Category: The AquariumStoreDepot.com blog

The water should be tested for the following elements:

pH: This is the power of hydrogen level that tells you how acidic or alkaline the water is.
Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fish’s waste and is toxic for your fish.
Nitrite: Ammonia is broken down to make nitrite which is also toxic.
Nitrate: You should not have more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

Once you have bought everything you need, you will need to set up your Cherry Barb tank.

How To Set Up a Fish Tank

The first thing to do when setting up your fish tank is to make sure that everything is clean. You shouldn’t use any soap or disinfectant to clean as this may harm your fish; rinsing under water is sufficient.

The substrate should then be added to the tank, a couple of inches is plenty. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrate. This will make the process of adding water easier. The filter and heater should then be added but not switched on just yet.

Dechlorinated tap water can then be added to the tank. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate isn’t displaced all over the tank. To make the water fish-friendly, you need to start the nitrogen cycle. A little liquid ammonia should be added to the water to start the cycle.

Your decorations and live plants can then be added, making sure that these have been rinsed through. Live plants can be planted in pots or directly into the substrate, and all damaged leaves should be removed.

The filter system and heater should then be switched on and kept on all day and all night. Your live plants need light to survive, so your lighting should be switched on also.

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The tank is then ready, but you shouldn’t add your fish just yet. The tank should be left to establish itself without fish for at least 10 days. The water parameters should then be tested to make sure that they are appropriate. All water parameters should be correct before adding any fish, or they won’t survive in the tank.

Once you have reached the correct parameters in your fish tank, you can then add your fish.

Health and Disease

The Cherry Barb is quite a hardy fish species; however, they can still be susceptible to ill health.

Signs of Health

Prevention is far better than curing illness, and you should make sure that your fish are looked after. This will help to avoid many illnesses that can affect the fish.

A healthy Cherry Barb is colorful and should be actively swimming around the tank with its group.

Signs of Ill Health

The first sign of ill health in a Cherry Barb would be changes in the behavior of your fish. If you notice anything different, check your fish out. Some of the changes in behavior is: lethargy, not eating, or rubbing their body on the tank. They could also be suffering from ripped fins, which is a sign that there is something wrong.

Common Health Issues and Treatment

The most common disease in your fish would be Ich. This is also known as white spot disease, and the water should be treated with an Ich medication to get rid of this.

They can also suffer from other conditions, such as velvet disease, fin rot, and dropsy. These conditions are all curable as long as they are correctly treated in time. Your fish need to be quarantined while being treated. Check out my freshwater fish disease article for identification and treatment of the most common diseases in our hobby.

Breeding

Cherry Barbs are easy fish to breed and will spawn often. The breeding process is simple compared to other fish species. The time-consuming work is in the preparation. You will need to set up a breeding tank with a similar habitat to their permanent tank.

You will need two tanks or will need to separate a tank into two areas, one for the breeding pair and one for the eggs. Cherry Barbs will eat the eggs once spawned if they are not separated. The breeding tank will need to be well planted as they like to hide and protect their eggs in the plants.

Once ready to spawn, the males will become more aggressive and start to chase the female. He will also become brighter in color, as will she. The female can lay between 200 and 300 eggs, and these will be scattered over the plants and substrate. You need to quickly remove these once spawned and put them in a separate tank.

Be careful not to add your female fish back into the permanent tank as soon as she has spawned her eggs. She will be tired and needs to regain her strength before being put back in with the male fish.

The fry will hatch over the next few days and should be fed on foods such as vinegar eels or micro worms. After a further couple of days, they will begin to swim around. As they get bigger, they can start to be fed on larger live foods like brine shrimp.

The fry will reach adulthood at around two months old, and at this point, they can be added to the permanent tank with other fish.

Are Your Cherry Barbs Male or Female?

There are a few ways that you can tell if your Cherry Barbs are male or female. The first one would be their color. The males are a brighter cherry red color, where the females are paler in color and can be tan or almost white.

The lateral line that is found along the whole of their body from the head to the tail is different. This is a darker brown color in the female Cherry Barb than the male. The last difference would be the shape of the fish. The female Cherry Barb is slightly rounder in shape in the stomach area than the male; the male fish is slimmer.

Availability

You can buy both male Cherry Barbs and female Cherry Barbs from most pet stores as well as online fish stores. Make sure that you purchase your fish from a reputable supplier and that they are healthy fish. You don’t want to buy fish that aren’t looked after and could spread diseases to your other fish.

What You Need to Buy

You need to start with the right tank with lighting and a filter system. They are a tropical fish, so you should invest in a heater for the tank. You should then get the substrate, plants, decorations, quality fish food, and maintenance equipment.

To clean the tank correctly, you should invest in an algae magnet and an aquarium vacuum. You also need to make sure that you have plenty of water testing kits to ensure that your water is at optimal parameters.

Don’t forget your fish!

FAQs

Are They Aggressive?

Cherry Barbs are one of the least aggressive barb types you can purchase in the freshwater aquarium trade. They will happily school, are active, and great along with most fish. I would consider them the most well mannered barb you can buy.

How Many Should Be Kept Together?

These barbs are schooling fish and are best keep in groups. You should keep at least 5 cherry barbs together in an aquarium. Keeping these fish alone will result in lot of stress and diminished health for your fish.

Do They Need Heaters?

A cherry barb will not need an fish tank heater if your room temperature is stable. They will do fine when room temperatures range from 68-72 degrees. If your room stays at this range, you should not need a heater. If you live in a cold climate, I strongly recommend one when it gets colder.

Is the Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks Right for You?

Before you add a cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tankss need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species can be tricky. Here’s how the cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks stacks up against some common alternatives.

Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks vs. Ember Tetra: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks and ember tetra share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Ember Tetra care guide for a detailed breakdown.

Cherry Barb The Peaceful Barb That Works in Community Tanks vs. Celestial Pearl Danio: These two species are considered together when stocking a community tank. The cherry barb the peaceful barb that works in community tanks and celestial pearl danio share some basic care requirements, but they differ in adult size, activity level, and how assertive they are with tank mates. The choice between them often comes down to tank size and the overall energy level you’re going for. Check out our Celestial Pearl Danio care guide for a detailed breakdown.

Closing Thoughts

The Cherry Barb in bad conditions and the Cherry Barb in perfect conditions look like two completely different species.

The Cherry Barb Puntius titteya is a popular freshwater fish that is easy to care for and will give you hours of relaxing enjoyment. There’s nothing better than watching your fish swimming together around the tank.

We hope you enjoyed our fish guide, and it gives you the information you need to start your aquarium of colorful Cherry Barbs.

This guide is part of our Barbs: Complete Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore care guides for all popular barb species.

This article is part of our Barb Species Directory. Visit the hub page to explore all species care guides.

Amano Shrimp Care Guide: The Best Algae Eater in the Hobby

If I couldIn my experience, Amano shrimp do best in heavily planted or aquascaped setups — not just any planted tank, but tanks where there’s a dense carpet of plant life and healthy substrate. The more plant surface area available, the more biofilm and algae the Amanos can graze on between feedings. I follow Tom Barr’s approach to planted tanks (balanced macro dosing, good CO2) and in those environments Amanos are genuinely thriving — fat, active, and constantly working.

One thing most care guides don’t mention clearly: Amano shrimp are nearly impossible to breed in a home aquarium. The larvae require brackish water to survive — they’ll hatch in freshwater but won’t develop. You need a separate brackish grow-out tank, precise salinity management, and live phytoplankton for the zoea stage. It’s doable but it’s a serious project. For most hobbyists, you’re buying replacements rather than breeding them.

only keep one algae-eating invert in a planted tank, it would be Amano shrimp – no contest. They work harder and eat more algae than any other shrimp species I’ve kept, and at 2 inches they’re large enough that most community fish leave them alone. The Amano shrimp also has a fascinating legacy: Takashi Amano, the man who essentially invented modern planted tank aquascaping, popularized them specifically for algae control. I use them in my own tanks regularly, and this guide covers everything you need to know to keep them successfully.

A Brief Overview Of The Amano Shrimp

Botanically called Caridina multidentata, Amano shrimp are freshwater crustaceans that are native to Japan and Taiwan. The Amano shrimp is known by a variety of names, including Caridina Japonica (previously named until 2006). It’s also called the “Japonica shrimp” or “Algae eating shrimp.”

They are considered the Godfather of all freshwater shrimp species and the seed for the shrimp tank boom in the 90s.

Scientific Name	Caridina multidetata
Common Name (Species)	Amano Shrimp, Japonica Amano Shrimp, Yamato Shrimp
Family	Atyidae
Origin	Japan
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Active, social
Lifespan	Up to 5 years (usually 2-3)
Temperament	Peaceful
Tank Level	All Areas
Minimum Tank Size	5 Gallons
Temperature Range	65 – 78 Degrees F
KH	1 – 10
pH Range	6.5 – 8.0
Filtration/Flow Rate	Gentle
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layers, Difficult to breed
Compatibility	Peaceful community fish species
Ok For Planted Tanks?	Yes

Origins And Habitat

True Amano shrimp hail from the swamps of Japan. Takashi Amano, the founder of modern planted tank aquascaping, helped spread the word about the benefits of keeping these shrimp in a planted tank. The shrimp was named after Takashi Amano for his contributions to the aquascaping hobby. He really is a historical figure in our hobby, and is worth learning more about.

Amano shrimp (AKA Yamato Shrimp) are a unique shrimp in our hobby as they have an amphidromous life cycle. This means that they migrate from salt water to freshwater during their life.

Appearance (What Do They Look Like?)

Amano shrimp (Source) have clear bodies with tan or brown stripes running down the back from head to tail. They have a white stripe that runs from the head to tail and black eyes. Females can be told apart from males by their more elongated lower row of dots. They are one of the less colorful shrimp species. The Cherry shrimp really takes the looks, while the Amano is the workhorse of the aquarium.

How Big Can They Grow?

Amano shrimp can grow to a size of around two inches. They are larger than Cherry shrimp, which makes them better candidates for community tanks. A fully grown female will usually be larger than a male.

Lifespan

Amano shrimp can live up to five years, and typically live shorter because of poor water quality or food shortages. Most hobbyists will keep an Amano shrimp for about 2-3 years.

Temperament And Activity Level

Amano shrimps are very bold creatures. They do not hide and will be out and about throughout the day. The only time they are reclusive is when they molt, which makes sense because this is when they are the most vulnerable.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

Because of their great utility, you will rarely see Amanos in shrimp only tanks. They are one of the most popular additions to planted and community tanks.

Knowing this, let’s talk about what fish work best with them!

Good Tank Mates (Fish Species)

The following fish get along with Amanos with no issues. Bettas are the only ones with an asterisk, as you will want a larger tank to give the shrimp space to hide if you end up with an aggressive Betta. You want to seek out peaceful fish when selecting tank mates.

Betta Fish – in a tank, with a cover, that is over 5 gallons
Guppies
Small Tetras – like Neon Tetras
Peaceful Barbs – like the Cherry Barb
Small Fish like Zebra Danios

Fish Species To Avoid

You should avoid these fish as they enjoy turning your Amano into a tasty snack!

Amano Shrimp eat more algae than any other freshwater invert. If your tank has an algae problem and you do not have Amanos, you are doing it wrong.

Cichlids
Goldfish
Any fish with a mouth large enough to fit the shrimp in its mouth

The Best Tank Mate

If you are looking for the best tank mates, look no further! Amano shrimp enjoy living with their own species. This is because they will socialize and mate with each other without issue. They are also highly compatible with other shrimp, such as the Cherry shrimp.

What Do They Eat?

They are known for eating black beard algae. They specialize in cleaning plants and rocks and will consume leftover fish food. You can also feed them shrimp food, which I’ll go over below.

