery and nerite snails.

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Pond Goldfish For Koi

    As mentioned before, goldfish pearlscales are slow swimmers. As such, itโ€™s important to keep them away from fast swimming and aggressive fish, because they might end up nipping at the fins of your pearlscales and out competing them for food. Accordingly, here are some fish species you should avoid putting in with your pearlscales:

    Furthermore, note that many tropical fish should not share the same aquarium as your pearlscales, as they have different temperature requirements. Even if no fin-nipping occurs with tank mates, feeding time will be difficult for your pearlscale goldfish if the tank mates are fast.

    What do They Eat?

    As omnivores who thrive on a healthy diet, pearscale goldfish will readily accept most food that you give them. The best kind of readymade food to give your pearlscales is calcium-fortified dry pellets and dry flakes, but only after itโ€™s been soaked. This is because they have a sensitive digestive system and are prone to developing swim bladder disease.

    Pearlscales love vegetables, such as cucumbers, frozen peas (as well as deshelled peas), and lettuce. These are great for pearlscales as they keep intestinal problems (such as constipation) at bay. Make sure to steam vegetables before feeding them to fish to sterilize them

    Furthermore, limit protein for your pearlscales; it should make up only about 30% of their diet. Excessive protein can cause health complications for pearlscales.

    What About Live Foods?

    You can include live foods in your pearlscale’s diet every now and again. Brine shrimp, Daphnia, blood worms, blackworms, or Tubifex worms are good live food options for your pearlscale goldfish. Keep in mind the risks of diseases when feeding live food. The safest way to feed live food is to cultivate your own, but this is not for everyone.

    How Much and How Often to Feed

    A balanced and healthy diet for a pearlscale goldfish will be one made up of a mix of high quality frozen, pellets, and flakes which are given to them at least twice a day. Only feed what your fish can eat in 2 minutes to avoid any excess food in the tank.

    Tank Requirements

    Fish Tank Size

    The recommended minimum size for a pearlscale goldfish aquarium is 20 gallons. Even better if you can make it 30.

    This is because, although theyโ€™re weak swimmers and slower swimmers than other similar goldfish species, pearlscales do like to swim around their aquarium. More importantly, they need a lot of oxygen and produce a lot of waste. A general rule of thumb is to add 10 gallons of tank capacity for every one fancy goldfish after the first 30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    Here are some particulars on setting up a freshwater aquarium for your pearlscale.

    Substrate

    A sandy substrate is the best option if you want to create a natural environment for your pearlscales. This is to mimic their natural environment as pearlscales enjoy digging through their substrate. If you go with gravel, itโ€™s important to ensure that youโ€™re getting larger and smoother gravel substrate. Otherwise, they might accidentally swallow some. 

    Decor

    One of the defining characteristics of pearlscales is that they have very delicate and breakable scales. This is why itโ€™s important to avoid putting them in a crowded aquarium. If your existing tank has many decorations and aquarium rocks with sharp edges (or any other sharp objects), itโ€™s best not to put your pearlscales in it as they might accidentally bump into them and have their scales fall off.

    If this happens, the fish will not regain its original โ€œpearlโ€ scales; instead, regular scales will grow in their place (although some aquarists say that additional calcium helps here, this is undocumented). That said, aquarium driftwood and plants are okay. You can smooth out driftwood with sandpaper and cut off sharp edges.

    Plants

    Plants are a great addition to a pearlscale goldfish aquarium, because these fancy goldfish love darting in between and playing with live plants. In fact, a natural pond-like habitat is very good for pearlscales. If you want to put live plants with your pearlscales, go with cold-hardy and beginner plants like Java fern, Hornwort, Anubias and Anacharis. Goldfish in general do not have an appetite for Java Fern and Anubias, but every individual fish is different.

    Editor’s Choice
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    Pearscale Goldfish Care (Water Quality)

    Nutrition, clean water, and stress management are the keys to proper Pearlscale goldfish care. Let’s focus on filtration and maintenance.

    Filtration

    In the case of pearlscales, biological filtration is best as it allows for a high level of water quality, which keeps them safe from common aliments and stress.

    With a decent filtration system, both your fishโ€™s waste and leftover food will be dealt with. This is particularly important because pearlscales are slow eaters and will take their time to get to their food. A hang on back filter at minimum are best to use given the high bioload these fish add to an aquarium.

    A canister filter should be considered for larger fancy goldfish tanks. Their large mature bulky mature sizes and general foraging habits generate a lot of waste particles in the water that need to be filtered out. A large filter like a canister will ensure mechanical filtration is top tier and nutrients is processed appropriately.

    In fish only fancy goldfish tank, a complete media like biohome is an ideal solution for keeping nitrates down when pairing with a canister. Biohome is amazing for high load fish only tanks – such as a large fancy goldfish tank.

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    Editor’s Choice!

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    Water Parameters

    As the species of pearlscale goldfish isnโ€™t naturally occurring, there is no natural habitat you can emulate for them in your tank. However, their preferences are well known. They can withstand a wide temperature range, and do well in cold water and neutral pH levels. Watch out for frequently fluctuating pH levels as this can cause disease and ill health. Nitrates is also a common issue with fancy goldfish tanks. Regularly testing your water will assist in determine the water change volume and frequency.

    Here are some specifics:

    • Water Temperature: 65.0 to 75.0ยฐ F
    • pH Range: 6.0-7.5
    • Hardness Range: 4 – 20 KH
    • Salinity: Below 10% (with a specific gravity below 1.002)
    • Water Movement: Moderate
    • Nitrates: Keep below 40

    Aquarium Maintenance

    The tank you place your pearlscale goldfish in should be well-maintained if you want them to stay healthy. Scheduled weekly water changes of 1/4 to 1/3 are required as pearlscales produce a lot of waste. As mentioned earlier, you can also choose to include snails in the tank as they make short work of algae and help to keep the tank clean. Since goldfish tanks require a lot of regular cleaning, an investment in a tool like a python cleaner can help save you time.

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    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Beyond providing a good filtration system for your pearlscale goldfishโ€™s tank, consider the following set-up requirements:

    Tank Size

    As you already know, at least 30 gallons is required for housing a pearlscale goldfish, with an additional 10 added for each new goldfish you introduce into the tank. This large amount of water is required so that the waste is diluted, and it lets you keep water changes scheduled to once a week.

    Tank Shape

    A large surface area is optimal for keeping fancy goldfish as it prevents an oxygen shortage. Remember, the tank shape determines the surface area; as such, itโ€™s best to go with an elongated tank as opposed to a tall one. If you want a round or oval tank for your goldfish, it should be narrow at the top and wide in the middle for maximum surface area.

    How to Breed

    In the right conditions, pearlscale goldfish can spawn easily and readily. They are egg layers who can breed in small groups as well as large ones.

    Breeding Conditions

    Start by providing a breeding tank that is at least 20 gallons. A few weeks before breeding, make it a point to separate the males and females as this will increase their interest to spawn. When you’re ready, release the males and females in at the same time. Avoid rough handling.

    Drop the temperature slowly to around 60ยฐF, then gradually warm it at 3ยฐF until spawning occurs., when the temperature is between 68ยฐ and 74ยฐF, spawning will begin. This is a good time to feed your pearlscales live food such as worms and brine shrimp. Try to feed at least thrice a day. As for water changes, you should aim to make partial changes of about 20% per day.

    How to Tell if Your Pearlscales Will Start Breeding

    As the tank temperature increases, the male pearlscale will chase the female around (not aggressively) for several days. Both males and females will have a vivid, more intense color.

    If you see a gyrating action in your freshwater fish, that means they’re spawning. The female will be pushed against any plants inside the aquarium during the process, which will cause tiny eggs to drop out, which can then be fertilized.

    Goldfish eggs

    The spawning process can last up to 3 hours and produce about 10,000 eggs. Once this is done, remove the goldfish from the breeding tank, because they will start trying to eat the eggs. In 4 to 7 days thereafter, you should have a brand new group of juvenile pearlscale goldfish.

    Health and Disease

    Signs of Health

    If your pearlscales have shiny scales and eyes, are swimming about their tank most of the day, and feed periodically throughout the day, you can safely assume that they’re healthy and happy. They should also retain their round body shape.

    Signs of Ill Health

    If your fancy goldfish seem lethargic, arenโ€™t eating much, have pale skin, are hollow-bellied, or have fraying fins or scale loss, that means their health or life expectancy is compromised. Hereโ€™s what is ailing them:

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    Pearlscale goldfish are prone to being afflicted by all common freshwater fish diseases, such as fin rot, ich, flukes and fungus.

    Because pearlscale goldfish have long and flowy fins, they are particularly prone to fin rot, which mainly occurs in poor quality water. So to prevent this, you should aim to provide high quality water for your goldfish.

    Swim bladder disease is another commonly occurring disease in pearlscale goldfish. This is due to the compactness of their intestinal tract, which is easily affected by taking in too much food or even air. I go over swim bladder, dropsy and other serious goldfish aliments in my freshwater fish diseases post.

    Where to Buy

    As a common fancy goldfish, pearlscales are readily available in most pet shops, both online and off. However, the finest pearlscales are imported from countries like China. It is best to work with a what you see is what you get (WYSIWYG) online fish store to get select varieties.

    Is the Pearlscale Goldfish The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs Right for You?

    Before you add a pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Pearlscale Goldfish The Fancy Variety With Unique Needss need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Pearlscale Goldfish The Fancy Variety With Unique Needs Compares to Similar Species

    Want a pond fish? Get comets or shubunkins. Want an indoor aquarium goldfish? Get fancies and plan for a 40-gallon minimum. Want a low-maintenance pet? Get a betta instead.

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the pearlscale goldfish the fancy variety with unique needs needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    After this post, you should have a better understanding of the care and maintenance required for pearlscale goldfish. If you’re interested in learning more about freshwater fish or if you’ve been considering getting one as your first pet, please leave me a comment below! I’m happy to answer any questions that may come up while reading this blog post.