What To Feed Them

They are very aggressive eaters. If you feed them too well, they will slack on their cleaning duties and stop eating aquarium algae. If you have slower peaceful fish, you will need to scatter food during feeding time to make sure your slower and less aggressive fish get food. They are always active in the tank spending most of their time foraging for food.

There is specialty shrimp food which is suited for freshwater shrimp tanks. It works in mixed tanks as well. Dennerle Shrimp King Food works really well if you want to target feed your Amano shrimp. It’s small enough where the shrimp can grab a pellet and hide away to eat it undisturbed.

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Generally, in a mixed tank, you shouldn’t need to worry about food since they are aggressive feeders.

How To Set Up A Suitable Tank

First, it is important to know that Amano shrimps are excellent escape artists. You must have a cover on your tank. They are small inverts, and are great jumpers when they are excited. A covered lid is best, something you see with most rimmed tanks.

For rimless tanks, you will need to get a glass tank cover. Mesh nets are too wide to work for shrimp.

What Is A Proper Tank Size?

For a quick answer, the proper Amano shrimp tank size is 5 gallons. Most aquarists will not keep only Amanos though, so let’s dive in deeper with a rule of thumb below.

Tank Setup

The general rule of thumb for Amano is 1 shrimp per every 2 gallons with a 5 gallon minimum tank size. While this is the rule of thumb, you can often get away with less, as they are extremely active with scavenging and eating waste and consume algae from your tank.

Decor

When decorating, you should choose natural items like driftwood and plants. Amano shrimps will adapt to any setting, but look better in a natural environment because of their color. They tend to stand out under the dark backdrop of driftwood.

Driftwood

Aquarium driftwood is a great choice if you are looking for some plants material for your Amano shrimp. Cholla wood is an excellent plant option, because it naturally decays and provides shrimp with food while also providing them with the perfect habitat.

Great For Shrimp Tanks!

Cholla Wood

Cholla is best known for being an excellent wood for pet shrimp

Mosses

Moss is a crucial accessory in the shrimp tank because it acts as a hiding place. It calms them and keeps them safe, which also seems to make female Amano shrimp brighter than usual. The best moss for Amano shrimps would be Christmas Moss because it’s easy to care for and they love it!

Christmas Moss

A easy to care ground cover plant that is an excellent choice for shrimp tanks

Live Aquarium Plants

Shrimp thrive in tanks with plants. These shrimp are hardworking because they clean algae from all of the plants, and also don’t need any decoration other than a place to hide for safety.

To make shrimp happier, provide rocks and live plants in their habitats to serve as protection. Shrimp love eating biofilms and algae from surfaces, so including plants is doubly beneficial for them.

Plants also absorb excess nitrates in the water to maintain a cleaner and healthier fish tank. Low light plants are best for Amano shrimp setups, so make sure you buy them! Here are a few examples:

Substrates

When it comes to filling the substrate in a tank, including small pebbles as a substitute for natural rocks can be beneficial. If other animals inhabit your fish tank, cater to their needs first because Amano shrimps are less demanding to manage. They adapt readily with most changes regardless of how harsh they may seem.

Starting with substrate and pebbles, rinse them thoroughly before placing in the tank. There are substrates that work well for shrimp tanks like Fluval Stratum. Definitely take a look if you’re looking to start out.

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Fluval Stratum

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Water Quality And Tank Conditions

Water quality starts with quality filtration then maintaining parameters. Let’s focus first on key parameters.

Which Filters Are Most Suitable?

Amano shrimp require water that is dechlorinated and buffered with a neutral or near-alkaline pH. Regularly monitor your tank for anomalies or irregularities, and change 25%-30% of the water every other week. Monitor your levels with a proper aquarium test kit.

TDS is another factor to keep in mind when caring for Amano shrimp. They require the same TDS as Cherry shrimp, which is around 150-200.

As expected, these tiny invertebrates don’t need a large tank for comfort. Ideally, 5-gallon tanks are enough to meet their needs.

When choosing a tank size, in most cases you should go for the bigger size. For example, if you were going to pair them with other inhabitants, like fish or other shrimp, it is best to have a larger tank than settling for one of the smaller sizes. In general, the golden rule of thumb is to opt for the bigger tank over small.

Which Filters Are Most Suitable?

There are many factors that can affect a shrimp tank, but one of the most controversial parts is filters. Some filters might be too powerful and can suck up the shrimp, so it’s important to choose carefully. A sponge filter should provide for adequate water filtration while still keeping your pets safe and happy!

Editor’s Choice

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Tank Filtration Process

Always try to create a clean and well managed tank for these pets. As explained before, Amano shrimps are sensitive to nitrates or ammonia levels in the water. Therefore, filtration systems which use large amounts of bio media is advised so that your pet can thrive in the environment you have created for them.

If you are a shrimp purist, one option is to use a cheaper filter for your new shrimp. Sponge filters naturally only offer biological filtration; this means they will not suck up the Amano shrimp. The best place for these shrimp to consume leftover fish food particles is on the sponge’s exterior surface.

On the other hand, if you want to keep more than Amano shrimp, you’ll need a Hang-on the back filter or canister filter. You should put a sponge on the intake as a pre-filter to avoid sucking up any of your Amano shrimp by accident.

Water Conditions – Parameters

Although Amano shrimps are hardy and can tolerate living in a variety of water conditions, they thrive best in freshwater tanks with the following parameters:

Water Temperature

Amano shrimp prefer to live in water that ranges from 65°F – 78°F.

Water Hardness And pH Range

pH should be between 6.5 – 8.0. Water hardness can range from 6-8 DKH

Amano Shrimp Lighting

Amano shrimp do not require any light to live. If you have a freshwater tank with plants, or if your goal is for the Amano’s coloration to come out more distinctly, these animals can also live in an aquarium fitted with a planted tank LED system.

Ammonia, Nitrites, And Nitrates

You should keep the concentration of ammonia and Nitrites at 0, and Nitrates below 20ppm at all times. In cases where these levels are higher than 20 ppm levels, your Amano shrimp may experience major problems.

Copper – The Silent Killer

Amano shrimps are sensitive to copper. Be careful using medications containing this metal in your tank as they can harm the Amano shrimp, such as seachem cupramine or marvel copper safe medications.

There are also aquarium plant fertilizers that might contain copper! Look for fertilizers that are specially made for shrimp to avoid any issues.

How To Breed

Breeding Amano shrimp is a challenge. Unlike Cherry shrimp and other shrimp caridina, they are difficult to breed and many of the shrimp you will purchase from stores and online will be imported.

The biggest challenge with breeding them is when the Amano shrimps are first born, they require saltwater. As the larvae mature, you will need to lower the salinity and get them adjusted to freshwater. This is generally going to be way too involved for many aquarists. Below is a video of what a pregnant female Amano looks like:

Sexing Amano Shrimp

It’s actually quite easy to ID males and females because shrimp anatomy is generally the same for all freshwater shrimp species. Here are some key pointers to help you identify each:

Females

Brown stripe and dots
Thick vertical body
Saddle for the eggs
Whiter and more pronounced stripe that runs from the top of the female
Larger than male

Females will attempt to breed after molting.

Males

Smaller
Less colorful
Brown dots versus stripes across the body
No saddle
Stripe at the top is more faint than the male

Breeding Process

Breeding is a complex process for Amano shrimp. Describing the process is a whole separate post in itself. Since this post is fairly long already, I’m going to supply a video from Avatar Aquatics that goes over the process and I’ll include a few notes for you below.

Incubation tank needs to be at saltwater tank salinity (35PPT or 1.026 salinity)
Use diatoms or pyato plankton to feed your shrimp
Cover so water does not evaporate
Move larvae as soon as born and acclimate to saltwater immediately

The female reproductive cycle is as follows:

Molt to berried – 1 day
Berried to drop – 17 days
Drop to next batch – 5-7 days
Shrimp hatch time: up to 5 weeks
Total time: 25-30 days

To provide clarification, a female with eggs is called a berried female. You want to remove the female around a week after they become buried. If they are dropping eggs in your display tank, that is also a sign that you can remove her.

If you want scientific backed studies on the process of breeding Amanos, here is the link to the document from the Zoologicial Society of Japan.

One nice side-benefit with Amano is that they are purists. They will not crossbreed with other types of shrimp species. This means if you want to keep a stable population in your tank, Amanos are an excellent choice because they will not breed like crazy like other shrimp.

Hatching Process

The hatching process is one of the most difficult transitions when raising Amanos. You will need to transition them to saltwater within minutes of the shrimp hatching. The video from Avatar Aquatics illustrates how to do it correctly.

The preferred food to use is phyto plankton. It is readily available online and easy to use. I prefer Algae Barn’s phyto.

Best Phytoplankton

Algae Barn Ocean Magik

Best Phytoplankton

This phytoplankton package is loaded with 4 types of phyto. Excellent for corals, fish fry, and larvae

How To Raise Shrimplets

Congrats, you have baby larvae and are now trying to figure out how to raise them. The next phase is all about maintenance. You will want to feed your larvae every day, and consider doing a water change every other day.

Larvae hit the juvenile stage around 20 days. This is when you will want to consider acclimating them to freshwater. This is another critical and complex step. You will want to drip acclimate the shrimp to freshwater over a 12-24 hour period. The goal is to go from 35PPT to 5PPT within that time frame.

The saltwater side of the hobby sell a number of drip acclimators that you can use. I would recommend using Innovative Marine’s Accudrip Acclimator.

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Accudrip Acclimator

Most of us know that fish and shrimp are sensitive creatures, who don’t do well with sudden changes. The Accudrip Acclimator is here to help adjust your aquatic creatures to new tanks and conditions

DO NOT put the juveniles in a tank with fish in it. You should use a separate growing tank. Do not move them to a tank with fish until they are at least 1 inch. The grow out tank should be 2.5 – 5 gallons and should require water changes every 2-4 days due to the increasing amount of molting and death of the baby shrimp.

There are lots of reasons why baby shrimp do not make it. They can die during the molting process from a bacterial attack or some may not get enough food. This is part of the process. In nature, many larvae do not survive predators and bacteria.

Let’s cover molting next, as I just mentioned it.

Molting

If you see a whitish shrimp laying on its side that looks half broken, it is likely the result of a molt versus a dead shrimp. If you see a shrimp laying on its side, and it is gray or an orange or pink color, then that is likely a dead shrimp.

So What Is Molting?

The shell of Amano shrimps do not grow along with it. The remains left behind, when the old shell falls off, are called an ingrowth shell, and it needs to be replaced after a few weeks.

What’s Involved In The Molting Process?

The new shell grows slowly under the old one, which is soft. The shrimp then grips tightly to any surface it can find, such as the substrate or plants. It pulls against a half portion of the shell before pulling away from it gradually.

Once the shrimp finishes, it removes the empty shell by quickly curling its tail.

Once The Molting Is Completed

The shrimp’s new shell is typically soft for the first few days before it hardens. During this time the shrimp is susceptible to attacks, so it usually hides in plants until the shell firms up.

Molting Related Problems

Yes, molting-related problems exist. For example, if a shrimp fails to molt it will die. Alternatively, the shrimp might only crack off the first part of its shell and then struggle to break open the other half – only to be stressed to death in doing so; it could also happen that the wheel might not break off completely resulting

Causes Of Molting Problems

There are many theories about what causes the various molting problems. Some people think it is related to water parameters, while others believe that changes in diet or inconsistencies in temperature can lead to troubling molting issues.

If your water’s general hardness levels are too low, the shrimp will have a difficult time developing shells. It might not shed its shell altogether, but it will become so soft that you can bend it and not split it. If you want to help your shrimp thrive (and protect their shells), try using GH test kits to make sure your GH stays in the right range.

You should also consider material dosing if your tap water source is soft, or if you use a water softener in your home.

Where To Buy

You can purchase Amano shrimp at a local or online fish store. For online, I would highly recommend purchasing from BucePlant. They are one of the best places online to purchase healthy and vibrant freshwater shrimp.

Best Shrimp For Planted Tanks!

Amano Shrimp

Best For Planted Tanks!

When it comes to keeping a healthy planted aquarium, Amano Shrimp are the best. These hard-working crustaceans will dutifully wipe your plants and rockwork clean of algae. Their appetite for different types of algae that can’t be matched by other shrimp breeds!

ASD Suitability Rating: Amano Shrimp

Overall Keeper Difficulty: 5/10 (Intermediate)
Amano shrimp are easy to keep alive but have specific requirements that catch beginners off guard. Here’s how I rate them across the dimensions that actually matter:

Algae Control Effectiveness: 10/10 — Best in the hobby. Nothing touches them for biofilm and hair algae.
Planted Tank Suitability: 10/10 — Thrive in CO2-injected, heavily planted setups. Essential in a serious aquascape.
Beginner-Friendly: 6/10 — Hardy once established, but copper sensitivity and molting vulnerability catch new keepers out.
Compatibility: 8/10 — Safe with most community fish; avoid anything large enough to eat a 2-inch shrimp.
Breeding Difficulty: 10/10 (extremely hard) — Larvae require brackish water. Not a realistic home breeding project for most hobbyists.
ASD Overall: 8.8/10 — If you keep planted tanks, Amano shrimp are non-negotiable. Buy 5-10 at a time for meaningful algae control.

Summary

I hope this article has helped you learn about the Amano shrimp and what to expect when taking care of them. If it’s not already obvious, I highly recommend these little guys for any freshwater aquarium! They are a great addition that will thrive with minimal work on your end. Leave us a comment below if you have any questions or feedback about our guide, or anything else related to fishkeeping. Thank you so much for reading and happy tanking!

May 23, 2021

Aquael Multikani 800 Review: A Comprehensive Look at a Versatile, Smaller-sized Canister Filter
If you have seen my best canister filter review post, you know that I’m a big fan of European filters. Knowing this, you can tell how my excitement was when I got the word that Aquael was coming to the US. I just had to do an Aquael Multikani 800 review.

From the Dutch Aquascape to the Dutch Reefing system to legendary manufacturers like Eheim, Europe has filled our hobby with quality and innovation. Aquael is a company that has been in the industry for over 40 years. They specialize in aquarium products, and their experience shows. The Aquael Multikani 800 filter is designed to be very versatile and work well with tanks of all sizes. It’s also easy to set up, maintain, and use! Read on below for our full review on this product.

In this post, I will dive into how the Multikani has a unique place in the Canister Filter space and how this Polish manufacturer is making a name for itself. Let’s get started!

In this review, will go over the following:
- Features
- Craftsmanship
- Ease of Use
- Value for Money
- Product Support
- Price
In a hurry? I recommend purchasing the AquaEl MultiKani from Amazon

Aquael Multikani 800 Features

The Aquael Multikani 800 has a compact size that makes it perfect for smaller tanks. The biggest feature is its ability to expand with its expandable chambers. You can add up to 8 additional cambers by purchasing expansion packs from Aquael. It’s really easy to achieve crystal clear aquarium water with this filter by expanding and customizating the filtration cartridges .

Multikani Expansions

The Aquael Multikani 800 has 4 different expansion cartridges you can order. The four types are:
- ZeoMAX Plus
- Carbo Max Plus
- BioCeraMax Pro
- PhosMAX Basic
While all of these will serve a purpose in a freshwater aquarium, personally I would prefer to add my own media. I’ll get into that later. For what Aquael offers stock, I would say the BioCeraMax and Carbo Max chemical filtration are the best cartridges to purchase. All the expansion cartridges are reusable.

The filter has a level to adjust to have different levels of flow, which you adjust by sliding the level. The first level is for gentle to moderate water movement, while the furthest is more aggressive.

Child Proof Lock

The Multikani is opened and locked with a special plastic key as showed in the above picture. This key is removable and can be stored safely making this one of the few truly child proof aquarium filters on the market. A huge plus for parents!

External Pump

The Aquael external pump is rated for 210 gallons per hour and can be hooked up outside of the canister filter. This allows you to clean the filer while having the pump still circulate your aquarium water!

This is not the first time I’ve been impressed with Aquael products. This is not the first time I’ve been impressed with Aquael products. After all, I did review the Cobalt EXT. The EXT is actually manufactured by Aquael. I just did not know that at the time. They also make the Cobalt Neo-Therm, one of the best aquarium heaters on the market.

Craftsmanship

Aquael has been in the industry for over 35 years, and their experience is evident in the quality of their products. They have over 600 employees all over the world, and every 15 seconds, someone in the world purchases a heater manufactured by them. They have two factories both in Europe and sell in over 100 countries

As you can see, Aquael is a high quality manufacturer. The Multikani is no exception to their standard. There is no cheap plastic feeling with this canister filter. Aquael backs their filter with a 2-year warranty. This puts them above the cheaper filters like the SunSun and less than the OASE and Fluval. They are definitely positioning themselves as a value based brand.

800 Value For Money

When it comes to value, I feel the the Multikani has positioned itself as the top budget option buy when it comes to canister filters. It compares best with the SunSun filter. While the SunSun is a bigger filter, it is also more expensive and has been knowing for having quality control issues.

The Multikani in comparison, has a lower price point and can expand it over time. While it can do up to 8 cartridges, I don’t feel you won’t need more than 3 or 4 paired with the pump it comes with. You can expand it to 3 cartridges and still be under $100 for a high quality canister filter. Given it’s not built cheap and has a quality manufacturer making it, I’m really happy with this product.

800 Ease of Use

I found the Aquael not as intuitive as other canister filters I have worked with. It is a unique filter after all. The biggest thing I had to get over was how durable the equipment is. At first, I was concerned about breaking the key that locks and unlocks the filter. The plastic is heavy duty. I thought that it was going to be delicate due to the price point.

The instructions are actually easy to follow, it’s just that the pictures are tiny. I provided a screenshot below of the configurations and the copy of the instructions below for easy reference.

Aquael Multikani InstructionsDownload

It was really easy to get it installed in the tank. The unit does not have a self priming feature, so you will need to prime it the old school way. It makes sense that this filter would have this feature given the size of it. To prime, you will need to suck on the tube to deliver water to the pump. It is an old fashion way of setting up a canister these days, but since the filter can keep pumping even when you are cleaning it, you technically will only need to do this once.

Product Support

Aquael is new to the US Market. Knowing this, we know that product support is going to be limited as there is not a big user base. If you are purchasing from one of their resellers like Cobalt, you should be in pretty good hands as Cobalt has great customer service. The same can be said with Amazon since Amazon is willing to work with the buyers.

One of Aquael’s biggest criticism is the lack of email support. For phone support though, their service is great. The same can be said if you purchase the product at an LFS in the UK. I imagine Aquael will have similar service in the US with LFS. The only service number they have at the time of this article is (22) 644 76 16 int. 1138. It’s an international number, but they speak english. They should have a US number in the future as they expand distribution.

Multikani Price

I find Aquael’s products in between the prices of premium sellers like OASE and discount sellers like SunSun. For the Multikani, you will spend slightly less than the SunSun, but the filter will be small and the output will be as well. This places the Multikani in slower flowing smaller tanks. For a have flow and filtration heavy setup like a African Cichlid tank, I would recommend looking into an OASE or stepping up to their UltraMax filter.

This canister filter fits really well in aquariums 40 gallons and under. It is super quiet and can be expanded. Anything larger, I would recommend stepping up to a bigger capacity and higher flow canister. I think it’s probably the best filter you can buy that will work with larger betta fish tank setups and other setups that require lower flow. It’s also great for turtle tanks and shallow water tank setups.

Aquael vs Oase vs Fluval

Let’s talk about the elephant in the room – how does Aquael compared to the established European players in the market. All these brands and filters will produce crystal clear aquarium water, but there are differences between the brands that I will explain below.

Aquael vs Oase

Versus Oase, the Aquael offers a lower price. The best comparable filter in OASE’s line up would be the Filtosmart 60 or 100. You will need to add an expansion cartridge to make the Multikani comparable to it. With that, I find the Multikani better than the Filtosmart. You do not have to take out the entire unit to clean it out.

Another issue with the Filtosmart is the filtration confriguration. It’s in the wrong order. The Multikani is simple, it works from the top down so you just need to place all your mechanical filtration at the top to get the cleanest water in the biological chambers. The Multikani is cheaper, easier to use, and more convenient than the OASE.

Aquael vs Fluval

The Aquael Multikani is best compared to the Fluval 107. The Fluval has bigger filtration capacity, a higher flow rate, and a higher price tag. The Aquael offers a more compact size, cheaper price. Between the two, the Fluval canister filter definitely has an edge, but at a higher price tag.

If your focus is on cost, I would go with the Multikani for a smaller tank. If your focus is on features, I would look at the Fluval 107 instead. The fluval is more suited for traditional community tanks while the Multikani is best suited for low flow setups.

Closing Thoughts

The Multikani a great option for small tanks or setups that require a lower flow rate. The filter comes with everything you need to get started- including tubing, fittings, and media. It’s also easy to install and maintain without any special tools or training required! Aquael is a trusted brand for all your aquarium needs, and the Multikani filter provides an excellent value. Click here to purchase this item from a trusted retailer today.

🔧 Want to learn more? This article is part of our complete Aquarium Equipment & Gear Guide. your ultimate resource for filters, heaters, lights, pumps, tanks, and more.

References
- Seriously Fish — Species profiles and care data
- FishBase — Taxonomy and scientific data
- Practical Fishkeeping — Husbandry and care advice
May 22, 2021
POND MAINTENANCE- THE MOST IMPORTANT POND TIPS YOU SHOULD KNOW
Let’s be honest, backyard ponds look beautiful with all vegetation and aquatic life swirling in circles gracefully. But it’s the pond maintenance that demands arduous hours of labor.

Most pond hobbyists are aware of the fact that an unhealthy pond means an unhealthy ecosystem that is dangerous and detrimental to you and the environment. Therefore, it’s imperative that you do your research and homework before creating your own, beautiful garden ponds.

In this article, I’m putting my years of experience to use and demonstrating seasonal pond maintenance and the recommended steps to follow during each season.

Happy pond keeping!

Seasonal Pond Maintenance

Nature behaves differently in all seasons, and so does your pond. Therefore, you cannot follow the same tips throughout the year. Pond keeping demands in-depth knowledge and research about seasonal pond maintenance and its effects on your aquatic life.

Usually, the type of pond determines its maintenance. However, this article will highlight popular seasonal pond maintenance tips that are particularly apt for spring start-ups to summer pond maintenance.

Videos are always helpful, so for those that prefer to learn through video, here is a great video by anypond below. He’s a UK pond maintenance contractor.

So if you’re new to water gardening, stay tuned to learn the essentials of pond care and maintenance.

Spring

During the spring season, your pond demands to be cleaned and un-winterized.

Or if I may say so, spring pond maintenance is just the opposite of winter preparations. While in winter, you winterize your equipment for the cold, dry days, spring brings joy and life to your ponds and brings your aquatic life back from its long hibernation period.

Here are the ideal easy steps for spring pond maintenance.

1. Check Your Equipment

Check your equipment and make sure they are running properly. Winter is the best time to replace UV bulbs and clean your equipment. Spring is the time to double check to ensure everything is in working order.

2. Feeding Your Fish

Start feeding your pond fish as soon as the temperature hits a steady 50 degrees. I recommend feeding a cold temperature feed until the temperature rises to 60 degrees. After reaching a normal temperature of 60 degrees and above, you can start with the regular feeding program for your pond fish.