  • A care and info guide on the Monte Carlo Plant

    A care and info guide on the Monte Carlo Plant

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    The micranthemum Monte Carlo plant is one of the most popular carpeting plants for moderately lit freshwater tropical aquascapes. These aquatic plants are great for beginners and they grow fast, creating a dense and beautiful bright green carpet. That isn’t all they is used for, however, these tiny plants is grown as epiphytes too. Grown this way, they make for an eye-catching cascading carpet over hardscape features like driftwood and rock.

    This blog post will teach you how to care for your Monte Carlo Plant while also providing information about where it comes from, what it looks like, and more. Let’s get started!

    A Brief Overview Of The Monte Carlo Plant

    Scientific Name Micranthemum tweediei
    Common Names Monte Carlo
    Family Scrophulariaceae
    Origin South America (Argentina)
    Skill Level Easy to Moderate
    Lighting Moderate 30-50 PAR (umols)
    Tank Placement Foreground, midground
    Flow Rate Low, Moderate
    Temperature Range 68-77ยฐ F
    Height 1-2 Inches
    pH Range 6-7.5
    Propagation Division
    Growth Rate Moderate, Fast
    Feed Type Column and Root Feeder
    CO2 Requirement Yes

    Origins And Habitat

    Micranthemum tweediei ‘Monte Carlo’ is a green freshwater plant from Argentina in South America. In nature, these aquatic plants are found in shallow freshwater systems like streams, lakes, and bogs that get plenty of sunlight.

    They are amphibious plants that is found growing underwater, on saturated ground, or growing emersed.

    What Does This Plant Look Like?

    How Does a Monte Carlo Plant Look Like

    Monte Carlo1 is a beautiful, light green-colored carpeting aquarium plant that grows as a dense, low, and spreading mound. Under good light, these aquarium plants spread laterally at a good rate, and don’t grow much taller than about 2 inches.

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo leaves are small and rounded and these plants have tiny roots. In appearance, this aquatic plant has a lot in common with another well-known carpeting plant, Dwarf Baby Tears.

    This aquatic plant works really well in Iwagumi and Dutch-style aquascapes but will suit any layout that demands for carpeting plants. With care and maintenance you can create foreground planted carpets that will be eye popping.

    Placement And Lighting

    Monte Carlo is most often grown as a carpet plant in the foreground and midground. The aquarium plant is pretty versatile, however, and works just as well if grown as an epiphyte.

    To grow this plant as an epiphyte, you can attach it to hardscape elements like driftwood, cave ornaments, or lava rock. If your hardscape element does not have suitable holes or cracks to hold the roots of this plant, you need to attach it using nylon thread or superglue.

    These aquarium plants need medium to high lighting to maintain a dense, low, and compact growth form. Plants grown under inadequate lighting will tend to grow tall and thin.

    Plants grown on hardscape features tend to be closer to the light source and therefore might do well under weaker light, but it’s always important to factor in the depth of the water.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo is great for community or species-only fish tanks. Especially where schooling fish are kept. Most species of tropical freshwater fish is kept with this aquarium plant, as long as they share the same water parameter needs. Some great smaller fish would include:

    Male Cherry Barb

    Fish Species To Avoid

    One of the greatest challenges to growing a beautiful carpet of Monte Carlo is getting the plants to stay put when you first plant them. Fish like corydoras catfish and Kuhli loaches that forage by sifting through the substrate can easily dislodge these plants before the carpet becomes well established.

    Monte Carlo carpets without CO2 in the right conditions. But right conditions means high light, nutrient-rich substrate, and patience. Skip any of those and the carpet never forms.

    Avoid growing this aquatic plant in goldfish tanks since this is a plant they will feed on. Other fish to avoid keeping with Monte Carlo are:

    Feeding A Plant (Fertilization)

    As an aquarium plant that gathers nutrients from both the substrate and the water column, Micranthemum Monte Carlo will benefit from a fertile growing medium as well as a liquid fertilizer. If grown in an inert substrate like gravel or sand, this excellent foreground plant will definitely benefit from the addition of root tabs.

    Plants grown on rocks and other hardscape features will need to get all the nutrients they need from the water column, making liquid fertilizer essential for good growth. For any carpeting and other heavy feeding plants, I recommend APT complete. It is the best all around liquid fertilizer on the market.

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    How Much And How Often To Feed

    How frequently you choose to feed this aquarium plant is going to depend on a couple of factors. Under high lighting and CO2, Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ will require a steady supply of nutrients to keep up with the fast growth that these conditions stimulate.

    This could mean daily to weekly doses of a supplement like Seachem flourish in the water column are needed. In tanks with only moderate lighting and a healthy stock of fish, you can get away with feeding once every week or two.

    CO2 Injection

    Monte Carlo, like all plants, needs light and carbon dioxide to grow. The background level of CO2 in aquariums is too low for this aquarium plant to develop into a tight, compact carpet. For this reason, CO2 injection is recommended for optimal growth.

    How Much CO2 Do You Need?

    The aquarist should aim to maintain dissolved CO2 levels of about 30ppm (parts per million) in their aquarium. This is the ‘sweet spot’ that results in optimal aquarium plant growth while remaining safe for fish and other livestock.

    Getting your CO2 levels to 30ppm can take a little fine-tuning, but with a bubble counter and drop checker, you should be able to get it dialed in. It takes a little while for dissolved CO2 levels to rise in the aquarium so start off slow. Keep an eye on the color of your drop checker and once it stays stable at the right levels, observe your bubble count.

    Whether you’re using a standard or an in-line diffuser, make sure you set your drop checker well away from the CO2 entering the tank for more accurate results. If you are looking for a combo package for a CO2 regulator. Check out this link.

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    How long Should You Run CO2?

    Plants can only grow effectively when they have access to enough CO2 and light. They use these energy sources at the same time so you only really need to run your pressurized CO2 system when the lights are on.

    It takes a little while for the CO2 in your aquarium to build up to that sweet spot of 30ppm, however, so ideally, you should be running your CO2 system on a separate timer that starts up about 2 hours before the lights go on. You can have your CO2 injection system shut down at the same time as the lights, or a little earlier because some CO2 will remain available in the system for a while.

    Plant Care

    Under good light and proper conditions, Micranthemum Monte Carlo grows pretty fast and is pretty invasive, which is great if you enjoy working on your aquascape, or maybe not that great if you’re looking for a low-maintenance option.

    This species also has a habit of crowding out other aquatic plants so if you’re looking for a mixed species carpet, this may take a bit of extra trimming on your part.

    Apart from trimming with a sharp pair of curved trimming scissors, it’s also possible to thin out your Monte Carlo carpet using a fine pair of aquascaping tweezers or pincettes. This is a delicate procedure though, the aquarist needs to take care not to uproot more of the aquarium plant than is necessary. Regular trimming is a must to keep the dense shape of this plant.

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    Planted Tank Conditions

    The Monte Carlo plant does best in freshwater tropical aquariums that are on the cooler side, say between 68-77ยฐ F. These plants have a pretty wide tolerance for water hardness.

    They need a decent amount of light, especially if you want a dense, low growing carpet in the foreground and midground of your aquascape. Although these plants is grown without added CO2, they will perform better if this is provided.

    Maintaining parameters

    Monte Carlo in Aquarium

    Being a dense carpeting aquarium plant, Micranthemum Monte Carlo will tend to capture fish waste and detritus and keep it trapped within its foliage (Picture Source). Although this can provide nutrients to the plant, it will result in ammonia spikes in time if left unmanaged.

    For this reason, a dense carpet of Monte Carlo is not advised in tanks with high stocking rates and a lot of waste. A good clean-up crew of small inverts like freshwater shrimp is also helpful in this regard.

    It is possible to vacuum over a Monte Carlo plant carpet to capture waste that has collected beneath it but special care should be taken to not uproot the plants in the process as they tend to have pretty week root systems. Some aquarists have had success by fitting a grid-like material over the end of their vacuum to help to prevent sucking up the plants.

    Water Quality

    Maintaining great water quality and tank conditions is important for all aquarium plants and animals, and Monte Carlo is no exception. In tanks with fish, a partial water change every week or two is recommended and this is a great time to test water parameters with aquarium test kits and give your plants a trim too.

    Be sure to use a water conditioner during water changes to neutralize harmful chemicals that may be present in your local tap water.

    Filtration

    It is best to use a filter with a pre-filter sponge over its inlet when growing fine aquarium plants like Monte Carlo. This is because trimmings or small plants that have come loose from the substrate can get sucked into your filter and cause blockages. Due to the nature of this plant, a high quality hang on the back filter or canister filter is recommended to keep the aquarium clear of plant and matter debris.

    Flow

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo has pretty small, fine roots that are easily loosened from the substrate. For this reason, direct, strong flow is a bad idea as it can dislodge your carpet.

    Some flow is important, however, as this ensures a good distribution of CO2 and nutrients throughout your tank and keeps waste particles from settling on your plants before they is processed in the filter. Grow this aquarium plant in a tank with a low to moderate flow for best results.

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Water Conditions

    Regular testing of water conditions should be part of your aquarium maintenance routine. You can use either strip tests or liquid tests, but be sure to keep an eye on parameters like ammonia and nitrites, particularly if you have livestock in your aquascape.

    Other important parameters to keep an eye on in the aquarium are pH, general hardness, and carbonate hardness. You should, of course, also have a thermometer and keep an eye on your water temperature regularly to alert you to a malfunctioning heater.

    How To Set Up Your Aquarium

    Monte Carlo is grown in a few different ways. These plants is started off using the dry-start method or simply planted into the substrate of an established aquascape using a pair of fine aquarium tweezers. The video below from WASABI describes how to plant and prep this plant.

    Use a good quality aqua-soil as your substrate, or if using an inert substrate, be sure to use root tabs from time to time to provide nutrients to the root zone. A third substrate option is to use a layer of an inert material like sand or gravel over a layer of nutrient-containing dirt.

    Monte Carlo plant roots will develop better in gravel than sand, although the plants is pretty easily dislodged from the substrate in a really coarse medium, so go for a substrate with a moderate texture.

    As a small, carpeting plant, this species is grown in just about any size aquarium, from just a few gallons and up.

    Although it is possible to grow this aquatic plant without added Co2, Monte Carlo will definitely perform better if this is provided.

    How To Propagate

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo spread quickly and is easily propagated by division, as long as the sections you take have both healthy leaves and roots.

    When planting out in your tank to create a carpet effect in your aquascape, simply break up a mass of Monte Carlo into sections of about half an inch or less across, each with its own roots, and then plant them in a grid pattern at a spacing of an inch or two apart. Although this looks pretty unnatural at first, the plants will spread quickly to fill the gaps and create a beautiful natural lawn-like effect.

    You will find that the plants come loose from the substrate very easily when you first plant them and this is pretty frustrating. One way to avoid this is to plant them a little deeper than you think they should go.

    With more of the plant beneath the surface of the substrate, they tend to sit a lot more firmly. Use a fine pair of tweezers or pincettes for this job and push each plant into the substrate at a 45ยฐ angle.

    If you’re still having trouble getting your plants anchored, consider keeping them in their pot and letting them spread out and root themselves naturally from a central point. The process will take a little longer but could save you some frustration.

    Health And Disease

    Signs Of Health in Plants

    Healthy Monte Carlo will grow pretty vigorously and spread quickly in the aquarium. In good conditions, this aquarium plant stays low and compact, with short stems and small bright green leaves.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Plants that are not happy will show you a few signs. Monte Carlo plants that turn yellow or brown, or grow tall and thin require attention.

    Plants that grow tall and thin are looking for light and this is a sure sign that your aquarium lighting is not strong enough. Yellowing leaves can signal a lack of nutrients or even a lack of carbon dioxide.

    If you find that your plants are getting covered in algae, you need to adjust the amount of fertilizer you’re dosing and the strength and hours of light you’re running.

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    It is common for an aquatic plant to melt back when newly planted in the aquarium. If conditions are otherwise good, your plant should adapt to its new environment pretty quickly and bounce back with healthy new growth.

    Plant Pests

    To avoid introducing unwanted pests like snails into your aquascape, consider buying your Monte Carlo as a Tissue culture vs potted plants that’s grown in pest-free lab conditions.

    If you’re growing your plants from material propagated in more traditional ways, you’ll want to make sure to wash your plants off properly under running water and remove any dead or dying leaves.

    Have a good look at the plant and remove any unwanted critters if you can see any. You can also dip your plants in a very mild solution (20 parts water to 1 part bleach) of bleach to kill unwanted parasites and creatures. You need to be very careful with delicate plants like Monte Carlo as the bleach can damage the plants too.

    If you do go this route, be sure to dip them for less than about 2 minutes and give them a good rinse afterward to remove all traces of bleach.

    Where To Buy

    Monte Carlo is a common aquarium plant in the aquarium trade and is found at many fishkeeping and online fish stores. I recommend purchasing tissue culture plants vs potted plants as they are a great way to get pest free live plants and they have great shelf lives.


    Monte Carlo Tissue Culture – UNS

    Tissue culture plants are grown in labs and are completely pest free and have great shelf lives


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    FAQS

    Are they easy to grow?

    Monte Carlo is an easy carpet aquarium plant for tropical aquariums. In optimal conditions with good light and CO2, this plant can grow pretty quickly, and cover the substrate in your aquarium in just a few weeks.

    Can they grow without soil?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo is grown as an epiphyte, without any contact with soil. If attached to a hardscape element like driftwood or an ornament by wedging it into a hole or gluing, this aquarium plant will grow by taking all the nutrients it needs from the water column.

    How do you take care of a your plant?

    Monte Carlo is an easy carpet aquarium plant to take care of once it is established in the aquascape. Provided you maintain the correct water parameters, and have enough light, nutrients, and CO2, these plants will grow fast.

    All you really have to do then is trim your Monte Carlo carpets regularly to prevent them from growing too thick and shading out the lower stems and leaves.

    Can they grow on rock?

    Micranthemum Monte Carlo can grow on rock, provided you find a good way to attach it. This is easiest if the rock you have has a good texture like lava rock with cracks and holes for the roots to hold on to.

    Monte Carlo grown as an epiphyte in this way might need extra liquid feeding though because they aren’t getting any nutrients from the substrate.

    Closing Thoughts

    Micranthemum ‘Monte Carlo’ is a wonderful plant for vibrant green dense carpets in the aquascape. This plant is easy to care for and grows at a good rate if given the proper growing conditions.

    This plant has other uses besides carpeting and works well as an epiphyte on hardscape features as well. Using the tips and information in this guide, you can make Monte Carlo a beautiful new addition to your aquascape. We hope you enjoy this blog post about Monte Carlo Plants! Leave us your comments below on what you think of these miniature green beauties or if there’s anything else you want to know more about them?


    ๐ŸŒฟ Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Planted Tank & Aquascaping Guide. Your ultimate resource for aquarium plants, aquascaping styles, substrates, and more.

  • How To Care For Your Water Sprite – A Complete Guide

    How To Care For Your Water Sprite – A Complete Guide

    This plant will grow in almost anything. But if you want it to actually look good, you need to understand what it wants. The gap between alive and thriving is lighting, nutrients, and consistency.

    Water sprite floats or plants. Either way, it grows fast enough to be your best nitrate control.

    Any plant stays alive. Making it look good takes understanding.

    Table of Contents

    Water sprite is one of those plants I always keep on hand for new tank setups. It grows fast, competes with algae, provides cover for fry, and doesn’t demand much in return. I’ve used it floating and planted, and both work well. It’s one of the best plants for anyone cycling a new tank or setting up a breeding setup where you need quick biological filtration assistance and hiding spots.

    If you’ve just brought home a water sprite or are thinking of having one, you may be wondering how to care for it. With the proper knowledge and equipment, caring for your water sprite is simple! There are so many different types of aquarium plants available today that choosing the right one for your aquascape is a bit daunting. Water Sprite is an great option for many aquarists both experienced and new to the hobby.

    If youโ€™re looking for a delicately textured floating, mid-or background plant, Water Sprite is just the plant for you. Read on to learn everything you need to know about growing and caring for the Water Sprite.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Your Water Sprite. A

    Most guides treat the your water sprite. A like a plug-and-play plant. Just drop it in and it grows. In my experience, that oversimplification leads to a lot of failed attempts. Lighting and nutrient balance matter more than people think. Another common issue is placement. I see people burying rhizome plants or planting stem plants too shallow. Getting the basics of placement right from the start saves you weeks of watching your your water sprite. A slowly melt away. The biggest myth is that “low tech” means zero effort. Even easy plants need consistent water changes and some baseline nutrition. I’ve watched your water sprite. A thrive in simple setups and die in expensive ones because the fundamentals were ignored.

    A Brief Overview Of The Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)

    These fast-growing aquatic plants are adaptable to a wide range of water parameters and are so versatile that they is grown in many different ways in your aquascape. Water Sprite is a great plant for freshwater aquascapes and is safe to grow with most fish and shrimps.

    Scientific NameCeratopteris thalictroides
    Common NamesWater Sprite, Indian Water Fern, Oriental Water Fern, Water Stag-horn Fern, Water Hornfern
    FamilyPteridaceae
    OriginTropical regions, including Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America
    Skill LevelEasy
    LightingModerate 30-80 PAR (umols)
    Tank PlacementMidground, Background, Floating
    Flow RateLow
    Temperature Range72-82ยฐF
    Height5.0 – 8.4
    Growth RateFast
    Feed TypeColumn and Root Feeder
    Co2 RequirementNo

    Classification

    DivisionPolypodiophyta
    ClassPolypodiopsida
    OrderSalviniales
    FamilyPteridaceae
    GenusCeratopteris
    SpeciesC. Thalictroides (Linnaeus) Brongniart

    Origins And Habitat

    The Water Sprite plant is a beautiful aquatic plant that is found growing in and around freshwater bodies in tropical regions across the globe. Water Sprite plants occur in Northern Australia, Southeast Asia, India, East Africa, and Central America.

    Ceratopteris thalictroides is an adaptable species that grows naturally in a wide range of different habitats. It is found in fresh or stagnant, standing water, marsh habitats, or gently flowing streams and grow emersed or submersed in sunny or partially shaded positions.

    What Does They Look Like?

    Water Sprite in Aquarium

    Water Sprite is a beautiful green species for aquascapes that looks a lot in appearance like terrestrial ferns do. This fern takes different forms depending on how it is grown in the fish tank and what kind of lighting it gets. Ceratopteris thalictroides grow from a short rhizome and their foliage varies from vibrant light to deep dark green.

    Plants that are allowed to float in the fish tank will take on a more spreading, flattened appearance. This floating plant also developed a large interesting white, hanging root system. 

    Indian Fern plants that are grown rooted in the substrate have broad, pale leaves arranged in a rosette from a single stem. Interestingly, these plants have two different types of fine leaves. Both smaller sterile leaves and larger fertile leaves is found on the same plant. 

    In very shallow aquariums, rooted Water Sprite plants will happily grow up and out of the tank water if left to grow to their full size of about 15 inches tall.

    Placement And Lighting

    Water sprite is a really versatile and useful species that is used in a number of different ways in the aquascape. In the planted aquarium, the fine leaves work well to soften and break up harsh lines.

    Depending on the size of your aquarium, this plant could make a great midground or background plant. In smaller aquariums, these water ferns grow tall enough as rooted specimens to create a beautiful, finely textured backdrop to your aquascape. 

    In larger aquariums, Water Sprite makes a great mid-ground plant that is rooted or attached to a hardscape feature like rocks or driftwood. When grown this way with good light, Water Sprites is very effective at hiding the base of taller stem plants in the background. 