3. Remove Accumulated Debris

During the winterization process, your pond accumulates debris and organic waste, including leaves, twigs, fish waste, and grass clippings. Even though the filtration system takes care of the debris, some waste turns into muck and sludge, which are a breeding ground for algae and cause water clarity issues. Therefore, I recommend spooning away the leaves, twigs, and other debris with a net.

Deep cleaning involves draining the pond and washing the surface and rocks. This is more of a common routine in ponds that have gravel. Personally, I prefer bare bottom systems for Koi tanks. On a high end install, a bottom drain and bare bottom mitigates the need to drain clean the pond.

During the cleaning process, you can transfer your fish and aquatic plants in a large tub with proper aeration to avoid inconvenience. As soon as your pond is free of debris and scum, refill it with water and return the fish, plants back.

Fertilizing the aquatic plants

When you put the plants back in the water, don’t forget to fertilize them according to their recommended dosage and needs, i.e., full fertilizing for new plants and maintenance fertilizing for the existing ones.

Adding (nitrifying) beneficial bacteria and cleaning the filters

It is imperative to clean the filters to remove accumulated sediments. Also, to keep your ponds properly maintained, add beneficial bacteria for bacterial colony stimulation.

Summer

The most favorable season for your water garden to thrive is summer.

Summer season begins when the water hits up to 80 degrees and higher. Your fish should be fed generously during this time. However, there are a few things that should be taken into consideration while maintaining ponds in summer.

Stock your pond water with Minnows or other small fish

The reason I emphasize adding Minnows in ponds is mosquitoes.

Mosquitoes can ruin the summer vacations that you’ve been longing for. Therefore, it is recommended to stock your pond with Minnows or other small fish to control the mosquito population. Also, consider larvicides and proper aeration to eliminate potential big problems.

Keep your water source free of grass clippings and other debris

Algae blooms happen the most in summers. Therefore, keep grass clippings, fish waste, and other accumulated debris out of the pond water.

Install aeration system

An effective and cost-efficient aeration system help maintain your pond and keep it clean throughout the year. It also increases oxygen supply by keeping the cooler water on the bottom of the pond, keeping the aquatic life healthy and happy all year long.

Fall

Fall is the season when you need to put extra effort into your pond because it prepares you mentally and physically for the worst season of a garden pond, i.e., winter.

Winter puts most of the life to sleep and therefore, it is recommended to remove the things that winters can damage, including the pond filters, pumps, aerators, and fallible plants. If there are fish in your garden ponds during winter, you can install the pond equipment momentarily to de-ice the water.

Here are some things you can do to maintain your water garden during fall.

Install leaf netting

Fall means lots of leaf shedding, and the accumulated leaves are just unwanted debris for your pond.

Therefore, it’s important to install lead netting to prevent the leaves from falling into the pond. Also, I recommend trimming and pruning the dead foliage of your aquatic plants just above the soil.

Clean excess debris

Accumulated leaves and fish waste affects your pond’s oxygen level and stresses the aquatic life. Therefore, always clean and remove excess debris using a hand net. If the accumulated debris is hard to reach, I recommend using a pond vacuum.

Switch to fall-friendly Fish food

It’s best if you switch your fish to the fall-friendly pond fish food that easily digests in cooler temperatures and sustains your fish in the dormancy period.

When the water temperature drops below 50 degrees, I recommend Wheatgerm food three times a week, that too, only if your fish consume it in a 5 minute period. However, when the temperatures fall below 40 degrees, stop feeding your fish until spring time.

Install de-icer and proper aeration kit

In freezing temperatures, de-icing prevents harmful gases to accumulate under the ice and maintains healthy oxygen levels. De-icers allow oxygen levels to remain healthy and saturated in the pond by keeping a hole open in the ice.

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Therefore, de-icers and aeration kits are a must-have for your pond during fall and winter.

Winter

Winter is the season that adversely affects your pond fish and clearly, it’s the worst season for your water gardens.

In such hard times, only two tips keep the pond game going. The first and foremost tip is to stop feeding your aquatic life once the water temperature drops below 50 degrees. The second life-saving tip is to install a floating pond de-icer to allow toxic gases from organic decomposition to escape without causing any harm to your pond. De-icers are vital for maintaining your pond in winter because breaking the ice would potentially kill the pond fish.

Here are some other tips you can follow for winter pond maintenance.

Prepare Submersible Pond Pumps

First of all, check the submersible pond pumps if they are in good working condition.

The pond pump should not be lower than 1 foot. this ensures the circulation of surface water solely throughout the garden pond. The pond pump also helps in marinating warmer temperatures at the bottom of the pond where the pond fish hibernates¹.

I recommend running the submersible pump continuously until the temperature drops to 10 C or 50 F

Reduced fish feeding

Like I said before, reduced feeding does wonder as it doesn’t allow debris and waste to accumulate at the bottom of the tank. Also, during winters, fancy goldfish should be kept indoors for their survival and distribution of food.

Reduce the feeding when the water drops down to 44 F to 50 F as fish can only digest low protein foods, such as wheat germ. As soon the water drops to 40 degrees Fahrenheit, the fish start to hibernate and so you will need to stop feeding your fish entirely.

Therefore, it is recommended to monitor the pond water temperature so you know when to stop feeding the fish.

Protect Aquatic Plants

Aquatic plants such as pond lilies cannot tolerate harsh weather during winter. Therefore, some preventive measures should be taken for their protection.
1. It’s recommended to remove Canna lilies from your pond. You can replant them in the green house instead for protection.
2. In the case of small ponds, be sure to cut the heads of any marsh reeds before they shed their seeds in the pond.
3. Install biological filters in your pond to keep the fish healthy during winter.
Floating ball to prevent freezing

One low cost way to maintain a pond during winter is to use the floating ball. The floating ball prevents pond freezing and maintains the gaseous exchange by movement.

However, in some areas where the weather is extremely cold and dry, it may be best that you install an inline pond heater to maintain a desirable temperature for the pond. Nevertheless, an inline heater is a costly option. Some Koi Fish enthusiasts will move their prize winning fish indoors for the season to a holding tank. This is another good option in extreme winter climates.

FAQs

How do you maintain?

Maintaining a pond might sound baffling at first, but as soon as you get the hold of it, things turn out pretty good.

Here are some essential steps to maintain a garden pond during all seasons.

1. Pond aerator
2. Manually clean the debris and pond waste
3. Monitor water temperature and pH balance
4. Avoid overcrowding the pond
5. Add beneficial bacteria
6. Use aquatic plants to naturally maintain the oxygen levels of your pond

Are ponds a lot of maintenance?

I would say, yes! Ponds need regular maintenance and upkeep weekly or monthly. The maintenance of your pond depends on the size, as smaller ponds are more prone to fluctuation in ecology and hence need regular cleaning to prevent debris and waste accumulation.

Large ponds need weekly or monthly maintenance, and at the beginning or end of the growing season.

How do you maintain water quality in a pond?

Maintaining water quality in a pond is not rocket science. You just need to follow the following tips to successfully maintain the water quality.

1. Examine oxygen levels to avoid algae blooms
2. Avoid overfeeding your fish to prevent waste accumulation
3. Add a proper and healthy balance of aquatic plants
4. Choose the right size of pond pump
5. Keep your pond cool during summer
6. Clean the debris before it starts to decay

How do I keep my natural pondsclean and clear?

The natural pond remains clean and clear if you target the root cause of the problem with a sustainable approach.

Natural pond products will transform your pond’s ecosystem, ultimately lowering your costs most effectively. I’m sharing some of the simple, easy, and natural steps to maintain your garden ponds.

1. Use algaecide or herbicide to control algae blooms
2. Control the accumulation of excess nutrients by using natural, beneficial bacteria and enzymes
3. Add aeration methods to treat several pond problems
4. Manage the amount of vegetation entering your pond
5. Maintenance is the key to naturally healthy, clean, and clear ponds

Final Thoughts

Garden ponds not only make everything look beautiful in your home interiors, but they also turn your home more earth-friendly. Therefore, it’s crucial to keep your ponds clean, healthy, and properly maintained throughout the year.

I’ve given you some great tips on how to keep your garden ponds clean, healthy, and properly maintained. If you have any other helpful pond maintenance tips that we haven’t covered here today, please share them in the comments below!
May 11, 2021

How To Care For Oranda Goldfish – A Complete Guide

Oranda Goldfish grow a fleshy head cap called a wen that requires monitoring and sometimes trimming. This is not a set-it-and-forget-it fish. The wen overflows and blocks vision or traps bacteria.

An oranda wen is its crown and its curse. The bigger it grows, the more problems it can hide.

If you are not prepared to monitor and potentially trim a wen, an oranda is not the right goldfish for you.

When you first bring home your new Oranda goldfish, it is overwhelming with all the things you have to do. You may worry about how much water to change each week and what kind of food to feed them. But don’t fret! I’m here to help!

I’ll teach you everything there is about caring for your Oranda goldfish – from tank size requirements and the best type of food, to proper feeding techniques and even a few tips on breeding fish. So get ready because we are about dive deep into this fascinating Goldfish!

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Oranda Goldfish. A

The biggest mistake I see with oranda goldfish. As is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

A Brief Overview Of The Oranda Goldfish

Scientific Name	Carassius auratus
Common Name (Species)	Oranda Goldfish
Family	Cyprinidae
Origin	China
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Active, social
Lifespan	Up to 15 years
Temperment	Peaceful
Tank Level	All Areas
Minimum Tank Size	30 Gallons
Temperature Range	65 – 72 Degrees F
KH	150
pH Range	6.0. 8.0
Filtration/Flow Rate	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layers, Easy to breed
Compatibility	Peace commuity species
Ok, For Planted Tanks?	With Research

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Oranda Goldfish
Scientific Name	Carassius auratus
Order	Cypriniformes
Family	Cyprinidae
Genus	Carassius
Species	C. Auratus

Origins and Habitat

The Oranda Goldfish is a beautiful and hardy cold water fish with an interesting history. Originating in China, this variety of goldfish was bred to resemble the Chinese Lion Dog. The lion dog features prominently on many pieces of art, furniture and jewelry as well as serving as guardian for the temples where it was kept!

They are descendants of Wild Carp and Goldfish (Carassius auratus). They are an artificially cultivated breed, also known as the Red Cap Oranda Goldfish. There are no Oranda Goldfish living in the wild, as they are raised in captivity. Their distant relative, the Prussian Carp, can still be found today in the slow-moving fresh waters of Central Asia.

What Does the Oranda Goldfish Look Like?

Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus are egg-shaped fish and is identified by the cap on their head. This is a series of outgrowths that is easily spotted and is also known as the “wen”. The head growth develops as the fish ages and normally starts appearing when the fish is four or five months old. They are different than a lionhead or Ranchu goldfish due to their dorsal fin.

There are different types and colors, with the most common being a shimmering yellow or orange Oranda. Some of the most distinctive Oranda Goldfish species are:

Black Oranda Goldfish: This is a stunning but sinister fish that’s completely black, including its black cap.
Blue Oranda: Goldfish These are extremely colorful fish that come in every shade of blue, from light, baby blue to vibrant, cobalt blue.
Red Cap Oranda Goldfish: This Oranda Goldfish is the most popular species. It’s completely white with a bright red cap that stands out. This fish breed comes from the aquarium Goldfish Carassius auratus.

How Big Are They?

Oranda Goldfish grow to around 6 or 7 inches. However, they have been known to grow to double this size in well-maintained tanks or ponds.

Most of the length of the fish is due to its tail fin, which is up to two-thirds of its length in some species. The largest Oranda Goldfish ever recorded was a whopping 14 inches long and named Bruce.