    Another popular option is to allow this plant to float at the waterโ€™s surface. Bear in mind of course that floating Water Sprite plants will shade out the plants rooted below it, so be sure to grow only low light species under your floating plant. 

    Wherever you plant your Water Sprite, make sure it has access to at least moderate plant light to ensure vibrant color and a healthy growth rate. Rooted plants will need stronger light than floated plants because they are further from the light source.

    What Are Good Tank Mates (Fish)?

    Good Tank Mates

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    The Water Sprite plant is great for community tanks and will work well with most fish and invertebrate species. Nano fish species, fry, and freshwater shrimp will appreciate the safety and shelter provided by the dense foliage of this plant.

    Water Sprite works equally well in species-only aquariums, as long as the freshwater fish you keep isn’t herbivore or prone to digging through the substrate.

    Floating Water Sprite plants can develop really cool root systems that trap food particles and detritus in the water column, making a great place for shrimps and small fish to forage.  

    Fish Species To Avoid

    Avoid keeping plant-eating freshwater fish like goldfish, Buenos Aires Tetras, and some cichlids with Water Sprite as they will feed on this plant.

    Feeding and Fertilization

    Water Sprite grows fast and vigorously and does not require much feeding if rooted in a nutrient rich plant substrate. Water Sprite plants also take nutrients from the water column and are great at soaking up excess nutrients from fish food and waste. This property makes water sprite a really helpful plant for maintaining stable water parameters and preventing algae blooms.

    How Much And How Often To Feed

    Since Water Sprite does not necessarily need to be on a strict feeding schedule, the timing and amount of fertilizer you use will probably be more dependent on the needs of other species you is keeping in your planted tank.

    It is best to feed your plants regularly to maintain stable water parameters. Of course, it is difficult to know exactly what your plant’s nutrient requirements are without measuring so it is best to test regularly.

    The best way to determine the right feeding schedule for your plants is with caution and through a process of trial and testing. Feed your plants daily or every second day and dial the amount of aquarium fertilizer in to where water parameters stay as stable as possible.

    Fast Growing

    Being a fast-growing plant, Water Sprite will need to be pruned from time to time. This is especially true under strong light and when they are taking a lot of nutrients from the water. Below is a quick video from Tropica that provides a handling and growth care video on the plant.

    Use a sharp pair of aquascaping scissors to remove minor stems, rather than trimming individual leaves, because any damaged leaves or stems left attached to the plant could turn brown and rot. Be careful never to pull on a rooted Water Sprite plant or damage its primary stem as this could hurt the whole plant.

    Planted Tank Parameters

    Water Sprite grows well across a wide range of tank parameters. Water temperatures between 72ยฐF and 84ยฐF are ideal and this plant will do fine in both hard and soft water. KH values of 3-8 are ideal for this plant.

    They also grow well in pretty much any pH value that you’re likely to find in an aquarium. That being said, it has been noted that water Sprite grows best in slightly acidic to neutral water.

    Maintaining parameters

    To maintain stable water parameters in your planted fish tank, be sure to set your lighting on a timer to provide a regular and consistent light schedule. Always stock your tank appropriately and be careful not to overfeed your fish and animals.

    Use a heater to maintain a stable water temperature and a filter that provides effective mechanical, chemical, and biological filtration. From time to time, you will need to rinse out your filtration media or replace the cartridges in your filter.

    When rinsing out your filter media, be sure to use water that you have collected from your tank during a water change. By doing this you will avoid killing the beneficial bacteria that colonize your filter with the harsh chemicals found in most tap water.

    Water Quality

    Good water quality and tank conditions are the cornerstone of all thriving planted aquariums, and by far the most important piece of equipment for maintaining the water quality in your planted fish tank is your filter.

    Filtration

    As good as Water Sprite is at absorbing excess nutrients in the water, youโ€™ll still want good filtration in your aquarium to maintain a healthy system. These plants have fine, delicate leaves that do break apart from time to time. For this reason, itโ€™s a good idea to use a filter with a prefilter sponge on its intake to prevent plant material from being sucked in.

    Flow

    Water Sprite is not adapted to life in fast-flowing water. Use a slow to moderate water flow in your aquarium to maintain healthy plants. In aquariums with higher flow rates, position these plants away from the outflow of the filter, or grow them behind a hardscape feature that blocks out the current. 

    Aquarium Maintenance

    Testing Tank Conditions

    Before introducing a new plant to your fish tank, be sure to test the conditions of the water. This way you will know if the parameters in your planted tank are suitable for the species you want to grow. You will need an aquarium test kit to do this at home. 

    The most important water conditions for you to keep an eye on are the levels of Ammonia, Nitrites, Nitrates, pH, general hardness, and carbonate hardness in the water. Itโ€™s a good idea to get into a routine of testing your tank water conditions every week before you perform a water change.

    Set Up Your Aquarium

    Water Sprite is a very versatile aquatic plant and will easily adapt to most setups. If you plan on growing this as a rooted plant, provide at least 2 inches of substrate to allow your plant to develop a strong root system.

    Rooted Water Sprites do not have any particular substrate requirements and is grown in sand or gravel. In the right conditions, Water Sprite has a pretty fast growth rate in the planted tank.

    This reason, coupled with the species potential height of about 15 inches, means you should grow this species in tanks of at least 10 gallons. In smaller tanks, Water Sprite can quickly take over your aquascape.

    Propagate

    Water Sprite is a very easy plant to propagate. Healthy, mature plants will form miniature daughter plantlets on the edges of their leaves. In time, the little Water Sprite plantlet will break free and will grow as a floating plant or attach itself to the substrate in your aquarium. 

    These little plantlets is pulled from the leaves and planted in the gravel or sand once they have established their own root system. You can also attach these young plants to a hardscape feature like driftwood or rock using nylon or even super glue. The video above by gmluv illustrates the daughter leaves.

    Another easy way to propagate new Water Sprite plants is to simply cut off a secondary stem from the mother plant that has healthy leaves on it. Allow this cutting to float freely in the tank and it will often develop its own healthy root system pretty quickly.

    Health And Disease

    Water Sprite be a fast-growing, vigorous species that has few problems in the planted tank. There are always things that can go wrong, however, especially in smaller freshwater tanks. The successful aquarist is always alert to possible problems by keeping a close lookout for changes in their plants.

    Signs Of Health

    Healthy Water Sprite plants will have vibrant green foliage and stems and a well-developed root system. Plants grown in pots should be able to grow and support themselves without bending over under their own weight.

    Signs Of Ill Health

    Different mineral deficiencies affect how these plants grow and often show up as characteristic discoloration and damage to the leaves of the Water Sprite. Look out for yellowing or browning of the green leaves. The appearance of rotting leaves and roots are also clues that signal poor health in this plant

    Common Health Issues And Treatment

    The most important needs for all aquarium plants are light, nutrients, and carbon dioxide. If you have too much, or not enough of any of these things, you could start to pick up problems with your plants. Fortunately, Water Sprite is a hardy plant that isnโ€™t too picky about aquarium parameters. 

    Nevertheless, there are a few important points to remember about caring for your plants. A common problem when growing these plants in the substrate is not providing enough light and planting the roots too deeply. The crown of the plant should always be above the level of the substrate. 

    Another common problem with aquarium plants is an excess of nutrients like phosphates in the water. This can cause a build-up of algae in the tank and on your plants. To prevent this, make sure not to overfeed your fish and get into the habit of doing partial water changes on a weekly basis.

    Plant Pests

    Plant eating snails can really take their toll on this plant. If you do keep snails, be sure to keep them well-fed for your best chance at protecting your plant. Snails and other pests are often introduced to your aquarium accidentally on new plants. 

    The best way to prevent this is to give new plants a good wash and a dip before introducing them to your aquascape. Start by removing any dead or unhealthy-looking leaves from the plant with a sharp pair of scissors. Inspect the plant for any snails and remove them. 

    Dipping your Water Sprite plants briefly in a very mild solution of bleach (20 parts water to 1 part bleach) is a great way of killing off parasites and unwanted organisms before introducing them to your aquarium. Plants should be dipped for a period of not more than 2 minutes and then washed and rinsed thoroughly before planting out.

    Where To Buy

    These plants can often be found at local aquarium stores or bought from an online fish store. Personally, my recommendation is to purchase from Buceplant if purchasing online. They also still Tropica tissue grown aquarium plants, which is a great way to prevent introducing pests into your aquarium.

    Water Sprite

    Readily available and easy to grow. This fast growing plant will soak up nutrients and thrive in low light

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    Frequently Asked Questions

    Is This low light?

    Water Sprite has moderate light requirements. Although Water Sprites will survive in low-light tanks, they will grow much better in medium light conditions. In low light, these plants will grow a bit tall and thin, unlike the dense, compact, and deep green plants you get under good light.

    Where Can I get Them?

    Water Sprite is a common aquarium plant that you can pick up at many pet stores. A great place to order your plants online is from BucePlant.com.ย 

    Does the They need Co2?

    You can easily grow Water Sprites in low-tech setups but they will grow faster and look better if given good light and Co2. Plant growth is accelerated with Co2, but plant thrives without Co2 injection.

    Are they a good floating plant?

    Yes, Water Sprite is a great floating plant that develops an interesting root system. These plants will do better if allowed to float in lower light setups.ย 

    Is the Your Water Sprite. A Right for You?

    Before you add a your water sprite. A to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You want a relatively low-maintenance plant that adds natural texture to your aquascape.
    • Your lighting is at least moderate. Even easy plants need consistent light to grow well.
    • You’re willing to provide basic nutrients, whether through root tabs, liquid fertilizer, or a nutrient-rich substrate.
    • You have a stable tank. Newly cycled tanks with fluctuating parameters can cause melting and die-off.
    • You’re not relying on this plant to solve an algae problem. Plants help with algae over time, but they’re not a quick fix.
    • You’re prepared to trim and maintain. Most aquarium plants grow continuously and need periodic pruning to stay healthy and looking good.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the your water sprite. A is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Your Water Sprite. A Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the your water sprite. A stacks up against some common alternatives.