How Long Do They Live?

The life expectancy of an Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus is largely dependent on the care given and their surroundings.

These fancy Goldfish have a potential lifespan of between 10. 15 years but have been known to live beyond this, up to 20 years in some cases. Proper care will allow your fish to live beyond the average goldfish lifespan.

Temperament and Activity Level

Oranda Goldfish peaceful fish with a calm temperament. They keep themselves away from any trouble. They are social and friendly fish. They will get along with most other fish, especially other breeds of Goldfish Carassius auratus.

They are pretty active and will spend most of the day swimming around the tank. They’re great fish to observe, and you’ll never tire of watching them gracefully swimming, digging, and foraging.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

Oranda Goldfish are great tank mates and can live with most species, but some are better than others.

Good Tank Mates

These fish love spending time with other Oranda Goldfish or similar fancy Goldfish varieties. If you get other species, they should be able to live in the same living conditions and at the same water temperatures. Other fancy variety Cyprinid fish like the Pearlscale Goldfish or Catfish are other freshwater fish that are good tank mates for the Oranda Goldfish. They will also keep the tank clean and clean up after the Goldfish, which is a little messy.

Fish Species to Avoid

Small fish is mistaken as a snack for your Oranda Goldfish, so it’s best to avoid putting them together. You don’t want any fin-nippers that could cause damage to your beautiful Oranda, such as Neons, Mollies, or small Barbs.

Oranda Goldfish are not the quickest swimmers; they like to saunter rather than speed along. This isn’t ideal when racing against a speedy comet for lunch.

What Do They Eat?

Oranda Goldfish aren’t fussy eaters; they are omnivores and will eat pretty much anything. They is greedy and will eat whatever they can get in their mouths, including any small fish or invertebrates that may be in the tank.

They like to eat flake foods or pellets and will also eat nutritious spinach or salad. For staple pellet food, I recommend NorthFin Goldfish Food.

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What About Live Foods?

Your Oranda Goldfish needs a varied, balanced diet, and live foods are an excellent way to add to this. They like high protein foods, such as bloodworms, tubifex worms, brine shrimp, and daphnia.

How Much and How Often To Feed?

You should be careful not to overfeed your Oranda Goldfish as they don’t seem to have a full sensor and will just keep eating. Feed younger fish twice a day and adult fish just once a day.

Small portions are a good way to control how much your fancy Goldfish eats every mealtime.

Tank Requirements

The tank requirements for Oranda Goldfish are not restrictive, and they is kept quite simple in the right environment.

Tank Size

If you’re starting off with just one Oranda, make sure you have the right tank size. It should be at least 20 gallons for one fancy Goldfish. For every additional fancy Goldfish you add to the tank, you should increase the tank size by 10 gallons.

They aren’t speedy swimmers, but they do need lots of room, and they can grow quite big, quite quickly. They also create a lot of waste, so a larger tank will help to give a healthier environment for your fish.

Tank Setup

Oranda Goldfish aren’t fussy and don’t need much to keep them happy, so their tank setup is easy.

They need plenty of space when swimming around, and they have the wen on their head that may compromise their eyesight. With this in mind, you should not over-decorate the tank.

Oranda Goldfish like to dig, so make sure that the substrate you choose isn’t sharp and won’t harm them. Sand or rounded gravel is a good choice, and your fish will have hours of fun digging.

Freshwater plants are good to have, but these should be hardy as your fish will like to eat the plant leaves. They may also damage more fragile aquatic plants when digging and scattering the sand or gravel. Lighting for your tank isn’t necessary for the fish, but it may help with your live plants. Hardy plants that are column feeders like java fern do well in fish tanks with Orandas.

Water Quality

Oranda Goldfish are freshwater fish that is sensitive to water temperature. It’s essential to get the water conditions, quality, and temperature just right.

Filtration

Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus is mucky and create a lot of waste, so you need a good filtration system. An efficient filter will remove all toxins from the tank and keep the water clean.

However, your fish can become stressed by strong water movement, so keep this in mind when getting a filter. An adjustable flow outlet will help with this, or you can redirect the flow via the plants away from the swimming area. Due to their messy nature, filtration is one of the most important water parameters of oranda goldfish care.

Water Parameters

Oranda Goldfish like to be in cooler freshwater with a temperature between 65. 72 degrees Fahrenheit. They prefer a neutral pH level, which should be between 6.0. 8.0. The water hardness level should be between 4 and 20 dGH.

As long as you stick within these parameters, your fancy goldfish should live very comfortably.

Aquarium Maintenance

You should maintain your aquarium to a high standard to ensure that your fish are safe and healthy. To keep the water toxin-free and clean from waste, you should complete a 25. 30 percent water change each week and check the water hardness.

You can clean the glass of your tank with an algae magnet. Be careful not to remove all the biofilm and bacteria that make your biological filter effective. To clean the substrate, use an aquarium vacuum. This will pick up all the waste from your fish, any leftover food, and plant debris.

Your filter media should be cleaned in tank water once a month, depending on your water hardness, to get rid of all the sludge that builds up. This should be replaced as recommended by the manufacturer.

Test Water Conditions

To make sure that your water is kept to an optimal standard for your Oranda Goldfish, you should test it once a week before your weekly water change. You can buy strip tests or liquid tests to test your water. Strip tests are quick and easy to use, but liquid tests give a more accurate result.

The water conditions should be tested for the following content:

pH: This shows how acidic or alkaline the water is.
Ammonia: This is a byproduct of your fish’s waste and is highly toxic.
Nitrite: This is produced when ammonia is broken down and is toxic also.
Nitrate: I recommend you have no more than 40ppm of nitrate in your water.

How to Set Up Your Fish Tank

Once you have everything you need for your fish tank, you need to set it up ready for its new inhabitants. It should be set up to give your Oranda Goldfish the space, oxygen, and healthy lifestyle that they need.

How To Set Up a Fish Tank

The first thing you should do is clean the tank and wash the gravel that will go into the tank. They should be rinsed under running water to remove any dust or dirt. Then put a few inches of the gravel or other substrate into the tank. Once you have done this, place an upturned bowl on the substrate. You’ll soon find out why.

Before you add any water to the tank, you need to install the filter and heater, if required. Don’t switch these on just yet, though.

You then need to start adding dechlorinated tap water. Do this by pouring it over the upturned bowl so that the substrate doesn’t get moved all over the tank. Tap water alone is no good for your fish; you need to start the nitrogen cycle to make the water safe. A little liquid ammonia needs to be added to the water to start the cycle.

You can then add your decorations and live plants, making sure that these have been washed thoroughly. Plants should have any dead or damaged leaves removed before planting in the substrate. They is planted in pots or directly into the substrate.

The filter system should then be switched on and run 24/7. Live plants require light, so switch any lights on also. If you are looking for a power filter (AKA hang on back filter), the Hagen Aquaclear is my top recommendation.

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You’re almost ready, but not quite. You need to leave the tank as it is without adding any fish for at least 10 days. You should then test the water hardness to make sure that it’s suitable. All levels should be correct before adding any fish, or they won’t survive.

Once everything is at the right level, you can introduce your fancy Goldfish to their new home.

Health and Disease

Oranda Goldfish are pretty resistant to ill health. However, they sometimes get sick, so you need to know how to spot the signs and how to care for them.

Signs of Health

Oranda Goldfish are social fish and spend most of their day swimming around the tank. When not swimming, you can find them foraging in the gravel at the bottom of the tank or around the plants. Don’t forget feeding; the greedy Orandas are always on the lookout for food!

If they’re doing this, they are healthy fish, and you have nothing to worry about.

Signs of Ill Health

There are easy ways to tell if your Oranda is not feeling itself or is ill. The most common signs are:

Leaving food and not eating.
Rubbing its body on the substrate or plants.
Not socializing and avoiding its tank mates.
Staying at the water surface.
Sitting at the bottom of the tank.
Swimming on its side.
Sores or ulcers appearing on its skin.

If you spot any of these signs, check your fish out, as it is ill. Check out my freshwater fish disease post for info, care, and guides on how to cure common fish diseases.

Common Health Issues and Treatment

Goldfish Carassius auratus can suffer from several diseases. Some of these is treated quite easily, and your fish will make a full recovery.

The most common disease for Orandas is Ich, which is also known as white spot disease. This is an aquatic parasite that causes tiny white dots to appear on your fancy goldfish. The fish will rub against objects in the tank when affected. The treatment for this is to treat the water with an Ich medication.

Orandas can suffer from fungal infections where they have growths on their body. The affected Goldfish should be quarantined away from the other fish, and the water in their tank treated.

Here are other common diseases that Orandas suffer from:

Anchor worms
Fish lice
Bacterial infections
Swim bladder issues
External parasites
Fungal infection from wounds

In some varieties, they can suffer from their cap growing and obstructing their vision or preventing them from being able to eat. If this happens, pay a visit to your local pet store for medication that will help.

Breeding

It’s becoming more popular to breed Oranda Goldfish at home, which is easy to do. You should have a separate tank for the breeding pair of Orandas. There, you should recreate the same conditions as the main tank, with the addition of fine leaf plants. The Goldfish will then lay their eggs in the leaves of the plant.

Feed them plenty of live food before breeding. Once these fancy Goldfish are ready to breed, the color will intensify, and they will chase each other around the tank.

Female Goldfish Carassius auratus can lay in excess of 10,000 eggs over several hours. Once the eggs are laid, the adults must be removed from the tank straight away so as not to eat the goldfish fry. The eggs hatch in less than a week, and the fry should be fed liquid food. Once they are bigger, they is given baby brine shrimp.

Availability

Oranda Goldfish is found at any fish store or pet store, and they vary in price. They can cost from just a couple of dollars per fish to several hundred dollars for rare breeds, colors, or fancier varieties.

Oranda Goldfish

A great fancy goldfish. Readily available online and at most fish stores. Shop What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) Orandas in the click below!

Click For Best Price Buy From Petco Online

If you are looking for a specific color such as black or blue or rare variety of fancy Goldfish Carassius auratus species, it’s best to contact an online store with a specialty. However, these will be more expensive than your standard colors. Make sure that you know what you are buying before adding it to your cart. For a guide on the best places to back fish online, check out my guide. You can also shop on this link for WYSIWYG Orandas!

What You Need to Buy

Things that you need to buy in the store to give your fancy Goldfish a healthy life would be:

Tank. Minimum of 20 gallons for one fancy Goldfish Carassius auratus.
Filter system – power filter or canister filter
Heater (for cold climates) and lighting
Algae magnet
Aquarium vacuum
Substrate
Plants and decorations
Water testing kits

FAQs

What size tank do they need?

Oranda Goldfish need at minimum a 20 gallon tank. While that is the bare minimum, the recommended is at least 30 gallons. A 30 gallon fish tank will allow for more space for your goldfish to grow and thrive.

How Long Do They Live?

, an Oranda Goldfish will live up to 15 years in an aquarium environment. There have been cases of these fish actually living longer – in larger tanks or well maintained indoor ponds.

Are They Aggressive?

Oranda goldfish are not aggressive fish. They are pretty docile and will not act aggressively towards other fish. However, they are foragers. They will pick on animals with barbels like axolotls. This isn’t because they are aggressive, it’s because it’s their nature to forage.

Do They Need A Heater?

Oranda Goldfish do not need an aquarium heater. They are coldwater fish and will do well in more home. If anything, the worry with goldfish is in hot climates in the summer where the room temperature can raise to over 78 degrees. In those cases, it is best to consider getting fans or an aquarium chiller to lower the temperature.

Is the Oranda Goldfish. A Right for You?

Before you add a oranda goldfish. A to your tank, it’s worth asking whether this species actually fits your setup and your goals. Here’s a quick breakdown to help you decide.