    The your water sprite. A occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the your water sprite. A or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the your water sprite. A needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

    Closing Thoughts

    Have you ever considered adding water sprite into your aquarium? If not, itโ€™s time to give this versatile plant a shot. Water Sprite offers great benefits for the fish in your tank and is low maintenance too! You can find these plants at any local pet store or online retailer. It’s hardy enough that there are no special care requirements, so if you’re new to keeping an aquarium, don’t be afraid of trying out something new like water sprite!

    Leave us a comment below on what type of aquatic life you have and how much success with your current setup has been had with other types of plants such as moss balls, java moss, or java ferns! We’d love to hear from you and learn more about what kind of setups you have.

  • Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Cherry Barb Care Guide: The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    Table of Contents

    The cherry barb is the anti-tiger barb. It is peaceful to a fault, will not nip fins, will not chase tank mates, and will not defend itself when something bigger pushes it around. That makes it one of the best community fish in the hobby, but it also means you have to protect it. Put cherry barbs with anything aggressive and they will hide, fade, and stop eating.

    In the right tank, with dark substrate, live plants, and a group of at least six, male cherry barbs develop a deep crimson color that rivals anything in the tropical fish world. Skip those conditions and you get a washed-out pink fish that never shows you what it is capable of. This guide covers what it takes to bring out their best, because the cherry barb does not demand attention. It earns it quietly, and only when the conditions are right.

    The cherry barb is proof that a barb does not have to be a bully. But being peaceful has consequences. Your job is to make sure those consequences never catch up to it.

    What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks

    The most common mistake I see with cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tankss is keeping too few. Guides will say “minimum 6” and leave it at that. In reality, these fish behave completely differently in a proper group of 8 to 10 or more. Keeping just 3 or 4 often leads to stress, hiding, and fin nipping that wouldn’t happen in a larger school. Another thing most guides miss is how much lighting and decor affect this species. Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tankss look washed out under bright white LEDs on a light substrate. Dim the lights, add some tannins, use a dark background, and you’ll see colors you didn’t know they had. I’ve also noticed that many care sheets recommend overly broad water parameters. Yes, cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tankss are adaptable.

    A Brief Overview Of The Cherry Barb

    The Cherry Barb is scientifically called Puntius titteya , they are one of the friendlier barbs you can purchase in the aquarium hobby and are ideal for a community tank. They are also great barb fish for planted tanks as the male’s reds contrast well with many green plants.

    Scientific Name Puntius titteya
    Common Name (Species) Cherry Barb
    Family Cyprinidae
    Origin Sri Lanka
    Diet Omnivore
    Care Level Easy
    Activity Active, social
    Size Up to 2 inches
    Lifespan 4 years (up to 7)
    Temperament Peaceful
    Tank Level All Areas
    Minimum Tank Size 25 Gallons
    Temperature Range 73. 81 Degrees F
    KH 4 – 7
    pH Range 7.2. 7.5
    Filtration/Flow Rate Clam to Moderate
    Water Type Freshwater
    Breeding Egg-layers, easy to breed
    Compatibility Peace community species
    Ok For Planted Tanks? Yes

    Classification

    Kingdom Animalia
    Phylum Chordata
    Class Actinopterygii
    Order Cypriniformes
    Family Cyprinidae
    Genus Puntius
    Species P. Titteya (Deraniyagala, 1929)

    Origins and Habitat

    The Cherry Barb originates from Sri Lanka from the Cyprinidae family. The fish live in freshwater ponds and slow-moving water sources across Sri Lanka. These freshwater fish have also been found in Columbia and Mexico, where they have adapted well to their surroundings.

    The fish thrive in tropical rainforest conditions where the temperature rarely changes.

    Even though the Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is thriving in the aquarium scene, the fish is now vulnerable in its natural environment. This is due to its popularity with aquarium owners and the disappearing waters in their shrinking natural habitat. Fortunately, these fish are now tank bred and easy to find in fish stores.

    What Do Cherry Barbs Look Like?

    Cherry Barbs are long, thin, brightly colored fish. As the name suggests, they are bright red, with the male species generally being more vibrant than the females, which are more of a tan color. The females also look fatter than the males.

    Cherry Barb Care Infographic

    All Cherry Barbs have a dark line that runs along the whole of their body. This is a solid brown line, but due to their scales, it can look dotted.

    Their fins are quite small and can look translucent. The dorsal fin is shaped like a half shell and is halfway down its back. When they swim, this fin lies flattened so that they look like little torpedoes gliding through the water.

    How Big Are They?

    A Cherry Barb can grow up to 2 inches in length. Male Cherry Barbs are slightly smaller than the females. The size of your fish can depend on the care given and may only grow to one inch in length.ย 

    How Long Do They Live?

    The Cherry Barb generally lives for between three and five years. However, with lots of looking after and Cherry Barb care, the fish can live up to seven years.ย 

    Some owners have reported Cherry Barbs living up to eight years. This is possible with the right care and attention and includes the correct habitat, water parameters, and tank mates.

    Temperament and Activity Level

    These fish are peaceful and like nothing better than swimming around all day in their group. You should buy Cherry Barb fish together due to their schooling nature; they like to swim around in groups. This gives them the feeling of safety and security when swimming together.

    They are active fish and enjoy swimming quite fast. They are also curious fish who like searching things out. They may spot something that they want to explore and leave the group for a second but will always return.

    The only time that you will see any signs of aggression from the Cherry Barbs will be while mating. Males will then dominate the female and other males.

    What Are Good Tank Mates?

    Cherry Barb Tank Mates

    Due to their peaceful nature and social temperament, Cherry Barb tank mates can be many other fish species. They prefer to school in a group of other Cherry Barb fish, so keep this in mind when getting other fish.

    Good Tank Mates

    The best Cherry Barb tank mates for these fish would be other peaceful smaller fish species that share the same nature as your Cherry Barbs. They also enjoy sharing the tank with larger bottom dwellers. 

    Some of the best fish species for tank mates would be:

    They are also suited to shrimp and other invertebrates, such as Ghost Shrimp, Cherry Shrimp, or Mystery Snails

    Fish Species to Avoid

    Cherry Barbs is shy around other fish species, so itโ€™s better to avoid larger or more aggressive fish species. Any fish that can fit the barb in its mouth should be avoided. Other more aggressive barbs like the Cherry Barb should be avoided.

    What Do They Eat?

    Cherry Barbs will eat anything that you give them. These fish are omnivores and enjoy a diet of both plant-based and live foods. High-quality flake, freeze dried, and frozen foods can provide the required nutrients, along with some protein-rich food such as brine shrimp, black worms, or bloodworms to supplement their daily diet.

    What About Live Foods?

    The fish enjoy live foods, and these should be given to them regularly. A Cherry Barb will eat most things but prefers a diet including brine shrimp and bloodworm.

    How Much and How Often To Feed?

    You should aim to start feeding the fish twice per day. If they donโ€™t eat everything they are given straight away, give them less on the next feed.ย Be careful not to overfeed your Cherry Barb fish, as this can lead to all kinds of health problems.ย 

    Tank Requirements

    You should make sure that you have the right sized tank and environment for your Cherry Barb fish. They are easy to look after as long as they have the right conditions and habitat.

    Tank Size

    As Cherry Barbs are schooling fish, you should allow for around six fish initially. The minimum tank size should be between 25. 30 gallons.

    Tank Setup

    The natural habitat for these fish is shallow water with lots of live plants, so you should try to re-create this where possible. They are naturally a timid fish, and will not be as social without the comfort of plants. You should try to have some plants on the surface of the tank to help them to feel at home. Some of the best plants to choose from are water wisteria, hornwort, and anacharis.

    Dark sand or fine gravel is an excellent substrate for your Cherry Barb. This offers a similar environment to their natural habitat of a dark, silty base. This, along with a well-planted tank, will give them the right environment. In an aquascaped environment, active aquarium soil is a consideration for rooted and carpeting plants.

    The dark substrate will also add to the aesthetics of your fish tank with the black substrate against the bright red of the fish. Itโ€™s a color explosion!

    Water Quality

    These freshwater fish are a pretty hardy fish and can tolerate a range of water changes and conditions. However, you should ensure that the water quality is suitable for the fish to avoid any illness.

    Filtration

    A standard hang-on back filter should be suitable for your Cherry Barb care, which will keep the water clean at all times. The filter should have a gentle flow as the fish are used to slow-moving water and will not do well in fast currents. For a planted tank, a canister filter is a good consideration to provide added mechanical filtration and flow.

    Water Parameters

    The ideal water parameters for your Cherry Barb freshwater fish would be:

    • Water temperature: 73ยฐF. 81ยฐF
    • pH level: 7.2. 7.5
    • Water hardness: 5 dH. 19 dH

    Aquarium Maintenance

    To give your Cherry Barbs a healthy fish life, you must ensure that your aquarium is maintained to a high standard. The water should be kept clean, and parameters met at all times to give the best Cherry Barb care. The tank should also be cleaned regularly.

    Test Water Conditions

    Your tank water should be tested regularly to make sure that the parameters are met. By investing in high-quality water test kits, this will give you the accurate result that you need for your Cherry Barb fish.

    The water should be tested for the following elements:

    • pH: This is the power of hydrogen level that tells you how acidic or alkaline the water is. 
    • Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fishโ€™s waste and is toxic for your fish.
    • Nitrite: Ammonia is broken down to make nitrite which is also toxic.
    • Nitrate: You should not have more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

    How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

    Once you have bought everything you need, you will need to set up your Cherry Barb tank.

    How To Set Up a Fish Tank

    The first thing to do when setting up your fish tank is to make sure that everything is clean. You shouldnโ€™t use any soap or disinfectant to clean as this may harm your fish; rinsing under water is sufficient.