This species is a good fit if:

You have a large enough tank to manage territories. Cramped conditions amplify aggression.
You’re comfortable managing aggression through stocking ratios, line of sight breaks, and tank layout.
You can commit to regular water changes. These fish produce more waste than many smaller species.
You’re not planning a peaceful community tank. Oranda Goldfish. As need tank mates that can hold their own.
You enjoy watching active, interactive fish. Cichlids have personality that smaller species simply don’t match.
You have backup plans. Sometimes a particular fish just doesn’t work out, and you need a way to rehome it.
You’re feeding a varied, high-quality diet. Color and health depend on nutrition.

If most of those points line up with your setup, the oranda goldfish. A is worth serious consideration. If several don’t, it’s better to choose a species that matches your tank now rather than trying to make it work.

How the Oranda Goldfish. A Compares to Similar Species

Choosing between similar species is tricky. Here’s how the oranda goldfish. A stacks up against some common alternatives.

The oranda goldfish. A occupies a specific niche in the aquarium hobby, and direct comparisons really depend on what you’re looking for. In my experience, the most common question people ask is whether they should choose the oranda goldfish. A or something similar that’s more widely available. The answer comes down to three things: tank size, water parameters, and what other fish you’re keeping. If your setup matches what the oranda goldfish. A needs, it’s hard to beat. If not, there are alternatives worth exploring.

Closing Thoughts

The Oranda Goldfish Carassius auratus is a diverse fish that comes in all colors and sizes. It looks stunning in your aquarium with its vibrant colors, huge head, and flowing fins.

These fancy Goldfish are easy to care for when looked after properly, and they could live for many years. Whether you choose a black or red cap

We hope you found our guide helpful, and it helps you get started with your new aquarium of beautiful Orandas. If you want a bigger deep dive on goldfish in general, check out my goldfish care guide.

May 9, 2021

How to Get Rid of Pond Scum: Root Causes and What Actually Works
Pond scum is one of those problems that sneaks up on you. the water looks fine one week, and the next you’ve got a layer of green or brown slime coating the surface. I’ve dealt with it in my own outdoor setups, and I can tell you it’s almost always a nutrient issue at the root. Once you identify what’s feeding it, the solution becomes a lot more straightforward than most guides make it out to be.

Pond scum is almost always a nutrient problem first and an algae problem second. The algae is just taking advantage of conditions you’ve created. too much fish waste, overfeeding, decomposing leaves sitting at the bottom. I see pond keepers chase it with treatments and UV sterilizers when the real fix is cutting off the nutrient source. That said, once you’re in the middle of a bloom, there’s a smart order of operations to get things back under control. Here’s what actually works, starting with root causes.

In this article, I’ll discuss the causes of pond scum, types of different algae, and preventive measures to control pond scum in your garden ponds.

Causes of Pond Scum

The causes of pond scum are the high level of specific nutrients, excessive daylight, and warm temperatures.

Excess nutrients, including fish waste, decaying vegetation, and fertilizers, can enter the water and feed algae, resulting in rapid multiplication of algae.

Excessive daylight is also the prime cause of pond scum, as clear shallow ponds are the breeding ground for algae forms.

Low levels of oxygen and warm temperature are also the culprits of pond scum.

To cater to these causes, pond or fountain filters must be properly maintained with the right size to prevent pond scum.

Also, limiting the number of nutrients that enter your pond should be controlled. Try to manually skim the debris and waste from a pond and remove the algae. You can also install an effective filtration system to prevent scum.

Direct sunlight adds to the pond scum. Therefore, pond dye and aquatic plants, including water iris or water lilies, should be added to reduce algae growth.

Types of Algae

There is a variety of pond algae. However, not all of them are harmful to your ponds. Some algae are beneficial that clings on the sides of your pond, producing oxygen during the day and utilize nutrients in the water. Furthermore, they provide nutrition to your pond fish.

Pond algae are divided into three primary forms; filamentous, macrophytic, and planktonic.

Filamentous Algae

Filamentous algae (Picture Source), also hair-like algae, are the most common types of algae, eerie filaments, and attach themselves to the pond’s bottom floor or rocks and aquatic plants. When the filamentous algae grow rapidly, it breaks free and floats on the surface in the form of thick algae mats or pond scum.

Filamentous algae is further classified into spirogyra, Cladophora and Pithophora.

The prevention and control of filamentous algae mats in garden ponds are easy, provided the proper treatment and early diagnosis. Depriving the filamentous algae with favorable conditions, such as nutrients and temperature, helps to control their growth and reduce the chances of potential damage to your pond and aquatic plants.

Chara

If there is a horrible onion-like smell in your pond, this is likely due to the presence of Chara algae.

Chara these freshwater algae forms grow on the bottom of the pond floor. Chara is usually misunderstood as a weed. However, it lacks roots and does not grow above the water surface.

Oscillatoria

The red-purple or bluish tint in your pond is because of Oscillotoria.

It’s freshwater, blue-green algae (cyanobacteria) that thrive in hot water springs. Oscillatoria forms blue-green mats on the bottom of the water surface. However, when they multiply, provided favorable conditions, they release and float at the water surface, making the water appear brackish.

Planktonic/Microscopic Algae

The normal production or presence of Planktonic algae is healthy for your pond as they supply your pond with dissolved oxygen, mandatory for the health of your pond and aquatic life.

However, during summers, the planktonic algae bloom, giving your pond a pea-soup coloration, and that’s when you should take preventive measures to control the plankton algae.

Since they are unicellular and multiply rapidly, you cannot detect them with your naked eye. Some common types of Planktonic algae are Chlamydomonas, chlorella, and euglena species.

How To Control Algae Naturally?

If you’re someone who doesn’t want to use chemicals, there are natural ways to control algae. The most effective ones are good water quality, pond aeration, the addition of beneficial bacteria, and the use of ultrasonic algae control.

Aeration

Ponds experts recommend using pond aeration methods to improve the overall appearance and health of the pond. Aeration will also curb pond scum growth.

To facilitate pond aeration for large ponds, the use of a land-based compressor is encouraged, which boosts the level of dissolved oxygen in your garden pond.

For Large Ponds

Patriot Pond Pro

The Pond Pro is a land based compressor that works to aerate large ponds and lakes

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For smaller to mid-sized Koi or Goldfish ponds, you can utilize aeration pumps, fountains, or an oxygenator.

Best For Small To Mid-Sized Ponds

Aquascape Aeration Kit

This aeration kit is a great way to get added much needed aeration to your pond to prevent pond scum

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Adding Beneficial Bacteria

The bacteria level in your pond should be maintained to control the situation.
1. It is recommended to add beneficial bacteria in ponds where the bacterial count is low
2. You can add the bacteria in liquid or powder form. Either way, they have the same function, i.e., to eliminate the pond algae and pond scum by lowering the nutrient content of the water
3. Beneficial bacteria works the best to maintain the cleanliness of your pond if supported by the aeration method. Therefore, pond aeration is the primary requirement. Many DIY Pond Kits have both a filtration and aeration component.
Great For Ponds!

PondWorx Pond Bacteria

This product is great for removing muck and nutrients from your pond rocks and surface. A great preventative for pond scum

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Ultrasonic Algae Control

An advanced technology that has done wonders to control specific types of algae and pond scum in your pond is the use of ultrasonics.
1. The process works by sending sound waves through water that vibrates every algae in the pond. The vibrations eventually damage the algae cell, and it dies
2. Ultrasonic algae control tends to eliminate the algae alone. However, it can also be integrated with beneficial bacteria and aeration to control the algae blooms and pond scum.
A common install is an Aquascape IonGen for smaller ponds. Large ponds and lakes would look more into a commercial solution, of which KLM Solutions is the go to brand.

Low Cost Ultrasonic

Aquascape IonGen

The Aquascape IonGen is a great low cost ultrasonic that will work in most ponds

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Product Recommendations to prevent Algae Blooms

I have faced the problems of algae blooms and pond scum in my garden ponds, and so I know how badly it affects your pond ecosystem and the overall appearance.

However, I’ve tried two products and never looked back since then. I recommend using API Pond- Zyme Sludge destroyer and Cabin Obsession Pond Sludge remover to prevent algae blooms in your pond. Both work great against pond scum

But please be informed that not all ponds have the same response to the treatment

API Pond-Zyme Sludge Destroyer

Great For Small Ponds

API Pond-Zyme

This is a readily available product that works to remove sludge from your pond. Available at most pet stores

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If you own a Koi or Goldfish Pond, you’d know that springs bring generous algae blooms and a foul smell that is a distraction for your visitors.

Luckily, the API pond-zyme sludge destroyer works like a charm in gulping the sludge and improves water clarity. It has pond cleaner with natural pond bacteria and barley, which breaks down fish waste and destroys pond scum and sludge effectively.

If you keep using this product religiously, I reckon it would save you a lot of money on pond maintenance and cleanliness.

Cabin Obsession Sludge Remover

Great For Large Ponds

Cabin Obsessions Pond Sludge Remover

This sludge remover is great for large ponds and lakes. A commercial level product at a consumer price

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If you’d like to deepen your pond naturally without dredging, Cabin Obsession Pond Sludge Remover is a total steal!

It removes around 2 inches of sludge by releasing concentrated enzymes and bacteria that gulp the organic waste and destroy the muck, up to 2 inches per month. The product is all-natural and hence safe to use for fish and other aquatic life.

Cabin Obsession Pond Sludge Remover is the most affordable solution for your pond’s maintenance needs for large ponds. It comes in a bucket that would last you approximately 10 months of regular pond maintenance.

This allows you to get rid of the foul-smelling odors, ugly shorelines, and layers of pond scum with just a bucket of goodness.

FAQS

How do I get rid of pond-scum?

The easiest ways to get rid of pond scum are 1) Improve oxygen levels of your pond by proper aeration methods 2) Add aquatic plants 3) Make use of the organic, environmentally-friendly algaecide to treat your ponds 4)Reduce the use of fertilizers

What is the brown scum?

It’s pond scum. Pond scum is usually black or brown, and a slimy, sticky substance that accumulates at the bottom of your ponds. It is nothing but the decaying waste in the form of fish debris, grass clippings, dead algae. It acts as a fertilizer for the harmful pond algae, so you should treat it promptly to prevent the layers of muck from developing on the pond surface.

What causes green scum on ponds?

The green color comes from the presence of single-cell planktons in your pond, giving it a pea-soup coloration.

What does ponds scum eat?

Pond scum is algae, and algae do not consume any plants or animals. The source of nourishment for algae is sunlight, warm temperatures, and excess nutrients within your water.

How Do I Keep My Water Crystal Clear?

You should take baby steps to keep the pond water crystal clear

1) Do not overfeed your fish to prevent the accumulation of waste
2) Add lots of aquatic plants to improve oxygen levels
3) Facilitate aeration methods
4) Use beneficial bacteria to eliminate the plankton that turns the water green1)
5) Remove the debris and waste manually after feeding your fish
6) Use environmentally-friendly algaecide to keep the water clear and pond scum free

Final Thoughts

Pond scum can be a nuisance if you don’t treat it timely and maintain your pond’s ecosystem. Don’t forget to aerate your ponds and add a large biofilter to keep healthy water quality and less stressful for your aquatic life. Also, the products you use should be environmentally friendly and organic, safe to use in ponds and lakes. If you have any questions about dealing with pond scum, leave us a comment below.
May 8, 2021
7 Best Pond Fish: My Picks and the Popular Choices I’d Actually Avoid
Picking pond fish isn’t as simple as grabbing whatever looks good at the garden center. Climate is the variable most people underestimate. a fish that thrives in a mild-winter climate can die in a harsh one, and I’ve seen that mistake made more times than I can count. There are also a couple of very popular fish that regularly end up in ponds and simply don’t belong there. In this guide I’ll walk through the 7 pond fish I’d actually recommend and explain why a few of the crowd favorites are worth skipping.

The 7 Best Pond Fish

Using my years of experience, I’m listing the 7 best pond fish that stood the test of time, regardless of weather conditions or other circumstances.

1. Koi

My Pick!

Next Day Koi

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It wouldn’t be wrong to say that the Koi are the king of ponds.

With their beautiful, colorful, and cylindrical bodies flexing gracefully, the Koi fish is a treat for sore eyes.

As for outdoor ponds, Koi is a perfect fit since it tends to grow very large if kept in optimal water conditions. Also, they are robust and strong fish that can withstand extreme winter and summer. However, while keeping Koi, consider the regular maintenance and upkeep of your ponds as they are much larger and difficult to maintain as compared to aquariums.

If you’re considering Koi for your garden ponds, you should know the following factors.

Cost

In the case of Koi, “The more costly, the rarer and less defective.”

Koi fish range from $15 for young to thousands of dollars for adult Koi or rare fish species. However, the price makes up for their extended lifespan. Koi, in healthy ponds, can live generally 25 – 35 years, provided that they are given nutritious food and quality water.

Size

Koi needs an Enriched Diet and a large environment to grow healthily and happily.

The ideal size for Koi ponds should be over 1000 gallons and three feet deep to provide the fish with everything they need. Most Koi Pond Kits are designed to build koi ponds to these specs

Additionally, if you’re planning to keep a shoal of fish, you will probably need a pond with over 3000 gallons.

Filtration System

The best thing about Koi is its hardiness against extreme conditions.

However, still, they are living beings that demand basic care and attention, you will need some additional installments, such as a pond filter to keep your pond Koi-friendly.

Protection in the Water

Koi are largely susceptible to predators and so you will need to cover your garden ponds with netting or electric fencing.

The best budget-friendly option is the addition of aquatic plants to provide shelter from the direct scorching heat of the Sun or deterring predators. Have your pond at least 3 feet deep is also great at keeping predators from getting to your prized pets.

That’s pretty much the gist of what you should consider before buying Koi fish for your garden ponds.

Still interested? I recommend purchasing your beautiful and healthy Koi with Next Day Koi that offers a broad variety of Koi at affordable prices.

2. Goldfish

Like Koi, Goldfish also appreciates wholesome, well-aerated outdoor ponds.

Goldfish are small, hardy fish that does well in extreme temperatures. Hence, the perfect choice for your garden ponds. I recommend keeping the following important points in mind before going for Goldfish for your garden ponds.

Proper Location

Since Goldfish are cold water fish, you should provide a decent shade to your pond for maintaining the water temperature. However, in colder climates, there’s no need to cover the ponds as the warmth of sun perfectly balances the pond environment.

Size

The size of your outdoor pond should accommodate around 20 gallons of water per goldfish. Since Goldfish are smaller in size than Koi, they do pretty well in medium-sized ponds. However, make sure the fish swims freely without bumping into other mates or ornaments.

For Goldfish, a pond depth of 18 inches is all that is needed. They will do well in 3 feet deep ponds, they are just less demanding then Koi.

Water filter system

A good filtration system is essential for Goldfish ponds that deal with waste or leftovers to avoid spikes in toxic nutrient levels and stress. Most pond kits come with high quality filtration systems.

Mates

Goldfish are very social, docile, and amiable creatures that relish the presence of other fish. However, if you have got a pond already occupied with Koi, it’s better to examine the size of your Koi before getting Goldfish, as mature Koi sized with juvenile Goldfish usually don’t get along with and might end up killing them.

All in all, Goldfish need care, love, and dedication with water temperatures around 65 and 72 degrees Fahrenheit to thrive in your outdoor pond. Personally, my favorite is the Shubunkin Goldfish.

3. Chinese High-Fin Banded Sharks

High Fin banded sharks are a popular freshwater fish species that are extremely unique and a must-have for pond keepers. And even though their name might scare you, trust me!

High Fin Banded sharks are not sharks at all!

There are your usual algae-eating freshwater fish with just a single row of pharyngeal teeth. We call them sharks because they have a long sharp-like fin at the top, which gives them a striking resemblance to the mighty sharks.

However, know that they require a larger pond area as they grow about 1.35 m (4 ft 5 in). Furthermore, the markings on High Fin banded sharks are majestic, making it a rewarding choice for your ponds.

They are difficult to find locally. I recommend purchasing online through one of the Best Online Fish Stores on my list.

4. Golden Tench

If you want friendly mates in the pond for your Koi, you should try Golden Tench (Source Pic).

Commonly known as the doctor fish, Golden Tench makes sure no fish in the pond falls ill. Legend has it, that the skin of Golden Tench contains an antibiotic that protects other fish from diseases.

I don’t claim that’s true, however, I know for the fact that Golden Tench cleans up water, which ultimately helps other fish to remain healthy in the pond.

Also, Golden Tench are tough fish and their life expectancy is around 15 – 20 years, making it a great fit for your garden ponds.

Here are some things you should consider before buying Golden Tench.
1. The depth of your pond should be at least 28 inches
2. Your pond should hold a good amount of aquatic plants to keep Golden Tench happy
3. It’s never a good idea to overcrowd your pond when keeping Golden Tench
5. Sturgeon

Sturgeon, an easy-going fish that may reach the age of over 50 or 100 years. They are popular in larger ponds and waterscapes.

At first glance, Sturgeon can be misunderstood with sharks – stronger and bigger with their mouths, underside. However, they are sensitive to sharp gravels and sand in the bottom of the pond.

The Sturgeon requires a large pond with proper filtration because they prefer a strong current. Also, a sturgeon needs special feed that sinks to the bottom with a strong odor that looks like natural feed.

If you’re thinking to get sturgeon as a beautiful pet for your ponds, here’s what you should consider.
1. Keep the bottom of the pond clean because Sturgeons are bottom inhabitants, and so the accumulated dirt may cause gasification, causing harm to the fish.
2. The Sturgeons require frequent feedings. They cannot digest most plant proteins so they need a high fish meal or shrimp meal content.
3. Your pond should have a depth of at least 50 inches with minimal aquatic plants
All in all, there’s a rule of thumb to determine your pond size for Sturgeons; keep the pond size 10 times larger than the size of your fish to ensure maximum safety and health.

6. Minnows

Minnows (picture source) are small fish that are great for smaller or patio pond setups. For large ponds, if you want your other pond fish to feed on something naturally, Minnows are a good choice. Minnows are an excellent source of food for other bigger pond fish that can live up to seven years and keep your pond ecosystem clean by eating larvae, reducing algae growth, and adding movement into your pond.

Out of various types of Minnows, the fathead minnow and white cloud mountain minnow the best suited for outdoors.

Fathead Minnow

Fathead Minnows display an appearance of light green or grey with a hazy spot on their dorsal fin. Fathead Minnows feed on insects, crustaceans, and zooplankton (algae), keeping your ponds clean and inviting for other fish. Therefore, they are suitable for outdoor ponds where the growth of algae is at its peak. Fathead Minnows are hardy creatures and can withstand extreme temperatures.

White Cloud Minnow

White cloud minnows are the smallest minnows you would ever find that grow up to 1.5 inches only. With their shiny green appearance and bright red fins, they add a moving effect to your backyard ponds.

Aquarists and pond owners usually keep white cloud minnow in ponds meant for frogs to be bred. White cloud minnows are omnivorous and feed on insect larvae and other aquatic plants.

Even though minnows are usually used for bait in garden ponds, there are a few things you should consider while choosing Minnows.
1. Minnows need plenty of Oxygen. Hence, installing an oxygenator or waterfall is highly recommended
2. Minnows are tiny fish and so they don’t need large ponds to survive
3. Add lots of aquatic plants to provide shelter for your Minnows and to maintain the water temperature.
4. Occasional food and treats increase the likelihood of fish survival. You can feed them fish flakes every once or twice a week
7. Guppies

Guppies are small, bright fish species that thrive in outdoor pond as well as an aquarium.

Despite their small size, Guppies take up a lot of space for nonstop swimming hours. Since guppies are tropical fish, they enjoy warm waters with a temperature tolerance of up to 68°F (20°C). Therefore, your garden pond would keep them happy as long as it’s not chilly outside.

The peak months to keep your Guppies in the outdoor pond is between April and October when the water is warm enough to keep the fish healthy.

Even though you can keep Guppies in aquariums, they enjoy garden ponds as they are avid and active swimmers. Another advantage to keeping Guppies in ponds is that they receive more sunlight and nutritious food, keeping their skins bright and more colorful than ever.

Therefore, if you love small pond fish that add life to your pond, I suggest that you go for Guppies. There are a few things you should know about before considering Guppies as your pond inhabitant.
1. Guppies enjoy clean water and so, the water filter is a must
2. If you’re looking for long-term investment, note that they might not be the best choice because of their low life expectancy. 1 to 3 years
3. Guppies are small fish species, but they require ample space for swimming around the pond, which makes them highly suitable for pond life
4. Guppies are easy prey for the predators. Much larger pond fish will eat them
5. You would need a fishnet to inspect the Guppies for potential diseases or overall health
What You Should Avoid

I know you might not agree with my disapproval of these fish species because they are popularly kept in garden ponds for so long.

Know that it’s not that I’m completely against keeping these fish species, it’s just that I don’t find it suitable for pond life.

1. Fancy Goldfish

Fancy Goldfish

Fancy goldfish come in a variety of types and make great aquatic pets. Check out these What You See Is What You Get (WYSIWYG) goldfish in the link below!

Click For Best Price Buy From Petco Online

Fancy goldfish like Orandas have long, flowy fins with celestial color patterns to keep the visitors in awe. However, No matter how ‘fancy’ it gets, keeping fancy variants in ponds is a no-no.

I’ll tell you why.

Fancy goldfish are known for their slow, clumsy nature which is ill-suited for outdoor ponds, especially if you have other fish in the pond, such as Koi or single-tailed goldfish. Koi and non-fancy Goldfish will outcompete Fancy Goldfish for food. They are slow swimmers and will get left behind, starving for food. They are also highly prone to infections and diseases.

All in all, their fins are delicate that are easily damaged by other pond fish.

Therefore, I strictly advise you to avoid fancy goldfish and pick other hardy counterparts.

2. Catfish

Keeping aquatic plants in ponds is every aquarist’s dream, and so is mine.

Which is what makes Catfish a bad fit for a pond. That’s because they are voracious eaters and destroy aquatic plants, turning the water cloudy with debris and plant waste.

FAQS

What kind can I group together in the water?

You have to look and research for fish that are hardy and can survive extreme temperatures. Also, fish that can adapt to indoor-outdoor life easily are highly recommended for ponds. Additionally, the temperament of fish matters the most as not every fish gets along with others really well.

The best pond fish are:
1.Koi
2.Goldfish
3.Chinese High Fin Shark
4.Golden Tench
5.Sturgeon
6.Minnows
7.Guppies

What kind can live in small outdoor water areas?

For small ponds, choose a variety of fish that is small and doesn’t require much space for swimming, For very small ponds Fathead Minnows and guppies are a good choice. Goldfish are also a great addition to smaller outdoor ponds.

What type can survive winter?

The fish that can survive winters in outdoor ponds are

1.Goldfish
2.Fathead Minnows
3.Koi

Can aquarium fish survive in this type of water?

Absolutely they can if provided with the right pond ecosystem and water conditions. Even though this factor varies from fish to fish, aquarium fish are usually tropical, therefore prefer warmer temperatures.

As long as you maintain the water temperatures, your aquarium fish should thrive in a pond.

What kind can live with a goldfish?