    The substrate should then be added to the tank, a couple of inches is plenty. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrate. This will make the process of adding water easier.  The filter and heater should then be added but not switched on just yet.

    Dechlorinated tap water can then be added to the tank. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate isnโ€™t displaced all over the tank. To make the water fish-friendly, you need to start the nitrogen cycle. A little liquid ammonia should be added to the water to start the cycle.

    Your decorations and live plants can then be added, making sure that these have been rinsed through. Live plants can be planted in pots or directly into the substrate, and all damaged leaves should be removed.

    The filter system and heater should then be switched on and kept on all day and all night. Your live plants need light to survive, so your lighting should be switched on also. 


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    The tank is then ready, but you shouldnโ€™t add your fish just yet. The tank should be left to establish itself without fish for at least 10 days. The water parameters should then be tested to make sure that they are appropriate. All water parameters should be correct before adding any fish, or they wonโ€™t survive in the tank.

    Once you have reached the correct parameters in your fish tank, you can then add your fish. 

    Health and Disease

    The Cherry Barb is quite a hardy fish species; however, they can still be susceptible to ill health.

    Signs of Health

    Prevention is far better than curing illness, and you should make sure that your fish are looked after. This will help to avoid many illnesses that can affect the fish. 

    A healthy Cherry Barb is colorful and should be actively swimming around the tank with its group.

    Signs of Ill Health

    The first sign of ill health in a Cherry Barb would be changes in the behavior of your fish. If you notice anything different, check your fish out. Some of the changes in behavior is: lethargy, not eating, or rubbing their body on the tank. They could also be suffering from ripped fins, which is a sign that there is something wrong.

    Common Health Issues and Treatment

    The most common disease in your fish would be Ich. This is also known as white spot disease, and the water should be treated with an Ich medication to get rid of this. 

    They can also suffer from other conditions, such as velvet disease, fin rot, and dropsy. These conditions are all curable as long as they are correctly treated in time. Your fish need to be quarantined while being treated. Check out my freshwater fish disease article for identification and treatment of the most common diseases in our hobby.

    Breeding

    Cherry Barbs are easy fish to breed and will spawn often. The breeding process is simple compared to other fish species. The time-consuming work is in the preparation. You will need to set up a breeding tank with a similar habitat to their permanent tank.

    You will need two tanks or will need to separate a tank into two areas, one for the breeding pair and one for the eggs. Cherry Barbs will eat the eggs once spawned if they are not separated. The breeding tank will need to be well planted as they like to hide and protect their eggs in the plants. 

    Once ready to spawn, the males will become more aggressive and start to chase the female. He will also become brighter in color, as will she. The female can lay between 200 and 300 eggs, and these will be scattered over the plants and substrate. You need to quickly remove these once spawned and put them in a separate tank.

    Be careful not to add your female fish back into the permanent tank as soon as she has spawned her eggs. She will be tired and needs to regain her strength before being put back in with the male fish.

    The fry will hatch over the next few days and should be fed on foods such as vinegar eels or micro worms. After a further couple of days, they will begin to swim around. As they get bigger, they can start to be fed on larger live foods like brine shrimp.

    The fry will reach adulthood at around two months old, and at this point, they can be added to the permanent tank with other fish.

    Are Your Cherry Barbs Male or Female?

    There are a few ways that you can tell if your Cherry Barbs are male or female. The first one would be their color. The males are a brighter cherry red color, where the females are paler in color and can be tan or almost white.

    The lateral line that is found along the whole of their body from the head to the tail is different. This is a darker brown color in the female Cherry Barb than the male. The last difference would be the shape of the fish. The female Cherry Barb is slightly rounder in shape in the stomach area than the male; the male fish is slimmer.

    Availability

    You can buy both male Cherry Barbs and female Cherry Barbs from most pet stores as well as online fish stores. Make sure that you purchase your fish from a reputable supplier and that they are healthy fish. You donโ€™t want to buy fish that arenโ€™t looked after and could spread diseases to your other fish.

    What You Need to Buy

    You need to start with the right tank with lighting and a filter system. They are a tropical fish, so you should invest in a heater for the tank. You should then get the substrate, plants, decorations, quality fish food, and maintenance equipment. 

    To clean the tank correctly, you should invest in an algae magnet and an aquarium vacuum. You also need to make sure that you have plenty of water testing kits to ensure that your water is at optimal parameters.

    Donโ€™t forget your fish!

    FAQs

    Are They Aggressive?

    Cherry Barbs are one of the least aggressive barb types you can purchase in the freshwater aquarium trade. They will happily school, are active, and great along with most fish. I would consider them the most well mannered barb you can buy.

    How Many Should Be Kept Together?

    These barbs are schooling fish and are best keep in groups. You should keep at least 5 cherry barbs together in an aquarium. Keeping these fish alone will result in lot of stress and diminished health for your fish.

    Do They Need Heaters?

    A cherry barb will not need an fish tank heater if your room temperature is stable. They will do fine when room temperatures range from 68-72 degrees. If your room stays at this range, you should not need a heater. If you live in a cold climate, I strongly recommend one when it gets colder.

    Is the Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks Right for You?

    Before you add a cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

    This species is a good fit if:

    • You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
    • You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
    • You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
    • You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
    • You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
    • You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
    • You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

    If most of those points line up with your setup, the cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

    How the Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species

    Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.

    Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks vs. Ember Tetra: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks and ember tetra share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Ember Tetra care guide for a detailed breakdown.

    Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks vs. Celestial Pearl Danio: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks and celestial pearl danio share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Celestial Pearl Danio care guide for a detailed breakdown.

    Closing Thoughts

    The Cherry Barb in bad conditions and the Cherry Barb in perfect conditions look like two completely different species.

    The Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is a popular freshwater fish that is easy to care for and will give you hours of relaxing enjoyment. Thereโ€™s nothing better than watching your fish swimming together around the tank. 

    We hope you enjoyed our fish guide, and it gives you the information you need to start your aquarium of colorful Cherry Barbs.

    This guide is part of our Barbs: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular barb species.

    This article is part of our Barb Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

    Check out this video covering barb species for your aquarium:

  • 18 Common Diseases Your Fish May Have (And How to Cure Them)

    18 Common Diseases Your Fish May Have (And How to Cure Them)

    Fish diseases are one of those topics that every hobbyist eventually has to deal with, no matter how careful you are. Over 25 years in this hobby, I’ve seen everything from ich wipe out entire tanks to bacterial infections that looked like fin rot but turned out to be something else entirely. The good news is that most common diseases are treatable if you catch them early. and knowing what to look for makes all the difference.

    There are always health risks when owning fish, but this guide to common fish diseases will allow you to identify, diagnose, and provide you with suggestions on what medications to administer to the affected fish. You’ll be able to know what symptoms to look out for and how to prevent them.

    I have a great video to share from our YouTube channel with you to start off. I will also go over treatment plans for every aliment below.

    1. Anchor Worms

    Anchor Worms

    Anchor worms are not actually a type of worm but a large parasitic crustacean from the Lernaea species that can live on your pet fish. Pond fish are most commonly infected with this species. They will attach to their skin and bury their head into their muscles.

    Symptoms of Anchor Worms

    A common sign with Anchor worms would be red and inflamed scales. If you look close enough, you may even be able to see the body of these parasites sticking out! Their bodies will look like whitish green thread stuck to your fish. You may also notice that your fish is rubbing its body up against things in its tank. Other symptoms may include lethargy, ragged fins, and mucous production.

    Treatment of Anchor Worms

    For larger species, anchor worms can usually be easily removed by carefully pulling on the body of the parasite. After you have removed the parasites, you can apply topical antibiotic ointment to their scales.

    Treatment includes using anti-parasitic medications and performing water changes. It would be best if you also cleaned the whole tank to get rid of any of the eggs, larvae, or parasites in the tank.

    For smaller species, using Hiraki USA Cyropro works without affecting your biological filtration.

    2. Bacterial Infections

    Your fish can get a bacterial infection. These commonly happen after an injury. A common bacteria you will encounter is Aeromonas salmonicida1.

    Aeromonas salmonicida

    Causes of bacterial infections

    Many times the cause of these bacterial infections is due to poor water quality and poor diet. This can cause stress in your fish leading to a lower immune system and allow any bacterial infection to set in.

    Signs of a bacterial infection

    For a bacterial infection, these are some of the most common signs that you will see:

    • Red spot on the fish’s body
    • Ulcers on gills
    • Enlarged eyes
    • Swollen abdomen

    Other signs are rapid gill movement, discoloration, and skin ulcers.

    Treatment of bacterial infections

    If a bacterial infection occurs, your vet will prescribe antibiotics based on the bacteria that is present. There are some medications that you can buy online or at a local aquarium store to help treat bacterial infections.

    Administer antibiotics to handle the infection. A popular brand for many hobbyist to recommend is API’s Furan-2 or Triple Sulfa. These are medications that you put into their water. Livestock will need to be transferred to a quarantine tank or hospitalized tank while they are being treated. Before going back to their main tank, the issue with the tank would need to be corrected, and the tank cleaned.

    Also consider adjusting the tank population to control the spread and preventing in the future. Many bacterial infections are usually caused by unclean water and other factors.

    3. Constipation

    If your fish can not poop, they will quickly become constipated. This can cause them to become very ill.

    Causes of Constipation

    There are two main causes of constipation:

    1. Improper diet
    2. Parasite infections

    Both of these can cause your fish to not be able to properly pass feces

    Symptoms of Constipation

    If your fish is constipated you may notice a bloated abdomen. Constipation can cause them to develop swim bladder disease so you will see signs of buoyancy issues, such as difficulty swimming. Other indicators include loss of appetite and bloating.