Goldfish is suitable for ponds and makes the best mates with the following two pond fish.
1.White cloud minnows
2.Young Koi

Final Thoughts

Fish are graceful, scaly creatures that add colors to your backyard ponds. Pond fish, despite being healthy and hardy, need some extra and special care regarding their habitat and food.

In this article, I’ve listed seven of the best pond fish species with their recommended care to add value to your pond.
May 2, 2021

Shubunkin Goldfish: The Complete Care Guide to the Pond Keeper’s Favorite

The Shubunkin Goldfish: The is not a beginner fish. It is a cold-water species that produces enormous waste, needs real filtration, and outgrows most tanks within a year. I have kept goldfish in ponds and large tanks for over 25 years. Here is the honest care guide most people need before buying one.

A goldfish in a bowl is not thriving. It is slowly suffocating.

Goldfish live 10 to 15 years, sometimes longer. This is a decade-long commitment to large water volumes, heavy filtration, and consistent maintenance.

A goldfish kept properly is more impressive than most tropical fish. The problem is almost nobody keeps them properly.

What Most Care Guides Get Wrong About Shubunkin Goldfish

The biggest mistake I see with shubunkin goldfishs is underestimating their aggression. Guides will label them “semi-aggressive” and move on. In practice, that label doesn’t tell you much. Tank layout, stocking density, and territory management all play a huge role in whether these fish coexist or constantly fight. Tank size is another area where most guides get it wrong. The minimum listed on most care sheets is exactly that, a minimum. For long-term success, especially if you’re keeping a group, I always recommend going at least one size up from whatever the guide suggests. Finally, diet gets oversimplified. Pellets alone won’t cut it. In my 25+ years keeping fish, I’ve found that variety in diet directly affects color, growth, and overall vitality. Include frozen foods, quality pellets, and occasional vegetable matter for the best results.

The Reality of Keeping Shubunkin Goldfish: The

Tank size requirements are not negotiable. A single fancy goldfish needs at minimum 20 gallons. A single-tail variety like a comet needs 40 gallons minimum, and realistically belongs in a pond. The one-gallon-per-inch rule does not apply to goldfish.

Filtration needs to be oversized. Goldfish produce more ammonia than tropical fish of the same size. Your filter should be rated for at least double your actual tank volume. A 40-gallon tank with goldfish needs filtration rated for 75 to 100 gallons.

They are cold-water fish that do not need heaters. Goldfish thrive between 65 and 72 degrees. Putting them in a heated tropical tank stresses them and shortens their lifespan. Room temperature water is fine for most homes.

Biggest Mistake New Owners Make

Putting a goldfish in a small bowl or tank without filtration. Goldfish produce massive amounts of waste. Without proper filtration, ammonia levels spike within days and the fish suffers organ damage long before it shows visible symptoms.

Expert Take

The best goldfish keepers I know run heavy filtration and do large weekly water changes. There is no shortcut or trick that replaces those two fundamentals.

A Brief Overview Of The Shubunkin

Scientific Name	Carassius auratus
Common Name (Species)	Shubunkin Goldfish
Family	Cyprinidae
Origin	Japan
Diet	Omnivore
Care Level	Easy
Activity	Active, social
Lifespan	Up to 30 years
Temperment	Peaceful
Tank Level	All Areas
Minimum Tank Size	75 Gallons
Temperature Range	65 – 72 Degrees F
KH	150
pH Range	6.0. 8.0
Filtration/Flow Rate	Moderate
Water Type	Freshwater
Breeding	Egg-layers, Easy to breed
Compatibility	Peace commuity species
Ok, For Planted Tanks?	With Research

Classification

Taxonomic Rank	Classification
Common Name	Shubunkin Goldfish
Scientific Name	Carassius auratus
Order	Cypriniformes
Family	Cyprinidae
Genus	Carassius
Species	C. Auratus

Origins and Habitat

Shubunkin Goldfish are also known as Calico Goldfish, meaning multicolored. As a type of Goldfish (Carassius auratus), they’re descendants from the wild carp living in Asia today and were first bred in Japan. The Shubunkin earns its name from a town in Japan called Shubuta where they were first bred. These fish were first brought into the West in 1882 by James Meehan, who was a curator at the London Zoo.

As for habitat, Shubunkins are a member of the Cyprinidae family, which means they like to live in slow rivers, lakes, ditches, or ponds. In Asia, fish kept in ponds have a habitat moderately decorated with plastic plants, driftwood, and rocks.

What Does They Look Like?

The Shubunkin is similar to the Common Goldfish and the Comet Goldfish in appearance and is crossbred from these two, as well as the Calico Telescope Eye Goldfish. They have nacreous scales which are pearly in appearance and look like a mix between transparent and metallic scales.

The Calico Goldfish has overlapping patches of white, gray, red, black, and blue colors that is seen on their long, flowing tail fins. The most valued color of a Shubukin is blue, and this is also the rarest color. These fish are heavily spotted as well.

, people divide Shubunkins into three different types:

London

The London Shubunkin goldfish has a slender body and shorter tails that are more rounded, similar to the Common Goldfish.

American

The American Shubunkin is also known as the Japanese Shubunkin. An American Shubunkin has longer fins and a sharper fork tail, and looks more like Comet Goldfish than the other types.

Bristol

The Bristol Shubunkin is quite rare and has a B-shaped tail that stands out. Also, the Bristol Shubunkin be longer and broader than other types.

Shubunkin Goldfish Vs. Koi

Below is a good reference video from J Lo on the difference between Shubunkin Goldfish and Koi. As you can see, the Shubunkin compliments as Koi with it’s varied color and fin shapes. They look amazing together in a pond! In some Koi keeping circles, the Shubunkin is often label a “poor man’s Koi”. The way I see it, they remind me of Butterfly Koi and allow you to keep the purity of the Koi line if you do not want to stick to Traditional Koi.

How Big Are They?

One common feature among the Goldfish freshwater species is that they grow based on their surroundings., Shubunkin Goldfish reach a size between 6. 12 inches, but if you keep them in a small space, they’ll be smaller.

These are excellent pond fish as well, since they can grow up to 14. 18 inches if they have enough room, and there have even been reports of them reaching lengths beyond 18 inches.

How Long Do They Live?

Depending on their environment, Shubunkin Goldfish are hardy fish and have a lifespan of 10. 15 years with proper care.

Shubunkins that are kept in ponds live even longer since they have lots of space to explore and live a happy life. Some even have a lifespan of up to 30 years.

Temperament and Activity Level

These fish are super social and like to hang out in groups. They’ll likely spend their days exploring their aquarium or pond, meaning that they’re very active. Like most Goldfish species, they’re fast swimmers and do well paired with other fast-swimming fish.

They also like to eat whatever they can get their hands (or mouths) on, and they often scavenge for food at the bottom of the tank. Therefore, the only type of aggression you might encounter with Shubunkins is that they’re quick to steal food.

What Are Good Tank Mates?

While they can live alone, the Shubunkin thrives in tanks with other fish, and they make a good addition to community tanks. Some species suit them better than others, however.

Good Tank Mates

These quick swimmers pair well with other fast-moving fish that thrive in cooler waters as the Shubunkin does. They do well with other species of Goldfish as well as many other species. Here are some suggestions for fish to pair with your Shubunkin Goldfish:

Fish Species to Avoid (Bad Tank Mates)

Since Shubunkin Goldfish will steal as much food as they can manage, it’s best not to pair them with slow-moving and shy species, as they might have a hard time getting enough nutrition.

For the more experienced fish owner, you can pair your Shubunkin with slower swimmers as well. Just make sure to watch and feed your fish at different times, starting with the fast ones and then moving onto the slower ones.

Shubunkin Goldfish don’t pair well with aggressive fish such as Tiger Barbs or Cichlids since they don’t like fighting. They also do not pair well with Fancy Goldfish because they are very fast compared to them. Fancy goldfish will struggle to eat enough with an athletic Shubunkin in the tank or pond.

Finally, some tropical fish species might not be the best mates for Shubunkin, since they prefer cooler waters.

What Do They Eat?

Shubunkins are omnivores and eat almost anything you drop into the water. But for them to get all the nutrition they need, it’s best to feed them high-quality dried food such as flakes and pellets.

Another great thing is that these fish are scavengers and will eat up whatever they can find at the bottom of the tank, such as plant material and detritus. Just they might uproot live plants while they’re at it.

What About Live Foods?

Like all types of Goldfish, Shubunkin feed on insects and small crustaceans. Some live or frozen foods to feed them occasionally include Daphnia, blood worms, tubifex worms, krill, and brine shrimp.

How Much and How Often to Feed

You should feed your Goldfish twice a day and give them as much as they can eat for two minutes each time. For the everyday staple meal, pellets or flakes are your best choices. Occasionally, they should also get a treat in the form of live or frozen food.

Once or twice a week, you can also give them some fresh vegetables from your kitchen, such as spinach, lettuce, or cucumber, but peel and blanch them first.

Tank Requirements

While the Goldfish Shubunkin is rather easy to take care of, you need to consider the type of tank it’s going to live in as well as how to decorate it.

Tank Size

There is lots of misleading information out there in regards to keeping a Goldfish. While your Shubunkin Goldfish will stay alive in a tank that’s 15. 20 gallons, it’s too small for them to live a healthy life. Instead, you should invest in an aquarium that’s with a minimum tank size of 75 gallons to give them room to swim and search for food.

As your fish will grow depending on how much space it has to move around in, the bigger the tank, the better. Shubunkins live the happiest in wide-open spaces where they can roam around and are great to keep as pond fish.

If you add more fish to your aquarium, remember to increase the tank size by 10. 15 gallons per new member. A 75-gallon tank should only keep one Shubunkin Goldfish.

Tank or Pond Setup

Since this Goldfish type lives in slow-moving rivers or lakes, you want to make sure that your tank has low to moderate water movement. Speaking, a water filtration system provides enough movement in the tank. You can invest in some air stones if you wish to help keep the oxygen at reasonable levels.

Shubunkins aren’t picky, and most substrate works with this fish. The best choice is medium-sized gravel since they’ll be able to sift through this material and look for food. You can also opt for a bare bottom pond, a favorite setup for Koi Pond setups and for ease of cleaning.

You can also invest in some underwater live plants for a more natural-looking habitat. This fish is a quick eater, so it’s likely to unroot almost anything you plant. Your best bet here is fast-growing plants such as Hornwort, Java Fern, and Anacharis.

In terms of other decorations, Shubunkins aren’t picky and won’t mind plastic or silicone plants. The most important thing for them is to have a good amount of swimming space, so you can use some driftwood or rocks in your tank or pond but keep it minimal.

Finally, you need to provide a sufficient amount of light. This will help your Shubunkin Goldfish maintain its natural sleeping pattern. There are many tanks on the market that have built-in LED lights with different settings for day and night that is a good investment.

Water Quality

Filtration

The Shubunkin is a messy fish and has a high waste load, which means that you need a good filtration system in your pond or tank. Your best bet is a filter with biological media. Without a filter, nitrate and ammonia levels in the water might reach unhealthy levels. However, also remember make that water change frequent and clean the tank or pond.

When picking a filter, look for one that can clean all the water in your tank or pond. If it lacks in this aspect, you’ll end up with unfiltered water. I recommend a high quality power filter or opt for a canister filter.

Water Parameters

One good thing with the Goldfish species is that it tolerates changes in water conditions much better than more sensitive tropical fish, for example. They can even survive in temperatures a few degrees over freezing, which is why they make such great pond fish. However, you should invest in a water heater if you plan on keeping your Shubunkins in an outdoor pond during the winter.

Here are the ideal water parameters for Shubunkins:

Water temperature: 65. 72 degrees Fahrenheit
Hardness: 5. 19 dH
pH levels: 6.0. 8.0

Aquarium Maintenance