    Treatment of Constipation

    One of the easiest ways to treat a constipation is enhance nutrition by increasing the amount of fiber in their diet and use deworming medications. Another way to treat constipation is to dose your fish tank with Epson salt (API sells a product that is easy to find in stores). Adding 1 to 3 teaspoons of salt per every 5 gallons of water will help. Epson salt will act as a muscle relaxant and help them be able to poop easier.

    4. CO2 Poisoning

    CO2 levels over 30 ppm can be dangerous for aquatic animals. This issue can arise with fish tanks that use CO2 injection in planted tanks.

    Signs of CO2 Poisoning

    If your aquarium has high levels of CO2 you will notice rapid breathing and gasping for air. You also may notice that these fish are spending more time near the surface of the tank. Also look for abnormal swimming, breathing difficulty, and lethargy.

    Causes of CO2 Poisoning

    CO2 poisoning in can be caused by your CO2 reactor not working, or your plants not absorb CO2 due to the lights not working properly.

    Treatment for CO2 Poisoning

    The best way for you to treat CO2 poisoning is to use an air stone to agitate the surface. This causes the carbon dioxide to dissipate from the water. You can also adjust the rate of CO2 injection in your tank.

    5. Flukes

    Gill Fluke

    Flukes are external parasites (Source- Cuttlebrook Koi Farm). Most flukes will affect fish gills. The two most common flukes that are seen are Dactylogyrus and Gyrodactylus. There can be body flukes or gill flukes. Let’s discuss the causes.

    Causes of Flukes

    These flukes can commonly enter your aquarium from another fish that is infected with flukes.

    Symptoms of Flukes

    Flukes will attach themselves to your fish’s gills and skin. This can damage these areas leading to a secondary bacterial infection. Other symptoms include slime coat changes and gill damage.

    Treatment of Flukes

    The most effective treatment for flukes is Praziquantel. Apply antifungal treatments and conduct veterinary consultations or expert hobbyists for proper management. After you have treated these flukes, you can treat any wounds that these flukes they left with antibiotics.

    6. Clamped Fins

    Clamped Fins is just like it sounds, it occurs when your fish’s fins are clamped close to their body.

    Causes of Clamped fins

    Most fish will hold their fins very close to their body if the water condition is not correct. It could also be caused by external parasites.

    Symptoms of Clamped Fin

    For clamped fin, you may notice lethargic behavior and holding their fins very close to their body even while swimming. They may exhibit clamped fins along with white patches and spinal deformities.

    Treatment of Clamped Fins

    If you see symptoms of clamped fins, it is best for you to check your water conditions. Also, look for any external parasites. If you see any parasites, you will need to manually remove the parasites. Isolate new additions and implement UV sterilization to prevent spread in the future.

    7. Dropsy

    Dropsy is a term used to describe a fish that is swelling due to kidney disease.

    Symptoms of Dropsy

    Usually, the signs of dropsy that are seen are a slightly swollen belly all the way to a very swollen abdomen so much that their scales will stick straight out, causing them to look like a pinecone. Other notable symptoms include scale loss and exophthalmia (bulging eyes).

    Cause of Dropsy

    There are many things that can cause your fish to have kidney issues. These are some common reasons:

    • Stress
    • Polycystic Kidney Disease

    Treatment for Dropsy

    The first thing to do about Dropsy is to put the affected animal in a quarantine tank. This can help eliminate the stress that may be in the display tank if they improve while in the quarantine tank, there is a stressor in the main tank that needs to be addressed. This may be poor water quality, parasites, overcrowding, or something else. Try to figure out what is causing the stress, and fix this issue.

    Dropsy is a serious disease that can lead to the loss of your prized pet’s life. It is best for you to see a vet. Some vets will see fish; however, it may be hard to find one near you. Reaching out to your local aquarium store, you may be able to get suggestions on who to see to help treat your fish.

    I know both of these are not always available to some, so I’m going to defer to Lori’s Hartland’s experience on how she cured her Goldfish using a triple treatment of Kanaplex, Metroplex & Epsom Salt. Here is the full video below that walks you through her experience. It’s also very important to see her experience with her vet call at 19:06. She had to take a phone consultation, which is going to be what most will get when consulting a vet for a smaller species.

    Other blog material you find may tell you to use salt baths, but in my experience, this doesn’t work too well. Lori’s treatment plan and using wheelchairs have been the most effective for me.

    8. Freshwater Ich

    Ichthyobodo is a protozoan parasitic infection seen in fish who are stressed.

    Symptoms of Ich

    Ich attacks your fish’s gills and skin. These parasites will cause your fish to have a grey color to their skin. You will notice that the affected animal will be lethargic, weak, and not want to eat. You may notice that they spend more time near the top of the tank, gulping air or rubbing their side on their tank. Also, watch for white feces, scratching against objects, and rapid gill movement.

    Freshwater Ich

    Cause of Ich

    Stress is the main cause of Ich. This can be due to poor water conditions, overcrowding, or illness. When your fish is stressed, it leads to a lower immune system and allows this protozoal parasite to take over.

    9. Freshwater Velvet (Gold Dust Infection)

    Freshwater Velvet

    Velvet disease in fish can be very deadly for your whole tank. This disease can quickly wipe out everything in your tank.

    Symptoms of Velvet

    Fish who have velvet will be scratching their body against any hard surface in the tank. This is to try to remove the parasites from their skin. They may also display some of the following signs:

    • Lethargic
    • Rapid Breathing
    • Not eating and weight loss
    • Holds fins next to body
    • Labored or rapid breathing
    • Yellow to rust color dust on the body
    • Pealing of the skin in severe cases
    • Cloudy eyes

    Causes of Velvet

    Velvet is caused by the parasite Oรถdinium pillularis or Oรถdinium limneticum. These parasites are common in tropical fish and may be present in many aquariums but only cause issues if your fish is stressed, sick, being transported, has a sudden, temperature change or has poor water quality.

    Treatment of Velvet

    If your fish has velvet, you do a few things to help with treatment.

    • Increase the temperature of the water by just a few degrees. Monitor water temperature to ensure it stays elevated.
    • Dim the aquarium lights for a few days
    • The treatment of choice for velvet is copper sulfate for 10 days. A good brand to look for is Copper Power or SeaChem Cupramine. DO NOT use copper sulfate in a displayer tank. A removal of the sick fish to a quarantine tank is a must!

    Velvet can many times be prevented by quarantining any new additions that you are planning on adding to your tank, providing your aquatic livestock with a proper diet, and maintaining good water quality. If you came here to get info on the saltwater version, check out Mark’s article on Marine Velvet.

    For future prevention, consider implementing biosecurity measures like quarantining new additions.

    10. Fungus

    Saprolegina

    The two common fungus infections seen in the freshwater side of the hobby are:

    • Saprolegnia2 and 
    • Ichthyophonus hoferi 

    Symptoms of Fungal Infections

    Fungal infections can cause damage to internal organs. Common signs seen in fish with fungal infections are grey cotton-like growths and coloration seen on the skin, gills, fins, and around the eyes.

    Causes of Fungal Infections

    Fungal infections are caused by unclean water conditions and dead and decaying organic material in your tank.

    Treatment of Fungal Infections

    The first thing you need to do to treat fungal infections is to clean their tank fully. Then using potassium permanganate that you put into your aquarium water. You will want to make sure that you have removed any external pathogens from your fish’s skin.

    A popular brand of fungal treatment that you can use after fully cleaning your aquarium is API Fungus Cure. Apply this topical treatment and disinfect aquarium equipment to control the fungus.

    You can also increase the water temperature to 82 degrees as most of these fungal infections thrive in colder temperatures.

    11. Gill Mites

    Gill Mites

    Gill mites3 are common parasites that are seen in aquariums. These parasites attach to your fish’s skin and feed on their blood.

    Symptoms of Gill Mites

    If gill mites are present, you will notice that their gills do not fully close. These mites prevent the gills from being able to function properly. This will cause your fish to spend most of its time at the surface of the tank gasping for air. Also look for abnormal swimming and red streaks on the body.

    Causes of Gill Mites

    These mites enter your tank from new livestock additions who already have these mites. This is one reason why it is advised to always quarantine any new additions before adding them to your aquarium.

    Treatment of Gill Mites

    To treat gill mites, you will need to use medications such as sterazin and octozin. You will need to repeat this treatment about 5 days later to kill any other mites that may have hatched.

    I read somewhere that another blog stated apply immunostimulants and adjust lighting conditions for recovery. I think that’s false. You can refer to this article regarding immunostimulants in fish – they aren’t well studied.

    12. Hole In The Head

    Hole In The Head Disease

    Hole in the head disease (also known as Hexamita) is seen when there are small indentions in your fish’s head or along their lateral line.

    Symptoms of Hole in the Head

    A common symptom of hole in the head are small indentions into their skin. These will start as slight depressions and can advance to more severe holes. Some fish with this illness will stop eating. This disease often causes fecal changes and parasitic cysts.

    Causes of Hole in the Head

    Hole in the head is caused by a a protozoan called Hexamita. It is a common disease in Discus. Another factor is deficiency of minerals in water due to the use of RODI water or excessive usage of activated carbon.

    Treatment of Hole in the Head

    The best way to treat this is in a quarantine tank and treating with Metronidazole or API General Cure.

    You can feed medicated food using focus and General Cure or Metro.

    13. Hemorrhagic septicemia

    Hemorrhagic septicemia

    Hemorrhagic septicemia is a deadly viral infection seen in fish caused by Piscine novirhabdovirus.

    Symptoms of Hemorrhagic septicemia

    This disease will cause bleeding in their internal organs, muscles, and skin. This can be seen as small red dots on your fish’s skin. You can also see some of the following symptoms:

    • Pale gills,
    • Dark-colored body,
    • Fluid accumulation in the body,
    • Bulging eyes 

    Other signs include hemorrhages and sudden death in livestock.

    Treatment of Hemorrhagic septicemia

    There is no really good treatment for this disease. Many fish who get this illness will die of this infection. You can try to clean the tank and increase the temperature of the water that the fish are in a few degrees. You can try to administer antibiotics such as:

    • API Triple Sulfa
    • Kanamycin
    • Thomas Labs Fish Mox

    Do not use carbon filters when using medications. While they improve water quality, they will remove medication.

    14. Lice

    Your fish can get external parasites such as lice. Fish lice are small parasites that can attach to the skin and suck blood, causing the fish to become anemic.

    Symptoms of Lice

    If your fish has lice you may see a small clear disc laying next to their body. Most fish who have lice infestation are pale due to the lice sucking blood. They may also be rubbing against surfaces in the tank as they try to remove the lice themselves. This can cause them to have external wounds on their skin. Other symptoms may include isolation from the group and skin ulcers.

    Treatment of Lice

    The best way to treat lice is to physically remove all the lice from your fish’s skin. If there are any external wounds, you can treat these areas with topical antibiotic ointment. Over the counter medication of choice would be diflubenzuron under the brand name Dimilin-X. It’s an anti-parasitic medication highly effective at eliminating lice.

    Consider implementing quarantine protocols going forward to prevent future infections.

    15. Pop-Eye

    Popeye Fish

    Pop-eye is due to a bacteria infection that causes one or both eyes to pop out of the socket.

    Symptoms

    This condition is usually very easy to diagnose as you will see bulging eyes (also known as exophthalmia) protruding from their eye sockets. Behavioral changes that include loss of appetite are also common symptoms.

    Causes

    Pop-Eye is usually due to a bacterial infection. It can also be due to vitamin A deficiency, mass behind the eye, or poor water quality.

    Treatment

    Pop-eye is commonly treated with tetracyclines. You can get this medication from your local veterinarian. Also, you will need to check the water quality in your tank and fully clean their tank. If you cannot get a medication from a vet, you can try over the counter sulfa drugs like SeaChem SulfaPlex.

    16. Swim Bladder Infection

    The swim bladder is an organ in your fish that contains oxygen and other gases so that they can be buoyant. If their swim bladder does not function properly, they will have trouble maintaining their desired depth.

    Symptoms

    One of the main signs that you will see with swim bladder disease is that your fish has a hard time staying upright in their tank. They may also spend a lot of time near the surface or deep in the tank. They will have abnormal swimming and a loss of appetite.

    Causes

    Poor water quality and stress are common causes of this condition. Newly purchased fish may get this disease if transported incorrectly (common with imports or species caught in the wild). If you notice that your fish cannot maintain proper buoyancy, the first thing you need to check is the water quality in your tank.

    Treatment

    If your fish does have swim bladder disease, it would be best for you to see an aquatic vet. An aquatic vet is able to perform a procedure to release the air from the swim bladder to correct the issue (known as venting). They will also recommend that you test your tank’s water condition and perform water changes of about 10%.

    Fish who have trouble staying upright or spend a lot of time near the tank’s bottom may need to learn how to be hand fed. This will help ensure that your fish is getting the proper nutrition that it needs to survive. Hobbyists have also tried making harnesses to keep their pet upright, like the video below. Check out Mark Kennedy’s video for the full walk-through. The harness solution is most effective with fancy goldfish.

    17. Tail and Fin Rot

    Causes of Tail and Fin Rot

    Fin rot is usually caused by unclean and improper water quality and an injury to one of these areas. This cut or abrasion can then easily get infected due to unclean water. This can cause these areas to rot.

    Signs of Tail and Fin Rot

    You will see fraying and torn fins (or fin erosion), ragged fins, tails, and nodules on the skin.

    Treatment of Tail and Fin Rot

    There are medications that you can get to treat these infections, such as SeaChem KanaPlex and API Fin and Body Cure. You can also use Methylene Blue from Kordon to treat your tank. It is best to put 1 drop per every 2 gallons of water. When using Methylene Blue, you will need to do a 50% water change every other day for a week.

    18. Mouth Rot

    Mouth rot is caused by a fungus called Flavobacterium bacteria.

    Signs of Mouth Rot

    Look for discoloration and white patches on the mouth area. If your fish has mouth rot, you will see a white cotton-like appearance around their mouth. If this is left untreated, the skin around their mouth will start to rot.

    Causes of Mouth Rot

    This is usually caused by unkept water conditions and stress. This lowers their immune system causing fungus to take over.

    Treatment of Mouth Rot

    There are many antifungals that you can buy at your local aquarium store to help treat this issue such as:

    You should also try to figure out what is causing your fish to be stressed and check the water condition.

    Other Common Illnesses

    In addition to the diseases already covered, there are several other common ailments and parasites that can affect fish in aquariums and ponds. I didn’t have the space in this post to cover them all but here is the list so you can be aware of them. Over time, I will do blog posts about these.

    1. White Spot Disease – A highly contagious parasitic disease common in ornamental fish.
    2. Neon Tetra Disease – Affects neon tetras, causing wasting and color loss.
    3. Fish Tuberculosis – A bacterial disease that can be serious.
    4. Columnaris DiseaseColumnaris is a bacterial infection known for affecting gills, mouth, and skin.
    5. Nitrite Poisoning – Occurs due to high levels of nitrite in water.
    6. Ammonia Poisoning – Caused by elevated ammonia levels in the aquarium.
    7. Black Spot Disease – Parasitic infection causing black spots on skin.
    8. Lymphocystis – A viral disease causing growths on fins and body.
    9. Red Pest Disease – Bacterial infection causing red streaks on the body.
    10. Vibriosis – A bacterial infection affecting internal organs.
    11. Whirling Disease – Causes erratic swimming and skeletal deformation.
    12. Camallanus Worms – Intestinal parasites visible near the fish’s anus.
    13. Oodinium – Also known as โ€œRustโ€ or โ€œMarine Velvetโ€ disease.
    14. Carp Pox – Causes waxy, skin growths primarily in koi and carp.
    15. Cotton Wool Disease – A fungal infection that looks like cotton wool.
    16. Koi Sleeping Disease – Affects koi and carp, causing lethargy.
    17. Scale Protrusion – Scales protrude due to fluid buildup.
    18. Nematode Infections – Roundworm infections.
    19. Epistylis – A parasitic infection causing cotton-like tufts on the body.
    20. Brooklynella – A protozoan parasite affecting the skin and gills. Clownfish are susceptible
    21. Chilodonella – A parasitic infection affecting skin and gills.
    22. Uronema Marinum – A marine parasite causing severe damage.
    23. Argulus (Fish Louse) – A large, visible parasite that attaches to the host’s body.
    24. Skin Ulcers – Often bacterial in nature, causing open wounds on the body.

    Prevention Steps

    There are many things that you can do at home to help prevent many of these issues. Your aquatic pet’s health depends on the water condition, diet, and levels of stress. To help keep your fish healthy, try doing these best practices below:

    1. Provide a Quality Diet: Your fish should be fed a proper diet every day. Diet will help keep your fish full and not fight with other tankmates in the tank over food.
    2. High Water Quality: Make sure that the water that your fish is living in is clean using highquality power filters or canister filters and at the correct temperature. Also, check to make sure that the levels in your aquarium or outdoor pond are correct.
    3. Observation of tank: It is best to observe all livestock in your aquarium daily. This will let you know if any inhabitants are sick or stressed. Early detection of a disease is easier to treat than one that is not detected until later in the disease stage.
    4. Reducing Stress: Make sure that you reduce the stress in your tank. If you have a fish that is bullying other tankmates or you have just added a new fish to the tank, make sure they are not overly stressed.
    5. Quarantine New Additions: Any addition to your tank should be quarantined for a few weeks to make sure that you are not putting an infected fish (or plant. yes plants can be infected too!) into your tank. This gives you a few weeks to make sure that your fish is eating and not showing any signs of illness before putting them in your main tank. Mark has a great article on quarantining. It is marine fish based, but the same principle applies for freshwater fish.

    Creating A Medicine Cabinet

    Anyone who has multiple aquariums deals with sick fish. Whether you quarantine or not, it’s a based practice to have medication on hold for emergencies. Here would be common readily available medications that are helpful to have on hand. To summarize all the medications discussed, I have added a table for quick reference.

    TypeMedications
    Parasitic (External)Ich-X, Prazipro
    Parasitic (Internal)General Cure, Seachem Metroplex, SeaChem Focus (To Bind)
    FungalAPI Fungal Cure
    BacterialAPI-Furan 2, Seachem Sulfaplex

    FAQS

    What are the most common issues?

    The most common fish diseases are Ich, internal parasites. Read more about fancy goldfish. Hole in the Head disease is common with Discus.

    How Do You Identify Different types of Infections?

    The most obvious way to identify a disease are external signs. You may notice odd behavior in the fish (such as flashing, scratching), cloudy eyes, or a whitish coatings on its body. Another obvious sign is a skinny fish that is eating, a common sign of an internal parasite. Identifying a disease is critical to treating them in time.

    Can You Get Heath Issues From Them?

    No. You cannot get a disease from an aquarium fish unless you eat them. Since we do not eat our aquarium inhabitants, getting ill from keeping aquariums is very rare. As long as you care for your livestock and clean your hands after putting your hands in your tank, you should not have any concerns with getting sick due to keeping an aquarium.

    How Do you Deal With Health Problems?

    Dealing with disease involves treatment. You must first know what type of disease you are dealing with – parasitic, bacterial, fungal, or internal. Each type has different ways of treating it. There are many store-brand medications these days. For large fish, Vets can prescribe medication. This is more common for large fish like Koi and Cichlid. Small species will often get a consultion from a Vet, but don’t expect them do any procedures.

    How Do I Know If they have Internal Parasites?

    The most obvious way to know if your fish has an internal parasite is weight loss. If your fish is eating and says skinny it likely has an internal parasite. The other is the shape and color of the poop. If you see stringy white poop, this is a sign of an internal parasite. Most internal parasites can be treated with Metroplex


    Want to learn more about how to keep a tank clean? Check out this guide on how to clean an aquarium to learn more.